I stayed at Mariana's apartment for 81 days, working (writing) mostly from home during the day, learning Spanish in a nearby school, and exploring the city at weekends and at nights. For me, the apartment was ideally situated and appointed.

The neighbourhood is safe for late-evening walks. Among the numerous restaurants and cafes (one can dine out for weeks without eating in the same place twice), I chose a couple (Sheldon, Mama Racha, among others) to incorporate into my routine. A gym and a large grocery store are each a couple of blocks away from the apartment. A metro (Subte) station is also a short walk away. Hailing a taxi is not a problem any time of the day or night.

Because the apartment is so high up (the penultimate, 19th floor), one does not hear individual cars in the streets. The air also seems to be clearer higher up. One does wake up to the ambient hum of a city, which is important to me, as I like feeling alive and a part of a big city also when secluded in my apartment and writing. (The reader who would find a city hum a nuisance rather than an inspiration will probably not be the one to seek a prolonged stay in a big city anyway.)

The apartment faces Palermo Viejo (the city part with cafes, restaurants, shops---among them several charming bookshops---and two squares, filled at weekends). Sunsets and thunderstorms are beautiful. Each sunset is different, depending on the weather.

The apartment is furnished in fine taste. The lighting installations are subtle. The ceiling lights in both rooms have graduated switches, which one can adjust to match one's mood exactly. The floor lamps in the living room add character and drama to the room at night. These lights complement the lights of the city as seen from the panoramic window.

The plants on the balcony require regular watering. But they deserve; they withstand the winds and the storms with much grace.

Mariana has been most helpful in giving a quick orientation at the time of my arrival, was quite gracious about the fact that it took me so long to get from the airport (by mistake, I had signed up for a bus, not a taxi), checked on me (by an SMS) later that night, and asked periodically if there was anything that I needed. She also recommended taxi companies (for longer trips, such as the airport) and a tour company.

The housekeeper, whom Mariana helped arrange, was a charming lady. She helped me practice my Spanish, would write down the sentences that I had trouble understanding, would recommend local attractions, and even suggested places to order take-out food.

I have much enjoyed my stay at Mariana's apartment. As a result, I have been productive, and have learnt much. If I were to stay in the city again, I would be most lucky to end up in an apartment such as this with a host such as Mariana.