# Lanier R/C 

# 1.20 Edge 540T

A

lmost 

# R

eady to 

# F

ly

WARNING! THIS IS NOT A TOY!

THIS IS NOT A BEGINNERS AIRPLANE

This R/C kit and the model you will build from it is not a toy! It is capable of serious bodily harm and property damage. It is your responsibility, and yours alone - to build this kit correctly, properly install all R/C components and flying gear (engine, tank, radio, pushrods, etc. and to test the model and fly it only with experienced, competent help, using commonsense and in accordance with all safety standards as set forth in the Academy of Model Aeronautics Safety Code. It is suggested that you join the AMA and become properly insured before attempting to fly this model. If you are just starting R/C modeling, consult your local hobby dealer or write to the Academy of Model Aeronautics to find an experienced instructor in your area. Write to: Academy of Model Aeronautics, 5151 Memorial Dr. Muncie, IN 47302

LIMITED WARRANTY

Lanier R/C is proud of the care and attention that goes into the manufacture of parts for its model kits. The company warrants that for a period of 3 0 days, it will replace, at the buyers request, any part or material shown to the company’s satisfaction to have been defective in workmanship or material at the time of purchase.

No other warranty of any kind, expressed or implied, is made with respect to the merchandise sold by the company. The buyer acknowledges and understands that he is purchasing only a component kit from which the buyer will himself construct a finished flying model airplane. The company is neither the manufacturer of such a flying model airplane, nor a seller of it. The buyer hereby assumes the risk and all liability for personal or property damage or injury arising out of the buyers use of the components or the finished flying model airplane, whenever any such damage or injury shall occur.

Any action brought forth against the company, based on the breach of the contract of sale to the buyer, or on any alleged warranty thereunder, must be brought within one year of the date of such sale, or there after be barred. This one-year limitation is imposed by agreement of the parties as permitted by the laws of the state of Georgia.

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# – 1.20 Edge 540T ARF - INSTRUCTIONS

BUILDING INSTRUCTIONS

Before starting to build this kit, we urge you to read through these instructions t horoughly. They contain some important building sequences as well as instructions and warnings concerning the assembly

and use of the model.

BUILDING SUPPLIES NEEDED Hobby knife w/ #11 blade Medium Zap CA 30 Minute Z-poxy

Wire cutters

Pliers Drill with bits: 1/32”, 1/16”, 1/8”, 5/32”, 1⁄4”

See the list at the end of the instruction book for a list of additional R/C equipment you will need to complete the 1.20 Edge 540.

1. Locate (8) hinges.

2. Use the picture as a guide to find the (4) holes in each aileron and each side of the wing. Test fit a hinge in each hole.

3. Put a small drop of oil on each hinge, then use 30 minute epoxy on each hinge and hole. Press the ailerons in place, leaving a 1/32” gap at the hinge line, then wipe off any excess epoxy off with alcohol and a paper towel. 4. At the two locations on the wing, remove the covering from the hole to install your aileron

servo. Check the hole for the servo wires. If needed, use a piece of 3/8 or 1⁄2” brass tube to cut a passage for the wire to the servo opening. 5. Install your aileron servo with the hardware included with your radio. You may need to enlarge the hole in the wing with a file or small saw, depending on the size of the servo you use. Drill a small pilot hole (1/32”) for each screw. Hook the servo to your radio and turn it on. Set

the trim tabs to neutral and center the servo.

6. Locate the (2) 8” long 2-56 rods, (2) clevis, (2) couplers, (2) washers, and (2) 3 x 40mm Philips

screws. Install a clevis on the end of each rod.

7. Install a (4) arm servo wheel on the servo temporarily, making sure it is parallel to the wing. Locate the hard points in the ailerons, and pierce the covering with a sharp hobby blade. Install the (2) aileron control horn screws from the top of the wing, down through the aileron. Secure the bolt with a washer, nut, and thread lock. Install the (2) couplers on the control horn bolts until the threads just show from the tops. Hook the links to the aileron couplers and lay the

rods across the servo arm.

8. Mark the location of the servo arm holes on the

control rods. This is the location for the “z”

bend on the each control rod. Make a “z” bend on each control rod with needle nose pliers or “z” bend pliers, then cut off the excess control rod. Install the “z” bend on the servo arm, at the same hole on each arm. You may need to enlarge the hole with a small drill bit. Cut off the (3) extra arms with wire cutters. 9. Check again that the servo is centered with your radio, then reinstall the servo horn and screw it in place. If the ailerons are not level, disconnect the links and adjust them until they are level. Place a short piece of fuel tubing around each

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# – 1.20 Edge 540T ARF - INSTRUCTIONS

clevis to secure in place.

10. Using a sharp hobby blade, cut the covering away from the wing tube and locating pin holes. You may want to seal the covering down with CA or a sealing iron.

11. Test fit the wing tube through the fuselage. Use a ruler to help center the tube in the fuse, then mark the alignment with a permanent marker.

12. Temporarily mount th e wing on the wing tube, sliding the dowels in the locator holes. Be careful to keep the tube centered in the fuse.

13. Locate the (2) 4-40 x 1” bolts. With the wings tight against the fuse, Drill (2) 0.1” holes through

the aluminum tube. 14. Use a 4-40 tap to thread the holes in the tube.

15. Counter sink the hard points 1/8” deep with a 1/4”drill bit. Work carefully to keep the wood from splitting.

16. Test fit the bolts in the holes. Put thread lock on one bolt and cover the bolt hole with 3m vinyl tape. Leave this bolt in place permanently.

17. When ready for flying, put 3m clear vinyl tape

over the other bolt.

18. Cut the covering from the holes in the rear of the fuse for the horizontal stabilizer. Temporarily install the horizontal stabilizer using the stab

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# – 1.20 Edge 540T ARF - INSTRUCTIONS

tube to hold it in place. Center it as was done with the wing tube.

19. Locate the hole in the mounting block of the stab and pierce the covering with a sharp hobby

blade. Check the fit of the locating pins in the fuse holes. If needed, run a bead of ca around the pins and spray with kicker, then sand the glue down to fit in the holes with a tight fit. 20. Locate the (2) 4-40 x 5/8” bolts with the stabilizer halves tight against the fuse. Drill (2) 0.1” holes through the aluminum tube.

21. Use a 4-40 tap to thread the holes in the tube,

then install the screws.

22. Locate the tail surface hinges. Notice that there are two hinges that are cut down. These must go on the inside positions of the elevator halves to

clear the stab tube. 23. Locate the (3) hinge holes in each of the elevator halves, rudder, and corresponding holes on the stabilizers, then open the covering with a sharp hobby blade. Test fit one of the (9) hinges in each of the holes. Put a small drop of oil on each of the hinges. Install the hinges in the control surfaces only, using 30 minute epoxy, then align them by pressing onto a flat surface. Clean up any excess glue with alcohol. Continue on to the next step before the glue sets up.

24. Install the surfaces on the rear of the fuselage using 30 minute epoxy. Press in place and leave a 1/32” gap. Wipe off any excess glue with alcohol and a paper towel. Let set until cured.

25. Install your servos in the servo tray in the fuselage. Depending on what servos you use, you may need to widen the servo openings. Drill a small pilot hole (1/32”) for each servo screw, then install. Connect the servos to your radio and center trim tabs and controls. Temporarily

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# – 1.20 Edge 540T ARF - INSTRUCTIONS

press a straight servo horn in each servo.

26. Locate the hard poi nts for the control horn screws in the elevator halves and pierce the covering with a sharp hobby blade.

27. Install the (2) 3 x 35mm screw from the top of the surface and fasten with a washer, nut, and thread lock. Screw a coupler on the end of the screws until the first thread is exposed. (the

elevator servo will be installed later after the motor is mounted)

28. Locate the tail hardware, (1) threaded rod, (2) couplers, (2) nuts, (2) washers.

29. Locate the rudder hard point and pierce the hole on both sides with a sharp hobby blade. Put the threaded rod through the hole and capture in place with a washer, nut, and thread lock on each side. Use your ruler to make sure the sides are of equal length. 30. Install the rudder couplers on each side of the threaded rod until the first thread is exposed and the coupler points toward the front of the fuse.

31. Locate a (4) arm servo horn and remove 2 arms

as shown above. Cut the cable for the rudder control in two equal lengths, approximately 36”. Slide a crimp fastener on each cable, then loop the cable through the outside holes of the servo

horn. Slide the fastener back over the loose cable end and pull up the slack as shown above. Crimp the fastener several times using some pliers. Pull the cable firmly to test.

32. Install a clevis on the end of each of the two rudder connectors, then snap in place on the rudder couplers. Cut the covering from the slots

in the side of the fuse for the cable exit.

33. Use your radio and center the trim on the rudder

servo. Install the servo horn on the rudder servo with the arms perpendicular to the fuse sides. Use a long piece of wire or yellow Sullivan nyrod to help feed the wire through the holes to the rear of the fuselage. Be sure to keep the cables from twisting.

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# – 1.20 Edge 540T ARF - INSTRUCTIONS

34. Slide the clear tubing over the cables and half way into the holes in the fuse. Glue in place

with ca.

35. Slide two more cable fasteners down the cable, then insert the cable through the holes at the end

of the rudder clevis.

Loop the cable back and slide the cable fastener over the loose end of the cable. Pull the loops as tight as possible, and then crimp the fasteners. There should be only slight tension on the cables to the rudder, and it should be centered. This can be adjusted by looseni ng or tightening the clevis

on the cable connectors. 36. Locate the tail wheel bracket and parts.

37. Fasten the tail bracket at the rear of the fuse with two 1⁄2 screws. Drill two 1/16 pilot holes before installing. Install so the an gle is aligned with the edge of the vertical stabilizer.

. 38. Locate the springs for the tail, and prepare the ends by bending a loop on each end. 39. Drill a 1/16” hole in the rudder, just past the

clevis.

40. Install a spring on each side of the rudder. Shorten the springs if needed to put even tension on the arms and keep the axle centered.

41. Install the tail wheel on the axle, then secure

with the small wheel collar and set screw. Use

some thread lock on the screw.

42. Place the fiberglass cowl on the fuse and fasten with the 1⁄2” #4 screws through the holes. Measure from the engine crank hole to the

firewall surface with a ruler. Write down the length. This is the distance that will be from the firewall to the prop back plate on your motor.

43. Place your engine in your engine mount and bolt in place with (4) 8-32 x 1” bolts (Dubro #318). Either tap the holes into the engine mount, or drill through and lock in place with 8-32 washers (Dubro #327) and lock nuts (Dubro #329). Try to position the motor on the motor mount so that

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# – 1.20 Edge 540T ARF - INSTRUCTIONS

the distance from the back of the motor mount to the front of the prop plate is the same as the cowl measurement you made earlier.

44. Use a ruler and measure up from the bottom of

the firewall 3-1/2”. Mark a horizontal line across the firewall at that point.

45. Use your ruler again to find the center of the line

and mark it. Make a second mark 1/8” to the right of the center mark, and make a second mark, then draw a line perpendicular to the first

line.

46. Center your engine mount on these lines, then

mark the holes on the firewall. 47. Drill the holes for 8-32 bolts and temporarily mount the engine on the firewall with 8-32 x 1” bolts (Dubro #318), washers (Dubro #327), and blind nuts (Dubro #347).

48. Measure the distance from the firewall to the front of the prop back plate and compare to the measurement you calculated earlier. You should

have a minimum of 1/8” clearance from the back of the prop to the front of the cowling. If needed, use some scrap plywood spacers to space the engine forward.

49. Place two #8 washers between the firewall and engine mount on both right side engine mounting bolts (facing the firewall) to give the engine right

thrust.

© 2001 Lanier R/C Page - 7 50. Mark on the firewall the location where the throttle control rod should pass through. Remove the engine and drill the marked hole with a 1/8”drill bit. Using the throttle servo as a

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# – 1.20 Edge 540T ARF - INSTRUCTIONS

guide, drill the second bulkhead for the control

rod.

51. Slide the “z” bend of the engine control rod into the hole on the servo arm of your throttle servo. Temporarily install your e ngine using the engine bolts, washers, and nuts, sliding both halves of the engine control rod through the small hole in

the firewall. 52. Make sure your carburetor and throttle servo are at low position. Reverse your servo if necessary. Install an EZ connector (Dubro #121, NOT INCLUDED) in the hole approximately the same length of the servo arm. Trim the throttle control rod to approximate length, then insert through the hole in the EZ connector. Tighten the connector enough to test the throw of the servo and adjust as needed to allow for maximum throw, but not bind the servo. When satisfied, trim the control rod to 1⁄4” past the EZ connector. Install the servo horn screw, but don’t fasten the EZ connector yet, you may need to pull the engine out again soon. When everything is fit, then fuel proof the firew all with polyurethane or thinned epoxy.

53. Test fit the cowl over the engine to see what

needs to be relieved.

54. Tape a strip of heavy paper on the side of the

fuse as shown. Mark the areas that need to be cut, then cut out the holes on the paper. 55. Reposition the paper back on the fuse and secure in place. Do the same for the needle valve on the top of the fuse.

56. Place the cowl on the front of the fuselage and secure in place with the screws. Mark all the holes with a pencil or water soluble marker.

57. Remove the cowl and drill all needed holes. You may need to use a rotary tool and sanding drum or a small fine blade saw and sand paper to open the hole for the engine head.

58. Reinstall your engine a nd test fit the cowl. Use

the #4 screws and washers to secure the cowl. Adjust the openings if needed.

59. Install your muffler on the engine and test fit the cowl again. A “Pitts” style muffler should not require much adjustment, but a standard aircraft muffler will require additional openings.

60. Now is when to install the tail servos. Depending on the engine and mount used, you may want to install the elevator servo up in the fuse servo tray. Both installations are shown, but the materials for the push rod is not included. Use of a light engine my require you to put all the radio gear and even some lead in the nose to

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achieve proper balance. For the front servo installation, skip to step 64, for the rear servo installation, continue to next step.

61. Locate the holes in the si de of the fuse for the tail

servos. There is one on each side. Note that the cutouts are not opposite each other, but are offset. This allows you to mount one servo with the arm down and the other with the arm up, eliminating the need for a servo reverser and allowing you to use a standard “Y” harness. Cut the covering from the slots with a sharp hobby

knife. 62. Locate the two push rods, (2) 8” 2-56 rods. Install a clevis on the end of each 2-56 rod, then install a 4 arm servo horn on each servo, making sure the arms are square to the tail surfaces.

63. Plug a clevis into each coupler and rod, then lay

them across the servo arm. Mark the location of

the servo arm holes on the control rods. This is

the location for the “z” bend on the each control

rod. Make a “z” bend on each control rod with needle nose pliers or “z” bend pliers, then cut off

the excess control rod. Install the “z” bend on the servo arm, at the same hole on each arm. You may need to enlarge the hole with a small drill bit. Cut off the (3) extra arms with wire

cutters. Skip to step 77.

64. Front servo installation. Note: For 3d aerobatics or when using a high-end motor,

use the rear servo method and use 4-40 pushrods, even if nose weight is needed for proper balancing. You will need the following materials, a 24” x 3/8 Dia. Hardwood dowel (NI), (2) 2-56 x 12” control rod (dubro #172), (2) 2-56 clevis (Dubro#122), and (2) pieces of 3/8 shrink tube (Dubro #440) or thread and CA to

fasten the ends of the control rod.

65. Twist the 2-56 clevis on the end of each push rod, then measure back 6”. Make a bend of about 5 degrees at that distance.

66. Measure 1-1/4” in on each end of the pushrod.

67. Use a sharp hobby blade to cut one groove on the servo end, and two groves on the elevator end of the push rod. Make sure the servo end is centered from the two grove end.

68. Drill a 3/32” hole at the back of the groove, through the pushrod. Make a second hole on the two groove end, about 1/8 forward of the first. 69. If you are using shri nk tubing, slide it on the pushrod now. If you are using thread and ca,

continue on.

70. Align the control rods on the elevator end of the pushrod, keeping the clevis even with each other. Mark the control rods where they intersect with

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# – 1.20 Edge 540T ARF - INSTRUCTIONS

the holes, then bend them 90 degrees. Cut the

control rods off about 1⁄4” from the bend.

71. Insert the control rods in the elevator end of the rod and slide the shrink tubing over the joint, or wrap with thread and glue with ca.

72. Measure down from the horizontal stabilizer 3⁄4”, and follow the ends of the rudder cable exits up to mark the opening for the push rod exit. Cut the opening with a sharp hobby blade.

73. Slide the control rod down the fuse center and feed the clevis out the openings to the elevator. Snap the clevis on the control coupler.

74. Use on of the 2-56 control rods and bend one end down 1⁄4”. Slide the other piece of shrink tubing down the pushrod if needed.

75. Insert the control rod in the pushrod, and lay

over the elevator servo. Mark the intersection and make a “z” bend for the servo horn, then

install and test.

76. Slide the heat shrink tubing in place and heat, or install the thread and ca. Adjust the clevis to

make sure the elevator halves are level to each other.

77. Center the gear on the landing gear plate and

mark the holes with a marker.

78. Drill through the landing gear plate with a 5/32” bit and then install (2) 4 x 20mm screws and

washers.

79. Fasten the landing gear to the fuse with (2) 4 mm nuts and washers, use thread lock.

80. Use the inside ply brackets as a guide to open the fiberglass up with a 1⁄2” hole. Mark the wheel pants, one left and one right side.

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81. Bolt the axle through the landing gear with the axles pointing out. Use thread lock on the bolt.

82. Install the tip of the axle through the pant, then the wheel and collar, then slide the assembly all the way down the axle. Tighten the wheel collar so that it does not bind the wheel against the

wheel. 83. Align each wheel pant to the fuse so that it is

level with the thrust line and the rear does not drag the ground, and keep the pair equal. Drill a small pilot hole in the fibe rglass, then install a #4 x 1⁄4” screw through the small hole in the landing

gear.

84. Locate the fuel tank and remove all the components for assembly. Check the inside of the tank for any dust or plastic shavings. Blow

out if needed. Notice one side of the tank has an angle on it. With the fittings to the front, this side faces up. You may want to mark this side “top” with a permanent marker.

85. Bend the metal fuel tubes as illustrated on the

included instructions to fit in the tank, then insert in the fuel stopper. Insert the clunk on the end of the silicone fuel tubing and cut to required length that allow it to move freely at the end of the tank. Insert the nut and bolt in the stopper, then install the stopper in the tank and tighten.

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# – 1.20 Edge 540T ARF - INSTRUCTIONS

86. Slide the tank in the fuselage through the cut opening with the metal lines out through the firewall. Secure in place with a drop of goop or

foam. 87. Install your fuel line on the end of the tank lines to the muffler pressure and carburetor fittings. Make sure to allow enough extra line to the needle valve line to give access for filling.

88. Install the lower moto r box plate (the plate is 1⁄4 thick) on the front of the fuse with epoxy.

89. Cut 2 pieces of 3/8” triangle stock, 3” long and glue in place with ca.

90. Install the upper motor box plate on the fuse. You can glue this plate in place as was done with the lower, or you can glue the 3” hardwood rails in place, then use screws to hold down the hatch. The latter is recommended if you need to install your battery in the front compartment to balance your edge.

91. Test fit your top fuse hatch in place, then secure

with 2 #4 screws into th e tabs at the bottom of the hatch.

92. Trim the clear plastic canopy 1⁄4” from the scribed line, then test fit on the fuselage. Trim if needed. Wash the canopy out with cool water and dish detergent, then dry with a paper towel.

93. Now is the time to install any cockpit details, such as dashboards or pilots (NOT INCLUDED). Secure them firmly in the cockpit with epoxy.

94. Install the canopy on the fuselage with epoxy or “goop”. Hold in place with tape until cured.

95. With your engine fully set up, now reinstall the cowling and fasten in place with the 1⁄2” #4 screws and #4 washers. Apply the (2) pieces of white striping tape to al ign with the stripes on

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the fuselage. Install your prop and 3” spinner. (We recommend Tru Turn spinners.)

96. Temporarily place your battery and receiver in the fuse, then install the wing. You want the plane to balance at a point 4” to 4-3/4” back from the leading edge, measured at the fuselage

side. 97. Move your battery for or aft as needed to achieve a balance. If needed, put the battery in the forward compartment, behind the firewall. If you use a lightweight e ngine, you may need to put some lead in the compartment also. When the proper radio gear position is found, wrap the gear with foam and secure in place with Velcro

or rubber bands.

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# – 1.20 Edge 540T ARF - INSTRUCTIONS

CONTROL THROWS

Rudder: Low rate – 1-1/2” each way High rate - all you can get

Elevator: Low rate - 1” each way High rate – all you can get

Ailerons: Low rate – 1/2” each way High rate – all you can get

PRE-FLIGHT NOTES Before the first flight y ou should double check a few things to ensure a long life for your new plane.

1. Balance the Edge with the fuel tank empty. Adjust as needed for your particular flying style,

but start with the CG forward for the first few flights. 2. Check the control surface throws twice. You may want to change them later, but use the suggestions as a starting point. 3. Break in the engine and test run it. Have it ready before you head to the field. 4. Range check the radio with the engine running to

make sure there are no intermittent radio problems.

Double check that all the hardware, nuts, bolts, and hinges are tight.

INCLUDED MATERIALS

15 Hinges

2 Aileron 2 Wing half

4 2-56 control rod

2 3x40 mm screw 1 Aluminum wing tube

2 4-40 x 1” screw

2 4-40 x 1/2 ” screw 1 Fuselage 1 Fiberglass cowl 1 Engine control cable

1 Throttle ez connector

8 #4 x 1⁄2 screw 1 Aluminum landing gear

2 4x 2 0 mm bolt

2 4mm nut

4 4mm washer 2 Fiberglass wheel pant

2 Mail wheel axle

2 Axle nut

2 Main wheel

2 Axle collar and screw

2 #4 x 1⁄4 screw

1 Fuel tank 1 Stabilizer tube

2 Horizontal stabilizer

2 Elevator half 2 Cut hinges

1 Rudder

2 3x35 mm screw

6 3mm washer

4 3mm nuts 6 Coupler

1 Rudder control rod

1 Steel cable 4 Crimp connector

6 Clevis

2 Rudder cable connector 2 Cable guide tube 1 Tail wheel assembly 12” Triangle balsa

12” 1⁄4” hard wood

1 1/8” hatch cover plate 1 1⁄4” hatch base plate 1 Clear canopy

ADDITIONAL EQUIPMENT NEEDED TO

COMPLETE YOUR EDGE 1.20 ARF

General .90 - 1.20 Size two stroke or 1.20 – 1.80 R/C engine

and muffler Hayes engine mount for your motor

fuel line Minimum of 4 channel radio set required with (6)

servos 30 minute Z-poxy Medium Zap CA (green)

(4) Dubro #318 8-32 bolts (12) Dubro #327 #8 washers (4) Dubro #347 #8 blind nuts (1) Dubro #121 ez connector (6) Dubro #382 #4 screws, if you don’t glue the front

hatch down (1) 24” 1⁄4” dia hardwood dowel (2) Dubro #172 2-56 rod (2) Dubro #440 3/8 shrink tube or sewing thread (2) Dubro #122 quick links (6) Dubro #323 #4 washers (1) radio foam Tru Turn 3” spinner 3mm tap 3m vinyl tape Williams Bro. Pilot figure

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