Background: When wind waves approach to coast area from deep water, the waves change their heights and lengths. The wave height becomes higher and the wavelength becomes shorter as the wave velocity is slowed when ocean waves approach to the shore. If the water depth is sufficiently shallow, the wave crest become steeper and the trough gets broader and shallower; finally, the ocean waves break at the shore. The motions of wave breaking are different with along to the steepness of shores and waves, and can be categorized by below three types.[11][12]

Situation: The tourist village had two beaches: Coral beach with nice sand and deeper water was preferred by families, and Surfer beach which  had shallow water was a surfer's heaven.

Question: Which beach had more surfers visiting it?
Answer: Surfer beach

Situation: The tourist village had two beaches: Coral beach with nice sand and deeper water was preferred by families, and Surfer beach which  had shallow water was a surfer's heaven.

Question: Which beach had fewer surfers visiting it?
Answer: Coral beach

Situation: The tourist village had two beaches: Coral beach with nice sand and deeper water was preferred by families, and Surfer beach which  had shallow water was a surfer's heaven.

Question: Which beach had waves with a steeper wave crest?
Answer: Surfer beach

Situation: The tourist village had two beaches: Coral beach with nice sand and deeper water was preferred by families, and Surfer beach which  had shallow water was a surfer's heaven.

Question: Which beach had waves with a less steep wave crest?
Answer: Coral

Situation: The tourist village had two beaches: Coral beach with nice sand and deeper water was preferred by families, and Surfer beach which  had shallow water was a surfer's heaven.

Question: Which beach had waves with a broad and shallow trough?
Answer: Surfer beach

Situation: The tourist village had two beaches: Coral beach with nice sand and deeper water was preferred by families, and Surfer beach which  had shallow water was a surfer's heaven.

Question: Which beach had waves with a narrow and deep trough?
Answer: Coral beach

Situation: The tourist village had two beaches: Coral beach with nice sand and deeper water was preferred by families, and Surfer beach which  had shallow water was a surfer's heaven.

Question: Which beach was more suitable for surfing and windsurfing?
Answer: Surfer beach

Situation: The tourist village had two beaches: Coral beach with nice sand and deeper water was preferred by families, and Surfer beach which  had shallow water was a surfer's heaven.

Question: Which beach was less suitable for surfing and windsurfing?
Answer: Coral

Situation: The tourist village had two beaches: Coral beach with nice sand and deeper water was preferred by families, and Surfer beach which  had shallow water was a surfer's heaven.

Question: Which beach has waves with a shorter wavelength?
Answer: Surfer beach

Situation: The tourist village had two beaches: Coral beach with nice sand and deeper water was preferred by families, and Surfer beach which  had shallow water was a surfer's heaven.

Question: Which beach has waves with a longer wavelength?
Answer: Coral beach