Staying at Axel's is a generational thing. As a Boomer, I was the oldest person in what I'd characterize as a youth hostel. If a hotel room cleaned by a maid, air conditioning, and personal privacy is your thing, Axel's casa probably isn't your gig.

However, the young people there couldn't have been nicer. Six or seven of us strolled down the street to a terrific restaurant in the Santa Teresa neighborhood. I would never have gone there own my own. I also took the public bus downtown, truly an experience not to be missed.

But the highlight was Valentin and one of the guests taking me down the steep hill into the favela. I felt perfectly safe, but for travelers who are skittish about poor neighborhoods, this may not be your preference.

All in all, Axel's place is for hearty travelers who don't mind some inconveniences. If that's you, look forward to a great time.