Xavier’s place was exactly what we wanted — a stylish, quiet, spacious flat in a vibrant Paris neighborhood. This is a living neighborhood, not particularly touristy, which is part of the charm. But you don’t have to look far — just a block away on Rue des Martyrs — to find the ghosts of Baudelaire, Edith Piaf and Thomas Jefferson. Or if that’s too ephemeral, the best bread and cheese you’ve ever tasted. As for Xavier, he was always available to answer questions, but never hovered. Formidable!