How to Modify a European Starling Trap

USDA Wildlife Services 

Cliff Caldwell

4469 Professional Parkway 

Groveport, OH 43125

(866) 4USDA-WS (866-487-3297)

April 2020

Wildlife Services Protecting People ◊ Protecting Agriculture ◊ Protecting Wildlife
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Contents

Section1: Modified Top for an Existing Troyer V-Top-Style Trap P. 3 

Section 2: Constructing Base for an Entire Trap P. 26

Section 3: Other Construction Options P. 35

Tips & Suggestions P. 37

Appendix 1: Template for Funnel P. 39

These modifications have substantially increased the efficiency of the 

standard V-top trap, resulting in much higher catch rates of European 

starlings. The modifications enable WS to manage starling damage more 

effectively, reduce costs to cooperators, and further its mission of 

protecting human health and safety and damage to agriculture.

To reduce stress on the birds, the traps are furnished with water, food, and 

perches. State regulations, including trap-check time, should be followed. It 

may be appropriate to check the traps more often than once a day, 

reducing stress and increasing capture rates. Euthanize captured starlings 

following guidelines of the American Veterinary Medical Association.

Section 1-Top

Materials

1 – 5/8” (or 3⁄4)”x4’x8’ Plywood or Oriented Strand Board 

1 – 4” SCH 40 PVC pipe 3 1⁄2” in length

1 – Roll 1⁄2” x 1⁄2” hardware cloth (36” wide 25’ long)

1 – box 9/16” Truss Washer Lath Screws (100 count) (Figure 1-1)

Tools

• Screw Gun (with appropriate bits)

• Jig saw

• Circular saw

• Reciprocating saw or hand saw

• Wire cutters

• Needle nose pliers
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Instructions

1. Begin with a 5/8”x4’x8’ sheet of plywood (Oriented Strand Board). Cut the length 

to 6’ (Figure 1-1).

Figure 1-1

2. Cut the 4” diameter PVC pipe to 3 1⁄2” in length (Figure 1-2).

Figure 1-2
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3. Cut a 4” diameter hole 8” from right side and centered on the OSB sheet. 

Utilizing the piece of 4” PVC, trace around the pipe and cut inside the line so 

that the pipe fits snug (Figure 1-3). Secure it in place with screws so that it is 

flush with the surface of the board (Figure 1-4).

Figure 1-3

Figure 1-4
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4. Using 1⁄2”x1⁄2” hardware cloth, construct a rectangular cage 4’ long, 2’ wide, and 

16” in height (Figure 1-5). Hardware cloth is easily folded by hand or over any 

straight edge (Figure 1-6 and 1-7).

Figure 1-5

Figure 1-6 Figure 1-7
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When constructing the cage leave an additional 1” of wire around the bottom. Bend the 

1” of wire outward 90 degrees by hand (Figure 1-7) to create a lip that will be used to 

secure the cage down to the plywood (Figure 1-8). When cutting leave the tag ends of 

wire as these will be used to secure each side, preventing the need for wire cage clips 

(Figure 1-9 and 1-10).

Figure 1-8 

Figure 1-9 Figure 1-10
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5. Once complete, attach the cage, centered on the plywood using 1⁄2” screws. 

Place screws at corners only (Figure 1-11). Sides will be attached with screws 

after funnels are attached.

Figure 1-11
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6. Construct six (6) funnels using the 1⁄2” by 1⁄2” hardware cloth. Each funnel to be 

cut to 6” in length. One end will be 2 3⁄4” x 2 3⁄4” and the other end will be, 4” x 4” 

(Figure 1-12).

Figure 1-12

a. Start with a section of hardware cloth 12” long and 6” wide (Figure 1-13).

Figure 1-13
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An easy method for doing this is to utilize the template provided in Appendix 1. 

Center the wire on the template and using a straight edge, bend the two sides up 

90 degrees (Figure 1-14, 1-15, and 1-16).

Figure 1-14 Figure 1-15

Figure 1-16
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b. Repeat the process for the sides bending them outward 90 degrees 

(Figure 1-17, 1-18, and 1-19).

Figure 1-17 Figure 1-18

Figure 1-19
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7. Funnels will be attached at 16” and 38” on one side then 9” and 32” on the 

other (Figure 1-20).

Figure 1-20

8. Cut holes 4” X 4” while leaving tag ends (Figure 1-21). These will be used to 

attach funnel (Figure 1-22).

Figure 1-21 Figure 1-22
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9. Bottom edges of funnels will protude (Figure 1-23). Trim them off, use tag ends 

as needed to attach funnel then remove unneeded tag ends (Figure 1-24).

Figure 1-23 Figure 1-24

10. Once attached and trimmed neatly, secure funnel in place with screws (Figure 

1-25). Do not secure funnel inside cage. This allows for funnel to be reshaped by hand when damaged by ice or mammals.

Figure 1-25
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11. Now construct the smaller cage (red circle) 10”x12”x16” using the 1⁄2” by 1⁄2” 

hardware cloth (Figure 1-26).

Figure 1-26.

a. Cut a piece of hardware cloth 36” X 23” (Figure 1-27).

Figure 1-27
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b. Then cut as shown below (Figure 1-28).

Figure 1-28

c. Fold wire then un-fold to create 90 degree corners (Figure 1-29).

Figure 1-29
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d. Connect the corners using tag ends (Figure 1-30).

Figure 1-30
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12. Attach smaller cage that was just made to larger cage made in the first steps 

using tag ends (Figure 1-31). Curved/bent needle nose pliers are easier to use 

when bending tag ends.

Figure 1-31
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13. Secure the bottom of the complete cage with 1⁄2” screws to the plywood (Figure 

1-32).

Figure 1-32
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14. Build a 8” x 12” access door and install it on the large cage, and a 6” x 8” 

access door for the smaller cage. This access will allow for maintenance, 

removal of non-target species, and allow the trap to be un-set when not in use. 

These doors need to be installed on both large and small sections.

These doors can be contructed in several ways. Below is one method for 

contructing an access door.

Access Door

1. Utilizing 1” X 1⁄2” 16 gauge wire, cut 2 pieces at 2” X 8” and 2 pieces at 2” X 14” 

with tag ends left on both ends of the 14” pieces (Figure 1-33).

Figure 1-33
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2. Bend them in half along a straight edge (Figure 1-34), then utilizing the tag 

ends, join them at the corners to create an 8” X 12” frame (Figure 1-35) and 

trim any unused tag ends (Figure 1-36).

Figure 1-34 Figure 1-35

Figure 1-36
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3. Cut another piece of the 1” X 1⁄2” wire 10” X 14”. Bend over 1” on all four sides 

to create an 8” X 12” door. On the bottom leave 2 tag ends to use in attaching 

to frame (Figure 1-37).

Figure 1-37
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4. Attach frame to side of trap, centered, 2” down from top. Cut 1⁄2” X 1⁄2” wire to 

create tag ends and use them to attach frame (Figure 1-38 insert). Use tag 

ends from door to attach it to the frame and act as hinges. Some adjustments 

may be needed to get the door to fit properly in the frame (Figure 1-38).

Figure 1-38
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5. Cut a 22” long pieces of 9 gauge annealed wire (Figure 1-39). Bend 45 

degrees at 13” then bend a small hook in the short end (Figure 1-40).

Figure 1-39

Figure 1-40
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6. Slide the long end through the top of the door and frame to hold the door 

closed. Twist the small hook to the side then while applying light pressure to 

the wire insert it through the holes in the trap (Figure 1-41). This will secure the 

door in place (Figure 1-42).

Figure 1-41

Figure 1-42
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7. Complete the other door in the same manner that is 7” X 9” and attach to the 

small cage end covering the exit funnel and PVC (not shown). It can be 

installed on any of the sides or top.
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Section 2- Bottom Cage

The top section was designed to be placed on a standard Troyer V-Top trap. If a 

bottom cage is needed to mount the top trap (Section 1), it can be constructed in many 

ways with materials you have readily available or easily acquired. Section 2 shows 

instructions for constructing the base from wood (Figure 2-1).

Figure 2-1 
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Materials

6 – 2” x 4”x 8’

4 – 2” x 4”x 10’

2 – 2” x 4”x 12’

1 – 1” x 6” x 6’

1 – Door latch (Eye & hook or slide bar type) 

3 – 4” x 4” hinges (With screws)

12 – 5” x 3/8” bolts with nuts and double washers 

16 – Truss tie plate

1 – Roll: 1⁄2” x 1⁄2” x 50’ hardware cloth 

1 – 3lb box 4” deck screws

1 – 1lb box 1 1⁄4” decking screws

1 – box 9/16” Truss Washer Lath Screws (100 count) 

1 – 1lb box 2” decking screws

Tools

• Screw Gun / Drill (with appropriate bits)

• Circular saw

• Framing square

• 1 1⁄2” Spade bit or hole saw

• 1⁄2” Drill Bit
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1. Construct two (2) end sections (Figure 2-2).

1. Cut one (1) 2x4x10 in half using these two (2) 5’ pieces for the sides. Using one

(1) 2x4x8, cut two (2) 37” pieces and keep the left over piece of this 2x4x8 

(approximately 22”) for use as a corner brace. Place the 37” pieces inside top 

and bottom of the 60” 2x4’s which will create the overall width of 44” (Figure 2-3).

Figure 2-2 Figure 2-3 
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2. Connect using a mending plate with 1 1⁄4” drywall screws and corner brace with 3” 

drywall screws (Figure 2-4).

Figure 2-4

3. Measuring down from the top, drill 3 - 1⁄2” holes on each side at 7”, 30”, and 51” 

(Figure 2-5). These holes will be used for access to nuts when bolting sides 

together.

Figure 2-5
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2. Build two (2) sides.

1. Although they are different dimensions (Figure 2-6), the sides are constructed in 

the exact same manner as the end sections. Drill holes on sides in the same 

locations, centered, with 1 1⁄2” spade or hole saw bit with 1⁄2” hole from side 

extending through (Figure 2-7).

Figure 2-6

Figure 2-7
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3. Access Door Construction

1. Cut (2) 2x4’s to 53” and attach them 30” apart, centered on one side (Figure 2-8). 

Construct the door from 2X4”s, 29” wide by 52” tall (Figure 2-9).

Figure 2-8 Figure 2-9
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2. Place the door inside the frame and attach using 3 hinges at 8”, 30”, and 47” as 

measured from the top (Figure 2-10). Add corner braces to the door for aditional 

support (Figure 2-11).

Figure 2-10

Figure 2-11
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3. Once all four (4) sides are completed, remove hinges then cover them with 1⁄2” x

1⁄2” hardare cloth using 9/16” truss washer lath screws. After hardware cloth has 

been attached, replace hinges using previously made holes to insure proper 

alignment and add door latch (Figure 2-12).

Figure 2-12
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4. Mount trap onto cage with 2” decking screws and trap is complete (Figure 2-13).

Figure 2-13
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Section 3 - Construction Options

Traps attached to trailers allow for quick adjustments to trap locations and storage when 

not in use. In the example illustrated below, the finished trap was fastened to a small 

trailer.

Figure 3-1 Figure 3-2 

Lower cages can also be constructed from scratch or by utilizing items readily available 

to reduce cost and labor. Below, a caged pallet (used for storage/transport of liquids) 

was easily modified into a trap. As long as birds have ample room to fly around inside 

and are visible to attract passing birds it will work. Key to capturing the birds is the top 

trap section itself.

Figure 3-3 Figure 3-4 
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In this example, the trap top was scaled down in length and only three (3) entrance 

funnels were installed (but still caught birds efficently). This can be transported in the

bed of a truck or attached to trailer. In this example, the small trap end with PVC pipe 

was replaced with a modified version using sheet metal to experiment with more efficent 

ways for birds to move into lower section.

Figure 3-5 Figure 3-6
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Tips/Suggestions

Cheap cat food is one effective bait (Figure 3-7). Utilizing types that are consistently 

small which can be easily eaten increases effectiveness. Experiment with various bait 

that may be more effective for your area.

Figure 3-7 

Bait trap lightly at first and then increase as needed when catch rate increases (Figure 

3-8). Excess bait can turn rancid as well as attract unwanted nuisance mammals.

Figure 3-8 

Either bare (unpainted) plywood or Oriented Strand Board (OSB) will work. OSB may 

swell but is lighter and holds up better to weather, usually lasting up to 24 months.

Plywood bases may delaminate, lasting 12-18 months before warping, which may allow 

birds to escape.
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Caution should be used when painting trap tops. Changes in color or finish type can 

have a major impact on traps’ effectiveness. In this example (Figure 3-9), at 20 yards 

apart, the trap with wood painted brown (left) caught 5 birds a day while the unpainted 

trap (right) caught 275 a day in the spring. Dark paint allows the sun to heat the trap up, 

resulting in no catches in the summer. Waterproof sealant and/or artificial turf has been 

tried with varied results.

It is highly recommend leaving trap tops bare and unfinished.

Figure 3-9
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Appendix 1- Template for funnel
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