This beautiful little retreat, perched on a forested hill overlooking a sun-drenched valley, is Otway gold. It's simple – water is limited, don't expect to run a million electric appliances – but a lot of care has gone into creating a homely, warm, personal experience. Don't fear the composting toilet, it's clean, easy to use and nicer than any camping ground toilet block I've seen. The lean-to bathroom bursts with greenery; if you're quiet and patient, on warm days you'll be visited by a friendly skink. There are gorgeous birds, koalas, friendly cows and views for miles. Settle in. Unplug. Spread out. Look up.