It says something that my wife and I spent much of one day at Mary's house, enjoying the stimulating, homey atmosphere. Mary's and her son Alexander's backgrounds are diverse, and she is extraordinarily open and friendly. The breakfasts were pitch-perfect, from fresh breads and croissants to eggs and cereal.

Mary's house is quiet, finished with Asian art from her travels, and we enjoyed our time with her other guests, traveling from Geneva. We rarely left the breakfast table before lunchtime beckoned, though the choice was ours.

Mary's house is a short, easy drive to the Old City and other sites, and she gave excellent recommendations on what to see, restaurants, directions, and parking. She could not have been more welcoming if we were family, and that's what we feel we were by the time we left.