Franck’s place in Montmartre was a highlight of my Paris experience. Quirky and artistic and located just off the edge of the park at the bottom of the Sacre-Coeur stairway, it allowed me to feel like a local. Just 50 feet from the door are three great cafes and restaurants and a little food shop, and it was amazing to be able to roll out of bed and waltz right over to the great Botak café, with its café tables painted with the faces of artists and musicians. At night, there are lights on wires strung across the sidewalk, and it feels festive. What’s great about this spot is that the many tourists at Sacre Coeur above seem to be unaware of this little square below and to the left, so despite the fact that it is right off the garden, there was never a throng of tourists in the cafes next door to Franck’s place. I felt very lucky to have the key to that little artistic storefront with its secret bedroom and kitchen hidden down a hatch. I loved the little underground kitchen with its great bathtub and stone walls, the exposed 100-year-old pipe in the plaster, the antique lightswitches, and books everywhere. It made me feel that I had very special access to an artists’ apartment in the heart of Montmartre. Which I did.

Franck’s friend Mustafa, who cares for the place, was incredibly kind and helpful, going out of his way to offer help when I had to extend my stay due to unforeseen circumstances. Franck was also extremely friendly and helpful. I highly recommend Franck’s place, and I look forward to staying there again.