# Patent

## Title
Abraded fabrics exhibiting excellent hand properties and simultaneously high fill strength retention

## Abstract

The inventive method provides highly desirable hand to various different types of fabrics through the initial immobilization of individual fibers within target fabrics and subsequent treatment through abrasion, sanding, or napping of at least a portion of the target fabric. Such a procedure includes “nicking” the immobilized fibers thereby permitting the fibers to produce a substantially balanced strength of the target fabric in the fill and warp directions while also providing the same degree of hand improvements as obtained with previous methods. Furthermore, this process also provides the unexpected improvement of non-pilling to synthetic fibers as the “nicking” of the immobilized fibers results in the lack of unraveling of fibers and thus the near impossibility of such fibers balling together to form unwanted pills on the fabric surface. Fabrics treated by this process are also contemplated within this invention.

## Background
CROSS REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATIONS
This application is a continuation of Provisional Application Ser. No. 60/317,548, filed Sep. 5, 2001, which is a continuation-in-part of application Ser. No. 09/777,444, filed on Feb. 6, 2001 now abandoned, which is a continuation of application Ser. No. 09/569,473, filed on May 12, 2000, now U.S. Pat. No. 6,230,376, which is a continuation of application Ser. No. 09/252,513, filed Feb. 18, 1999, now U.S. Pat. No. 6,112,381. All of these parent, grandparent, and great-grandparent applications are herein entirely incorporated by reference.


FIELD OF THE INVENTION
The inventive method provides highly desirable hand to various different types of fabrics through the initial immobilization of individual fibers within target fabrics and subsequent treatment through abrasion, sanding, or napping of at least a portion of the target fabric. Such a procedure includes “nicking” the immobilized fibers thereby permitting the fibers to produce a substantially balanced strength of the target fabric in the fill and warp directions while also providing the same degree of hand improvements as obtained with previous methods. Furthermore, this process also provides the unexpected improvement of non-pilling to synthetic fibers as the “nicking” of the immobilized fibers results in the lack of unraveling of fibers and thus the near impossibility of such fibers balling together to form unwanted pills on the fabric surface. Fabrics treated by this process are also contemplated within this invention.
BACKGROUND
Materials such as fabrics are characterized by a wide variety of functional and aesthetic characteristics. Of those characteristics, a particularly important feature is fabric surface feel or “hand.” The significance of a favorable hand in a fabric is described and explained in U.S. Pat. Nos. 4,918,795 and 4,837,902, both to Dischler, the teachings of which are both entirely incorporated herein by reference.
Favorable hand characteristics of a fabric are usually obtained upon conditioning of prepared textiles (i.e., fabrics which have been de-sized, bleached, mercerized, and dried). Prior methods of prepared-fabric conditioning have included roughening of the finished product with textured rolls or pads. It has now been discovered, surprisingly, that such conditioning would favorably be performed while the target fabric is in its greige state or is unprepared. The conditioning of such fabrics provides heretofore unknown benefits in improvements in overall fabric strength, and the like (as discussed in greater detail below). Of great importance and necessity then within the textile treatment industry is a procedure through which greige or unfinished fabrics can be treated and subsequently finished which provides desirable hand to the target textile and does not adversely impact the ability for dyeing, decorating, and the like, the textile at a future point in time. Such processes have not been taught nor fairly suggested within the pertinent art. Thus, there is no prior teaching nor fair suggestion within the pertinent art which has accorded highly effective and easily duplicated textile hand improvements to greige goods and unfinished textiles.
In the textile industry, it is known to finish woven fabrics by abrading one or both surfaces of the fabric using sandpaper or a similarly abrasive material to cut and raise the fibers of the constituent yarns in the fabric. Through such a treatment, a resultant fabric is obtained generally exhibiting a closely raised nap producing a soft, smooth surface texture resembling suede leather. This operation, commonly referred to as sueding or sanding, is conventionally performed by a specialized fabric sueding machine wherein the fabric is passed under tension over one or more finishing rolls, covered with sandpaper or a similarly abrasive material, which are rotated at a differential speed relative to the moving fabric web. Such machines are described in U.S. Pat. No. 5,752,300 to Dischler, and U.S. Pat. No. 3,973,359 to Spencer, both hereby entirely incorporated by reference.
Another well known technique for enhancing aesthetic and performance characteristics of a fabric through the same type of surface-raising treatment is napping. Such a treatment provides a fabric exhibiting a softer hand, improved drapeability, greater fabric thickness, and better overall durability. Napping machinery generally utilizes rotatably driven cylinders including peripheral wire teeth, such as, normally, card clothing, over which the fabric travels under a certain amount of tension.
During a napping treatment the individual fibers are ideally pulled from the fabric body in contrast to sueding which ideally cuts the individual fibers. Sueding, however, presents some disadvantages including the fact that a certain amount of napping occurs simultaneously. Grit particles engage the surface fibers of the target fabric and inevitably pull them from the fabric body resulting in a relatively long pile. Such a long pile traps air at the surface of the fabric creating an insulating-type effect which thereby produces a warm feeling against the wearer's skin. Such an insulating effect is highly undesirable, particularly for apparel intended for summer wear. Upon utilization of strong synthetic fibers (i.e., nylon or polyester), this tendency for fibers to be pulled from the surface of the fabric is accentuated. More tension would thus be required to cut through such strong fibers (as compared to the force necessary to cut weaker ones) and the stronger fibers then are pulled more easily from the yarn. Upon engagement by an abrasive grit particle, sufficient tension to pull rather than easily cut the fibers is accorded. Pilling is thus more noticeable with strong synthetic fibers and where a long pile is created (and thus highly disadvantageous) because entanglement between adjacent fibers is more likely to occur, thereby resulting in highly objectionable and unwanted pills on the fabric surface.
Methods have been utilized in the past on prepared fabrics to produce a short pile in order to decrease the potential for pilling. These have included the use of sand paper with very fine grit, brush rolls with grit particles embedded in soft nylon bristles, and even blocks of pumice stone mounted upon oscillating bars. However, the fine grit sandpaper degrades easily and rapidly due to the loss of grit particles and the build-up of debris between the remaining particles. Furthermore, the target fibers are not cut in this fashion as much as they are generally eroded. Thus, fine grit sandpaper does not provide an effective process of replacing the sueding techniques mentioned above. Soft nylon bristles also appear to merely erode the fibers away than cut and also is highly inefficient because of the light pressure such devices apply to the target fabric. Pumice stone, being very soft, is itself subject to damage in such operations and also facilitates unwanted build-up of fibrous debris within the treatment surface of the stone. Undesirable wet procedures are generally necessary to produce any effective sueding results for pumice stone and fine grit sandpaper treatments.
Another disadvantage of prior napping and/or sueding treatments concerns the situation where fill yarns are exposed on the surface of the target fabric. Being perpendicular to the action of the napping and/or sueding, such treatments tend to act primarily upon these exposed yarns rather than the warp yarns. Weaving economy generally dictates that the target fabric would be more heavily constructed in the warp direction and thus it would be highly advantageous for sueding to act primarily on such warp yarns since those yarns exhibit more strength to relinquish during the abrasion procedure.
As noted above, one of the most unpleasant and unsightly phenomena produced through the utilization of strong synthetic fibers within fabrics is pilling. This term is generally accepted to mean the formation of small balls of fiber which are created on the textile surface by the entanglement of free fiber ends. Such fibers which hold the pills to the base fabric do not break off because the synthetic fibers (such as polyester) exhibit a higher flex strength than natural fibers and thus small balls of twisted and entangled fiber cling to the fabric surface.
A number of procedures have been developed to counter this undesirable pilling effect within the textile industry. For instance, polyester fibers have been produced with low molecular weights or low solution viscosities in order to reduce the strength of the fibers resulting in fiber ends and nascent pills which more readily break off from the fabric surface (Oust as with natural fibers). However, such a reduction in strength (by about 40% from standard polyester fibers) leaves them highly susceptible to damage during further processing thus prohibiting processing on ring or rotor-spinning frames at the same speeds and with the same efficiencies as normal types of natural fibers (such as cotton). A further method to control pilling concerns the chemical weakening of fibers within woven fabrics. This is accomplished through the application of super-heated steam or aqueous solutions of acids, ammonia, ammonia vapors, or amines. In such an instance, however, the entire fabric strength is sacrificed with no concomitant enhancement of hand. Furthermore, the potential for fabric defects (such as stains and uneven dyeing) is increased. An additional method is to utilize yarns having high twist. However, such resultant fabrics exhibit a harsh hand and the internal compression generated by the twist of the individual fibers makes it very difficult to properly de-size, mercerize, and dye fabrics comprising such high-twist yarns. It would thus be highly desirable to obtain substantial reduction in pilling for fabrics comprising strong synthetic fibers without recourse to the above processes and methods. Unfortunately, the prior art has not accorded such an improvement with a simultaneous improvement in hand of the fabric.
The present invention provides a hand improvement method to unfinished fabrics in a manner not disclosed in the known prior art. Such a method also substantially eliminates pilling in fabrics comprised of synthetic fibers simultaneously while providing the aforementioned improvements of the hand of the target fabric.



BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWING
FIG. 1 is a side schematic view of an apparatus useful in performing the instant invention, illustrating one manner in which a fabric may be processed according to the invention.



DESCRIPTION
The primary object of this invention is therefore to provide improved sueded hand to greige or unprepared fabrics while also retaining a balanced strength over the entire fabric structure. It is thus an additional advantage of this invention to provide such a method that is highly cost-effective and enhances subsequent fabric processing such as de-sizing, mercerization, dyeing, and the like. Another object of this invention to be provide a method of improving the hand of unfinished fabrics comprising synthetic fibers which simultaneously substantially eliminates pilling on the fabric surface. Yet another advantage of this invention is to provide a sueded cotton/polyester blended fabric wherein the sueded surface is dominated by relatively soft polyester fibers. These and other advantages will be in part apparent and in part pointed out below.
In order to improve the hand of fabrics in a manner which is consistent with warm weather wear, the constituent fibers must be treated in a manner which provides a consistently short pile, so that a stagnant layer of insulating air is not trapped at the fabric surface. It has been found that, by first immobilizing the fibers constituting the fabric with a temporary coating, followed by an abrasive treatment of the fabric surface, and then removal of the temporary coating, a fabric of unique aesthetic and practical characteristics is obtained. Compared to a fabric which has been sanded or napped, a fabric treated by the present inventive method is cooler to the touch, smoother to the hand, and dramatically more resistant to pilling. To understand how these advantageous characteristics are obtained, it is useful to compare the action of card wire on a film of polyester (e.g., Mylar® film) to the action of the wire on a polyester fabric. When card wire is dragged across a Mylar® film under pressure, many small scratches are seen to develop in the surface, due to the combination of high pressure at the wire tip combined with the high hardness of the wire relative to polyester. When the wire is similarly dragged across the polyester fabric, scratches are generally not found since the motion of the fibers relative to each other allows the stresses to be dissipated before abrasive wear occurs. Also, the interaction of wire and fiber typically tensions the fiber and draws it away from the yarn surface. When the fabric assumes the characteristics of a film, scratching of the fiber surface does then occur, and pulling out of fibers from the yarn is prevented. Thus, the fabric is transformed into film (or composite), abraded, and then transformed back into a fabric. What would be linear scratches on a film appear as nicks of various sizes on the surface fibers, including nicks which entirely cut through some of the fibers. The cut fiber ends will be released during subsequent processing (e.g., de-sizing) to form a pile which is uniformly short. Short fibers resist forming pills because the number of adjacent fibers available for entanglement is limited to those few within reach of each other. “Nicks” on these fibers serve as stress risers, allowing the fiber to break off during the kind of bending that occurs during pill formation. Since only the surface fibers have been so weakened, the bulk of the fabric strength has been retained as compared to chemical treatments, which necessarily weaken the entire fabric structure.
The term “nicking” basically encompasses the creation of cuts at random locations on individual fibers thus providing stress risers on the individual fibers. The immobilization of these fibers thus increases frictional contact between the individual fibers and prevents movement of the fibers during the sanding, abrading, or napping procedure. The abrading, sanding, or napping of non-immobilized fibers which move during treatment can result in the relative motion of the fibers and the pulling out of long fibers as the fibers interact with the abrasive or napping media. Such a process does provide improvements in the hand of such fabrics; however, the filling strength of the fabric may be sacrificed and the ability of the fabric to trap unwanted air (thus producing a warmer” fabric) is increased. Therefore, the inventive process comprises first immobilizing the surface fibers of a fabric with a temporary coating; second, treating the immobilized surface fibers by abrasion, sanding, or napping in order to cut and “nick” the fibers; and third, removing, in some manner, the temporary coating.
The immobilization step thus comprises encapsulating at least the surface fibers (and possibly some of the internal fibers of the fabric) in a coating matrix which makes the fibers stationary to the point that the individual fibers are resistant to motion due to the space-filling characteristics of the coating matrix within the interstices between the fibers, as well as the adhesion of adjacent fibers by the coating matrix. A typical coating matrix which imparts immobilization on the surface fibers of a target fabric is size (i.e., starch, polyvinyl alcohol, polyacrylic acid, and the like) which can easily be removed through exposure to water or other type of solvent. Usually, size is added to warp yarns prior to weaving. In accordance with this invention, the size already present in the greige goods to be abraded may be employed for the purpose of immobilization; alternatively, additional size may be coated onto the target fabric to provide a sufficient degree of rigidity.
To be effective (i.e., to impart the proper degree of rigidity or immobilization to the target fibers), the coating does not have to fill the entire free space of the yarn; however, a solids coating level of between 5 and 50% by the weight of the fabric has been found to be particularly effective. A coating range of between 10 and 25% of the weight of the fabric is most preferred. In one particularly preferred embodiment, a greige fabric is to be subsequently treated through sanding, abrading, or napping but does not require any further application of size. As long as the size present during the weaving procedure is not removed thereafter, sufficient rigidity will exist for proper immobilization of the target fabric for further treatment by sanding, abrading, or napping within the inventive process. Another preferred method of immobilization through size application is to dissolve the coating agent in water and pad onto the fabric, followed by a drying step; however, this encompasses both sized (greige) and de-sized fabrics.
Another temporary coating available within the inventive immobilization step is ice. In such an instance, 50 to 200% by weight of water is applied to the target fabric that is subsequently exposed to subfreezing temperatures until frozen. The fabric is then abraded while frozen and then dried. One embodiment of this type of immobilization includes padding on at least about 50% owf and at most about 200% owf water and then freezing the fabric in situ. Such a method may be utilized on greige, prepared, or finished goods and it eliminates the need to add extra amounts of size to an already-woven fabric. This elimination of the need to add and recover size is therefore highly cost-effective. If ice is utilized to immobilize the constituent fibers of the target fabric, napping with metal wires or brushes is the preferable method of treating the target fabric. Wire allows ice, which has melted and refrozen, to break free easily. The resultant ice film could render sanders and/or abraders ineffective since the grit generally utilized in those procedures is very small and would not penetrate through the film to “nick” the individual fibers as is necessary for this inventive process to function properly. The frozen target fabric is preferably maintained at a low temperature (at least from about −10 to about −50° C.), both to insure that the ice has sufficient shear strength for immobilization, and to provide enough heat capacity to absorb the mechanical energy imparted by the abrasion process without melting.
As noted above, the size employed as an aid to weaving may be retained subsequent to weaving, and employed in the present invention to immobilize the target fibers. This is believed to be unique within the textile industry. While such processes as singeing and heat-setting may be applied to greige goods, neither process obtains the advantages from the presence of size on the greige fabric. Otherwise, size is removed from greige goods prior to any further treatment (such as mercerizing, bleaching, dyeing, napping, sanding, and the like).
The most important step to the inventive method is the immobilization of the surface fibers. Thus, abrading, sanding, napping, and the like, may be utilized within the inventive process. Thus, abrading through contacting a fabric surface with an abrasive-coated cylindrical drum rotating a speed different from that of the fabric web is one preferred embodiment within this inventive process. Such a method is more fully described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,752,300 and 5,815,896, both to Dischler, herein entirely incorporated by reference. Angular sueding, as in U.S. patent application Ser. No. 09/045,094 to Dischler, now U.S. Pat. No. 5,943,745, also herein entirely incorporated by reference, is also an available method. The preferred abrasive is diamond grit embedded in an electroplated metal matrix that preferably comprises nickel or chromium, such as taught within U.S. Pat. No. 4,608,128 to Farmer. Other hard abrasive particles may also be used such as carbides, borides, and nitrides of metals and/or silicon, and hard compounds comprising carbon and nitrogen. Electroless plating methods may also be utilized to embed diamond and other hard abrasive grit particles within a suitable matrix. Preferably, the diamond grit particles are embedded within the plated metal surface of a treatment roll with which the target fabric may be brought into contact so that there is motion of the fabric relative to the grit particles. Since both the diamond facets and the metal matrix are microscopically smooth, build-up of size coating on the abrasive treatment surface is generally easily avoided. However, as noted previously, a more severe problem occurs where ice is utilized as the immobilizing matrix. The pressure of the fabric in contact with the small abrasive grit particles may cause the ice to melt and instantly refreeze onto the abrasive-coated cylinder. Also, since ice is generally weaker than polymeric sizing agents, a greater weight add-on is required to provide sufficient rigidity to the individual fibers. A thicker layer of coating thus results on the surface, and this superficial ice thickness interferes with the contact of the grit particles with the target fibers. As such, the grit particles would not be sufficient to “nick” the surface fibers. In such an instance, a napping procedure is preferred which utilizes wire brushes to condition the fabric surface, as taught in U.S. Pat. No. 4,463,483 to Holm. A cylindrical drum may still be utilized in such a situation with a napping wire wrapped around the drum which is then brought into contact with the target fabric, again a speed different from that of the fabric web. Normally, napping in this manner pulls the surface fibers away from the fabric surface; in the inventive method, the fibers are held in place and the desirable and necessary “nicking” of the individual fibers is thus accomplished. The bending of the wire during contact with the fabric allows ice to continually break free while the length of the wire insures that the ice coating can be penetrated and the “nicking” procedure is, again, accomplished.
The particular types of fabrics which may be subjected to the inventive method are myriad. Such include, without limitation, any synthetic and/or natural fibers, including synthetic fibers selected from the group consisting of polyester, polyamide, polyaramid, rayon, lycra, and blends thereof, and natural fibers are selected from the group consisting of cotton, wool, flax, silk, ramie, and any blends thereof. The fabrics may also be constructed as woven, non-woven, and/or knit materials. Preferably, the target fabric comprises synthetic fibers and is woven. More preferably, the fabric comprises woven polyester fibers in spun yarns.
It has been determined that warp-faced twill fabrics are particularly suited to this inventive process because all of the exposed surface yarns of the woven substrate are sized which thus results in immobilization of all of the desired fibers thereby facilitating the “nicking” procedure described above. Furthermore, the costs associated with padding on size, drying, and de-sizing may also be avoided in some cases by abrading the fabric in the greige state. Usually, the warp yarns are sized prior to weaving in order to protect them from damage while fill yarns are generally untreated. If the fabric is warp-faced (e.g., a warp-faced twill fabric), then the abrasion step may be directly performed on the face, without any added processing steps required. Surprisingly, this approach has been found to be successful with plain woven fabrics, even though the fill yarns are not sized. In these fabrics, directly from the loom, the fill is comparatively straight and therefore is buried in the fabric structure (and thus much less accessible to the abrasive treatment). Generally, fabric that has been so treated is then processed in the normal manner, which typically combines steps such as de-sizing, mercerizing, bleaching, dyeing, and finishing. In special cases, the fabric may be sold to converters directly after the abrasion process. The converter would then do all or part of the subsequent processing. In cases where the size has functionality, it can be left on the fabric and can become part of the final product. For instance, in the case of abrasive-coated cloth (i.e., where it is desired to bond abrasive grit particles to the cloth) the size acts as a primer coat keeping the resin at the surface and physically preventing it from penetrating the body of the cloth in an uncontrolled fashion.
Also of particular interest within this invention is the fact that sueding of cotton/synthetic fiber blend fabrics in the greige state, prior to mercerization, is now known to produce unexpectedly beneficial effects. Historically, synthetic fibers for use in apparel, including polyester fibers, have generally been supplied to the textile industry with the object of duplicating or improving upon the characteristics of natural fibers. Such synthetic textile filaments were mostly of deniers per filament (dpf) in a range similar to those of the standard natural fibers (i.e., cotton and wool). More recently, however, polyester filaments have been available on a commercial level in a range of dpf similar to natural silk (i.e., of the order of 1 dpf), and even in subdeniers (below 1 dpf). Such fibers are considerably finer and more flexible than typical cotton fibers and thus are potentially preferred in the industry over such natural fibers. It has thus been discovered that fabrics containing cotton blended with such low dpf polyester fibers treated in accordance with this inventive method, then subsequently mercerized, exhibit a sueded surface that is substantially dominated by the synthetic fibers. This effect occurs because the cotton portion of the generated pile tends to kink, bend, and shorten due to the swelling effect of the caustic on the cut cotton fibers. These fibers tend to swell to the greatest possible degree since they are not tensioned. Kinking and bending is further accentuated by the presence of “nicks” on these fibers, resulting in localized swelling where the cuticle of the cotton fiber is breached. The same effect does not occur with the cut polyester or other synthetic fibers that do not swell in the presence of caustic, so that the synthetic fibers ultimately dominate the surface aesthetics. This is advantageous when the target fabric contains synthetic fibers that are more flexible than mercerized cotton fibers, usually in the range of 1.5 dpf or less for polyester fibers. Such a benefit has not been readily available to the industry until now.
The above as well as other objects of the invention will become more apparent from the following detailed examples representing the preferred embodiments of the invention. A preferred method for abrading the fabric surface is illustrated in FIG. 1; except where otherwise stated, this machine set up was used to produce the fabrics described in the examples. The fabric F was fed to the abrasive rolls in a face-up configuration at an initial LPT tension at R1 of 110 lbs and a speed of 120 yards per minute. The fabric F was treated on its face in Section A by treatment rolls A1, A2, A3 and A4. The LEN measure tension at R2 was 72±15 lbs. The abrasive rolls A1, A2, A3, A4, B1, B2, B3 and B4 were 400 grit diamond plated rolls of the variety described previously. The abrasive rolls were turned in a clockwise our counterclockwise direction at a designated percentage of machine speed. A1 rotated counterclockwise at 400% speed, A2 rotated clockwise at 200% machine speed, A3 rotated counterclockwise at 400% machine speed, A4 rotated clockwise at 200% speed. The back of the fabric was treated in Section B. B1 rotated clockwise at 400% speed, B2 rotated counterclockwise at 200% speed, B3 rotated clockwise at 400% speed, and B4 rotated counterclockwise at 200% line speed. Relative to the speed of the fabric, each roll was running 300%, which gave an even treatment with and against the fabric. The tension at R3 was 300+20 lbs (critical measure setpoint), at LCN measured tension at R4 was 195±30 lbs, and at R5 was 165+20 lbs (critical measure setpoint.)
EXAMPLE 1
Four samples of 7.5 ounce per linear yard (66 inches wide) warp-faced twill fabric comprised of an intimate blend of 65% polyester and 35% cotton and completely constructed of open-end spun yarns were treated. One was a prepared fabric (i.e.,.already de-sized, bleached, mercerized, and dried) subjected to sanding alone and the other three were of the same fabric style prior to preparation. The combined level of abrasion for the front and back of all four test fabrics was the same, with varying proportions of such individual front and back sanding performed. The four samples, along with an untreated control, were then dyed, finished, and ultimately subjected to 10 industrial washes prior to testing.
The sanding operation was performed through contact with two pairs of 4.5′′ diameter rolls equipped with 320 U.S. grit diamonds in an electroplated nickel matrix. Each side of the fabric was treated by one pair of rolls (unless noted below to the contrary). The first roll for each side rotated against the direction of fabric travel and the second rotated with the fabric travel direction. The fabric subjected to the inventive procedure was a greige fabric, the fibers of which were already sufficiently immobilized through the presence of the size (polyvinyl alcohol) applied to the constituent warp yarns prior to weaving.
Strength performance was analyzed through measurements of the tensile strength of the fabrics in different directions. The tensile strengths (pounds per inch to break) were measured in both the warp and fill directions. The warp/fill ratio, as used below, is the ratio of the warp to fill tensile strengths. For a fabric with balanced overall tensile strength, this ratio would be 1.0. Abrading a fabric so that the warp/fill ratio is close to 1.0 is the ideal, as it results in an isotropic material with no weak direction, and makes the most efficient use of the starting tensile strengths of the fabric. Pilling performance was measured through an empirical analysis and rating system. Such ratings ran from 1 (worst) to 5 (best), with such lower numbers indicating a high degree of undesirable pilling on the surface and a higher number denoting the lack of appreciable amounts of pills on the test fabric surface.
The five samples were tested (3 subjected to the inventive procedure, one as a sanded control, and the remaining sample unsanded). Run #1 involved the greige fabric with retained size treated through a sanding procedure which constituted equal abrasion between the face and the back of the target fabric (50% face/50% back). Run #2 was also subjected to the inventive process and constituted a 60% face/40% back sanding procedure. Run #3 involved a 100% face sanding procedure within the inventive process. Run #4 treated a control sample by a 50%/50% sanding procedure, and Run #5 was a control sample which was not treated by sanding at all (and thus exhibited a harsh hand and other undesirable characteristics for apparel uses). The results of these analyses are provided below in tabulated form:







TABLE







Fabric Strength











Run
Warp Tensile
Fill Tensile
Warp/Fill
Pilling Rating














1
148
115
1.29
4.5


2
135
130
1.04
4.5


3
148
139
1.06
4.5


4(Control)
146
93
1.57
4.0


5(Control)
176
138
1.28
4.0









Clearly, the prepared (control) fabrics exhibit unbalanced tensile properties with the warp about 28% stronger than the fill. Sanding both sides of these fabrics increases this imbalance to 57%, while the fabrics subjected to the inventive processes exhibited an average reduction in fabric direction strength imbalances. Since the strength of the fabric as a whole is governed by the fabrics' weakest direction, the greatest sueding efficiency is realized when the warp and the fill have similar final strengths as was achieved and best evidenced through following the inventive process.

EXAMPLE 2
Two samples, one subjected to the inventive process and the other a control, of 4.8 ounces per square yard warp-faced twill comprised of an intimate blend of 65% polyester/35% cotton open-end spun yarns were treated in the same manner as in Run #s 1 and 5 of EXAMPLE 1, above. After 10 industrial washes, the control fabric exhibited a pilling rating of 2.0 while the fabric subjected to the inventive process showed a pilling rating of 4.0.
EXAMPLE 3
Two samples, one subjected to the inventive process and the other a control, of 5.2 ounces per square yard plain woven fabric comprised of open-end spun polyester yarns were treated in accordance with Run #s 1 and 5 of EXAMPLE 1, above, with the following variation. As both samples were prepared fabrics (i.e., they did not contain size), a solution of 15% PVA size was dissolved in water and padded on to the inventive process fabric for a wet pick-up of 100%. After drying at 135° C. for 15 minutes, this fabric was then sanded on both sides (50% face/50% back). Both samples were then washed and heat-set. The samples treated in accordance with the inventive process was found to exhibit about a 5.0 pill rating. The heat-set control sample, to the contrary, exhibited a very high degree of pilling for a 1.0 rating.
EXAMPLE 4
The same type of plain woven fabric as in EXAMPLE 3 was wet out with water so that the weight of the fabric approximately doubled. The wet fabric was then placed on a stainless steel cold plate for which the temperature was maintained between about −20 and −50° C. through contact with dry ice directly below the plate. Upon complete freezing of the water, the fabric face was scrubbed in the warp direction with straight carding wire. After this abrasion procedure, the fabric was dried to remove all moisture. A very short and even pile was developed which exhibited substantially no pilling for a rating of 5.0.
EXAMPLE 5
Again, the same type of plain woven fabric as in EXAMPLE 3 was utilized but this time a continuous web of the fabric was wet out and passed into a bath of liquid nitrogen. The face of the frozen fabric was then abraded by contact with rotating rolls having axes oriented in the fill direction of the fabric web and wrapped with straight carding wire. The first roll turned in the direction opposite of fabric travel and the second turned with the fabric travel direction. Upon heating and drying, the fabric exhibited a very short and even pile and was found to have substantially no pills for a rating of 5.0. An untreated plain woven fabric control fabric, on the other hand, exhibited a high degree of pilling for a rating of 1.0.
EXAMPLE 6
A 4.35 oz/sq yd fabric was woven in a plain weave construction using 26/1 OE 65/35 polyester/cotton yarns in the warp and 26/1 OE 65/35 polyester/cotton yarns in the filling. The woven fabric had approximately 103 ends per inch and 50 picks per inch. A sample of the fabric was retained in its unsanded form as Ex. 6A, while another sample was sanded in a conventional manner as follows: The fabric was processed on a machine of the variety described in commonly-assigned U.S. Pat. No. 5,752,300 to Dischler. The fabric was processed using two rolls against the face and two against the face and two against the fabric back, with one of each of the pairs of rolls turning with the fabric and the other turning in a direction opposite that in which the fabric was moving. Three hundred pounds of tension were applied to the fabric, the fabric was processed at 120 yards per minute, and the rolls were turning at a speed of approximately 4 yards per minute. The rolls used were 300 grit rolls. For the sake of clarity, this sample will be referred to as Ex. 6B.
Another sample of the fabric was then face finished using a process according to the instant invention as follows: The fabric was processed in its greige form on a machine of the variety illustrated in FIG. 1 of U.S. Pat. No. 6,233,795 using the roll set up described in Attachment A. specifically, the fabric was treated sequentially on its face by a series of 400 grit rolls comprising a first roller running counter clockwise at 400% of machine speed, a second roller running clockwise at 200% machine speed, a third roll running counter clockwise at 400% of machine speed, a fourth roll running clockwise at 200% machine speed. The back of the fabric was likewise treated sequentially by a fifth roll running clockwise at 400% machine speed, a sixth roll running counter clockwise at 200% machine speed, a seventh roll running clockwise at 200% machine speed. (It is to be noted that the rolls that acted on the back of the fabric were parallel to the rolls that treated the front side of the fabric, so that that the fabric traveled in a U-shaped path. The machine speed was 120 yards per minute, and the result was an evenly treated fabric with unique hand and strength characteristics. The fabric was then prepared via a conventional desizing and scouring process, and a conventional chemical finish designed to enhance the fabric's soil release characteristics was applied. (The application of such chemistry is known to those of ordinary skill in the art, and is not described herein further in that is not believed to be essential to the invention.) The fabric was then exposed to high pressure hot air using a device of the variety described in commonly-assigned U.S. Pat. Nos. 4,837,902 and 4,918,795 to Dischler, the disclosures of which are incorporated herein by reference. The fabrics were then sanforized in a conventional manner, as will be readily understood by those of ordinary skill in the art. The fabric for the sake of clarity is referred to as Ex. 6C.
Each of the samples was then tested for strength in the filling direction according to ASTM D1682 (current method). The results are listed below.
EXAMPLE 7
A 7.0 oz/sq yd fabric was woven in a 2×1 twill weave construction using 16/1 OE 65/35 polyester/cotton yarns in the warp and 12/1 OE 65/35 polyester/cotton yarns in the filling. The woven fabric had approximately 88 ends per inch and 46 picks per inch. A sample of the fabric was retained in its unsanded form (Ex. 7A), while another sample was sanded in the conventional manner as described above in Sample 6B, although in this case the fabric was processed at 80 yards per minute, at 400 pounds of tension. (This sample is Ex. 7B.) Another sample of the fabric was then face finished using the same process of the instant invention described above in Example 6C (to form Ex. 7C). Each of the samples was then tested for strength in the filling in the manner of Example 6. The results are listed below.
EXAMPLE 8
A 5.0 oz/sq yd fabric was woven in a plain weave construction using 26/1 OE spun 65/35 polyester/cotton yarns in the warp and 20.5/1 OE 65/35 polyester/cotton yarns in the filling. The woven fabric had approximately 102 ends per inch and 52 picks per inch. A sample of the fabric was retained in it unsanded form, while another sample was sanded in the conventional manner as described above in Example 6B. Another sample of the fabric was then face finished using the same process of the instant invention described above in Example 6C. Each of the samples was then tested for strength in the filling direction in the manner of Ex. 6. The results are listed below (Exs. 8A, 8B, and 8C, respectively).
EXAMPLE 9
A 4.5 oz/sq yd fabric of the variety that would typically be used in top weight apparel was woven in a plain weave construction using 19/1 OE 100% polyester yarns in the warp and 26/1 OE 100% polyester yarns in the filling. The finished construction had approximately 80 ends per inch by 48 picks per inch. This fabric was sanded in the conventional manner described above in Example 6B. For purposes of clarity, the fabric processed in this manner is identified as 9A herein. The fabric was also processed according to the instant invention, as described in Ex. 6C (Ex. 9B).
A commercially available sanded 100% spun polyester fabric of the same weight and weave construction of those of 9A and 9B was obtained. The fabric was subjected to the same tests as 9A and 9B (described further below) in order that the fabric of the invention could be compared to another sanded fabric marketed for the same types of end uses. For purposed of identification, that fabric will be referred to as 9C herein.
EXAMPLE 10
A 7.25 oz/sq yd fabric of the variety that would typically be used in bottom weight apparel was woven in a 2×1 twill weave construction using 12/1 OE 100% polyester yarns in the warp and 12/1 OE 100% polyester yarns in the filling. The finished construction had approximately 64 ends per inch by 50 picks per inch. This fabric was processed in the conventional manner described above in Ex. 6B. For purposed of clarity, the fabric processed in this manner is identified as 10A herein.
The fabric was also processed according to the instant invention, in the manner of 6C, to produce Example 10B.
A commercially available sanded 100% spun polyester fabric of the same weight and weave construction as those of 10A and 10B was obtained. That fabric was subjected to the same tests as 10A and 10B in order that the fabric of the invention could be compared to another sanded fabric marketed for the same types of end uses. For purposes of identification, that fabric will be referred to as 10C herein.
Percentages of retained filling strength were calculated for each of Examples 6–10 dividing the filling strength of the treated fabric by unsanded filling strength. The results for each are listed in the table below.












TABLE A








Filling







Strength
% Filling
% Filling Strength




Filling Strength
When
Strength
Retained When



Filling
of
Processed
Retained of
Processed



Strength of
Conventionally
According to
Conventionally
According to the


Example
Unsanded
Treated
the Invention
Treated
Invention







Ex. 6
 60 lbs
 52 lbs
 59 lbs
86.67%
98.33%


Ex. 7
120 lbs
101 lbs
114 lbs
84.17%
95.00%


Ex. 8
 79
 69
 75
87.34
94.94%


Ex. 9
 87
 62
 82
71.26
94.25%


Ex. 10
177
132
180
74.58
101.69% 









As illustrated, the fabric of the invention retain at least about 85%, more preferably at least about 90%, even more preferably at least about 93%, even more preferably at least about 95%, and even more preferably at least about 98% or even at least about 100% of its fill strength. In a particularly preferred form of the invention, the fabric retains substantially all of its original filling strength. As will be readily appreciated by those of ordinary skill in the art, the filling is generally where most woven fabrics initially fail. Therefore, manufacturers must be cautious when face finishing fabrics in an attempt to improve their hand to keep from lowering the strength of the fabric to an extent that the durability of the fabric is impacted to great of an extent. Because the fabrics of the invention keep a significant portion of their initial strength, and in particular, the strength in the filling direction, the fabric retains a desirable level of strength and durability. Also, the fabrics of the invention have desirable hand characteristics.
The fabrics of Examples 9 and 10 were all tested to determine the following characteristics using the Kawabata Evaluation System (“Kawabata System”). The Kawabata System was developed by Dr. Sueo Kawabata, Professor of Polymer Chemistry at Kyoto University in Japan, as a scientific means to measure, in an objective and reproducible way, the “hand” of textile fabrics. This is achieved by measuring basic mechanical properties that have been correlated with aesthetic properties related to hand (e.g. smoothness, fullness, stiffness, softness, flexibility, and crispness), using a set of four highly specialized measuring devices that were developed specifically for use with the Kawabata System. Those devices are as follows:
Kawabata Tensile and Shear Tester (KES FB1)
Kawabata Pure Bending Tester (KES FB2)
Kawabata Compression Tester (KES FB3)
Kawabata Surface Tester (KES FB4)
KES FB1 through 3 are manufactured by the Kato Iron Works Col, Ltd., Div. Of Instrumentation, Kyoto, Japan. KES FB4 (Kawabata Surface Tester) is manufactured by the Kato Tekko Co., Ltd., Div. Of Instrumentation, Kyoto, Japan. In each case, the measurements were performed according to the standard Kawabata Test Procedures, with 4 8-inch×8-inch samples of each type of fabric being tested, and the results averaged. Care was taken to avoid folding, wrinkling, stressing, or otherwise handling the samples in a way that would deform the sample. The fabric were tested in their as-manufactured form (i.e. they had not undergone subsequent launderings). The die used to cut each sample was aligned with the yarns in the fabric to improve the accuracy of the measurements.
Tensile and Shear Measurements
The testing equipment was set up according to the instructions in the Kawabata manual. The Kawabata shear tester (KES FB1) was allowed to warm up for at least 15 minutes before being calibrated. The tester was set up as follows:
Sensitivity: 2 and ×5
Sample width: 20 cm
Shear weight: 195 g
Tensile Rate: 0.2 mm/s
Elongation Sensitivity: 25 mm
The shear test measures the resistive forces when the fabric is given a constant tensile force and is subjected to a shear deformation in the direction perpendicular to the constant tensile force.

    Mean Shear Stiffness (G) [gf/(cm-deg)]. A lower value for shear stiffness is indicative of more supple hand.
    Shear Hysteresis at 0.5°, 2.5° and 50°—(2HG05, 2HG25, and 2HG50, respectively) [gf/cm]—A lower value indicates that the fabric recovers more completely from shear deformation. This correlates to a more supple hand.
    Residual Shear Angle at 0.5°, 2.5°, and 5.0° (RG05, RG25, and RG50, respectively). [degrees] The lower the number, the more “return energy” required to return the fabric to its original orientation.
    Tensile Energy (WT)—Tensile work (energy) during extension [gf/cm].
    Linearity of Extension (LT)—Compares extension work with the work along a hypothetical straight line from (O, y(O)) to (XMax, Y(XMax)).
    Tensile Resilience (RT) [%] Ability to recover from tensile deformation. Lower values mean fabric deformation is more permanent.
    % Extensibility (EMT)—% strain (extension) at 500 gf/cm [%] Higher number equals more stretch.


Surface Test
The testing equipment was set up according to the instructions in the Kawabata Manual. The Kawabata Surface Tester (KES FB4) was allowed to warm up for at least 15 minutes before being calibrated. The tester was set up as follows:
Sensitivity 1: 2 and ×5
Sensitivity 2: 2 and ×5
Tension Weight: 480 g
Surface Roughness Weight: 10 g
Sample Size: 20×20 cm
The surface test measures frictional properties and geometric roughness properties of the surface of the fabric.

    Coefficient of Friction (MIU)—Mean coefficient of friction [dimensionless]. A lower coefficient of friction indicates lower resistance and a smoother hand.
    Surface Roughness (SMD)—Mean deviation of the displacement of contactor normal to surface [microns]. Indicative of the roughness of the fabric surface. High SMD values are associated with poor hand.
    Mean Deviation of Coefficient of Friction (MMD) [dimensionless].


Bending
The testing equipment was set up according to the instructions in the Kawabata Manual. The Kawabata Bending Tester (KES FB2) was allowed to warm up for at least 15 minutes before being calibrated. The tester was set up as follows:
Sensitivity: 2 and ×1
Sample Size: 20×20 cm
The bending test measures the resistive force encountered when a piece of fabric that is held or anchored in a line parallel to the warp or filling is bent in an arc. The fabric is bent first in the direction of one side and then in the direction of the other side. This action produces a hysteresis curve since the resistive force is measured during bending and unbending in the direction of each side. The width of the fabric in the direction parallel to the bending axis affects the force. The test ultimately measures the bending momentum and bending curvature.

    Bending Stiffness (B)—Mean bending stiffness per unit width [gf-cm2/cm]. A higher mean bending stiffness indicates a more rigid fabric.
    Mean width of bending hysteresis per unit width at K=0.05 cm−1, 0.10 cm−1, and 0.15 cm−1 (2HB05, 2HB10, 2HB15, respectively) [gf-cm2/cm]. Lower value means the fabric recovers more completely from bending.
    Residual bending curvature at K=0.05 cm−1 (RB05) [cm−1]. A lower number indicates a more rigid fabric. RB05 is inversely related to B.


Four samples were tested in each of the warp and filling directions, averaged, and the results are listed in the attached results tables.
Compression
The testing equipment was set up according to the instructions in the Kawabata manual. The Kawabata Compression Tester (KES FB3) was allowed to warm up for at least 15 minutes before being calibrated. The tester was set up as follows:
Sensitivity: 2 and ×5
Stroke: 5 mm
Compression Rate: 1 mm/50 s
Sample Size: 20×20 cm
The compression test measured the resistive forces experienced by a plunger having a certain surface area as it moves alternately toward and away from a fabric sample in a direction perpendicular to the fabric. The test ultimately measures the work done in compressing the fabric (forward direction) to a preset maximum force and the work done while decompressing the fabric (reverse direction).

    % Compressibility—0.5 grams (COMP) A larger value indicates the fabric has more loft.
    Minimum Density—0.5 grams (DMIN) Fabric density at thickness TMIN[g/cm3] A less dense fabric is usually more supple and soft.
    Maximum Density—50 grams (DMAX) Fabric density at thickness TMAX[g/cm3] A less dense fabric is usually more supple and soft.
    Linearity of Compression—(LC) Compares compression work with the work along a hypothetical straight line from (X0, y(Xo)) to (Xmax, y(Xmax)). The larger the value, the more linear the compression. This indicates that the fabric is more isotropic in behavior.
    Compressional Resilience (RC) [%] A higher number indicates a more spongy fabric (i.e. it pushes back, indicating loft).
    Minimum Thickness—0.5 grams (TMIN)—Thickness [mm] at minimum gf/cm2).
    Maximum Thickness (TMAX)—Thickness [mm] at maximum pressure (nominal is 50 gf/cm2).
    Total Thickness Change during Compression (TDIFF) [mm]—Difference of TMIN−TMAX. Indicates the total thickness change during compression.
    Compressional Energy (WC)—Energy to compress fabric to 50 gf/cm2[gf-cm/cm2]. A higher number means that the fabric has more loft and is able to retain more loft during compression.
    Decompressional Energy (WC′)—This is an indication of the resilience of the fabric, with a larger number indicating greater resiliency.
    Weight—[mg/cm3]


Although specific examples have been described herein, it is noted that different fabric construction methods (including but not limited to woven, knit, nonwoven, and combinations thereof), can be used within the scope of the invention, as can different types of yarns and combinations thereof including spun yarns (including but not limited to open end spun, air jet spun, ring spun, vortex spun, core spun, compact ring spun, friction spun, and siro spun), filament yarns, and combinations thereof. Likewise, varying fabric weights can be used, as can dyed and undyed fabrics. The fabrics can be used in any number of end products, including but not limited to apparel, industrial, automotive, home furnishings and interiors, composites, etc.
Fabrics according to the invention can be dyed or undyed. One example of a process for producing a dyed fabric is as follows: The fabric can be face finished in the manner described in Ex. 6C while in its greige state, prepared by desizing and scouring in a conventional manner, heatsetting under normal processing conditions for these types of fabrics (as will be readily appreciated by those of ordinary skill in the art), dyed in a thermosol at 425 degrees Fahrenheit, and a conventional chemical finish designed to enhance the fabric's soil release characteristics can be applied.







TABLE B







Tensile Analysis Summary















A
B
C
D
Avg
STD
ERR










Example 9A - Warp Direction














WT
4.254
5.910
3.996
4.018
4.545
0.918
+/−1.459


LT
0.677
0.733
0.764
0.654
0.707
0.050
+/−0.080


RT
57.766
49.906
58.383
59.881
56.484
4.474
+/−7.114


EMT
2.475
3.195
2.060
2.420
2.538
0.475
+/−0.756







Example 9A - Filling Direction














WT
12.383
10.753
10.101
9.270
10.627
1.319
+/−2.097


LT
0.618
0.569
0.660
0.659
0.627
0.043
+/−0.068


RT
50.194
57.866
55.236
56.005
54.825
3.279
+/−5.214


EMT
7.900
7.450
6.030
5.595
6.744
1.105
+/−1.757







Example 9B - Warp Direction














WT
4.448
4.032
4.615
3.648
4.186
0.434
+/−0.691


LT
0.595
0.685
0.818
0.629
0.682
0.098
+/−0.156


RT
58.430
57.344
56.102
66.670
59.637
4.784
+/−7.607


EMT
2.915
2.330
2.235
2.275
2.439
0.320
+/−0.509







Example 9B - Filling Direction














WT
10.604
10.384
10.957
10.130
10.519
0.351
+/−0.557


LT
0.591
0.651
0.658
0.616
0.629
0.031
+/−0.050


RT
57.001
55.111
52.542
56.030
55.171
1.915
+/−3.045


EMT
7.070
6.285
6.535
6.515
6.601
0.332
+/−0.529







Example 9C - Warp Direction














WT
3.694
3.014
3.315
3.392
3.354
0.279
+/−0.444


LT
0.658
0.779
0.693
0.679
0.702
0.053
+/−0.085


RT
57.385
56.647
59.678
60.260
58.493
1.748
+/−2.779


EMT
2.170
1.525
1.875
1.950
1.880
0.268
+/−0.426







Example 9C - Filling Direction














WT
8.061
8.438
8.178
12.583
9.315
2.184
+/−3.473


LT
0.700
0.679
0.611
0.928
0.730
0.138
+/−0.219


RT
54.754
50.960
52.963
49.927
52.151
2.145
+/−3.410


EMT
4.495
4.870
5.250
4.930
4.886
0.310
+/−0.492
















TABLE C







COMPRESSION ANALYSIS SUMMARY















A
B
C
D
Avg
STD
ERR










Example 9A














Comp
35.170
39.676
33.898
36.082
36.207
2.480
+/−3.944


Densitymin
0.272
0.251
0.278
0.276
0.269
0.012
+/−0.020


Densitymax
0.420
0.417
0.420
0.432
0.422
0.007
+/−0.011


LC
0.340
0.314
0.346
0.332
0.333
0.014
+/−0.022


RC
54.029
52.059
51.791
52.325
52.551
1.009
+/−1.605


Tmin
0.545
0.586
0.531
0.534
0.549
0.025
+/−0.040


Tdiff
0.192
0.233
0.180
0.193
0.200
0.023
+/−0.037


Tmax
0.353
0.354
0.351
0.341
0.350
0.006
+/−0.009


WC
0.165
0.180
0.153
0.161
0.165
0.011
+/−0.018


WCPrime
0.089
0.094
0.079
0.084
0.087
0.006
+/−0.010


Weight
14.825
14.725
14.750
14.725
14.756
0.047
+/−0.075







Example 9B














Comp
37.804
35.433
34.232
39.337
36.702
2.300
+/−3.657


Densitymin
0.266
0.290
0.295
0.265
0.279
0.016
+/−0.025


Densitymax
0.428
0.449
0.449
0.436
0.441
0.010
+/−0.016


LC
0.354
0.313
0.326
0.325
0.330
0.017
+/−0.028


RC
49.227
53.947
52.646
51.271
51.773
2.018
+/−3.209


Tmin
0.556
0.508
0.501
0.558
0.531
0.030
+/−0.048


Tdiff
0.210
0.180
0.171
0.219
0.195
0.023
+/−0.037


Tmax
0.346
0.328
0.330
0.339
0.336
0.008
+/−0.013


WC
0.185
0.137
0.142
0.181
0.161
0.025
+/−0.040


WCPrime
0.091
0.074
0.075
0.093
0.083
0.010
+/−0.016


Weight
14.775
14.725
14.800
14.775
14.769
0.031
+/−0.050







Example 9C














Comp
55.972
53.197
57.062
52.468
54.675
2.194
+/−3.488


Densitymin
0.225
0.235
0.211
0.237
0.227
0.012
+/−0.019


Densitymax
0.512
0.502
0.491
0.498
0.501
0.009
+/−0.014


LC
0.276
0.296
0.277
0.293
0.286
0.010
+/−0.017


RC
47.473
49.672
47.469
48.692
48.327
1.066
+/−1.695


Tmin
0.653
0.634
0.705
0.628
0.655
0.035
+/−0.056


Tdiff
0.366
0.337
0.402
0.330
0.359
0.033
+/−0.052


Tmax
0.288
0.297
0.303
0.299
0.297
0.006
+/−0.010


WC
0.248
0.248
0.277
0.240
0.253
0.016
+/−0.026


WCPrime
0.118
0.123
0.132
0.117
0.123
0.007
+/−0.011


Weight
14.725
14.875
14.850
14.875
14.831
0.072
+/−0.114
















TABLE D







SHEAR ANALYSIS SUMMARY















A
B
C
D
Avg
STD
ERR










Example 9A - Warp Direction














G
0.832
0.889
1.001
0.952
0.919
0.074
+/−0.117


2HG05
1.512
1.625
1.757
1.533
1.607
0.112
+/−0.177


2HG25
2.244
2.461
2.728
2.582
2.504
0.205
+/−0.325


2HG50
3.503
3.702
4.178
4.246
3.907
0.362
+/−0.576


RG05
1.819
1.828
1.755
1.611
1.753
0.100
+/−0.159


RG25
2.699
2.769
2.725
2.714
2.727
0.030
+/−0.048


RG50
4.212
4.165
4.172
4.463
4.253
0.142
+/−0.225







Example 9A - Filling Direction














G
0.444
0.739
0.866
0.757
0.702
0.181
+/−0.287


2HG05
0.958
1.192
1.183
1.227
1.140
0.123
+/−0.195


2HG25
1.509
1.913
2.126
1.913
1.865
0.258
+/−0.410


2HG50
2.987
3.270
3.818
3.576
3.413
0.362
+/−0.575


RG05
2.156
1.612
1.365
1.621
1.689
0.333
+/−0.530


RG25
3.396
2.588
2.455
2.527
2.742
0.440
+/−0.699


RG50
6.722
4.423
4.408
4.723
5.069
1.112
+/−1.767







Example 9B - Warp Direction














G
1.091
1.412
1.330
1.099
1.233
0.163
+/−0.259


2HG05
1.401
1.835
1.656
1.561
1.613
0.181
+/−0.289


2HG25
2.563
3.325
3.162
2.629
2.920
0.381
+/−0.605


2HG50
4.238
5.322
5.258
4.419
4.809
0.561
+/−0.891


RG05
1.284
1.299
1.245
1.420
1.312
0.076
+/−0.120


RG25
2.350
2.354
2.378
2.392
2.369
0.020
+/−0.032


RG50
3.886
3.769
3.953
4.021
3.907
0.107
+/−0.171







Example 9B - Filling Direction














G
0.861
1.193
1.086
0.946
1.022
0.147
+/−0.234


2HG05
1.209
1.135
1.372
1.283
1.250
0.101
+/−0.161


2HG25
2.042
2.611
2.486
2.292
2.358
0.248
+/−0.394


2HG50
3.713
4.924
4.528
4.065
4.308
0.529
+/−0.842


RG05
1.405
0.951
1.264
1.356
1.244
0.204
+/−0.324


RG25
2.373
2.188
2.290
2.422
2.318
0.103
+/−0.163


RG50
4.315
4.127
4.171
4.295
4.227
0.092
+/−0.147







Example 9C - Warp Direction














G
3.112
3.135
3.592
3.126
3.241
0.234
+/−0.372


2HG05
1.636
1.774
2.563
1.908
1.970
0.410
+/−0.653


2HG25
6.332
6.665
7.666
6.704
6.842
0.574
+/−0.913


2HG50
10.966
12.022
11.951
12.262
11.800
0.572
+/−0.909


RG05
0.526
0.566
0.714
0.610
0.604
0.081
+/−0.129


RG25
2.035
2.126
2.134
2.144
2.110
0.050
+/−0.080


RG50
3.524
3.835
3.327
3.922
3.652
0.276
+/−0.439







Example 9C - Filling Direction














G
3.494
2.885
3.792
3.268
3.360
0.382
+/−0.608


2HG05
1.849
1.896
2.123
1.655
1.881
0.192
+/−0.306


2HG25
7.250
6.231
7.994
6.837
7.078
0.740
+/−1.177


2HG50
14.060
11.321
14.225
13.735
13.335
1.358
+/−2.159


RG05
0.529
0.657
0.560
0.506
0.563
0.066
+/−0.106


RG25
2.075
2.159
2.108
2.092
2.109
0.036
+/−0.058


RG50
4.024
3.924
3.751
4.202
3.975
0.189
+/−0.300
















TABLE E







Surface Analysis Summary















A
B
C
D
Avg
STD
ERR










Example 9A - Warp Direction














MIU
0.236
0.223
0.224
0.222
0.226
0.007
+/−0.010


MMD
0.069
0.076
0.085
0.084
0.079
0.008
+/−0.012


SMD
8.190
6.473
6.327
6.573
6.891
0.872
+/−1.387







Example 9A - Filling Direction














MIU
0.229
0.229
0.223
0.230
0.228
0.003
+/−0.005


MMD
0.032
0.036
0.040
0.024
0.033
0.007
+/−0.011


SMD
3.049
3.651
4.506
4.719
3.981
0.774
+/−1.231







Example 9B - Warp Direction














MIU
0.227
0.221
0.219
0.217
0.221
0.004
+/−0.007


MMD
0.076
0.080
0.067
0.072
0.074
0.006
+/−0.009


SMD
7.201
6.495
7.950
8.453
7.525
0.858
+/−1.364







Example 9B - Filling Direction














MIU
0.226
0.222
0.224
0.226
0.225
0.002
+/−0.003


MMD
0.041
0.044
0.046
0.042
0.043
0.002
+/−0.004


SMD
4.614
4.378
5.429
4.242
4.666
0.532
+/−0.845







Example 9C - Warp Direction














MIU
0.197
0.195
0.202
0.208
0.201
0.006
+/−0.009


MMD
0.052
0.055
0.049
0.044
0.050
0.005
+/−0.007


SMD
6.558
6.161
7.167
7.180
6.767
0.497
+/−0.790







Example 9C - Filling Direction














MIU
0.199
0.207
0.215
0.219
0.210
0.009
+/−0.014


MMD
0.060
0.048
0.057
0.051
0.054
0.005
+/−0.009


SMD
5.544
4.609
4.354
4.433
4.735
0.550
+/−0.874
















TABLE F







Bending Analysis Summary















A
B
C
D
Avg
STD
ERR










Example 9A - Warp Direction














B
0.066
0.080
0.078
0.086
0.078
0.008
+/−0.013


2HB05
0.070
0.071
0.085
0.077
0.076
0.007
+/−0.011


2HB10
0.077
0.085
0.096
0.094
0.088
0.009
+/−0.014


2HB15
0.080
0.093
0.101
0.103
0.094
0.010
+/−0.017


RB05
1.060
0.892
1.086
0.896
0.984
0.104
+/−0.165


RB10
1.167
1.062
1.237
1.092
1.140
0.079
+/−0.125


RB15
1.213
1.163
1.293
1.196
1.216
0.055
+/−0.088







Example 9A - Filling Direction














B
0.052
0.083
0.111
0.087
0.083
0.024
+/−0.039


2HB05
0.045
0.066
0.073
0.089
0.068
0.018
+/−0.029


2HB10
0.051
0.083
0.097
0.100
0.083
0.022
+/−0.036


2HB15
0.059
0.094
0.113
0.109
0.094
0.025
+/−0.039


RB05
0.880
0.792
0.660
1.029
0.840
0.155
+/−0.246


RB10
0.998
0.993
0.875
1.160
1.007
0.117
+/−0.186


RB15
1.152
1.123
1.019
1.255
1.137
0.097
+/−0.154







Example 9B - Warp Direction














B
0.087
0.114
0.104
0.077
0.096
0.017
+/−0.026


2HB05
0.090
0.081
0.104
0.079
0.089
0.011
+/−0.018


2HB10
0.104
0.106
0.122
0.090
0.106
0.013
+/−0.021


2HB15
0.110
0.123
0.131
0.098
0.116
0.015
+/−0.023


RB05
1.033
0.713
0.999
1.023
0.942
0.153
+/−0.244


RB10
1.191
0.935
1.176
1.174
1.119
0.123
+/−0.195


RB15
1.257
1.087
1.262
1.268
1.219
0.088
+/−0.140







Example 9B - Filling Direction














B
0.081
0.109
0.084
0.073
0.087
0.016
+/−0.025


2HB05
0.071
0.097
0.082
0.068
0.080
0.013
+/−0.021


2HB10
0.091
0.120
0.101
0.085
0.099
0.015
+/−0.024


2HB15
0.103
0.136
0.110
0.095
0.111
0.018
+/−0.028


RB05
0.872
0.888
0.976
0.935
0.918
0.047
+/−0.075


RB10
1.121
1.104
1.197
1.171
1.148
0.043
+/−0.069


RB15
1.272
1.246
1.305
1.299
1.281
0.027
+/−0.043







Example 9C - Warp Direction














B
0.123
0.114
0.258
0.150
0.161
0.066
+/−0.105


2HB05
0.083
0.082
0.166
0.099
0.108
0.040
+/−0.063


2HB10
0.109
0.102
0.224
0.126
0.140
0.057
+/−0.090


2HB15
0.135
0.124
0.285
0.156
0.175
0.075
+/−0.118


RB05
0.676
0.719
0.644
0.660
0.675
0.032
+/−0.051


RB10
0.882
0.900
0.870
0.842
0.874
0.024
+/−0.039


RB15
1.092
1.092
1.105
1.041
1.083
0.028
+/−0.045







Example 9C - Filling Direction














B
0.201
0.110
0.118
0.109
0.135
0.045
+/−0.071


2HB05
0.146
0.086
0.104
0.099
0.109
0.026
+/−0.041


2HB10
0.191
0.108
0.127
0.118
0.136
0.037
+/−0.060


2HB15
0.239
0.130
0.148
0.140
0.164
0.050
+/−0.080


RB05
0.726
0.780
0.876
0.908
0.823
0.084
+/−0.134


RB10
0.954
0.975
1.072
1.090
1.023
0.068
+/−0.108


RB15
1.190
1.175
1.252
1.287
1.226
0.053
+/−0.084
















TABLE G







Tensile Analysis Summary















A
B
C
D
Avg
STD
ERR










Example 10A - Warp Direction














WT
4.597
4.621
4.671
4.943
4.708
0.160
+/−0.254


LT
0.660
0.787
0.703
0.734
0.721
0.053
+/−0.085


RT
57.090
56.898
56.562
57.628
57.045
0.446
+/−0.709


EMT
2.720
2.270
2.595
2.615
2.550
0.195
+/−0.309







Example 10A - Filling Direction














WT
10.810
10.407
9.780
10.567
10.391
0.440
+/−0.699


LT
0.604
0.626
0.650
0.528
0.602
0.053
+/−0.084


RT
55.068
54.036
53.392
54.031
54.132
0.694
+/−1.103


EMT
6.955
6.515
5.875
7.890
6.809
0.846
+/−1.346







Example 10B - Warp Direction














WT
4.242
4.522
4.677
4.383
4.456
0.186
+/−0.296


LT
0.364
0.686
0.720
0.736
0.627
0.176
+/−0.280


RT
55.360
52.425
53.356
52.970
53.528
1.280
+/−2.035


EMT
4.620
2.585
2.535
2.335
3.019
1.073
+/−1.706







Example 10B - Filling Direction














WT
10.528
9.927
9.688
9.800
9.986
0.374
+/−0.595


LT
0.650
0.581
0.637
0.611
0.620
0.030
+/−0.048


RT
50.261
50.625
52.260
53.164
51.578
1.369
+/−2.177


EMT
6.350
6.700
5.960
6.290
6.325
0.303
+/−0.482







Example 10C - Warp Direction














WT
2.615
2.487
2.766
2.425
2.573
0.151
+/−0.240


LT
0.698
0.850
0.743
0.655
0.737
0.084
+/−0.133


RT
59.322
62.614
57.958
61.279
60.293
2.062
+/−3.278


EMT
1.470
1.110
1.445
1.445
1.368
0.172
+/−0.274







Example 10C - Filling Direction














WT
4.213
4.412
4.351
4.532
4.377
0.133
+/−0.211


LT
0.679
0.607
0.849
0.663
0.700
0.104
+/−0.166


RT
59.963
57.025
58.697
58.086
58.443
1.227
+/−1.950


EMT
2.445
2.850
1.980
2.680
2.489
0.378
+/−0.600
















TABLE H







COMPRESSION ANALYSIS SUMMARY















A
B
C
D
Avg
STD
ERR










Example 10A














Comp
26.502
25.186
30.826
32.763
28.819
3.566
+/−5.670


Densitymin
0.329
0.342
0.308
0.290
0.317
0.023
+/−0.036


Densitymax
0.447
0.457
0.446
0.431
0.445
0.011
+/−0.017


LC
0.337
0.354
0.310
0.327
0.332
0.018
+/−0.029


RC
47.255
46.782
45.160
43.529
45.682
1.692
+/−2.691


Tmin
0.708
0.673
0.745
0.789
0.729
0.050
+/−0.079


Tdiff
0.187
0.169
0.229
0.258
0.211
0.040
+/−0.064


Tmax
0.520
0.504
0.515
0.531
0.518
0.011
+/−0.018


WC
0.158
0.148
0.175
0.213
0.174
0.029
+/−0.045


WCPrime
0.075
0.069
0.079
0.093
0.079
0.010
+/−0.016


Weight
23.250
23.000
22.950
22.875
23.019
0.162
+/−0.258







Example 10B














Comp
34.201
33.661
33.553
33.157
33.643
0.430
+/−0.684


Densitymin
0.296
0.299
0.300
0.301
0.299
0.002
+/−0.003


Densitymax
0.450
0.450
0.452
0.450
0.451
0.001
+/−0.002


LC
0.321
0.327
0.338
0.343
0.332
0.010
+/−0.016


RC
47.961
48.526
48.817
48.715
48.505
0.382
+/−0.607


Tmin
0.788
0.762
0.760
0.756
0.767
0.015
+/−0.023


Tdiff
0.269
0.256
0.255
0.250
0.258
0.008
+/−0.013


Tmax
0.519
0.506
0.505
0.505
0.509
0.007
+/−0.011


WC
0.212
0.207
0.214
0.212
0.211
0.003
+/−0.005


WCPrime
0.102
0.100
0.104
0.103
0.102
0.002
+/−0.003


Weight
23.350
22.750
22.825
22.750
22.919
0.290
+/−0.461







Example 10C














Comp
37.784
41.531
39.912
40.853
40.020
1.632
+/−2.595


Densitymin
0.288
0.266
0.283
0.275
0.278
0.010
+/−0.015


Densitymax
0.464
0.455
0.471
0.465
0.464
0.007
+/−0.010


LC
0.336
0.309
0.286
0.290
0.305
0.023
+/−0.036


RC
49.422
49.227
50.701
50.413
49.941
0.726
+/−1.154


Tmin
0.772
0.830
0.796
0.809
0.802
0.024
+/−0.039


Tdiff
0.291
0.344
0.318
0.331
0.321
0.023
+/−0.036


Tmax
0.480
0.485
0.478
0.479
0.481
0.003
+/−0.005


WC
0.247
0.270
0.226
0.238
0.245
0.019
+/−0.030


WCPrime
0.122
0.133
0.115
0.120
0.123
0.008
+/−0.012


Weight
22.250
22.050
22.500
22.250
22.263
0.184
+/−0.293
















TABLE I







SHEAR ANALYSIS SUMMARY















A
B
C
D
Avg
STD
ERR










Example 10A - Warp Direction














G
1.576
1.724
1.635
1.491
1.607
0.098
+/−0.156


2HG05
3.518
3.020
2.796
3.216
3.138
0.306
+/−0.487


2HG25
4.884
4.803
4.551
4.559
4.699
0.170
+/−0.270


2HG50
6.678
7.103
6.957
6.423
6.790
0.302
+/−0.480


RG05
2.232
1.751
1.710
2.158
1.963
0.270
+/−0.430


RG25
3.100
2.785
2.783
3.058
2.932
0.171
+/−0.272


RG50
4.238
4.119
4.254
4.308
4.230
0.080
+/−0.127







Example 10A - Filling Direction














G
1.335
1.492
1.505
1.130
1.366
0.175
+/−0.278


2HG05
2.487
2.456
2.318
2.493
2.439
0.082
+/−0.130


2HG25
3.783
4.147
4.042
3.493
3.866
0.292
+/−0.464


2HG50
6.292
7.160
7.120
5.621
6.548
0.736
+/−1.171


RG05
1.863
1.645
1.541
2.206
1.814
0.294
+/−0.467


RG25
2.834
2.779
2.687
3.091
2.848
0.173
+/−0.275


RG50
4.714
4.798
4.732
4.974
4.805
0.119
+/−0.189







Example 10B - Warp Direction














G
1.897
1.751
1.599
1.581
1.707
0.148
+/−0.235


2HG05
3.547
3.108
2.610
2.814
3.020
0.407
+/−0.647


2HG25
5.393
4.989
4.355
4.595
4.833
0.456
+/−0.725


2HG50
7.347
7.826
7.227
7.347
7.437
0.266
+/−0.422


RG05
1.870
1.775
1.632
1.781
1.765
0.098
+/−0.157


RG25
2.843
2.849
2.724
2.907
2.831
0.077
+/−0.122


RG50
3.874
4.469
4.520
4.648
4.378
0.344
+/−0.547







Example 10B - Filling Direction














G
1.539
1.651
1.560
1.467
1.554
0.076
+/−0.121


2HG05
2.766
2.447
2.426
2.378
2.504
0.177
+/−0.281


2HG25
4.524
4.467
4.351
4.064
4.352
0.205
+/−0.326


2HG50
7.990
8.454
7.874
7.474
7.948
0.403
+/−0.641


RG05
1.797
1.482
1.555
1.621
1.614
0.135
+/−0.214


RG25
2.940
2.705
2.790
2.770
2.801
0.099
+/−0.158


RG50
5.192
5.120
5.048
5.095
5.114
0.060
+/−0.096







Example 10C - Warp Direction














G
2.834
2.335
2.655
2.469
2.573
0.218
+/−0.346


2HG05
1.797
1.677
1.412
2.059
1.736
0.269
+/−0.427


2HG25
5.998
5.136
5.408
5.601
5.536
0.362
+/−0.576


2HG50
12.732
10.724
11.645
11.247
11.587
0.851
+/−1.354


RG05
0.634
0.718
0.532
0.834
0.680
0.128
+/−0.204


RG25
2.116
2.200
2.037
2.269
2.156
0.101
+/−0.160


RG50
4.492
4.593
4.386
4.555
4.507
0.090
+/−0.144







Example 10C - Filling Direction














G
2.954
2.036
2.556
2.496
2.511
0.376
+/−0.598


2HG05
1.339
1.357
1.335
1.323
1.339
0.014
+/−0.022


2HG25
5.889
4.453
5.204
5.133
5.170
0.587
+/−0.933


2HG50
13.354
9.911
11.220
11.203
11.422
1.426
+/−2.268


RG05
0.453
0.667
0.522
0.530
0.543
0.090
+/−0.142


RG25
1.994
2.188
2.036
2.057
2.069
0.084
+/−0.133


RG50
4.521
4.869
4.389
4.489
4.567
0.209
+/−0.332
















TABLE J







SURFACE ANALYSIS SUMMARY















A
B
C
D
Avg
STD
ERR










Example 10A - Warp Direction














MIU
0.194
0.202
0.205
0.211
0.203
0.007
+/−0.011


MMD
0.027
0.027
0.029
0.024
0.027
0.002
+/−0.003


SMD
3.650
3.414
2.933
3.674
3.418
0.344
+/−0.547







Example 10A - Filling Direction














MIU
0.209
0.218
0.218
0.221
0.217
0.005
+/−0.008


MMD
0.032
0.040
0.039
0.043
0.039
0.005
+/−0.007


SMD
5.891
7.340
5.596
6.440
6.317
0.767
+/−1.219







Example 10B - Warp Direction














MIU
0.195
0.194
0.193
0.196
0.195
0.001
+/−0.002


MMD
0.026
0.024
0.024
0.025
0.025
0.001
+/−0.002


SMD
3.730
2.776
2.465
2.846
2.954
0.543
+/−0.863







Example 10B - Filling Direction














MIU
0.202
0.205
0.203
0.204
0.204
0.001
+/−0.002


MMD
0.036
0.039
0.039
0.029
0.036
0.005
+/−0.008


SMD
7.328
7.594
7.619
6.935
7.369
0.318
+/−0.505







Example 10C - Warp Direction














MIU
0.192
0.197
0.194
0.196
0.195
0.002
+/−0.004


MMD
0.020
0.020
0.020
0.021
0.020
0.001
+/−0.001


SMD
2.217
2.559
2.532
2.125
2.358
0.220
+/−0.349







Example 10C - Filling Direction














MIU
0.191
0.195
0.191
0.191
0.192
0.002
+/−0.003


MMD
0.047
0.047
0.049
0.045
0.047
0.002
+/−0.003


SMD
6.694
7.318
6.850
7.485
7.087
0.375
+/−0.597
















TABLE K







BENDING ANALYSIS SUMMARY















A
B
C
D
Avg
STD
ERR











Example 10A - Warp Direction














B
0.133
0.176
0.194
0.210
0.178
0.033
+/−0.053


2HB05
0.198
0.225
0.235
0.276
0.234
0.032
+/−0.051


2HB10
0.213
0.254
0.256
0.295
0.255
0.033
+/−0.053


2HB15
0.213
0.271
0.265
0.296
0.261
0.035
+/−0.055


RB05
1.492
1.279
1.212
1.314
1.324
0.120
+/−0.190


RB10
1.610
1.443
1.319
1.405
1.444
0.122
+/−0.194


RB15
1.604
1.544
1.362
1.412
1.481
0.113
+/−0.179







Example 10A - Filling Direction














B
0.175
0.190
0.182
0.161
0.177
0.012
+/−0.020


2HB05
0.201
0.215
0.205
0.178
0.200
0.016
+/−0.025


2HB10
0.218
0.242
0.237
0.198
0.224
0.020
+/−0.032


2HB15
0.232
0.256
0.250
0.208
0.237
0.022
+/−0.034


RB05
1.147
1.130
1.123
1.105
1.126
0.017
+/−0.028


RB10
1.244
1.272
1.302
1.234
1.263
0.031
+/−0.049


RB15
1.326
1.348
1.371
1.295
1.335
0.032
+/−0.051







Example 10B - Warp Direction














B
0.237
0.210
0.221
0.239
0.227
0.014
+/−0.022


2HB05
0.264
0.268
0.286
0.270
0.272
0.010
+/−0.015


2HB10
0.302
0.287
0.313
0.316
0.305
0.013
+/−0.021


2HB15
0.319
0.300
0.319
0.329
0.317
0.012
+/−0.019


RB05
1.114
1.279
1.297
1.128
1.205
0.097
+/−0.154


RB10
1.277
1.367
1.416
1.319
1.345
0.060
+/−0.096


RB15
1.350
1.428
1.445
1.375
1.400
0.044
+/−0.071







Example 10B - Filling Direction














B
0.224
0.243
0.224
0.202
0.223
0.017
+/−0.027


2HB05
0.264
0.263
0.245
0.209
0.245
0.026
+/−0.041


2HB10
0.299
0.302
0.293
0.241
0.284
0.029
+/−0.046


2HB15
0.310
0.316
0.301
0.255
0.296
0.028
+/−0.044


RB05
1.178
1.082
1.095
1.033
1.097
0.060
+/−0.096


RB10
1.333
1.243
1.312
1.192
1.270
0.065
+/−0.103


RB15
1.380
1.304
1.348
1.262
1.324
0.051
+/−0.082







Example 10C - Warp Direction














B
2.529
1.683
1.990
1.931
2.033
0.356
+/−0.566


2HB05
0.790
0.700
0.785
0.735
0.753
0.043
+/−0.068


2HB10
0.965
0.824
0.944
0.869
0.901
0.066
+/−0.104


2HB15
1.013
0.854
0.961
0.909
0.934
0.068
+/−0.109


RB05
0.312
0.416
0.394
0.381
0.376
0.045
+/−0.071


RB10
0.382
0.490
0.474
0.450
0.449
0.048
+/−0.076


RB15
0.400
0.508
0.483
0.471
0.466
0.046
+/−0.074







Example 10C - Filling Direction














B
0.942
0.577
1.074
0.803
0.849
0.212
+/−0.338


2HB05
0.566
0.494
0.664
0.559
0.571
0.070
+/−0.111


2HB10
0.819
0.641
0.948
0.753
0.790
0.128
+/−0.204


2HB15
0.918
0.693
1.052
0.859
0.881
0.149
+/−0.237


RB05
0.601
0.856
0.619
0.696
0.693
0.116
+/−0.185


RB10
0.870
1.112
0.883
0.937
0.951
0.112
+/−0.177


RB15
0.975
1.201
0.980
1.070
1.057
0.106
+/−0.168
















TABLE L







Kawabata Test Comparison (bottomweight)


Example 10









Mean Value



Test means significantly different @









Kawabata Test

p = .05










Group
Test
Example 10A
Example 10B













Shear
RG50 (Filling)
4.80
5.11


Compression
Comp
28.82
33.64



WCprime
0.08
0.10



RC
45.68
48.50









As indicated, in the Ex. 10 bottomweight samples several tests showed a significant difference between the treatments (see above)








TABLE M







Example 9B vs. 9C










Test
Ex. 9B
Ex. 9C
Comments





Bending (B):


Higher = More Rigid


Warp
0.096
0.161


Filling
0.087
0.135


Residual Bending


Lower = More Rigid


Curvature (RB05):


Warp
0.942
0.675


Filling
0.918
0.823


Coefficient of


Lower = Less Friction


Friction (MIU):


Warp
0.221
0.201


Filling
0.225
0.210


Compression


Lower = Supple Hand


(Den TMax):


Total
0.441
0.501


Mean Shear


Lower = Supple Hand


Stiffness (G):


Warp
1.233
3.241


Filling
1.022
3.360


Extensibility (EMT):


Higher = More Stretch


Warp
2.439
1.880


Filling
6.601
4.886









As indicated, this example showed that the fabric had a unique combination of strength and hand, as evidenced in particular by the Bending (B), Coefficient of Friction (MIU), Filling Tensile Strength, and Filling Tear Strength. In addition, the fabrics of this example had superior colorfastness and flat dry appearance. Preferably, the fabric retains at least about 85%, and more preferably at least about 93% of its initial filling strength, in addition to superior MIU and B values.








TABLE N







Example 10B vs. 10C










Test
Ex. 10B
Ex. 10C
Comments













Bending (B):


Higher = More Rigid


Warp
0.227
2.033


Filling
0.223
0.849


Residual Bending


Lower = More Rigid


Curvature (RB05):


Warp
1.205
0.376


Filling
1.097
0.693


Coefficient of


Lower = Less Friction


Friction (MIU):


Warp
0.195
0.195


Filling
0.204
0.192


Compression


Lower = Supple Hand


(Den TMax):


Total
0.451
0.464


Mean Shear


Lower = Supple Hand


Stiffness (G):


Warp
1.707
2.573


Filling
1.554
2.511


Extensibility (EMT):


Higher = More Stretch


Warp
3.019
1.368


Filling
6.325
2.489









Bending is preferably <2 in the warp direction, more preferably <1.5, more preferably <1, even more preferably <0.5, and even more preferably <0.3 in the warp direction. Bending is also preferably <0.8 in the filling direction, more preferably <0.7, more preferably <0.6, <0.5, <0.4, <0.3, or even more preferably <0.25 in the filling direction. In a particularly preferred form of the invention, Bending is low, and the Bending in the warp direction is approximately equal to the Bending in the filling direction.
Also, the RB05 value is preferably ≧0.4 in the warp direction, more preferably ≧0.5, more preferably ≧0.75, more preferably ≧1, more preferably ≧1.2. The RB05 value is also preferably ≧0.75 in the filling direction, more preferably ≧0.9, more preferably ≧1.0. RB05 in both warp and fill direction ≧1.
Also, the Mean Shear Stiffness (G) value is preferably ≦2.4 in the warp direction, more preferably ≦2.2, more preferably ≦2, more preferably ≦1.8. The G value is also more preferably ≦2.4 in the filling direction, more preferably ≦2.2, more preferably ≦2, more preferably ≦1.8, more preferably ≦1.6. G is also preferably ≦2.4 in both warp and fill directions, more preferably ≦2.2, more preferably ≦2, more preferably ≦1.8.
Also, the % strain at 500 gf/cm value is preferably ≧1.5 in the warp direction, more preferably ≧2, more preferably ≧2.5, more preferably ≧3. The % strain at 500 gf/cm value is preferably ≧3 in the filling direction, more preferably ≧4, more preferably ≧5, more preferably ≧6. The % strain at 500 gf/cm value is more preferably ≧3 in both the warp and filling direction.







TABLE O







Example 10A vs. 10C










Construction (Finished)
Ex. 10A
Ex. 10C
Industry Specs.













Overall Width
62.60
64.63



Cuttable Width
61.35
64.00


Ends/Inch
66
84


Picks/Inch
48
46


Finished Weight (oz/sq yd)
7.20
6.68


Warp yarn count - finished
12/1 OE
13.6/1 MJS


Fill yarn count - finished
12/1 OE
13.6/1 MJS


Denier - warp
1.20
1.18


Twist multiple - warp
3.60
N/A


Denier - fill
1.20
1.21


Twist multiple - fill
3.60
N/A


Reed width
72.0
N/A


Strength


AR - Tensile - Warp
235
314
150


AR - Tensile - Fill
126
162
100


10W - Tensile (lbs) Warp
230
291


10W - Tensile (lbs) Fill
130
152


AR - Tear Warp
6400
6400
3400


AR - Tear Fill
4739
6400
3400


10W - Tear (grams) warp
5664
6406


10W - Tear (grams) fill
3333
4838


Pilling - 10W-60 min
4.0
1.0
3.5


AR - Abrasion (cycles) warp
2000
2000
1000


AR - Abrasion (cycles) fill
2000
2000
1000


AR - Seam slippage (lbs)
40
40
25


warp


AR - Seam slippage (lbs) fill
40
40
20


TOTAL
36
37


Wash Performance


10 wash shrinkage (%) warp
2.8
4.5
3.0 Max


10 wash shrinkage (%) fill
0.3
1.4
3.0 Max


10W - flat dry app.
3.5
3.0
3.5 Min


TOTAL
16
12


Comfort


Moisture transport (sec)
1.0
1.0


Drape test value
129
438
Lower = Better


TOTAL
43
28





AR = As received













TABLE P 







Example 9A vs. 9B vs. 9C















Industry


Construction (Finished)
Ex. 9A
Ex. 9B
Ex. 9C
Specs.














Overall Width
64.63
63.25
61.00



Cuttable Width
63.38
62.00
60.50


Ends/Inch
82
81
84


Picks/Inch
47
48
72


Finished Weight (oz/sq yd)
4.40
4.48
4.56
4.25–4.50


Warp yarn count - finished
19/1 OE
19/1 OE
25.5/1





MJS


Fill yarn count - finished
26/1 OE
26/1 OE
24.8/1





MJS


Denier - warp
1.20
1.20
1.27


Twist multiple - warp
3.60
3.60
N/A


Denier - fill
1.20
1.20
1.26


Twist multiple - fill
3.50
3.50
N/A


Reed width
72.0
72.0
N/A


Strength


AR - Tensile - Warp
162
162
171
60


AR - Tensile - Fill
56
80
137
50


10W - Tensile (lbs) Warp
163
161
167


10W - Tensile (lbs) Fill
57
85
138


AR - Tear Warp
3333
3629
2778
1135


AR - Tear Fill
1750
3512
2214
1135


10W - Tear (grams) warp
2716
2355
2042


10W - Tear (grams) fill
1275
1529
1741


Pilling - 10W-60 min
4.2
4.0
1.0
3.5


AR - Abrasion (cycles) warp
2000
2000
2000
1000


AR - Abrasion (cycles) fill
2000
2000
2000
1000


AR - Seam slippage
37
40
40
25


(lbs) warp


AR - Seam slippage (lbs) fill
40
40
40
20


TOTAL
34
—
36


Wash Performance


10 wash shrinkage (%) warp
1.6
1.7
3.5


10 wash shrinkage (%) fill
0.0
1.0+
1.0


10W - flat dry app.
3.3
3.5
2.0
3.0 Min


TOTAL
22
—
13


Comfort


Moisture transport (sec)
2.0
2.0
2.0


Drape test value
94
97
555
Lower =






Better


TOTAL
43
—
28





AR = As received






As illustrated by the test data, the 100% spun polyester shirting of the instant invention had superior hand to conventional polyester cotton shirting materials, had much improved color wash down, had quicker dry time (which enables it to utilize a shortened dry cycle or lower dry temperatures and less energy output), no directionality on dyed shades, improved tensile performance, superior initial warp tear strength, superior initial filling tear strength, and higher initial warp tensile strength. In addition, the 100% polyester product made by the process of the instant invention had a superior characteristics relative to a conventionally sanded 100% polyester fabric (i.e. Ex 9B vs. 9C) as follows: substantially improved pilling, substantially better wash shrinkage when subjected to industrial washes, improved flat dry appearance following industrial washing, and no directionality.
More specifically, for fabrics of the variety described in Ex. 9, the fabrics preferably have a WT of >0.3, more preferably >0.4, even more preferably >0.5, >0.6, >0.7, and/or greater than 0.8, but preferably less than 0.9.
In addition, the 100% polyester product of the invention had the following benefits as compared with commercially available. 100% polyester fabrics of similar weight designed for the same types of markets: substantially better pilling (tested according the Random Tumble Method), wash shrinkage after 10 industrial washings at 165°, improved flat dry appearance after 10 industrial washes at 165°, no directionality, and significantly better drape and hand.
It is not intended that the scope of the invention be limited to the specific embodiments described herein, rather, it is intended that the scope of the invention be defined by the appended claims and their equivalents.

## Claims

1. A woven fabric comprising warp and filling yarns, said woven fabric comprising synthetic fibers, wherein said woven fabric includes a plurality of surface fibers, and at least a plurality of said surface fibers comprise a plurality of cuts at random locations on said individual fibers and a plurality of cut fiber ends defining a uniformly short pile, with at least some of said cut fiber ends being from the warp yarns, and wherein said cuts serve as stress risers on the individual fibers, allowing the fibers to break off during bending, and wherein said uniformly short pile is produced by abrasion of a greige fabric wherein at least the surface fibers of said greige fabric are encapsulated in a coating matrix and wherein abrasion of said greige fabric results in nicks on the surface fibers.

2. A woven fabric comprising warp and filling yarns, said woven fabric containing spun yams incorporating at least 65% polyester fibers, wherein said fabric has a weight of about 4.5 oz/sq yd and a consistently short pile defined by cut ends of fibers forming the woven fabric, wherein said fabric has a Kawabata System Coefficient of Friction MIU value of at least 0.2 and a filling tear strength of about 2500 lbs or greater, and wherein said uniformly short pile is produced by abrasion of a greige fabric wherein at least the surface fibers of said greige fabric are encapsulated in a coating matrix and wherein abrasion of said greige fabric results in nicks on the surface fibers.

3. A woven fabric comprising a plurality of warp and filling yarns, said woven fabric having an abraded surface defining a consistent short pile, and surface fibers having a plurality of cuts at random locations on individual fibers, wherein said fabric has a Kawabata System Coefficient of Friction MIU of about 0.2 or greater, wherein said fabric has a retained filling strength following abrasion of at least about 85% of its filling strength prior to abrasion, and wherein said uniformly short pile is produced by abrasion of a greige fabric wherein at least the surface fibers of said greige fabric are encapsulated in a coating matrix and wherein abrasion of said greige fabric results in nicks on the surface fibers.

4. A woven fabric according to claim 1, wherein said cuts and cut fiber ends define an abraded surface, and wherein said fabric has a filling strength in a filling direction following abrasion of at least about 85% of its filling strength prior to abrasion.

5. A woven fabric comprising warp and filling yarns, said woven fabric comprising synthetic fibers, wherein said woven fabric includes a plurality of surface fibers, and at least a plurality of said surface fibers comprise a plurality of cuts at random locations on said individual fibers and a plurality of cut fiber ends defining a uniformly short pile, with at least some of said cut fiber ends being from the warp yarns, and wherein said cuts serve as stress risers on the individual fibers, allowing the fibers to break off during bending, wherein said cuts and cut fiber ends are formed by immobilizing fibers while subjecting them to abrasion, sanding or napping.

6. A woven fabric according to claim 2, wherein said cuts and cut fiber ends define an abraded surface, and wherein said fabric has a filling strength in a filling direction following abrasion of at least about 85% of its filling strength prior to abrasion.

7. A woven fabric comprising warp and filling yarns, said woven fabric containing spun yarns incorporating at least 65% polyester fibers, wherein said fabric has a weight of about 4.5 oz/sq yd and a consistently short pile defined by cut ends of fibers forming the woven fabric, wherein said fabric has a Kawabata System Coefficient of Friction MIU value of at least 0.2 and a filling tear strength of about 2500 lbs or greater, wherein said cuts and cut fiber ends are formed by immobilizing fibers while subjecting them to abrasion, sanding or napping.

8. A woven fabric comprising a plurality of warn and filling yams, said woven fabric having an abraded surface defining a consistent short pile, and surface fibers having a plurality of cuts at random locations on individual fibers, wherein said fabric has a Kawabata System Coefficient of Friction MIU of about 0.2 or greater, wherein said fabric has a retained filling strength following abrasion of at least about 85% of its filling strength prior to abrasion, wherein said cuts and short pile ends are formed by immobilizing fibers while subjecting them to abrasion, sanding or napping.