I can't recommend Esther's place enough. It is a stunning penthouse with incredible views over the Luisenstadt Cemetery and Tempelhof Park. It is very spacious, tastefully decorated with modern furniture (Eames chair!) and contemporary art, and feels truly like an oasis in the middle of Kreuzberg. The street is calm, but the Two Trick Pony café downstairs is bustling at brunch time and absolutely worth a visit (we went twice). Esther was very helpful in explaining the various modern amenities and in sharing her fantastic apartment with guests.