Our host, Jul, was indeed as friendly as he says, though we never met him during our whirlwind 2 days in Athens. The apartment is a beautifully designed little white gem with clever use of space, white and pale grey interiors, with small splashes of colour and shelves laden with fascinating books and artefacts. It was a well equipped, stylish haven from the hustle and bustle of the city. We made the most of the large roof terrace and its stunning view of the Acropolis.
The area, Exarchia, was slight edgy with political and arty graffiti and slogans everywhere. The riot police were much in evidence at night, which was a little unnerving, and we got rushed for 20 euros in an almost magical sleight of hand by an unscrupulous taxi driver. However, we didn't see any trouble at all and never felt unsafe. Not to everyone's taste, maybe, but if you want to be off the tourist trail this is a good place to be. Thank you, Jul, for staying in touch and the clear information about keys, cleaner etc. Exceptional!
Our recommendation for a sundowner - cocktails in china tea cups on the roof terrace of A for Athens, Monistiraki Square. You feel like you could reach out and touch the Parthenon bathed in a glowing golden light!