WE GET PEOPLE FLYING

TM

INSTRUCTION MANUAL

➤ Specifications for .40

Wingspan: 52-3/4"

Length: 48"

Wing Area: 593 sq. in.

Weight (Approx): 5 – 5.5 lbs.

Recommended Engines:

.40 – .46 2-Cycle

.50 – .56 4-Cycle

➤ Specifications for .60

Wingspan: 59"

Length: 54"

Wing Area: 738 sq. in.

Weight (Approx): 7.25 – 7.75 lbs.

Recommended Engines:

.61 – .75 2-Cycle

.65 – .80 4-Cycle

• 90% Pre-Built

• Build as Tail dragger or Tricycle Landing Gear System

• All Hardware Included
TABLE OF CONTENTS

Introduction 3

Additional Equipment Required 4

Tools and Supplies Required 4

Contents of Kit 5

Field Equipment Required 6

Optional Field Equipment 7

Section 1: Assembling the Wings 8

Section 2: Joining the Wing Halves 9

Section 3: Installing the Aileron Servos 13

Section 4: Bolt Wing to Fuselage 14

Section 5: Installing Horizontal Stabilizer 14

Section 6: Installing Vertical Fin 16

Section 7: Tail Dragger or Tricycle Landing Gear 17

Section 8: Installing the Tail Wheel Assembly 18

Section 9: Hinging the Rudder and Elevator 20

Section 10: Installing the Control Horns 20

Section 11: Installing Main Landing Gear Block — Tail Dragger 22

Section 12: Installing Main Landing Gear Block — Tricycle 23

Section 13: Installing the Main Landing Gear 23

Section 14: Installing the Nose Gear 25

Section 15: Assembling and Installing the Fuel Tank 26

Section 16: Installing the Servo Tray 28

Section 17: Installing the Engine 29

Section 18: Installing the Spinner 30

Section 19: Installing the Radio System 30

Section 20: Installing the Aileron Linkages 32

Section 21: Assembling Elevator & Rudder Pushrods 33

Section 22: Installing the Throttle Linkage 35

Section 23: Installing the Nose Wheel Linkage 36

Section 24: Control Throw Recommendation 37

Section 25: Balancing the Super Stick 37

Pre-Flight Check 38

Pre-Flight at the Flying Field 39

AMA Safety Code 40
INTRODUCTION

WARNING

Congratulations on purchasing the Hangar 9 Super Stick.

This is the ideal second airplane for modelers capable of

flying a trainer-type aircraft. In a few short evenings, this

90% pre-built aircraft will be ready for its debut at the

flying field.

This manual has been written to ensure that you achieve

the best performance and maximum enjoyment from your

Super Stick. It is important to carefully read and follow the

instructions in this manual prior to flying.

An R/C aircraft is not a toy! If misused, it can cause serious

bodily harm and damage to property. Fly only in open

areas, preferably AMA (Academy of Model Aeronautics)

approved flying sites, following all instructions included

with your radio and engine.
ADDITIONAL EQUIPMENT REQUIRED

TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED

➤ Equipment Needed

4 Channel Transmitter (minimum)

5 Standard Servos

Standard 450 – 650 mAh Receiver Battery Pack

2 Aileron Extensions and/or 1Y-harness

➤ Note: If more than a 4-channel radio is used,

than Y-harness is not necessary.

Super Stick 40:

.40 –.46 2-Cycle Engines

.45–.56 4-Cycle Engines

Super Stick 60:

.61–.75 2-Cycle Engines

.65–.80 4-Cycle Engines

➤ Engine Recommendations

➤ Recommended JR Systems

JR F400 FM (Optional Y-harness required)

JR XF642FM

JR XP783

JR XP8103 

(5 servos required)

➤ Recommended 2-Cycle Engines

Super Stick 40:

Thunder Tiger Pro .40

Thunder Tiger Pro .46

Thunder Tiger .42 Sport

Webra Speed .40 Sport

Super Stick 40:

Saito .50

Saito .50GK

Saito .56

Saito .56GK

Super Stick 60:

Thunder Tiger Pro .60

ASP .61

ASP .75

Super Stick 60:

Saito .65

Saito .65GK

Saito .80

Saito .80GK

➤ Adhesives

Thick CA (cyanoacrylate) glue

6-minute epoxy

30-minute epoxy

Blue Locktite 242

➤ Tools

Drill 

Drill bits:

1/16", 3/32”, 5/32"

Phillips screwdrivers

Z-bend pliers

Pliers

Small round file

Moto-tool 

with sanding drum

Hobby knife

with #11 blade

Mixing stick 

Epoxy brush

90 d T i l

Medium sandpaper

Masking tape

Straight edge

Measuring devices

(ruler, tape measure,

90 ̊ triangle)

Scissors

Paper towels

Wax paper

Rubbing alcohol

Felt tipped pen

Fuel tubing

Clips (clothes pins,

bi d li )

➤ Recommended 4-Cycle Engines

Thunder Tiger .40 Thunder Tiger .61

Saito .50 Saito .65
CONTENTS OF KIT

➤ Covered Parts

Fuselage

Left wing half with aileron

Right wing half with aileron

Vertical stabilizer with rudder

Horizontal stabilizer with elevator

➤ Small Parts

Pushrod and Accessories

1/8" plywood die-cut parts

Main landing gear

Nose landing gear

Spinner

Hardware bag

Plastic parts tree

Foam wheels (3)

Fuel tank and hardware

Tail wheel assembly

Landing gear block
FIELD EQUIPMENT REQUIRED

Airplane Fuel

Glow Driver

12V Sealed Battery

12V Starter

Glow Plug

Glow Plug Wrench

Propeller

Manual Fuel Pump
OPTIONAL FIELD EQUIPMENT

4-Way Wrench

Extra Glow Plugs

Power Panel

Field Box

Misc. Tools

Cleaner & Towels

After-Run Fuel
➤ Note: The ailerons are attached to the wing halves

from the factory, but the hinges are not glued in

place. The right aileron must go with the right wing

half and the left aileron must go with the left wing half.

Be sure to mark the aileron for correct identification

and top and bottom before you take it apart from the

wing.

1. Carefully remove the aileron from the right wing

panel by pulling straight out with even pressure.

2. Remove all four hinges from the aileron. Flex the

hinges accordingly so that they move freely.

3. Mix a small amount of 30-minute epoxy. Using either

a mixing stick or an epoxy brush, apply the epoxy

sparingly inside each hinge slot on the aileron.

Additionally, apply a small amount of epoxy to the top

and bottom half of each hinge. Insert the hinges into

the aileron accordingly until the hinge line is even with

the leading edge of the aileron.

4. Wipe off any excess epoxy using a paper towel and

rubbing alcohol.

➤ Hint: Lightly coat both ends of the ailerons with

epoxy, if they don’t have covering on them; this will

prevent the ailerons from becoming fuel-soaked. You

can mix a small amount of rubbing alcohol (one part

alcohol to three parts epoxy) into the epoxy to thin

it. This will make for a thinner coat of epoxy which

prevents a thick build-up on the ends of the ailerons.

This is a common way to “fuel proof” bare wood.

5. The bolt holes on each wing half are pre-drilled.

Locate the holes that are under the covering and

carefully cut-out the covering with your hobby knife.

Lightly coat the inside of the holes with your thinned

epoxy. Only use just enough to have a thin coat. Too

much will not allow the wing bolts to pass through.

➤ Parts Needed

Right wing panel with aileron & hinges

Left wing panel with aileron & hinges

➤ Tools & Adhesives Needed

30-minute epoxy

Paper towels

Rubbing alcohol

Mixing stick

Epoxy brush

Ruler

1 ASSEMBLING THE WINGS
1 ASSEMBLING THE WINGS continued

6. Mix a small amount of 30-minute epoxy to install the

aileron with affixed hinges onto the wing half. Apply

epoxy to the top and bottom of the remaining half of

each hinge. Using either a mixing stick or an epoxy

brush, apply epoxy inside each hinge slot on the wing.

7. Replace the aileron on the right wing half, ensuring

that the hinges are properly aligned. The gap between

the aileron and the wing should remain a constant

1/16", or as tight as possible so the movement of the

aileron is not impaired.

8. Carefully wipe off any excess epoxy using a paper

towel and rubbing alcohol.

9. Repeat the procedures above for the left wing half.

10. Allow the epoxy to fully cure before proceeding to

the next section.

1. Carefully remove the three individual spar joiners

from the die-cut plywood sheet. Two of the spar

joiners are the same size and one is smaller. The two

larger pieces are the main spar joiners. The smaller

one of the three is the sub-spar joiner.

2. Mix a small amount, approximately 1/4 ounce, of 

6-minute epoxy. Using either a mixing stick or epoxy

brush, apply the epoxy to one side of one of the main

spar joiners. Place the epoxied spar joiner on top of

the remaining main spar joiner. Align the upper and

lower edges of the spar joiners as well as the area

which has the slight “V” shape.

2 JOINING WING HALVES

6-minute epoxy

30-minute epoxy

Clips (e.g., clothespins,

binder clips)

Rubbing alcohol

Paper towels

Masking tape

Hobby knife

String

Wax paper

Ruler

Pencil

Medium sandpaper

Mixing stick

Epoxy brush

Felt tipped pen

➤ Parts Needed

Right wing panel from Section 1

Left wing panel from Section 1

2 main joiners

1 sub spar joiner

Wing center tape

➤ Tools & Adhesives Needed

sub-spar joiner

main spar joiners
2 JOINING WING HALVES continued

3. Clamp the two spar joiners together using three

clothespins or clips. Ensure that the joiners remain

aligned and that the clamps are firmly attached.

4. Wipe away the excess epoxy using a paper towel and

rubbing alcohol, being careful not to disturb the

alignment of the wing joiners.

➤ Note: The excess epoxy should be removed before it

cures.

5. Allow the epoxy to cure completely prior to

removing the clamps.

6. Trial fit the main spar and the sub-spar joiner into one

of the wing panels. It should insert easily. Now slide

the other wing half onto the main spar joiner and subspar until the wing panels meet.

7. Check for the correct dihedral angle. Place the wing

on a large, flat surface with one wing panel resting on

the surface. The opposite wing tip should be exactly

3/8" (for .40) or 1/2" (for .60) from the surface 

(see illustrations below). If necessary, sand the main

spar joiner and sub-spar until this is achieved.

8. Before final assembly of the wing halves, it is now a

good time to install a method of pulling through your

aileron servo wires. Locate on each wing half the

location of the servo. You will be able to identify this

by a solid square shape with a rectangle cut-out in the

center of the wing half under the covering that is

roughly the size of the bottom of your servo. Take

your hobby knife, with a sharp blade, and cut-out the

covering were the servo will be installed. You do not

need to install the servos and servo extensions at this

time, this is simply a method to pull them through the

wing when needed.

.40 size

.60 size

1/2 inches

3/8 inches
➤ Hint:You can feed music wire or an extra pushrod

that you may have around (or take a coat hanger and

straighten it) through the pre-cut root rib opening

(the end were the spar joiners are located). Carefully

insert it inside the wing half and through each of the

pre-cut openings of the wing ribs until it is at the

opening for the servo (reach inside the servo opening

to retrieve). Tape a piece of string to it and carefully

pull it through, leaving both ends accessible (a shoe

string works well for this). Now take a piece of tape

and tape the ends of the string to the wing half. Do

this to both wing halves.

9. Mix up approximately three ounces of 30-minute

epoxy.

➤ Note:When joining the wing halves, it is extremely

important to use plenty of epoxy.

10. Use a mixing stick or scrap piece of wood to apply a

generous amount of epoxy into the main and sub-spar

joiner cavity of one wing half. Ensure that the epoxy

is applied to all sides of the cavity wall.

11. Coat one half of the spar joiners with epoxy. Install

the epoxy-coated side of the spar joiners into the

spar joiner cavity. Be sure to install the joiners all the

way into the spar cavity. Make sure the “V” is

positioned correctly, so that it creates positive

dihedral in the wing.

12. Apply a generous amount of epoxy into the joiner

cavity of the other wing half.

2 JOINING WING HALVES continued
2 JOINING WING HALVES continued

13. Smear epoxy on all sides of the exposed area of the

spar joiners and uniformly coat both wing roots with

epoxy.

14. Carefully slide the two wing halves together ensuring

that they are accurately aligned. Firmly press the two

halves together, allowing the excess epoxy to run out.

Using rubbing alcohol and a paper towel, clean off the

excess epoxy. There should not be any gap between

the wing halves.

15. Apply masking tape to hold the wing together

securely while the epoxy cures. Place the wing on a

large, flat surface. With one wing panel lying flat on

the surface, the opposite wing tip should be propped

up exactly 3/8" (for .40 size) or 1/2" (for .60 size)

from the surface. Allow the wing joint to dry

overnight.

➤ Note: It is a good idea to place a sheet of waxed

paper under the center joint of the wing so that any

excess epoxy will not adhere to the surface of the

work area.

16. When the wing center joint is completely dry, remove

the masking tape and apply the included trim tape to

cover the center joint. Be really careful to match the

stripes on the wing center tape to the stripes on top

of the wing.
➤ Parts Needed

Assemble wing

2 standard size servos with mounting hardware

2 servo extensions (6" or 9" )

➤ Tools & Adhesives Needed

Hobby knife

Masking tape

3 INSTALLING THE AILERON SERVOS

1. Install the recommended servo hardware supplied

with your radio system onto your servos (grommets

and eyelets). Install a minimum 6" servo extension

onto each of your aileron servos.

➤ Hint: It is always good procedure to tape the

extension connector and the servo lead connector

together to insure that they will not become

unplugged inside the wing.

2. With the servo extension securely fastened to the

servo lead, tape the end of the servo extension to the

string you installed onto the end that exits were the

servo will be installed.

3. Carefully pull the string through the wing until you

have the servo extension plug exit at the center of

the wing at the wing root.

4. Install the servo into the aileron servo slot.

➤ Note: It does not matter which way the servo is

installed into the slot; in other words, if the servo

horn is closer to the aileron.

5. Securely fasten the servo in the aileron slot with four

of the servo mounting screws supplied with your

radio system.

6. Follow steps 1 – 5 for the other aileron servo.
➤ Parts Needed

Fuselage

4 wing bolts & washers

➤ Tools & Adhesives Needed

Hobby knife or round file

Phillips screwdriver

➤ Parts Needed

Horizontal Stabilizer

Fuselage

Assembled wing

➤ Tools & Adhesives Needed

5 INSTALLING HORIZONTAL STABILIZER

➤ Note:Your Hangar 9 Super Stick comes from the

factory with pre-installed blind nuts in the fuselage

and pre-drilled holes in the wing for bolting the wing

to the fuselage.

1. Place the wing onto the wing saddle of the fuselage,

approximately aligning the wing center with the

center line of fuselage.

2. Insert each of the wing bolts into the wing.

3. Carefully thread each bolt just a few turns into the

installed blind nuts of the fuselage.

➤ Note: If the wing bolts are not perfectly aligned and

you can’t get bolts to thread into the blind nuts,

carefully use a round file and enlarge the pre-drilled

hole in the wing on the bolt hole that is not exactly

aligned. If you have to do this, it only requires that a

slight amount of material be removed. The wing bolts

may be hard to turn when you first install them, but it

will get easier in time. Be careful not to cross-thread

the bolts into the blind nuts.

4. After each wing bolt is started, tighten each bolt a

little at a time. Continue with each bolt until the wing

is securely tightened to the fuselage. Be careful not to

over-tighten.

➤ Note: Leave the wing on the fuselage for installing

the horizontal stabilizer.

➤ Note: Before assembling the tail, remove the elevator

and the hinges from the horizontal stabilizer. The

hinges and elevator will be installed later.

1. Measure and mark the center of the horizontal

stabilizer on its leading edge.

2. If you removed it from the previous section of this

manual, install the wing onto the fuselage.

Hobby knife

Ruler

Felt tipped pen

Pencil

30-minute epoxy

Paper towels

Rubbing alcohol

Mixing stick

Epoxy brush

Masking tape

4 BOLT WING TO FUSELAGE
5 INSTALLING HORIZONTAL STABILIZER continued

3. On the bottom of the aft end of the fuselage you will

find a notch for the horizontal stabilizer to be placed.

Make a center mark on the front of the saddle on the

fuselage and place the horizontal stabilizer into the

horizontal stabilizer saddle, aligning the two marks

you just made. Tape the leading edge of the stabilizer

to the fuselage to secure it for now.

4. Align the horizontal stabilizer by measuring from a

fixed point on the wing to the outside of the trailing

edge tip of the horizontal stabilizer. Be sure that the

leading edge stays on its center mark. Adjust the

stabilizer until you have an equal distance on both the

right and left sides of the stabilizer to the wing.

5. When you are satisfied with the alignment of the tail

to the wing, carefully mark the position with a pencil

at the junction where the horizontal stabilizer meets

the fuselage. The pencil should leave a slight

indentation in the covering.

6. Remove the horizontal stabilizer from the fuselage.

Using your hobby knife and a straight edge, carefully

cut the covering approximately 1/16" inside the lines

you drew. It is very important that you do not

press hard enough to cut into the wood as

doing so could weaken the horizontal stabilizer.

7. Mix approximately 1/4 ounce of 30-minute epoxy to

install the horizontal stabilizer. Using an epoxy brush

or mixing stick, spread the epoxy onto the top of the

horizontal stabilizer where it comes into contact with

the fuselage.

8. Lay the stabilizer onto a flat work surface and position

the fuselage onto it, making sure it is centered and

aligned as per Step 3 and 4.

➤ Hint: Reference the bare wood that you just exposed

to re-align the stabilizer. Place a heavy object (that

won’t damage the fuselage structure) on top of the

fuselage to press the stabilizer and fuselage together.

➤ Note: Be sure that the horizontal stabilizer and

fuselage are assembled on a good, flat surface and that

they are level with each other.

9. Wipe off any excess epoxy using a paper towel and

rubbing alcohol. Allow the epoxy to cure fully before

proceeding to the next step.
6

1. On the rear of the fuselage, a slot is pre-cut in the

wood structure for the vertical fin. Using a sharp

hobby knife, cut away the covering on the top rear of

the fuselage where the vertical fin inserts into the

fuselage.

2. Remove the rudder and hinges from the vertical fin 

if you have not already done so. These will be

assembled later.

3. Insert the vertical fin into the slot in the top of the

fuselage and check to make sure it is fully seated

down against the horizontal stabilizer. Make sure the

rear of the vertical fin (where the hinge slots are

located) is aligned with the rear of the fuselage.

➤ Note: The elevator should not be hinged to the

horizontal stabilizer at this time. It will also be

assembled later. Carefully mark with a pencil the

position of the vertical fin on both sides where it exits

the fuselage.

4. Remove the vertical fin and carefully cut away the

covering with a sharp hobby knife inside the lines you

marked in Step 3. Do not cut into the wood of

the fin when cutting the covering.

5. Mix up approximately 1/4 ounce of 30-minute epoxy

and apply it the vertical fin where it comes in contact

with the fuselage. Also apply epoxy to the base of the

fin where it comes in contact with the horizontal

stabilizer.

6. Insert the fin into the fuselage and wipe away any

excess epoxy.

7. Using a 90 degree triangle, make sure the fin is

perpendicular to the horizontal stabilizer. Use

masking tape to hold the vertical fin in place until it’s

completely dry.

➤ Parts Needed

Vertical tail

Fuselage

➤ Tools & Adhesives Needed

30-minute epoxy

Hobby knife

Pencil

Masking tape

Rubbing alcohol

Paper towels

90 degree triangle

Epoxy brush

Mixing stick

INSTALLING VERTICAL FIN
➤ Important! Please Read: Before proceeding any

further in the assembly of your Super Stick, you will

need to decide whether you want it to be equipped

with a tail dragger or tricycle landing gear system.

Experienced pilots prefer the tail dragger

configuration as its reduced weight and cleaner

aerodynamics give slightly better performance. The

position of the main gear is quite a bit ahead of the

center of gravity so nose overs are minimized.

If this is your first sport airplane, you’ll want to

consider the tricycle set-up. It provides even more

stable ground handling at only a slight weight and drag

penalty.

WHY A TAIL DRAGGER?

➤ Pros:

• Lighter weight — eliminates nose gear, nose 

wheel and steering linkage

• Easier to install — no nose gear linkage

• Less aerodynamic drag — no nose gear to cut

through the air

• Cleaner looks

➤ Cons:

• Can nose over in tall grass 

• Ground handling is slightly less stable, requiring 

some right rudder input on takeoffs

• More likely to break the prop on rough landings

WHY A TRICYCLE?

➤ Pros:

• Super stable ground handling

• Superior for rough grass fields

• Improved prop protection

➤ Cons:

• Heavier — additional nose gear assembly

• More work to install — installation of linkage 

to nose gear for steering control

7 TAIL DRAGGER OR TRICYCLE LANDING GEAR
1. Insert three hinges into the pre-cut slots of the

rudder (do not glue at this time) and install the

rudder to the vertical fin.

2. Take the tail wheel assembly and place it in the

location to be installed on the bottom side of

horizontal stabilizer as shown.

3. The tail wheel’s guide wire will be installed into the

rudder. Mark the position where the hole is to be

drilled into the leading edge of the rudder for the

steering rod.

4. Remove the rudder. Using a 3/32" drill bit, drill into

the exact center of the leading edge of the rudder to

accept the tail wheel guide wire as shown.

5. Re-install the rudder with the tail wheel assembly and

mark the screw location for the tail wheel mounting

plate.

➤ Note: Using your hobby knife, make a small notch in

the horizontal stabilizer to allow the tail wheel

bracket to lay completely flat on the stabilizer.

6. Remove the rudder from the vertical fin and drill a

1/16" hole in the two screw locations. Install the tail

wheel assembly to the fuselage using the two 2.6mm

wood screws.

➤ Parts Needed

Tail wheel assembly

Tail wheel

2.6mm wood screws

Fuselage

Rudder

Elevator

Hinges

Tail wheel collar

Locking screw

➤ Tools & Adhesives Needed

Phillips screwdriver

Drill

Drill bits: 3/32", 1/16"

Hobby knife

Pencil

8 INSTALLING THE TAIL WHEEL ASSEMBLY
18 ASSEMBLING THE WINGS INSTALLING THE TAIL WHEEL ASSEMBLY continued

7. Temporarily install the rudder onto the vertical fin,

making sure the tail wheel guide wire is inserted into

the hole you previously drilled. Do not glue the

hinges at this time.

8. Take the elevator and insert the four hinges into the

hinge slots (do not glue the hinges at this time).

Temporarily install it onto the horizontal stabilizer.

9. Mark with your pencil the leading edge of the elevator

at the point where it contacts the tail wheel wire.

10. Remove the elevator. Using your hobby knife,

carefully cut a notch, at the mark on the elevator, the

same size as the tail wheel wire. Make the notch as

small as possible. Trial fit the elevator back onto the

horizontal stabilizer until you are satisfied with the fit.

Remove the elevator when done.

➤ Note: All gaps in the hinge lines of the control

surfaces should be as minimal as possible. No gap 

is best.

11. Install the tail wheel onto the tail wheel assembly and

secure it with the supplied tail wheel collar and screw.
9 HINGING THE RUDDER AND ELEVATOR

➤ Parts Needed

Fuselage

Rudder

Elevator

Hinges

➤ Tools & Adhesives Needed

30-minute epoxy

Mixing stick

Paper towels

Rubbing alcohol

➤ Parts Needed

Control horns

Control horn backplates

Control horn screws

Fuselage

Wing

➤ Tools & Adhesives Needed

Drill

Drill bit: 1/16"

Felt tipped pen or pencil

Phillips screwdriver

Ruler

1. Take the 3 hinges for the rudder and flex them

accordingly so they move freely.

2. Mix a small amount of 30-minute epoxy. Using either

a mixing stick or a piece of scrap wood, apply the

epoxy sparingly inside each hinge slot on the rudder.

Additionally, apply a small amount of epoxy to the top

and bottom half of each hinge. Insert the hinges into

the rudder until the hinge line is even with the leading

edge of the rudder.

3. Apply epoxy to the remaining half of each hinge and

into the hinge slots in the vertical fin as well. Replace

the rudder onto the vertical fin.

➤ Note: Be sure to insert the tail wheel wire guide into

the rudder.

4. Carefully wipe away any excess epoxy using a paper

towel and rubbing alcohol.

5. Repeat this procedure to install the elevator to the

horizontal stabilizer.

10 INSTALLING THE CONTROL HORNS

➤ Important:When installing the control horns, it is

important that the holes in the control horns where

the pushrod attaches are directly in-line with the

control surface hinge line.

1. To locate the elevator control horns, measure over

1/2" to the right from the center of the tail section on

the fuselage. Mark the elevator as shown with a felt

tipped pen or a pencil. This mark will be the center of

the elevator control horn.
10 INSTALLING THE CONTROL HORNS continued

2. Place the center of the control horn on the elevator

at the mark made in the previous step. Mark the hole

positions of the control horn.

3. Remove the control horn and drill two 1/16" holes

through the elevator as marked.

4. Attach the elevator control horn using the hardware

provided (two screws and backplate) and fasten in

place using a Phillips screwdriver.

5. Measure up 1/2" from the fuselage on the left side of

the rudder. Mark this location using a felt tipped pen

or a pencil. This mark will serve as the center for the

rudder control horn.

6. Center the control horn over the mark you have just

made and using a felt tipped pen or a pencil, mark the

mounting hole locations through both holes onto the

rudder.

7. Drill these holes with a 1/16" drill bit and install the

rudder control horn using the two screws and

backplate provided.
10 INSTALLING THE CONTROL HORNS continued

➤ Parts Needed

Landing gear block

Fuselage

➤ Tools & Adhesives Needed

6-minute or 30-minute epoxy

Mixing stick or epoxy brush

Pencil

Medium sandpaper

11 INSTALLING THE MAIN LANDING GEAR BLOCK — TAIL DRAGGER

8. Turn the wing upside down. From the aileron servo

control horn that is attached to your servo (which

was installed earlier in this manual), mark the

location of the control horn directly in-line with the

control arm as shown. Remember to locate the

control horn holes so they are directly above the

hinge line.

9. Repeat this procedure for the other aileron linkage.

➤ Note: If you are building your Super Stick with a

Tricycle gear system, skip this section.

1. Trial fit the landing gear block in the front of the

second former (F-2) of the fuselage. Take note of which

side of the block is down as this is the side to which

you will apply epoxy. (The firewall is what the engine

mount is installed onto and is the first former, F-1.)

➤ Note: The landing gear block will have a tight fit

against the fuselage sides. That way it will work with

either of the two landing gear setups. Sand the block

to fit.

2. After you have trial fit the landing gear block, mix up

approximately 1/4 ounce of 6-minute (or 30-minute)

epoxy.

3. Spread a generous amount of epoxy onto the bottom

of the landing gear block. Place the landing gear block

in the location for your main landing gear. Press firmly

into place and allow to dry.
➤ Parts Needed

Landing gear block

Fuselage

➤ Tools & Adhesives Needed

6-minute or 30-minute epoxy

Mixing stick or epoxy brush 

Pencil

1. Take the landing gear block and trial fit it in front of

the servo tray former of the fuselage. The servo tray

former is the third former back from the firewall of

the fuselage. Take note of which side of the block is

down as this is the side to which you will apply epoxy.

(The firewall is what the engine mount is installed

onto and is the first former, F-1.)

➤ Note: The landing gear block will not have a tight fit

against the fuselage sides. That way it will work with

either of the two landing gear setups. Sand the block

to fit.

2. After you have trial fit the landing gear block, mix up

approximately 1/4 ounce of 6-minute (or 30-minute)

epoxy.

3. Spread a generous amount of epoxy onto the bottom

of the landing gear block. Place the landing gear block

in the location for your main landing gear. Press firmly

into place and allow to dry.

1. Attach the wheels to the aluminum landing gear using

the long 4 x 20mm screws. Note that each screw

passed through the wheel and then through a 4mm

washer, a 4mm nut, the landing gear and finally into a

second 4mm nut.

➤ Note: It is a good idea to put a second nut on the

end of the bolt. Be sure to use Blue Locktite 242 to

keep the nut from loosening.

12 INSTALLING THE MAIN LANDING GEAR BLOCK — TRICYCLE GEAR

➤ Parts Needed

Main landing gear

Fuselage

4 x 20mm bolts

6 nuts

Small wood screw 

(not supplied — tail dragger only)

➤ Tools & Adhesives Needed

Felt tipped pen or pencil

Hobby knife

Drill

Drill bit: 1/16”, 5/32”

Phillips screwdriver

13 INSTALLING THE MAIN LANDING GEAR
13 INSTALLING THE MAIN LANDING GEAR

2 . Locate the three hole indentations in the bottom of

the fuselage that are directly underneath where you

installed the landing gear block inside the fuselage.

➤ Note: If you are building your Super Stick as a tail

dragger, use a small wood screw (like a servo

mounting screw) for the middle hole of the landing

gear.

➤ Hint: Do not use the supplied bolt in this middle

location as it will interfere with the fuel tank. Instead,

use a small wood screw (not supplied).

3. From the bottom of the fuselage, drill out the two

outside holes with a 5/32" drill bit through the landing

gear block. Drill the middle hole using an 1/16" drill

bit.

4. Bolt the landing gear onto the fuselage with the

included hardware. Take the bolt and insert through

the landing gear and secure it with another washer

and a nut on the inside of the fuselage.
ASSEMBLING THE WINGS

➤ Parts Needed

Nose gear

Nose gear control horn with 3mm screw

5/32" wheel collar with 3mm screw (3)

Nose wheel

Nose gear mount

➤ Tools & Adhesives Needed

Phillips screwdriver

Blue Locktite 242

Drill

Drill bit: 1/16"

Moto-tool

➤ Note: If you are building your Super Stick as a tail

dragger, skip to the next section.

1. Locate the nose gear, nose gear control horn, nose

gear mount, one 5/32" wheel collar, and two 2.6mm

screws.

2. With the screw hole facing forward, slide the nose

gear control horn onto the straight end of the nose

gear so the control horn is situated in the flat spot on

the gear next to the coil.

➤ Note: If you do not have a flat spot on your landing

gear, you can easily make a flat spot using a Moto-tool.

3. Install the nose gear mount flush with the bottom of

firewall. Drill 1/16" holes and install wood screws.

➤ Important: Make sure the guide hole in the mounting

bracket is directly in line with the gear hole in the

engine mount.

4. Place a 5/32" wheel collar between the nose gear

mount and the motor mount. Insert the nose gear

assembly up through the nose gear mount until the

coil is just below the bottom of the fuselage.

5. Adjust the nose gear control horn until the arm is

parallel with the firewall. Apply Blue Locktite 242 to a

3mm screw and secure the steering arm in place.

6. Secure the remaining wheel collar using Blue Locktite

242 and a 3mm screw.

7. Install the front nose wheel using the supplied collar

and screw.

➤ Important: Be sure the nose wheel is aligned

perpendicular to the nose gear control horn as

shown.

14 INSTALLING THE NOSE GEAR
➤ Parts Needed

Fuel tank

Fuel tubing 

(no supplied)

Fuel klunk

Aluminum tube, short 

(pickup)

Aluminum tube, long 

(vent)

Silicone tubing

Rubber stopper

Long self tapping screw

Fuselage

➤ Tools & Adhesives Needed

Hobby knife

Phillips screwdriver

1. Locate the fuel tank and the fuel tank accessories.

2. Insert the short aluminum tube into one of the open

holes in the black rubber stopper so that an equal

amount of the tube extends from either side. This

tube will be used as the fuel tank pickup tube.

3. Locate the longer aluminum tube and bend it carefully

using your fingers as shown. This tube will be the fuel

tank vent tube.

4. Slide this tube into the remaining hole in the black

rubber stopper. It is easier if the tube is inserted

through the rear of the stopper, with the straight

portion first.

5. Slide the two plastic caps over the tubes as shown.

Note the orientation of the caps. The small inside cap

and the raised center face the black rubber stopper.

The large outside cap with the raised center face away

from the black rubber stopper. Insert the self tapping

screw into the end of cap and tighten slightly.

15 ASSEMBLING & INSTALLING THE FUEL TANK
15 ASSEMBLING & INSTALLING THE FUEL TANK continued

6. Locate the silicone fuel tubing and the metal fuel

klunk. Insert the fuel klunk into one end of the fuel

tubing. This assembly will be used for the fuel pickup

inside the fuel tank.

7. Install the open end of the fuel tubing on the shorter

aluminum tubing.

8. Carefully insert the assembly into the fuel tank and

press the fuel tank cap on firmly. Note the position of

the vent tube. To function properly the vent tube

must be positioned at the top of the tank.

➤ Note: It is important to ensure that the fuel tank

klunk does not touch the rear of the fuel tank. If it

does, simply cut a small portion off of the silicone fuel

tubing until the klunk no longer reaches the rear of

the tank.

9. It is important to note that the stopper is mounted

closer to one edge of the fuel tank than the other.

This “closer edge” is the top of the fuel tank.

➤ Important: Remember which tube is the fuel tank

pickup and which is the vent so you will properly

connect fuel lines to the engine.

10. Cut away the covering in the center of the firewall in

the middle of the engine mount.

11. Place the foam fuel tank collar around the neck of the

fuel tank and press the fuel tank into the fuselage

firmly against the firewall.

12. Place the tank into the fuselage and press it into

position until the stopper on the tank inserts into the

hole in the firewall. Connect 5" pieces of fuel line to

the installed tank.
➤ Parts Needed

Fuselage

Plywood servo tray

3 servos

➤ Tools & Adhesives Needed

Hobby knife or round file

6-minute epoxy

Epoxy brush

1. Remove the plywood servo tray from the die-cut

plywood sheet.

2. Trial fit the throttle, elevator and rudder servos in the

servo tray. Depending upon the servos utilized, it may

be necessary to enlarge the openings in the tray

slightly. To do so, use a file or sharp hobby knife

accordingly.

3. After the proper servo fit has been achieved, remove

the three servos from the servo tray. Trial fit the

servo tray into the fuselage, noting the correct

orientation. The single servo cut-out should be

closest to the front of the fuselage.

➤ Note: The tray should seat snugly into the notches in

the servo tray support and fuselage former. If it

doesn’t, remove a small portion of the tab from the

servo tray using a file or sharp hobby knife.

4. Mix a small amount, approximately 1/8 ounce, of 

6-minute epoxy. Using an epoxy brush, apply epoxy to

the servo tray in the areas that will come in contact

with the servo tray support and the fuselage sides.

Install the servo tray into the fuselage, noting the

correct orientation as described in Step 3 of this

section.

16 INSTALLING THE SERVO TRAY

rudder

elevator elevator throttle throttle
➤ Parts Needed

Engine

Engine mounting bracket (2)

Engine mounting screws and nuts (4 each)

Fuselage

➤ Tools & Adhesives Needed

Phillips screwdriver

Blue Locktite 242

1. Remove the two engine mounting brackets, four

4 x 20mm screws and four 4mm nuts from the

hardware bag.

2. Position the engine on the motor mount so the

center line of the engine is in line with the center line

of the fuselage.

3. Place one engine mounting bracket, across each of the

engine mounting lugs as shown.

4. Insert one 4 x 20mm screw into each of the engine

mounting bracket holes. Press one of the 4mm nuts

into the corresponding receptacle on the bottom of

the motor mount. Apply Blue Locktite 242 to secure

the nut in place and firmly tighten the screw.

5. Install the fuel tube from the fuel tank pickup line to

the carburetor fuel nipple. The vent line will be

installed onto the pressure nipple after the muffler is

installed.

➤ Hint: Do not install the muffler to the engine until

after the throttle linkage is installed.

17 INSTALLING THE ENGINE
1. Remove the propeller nut and prop washer from the

engine. Install the spinner backplate on the crankshaft,

as shown.

2. Place the propeller onto the crankshaft so it seats

correctly against the spinner backplate. Next, install

the washer and the prop nut onto the crankshaft and

tighten securely.

3. Attach the spinner to the spinner backplate using the

two screws provided in the hardware bag.

➤ Note: Be sure not to over-tighten the spinner screws

as doing so would damage the spinner screws.

1. Install the rubber grommets and eyelets in the three

remaining servos. Position the servos in the fuselage

servo tray as shown, noting the location of the output

horns. Screw the servos in place using 12 servo

screws, which are included with the servos.

➤ Parts Needed

Spinner

Spinner backplate

Spinner screws (2)

Fuselage

➤ Tools & Adhesives Needed

Phillips screwdriver

➤ Parts Needed

4-channel radio system with 3 servos 

and hardware (not included)

Fuselage

Radio packing foam (not included)

Antenna tube (optional, not included)

Y-harness (optional, must have if using a 

4-channel radio)

➤ Tools & Adhesives Needed

Phillips screwdriver

Hobby knife

Drill

Drill bit: 1/16"

19 INSTALLING THE RADIO SYSTEM

18 INSTALLING THE SPINNER
2. Use radio packing foam (available at your local hobby

dealer) when you install the receiver and battery.

With a sharp hobby knife, cut a solid layer of foam the

size of the compartment that is in front of the servo

tray. Cut out another layer of foam that is identical in

size, however, cut an opening in the center of this

foam so it will accept the receiver battery pack. Place

another solid layer of foam on top of this layer. Cut

another layer of foam to accept the receiver. The final

layer of foam should be solid.

3. Place the layers of foam with the battery and receiver

in their respective locations in the front compartment

of the fuselage as shown. Route the antenna back

through the fuselage using an antenna tube (not

included) or route it outside the fuselage back to the

vertical stabilizer.

4. The switch should be mounted on the left side of the

fuselage, away from the exhaust.

➤ Hint: Remove the switch plate to use as a template.

5. Drill the two mounting holes as marked using a 1/16"

drill bit. Using your hobby knife, carefully cut out for

the receiver switch between the screw holes.

6. Reposition the switch plate as shown and place the

switch on the inside of the fuselage. Using the two

screws supplied with the switch, attach the switch to

the fuselage.

19 INSTALLING THE RADIO SYSTEM continued
➤ Parts Needed

Wing

Heat shrink tubing

Clevises

Threaded rods

➤ Tools & Adhesives Needed

Z-bend pliers

Felt tipped pen

Thick CA glue

Hobby knife

Heat gun

Wire cutters

1. Locate two of the threaded rods. Thread a clevis at

least 20 turns, onto each rod. Be sure they are not

the longer rods.

2. Install the clevis with the attached linkage to the

aileron control horn. Center the servo horn as

shown and, using a felt tipped pen, make a mark on

the linkage where the Z-bend will be inserted into the

horn.

3. Make a Z-bend in the linkage and cut off the excess

linkage.

➤ Important: Do not discard the piece of linkage you

just cut off; this will be used to make the rudder and

elevator pushrods.

4. Center the servo horn and install the Z-bend into the

outer-most hole of a standard size.

5. Attach the linkages onto their respective aileron

horns.

➤ Note: It is a good idea to place a piece of fuel tubing

over the clevises as shown. This will provide extra

insurance against the clevises accidentally coming

open.

6. With the servo arm centered as shown, adjust the

aileron linkage until the aileron is exactly in the

neutral position. Follow this procedure for both

aileron linkages.

20 INSTALLING THE AILERON LINKAGES

2 Long threaded rods (throttle, nose gear)

5 Threaded rods (ailerons, rudder, elevator)

2 Wooden dowels (pushrods)

2 Heat shrink tubing

1 Control horn/clevis parts tree

TOTAL PUSHROD & ACCESSORIES 

LIST FOR SUPER STICK
➤ Parts Needed

Fuselage

2 threaded rods

2 rods cut off from aileron linkage (Section 20)

Heat shrink tubing

Clevis

Z-bend pliers

Felt tipped pen

Thick CA glue

Hobby knife

Heat gun

Wire cutters

Ruler

Masking tape

➤ Tools & Adhesives Needed

1. Locate one of the threaded rods, one piece of the

extra rod from Section 20, one piece of the yellow

heat shrink tubing, one clevis and one of the balsa

pushrod dowels.

2. Cut the heat shrink into two equal pieces with a

sharp hobby knife or a pair of scissors.

3. Carefully cut away the covering on the top left side of

the fuselage next to the vertical fin for the rudder and

the right side for the elevator — this is where the

pushrods will exit.

➤ Note: If the fuselage does not have a pre-cut slots

under the covering for the pushrods to exit from,

carefully cut a notch in the fuselage as shown.

4. To determine the approximate length of the pushrods,

temporarily tape a rod (using masking tape) with the a

threaded end, half the distance of the rod, onto the

wooden dowel. Then take the piece of rod you cut

off the aileron linkage and tape it onto the other end

of the wooden dowel. Make sure you position the

rod past the pre-drilled hole in the wooden dowel.

➤ Hint: Do not put any tape around the rod and dowel

where the pre-drilled hole is located in the wooden

dowel as you are going to need to make a mark on

the rod.

5. Thread a clevis at least 12 turns onto the threaded

rod. Position the temporarily assembled pushrod

along the outside of the fuselage, lining it up with the

control horn and extending it over the servos.

21 ASSEMBLING ELEVATOR & RUDDER PUSHRODS

rudder
21 ASSEMBLING ELEVATOR & RUDDER PUSHRODS continued

6. Adjust the rods on the wooden dowel if necessary to

allow for a Z-bend to be made in the non-threaded

rod that will be attached to the servo.

7. Mark the non-threaded rod where the Z-bend will be

located. Also mark the rods where the pre-drilled

holes are located in the dowel.

8. Dissemble the pushrod and remove the clevis. Make a

90 degree bend on the non-threaded rod at the mark

where the pre-drilled hole is located on the wooden

dowel. Leave a 1/4" of rod after the 90 degree bend

and cut off any excess. Make a 90 degree bend in the

threaded rod at the mark of the pre-drilled hole of

the wooden dowel and leave a 1/4" of rod after the

bend.

9. Insert the 90 degree bend into the hole of the balsa

dowel and saturate the balsa with thick CA glue

where the rod contacts the balsa.

10. Slide a piece of heat shrink tubing over each end of

the balsa dowel and shrink it in place using a heat gun.

11. Insert the pushrod assembly, threaded rod first, into

the fuselage so the threaded rod exits the rudder

pushrod hole. Screw on a clevis 20 complete turns.

Fasten the clevis to the rudder control horn.

➤ Note: It is a good idea to place a piece of fuel tubing

over the clevis (as shown) as extra insurance to

prevent the clevis from accidentally coming open.

12. Center the rudder and elevator servo, and using a felt

tipped pen, place a mark on the end of the pushrod

where it passes the connection hole of servo horn.

13. Using Z-bend pliers, make a Z-bend at the marked

location on the rod. Cut off the excess rod past the

Z-bend.

14. Insert the Z-bend into the servo arm.

➤ Hint: It may be necessary to remove the servo arm

to insert the Z-bend.
➤ Parts Needed

1 Long threaded rod

1 Clevis

Fuselage

➤ Tools & Adhesives Needed

Z-bend pliers

Wire cutters

Felt tipped pen

22 INSTALLING THE THROTTLE LINKAGE

1. Locate one of the longer threaded rods and one

clevis.

2. Screw the clevis onto the threaded end of the rod

approximately 20 turns.

3. Insert the threaded rod, unthreaded end first, through

the 1/16” throttle linkage hole in the firewall. The

rod should exit through the radio tray compartment.

4. Attach the clevis to the throttle lever of the

carburetor, opening the carburetor half way.

5. Center the throttle servo. Using a felt tipped pen,

mark the rod where it passes the respective servo

arm.

➤ Note: It is important to be sure that the carburetor

remains half open when the throttle servo is

centered.

6. Using Z-bend pliers, make a Z-bend at the marked

spot on the rod. Cut-off the excess rod. Remove

throttle servo arm and insert Z-bend into servo arm.
➤ Parts Needed

Fuselage

Long threaded rod

Clevis

➤ Tools & Adhesives Needed

Z-bend pliers

Wire cutters

Felt tipped pen

1. Locate the remaining long threaded rod and clevis.

2. Carefully cut away the covering on the bottom of the

fuselage where the pushrod will exit, if not already

done.

3. Insert the threaded rod, threaded end first, through

the nose wheel linkage slot and into its respective

1/16" guidance holes in the fuselage.

4. Screw on a clevis 20 full turns. Fasten the clevis in the

outermost servo arm hole opposite of the rudder

servo Z-bend.

5. Be sure that the rudder servo is centered. Using a felt

tipped pen, place a mark on the unthreaded end of

the pushrod where it passes the respective servo arm.

6. Using Z-bend pliers, make a Z-bend at the marked

location on the rod. Cut off the excess rod.

7. Insert the Z-bend into the hole on the servo control

arm. It may be necessary to remove the control arm

during installation of the Z-bend.

23 INSTALLING THE NOSE WHEEL LINKAGE
24 CONTROL THROW RECOMMENDATION

25 BALANCING THE SUPER STICK

The following control throws offer the most positive

response and are a good place to begin. After you’ve

become more familiar with the flight characteristics,

adjust the control throws to meet your style of flying.

An important part of preparing the aircraft for flight is

properly balancing the model. Don’t inadvertently

neglect this step. The recommended C.G. (Center of

Gravity) location for the first flights with the Super

Stick is 1/8" behind the main spar of the wing (the

main spar spans the length of the wing underneath the

back edge of the wing sheating).

If necessary, add weight to either the tail or nose until

the correct balance is achieved. Stick-on weights are

available at your local hobby shop and work well for

this purpose.

➤ Normal Rate

Aileron: 5/16" up, 5/16" down

Elevator: 3/8" up, 3/8" down

Rudder: 7/8" right, 7/8" left

➤ High Rate

Aileron: 1/2" up, 1/2" down

Elevator: 1/2" up, 1/2" down

Rudder: 1-3/8" right, 1-3/8" left

➤ Normal Rate

Aileron: 3/8" up, 3/8" down

Elevator: 3/8" up, 3/8" down

Rudder: 1" right, 1" left

➤ High Rate

Aileron: 5/8" up, 5/8" down

Elevator: 5/8" up, 5/8" down

Rudder: 1-5/8" right, 1-5/8" left

SUPER STICK 40 SUPER STICK 60
1. Check that all control functions move in the correct

direction. If not, use the respective reversing switch

to correct the direction.

➤ Note: Mode II transmitter shown in diagrams.

2. Check that each clevis is securely snapped into

position.

3. Check that all servo horn screws are tight.

4. Charge the transmitter and receiver battery per the

instructions included with the radio system.

5. Read and follow all the instructions included with the

engine and follow the recommended break-in

procedure.

RUDDER

RUDDER

THROTTLE

1/16”

CARBURETOR

AILERON

AILERON

AILERON

ELEVATOR

ELEVATOR

PRE-FLIGHT CHECK
PRE-FLIGHT AT THE FLYING FIELD

Range Test Your Radio

1. Before each flying session be sure to range check your

radio. This is accomplished by turning on your

transmitter with the antenna collapsed. Turn on the

radio in your airplane. With your airplane on the

ground, you should be able to walk 30 paces away

from your airplane and still have complete control of

all functions. If not, don't attempt to fly! Have your

radio equipment checked out by the manufacturer.

2. Double check that all controls (aileron, elevator,

throttle, rudder) move in the correct direction.

3. Be sure that your batteries are fully charged per the

instructions included with your radio.

Adjusting the Engine

1. Completely read the instructions included with your

engine and follow the recommended break-in

procedure. At the field adjust the engine to a slightly

rich setting at full throttle and adjust the idle and low

speed needle so that a consistent idle is achieved.

Before you fly be sure that your engine reliably idles,

transitions and runs at all throttle settings . Only

when this is achieved should any plane be considered

ready for flight.
AMA SAFETY CODE

1994 Official AMA 

National Model Aircraft Safety Code

Effective January 1, 1994

Model flying must be in accordance with this Code

in order for AMA liability protection to apply

General

1. I will not fly my model aircraft in sanctioned events, air shows,

or model flying demonstrations until it has been proven to be

airworthy by having been previously, successfully flight tested.

2. I will not fly my model higher than approximately 400 feet

within 3 miles of an airport without notifying the airport

operator. I will give right-of-way and avoid flying in the

proximity of full-scale aircraft. Where necessary, an observer

shall be utilized to supervise flying to avoid having models fly in

the proximity of full-scale aircraft.

3. Where established, I will abide by the safety rules for the flying

site I use, and I will not willfully and deliberately fly my models

in a careless, reckless and/or dangerous manner.

4. At all flying sites a straight or curved line(s) must be established

in front of which all flying takes place with the other side for

spectators. Only those persons essential to the flight

operations are to be permitted on the flying side of the line; all

others must be on the spectator side. Flying over the spectator

side of the line is prohibited, unless beyond the control of the

pilot(s). In any case, the maximum permissible takeoff weight of

the model is 55 pounds unless as stated in their official rules.

5. At air shows or model flying demonstrations a single straight

line must be established, one side of which is for flying, with the

other side for spectators. Only those persons accredited by

the contest director or other appropriate official as necessary

for flight operations or as having duties or functions relating to

the conduct of the show or demonstration are to be permitted

on the flying side of the line. The only exceptions which my be

permitted to the single straight line requirements, under special

circumstances involving consideration of side conditions and

model size, weight, speed, and power, must be jointly approved

by the AMA President and the Executive Director.

6. Under all circumstances, if my model weighs over 20 pounds, I

will fly it in accordance with paragraph 5 of this section of the

AMA Safety Code.

7. I will not fly my model unless it is identified with my name and

address or AMA number, on or in the model. Note:This does

not apply to models flown indoors.

8. I will not operate models with metal-bladed propellers or with

gaseous boosts, in which gases other than air enter their

internal combustion engine(s); nor will I operate models with

extremely hazardous fuels such as those containing

tetranitromethane or hydrazine.

9. I will not operate models with pyrotechnics (any device that

explodes, burns, or propels a projectile of any kind) including,

but not limited to, rockets, explosive bombs dropped from

models, smoke bombs, all explosive gases (such as hydrogenfilled balloons), ground mounted devices launching a projectile.

The only exceptions permitted are rockets flown in accordance

with the National Model Rocketry Safety Code or those

permanently attached (as per JATO use); also those items

authorized for Air Show Team use as defined by AST Advisory

Committee (document available from AMA HQ). In any case,

models using rocket motors as primary means of propulsion

are limited to a maximum weight of 3.3 pounds and a G series

motor. Note:A model aircraft is defined as an aircraft with or

without engine, not able to carry a human being.

10. I will not operate any turbo jet engine (axial or centrifugal flow)

unless I have obtained a special waiver for such specific

operations from the AMA President and Executive Director and

I will abide by any restriction(s) imposed for such operation by

them. (Note:This does not apply to ducted fan models using

piston engines or electric motors.)

11. I will not consume alcoholic beverages prior to, nor during,

participation in any model operations.

Radio Control

1. I will have completed a successful radio equipment ground

range check before the first flight of a new or repaired model.

2. I will not fly my model aircraft in the presence of spectators

until I become a qualified flier, unless assisted by an experienced

helper.

3. I will perform my initial turn after takeoff away from the pit or

spectator areas, and I will not thereafter fly over pit or

spectator areas, unless beyond my control.

4. I will operate my model using only radio control frequencies

currently allowed by the Federal Communications Commission.

(Only properly licensed Amateurs are authorized to operate

equipment on Amateur Band frequencies.) Further, any

transmitters that I use at a sanctioned event must have a

certified R/CMA-AMA gold sticker affixed indicating that it was

manufactured or modified for operation at 20 kHz frequency

separation (except 27 MHz and 53 MHz).

5. I will not knowingly operate an R/C system within 3 miles of a

pre-existing model club flying site without a frequency sharing

agreement with that club.