THE TEXTILE CLEANING PROCESS

CHARLES L. RIGGS, Ph.D.

Texas Woman’s University

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The Textile Cleaning Process

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The Textile Cleaning Process

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The Textile Cleaning Process

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The Textile Cleaning Process

Drycleaning Machine

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The Textile Cleaning Process

Wetcleaning Machine and Dryer

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The Textile Cleaning Process

Expectations

Remove soils and stains

Avoid damage to the item

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The Textile Cleaning Process

Cleaning Fluid Options

An aqueous solvent that, chemically, is a polar solvent 

Water

A nonaqueous solvent that, chemically, is a nonpolar solvent

Currently includes petroleum and tetrachloroethylene

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Solvent

Odor retention 

Embellishment damage, especially some types of beads and sequins

Water

Shrinkage

Color loss

Bleeding

Change in surface character

The Textile Cleaning Process

Observed Damage

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Relaxation

Based on how fabric has been processed or worn

Fiber is elongated 

Does not recover

Relaxed by washing

Shrinkage stops when fiber is fully relaxed

Progressive

Fiber is not compatible with a specific treatment causing an irreversible shortening of the fiber

Shrinkage continues and is cumulative based on amount of exposure

The Textile Cleaning Process

Shrinkage

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Soils	

Removed by agitation

Dissolved in water or solvent

Polar (water soluble) includes salts, sugars, blood, urine, and other bodily fluids

Nonpolar (solvent soluble) includes oils, greases, fats, waxes 

Particulate (not soluble) includes sand, dust, soot

Stains

Material bound in the fabric that must be modified and/or removed with chemical treatments 

Attempted before cleaning, during cleaning (prespotted), or after cleaning (post spotted)

The Textile Cleaning Process

Soils and Stains

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Dryclean

No problem with nonpolar soils

Problem with polar soils

Add detergents and water to the solvent (up to 75% RH)

Pre/post spot with water

Knowledge of soil type present necessary for success

Wetclean

No problem with polar soils

Problem with nonpolar soils

Add special detergents, emulsifiers, etc.

Pre/post spot with solvents

Knowledge of soil type present necessary for success

The Textile Cleaning Process

Matching Cleaning Method to Soil

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Process developed in the 1800s

Quality of solvent was poor, but recycling was standard practice

No method for disposal of dirty solvent and removed soils – typically poured on the ground 

Same as for used motor oil and industrial solvents

Problem water-soluble soils were removed by hand wetcleaning

Remediation is underway

The Textile Cleaning Process

Environmental Issues with Drycleaning

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Fiber can be elongated, recovery is slow

Recovery accelerated by humidity

Fiber is covered with scales that provide both positive and negative attributes

Felting occurs when fiber is exposed to heat, moisture, and agitation

Fiber shortens with scales                     overlapping and locking in position

Narrow end of one fiber moves out                      of yarn structure and entangles with           adjacent fiber

The Textile Cleaning Process

Wool Shrinkage

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The Textile Cleaning Process

Textile Fibers

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Dryclean

Regular cycle regardless of solvent

Local hand wetcleaning is normal procedure based on soil type

Wetclean

Mild detergent

Minimum mechanical action

Relaxation and minor felting can be recovered by elongation

Shrinkage progressive with multiple cleanings

The Textile Cleaning Process

Traditional Wool Fabrics

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Limited success

Partially removes the scale structure and/or coats the scales with a finish

Potential Issues

Changes the feel (or hand) of the fabric

Degrades the durability of the finish

Alkali found in standard laundry detergents attacks the wool protein

The Textile Cleaning Process

Washable Wool Fabrics

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Dryclean

No connection to water or sewer

All solvent, soils, and additives captured, filtered, distilled

Solvent reused in same machine

Approx. 1 gallon of solvent lost for every 1000 lbs. cleaned

Wetclean

Water, removed soils, detergents discharged to sewer

Fresh water at 85 ̊ F to 104 ̊ F with consumption usually 2.4 gallons of water/lb. 

Detergents based on soil and fabric type

The Textile Cleaning Process

Current Technology

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Washing and wetcleaning use water treated for drinking and discharge soils, detergents, solvents, and used water to the sewer

Dry-to-dry drycleaning uses solvents that are recycled by filtration and distillation

Soils and detergents concentrated and disposed by licensed hazardous waste company

The Textile Cleaning Process

Environmentally Friendly?

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The Textile Cleaning Process

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Workwear that is heavily soiled with oil, grease, perspiration, and particulate soils

Problem for all technologies to clean

Commonly processed in industrial laundries that use water and special additives

Discharge waste water to an onsite pretreatment plant before discharge to sewer

The Textile Cleaning Process

Scenario to Consider

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The Textile Cleaning Process

The Textile Cleaning Process

Tunnel Washer

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Could dryclean with no additives to remove oil, grease and most of the particulates.  

Solvent and soils go directly to distillation

After complete solvent recovery, items are washed using water and small amount of detergent to aide in wetting

Waste is concentrated and goes to appropriate recycle/waste disposal

Very little is discharged with the waste water to the sewer

The Textile Cleaning Process

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The Textile Cleaning Process

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