Roman's apartment let us into the Prague we wanted to see, just enough away from the crush of tourists and closer to the cafés, bars, bookshops and indie record stores of Nové Mĕsto. His apartment isn't a hotel room. It's quirky and atmospheric, with wonky plumbing and electrics, like much of old Prague. And it was perfect for the 2 of us who wanted to get under the skin of the City. Roman's books, art and overall feel, in a place that's so close to the River and to myriad public transport options, makes this an ideal place to spend time. If you want shiny and new, book a hotel.