INCH-POUND 

 GL/PD-06-03 

 28 December 2007

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION 

JACKET, FLEECE COLD WEATHER (GEN III) 

1. SCOPE. 

1.1 Scope. This document covers the requirements for double needle bar raschel warp knit, high pile, 

double velour jacket shall be used to provide the environmental protection, user comfort; lightweight and 

durability needed for wear in field, combat, and operation other than war. 

2. CLASSIFICATION. The fleece jacket shall be color Foliage Green. The fleece shirt shall be of one 

type in the following sizes: 

 Extra Small – Short 

 Extra Small – Regular 

Small – Short 

 Small - Regular 

 Small – Long 

 Medium - Regular 

 Medium – Long 

 Large - Regular 

 Large - Long 

 Extra Large - Regular 

 Extra Large - Long 

 Extra Large – Extra Long 

 Double Extra Large - Regular 

 Double Extra Large – Long 

 Double Extra Large – Extra Long 

3. SALIENT CHARACTERISTICS. 

3.1 Description. The fleece jacket has a center front opening with a one way slide fastener closure backed 

by a wind protection flap. It also has a collar, raglan sleeves with stretch grid fleece side panels, two 

internal upper chest pockets, two exterior hand-warmer pockets, and nylon reinforcements at the shoulder, 

collar and elbows. Nylon/lycra binding is used on bottoms of the sleeves and the jacket bottom. The 

slide fastener has a thong. This design provides a garment that is lightweight, low bulk, has 

environmental protection, and comfort. 
GL/PD-06-03

3.2 Materials.

3.2.1 Basic material, side panel material and pocket material. 

3.2.1.1 Basic Material. The basic material for the fleece jacket shall be 100% virgin filament polyester, 

color Foliage Green 504. The construction shall be a double needle bar raschel warp knit, high pile, 

double velour. The fabric shall conform to the physical requirements specified in Table I when tested as 

specified in Table I. Unless otherwise specified, the fabric shall be conditioned and tested in accordance 

with ASTM D-1776. 

TABLE I. Material Requirements.

CHARACTERISTIC REQUIREMENT TEST METHOD 

Fiber Identification 100% Polyester AATCC-20 1/ 

Weight, oz. per square yard 6.4 ± 0.6 ASTM D-3776 (Method C) 

0.12 

0.12 

22 + 1 

3/32 - 7/32 

Thickness, inch (max): 

 Initial 

 After laundering 

Wales and courses per inch 

Pile Height, inch 

ASTM D-1777 1/ 

AATCC –135, (1)(III)(A)ii, 3 cycles 

and ASTM D-1777 1/ 

ASTM D-3887 

 Face & Back 5.6.3 2/ 

Air Permeability, ft3/ft2/min (min) 

Colorfastness to: 

 Laundering, rating 

 Crocking, rating (min) 

Light (Xenon), rating (min) 

Dimensional Stability, percent (max): 

 Wale 

 Course 

Stretch, Course direction, percent 

(min) 

350 

3.0 - 4.0 

Dry – 4.0 /Wet – 3.0 

4 

5.0 

8.0 

30 

21.0 

ASTM D-737 

AATCC -61, Option 2a, 3 cycles 

AATCC- 8 

AATCC -16, Option E (170 kj) 

AATCC–135, (1)(III)(A)ii, 3 cycles 

ASTM – 2594 (Loose Fit) 

Compressed volume, cubic inches 

(max) 

5.6.1 

Thermal insulation, Clo (min) 1.3 5.6.2 

Color Foliage Green 504 3/ 

Toxicity 4/ 5/ 

2
GL/PD-06-03

1/ At pressure of 0.6 pounds per square inch. 

2/ Certificate of compliance 

3/ Color Matching. The color and appearance of the material shall match the standard sample when 

viewed using the AATCC Evaluation Procedure 9, Option A, with sources simulating artificial daylight 

D75 illuminant with a color temperature of 7500 + 200 K illumination of 100 + 20 foot candles, and shall 

be a good match to the standard sample under incandescent lamplight at 2856 + 200K. 

4/ The finished cloth shall not present a dermal health hazard when used as intended and tested as 

specified in footnote 5/. 

5/ Toxicity assessment. The contractor must furnish information, which certifies that the finished product 

is composed of materials, which have been safely used commercially or provided sufficient toxicity data 

to show compatibility with prolonged, direct skin contact. At a minimum, toxicity data should include 

results from a primary dermal irritation study in laboratory animals and a repeated insult human patch test 

(Modified Draize Procedure) (See 7.3.3). The latter must be conducted under the supervision of a 

qualified dermatologist using at least 100 free-living individuals. All finishes/chemicals used to process 

the garment shall be identified and accompanied by the appropriate Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) 

information. The use of chemicals recognized by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPD) as human 

carcinogens is prohibited.

3.2.1.2 Side Panel Material. The side panel material for the fleece jacket shall be 93% polyester and 7% 

spandex circular knit plaited jersey, heavyweight jersey with stretch. The plaited circular knit 

construction shall provide dimensional moisture management via both yarn denier differential face to 

back in the construction and chemical treatment. The jersey face shall be durable and low pilling. The 

color of the fabric shall be Foliage Green 504. The fabric shall conform to the physical requirements 

specified in Table II when tested as specified in Table II. Unless otherwise specified, the fabric shall be 

conditioned and tested in accordance with ASTM D-1776. 

TABLE II. Side Panel Material requirements 

CHARACTERISTIC REQUIREMENT TEST METHOD 

Fiber Content 93% Polyester and 7% Spandex AATCC-20 1/ 

Knit Type Plaited Grid Jersey Circular Knit 

Heavy Weight Solid with face to back 

yarn denier gradient 1:2 differential 

for dimensional moisture 

management plus wicking chemical 

treatment. 

Visual 

Weight (oz. per square yard) 6.6 ± 0.6 ASTM D-3776 

4.0 

Dry - 4.0; Wet - 3.0 

Good - 4 

Colorfastness to: 

 Laundering, rating (min) 

 

 Crocking, rating (min) 

 Light, rating (Xenon)(min) 

AATCC – 61, Option 2a, 3 

cycles, grade polyester only 

AATCC - 8 

AATCC - 16, Option E (85 kJ) 

3
GL/PD-06-03

5.0 

5.0 

AATCC–135, (1)(III)(A)ii, 3 

cycles 

Dimensional Stability, % 

(max) – 

 Wale 

 Course 

1/ Certificate of Compliance. 

4.0 

4.0 

Pass 

150 

0.06 -0.11 

30 – 80 

70 – 120 

18 

ASTM D-3512 

AATCC – 135, 3 Cycles, (1), III, 

(A), ii & ASTM D-3512 

5.6.4 

ASTM D-737 

Pilling on jersey face (min): 

 Initial 

 After Laundering 

Water sorption and wicking 

Air Permeability, ft3

/ft2/min 

(min) 

Thickness, inch 

Stretch, percent 

 Wale 

 Course 

ASTM D-1777 2/ 

ASTM D-2594 (Loose Fit) 

Compressed Volume, cubic 

inches (max) 

5.6.1 

Thermal insulation, Clo (min) 0.8 5.6.2 

Color Foliage Green 504 3/ 

Toxicity 4/ 5/ 

2/ At pressure of 0.6 pounds per square inch. 

3/ Color Matching. The color and appearance of the material shall match the standard sample when 

viewed using the AATCC Evaluation Procedure 9, Option A, with sources simulating artificial daylight 

D75 illuminant with a color temperature of 7500 + 200 K illumination of 100 + 20 foot candles, and shall 

be a good match to the standard sample under incandescent lamplight at 2856 + 200K. 

4/ The finished cloth shall not present a dermal health hazard when used as intended and tested as 

specified in footnote 5/. 

5/ Toxicity assessment. The contractor must furnish information, which certifies that the finished product 

is composed of materials, which have been safely used commercially or provided sufficient toxicity data 

to show compatibility with prolonged, direct skin contact. At a minimum, toxicity data should include 

results from a primary dermal irritation study in laboratory animals and a repeated insult human patch test 

(Modified Draize Procedure) (See 7.3.3). The latter must be conducted under the supervision of a 

qualified dermatologist using at least 100 free-living individuals. All finishes/chemicals used to process 

the garment shall be identified and accompanied by the appropriate Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) 

information. The use of chemicals recognized by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPD) as human 

carcinogens is prohibited. 

3.2.1.3 Mesh Tricot pocket material. Fabric shall be Tricot knit mesh of 100% polyester or equal. The 

color shall be Foliage Green 504. The fabric cloth shall meet the physical requirements specified in Table 

III when tested as specified in 3.2.2. 

4
GL/PD-06-03

 TABLE III. Mesh Pocket Material - Physical Requirements.

Characteristics Requirement Test Method 

Weight (oz./sq yd) 2.0 + 0.2 ASTM D-3776 (Method C) 

Dimensional Stability, percent 

(max.) 

AATCC–135, (1)(III)(A)ii, 

3 cycles 

 Warp 

 Filling 

5.0 

5.0 

Colorfastness: 

 Laundering Equal to or better than “4” rating 

on AATCC Gray Scale for 

Color Change 

AATCC -61, Option 2a, 3 

cycles 

 Crocking Equal to or better than “4” rating 

on AATCC Gray Scale for 

Color Change 

AATCC- 8 

 Perspiration Equal to or better than “4” rating 

on AATCC Gray Scale for 

Color Change 

AATCC-15 

 Light Equal to or better than the 

standard sample or not less than 

AATCC chromatic transference 

scale rating of 3.5 

AATCC - 16, Option E (85 

kJ) 

Toxicity 1/ 2/ 

1/ The finished cloth shall not present a dermal health hazard when used as intended. 

2/ Toxicity assessment. The contractor must furnish information, which certifies that the finished 

product is composed of materials, which have been safely used commercially or provided sufficient 

toxicity data to show compatibility with prolonged, direct skin contact. At a minimum, toxicity data 

should include results from a primary dermal irritation study in laboratory animals and a repeated 

insult human patch test (Modified Draize Procedure) (See 7.3.3). The latter must be conducted under 

the supervision of a qualified dermatologist using at least 100 free-living individuals. All 

finishes/chemicals used to process the garment shall be identified and accompanied by the appropriate 

Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) information. The use of chemicals recognized by the 

Environmental Protection Agency (EPD) as human carcinogens is prohibited. 

3.2.3 Thread. Thread for needle and bobbin (looper) shall be commercial 100% textured polyester thread, 

conforming to Type I, Class 1 of A-A-52095. The color of the thread shall match Foliage Green 504. 

3.2.4 Labels. The jacket shall have a label in accordance with Type VI, Class 14 of MIL-DTL-32075. The 

color of the labels shall approximate the ground shade of the basic fabric or white. In addition it shall 

contain a bar coding label in accordance with Type VIII and Class 17. 

3.2.4.1 The combination size, identification and instruction label for the jacket. The top (only) of the 

combination size and identification label shall be sewn on inside center back (+/- 1 inch off center) and 

caught in collar closing seam. The instruction label shall be sewn on left chest mesh pocket and stitched 

on all four sides. The printed labels shall be facing the body and it shall not be visible from the outside 

when in use. The instruction label shall include the following information: 

5
GL/PD-06-03

Machine or Hand Wash Warm, 

Tumble dry low or Line Dry 

Do Not Bleach 

Do Not Use Fabric Softeners 

Do not Iron 

3.2.9 Slide fasteners. 

3.2.9.1 Center front slide fastener. The center front closure shall use an individual element molded 

fastener with single slider, size 5-7 with a minimum crosswise breaking strength of 130 lbs., 9/16 inch 

wide tape, Foliage Green 504 color, conforming to type IV, style 6 of A-A-55634. The lengths of the 

center front, slide fasteners for the various size-length jackets shall be as shown in Table VIII, line item 6. 

3.2.9.2 Slide fastener thongs. The thongs for all slide fasteners shall be a 1/8 inch diameter, Foliage 

Green 504, non-elastic nylon cord. 

3.2.10 Fastener Tape, Hook and Loop. The loop fastener tape for the name tape shall be 1-inch wide, 

Foliage Green 504 color and conform to type II, class 1 of A-A-55126. The loop tape shall be 5-1⁄4 inches 

in length ± 1⁄4 inch. The loop fastener tape for the rank patch shall be 2 inches wide, Foliage Green 504 

color. The tape shall be 2 inches in length ± 1⁄4 inch. 

3.2.11 Webbing, Elastic. The elastic webbing for the mesh pocket opening shall be 3⁄4-inch wide and 

Foliage Green 504 color. The lengths of the inside pocket elastic cut length, for the various size-length 

jackets shall be as shown in Table VIII, line item 8. 

3.2.12 Hanger Tape The tape for the hanger loop shall be flat nylon, Foliage Green 504, 3/8-inch in 

width and conform to the type 3, class 1 or 2 requirements of MIL-T-5038. The hanger tape shall be 6 ± 

1⁄4 inches for all sizes. 

 

3.2.13 Binding. The binding for sleeve cuff and waist hem shall be a tricot knit weighing 4.1 + 0.2 oz. 

per sq. yd. with a fiber blend of 90% nylon and 10% Lycra®, slit into a 1-1/2 inch wide binding strip. 

The color of the thread shall match Foliage Green 504. 

3.2.14 Reinforcing material, Shoulders and Elbows. The reinforcing material shall be Foliage Green 

504, plain weave, 4-ply Taslan. The material shall conform to the requirements in the following Table IV 

when tested as specified. 

Table IV. Shoulder and Elbow Reinforcing Material - Physical Requirements

CHARACTERISTIC REQUIREMENT TEST METHOD 

Weight, oz/sq.yd 4.3 +/- 0.3 ASTM D-3776, Opt. C 

Yarns per Inch (min) 

Warp 

Filling 

158 

50 

ASTM D-3775 

Table IV. Shoulder, Collar and Elbow Reinforcing Material - Physical Requirements (Cont’d) 

6
GL/PD-06-03

CHARACTERISTIC REQUIREMENT TEST METHOD 

Breaking Strength, lbs (min) 

Warp 

Filling 

160 

180 

ASTM D-5034 

Dimensional Stability, %(max) 

Warp 

Filling 

5.0 

2.0 

AATCC-135, 

Table I, (3), (III), (A) iii 

Colorfastness to laundering, rating 

(min) 

4.0 AATCC-61, Test 1A and AATCC 

Gray Scale for Staining 

3.2.15 Lower pocket lining. The material for the lower pocket lining shall be a brushed tricot of 100% 

polyester or equal. The color shall be Foliage Green 504. The material shall conform to the following 

requirements when tested as specified. 

Lower Pocket Lining Material - Physical Requirements

CHARACTERISTIC REQUIREMENT TEST METHOD 

Weight, oz/sq.yd 3.3 +/- 0.2 ASTM D-3776, Opt. C 

Yarns per Inch (min) 

Warp 

Filling 

158 

50 

ASTM D-3775 

Dimensional Stability, 

%(max) 

 Warp 

 Filling 

5.0 

5.0 

AATCC-135, 

Table I, (3), (III), (A) iii 

Colorfastness to: 

 Laundering, rating (min) 4.0 AATCC-61, Test IIA and AATCC Gray Scale for 

Staining 

 Crocking (min) 4.0 AATCC-8 

 Perspiration (min) 4.0 AATCC-15 

 Light, after 40 hrs. (min) 4.0 AATCC-16, E 

3.3 Patterns. The government shall furnish a complete set of patterns or a master pattern with grade rules, 

to maintain uniformity and consistency in manufacturing. Seam allowances shall be as specified in Table 

VIII. The government patterns shall be used to create the contractor’s working patterns. Minor 

modifications are permitted to accommodate manufacturing procedures however the design and finished 

measurements shall be maintained. 

TABLE V. Cutters Must (List of Pattern Parts)

7
GL/PD-06-03

 PIECE NAME FABRIC QTY 

1 FLCJKT_BACK SELF CUT 1 

2 FLCJKT_LEFT FRONT SELF CUT 1 FACE UP 

3 FLCJKT_RIGHT FRONT SELF CUT 1 FACE UP 

4 FLCJKT_SLEEVE SELF CUT 2 

5 FLCJKT_TOP COLLAR SELF CUT 1 

6 FLCJKT_BTM PKT TRIM CONTRAST #1 CUT 2 

7 FLCJKT_ZIPFLAP TOP EXTENSION CONTRAST #1 CUT 1 FACE UP 

8 FLCJKT_UNDER COLLAR CONTRAST #1 CUT 1 FACE UP 

9 FLCJKT_SHOULDER PROT CONTRAST #1 CUT 2 

10 FLCJKT_SLV ELB PATCH CONTRAST #1 CUT 2 

11 FLCJKT_TOP INSIDE PKT CONTRAST #2 CUT 2 

12 FLCJKT_ZIPFLAP TOP CONTRAST #3 CUT 1 FACE UP 

13 FLCJKT_ZIPFLAP UNDER CONTRAST #3 CUT 1 FACE UP 

14 FLCJKT_SIDE PANEL CONTRAST #3 CUT 2 

15 FLCJKT_BOTTOM PKT PKT MTL CUT 2 

 COMMENTS BELOW: 

 

SELF = BASIC SHELL MATERIAL 

CONTRAST #1 = NYLON TASLAN 

CONTRAST #2 = TRICOT KNIT MESH 

CONTRAST #3 = MEDIUM WEIGHT GRID FLEECE FABRIC 

CONTRAST #4 = TRICOT KNIT BINDING FABRIC (SEE 3.2.13) 

PKT MTL = BRUSHED TRICOT KNIT (SEE 3.2.15) 

3.4 Construction. End item construction and appearance shall conform to figures denoted JACKET, 

FLEECE COLD WEATHER (GEN III) -VIEW 1, JACKET, FLEECE COLD WEATHER (GEN III) -

VIEW 2, and JACKET, FLEECE COLD WEATHER (GEN III)-VIEW 3. 

3.4.1 Seaming. The seams shall be consistent, exhibit a uniform appearance and conform to the ASTM D6193, Stitch Types listed in Table VI below. The stitching shall be 9-12 stitches per inch. The 

backside of all seams (inside garment) shall be overlocked. All material edges shall not ravel; edges may 

be turned-in, turned-under, serged or seared to prevent raveling. 

8
GL/PD-06-03

Table VI. Seams and Stitch Type

Seaming Areas Seam Type Stitch Type 

Attach Taslan facing to finish front bottom pocket. LScv-3 301 

Folding both upper edges of the mesh pockets 1” to the back side over 3⁄4” 

wide elastic, stitch through elastic and mesh along edge of elastic. Sew top 

mesh pocket to bottom tricot pocket. Attach care label to outside of left 

pocket.

SSa-1 301 

Attach pocket assembly to jacket fronts, along sides finishing front taslin 

pocket and front zipper edge. Sew pocket at seam through front connecting 

all layers. 

SSa-1 301 

Attach all fastener hook and loop per pattern placement: 1” x 5 1⁄4” fastener 

loop to both jacket fronts and 2” x 2” fastener loop centered directly over 

the 1” x 5 1⁄4” fastener loop (on right side only).

LSbj-1 301 

Fold grid fleece zipper flap in half, grid inside, and stitch curves with 1⁄4” 

seam. 

SSbf-3 301 

Turn zipper flap to right side (grid side showing) and topstitch finished 

edge with double-needle machine. 

SSc-1 301 

Overedge raw edge of zipper flap and front edges SSa-1 504 

Attach taslan elbow patches to sleeve backs . LSd-1 301 

Attach raglan sleeves to front and back of body with double-needle serger. SSa-2 516 

Topstitch raglan sleeve seams on both front and back with 1⁄4” seams from 

neckline to underarm. 

SSa-1 301 

Attach side gussets to sleeve/jacket fronts with double-needle serger. 

Close sleeves and sides with double-needle serger. 

SSa-2 516 

Turn gusset serge seams toward front and back, then top stitch around 

gusset with 1⁄4” seam. 

SSa-1 301 

Attach top edge of taslan collar to top edge of fleece collar with singleneedle serger. SSa-1 504 

Turn down serged collar seam and raise-stitch, catching seam. SSa-1 301 

Set undercollar to neckline with single-needle serger. Overedge bottom of 

fleece collar and bottom edge of jacket with single-needle serger. 

SSa-1 504 

Set binding on sleeve bottoms, overlapping tail to secure. BSc-1 301 

Turn binding tail to inside of sleeve and bartack. Bartack 

Attach front zipper with wind protection flap (on left side) from just above 

top of undercollar ending 1” from bottom edge. Attach fleece collar to 

inside along zippers, right sides together. 

LSba-2 

(a & b) 

301 

Hem bottom of jacket with 1” hem on double-needle hemmer, no top 

rocker. 

EFa-2 605 

Turn collar to right side and close at neckline, with size label, and hanger 

tape at center back. Topstitch around zipper and collar with 1⁄4” seam. 

SSa-1 301 

Thread non-elastic nylon cord thong in zipper sliders and tie. Hand 

Loop fastener tape shall be stitched on the loop pile and not on the selvage. Bartacks shall be added for 

reinforcement as follows and as shown in JACKET, FLEECE COLD WEATHER (GEN III) -VIEW 1, 

JACKET, FLEECE COLD WEATHER (GEN III) -VIEW 2: 

Bartack Location Bartack Length, Inch Quantity per Garment 

Pocket Ends 5/8 4 

9
GL/PD-06-03

Sleeve Hem 5/8 2 

Sleeve Binding Tail 5/8 2 

4. REGULATORY REQUIREMENTS 

4.1 Recycled, Recovered, or Environmentally Preferable Materials. Recycled, recovered, or environmentally 

preferable materials should be used to the maximum extent possible provided that the material meets or 

exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle 

costs. 

5. PRODUCT CONFORMANCE 

5.1 Product Conformance. The product provided shall meet the salient characteristic of Purchase Description, 

and shall conform to the cited patterns, specifications, standards and quality assurance practices. The 

Government reserves the right to require proof of such conformance. 

5.2 Ouality Conformance Inspection. Sampling for inspection shall be performed in accordance with 

ANSI/ASQ Z1.4, as specified in the contract or order. 

5.3 Component and End Item Inspection. In accordance with 5.1, components and end items shall be 

tested in accordance with all the requirements of referenced documents unless otherwise excluded, 

amended, modified, or qualified in this document or applicable procurement documents. The Government 

reserves the right to inspect all components and end items to determine conformance to requirements. 

5.4 End Item Visual Examination. The Jacket shall be examined for the major defects listed in Table VII 

as defined in FED-STD-4. 

TABLE VII. End item visual examination

 Classification 

Examination Defect Major Minor 

Material defects 

 and damages 

Any smash, multiple float or loose slub 

Cut, tear, mend, burn, needle chew, or hole 

Misweave, area of poor dye penetration, dyestreak, 

 broken or missing yarn, visible mend, thin place or 

 shade bar 1/

101 

102 

103 201

Cleanliness Any spot, streak, or stain of a permanent nature on a any 

 portion of garment which would be visible when the 

 garment is worn. 

Removable spot, streak, or stain on outside of garment 

Thread ends not trimmed throughout garment 

Any holding or basting threads visible on outside of the 

 finished garment, when applicable 

202 

203 

204 

205 

Component and 

 assembly 

Any defective component 1/ 

Any component part omitted 

Any required operation omitted or 

 improperly performed 1/ 

104 

105 

106 

206 

207 

TABLE VII. End item visual examination (Cont’d) 

10
GL/PD-06-03

 Classification 

Examination Defect Major Minor 

Drawcord Any drawcord caught in hem or tunnel stitching 

 restricting use of drawcord 

Any end not heat seared 

Any drawcord omitted 

Any end not knotted 

Any drawcord insufficient in length 

Any barrel lock omitted 

Not caught in center bartack, when specified 

107 

108 

109 

208 

209 

210 

211 

Slide fastener Any part of slide fastener bent, broken, otherwise 

 defective 

Not closing as specified 

Length not as specified 

Color not as specified 

Thong not as specified 

110 

111 

112 

212 

213 

Snap fastener Any part of assembly missing, mismated, broken, 

 cracked, bent, not securely clinched, affecting function: 

 - two or more snap fasteners 

 - one snap fastener 

One or more clinched too tightly cutting surrounding 

 fabric 

Loose, i.e., socket or stud spins freely or wobbles in 

 connection portions 

One or more having rough or sharp edge 

113 

114 

115 

214 

215 

Wrist tabs Missing 

Improperly located 1/ 

116 

117 216 

Labels Missing, illegible, or incorrect 

Incorrectly placed or attached 

118 

217 

Accuracy of seaming Seam twisted, pleated, seaming or puckered 1/ 

Part of garment caught in any unrelated operation or 

 stitching 1/ 

Thread break secured by stitching back of the break less 

 than 1⁄2 inch 

Ends of all seams and stitchings when not caught in 

 other seams or stitching, uneven or backtacked less 

 than 1⁄2 inch 

Color not as specified 

Gage of stitching uneven or not as specified 

Edge of seam tape less than 1/8 inch from seam 

 allowance 

Seam tape lifting off fabric 

Visible scorching (heat degradation of fabric) in excess of 

 3/16 inch width or 1⁄2 inch in length at any location 

 along a taped seam 

119 

120 

121 

122 

123 

218 

219 

220 

221 

222 

223 

TABLE VII. End item visual examination (Cont’d) 

11
GL/PD-06-03

 Classification 

Examination Defect Major Minor 

Open seams More than 1/8 inch up to 1⁄4 inch 

More than 1⁄4 inch 

NOTE: One or more broken or two or more continuous 

skipped or run-off stitches constitute an open seam. On 

double stitched seams, a seam is considered open when one 

or both sides of the seam are open. Raw edge not securely 

caught in stitching shall be classified as an open seam 

124 

224 

Seams and stitching Not specified seam or stitch type 

Missing, broken or skipped stitches 1/ 125 

225 

226 

Stitch tension Loose tension in any area: 

 - more than 1-inch but not more than 2-inches 

 - more than 2-inches 

Tight tension (stitches break when normal strain is 

 applied to the seam or stitching) 

Missing, broken, or skipped stitches 1/ 

126 

127 

128 

227 

Stitches per inch (to 

be scored only when 

the condition exists 

on major portion of 

the seam) 

Less than minimum specified: 

 - one stitch 

 - two or more stitches 

More than maximum specified 

129 

228 

229 

Pockets and flaps Flap attached crookedly, i.e., distance between sides of 

 pocket and underside of opened flap varies more than 

 1⁄4-inch 

Pocket or flap poorly shaped 

Flap not covering front or back edge of pocket by 3/16 

 inch or more 

Insignia tab set crookedly 

Pocket divider not properly placed 

230 

231 

232 

233 

234 

Heat sealed seams and 

 non-wicking buffer 

Any seam tape not located as specified 

Non-wicking buffer missing 

Non-wicking buffer not properly placed 

Any seam tape not 1/8 inch overlap on each side of sewn 

 seam 

Any seam tape not overlapped 3⁄4 inch minimum 

Any required stitching not covered by seam tape 

Any needle punctures that have not been repaired using 

 heat sealing tape 

Any area of the laminate knit fabric bordering the seam 

 tape that is melted exposing laminate film 

130 

131 

132 

133 

134 

236 

237 

Repairs Any heat sealing repairs extending beyond 25 inches in 

 length 

More than five repairs on any one item 1/ 

135 

136 

Seam tape adhesion Seam tape lifting off fabric within 3⁄4 inch of seam 1/ 

Visible scorching (heat degradation of the fabric on the 

 laminate) in excess of 3/16 inch in width or 1⁄2 inch in 

 length at any location along a taped seam 

137 

138 

TABLE VII. End item visual examination (Cont’d) 

12
GL/PD-06-03

 Classification

Examination Defect Major Minor 

Shaded part Variation in shade within an outside part 1/ 

Any part required to be cut form one piece on material 

 shaded 1/ 

NOTE: Parts suspected as being shaded shall be examined 

at a distance of 3 feet against the background of the other 

parts and colors of the garment. When the shade difference 

is readily discernible under these examining conditions, it 

shall be scored as a shaded part. 

139 

140 

238 

239 

Fronts 

 Length of fronts 

Hem uneven by 1⁄4 inch or more at bottom when fastened 

Uneven by 1⁄4 inch or more at neck when fastened 

Flaps uneven by more than 1⁄4 inch when fastened 

Left flap less than 1⁄4 inch longer at bottom than right flap 

 when fastened 

240 

241 

242 

243 

Bartacks Bartack omitted 

Any bartack not in specified location, insecure, or not 

 serving intended purpose: 

 - more than two 

 - two or less 

Any loose stitching, incomplete or broken 

Length or width not as specified 

141 

142 

244 

245 

246 

Hood flap Snaps not in locations specified 

Loop fasteners not in locations specified 

Not heat sealed 

143 

144 

145 

Label/tag Barcode omitted or not readable by scanner 

Human-readable-interpretation (HRI)) omitted or 

 illegible 

Not attached to location specified 

Causes damage to the garment 146 

247 

248 

249 

Fastener tape hook & 

 pile 

Not properly placed 

Not specified length 

147 

250 

1/ This defect shall be scored as major when seriously affecting serviceability and as a minor when affecting 

serviceability but not seriously.

13
GL/PD-06-03

5.5 Finished Dimensions. The finished Jacket shall conform to the measurements listed in the Table VIII. 

TABLE VIII. Finished Dimensions (Measurements in Inches)

REGULAR XS S M L XL 2XL TOL +/- 

1 ACROSS CHEST 1/ 22 24 26 28 30 32 -0.25" , +0.5" 

2 SWEEP 2/ 19 21 23 25 27 29 10/ 

3 BACK LENGTH 3/ 27 27 1/2 28 28 1/2 29 29 1/2 -0.5", +0.5" 

4 SLEEVE LENGTH FROM CB 4/ 33 33 3/4 34 1/2 35 1/4 36 36 3/4 -0.5", +0.5" 

5 CUFF OPENING 5/ 4 4 1⁄4 4 1⁄2 4 3⁄4 5 5 1⁄4 -0.25", +0.25" 

6 CF ZIPPER LENGTH 6/ 27 1/2 28 28 1/2 29 29 1/2 30 -0.5", +0.5" 

7 COLLAR WIDTH AT CF 8/ 3 3/4 3 3/4 3 3/4 3 3/4 3 3/4 3 3/4 -0.25", +0.25" 

8 INSIDE PKT ELASTIC CUT LENGTH 8/ 8 1/2 9 1/2 10 1/2 11 1/2 12 1/2 13 1/2 -0.25", +0.25" 

9 OUTSIDE PKT OPENING 9/ 7 7 7 7 7 7 -0.25", +0.5" 

SHORT XS S 

2 BACK LENGTH 3/ 26 26 1/2 -0.5", +0.5" 

4 SLEEVE LENGTH FROM CB 4/ 31 1/2 32 1/4 -0.5", +0.5" 

6 CF ZIPPER LENGTH 6/ 26 1/2 27 -0.5", +0.5" 

LONG S M L XL 2XL 

2 BACK LENGTH 3/ 28 1/2 29 29 1/2 30 30 1/2 -0.5", +0.5" 

4 SLEEVE LENGTH FROM CB 4/ 35 1/4 36 36 3/4 37 1/2 38 1/4 -0.5", +0.5" 

6 CF ZIPPER LENGTH 6/ 29 29 1/2 30 30 1/2 31 -0.5", +0.5" 

XLONG XL 2XL 

2 BACK LENGTH 3/ 31 31 1/2 -0.5", +0.5" 

4 SLEEVE LENGTH FROM CB 4/ 39 39 3/4 -0.5", +0.5" 

6 CF ZIPPER LENGTH 6/ 31 1/2 32 -0.5", +0.5" 

 1/ Across chest measurement is taken folded from edge to edge at the bottom of armhole 

 2/ Sweep measurement is taken from folded edge to folded edge, 2-1/2” above the top of the binding tape. 

 3/ Back Length Measurement is taken from bottom of center back neck straight to hem 

4/ Sleeve length from CB is taken from bottom of center back neck straight to the bottom of sleeve binding with sleeve extended 

 out flat taking care to pull the Taslan elbow patch flat and straighten out sleeve bottom binding. 

 5/ Cuff Opening is taken from edge to edge at sleeve hem 

6/ CF zipper length should be measured by holding zipper tightly at top and bottom, then stretching zipper completely flat and, 

 while holding taught, place against a calibrated steel ruler. 

 9/ Outside pocket opening measurement is taken from bartack to bartack 

8/ For construction only 

10/ XS: +5/8”; S and M: +3/4”; L and XL: +3/4”, -1”; 2XL: +7/8”, -1 3/8” 

 SEAM ALLOWANCE: 3/8": all seams except for - 1/4": neckline and 1/2": elbow patch 

14
GL/PD-06-03

5.6 Fabric testing methods. 

5.6.1 Compressed Volume Test Method. 

Summary: Fabric compressibility is measured by using a standard fabric area that is subjected to a 

standard pressure or force while contained in standard cylinder. The test does not account for any trim 

types that might impact a fabric’s packability in the finished form. Its purpose is to standardize fabric 

area, pressure applied, and limiting volume to determine a volume that is achieved when a particular 

fabric is exposed to a standard set of compression conditions. 

Sample: One specimen, 20” x 20”, shall be cut from the fabric to be tested. 

Apparatus: A tensile tester (in accordance with ASTM D-5034) shall be used. A compression attachment 

consisting of a lower attachment is a 3.5” inner diameter and 13” high cylinder that is etched along the 

outside of the cylinder 12” from the inner bottom of the cylinder. The upper attachment is a plunger 

made of similar material that is approximately 3.25” in diameter and drilled with holes to allow for 

airflow out during the test. 

Method: The 20” x 20” fabric specimen is folded in half once and then rolled. It is placed in the cylinder 

below the 12” etch line. The plunger is lowered to the 12” etch line and the test commences. The plunger 

descends at a rate of 24 in/min. Once a resistant force of 45 pounds is achieved the plunger shall be 

stopped and the distance traveled by the plunger is subtracted from 12” to determine the compressed 

height. The fabric should not have escaped through the small area between the inside of the cylinder and 

the plunger during the test. If it did the fabric should be removed, shaken out, re-rolled, and retested. If 

there is any indication of permanent deformation another sample should be taken. Fabric volume in the 

compresses condition is then determined by the following equation: Volume (cubic inches) = 9.621 x 

compressed height (in inches). 

5.6.2 Thermal Insulation Test. Thermal conductivity shall be tested as follows: 

Apparatus: A Reeves Brothers Thermal Conductivity tester shall be used. The tester consists of a highly 

insulated chamber containing an air circulating device and electrical heaters. One end of the chamber is 

closed by the test specimen. Electrical input controls and temperature measuring means are external. 

Procedure: A 16” x 16” test specimen is clamped to the face of the preheated test chamber with the 

insulated side of the specimen facing inwardly. Starting temperature is noted and the test is continued 

until equilibrium of the inside temperature is reached as noted by identical readings of temperature at 30 

minute intervals with a fixed electrical input of 70 watts. The test is conducted in a constant temperature 

room. 

Results: Results are reported in terms of temperature rise over room temperature. The highest the 

reading the greater the insulation value of the sample tested. 

5.6.3 Pile Height Determination: The pile and height of the fleece material shall be measured as follows: 

The test specimen shall be a 4-inch by 4-inch piece of the fabric. The specimen shall be placed on a hard, 

flat surface with the side to be evaluated facing up. The pile of the fabric shall then be brushed with a 

comb to ensure that the pile is straight up and not matted or distorted. At the cut edge of the specimen 

and using a ruler, measure the pile height extending from the plane of the knitted fabric (beginning at the 

15
GL/PD-06-03

wales and courses) to the nearest 1/32-inch. Three test specimens shall be evaluated for each side of the 

fabric. The pile height shall be the average of the three determinations made on each side of each of the 

test specimens; results shall be reported separately for each of the face and back sides of the fabric. 

 5.6.4 Water sorption and wicking. Water sorption and wicking shall be determined using the following 

procedure: 

Fabric specimens shall be conditioned in accordance with ASTM-D-1776 and tested in that environment. 

The specimen size shall be 6-inches by 6-inches; three (3), separate specimens shall be used for each of 

the face side and back side tests. A fabric shall be considered Passing only when tests on both the face 

side and the back side meet the respective test pass/fail criteria on all individual specimens tested. 

1. Face side wicking test. The test specimen shall be laid flat on a glass plate with back side up (i.e., 

inner or skin surface when used in a garment). One (1) drop of 0.10 + 0.01 milliliters of distilled water at 

70o

F + 2 oF shall be placed in the center of the test specimen using a pipettor and a stopwatch/timer 

immediately started. The test specimen shall then be immediately turned over on the glass plate with test 

specimen face side up. The diameter of the wicked water area (denoted by a darkened water mark) shall 

be measured at a total elapsed time of 10 seconds. The specimen shall be considered passing if the 

diameter of the wicked water area (darkened water mark) is equal to or greater than 1-3/16 inches. 

2. Back side sorption test. The test specimen shall be laid flat on a glass plate with back side up (i.e., 

inner or skin surface when used in a garment). One (1) drop of 0.10 + 0.01 milliliters of distilled water at 

70o

F + 2 oF shall be placed in the center of the test specimen using a pipettor and a stopwatch/timer 

immediately started. The water (denoted as a darkened water mark) shall be observed and the time for the 

water mark to disappear (water sorption, denoted as a lightened water mark approximating the shade of 

the basic material) shall be recorded. The specimen shall be considered passing if the water sorption 

(disappearance of the darkened water mark) is 10 seconds or less. 

6. PACKAGING

6.1 Packaging. For acquisition purposes, the packaging requirements shall be as specified in the contract 

or order. When actual packaging of material is to be performed by DoD or in-house contractor personnel, 

these personnel need to contact the responsible packaging activity to ascertain requisite packaging 

requirements. Packaging requirements are maintained by the Inventory Control Point’s packaging 

activities within the Military Department or Defense Agency, or within the military service’s system 

commands. Packaging data retrieval is available from the managing Military Department’s or Defense 

Agency’s automated packaging files, CD-ROM products, or by contacting the responsible packaging 

activity. 

7. NOTES. 

(This section contains information of a general or explanatory nature that may be helpful, but is not 

mandatory unless otherwise stated in the contract or purchase order.) 

7.1 Intended use. The GEN III, Fleece Jacket is for wear by soldiers for additional warmth. The jacket is 

a component of the Third Generation, Extended Cold Weather Clothing System. 

7.2 Acceptance criteria. Acceptance criteria shall be as stated in the contract or order. 

16
GL/PD-06-03

7.3 Reference documents. 

7.3.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks 

form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these 

documents shall be those listed in the issue of the department of Defense Index of Specifications and 

Standards (DoDISS) and supplement thereto, cited in solicitation. 

SPECIFICATIONS 

 MILITARY 

 MIL-T-5038 - Tape, Textile, Nylon 

 COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTION 

 A-A-50199 - Thread, Cotton Covered, Polyester Core 

 A-A-52095 - Thread, Polyester 

 A-A-55126 - Fastener Tape, Hook, and Loop 

 A-A-55634 - Fasteners, Slide 

(Copies of Military and Federal documents are available from: Standardization Documents Order Desk, 

Bldg 4D, 700 Robbins Avenue, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094) 

7.3.2 Other Government documents, drawings, and publications

FEDERAL TRADE COMMISSION 

 Rules and Regulations Under the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act 

(Copies are available online at www.ftc.gov or from the Federal Trade Commission, 600 Pennsylvania 

Avenue, N.W., Washington, DC 20580-0001) 

7.3.3 Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent 

specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issue of 

documents which are DOD adopted shall be those in the issue of the Acquisition 

Streamlining and Standardization Information System (ASSIST) database cited in the solicitation. Unless 

otherwise specified, the issues of documents not listed in the ASSIST are the documents cited in the 

solicitation. 

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS 

ASTM D-737 Standard Test Method for Air Permeability of Textile Fabrics 

ASTM D-1776 Standard Practice for Conditioning Textiles for Testing 

ASTM D-1777 Standard Test Method for Thickness of Textile Materials 

ASTM D-2594 Standard Test Method for Stretch Properties of Knitted Fabrics Having Low Power 

ASTM D-3775 Standard Test Method for Thickness of Textile Materials 

ASTM D-3776 Standard Test Method for Mass Per Unit Area (Weight) of Fabric 

ASTM D-3887 Specification for Tolerances for Knitted Fabrics 

ASTM D-5034 Standard Test Method for Breaking Force and Elongation of Textiles (Grab) 

ASTM D-6193 Stitch and Seam Types 

17
GL/PD-06-03

ASTM D-3951 Standard Practice for Commercial Packaging 

(For all inquires please contact the American Society for Testing and Materials, 100 Barr Harbor, West 

Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959). Website address http://www.astm.org. 

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS 

AATCC – 8 Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC Crockmeter Method 

AATCC – 15 Colorfastness to Perspiration-Related to ISO 105-E04 

AATCC - 16 Colorfastness to Light 

AATCC - 20 Fiber Analysis: Qualitative 

AATCC - 61 Colorfastness to Laundering, Home and Commercial: Accelerated. 

AATCC -135 Dimensional Changes in Automatic Home Laundering of Woven and Knit Fabrics 

AATCC Evaluation Procedure-2 Gray Scale for Staining 

AATCC Evaluation Procedure-9 Visual Assessment of Color Difference of Textiles 

(For all inquiries please contact the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists, P.O. Box 

12215, Triangle Park, NC 27709-2215.) 

AMERICAN NATIONAL STANDARDS INSTITUTE

ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection of Attributes 

 (For all inquires please contact the American National Standards Institute, 25 

West 43rd Street, 4th Floor, New York, NY 10036. Website address http://www.ansi.org.) 

MISCELLANEOUS

 Principle and Methods of Toxicology, A Wallace Hayes (editor), pp 394-396, 1989. 

(Copies of this document is available from Raven Press, 1185 Avenue of the Americas, New 

York, NY 10036) 

 Marzulli, F. and H. Maibach, “Contact Allergy: Predictive Testing in Humans,” 

 Advances in Modern Toxicology, Volume 4, pp 353-372, 1977. 

(Copies of this document are available from the U.S. Army Center for Health Promotion and Preventative 

Medicine, ATTN: MCHB-DC-TTE, Bldg., E-2100, Aberdeen Proving Ground, MD 21010-5422.) 

CUSTODIAN: PREPARING ACTIVITY: 

 Army – GL Army - GL 

 Project No. 8415- 

18
GL/PD-06-03

19
GL/PD-06-03

20
GL/PD-06-03

21