# WARNING!

The radio controlled model helicopter built from this kit is not a toy and is not meant for children. It is a flying machine capable of causing property damage and serious bodily harm to both the operator/assembler and/or sp ectator if not built and operated correctly and responsibly. Rotating components, espe cially the main rotor blades, are an everpresent danger.

Model helicopters operate differently than mode l cars and airplanes. Helicopters by their nature are not positively stable, meaning that even if properly assembled and adjusted, helicopters will not recover from an unwante d flight attitude, nor will they hold any particular orientation without constant control inputs from the pilot.



### IT IS YOUR EXCLUSIVE RESPONSIBILI TY TO PROPERLY BUILD, MAINTAIN

AND OPERATE THIS HELICOPTER. Be rgen R/C Helicopters has spent considerable time making this product reliable and easy to build, but only the operator can insure that it is safe. Because th e safe operation of this helicopter is beyond the control of the Manufacturer and distributor, the owner/operator assume s all risk of use.

### Construction Manual Acknowledgments

Bergen R/C Helicopters wi shes to thank our friends and customers for their continuing support during the develo pment of the Intrepid Helicopter.

The Instruction Manual and illustration s were completed with the input of

numerous customers and staff. We wi sh to recognize Gary Wright, who had been the test pilot and helicopter guru in its early years. We would also like to recognize Mike DeMetz for his co ntinuous support and knowledge in

electronics and maintenance.

Staff

Chris Bergen; Chief Executive Officer Larry Bergen; Chief Design En gineer and General Manager Maryann Pratt; Office Management Mike Bergen; Programmer, Engineer Larry Mihills; Machinist Malorie Zastrow; Test Pilot/Engineer

Bergen R/C Helicopters LLC

1101 Follett Drive Cassopolis, MI 49031 Voice: (269) 445-2060

Fax: (269) 445-2250 Web: www.bergenrc.com Email: bergenrc@verizon.net

### Introduction

The first of its kind, interchangeable modular engineered helicopter to accommodate the beginner to a FAI expert...

An idea in 1994 to manufacture an intercha ngeable, modular helicopter, led to the research and development in 1995. Focusing on quality, engineering details, and price, a prototype was produced. After extensive test flights and fine-tuning, the INTREPID HELICOPTER is now what you see to day. The first of its kind, strength combined with simplicity for easy maintenance and flying.

Although beginners can successfully build and fly their INTREPID, the process can be made significantly easier with the help of an experienced modeler and instructor pilot. We recommend that all beginners join the Ac ademy of Model Aeronautics (AMA). The AMA is a non-profit organization that provides services for modelers. The AMA can help you locate a model aircraft club in your area with an instructor pilot (you can also check with your local hobby shop). Membership benefits include a monthly magazine and liability insurance. Many flying clubs require an AMA modeler’s license to operate a model on their flying field. For more information on the AMA contact:

Academy of Model Aeronautics

5151 East Memorial Drive

Muncie, IN 47302 Phone: (317) 287-1256Consumer Warranty

IMPORTANT! Before building the Observer EB Helicopter kit, read an d fully understand the following warranty, and review the entire Construction Manual. By building and/or flying this helicopter you indicate your acceptance of the fo llowing warranty terms and conditions, and further agree to build and operate this helic opter in safe and responsible manner.

If you find any term or co ndition unacceptable, or if you feel that this helicopter is just not suited to you, you may return it to your pla ce of purchase in NEW and UNUSED condition within thirty (30) days of the date of purchase for a refund of the purchase price less shipping and handling. Partially assembled kits, and kits with open ed parts packs or missing parts ca n not be returned for a refund.

Warranty:

1. Bergen warrants to the first consumer Pu rchaser that the Observer EB helicopter substantially conforms to its published de scription when used as intended as a hobby product, and will be free from def ects in materials and workmanship for a period of 90 days after the date of purcha se. Bergen R/C will repair or replace (at his option) any defective part, and supply any missing part at no charge to the Purchaser within this period. We make no warranty, express or implied. This warranty does not apply to parts damaged by improper assembly, modification, abnormal service or handling, or crashes.

2. To take advantage of this warranty, the Purchaser must provide proof of purchase, and ship any defective part (at Purchase r’s cost) to Bergen R/C for repair or replacement.

3. It is the responsibility of the Purchaser to properly assemble, maintain and operate this helicopter in accordance with manufa cture’s instructions, AMA safety codes,

local laws and ordinances, and COMMON SENSE. It is also the re sponsibility of the Purchaser, when operating this helicopter, never to operate it in any way, which might endanger persons or property includ ing the Purchaser. Purchaser is advised to carry appropriate liability insurance such as that commonly pr ovided to modelers by the AMA.

4. THIS WARRANTY SPECIFICALLY EXCLUDES THE IMPLIED WARRANTIES

OF MERCHANTABILITY AND FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE. The selection of this helicopter for a pa rticular application or use (beyond hobby/entertainment) is the sole responsibility of the Purchaser. Any advice supplied by any representative of Bergen R/C pertaini ng to any particular application is given freely as an opinion and is not meant to bi nd Bergen R/C or in any other way modify this warranty.1. Not withstanding the paragraph above, this warranty is in addition to whatever implied warranties may be granted to th e Purchaser by law. To the extent permitted by law, all implied warranties, including the warranties of merchantability and fitness for a particular pu rpose are limited to a period of (1) year from the date of purchase. Some states do not allow lim itations on how long an implied warranty

last, so the above limi tation may not apply.

2. This warranty shall be the sole and exclusiv e remedy available to the Purchaser.

Correction of defects, in the manner and for the period of time specified above, shall constitute complete fulfillmen t of all liabilities and respon sibilities of Bergen R/C to

the Purchaser, and shall constitute full sa tisfaction of all claims, whether based on contract, negligence, strict liability or othe rwise. Bergen R/C shall not be liable for any cost or expenses incurred in; the replacement of any effective or nonconforming parts, and IN NO EVENT SHALL BERGEN R/C BE LIABLE FOR

INCIDENTAL OR CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES, OR ANY DAMAGES DUE TO

THE USE OR INABILITY TO USE THIS PRODUCT . Bergen R/C shall not be liable, or in any way responsible, for any damages related to modifications, repairs, attempted repairs, or crashes. IN NO EVENT SHALL BERGEN R/C’s

OBLIGATIONS TO THE PURCHASER EXCEED THE ORIGINAL PURCHASE

PRICE PAID BY THE PURCHASER.

3. Some states do not allow exclusion of incidental or consequential damages, so the above exclusion may not apply. This wa rranty gives the Purchaser specific legal rights. The Purchaser may al so have other rights, which vary, from state to state.

4. No modification or amendment to this wa rranty will be effective unless reduced to writing and signed by an authorized re presentative of Berg en R/C Management.

If you do not understand any aspect of this warranty, you may contact Bergen R/C Helicopters for clarification. IF YOU DO NOT AGREE WITH ANY ASPECT OF THIS

WARRANTY, RETURN THE UNASSEMBLED HELICOPTER TO YOUR MANUFACTURER FOR A

REFUND.

Bergen R/C Helicopters believes that information cont ained within its publishe d materials is accurate as of the date of publication, an d is not responsible for inadvertent errors or om issions. Bergen R/C reserves the right to make changes and im provements in its prod ucts without notice.

Chris and Larry Bergen Bergen R/C HelicoptersCongratulations on your purchase of a Bergen R/C Helicopters Observer EB. The EB stands for Extended Boom, allowing the use of 810 mm rotor blades.

There are a few things we recommend in the assembly an d use of your Observer EB, and we’ll spell those

out as we go, but for now, our first recommendation is a good quality set of hardened allen drivers. We have found that standard allen wrenches are too soft, and you run the risk of rounding off the inside hex of the SHCS that we use in the assembly of the helicopter.

You will also need Blue Loctite throughout the assemb ly, and some good quality grease that is compatible with rubber, which will be used to lube the O’rings in the rotor head.

Oil and fuel mix is a hot topic on the internet, and you will use what you want, but here, at least, is our recommendation based on our experience of many ye ars of using gas engines in helicopters. We recommend using 100% synthetic oil such as Blue Ma rble, available from B.H. Hanson, Yamalube, or even Pennzoil outboard marine engine oil. The clue here is 100% synthetic, not a blend, not ashless, and certainly not a concentrated oil such as Amsoil, that requires using less oil.

Mix your oil, 6 oz to a gallon, of 87 octane gasoline, not camper fuel or some other substitute. Higher Octane fuel will NOT add performance, just cost, and may cause predetonation. This mix to be used for the first 2 gallons of use, then reduce the oil to 5 oz per gallon.

Our reasoning for this mix is simple. We feel that more oil is a safety measu re for your engine. It’s protection against a lean run that may be accidental due to an air leak or by not being used to tuning a gas engine. Many engines have had to be replaced due to the fact of burning them up because of a lean run, using less than the recommended amount of oil. As I said earlier, you will run what you want, but if you want the performance out of your helicopter th at you purchased it for, use our recommendations and it will work just fine.Start with the landing gear. Assemble the skids and cross bars as shown, leaving them loose for now. Locate the landing gear skid bars in bag #1, use them to locate and drill 2 holes in each cross bar. Center

the skid bar fore and aft, as well as side to side, and use a #30 or 1/8 th drill bit to drill through the cross bar. Set the landing gear aside for now.

Gather all of the engine components. Note the tapered end of the crankshaft. Also notice the sharp edge at the end of the taper.

You’ll want to remove that sharp edge, either by buffing or carefully grinding the edge. Install the pull start adapter using 3 ea 5X12 FHCS. Loctite is NO T necessary here, as the countersunk G10 will hold them quite nicely.Install the pull start using 4 ea 4X12 SHCS. Again, loct ite isn’t needed, however if you feel the need, you can use a drop of CA glue in place of loctite. Note the orientation of the pull start handle, on the same side as the carburetor insulator block. On the oppo site end of the engine, install the fan shroud mount

plate, using 4 ea 5X12 SHCS and loctite this time. Al so note the orientation of the plate; this will be important when you mount the fan shroud.

Installing and dial indicating the fan will be more accurate with the sp ark plug removed. Seat the fan on the tapered end of the crank, and install the 6X25 SHCS and 1⁄4” split washer, using loctite. Do not torque the bolt down yet, just snug it.

Dial indicate the fan, looking fo r runout indication as shown.Tap the high side down carefully, using a small hammer, hitting flat on the tops of the fan blades, then checking the runout. It usually takes only a sharp ta p to bring it in. Now torque down on the bolt holding the fan to the engine. Check the runout again. If it has runout, give it another tap on the high side and recheck. You should be able to get the runout to less than .002 without a lot of difficulty. If you

are having difficulty, remove the fan. Check the runout of the cranksha ft itself. It should also be less

than .002. Look into the fan hub to ensure there is no bu rr in the tapered end, prev enting it from seating properly.

This is what it should look like when you’re done. One side reads 0.00, as does the opposite side. This took all of 10 minutes, in cluding taking the pics!!

Set the fan shroud over the fan and head of the engine. Carefully, using a hair dryer, warm the shroud to fit it to the mount, insta lling the 3X16 SHCS as you go.When you get all 4 SHCS installed, warm the entire shroud to relieve any stress that could cause cracks

in the future. Install 4 ea 3M lo cknuts on the SHCS. DO NOT over torque these nuts; you will crack the

ears on the first run of th e engine. Snug is good enough.

Gather the lower frame components from bag #1. St art with the “butterfly” and the 2 “Front Frame Plate Bars”, noting the orientation.

Using 6 ea 3X16 SHCS and 3M locknuts, mount the bars on the butterfly, then sl ide the one leg into the lower frame, again using 3X16 SHCS and 3M locknuts th rough the “front frame pl ate bar” to secure in place. Repeat for other lower frame half. Note that the lower frames are “han ded”, left and right. You

can tell the difference by the countersunk holes on th e lower edge of the frame. The countersink faces

“out”.Install the rear bulkhead using 4 ea 3X16 SHCS and 3M locknuts, then install the landing gear skid bars, front and rear, using 4 ea 3X8 FHCS.

Assemble the rear battery tray with battery tr ay spacers, using 6 ea 3X8 FHCS and loctite.

Install the battery tray into the frames using 4 ea 3X 8 SHCS and loctite. Note the tray spacers are on top. Install the “Front Frame Bl ock and Arm Mount” on the rear of th e butterfly, using 4 ea 3X16 SHCS

and 3M locknuts.Install the lower frame assembly on to the landing gear, using 4 ea 3X16 SHCS and 3M locknuts. Center and rotate the skid tubes to your liking, then drill a #50 pilot hole in the boss, into the aluminum skid tube, on the underside of the gear a nd install the 2 ea 3X8 self tapping screws. I typically install these into the rear cross bar, leaving th e front crossbar able to flex.

Install the engine into the lower frames, spark plug facing to the rear (remove the plug for ease of installation). Note the vertical slot s in the lower frames and the horizont al slots in the pull start adapter. In these slots, install 4 ea 3X18 SH CS with the thick special washers provided, one washer on the outside,

one on the inside.

Turn the framework over to access the underside, a nd install the washers and 3M locknuts. Do not tighten at this time, as you will need to set the gear mesh later on. No te that you can move the engine up and down, as well as forward and aft.Locate the delrin bushings, steel inserts and 4X16 SH CS. Note the chamfer on the steel insert. Install

with the chamfer toward the head of the bolt. Install the delrin bushi ngs onto the fan hub using loctite, and tighten securely.

Assemble the clutch components, clutch, clutch bell, triple bearing block, and retaining collar w/3X3

setscrews. Use loctite on the se tscrews in the retaining collar.

Install the clutch system onto the delrin bushings on the fan hub. Gather up the upper frames, 4 ea flanged bearings, and collective axles.Press the flanged bearings into the upper frames, maki ng certain to seat the flange down. Be sure to make a right and a left, with the fl ange on the inside of the frames. Put a drop of CA glue around the outer edge of the bearings to secure them in place, be ing careful not to get any gl ue in the bearing itself.

Insert the axles into one side frame and s lide the opposite side frame onto the axles.

Slide the upper framework onto th e bulkheads, and install 4 ea 3X35 SHCS through the holes in the

frames and bulkheads. Secure with 4 ea 3M locknuts. Install 4 ea 3X8 SHCS and 3M washers into the triple bearing block above the clutch, loosely for now. Find the Elevator Yoke assembly and the 2 shafts

with flats on them. You’ll need 2 ea 3X4 SHCS and 3M washers as well.

Note the two shafts are different; one has flats on only one side. Install both shaf ts into the elevator yoke with the flats fitting into the broached holes. Us e loctite on the 2 ea 3X4 SHCS and 3M washers.Insert the elevator yoke in to the upper frames, with the longer of shaf t on the right side of the helicopter. Find the 2 main shaft bearing blocks. Note th e cutout portion on the lower bearing block.

Install the lower main shaft bearin g block, using 2 ea 3X35 SHCS, note the orientation of the bearing, facing up. The elevator yoke is re moved for clarity. Install the upper main shaft bearing block, using 4

ea 3X8 SHCS also note the orientation of the bearin g, facing down this time, hump side up. Loosely

install 2 ea 3M locknuts on the lower bolts.

Assemble the tail drive transmission next. Insert the shaft into the de lrin coupler until the holes line up and install the cross pin securing the two pieces together.Secure the cross pin with a 3X4 setscrew threaded into th e rear of the shaft, using loctite. Make doubly sure the setscrew secures the crosspin. Insert the shaft into the rear of the transmission cradle through the bearing, and slide the br ass tube onto the shaft.

Install the tail pinion onto the shaft and slide the shaft all the way in, through the forward bearing. Looking through the setscrew hole, locate the divot in the shaft. If it doesn’t line up, look through the

second hole in the pinion. Install a 3X4 setscrew in this hole, using loctite. A second setscrew is not necessary and may interfere with the bolts in the main gear.

Install the tail transmission into the upper frames, engaging the ears in to the lower bearing block. In these “ears”, note the slotted hole for adjustment up a nd down to set the mesh. You’ll need to remove the

3X35 SHCS previously installed, the reinstall it after getting the transmis sion in place. Don’t tighten it just yet. Loosely install 4 ea 3X8 SHCS into the rea r 4 holes of the cradle through the frames. Locate the main gear components next.Install the autorotation hub into th e main gear with the longer portion of the hub facing up. Use 4 ea 3X8 Low Head Cap Screws and loctite to secure. In sert the main shaft down through the upper bearing

block, install the 3 pieces of the thrust bearing and 1 split collar on the shaft with th e “ring” facing up

toward the bearing, slide the shaft down a little fa rther and install the second split collar, below the elevator yoke, with the “ring” faci ng down toward the bottom bearing.

Continue pushing the main shaft down, through th e bottom bearing, insert the main gear below the bottom bearing block and slide the ma in shaft through the auto hub. Pl ace the bottom colla r on the main shaft and install the 4-40 bolt through the collar and mainshaft, with loctite. This is one of the 2 standard, not metric, bolts on this helicopter.

Pull up on the mainshaft, push down and tighten the lo wer split collar. This is where the hardened allen

drivers are a must. You’ll notice the heads of the bolt are turned down to fit the collar, making them very easy to strip the heads. Slide the upper collar and thrust bearing up to the upper bearing and secure

the bolt. DO NOT use loctite on these bolts.Gather the 26 mm threaded frame spacers and 29 mm non-threaded frames spacers with 4 ea 3X40 SHCS. Secure the rear of the frame sets together by inserting the bolt through the frames and spacer, into the threaded spacer in the middle.

Install remaining bolts and frame spacers. Now go ba ck, and one at a time, remove a bolt, loctite and reinstall. Loosely install 4 ea 3X8 SHCS and 3M washers into the tr iple bearing block.

Now set the gear mesh between the drive pinion and ma in gear by moving the engine fore and aft, moving

the triple bearing block fore and aft as well, maintain ing vertical alignment through the start shaft. In other words, you DO NOT want the drive train cock ed to get proper engagement of the gears. Proper engagement means the gears spin freely with minimal or no backlash. The main gear is machined, and as

such, has no high spot. Carefully tighten the bolts in the triple bearing block, and carefully tighten the bolts and nuts in the pull start adapter plate. Check the mesh, if it moved, tr y again. Remember the fore and aft adjustment in the plate and the vertical adjustment in the frames. The fan hub should be pushed

right up against the clutch when adjustment is complete . Loctite the bolts in the triple bearing block. Parallel to

each otherSet the tail gear pinion mesh by lo osening the thru bolt holding the lower main shaft bearing block and transmission cage in place, and loosening the 4 bolts at the rear of the transmi ssion cage. Tap down on the front of the cage at the point shown until you get a smooth running me sh with little or no backlash. The “step” of the ears on the transmission will sit fl ush with the top of the bearing block. Now tighten the thru bolt, loctite and tighten the 4 bo lts in the rear of the transmission cage.

Install 3 sets of the boom clamps into the rear of the upper frames, using 6 ea 3X35 SHCS and 6 ea 3M locknuts, but do not tighten them yet. Loca te the gyro mount plate and three hole block.

Assemble the plate using 2 ea 3X8 FHCS in the c-sunk holes, then install into the frames above the boom clamps using 2 ea 3X8 SHCS.The swashplate is next; install 4 ea medium balls on the inner ring, us ing loctite. After installing these balls, make sure the eyeball in the ce nter of the swashplate moves freely. If not, check that the threads of the balls haven’t gone in too deep, pushing on the eyeball. Remove some of the threaded end, if necessary. 4 ea short balls go in the outer ring, with loctite.

Slide the swashplate onto the main sh aft and snap the links from the el evator yoke onto 2 of the outer balls. Gather the components of the washout unit next.

Assemble 2 ea washout arms by installing a “porkcho p” radius link onto the arm, and installing a 10m

crosspin, securing the crosspin with a 3X4 setscrew and loctite. Note the orientation of the arm and “porkchop”. You’ll also note there are 2 packages of “porkchops”, marked left and right. The difference is the direction that they snap onto a ball. We su ggest for now that you use th e “left” handed porkchops.Insert the 3X7X3 flanged bearings in to the arms, 2 ea into each arm. Insert the 3X16 SHCS with 6M shoulder through the bearings and put 1 ea 3M br ass washer on the bolt. Note the orientation.

Thread the bolt into the washout hub, then install a 3X4 setscrew in the same hole from the opposite side.

Set the tension on the bearings by tightening the bolt carefully until the arm spins freely, but there is no side to side slop. Tighten the setsc rew, using it as a jamnut to secure the bolt. Check the play on the arm. If it changed, loosen the setscrew, and readjust, ti ghtening the setscrew when done. Repeat for the opposite arm. Install a short ball onto the inside of each arm.

Slide the completed assembly onto th e mainshaft, and snap the porkchops onto two of the inner balls of the swashplate.Assemble the control system; starting with the collective arms (popsickle sticks), aileron bellcranks, and

“X” arm. Install the short balls in all of the pieces, using loctite, maki ng a right and left aileron bellcrank as shown. Install the 5X8X2.5 flanged bearings into the pieces, putting 1 ea into the popsickle sticks, and

2 ea into each bellcrank.

Install a jamnut into each bellcra nk, from the side with the boss, and thread a 3X16 SHCS into each aileron bellcrank, a 3X20 SHCS threads into the “X” arm jamnut. Use a washer under the head of the

bolt. The aileron bellcranks are installed onto the popsickle sticks, threading the bolt in, setting the tension while holding the jamnut, then tightening to th e popsickle stick. The bellcrank should spin freely without slop.

Note the orientation of the balls on the “X” arm. Install 2 short balls on the elevator bellcrank, with

loctite.Install the left side popsickle stick, matching the broac h in the popsickle stick to the flats on the collective axle, using a 3X4 SHCS and 3M washer at the front in to the shaft for the elevator yoke, and a 3X8 SHCS

and 3M washer into the collective axle. The right side popsickle stick is installed the same way, except,

The “X” arm bolt threads into the collective axle, se tting the tension on the bearings by holding the jamnut, then tightening to the popsickle stick. Inst all the elevator bellcrank on to the long shaft of the

elevator yoke, matching the broach to the flats on the shaft. Use a 3X4 SHCS and 3M washer with loctite. The long leg of the bellcrank points up.

Install the aileron servo mount in between the pops ickle sticks using 4 ea 3X8 SHCS and 2 ea 3M

washers. The washers are used on th e bolts going through the slots on the popsickle sticks. Do not use loctite here; it doesn’t stick very we ll to the G10. Use a drop of CA glue instead. Install the 2 long balls and 2 short balls on the triple and sing le bellcrank as shown, with loctite.Install the triple bellcrank on the le ft side, on the collective axle, matchi ng the broach with the flats on the axle. The single bellcrank is insta lled on the right side, on the collect ive axle. Use 2 ea 3X8 SHCS with

3M washers and loctite. Note that the legs with th e short balls on both bellc ranks should point in the same direction, as shown, both are pointing down.

Assemble the rotor head next, starting with the sees aw. Press 2 ea 4X10X4 bearings into the end of the

seesaw tube until flush. Be careful not to confuse these bearings with the 3X 10X4 bearings used later. The bearings you want have the larger inner diameter.

Now use the 3X10X4 bearings, a 3X8 SHCS and 3M bra ss washer, Insert the seesaw tube into the oval hole in the head, and thread the bolt in to the seesaw tube. Use the bolt to draw the bearing into the head.

Note the orientation of the slots on the s eesaw tube, and use loctite on these bolts.When both bearings are installed, cen ter the seesaw tube by tapping on the head of the bolts. The seesaw tube should pivot freely. Install the seesaw tube e ndcaps, pushing them on until flush with the end, and

securing with a 3X4 setscrew and loctite, in the inn er hole. The setscrew should engage the slot on the

tube. Also install the short balls in the outermost hole at this time.

Install 2 ea 3X5 panhead screws to secure the bearings in the headblock, being careful not to get any loctite in the bearings. Insert the head axle into the head, and push some grease into the gap around the

head axle, on both sides of the head. This acts as a reservoir of lubrication for the dampening o’rings.

Install 2 ea o’rings on both sides of the head on the axle, and push th em into the head. Now you install the dampening shims. Here you have a choice. You must install the th ickest of the three shims (.040), but can install one or both of the other shims (.008, .015) to suit your flying. Then push on the circlip until it pops into the groove in the shaft. Make sure it’s seated all the way around.You may need to use the blade grips to push the circlips into place, just make sure they are seated all the way around. Now slide the blade grips onto the head axle, all the way to the circlip.

Locate your thrust bearings for the blade grips. Noti ce that one of the races has a larger inner diameter

than the other. Grease the ball ca ge, then install the larger ID race in side the blade grip, on the head axle, with the groove facing out.

Now install the ball cage with the open side of the cage facing in. Th e smaller ID race goes in next, with the groove facing in. Install the 5X16 SHCS bolt wi th special washer and loctite. Repeat for other bladegrip.With both blade grips installed, us e 2 allen wrenches to tighten the bl ade grip bolts. Tighten securely, but there is no need to overtorque them. Loosely install 2 ea 3X25 SHCS in to lower boss of the head. These are the “pinch” bolts.

Install the Head Button, if optioned, using 2 ea 3X12 SHCS a nd loctite. Assemble the pitch arm

components next.

Insert 2 ea 3X7X3 flanged bearings into each be ll hiller mixer, then ins ert a 3X12 SHCS with 6M shoulder and place a 3M brass washer on the threads. Thread this assembly on to the pitch arm in the center hole, noting the orientation of the flat milled on the pitch arm. Set the tension on the bearing by

tightening the bolt carefully, then installing a 3M nut with loctite as a jamnut. The arm should spin freely with no slop.Install 2 ea short balls on the mi xers. Note that one end of the arm is longer than the other, and

orientation of the balls. In this instance the longer end is to the right. Install the assembly onto each blade grip using 2 ea 3X6 SHCS and loctite. The milled flat on the pitch arm should square up the pitch arm to the blade grip.

Slide the head assembly onto the main shaft, lining up the “jesus” bolt hole with the hole in the mainshaft. Slide the pins from the wash out unit up into the slots in the head.

Insert a 3X20 SHCS “jesus” bolt, but do not tighten yet. Tighten the pinch bolts, alternating from side to side, after adding loctite, then remove, loct ite, reinstall, and tighten the “jesus” bolt.Flybar installation is next. Inse rt the flybar through the seesaw tu be bearings; install a 4mm special washer on each side, then the flybar arms.

Center the flybar, measuring both sides from the flybar arm to the end, with th e flybar arm pushed all

the way to the seesaw tube. Secure the flybar arms with a 3X4 setscrew and loctite, making sure the flybar arms are parallel with each other.

Install the flybar paddles onto the flybar, counting at least 20 turns on, measuring both sides from the flybar arm to the paddle, to ensure they are the same dimension. Use the front hole in the paddle. Also level the paddles with each other, as viewed from the end.Install the fuel tank, starting with locating where the fuel fittings will be installed in the tank. Slide the tank under the battery tray and ma rk where you want the fittings.

Drill a #16 hole in the tank at the spot s marked. Install a single end fitti ng on the top of the tank for the vent line, and one on the side for the return line. Make a clunk line using the double end fitting and clunk securing the ends with a tye-wrap, making sure the line is long enough to reach the bottom of the tank, but not too long to get stuck in the corner.

Secure all fittings with a nut on the outside. If necessary, you can seal the holes under the fittings with Zap-a-dap-a-goo or similar glue. Inst all the lid tightly. Install some so rt of padding on top of the tank; we use Zeal anti vibration gel, which is a double sided adhesive.Install the tank under the rear tray and secure with the 2 long tye-wraps provided, running the tye-wraps through slots in the tray.

On the carburetor you will find an idle adjustment screw, remove it and throw it away. Install the throttle arm on the carb, in the di rection shown. With the carburetor butterfly halfway open, you want the throttle arm pointing straight away from the carb. The idea here is to center the throw of the arm for

setup purposes.

Fit the air filter base to the carb, with a gasket betw een them, inserting the attach bolts through the base and carb. Install a gasket on the open face of the carb also. Bolt this assembly to the insulator block on the engine, being careful not to overtighten, as this will distort the insulator block causing air leaks and lean runs on the engine. The choke le ver should move with some resistance.Snap the air filter cover in place and secure with the slide on the bottom. Now install the fuel lines from

the tank to the carb. The fi tting at the front of the carb is the fuel in fitting; th e rear fitting is the return line to the tank. Don’t forget the vent line hanging straight down past the landing gear cross bar. You may want to secure these lines with tye wraps around th e fittings, as you did with the clunk line inside the

tank.

Install the muffler next. No te that there are 2 spacers and 2 sets of bolts. Use the thicker spacer and the longer 5X65 MM set of bolts. Install a gasket on ei ther side of the spacer, put the bolts through the muffler and spacer assembly,

And bolt to the engine. Point the exhaust tube do wn. After the first run of the engine, go back and tighten these bolts while the muffler is still hot.Begin assembling the camera mount by installing th e Front Frame Block and Arm Mounts to the “flying squirrel”, noting the orientation, with 8 ea 3X16 SHCS and 3M locknuts. Don’t tighten these just yet.

Place an extension arm on one side, and install 4 ea 3X35 SHCS through the Front Frame Blocks, then place the opposite extension arm on the bolts and thread 4 ea 3M locknut s on the bolts. Now tighten all the bolts, pulling the extension arms up to the “flying squirrel” tightly.

Install an “Extension Arm and Turret Brace” between the extension arms and install 3 ea 3X35 SHCS and 3ea 3M locknuts to secure in place.Install 1 ea thrust bearing block w/4 ea 3X8 SHCS and 1 ea standard bearing block w/2ea 3X35 SHCS

and 2 ea 3M locknuts onto the front end of the extens ion arms. Note the orientation of the blocks and bearings. The thrust bearing block is installed on the bottom, with th e hump down. Leave the bolts loose

for now.

Through one turret arm, install 12 ea 3X35 SHCS and place flat on the table. Install 1 ea “G10 block with 10m hole”, one ea “Extension Arm and Turret Br ace”, and 4 ea standard bearing blocks onto the 3X35 SHCS. Note the orientation of the bearing blocks.

Install the three shafts, longest one at the top, with a 3X35 SHCS through “Extension Arm and Turret Brace” and hole in the shaft, shorter ones at the si des with a split collar in be tween the bearing blocks.

Note the orientation of the collars. Don’t tighten the collars yet. Place the opposite turret arm onto the

bolts and install 13 ea 3M lock nuts, tightening them evenly.Locate the three round spacers and place on the three shafts; the lower ones go on the inside of the blocks, the upper one sits on top of the upper G10 block.

Install the height adjustment arms onto the shafts, putting a 3X30 SHCS through the arm and the hole in the shaft, securing with a 3M locknut. The three di fferent holes allow for height adjustment when using

different sized cameras. Install th e base plate in between the arms securing with 4 ea 3X20 FHCS and 3M locknuts. Slide the split collars toward their respective bearings a nd tighten. DO NOT use loctite on these split collar bolts.

With the spacer installed, slide the long upper shaft in to the thrust bearing bloc k and install the thrust bearing that consist of 2 races with a ball cage in be tween. Install the third sp lit collar onto the shaft, noting the orientation, ring down.Push the assembly all the way up, pus h the split collar down on top of the thrust bearing and tighten the split collar bolt, NO loctite. The camera mount should spin freely. Install a la rge pulley onto the shaft, installing a 3X20 thru bolt and 3M locknut. You m ay need to tap up on the whole assembly to get the holes to line up, then carefully tap it back down. No w tighten the bolts securing the bearing blocks to the

extension arms.

Install the second large pulley onto the medium shaft, also with a 3X20 SHCS and 3M locknut. Ensure

all bolts and nuts are now tight on the turret arms. Install the rubber grommets onto the 2 modified servos provided.

Snap the plastic servo mount tabs into the slots in th e servo mounts, noting the orientation. Install the servos into the mounts using 2.5X10 SHCS and 2.5m wa shers, which thread into the plastic servo mount

tabs.Install the small pulley/servo wheel on to the servo, then place one of th e servo assemblies in between the extension arms, angling it in while installing the pulley belt.

Push the servo mount in until the thru holes line up and install 2 ea 3x35 SHCS, 4 ea 3M washers, and 2 ea 3m locknuts. Set the tension on the belt fairly ti ght and tighten the nuts. Re peat for the tilt servo on

the side of the turret arm.

Install the Vibration Isolators onto the “Flying Squirrel” using 8 ea 4X12 SHCS threaded into the G10,

then install the completed camera mount assembly onto the vibratio n isolators using 4 ea 8-32 SHCS.

These are the second bolts in the kit that are standard , not metric. Use loctite on these bolts, and if necessary hold onto the post with a pair of pliers to prevent it from turning wh ile tightening the bolts.To get the full 360 degree rotation with out winding up the servo wires, try this little tip. With a 12” long servo extension wire, remove the male plug by lifting the tabs and pulling the connectors out.

Remove the 2 thru bolts in the long vertical shaft, on e in the pulley and one in th e turret arm. Feed the wire without the plug up through the shaft.

Reinstall the plug on the wires and carefully reinstall the bolts through the shaft without cutting the wire. Connect the tilt servo to the extension and plug the extension into your camera mount receiver. The wire will still wind up, but it will take a lot more turns before it causes any problems.Begin assembly of the tail system wi th the “dogbone”. Insert the crosspin and secure with a 3X4 setscrew from inside the dogbone with loctite.

Locate 2 ea arrow shafts, they are aluminum, and you w ill see a silver dot on each end. Cut 1” off of each end of both arrow shafts. This is to remove the part of the arrow shaft that is not machined to the proper size. Now cut 1 arrow shaft 16 1⁄4 “ long, the other 17” long.

Install the long arrow shaft onto the input shaft of th e gearbox, using a collar with only 1 ea 3X3 setscrew

to secure. Install the bearing carr ier and coupler onto the long shaft a nd install the shorter shaft on the opposite end, again securing with a collar an d only 1 ea 3X3 setscrew on each shaft.Install the “dogbone” assembly in th e front end of the short arrow shaft, again with a collar and only 1 ea 3X3 setscrew to secure. Using a #50 drill bit, pick one hole in each collar and carefully drill through the arrow shaft into the underlying shaft or dogbone, creating a divot in the shaft. With loctite, install a 3X3

setscrew in each drilled location. Remove, loctite, and reinstall the rest of the setscrews in each collar.

The completed assembly is quite long and fragile at this point, be careful. Install the horizontal fin clamp on to the tail boom, noting the drilled holes in the rear end of the boom.

Lubricate the O’rings on the bearing carrier, and slide the complete assembly into the tail boom. Secure the gearbox into the boom with 2 ea 3X4 SHCS and loct ite. Be careful not to overtighten these screws as you can pull the threads out of the gearbox, use the loctite and they will stay secure.Assemble the tail pitch bellcrank by installing a 3X7X3 flanged bearing in one side, the aluminum spacer,

Then the opposite bearing. Insert the 3X16 with 6M shoulder SHCS through the bearings and spacer, with the delrin cup on top, and add a 3M brass washer on to the bolt as a spacer. Thread this into the pitch arm on the gearbox, but do not tighten yet.

Thread a 3M locknut onto the bolt and set the tensio n on the bearings by tightening the bolt, then tightening the nut to secure. Ch eck that the bellcrank spins freely with minimal slop. If further adjustment is needed, loosen the nut, ad just the bolt, then retighten the nut.Slide the pitch slider onto the shaft engaging the ball into the delrin cu p at the same time. Locate the Heavy Duty tail hub and 1 ea 3X4 setscrew. Note the divot on the output shaft.

Install the hub onto the shaft lining up the hole in the hub with the divot in the shaft, secure with the 3X4 setscrew and loctite. Only 1 setscrew is required and suggested. Tail blade grips are next, note the radial bearings are preinstalled, and order of installation of the thrust bearings.

Install 1 blade grip, then the 10m spacer. The thrust bearings include 2 races and 1 ballcage. One of the races has a larger inner diameter than the other. Install this race next, then the ballcage after greasing. The race with the smaller ID is next, then is secured with a 3X6 SHCS and 3M washer with loctite. There

will be a small amount of in and out play, this is norm al and designed in to the system. Repeat for other blade grip.Locate the 4M shoulder bolts and eyel ets. Slip the eyelet onto the shou lder bolt and install on the blade grip with loctite, being careful not to get loctite into the eyelet. It ha s to rotate on the shoulder bolt to operate properly. If you run into tail problems, drift, hot servo, tail wont hold , look here as a possible culprit. You should also lubric ate this joint daily with a light lubricant such as 3 in 1 oil.

On the 2 “Special Ball Links” you w ill note a rib down the side. Remove it with a sharp X-acto knife. Also, trim the ball links by cutting 1/8 th ” off of the end.

Thread the Special Ball Links onto th e eyelets and snap onto the balls on the pitch slider. Note direction

of rotation as shown.These pictures show installation of V-Blades tail blad es as an option. Others ma y be used and install the same way. Just make sure they are balanced, and should be no longer than 110mm, the minimum is 95mm. Your kit may come with plastic white tail bl ades. Use a spacer on each side of the tail blades, inserting into the blade grip, then installing the ta il special bolt with 3M locknut. Again note the direction of rotation. Do not overtight en, as you want the tail blades to be able to straighten themselves when spun up.

Boom supports are next and can be identified by the th read cut inside of the tubes. These are aluminum also, not Carbon Fiber. The ends are made of delrin.

Thread the ends into the boom supports using JB We ld to secure. Let dry ove rnight, making sure the ends are parallel with each other while they dry. Aft er drying, attach to the horizontal fin clamp, using a 3X30 SHCS, 2 ea 3M washers, and a 3M locknut. Don’t tighten yet.Install the Horizontal Fin using 2 ea 3X8 SHCS with a drop of CA glue in place of loctite. Your fins may be solid or have lightening holes in them.

The vertical fin is mounted using 2 sets of boom clam ps and 4 ea 3X35 SHCS inserted into the fin, then 1 half of the clamp over the bolts. Place the fin a nd clamps onto the boom with the rear clamp up against the gearbox.

Install the other clamp half and secure with 4 ea 3M locknuts, making sure the fin is vertical to the gearbox.The tail servo mount is installed betw een the vertical and horizontal fins using 2 sets of boom clamps, and 4 ea 3X30 SHCS and 4 ea 3M locknuts. It’s position will be adjusted after inst alling the servo. The push rod can be installed also, but will need to be adjusted later as well. Use the 140mm pushrod.

Install the boom assembly into the boom clamps at the rear of the fr ames, pushing it all the way in to engage the dogbone into the delrin cup. Once engaged, pull back 1 mm to relieve any pressure on the

drive train. Attach the boom supports to the bo ttom of the frames using 2 ea 3X10 SHCS and 3M

locknuts.

Secure the 3X30 SHCS at the horizontal fin clamp, making sure the horizontal fin is level, and the

vertical fin is vertical! ☺ , then tighten the boom clamps in th e frames to secure the boom assembly.The pushrods are made up of 2.5mm SS rods with threa ds rolled onto them and the famed Rocket City

Links threaded onto the rods. There are a lot of rods and a lot of links. Most rods are in pairs. Start with these and find the most logical fit for the pushrods. St art with the collective pushrods from the single and triple bellcranks to the co llective arms (popsickle sticks), these pus hrods are 78 mm from center of hole to center of hole using the 50 mm long pushrods. Next in stall the pushrod from the “X” arm to the elevator bellcrank; these are 70 mm long, center to cent er, and also use the 50 mm long pushrods.

The pushrods from the aileron bellcranks the swashp late are 60 mm long, center to center, using the 40 mm long pushrods. The pushrods from washout arms to flybar arms are 48 mm long, center to center, using the 30mm long pushrods.

The pushrods from the seesaw to bell-hiller mixer re quire trimming of the ball li nk, cut 1⁄4” off of the end and thread onto the 3X12 setscrew. The leng th will be 30 mm from center to center.The pushrod from the swashplate to the bell-hiller mixer is 98 mm fr om center to center, using the 75 mm long pushrods.

DS 811 servos used for picture taking only. We DO NOT recommend them for use in your Observer EB. Begin installing servos, starting with the throttle ser vo. Snap the plastic servo mo unts into the slots in the frames and install the servo, spline to the front.

Secure the servos with screws provided with JR ser vos, or if using Futaba servos, use 2.5X10 SHCS and

2.5M washers. These screws and washers are available from Bergen R/C. The collective servo uses the plastic servo mount tabs installed in the rubber grommets, as shown.The collective servo is installed between the frames, with the spline to the rear. The aileron servo is

installed on the mount between the co llective arms, spline to the rear.

Install tail rotor servo into rear mount plate with spline forward.

The following is the setup we use for JR radio systems. Futaba users ca n copy the hole pattern from a JR wheel after centering the servos and wheels, mark ing the center or straight up point on the wheel.

At this point you need to have the servos plugged in to the receiver and powered up. All servos need to be centered. This means trims are centered, all sub trims ar e zeroed, and any mixing is turned off. Using a straightedge of some kind, make a lin e from the center of the bellcrank to the center of the servo wheel, in this case we will use the elevator system. In the pict ure, we have turned the wh eel on the spline so the straightedge travels through the 3 ho le sides and the 6 packs are equally spaced on the side. Mark the

rearmost, outermost two holes on the wheel. Th is is where you will install the servo balls. Concerning JR wheels, you may notice a number on th e backside of the wheel. There are at least 5 different wheels that we know of. If you can’t get a cer tain wheel to center properly, rotate it 180 degrees. If that doesn’t help try a different numbered wheel, available from Horizon.When you have each wheel marked, put a ball on a 2X10 Phillips screw, thread a 2M nut up to the ball, then screw the assembly into the wheel at the marked hole.

Thread another 2M nut on the backside of the wheel securing with loctite. Repeat for all the other wheels, with the throttle and tail servo wheel only us ing 1 ball on each. Turn on the radio system again, making sure each servo is centered and reinstall the s ervo wheels onto the servos. Don’t forget to put the

servo wheel screws in!

After the servo wheels are reinstalled with the balls in place and servo screw installed, radio on and centered as before, try placing the pus hrods onto the balls. In the case of the elevator system, you may have the 2 pushrods at slightly different lengths. Try 148 mm to start with on the elevator links using the 130 mm pushrods. In all other cases, aileron and collectiv e, these pushrods need to be identical in length. Whatever the case may be, the lengths that are given in this manual are suggestions, and may differ by a

turn or two on the pushrod. As stated earlier, the only must, is that two identical pushrods need to be

identical.

The aileron servo wheel is centered with the offset to the rear, and pushrods installed as shown, 105 mm long, center to center using the 85 mm long pushrods.Collective servo wheel is installed with the offset to the rear; pushrods are 50 mm long, center to center using 30mm long pushrods.

The throttle servo wheel just uses one ball and pushrod, but still needs to be centered, with ball at the top. Throttle pushrod is 173 mm long center to center using the 140 mm long pushrod. With the servo

centered, the throttle arm shou ld also be centered with the carb at half throttle.

Setting up the throttle requires some math ☺ . Make sure the throttle curve in your radio is a straight line from 0 to 100, no curve just yet. Throttle ATV should also be set at 100%, both low and high. Place the throttle trim all the way down, and st ick all the way down. This is the engine shut off position. Now try to place the ball link onto the ball on the throttle arm, with it all the way closed. It will probably be off a little bit. Adjust the low ATV to the amount necessary to pop the ball link onto the ball. Now go to full

throttle, leaving the trim all the way down. Again tr y to place the link onto the ball. You will need to open the throttle on the carb, by hand, to its wide op en position. Adjust the HIGH ATV this time, to the amount necessary to pop the link onto the ball. Fi gure the difference between the high and low numbers on your ATV’s, for instance, the low is 95 and the high is 85. The differen ce is 10. Divide that number in

half and add to the lower number, subtract it from the higher number, so you end up with 90 on both high and low ATV’s. Now adjust the length of the th rottle pushrod to snap on the ball at both the high and low ATV. This will give you a perfect linear th rottle setup with half throttle at half stick.Install Gyro on the mounting plate, preferably with the green Zeal anti vibration gel, and connect to servo and receiver. Use a long servo extension wire to connect the servo to the Gyro, securing the connections with tape or heatshrink.

Install the on-off switch for the heli in this location. Yo u’ll notice 2 slots for the switches in the case of the Dual Redundant Battery system available from Bergen R/C or ElectroDynamics.com

With all the pushrods installed, now is a good time to go back and ream a ll of the links to obtain a perfect

fit on all of the balls of the cont rol system. There are readily available ball link sizing tools, such as the one from JR pictured above. I have modified it to chuck into a drill, which makes the process go a little

quicker. It also requires mo difying the size of the ball on the end by cutting the slit a little deeper and tightening the screw a little farther in to obtain the required amount needed to re am off the inside of the ball link. Alternately you can make your own reamer wi th an extra ball, scarred up with a pair of side cutters, and spun inside of the link to remove material. GO SLOWLY, until you get a feel for how much

to ream for a perfect fit. Bear in mind that temp erature makes a difference as well, meaning that balls reamed in the winter may require reaming again in the summer.The radio setup numbers for JR radio is as follows; Futaba radios will be similar but may require slight changes. The tail setup procedure is suggested using a GY401 gyro and 9254 servo. ATV’s or travel limits;

Aileron 115%

Elevator 85%

Collective 100%

Rudder 90% Gyro Gain HH 90% Gyro Gain non-HH 80% Throttle as described previously. Rudder ATV set’s the pirouette rate, not servo throw.

Ensure that all servo directions are correc t, especially the gyro and tail servo.

Turn on the transmitter, make sure the switch for turning heading hold on and off, is ON. Turn on power for the heli, watching the light on the gyro. It’ll blink, then go steady red if setup properly. If not, try reversing the direction of the swit ch on whatever location you chose to connect it to the receiver. Now turn the heading hold function off.

Make sure the ball on the servo wheel is straight down , then adjust the length of the pushrod to center the tail pitch slider on the output shaft as shown.

With full rudder stick, adjust the travel on the pot on the gyro to gi ve full travel without bottoming out

on the gearbox or tail hub. The travel should end up being between 100 and 120 on the gyro. If not, change the position of the ball on the servo in or out as needed to get between 100 and 120.To static track the tail blades, tr y this. Fold both blades up against the blade grips. Push one blade in

until it touches the bolt for the vertical fin mount. Without changing the pitch, carefully rotate the tail system until the opposite blade comes close to the same bolt.

Adjust the length of one special ballink until both bl ades touch the bolt when rotated. Now check your travel limits again to see if adjustments are needed.Install the NHP 800 MM Blades, first insert ing the brass bushing into the root.

Put a plastic spacer on each side of the blade root and slide the asse mbly into the blade grip. Note direction of rotation, in this case , clockwise as viewed from above the rotors. Install a 4X25 SHCS w/shoulder through the assembly and secure with a 4M locknut. Tighten the blade bolts enough that the

blades will not fold when the heli is turned on its side and shaken.

For pitch setup we offer a flybar lock with flag or use your favorite meth od of centering the flybar. Place

a pitch gauge on one of the blades. Pitch setup is a personal preference thing, but here’s our suggested pitch range.With the pushrod lengths given earlier you should be clos e to a 0 degree pitch at half stick, -6 or so at bottom stick and +11 or +12 at full stick. If you prefer to hover at half stick, adjust the pitch curve in the radio to get the setup that you prefer.

As an option, we offer a velocity stack for your carb, doing away with th e somewhat restricting air filter.

If you are flying in a dusty area, we do not recommend this. You also lose the choke function built into the air filter, but you can get a carb with the choke built in, as shown.

We also recommend a base loaded antenna, such as the Revolution brand shown here, available from Horizon Hobbies. We also have the angle brackets shown to attach them to the framework. We recommend using a Strongbox for your receiver from Soni c-Tronics, also available through us at Bergen R/C. Either way, attach your receiver and battery pa cks securely to the battery tray using padding and tye-wraps or Velcro.You can install Pool Noodles on the landing gear as a visual aid; you may need to divert the exhaust as shown to prevent melting the foam.

Install the Pan and Tilt rece iver in between the framework at the to p, with padding, and secure with tyewraps or Velcro. The battery pack is secured lo wer down in the frames, again with padding and tyewraps or Velcro.

Your downlink system can be attached under the cam era plate, with battery pack strapped to the side.

For test flights, we do not recommend strapping you r camera on board, however you will need dummy ballast to balance the helicopter. The CG needs to be maintained on the mainsh aft, with a full tank of fuel. This way, as fuel is burned off, the CG is pushed forward instead of aft. Check the needle settings on your ca rburetor. They should be 1-3/8 th on both needles. There are no factory settings on the carb, don’t trust it. Fuel up your helicopter by removing the return line fr om the carb and hooking it up to your pump on your fuel can. After filling, hook the return back up to the carb. Pump the bulb, if installed, until you get clear fuel back through the return line. You may st ill have a bubble in the bulb , it’s ok. If you don’t have a bulb on your carb, choke it while pulling th e start cord until fuel travels to the carb. Push the throttle trim up halfway, k eeping the throttle stic k all the way down. En sure the Idle up switch

is in normal mode. Place one hand on the rotor head , and one foot on the skid. With the choke on, pull until the engine “pops”, typically 3 pulls. Turn the ch oke off, and continue pulling until the engine starts, typically 1 or 2 pulls. Adjust the idle speed by adjusting the throttle trim.Slowly spool up the blades, checking the tracking. Adju st as necessary by adjusting the length of the pushrod from the swashplate to the bell mixer. Hover RPM should be between 1450 to 1650 depending on payload, local conditions, and altitude. Adjust the RPM, using the throttle and pitch curves, to obtain the smoothest possible platform for your camera.