I stayed for 10 days with Isa and Paolo. They were warm and welcoming beyond what I could have imagined.

I came to Rio not knowing a soul, with a few simple goals: to work on my Portuguese, hear some live Brazilian music, and maybe even find a bossa nova guitar teacher.

Not only were Isa and Paolo patient with my Portuguese, they took me to some fantastic shows and concerts -- from Zé Paulo Becker and Nicolas Krassik in Lapa, to Yamandu Costa at the Teatro Municipal. There is so much music going on in Rio that it's a huge help to have someone with good taste as a guide, and Paolo is that person. And Isa even arranged for me to have bossa nova guitar lessons with a friend of hers. Joy!

Their apartment is compact, well-organized, and clean. The decor is minimalist and well-chosen. My bed and pillows were comfortable, the armoire held all my clothes. Isa and Paolo were very relaxed about sharing their living room with me, and even their office, where the wi-fi signal is strongest.

Breakfasts were tasty and satisfying: a combination of what I think of as traditional continental-style choices, along with Brazilian treats such as queijo minas, doce de leite, and different juices or smoothies each day.

Their apartment is up on the edge of the hill that is Santa Teresa, at the end of a one-way street, so it doesn't get any traffic noise. It's also accessible by a big outdoor stairway -- maybe ten flights' worth -- from the edge of Lapa, where the music and parties are. This was super convenient for going out to shows. It does also mean that there is sometimes loud music booming up the hill: a couple of nights I did wear earplugs to sleep.

Overall, my stay with Isa and Paolo was a wonderful experience and I feel lucky to have stayed with them.