# Patent

## Title
Poly-α-olefin-containing cosmetic composition

## Abstract

The invention is directed to a cosmetic composition which contains at least one poly-α-olefin produced by subjecting at least one primary alcohol to dehydrating polymerization at a temperature of 60° C. to 340° C. in the presence of acidic alumino layer silicates. The primary alcohol is an alcohol from the group of unsaturated monofunctional alcohols, branched monofunctional alcohols and difunctional alcohols. The poly-α-olefin is a high-spreading oil component which imparts an almost instantaneous and relatively long-lasting feeling of smoothness to the skin and has good dermatological compatibility.

## Background
RELATED APPLICATIONS
This application is filed under 35 U.S.C. §371 claiming priority from application PCT/EP2004/003699 filed Apr. 7, 2004, which claims priority from German application DE 103 17 781.7 filed Apr. 16, 2003; the entire contents of each application are incorporated herein by reference.
FIELD OF THE INVENTION
This invention relates to new cosmetic compositions containing certain poly-α-olefins and to the use of these poly-α-olefins as oil components in cosmetic and pharmaceutical preparations. The cosmetic or pharmaceutical preparations show good dermatological compatibility and impart a particularly light feeling on the skin.
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
Consumers expect cosmetic skin- and hair-care emulsions to satisfy a range of requirements. Apart from the cleaning and skin-/hair-care effects which determine the intended application, value is placed on such diverse parameters as very high dermatological compatibility, good lipid-layer-enhancing properties, elegant appearance, optimal sensory impression and stability in storage.
Besides a number of surfactants, preparations used to clean and care for the human skin and hair contain, above all, oil components and water. The oil components/emollients used include, for example, hydrocarbons, ester oils and vegetable and animal oils/fats/waxes. In order to meet stringent commercial requirements in regard to sensory properties and optimal dermatological compatibility, new oil components and emulsifier mixtures are continually being developed and tested. A large number of natural and synthetic oils, for example almond or avocado oil, ester oils, ethers, alkyl carbonates, hydrocarbons and silicone oils, are used in the production of cosmetic or pharmaceutical preparations. A key function of the oil components—besides their care effect which is directly related to lipid layer enhancement of the skin—is to provide the skin of consumers with a non-sticky, almost instantaneous and long-lasting feeling of smoothness and suppleness.
The subjective feeling on the skin can be correlated and objectivized with the physicochemical parameters of the spreading of the oil components on the skin, as illustrated by U. Zeidler in the journal Fette, Seifen, Anstrichmittel 87, 403 (1985). According to this reference, cosmetic oil components can be classified as low-spreading (<300 mm2/10 mins.), medium-spreading (>/=300 to 1000 mm2/10 mins.) and high-spreading oils (>/=1000 mm2/10 mins.). If a high-spreading oil is used as the oil component in a predetermined formulation, the required feeling of smoothness of the skin is achieved very quickly and, where cyclomethicones, for example Dow Corning 245 fluid (Dow Corning Corporation) or Abil® B 8839 (Goldschmidt Chemical Corporation), are used, a velvety feeling desirable to the consumer is also obtained. Unfortunately, the experience does not last long because the high volatility of the last-mentioned structures means that the pronounced feeling of smoothness and hence the velvety feel disappear very quickly, leaving the skin with an unpleasant, dull feeling.
However, cyclomethicones have the advantage over other hydrocarbon-based emollients, such as very light mineral oils, polybutylenes (for example Arlamol® HD, ICI), ethyl hexyl cyclohexane (Cetiol® S, Cognis Deutschland GmbH & Co. KG), that they have a very light feeling on the skin. Accordingly, there is a need for hydrocarbon-based oil components/emollients which combine the advantages of the cyclomethicones, such as a light feeling on the skin and good spreading properties, without having any of their disadvantages.
The problem addressed by the present invention was to provide improved, high-spreading oil components and preparations containing them which would impart an almost instantaneous and relatively long-lasting feeling of smoothness to the skin and which would show good dermatological compatibility. In addition, the oil components would lend themselves to simple and stable incorporation in emulsions, would be hydrolysis-stable in the event of pH variations and would lead to low-viscosity compositions imparting a very light feeling on the skin.
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition containing at least one poly-α-olefin obtainable by subjecting at least one primary alcohol to dehydrating polymerization at 60 to 340° C. in the presence of acidic alumino layer silicate, the primary alcohol being selected from the group consisting of

    a) unsaturated monofunctional alcohols,
    b) branched monofunctional alcohols and
    c) difunctional alcohols.




DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
The poly-α-olefins used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention have already been described. They are mentioned in applicants' German patent application DE 10152267 and in International patent application PCT/EP02/11392. Besides describing the compounds themselves, the documents in question also contain detailed information on their production. These documents are incorporated herein by reference in their entireties.
Purely by way of a brief summary, it is pointed out that the reaction of the primary alcohol is preferably carried out in an inert gas atmosphere with continuous removal of the water formed. The acidic alumino layer silicate used as catalyst preferably has an acid charge of 3 to 300 mval/100 g. Examples of alumino layer silicates are talcum and clays with a sheet structure, such as kaolinite, montmorillonite, bentonites and hectorites. It is appropriate to carry out the reaction with removal of water until no more water is eliminated. The reaction times are normally in the range from 2 to 48 hours. The catalyst is then removed, for example by filtration. The degree of oligomerization of the poly-α-olefins is in the range from 1 to 10. The adjustment of a particular degree of oligomerization can be achieved by returning the olefin entrained during the continuous removal of water to the reaction mixture, which leads to relatively high degrees of oligomerization. The poly-α-olefins obtained are odorless, colorless or yellowish products which may be liquid or solid. There is no exact structural formula for the poly-α-olefins obtained because, under the dehydrating polymerization conditions, the primary alcohols in question are isomerized into various unsaturated monomers which then polymerize with one another.
The primary alcohols mentioned may be used individually or in admixture with one another. Whereas the alkyl chain of the group b) alcohols is branched, the alkyl chains of the primary alcohols of groups a) and c) may be either linear or branched. The unsaturated alcohols may be mono- or polyunsaturated, more particularly olefinically unsaturated.
Preferred cosmetic compositions are those in which the primary alcohol contains 6 to 72 carbon atoms and more particularly 6 to 24 carbon atoms.
The group a) alcohol is preferably a linear alcohol. Examples of unsaturated monofunctional alcohols of group a) are 10-undecen-1-ol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, ricinolyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol.
The group b) alcohol is preferably an alcohol selected from the group of branched alcohols having b1) at least one methyl group and, more particularly, 1 to 6 methyl branches in the alkyl chain, b2) a C2-18 branch in the alkyl chain and b3) a C2-18 branch in the α-position to the terminal CH2OH group.
In the case of group b1) with at least one methyl branch in the alkyl chain, the methyl group may be positioned anywhere in the alkyl chain. Suitable examples are isooctyl alcohol, isononyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol or isotridecyl alcohol. Of these, isononyl alcohol is particularly preferred. Where there are several methyl groups, they preferably number 2 to 6 in any distribution over the alkyl chain of the alcohol. In the case of group b2) alcohols branched by a C2-18 alkyl group, there are preferably no other branches in the alkyl chain of the alcohol.
Other suitable primary monofunctional branched alcohols are the Guerbet alcohols known to the expert which are obtainable by dimerization of fatty alcohols and which, structurally, are distinguished by the presence of a relatively long alkyl chain, preferably with 2 to 18 carbon atoms, in the α-position to the terminal CH2OH group. Suitable Guerbet alcohols are 2-hexyl decanol, 2-butyl octanol, 2-octyl dodecanol and 2-hexyldecyl palmitate/stearate, 2-ethyl hexanol and 2-propyl heptanol. 2-Ethyl hexyl alcohol is preferred.
Suitable group c) alcohols, i.e. difunctional alcohols (with 2 hydroxyl groups), are saturated or unsaturated diols, such as pentane-1,5-diol, octane-1,8-diol, hexane-1,6-diol, decane-1,10-diol, dodecane-1,12-diol, octadecane-1,12-diol or the dimer diols known to the expert.
The poly-α-olefins may be used in unsaturated form in the cosmetic composition according to the invention. In the interests of greater oxidation stability, however, the poly-α-olefins are preferably hydrogenated after the dehydrating polymerization and used in the hydrogenated (hardened) form in the compositions according to the invention.
The hydrogenation is described in the above-cited International patent application PCT/EP02/11392 and may be carried out in known manner at temperatures in the range from 150° C. to 250° C. and preferably at temperatures in the range from 190 to 210° C. and under pressures of 20 to 150 bar (low-pressure process) or 150 to 350 bar (high-pressure process). Suitable catalysts are the hydrogenation catalysts known from the prior art, such as nickel or the noble metal catalysts, more particularly based on palladium or platinum. Particularly suitable noble metal catalysts are palladium catalysts, more particularly palladium on coal. The catalyst may be added to the poly-α-olefins in typical quantities either in the form of a suspension or in solid form. For the preferred palladium on coal, the quantities used are in the range from 0.001 to 5% by weight, expressed as palladium. However, the catalyst may also be applied to a solid carrier material, such as active charcoal, graphite, kieselguhr, silica gel, spinels, aluminium oxide or ceramic materials. Other suitable catalysts are nickel catalysts, for example suspended nickel, such as Nysofact 101 I a (Engelhard), which is preferably used in quantities of 0.01 to 5% by weight, based on nickel.
As already mentioned, the described poly-α-olefins are colorless to pale yellowish, substantially odorless compounds with high spreading values, typically above 1,000 mm2/10 minutes and preferably above 1,600 mm2/10 minutes (Zeidler's definition). Accordingly, they are eminently suitable for use as oil components in cosmetic or pharmaceutical preparations. Wherever poly-α-olefins in general are mentioned in the following, both the hydrogenated and the non-hydrogenated compounds are included.
Cosmetic Preparations
The compound according to the invention allows the production of stable cosmetic emulsions. These cosmetic emulsions are preferably body care formulations, for example in the form of creams, milks, lotions, sprayable emulsions, products for eliminating body odor, etc. The compound according to the invention may also be used in surfactant-containing formulations such as, for example, foam and shower baths, hair shampoos and care rinses.
The cosmetic preparations may be formulated as emulsions or dispersions which contain water and the oil phase alongside one another. Preferred cosmetic compositions are those in the form of a w/o or o/w emulsion with the usual concentrations—known to the expert—of oils/fats/waxes, emulsifiers, water and the other auxiliaries and additives typically used in cosmetic preparations.
The cosmetic composition according to the invention contains 1 to 50% by weight, preferably 5 to 40% by weight and more particularly 5 to 25% by weight oil of components which, together for example with oil-soluble surfactants/emulsifiers and oil-soluble active components, form part of the so-called oil or fatty phase. In the context of the invention, the oil components include fatty compounds, waxes and liquid oils, but not emulsifiers/surfactants. The poly-α-olefins may be present as sole oil component or in combination with other oils/fats/waxes. The percentage content of the at least one poly-α-olefin, based on the total quantity of oil components, is 0.1 to 100% by weight and preferably 1 to 50% by weight. Quantities of 1 to 20% by weight and more especially 3 to 20% by weight are particularly preferred.
Depending on the particular application envisaged, the cosmetic formulations contain a number of other auxiliaries and additives, such as, for example, surface-active substances (surfactants, emulsifiers), other oil components, pearlizing waxes, consistency factors, thickeners, superfatting agents, stabilizers, polymers, silicone compounds, fats, waxes, lecithins, phospholipids, biogenic agents, UV protection factors, antioxidants, deodorants, antiperspirants, antidandruff agents, film formers, swelling agents, insect repellents, self-tanning agents, tyrosinase inhibitors (depigmenting agents), hydrotropes, solubilizers, preservatives, perfume oils, dyes, etc. which are listed by way of example in the following.
The quantities of the particular additives are governed by the particular application envisaged. In another preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition contains 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably 1 to 15% by weight and more particularly 1 to 10% by weight of a surface-active substance or a mixture of surface-active substances.
Surface-Active Substances
The surface-active substances present may be anionic, nonionic, cationic and/or amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants or emulsifiers or a mixture thereof. In surfactant-containing cosmetic preparations such as, for example, shower gels, foam baths, shampoos, etc., at least one anionic surfactant is preferably present. Body-care creams and lotions preferably contain nonionic surfactants/emulsifiers.
Typical examples of anionic surfactants are soaps, alkyl benzene-sulfonates, alkanesulfonates, olefin sulfonates, alkylether sulfonates, glycerol ether sulfates, α-methyl ester sulfonates, sulfofatty acids, alkyl sulfates, fatty alcohol ether sulfates, glycerol ether sulfates, fatty acid ether sulfates, hydroxy mixed ether sulfates, monoglyceride (ether) sulfates, fatty acid amide (ether) sulfates, mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinates, mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinamates, sulfotriglycerides, amide soaps, ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, N-acylamino acids such as, for example, acyl lactylates, acyl tartrates, acyl glutamates and acyl aspartates, alkyl oligoglucoside sulfates, protein fatty acid condensates (particularly wheat-based vegetable products) and alkyl (ether) phosphates. If the anionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, they may have a conventional homolog distribution although they preferably have a narrow-range homolog distribution. Typical examples of nonionic surfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycol ethers, polyglycerol esters, alkylphenol polyglycol ethers, fatty acid polyglycol esters, fatty acid amide polyglycol ethers, fatty amine polyglycol ethers, alkoxylated triglycerides, mixed ethers and mixed formals, optionally partly oxidized alk(en)yl oligoglycosides or glucuronic acid derivatives, fatty acid-N-alkyl glucamides, protein hydrolyzates (particularly wheat-based vegetable products), polyol fatty acid esters, sugar esters, sorbitan esters, polysorbates and amine oxides. If the nonionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, they may have a conventional homolog distribution, although they preferably have a narrow-range homolog distribution. Typical examples of cationic surfactants are quatemary ammonium compounds, for example dimethyl distearyl ammonium chloride, and esterquats, more particularly quaternized fatty acid trialkanolamine ester salts. Typical examples of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are alkylbetaines, alkylamidobetaines, aminopropionates, aminoglycinates, imidazolinium betaines and sulfobetaines. The surfactants mentioned are all known compounds. Information on their structure and production can be found in relevant synoptic works in this field. Typical examples of particularly suitable mild, i.e. particularly dermatologically compatible, surfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycol ether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, mono- and/or dialkyl sulfosuccinates, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, fatty acid glutamates, α-olefin sulfonates, ether carboxylic acids, alkyl oligoglucosides, fatty acid glucamides, alkylamidobetaines, amphoacetals and/or protein fatty acid condensates, preferably based on wheat proteins.
Oil Components
Body care preparations, such as creams, lotions and milks, normally contain a number of other oil components and emollients which contribute towards further optimizing their sensory properties. Suitable oil components are, for example, Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols containing 6 to 18 and preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms, esters of linear C6-22 fatty acids with linear or branched C6-22 fatty alcohols or esters of branched C6-13 carboxylic acids with linear or branched C6-22 fatty alcohols such as, for example, myristyl myristate, myristyl palmitate, myristyl stearate, myristyl isostearate, myristyl oleate, myristyl behenate, myristyl erucate, cetyl myristate, cetyl palmitate, cetyl stearate, cetyl isostearate, cetyl oleate, cetyl behenate, cetyl erucate, stearyl myristate, stearyl palmitate, stearyl stearate, stearyl isostearate, stearyl oleate, stearyl behenate, stearyl erucate, isostearyl myristate, isostearyl palmitate, isostearyl stearate, isostearyl isostearate, isostearyl oleate, isostearyl behenate, isostearyl oleate, oleyl myristate, oleyl palmitate, oleyl stearate, oleyl isostearate, oleyl oleate, oleyl behenate, oleyl erucate, behenyl myristate, behenyl palmitate, behenyl stearate, behenyl isostearate, behenyl oleate, behenyl behenate, behenyl erucate, erucyl myristate, erucyl palmitate, erucyl stearate, erucyl isostearate, erucyl oleate, erucyl behenate and erucyl erucate. Also suitable are esters of linear C6-22 fatty acids with branched alcohols, more particularly 2-ethyl hexanol and isopropanol, esters of C18-38 alkylhydroxycarboxylic acids with linear or branched C6-22 fatty alcohols, more especially Dioctyl Malate, esters of linear and/or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols (for example propylene glycol, dimer diol or trimer triol) and/or Guerbet alcohols, triglycerides based on C6-10 fatty acids, liquid mono-, di- and triglyceride mixtures based on C6-18 fatty acids, esters of C6-22 fatty alcohols and/or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids, more particularly benzoic acid, esters of C2-12 dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched alcohols containing 1 to 22 carbon atoms or polyols containing 2 to 10 carbon atoms and 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups, vegetable oils, branched primary alcohols, substituted cyclohexanes, linear and branched C6-22 fatty alcohol carbonates, such as Dicaprylyl Carbonate (Cetiol® CC) for example, Guerbet carbonates based on C6-18 and preferably C8-10 fatty alcohols, esters of benzoic acid with linear and/or branched C6-22 alcohols (for example Finsolv® TN), linear or branched, symmetrical or nonsymmetrical dialkyl ethers containing 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, such as Dicaprylyl Ether (Cetiol® OE) for example, ring opening products of epoxidized fatty acid esters with polyols, silicone oils (cyclomethicone, silicon methicone types, etc.) and/or aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons such as, for example, mineral oil, Vaseline, petrolatum, isohexadecanes, squalane, squalene or dialkyl cyclohexanes.
Fats and Waxes
Fats and waxes are added to the body care products both as care components and to increase the consistency of the cosmetic preparations. Typical examples of fats are glycerides, i.e. solid or liquid, vegetable or animal products which consist essentially of mixed glycerol esters of higher fatty acids. Fatty acid partial glycerides, i.e. technical mono- and/or di-esters of glycerol with C12-18 fatty acids, such as for example glycerol mono/dilaurate, palmitate or stearate, may also be used for this purpose. Suitable waxes are inter alia natural waxes such as, for example, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japan wax, espartograss wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice oil wax, sugar cane wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, beeswax, shellac wax, spermaceti, lanolin (wool wax), uropygial fat, ceresine, ozocerite (earth wax), petrolatum, paraffin waxes and microwaxes; chemically modified waxes (hard waxes) such as, for example, montan ester waxes, sasol waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes and synthetic waxes such as, for example, polyalkylene waxes and polyethylene glycol waxes.
Suitable pearlizing waxes are, for example, alkylene glycol esters, especially ethylene glycol distearate; fatty acid alkanolamides, especially cocofatty acid diethanolamide; partial glycerides, especially stearic acid monoglyceride; esters of polybasic, optionally hydroxysubstituted carboxylic acids with fatty alcohols containing 6 to 22 carbon atoms, especially long-chain esters of tartaric acid; fatty compounds, such as for example fatty alcohols, fatty ketones, fatty aldehydes, fatty ethers and fatty carbonates which contain in all at least 24 carbon atoms, especially laurone and distearylether; fatty acids, such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid or behenic acid, ring opening products of olefin epoxides containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms with fatty alcohols containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms and/or polyols containing 2 to 15 carbon atoms and 2 to 10 hydroxyl groups and mixtures thereof.
Thickeners
Suitable thickeners are, for example, Aerosil® types (hydrophilic silicas), polysaccharides, more especially xanthan gum, guar-guar, agar-agar, alginates and tyloses, carboxymethyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl and hydroxypropyl cellulose, polyacrylates (for example Carbopols® and Pemulen types [Goodrich]; Synthalens® [Sigma]; Keltrol types [Kelco]; Sepigel types [Seppic]; Salcare types [Allied Colloids]), polyacrylamides, polymers, polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinyl pyrrolidone. Other consistency factors which have proved to be particularly effective are bentonites, for example Bentone® Gel VS-5PC (Rheox) which is a mixture of cyclopentasiloxane, Disteardimonium Hectorite and propylene carbonate, and a sodium polyacrylate known as Cosmedia® SP. Other suitable consistency factors are electrolytes, such as sodium chloride and ammonium chloride.
Stabilizers
Metal salts of fatty acids such as, for example, magnesium, aluminium and/or zinc stearate or ricinoleate may be used as stabilizers.
UV Protection Factors and Antioxidants
UV protection factors in the context of the invention are, for example, organic substances (light filters) which are liquid or crystalline at room temperature and which are capable of absorbing ultraviolet radiation and of releasing the energy absorbed in the form of longer-wave radiation, for example heat. UV-B filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. The following are examples of oil-soluble substances:

    3-benzylidene camphor or 3-benzylidene norcamphor and derivatives thereof, for example 3-(4-methylbenzylidene)-camphor;
    4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4-(dimethylamino)-benzoic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester, 4-(dimethylamino)-benzoic acid-2-octyl ester and 4-(dimethylaminoybenzoic acid amyl ester;
    esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid propyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isoamyl ester, 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Octocrylene);
    esters of salicylic acid, preferably salicylic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester, salicylic acid-4-isopropylbenzyl ester, salicylic acid homomenthyl ester;
    derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4′-methylbenzophenone, 2,2′-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;
    esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonic acid di-2-ethylhexyl ester;
    triazine derivatives such as, for example, 2,4,6-trianilino-(p-carbo-2′-ethyl-1′-hexyloxy)-1,3,5-triazine and Octyl Triazone or Dioctyl Butamido Triazone (Uvasorb® HEB);
    propane-1,3-diones such as, for example, 1-(4-tert.butylphenyl)-3-(4′-methoxyphenyl)-propane-1,3-dione;
    ketotricyclo(5.2.1.0)decane derivatives.


Suitable water-soluble substances are

    2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts thereof and 2,2-(1,4-phenylene)-bis-1H-benzimidazole-4,6-disulfonic acid and salts thereof, more particularly the sodium salt;
    sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and salts thereof;
    sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor such as, for example, 4-(2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl)-benzene sulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5-(2-oxo-3-bornylidene)-sulfonic acid and salts thereof.


Typical UV-A filters are, in particular, derivatives of benzoyl methane such as, for example, 1-(4′-tert.butylphenyl)-3-(4′-methoxyphenyl)-propane-1,3-dione, 4-tert.butyl-4′-methoxydibenzoyl methane (Parsol® 1789) or 1-phenyl-3-(4′-isopropylphenyl)-propane-1,3-dione and enamine compounds. The UV-A and UV-B filters may of course also be used in the form of mixtures. Particularly favorable combinations consist of the derivatives of benzoyl methane, for example 4-tert.butyl-4′-methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol® 1789) and 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamic acid-2-ethyl hexyl ester (Octocrylene) in combination with esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid-2-ethyl hexyl ester and/or 4-methoxycinnamic acid propyl ester and/or 4-methoxycinnamic acid isoamyl ester. Combinations such as these are advantageously combined with water-soluble filters such as, for example, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts thereof.
Besides the soluble substances mentioned, insoluble light-blocking pigments, i.e. finely dispersed metal oxides or salts, may also be used for this purpose. Examples of suitable metal oxides are, in particular, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide. Silicates (talcum), barium sulfate and zinc stearate may be used as salts. The oxides and salts are used in the form of the pigments for skin-care and skin-protecting emulsions.
Besides the two groups of primary sun protection factors mentioned above, secondary sun protection factors of the antioxidant type may also be used. Secondary sun protection factors of the antioxidant type interrupt the photochemical reaction chain which is initiated when UV rays penetrate into the skin.
Biogenic Agents
In the context of the invention, biogenic agents are, for example, tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, ascorbic acid, (deoxy)ribonucleic acid and fragmentation products thereof, β-glucans, retinol, bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol, panthenol, AHA acids, amino acids, ceramides, pseudoceramides, essential oils, plant extracts, for example prunus extract, bambara nut extract, and vitamin complexes.
Deodorants
Deodorants counteract, mask or eliminate body odors. Body odors are formed through the action of skin bacteria on apocrine perspiration which results in the formation of unpleasant-smelling degradation products. Accordingly, deodorants contain active principles which act as germ inhibitors, enzyme inhibitors, odor absorbers or odor maskers.
Germ Inhibitors

    
    
        Basically, suitable germ inhibitors are any substances which act against gram-positive bacteria such as, for example, 4-hydroxybenzoic acid and salts and esters thereof, N-(4-chloro-phenyl)-N′-(3,4-dichlorophenyl)-urea, 2,4,4′-trichloro-2′-hydroxy-diphenylether (triclosan), 4-chloro-3,5-dimethylphenol, 2,2′-methylene-bis-(6-bromo-4-chlorophenol), 3-methyl-4-(1-methyl-ethyl)-phenol, 2-benzyl-4-chlorophenol, 3-(4-chlorophenoxy)-propane-1,2-diol, 3-iodo-2-propinyl butyl carbamate, chlorhexidine, 3,4,4′-trichlorocarbanilide (TTC), antibacterial perfumes, thymol, thyme oil, eugenol, clove oil, menthol, mint oil, farnesol, phenoxyethanol, glycerol monocaprate, glycerol monocaprylate, glycerol monolaurate (GML), diglycerol monocaprate (DMC), salicylic acid-N-alkylamides such as, for example, salicylic acid-n-octyl amide or salicylic acid-n-decyl amide.
    
    


Enzyme Inhibitors

    
    
        Suitable enzyme inhibitors are, for example, esterase inhibitors. Esterase inhibitors are preferably trialkyl citrates, such as trimethyl citrate, tripropyl citrate, triisopropyl citrate, tributyl citrate and, in particular, triethyl citrate (Hydagen® CAT). Esterase inhibitors inhibit enzyme activity and thus reduce odor formation. Other esterase inhibitors are sterol sulfates or phosphates such as, for example, lanosterol, cholesterol, campesterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol sulfate or phosphate, dicarboxylic acids and esters thereof, for example glutaric acid, glutaric acid monoethyl ester, glutaric acid diethyl ester, adipic acid, adipic acid monoethyl ester, adipic acid diethyl ester, malonic acid and malonic acid diethyl ester, hydroxycarboxylic acids and esters thereof, for example citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or tartaric acid diethyl ester, and zinc glycinate.
    
    


Odor Absorbers

    
    
        Suitable odor absorbers are substances which are capable of absorbing and largely retaining the odor-forming compounds. They reduce the partial pressure of the individual components and thus also reduce the rate at which they spread. An important requirement in this regard is that perfumes must remain unimpaired. Odor absorbers are not active against bacteria. They contain, for example, a complex zinc salt of ricinoleic acid or special perfumes of largely neutral odor known to the expert as “fixateurs” such as, for example, extracts of ladanum or styrax or certain abietic acid derivatives as their principal component. Odor maskers are perfumes or perfume oils which, besides their odor-masking function, impart their particular perfume note to the deodorants.

Antiperspirants

    
    


Antiperspirants reduce perspiration and thus counteract underarm wetness and body odor by influencing the activity of the eccrine sweat glands.
Suitable astringent active principles of antiperspirants are, above all, salts of aluminium, zirconium or zinc. Suitable antihydrotic agents of this type are, for example, aluminium chloride, aluminium chlorohydrate, aluminium dichlorohydrate, aluminium sesquichlorohydrate and complex compounds thereof, for example with 1,2-propylene glycol, aluminium hydroxyallantoinate, aluminium chloride tartrate, aluminium zirconium trichlorohydrate, aluminium zirconium tetrachlorohydrate, aluminium zirconium pentachlorohydrate and complex compounds thereof, for example with amino acids, such as glycine.
Antidandruff Agents
Suitable antidandruff agents are piroctone olamine (1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6-(2,4,4-trimethylpentyl)-2-(1H)-pyridinone monoethanolamine salt), Baypival® (Climbazole), Ketoconazol® (4-acetyl-1-{4-[2-(2,4-dichlorophenyl) r-2-(1H-imidazol-1-ylmethyl)-1,3-dioxylan-c-4-ylmethoxy-phenyl}-piperazine, ketoconazole, elubiol, selenium disulfide, colloidal sulfur, sulfur polyethylene glycol sorbitan monooleate, sulfur ricinol polyethoxylate, sulfur tar distillate, salicylic acid (or in combination with hexachlorophene), undecylenic acid, monoethanolamide sulfosuccinate Na salt, Lamepon® UD (protein/undecylenic acid condensate), zinc pyrithione, aluminium pyrithione and magnesium pyrithione/dipyrithione magnesium sulfate.
Insect Repellents
Suitable insect repellents are N,N-diethyl-m-toluamide, pentane-1,2-diol or 3-(N-n-butyl-N-acetylamino)-propionic acid ethyl ester), which is marketed under the name of Insect Repellent® 3535 by Merck KGaA, and butyl acetylaminopropionate.
Self-Tanning Agents and Depigmenting Agents
A suitable self-tanning agent is dihydroxyacetone. Suitable tyrosine inhibitors which prevent the formation of melanin and are used in depigmenting agents are, for example, arbutin, ferulic acid, koji acid, coumaric acid and ascorbic acid (vitamin C).
Hydrotropes
In addition, hydrotropes, for example ethanol, isopropyl alcohol or polyols, may be used to improve flow behavior. Suitable polyols preferably contain 2 to 15 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups.
Preservatives
Suitable preservatives are, for example, phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde solution, parabens, pentanediol or sorbic acid and the silver complexes known under the name of Surfacine® and the other classes of compounds listed in Appendix 6, Parts A and B of the Kosmetikverordnung (“Cosmetics Directive”).
Perfume Oils and Aromas
Suitable perfume oils are mixtures of natural and synthetic perfumes. Natural perfumes include the extracts of blossoms, stems and leaves, fruits, fruit peel, roots, woods, herbs and grasses, needles and branches, resins and balsams. Animal raw materials, for example civet and beaver, and synthetic perfume compounds of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type may also be used.
Dyes
Suitable dyes are any of the substances suitable and approved for cosmetic purposes. Examples include cochineal red A (C.I. 16255), patent blue V (C.I. 42051), indigotin (C.I. 73015), chlorophyllin (C.I. 75810), quino-line yellow (C.I. 47005), titanium dioxide (C.I. 77891), indanthrene blue RS (C.I. 69800) and madder lake (C.I. 58000). These dyes are normally used in concentrations of 0.001 to 0.1% by weight, based on the mixture as a whole.
EXAMPLES
In the following Examples, AV stands for acid value, IV for iodine value and OHV for hydroxyl value.
Example 1
2,700 g isononyl alcohol were heated under nitrogen in the presence of 5% by weight of the catalyst K5 until the separation of water was observed. The reaction mixture was kept at that temperature until there was no further elimination of water. The still hot reaction mixture was removed from the catalyst by filtration and gave a clear colorless product. Analysis: AV=0.1, IV=167, OHV=0.7.
Example 2
1,200 g 2-ethyl hexanol were heated under nitrogen in the presence of 5% by weight of the catalyst K5 until the separation of water was observed. The reaction mixture was kept at that temperature until there was no further elimination of water. The still hot reaction mixture was removed from the catalyst by filtration and gave a clear, colorless product. Analysis: AV=0.2, IV=217, OHV=0.4.
Example 3
1,030 g poly-α-olefin based on isononyl alcohol (obtained from Example 1) and 0.05% by weight palladium on coal were treated with 100 bar hydrogen for 5 hours at 200° C. The catalyst was filtered off and the product deodorized. Analysis: OHV=0.9, AV=1.6, IV=0.1.
Example 4
560 g poly-α-olefin based on 2-ethylhexanol (obtained from Example 2) and 0.05% by weight palladium on coal were treated with 100 bar hydrogen for 5 hours at 200° C. The catalyst was filtered off and the product deodorized. Analysis: OHV=0.1, IV=1.1, AV=0.1.
Cosmetic Compositions
Example 5
The following o/w emulsion was prepared using the poly-α-olefin of Example 3 as oil component:
















Eumulgin ® B2
2% by weight



Lanette ® O
5% by weight



Oil component
16% by weight 



Glycerol
3% by weight



Water
73.85% by weight   



Formalin (37%)
0.15% by weight  










Example 6
The following o/w emulsion was prepared using the poly-α-olefin of Example 3 as oil component:
















Eumulgin ® VL 75
4.5% by weight



Oil component
 16% by weight



Carbopol ®
0.3% by weight



KOH (20%)
0.7% by weight



Glycerol
  3% by weight



Water
75.35% by weight 



Formalin (37%)
0.15% by weight 










Example 7
The following o/w emulsion was prepared using the poly-α-olefin of Example 3 as oil component:
















Dehymuls ® PGPH
5% by weight



Oil component
20% by weight 



Glycerol
5% by weight



Mg sulfate.7H2O
1% by weight



Water
68.85% by weight   



Formalin (37%)
0.15% by weight  










The isononyl oligomer poly-α-olefin had a constant viscosity (ca. 5,000 mPas) over the storage period of 12 weeks at room temperature. The emulsions containing Carbopol® were stable over 4 weeks both at minus 5° C. and at 40, 45 and 50° C.
Table 1 below shows the viscosity and storage stability tests for the emulsion of Example 6 by comparison with emulsions containing Nexbase® 2006 FG or thinly liquid paraffin oil as the oil component. In contrast to the emulsion according to the invention, the comparison emulsions had separated after about 1 week under these conditions.











TABLE 1







Isononyl





oligomer
Paraffin oil.
Nexbase ®



hydrogenated
thinly liquid
2006FG



















Eumulgin ® VL 75
4.50
4.50
4.50


Isononyl oligom.
16.00
—
—


hydrogenated


Paraffin oil, thinly
—
16.00
—


liquid


Nexbase ® 2006FG
—
—
16.00


Carbopol ®
0.30
0.30
0.30


KOH, 20%
0.70
0.70
0.70


Glycerol, 86%
3.00
3.00
3.00


Water, deionized
75.35
75.35
75.35


Formalin, 37%
0.15
0.15
0.15







Viscosity in mPas










Day 1
4000
4800
4800


 1 Weeks
4000
6400
6000


 4 Weeks
4800
—
—


 8 Weeks
5200
—
—


12 Weeks
4800
—
—







Stabilities*










 1 Week RT/−5° C./
1/1/1/1/1
1/1/1/5/5
1/1/1/1/1


40° C./45° C./50° C.


 4 Weeks RT/−5° C./
1/1/1/1/1
5/1/5/—/—
5/5/5/5/5


40° C./45° C./50° C.


 8 Weeks RT/−5° C./
1/1/1/1/1
—/1/—/—/—
—/—/—/—/—


40° C./45° C./50° C.


12 Weeks RT/−5° C./
1/1/1/1/1

—/—/—/—/—


40° C./45° C./50° C.









In Table 1, “1”=stable emulsion, “5”=non-stable emulsions and “-”=emulsions which were clearly unstable, i.e. had separated, RT=room temperature.
Examples of formulations which demonstrate the various potential applications of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention are presented in the following Tables. All quantities represent percentages by weight of the commercially available substances in the composition as a whole.







TABLE 2







O/W sun protection emulsions


















Component
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11





L = Lotion, C = Cream
L
C
S
L
C
L
L
C
L
C
L


Eumulgin ® VL 75





4
4
2





Eumulgin ® B2
2












Tween ® 60



1









Myrj ® 51

3

2









Cutina ® E 24
1


1









Hostaphat ® KL 340 N








2




Lanette ® E


0.5




0.5





Amphisol ® K


1


1

0.5

1



Sodium stearate






1



2


Emulgade ® PL 68/50


1

5




4



Tego ® Care 450









3



Cutina ® MD
2


6


4


6



Lanette ® 14
1


1



2


4


Lanette ® O
1
6


5
2

2





Antaron V 216


1

2
2



1



Emery ® 1780




0.5
0.5







Lanolin, anhydrous, USP






5






Poly-α-olefin (Example 4)
2
2
4
1
2
2
2
1
2
2
1


Myritol ® PC




5








Myritol ® 331
5

8


6

10

2



Finsolv ® TN


1




1
8




Cetiol ® CC

2
5


4
4
2

2



Cetiol ® OE


3





2
3



Dow Corning DC ® 244
4

1

5


2


2


Dow Corning DC ® 2502

1


2








Squatol ® S






4






Silikonöl Wacker AK ® 350

2











Cetiol ® 868




2

4



7


Cetiol ® J 600




3
2



5



Mineral oil



9









Cetiol ® B


1






2



Eutanol ® G













Eutanol ® G 16













Cetiol ® PGL

5







5



Almond oil


2




1





Photonyl ® LS



2





2









Panthenol
1


Bisabolol
0.2


Tocopherol/Tocopherylacetate
1


Photonyl ® LS



















Neo Heliopan ® Hydro (Na salt)
2

2.2

3
3




2


Neo Heliopan AP (Na salt)
2



1.5
2
2

1

1


Neo Heliopan ® 303
3
5
9
4









Neo Heliopan ® BB




1





2


Neo Heliopan ® MBC
2


3

2
2
2


1


Neo Heliopan ® OS








10
7



Neo Heliopan ® E 1000

7.5

6






6


Neo Heliopan ® AV


7.5


7.5
4
5





Uvinul ® T 150
2



2.5


1





Parsol ® 1789

1
1



2

2
2



Zinc oxide NDM
10

5


10

3

5
4


Eusolex ® T 2000




5

3
3


4


Veegum ® Ultra


0.7




1
1




Keltrol ® T


0.2




0.5
0.5




Carbopol ® 980

0.5

0.2
0.2
0.2

0.5
0.1
0.3
0.2


Ethanol









10



Butylene glycol

2

4
3

2
5
2

2


Glycerin
5
5
5

3
3
2

4

3








Preservative, NaOH
q.s.


Water
to 100
















TABLE 3







O/W sun protection emulsions


















Component
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22





L = Lotion, C = Cream
L
L
L
C
L
C
S
C
C
L
L


Eumulgin ® VL 75
4
3
4.5

3



4




Eumulgin ® B2









1



Tween ® 60









1



Myrj ® 51













Cutina ® E 24



2









Hostaphat ® KL 340 N









0.5



Lanette ® E
0.5

0.5
0.5


0.1

0.5




Amphisol ® K
0.5




1
1
1





Sodium stearate




1








Emulgade ® PL 68/50

6



4.5
1
5





Tego ® Care 450
1







4




Cutina ® MD
1


8
6
1



4
1


Lanette ® 14

2





2

1



Lanette ® O



2




1
1



Antaron V 220
1


2


0.5


2
0.5


Poly-α-olefin (Example 4)
4
2
4
6
10
4
2
8
2
1
3


Myritol ® PC








5




Myritol ® 331
12

12


8
8


10
8


Finsolv ® TN




5


3
3




Cetiol ® CC
6

6


5
5






Cetiol ® OE




2





2


Dow Corning DC ® 244

2


1








Dow Corning DC ® 2502

1


1








Ceraphyl ® 45









2
2


Silikonöl Wacker AK ® 350




1








Cetiol ® 868

2











Cetiol ® J 600

2











Mineral oil



10









Cetiol ® B
4

4




4





Eutanol ® G

3



3







Eutanol ® G 16 S
10












Cetiol ® PGL








2




Photonyl ® LS









2









Panthenol
1


Bisabolol
0.2


Tocopherol/Tocopherylacetate
1


















Neo Heliopan ® Hydro (Na salt)









3



Neo Heliopan AP (Na salt)

2

2


2



1


Eusolex ® OCR
6

9

5
7
9

4

7


Neo Heliopan ® BB







1
1

1


Neo Heliopan ® MBC

2

1



3
1

3


Neo Heliopan ® OS
2







7




Neo Heliopan ® E1000

4





5





Neo Heliopan ® AV

4
7.5
5



5
4
7.5



Uvinul ® T 150
1







1.3
1
1


Parsol ® 1789
1







2

1


Z-Cote ® HP 1
7
2
5


7
5

6
2



Eusolex ® T 2000
5
2


10


10

2



Veegum ® Ultra
1.5

1.5


1.5
1.2

1




Keltrol ® T
0.5

0.5


0.5
0.4

0.5




Pemulen ® TR 2

0.3

0.3


0.1
0.2


0.3


Ethanol

5

8









Butylene glycol
1


3
3




8
1


Glycerin
2
4
3
3

3
3
3
5

3








Water/preservative/NaOH
to 100/q.s./q.s
















TABLE 4







W/O sun protection emulsions


















Component
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33





L = Lotion; C = Cream
C
L
C
L
C
L
L
L
L
C
C


Dehymuls ® PGPH
4
2
1
3
3
1
1
2
2
4
1


Monomuls ® 90-O18


2










Lameform ® TGI
2

4

3




1
3


Abil ® EM 90






4






Glucate ® DO










3


Isolan ® PDI





4

2





Arlacel ® 83



2









Elfacos ® ST9








2




Elfacos ® ST37













Arlacel ® P 135

2











Dehymuls ® HRE 7













Zinc stearate
1


1
1


1

1



Microcrystalline wax


5


2




5


Beeswax
1


1



5

7



Tego ® Care CG




1





.5


Prisorine ® 3505
1

1
1

1
1



1


Emery ® 1780


5






4



Wool wax alcohol, anhydrous,










1


USP













Antaron V 216
2












Poly-α-olefin (Example 4)
3
4
2
1
10
2
2
6
3
12
1


Myritol ® PC




3


4





Myritol ® 331
10



3
6




8


Finsolv ® TN



5


5






Cetiol ® CC
12
22



2


2

5


Cetiol ® OE




4

5

4
2



Dow Corning DC ® 244






2






Dow Corning DC ® 2502


1

2








Prisorine ® 3758









2



Silikonöl Wacker AK ® 350



4



3





Cetiol ® 868









2



Eutanol ® G 16


3










Eutanol ® G 16S













Cetiol ® J 600


4


2







Ceraphyl ® 45



2



2

6



Mineral oil




4








Cetiol ® B


2
4





3



Eutanol ® G


3




8





Cetiol ® PGL

11



4


9




Almond oil




1

5






Photonyl ® LS

2

1




4










Panthenol
1.0


Bisabolol
0.2


Tocopherol/Tocopherylacetate
1.0


















Magnesium sulfate × 7 water
1












Neo Heliopan ® Hydro (Na salt)

2

3



2





Neo Heliopan AP (Na salt)
2
1


2


1
2

1


Neo Heliopan ® 303




4




6



Neo Heliopan ® BB

4
2



2






Neo Heliopan ® MBC







4

3



Neo Heliopan ® OS













Neo Heliopan ® E 1000








5




Neo Heliopan ® AV

3
6
6

7.5
7.5

5

7.5


Uvinul ® T 150




2.5


1

2



Parsol ® 1789

2





1

2



Zinc oxide NDM





6







Eusolex ® T 2000
15

10

5

4



4


Ethanol









8



Butylene glycol


2
6


2
5


2


Glycerin
5
3
3

5
3
2

10
4









Water, preservative
to 100, q.s.
















TABLE 5







W/O sun protection emulsions


















Component
34
35
36
37
38
39
40
41
42
43
44





L = Lotion; C = Cream
L
C
L
L
C
L
L
L
L
C
C


Dehymuls ® PGPH
3
1
5
1
1
3
2
4
0.5
1
4


Monomuls ® 90-O18

1











Lameform ® TGI




4


1

3
1


Abil ® EM 90



1





2



Glucate ® DO



3




2




Isolan ® PDI

3




4






Arlacel ® 83





3







Elfacos ® ST9










2


Elfacos ® ST37
2












Arlacel ® P 135





3







Dehymuls ® HRE 7








4




Zinc stearate

2
2
1
1


1
1




Microcrystalline wax




4

1


4



Beeswax

4

2


1

2

1


Tego ® Care CG













Isostearic acid
1
1




1
1

1
1


Emery ® 1780

7
3










Wool wax alcohol, anhydrous,













USP













Antaron V 220

0.5
2
1
1
1







Poly-α-olefin (Example 4)
2
4
3
3
2
2
1
3
3
1
4


Myritol ® PC













Myritol ® 331
4
2
3

5


8
5
4



Finsolv ® TN

5
5


7







Cetiol ® CC
3
1




3
16


12


Cetiol ® OE

3

2


3






Dow Corning DC ® 244

4

2









Dow Corning DC ® 2502



1









Prisorine ® 3578

1











Silikonöl Wacker AK ® 350



1









Cetiol ® 868













Eutanol ® G 16










3


Eutanol ® G 16S










7


Cetiol ® J 600



3









Ceraphyl ® 45



1




5
4



Mineral oil






9






Cetiol ® B




3
3

2
2




Eutanol ® G



2




5




Cetiol ® PGL







2





Almond oil


2










Photonyl ® LS






3



2








Panthenol
1.0


Bisabolol
0.2


Tocopherol/Tocopherylacetate
1.0


Magnesium sulfate × 7 water
1


















Neo Heliopan ® Hydro (Na salt)

4





4





Neo Heliopan AP (Na salt)
2


1
2

1






Neo Heliopan ® 303
6
2






6




Neo Heliopan ® BB

2

2

2







Neo Heliopan ® MBC
2



3

4

2




Neo Heliopan ® OS




10

8






Neo Heliopan ® E 1000


5
6





5



Neo Heliopan ® AV

5
5


7.5



5



Uvinul ® T 150
1


2
2



3
2



Parsol ® 1789

1
1



1

0.5




Z-Cote ® HP 1
4
10





5


5


Titanium dioxide T 805



2

3

7

4
7


Ethanol



8

10







Butylene glycol
5
1

3
3



8
2



Glycerin


6
2


5
5

3
5








Water, preservative
to 100, q.s.
















TABLE 6







W/O care emulsions


















Component
45
46
47
48
49
50
51
52
53
54
55





L = Lotion, C = Cream
C
L
C
L
C
L
L
L
C
C
C


Dehymuls ® PGPH
1
3
1
2
3
1
1
2
1
1
1


Monomuls ® 90-O18
2







2

2


Lameform ® TGI
4
1


3


1
4
3
3


Abil ® EM 90






4






Isolan ® PDI





4







Glucate ® DO



5









Arlacel ® 83


5










Dehymuls ® FCE













Dehymuls ® HRE 7







4

1



Zinc stearate
2
1

1
1


1
1
1



Microcrystalline wax


5


2




5


Beeswax
4


1



1
4
7



Tego Care ® CG




1





0.5


Prisorine ® 3505


1
1

1
1



1


Dry Flo ® Plus













SFE 839






3






Emery ® 1780
1









1


Lanolin; anhydrous USP


5






4



Poly-α-olefin (Example 4)
3
4
2
12
10
2
2
6
3
12
1


Cegesoft ® C 17


3






1



Myritol ® PC





2

4





Myritol ® 331
6



2
6
2



8


Finsolv ® TN



5

2
5






Cetiol ® A

6



4







Cetiol ® CC

8


2
2
2



5


Cetiol ® SN

5





3





Cetiol ® OE
3



4

2

4
2



Dow Corning DC ® 244




1

2






Dow Corning DC ® 2502


1

2








Prisorine ® 3758




3








Silikonöl Wacker AK ® 350



4



3





Cetiol ® 868









2
7


Cetiol ® J 600


4


2







Ceraphyl ® 45



2



2

6



Mineral oil




4








Cetiol ® B


2
4





3



Eutanol ® G 16

1







3



Eutanol ® G


3




8





Cetiol ® PGL





4


9




Almond oil




1

5






Insect Repellent ® 3535
2












N,N-Diethyl-m-toluamide



3



5





Photonyl ® LS
2
2

















Panthenol
1.0


Bisabolol
0.2


Tocopherol/Tocopheryl Acetate
1.0


Magnesium sulfate × 7 water
1


















Bentone ® 38




1








Propylene carbonate




0.5








Ethanol









8



Butylene Glycol


2
6


2
5


2


Glycerin
5
3
3

5
3
2

10
4









Water, preservative
to 100, q.s.
















TABLE 7







W/O care emulsions


















Component
56
57
58
59
60
61
62
63
64
65
66





L = Lotion, C = Cream
L
C
L
L
C
L
L
L
L
C
C


Dehymuls ® PGPH
3
1
5
1

3
3
4
1
1
1


Monomuls ® 90-O18

1

1









Lameform ® TGI




4


1

3



Abil ® EM 90



3





2



Isolan ® PDI

3








4


Glucate ® DO
1












Arlacel ® 83





3







Dehymuls ® FCE




4

1






Dehymuls ® HRE 7








7




Zinc stearate

2
2
1
1
1

1
1

1


Microcrystalline wax




4

1


4



Beeswax

4

2

2
1
1
2

5


Tego ® Care CG













Prisorine ® 3505
1
1




1
1

1
1


Dry Flo ® Plus
1












SFE ® 839

5



4







Emery ® 1780













Lanolin anhydrous USP

7
3










Poly-α-olefin (Example 4)
3
4
4
8
10
2
8
6
3
12
7


Cegesoft ® C 17

2











Myritol ® PC



8









Myritol ® 331
4

3

5
3


5
4



Finsolv ® TN


5


7







Cetiol ® A







6





Cetiol ® CC
3


6

3
3


8



Cetiol ® SN




5








Cetiol ® OE

3

2


3



8


Dow Corning ® DC 244

4

2

2







Dow Corning ® DC 2502



1









Prisorine ® 3758





1







Silikonöl Wacker AK ® 350



1

1

4





Cetiol ® 868










10


Cetiol ® J 600
4


3









Ceraphyl ® 45



1




5
4



Mineral oil






9






Cetiol ® B




3
3

2
2




Eutanol ® G 16
1












Eutanol ® G



2




5




Cetiol ® PGL


10




6


3


Almond oil


2

5

2






Photonyl ® LS



2






2








Panthenol
1.0


Bisabolol
0.2


Tocopherol/Tocopherylacetate
1.0


Magnesium sulfate × 7 water
1


















Bentone ® 38





1







Propylene carbonate





0.5







Ethanol



8

10







Butylene glycol
5
1

3
3



8
2
1


Glycerin


6
2


5
5

3
5








Water, preservative
to 100, q.s.
















TABLE 8







O/W care emulsions


















Component
67
68
69
70
71
72
73
74
75
76
77





L = Lotion, C = Cream
C
C
C
L
C
L
L
C
L
C
C


Eumulgin ® VL 75





4







Dehymuls ® PGPH

2











Generol ® R


1










Eumulgin ® B2


0.8










Tween ® 60



1









Cutina ® E 24


0.6
2









Hostaphat ® KL 340 N








2




Lanette ® E







1





Amphisol ® K

0.5



1



1
0.5


Sodium stearate




0.5








Emulgade ® PL 68/50

2.5







4



Tego ® Care CG










2


Tego ® Care 450







5





Cutina ® MD

1

6
5

4


6



Lanette ® 14



1



2


4


Lanette ® O
4.5

4

1
2




2


Novata ® AB

1








1


Emery ® 1780




0.5
0.5







Lanolin, anhydrous, USP






5






Cetiol ® SB 45


1.5



2






Poly-α-olefin (Example 4)
3
4
2
1
10
2
2
6
3
12
1


Cegesoft ® C 17













Myritol ® PC




5








Myritol ® 331
2
5
5


6

12





Finsolv ® TN


2


2


8




Cetiol ® CC
4
6



4
4



5


Cetiol ® OE








4
3



Dow Corning DC ® 245


2

5
1







Dow Corning DC ® 2502




2
1







Prisorine ® 3758





1







Silikonöl Wacker AK ® 350
0.5
0.5
0.5


1
4






Cetiol ® 868




2

4






Cetiol ® J 600
2

3

3
2



5



Ceraphyl ® 45






3






Mineral oil



9









Cetiol ® SN


5










Cetiol ® B









2



Eutanol ® G

2

3









Cetiol ® PGL








5
5



Dry Flo ® Plus
5





1






SFE 839
5









2


Almond oil






1






Insect Repellent ® 3535

2
4


2



3



N,N-Diethyl-m-toluamide

2







3



Photonyl ® LS
2
2



2













Panthenol
1


Bisabolol
0.2


Tocopherol/
1


Tocopherylacetate



















Veegum ® ultra








1




Keltrol ® T


0.4





0.5




Pemulen ® TR 2
0.3






0.3





Carbopol ® Ultrez 10

0.3
0.3
0.2
0.2
0.2


0.1
0.3
0.2


Ethanol









10



Butylene glycol



4
3

2
5
2




Glycerin
2
5
5

3
3
2

4

3








Water, preservative, NaOH
to 100, q.s.,



pH 6.5-7.5
















TABLE 9







O/W care emulsions


















Component
78
79
80
81
82
83
84
85
86
87
88





L = Lotion, C = Cream
C
C
L
C
L
C
L
L
L
L
C


Eumulgin ® VL 75
4
3




1



2


Generol ® R





2







Eumulgin ® B2





2



1



Tween ® 60









1



Cutina ® E 24



2









Hostaphat ® KL 340 N













Lanette ® E
0.5









1


Amphisol ® K
0.5
1





1
1




Sodium stearate




1








Emulgade ® PL 68/50

6





5


4


Tego ® Care CG













Tego ® Care 450








4




Cutina ® MD
3

3
8
6
8



4



Lanette ® 14

2





2

1



Lanette ® O
2


2

3
1

1
1
6


Novata ® AB













Emery ® 1780













Lanolin, anhydrous, USP





4







Cetiol ® SB 45






2






Poly-α-olefin (Example 4)
3
4
2
1
10
2
2
6
3
12
1


Cegesoft ® C 17
4












Myritol ® PC
6




5


5




Myritol ® 331
5

5



7


10
3


Finsolv ® TN

5


5


3
3

1


Cetiol ® CC










2


Cetiol ® OE




2

2

5




Dow Corning DC ® 245

2


1




8
2


Dow Corning DC ® 2502

1


1





3


Prisorine ® 3758
3









2


Silikonöl Wacker AK ® 350




1





1


Cetiol ® 868

2











Cetiol ® J 600

2











Ceraphyl ® 45






3






Cetiol ® SN













Cetiol ® B


5


5

4


3


Eutanol ® G

3
5

5








Cetiol ® PGL







5
2




Dry Flo ® Plus

1








1


SFE 839
1
1











Almond oil





2







Photonyl ® LS





2













Panthenol
1


Bisabolol
0.2


Tocopherol/
1


Tocopherylacetate



















Veegum ® Ultra








1




Keltrol ® T








0.5




Carbopol ® ETD 2001

0.3

0.3

0.5
0.2
0.2





Pemulen ® TR 2


0.3


0.3




0.5


Ethanol

5

8






10


Butylene glycol
5

2
3
3




8



Glycerin
2
4
3
3

7
5
3
5










Water, preservative, NaOH
to 100, q.s.



(pH 6.5-7.5)
















TABLE 10







Spray formulations


















Component
89
90
91
92
93
94
95
96
97
98
99





S = Body spray, S* = Sun
S
S
S
S
S
S*
S*
S*
S*
S*
S*


protection spray













Emulgade ® SE-PF
8.9

7.5
7.5
4.3
9.8
8.2
9.9





Eumulgin ® B2
3.1

3




4.2





Eumulgin ® B3





4.2
3.3






Eumulgin ® HRE 40




4.7








Cutina ® E 24

5.9

4









Amphisol ® K








1
1
1


Eumulgin ® VL 75










2


Emulgade ® PL 68/50

0.5






2.5
1



Cutina ® MD

3.1











Antaron V 220





1
1
1

1
1


Poly-α-olefin (Example 4)
11
5
7
7
7
5
4
5
5
4
6


Myritol ® PC













Myritol ® 331


3
4
3
3
3
3





Finsolv ® TN

4





8





Cetiol ® CC
6


5
5
2
2
4





Cetiol ® OE

5
5


2







Dow Corning DC ® 244

4
4
5









Cetiol ® 868
3












Cetiol ® J 600



2
2








Mineral oil


2










Cetiol ® B






2






Eutanol ® G
2



1








Photonyl ® LS
2





2


2
2








Panthenol
1


Bisabolol
0.2


Tocopherol/
1


Tocopherylacetate



















Neo Heliopan ® Hydro (Na





2



3



salt)













Neo Heliopan AP (Na salt)





2
2
2


1


Eusolex ® OCR






2



3


Neo Heliopan ® BB









1



Neo Heliopan ® MBC





2
2
2

1
1


Neo Heliopan ® OS





5







Neo Heliopan ® AV





6
6
2

7.5
2


Uvinul ® T 150





1
1
1

1



Parsol ® 1789





1

1

1



Z-Cote ® HP 1









2
2


Eusolex ® T 2000









2
2


Veegum ® Ultra










1.5


Laponite ® XLG









1.5



Keltrol ® T










0.5


Pemulen ® TR 2








0.2




Insect Repellent ® 3535
1












N,N-Diethyl-m-toluamide
1












Ethanol













Butylene glycol






1


2
1


Glycerin





3
2
3
2

3








Water/preservative/
to 100/q.s./q.s


NaOH


















APPENDIX









 1) Abil ® EM 90



INCI: Cetyl Dimethicone Copolyol



Manufacturer: Tego Cosmetics



(Goldschmidt)



 2) Amphisol ® K



INCI: Potassium Cetyl Phosphate



Manufacturer: Hoffmann La Roche



 3) Antaron ® V 220



INCI: PVP/Eicosene Copolymer



Manufacturer: GAF General Aniline



Firm Corp. (IPS-Global)



 4) Antaron ® V 216



INCI: PVP/Hexadecene Copolymer



Manufacturer: GAF General Aniline



Firm Corp. (IPS-Global)



 5) Arlacel ® 83



INCI: Sorbitan Sesquioleate



Manufacturer: Uniqema (ICI



Surfacants)



 6) Arlacel ® P 135



INCI: PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate



Manufacturer: Uniqema (ICI



Surfacants)



 7) Bentone ® 38



INCI: Quaternium-18 Hectorite



Manufacturer: Rheox (Elementis



Specialties)



 8) Carbopol ® 980



INCI: Carbomer



Manufacturer: Goodrich



 9) Carbopol ® 2984



INCI: Carbomer



Manufacturer: Goodrich



10) Carbopol ® ETD 2001



INCI: Carbomer



Manufacturer: BF Goodrich



11) Carbopol ® Ultrez 10



INCI: Carbomer



Manufacturer: Goodrich



12) Cegesoft ® C 17



INCI: Myristyl Lactate



Manufacturer: Cognis Deutschland GmbH,



Grunau



13) Ceraphyl ® 45



INCI: Diethylhexyl Malate



Manufacturer: International Specialty Products



14) Cetiol ® 868



INCI: Ethylhexyl Stearate



Manufacturer: Cognis Deutschland GmbH



15) Cetiol ® A



INCI: Hexyl Laurate



Manufacturer: Cognis Deutschland GmbH



16) Cetiol ® B



INCI: Butyl Adipate



Manufacturer: Cognis Deutschland GmbH



(Henkel)



17) Cetiol ® J 600



INCI: Oleyl Erucate



Manufacturer: Cognis Deutschland GmbH



18) Cetiol ® OE



INCI: Dicaprylyl Ether



Manufacturer: Cognis Deutschland GmbH



19) Cetiol ® PGL



INCI: Hexyldecanol, Hexyldecyl Laurate



Manufacturer: Cognis Deutschland GmbH



20) Cetiol ® CC



INCI: Dicaprylyl Carbonate



Manufacturer: Cognis Deutschland



GmbH



21) Cetiol ® SB 45



INCI: Shea Butter Butyrospermum



Parkii (Linne)



Manufacturer: Cognis Deutschland



GmbH



22) Cetiol ® SN



INCI: Cetearyl Isononanoate



Manufacturer: Cognis Deutschland



GmbH (Henkel)



23) Cutina ® E 24



INCI: PEG-20 Glyceryl Stearate



Manufacturer: Cognis Deutschland



GmbH



24) Cutina ® MD



INCI: Glyceryl Stearate



Manufacturer: Cognis Deutschland



GmbH



25) Dehymuls ® FCE



INCI: Dicocoyl Pentaerythrityl



Distearyl Citrate



Manufacturer: Cognis Deutschland



GmbH



26) Dehymuls ® HRE 7



INCI: PEG-7 Hydrogenated Castor



Oil



Manufacturer: Cognis Deutschland



GmbH



27) Dehymuls ® PGPH



INCI: Polyglyceryl-2



Dipolyhydroxystearate



Manufacturer: Cognis Deutschland



GmbH



28) Dow Corning ® 244 Fluid



INCI: Cyclomethicone



Manufacturer: Dow Corning



29) Dow Corning ® 245 Fluid



INCI: Cyclopentasiloxane



Cyclomethicone



Manufacturer: Dow Corning



30) Dow Corning ® 2502



INCI: Cetyl Dimethicone



Manufacturer: Dow Corning



31) Dry ® Flo Plus



INCI: Aluminium Starch Octenylsuccinate



Manufacturer: National Starch



32) Elfacos ® ST 37



INCI: PEG-22 Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer



Manufacturer: Akzo-Nobel



33) Elfacos ® ST 9



INCI: PEG-45 Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer



Manufacturer: Akzo-Nobel



34) Emery ® 1780



INCI: Lanolin Alcohol



Manufacturer: Cognis Corporation (Emery)



35) Emulgade ® PL 68/50



INCI: Cetearyl Glucoside, Ceteayl Alcohol



Manufacturer: Cognis Deutschland GmbH



36) Emulgade ® SE-PF



INCI: Glyceryl Stearate, Ceteareth-20,



Ceteareth-12, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetyl



Palmitate



Manufacturer: Cognis Deutschland GmbH



37) Eumulgin ® B 2



INCI: Ceteareth-20



Manufacturer: Cognis Deutschland GmbH



38) Eumulgin ® VL 75



INCI: Lauryl Glucoside (and) Polyglyceryl-2



Dipolyhydroxystearate (and) Glycerin



Manufacturer: Cognis Deutschland



GmbH



39) Eusolex ® OCR



INCI: Octocrylene



Manufacturer: Merck



40) Eusolex ® T 2000



INCI: Titanium Dioxide, Alumina,



Simethicone



Manufacturer: Rona (Merck)



41) Eutanol ® G



INCI: Octyldodecanol



Manufacturer: Cognis Deutschland



GmbH



42) Eutanol ® G 16



INCI: Hexyldecanol



Manufacturer: Cognis Deutschland



GmbH



43) Eutanol ® G 16 S



INCI: Hexyldecyl Stearate



Manufacturer: Cognis Deutschland



GmbH



44) Finsolv ® TN



INCI: C 12/15 Alkyl Benzoate



Manufacturer: Findex



(Nordmann/Rassmann)



45) Generol ® R



INCI: Brassica Campestris



(Rapseed) Sterols



Manufacturer: Cognis Deutschland



GmbH



46) Glucate ® DO



INCI: Methyl Glucose Dioleate



Manufacturer: NRC



Nordmann/Rassmann



47) Hostaphat ® KL 340 N



INCI: Trilaureth-4 Phosphate



Manufacturer: Clariant



48) Isolan ® PDI



INCI: Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3



Diisostearate



Manufacturer: Goldschmidt AG



49) Keltrol ® T



INCI: Xanthan Gum



Manufacturer: CP Kelco



50) Lameform ® TGI



INCI: Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate



Manufacturer: Cognis Deutschland GmbH



50) Lanette ® 14



INCI: Myristyl Alcohol



Manufacturer: Cognis Deutschland GmbH



51) Lanette ® E



INCI: Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate



Manufacturer: Cognis Deutschland GmbH



52) Lanette ® O



INCI: Cetearyl Alcohol



Manufacturer: Cognis Deutschland GmbH



53) Monomuls ® 90-0-18



INCI: Glyceryl Oleate



Manufacturer: Cognis Deutschland GmbH



54) Myrj ® 51



INCI: PEG-30-Sterate



Manufacturer: Uniqema



55) Myritol ® 331



INCI: Cocoglycerides



Manufacturer: Cognis Deutschland GmbH



56) Myritol ® PC



INCI: Propylene Glycol



Dicaprylate/Dicaprate



Manufacturer: Cognis Deutschland GmbH



57) Neo Heliopan ® 303



INCI: Octocrylene



Manufacturer: Haarmann & Reimer



58) Neo Heliopan ® AP



INCI: Disodium Phenyl



Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate



Manufacturer: Haarmann & Reimer



59) Neo Heliopan ® AV



INCI: Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate



Manufacturer: Haarmann & Reimer



60) Neo Heliopan ® BB



INCI: Benzophenone-3



Manufacturer: Haarmann & Reimer



61) Neo Heliopan ® E 1000



INCI: Isoamyl-p-Methoxycinnamate



Manufacturer: Haarmann & Reimer



62) Neo Heliopan ® Hydro (Na-Salz)



INCI: Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic



Acid



Manufacturer: Haarmann & Reimer



63) Neo Heliopan ® MBC



INCI: 4-Methylbenzylidene Camphor



Manufacturer: Haarmann & Reimer



64) Neo Heliopan ® OS



INCI: Ethylhexyl Salicylate



Manufacturer: Haarmann & Reimer



65) Novata ® AB



INCI: Cocoglycerides



Manufacturer: Cognis Deutschland



GmbH



66) Parsol ® 1789



INCI: Butyl



Methoxydibenzoylmethane



Manufacturer: Hoffmann-La Roche



(Givaudan)



67) Pemulen ® TR-2



INCI: Acrylates/C10–30 Alkylacrylate



Crosspolymer



Manufacturer: Goodrich



68) Photonyl ® LS



INCI: Arginine, Disodium Adenosine



Triphosphate, Mannitol, Pyridoxine HCL,



Phenylalanine, Tyrosine



Manufacturer: Laboratoires Serobiologiques



(Cognis)



69) Prisorine ® ISAC 3505



INCI: Isostearic Acid



Manufacturer: Uniqema



70) Prisorine ® 3758



INCI: Hydrogenated Polyisobutene



Manufacturer: Uniqema



71) Ravecarb ® 106



Polycarbonatdiol



Manufacturer: Enichem



73) SFE ® 839



INCI: Cyclopentasiloxane and



Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone



Crosspolymer



Manufacturer: GE Silicones



74) Silikonol Wacker AK ® 350



INCI: Dimethicone



Manufacturer: Wacker



75) Squatol ® S



INCI: Hydrogenated Polyisobutene



Manufacturer: LCW (7–9 rue de I'Industrie



95310 St-Ouen I'Aumone France)



76) Tego ® Care 450



INCI: Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose



Distearate



Manufacturer: Tego Cosmetics



(Goldschmidt)



77) Tego ® Care CG 90



INCI: Cetearyl Glucoside



Manufacturer: Goldschmidt



78) Tween ® 60



INCI: Polysorbate 60



Manufacturer: Uniqema (ICI



Surfactants)



79) Uvinul ® T 150



INCI: Octyl Triazone



Manufacturer: BASF



80) Veegum ® Ultra



INCI: Magnesium Aluminium Silicate



Manufacturer: Vanderbilt



81) Z-Cote ® HP 1



INCI: Zinc Oxide, Dimethicone



Manufacturer: BASF

## Claims

1. A cosmetic composition which is an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion comprising poly-α-olefin oils produced by dehydrating polymerization of isononanol at a temperature in the range of from 60° C. to 340° C. in an inert gas atmosphere with removal of water formed until no more water is eliminated, in the presence of acidic alumino layer silicates,
wherein said cosmetic composition emulsion is stable with respect to separation for four weeks at room temperature, 5° C., 40° C., 45° C. and 50° C.

2. The cosmetic composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein said poly-α-olefin oils are hydrogenated after the dehydrating polymerization.

3. The cosmetic composition as claimed in claim 1, further comprising 0.1% to 20% by weight of a surface-active substance or a mixture of surface-active substances.

4. The cosmetic composition of claim 1 containing from 5% to 40% by weight of oil components.

5. The cosmetic composition of claim 1 wherein said poly-α-olefin oils have a high spreading value of >1000 mm2/10 min.

6. The cosmetic composition of claim 1 which comprises 3 to 20% by weight of the poly-α-olefin oils, based on the total quantity of oil components in the composition.

7. A cosmetic composition which is an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion comprising poly-α-olefin oils, produced by dehydrating polymerization of isononanol at a temperature in the range of from 60° C. to 340° C. in an inert gas atmosphere with removal of water formed until no more water is eliminated, in the presence of acidic alumino layer silicates, wherein said cosmetic composition comprises 3 to 20% by weight of the poly-α-olefin oils, based on the total quantity of oil components in the composition, and the emulsion is stable with respect to separation for four weeks at room temperature, 5° C., 40° C., 45° C. and 50° C.