Peace and quiet in a lively corner of “real Paris”—this apartment is a true find. Yes, this horseshoe-shape spot with a twisting staircase (the bannister is actually vertical at times) has the usual quirkiness found in Paris’s old buildings, but it adds to the charm of this knick-knack and plant-filled lodging. Leo lives downstairs, and is incredibly helpful—he recommended a terrific restaurant (Pouliche) for a dinner with friends, and generally made our stay pleasant and stress-free. Tons of room for two people, plus a big bed and two showers! We actually conquered the mystery of the washing machine too. And my husband found heaven in a slice of quiche from the bakery two blocks towards Rue La Fayette. Easy Metro and bike rental in this tourist-free corner of Paris. We will be back!