As with Paris, New York or San Francisco, they key to a fulfilling visit is a comfortable lodging, good service and location, location, location. Cotes de la Montagne has all three, situated above Petit Champlain, below the walls of Vieux Quebec, and close to the central Chateau Frontenac and the interesting old city with its intimate streets, good restaurants and the Plains of Abraham where the decisive battle of the Seven Years War was fought, the experience of old Quebec is at the doorstep.

The building displays ancient character but is fully restored and very modern and satisfyingly comfortable. Above all, the price is more than reasonable. chambers 2 has the added advantage of being located in the back of the building far from the potentially noisy crowds in the city in high season.

Registration takes place at the Hetel St. Paul where the proprietor is friendly, speaks fluent French and English and offers helpful information. Otherwise, hosting is not intrusive, almost invisible. An ample kitchen and sitting room, available for preparing meals, is available. Very much a home away from home in a city worth the visit more than once. Tip: do not confine your visit to the old city but explore the adjacent neighborhoods, the gorgeous market and the 10 minute ferry to Levi's and back gives a fantastic view.

Louise Penney fans will benefit from reading her great crime novel, Bury Your Dead, before a visit. It makes the history of Quebec City come alive.