Background: When waves travel into areas of shallow water, they begin to be affected by the ocean bottom. The free orbital motion of the water is disrupted, and water particles in orbital motion no longer return to their original position. As the water becomes shallower, the swell becomes higher and steeper, ultimately assuming the familiar sharp-crested wave shape. After the wave breaks, it becomes a wave of translation and erosion of the ocean bottom intensifies.

Situation: Two neighboring gulfs had different geographical features. South gulf has shallow water and is wider, while North gulf is quite deep. Both gulfs are exposed to intense wave activity throughout the year.

Question: Which gulf experiences more free orbital motion disruption when waves hit?
Answer: South

Situation: Two neighboring gulfs had different geographical features. South gulf has shallow water and is wider, while North gulf is quite deep. Both gulfs are exposed to intense wave activity throughout the year.

Question: Which gulf experiences less free orbital motion disruption when waves hit?
Answer: North

Situation: Two neighboring gulfs had different geographical features. South gulf has shallow water and is wider, while North gulf is quite deep. Both gulfs are exposed to intense wave activity throughout the year.

Question: Which gulf experiences larger waves?
Answer: South

Situation: Two neighboring gulfs had different geographical features. South gulf has shallow water and is wider, while North gulf is quite deep. Both gulfs are exposed to intense wave activity throughout the year.

Question: Which gulf experiences smaller waves?
Answer: North

Situation: Two neighboring gulfs had different geographical features. South gulf has shallow water and is wider, while North gulf is quite deep. Both gulfs are exposed to intense wave activity throughout the year.

Question: Which gulf experiences higher swells?
Answer: South

Situation: Two neighboring gulfs had different geographical features. South gulf has shallow water and is wider, while North gulf is quite deep. Both gulfs are exposed to intense wave activity throughout the year.

Question: Which gulf experiences lower swells?
Answer: North

Situation: Two neighboring gulfs had different geographical features. South gulf has shallow water and is wider, while North gulf is quite deep. Both gulfs are exposed to intense wave activity throughout the year.

Question: Which gulf experiences more erosion on the ocean bottom?
Answer: South

Situation: Two neighboring gulfs had different geographical features. South gulf has shallow water and is wider, while North gulf is quite deep. Both gulfs are exposed to intense wave activity throughout the year.

Question: Which gulf experiences less erosion on the ocean bottom?
Answer: North

Situation: Two neighboring gulfs had different geographical features. South gulf has shallow water and is wider, while North gulf is quite deep. Both gulfs are exposed to intense wave activity throughout the year.

Question: Which gulf's water is more disrupted?
Answer: South

Situation: Two neighboring gulfs had different geographical features. South gulf has shallow water and is wider, while North gulf is quite deep. Both gulfs are exposed to intense wave activity throughout the year.

Question: Which gulf's water is less disrupted?
Answer: North

Situation: Most surfers used Wide beach because of the areas of shallow water, but some surfers were happy with Sandy beach, although the water was much deeper at the shore there.

Question: Which beach had better and larger waves?
Answer: Wide beach

Situation: Most surfers used Wide beach because of the areas of shallow water, but some surfers were happy with Sandy beach, although the water was much deeper at the shore there.

Question: Which beach had smaller waves?
Answer: Sandy

Situation: Most surfers used Wide beach because of the areas of shallow water, but some surfers were happy with Sandy beach, although the water was much deeper at the shore there.

Question: Which beach has more waves of translation?
Answer: Wide

Situation: Most surfers used Wide beach because of the areas of shallow water, but some surfers were happy with Sandy beach, although the water was much deeper at the shore there.

Question: Which beach has fewer waves of translation?
Answer: Sandy

Situation: Most surfers used Wide beach because of the areas of shallow water, but some surfers were happy with Sandy beach, although the water was much deeper at the shore there.

Question: Which beach experiences a more intense erosion of the ocean bottom?
Answer: Wide

Situation: Most surfers used Wide beach because of the areas of shallow water, but some surfers were happy with Sandy beach, although the water was much deeper at the shore there.

Question: Which beach experiences a less intense erosion of the ocean bottom?
Answer: Sandy

Situation: Most surfers used Wide beach because of the areas of shallow water, but some surfers were happy with Sandy beach, although the water was much deeper at the shore there.

Question: Which beach experiences a higher and steeper swell?
Answer: Wide

Situation: Most surfers used Wide beach because of the areas of shallow water, but some surfers were happy with Sandy beach, although the water was much deeper at the shore there.

Question: Which beach experiences a lower and less steep swell?
Answer: Sandy

Situation: Most surfers used Wide beach because of the areas of shallow water, but some surfers were happy with Sandy beach, although the water was much deeper at the shore there.

Question: Which beach experiences more disruption of the free orbital motion of the water?
Answer: Wide

Situation: Most surfers used Wide beach because of the areas of shallow water, but some surfers were happy with Sandy beach, although the water was much deeper at the shore there.

Question: Which beach experiences less disruption of the free orbital motion of the water?
Answer: Sandy