Kiralina's great aunt's apartment is an unrenovated gem, a taste of what it was like to live in Athens before the developers came along. The furniture is from another age and built by hand and with care to last until the next -- and the view is to die for. The apartment is on a pedestrian-dominated street in the heart of Plaka, the "old" city, where the Acropolis and the ancient marketplace are a short walk away and restaurants abound.