# Patent

## Title
Topical skin care formulations comprising plant extracts

## Abstract

Disclosed are compositions and corresponding methods of their use that include extracts from a Lonicera maackii and Polygonum hydropiper. The composition can be used to reduce tyrosinase activity and elastase activity in skin cells.

## Background
CROSS REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATIONS
This application is a continuation of U.S. application Ser. No. 12/869,352, filed Aug. 26, 2010, which claims the benefit of U.S. Provisional Application No. 61/237,087, filed Aug. 26, 2009. The contents of the referenced applications are incorporated into the present application by reference.


BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
A. Field of the Invention
The present invention relates generally to compositions that include one or any combination of plant extracts selected from the group consisting of: Ficus tikoua; Polygonum hydropiper; Pistacia chinensis; Zizyphus mauritiana; Garuga forrestii; Michelia figo; Populus davidiana; Sabina chinensis; Cuphea balsamona; Setaria palmifolia; Polygonum lapathifolium; Artemisia parviflora; Camptotheca acuminate; Washingtonia filifera; Machilus longipedicellata; Geranium nepalense; Ipomoea obscura; Cedrus deodara; Quercus aliena; Loropetalum chinensis; carqueja; condurango; catuaba; Carex baccans; Trema angustifolia; Chrysalidocarpus lutescens; Gnaphalium pensylvanicum; Lonicera maackii; Tsoongiodendron odorum; Celtis sinensis; Cassia siamea; Glochidion lanceolaris; Catalpa yunnanesis; Potamogenton perforliatus; and Cinnamomum japonicum; and any combination of extracts thereof. In particular aspects, the compositions include an extract selected from the group consisting of: Camptotheca acuminate extract; Loropetalum chinensis extract; Chrysalidocarpus lutscens extract; and Potamogenton perforliatus extract; and any combination thereof. The compositions can be formulated as topical skin compositions, edible compositions, injectible compositions, oral compositions, hair care compositions, etc.
B. Description of Related Art
Ageing, chronic exposure to adverse environmental factors, malnutrition, fatigue, etc., can change the visual appearance, physical properties, or physiological functions of skin in ways that are considered visually undesirable. The most notable and obvious changes include the development of fine lines and wrinkles, loss of elasticity, increased sagging, loss of firmness, loss of color evenness or tone, coarse surface texture, and mottled pigmentation. Less obvious, but measurable changes which occur as skin ages or endures chronic environmental insult include a general reduction in cellular and tissue vitality, reduction in cell replication rates, reduced cutaneous blood flow, reduced moisture content, accumulated errors in structure and function, alterations in the normal regulation of common biochemical pathways, and a reduction in the skin's ability to remodel and repair itself. Many of the alterations in appearance and function of the skin are caused by changes in the outer epidermal layer of the skin, while others are caused by changes in the lower dermis.
Previous attempts to improve the visual appearance of skin with known skin active-ingredients have been shown to have various drawbacks such as skin irritation and prolonged recovery periods.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
The inventors discovered that a wide variety of plant extracts have therapeutic benefits. These extracts include extracts obtained from Ficus tikoua, Polygonum hydropiper, Pistacia chinensis, Zizyphus mauritiana, Garuga forrestii, Michelia figo, Populus davidiana, Sabina chinensis, Cuphea balsamona, Setaria palmifolia, Polygonum lapathifolium, Artemisia parviflora, Camptotheca acuminate, Washingtonia filifera, Machilus longipedicellata, Geranium nepalense, Ipomoea obscura, Cedrus deodara, Quercus aliena, Loropetalum chinensis, carqueja, condurango, catuaba, Carex baccans, Trema angustifolia, Chrysalidocarpus lutescens, Gnaphalium pensylvanicum, Lonicera maackii, Tsoongiodendron odorum, Celtis sinensis, Cassia siamea, Glochidion lanceolaris, Catalpa yunnanesis, Potamogenton perforliatus, or Cinnamomum japonicum, or any combination thereof, or at least 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, or 35 of said extracts in a single composition. In particular aspects, the extracts are obtained from the whole plant (i.e., the entire plant is used to prepare the extract) or from a part of the plant (e.g., leaf, stem, root, flower, seed, sap, bark, etc.). The extracts can be aqueous extracts or non-aqueous extracts. The extracts can be extracted with alcohol (e.g., methanol, ethanol propanol, butanol, etc.), glycols, oils, water, etc. The extracts can be included in compositions such as topical skin compositions, edible compositions, injectible compositions, oral compositions, pharmaceutical compositions, hair care compositions, etc.
In one non-limiting aspect of the present invention there is disclosed a method of treating skin comprising topically applying to skin in need thereof a compositing comprising a Loropetalum chinensis extract a dermatologically acceptable vehicle, wherein topical application of the composition to skin in need thereof treats the skin condition. The composition is capable of inhibiting tyrosinase activity, elastase activity, and/or TNF-α activity in the skin and/or inhibiting oxidation in the skin. The composition can be applied to a fine line or wrinkle, erythemic skin, dry, flaky, or itchy skin, skin having an uneven skin tone or melasmic skin, inflamed skin, and other skin associated disorders disclosed throughout this specification. The composition can further include extracts from Trema angustifolia and/or Glochidion lanceolaris. Such extracts can be from the whole plant or a part of the plant (e.g., leaf, stem, root, flower, seed, sap, bark, etc.). The composition can further inhibit lipoxygenase activity, COX activity, and/or MMP-3 activity. The composition can further include 0.01% to 20% by weight of Loropetalum chinensis extract (or 0.1, 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 30, 40, 50, 60, 70, 80, 90, 99%, or more or any integer or range therein). The composition can be formulated as a lotion, cream, gel, serum, or emulsion. The Loropetalum chinensis extract can be an aqueous extract. The Loropetalum  chinensis extract can be extracted with an alcohol (e.g., methanol, ethanol, propanol, butanol, etc.). The extract of Loropetalum chinensis can be from the whole plant or a part of the plant (e.g., leaf, stem, root, flower, seed, sap, bark, etc.).
In another aspect of the present invention there is disclosed a topical skin care composition comprising Loropetalum chinensis extract and a dermatologically acceptable vehicle. The composition can include 0.01% to 20% by weight of Loropetalum chinensis extract (or 0.1, 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 30, 40, 50, 60, 70, 80, 90, 99%, or more or any integer or range therein). The composition can further include a moisturizing agent or a humectant, at least 40% by weight of water, a surfactant, a silicone containing compounds, a UV agent, an oil, and/or other ingredients identified in this specification or those known in the art. The composition can be a lotion, cream, gel, serum, emulsion, powder, etc. The Loropetalum chinensis extract can be an aqueous extract. The Loropetalum chinensis extract can be extracted with an alcohol (e.g., methanol, ethanol, propanol, butanol, etc.). The extract of Loropetalum chinensis can be from the whole plant or a part of the plant (e.g., leaf, stem, root, flower, seed, sap, bark, etc.). The composition can further include extracts from Trema angustifolia and/or Glochidion lanceolaris. Such extracts can be from the whole plant or a part of the plant (e.g., leaf, stem, root, flower, seed, sap, bark, etc.).
In another aspect, there is disclosed an aqueous extract of obtained from Ficus tikoua, Polygonum hydropiper, Pistacia chinensis, Zizyphus mauritiana, Garuga forrestii, Michelia figo, Populus davidiana, Sabina chinensis, Cuphea balsamona, Setaria palmifolia, Polygonum lapathifolium, Artemisia parviflora, Camptotheca acuminate, Washingtonia filifera, Machilus longipedicellata, Geranium nepalense, Ipomoea obscura, Cedrus deodara, Quercus aliena, Loropetalum chinensis, carqueja, condurango, catuaba, Carex baccans, Trema angustifolia, Chrysalidocarpus lutescens, Gnaphalium pensylvanicum, Lonicera maackii, Tsoongiodendron odorum, Celtis sinensis, Cassia siamea, Glochidion lanceolaris, Catalpa yunnanesis, Potamogenton perforliatus, or Cinnamomum japonicum, or any combination thereof, or at least 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, or 35 of said extracts in a single composition. In particular aspects, the extracts can be obtained from the whole plant (i.e., the entire plant is used to prepare the extract) or from a part of the plant (e.g., leaf, stem, root, flower, seed, sap, bark, etc.). The extracts can be aqueous extracts or non-aqueous extracts. The extracts can be extracted with alcohol (e.g., methanol, ethanol propanol, butanol, etc.), glycols, oils, water, etc. In particular embodiments, the extract is an extract from Loropetalum chinensis, Trema angustifolia and/or Glochidion lanceolaris, and any combination thereof.
In certain embodiments, the compositions of the present invention include Ficus  tikoua, Polygonum hydropiper, Pistacia chinensis, Zizyphus mauritiana, Garuga forrestii, Michelia figo, Populus davidiana, Sabina chinensis, Cuphea balsamona, Setaria Polygonum lapathifolium, Artemisia parviflora, Camptotheca acuminate, Washingtonia filifera, Machilus longipedicellata, Geranium nepalense, Ipomoea obscura, Cedrus deodara, Quercus aliena, Loropetalum chinensis, carqueja, condurango, catuaba, Carex baccans, Trema angustifolia, Chrysalidocarpus lutescens, Gnaphalium pensylvanicum, Lonicera maackii, Tsoongiodendron odorum, Celtis sinensis, Cassia siamea, Glochidion lanceolaris, Catalpa yunnanesis, Potamogenton perforliatus, or Cinnamomum japonicum, or any combination thereof, or at least 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, or 35 of said extracts in a single composition. The extracts can be obtained from the whole plant (i.e., the entire plant is used to prepare the extract) or from a part of the plant (e.g., leaf, stem, root, flower, seed, sap, bark, etc.). Such compositions can be formulated into topical skin or hair care compositions. The compositions can be cosmetic compositions. The compositions can be formulated as emulsions (e.g., oil-in-water, water-in-oil, silicone-in-water, water-in-silicone, water-in-oil-in-water, oil-in-water, oil-in-water-in-oil, oil-in-water-in-silicone, etc.), creams, lotions, solutions (e.g., aqueous or hydro-alcoholic solutions), anhydrous bases (e.g., lipstick or a powder), gels, ointments, milks, pastes, aerosols, solid forms, eye jellies, etc. The compositions can also be formulated for topical skin application at least 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, or more times a day during use. In other aspects of the present invention, compositions can be storage stable or color stable, or both. It is also contemplated that the viscosity of the composition can be selected to achieve a desired result, e.g., depending on the type of composition desired, the viscosity of such composition can be from about 1 cps to well over 1 million cps or any range or integer derivable therein (e.g., 2 cps, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 20, 30, 40, 50, 60, 70, 80, 90, 100, 200, 300, 400, 500, 600, 700, 800, 900, 1000, 2000, 3000, 4000, 5000, 6000, 7000, 8000, 9000, 10000, 20000, 30000, 40000, 50000, 60000, 70000, 80000, 90000, 100000, 200000, 300000, 400000, 500000, 600000, 700000, 800000, 900000, 1000000 cps, etc., as measured on a Brookfield Viscometer using a TC spindle at 2.5 rpm at 25° C.).
The compositions of the present invention can include any desired amount of any one of or any combination of the aforementioned extracts. The amount of the extracts can individually or combined be from 0.0001, 0.0002, 0.0003, 0.0004, 0.0005, 0.0006, 0.0007, 0.0008, 0.0009, 0.001, 0.002, 0.003, 0.004, 0.005, 0.006, 0.007, 0.008, 0.009, 0.01, 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 25, 30, 35, 40, 45, 50, 60, 70, 80, 90, 95, 96, 97, 98, 99%, or more, or any range derivable therein, by weight or volume of the extract or combination of extracts.
The compositions of the present invention can also be modified to have a desired oxygen radical absorbance capacity (ORAC) value. In certain non-limiting aspects, the compositions of the present invention or the plant extracts identified throughout this specification can be modified to have an ORAC value per mg of at least about 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 35, 40, 45, 50, 55, 60, 70, 80, 90, 95, 100, 200, 300, 400, 500, 600, 700, 800, 900, 1000, 2000, 3000, 4000, 5000, 6000, 7000, 8000, 9000, 10000, 15000, 20000, 30000, 50000, 100000 or more or any range derivable therein.
The compositions in non-limiting aspects can have a pH of about 6 to about 9. In other aspects, the pH can be 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, or 14. The compositions can include a triglyceride. Non-limiting examples include small, medium, and large chain triglycerides. In certain aspects, the triglyceride is a medium chain triglyceride (e.g., caprylic capric triglyceride). The compositions can also include preservatives. Non-limiting examples of preservatives include methylparaben, propylparaben, or a mixture of methylparaben and propylparaben.
Compositions of the present invention can have UVA and UVB absorption properties. The compositions can have an sun protection factor (SPF) of 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 20, 25, 30, 35, 40, 45, 50, 55, 60, or more, or any integer or derivative therein. The compositions can be sunscreen lotions, sprays, or creams.
The compositions of the present invention can also include any one of, any combination of, or all of the following additional ingredients: water, a chelating agent, a moisturizing agent, a preservative, a thickening agent, a silicone containing compound, an essential oil, a structuring agent, a vitamin, a pharmaceutical ingredient, or an antioxidant, or any combination of such ingredients or mixtures of such ingredients. In certain aspects, the composition can include at least two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight, nine, ten, or all of these additional ingredients identified in the previous sentence. Non-limiting examples of these additional ingredients are identified throughout this specification and are incorporated into this section by reference. The amounts of such ingredients can range from 0.0001% to 99.9% by weight or volume of the composition, or any integer or range in between as disclosed in other sections of this specification, which are incorporated into this paragraph by reference.
In another embodiment, there is disclosed a topical skin care composition that includes an one of or combination of the aforementioned extracts in combination with any one of, any combination of, or all of the following ingredients: water; glycerin; butylene glycol; propylene glycol; phenoxyethanol; a chelating agent (e.g., EDTA, disodium EDTA, trisodium EDTA, EGTA, disodium EGTA, trisodium EGTA, citric acid, phosphoric acid, succinic acid, etc.); steareth-20; chlorhexidine diglunonate; potassium sorbate; and/or a preservative (e.g., methylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, ethylparaben, isobutylparaben, etc.). In particular aspects, the composition can further include any one of, any combination of, or all of the following additional ingredients: alcohol; denatured alcohol; glyceryl stearate; dimethicone; PEG-100 stearate; capryl glycol; triethanolamine; maltodextrin; sorbic acid; ethylene brassylate; methyl linalool; isobutyl methyl tetrahydropyranol; ethylhexylglycerin; and/or hexylene glycol. The concentrations of these ingredients can range from 0.00001 to 99% by weight or volume of the composition or any integer or range derivable therein as explained in other portions of this specification which are incorporated into this paragraph by reference. In particular aspects, the concentration of water can be at least 35% to 80% by weight of water.
In another embodiment, there is disclosed a topical skin care composition that includes an one of or combination of the aforementioned extracts in combination with any one of, any combination of or all of the following ingredients: water; dimethicone; triethanolamine; phenonip; betaine; a chelating agent (e.g., EDTA, disodium EDTA, trisodium EDTA, EGTA, disodium EGTA, trisodium EGTA, citric acid, phosphoric acid, succinic acid, etc.); tocopheryl acetate; and/or prodew 400. In particular aspects, the composition can further include any one of, any combination of, or all of the following additional ingredients: propylene glycol; isododecane; polyacrylamide/C13-C14 isoparaffin/laureth 7 mixture; PEG-12 dimethicone; and/or ethylhexyl palmitate. The concentrations of these ingredients can range from 0.00001 to 99% by weight or volume of the composition or any integer or range derivable therein as explained in other portions of this specification which are incorporated into this paragraph by reference. In particular aspects, the concentration of water can be at least 35% to 80% by weight of water.
In another embodiment, there is disclosed a topical skin care composition that includes an one of or combination of the aforementioned extracts in combination with any one of, any combination of, or all of the following ingredients: water; glycerin; pentylene glycol; capryl glycol; disodium EDTA; capric/caprylic triglyceride; shea butter; squalane; cetyl alcohol; dimethicone; ceramide II; stearic acid; a mixture of glyceryl stearate and PEG 100 stearate; or a mixture of acrylamide/acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, isohexadecane, and polysorbate 80. The concentrations of these ingredients can range from 0.00001 to 99% by weight or volume of the composition or any integer or range derivable therein as explained in other portions of this specification which are incorporated into this paragraph by reference. In particular aspects, the concentration of water can be at least 35% to 80% by weight of water. The ratio of water to glycerin can be from about 7:1 to 9:1 based on the total weight of the composition. The ratio of glycerin to pentylene glycol can be from about 1:1 to about 2:1 based on the total weight of the composition.
In another embodiment, there is disclosed a topical skin care composition that includes an one of or combination of the aforementioned extracts in combination with any one of, any combination of, or all of the following ingredients: water; glycerin; capryl glycol; capryl glycol; disodium EDTA; petrolatum; squalane; cetyl alcohol; a mixture of glyceryl stearate and PEG 100 stearate; dimethicone; or a mixture of acrylamide/acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, isohexadecane, and polysorbate 80. The concentrations of these ingredients can range from 0.00001 to 99% by weight or volume of the composition or any integer or range derivable therein as explained in other portions of this specification which are incorporated into this paragraph by reference. In particular aspects, the concentration of water can be at least 35% to 80% by weight of water. The ratio of water to glycerin can be from about 12:1 to 16:1 based on the total weight of the composition. The ratio of glycerin to pentylene glycol can be from about 0.5:1 to about 1.5:1 based on the total weight of the composition.
In another embodiment, there is disclosed a topical skin care composition that includes an one of or combination of the aforementioned extracts in combination with any one of, any combination of, or all of the following ingredients: water; xanthan gum; disodium EDTA; pentylene glycol; capryl glycol; acrylate C10-30 acrylate cross polymer; triethanolamine; PVP/hexadecene copolymer; C12-15 alkyl benzoate; sorbitan isostearate; or a sunscreen agent. The concentrations of these ingredients can range from 0.00001 to 99% by weight or volume of the composition or any integer or range derivable therein as explained in other portions of this specification which are incorporated into this paragraph by reference. In particular aspects, the concentration of water can be at least 35% to 80% by weight of water. The ratio of water to C12-15 alkyl benzoate can be from about 2:1 to 3:1 based on the total weight of the composition. The ratio of water to pentylene glycol can be from about 9:1 to about 11:1 based on the total weight of the composition.
In another embodiment, there is disclosed a topical skin care composition that includes an one of or combination of the aforementioned extracts in combination with any one of, any combination of, or all of the following ingredients: water; disodium EDTA; citric acid; pentylene glycol; capryl glycol; sodium cocoamphodiacetate; or sodium methyl cocoyl taurate. The concentrations of these ingredients can range from 0.00001 to 99% by weight or volume of the composition or any integer or range derivable therein as explained in other portions of this specification which are incorporated into this paragraph by reference. In particular aspects, the concentration of water can be at least 35% to 80% by weight of water. The ratio of water to pentylene glycol can be from about 12:1 to 14:1 based on the total weight of the composition. The ratio of water to sodium cocoamphodiacetate can be from about 8:1 to about 11:1 based on the total weight of the composition. The ratio of water to sodium methyl cocoyl taurate can be from about 2:1 to about 4:1 based on the total weight of the composition. The ratio of sodium methyl cocoyl taurate to sodium cocoamphodiacetate can be from about 2:1 to about 4:1 based on the total weight of the composition.
In one embodiment of the present invention there is disclosed a method of reducing the appearance of symptoms associated with erythema (e.g., erythemic skin, sensitive skin, inflamed skin) comprising topically applying a composition to erythemic, sensitive, or inflamed skin wherein the composition includes an extract selected from Ficus tikoua, Polygonum hydropiper, Pistacia chinensis, Zizyphus mauritiana, Garuga forrestii, Michelia figo, Populus davidiana, Sabina chinensis, Cuphea balsamona, Setaria palmifolia, Polygonum lapathifolium, Artemisia parviflora, Camptotheca acuminate, Washingtonia filifera, Machilus longipedicellata, Geranium nepalense, Ipomoea obscura, Cedrus deodara, Quercus aliena, Loropetalum chinensis, carqueja, condurango, catuaba, Carex baccans, Trema angustifolia, Chrysalidocarpus lutescens, Gnaphalium pensylvanicum, Lonicera maackii, Tsoongiodendron odorum, Celtis sinensis, Cassia siamea, Glochidion lanceolaris, Catalpa yunnanesis, Potamogenton perforliatus, or Cinnamomum japonicum, or any combination thereof, or at least 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, or 35 of said extracts in a single composition; and a dermatologically acceptable vehicle, wherein topical application of the composition to erythemic, sensitive, or inflamed skin reduces the appearance of symptoms associated with erythema, sensitive skin, or inflamed skin. The extracts can be obtained from the whole plant (i.e., the entire plant is used to prepare the extract) or from a part of the plant (e.g., leaf, stem, root, flower, seed, sap, bark, etc.). Further, the compositions described throughout the specification and claims can be used with this method. In particular embodiments, the extract is an extract from Loropetalum chinensis, Trema angustifolia and/or Glochidion lanceolaris, and any combination thereof. Erythema can be caused by skin sunburn, electrical treatments of skin, skin burns, contact allergies, systemic allergies, skin toxicity, exercise, insect stings, bacterial infection, viral infection, fungal infection, protozoa infection, massage, windburn, etc.
In still another aspect of the present invention there is disclosed a method of treating dry, flaky, or itchy skin or reducing the appearance of uneven skin tone comprising topically applying a composition to dry, flaky, or itchy skin or to skin having an uneven skin tone, wherein the composition includes an extract selected from Ficus tikoua, Polygonum hydropiper, Pistacia chinensis, Zizyphus mauritiana, Garuga forrestii, Michelia figo, Populus davidiana, Sabina chinensis, Cuphea balsamona, Setaria palmifolia, Polygonum lapathifolium, Artemisia parviflora, Camptotheca acuminate, Washingtonia filifera, Machilus longipedicellata, Geranium nepalense, Ipomoea obscura, Cedrus deodara, Quercus aliena, Loropetalum chinensis, carqueja, condurango, catuaba, Carex baccans, Trema angustifolia, Chrysalidocarpus lutescens, Gnaphalium pensylvanicum, Lonicera maackii, Tsoongiodendron odorum, Celtis sinensis, Cassia siamea, Glochidion lanceolaris, Catalpa yunnanesis, Potamogenton perforliatus, or Cinnamomum japonicum, or any combination thereof, or at least 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, or 35 of said extracts in a single composition; and a dermatologically acceptable vehicle. The extracts can be obtained from the whole plant (i.e., the entire plant is used to prepare the extract) or from a part of the plant (e.g., leaf, stem, root, flower, seed, sap, bark, etc.). Further, the compositions described throughout the specification and claims can be used with this method. In particular embodiments, the extract is an extract from Loropetalum  chinensis, Trema angustifolia and/or Glochidion lanceolaris, and any combination thereof.
Also disclosed is a method of reducing the appearance of fine lines or wrinkles comprising topically applying a composition to skin having fine lines or wrinkles, wherein the composition includes an extract selected from the group consisting of: Ficus tikoua, Polygonum hydropiper, Pistacia chinensis, Zizyphus mauritiana, Garuga forrestii, Michelia figo, Populus davidiana, Sabina chinensis, Cuphea balsamona, Setaria palmifolia, Polygonum lapathifolium, Artemisia parviflora, Camptotheca acuminate, Washingtonia filifera, Machilus longipedicellata, Geranium nepalense, Ipomoea obscura, Cedrus deodara, Quercus aliena, Loropetalum chinensis, carqueja, condurango, catuaba, Carex baccans, Trema angustifolia, Chrysalidocarpus lutescens, Gnaphalium pensylvanicum, Lonicera maackii, Tsoongiodendron odorum, Celtis sinensis, Cassia siamea, Glochidion lanceolaris, Catalpa yunnanesis, Potamogenton perforliatus, or Cinnamomum japonicum, or any combination thereof, or at least 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, or 35 of said extracts in a single composition. In particular aspects, the extracts are obtained from the whole plant (i.e., the entire plant is used to prepare the extract) or from a part of the plant (e.g., leaf, stem, root, flower, seed, sap, bark, etc.). The extracts can be aqueous extracts or non-aqueous extracts. The extracts can be extracted with alcohol (e.g., methanol, ethanol propanol, butanol, etc.), glycols, oils, water, etc. In particular embodiments, the extract is an extract from Loropetalum chinensis, Trema angustifolia and/or Glochidion  lanceolaris, and any combination thereof.
In one embodiment of the present invention there is disclosed a method of reducing the appearance of symptoms associated with erythema (e.g., erythemic skin, sensitive skin, inflamed skin) comprising topically applying a composition to erythemic, sensitive, or inflamed skin wherein the composition includes an extract selected from Ficus tikoua, Polygonum hydropiper, Pistacia chinensis, Zizyphus mauritiana, Garuga forrestii, Michelia figo, Populus davidiana, Sabina chinensis, Cuphea balsamona, Setaria palmifolia, Polygonum lapathifolium, Artemisia parviflora, Camptotheca acuminate, Washingtonia filifera, Machilus longipedicellata, Geranium nepalense, Ipomoea obscura, Cedrus deodara, Quercus aliena, Loropetalum chinensis, carqueja, condurango, catuaba, Carex baccans, Trema angustifolia, Chrysalidocarpus lutescens, Gnaphalium pensylvanicum, Lonicera maackii, Tsoongiodendron odorum, Celtis sinensis, Cassia siamea, Glochidion lanceolaris, Catalpa yunnanesis, Potamogenton perforliatus, or Cinnamomum japonicum, or any combination thereof, or at least 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, or 35 of said extracts in a single composition; and a dermatologically acceptable vehicle, wherein topical application of the composition to skin exhibiting symptoms of erythema reduces the appearance of said symptoms. The extracts can be obtained from the whole plant (i.e., the entire plant is used to prepare the extract) or from a part of the plant (e.g., leaf, stem, root, flower, seed, sap, bark, etc.). In particular embodiments, the extract is an extract from Loropetalum chinensis, Trema angustifolia and/or Glochidion lanceolaris, and any combination thereof.
In one embodiment of the present invention there is disclosed a method of reducing pain associated with erythema, sensitive skin, or inflamed skin, comprising topically applying a composition to erythemic, sensitive, or inflamed skin wherein the composition includes an extract selected from the group consisting of: Ficus tikoua, Polygonum hydropiper, Pistacia chinensis, Zizyphus mauritiana, Garuga forrestii, Michelia figo, Populus davidiana, Sabina chinensis, Cuphea balsamona, Setaria palmifolia, Polygonum lapathifolium, Artemisia parviflora, Camptotheca acuminate, Washingtonia filifera, Machilus longipedicellata, Geranium nepalense, Ipomoea obscura, Cedrus deodara, Quercus aliena, Loropetalum chinensis, carqueja, condurango, catuaba, Carex baccans, Trema angustifolia, Chrysalidocarpus lutescens, Gnaphalium pensylvanicum, Lonicera maackii, Tsoongiodendron odorum, Celtis sinensis, Cassia siamea, Glochidion lanceolaris, Catalpa yunnanesis, Potamogenton perforliatus, or Cinnamomum japonicum, or any combination thereof, or at least 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, or 35 of said extracts in a single composition; and a dermatologically acceptable vehicle, wherein topical application of the composition to erythemic, sensitive, or inflamed skin reduces the pain associated with erythema, sensitive skin, or inflamed skin. The extracts can be obtained from the whole plant (i.e., the entire plant is used to prepare the extract) or from a part of the plant (e.g., leaf, stem, root, flower, seed, sap, bark, etc.).
In another embodiment there is disclosed a method of treating or preventing a skin condition comprising topically applying a composition to skin having a skin condition, wherein the composition includes an extract selected from the group consisting of: Ficus tikoua, Polygonum hydropiper, Pistacia chinensis, Zizyphus mauritiana, Garuga forrestii, Michelia figo, Populus davidiana, Sabina chinensis, Cuphea balsamona, Setaria palmifolia, Polygonum lapathifolium, Artemisia parviflora, Camptotheca acuminate, Washingtonia filifera, Machilus longipedicellata, Geranium nepalense, Ipomoea obscura, Cedrus deodara, Quercus aliena, Loropetalum chinensis, carqueja, condurango, catuaba, Carex baccans, Trema angustifolia, Chrysalidocarpus lutescens, Gnaphalium pensylvanicum, Lonicera maackii, Tsoongiodendron odorum, Celtis sinensis, Cassia siamea, Glochidion lanceolaris, Catalpa yunnanesis, Potamogenton perforliatus, or Cinnamomum japonicum, or any combination thereof, or at least 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, or 35 of said extracts in a single composition; and a dermatologically acceptable vehicle, wherein topical application of the composition to the skin condition treats the skin condition. The extracts can be obtained from the whole plant (i.e., the entire plant is used to prepare the extract) or from a part of the plant (e.g., leaf, stem, root, flower, seed, sap, bark, etc). Further, the compositions described throughout the specification and claims can be used with this method. Non-limiting examples of skin conditions include dry skin, itchy skin, inflamed skin, erythema, sensitive skin, pruritus, spider veins, lentigo, age spots, senile purpura, keratosis, melasma, blotches, fine lines or wrinkles, nodules, sun damaged skin, dermatitis (including, but not limited to seborrheic dermatitis, nummular dermatitis, contact dermatitis, atopic dermatitis, exfoliative dermatitis, perioral dermatitis, and stasis dermatitis), psoriasis, folliculitis, rosacea, acne, impetigo, erysipelas, erythrasma, eczema, sun burns, burned skin, open wounds, skin-inflammatory skin conditions, etc. In certain non-limiting aspects, the skin condition can be caused by exposure to UV light, age, irradiation, chronic sun exposure, environmental pollutants, air pollution, wind, cold, heat, chemicals, disease pathologies, smoking, or lack of nutrition. The skin can be facial skin or non-facial skin (e.g., arms, legs, hands, chest, back, feet, etc.). The method can further comprise identifying a person in need of skin treatment. The person can be a male or female. The age of the person can be at least 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 15, 20, 25, 30, 35, 40, 45, 50, 55, 60, 65, 70, 75, 80, 85, 90, 95, or more years old, or any range derivable therein. The method can also include topically applying an amount effective to: increase the stratum corneum turnover rate of the skin; increase collagen synthesis in fibroblasts; increase cellular anti-oxidant defense mechanisms (e.g., exogenous additions of anti-oxidants can bolster, replenish, or prevent the loss of cellular antioxidants such as catalase and glutathione in skin cells (e.g., keratinocytes, melanocytes, langerhans cells, etc.) which will reduce or prevent oxidative damage to the skin, cellular, proteins, and lipids); inhibit melanin production in melanocytes; reduce or prevent oxidative damage to skin (including reducing the amount lipid peroxides and/or protein oxidation in the skin). In particular embodiments, the extract is an extract from Loropetalum chinensis, Trema angustifolia and/or Glochidion lanceolaris, and any combination thereof.
In certain embodiments, compositions of the present invention can decrease the amount of internal oxidation and/or external oxidative damage in a cell. In other aspects, the compositions can increase collagen synthesis in a cell. The compositions can also reduce skin inflammation, such as by reducing inflammatory cytokine production in a cell. Non-limiting examples of such cells include human epidermal keratinocyte, human fibroblast dermal cell, human melanocytes, three dimensional human cell-derived in vitro tissue equivalents comprising human keratinocytes, human fibroblasts, or human melanocytes, or any combination thereof (e.g., combination of human keratinocytes and human fibroblasts or a combination of human keratinocytes and human melanocytes).
Also disclosed is a method of treating hyperpigmentation comprising applying the compositions of the present invention to the skin. The method can also comprise identifying a person in need of treating hyperpigmentation and applying the composition to a portion of the skin exhibiting hyperpigmentation. Additional methods contemplated by the inventors include methods for reducing the appearance of an age spot, a skin discoloration, or a freckle, reducing or preventing the appearance of fine lines or wrinkles in skin, or increasing the firmness of skin by applying the compositions of the present invention to skin in need of such treatment.
In yet another aspect of the present invention there is disclosed a method of treating or preventing a wide variety of diseases comprising administering to a patient in need of treatment a composition comprising an extract selected from Ficus tikoua, Polygonum hydropiper, Pistacia chinensis, Zizyphus mauritiana, Garuga forrestii, Michelia figo, Populus davidiana, Sabina chinensis, Cuphea balsamona, Setaria palmifolia, Polygonum lapathifolium, Artemisia parviflora, Camptotheca acuminate, Washingtonia filifera, Machilus longipedicellata, Geranium nepalense, Ipomoea obscura, Cedrus deodara, Quercus aliena, Loropetalum chinensis, carqueja, condurango, catuaba, Carex baccans, Trema angustifolia, Chrysalidocarpus lutescens, Gnaphalium pensylvanicum, Lonicera maackii, Tsoongiodendron odorum, Celtis sinensis, Cassia siamea, Glochidion lanceolaris, Catalpa yunnanesis, Potamogenton perforliatus, or Cinnamomum japonicum, or any combination thereof, or at least 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, or 35 of said extracts in a single composition. The extracts can be obtained from the whole plant (i.e., the entire plant is used to prepare the extract) or from a part of the plant (e.g., leaf, stem, root, flower, seed, sap, bark, etc.). The composition can be formulated as a topical composition, an ingestible composition, an injectible composition, an aerosolized composition, etc. Non-limiting examples of diseases that can be treated or prevented with such compositions include AIDS, autoimmune diseases (e.g., rheumatoid arthritis, multiple sclerosis, diabetes—insulin-dependent and non-independent, systemic lupus erythematosus and Graves disease), cancer (e.g., malignant, benign, metastatic, precancer), cardiovascular diseases (eg, heart disease or coronary artery disease, stroke—ischemic and hemorrhagic, and rheumatic heart disease), diseases of the nervous system, and infection by pathogenic microorganisms (e.g., Athlete's Foot, Chickenpox, Common cold, Diarrheal diseases, Flu, Genital herpes, Malaria, Meningitis, Pneumonia, Sinusitis, Skin diseases, Strep throat, Tuberculosis, Urinary tract infections, Vaginal infections, Viral hepatitis), inflammation (e.g., allergy, asthma), prion diseases (e.g., CJD, kuru, GSS, FFI), obesity, etc.
Also disclosed is a composition comprising an extract of an extract of Ficus  tikoua, Polygonum hydropiper, Pistacia chinensis, Zizyphus mauritiana, Garuga forrestii, Michelia figo, Populus davidiana, Sabina chinensis, Cuphea balsamona, Setaria palmifolia, Polygonum lapathifolium, Artemisia parviflora, Camptotheca acuminate, Washingtonia filifera, Machilus longipedicellata, Geranium nepalense, Ipomoea obscura, Cedrus deodara, Quercus aliena, Loropetalum chinensis, carqueja, condurango, catuaba, Carex baccans, Trema angustifolia, Chrysalidocarpus lutescens, Gnaphalium pensylvanicum, Lonicera maackii, Tsoongiodendron odorum, Celtis sinensis, Cassia siamea, Glochidion lanceolaris, Catalpa yunnanesis, Potamogenton perforliatus, or Cinnamomum japonicum, or any combination thereof, or at least 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, or 35 of said extracts in a single composition. The extracts can be obtained from the whole plant (i.e., the entire plant is used to prepare the extract) or from a part of the plant (e.g., leaf, stem, root, flower, seed, sap, bark, etc.). The composition can be an edible composition. The composition can take the form of a pill, liquid gel cap, or tablet. The composition can be an injectable solution (e.g., for intravenous delivery). The composition can be in the form of a neutraceutical. The extract can be an aqueous extract. The aqueous extract can include an alcohol, a glycol, water and/or water. In particular embodiments, the extract is an extract from Loropetalum chinensis, Trema angustifolia and/or Glochidion lanceolaris, and any combination thereof.
In still another embodiment, there is disclosed a multi-purpose composition comprising: (a) an anti-oxidant selected from an extract of Loropetalum chinensis, Trema angustifolia, Glochidion lanceolaris, Ficus tikoua, Polygonum hydropiper, Pistacia chinensis, Zizyphus mauritiana, Michelia figo, Populus davidiana, Sabina chinensis, Cuphea balsamona, Polygonum lapathifolium, Artemisia parviflora, Washingtonia filifera, Machilus longipedicellata, Geranium nepalense, Ipomoea obscura, Cedrus deodara, Quercus aliena, Condurango, Catuaba, Carqueja, Chrysalidocarpus lutescens, Gnaphalium pensylvanicum, Tsoongiodendron odorum, Celtis sinensis, Cassia siamea, Catalpa yunnanesis, Potamogenton perforliatus, or Cinnamomum japonicum, or any combination thereof; (b) an inhibitor of tyrosinase activity selected from an extract of Loropetalum chinensis, Glochidion lanceolaris, Ficus tikoua, Zizyphus mauritiana, Garuga forrestii, Sabina chinensis, Cuphea balsamona, Setaria palmifolia, Polygonum lapathifolium, Camptotheca acuminate, Washingtonia filifera, Machilus longipedicellata, Geranium nepalense, or Quercus aliena, or any combination thereof; (c) an inhibitor of elastase activity selected from an extract of Loropetalum chinensis, Trema angustifolia, Carqueja, Ficus tikoua, Polygonum hydropiper, Pistacia chinensis, Garuga forrestii, Michelia figo, Populus davidiana, Cuphea balsamona, Setaria palmifolia, Polygonum lapathifolium, Artemisia parviflora, Washingtonia filifera, Machilus longipedicellata, Geranium nepalense, Ipomoea obscura, Cedrus deodara, Carex baccans, Chrysalidocarpus lutescens, Gnaphalium pensylvanicum, Lonicera maakii, Tsoongiodendron odorum, Celtis sinensis, Cassia siamea, or Cinnamomum japonicum, or any combination thereof; (d) an inhibitor of TNF-α activity selected from an extract of Loropetalum chinensis, Glochidion lanceolaris, Carqueja, Polygonum hydropiper, Zizyphus mauritiana, Garuga forrestiii, Michelia figo, Sabina chinensis, Machilus longipedicellata, Ipomoea obscura, Cedrus deodara, Quercus aliena, Condurango, Catuaba, Chrysalidocarpus lutescens, Lonicera maackii, Tsoongiodendron odorum, Celtis sinensis, or Cinnamomum japonicum, or any combination thereof; (e) an inhibitor of lipoxygenase activity selected from an extract of Glochidion lanceolaris, or Carqueja, or both; (f) an inhibitor of COX 1 and/or 2 activity selected from an extract of Glochidion lanceolaris, or Catuaba, or both; and/or (g) an inhibitor of MMP 1 and/or 3 activity selected from an extract of Trema angustifolia, Carqueja, Condurango, or Catuaba, or any combination thereof. In certain aspects, the composition includes: (a) an anti-oxidant selected from an extract of Loropetalum  chinensis, Trema angustifolia, or Glochidion lanceolaris; (b) an inhibitor of tyrosinase activity selected from an extract of Loropetalum chinensis, or Glochidion lanceolaris; (c) an inhibitor of elastase activity selected from an extract of Loropetalum chinensis, Trema angustifolia, or Carqueja; (d) an inhibitor of TNF-α activity selected from an extract of Loropetalum chinensis, Glochidion lanceolaris, or Carqueja; (e) an inhibitor of lipoxygenase activity selected from an extract of Glochidion lanceolaris, or Carqueja; (f) an inhibitor of COX 1 and/or 2 activity selected from an extract of Glochidion lanceolaris, or Catuaba; and (g) an inhibitor of MMP 1 and/or 3 activity selected from an extract of Trema angustifolia, Carqueja, Condurango, or Catuaba. The composition can be a topical skin composition, which can include a dermatologically acceptable vehicle. Given its multi-purpose, it can treat or prevent a wide variety of skin conditions associated with oxidation of skin, tyrosinase activity in skin cells, elastase activity in skin cells, TNF-α activity in skin cells, lipoxygenase activity in skin cells, COX 1 activity in skin cells, COX 2 activity in skin cells, MMP 1 activity in skin cells, and MMP 3 activity in skin cells. The composition can be an edible composition. The composition can take the form of a pill, liquid gel cap, or tablet. The composition can be an injectable solution (e.g., for intravenous delivery). The composition can be in the form of a neutraceutical. The extract can be an aqueous extract. The aqueous extract can include an alcohol, a glycol, water and/or water. The extracts can be obtained from the whole plant (i.e., the entire plant is used to prepare the extract) or from a part of the plant (e.g., leaf, stem, root, flower, seed, sap, bark, etc.).
Kits that include the compositions of the present invention are also contemplated. In certain embodiments, the composition is comprised in a container. The container can be a bottle, dispenser, or package. The container can dispense a pre-determined amount of the composition. In certain aspects, the compositions is dispensed in a spray, dollop, or liquid. The container can include indicia on its surface. The indicia can be a word, an abbreviation, a picture, or a symbol.
Also contemplated is a product comprising a composition of the present invention. In non-limiting aspects, the product can be a cosmetic product. The cosmetic product can be those described in other sections of this specification or those known to a person of skill in the art. Non-limiting examples of products include a moisturizer, a cream, a lotion, a skin softener, a foundation, a night cream, a lipstick, a cleanser, a toner, a sunscreen, a mask, an anti-aging product, a deodorant, an antiperspirant, a perfume, a cologne, etc.
It is also contemplated that compositions of the present invention can be included into food-based products (e.g., beverages, fortified water, energy drinks, nutritional drinks, solid foods, vitamins, supplements, etc.) and pharmaceutical products (e.g., pills, tablets, gel capsules, injectible solutions, drugs, etc.). “Supplements” can include vitamins, minerals, herbs or other botanicals, amino acids, enzymes and metabolites. Such supplements are suitable for oral consumption and can be administered orally.
It is contemplated that any embodiment discussed in this specification can be implemented with respect to any method or composition of the invention, and vice versa. Furthermore, compositions of the invention can be used to achieve methods of the invention.
In one embodiment, the topical skin compositions of the current invention are pharmaceutically elegant. “Pharmaceutically elegant” describes a composition that has particular tactile properties which feel pleasant on the skin (e.g., compositions that are not too watery or greasy, compositions that have a silky texture, compositions that are non-tacky or sticky, etc.). Pharmaceutically elegant can also relate to the creaminess or lubricity properties of the composition or to the moisture retaining properties of the composition.
“Keratinous tissue” includes keratin-containing layers disposed as the outermost protective covering of mammals and includes, but is not limited to, skin, hair and nails.
“Topical application” means to apply or spread a composition onto the surface of keratinous tissue. “Topical skin composition” includes compositions suitable for topical application on keratinous tissue. Such compositions are typically dermatologically-acceptable in that they do not have undue toxicity, incompatibility, instability, allergic response, and the like, when applied to skin. Topical skin care compositions of the present invention can have a selected viscosity to avoid significant dripping or pooling after application to skin.
The term “about” or “approximately” are defined as being close to as understood by one of ordinary skill in the art, and in one non-limiting embodiment the terms are defined to be within 10%, preferably within 5%, more preferably within 1%, and most preferably within 0.5%.
The terms “inhibiting” or “reducing” or any variation of these terms, when used in the claims and/or the specification includes any measurable decrease or complete inhibition to achieve a desired result.
The term “effective,” as that term is used in the specification and/or claims, means adequate to accomplish a desired, expected, or intended result.
The use of the word “a” or “an” when used in conjunction with the term “comprising” in the claims and/or the specification may mean “one,” but it is also consistent with the meaning of “one or more,” “at least one,” and “one or more than one.”
The words “comprising” (and any form of comprising, such as “comprise” and “comprises”), “having” (and any form of having, such as “have” and “has”), “including” (and any form of including, such as “includes” and “include”) or “containing” (and any form of containing, such as “contains” and “contain”) are inclusive or open-ended and do not exclude additional, unrecited elements or method steps.
Other objects, features and advantages of the present invention will become apparent from the following detailed description. It should be understood, however, that the detailed description and the examples, while indicating specific embodiments of the invention, are given by way of illustration only. Additionally, it is contemplated that changes and modifications within the spirit and scope of the invention will become apparent to those skilled in the art from this detailed description.



BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
The following drawings form part of the present specification and are included to further demonstrate certain aspects of the present invention. The invention may be better understood by reference to one or more of these drawings in combination with the detailed description of specific embodiments presented below.
FIG. 1. Extraction process used to obtain extracts from each of the following plants: Ficus tikoua, Polygonum hydropiper, Pistacia chinensis, Zizyphus mauritiana, Garuga forrestii, Michelia figo, Populus davidiana, Sabina chinensis, Cuphea balsamona, Setaria palmifolia, Polygonum lapathifolium, Artemisia parviflora, Camptotheca acuminate, Washingtonia filifera, Machilus longipedicellata, Geranium nepalense, Ipomoea obscura, Cedrus deodara, Quercus aliena, Loropetalum chinensis, carqueja, condurango, catuaba, Carex baccans, Trema angustifolia, Chrysalidocarpus lutescens, Gnaphalium pensylvanicum, Lonicera maackii, Tsoongiodendron odorum, Celtis sinensis, Cassia siamea, Glochidion lanceolaris, Catalpa yunnanesis, Potamogenton perforliatus, and Cinnamomum japonicum. 



DESCRIPTION OF ILLUSTRATIVE EMBODIMENTS
In today's image conscious society, people are continually looking for a product that can improve the visual appearance of their skin. Often times, aged skin, uneven skin tone, or skin damaged by environmental factors such as UV light, chronic sun exposure, environmental pollutants, chemicals, disease pathologies, or smoking, is associated with unattractive skin. Previous attempts to improve the visual appearance of skin has been shown to have various drawbacks such as skin irritation and prolonged recovery periods.
The present invention is an effective alternative to the use of compositions and ingredients currently used to treat aged skin, environmentally-damaged skin, uneven skin tone, and other skin conditions. In one non-limiting embodiment, the compositions of the present invention can be used to treat irritation of the skin and to improve the skin's visual appearance, physiological functions, clinical properties, or biophysical properties by providing a composition of the present invention to an area of the skin that needs such treatment. As noted throughout this specification, the compositions can include any one of Loropetalum chinensis, Camptotheca acuminate, Lonicera maackii, Washingtonia filifera, Artemisia parviflora, Glochidion lanceolaris, Polygonum hydropiper, Populus davidiana, Tsoongiodendron odorum, Trema angustifolia, Ficus tikoua, Pistacia chinensis, Zizyphus mauritiana, Garuga forrestii, Michelia figo, Sabina chinensis, Cuphea balsamona, Setaria palmifolia, Polygonum lapathifolium, Machilus longipedicellata, Geranium nepalense, Ipomoea obscura, Cedrus deodara, Quercus aliena, Carqueja, Condurango, Catuaba, Carex baccans, Chrysalidocarpus lutescens, Gnaphalium pensylvanicum, Celtis sinensis, Cassia siamea, Catalpa yunnanesis, Potamogenton perforliatus, Cinnamomum japonicum, or any combination thereof, or all of such extracts, or at least 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, or 35 of such extracts.
These and other non-limiting aspects of the present invention are described in further detail below.
A. Extracts
1. Camptotheca Acuminate Extract
Camptotheca acuminate, also known as the Happy Tree, is a medium-sized deciduous tree. It belongs to the Nyssaceae family, and is native to China and Tibet.
The inventors have discovered that extracts of Camptotheca acuminate have several biological activities, which can be beneficial to skin. Non-limiting examples of some of these biological activities include inhibition of inflammatory mediators to reduce skin irritation and synthesis of extracellular matrix proteins to promote a more youthful appearance of skin. All of the different portions of Camptotheca acuminate can be used to obtain the corresponding extract. Non-limiting examples include its leaves, stems, bark, roots, fruit, flowers or flower buds, seeds, sap, and the entire plant.
2. Loropetalum Chinensis Extract
Loropetalum chinensis, also known as the Chinese fringe flower or Chinese Witch-hazel, is an evergreen shrub. It belongs to the Hammamelidaceae family and is native to China, Japan, and the Himalayas.
The inventors have discovered that extracts of Loropetalum chinensis have several biological activities, which can be beneficial to skin. Non-limiting examples of some of these biological activities include inhibition of inflammatory mediators to reduce skin irritation and synthesis of extracellular matrix proteins to promote a more youthful appearance of skin. All of the different portions of Loropetalum chinensis can be used to obtain the corresponding extract. Non-limiting examples include its leaves, stems, bark, roots, fruit, flowers or flower buds, seeds, sap, and the entire plant.
3. Chrysalidocarpus Lutscens Extract
Chrysalidocarpus lutescens is also known as the areca palm, golden cane palm, or the Madagascar palm. It is a member of the Arecacea family and is native to the tropics and the sub-tropic regions/zones of the world.
The inventors have discovered that extracts of Chrysalidocarpus lutescens have several biological activities, which can be beneficial to skin. Non-limiting examples of some of these biological activities include inhibition of inflammatory mediators to reduce skin irritation and synthesis of extracellular matrix proteins to promote a more youthful appearance of skin. All of the different portions of Chrysalidocarpus lutescens can be used to obtain the corresponding extract. Non-limiting examples include its leaves, stems, bark, roots, flowers or flower buds, fruit, seeds, sap, and the entire plant.
4. Potamogenton Perforliatus Extract
Potamogenton perforliatus, also known as claspingleaf pondweed, is an aquatic plant. It is a member of the Potamogetonaceae family and is native to the United States and Europe.
The inventors have discovered that extracts of Potamogenton perforliatus have several biological activities, which can be beneficial to skin. Non-limiting examples of some of these biological activities include inhibition of inflammatory mediators to reduce skin irritation and synthesis of extracellular matrix proteins to promote a more youthful appearance of skin. All of the different portions of Potamogenton perforliatus can be used to obtain the corresponding extract. Non-limiting examples include its leaves, stems, bark, roots, flowers or flower buds, fruit, seeds, sap, and the entire plant.
5. Trema Angustifolia Extract
Trema angustifolia is a member of the Ulmaceae family and is native to parts of Asia. Trema angustifolia is a shrub or small tree that has dark green leaves, and Trema species are fast-growing pioneer trees that contain economically important alkaloids.
The inventors have discovered that extracts of Trema angustifolia have several biological activities, which can be beneficial to skin. Non-limiting examples of some of these biological activities include inhibition of inflammatory mediators to reduce skin irritation and synthesis of extracellular matrix proteins to promote a more youthful appearance of skin. All of the different portions of Trema angustifolia can be used to obtain the corresponding extract. Non-limiting examples include its leaves, stems, bark, roots, flowers or flower buds, fruit, seeds, sap, and the entire plant.
6. Glochidion Lanceolaris Extract
Glochidion lanceolaris, also known as ai jiao suan pan zi, is an evergreen shrub or tree. It is a member of the Phyllanthceae family and is native to Southern Asia.
The inventors have discovered that extracts of Glochidion lanceolaris have several biological activities, which can be beneficial to skin. Non-limiting examples of some of these biological activities include inhibition of inflammatory mediators to reduce skin irritation and synthesis of extracellular matrix proteins to promote a more youthful appearance of skin. All of the different portions of Glochidion lanceolaris can be used to obtain the corresponding extract. Non-limiting examples include its leaves, stems, bark, roots, flowers or flower buds, fruit, seeds, sap, and the entire plant.
7. Remaining Extracts
Ficus tikoua is a woody vine. It belongs to the Moraceae family and is native to India, Laos, and North Vietnam.
Polygonum hydropiper, also known as water pepper or knotweed, is a flowering plant. It belongs to the Polygonaceae or buckwheat family and is native to Eurasia.
Pistacia chinensis, also known as the Chinese Pistache, is a small to medium-sized tree. It belongs to the Anacardiaceae family and is native to central and western China.
Zizyphus mauritiana, also known as the Indian Jujube, is a tropical fruit tree. It belongs to the Rhamnaceae family and is native to southern Asia, and mainly India.
Garuga forrestii, also known as Garuga yunnanensis, is a tree. It belongs to the Burseraceae family and is native to India.
Michelia figo, also known as the Banana Shrub or Port Wine Magnolia, is a an evergreen tree or hedge. It belongs to the Magnoliaceae family and is native to China.
Populus davidiana, also known as the Korean Aspen or the Chinese Aspen, is a deciduous flowering plant. It belongs to the Populus genus and the Saliaceae family. It is native to the Northern Hemisphere.
Sabina chinensis, also known as Chinese Juniper, is a evergreen creeping shrub, shrub, or tree. It belongs to the Juniperus genus and the Cupressaceae family. It is native to China.
Cuphea balsamona is also known as Columbian Waxweed. It belongs to the Lythrum genus and the Lythraceae or the Myrtales family.
Setaria palmifolia is also known as palm grass. It belongs to the Poaceae or Gramineae family and is native to parts of temperate and tropical Asia.
Polygonum lapathifolium, also known as curlytop knotweed, is an annual plant. It belongs to the Polygonaceae, or Buckwheat, family and is native to Europe.
Artemisia parviflora is also known as Artemisia japonica. It belongs to the Asteraceae or Compositae family and is native to Asia, including India.
Washingtonia filifera, also known as Desert Fan Palm, is a palm. It belongs to the Arecaceae or Palmaceae family and is native to Arizona, Nev., northwest Mexico, and the inland deserts of southern California.
Machilus longipedicellata is also known as Machilus yannanensis. It belongs to the Lauraceae, or Laurel, family and is native to India.
Geranium nepalense, also known as Nepalese Crane's Bill, is a dicot. It belongs to the Geraniaceae family and is native to China, Japan, and Taiwan.
Ipomoea obscura, also known as obscure morning glory, is a flowering vine. It belongs to the Polemoniales order and the Convolvulaceae family and is native to tropical East Africa, tropical Asia, throughout Malaysia to northern Australia and Fiji.
Cedrus deodara, also known as the Deodar Cedar or the Himalayan Cedar, is a large evergreen coniferous tree. It belongs to the Pinaceae, or pine, family and is native to the western Himalayas in eastern Afghanistan, northern Pakistan, north-central India, southwesternmost Tibet and western Nepal.
Quercus aliena, also known as the Oriental White Oak, is a deciduous tree. It belongs to the Fagaceae, or beech, family and is native to Eastern Asia.
Carqueja, or Baccharis genistelloides, is a shrub-like perennial green plant that grows in many terrains of South America. Carqueja is a member of the Asteraceae family.
Condurango, or Marsdenia cundurango, is a tropical woody vine that is found in the high mountain jungles and cloud forests of South America. Condurango is a member of the Apocynaceae and Asclepiadaceae families.
Catuaba, or Erythroxylum catuaba or Juniperus Brasiliensis, is a small tree that is found in the northern part of Brazil. Catuaba is a member of the Erythroxylaceae family.
Carex baccan is a member of the Cyperaceae family and is native to Asia. The plant has bright, shiny seed heads, and produces dark green leaves.
Gnaphalium pensylvanicum is a member of the Asteraceae family. It has alternate leaves with no leaf stalk.
Lonicera maackii, also known as the Amur Honeysuckle or Bush Honeysuckle, is a deciduous large shrub. It is a species of honeysuckle in the family Caprifoliaceae and is native to temperate Asia.
Tsoongiodendron odorum, also known as Michelia odora, is an evergreen tree. It is a member of the Magnoliaceae family and is native to parts of Asia.
Celtis sinensis, also known as the Japanese Hackberry, is a deciduous tree. It is a member of the Ulaceae (elm) family and is native to Eastern Asia.
Cassia siamea, also known as Senna siamea or the Kassod tree, is a fast growing evergreen tree. It is a member of the Fabaceae or Leguminosae family and is native to Southeast Asia.
Catalpa yunnanesis is a member of the Bignonianceae family and is native to Eastern Asia.
Cinnamomum japonicum, also known as Japanese Cinnamon, is an evergreen tree. It is a member of the Lauraceae family and is native to Korea, Japan, and Taiwan.
The inventors have discovered that all of these extracts have several biological activities, which can be beneficial to skin. Non-limiting examples of some of these biological activities include inhibition of inflammatory mediators to reduce skin irritation and synthesis of extracellular matrix proteins to promote a more youthful appearance of skin. All of the different portions of the plants can be used to obtain the corresponding extract. Non-limiting examples include its leaves, stems, bark, roots, fruit, flowers or flower buds, seeds, sap, and the entire plant.
8. Extraction Methods
In addition to the extraction process described in FIG. 1, a person of ordinary skill in the art would be able to isolate any one of the extracts identified above from parts of the corresponding plant by using any suitable method known in the art. In one non-limiting example, the plant (or any part of the plant such as the leaves, stems, bark, roots, fruit, flowers or flower buds, seeds, seed pods, sap, whole plant, etc.) can be disrupted by mechanical means which results in a puree. The puree is then processed to be substantially free of impurities or undesired solids. The puree can then be poured into a shallow vessel and quickly exposed to low temperature, i.e., flash frozen, for example at −20° C. or lower, preferably under a vacuum for removal of water content (lyophilization). The resultant extract can then be used in the compositions of the present invention.
In other aspects, aqueous, alcoholic, or oil based extraction techniques, or combinations thereof, can be used on the whole plant or any part thereof of (e.g., leaves, stems, bark, roots, fruit, flowers or flower buds, seeds, seed pods, sap, whole plant, etc.) to produce an extract. In such a process, the desired part of the plant or the whole plant is crushed up (e.g., blender) and then subjected to a desired solvent (e.g., water, alcohol, water/alcohol, or oil based solvents) to obtain the desired extract. The extract can then be stored in liquid form, lyophilized, or subject to further processing techniques (e.g., heating, cooling, etc.). Extraction processes are well-known to those having ordinary skill in the extract field (e.g., maceration, infusion, percolation, digestion, decoction, hot continuous extraction, aqueous-alcoholic extract, counter current extract, microwave assisted extraction, ultrasound extraction, supercritical fluid extracts, phytonic extract (e.g., with hydro-fluoro-carbon solvents), etc.
B. Compositions of the Present Invention
1. Combinations and Amounts of Ingredients
It is contemplated that the compositions of the present invention can include any one of Loropetalum chinensis, Camptotheca acuminate, Lonicera maackii, Washingtonia filifera, Artemisia parviflora, Glochidion lanceolaris, Polygonum hydropiper, Populus davidiana, Tsoongiodendron odorum, Trema angustifolia, Ficus tikoua, Pistacia chinensis, Zizyphus mauritiana, Garuga forrestii, Michelia figo, Sabina chinensis, Cuphea balsamona, Setaria palmifolia, Polygonum lapathifolium, Machilus longipedicellata, Geranium nepalense, Ipomoea obscura, Cedrus deodara, Quercus aliena, Carqueja, Condurango, Catuaba, Carex baccans, Chrysalidocarpus lutescens, Gnaphalium pensylvanicum, Celtis sinensis, Cassia siamea, Catalpa yunnanesis, Potamogenton perforliatus, Cinnamomum japonicum, or any combination thereof, or all of such extracts, or at least 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, or 35 of such extracts. The compositions can also include additional ingredients described throughout this specification. The concentrations of the plant extracts and/or additional ingredients can vary. In non-limiting embodiments, for example, the compositions can include in their final form, for example, at least about 0.0001%, 0.0002%, 0.0003%, 0.0004%, 0.0005%, 0.0006%, 0.0007%, 0.0008%, 0.0009%, 0.0010%, 0.0011%, 0.0012%, 0.0013%, 0.0014%, 0.0015%, 0.0016%, 0.0017%, 0.0018%, 0.0019%, 0.0020%, 0.0021%, 0.0022%, 0.0023%, 0.0024%, 0.0025%, 0.0026%, 0.0027%, 0.0028%, 0.0029%, 0.0030%, 0.0031%, 0.0032%, 0.0033%, 0.0034%, 0.0035%, 0.0036%, 0.0037%, 0.0038%, 0.0039%, 0.0040%, 0.0041%, 0.0042%, 0.0043%, 0.0044%, 0.0045%, 0.0016%, 0.0017%, 0.0048%, 0.0049%, 0.0050%, 0.0051%, 0.0052%, 0.0053%, 0.0054%, 0.0055%, 0.0056%, 0.0057%, 0.0058%, 0.0059%, 0.0060%, 0.0061%, 0.0062%, 0.0063%, 0.0064%, 0.0065%, 0.0066%, 0.0067%, 0.0068%, 0.0069%, 0.0070%, 0.0071%, 0.0072%, 0.0073%, 0.0074%, 0.0075%, 0.0076%, 0.0077%, 0.0078%, 0.0079%, 0.0080%, 0.0081%, 0.0082%, 0.0083%, 0.0084%, 0.0085%, 0.0086%, 0.0087%, 0.0088%, 0.0089%, 0.0090%, 0.0091%, 0.0092%, 0.0093%, 0.0094%, 0.0095%, 0.0096%, 0.0097%, 0.0098%, 0.0099%, 0.0100%, 0.0200%, 0.0250%, 0.0275%, 0.0300%, 0.0325%, 0.0350%, 0.0375%, 0.0400%, 0.0425%, 0.0450%, 0.0475%, 0.0500%, 0.0525%, 0.0550%, 0.0575%, 0.0600%, 0.0625%, 0.0650%, 0.0675%, 0.0700%, 0.0725%, 0.0750%, 0.0775%, 0.0800%, 0.0825%, 0.0850%, 0.0875%, 0.0900%, 0.0925%, 0.0950%, 0.0975%, 0.1000%, 0.1250%, 0.1500%, 0.1750%, 0.2000%, 0.2250%, 0.2500%, 0.2750%, 0.3000%, 0.3250%, 0.3500%, 0.3750%, 0.4000%, 0.4250%, 0.4500%, 0.4750%, 0.5000%, 0.5250%, 0.550%, 0.5750%, 0.6000%, 0.6250%, 0.6500%, 0.6750%, 0.7000%, 0.7250%, 0.7500%, 0.7750%, 0.8000%, 0.8250%, 0.8500%, 0.8750%, 0.9000%, 0.9250%, 0.9500%, 0.9750%, 1.0%, 1.1%, 1.2%, 1.3%, 1.4%, 1.5%, 1.6%, 1.7%, 1.8%, 1.9%, 2.0%, 2.1%, 2.2%, 2.3%, 2.4%, 2.5%, 2.6%, 2.7%, 2.8%, 2.9%, 3.0%, 3.1%, 3.2%, 3.3%, 3.4%, 3.5%, 3.6%, 3.7%, 3.8%, 3.9%, 4.0%, 4.1%, 4.2%, 4.3%, 4.4%, 4.5%, 4.6%, 4.7%, 4.8%, 4.9%, 5.0%, 5.1%, 5.2%, 5.3%, 5.4%, 5.5%, 5.6%, 5.7%, 5.8%, 5.9%, 6.0%, 6.1%, 6.2%, 6.3%, 6.4%, 6.5%, 6.6%, 6.7%, 6.8%, 6.9%, 7.0%, 7.1%, 7.2%, 7.3%, 7.4%, 7.5%, 7.6%, 7.7%, 7.8%, 7.9%, 8.0%, 8.1%, 8.2%, 8.3%, 8.4%, 8.5%, 8.6%, 8.7%, 8.8%, 8.9%, 9.0%, 9.1%, 9.2%, 9.3%, 9.4%, 9.5%, 9.6%, 9.7%, 9.8%, 9.9%, 10%, 11%, 12%, 13%, 14%, 15%, 16%, 17%, 18%, 19%, 20%, 21%, 22%, 23%, 24%, 25%, 26%, 27%, 28%, 29%, 30%, 35%, 40%, 45%, 50%, 60%, 65%, 70%, 75%, 80%, 85%, 90%, 95%, or 99% or more, or any range or integer derivable therein, of at least one of the plant extracts identified in this specification or any combination thereof or additional ingredients. In non-limiting aspects, the percentage of such ingredients can be calculated by weight or volume of the total weight of the compositions. The concentrations can vary depending on the desired effect of the compositions or on the product into which the compositions are incorporated.
2. Composition Vehicles
The compositions of the present invention can be formulated into all types of vehicles. Non-limiting examples of suitable vehicles include emulsions (e.g., oil-in-water, water-in-oil, silicone-in-water, water-in-silicone, water-in-oil-in-water, oil-in-water, oil-in-water-in-oil, oil-in-water-in-silicone, etc.), creams, lotions, solutions (both aqueous and hydro-alcoholic), anhydrous bases (such as lipsticks and powders), gels, ointments, pastes, milks, liquids, aerosols, solid forms, or eye jellies. Variations and other appropriate vehicles will be apparent to the skilled artisan and are appropriate for use in the present invention. In certain aspects, the concentrations and combinations of the ingredients can be selected in such a way that the combinations are chemically compatible and do not form complexes which precipitate from the finished product.
It is also contemplated that the plant extracts and additional ingredients identified throughout this specification can be encapsulated for delivery to a target area such as skin. Non-limiting examples of encapsulation techniques include the use of liposomes, vesicles, and/or nanoparticles (e.g., biodegradable and non-biodegradable colloidal particles comprising polymeric materials in which the ingredient is trapped, encapsulated, and/or absorbed—examples include nanospheres and nanocapsules) that can be used as delivery vehicles to deliver such ingredients to skin (see, e.g., U.S. Pat. No. 6,387,398; U.S. Pat. No. 6,203,802; U.S. Pat. No. 5,411,744; Kreuter 1988).
Also contemplated are pharmaceutically-acceptable or pharmacologically-acceptable compositions. The phrase “pharmaceutically-acceptable” or “pharmacologically-acceptable” includes compositions that do not produce an allergic or similar untoward reaction when administered to a human. Typically, such compositions are prepared either as topical compositions, liquid solutions or suspensions, solid forms suitable for solution in, or suspension in, liquid prior to use can also be prepared. Routes of administration can vary with the location and nature of the condition to be treated, and include, e.g., topical, inhalation, intradermal, transdermal, parenteral, intravenous, intramuscular, intranasal, subcutaneous, percutaneous, intratracheal, intraperitoneal, intratumoral, perfusion, lavage, direct injection (e.g., an injectable solution), and oral administration and formulation (e.g., tablets, capsules, etc.).
3. Products
The compositions of the present invention can be incorporated into products. Non-limiting examples of products include cosmetic products, food-based products (e.g., fortified water, energy drinks, nutritional drinks, vitamins, supplements, solid foods), pharmaceutical products, etc. By way of example only, non-limiting cosmetic products include sunscreen products, sunless skin tanning products, hair products (e.g., shampoos, conditioners, colorants, dyes, bleaches, straighteners, and permanent wave products), fingernail products, moisturizing creams, skin creams and lotions, softeners, day lotions, gels, ointments, foundations, night creams, lipsticks and lip balms, cleansers, toners, masks, deodorants, antiperspirants, exfoliating compositions, shaving-related products (e.g., creams, “bracers” and aftershaves), pre-moistened wipes and washcloths, tanning lotions, bath products such as oils, foot care products such as powders and sprays, skin colorant and make-up products such as foundations, blushes, rouges eye shadows and lines, lip colors and mascaras, baby products (e.g., baby lotions, oils, shampoos, powders and wet wipes), and skin or facial peel products. Additionally, the cosmetic products can be formulated as leave-on or rinse-off products.
4. Additional Ingredients
Compositions of the present invention can include additional ingredients. Non-limiting examples of additional ingredients include cosmetic ingredients (both active and non-active) and pharmaceutical ingredients (both active and non-active).
a. Cosmetic Ingredients
The CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook (2008), 12th Edition, describes a wide variety of non-limiting cosmetic ingredients that can be used in the context of the present invention. Examples of these ingredient classes include: fragrances (artificial and natural), dyes and color ingredients (e.g., Blue 1, Blue 1 Lake, Red 40, titanium dioxide, D&C blue no. 4, D&C green no. 5, D&C orange no. 4, D&C red no. 17, D&C red no. 33, D&C violet no. 2, D&C yellow no. 10, and D&C yellow no. 11), adsorbents, emulsifiers, stabilizers, lubricants, solvents, moisturizers (including, e.g., emollients, humectants, film formers, occlusive agents, and agents that affect the natural moisturization mechanisms of the skin), water-repellants, UV absorbers (physical and chemical absorbers such as paraminobenzoic acid (“PABA”) and corresponding PABA derivatives, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, etc.), essential oils, vitamins (e.g., A, B, C, D, E, and K), trace metals (e.g., zinc, calcium and selenium), anti-irritants (e.g., steroids and non-steroidal anti-inflammatories), botanical extracts (e.g., aloe vera, chamomile, cucumber extract, ginkgo biloba, ginseng, and rosemary), anti-microbial agents, antioxidants (e.g., BHT and tocopherol), chelating agents (e.g., clisodium EDTA and tetrasodium EDTA), preservatives (e.g., methylparaben and propylparaben), pH adjusters (e.g., sodium hydroxide and citric acid), absorbents (e.g., aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, kaolin, corn starch, oat starch, cyclodextrin, talc, and zeolite), skin bleaching and lightening agents (e.g., hydroquinone and niacinamide lactate), humectants (e.g., glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, sorbitol, urea, and manitol), exfoliants (e.g., alpha-hydroxyacids, and beta-hydroxyacids such as lactic acid, glycolic acid, and salicylic acid; and salts thereof) waterproofing agents (e.g., magnesium/aluminum hydroxide stearate), skin conditioning agents (e.g., aloe extracts, allantoin, bisabolol, ceramides, dimethicone, hyaluronic acid, and dipotassium glycyrrhizate), thickening agents (e.g., substances which that can increase the viscosity of a composition such as carboxylic acid polymers, crosslinked polyacrylate polymers, polyacrylamide polymers, polysaccharides, and gums), and silicone containing compounds (e.g., silicone oils and polyorganosiloxanes). The following provides specific non-limiting examples of some of the additional ingredients that can be used with the compositions of the present invention.
i. Sunscreen Agents
UV absorption agents that can be used in combination with the compositions of the present invention include chemical and physical sunblocks. Non-limiting examples of chemical sunblocks that can be used include para-aminobenzoic acid (PABA), PABA esters (glyceryl PABA, amyldimethyl PABA and octyldimethyl PABA), butyl PABA, ethyl PABA, ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA, benzophenones (oxybenzone, sulisobenzone, benzophenone, and benzophenone-1 through 12), cinnamates (octyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate, octylmethoxy cinnamate, cinoxate, diisopropyl methyl cinnamate, DEA-methoxycinnamate, ethyl diisopropylcinnamate, glyceryl octanoate dimethoxycinnamate and ethyl methoxycinnamate), cinnamate esters, salicylates (homomethyl salicylate, benzyl salicylate, glycol salicylate, isopropylbenzyl salicylate, etc.), anthranilates, ethyl urocanate, homosalate, octisalate, dibenzoylmethane derivatives (e.g., avobenzone), octocrylene, octyl triazone, digalloy trioleate, glyceryl aminobenzoate, lawsone with dihydroxyacetone, ethylhexyl triazone, dioctyl butamido triazone, benzylidene malonate polysiloxane, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, bis diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl benzoate, bis benzoxazoylphenyl ethylhexylimino triazine, drometrizole trisiloxane, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, and bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyltriazine, 4-methylbenzylidenecamphor, and isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate. Non-limiting examples of physical sunblocks include, kaolin, talc, petrolatum and metal oxides (e.g., titanium dioxide and zinc oxide). Compositions of the present invention can have UVA and UVB absorption properties. The compositions can have an sun protection factor (SPF) of 2, 3, 4, 56, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 20, 25, 30, 35, 40, 45, 50, 55, 60, 70, 80, 90 or more, or any integer or derivative therein.
ii. Moisturizing Agents
Non-limiting examples of moisturizing agents that can be used with the compositions of the present invention include amino acids, chondroitin sulfate, diglycerin, erythritol, fructose, glucose, glycerin, glycerol polymers, glycol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, honey, hyaluronic acid, hydrogenated honey, hydrogenated starch hydrolysate, inositol, lactitol, maltitol, maltose, mannitol, natural moisturizing factor, PEG-15 butanediol, polyglyceryl sorbitol, salts of pyrollidone carboxylic acid, potassium PCA, propylene glycol, sodium glucuronate, sodium PCA, sorbitol, sucrose, trehalose, urea, and xylitol.
Other examples include acetylated lanolin, acetylated lanolin alcohol, acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, acrylates copolymer, alanine, algae extract, aloe barbadensis, aloe-barbadensis extract, aloe barbadensis gel, althea officinalis extract, aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, aluminum stearate, apricot (prunus armeniaca) kernel oil, arginine, arginine aspartate, arnica montana extract, ascorbic acid, ascorbyl palmitate, aspartic acid, avocado (persea gratissima) oil, barium sulfate, barrier sphingolipids, butyl alcohol, beeswax, behenyl alcohol, beta-sitosterol, BHT, birch (betula alba) bark extract, borage (borago  officinalis) extract, 2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol, butcherbroom (ruscus aculeatus) extract, butylene glycol, calendula officinalis extract, calendula officinalis oil, candelilla (euphorbia  cerifera) wax, canola oil, caprylic/capric triglyceride, cardamon (elettaria cardamomum) oil, carnauba (copernicia cerifera) wax, carrageenan (chondrus crispus), carrot (daucus carota sativa) oil, castor (ricinus communis) oil, ceramides, ceresin, ceteareth-5, ceteareth-12, ceteareth-20, cetearyl octanoate, ceteth-20, ceteth-24, cetyl acetate, cetyl octanoate, cetyl palmitate, chamomile (anthemis nobilis) oil, cholesterol, cholesterol esters, cholesteryl hydroxystearate, citric acid, clary (salvia sclarea) oil, cocoa (theobroma cacao) butter, coco-caprylate/caprate, coconut (cocos nucifera) oil, collagen, collagen amino acids, corn (zea mays) oil, fatty acids, decyl oleate, dextrin, diazolidinyl urea, dimethicone copolyol, dimethiconol, dioctyl adipate, dioctyl succinate, dipentaerythrityl hexacaprylate/hexacaprate, DMDM hydantoin, DNA, erythritol, ethoxydiglycol, ethyl linoleate, eucalyptus globulus oil, evening primrose (oenothera  biennis) oil, fatty acids, tructose, gelatin, geranium maculatum oil, glucosamine, glucose glutamate, glutamic acid, glycereth-26, glycerin, glycerol, glyceryl distearate, glyceryl hydroxystearate, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl linoleate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate SE, glycine, glycol stearate, glycol stearate SE, glycosaminoglycans, grape (vitis vinifera) seed oil, hazel (corylus americana) nut oil, hazel (corylus avellana) nut oil, hexylene glycol, honey, hyaluronic acid, hybrid safflower (carthamus tinctorius) oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coco-glycerides, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin, hydrogenated lecithin, hydrogenated palm glyceride, hydrogenated palm kernel oil, hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated tallow glyceride, hydrogenated vegetable oil, hydrolyzed collagen, hydrolyzed elastin, hydrolyzed glycosaminoglycans, hydrolyzed keratin, hydrolyzed soy protein, hydroxylated lanolin, hydroxyproline, imidazolidinyl urea, iodopropynyl butylcarbamate, isocetyl stearate, isocetyl stearoyl stearate, isodecyl oleate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl lanolate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isostearamide DEA, isostearic acid, isostearyl lactate, isostearyl neopentanoate, jasmine (jasminum officinale) oil, jojoba (buxus chinensis) oil, kelp, kukui (aleurites moluccana) nut oil, lactamide MEA, laneth-16, laneth-10 acetate, lanolin, lanolin acid, lanolin alcohol, lanolin oil, lanolin wax, lavender (lavandula angustifolia) oil, lecithin, lemon (citrus medica limonum) oil, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, macadamia ternifolia nut oil, magnesium stearate, magnesium sulfate, maltitol, matricaria (chamomilla recutita) oil, methyl glucose sesquistearate, methylsilanol PCA, microcrystalline wax, mineral oil, mink oil, mortierella oil, myristyl lactate, myristyl myristate, myristyl propionate, neopentyl glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate, octyldodecanol, octyldodecyl myristate, octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyl palmitate, octyl salicylate, octyl stearate, oleic acid, olive (olea europaea) oil, orange (citrus aurantium dulcis) oil, palm (elaeis guineensis) oil, palmitic acid, pantethine, panthenol, panthenyl ethyl ether, paraffin, PCA, peach (prunus persica) kernel oil, peanut (arachis hypogaea) oil, PEG-8 C12-18 ester, PEG-15 cocamine, PEG-150 distearate, PEG-60 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-5 glyceryl stearate, PEG-30 glyceryl stearate, PEG-7 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, PEG40 sorbitan peroleate, PEG-5 soy sterol, PEG-10 soy sterol, PEG-2 stearate, PEG-8 stearate, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-32 stearate, PEG40 stearate, PEG-50 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, PEG-150 stearate, pentadecalactone, peppermint (mentha piperita) oil, petrolatum, phospholipids, polyamino sugar condensate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, polyquaternium-24, polysorbate 20, polysorbate 40, polysorbate 60, polysorbate 80, polysorbate 85, potassium myristate, potassium palmitate, potassium sorbate, potassium stearate, propylene glycol, propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate, propylene glycol dioctanoate, propylene glycol dipelargonate, propylene glycol laurate, propylene glycol stearate, propylene glycol stearate SE, PVP, pyridoxine dipalmitate, quaternium-15, quaternium-18 hectorite, quaternium-22, retinol, retinyl palmitate, rice (oryza  sativa) bran oil, RNA, rosemary (rosmarinus officinalis) oil, rose oil, safflower (carthamus tinctorius) oil, sage (salvia officinalis) oil, salicylic acid, sandalwood (santalum album) oil, serine, serum protein, sesame (sesamum indicum) oil, shea butter (butyrospermum parkii), silk powder, sodium chondroitin sulfate, sodium hyaluronate, sodium lactate, sodium palmitate, sodium PCA, sodium polyglutamate, sodium stearate, soluble collagen, sorbic acid, sorbitan laurate, sorbitan oleate, sorbitan palmitate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan stearate, sorbitol, soybean (glycine soja) oil, sphingolipids, squalane, squalene, stearamide MEA-stearate, stearic acid, stearoxy dimethicone, stearoxytrimethylsilane, stearyl alcohol, stearyl glycyrrhetinate, stearyl heptanoate, stearyl stearate, sunflower (helianthus annuus) seed oil, sweet almond (prunus amygdalus dulcin) oil, synthetic beeswax, tocopherol, tocopheryl acetate, tocopheryl linoleate, tribehenin, tridecyl neopentanoate, tridecyl stearate, triethanolamine, tristearin, urea, vegetable oil, water, waxes, wheat (triticum vulgare) germ oil, and ylang ylang (cananga odorata) oil.
iii. Antioxidants
Non-limiting examples of antioxidants that can be used with the compositions of the present invention include acetyl cysteine, ascorbic acid polypeptide, ascorbyl dipalmitate, ascorbyl methylsilanol pectinate, ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl stearate, BHA, BHT, t-butyl hydroquinone, cysteine, cysteine HCl, diamylhydroquinone, di-t-butylhydroquinone, dicetyl thiodipropionate, dioleyl tocopheryl methylsilanol, disodium ascorbyl sulfate, distearyl thiodipropionate, ditridecyl thiodipropionate, dodecyl gallate, erythorbic acid, esters of ascorbic acid, ethyl ferulate, ferulic acid, gallic acid esters, hydroquinone, isooctyl thioglycolate, kojic acid, magnesium ascorbate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, methylsilanol ascorbate, natural botanical anti-oxidants such as green tea or grape seed extracts, nordihydroguaiaretic acid, octyl gallate, phenylthioglycolic acid, potassium ascorbyl tocopheryl phosphate, potassium sulfite, propyl gallate, quinones, rosmarinic acid, sodium ascorbate, sodium bisulfate, sodium erythorbate, sodium metabisulfite, sodium sulfite, superoxide dismutase, sodium thioglycolate, sorbityl furfural, thiodiglycol, thiodiglycolamide, thiodiglycolic acid, thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid, thiosalicylic acid, tocophereth-5, tocophereth-10, tocophereth-12, tocophereth-18, tocophereth-50, tocopherol, tocophersolan, tocopheryl acetate, tocopheryl linoleate, tocopheryl nicotinate, tocopheryl succinate, and tris(nonylphenyl)phosphite.
iv. Structuring Agents
In other non-limiting aspects, the compositions of the present invention can include a structuring agent. Structuring agents, in certain aspects, assist in providing rheological characteristics to the composition to contribute to the composition's stability. In other aspects, structuring agents can also function as an emulsifier or surfactant. Non-limiting examples of structuring agents include stearic acid, palmitic acid, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, stearic acid, palmitic acid, the polyethylene glycol ether of stearyl alcohol having an average of about 1 to about 21 ethylene oxide units, the polyethylene glycol ether of cetyl alcohol having an average of about 1 to about 5 ethylene oxide units, and mixtures thereof.
v. Emulsifiers
In some non-limiting aspects, the compositions can include one or more emulsifiers. Emulsifiers can reduce the interfacial tension between phases and improve the formulation and stability of an emulsion. The emulsifiers can be nonionic, cationic, anionic, and zwitterionic emulsifiers (See McCutcheon's (1986); U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,011,681; 4,421,769; 3,755,560). Non-limiting examples include esters of glycerin, esters of propylene glycol, fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol, fatty acid esters of polypropylene glycol, esters of sorbitol, esters of sorbitan anhydrides, carboxylic acid copolymers, esters and ethers of glucose, ethoxylated ethers, ethoxylated alcohols, alkyl phosphates, polyoxyethylene fatty ether phosphates, fatty acid amides, acyl lactylates, soaps, TEA stearate, DEA oleth-3 phosphate, polyethylene glycol 20 sorbitan monolaurate (polysorbate 20), polyethylene glycol 5 soya sterol, steareth-2, steareth-20, steareth-21, ceteareth-20, PPG-2 methyl glucose ether distearate, ceteth-10, polysorbate 80, cetyl phosphate, potassium cetyl phosphate, diethanolamine cetyl phosphate, polysorbate 60, glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate, and mixtures thereof.
vi. Silicone Containing Compounds
In non-limiting aspects, silicone containing compounds include any member of a family of polymeric products whose molecular backbone is made up of alternating silicon and oxygen atoms with side groups attached to the silicon atoms. By varying the —Si—O— chain lengths, side groups, and crosslinking, silicones can be synthesized into a wide variety of materials. They can vary in consistency from liquid to gel to solids.
The silicone containing compounds that can be used in the context of the present invention include those described in this specification or those known to a person of ordinary skill in the art. Non-limiting examples include silicone oils (e.g., volatile and non-volatile oils), gels, and solids. In preferred aspects, the silicon containing compounds includes a silicone oils such as a polyorganosiloxane. Non-limiting examples of polyorganosiloxanes include dimethicone, cyclomethicone, polysilicone-11, phenyl trimethicone, trimethylsilylamodimethicone, stearoxytrimethylsilane, or mixtures of these and other organosiloxane materials in any given ratio in order to achieve the desired consistency and application characteristics depending upon the intended application (e.g., to a particular area such as the skin, hair, or eyes). A “volatile silicone oil” includes a silicone oil have a low heat of vaporization, i.e. normally less than about 50 cal per gram of silicone oil. Non-limiting examples of volatile silicone oils include: cyclomethicones such as Dow Corning 344 Fluid, Dow Corning 345 Fluid, Dow Corning 244 Fluid, and Dow Corning 245 Fluid, Volatile Silicon 7207 (Union Carbide Corp., Danbury, Conn.); low viscosity dimethicones, i.e. dimethicones having a viscosity of about 50 cst or less (e.g., dimethicones such as Dow Corning 200-0.5 cst Fluid). The Dow Corning Fluids are available from Dow Corning Corporation, Midland, Mich. Cyclomethicone and dimethicone are described in the Third Edition of the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary (incorporated by reference) as cyclic dimethyl polysiloxane compounds and a mixture of fully methylated linear siloxane polymers end-blocked with trimethylsiloxy units, respectively. Other non-limiting volatile silicone oils that can be used in the context of the present invention include those available from General Electric Co., Silicone Products Div., Waterford, N.Y. and SWS Silicones Div. of Stauffer Chemical Co., Adrian, Mich.
vii. Essential Oils
Essential oils include oils derived from herbs, flowers, trees, and other plants. Such oils are typically present as tiny droplets between the plant's cells, and can be extracted by several method known to those of skill in the art (e.g., steam distilled, enfleurage (i.e., extraction by using fat), maceration, solvent extraction, or mechanical pressing). When these types of oils are exposed to air they tend to evaporate (i.e., a volatile oil). As a result, many essential oils are colorless, but with age they can oxidize and become darker. Essential oils are insoluble in water and are soluble in alcohol, ether, fixed oils (vegetal), and other organic solvents. Typical physical characteristics found in essential oils include boiling points that vary from about 160° to 240° C. and densities ranging from about 0.759 to about 1.096.
Essential oils typically are named by the plant from which the oil is found. For example, rose oil or peppermint oil are derived from rose or peppermint plants, respectively. Non-limiting examples of essential oils that can be used in the context of the present invention include sesame oil, macadamia nut oil, tea tree oil, evening primrose oil, Spanish sage oil, Spanish rosemary oil, coriander oil, thyme oil, pimento berries oil, rose oil, anise oil, balsam oil, bergamot oil, rosewood oil, cedar oil, chamomile oil, sage oil, clary sage oil, clove oil, cypress oil, eucalyptus oil, fennel oil, sea fennel oil, frankincense oil, geranium oil, ginger oil, grapefruit oil, jasmine oil, juniper oil, lavender oil, lemon oil, lemongrass oil, lime oil, mandarin oil, marjoram oil, myrrh oil, neroli oil, orange oil, patchouli oil, pepper oil, black pepper oil, petitgrain oil, pine oil, rose otto oil, rosemary oil, sandalwood oil, spearmint oil, spikenard oil, vetiver oil, wintergreen oil, or ylang ylang. Other essential oils known to those of skill in the art are also contemplated as being useful within the context of the present invention.
viii. Thickening Agents
Thickening agents, including thickener or gelling agents, include substances that can increase the viscosity of a composition. Thickeners include those that can increase the viscosity of a composition without substantially modifying the efficacy of the active ingredient within the composition. Thickeners can also increase the stability of the compositions of the present invention.
Non-limiting examples of additional thickening agents that can be used in the context of the present invention include carboxylic acid polymers, crosslinked polyacrylate polymers, polyacrylamide polymers, polysaccharides, and gums. Examples of carboxylic acid polymers include crosslinked compounds containing one or more monomers derived from acrylic acid, substituted acrylic acids, and salts and esters of these acrylic acids and the substituted acrylic acids, wherein the crosslinking agent contains two or more carbon-carbon double bonds and is derived from a polyhydric alcohol (see U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,087,445; 4,509,949; 2,798,053; CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, Fourth edition, 1991, pp. 12 and 80). Examples of commercially available carboxylic acid polymers include carbomers, which are homopolymers of acrylic acid crosslinked with allyl ethers of sucrose or pentaerytritol (e.g., CarbopolTM 900 series from B. F. Goodrich).
Non-limiting examples of crosslinked polyacrylate polymers include cationic and nonionic polymers. Examples are described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,100,660; 4,849,484; 4,835,206; 4,628,078; 4,599,379).
Non-limiting examples of polyacrylamide polymers (including nonionic polyacrylamide polymers including substituted branched or unbranched polymers) include polyacrylamide, isoparaffin and laureth-7, multi-block copolymers of acrylamides and substituted acrylamides with acrylic acids and substituted acrylic acids.
Non-limiting examples of polysaccharides include cellulose, carboxymethyl hydroxyethylcellulose, cellulose acetate propionate carboxylate, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxyethyl ethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, methyl hydroxyethylcellulose, microcrystalline cellulose, sodium cellulose sulfate, and mixtures thereof. Another example is an alkyl substituted cellulose where the hydroxy groups of the cellulose polymer is hydroxyalkylated (preferably hydroxy ethylated or hydroxypropylated) to form a hydroxyalkylated cellulose which is then further modified with a C10-C30 straight chain or branched chain alkyl group through an ether linkage. Typically these polymers are ethers of C10-C30 straight or branched chain alcohols with hydroxyalkylcelluloses. Other useful polysaccharides include scleroglucans comprising a linear chain of (1-3) linked glucose units with a (1-6) linked glucose every three unit.
Non-limiting examples of gums that can be used with the present invention include acacia, agar, algin, alginic acid, ammonium alginate, amylopectin, calcium alginate, calcium carrageenan, carnitine, carrageenan, dextrin, gelatin, gellan gum, guar gum, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, hectorite, hyaluroinic acid, hydrated silica, hydroxypropyl chitosan, hydroxypropyl guar, karaya gum, kelp, locust bean gum, natto gum, potassium alginate, potassium carrageenan, propylene glycol alginate, sclerotium gum, sodium carboyxmethyl dextran, sodium carrageenan, tragacanth gum, xanthan gum, and mixtures thereof.
b. Pharmaceutical Ingredients
Pharmaceutical ingredients are also contemplated as being useful with the emulsion compositions of the present invention. Non-limiting examples of pharmaceutical ingredients include anti-acne agents, agents used to treat rosacea, analgesics, anesthetics, anorectals, antihistamines, anti-inflammatory agents including non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs, antibiotics, antifungals, antivirals, antimicrobials, anti-cancer actives, scabicides, pediculicides, antineoplastics, antiperspirants, antipruritics, antipsoriatic agents, antiseborrheic agents, biologically active proteins and peptides, burn treatment agents, cauterizing agents, depigmenting agents, depilatories, diaper rash treatment agents, enzymes, hair growth stimulants, hair growth retardants including DFMO and its salts and analogs, hemostatics, kerotolytics, canker sore treatment agents, cold sore treatment agents, dental and periodontal treatment agents, photosensitizing actives, skin protectant/barrier agents, steroids including hormones and corticosteroids, sunburn treatment agents, sunscreens, transdermal actives, nasal actives, vaginal actives, wart treatment agents, wound treatment agents, wound healing agents, etc.
C. Kits
Kits are also contemplated as being used in certain aspects of the present invention. For instance, a composition of the present invention can be included in a kit. A kit can include a container. Containers can include a bottle, a metal tube, a laminate tube, a plastic tube, a dispenser, a pressurized container, a barrier container, a package, a compartment, a lipstick container, a compact container, cosmetic pans that can hold cosmetic compositions, or other types of containers such as injection or blow-molded plastic containers into which the dispersions or compositions or desired bottles, dispensers, or packages are retained. The kit and/or container can include indicia on its surface. The indicia, for example, can be a word, a phrase, an abbreviation, a picture, or a symbol.
The containers can dispense a pre-determined amount of a composition. In other embodiments, the container can be squeezed (e.g., metal, laminate, or plastic tube) to dispense a desired amount of the composition. The composition can be dispensed as a spray, foam, an aerosol, a liquid, a fluid, or a semi-solid. The containers can have spray, pump, or squeeze mechanisms. A kit can also include instructions for using the kit and/or compositions. Instructions can include an explanation of how to apply, use, and maintain the compositions.
EXAMPLES
The following examples are included to demonstrate certain non-limiting aspects of the invention. It should be appreciated by those of skill in the art that the techniques disclosed in the examples which follow represent techniques discovered by the inventor to function well in the practice of the invention. However, those of skill in the art should, in light of the present disclosure, appreciate that many changes can be made in the specific embodiments which are disclosed and still obtain a like or similar result without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention.
Example 1
Materials and Methods for Obtaining Extracts
The extracts identified in Tables 1-3 were prepared from the whole plant. Each plant was individually obtained, ground, and dried, to produce a powder. The powder was treated according to the process described in FIG. 1. Each extract in Tables 1-3 was prepared by and provided to the inventors by Kunming Institute of Botany, Chinese Academy of Sciences, Yunnan, CHINA.
Example 2
Efficacy of Extracts
Each extract prepared according to the process described in Example 1 was subjected to a variety of assays to determine their skin efficacy. The following Tables 1-3 provide a summary of these data. A description of the assays used to obtain these data is provided below Table 3.















TABLE 1*






Anti Oxidant
Tyrosinase
Elastase
TNF-α
LO
COX
MMP 1
MMP 3


Extract**
Activity
Activity
Activity
Activity
Activity
Activity
Activity
Activity







Loropetalum chinensis
EFFECT
EFFECT
EFFECT
EFFECT






Trema angustifolia
EFFECT

EFFECT




EFFECT


Glochidion lanceolaris
EFFECT
EFFECT

EFFECT
EFFECT
EFFECT





*“EFFECT” means that the given extract had a measurable effect on the corresponding activity being assayed, which is indicative of beneficial results when applied to skin.


**These data suggest that a combination of such extracts can be used in a product to produce a multi-functional product. Alternatively, the extracts can be used individually, which still can result in a product having multiple benefits.





















TABLE 2*






Anti Oxidant
Tyrosinase
Elastase
TNF-α
LO
COX
MMP 1
MMP 3


Extract**
Activity
Activity
Activity
Activity
Activity
Activity
Activity
Activity







Loropetalum chinensis
EFFECT
EFFECT
EFFECT
EFFECT






Carqueja
EFFECT

EFFECT
EFFECT
EFFECT

EFFECT
EFFECT


Glochidion lanceolaris
EFFECT
EFFECT

EFFECT
EFFECT
EFFECT





*“EFFECT” means that the given extract had a measurable effect on the corresponding activity being assayed, which is indicative of beneficial results when applied to skin.


**These data suggest that a combination of such extracts can be used in a product to produce a multi-functional product. Alternatively, the extracts can be used individually, which still can result in a product having multiple benefits.





















TABLE 3*






Anti Oxidant
Tyrosinase
Elastase
TNF-α
LO
COX
MMP 1
MMP 3


Extract**
Activity
Activity
Activity
Activity
Activity
Activity
Activity
Activity







Ficus tikoua
EFFECT
EFFECT
EFFECT







Polygonum hydropiper
EFFECT

EFFECT
EFFECT


Pistacia chinensis
EFFECT

EFFECT
EFFECT


Zizyphus mauritiana
EFFECT
EFFECT

EFFECT


Garuga forrestii

EFFECT
EFFECT
EFFECT


Michelia figo
EFFECT

EFFECT
EFFECT


Populus davidiana
EFFECT

EFFECT


Sabina chinensis
EFFECT
EFFECT

EFFECT


Cuphea balsamona
EFFECT
EFFECT
EFFECT


Setaria palmifolia

EFFECT
EFFECT


Polygonum lapathifolium
EFFECT
EFFECT
EFFECT


Artemisia parviflora
EFFECT

EFFECT


Camptotheca acuminate

EFFECT


Washingtonia filifera
EFFECT
EFFECT
EFFECT


Machilus longipedicellata
EFFECT
EFFECT
EFFECT
EFFECT


Geranium nepalense
EFFECT
EFFECT
EFFECT


Ipomoea obscura
EFFECT

EFFECT
EFFECT


Cedrus deodara
EFFECT

EFFECT
EFFECT


Quercus aliena
EFFECT
EFFECT

EFFECT


Condurango
EFFECT


EFFECT



EFFECT


Catuaba
EFFECT


EFFECT

EFFECT
EFFECT
EFFECT


Carex baccans


EFFECT


Chrysalidocarpus lutescens
EFFECT

EFFECT
EFFECT


Gnaphalium pensylvanicum
EFFECT

EFFECT


Lonicera maackii


EFFECT
EFFECT


Tsoongiodendron odorum
EFFECT

EFFECT
EFFECT


Celtis sinensis
EFFECT

EFFECT
EFFECT


Cassia siamea
EFFECT

EFFECT


Catalpa yunnanesis
EFFECT


Potamogenton perforliatus
EFFECT

EFFECT


Cinnamomum japonicum
EFFECT

EFFECT
EFFECT





*“EFFECT” means that the given extract had a measurable effect on the corresponding activity being assayed, which is indicative of beneficial results when applied to skin.


**In addition to the extracts identified in Tables 1-2, these data suggest that any number of different combinations of such extracts can be used (including those in Tables 1-2) in a product to produce a multi-functional product. Alternatively, the extracts can be used individually, which still can result in a product having multiple benefits.






Antioxidant (AO) Assay:
An in vitro bioassay that measures the total anti-oxidant capacity of an extract. The assay relies on the ability of antioxidants in the sample to inhibit the oxidation of ABTS® (2,2′-azino-di-[3-ethylbenzthiazoline sulphonate]) to ABTS®.+ by metmyoglobin. The antioxidant system of living organisms includes enzymes such as superoxide dismutase, catalase, and glutathione peroxidase; macromolecules such as albumin, ceruloplasmin, and ferritin; and an array of small molecules, including ascorbic acid, α-tocopherol, β-carotene, reduced glutathione, uric acid, and bilirubin. The sum of endogenous and food-derived antioxidants represents the total antioxidant activity of the extracellular fluid. Cooperation of all the different antioxidants provides greater protection against attack by reactive oxygen or nitrogen radicals, than any single compound alone. Thus, the overall antioxidant capacity may give more relevant biological information compared to that obtained by the measurement of individual components, as it considers the cumulative effect of all antioxidants present in plasma and body fluids. The capacity of the antioxidants in the sample to prevent ABTS oxidation is compared with that of Trolox, a water-soluble tocopherol analogue, and is quantified as molar Trolox equivalents.
Anti-Oxidant capacity kit #709001 from Cayman Chemical (Ann Arbor, Mich. USA) was used as an in vitro bioassay to measure the total anti-oxidant capacity of each of the extracts identified in Tables 1-3. The protocol was followed according to manufacturer recommendations. The assay relied on antioxidants in the sample to inhibit the oxidation of ABTS® (2,2′-azino-di-[3-ethylbenzthiazoline sulphonate]) to ABTS®.+ by metmyoglobin. The capacity of the antioxidants in the sample to prevent ABTS oxidation was compared with that Trolox, a water-soluble tocopherol analogue, and was quantified as a molar Trolox equivalent.
Tyrosinase Activity Assay:
In mammalian cells, tyrosinase catalyzes two steps in the multi-step biosynthesis of melanin pigments from tyrosine (and from the polymerization of dopachrome). Tyrosinase is localized in melanocytes and produces melanin (aromatic quinone compounds) that imparts color to skin, hair, and eyes.
Purified mushroom tyrosinase (Sigma) was incubated with its substrate L-Dopa (Fisher) in the presence or absence of each of the extracts in Tables 1-3. Pigment formation was evaluated by colorimetric plate reading at 490 nm. The percent inhibition of mushroom tyrosinase activity was calculated compared to non-treated controls to determine the ability of test extracts to inhibit the activity of purified enzyme. Test extract inhibition was compared with that of kojic acid (Sigma).
Elastase Assay:
EnzChek® Elastase Assay (Kit# E-12056) from Molecular Probes (Eugene, Oreg. USA) was used as an in vitro enzyme inhibition assay for measuring inhibition of elastase activity for each of the extracts identified in Tables 1-3. The EnzChek kit contains soluble bovine neck ligament elastin that has been labeled with dye such that the conjugate's fluorescence is quenched. The non-fluorescent substrate can be digested by elastase or other proteases to yield highly fluorescent fragments. The resulting increase in fluorescence can be monitored with a fluorescence microplate reader. Digestion products from the elastin substrate have absorption maxima at  ̃505 nm and fluorescence emission maxima at  ̃515 nm. The peptide, chloromethyl ketone, is used as a selective, collective inhibitor of elastase when utilizing the EnzChek Elastase Assay Kit for screening for elastase inhibitors.
Tumor Necrosis Factor Alpha (TNF-α) Assay:
The prototype ligand of the TNF superfamily, TNF-α, is a pleiotropic cytokine that plays a central role in inflammation. Increase in its expression is associated with an up regulation in pro-inflammatory activity. This bioassay analyzes the effect of extracts on the production of TNF-α by human epidermal keratinocytes. The endpoint of this assay is a spectrophotometric measurement that reflects the presence of TNF-α and cellular viability. The assay employs the quantitative sandwich enzyme immunoassay technique whereby a monoclonal antibody specific for TNF-α has been pre-coated onto a microplate. Standards and samples are pipetted into the wells and any TNF-α present is bound by the immobilized antibody. After washing away any unbound substances, an enzyme-linked polyclonal antibody specific for TNF-α is added to the wells. Following a wash to remove any unbound antibody-enzyme reagent, a substrate solution is added to the wells and color develops in proportion to the amount of TNF-α bound in the initial step using a microplate reader for detection at 450 nm. The color development is stopped and the intensity of the color is measured.
Subconfluent normal human adult keratinocytes (Cascade Biologics) cultivated in EpiLife standard growth medium (Cascade Biologics) at 37° C. in 5% CO2, were treated with phorbol 12-myristate 13-acetate (PMA, 10 ng/ml, Sigma Chemical, #P1585-1MG) and each of the extracts identified in Tables 1-3 for 6 hours. PMA has been shown to cause a dramatic increase in TNF-α secretion which peaks at 6 hours after treatment. Following incubation, cell culture medium was collected and the amount of TNF-a secretion quantified using a sandwhich enzyme linked immuno-sorbant assay (ELISA) from R&D Systems (#DTA00C).
Lipoxygenase (LO) Assay:
An in vitro lipoxygenase (LO) inhibition assay. LOs are non-heme iron-containing dioxygenases that catalyze the addition of molecular oxygen to fatty acids. Linoleate and arachidonate are the main substrates for LOs in plants and animals. Arachadonic acid may then be converted to hydroxyeicosotrienenoic (HETE) acid derivatives, that are subsequently converted to leukotirenes, potent inflammatory mediators. This assay provides an accurate and convenient method for screening lipoxygenase inhibitors by measuring the hydroperoxides generated from the incubation of a lipoxygenase (5-, 12-, or 15-LO) with arachidonic acid.
The Colorimetric LO Inhibitor screening kit (#760700, Cayman Chemical) was used to determine the ability of each of the extracts identified in Tables 1-3 to inhibit enzyme activity. Purified 15-lipoxygenase and test extracts were mixed in assay buffer and incubated with shaking for 10 min at room temperature. Following incubation, arachidonic acid was added to initiate the reaction and mixtures incubated for an additional 10 min at room temperature. Colorimetric substrate was added to terminate catalysis and color progression was evaluated by fluorescence plate reading at 490 nm. The percent inhibition of lipoxyganse activity was calculated compared to non-treated controls to determine the ability of test extracts to inhibit the activity of purified enzyme.
Cyclooxygenase (COX) Assay:
An in vitro cyclooxygenase-1 and -2 (COX-1, -2) inhibition assay. COX is a bifunctional enzyme exhibiting both cyclooxygenase and peroxidase activities. The cyclooxygenase activity converts arachidonic acid to a hydroperoxy endoperoxide (Prostaglandin G2; PGG2) and the peroxidase component reduces the endoperoxide (Prostaglandin H2; PGH2) to the corresponding alcohol, the precursor of prostaglandins, thromboxanes, and prostacyclins. This COX Inhibitor screening assay measures the peroxidase component of cyclooxygenases. The peroxidase activity is assayed colorimetrically by monitoring the appearance of oxidized N,N,N′,N′-tetramethyl-p-phenylenediamine (TMPD). This inhibitor screening assay includes both COX-1 and COX-2 enzymes in order to screen isozyme-specific inhibitors.
The Colormetric COX (ovine) Inhibitor screening assay (#760111, Cayman Chemical), was used to analyze the effects of each of the extracts identified in Tables 1-3 on the activity of purified cyclooxygnase enzyme (COX-1 or COX-2). According to manufacturer instructions, purified enzyme, heme and test extracts were mixed in assay buffer and incubated with shaking for 15 min at room temperature. Following incubation, arachidonic acid and colorimetric substrate were added to initiate the reaction. Color progression was evaluated by colorimetric plate reading at 590 nm. The percent inhibition of COX-1 or COX-2 activity was calculated compared to non-treated controls to determine the ability of test extracts to inhibit the activity of purified enzyme.
Matrix Metalloproteinase Enzyme Activity (MMP1) Assay:
An in vitro matrix metalloprotease (MMP) inhibition assay. MMPs are extracellular proteases that play a role in many normal and disease states by virtue of their broad substrate specificity. MMP1 substrates include collagen IV. The Molecular Probes Enz/Chek Gelatinase/Collagenase Assay kit (#E12055) utilizes a fluorogenic gelatin substrate to detect MMP1 protease activity. Upon proteolytic cleavage, bright green fluorescence is revealed and may be monitored using a fluorescent microplate reader to measure enzymatic activity.
The Enz/Chek Gelatinase/Collagenase Assay kit (#E12055) from Invitrogen was used as an in vitro assay to measure MMP 1 enzymatic activity for each of the extracts identified in Tables 1-3. The assay relies upon the ability of purified MMP 1 enzyme to degrade a fluorogenic gelatin substrate. Once the substrate is specifically cleaved by MMP1 bright green fluorescence is revealed and may be monitored using a fluorescent microplate reader. Test materials are incubated in the presence or absence of the purified enzyme and substrate to determine their protease inhibitor capacity.
Matrix Metalloproteinase Enzyme Activity 3 (MMP3) Assay:
An in vitro matrix metalloprotease (MMP) inhibition assay was used for each of the extracts identified in Tables 1-3. MMPs are extracellular proteases that play a role in many normal and disease states by virtue of their broad substrate specificity. MMP3 substrates include collagens, fibronectins, and laminin. Using Colorimetric Drug Discovery kits from BioMol International for MMP3 (AK-400), this assay is designed to measure protease activity of MMPs using a thiopeptide as a chromogenic substrate (Ac-PLG-[2-mercapto-4-methyl-pentanoyl]-LG-OC2H5)5,6. The MMP cleavage site peptide bond is replaced by a thioester bond in the thiopeptide. Hydrolysis of this bond by an MMP produces a sulfhydryl group, which reacts with DTNB [5,5′-dithiobis(2-nitrobenzoic acid), Ellman's reagent] to form 2-nitro-5-thiobenzoic acid, which can be detected by its absorbance at 412 nm (ε=13,600 M-1 cm-1 at pH 6.0 and above 7).
Example 3
Testing Vehicles and Sample Compositions
Tables 4 and 5 describe generic skin testing formulations in which a skin active ingredient can be incorporated into to determine the types of skin benefits that can be attributed to the skin active ingredient. These formulations are prepared in such a manner that any resulting skin benefit from topical application of the formula to skin can be directly attributed to the skin active ingredient being tested. In the context of the present invention, the skin active ingredient that can be tested can be a Ficus tikoua extract, Polygonum hydropiper extract, Pistacia chinensis extract, Zizyphus mauritiana extract, Garuga forrestii extract, Michelia figo extract, Populus davidiana extract, Sabina chinensis extract, Cuphea balsamona extract, Setaria  palmifolia extract, Polygonum lapathifolium extract, Artemisia parviflora extract, Camptotheca acuminate extract, Washingtonia filifera extract, Machilus longipedicellata extract, Geranium nepalense extract, Ipomoea obscura extract, Cedrus deodara extract, Quercus aliena extract, Loropetalum chinensis extract, carqueja extract, condurango extract, catuaba extract, Carex baccans extract, Trema angustifolia extract, Chrysalidocarpus lutescens extract, Gnaphalium pensylvanicum extract, Lonicera maackii extract, Tsoongiodendron odorum extract, Celtis sinensis extract, Cassia siamea extract, Glochidion lanceolaris extract, Catalpa yunnanesis extract, Potamogenton perforliatus extract, or Cinnamomum japonicum extract, or any combination of these extracts. Any portion of the plant extract can be used for testing (e.g., root, stem, leaf, flower, flower bulb, bark, fruit, seed, sap, whole plant etc.). It should be recognized that other standard testing vehicles can also be used to determine the skin benefit properties of extracts obtained from the plant extracts and that the following formulations are non-limiting testing vehicles.










TABLE 4*







Ingredient
% Concentration (by weight)



















Phase A




Water
84.80



Xanthum gum
0.1



M-paraben
0.15



P-paraben
0.1



Citric acid
0.1



Phase B



Cetyl alcohol
4.0



Glyceryl stearate + PEG 100
4.0



Octyl palmitate
4.0



Dimethicone
1.0



Tocopheryl acetate
0.2



Phase C



Plant Extract**
2.0



TOTAL
100







*Procedure for making composition: Sprinkle Xanthum gum in water and mix for 10 min. Subsequently, add all ingredients in phase A and heat to 70-75° C.. Add all items in phase B to separate beaker and heat to 70-75° C.. Mix phases A and B at 70-75° C.. Continue mixing and allow composition to cool to 30° C.. Subsequently, add phase C ingredient while mixing.



**The plant extracts identified throughout this specification can be incorporated into this testing formulation as the skin active ingredient. The extracts can be individually used or combined in this testing vehicle. The concentration ranges of the extract (or combination of extracts) can be modified as desired or needed by increasing or decreasing the amount of water. In particular embodiments, the extracts can be selected from the group consisting of: Camptotheca acuminate extract; Loropetalum chinensis extract; Chrysalidocarpus lutscens extract; and Potamogenton perforliatus extract; and any combination thereof, or all thereof. In another particular aspect, the extracts can be selected from Loropetalum chinensis, Trema angustifolia and/or Glochidion lanceolaris, and any combination thereof, or all thereof. Any portion of the plant can be used to create the skin-active extract (e.g., root, stem, leaf, flower, flower bulb, bark, fruit, seed, seed pod, sap, whole plant etc.).
















TABLE 5*







Ingredient
% Concentration (by weight)



















Phase A




Water
78.6



M-paraben
0.2



P-paraben
0.1



Na2 EDTA
0.1



Shea butter
4.5



Petrolatum
4.5



Glycerin
4.0



Propylene Glycol
2.0



Finsolve TN
2.0



Phase B



Sepigel 305
2.0



Phase C



Plant Extract**
2.0



TOTAL
100







*Add ingredients in phase A to beaker and heat to 70-75° C. while mixing. Subsequently, add the phase B ingredient with phase A and cool to 30° C. with mixing. Subsequently, add phase C ingredient while mixing.



**The plant extracts identified throughout this specification can be incorporated into this testing formulation as the skin active ingredient. The extracts can be individually used or combined in this testing vehicle. The concentration ranges of the extract (or combination of extracts) can be modified as desired or needed by increasing or decreasing the amount of water. In particular embodiments, the extracts can be selected from the group consisting of: Camptotheca acuminate extract; Loropetalum chinensis extract; Chrysalidocarpus lutscens extract; and Potamogenton perforliatus extract; and any combination thereof, or all thereof. In another particular aspect, the extracts can be selected from Loropetalum chinensis, Trema angustifolia and/or Glochidion lanceolaris, and any combination thereof, or all thereof. Any portion of the plant can be used to create the skin-active extract (e.g., root, stem, leaf, flower, flower bulb, bark, fruit, seed, seed pod, sap, whole plant etc.).






The formulations represented in Table 6-11 are non-limiting examples of the types of formulations that can be prepared in the context of the present invention. Any standard method can be used to prepare such formulations. For instance, simple mixing of the ingredients in a beaker can be used. One should mix such ingredients and add heat as necessary to obtain a homogenous composition.
Table 6 includes a non-limiting example of a composition of the present invention. The composition can be formulated into an emulsion (e.g., o/w, w/o, o/w/o, w/o/w, etc.) and the additional ingredients identified throughout the specification can be included into the Table 4 composition (e.g., by adjusting the water content of composition). Further, the concentration ranges of the ingredients identified in Table 6 can vary depending on a desired formulation (e.g., cream, lotion, moisturizer cleanser, etc.).










TABLE 6







Ingredient
% Concentration (by weight)









Water
q.s.



Plant Extract*
  0.1% to 10%



Glycerin
   3 to 40%



Butylene glycol
0.0001 to 10%



Propylene glycol
0.0001 to 10%



Phenoxyethanol
0.0001 to 10%



Disodium EDTA
0.0001 to 10%



Steareth-20
0.0001 to 10%



Chlorhexidine Diglunonate
0.0001 to 10%



Potasium Sorbate
0.0001 to 10%



Preservative**
0.0001 to 2% 



TOTAL
100







*The plant extracts identified throughout this specification can be incorporated into this testing formulation as the skin active ingredient. The extracts can be individually used or combined in this testing vehicle. The concentration ranges of the extract (or combination of extracts) can be modified as desired or needed by increasing or decreasing the amount of water. In particular embodiments, the extracts can be selected from the group consisting of: Camptotheca acuminate extract; Loropetalum chinensis extract; Chrysalidocarpus lutscens extract; and Potamogenton perforliatus extract; and any combination thereof, or all thereof. In another particular aspect, the extracts can be selected from Loropetalum chinensis, Trema angustifolia and/or Glochidion lanceolaris, and any combination thereof, or all thereof. Any portion of the plant can be used to create the skin-active extract (e.g., root, stem, leaf, flower, flower bulb, bark, fruit, seed, seed pod, sap, whole plant etc.).



**Any preservative can be used identified in the specification or those known in the art.






Table 7 includes a non-limiting example of a composition of the present invention. The composition can be formulated into an emulsion (e.g., o/w, w/o, o/w/o, w/o/w, etc.) and the additional ingredients identified throughout the specification can be included into the Table 7 composition (e.g., by adjusting the water content of composition). Further, the concentration ranges of the ingredients identified in Table 7 can vary depending on a desired formulation (e.g., cream, lotion, moisturizer cleanser, etc.).










TABLE 7







Ingredient
% Concentration (by weight)









Water
q.s.



Plant Extract*
  0.1% to 10%



Dimethicone
0.0001 to 10%



Triethanolamine
0.0001 to 10%



Phenonip
0.0001 to 10%



Betaine
0.0001 to 10%



Disodium EDTA
0.0001 to 10%



Tocopheryl acetate
0.0001 to 10%



Prodew 400
0.0001 to 10%



Preservative**
0.0001 to 2% 



TOTAL
100







*The plant extracts identified throughout this specification can be incorporated into this testing formulation as the skin active ingredient. The extracts can be individually used or combined in this testing vehicle. The concentration ranges of the extract (or combination of extracts) can be modified as desired or needed by increasing or decreasing the amount of water. In particular embodiments, the extracts can be selected from the group consisting of: Camptotheca acuminate extract; Loropetalum chinensis extract; Chrysalidocarpus lutscens extract; and Potamogenton perforliatus extract; and any combination thereof, or all thereof. In another particular aspect, the extracts can be selected from Loropetalum chinensis, Trema angustifolia and/or Glochidion lanceolaris, and any combination thereof, or all thereof. Any portion of the plant can be used to create the skin-active extract (e.g., root, stem, leaf, flower, flower bulb, bark, fruit, seed, seed pod, sap, whole plant etc.).



**Any preservative can be used identified in the specification or those known in the art.






Table 8 includes a non-limiting example of a composition of the present invention. The composition can be formulated into an emulsion (e.g., o/w, w/o, o/w/o, w/o/w, etc.) and the additional ingredients identified throughout the specification can be included into the Table 8 composition (e.g., by adjusting the water content of composition). Further, the concentration ranges of the ingredients identified in Table 8 can vary depending on a desired formulation (e.g., cream, lotion, moisturizer cleanser, etc.). In particular embodiments, the Table 8 composition can be a moisturizer.










TABLE 8







Ingredient
% Concentration (by weight)









Water
q.s.



Plant Extract*
  0.1% to 10%



Glycerin
0.0001 to 10%



Pentylene Glycol
0.0001 to 10%



Capryl Glycol
0.0001 to 10%



Disodium EDTA
0.0001 to 10%



Capric/Caprylic Triglyceride
0.0001 to 10%



Lipex 205 (Shea Butter)
0.0001 to 10%



Squalane
0.0001 to 10%



Cetyl Alcohol
0.0001 to 10%



Dimethicone
0.0001 to 10%



Ceramide II
0.0001 to 10%



Stearic Acid
0.0001 to 10%



Super Sterol Ester
0.0001 to 10%



Arlacel 165
0.0001 to 10%



Simulgel 600
0.0001 to 10%



TOTAL
100







*The plant extracts identified throughout this specification can be incorporated into this testing formulation as the skin active ingredient. The extracts can be individually used or combined in this testing vehicle. The concentration ranges of the extract (or combination of extracts) can be modified as desired or needed by increasing or decreasing the amount of water. In particular embodiments, the extracts can be selected from the group consisting of: Camptotheca acuminate extract; Loropetalum chinensis extract; Chrysalidocarpus lutscens extract; and Potamogenton perforliatus extract; and any combination thereof, or all thereof. In another particular aspect, the extracts can be selected from Loropetalum chinensis, Trema angustifolia and/or Glochidion lanceolaris, and any combination thereof, or all thereof. Any portion of the plant can be used to create the skin-active extract (e.g., root, stem, leaf, flower, flower bulb, bark, fruit, seed, seed pod, sap, whole plant etc.).






Table 9 includes a non-limiting example of a composition of the present invention. The composition can be formulated into an emulsion (e.g., o/w, w/o, o/w/o, w/o/w, etc.) and the additional ingredients identified throughout the specification can be included into the Table 9 composition (e.g., by adjusting the water content of composition). Further, the concentration ranges of the ingredients identified in Table 9 can vary depending on a desired formulation (e.g., cream, lotion, moisturizer cleanser, etc.). In particular embodiments, the Table 9 composition can be a moisturizer.










TABLE 9







Ingredient
% Concentration (by weight)









Water
q.s.



Plant Extract*
  0.1% to 10%



Glycerin
0.0001 to 10%



Pentylene Glycol
0.0001 to 10%



Capryl Glycol
0.0001 to 10%



Disodium EDTA
0.0001 to 10%



Petrolatum
0.0001 to 10%



Squalane
0.0001 to 10%



Cetyl Alcohol
0.0001 to 10%



Arlacel 165
0.0001 to 10%



Dimethicone
0.0001 to 10%



Simulgel 600
0.0001 to 10%



TOTAL
100







*The plant extracts identified throughout this specification can be incorporated into this testing formulation as the skin active ingredient. The extracts can be individually used or combined in this testing vehicle. The concentration ranges of the extract (or combination of extracts) can be modified as desired or needed by increasing or decreasing the amount of water. In particular embodiments, the extracts can be selected from the group consisting of: Camptotheca acuminate extract; Loropetalum chinensis extract; Chrysalidocarpus lutscens extract; and Potamogenton perforliatus extract; and any combination thereof, or all thereof. In another particular aspect, the extracts can be selected from Loropetalum chinensis, Trema angustifolia and/or Glochidion lanceolaris, and any combination thereof, or all thereof. Any portion of the plant can be used to create the skin-active extract (e.g., root, stem, leaf, flower, flower bulb, bark, fruit, seed, seed pod, sap, whole plant etc.).






Table 10 includes a non-limiting example of a composition of the present invention. The composition can be formulated into an emulsion (e.g., o/w, w/o, o/w/o, w/o/w, etc.) and the additional ingredients identified throughout the specification can be included into the Table 10 composition (e.g., by adjusting the water content of composition). Further, the concentration ranges of the ingredients identified in Table 10 can vary depending on a desired formulation (e.g., cream, lotion, moisturizer cleanser, etc.). In particular embodiments, the Table 10 composition can be a sunscreen lotion.










TABLE 10







Ingredient
% Concentration (by weight)









Water
q.s.



Plant Extract*
  0.1% to 10%



Xanthan Gum
0.0001 to 10%



Disodium EDTA
0.0001 to 10%



Pentylene Glycol
0.0001 to 10%



Capryl Glycol
0.0001 to 10%



Pemulen TR-1
0.0001 to 10%



Triethanolamine
0.0001 to 10%



PVP/Hexadecene Copolymer
0.0001 to 10%



Finsolv TN
   10 to 30%



Sorbitan Isostearate
0.0001 to 10%



Sunscreen Ingredient**
   2 to 25%



TOTAL
100







*The plant extracts identified throughout this specification can be incorporated into this testing formulation as the skin active ingredient. The extracts can be individually used or combined in this testing vehicle. The concentration ranges of the extract (or combination of extracts) can be modified as desired or needed by increasing or decreasing the amount of water. In particular embodiments, the extracts can be selected from the group consisting of: Camptotheca acuminate extract; Loropetalum chinensis extract; Chrysalidocarpus lutscens extract; and Potamogenton perforliatus extract; and any combination thereof, or all thereof. In another particular aspect, the extracts can be selected from Loropetalum chinensis, Trema angustifolia and/or Glochidion lanceolaris, and any combination thereof, or all thereof. Any portion of the plant can be used to create the skin-active extract (e.g., root, stem, leaf, flower, flower bulb, bark, fruit, seed, seed pod, sap, whole plant etc.).



**Sunscreen ingredient can be any sunscreen ingredient, or combination of such ingredients, identified in the specification or known to those of ordinary skill in the art. In one embodiment, the sunscreen ingredient is a combination of zinc oxide and titanium dioxide.






Table 11 includes a non-limiting example of a composition of the present invention. The additional ingredients identified throughout the specification can be included into the Table 11 composition (e.g., by adjusting the water content of composition). Further, the concentration ranges of the ingredients identified in Table 11 can vary depending on a desired formulation (e.g., cream, lotion, moisturizer cleanser, etc.). In particular embodiments, the Table 11 composition can be a cleanser.










TABLE 11







Ingredient
% Concentration (by weight)









Water
q.s.



Plant Extract*
  0.1% to 10%



Disodium EDTA
0.0001 to 10%



Citric Acid
0.0001 to 10%



Pentylene Glycol
0.0001 to 10%



Capryl Glycol
0.0001 to 10%



sodium methyl cocoyl taurate
   10 to 30%



sodium cocoamphodiacetate
   1 to 10%



TOTAL
100







*The plant extracts identified throughout this specification can be incorporated into this testing formulation as the skin active ingredient. The extracts can be individually used or combined in this testing vehicle. The concentration ranges of the extract (or combination of extracts) can be modified as desired or needed by increasing or decreasing the amount of water. In particular embodiments, the extracts can be selected from the group consisting of: Camptotheca acuminate extract; Loropetalum chinensis extract; Chrysalidocarpus lutscens extract; and Potamogenton perforliatus extract; and any combination thereof, or all thereof. In another particular aspect, the extracts can be selected from Loropetalum chinensis, Trema angustifolia and/or Glochidion lanceolaris, and any combination thereof, or all thereof. Any portion of the plant can be used to create the skin-active extract (e.g., root, stem, leaf, flower, flower bulb, bark, fruit, seed, seed pod, sap, whole plant etc.).






Example 4
Assays that can be Used to Test Compositions
The efficacy of compositions comprising the plant extracts identified throughout the specification, or a combination of such extracts (including, for example, the formulations identified in Tables 4-11), can be determined by methods known to those of ordinary skill in the art. The following are non-limiting assays that can be used in the context of the present invention. It should be recognized that other testing procedures can be used, including, for example, objective and subjective procedures.
Erythema Assay:
An assay to measure the reduction of skin redness can be evaluated using a Minolta Chromometer. Skin erythema may be induced by applying a 0.2% solution of sodium dodecyl sulfate on the forearm of a subject. The area is protected by an occlusive patch for 24 hrs. After 24 hrs, the patch is removed and the irritation-induced redness can be assessed using the a* values of the Minolta Chroma Meter. The a* value measures changes in skin color in the red region. Immediately after reading, the area is treated with a formula containing any one, or any combination thereof, of the extracts identified throughout the specification. In particular aspects, the extract can be a Camptotheca acuminate extract, a Loropetalum chinensis extract, a Chrysalidocarpus lutscens extract, or a Potamogenton  perforliatus extract, or any combination thereof. Repeat measurements are taken at regular intervals to determine the formula's ability to reduce redness, inflammation, or skin irritation.
Skin Moisture/Hydration Assay:
Skin moisture/hydration benefits can be measured by using impedance measurements with the Nova Dermal Phase Meter. The impedance meter measures changes in skin moisture content. The outer layer of the skin has distinct electrical properties. When skin is dry it conducts electricity very poorly. As it becomes more hydrated increasing conductivity results. Consequently, changes in skin impedance (related to conductivity) can be used to assess changes in skin hydration. The unit can be calibrated according to instrument instructions for each testing day. A notation of temperature and relative humidity can also be made. Subjects can be evaluated as follows: prior to measurement they can equilibrate in a room with defined humidity (e.g., 30-50%) and temperature (e.g., 68-72° C.). Three separate impedance readings can be taken on each side of the face, recorded, and averaged. The T5 setting can be used on the impedance meter which averages the impedance values of every five seconds application to the face. Changes can be reported with statistical variance and significance.
Skin Clarity and Reduction in Freckles and Age Spots Assay:
Skin clarity and the reduction in freckles and age spots can be evaluated using a Minolta Chromometer. Changes in skin color can be assessed to determine irritation potential due to product treatment using the a* values of the Minolta Chroma Meter. The a* value measures changes in skin color in the red region. This is used to determine whether a composition is inducing irritation. The measurements can be made on each side of the face and averaged, as left and right facial values. Skin clarity can also be measured using the Minolta Meter. The measurement is a combination of the a*, b, and L values of the Minolta Meter and is related to skin brightness, and correlates well with skin smoothness and hydration. Skin reading is taken as above. In one non-limiting aspect, skin clarity can be described as L/C where C is chroma and is defined as (a2+b2)1/2.
Skin Dryness, Surface Fine Lines, Skin Smoothness, and Skin Tone Assay:
Skin dryness, surface fine lines, skin smoothness, and skin tone can be evaluated with clinical grading techniques. For example, clinical grading of skin dryness can be determined by a five point standard Kligman Scale: (0) skin is soft and moist; (1) skin appears normal with no visible dryness; (2) skin feels slightly dry to the touch with no visible flaking; (3) skin feels dry, tough, and has a whitish appearance with some scaling; and (4) skin feels very dry, rough, and has a whitish appearance with scaling. Evaluations can be made independently by two clinicians and averaged.
Clinical Grading of Skin Tone Assay:
Clinical grading of skin tone can be performed via a ten point analog numerical scale: (10) even skin of uniform, pinkish brown color. No dark, erythremic, or scaly patches upon examination with a hand held magnifying lens. Microtexture of the skin very uniform upon touch; (7) even skin tone observed without magnification. No scaly areas, but slight discolorations either due to pigmentation or erythema. No discolorations more than 1 cm in diameter; (4) both skin discoloration and uneven texture easily noticeable. Slight scaliness. Skin rough to the touch in some areas; and (1) uneven skin coloration and texture. Numerous areas of scaliness and discoloration, either hypopigmented, erythremic or dark spots. Large areas of uneven color more than 1 cm in diameter. Evaluations were made independently by two clinicians and averaged.
Clinical Grading of Skin Smoothness Assay:
Clinical grading of skin smoothness can be analyzed via a ten point analog numerical scale: (10) smooth, skin is moist and glistening, no resistance upon dragging finger across surface; (7) somewhat smooth, slight resistance; (4) rough, visibly altered, friction upon rubbing; and (1) rough, flaky, uneven surface. Evaluations were made independently by two clinicians and averaged.
Skin Smoothness and Wrinkle Reduction Assay with Methods Disclosed in Packman et al. (1978):
Skin smoothness and wrinkle reduction can also be assessed visually by using the methods disclosed in Packman et al. (1978). For example, at each subject visit, the depth, shallowness and the total number of superficial facial lines (SFLs) of each subject can be carefully scored and recorded. A numerical score was obtained by multiplying a number factor times a depth/width/length factor. Scores are obtained for the eye area and mouth area (left and right sides) and added together as the total wrinkle score.
Skin Firmness Assay with a Hargens Ballistometer:
Skin firmness can be measured using a Hargens ballistometer, a device that evaluates the elasticity and firmness of the skin by dropping a small body onto the skin and recording its first two rebound peaks. The ballistometry is a small lightweight probe with a relatively blunt tip (4 square mm-contact area) was used. The probe penetrates slightly into the skin and results in measurements that are dependent upon the properties of the outer layers of the skin, including the stratum corneum and outer epidermis and some of the dermal layers.
Skin Softness/Suppleness Assay with a Gas Bearing Electrodynamometer:
Skin softness/suppleness can be evaluated using the Gas Bearing Electrodynamometer, an instrument that measures the stress/strain properties of the skin. The viscoelastic properties of skin correlate with skin moisturization. Measurements can be obtained on the predetermined site on the cheek area by attaching the probe to the skin surface with double-stick tape. A force of approximately 3.5 gm can be applied parallel to the skin surface and the skin displacement is accurately measured. Skin suppleness can then be calculated and is expressed as DSR (Dynamic Spring Rate in gm/mm).
Appearance of Lines and Wrinkles Assay with Replicas:
The appearance of lines and wrinkles on the skin can be evaluated using replicas, which is the impression of the skin's surface. Silicone rubber like material can be used. The replica can be analyzed by image analysis. Changes in the visibility of lines and wrinkles can be objectively quantified via the taking of silicon replicas form the subjects' face and analyzing the replicas image using a computer image analysis system. Replicas can be taken from the eye area and the neck area, and photographed with a digital camera using a low angle incidence lighting. The digital images can be analyzed with an image processing program and the are of the replicas covered by wrinkles or fine lines was determined.
Surface Contour of the Skin Assay with a Profilometer/Stylus Method:
The surface contour of the skin can be measured by using the profilometer/Stylus method. This includes either shining a light or dragging a stylus across the replica surface. The vertical displacement of the stylus can be fed into a computer via a distance transducer, and after scanning a fixed length of replica a cross-sectional analysis of skin profile can be generated as a two-dimensional curve. This scan can be repeated any number of times along a fix axis to generate a simulated 3-D picture of the skin. Ten random sections of the replicas using the stylus technique can be obtained and combined to generate average values. The values of interest include Ra which is the arithmetic mean of all roughness (height) values computed by integrating the profile height relative to the mean profile height. Rt which is the maximum vertical distance between the highest peak and lowest trough, and Rz which is the mean peak amplitude minus the mean peak height. Values are given as a calibrated value in mm. Equipment should be standardized prior to each use by scanning metal standards of know values. Ra Value can be computed by the following equation: Ra=Standardize roughness; lm=the traverse (scan) length; and y=the absolute value of the location of the profile relative to the mean profile height (x-axis).
MELANODERMTM Assay:
In other non-limiting aspects, the efficacy of the compositions of the present invention can be evaluated by using a skin analog, such as, for example, MELANODERMTM. Melanocytes, one of the cells in the skin analog, stain positively when exposed to L-dihydroxyphenyl alanine (L-DOPA), a precursor of melanin. The skin analog, MELANODERMTM, can be treated with a variety of bases containing the compositions and whitening agents of the present invention or with the base alone as a control. Alternatively, an untreated sample of the skin analog can be used as a control.
ORAC Assay:
Oxygen Radical Absorption (or Absorbance) Capacity (ORAC) of the aromatic skin-active ingredients and compositions can also be assayed by measuring the antioxidant activity of such ingredients or compositions. This assay can quantify the degree and length of time it takes to inhibit the action of an oxidizing agent such as oxygen radicals that are known to cause damage cells (e.g., skin cells). The ORAC value of the aromatic skin-active ingredients and compositions can be determined by methods known to those of ordinary skill in the art (see U.S. Publication Nos. 2004/0109905 and 2005/0163880; Cao et al. (1993)), all of which are incorporated by reference). In summary, the assay described in Cao et al. (1993) measures the ability of antioxidant compounds in test materials to inhibit the decline of B-phycoerythrm (B-PE) fluorescence that is induced by a peroxyl radical generator, AAPH.
Matrix Metalloproteinase Enzyme Activity (MMP3; MMP9) Assay:
An in vitro matrix metalloprotease (MMP) inhibition assay. MMPs are extracellular proteases that play a role in many normal and disease states by virtue of their broad substrate specificity. MMP3 substrates include collagens, fibronectins, and laminin; while MMP9 substrates include collagen VII, fibronectins and laminin. Using Colorimetric Drug Discovery kits from BioMol International for MMP3 (AK-400) and MMP-9 (AK-410), this assay is designed to measure protease activity of MMPs using a thiopeptide as a chromogenic substrate (Ac-PLG-[2-mercapto-4-methyl-pentanoyl]-LG-OC2H5)5,6. The MMP cleavage site peptide bond is replaced by a thioester bond in the thiopeptide. Hydrolysis of this bond by an MMP produces a sulfhydryl group, which reacts with DTNB [5,5′-dithiobis(2-nitrobenzoic acid), Ellman's reagent] to form 2-nitro-5-thiobenzoic acid, which can be detected by its absorbance at 412 nm (ε=13,600 M-1 cm-1 at pH 6.0 and above 7).
All of the skin-active ingredients, compositions, or methods disclosed and claimed in this specification can be made and executed without undue experimentation in light of the present disclosure. While the skin-active ingredients, compositions, or methods of this invention have been described in terms of particular embodiments, it will be apparent to those of skill in the art that variations may be applied to the skin-active ingredients, compositions, or methods and in the steps or in the sequence of steps of the method described herein without departing from the concept, spirit and scope of the invention.
REFERENCES
The following references, to the extent that they provide exemplary procedural or other details supplementary to those set forth herein, are specifically incorporated herein by reference.

    U.S. Pat. No. 2,798,053
    U.S. Pat. No. 3,755,560
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    U.S. Pat. No. 6,203,802
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    U.S. Patent Publn. 2004/0109905
    U.S. Patent Publn. 2005/0163880
    Cao et al., Free Radic. Biol. Med., 14:303-311, 1993.
    CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, 12th Ed., 2008.
    CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, 4th Ed., pp 12 and 80, 1991.
    Kreuter, J. Microencapsulation, 5:115-127, 1988.
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    Packman and Gams, J. Soc. Cos. Chem., 29:70-90, 1978.

## Claims

1. A method of reducing TNF-α or elastase activity in the skin of a subject in need thereof comprising topically applying to the skin of said subject a composition comprising effective amounts of:
a. an extract from the whole plant of Lonicera maackii; and
b. an extract from the whole plant of Polygonum hydropiper, 

wherein topical application of the composition to the skin reduces TNF-α or elastase activity in the skin.

2. The method of claim 1, wherein the skin in need of treatment is erythemic skin.

3. The method of claim 1, wherein the skin in need of treatment is dry, flaky, or itchy skin.

4. The method of claim 1, wherein the composition is a lotion, cream, or gel.

5. The method of claim 1, wherein the composition is an emulsion.

6. The method of claim 1, wherein the Lonicera maackii and Polygonum  hydropiper extracts are aqueous extracts.

7. The method of claim 1, wherein the composition, comprises from 0.01% to 20% by weight of Lonicera maackii extract and 0.01% to 20% by weight of Polygonum  hydropiper extract.

8. The method of claim 1, wherein the composition further reduces oxidation in the skin cell.

9. The method of claim 1, wherein the skin in need of treatment is skin having a fine line or wrinkle.

10. A method of treating erythemic skin, dry skin, flaky skin, or itchy skin or treating a fine line or wrinkle in a subject in need thereof comprising topically applying to the skin of said subject a composition comprising effective amounts of:
a. an extract from the whole plant of Lonicera maackii; and
b. an extract from the whole plant of Polygonum hydropiper, 

wherein topical application of the composition treats the skin.

11. The method of claim 10, wherein the composition is applied to erythemic skin, dry skin, flack skin, or itchy skin.

12. The method of claim 10, wherein the composition is applied to a fine line or wrinkle.