I can't recommend Magali's place highly enough. In addition to her warmth and hospitality, the building itself is located steps from cafés, restaurants, and bookshops of all kinds—and right on a subway line. The interior was extremely well-kept, with multiple towels, fridge space, and a washing machine and dryer available for guests; the bathroom spotless and hot water immediate; and the bed was comfortable and with several pillows. I will surely return when opportunity strikes!