United States Department of Agriculture

Managing the Japanese Beetle:

A Homeowner’s Handbook

Animal and Plant Health Inspection Service
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APHIS 81-25-003

August 2015

Popillia japonica
Managing the Japanese Beetle:

A Homeowner’sHandbook

The Japanese beetle (Popillia japonica 

Newman) is a highly destructive plant pest of 

foreign origin. It was first found in the United 

States in a nursery in southern New Jersey in 

1916. In its native Japan, where the beetle’s

natural enemies keep its populations in check,

this insect is not a serious plant pest.

In the United States, however, the beetle entered

without its natural enemies and found a favorable 

climate and an abundant food supply. By 1972, 

beetle infestations had been reported in 22 States 

east of the Mississippi River and also in Arkansas, 

Iowa, and Missouri. Since then, the pest has 

spread to Southern and Western States, but tough 

regulations and careful monitoring have prevented 

its establishment there. Without its natural checks 

and balances, the Japanese beetle has become a 

serious plant pest and a threat to American 

agriculture.

This map shows the distribution of Japanese beetles in the 

United States as of January 2015.

1
The Japanese beetle adult—

an attractive pest

A typical cluster of Japanese

beetle eggs

Both as adults and as grubs (the larval stage), 

Japanese beetles are destructive plant pests. Adults 

feed on the foliage and fruits of several hundred 

species of fruit trees, ornamental trees, shrubs, 

vines, and field and vegetable crops. Adults leave 

behind skeletonized leaves and large, irregular holes 

in leaves. The grubs develop in the soil, feeding on 

the roots of various plants and grasses and often 

destroying turf in lawns, parks, golf courses, and 

pastures.

Today, the Japanese beetle is the most widespread

turf-grass pest in the United States. Efforts to control

the larval and adult stages are estimated to cost more 

than $460 million a year. Losses attributable to the 

larval stage alone have been estimated at $234 million 

per year—$78 million for control costs and an additional $156 million for replacement of damaged turf.

How to Recognize the Japanese

Beetle’s Life Stages

The adult Japanese beetle is a little less than half an

inch long and has a shiny, metallic-green body with 

bronze-colored outer wings. The beetle has six small 

tufts of white hair along the sides and back of its body 

under the edges of its wings. The males usually are 

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Japanese beetle larva Japanese beetle pupa

slightly smaller than the females. You are most likely to

see the adults from late spring through midsummer.

During the feeding period, females intermittently leave 

plants, burrow about 3 inches into the ground—usually 

into turf—and lay a few eggs. This cycle is repeated 

until the female lays 40 to 60 eggs.

By midsummer, the eggs hatch, and the young grubs 

begin to feed. Each grub is about an inch long when 

fully grown and lies in a curled position. In late autumn, 

the grubs burrow 4 to 8 inches into the soil and remain 

inactive all winter. This insect spends about 10 months

of the year in the ground in the larval stage.

In early spring, the grubs return to the turf and continue 

to feed on roots until late spring, when they change into 

pupae. In about 2 weeks, the pupae become adult 

beetles and emerge from the ground. This life cycle 

takes a year.

Homeowner Control

No quick fixes can rid homeowners of the Japanese 

beetle once it becomes established. However,

scientists with USDA’s Agricultural Research Service 

and Animal and Plant Health Inspection Service 

(APHIS) have developed an integrated pest 

management (IPM) program for homeowners based

3
4

on field experiences. The program combines 

biological, cultural, and chemical strategies. It will be 

effective if homeowners are willing to monitor both 

adult and larval beetle populations closely and 

implement this program with neighbors and their local 

agricultural or horticultural organizations.

The Japanese beetle life cycle (Illustration by APHIS employee Joel Floyd)

JAN FEB MAR APRIL MAY JUNE JULY AUG SEPT OCT NOV DEC
5

What is IPM?

The IPM concept comes from the realization that any 

disruption of a pest population will affect not only 

targeted pests but beneficial organisms in the 

ecosystem as well. Decisionmakers who choose 

IPM are attempting to manage pests, not to 

eradicate them, while at the same time exerting 

minimal impact on the environment.

IPM uses biological, cultural, mechanical, and 

chemical controls to keep pest populations below 

levels that cause economic damage. And, because 

tolerance to the presence of insect pests varies among 

individuals, the choice of methods will reflect the 

management objectives and control philosophy of the 

user. Components of an IPM program for any pest include 

survey, problem delineation and selection of 

control methods, application of controls, and 

evaluation of their success.

Why Follow an IPM Program?

Homeowners should consider the following reasons 

for implementing an IPM program:

Automatically and routinely applying pesticides can 

be counterproductive, economically wasteful, and 

environmentally unsound.

The Japanese beetle is here to stay. Therefore, we 

must learn to “live with” or manage this insect pest 

while attempting to minimize its impacts.

It is not necessary to eliminate the beetle in order 

to protect your trees, plants, and lawn.

It is hard to predict when and where Japanese 

beetle populations will increase, and there is no 

guaranteed control formula to follow. Consequently, 

intermittent monitoring and appropriate planning 

are necessary for adequate management.
Survey Methods

In order to plan and implement appropriate control 

strategies for the Japanese beetle, you must first 

survey your property for both grubs and adult beetles.

Traps for adult beetles operate primarily with two

chemical lures. A combination of a pheromone, or 

sex attractant, and a floral lure attract both male and 

female adult beetles to the trap. Then, as a result of

their clumsy flying and the design of the trap, they 

end up caught in either the bag or funnel portion of 

the trap.

Japanese beetle traps can be used to assess the 

beetle population in a given area. For instance, if 

you put a trap out while the adults are flying and find 

that beetles fill the trap in 1 day, you probably have a

Japanese beetle problem. If, during a week, the bottom 

of the trap is barely filled, you probably do not need to 

be concerned. Adult beetles can fly long distances, so 

those caught in your yard may have come from several 

hundred yards away. For this reason, it is difficult to

estimate the number of grubs in your turf from adult 

trap catches.

To survey for grubs, you need to calculate the number 

of Japanese beetle grubs per square foot in your lawn.

This estimate is important for deciding the severity 

of your white-grub problem and whether treatment is 

necessary.

Japanese beetle grubs can be sampled in late summer

(August to October) and late spring (April to June). 

Timing will vary by geographic location.

If your lawn has brown or dead areas during the 

normal growing season, survey near the edge of the 

damage. If you find that grubs are the cause of the 

damage, clearly this area should be treated. 

Otherwise, take several randomly selected samples 

throughout the lawn. The density of Japanese beetle 

grubs often varies widely within a small area. By 

taking several samples, you may be able to pinpoint 

the damage and therefore selectively treat specific 

areas rather than the whole lawn.

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Using a shovel, dig a square hole 8 by 8 by 3 inches 

deep in the turf. Turn the sod over on some newspaper 

and search the grass roots and the soil in the hole for 

grubs. Turn the turf back into the hole and add water to 

help the grass recover. Record the number of grubs 

found in the sample location so you can map out or 

average grub densities. To convert these numbers to 

the number of grubs per square foot, multiply them by

2.25. Generally, you should consider treating areas in 

your lawn with more than 10 grubs per square foot.

Control Methods

To control the Japanese beetle, several potential 

tactics are available. The choice of method will 

reflect the management objectives and control 

philosophy of the homeowner.

Chemical Controls

Homeowners who decide to use chemical 

methods in an IPM approach to Japanese 

beetle management should base their decision 

on several factors. Choosing what pesticide to 

apply and when to apply it comes down to a 

value judgment for the individual. First, you

must assess the risks and benefits of pesticide 

use. Correct timing and application are probably 

the most essential elements for success with 

pesticide applications. Because pesticides are 

toxic materials, users must read and follow label 

directions exactly. When used improperly, 

insecticides can pose serious hazards to people 

and wildlife. There is also increasing concern 

about the fate of insecticides in the environment 

and the potential of pesticide runoff to cause 

water contamination.

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Heterorhabditisbacteriophora

Each State has its own agricultural chemicals handbook, 

updated yearly for appropriate control recommendations.

The following chemicals are effective for use in the control 

of the Japanese beetle adult and its grubs:

Chemicals for Adults:

Bifenthrin

Carbaryl 

Cyfluthrin

Deltamethrin

Permethrin

Chemicals for Larvae:

Imidacloprid (Merit

®

insecticide for turf; 

Marathon®

 for nursery use)

Halofenzide

Trichlorfon

Chlorantraniliprole (for professional applicators)

These lists do not include all materials registered for 

Japanese beetle control. For further details regarding 

chemical controls, consult your local Cooperative 

Extension Service. Before using any of these 

chemicals, check the label for particular formulations 

registered for Japanese beetles, read the entire label, 

and carefully follow instructions regarding application 

methods and recommended rates.

Biological Controls

Homeowners who choose biological methods to 

control Japanese beetle populations can successfully 

use parasites, nematodes, fungi, or other biologically 

based approaches. Some of these agents are 

commercially available to homeowners; others are 

not. While they take a little longer to produce the 

same results as insecticides, biological control agents 

last longer in the environment. More importantly, they 

do not adversely affect nontarget or potentially 

beneficial organisms.

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glaseri

A dissected Japanese beetle larva showing later stages

of the Heterorhabditis bacteriophora nematode

Nematodes—Insect-eating nematodes—microscopic 

parasitic roundworms—actively seek out grubs in the 

soil. These nematodes have a mutualistic symbiotic 

relationship with a single species of bacteria. Upon 

penetrating a grub, the nematode inoculates it with the 

bacteria. The bacteria reproduce quickly, feeding on 

the grub tissue. The nematode then feeds on this 

bacteria and progresses through its own life cycle, 

reproducing and ultimately killing the grub.

The two nematodes that are most effective against

Japanese beetle grubs are Steinernema glaseri and

Heterorhabditis bacteriophora. The latter is 

commercially available.

When using nematodes, remember they are alive 

and have a fairly high oxygen requirement. They are 

typically sold on a carrier, which they can survive on

for a month or two under cool conditions. They can 

be applied with any standard insecticide applicator.

Steinernema 9
10

Once mixed with water, nematodes must be applied 

fairly quickly. Follow accompanying directions carefully 

for best results.

Nematodes may be purchased in lawn and garden 

shops or through biological mail-order catalogs.

Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt)—Bt is a naturally occurring 

soil bacterium typically used as a microbial insecticide. 

The Bt strain registered for the Japanese beetle is for 

use on the grub stage only. Bt is a stomach poison and 

must be ingested to be effective. Apply it to the soil as 

you would insecticides. Effectiveness is similar to that 

of insecticides. Check with your extension agent 

regarding the availability of Bt.

Milky Spore—Milky spore is the common name for 

spores of the bacterium Bacillus popillae. This 

bacterium was first registered for use on turf in 

suppression of the Japanese beetle grub in the United 

States in 1948.

Upon ingestion, these spores germinate in the grub’s 

gut, infect the gut cells, and enter the blood, where they 

multiply. The buildup of the spores in the blood causes 

the grub to take on a characteristic milky appearance.

Milky spore disease builds up in turf slowly (over 2 to 4 

years) as grubs ingest the spores, become infected, 

and die, each releasing 1–2 billion spores back into the 

soil. Milky spore disease can suppress the development 

of large beetle populations. But it works best when 

applied in communitywide treatment programs. Check 

with your extension agent regarding the availability of 

milky spore material.

Parasites—Releasing natural enemies or parasites of 

an exotic insect is a successfully proven method to

reduce pest populations. Introduced parasites must be 

shown to be host specific (that is, to parasitize only the 

target pest) before USDA approves releasing them.

Two such parasites of the Japanese beetle have been 

brought to the United States from Asia. Researchers 

have successfully established these insects in areas
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inhabited by the Japanese beetle, and the parasites 

are now functioning as important biological control 

agents of the beetle.

Tiphia vernalis, a parasite of the Japanese beetle grub,

and Istocheta aldrichi, a parasite of the adult, have 

been shown to be important in regulating the population 

dynamics of the beetle in many areas of the 

Northeastern United States.

These parasites are not yet commercially available; 

however, you can contact your local extension agent to 

see if they are established in your area. If they are, 

planting the appropriate food plants will attract these 

parasites and increase the rates of parasitization, and 

thus help control the Japanese beetle on your property.

Tiphia vernalis—This small, parasitic wasp of 

Japanese beetle grubs resembles a large, black, 

winged ant. Its current distribution is believed to be 

throughout the Northeastern United States and south 

to North Carolina.

After a brief period of feeding and mating during the 

spring, the female wasp digs into the soil, paralyzes a 

beetle grub by stinging, and then deposits an egg on 

the grub. When the egg hatches, the emerging wasp 

larva consumes the grub.

Food sources: Adult wasps of this species feed almost 

exclusively on the honeydew of aphids associated with 

the leaves of maple, cherry, and elm trees and peonies.

The nectar of tulip poplars has been found to be an 

important food source for the adult wasps.

Istocheta aldrichi—This solitary fly is an internal

parasite of the adult Japanese beetle. The female

flies are capable of depositing up to 100 eggs during a 

period of about 2 weeks. The eggs are usually laid on 

the thorax of the female beetles. Upon hatching, the 

maggot bores directly into the beetle’s body cavity,

killing the beetle.

Because it does not take this fly long to kill the beetle, 

I. aldrichi can suppress Japanese beetle populations 

before beetles can reproduce.
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Food sources: I. aldrichi is commonly seen feeding 

on aphid nectar deposited on Japanese knotweed 

(Polygonum cuspidatum), a persistent perennial weed 

native to Japan.

Habitat Manipulation—Sometimes people can suppress the population of pest insects by making the 

habitat less suitable for them. Cultural methods 

typically employed in the control of the Japanese 

beetle include planting resistant plant species and 

using mechanical traps designed to attract and trap 

the adult beetles.

Diseased and poorly nourished trees and plants are 

especially susceptible to attack by beetles. Therefore, 

keep your trees and plants healthy. Also, prematurely 

ripening or diseased fruit is very attractive to beetles. 

Remove this fruit from the trees and the ground. The 

odor of such fruit will attract beetles, which are then in 

a position to attack sound fruit.

Pay particular attention to well-maintained turf grasses 

showing patches of damage, especially in middle or 

late August, as these areas are attractive to female 

Japanese beetles for egg laying.

Although the Japanese beetle feeds on almost 300 

species of plants, it feeds sparingly or not at all on 

many cultivated plants. The various kinds of plants 

on your property can significantly influence the 

susceptibility of your property and plants to 

Japanese beetle damage. Having a well-dispersed 

mixture that favors nonpreferred species can reduce 

the level of beetle-caused damage.

Susceptible and Resistant Flora

When beetles are abundant, damage to plants can be 

minimized by using species that are immune to or 

seldom attacked by the insect. When planting new 

ornamental or modifying established plantings, make 

more extensive use of trees, shrubs, and other plants 

that are not preferred by the beetle. Select plants that 

are least likely to be seriously injured. Use the 

following list as a guide for determining what plants 

to cultivate on your property and what plants to stay 

away from.
1. Red maple Acer rubrum

2. Boxwood Buxus spp.

3. Hickory Carya spp.

4. Redbud Cercis spp.

5. Tulip poplar Liriodendron tulipifera

6. Dogwood Cornus spp.

7. Burning-bush Euonymus spp.

8. Forsythia Forsythia spp.

9. Ash Fraxinus spp.

10. Holly Ilex spp.

11. Juniper Juniperus spp.

12. Sweetgum Liquidambar styraciflua

13. Magnolia Magnolia spp.

14. Spruce Picea spp.

15. Pine Pinus spp.

16. Northern red oak Quercus rubrum

17. Lilac Syringa spp.

18. Yew Taxus spp.

19. Arborvitae Thuja spp.

20. Hemlock Tsuga spp.

*These plant lists do not document all the species that are

susceptible or resistant to Japanese beetle attack. Please

consult your local county extension personnel for more

information.

Woody Plants Susceptible to Adult Japanese

Beetle Feeding

Primary:

1. Japanese maple Acer palmatum

2. Norway maple Acer platanoides

3. Crape-myrtle Lagerstroemia indica

4. Apple, crabapple Malus spp.

5. Virginia creeper Parthenocissus quinquefolia

6. Plum, apricot,

cherry, peach Prunus spp.

7. Pin oak Quercus palustris

Keeping Japanese Beetles at Bay:

Best and Worst Plants to Have in

Your Yard*

20 Woody Plants Resistant to Adult 

Japanese Beetle Feeding

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8. Sassafras Sassafras albidum

9. American

mountain-ash Sorbus americana

10. Linden (American, 

European) Tilia spp.

Secondary:

1. Horse-chestnut Aesculus hippocastanum

2. Althaea Althaea spp.

3. Birch Betula spp.

4. Summer-sweet Clethra spp.

5. Hawthorn Crataegus spp.

6. Beech Fagus grandifolia

7. Black walnut Juglans nigra

8. Larch Larix laricina

9. Lombardy poplar Populus nigra var.

10. Willow Salix spp.

20 Herbaceous Plants Resistant to Adult Japanese 

Beetle Feeding

1. Ageratum Ageratum spp.

2. Columbine Aquilegia spp.

3. Dusty-miller Centaurea cineraria,

Lychnis coronaria

4. Begonia Begonia spp.

5. Lily-of-the-valley Convallaria majalis

6. Coreopsis Coreopsis spp.

7. Larkspur Delphinium spp.

8. Foxglove Digitalis spp.

9. California poppy Eschscholzia californica

10. Coral-bells Heuchera sanguinea

11. Hosta Hosta spp.

12. Impatiens Impatiens spp.

13. Lantana Lantana camara

14. Forget-me-not Myosotis spp.

15. Pachysandra Pachysandra spp.

16. Poppy Papaver spp.

17. Moss-rose Portulaca grandiflora

18. Showy sedum Sedum spectabile

19. Nasturtium Tropaeolum majus

20. Violet, pansy Viola spp.

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Herbaceous Plants Susceptible to Adult Japanese

Beetle Feeding

Primary:

1. Hollyhock Alcea rosea

2. Dahlia Dahlia spp.

3. Hibiscus Hibiscus moscheutos

4. Common mallow Malva rotundiflora

5. Evening-primrose Oenothera biennis

6. Soybean Glycine max

7. Pennsylvania

smartweed Polygonum pensylvanicum

8. Rose Rosa spp.

9. Grape Vitis spp.

10. Sweet corn Zea mays

Secondary:

1. Clematis Clematis spp.

2. Gladiolus Gladiolus spp.

3. Sunflower Helianthus annuus

4. Morning-glory Ipomoea purpurea

5. Cardinal flower Labelia cardinalis

6. Peony Paeonia spp.

7. Asparagus Asparagus officinalis

8. Rhubarb Rheum rhabarbum

9. Red raspberry Rubus idaeus

10. Zinnia Zinnia spp.

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Mechanical Traps

Millions of beetles are captured annually in mechanical 

traps. This method is an easy and inexpensive way to 

reduce beetle populations and curtail egg laying. 

Under favorable conditions, a trap will capture only 

about 75 percent of the beetles that approach it. 

Because the traps actually attract more beetles than 

they capture, be sure not to put traps near your garden 

or your favorite plants. Put traps at the borders of your 

property, away from plants the beetles may damage.

Traps are most effective when many of them are

spread over an entire community.

Homeowners who choose to try the mechanical 

traps and lures as part of their IPM program can 

typically find them at yard and garden centers.

Traps should not stay in place year round because the

lures inside get stale. Trap placement should be timed

to coincide with the emergence of adult Japanese 

beetles in your area. Adults generally emerge between 

early June and late August. Check with your extension 

agent for information about the Japanese beetle flight 

period in your area.

Communication

Communication can be a valuable tool in controlling 

the Japanese beetle. Talk to your neighbors regarding 

possible solutions for this problem pest. Organize a 

neighborhood turf and garden group and develop a 

cooperative IPM program. Invite local experts, such as 

extension agents or representatives from a 

horticultural society or nearby university or college, to 

speak to your group.

Conclusion

The Japanese beetle can be a destructive pest of 

trees, plants, and turf. It is important to understand 

that an IPM program will not eliminate all Japanese 

beetles from your property; however, the management 

options discussed here can help you reduce the 

damage inflicted by this pest.

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