# Patent

## Title
Thickened hair colourant and bleaching compositions

## Abstract

The present invention relates to hair colouring and hair bleaching compositions comprising a source of carbonate ions, at least one oxidizing agent and a specified gel network thickener system wherein said composition is free of a source of radical scavengers. The compositions surprisingly provide improved hair colourant and bleaching compositions which deliver improved lift, lightening and colour delivery whilst minimizing damage which are easy to manufacture and have long shelf life stability.

## Background
FIELD OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to hair colour and hair bleaching compositions.
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
The permanent alteration of the colour of keratinous fibres, in particular human hair, by the application of hair dyes is well known. In order to provide the consumer with the hair colour and the intensity of colour desired, a very complex chemical process is utilized. Permanent hair dyeing formulations typically comprise oxidative hair dye precursors, which can diffuse into the hair through the cuticle and into the cortex where they can then react with each other and suitable oxidising agents to form the end dye molecules. Due to the larger size of these resultant molecules they are unable to readily diffuse out of the hair during subsequent washing with water and/or detergents; hence delivering a consumer-desired permanency of colour. This reaction typically takes place in an aggressive environment at approximately pH 10 in the presence of an alkalizing agent and in the presence of an oxidizing agent. Moreover, the consumer repeats this process regularly in order to maintain the desired hair colour and shade and the intensity of colour and to ensure continual, even coverage of the hair including coverage of new hair growth.
The manufacturer of such products is also required to work within a large number of constraints. Since these products are being placed in direct contact with the consumers' skin, the potential exists for accidental contact with the eye or for ingestion (for example), which can occur during the dyeing process. Therefore, the formulation must meet rigorous safety requirements and not induce any allergic reactions. In addition to meeting these requirements, the products must also be optically and olfactory pleasing to the consumer. In particular, the products also need to meet certain physical parameters in order to ensure that the product can be easily applied to the hair by the consumer to provide the desired effect, without unintentional staining of the consumers clothes, skin particularly along the hair line or other objects.
The manufacturer is also required to provide the hair colouring consumer a large range of different resulting colours. Some consumers may just wish to enhance the natural colour of the hair, whilst others may wish to cover grey or completely alter the hair colour to a different natural appearing hair colour or a ‘synthetic’ appearing hair colour. Consequently, the manufacturer may provide over twenty different formulations, of varying colours and shades, to address the range of consumer specific needs. These formulations have to be individually formulated and are typically complex formulae containing a mixture of different dye compounds. As a result the manufacture of such product ranges can be costly and complex.
However, despite the fact that commercial hair dyeing products have been available for many years, the products still exhibit a number of consumer-related deficiencies.
Typically permanent hair dye products will contain an alkali, typically a source of ammonia. This serves the purpose of swelling the hair allowing the entry of the dye precursor molecules into the hair and also improves the lightening effect of the oxidising agent, which is typically hydrogen peroxide. However, ammonia is also volatile and its associated odour is extremely unpleasant to the consumers of such products, particularly as these hair dye products are used in close proximity to the nasal region. Hence, it would be highly desirable to provide an oxidative hair colouring and/or bleaching composition, which delivers the consumer required lightening level and colour, but which has reduced or eliminated the detectable ammonia odour.
In fact another deficiency area in current hair colouring products is the provision of hair colouring products which deliver the required hair lightening effect. Delivering the required level of lightening is particularly important in order to provide the full range of colour shades demanded by the consumer, especially for blondee shades and grey coverage. Such products pose particular difficulties to the manufacturer, as they usually require the use of high levels of oxidising agent and ammonia in order to deliver the required lightening effect. However, in additional to the problems associated with the presence of high levels of ammonia in these products, as discussed herein above, the presence of these high levels of ammonia and/or oxidizing agent also affect the condition of the hair and may in some cases induce mild skin irritation on the scalp. In particular, the hydrophilicity of the hair surface is increased during the colouring process, which alters the sensory perception of the hair and its overall manageability during, immediately after colouring and during the subsequent wash and styling cycles until the next colourant application. Hence, it would also be highly desirable to provide an oxidative hair colouring and/or bleaching composition which delivers the required lightening and/or colour without unnecessary hair damage.
A number of attempts have been described in the literature to address at least some of the above identified improvement areas. For example the use of carbonate has been described in the following hair colouring art.
EP 435 012 describes hair-dyeing compositions, which require a short dyeing time, create little damage to hair, and no irritating odour after dyeing comprising a carbonate source, a non odour generating alkali hydrogen peroxide and a buffer solution. Similarly EP 1 106 166 describes hair dye compositions comprising ammonia, carbonate (other than ammonia salt), transition metal salt and chelating agent which do not give off an irritating odour, have low skin irritation and can change the hair colour into a lighter tone in a short time. WO01/28508 describes hair colouring formulations comprising oxidising agents and ammonia carbonate or carbamate which deliver improved bleaching and colouring with reduced odour and hair damage without the need for buffering agents, pH modifiers or hair swelling agents. JP01206825 describes a low pungent hair colouring composition comprising ammonia, ammonium salt and carbonate. US2004/0083557 describes hair colouring compositions comprising an oxidative hair dye precursor, a metal cyanate, an alkalizing agent and an oxidizing agent and preferably a metal bicarbonate salt in order to provide good colour lift and low odour.
WO04/014328 describes one step hair colouring compositions comprising peroxide oxidizing agents, specific oxidizing agents and at least one water soluble carbonate releasing salts which more effectively deliver colour wherein the composition is applied for a period of from 2 to 60 minutes. US2004/0098814 describes a method of permanently colouring hair whereby the hair is subjected to a number of consecutive short treatments whereby the treatment comprises a dye intermediate in a shampoo or conditioner base, a water soluble carbonate releasing salt and a water soluble ammonium salt. US2004/0098816 also describes a method for the gradual permanent colouring of hair which includes subjecting the hair to a number of treatments having a set time interval between them, wherein the treatment compositions comprise ammonium carbonate in combination with a chelant.
However it has now been found that the use of hydrogen peroxide and carbonate hair colourant systems, results in difficulties in manufacturing. This problem is particularly manifest for compositions which have high levels of peroxide and carbonate which are desirable to provide high levels of lift. Moreover in order to provide a product which the consumer can easily apply to the hair without dripping onto the skin, clothes or bathroom surfaces, hair colourant products are designed such that the composition has a certain required viscosity. This is either achieved by providing the dye composition and the oxidizing composition as so called thin-thin type liquid formulations which are thickened upon mixing or where at least one of the components, either the dye composition or the oxidizing composition, preferably the dye composition, is provided as a thickened formulation which thickens the total composition upon mixing.
Carbonate systems in the art herein above describe numerous materials suitable for thickening. However these materials have been found not to sufficiently thicken compositions comprising high levels of carbonate resulting in product instability or unsatisfactory viscosity. Hence it would be desirable to provide a hair colorant composition which incorporates high levels of carbonate without compromising the product stability or ease of manufacture.
Another particularly critical performance area for the consumer is the provision of the desired resultant colour and also the effective coverage of grey hair. Indeed, whilst the amount of grey hair to be coloured varies considerably from consumer to consumer, the resultant overall appearance of the coloured hair demanded by the consumer should be nearly identical for the naturally pigmented hair and the grey hair on head, with the added requirement that the initial uniform and even colour coverage is maintained during the post dyeing washing and drying cycle.
Hence, it would be further desirable to provide the consumer with a hair colourant, providing improved lift and lightening and improved colour delivery, uptake and durability and which is easy to manufacture, delivering the required viscosity and is shelf life stable.
It has now been surprisingly found that oxidative hair colouring compositions comprising an oxidizing agent, a source of carbonate ions, and a specific gel network thickening system as defined herein below, which are free of a source of radical scavengers, preferably utilised at a pH 9.5 and below, can be formulated as stable thickened systems. Moreover the compositions exhibit low odour and deliver a high level of lift and lightening equal to the currently utilised ammonia/peroxide systems, whilst reducing the concentration of peroxide and reducing the hair fibre damage. Moreover, the compositions of the present invention are compatible with current dyes and dye precursor systems and result in improved lift and lightening for blonde shades, excellent dye deposition and colour and improved grey coverage.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to a hair colouring and hair bleaching composition comprising i) at least about 0.25 mole/l of a source of carbonate ions, carbamate ions, hydrogencarbonate ions or peroxymonocarbonate ions, ii) at least one oxidizing agent and iii) a gel network thickening system defined hereinafter wherein said composition is free of a source of radical scavengers.
A further aspect of the present invention relates to a hair colouring or bleaching composition comprising i) at least about 0.25 mole/l of a source of carbonate, carbamate, hydrogencarbonate or peroxymonocarbonate ions and mixtures thereof, ii) at least one oxidizing agent and iii) at least one gel network thickener system comprising at least one surfactant or amphophile having an HLB of 6 or less and a melting point of at least 30° C. and further comprising at least one alkyl ether phosphate having from 1 to 5, preferably from 1 to 3 ethylene oxide units.
In another embodiment, the present invention relates to a hair colouring and bleaching kit comprising i) an individually packaged oxidizing component comprising at least one oxidizing agent and ii) an individually packaged second component comprising at least a source of carbonate ions, carbamate ions, hydrogencarbonate ions and a gel network thickening system defined herein, wherein upon mixing said composition comprises at least about 0.25 mole/l of a source of carbonate ions, carbamate ions, hydrogencarbonate ions, peroxymonocarbonate ions and mixtures thereof, and wherein said kit is free of a souce of radical radical scavengers.
The present invention also relates to a hair colouring and bleaching kit comprising i) an individually packaged oxidizing component comprising at least one oxidizing agent and a gel network thickening system as defined herein and ii) an individually packaged second component comprising a source of carbonate ions, carbamate ions, hydrogencarbonate ions, peroxymonocarbonate ions and mixtures thereof, wherein upon mixing said composition comprises at least 0.25 mole/l of said source of carbonate ions, carbamate ions, hydrogencarbonate ions, peroxymonocarbonate ions and mixtures thereof and wherein said kit is free of a source of radical scavengers.
The present invention further relates to a hair colouring or bleaching kit comprising i) an individually packaged oxidizing component comprising at least one oxidizing agent and at least one gel network thickener system comprising at least one surfactant or amphophile having an HLB of 6 or less and a melting point of at least about 30° C. and further comprising at least one alkyl ether phosphate having from 1 to 5, preferably 1 to 3 ethylene oxide units and ii) an individually packaged second component comprising at least one source of carbonate ions, carbamate ions, hydrogencarbonate ions, wherein said components upon mixing comprise at least about 0.25 mole/I of said source of carbonate, carbamate, hydrogencarbonate or peroxymonocarbonate ions and mixtures thereof.
The present invention also relates to a method of treating hair comprising the steps of applying a composition comprising at least about 0.25 mole/I of a source of carbonate ions, carbamate ions, hydrogencarbonate ions or peroxymonocarbonate ions, at least one oxidizing agent and a gel network thickening system, wherein said composition is free of a source of radical scavenger to the hair for from about 2 to 60 minutes and subsequently rinsing said composition from the hair.


DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
While the specification concludes with claims, which particularly point out and distinctly claim the invention, it is believed the present invention will be better understood from the following description.
As used herein the term “half” to be treated may be “living” i.e. on a living body or may be “non-living” i.e. in a wig, hairpiece or other aggregation of non-living keratinous fibers. Mammalian, preferably human hair is preferred. However wool, fur and other keratin containing fibers are suitable substrates for the compositions according to the present invention.
All percentages are by weight of the total composition unless specifically stated otherwise. When more than one composition are used during a treatment, the total weight to be considered is the total weight of all the compositions applied on the hair simultaneously (i.e. the weight found “on head”) unless otherwise specified. All ratios are weight ratios unless specifically stated otherwise. All molar concentrations are by volume of the total composition and presented as number of moles of component(s) in one litre of the composition, or “mole/l”. When more than one composition are used during a treatment, the total volume to be considered is the total volume of all the compositions applied on the hair simultaneously (i.e. the volume found “on head”) unless otherwise specified.
Carbonate Ion Source
According to the present invention the compositions comprise at least about 0.25 mole/l of a source of carbonate ions or carbamate ions or hydrogencarbonate ions or peroxymonocarbonate ions or any mixture thereof. This amount can be achieved for example by addition of at least about 2.40% (volume percent) of ammonium carbonate (molecular weight equals to 96.09 g/mol) to the composition of invention or, for example, by addition of about 1.0% (volume percent) of Ammonium Carbonate and at least about 1.46% (volume percent) of Potassium Hydrogen Carbonate (molecular weight equals 100.12 g/mor). The compositions of the present invention preferably comprises from about 0.4 mole/l to about 2.0 mole/l, more preferably from about 0.5 mole/l to about 1.5 mole/l of the source of said ions.
It should also be understood that when the composition of the invention is used as a hair colouring or bleaching kit comprising an individually packaged oxidizing component and an individually packaged second component such as a bleaching or colouring component, the concentration of the source of the said ions will be increased in the said bleaching or colouring component proportionally to the mixing ratio of components in order to achieve the concentration of at least about 0.25 mole/l upon mixing of the components to provide the composition applied to the hair.
Any source of these ions may be utilized. Suitable sources for use herein include sodium, potassium, lithium, calcium, magnesium, barium, ammonium salts of carbonate, carbamate and hydrogencarbonate ions and mixtures thereof such as sodium carbonate, sodium hydrogen carbonate, potassium carbonate, potassium hydrogen carbonate, lithium carbonate, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, barium carbonate, ammonium carbonate, ammonium hydrogen carbonate and mixtures thereof. Percarbonate salts may also be utilized to provide both the source of carbonate ions and oxidizing agent. Preferred sources of carbonate, carbamate and hydrogencarbonate ions are sodium hydrogen carbonate, potassium hydrogen carbonate, ammonium carbamate and mixtures thereof.
In a particularly preferred embodiment of the present invention, the ammonium ion source and the carbonate ion sources are provided by a single source such as ammonium carbonate, ammonium hydrogen carbonate, ammonium carbamate or mixtures thereof.
Oxidizing Agent
The compositions according to the present invention thus form peroxymonocarbonate ions. These ions are typically formed in in-situ from the reaction between a source of hydrogen peroxide and carbonate ion. Consequently, the compositions according to the present invention comprise or are used in combination with a composition that comprises at least one source of an oxidizing agent. Preferred oxidizing agents for use herein are water-soluble peroxygen oxidizing agents. “Water-soluble” as defined herein means that in standard condition at least 0.1 g, preferably 1 g, more preferably 10 g of said oxidizing agent can be dissolved in 1 liter of deionized water. The oxidizing agents are valuable for the initial solubilisation and decolorisation of the melanin (bleaching) and accelerate the oxidation of the oxidative dye precursors (oxidative dyeing) in the hair shaft.
Any oxidizing agent known in the art may be utilized in the present invention. Preferred water-soluble oxidizing agents are inorganic peroxygen materials capable of yielding hydrogen peroxide in an aqueous solution. Water-soluble peroxygen oxidizing agents are well known in the art and include hydrogen peroxide, inorganic alkali metal peroxides such as sodium periodate and sodium peroxide and organic peroxides such as urea peroxide, melamine peroxide, and inorganic perhydrate salt bleaching compounds, such as the alkali metal salts of perborates, percarbonates, perphosphates, persilicates, persulphates and the like. These inorganic perhydrate salts may be incorporated as monohydrates, tetrahydrates etc. Alkyl and aryl peroxides, and or peroxidases may also be used. Mixtures of two or more such oxidizing agents can be used if desired. The oxidizing agents may be provided in aqueous solution or as a powder which is dissolved prior to use. Preferred for use in the compositions according to the present invention are hydrogen peroxide, percarbonate (which may be used to provide a source of both oxidizing agent and carbonate ions), persulphates and combinations thereof.
According to the present invention the compositions comprise from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight, preferably from about 1% to about 7% by weight, and most preferably from about 2% to about 5% by weight of an oxidizing agent.
Gel Network Thickener
According to the present invention, the hair colouring and bleaching compositions comprise a gel network thickener system. The gel network thickener system of this invention is defined as a thickening system comprising at least one low HLB surfactant or amphophile having a high melting point, and at least one additional second surfactant as specified below.
Those skilled in the art will recognize that gel network thickener systems usually have a complex structure of networked lamellar bi-layers and/or vesicles and sometimes crystals. These systems usually have creamy appearance and feel and are thus particularly desirable.
Without being bound by theory it is believed that swelling and thickening in gel network thickener systems is typically achieved as a result of electrostatic repulsion of ionic surfactants or steric repulsion of ethylene oxide chains of non-ionic surfactants incorporated into bi-layers. However, both of these mechanisms are suppressed in the presence of high levels of carbonate salts. Surprisingly, it has now been found that by the required specific selection of the structure of the surfactant head groups in the gel network thickener system the swelling and therefore thickening efficiency can be achieved.
Without being bound by theory, it is believed that gel network thickener system surfactants described in this invention have appropriate geometrical arrangement in the gel network lamellar bi-layers, preventing bi-layers from de-swelling and thus resisting viscosity loss. Moreover, in certain examples addition of the carbonate salt may actually promote formation of a more extensive gel network system, leading to incremental salt-induced thickening.
The HLB (hydrophilic—lipophilic balance) of the surfactant(s) used according to the invention is the standard HLB according to Griffin defined in publication J. Soc. Cosm. Chem., Vol. 5, 1954, p. 249, the disclosure of which is incorporated herein by reference.
The melting point of the surfactant(s) used according to the invention can be measured by a standard melting point method as described in U.S. Pharmacopeia, USP-NF General Chapter <741> “Melting range or temperature”.
According to the present invention, the low HLB surfactant or amphophile has an HLB of 6 or less and melting point of at least about 30° C. Representative examples include the following compounds (in the examples below “solid” refers to material state at temperature below 30° C.): solid fatty alcohols, solid oxyethylenated fatty alcohols, solid glycol esters, solid oxyethylenated alkyl phenols, solid sorbitan esters, solid sugar esters, solid methyl glucoside esters, solid polyglycerine esters, solid alkyl glyceryl ethers, solid propylene glycol fatty acid esters, cholesterol and ceramides.
Preferably the low HLB surfactants are selected from linear or branched fatty alcohols comprising from about 14 to 30 carbon atoms, oxyethylenated fatty alcohols comprising from about 16 to 30 carbon atoms and at most about 2 units of ethylene oxide and glycerol mono esters of fatty acids comprising from about 16 to 30 carbon atoms. Most preferably the low HLB surfactants include cetyl, stearyl, cetostearyl or behenyl alcohols, steareth-2 and glycerol monostearate.
The second surfactant of the gel network thickener system may be anionic, non-ionic or cationic.
Anionic surfactants are selected from surfactants according to the formula RnXmYM, wherein R is a alkyl, alkenyl or alkylaryl group having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, X is a polar group comprising at least one carbon atom and at least one oxygen or nitrogen atom, Y is an anionic group selected from carboxylates, sulphates, sulphonates or phosphates, n and m are independently 1 or 2 and M is hydrogen or a salt forming cation and mixtures thereof.
Representative examples of anionic surfactants include salts (such as alkaline salts, for example, sodium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, amino alcohol salts and magnesium salts) of the following compounds: alkyl ether carboxylates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkyl glyceryl sulphonates, alkylamido ether sulphates, alkylarylpolyether sulphates, alkyl monoglyceride sulphates, alkyl ether sulphonates, alkylamide sulphonates; alkyl succinates, alkyl sulphosuccinates, alkyl ether sulphosuccinates, alkylamide sulphosuccinates; alkyl sulphosuccinamates; alkyl sulphoacetates; alkyl ether phosphates; acyl sarcosinates, N-acyl methylaminopropionate; acyl isethionates, N-acyltaurates; acyl lactylates; carboxyalkyl ether of alkyl polyglucosides; alkyl lecithin derivatives. The alkyl or acyl radical of all of these various compounds, for example, comprises from about 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and the aryl radical, for example, is chosen from phenyl and benzyl groups.
Preferably the anionic surfactants are selected from alkyl ether phosphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkyl glyceryl sulphonates, N-acyl sarcosinates, N-acyl taurates, acyl lactylates and carboxyalkyl ether of alkyl polyglucosides. Yet more preferable surfactants are selected from alkyl ether phosphates having in average 1 to 20, preferably 1-10 and most preferably 1-3 ethylene oxide units.
Nonionic surfactants suitable for use in the gel network thickener system include non-ionic surfactants having an HLB of 7 or more and comprising one or more polyethyleneoxide chains wherein each polyethyleneoxide chain contains on average at least about 50 ethylene oxide units.
Also suitable for use as nonionic surfactants are non-ionic surfactants having an HLB of 7 or more which are free of polyethyleneoxide chains. Representative examples of non-ionic surfactants free of polyethyleneoxide chains include polyglycerolated fatty acids, polyglycerolated fatty amides, polyglycerolated alkyl phenols, polyglycerolated α-diols, polyglycerolated alcohols, alkyl polyglucosides and sugar esters. Preferably, the non-ionic surfactants free of polyethyleneoxide chains are selected from alkyl polyglucosides, sugar esters, polyglyceryl fatty acid esters, alkyl polyglyceryl ethers and mixtures thereof.
Representative examples of non-ionic surfactants comprising one or more polyethyleneoxide chain wherein each polyethyleneoxide chain contains on average at least about 50 ethylene oxide units include the following compounds: polyoxyethylene alkyl ethers, polyethyleneglycol fatty acid esters, polyoxyethylene castor oil, polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil, polyoxyethylene fatty amides and their momoethanolamine and diethanolamine derivatives and polyethoxylated fatty amines, with a number of ethylene oxide groups of at least about 50 and mixtures thereof.
The preferable non-ionic surfactants comprising one or more polyethyleneoxide chain include polyoxyethylene alkyl ethers having at least about 50, preferably from about 100 to 200 ethylene oxide units, for example steareth-100 and steareth-150.
The cationic surfactants suitable for use in the gel network thickener system are selected from quaternary ammonium salts or amido-amines having at least one fatty chain containing at least about 20 carbon atoms and mixture thereof.
The quaternary ammonium salts have general formula N+ (R1R2R3R4) X−,:
wherein, R1 is selected from linear and branched radicals comprising about 20 to 30 carbon atoms, R2 is selected from linear and branched radicals comprising about 20 to 30 carbon atoms or the same group as radicals R3 to R4, the radicals R3 to R4, which may be identical or different, are selected from linear and branched aliphatic radicals comprising from about 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and aromatic radicals such as aryl and alkylaryl, the aliphatic radicals may comprise at least one hetero atom such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulphur and halogens, the aliphatic radicals are chosen, for example, from alkyl, alkoxy and alkylamide radicals, and wherein X— is an anion selected from halides such as chloride, bromide and iodide) (C2-C6)alkyl sulphates, such as methyl sulphate, phosphates, alkyl and alkylaryl sulphonates, and anions derived from organic acids, such as acetate and lactate. The cationic surfactant is preferably selected from, for example, a behentrimonium chloride, behenamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate, stearamidopropyltrimonium chloride, arachidtrimonium chloride and mixtures thereof.
The amido-amine have general formula R′1—CONH(CH2)nNR′2R′3:
wherein, R′1 is selected from linear and branched radicals comprising about 20 to 30 carbon atoms, the radicals R′2 and R′3, which may be identical or different, are selected from hydrogen, linear and branched aliphatic radicals comprising from about 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and aromatic radicals such as aryl and alkylaryl, the aliphatic radicals may comprise at least one hetero atom such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulphur and halogens, the aliphatic radicals are chosen, for example, from alkyl, alkoxy and alkylamide radicals, and wherein n is integer from 1 to 4. The amido-amine is preferably selected from, for example, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.
Particularly preferred gel network thickening systems according to the present invention include the combination of oxyethylenated fatty alcohols comprising from about 16 to 30 carbon atoms and no more than about 2 units of ethylene oxide and polyoxyethylene alkyl ethers having at least about 50, preferably from about 100 to 150 ethylene oxide units. Another particularly preferred gel network thickening systems according to the present invention include combination of fatty alcohols comprising from about 14 to 30 carbon atoms and alkyl ether phosphates.
One particularly preferred example of the gel network thickener system which provides incremental salt induced thickening as discussed herein above is a gel network thickener system comprising at least one low HLB surfactant or amphophile with an HLB of 6 or less and melting point of at least 30° C., which preferably comprises cetyl or stearyl alcohol or a mixture thereof, and at least one alkyl ether phosphate comprising about 14 to 18 carbon atoms and having on average about 1 to 5, preferably from about 1 to 3 ethylene oxide units.
More than one surfactant of the above specified types or any combination of the surfactants can be used. The compositions of the present invention may comprise a total amount of gel network forming surfactants from about 0.5% to about 30%, preferably from about 1% to about 15%, and more preferably from about 2% to about 10%. The weight ratio of the low HLB surfactants to the second specified surfactants is from about 100:1 to about 1:10, preferably from 20:1 to 1:2, and more preferably from 10:1 to 1:1.
Radical Scavenger
According to the present invention the compositions are typically free of a source of radical scavenger. The term free as used herein refers to compositions comprising less than 3%, preferably less than 2%, more preferably less than 1%, even more preferably less than 0.1%, even more preferably less than 0.01% and even more preferably less than 0.001% and most preferably substantially free of a source of radical scavenger.
As used herein the term radical scavenger refers to compounds according to the general formula: (I): R1—Y—C(H)(R3)—R4—(C(H)(R5)—Y—R6)n 
wherein Y is NR2, O, or S, preferably NR2, n is 0 to 2, and wherein R4 is monovalent or divalent and is selected from: (a) substituted or unsubstituted, straight or branched, alkyl, mono- or poly-unsaturated alkyl, heteroalkyl, aliphatic, heteroaliphatic, or heteroolefinic systems, (b) substituted or unsubstituted, mono- or poly-cyclic aliphatic, aryl, or heterocyclic systems, or (c) substituted or unsubstituted, mono-, poly-, or per-fluoro alkyl systems; the systems of (a), (b) and (c) comprising from 1 to 12 carbon atoms and 0 to 5 heteroatoms selected from O, S, N, P, and Si; and wherein R4 can be connected to R3 or R5 to create a 5, 6 or 7 membered ring; and wherein R1, R2, R3, R5, and R6 are monovalent and are selected independently from: (a), (b) and (c) described herein above, or H.
Preferably, R4 is selected from: (a) substituted or unsubstituted, straight or branched, alkyl, heteroalkyl, aliphatic, heteroaliphatic, or heteroolefinic systems, (b) substituted or unsubstituted, mono- or poly-cyclic aliphatic, aryl, or heterocyclic systems, or (c) substituted or unsubstituted, mono-, poly-, or per-fluoro alkyl systems; more preferably R4 is selected from (a) substituted or unsubstituted, straight or branched, alkyl, heteroalkyl, aliphatic, or heteroaliphatic systems, (b) substituted or unsubstituted, aryl, or heterocyclic systems, or (c) substituted or unsubstituted, mono-, poly-, or per-fluoro alkyl systems; more preferably substituted or unsubstituted, straight or branched, alkyl, or heteroalkyl systems.
Preferably, the R4 systems of (a), (b), and (c), described herein above, comprise from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6, more preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and from 0 to 3 heteroatoms; preferably from 0 to 2 heteroatoms; most preferably from 0 to 1 heteroatoms. Where the systems contain heteroatoms, preferably they contain 1 heteroatom. Preferred heteroatoms include O, S, and N; more preferred are O, and N; and most preferred is O.
Preferably, R1, R2, R3, R5, and R6 are selected independently from any of the systems defined for R4 above, and H.
In alternative embodiments, any of R1, R2, R3, R4, R5, and R6 groups are substituted. Preferably, the substituent(s) is selected from: (a) the group of C-linked monovalent substituents consisting of: (i) substituted or unsubstituted, straight or branched, alkyl, mono- or poly-unsaturated alkyl, heteroalkyl, aliphatic, heteroaliphatic, or heteroolefinic systems, (ii) substituted or unsubstituted, mono- or poly-cyclic aliphatic, aryl, or heterocyclic systems, or (iii) substituted or unsubstituted, mono-, poly-, or per-fluoro alkyl systems; said systems of (i), (ii) and (iii) comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms and 0 to 5 heteroatoms selected from O, S, N, P, and Si; (b) the group of S-linked monovalent substituents consisting of SA1, SCN, SO2A1, SO3A1, SSA1, SOA1, SO2NA1A2, SNA1A2, and SONA1A2; (c) the group of O-linked monovalent substituents consisting of OA1, OCN and ONA1A2; (d) the group of N-linked monovalent substituents consisting of NA1A2, (NA1A2A3)+, NC, NA1OA2, NA1SA2, NCO, NCS, NO2, N═NA1, N═NOA1, NA1CN, NA1NA2A3; (e) the group of monovalent substituents consisting of COOA1, CON3, CONA12, CONA1COA2, C(═NA1)NA1A2, CHO, CHS, CN, NC, and X; and (f) the group consisting fluoroalkyl monovalent substituents consisting of mono-, poly-, or per-fluoro alkyl systems comprising from 1 to 12 carbon atoms and 0 to 4 heteroatoms.
For the groups (b) to (e), described above, A1, A2, and A3 are monovalent and are independently selected from: (1) H, (2) substituted or unsubstituted, straight or branched, alkyl, mono- or poly-unsaturated alkyl, heteroalkyl, aliphatic, heteroaliphatic, or heteroolefinic systems, (3) substituted or unsubstituted, mono- or poly-cyclic aliphatic, aryl, or heterocyclic systems, or (4) substituted or unsubstituted, mono-, poly-, or per-fluoro alkyl systems; said systems of (2), (3) and (4) comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms and 0 to 5 heteroatoms selected from O, S, N, P, and Si; and wherein X is a halogen selected from the group consisting of F, Cl, Br, and I.
Preferred substituents for use herein include those having a Hammett Sigma Para (σp) Value from −0.65 to +0.75, preferably from −0.4 to +0.5. Hammett Sigma Values are described in Advanced Organic Chemistry—Reactions, Mechanisms and Structure (Jerry March, 5th ed. (2001) at pages 368-375). Without being limited by theory, it is believed that substituents having sigma para values in the chosen ranges, when substituted onto R1 and/or R2, may improve the compounds toxicological profile without unduly adding an unfavourable increase in molecular weight that may interfere with the molecules ability to penetrate the hair shaft. Some preferred substituents and their Hammett Sigma Para values are shown below, in Table A. Additional substituents and their values are shown in March, at page 370.














TABLE A





Substituent
NH2
OH
H
COO—
Cl
COOH
CF3







□p
−0.57
−0.38
0
0.11
0.24
0.44
0.53









Preferably the above defined radical scavengers have a pKa of more than 7 to prevent the protonation of the nitrogen.
Preferably the present invention further does not comprise radical scavengers according to the general formula (II):




wherein R1, R2, R3, R4, and R5 are each independently selected from H, COO−M+, Cl, Br, SO3−M+, NO2, OCH3, OH or a C1 to C10 primary or secondary alkyl and M is either H or alkali metal. Preferably, the above-described radical scavengers have a pKa of more than 8.5 to ensure protonation of the hydroxy goup.

Preferably the present invention further also does not comprise radical scavengers according to those selected from group (III) benzylamine, imidazole, di-tert-butylhydroxytoluene, hydroquinone, guanine, pyrazine, piperidine, morpholine, methylmorpholine, 2methyoxyethylamine, and mixtures thereof.
Even more preferably the present invention does not comprise radical scavenger defined as a species that can react with a carbonate radical to convert the carbonate radical by a series of fast reactions to a less reactive species, i.e. a carbonate radical scavenger.
Whilst not being bound by theory, it is believed that the ability of the radical scavenger to convert the carbonate radical (as described hereinabove) is dependant upon the energy of the charge transfer reaction as shown below: (The calculation of the energy of the charge transfer reaction is detailed hereinafter.)

Scavenger+CO3*−→Scavenger*++CO32−

wherein the energy of the reaction is defined by:—

ΔHr=ΔHf(products)−ΔHf(reactants)=ΔHf(Scavenger*+)+ΔHf(CO32−)−ΔHf(Scavenger)−ΔHf(CO3*−)

According to the present invention the compositon do not comprise a radical scavenger having an energy of reaction of from about 0 kcal/mol to about 14 kcal/mol, preferably from about 1.5 kcal/mol to about 9 kcal/mol.

Additional Components

The compositions of the present invention may further comprise additional ingredients which include, but are not limited to, hair dyeing agents such as oxidative dye precursors, non-oxidative pre-formed dyes, additional thickeners and/or rheology modifiers, solvents, enzymes, additional surfactants, conditioning agents, carriers, antioxidants, stabilizers, chelants, perming actives, perfume, reducing agents (thiolactic acid), hair swelling agents and/or polymers. Some of these additional components are detailed hereafter.
Source of Alkalizing Agent
According to the present invention the composition may optionally comprise at least one source of alkalizing agent, preferably a source of ammonium ions and or ammonia. Particularly, preferred alkalizing agents are those which provide a source of ammonium ions. Any source of ammonium ions is suitable for use herein. Preferred sources include ammonium chloride, ammonium sulphate, ammonium nitrate, ammonium phosphate, ammonium acetate, ammonium carbonate, ammonium hydrogen carbonate, ammonium carbamate, ammonium hydroxide, percarbonate salts, ammonia and mixtures thereof. Particularly preferred are ammonium carbonate, ammonium carbamate, ammonia and mixtures thereof. The compositions of the present invention may comprise from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight, preferably from about 0.5% to about 5%, most preferably from about 1% to about 3% of an alkalizing agent, preferably ammonium ions. Preferably, if present, the ammonium ions and carbonate ions are present in the composition at a weight ratio of from 3:1 to 1:10, preferably 2:1 to 1:5.
Preferably, the compositions of the present invention have a pH of from about 9.5 to about 7.5, more preferably from about 9.5 to about 8.4 and most preferably from about 9.4 to about 8.5 and even more preferably about pH 9.0.
The pH of the compositions can be determined by using either a Mettler Toledo MP220 or a MP225 pH equipment, fitted with a standard laboratory pH electrode. The equipment is calibrated before each use using standard calibration buffers and using standard calibration procedure.
Hair Dyes
The hair compositions of the present invention are preferably hair colouring compositions which comprise oxidative dyeing compositions. Such compositions comprise oxidative hair dye precursors (also known as primary intermediates) that will deliver a variety of hair colors to the hair. These small molecules are activated by the oxidizing agent and react with further molecules to form a larger colored complex in the hair shaft.
The precursors can be used alone or in combination with other precursors, and one or more can be used in combination with one or more couplers. Couplers (also known as color modifiers or secondary intermediates) are generally colorless molecules that can form colors in the presence of activated precursors, and are used with other precursors or couplers to generate specific color effects or to stabilize the color. The choice of precursors and couplers will be determined by the color, shade and intensity of coloration that is desired. The precursors and couplers can be used herein, singly or in combination, to provide dyes having a variety of shades ranging from ash blondee to black.
These compounds are well known in the art, and include aromatic diamines, aminophenols, aromaticdiols and their derivatives (a representative but not exhaustive list of oxidation dye precursor can be found in Sagarin, “Cosmetic Science and Technology”, “Interscience, Special Edn. Vol. 2 pages 308 to 310). It is to be understood that the precursors detailed below are only by way of example and are not intended to limit the compositions and processes herein. These are: 1,7-Dihydroxynaphthalene (1,7-NAPHTHALENEDIOL), 1,3-Diaminobenzene (m-PHENYLENEDIAMINE), 1-Methyl-2,5-diaminobenzene (TOLUENE-2,5-DIAMINE), 1,4-Diaminobenzene (p-PHENYLENEDIAMINE), 1,3-Dihydroxybenzene (RESORCINOL), 1,3-Dihydroxy-4-chlorobenzene, (4-CHLORORESORCINOL), 1-Hydroxy-2-aminobenzene, (o-AMINOPHENOL), 1-Hydroxy-3-aminobenzene (m-AMINOPHENOL), 1-Hydroxy-4-amino-benzene (p-AMINOPHENOL), 1-Hydroxynaphthalene (1-NAPHTHOL), 1,5-Dihydroxynaphthalene (1,5-NAPHTHALENEDIOL), 2,7-dihydroxynaphthalene (2,7-NAPHTHELENEDIOL) 1-Hydroxy-2,4-diaminobenzene (4-DIAMINOPHENOL), 1,4-Dihydroxybenzene (HYDROQUINONE), 1-Hydroxy-4-methylaminobenzene (p-METHYLAMINOPHENOL), 6-Hydroxybenzo-morpholine (HYDROXYBENZOMORPHOLINE), 1-Methyl-2-hydroxy-4-aminobenzene (4-AMINO-2-HYDROXY-TOLUENE), 3,4-Diaminobenzoic acid (3,4-DIAMINOBENZOIC ACID), 1-Methyl-2-hydroxy-4-(2′-hydroxyethyl)aminobenzene (2-METHYL-5-HYDROXYETHYLAMINO-PHENOL), 1,2,4-Trihydroxybenzene (1,2,4-TRIHYDROXYBENZENE), 1-Phenol-3-methylpyrazol-5-on (PHENYLMETHYLPYRAZOLONE), 1-(2′-Hydroxyethyloxy)-2,4-diaminobenzene (2,4-DIAMINOPHENOXY-ETHANOL HCL), 1-Hydroxy-3-amino-2,4-dichlorobenzene (3-AMINO-2,4-DICHLORO-PHENOL), 1,3-Dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene (2-METHYLRESORCINOL), 1-Amino-4-bis-(2′-hydroxyethyl)aminobenzene (N,N-BIS(2-HYDROXY-ETHYL)-p-PHENYLENE-DIAMINE), 2,4,5,6-Tetraminopyrimidine (HC Red 16), 1-Hydroxy-3-methyl-4-aminobenzene (4-AMINO-m-CRESOL), 1-Hydroxy-2-amino-5-methylbenzene (6-AMINO-m-CRESOL), 1,3-Bis-(2,4-Diaminophenoxy)propane (1,3-BIS-(2,4-DIAMINO-PHENOXY)-PROPANE), 1-(2′-Hydroxyethyl)-2,5-diaminobenzene (HYDROXYETHYL-p-PHENYLENE DIAMINE SULPHATE), 1-Methoxy-2-amino-4-(2′-hydroxyethylamino)benzene, (2-AMINO-4-HYDROXYETHYLAMINOANISOLE) 1-Hydroxy-2-methyl-5-amino-6-chlorobenzene (5-AMINO-6-CHLORO-o-CRESOL), 1-Hydroxy-2-amino-6-methylbenzene (6-AMINO-o-CRESOL), 1-(2′-Hydroxyethyl)-amino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene (HYDROXYETHYL-3,4-METHYLENEDIOXY-ANILINE HCl), 2,6-Dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine (2,6-DIHYDROXY-3,4-DIMETHYLPYRIDINE), 3,5-Diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine (2,6-DIMETHOXY-3,5-PYRIDINEDIAMINE), 5,6-Dihydroxyindole (,DIHYDROXY-INDOLE), 4-Amino-2-aminomethylphenol (2-AMINOETHYL-p-AMINO-PHENOL HCl), 2,4-Diamino-5-methylphenetol (2,4-DIAMINO-5-METHYL-PHENETOLE HCl), 2,4-Diamino-5-(2′-hydroxyethyloxy)toluene (2,4-DIAMINO-5-METHYLPHENOXYETHANOL HCl), 5-Amino-4-chloro-2-methylphenol (5-AMINO-4-CHLORO-o-CRESOL), 4-Amino-1-hydroxy-2-(2′-hydroxyethylaminomethyl)benzene HYDROXYETHYLAMINOMETHYL-p-AMINO PHENOL HCl), 4-Amino-1-hydroxy-2-methoxymethylbenzene (2-METHOXYMETHYL-p-AMINOPHENOL HCl), 1,3-Bis(N(2-Hydroxyethyl)N(4-amino-phenyl)amino)-2-propanol (HYDROXYPROPYL-BIS-(N-HYDROXY-ETHYL-p-PHENYLENEDIAMINE)HCL), 6-Hydorxyindole (6-HYDROXY-INDOLE), 2,3-Indolinedione (ISATIN), 3-Amino-2-methylamino-6-methoxypyridine (HC BLUE NO. 7), 1-Phenyl-3-methyl-5-pyrazolone-2,4-dihydro-5,2-phenyl-3H-pyrazole-3-one, 2-Amino-3-hydroxypyridine (2-AMINO-3-HYDROXYPYRIDINE), 5-Amino-salicylic acid, 1-Methyl-2,6-bis(2-hydroxy-ethylamino)benzene (2,6-HYDROXYETHYLAMINO-TOLUENE), 4-Hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine (2,5,6-TRIAMINO-4-PYRIMIDINOL SULPHATE), 2,2′-[1,2-Ethanediyl-bis-(oxy-2,1-ethanediyloxy)]-bis-benzene-1,4-diamine (PEG-3,2′,2′-DI-p-PHENYLENEDIAMINE), 5,6-Dihydroxyindoline (DIHYDROXYINDOLINE), N,N-Dimethyl-3-ureidoaniline (m-DIMETHYL-AMINO-PHENYLUREA), 2,4-Diamino-5-fluortoluenesulfatehydrate (4-FLUORO-6-METHYL-m-PHENYLENEDIAMINE SULPHATE) and 1-Acetoxy-2-methylnaphthalene (1-HYDROXYYETHYL-4,5-DIAMINOPYRAZOLE SULPHATE). These can be used in the molecular form or in the form of peroxide-compatible salts.
The hair colouring compositions of the present invention may also include non oxidative hair dyes. i.e. direct dyes which may be used alone or in combination with the above described oxidative dyes. Suitable direct dyes include azo or anthraquinone dyes and nitro derivatives of the benzene series and or melanin precursors and mixtures thereof. Such direct dyes are particularly useful to deliver shade modification or highlights. Particularly preferred are Basic Red 51, Basic Orange 31, Basic Yellow 87 and mixtures thereof.
The hair dye compositions of the present invention will generally comprise from about 0.001% to about 10% of dyes. For example compositions providing low intensity dyeing such as natural blonde to light brown hair shades generally comprise from about 0.001% to about 5%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 2%, more preferably from about 0.2% to about 1% by weight of dyeing composition of precursors and couplers. Darker shades such as browns and black typically comprise from 0.001% to about 10% by weight, preferably from about 0.05% to about 7% by weight, more preferably form about 1% to about 5% of precursors and couplers.
Surfactants
The compositions according to the present invention may further comprise at least about 0.01% of one or more additional surfactants to those utilised in the gel network thickener system. Surfactants suitable for use herein generally have a lipophilic chain length of from about 8 to about 30 carbon atoms and can be selected from anionic, nonionic, amphoteric and cationic surfactants and mixtures thereof.
Polymers
The composition of the present invention may optionally further comprise at least about 0.01% of polymer. The polymer can be chosen, for example, from associative polymers, crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymers, crosslinked copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and of (C1-C6)alkyl acrylate or polysaccharides. The polymer may also serve as conditioning agents, as described below. The polymer will generally be used at levels of from about 0.01% to about 20.0% by weight of the composition, preferably of from about 0.1% to about 5%.
Conditioning Agent
The compositions of the present invention may comprise or are used in combination with a composition comprising a conditioning agent. Conditioning agents suitable for use herein are selected from silicone materials, amino silicones, fatty alcohols, polymeric resins, polyol carboxylic acid esters, cationic polymers, cationic surfactants, insoluble oils and oil derived materials and mixtures thereof. Additional materials include mineral oils and other oils such as glycerin and sorbitol.
The conditioning agent will generally be used at levels of from about 0.05% to about 20% by weight of the composition, preferably of from about 0.1% to about 15%, more preferably of from about 0.2% to about 10%, even more preferably of from about 0.2% to about 2%.
Particularly useful conditioning materials are cationic polymers and silicones. Conditioners of cationic polymer type may be chosen from those already known by those skilled in the art as improving at least one cosmetic properties of keratin fibres treated with a cosmetic composition. Cationic polymers can be chosen from those comprising units of at least one amine group chosen from primary, secondary, tertiary and quaternary amine groups that may either form part of the main polymer chain, or be borne by a side substituent that is directly attached to the main polymer chain.
Silicones can be selected from polyalkylsilioxane oils, linear polydiemthylsiloxane oils containing trimethylsilyl or hydroxydimethylsiloxane endgroups, polymethylphenylsiloxane polydimethylphenylsiloxane or polydimethyldiphenylsiloxane oils, silicone resins, organofunctional siloxanes having in their general structure one or a number of organofunctional group(s), the same or different, attached directly to the siloxane chain. Said organofunctional group(s) are selected from: polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy groups, (per)fluorinated groups, thiol groups, substituted or unsubstituted amino groups, carboxylate groups, hydroxylated groups, alkoxylated groups, quaternium ammonium groups, amphoteric and betain groups. The silicone can either be used as a neat fluid or in the form of an pre-formed emulsion.
Chelants
According to the present invention the compositions may comprise chelants. Chelants are well known in the art and refer to a molecule or a mixture of different molecules each capable of forming a chelate with a metal ion. Chelants are well known in the art and a non-exhaustive list thereof can be found in A E Martell & R M Smith, Critical Stability Constants, Vol. 1, Plenum Press, New York & London (1974) and A E Martell & R D Hancock, Metal Complexes in Aqueous Solution, Plenum Press, New York & London (1996) both incorporated herein by reference.
Examples of chelants suitable for use herein include EDDS (ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid), carboxylic acids (in particular aminocarboxylic acids), phosphonic acids (in particular aminophosphonic acids) and polyphosphoric acids (in particular linear polyphosphoric acids), their salts and derivatives.
Chelants may be incorporated into the composition of the present invention as stabilizers and or preservatives. In addition it has also been found that chelants provide hair fibre damage benefits and thus they may be utilized in order to further improve the hair damage profile of the present invention. Levels of chelants in the present invention may be as low as about 0.1%, preferably at least about about 0.25%, more preferably about 0.5% for the most effective chelants such as diamine-N,N′-dipolyacid and monoamine monoamide-N,N′-dipolyacid chelants (for example EDDS). Less effective chelants will be more preferably used at levels of at least about 1%, even more preferably above about 2% by weight of the composition, depending of the efficiency of the chelant. Levels as high as about 10% can be used, but above this level significant formulation issues may arise.
Solvents
Suitable solvents for use in the compositions of the present invention include, but are not limited to, water, butoxydiglycol, propylene glycol, alcohol (denat.), ethoxydiglycol, isopropylalcohol, hexylene glycol, benzyl alcohol and dipropylene glycol. Finally, the compositions according to the present invention are thus typically provided as an aqueous composition. The compositions of the present invention typically comprise from at least about 10%, preferably from about 20%, more preferably from about 30% and most preferably from about 50% by weight of solvent.
Method of Use
It is understood that the examples of methods of use and embodiments described herein are for illustrative purposes only and that various modifications or changes in light thereof will be suggested to one skilled in the art without departing from the scope of the present invention.
Oxidative hair dye compositions are usually sold in kits comprising, in individually packaged components such as separate containers, a dye component (also called “dye cream” for emulsions or “dye liquid” for solutions) comprising the oxidative dye, precursors and alkalizing agent which is typically ammonia in a suitable carrier and; a hydrogen peroxide component (also called “hydrogen peroxide cream” for emulsions or “hydrogen peroxide liquid” for solutions) comprising the oxidizing agent (usually hydrogen peroxide). The consumer mixes the dye component and hydrogen peroxide component together immediately before use and applies it onto the hair.
Similarly, bleaching compositions are also usually sold as a kit comprising two or three individually packaged components typically in two or three separate containers. The first component comprises the ammonium ion source (e.g. ammonia), the second component comprises the oxidizing agent and the third (optional) component comprises a second oxidizing agent. The bleaching compositions are obtained by mixing the above-mentioned compositions immediately before use.
After working the mixture for a few minutes (to insure uniform application to all of the hair), the oxidative dye composition is allowed to remain on the hair for an amount sufficient for the dyeing to take place (usually from about 2 to 60 minutes, typically about 30 to 45 minutes). The consumer then rinses his/her hair thoroughly with water and allows it to dry. It is observed that the hair has changed from its original color to the desired color.
When present in the oxidative dye compositions and bleaching compositions, the optional conditioning agent can be provided in a third container. In the latter case, all three compositions can be mixed immediately before use and applied together, or the content of the third container can be applied (after an optional rinse step) as a post-treatment immediately after the oxidative dye composition or bleaching composition resulting from the mixture of the other containers.
For the oxidative hair dye compositions the gel network thickening system may be comprised within the dye component, or the hydrogen peroxide component or in both components.
The resultant hair colouring or bleaching compositions according to the present invention thus have a viscosity of from 1000 to 60000 cPs, preferably from 2000 to 30000 cPs and most preferably from 3000 to 25000 cPs. Moreover prior to mixing the hair dye component (component two) may have viscosity of less than 1000 cPs, such composition is ofter referred as “thin-thin” or “liquid” colorant. The viscosity of the resultant mixture of oxidative and dye components i) and ii) in other words the hair colouring or bleaching composition is from 1000 to 60000 cPs, preferably from 2000 to 30000, more preferably form 3000 to 25000 cPs. Viscosity is measured using Brookfield viscometers with cone and plate attachment. For viscosities in the range of 0-12000 cPs the Brookfield DV-11 viscometer with S42 plate is used. 2 ml sample of the composition is equilibrated at 26.7° C. for three minutes before the readings are taken at 1 rpm. For viscosities in the range of 12,000-50,000 cPs the Brookfield DV-1 viscometer with S52 plate is used. 0.5 ml sample of the composition is equilibrated for 1 minute at 26.7° C. before the readings are taken at 1 rpm.
The present invention also includes embodiments wherein the method of colouring or bleaching the hair comprises applying a composition comprising at least one oxidising agent, at least one source of carbonate, carbamate, or hydrogen carbonate ions and mixtures thereof, and a gel network thickening system as defined hereinabove, free of radical scavengers, the composition preferably having a pH of up to 9.5, for at least about 50% of the time period the composition is applied to the hair.
According to the present invention the methods of colouring or bleaching hair also comprise embodiments whereby the composition is applied to the hair and preferably the mixture is worked for a few minutes (to insure uniform application to all of the hair). The composition is then allowed to remain on the hair in order for the colour to develop for a time period of less than about 20 minutes, preferably less than about 15 minutes, more preferably from about 5 minutes to about 10 minutes, most preferably for about 10 minutes. The consumer then rinses his/her hair thoroughly with water and allows it to dry and or styles the hair as usual. Such method provides additional convenience to consumer by permitting faster colouring or bleaching process.
According to an alternative embodiment of the present invention, the method of colouring and or bleaching the hair is a sequential oxidative hair colouring or hair bleaching method comprising the steps of at least two sequential oxidative hair colour or hair bleaching treatments wherein the time period between each treatment is from 1 to 60 days, preferably from 1 to 40 days, more preferably from 1 to 28 days, even more preferably from 1 to 14 days and most preferably from 1 to 7 days. In such embodiments the time that the composition is retained on head may be less than about 20 minutes and is preferably less than about 10 minutes and most preferably from about 2 minutes to about 5 minutes. This method allows consumer to perform colouring or bleaching process in a way similar to conventional hair washing or conditioning process.
The kits described hereinabove are well known in the art and the composition in each container can be manufactured utilizing any one of the standard approaches, these include a) ‘Oil in water’ process, b) ‘Phase Inversion’ process and c) ‘One-pot’ process. For example, when using “oil in water” process, surfactants of the present invention are added to approximately 50% of total water amount of the composition at about 90° C., homogenized for 15 to 30 min, then cooled to room temperature thus forming gel network thickener premix; this premix is then mixed cold with remaining amounts of water, other optional components and oxidizing agent or a source of carbonate, carbamate or hydrogencarbonate ions, thus forming first or second part of the above described bleaching or colouring kit.
The present invention may be utilized in a variety of packaging and dispensing devices. These dispensing devices can come in the form of separate devices which may be used independently or in combination with one another. Typically, the hair colouring or bleaching compositions are contained within separate single or multi compartment containers so that the compositions can be stored separately from one another before use. The compositions are then mixed together by a mixing means and then applied to the consumer's hair by an application means.
The most common packaging device which can be used for the present invention involves storing the developer in a container such as a bottle, tube, aerosol, or a sachet and separately storing the dye lotion in an additional compartment within the developer container or in a separate container which may be identical such as a dual sachet or aesrosol systems for example or different such as a bottle and tube system.
The consumer may mix the developer lotion and the dye lotion by any means. This may simply involve the use of a mixing bowl into which the lotions are dispensed and then mixed, preferably using a mixing means such as a tool. Alternatively it may involve the addition of one of the lotions into the container of the other lotion, (typically the dye lotion is added to the developer lotion), followed by manual shaking or mixing with a tool. Another system involves the perforation or displacement of a seal located between the separate compartments of the dye and developer lotion within a single container or sachet followed by manual mixing within the container or in a separate and or additional container.
An example of such devices are the so called ‘twist and go’ devices. These devices allow the consumer to twist the base of a container holding the dye which enables a communication port to open that exposes the base of the bottle holding the dye and the top of the bottle holding the developer. The two components are mixed and the consumer dispenses the product by squeezing the flexible top portion of the bottle for dispensing.
Alternatively more complex devices may be utilised, whereby the lotions are mixed upon actuation of dispensing. An example of such as a complex system is a dual aerosol system e.g. bag-in-can or piston. The dye and developer are stored separately in two aerosol cans within one device, a propellant being used to pressurize the contents of the can or bag in can or piston and a valve providing the control of dispensation. When the consumer actuates the valve, the dye and developer are dispensed simultaneously out of the cans and are mixed together via a static mixer just before dispensing the product onto the hair. The ratio of the dye and developer can be manipulated by the viscosity of the products, the can pressure, or by altering the flow channel sizes through the valve. Additionally, the product can be foamed and delivered via a mousse form.
Another example of such a complex system utilises a dual piston screw system. The dye and the developer are kept in separate piston cylinder systems within the system and when the consumer actuates a button, two screws are rotated such that the dual pistons inside pressurize the liquid in the cylinders and thus force the products to move through a mixing station and out of the nozzle for dispensing. The ratios of the dye and the developer can be manipulated by the diameter of the cylinder of the package. Additionally, an in line static mixer can be used to aid mixing and such a system can be completely disposable or completely refillable.
Yet another system utilises one or more manually actuated pumps. The product may be premixed in a collapsible sachet. When the consumer actuates the pump, the liquid inside the pump is dispensed. As the manually actuated pump returns to the upright position it forces product from a collapsible sachet. Alternatively, a dual system can be installed whereby two sachets and two pumps are used to deliver the dye and the developer lotions to the hair. Alternatively, a single pump connected to two sachets can deliver the product by incorporating the mixing point within the pump. Another embodiment uses a rigid bottle and a dip tube to connect the product to the pump system. Finally, a delaminating bottle can be used in combination with a manually actuated pump where the inner layer of the bottle separates from the outer layer of the bottle which forces the contents of the bottle to be emptied.
Typically these complex systems offer the advantage of product application independently of the orientation of the product.
The devices described herein above can also be used in combination with a product delivery and or application tool to aid application of the product onto the hair. Again these devices may be of a very simple nature such as a nozzle attached to one of the containers or a separate applicator device such as a comb or brush. Such combs and brushes can be adapted in order to achieve particular effects, whether it be quick and even coverage or root/hairline touch up, or highlights or streaks. Alternatively, the container or one of the containers may be provided with a comb attached to or instead of the dispensing nozzle whereby the product is dispensed through hollow tines and dispensing apertures located in the comb tines. The comb tines may be provided with single or multiple openings along the tines to improve product application and evenness especially root to tip. Product dispensation can be achieved by mechanical pressure applied to the container for example delaminating bottles or any of the mechanisms described hereinabove. The comb may be provided on the container such as to facilitate easy application and may be positioned vertically (so called verticomb) or at an angle to allow the consumer to access all areas. All devices may be designed to have inter-changeability, so that a range of different tools for hair application can be provided to the consumer.
The application devices may also include devices which assist in achieving particular effects such as highlighting such as highlighting combs, brushes and tools, foils and highlighting caps.
Additional device technology can be used to assist in the penetration of the product into the hair. Examples of such technology include heating devices, ultraviolet light devices and ultrasound devices.
EXAMPLES
The following examples illustrate oxidative dye compositions according to the present invention. It is understood that the examples and embodiments described herein are for illustrative purposes only and that various modifications or changes in light thereof will be suggested to one skilled in the art without departing from the scope of the present invention.
Examples 1-10 (Mixed Compositions)





















Ingredient
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11


























Ammonium Carbonate
2.4
—
2.0
1.0
—
—
—
5.0
3.0
—
2.0


Ammonium Hydrogen Carbonate
—
3.0
—
—
2.5
4.0
2.0
—
—
4.0
—


Ammonium Carbamate
—
3.0
—
—
2.5
4.0
1.0
—
—
4.0
—


Potassium Hydrogen Carbonate
—
—
1.0
4.0
—
—
—
—
—
—
—


Crodafos ® CES
—
—
—
—
—
6.0
1.5
2.5
2.0
—
—


(Cetearyl alcohol, dicetyl


phosphate & ceteth-10 phosphate)


Steareth-100
3.0
—
—
—
—
—
—
—
1.0
—
—


Sodium Palmytoyl Sarcosinate
—
1.5
—
—
—
—
—
—
—
—
—


Sodium Carboxymethyl Lauryl

—
1.0
—
—
—
—
—
—
0.8
1.0


Glucoside


Sodium Alkyl Glyceryl Sulphonate
—
—
—
3.0
—
—
—
—
—
2.0
—


Behentrimonium Chloride
—
—
—
—
1.5
—
—
—
—
—
—


Cetyl Alcohol
—
2.2
3.0
5.0
2.0
—
—
1.0
2.0
2.5
3.0


Stearyl Alcohol
—
3.8
3.0
5.0
2.0
—
—
1.0
2.0
4.5
3.0


Steareth-2
10.0
—
—
—
—
—
—
—
2.0
—
—


p-phenylene diamine
0.8

0.6
0.1
0.8
—
0.6
0.1
0.8
—
0.6


p-amino phenol
—
0.3
—
0.4
—
0.3
—
0.4
—
0.3
—


2,5-diaminotoluene sulphate
—
0.1
0.2
—
—
0.1
0.2
—
—
0.1
0.2


m-aminophenol
0.2
—
0.1
—
0.2
—
0.1
—
0.2
—
0.1


Resorcinol
—
0.5
—
0.4
—
0.5
—
0.4
—
0.5
—


napthol
0.03
—
0.2
—
0.03
—
0.2
—
0.03
—
0.2


4-amino-2-hydroxy toluene
—
0.2
—
0.3
—
0.2
—
0.3
—
0.2
—


Phenyl methyl pyrazalone
0.2
—
—
—
—
0.1
—
—
—
—
—


1-hydroxyethyl-4,5-diamino
0.3
—
—
—
—
0.2
—
—
—
—
—


pyrazole sulphate


Basic red 51
—
0.1
—
—
—
—
0.2
—
—
—
—


Basic yellow 87
—
0.2
—
—
—
—
0.3
—
—
—
—


Hydrogen Peroxide (35% active)
8.6
8.6
8.6
13..0
13.0
13.0
17.0
10.7
10.7
10.7
4.0


Amidomethicone (DCAP 6087)
1.0
—
—
—
—
—
—
—
—
—
—


Polyquaternium-22 (Merquat 295)
—
—
—
—
—
—
—
0.1
—
—
—


Polyquaternium-37 & Mineral
—
—
—
0.5
—
—
—
0.2
—
—
—


oil (Salcare SC95)


Xanthan gum

—
—
—
0.1
—
—
—
—
—
—


Ceteareth-25
—
0.8
0.8
—
0.8
—
—
0.8
—
—
0.8


Acrylates Steareth-20 Methacrylate
—
—
—
—
—
—
3.5
—
—
—
—


Copolymer (Aculyn ® 22)


EDTA (tetrasodium salt)
0.1
0.1
0.1
0.1
0.1
0.1
0.1
0.1
0.1
0.1
0.1


Sodium sulphite
0.1
0.1
0.1
0.1
0.1
0.1
0.1
0.1
0.1
0.1
0.1


Ascorbic Acid
0.1
0.1
0.1
0.1
0.1
0.1
0.1
0.1
0.1
0.1
0.1


Propylene Glycol
3.0
3.0
3.0
3.0
3.0
3.0
3.0
3.0
3.0
3.0
3.0


pH adjust to pH 9.0
qs
qs
qs
qs
qs
qs
qs
qs
qs
qs
qs


Water
qs
qs
qs
qs
qs
qs
qs
qs
qs
qs
qs









The viscosity of these compositions are within the range of 1000 to 60000 cPs.
Examples 11-12
The following hair colouring compositions are prepared (Part A):














Ingredient
12
13


















1
Ammonium Carbonate
11.0
11.0


2
Gel network thickener (total of rows 3-5)
—
(4.0)


3
Crodafos ® S2A (Ceteth-2 phosphate)
—
1.2


4
Cetyl Alcohol
—
0.9


5
Stearyl Alcohol
—
1.1


6
Para-phenylene-diamine
0.6
—


7
Para-aminophenol
—
0.30


8
Meta-aminophenol
0.2
—


9
Resorcinol
—
0.5


10
Naphthol
0.03
—


11
Phenyl methyl pyrazalone
0.2
—


12
1-hydroxyethyl-4-5-diamineo pyrazole
0.3
—


13
2,5 diaminotoluene sulphate
—
0.1


14
4 amino-2-hydroxytoluene
—
o.2


15
Propylene Glycol
6.0
6.0


16
EDTA (tetrasodium salt)
0.1
0.1


17
Sodium sulphite
0.1
0.1


18
Ascorbic Acid
0.1
0.1



pH adjust to pH 9.0
qs
qs



Water
qs
qs









The viscosity of the composition of Example 11 (part A) is below 1000 cPs i.e. it is a Part 06 thin-thin composition. The viscosity of the composition of Example 12 (Part A) is within the range of 1000 to 60000 cPs i.e. a thick-thick composition.
The following developer compositions are prepared (Part B):













Formulation












Ingredient
12
13













1
Hydrogen peroxide (35%)
8.6
8.6


2
Gel network thickener (total of rows 3-5)
(5.0)
—


3
Crodafos ® S2A (Ceteth-2 phosphate)
1.5
—


4
Cetyl Alcohol
1.0
2.0


5
Stearyl Alcohol
2.5
2.0


6
Steareth-25
—
1.0


7
Etidronic Acid
0.2
0.2



Water
qs
qs









Part A and Part B are mixed prior to application on hair and the viscosity of the mixed formulations is within the range of 1000 to 60000 cPs.
All documents cited in the Detailed Description of the Invention are, in relevant part, incorporated herein by reference; the citation of any document is not to be construed as an admission that it is prior art with respect to the present invention. To the extent that any meaning or definition of a term in this written document conflicts with any meaning or definition of the term in a document incorporated by reference, the meaning or definition assigned to the term in this written document shall govern.
While particular embodiments of the present invention have been illustrated and described, it would be obvious to those skilled in the art that various other changes and modifications can be made without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention. It is therefore intended to cover in the appended claims all such changes and modifications that are the scope of this invention.

## Claims

1. A hair colouring or bleaching composition comprising
i) at least 0.25 mole/1 of a source of peroxymonocarbonate ions, and
ii) a gel network thickener system comprising a total amount of from about 1% to about 15% of:
(A) at least one surfactant or amphophile having an HLB of about 6 or less selected from fatty alcohols comprising from 14 to 30 carbon atoms; and
(B) an anionic surfactant is selected from 14 to 18 carbon atom alkyl ether phosphates having an average 1 to 10 ethylene oxide units;

wherein said composition is free of a source of radical scavengers and wherein said composition has a pH of from about 7.5 to about 9.5.

2. A hair coloring or bleaching composition according to claim 1, wherein said composition further comprises at least one source of ammonium ions.

3. A hair colouring or bleaching composition according to claim 1, wherein said composition has a viscosity of from about 1000 to about 60000 cPs.

4. A hair colouring composition according to claim 1, wherein said composition comprises at least one oxidative dye precursor or at least one pre-formed dye.

5. The hair colouring or bleaching composition of claim 1 wherein the fatty alcohols are selected from the group consisting of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

6. The hair colouring or bleaching composition of claim 5 wherein the fatty alcohols ratio to the 14 to 18 carbon atom alkyl ether phosphates having an average 1 to 10 ethylene oxide units is from 10:1 to 1:1.

7. A hair colouring or bleaching kit comprising
i) an individually packaged first component comprising at least one source of hydrogen peroxide
ii) an individually packaged second component comprising a source of carbonate ions, carbamate ions, hydrogencarbonate ions, or mixtures thereof;
wherein said first component or said second component further comprising a total amount of from about 1% to about 15% of:
(A) at least one gel network thickener system comprising at least one surfactant or amphophile having an HLB of about 6 or less selected from fatty alcohols comprising from 14 to 30 carbon atoms and
(B) an anionic surfactant is selected from 14 to 18 carbon atom alkyl ether phosphates having an average 1 to 10 ethylene oxide units;
wherein upon mixing of the first and second components, the resultant mixture comprises at least about 0.25 mole/1 of a source of peroxymonocarbonate ions, the resultant mixture is free of a source of radical scavenger, and the resultant mixture has a pH of from about 7.5 to about 9.5.

8. A hair colouring or bleaching kit according to claim 7, wherein the viscosity of the second component is less than about 1000 cPs and the viscosity of the resultant mixture of the first and second components is from about 1000 to about 60000 cPs.

9. The hair colouring or bleaching kit of claim 7 wherein the fatty alcohols are selected from the group consisting of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

10. The hair colouring or bleaching kit of claim 9 wherein the fatty alcohols ratio to the 14 to 18 carbon atom alkyl ether phosphates having an average 1 to 10 ethylene oxide units is from 10:1 to 1:1.