# C_2018095EN.01002701.xml

| 13.3.2018 | EN | Official Journal of the European Union | C 95/27 |
| --- | --- | --- | --- |

13.3.2018

EN

Official Journal of the European Union

C 95/27

---

Publication of an amendment application pursuant to Article 50(2)(a) of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 of the European Parliament and of the Council on quality schemes for agricultural products and foodstuffs

(2018/C 95/14)

This publication confers the right to oppose the application pursuant to Article 51 of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 of the European Parliament and of the Council (1).

1

APPLICATION FOR APPROVAL OF NON-MINOR AMENDMENTS TO THE PRODUCT SPECIFICATION FOR A PROTECTED DESIGNATION OF ORIGIN OR PROTECTED GEOGRAPHICAL INDICATION

Application for approval of amendments in accordance with the first subparagraph of Article 53(2) of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012

Application for approval of amendments in accordance with the first subparagraph of Article 53(2) of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012

‘BRIOCHE VENDÉENNE’

BRIOCHE VENDÉENNE

EU No: PGI-FR-02294 — 24.2.2017

EU No: PGI-FR-02294 — 24.2.2017

PDO ( ) PGI ( X )

PDO ( ) PGI ( X )

1.   Applicant group and legitimate interest

Applicant group and legitimate interest

| Vendée Qualité |
| --- |
| Maison de l'Agriculture |
| 21, boulevard Réaumur |
| 85013 La Roche-sur-Yon Cedex |
| FRANCE |
| Tel. +33 251368251 |
| Fax +33 251368454 |
| Email: contact@vendeequalite.fr |

Vendée Qualité

Maison de l'Agriculture

21, boulevard Réaumur

85013 La Roche-sur-Yon Cedex

FRANCE

Tel. +33 251368251

Fax +33 251368454

Email: contact@vendeequalite.fr

Composition

The association comprises all operators in the ‘Brioche vendéenne’ PGI sector (traditional bakers, distributor-manufacturers and small-scale manufacturers with a production line, industrial manufacturers, millers and egg processors). The association therefore has a legitimate right to request amendments to the product specification.

2.   Member State or Third Country

Member State or Third Country

France

3.   Heading in the product specification affected by the amendment(s)

Heading in the product specification affected by the amendment(s)

| — | ☐ | Name of product |
| --- | --- | --- |
| — | ☒ | Description of product |
| — | ☐ | Geographical area |
| — | ☒ | Proof of origin |
| — | ☒ | Method of production |
| — | ☒ | Link |
| — | ☒ | Labelling |
| — | ☒ | Other: Updated contact details, geographical area, inspection body, national requirements, annexes |

—

☐

Name of product

—

☒

Description of product

—

☐

Geographical area

—

☒

Proof of origin

—

☒

Method of production

—

☒

Link

—

☒

Labelling

—

☒

Other: Updated contact details, geographical area, inspection body, national requirements, annexes

4.   Type of amendment(s)

Type of amendment(s)

| — | ☒ | Amendments to the product specification of a registered PDO or PGI not to be qualified as minor within the meaning of the third subparagraph of Article 53(2) of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 |
| --- | --- | --- |
| — | ☐ | Amendments to the product specification of a registered PDO or PGI for which a Single Document (or equivalent) has not been published and which cannot be qualified as minor within the meaning of the third subparagraph of Article 53(2) of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 |

—

☒

Amendments to the product specification of a registered PDO or PGI not to be qualified as minor within the meaning of the third subparagraph of Article 53(2) of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012

—

☐

Amendments to the product specification of a registered PDO or PGI for which a Single Document (or equivalent) has not been published and which cannot be qualified as minor within the meaning of the third subparagraph of Article 53(2) of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012

5.   Amendment(s)

Amendment(s)

5.1.   
  Heading ‘Product description’

Heading ‘Product description’

Stylistic changes have been made to this section largely to eliminate repetition.

Furthermore, the paragraph:

‘Taste: matches its aroma, i.e. deriving predominantly from use of eau-de-vie or a mixture of eau-de-vie and flavouring (orange blossom or vanilla), combined with a secondary taste of butter.’

is replaced by:

‘taste dominated by an aroma deriving from use of eau-de-vie and sometimes another flavouring (orange blossom and/or vanilla), combined with a secondary taste of butter.’

In the sentences about aromas, the word ‘or’ is replaced by the words ‘and/or’: ‘orange blossom and/or vanilla’, ‘of vanilla and/or orange blossom’.

The possibility of combining two other flavourings in the same preparation is now explicitly stated. This corresponds to what is actually done by operators as they interpret the word ‘or’ as being able to mean ‘and’.

These changes have no impact on the product or the causal link.

5.2.   
  Heading ‘Proof of origin’

Heading ‘Proof of origin’

The following paragraph is added:

‘The dough intended for freezing is wrapped and labelled before it is frozen. Where dough is frozen, this is entered on the production record.’

This addition was necessary as justification regarding the traceability of frozen dough which is authorised in the amended specification (see point 5.3 below regarding the method of production).

Stylistic changes have also been made to this section (repetition eliminated, distinction made between operator recognition and the keeping of records and documents on traceability, paragraph moved, etc.) in order to make the wording clearer.

The aspects proving the origin of the product are not called into question.

5.3.   
  Heading ‘Method of production’

Heading ‘Method of production’

Raw materials (table of characteristics)

Raw materials (table of characteristics)

—   Flour

The words: ‘Bread-making-quality wheat flour of type 55 or 45, at 45 to 55 %’

are replaced by:

‘42 to 52 %

Bread-making-quality wheat flour of type 65, 55 or 45’.

The specification currently in force allows two types of wheat flour to be used (type 45 and type 55). The amended specification adds a new type of wheat flour (type 65).

Richer in bran, type 65 flour is commonly used to make pastries such as ‘Brioche vendéenne’ PGI. This is a technological response to the lower protein content in current wheat varieties, made possible by progress in milling. The inclusion of this new type of flour does not change the organoleptic or technological characteristics such as the colour, the taste of the flour or the proper rising of the dough.

The current specification stipulates a percentage of flour of between 45 % and 55 % of the weight of the dough. The change reduces this percentage to a level of between 42 % and 52 %.

The better absorption rate of present-day flour, in particular type 65 flour, has made it possible to reduce this percentage. It allows the share of other ingredients having more of an impact on quality, such as eggs, butter, sugar or alcohol, to be increased. This change only serves to strengthen the specific organoleptic characteristics of ‘Brioche vendéenne’.

—   Butter

The specification currently in force refers to a level ‘of fresh or concentrated butter’ in excess of 12,5 %. The amended specification adds ‘expressed as reconstituted butter’.

It is stated in the footnote how reconstituted butter is calculated.

‘The minimum percentage of butter to be added to the recipe is indicated by referring to fine butter with 82 % butterfat content.

If concentrated butter with Y % butterfat content is used (Y greater than 96 %), the equivalent in reconstituted butter is calculated using the formula:

Formula’

These additions provide clarity as to the minimum proportion of butter in the dough, whether fresh or concentrated butter. The proportion is in line with the methods used by manufacturers and ensures that the specific characteristics of ‘Brioche vendéenne’ PGI are maintained.

—   Alcohol aroma

The words: ‘Minimum of 0,5 %:

Eau-de-vie or rum

Undenatured cognac of a minimum of 44°’

are replaced by:

‘≥ 0,5 %

Eau-de-vie or rum or undenatured cognac, of a minimum of 44 %’

This change removes any ambiguity. It lays down the practice adopted by operators in the sector who use an alcohol for each preparation and do not combine undenatured cognac with eau-de-vie or rum.

—   Flavouring

The words: ‘Optional. If used, natural or nature-identical vanilla flavouring, or orange-blossom water’

are replaced by:

‘Optional. Natural vanilla flavouring or vanilla-flavoured flavouring and/or orange-blossom water’

This wording takes into account the legislative changes concerning the definition of flavourings and sets out the practices adopted by operators in the sector who may traditionally resort to using one of the flavourings or a combination of the two.

Production process (table)

Production process (table)

—   Dough freezing

The amended specification introduces the possibility of freezing the dough, specifying

‘Temperature below – 12 °C

May be stored for a maximum of 15 days’.

The addition of a freezing stage in the production process involves changing a number of steps. For the first rise, it has been added that the first rise of the dough, if frozen, must last a minimum of 30 minutes. For the fermentation process between the end of the kneading and the beginning of the baking stage (the finishing stage), which takes place after the product has been defrosted, a minimum of 6 hours and maximum of 24 hours is allowed between removing the dough from the freezer and placing it in the oven. This period ensures optimum defrosting and proofing.

These additions have also been incorporated into the diagrams relating to production and duration types according to production method.

This amendment to the specification introduces a new technical itinerary which allows the dough to be steadily frozen after the rising and braiding processes. It will allow small-scale operators to take advantage of all their brioche preparation to make ‘Brioche vendéenne’ PGI. Many operators prepare large volumes of dough in order to obtain a uniform product which observes tradition. The dough intended for freezing is wrapped and labelled. Operators will be able to defrost the dough and bake smaller quantities as and when they proceed to market it. Limiting the maximum storage period to 15 days guarantees that freezing remains temporary and that the properties of the dough intended for making ‘Brioche vendéenne’ PGI are preserved to the greatest possible extent.

Freezing the dough, which temporarily stops the action of the yeast, has no impact on the end objective.

—   Shaping and braiding

The sentences: ‘Braided “3 brins” or “façon 3 brins” brioche’ and ‘Regarding how to produce and present “façon 3 brins”, both techniques (“3 brins” and “1 brin” produced by hand and braided) are used without distinction by all producers (small-scale, industrial and retail). The weight of the dough is the same in both cases (i.e. minimum 300 g), as is the final result after baking (see photo at start of file).’

are replaced by:

‘Hand-made, braided “3 brins” or “1 brin façon 3 brins” brioche’.

This amendment simplifies the wording of the specification without altering it or adding anything.

—   Bagging

The specification currently in force states that bagging must take place within ‘a minimum of 1 hour 30’ and ‘a maximum of 4 hours of the end of the baking process’.

In the amended specification, the minimum period before bagging of 1 hour 30 has been removed. By removing this reference, all operators will be able to package the product according to their own methods and working environment. The end objective for the brioche remains as before (preserving its aromas and softness).

The maximum cooling period has been maintained.

—   Labelling

The sentence regarding the legal references featured on the labelling has been removed. The term DLUO (use-by date) has been replaced by DDM (minimum durability date). These changes reflect developments in the legislation in force.

—   Transport

The reference to the conditions for transporting ‘Brioche vendéenne’ has been removed as this is covered by general legislation.

—   Placing on the market

The provision on the conditions for placing products on the market (‘brioche undamaged, on display in a dry place and away from sunlight’) has been removed as it is covered by general legislation and does not relate to the production conditions for ‘Brioche vendéenne’.

Production process (diagram)

Production process (diagram)

The words ‘first rising/fermentation’

are replaced by:

‘rising/first fermentation’.

This is a stylistic change clarifying that the dough rises once and ferments twice.

The concept of ‘metrology’

is replaced by the more general term ‘traceability’.

The word ‘certification’ has been removed and replaced with a clearer term: ‘selection’.

Composition and recipe — production monitoring

Composition and recipe — production monitoring

This section has been removed from the specification as it contains non-binding provisions (advice, comparison with brioche parisienne). The parts referring to know-how (‘proofing’) are included in the section concerning the link with the geographical area.

brioche parisienne

5.4.   
  Heading ‘Link’

Heading ‘Link’

In the specification in force, references to the link with the geographical area were contained in a number of sections. The link is described differently with, in particular, a section on the history of the region, the link between the regional history and the tradition of producing brioche, and the development of the ‘Brioche vendéenne’ sector. A second section relates to the growing and proven reputation of the product and a third section on the economic impact of the sector and producer engagement, closing with a reference to the enthusiasm of operators for obtaining the PGI. The changes consisted of bringing together all the relevant information and rearranging the section according to the required headings, i.e. ‘specificity of the geographical area’, ‘specificity of the product’ and ‘causal link’. Furthermore, since the recognition of ‘Brioche vendéenne’ PGI, the reputation of the brioche has continued to develop. This growing reputation has also led to growth in consumption, as the statistics on this show.

The change is therefore of a stylistic nature and makes the link between ‘Brioche vendéenne’ and its geographical area easier to understand, without calling into question the basis of the link.

5.5.   
  Heading ‘Labelling’

Heading ‘Labelling’

The section on labelling has been updated in order to take into account the general legislation in force. According to the current specification, the following particulars must be indicated:

| ‘— | Name under which product is sold: “Brioche vendéenne” |
| --- | --- |

‘—

Name under which product is sold: “Brioche vendéenne”

| — | Vendée origin |
| --- | --- |

—

Vendée origin

| — | Label number or date and time of production |
| --- | --- |

—

Label number or date and time of production

| — | Name, address and logo of certifying body |
| --- | --- |

—

Name, address and logo of certifying body

| — | Name of group promoting the quality of the product which producer is a member of |
| --- | --- |

—

Name of group promoting the quality of the product which producer is a member of

| — | PGI logo (if necessary)’ |
| --- | --- |

—

PGI logo (if necessary)’

The summary sheet states with regard to labelling: ‘Product sold under the name “Brioche vendéenne”.’

The amended draft specification and Single Document state that labelling must include the following: ‘name and address of certifying body and name and contact details of producer’.

Since 4 January 2016, it has been necessary to label the product with the name under which it is sold, i.e. the PGI name and PGI logo. Consequently, it is no longer necessary to retain these provisions in the specification. Due to the reputation of ‘Brioche vendéenne’ PGI, the provision on the ‘Vendée origin’ is also not required. The provision concerning the ‘Label number or date and time of production’ relates to traceability information which businesses integrate into the way they operate so that batches can be traced. The provision relating to the ‘Name of group promoting the quality of the product which producer is a member of’ has been removed and replaced with ‘name and contact details of producer’, as these are details which better inform the consumer.

5.6.   
  Heading ‘Other’

Heading ‘Other’

—   Update of details

The contact details of the relevant Member State department have been added. The contact details of the applicant group and information on its composition have been updated.

—   Geographical area

The following sentence has been added to the specification in order to clarify the stages carried out in the geographical area: ‘The geographical area of production for “Brioche vendéenne”, from the kneading to the bagging of the product, comprises the following municipalities:’

For each department, the list of cantons has been replaced by a list of the corresponding municipalities. The geographical area has not changed.

The map of the geographical area has also been updated. The paragraph justifying the boundaries of the ‘Brioche vendéenne’ PGI area has been removed and the content incorporated into the section concerning aspects justifying the link with the geographical area.

In the Single Document, the list of cantons has been updated in the light of an administrative change to canton names and boundaries. The update was considered necessary as the review of the cantons carried out across France in recent years had resulted in certain cantons changing name and/or boundaries. The wording of the list of cantons contained in the summary sheet has been amended in accordance with French legislation. The area covered by the list is nevertheless the same.

—   Inspection body

The contact details of the inspection body have been replaced by those of the relevant control authority. This amendment aims to prevent changes being made to the specification in the event that the inspection body changes.

—   National requirements

The main aspects subject to monitoring are not indicated in the specification in force. These have been added to the amended specification, in the section on national requirements.

—   Annexes

The Annexes to the specification in force have been removed. They were in fact non-binding information enclosed for illustrative purposes (press review, labelling, historical studies, etc.).

SINGLE DOCUMENT

‘BRIOCHE VENDÉENNE’

BRIOCHE VENDÉENNE

EU No: PGI-FR-02294 — 24.2.2017

EU No: PGI-FR-02294 — 24.2.2017

PDO ( ) PGI ( X )

PDO ( ) PGI ( X )

1.   Name(s)

Name(s)

‘Brioche vendéenne’

2.   Member State or Third Country

Member State or Third Country

France

3.   Description of the agricultural product or foodstuff

Description of the agricultural product or foodstuff

3.1.   Type of product

Type of product

Class 2.3. Bread, pastry, cakes, confectionery, biscuits and other baker's wares

3.2.   Description of the product to which the name in (1) applies

Description of the product to which the name in (1) applies

‘Brioche vendéenne’ is a brioche which is braided and golden on its upper side, available in a regular round, oval or loaf shape. It is always marketed fresh, whole or sliced, on food-quality paper and bagged. It has a minimum weight of 300 grams.

The inside is a homogenous colour and has a honeycombed structure, with a light, stringy but melting texture in the mouth.

It has a complex aroma, balancing a buttery flavour, an aroma derived from the use of eau-de-vie or rum, and sometimes a scent of vanilla and/or orange blossom. It has a rich, sweet, aromatic taste.

3.3.   Feed (for products of animal origin only) and raw materials (for processed products only)

Feed (for products of animal origin only) and raw materials (for processed products only)

The flour is made from breadmaking wheats from the following cereal-growing regions: Centre, Grand Ouest (Loire Region, Brittany, Normandy, Poitou-Charentes), Beauce and Brie (geographical references: ‘Code et nomenclature des régions agricoles de la France au 1er janvier 1971’, published in 1974 under the joint authority of INSEE and SCEES). Both small-scale and industrial manufacturers and distributors source their flour from wheats from those regions because of their technological characteristics and their quality. The flour must have a baking capacity of at least W = 180 and the total protein content must be at least 10,5 %.

er

The eggs and the milk are from the geographical area.

The butter is from the geographical area and the Grand Ouest region of France (Loire Region, Brittany, Normandy and Poitou-Charentes).

The salt is obtained from the Atlantic coast between the Gironde Estuary and the southern coast of Brittany, particularly l'île de Ré, Noirmoutier and Guérande.

3.4.   Specific steps in production that must take place in the defined geographical area

Specific steps in production that must take place in the defined geographical area

All steps in the production of ‘Brioche vendéenne’, from the kneading to the baking of the product, take place in the geographical area.

3.5.   Specific rules concerning slicing, grating, packaging, etc. of the product the registered name refers to

Specific rules concerning slicing, grating, packaging, etc. of the product the registered name refers to

Bagging takes place in the geographical area.

The product is bagged quickly, once baked, in order to guarantee that its organoleptic characteristics are maintained. By bagging the sugar-rich product at an early stage, this protects it from insects, ensures its microbiological protection and preserves the softness and aromas of ‘Brioche vendéenne’ as best as possible.

3.6.   Specific rules concerning labelling of the product the registered name refers to

Specific rules concerning labelling of the product the registered name refers to

In addition to the requirements laid down by the legislation in force, the labelling includes:

| — | the name and address of the inspection body |
| --- | --- |

—

the name and address of the inspection body

| — | the name and contact details of the manufacturer. |
| --- | --- |

—

the name and contact details of the manufacturer.

4.   Concise definition of the geographical area

Concise definition of the geographical area

Department of Vendée: Entire department.

Department of Loire-Atlantique: the cantons of Clisson, Machecoul, Pornic, Rezé-1, Rezé-2, Saint-Brevin-les-Pins, Saint-Philbert-de-Grand-Lieu, Saint-Sébastien-sur-Loire, Vallet, Vertou and the areas situated south of the Loire in the municipalities of Indre and Nantes.

Department of Maine-et-Loire: the municipalities of Chalonnes-sur-Loire, Chaudefonds-sur-Layon, Denée, Rochefort-sur-Loire and the cantons of Beaupréau, Chemillé-Melay, Cholet-1, Cholet-2, Doué-la-Fontaine, La Pommeraye, Les Ponts-de-Cé, Saint-Macaire-en-Mauges and Saumur, excluding the areas situated north of the Loire in the municipalities of Les Ponts-de-Cé and Saumur.

Department of Deux-Sèvres: the municipalities of Allonne, Azay-sur-Thouet, Beaulieu-sous-Parthenay, La Boissière-en-Gâtine, Le Bourdet, Clavé, Les Groseillers, Mauzé-sur-le-Mignon, Mazières-en-Gâtine, Niort, Pougne-Hérisson, Priaires, Prin-Deyrançon, Le Retail, La Rochénard, Saint-Aubin-le-Cloud, Saint-Georges-de-Noisné, Saint-Georges-de-Rex, Saint-Hilaire-la-Palud, Saint-Lin, Saint-Marc-la-Lande, Saint-Pardoux, Secondigny, Soutiers, Usseau, Vernoux-en-Gâtine, Verruyes, Vouhé and the cantons of Autize-Égray, Bressuire, Cerizay, the canton of Frontenay-Rohan-Rohan excluding the municipality of Granzay-Gript, the cantons of Mauléon, Parthenay, La Plaine Niortaise, Saint-Maixent-l'École, Thouars and the canton of Val du Thouet excluding the municipalities of Airvault, Assais-les-Jumeaux, Availles-Thouarsais, Boussais, Le Chillou, Irais, Louin, Maisontiers, Marnes, Saint-Généroux, Saint-Jouin-de-Marnes, Saint-Loup-Lamairé and Tessonnière.

Department of Charente-Maritime: the cantons of Aytré, Châtelaillon-Plage, La Jarrie, Lagord, Marans, Rochefort, La Rochelle-1, La Rochelle-2, La Rochelle-3, Surgères and the canton of Tonnay-Charente excluding the municipalities of Échillais, Port-des-Barques, Saint-Nazaire-sur-Charente and Soubise.

5.   Link with the geographical area

Link with the geographical area

Specificity of the geographical area

Specificity of the geographical area

Natural factors

Situated on the Atlantic coast, between the port cities of Nantes and La Rochelle, the geographical area of ‘Brioche vendéenne’ enjoys a temperate oceanic climate which promotes great production variety. Its geological diversity is responsible for the varied environment:

| — | the Bocage vendéen at the southern border of the Armorican Massif, characterised by a farming system geared towards all types of livestock farming, |
| --- | --- |

—

the Bocage vendéen at the southern border of the Armorican Massif, characterised by a farming system geared towards all types of livestock farming,

Bocage vendéen

| — | the Plaine vendéenne, on secondary sediment, where mostly cereal is farmed, |
| --- | --- |

—

the Plaine vendéenne, on secondary sediment, where mostly cereal is farmed,

Plaine vendéenne

| — | marshland, mostly covered by pasture, in low-lying inland regions set back from the coast, |
| --- | --- |

—

marshland, mostly covered by pasture, in low-lying inland regions set back from the coast,

| — | celebrated salt marshes and seaside resorts, situated on the coast, as a result of which the Vendée department is the second most popular tourist destination in France. |
| --- | --- |

—

celebrated salt marshes and seaside resorts, situated on the coast, as a result of which the Vendée department is the second most popular tourist destination in France.

Human factors

Removed from major transport connections, the geographical area is home to a society united by shared values and a rich, varied, culinary scene. In this region where religion has a strong presence, the Easter celebrations, which signalled the end of winter and Lent, would be an occasion when pastries rich in sugar, eggs and butter would be shared. In the Vendée, such cakes were distinguished by their dense inside, caused by cutting short the fermentation of the dough. They were referred to as ‘pain de Pâques’, ‘galette pacaude’, ‘alize’ or ‘gâche’ (Association vendéenne du goût, Produits du terroir et recettes traditionnelles de Vendée, Éditions de l'Étrave, 1995). ‘Easter Saturday was dedicated entirely to making such brioches, which were often enormous’ (Anne-Christine Beauviala et Nicole Vielfaure, Fêtes, coutumes et gâteaux, Éditions C. Bonneton, 1978).

Produits du terroir et recettes traditionnelles de Vendée

Fêtes, coutumes et gâteaux

Having previously only been produced at home, the 19th century saw small-scale bakers start to produce the pastry. Around this time, the ‘braided brioche’ emerged in the Vendée, made from flour, eggs and butter, flavoured with eau-de-vie and sometimes with a hint of vanilla or orange blossom. The cake would be served at celebrations and associated with important events such communions and weddings. It was tradition for the bride's godparents to offer an enormous brioche as a gift (Edmond Bocquier, La Terre vendéenne, janvier 1906). The cake would be served on a pallet held overhead, which people would dance around (Abel Hugo, France pittoresque, Éditions Delloye, 1835). In the Vendée, this is still done to this day.

La Terre vendéenne

France pittoresque

With the introduction of the railway and the tourism boom of the 20th century, the economy of the Vendée began to look outwards. In the countryside, small-scale and industrial scale production developed, constituting an original economic model (Jean Renard, La Vendée, un demi-siècle d'observation d'un géographe, Presses universitaires de Rennes, 2004). Traditional bakers began producing on an industrial scale so they could supply brioches outside of the Vendée. In April 1949, the Association des Vendéens de Paris organised a charity sale in the capital. At that event, the name ‘Brioche vendéenne’ emerged as a way of distinguishing the product from other brioches (Frédéric Zégierman, Le Guide des pays de France, Éditions Fayard, 1999).

La Vendée, un demi-siècle d'observation d'un géographe

Le Guide des pays de France

Since then, all operators have adopted the traditional recipe for the product which involves an extended double fermentation process, forming and braiding the dough by hand, baking at medium temperature and bagging the product shortly after removal from the oven. The geographical area, which includes the administrative region of the Vendée and the adjacent areas of the neighbouring departments, was determined based on where know-how can be found, in conjunction with the movement of bakers and apprentices trained in the Vendée.

Specificity of the product

Specificity of the product

‘Brioche vendéenne’ can be recognised from its braided shape, which is the result of a specific manual shaping process known as ‘façon 3 brins’. It is mostly loaf-shaped but may, on occasions, be made into an elongated or round shape. It has a swollen, delicately golden crust. It may be marketed whole or sliced. It is placed on food-quality paper and packaged in a sealed transparent bag.

Once sliced, its honeycombed interior is revealed, which may be stringy but is always light. In the mouth, its soft, melting texture releases subtle aromas of butter and eau-de-vie or rum, sometimes with a hint of vanilla and/or orange blossom. It has a rich taste due to the high butter and egg content and is sweeter than most other brioches.

Causal link

Causal link

The causal link between the specific characteristics of the product and geographical area are based on both the established qualities of the product (composition, taste, appearance, texture) and its reputation.

Composition and taste linked to the characteristics of the geographical area

There is an identifiable link between the characteristics of the area and the ingredients used to make ‘Brioche vendéenne’:

| — | the oceanic climate which the region enjoys is conducive to cattle farming, in particular in the Bocage vendéen and marshland areas. For this reason, butter and dairy production thrive, |
| --- | --- |

—

the oceanic climate which the region enjoys is conducive to cattle farming, in particular in the Bocage vendéen and marshland areas. For this reason, butter and dairy production thrive,

Bocage vendéen

| — | due to the temperate climate and farming system with a hedgerow structure, there is considerable poultry production and therefore a plentiful supply of eggs, in particular at Easter, |
| --- | --- |

—

due to the temperate climate and farming system with a hedgerow structure, there is considerable poultry production and therefore a plentiful supply of eggs, in particular at Easter,

| — | cereal production has flourished since the Middle Ages, protected by the abbeys, thanks to the fertile soil in the Plaine vendéenne and drained marshland areas, |
| --- | --- |

—

cereal production has flourished since the Middle Ages, protected by the abbeys, thanks to the fertile soil in the Plaine vendéenne and drained marshland areas,

Plaine vendéenne

| — | Cognac, located south of the geographical area, is close by and explains why traditional eau-de-vie production has developed and why such alcohols are used in pastry-making, |
| --- | --- |

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Cognac, located south of the geographical area, is close by and explains why traditional eau-de-vie production has developed and why such alcohols are used in pastry-making,

| — | the area's coastal location, with its large ports, has influenced the use of foreign ingredients such as rum, vanilla and orange blossom flavourings and cane sugar, |
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the area's coastal location, with its large ports, has influenced the use of foreign ingredients such as rum, vanilla and orange blossom flavourings and cane sugar,

| — | the Atlantic coast has long been an important area for salt production, in particular around the Guérande, Noirmoutier and île de Ré basins. |
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the Atlantic coast has long been an important area for salt production, in particular around the Guérande, Noirmoutier and île de Ré basins.

These raw materials, which have long been found in the area, are the basis of the product's specific characteristics, namely the soft, melting texture of the dough due to eggs, milk and butter, the appropriate amount of sugar and salt, the aromatic complexity created by the alcohol, vanilla, orange blossom.

Appearance and texture derived from local know-how found in the geographical area

A strong causal link associates certain qualities of the product derived from the original production methods and local know-how found in the geographical area:

| — | the product's appearance, shape and braiding are produced by hand, |
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the product's appearance, shape and braiding are produced by hand,

| — | the very swollen appearance of ‘Brioche vendéenne’, its honeycombed interior and lightness in the mouth are the result of double fermentation, with a first rising stage followed by a final proofing stage, |
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the very swollen appearance of ‘Brioche vendéenne’, its honeycombed interior and lightness in the mouth are the result of double fermentation, with a first rising stage followed by a final proofing stage,

| — | the golden colour and softness are testament to a baking process which is expertly understood, in a well-suited oven, |
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the golden colour and softness are testament to a baking process which is expertly understood, in a well-suited oven,

| — | the product's delicate aroma is preserved by quickly bagging the product. |
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the product's delicate aroma is preserved by quickly bagging the product.

These traditional methods date back to the time-honoured tradition of making cakes for Easter or weddings. They have transferred from the home to specialist producers, have in part become industrialised and are kept alive today through the training of apprentices. The geographical area of ‘Brioche vendéenne’ encompasses all operators who now have expert knowledge of how the product is made.

Reputation associated with the specific characteristics of the geographical area

The product's reputation is based both on the fact that it is strongly rooted in the local area and is widely distributed outside its place of origin. Both are linked to certain characteristics specific to the geographical area.

An attachment between the people and their culinary heritage is indeed a particular characteristic found in the Vendée and its surrounding areas. The feeling of belonging to a community and a strong regional identity are at the root of a long tradition of Easter baking from which ‘Brioche vendéenne’ is derived, a tradition which is still observed at celebrations and weddings. Competitions dedicated to this jewel of gastronomy have kept this passion alive.

Owing to its location, the geographical area is open to tourism which has developed considerably over recent decades. The Vendée's attractive coastline provides an incredible sounding board for the reputation of ‘Brioche vendéenne’. With audacity and enthusiasm, small-scale and industrial producers have worked hard to promote the product, operating in an economic environment characterised by a high density of dynamic small and medium-sized rural businesses. The product accounts for more than 10 % of the national pastries' market (source: SECODIP panel, 2001). According to a study carried out by OSER, the Junior Enterprise of the Angers Higher School of Agriculture, 45 % of people are spontaneously aware of the product, and 77 % are aware when prompted (95 % in the West region and 50 % in the Parisian region).

In L'Inventaire du patrimoine culinaire de la France (Éditions Albin Michel, 1993), dedicated to the Loire region, ‘Brioche vendéenne’ is particularly celebrated by the National Council of Culinary Arts. ‘It has been very successful for many decades, far beyond the borders of the region [...]’.

L'Inventaire du patrimoine culinaire de la France

Reference to publication of the specification

Reference to publication of the specification

(the second subparagraph of Article 6(1) of this Regulation)

https://info.agriculture.gouv.fr/gedei/site/bo-agri/document_administratif-14f3e5da-22af-4b8a-aca8-d88d7481ebb9/telechargement

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(1)  OJ L 343, 14.12.2012, p. 1.

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