Boaters’ Guide 

Judith Landing to James Kipp Recreation Area

Upper Missouri River Breaks National Monument 
“The Salts coal & Burnt hills & Pumieston 

Still continue, game scerce. This Countrey 

may with propriety I think be termed the 

Deserts of America, as I do not conceive 

any part can ever be settled, as it is deficent 

in water, Timber & too steep to be tilled...”

William Clark, May 26, 1805
3

CONTENTS

The Upper Missouri River: 

Flowing with History and Adventure .................5

How to Use This Boaters’ Guide ........................6

Know Before You Go...........................................8

Safety Considerations.......................................19

On The River......................................................24

A Living Museum...............................................30

Maps - Judith Landing to 

Kipp Recreation Area ........................................38

Sites and Facilities Chart..................................74

Emergency and Contact Information...............75
4

National Landscape Conservation System

The Upper Missouri River Breaks National Monument 

is part of the National Landscape Conservation System 

(NLCS), or National Conservation Lands, whose 

wild character and world-class resources are under 

the stewardship of the Bureau of Land Management 

(BLM). This program incorporates National Scenic 

and Historic Trails, Wild and Scenic Rivers, Wilderness 

Areas, and National Monuments, to name a few. The 

BLM’s mission for the NLCS is to conserve, protect, 

and restore nationally significant landscapes and places 

that have outstanding cultural, ecological, and scientific 

values for the benefit of current and future generations. 

The BLM’s vision for the NLCS is to be a world leader 

in conservation by protecting landscapes, applying 

evolving knowledge, and bringing people together to 

share stewardship of the land.
5

The Upper Missouri River: 

Flowing with History and Adventure

Welcome to the Upper Missouri River Breaks National Monument! 

Unspoiled and rugged, the lands of the Upper Missouri River Breaks 

National Monument stretch across almost 380,000 acres in central 

Montana and contain a spectacular array of plants, animals, geology 

and history. 

No less notable for its history than for its wildlife, the Upper Missouri 

Region was first documented in 1805 by famed explorers Meriwether 

Lewis and William Clark. In his journal, Clark described the abundant 

wildlife of the area including mule deer, elk, bison and pronghorn. 

On April 29, 1805, the Lewis and Clark Expedition recorded the first 

big horn sheep observation by non-Indians in North America. Clark’s 

description of the magnificent White Cliffs area on the western side of 

the monument was particularly poignant:

During their trip, the explorers encountered Native Americans. The 

land later became a source of hope and inspiration for early American 

settlers, not to mention a sanctuary for outlaws eager to hide in the 

labyrinth of the badlands. Fur trappers and traders, too, could be 

seen moving their goods downriver in waters that reflected designs 

of modern steamboats. Remnants of this rich history are scattered 

throughout the monument, and it retains many of the same qualities 

and much of the same appearance today as it did then, thanks to 

the care and stewardship of farming and ranching families, land 

management professionals and visitors like you.

This 149-mile segment of Montana’s Upper Missouri is an 

irreplaceable legacy of the historic American West and as such, it was 

designated a National Wild and Scenic River by Congress in 1976. 

Thousands of visitors have come through this land to experience the 

true sense of freedom, to peer into homesteads that have withstood 

the test of time, observe petroglyphs, and walk among ancient tipi 

rings where tribes gathered. In 2001, the river corridor, segments 

of the Lewis and Clark and Nez Perce National Historic Trails, six 

Wilderness Study Areas (WSA) and the Cow Creek Area of Critical 

Environmental Concern were designated the Upper Missouri River 

Breaks National Monument.

“The hills and river Clifts which we passed today 

exhibit a most romantic appearance. The bluffs 

of the river rise to the hight of from 2 to 300 feet 

and in most places nearly perpendicular; they 

are formed of remarkable white sandstone which 

is sufficiently soft to give way readily to the 

impression of water.”

-William Clark, May 31, 1805
6

The Bureau of Land Management is entrusted with managing your 

public lands here. We work to sustain the health, diversity, and 

productivity of the public lands for the use and enjoyment of present 

and future generations. Our team cherishes this remote, beautiful part 

of the country and we know you will as well. We hope your visit to 

the Upper Missouri is safe and pleasant, and that you’ll find yourself 

engaged in your own unique adventure and enchantment each time 

you visit.

How to Use This Boaters’ Guide

Being well prepared for your trip on the Upper Missouri River makes 

for an experience full of pleasure and discovery. However, if you are 

unprepared, it can be a very tough and potentially dangerous trip. 

Read the next section, “What You Need to Know before Your Trip,” 

prior to launching.

The remainder of this guide is intended to enrich the Upper Missouri 

experience for both new and well-seasoned river floaters. It contains 

safety tips, up-to-date maps, camping and hiking information, and 

informational material to engage you in the historical, biological and 

geological wonders of the area.

The guide provides 15 maps of the river with an accompanying 

discussion about each map on the opposite facing page. Information 

is indexed to designations by “river miles,” which is the distance along 

the river traveling downstream (generally west to east) from Fort 

Benton, Montana (river mile 0), to the Fred Robinson Bridge at James 

Kipp Recreation Area (river mile 149). This Boaters’ Guide covers 

the river section from Judith Landing (river mile 88.5) to James Kipp 

Recreation Area (river mile 149). 

Features along the river are identified by their river mile location and 

further detailed as located to the left of the downstream bow of a boat 

(e.g., 88.5 L), or to the right of the downstream bow (e.g., 149.0 R). 

In addition, the popular stretch of the river between Judith Landing 

(river mile 88.5) and James Kipp Recreation Area (river mile 149) is 

frequently referred to as the “Missouri Breaks” section of the Upper 

Missouri since it contains the stark rugged badlands.
7

The Breaks is a local geographic term describing the rugged 

valleys, badlands, bluffs, and coulees surrounding the upper 

Missouri River areas. It is often said that it appears that the land 

breaks away to the river. Others have described this terrain as 

upside-down mountains or badlands, though the Breaks is the 

most common term used to describe this area.

Two large pull-out maps in this guide show the entire river corridor. 

They are included because public land within the Monument 

extends beyond the immediate banks of the river into upland areas 

in many locations, especially on the lower stretch of the river. You 

are welcome to hike on public land, but remember, you need prior 

landowner permission to go beyond the ordinary high-water mark of 

the river onto private land. 

Via color-coding, the maps show private, BLM, U.S. Fish and Wildlife 

Service, and State of Montana land. Most of the boundaries between 

public and private land are not marked by signs. Utilization of global 

positioning systems, maps and situational awareness will assist you 

in determining where you are.

On many pages we have left large blank spaces where you are 

encouraged to write your own notes. You, too, can be an explorer 

and adventurer. Your journal may not become as famous as Lewis 

and Clark’s, but recording your own observations and impressions 

will help you create your own memories more valuable than any other 

story of the “Breaks.”
8

Know Before You Go

Plan your Trip

Use this guide to help you plan your trip carefully and strategically.

Although the waters here are classified as easy and smooth, there 

are reasons why this area is known as a Wild and Scenic River. In 

addition to self-registry when launching, tell someone where you are 

going and when you plan to return. Ensure all boating and camping 

equipment is in working order before departure. It’s up to you to 

ensure your own safety and enjoyment while visiting the Monument. 

Water Flow and Water Levels

Please visit this website for current flow and river conditions: 

waterdata.usgs.gov

Locations to search:

• Fort Benton, Montana (River Mile 0)

• Virgelle, Montana (River Mile 39)

• Landusky, Montana (River Mile 149)

The Upper Missouri River’s flow can fluctuate between 4,000 and 

17,000 cubic feet per second (cfs) on an average year with the 

high flow usually occurring after spring runoff. While 5,000 cfs is 

considered to be “low-water,” it is still floatable via paddle craft. The 

river is reasonably calm with no discernable rapids throughout the 

Monument.

Float Distances and Times

Float times can be extended or shortened depending on 

a variety of factors such as weather, hikes, and camping 

opportunities. Days are included only to give you a gauge as 

to what visitors typically travel.

River Reach River Mile Time

Fort Benton to 

Wood Bottom 0 - 20.3 1 day

Wood Bottom to 

Coal Banks Landing 20.3 - 41.5 1 day

Coal Banks Landing 

to Judith Landing 41.5 - 88.5 3-4 days

Judith Landing 

to James Kipp 

Recreation Area

88.5 - 149 4-5 days
9

Access

Public access sites to the Upper Missouri River are limited, so you 

need to plan ahead as to where you will put-in and take-out. Private 

landowners along the river are able to enter the river from their own 

land, but visitors must use the developed public access sites. 

Principal launch points are: 

• Fort Benton Canoe Launch (River Mile 0)

• Fort Benton Motorboat Launch (River Mile 0)

• Wood Bottom (River Mile 20.3)

• Coal Banks Landing (River Mile 41.5)

• Judith Landing (River Mile 88.5)

• James Kipp Recreation Area (River Mile 149)

Additional launch opportunities at Virgelle Ferry (River Mile 39.1) and 

McClelland (or Stafford) Ferry (River Mile 101.8) make trips of various 

lengths possible. 

Many boaters choose commercial services to either shuttle their 

vehicle or bring themselves, their boats and gear back from take-out 

locations to their launch point. You can find out about these shuttle 

services at the Upper Missouri Breaks Interpretive Center, Fort 

Benton with contact information located at the end of this guide. Cars 

can be parked in unattended lots at each of the public launch/take-out 

locations. 

Local gateway communities of Fort Benton, Loma, Big Sandy, 

and Winifred all welcome visitors and are good places to find local 

knowledge of the Breaks or to explore on your own. Each community 

has food, fuel, and lodging available. 

Party Size

The size of your party may enhance or alter your plans for your river 

trip due to campsite availability. From June 15 to August 1, groups 

larger than 20 can launch only on Wednesday, Thursday, or Friday. 

Groups larger than 30 must obtain a Special Recreation Permit. For 

organized groups, a Letter of Agreement should be obtained to help 

track your trip.
10

Permits and Registration 

The Upper Missouri River does not have an allocation for river use, 

but does requires a permit and payment of river fees. Fees are 

required for day use and overnight floats from Coal Banks Landing 

to James Kipp Recreation Area. These fees are usually paid before 

your trip so you have the stub as your receipt and proof of your permit 

which may be requested by any BLM employee. Payment can be 

made at the Missouri Breaks Interpretive Center, Coal Banks Landing, 

Judith Landing and James Kipp Recreation Area. Please contact us or 

our webpage for current fee amounts. 

If you launch from Fort Benton Canoe Camp, Fort Benton Motorboat 

Launch or Wood Bottom, you can always stop at one of other 

locations to make payment and obtain your permit. For your own 

safety, the BLM encourages you to register your party prior to your 

trip. Self-registration boxes are located at Fort Benton Canoe Launch, 

Missouri Breaks Interpretive Center, Fort Benton Motorboat Launch, 

Wood Bottom, Coal Banks Landing, Judith Landing, and James Kipp 

Recreation Area. You may be approached by BLM employees or 

volunteers at popular launch and exit points who gather information 

about party size and camping use.

Potable Water

The only potable water supply is at Coal Banks Landing (mile 41.5) 

and James Kipp Recreation Area (mile 149). We recommend that you 

bring adequate drinking and cooking water (one gallon per person 

per day). The water wells at Coal Banks Landing and James Kipp 

Recreation Area are tested monthly during the recreation season to 

ensure the water is suitable for drinking. 
11

Camping Opportunities

Some camping areas are much more popular than others, especially 

sites such as McGarry Bar and Gist Bottom. These are places 

where fellow floaters will likely be spending the evening. Please be 

respectful. You can find a description of these major sites in the map 

section of this guide. 

Camp on durable surfaces such as established campsites, sand, or 

gravel. If you are part of a larger group, do your best to concentrate 

your tents, leaving room for others. Avoid spreading out your party 

along the bank and occupying all the best available spaces. 

Be aware that venomous rattlesnakes inhabit the area. If you see a 

snake, step away from it slowly. In addition, be cautious of cottonwood 

trees as they are comprised of soft wood and limbs from aged trees 

can break without warning. For your safety, don’t sleep within five feet 

of overhanging cottonwood limbs. 
12

Four types of camping opportunities are available along the Upper 

Missouri: 

• Developed Public Access Sites and Campgrounds: These 

sites are accessible by road with a full range of developments that 

may include parking lots, boat ramps, vault toilets, campsites for 

tents and RVs, and picnic facilities. 

These sites include Fort Benton Canoe Camp, Fort Benton Boat 

Ramp, Wood Bottom, Decision Point, Coal Banks Landing, Judith 

Landing, Lower Woodhawk, and James Kipp Recreation Area. 

• Developed Boat Camps: These sites are accessible to the public 

only by boat. The sites contain vault toilets, metal fire rings and 

some have open-air shelters.

These campsites are Little Sandy, Lonetree Coulee, Eagle Creek, 

Hole-in-the-Wall, and Slaughter River.

• Primitive Boat Camps: These sites are accessible only by boat 

and contain a metal fire ring and occasionally a fence exclosure to 

prevent cattle from entering. There are no other developments.

These sites include Evans Bend, Senieurs Reach, Black Bluff Rapids, 

Dark Butte, Pablo Rapids, The Wall, McGarry Bar, Gist Bottom, Upper 

Woodhawk and Hideaway. 

James Kipp Recreation Area
13

• Dispersed Public Land: In addition to the developed sites 

described above, camping is permissible on any of the 90,000 

acres of public land adjacent to the river. Absence of development 

allows opportunities for those seeking a completely primitive 

experience. The best campsites are found, not made. If you 

choose to camp on dispersed land, take special care to leave it 

exactly as you found it. Please do not build new fire rings; use a 

camp stove instead. If a fire ring exists, you may use it, but the 

idea is to use dispersed land in such a way that your presence is 

not detectable by the next visitor who discovers the site. In order 

to preserve these primitive camping experiences, we need your 

help. Please practice “Leave No Trace” camping. If you need help 

with the techniques, please give us a call or talk to one of our staff 

members prior to your trip.

Campfires

Wood is scarce in the more popular campsites, so a gas stove or 

charcoal grill is recommended. It’s a good idea to collect firewood 

during the day if you plan an evening fire (fire restrictions permitting). 

Cutting live or standing timber is not permitted; collect only “dead and 

down” wood. 

Even small fires can leave scars that last a long time. Please use 

existing fire rings. Extinguish your fire completely; drown it with 

water, stir the contents, drown again and check around the fire 

ring. The ashes should be “cool to the touch” (use the back of your 

hand to prevent damaging your palms). NEVER LEAVE A FIRE 

UNATTENDED! 

Do not leave food, plastic, or metal in a fire ring. Before your trip, 

check with any Montana BLM office to find out if fire restrictions are in 

effect and what the stages mean for you.
14

Leave No Trace! 

The Upper Missouri River Breaks National Monument practices the 

principles of “Leave No Trace.”

Leave No Trace is a principle adopted by most land management 

offices, agencies and by many private citizens throughout the country 

and the world. The foundations of this principle are simple; leave the 

area either the same or better than the way you found it. 

What this means to you: 

• If you pack it in, you must pack it out!

• Do not build, modify or alter any natural, archaeological, historical 

or any other objects or areas.

• Do not dig holes, level ground, pull or cut vegetation.

• Do not remove anything that you find, even rocks or sticks.

• Minimize campfire effects. This means no fires if there is no fire 

ring. Please don’t build fire rings if they are not present already.

• Respect wildlife, all wildlife. No harassment, feeding, or taunting.

• Do not carve, draw on, or alter sandstone or formations of any 

kind. The harm is irreparable and becomes an eyesore.

Human Waste Management

Portable toilet regulations are in effect for boaters on overnight trips 

from Fort Benton (mile 0) to the boundary of the Charles M. Russell 

National Wildlife Refuge (mile 138.8). The portable toilet must either 

be a washable, reusable toilet system or an approved degradable bag 

system specifically designed for human waste disposal. All portable 

toilet waste must be carried out of the river corridor and deposited in 

an authorized disposal facility. Vault toilets are not authorized disposal 

facilities. The washable, reusable toilet system may be serviced at 

the RV dump station in the James Kipp Recreation Area. Degradable 

waste bag systems may be disposed of in dumpsters at Coal Banks 

Landing, Judith Landing and James Kipp Recreation Area. 

Vault toilets are located at Judith Landing Recreation Area, Stafford 

Ferry, Lower Woodhawk Recreation Area, and James Kipp Recreation 

Area. We strongly recommend bringing your own supply of toilet 

paper.

Motorized Watercraft

Motorized watercraft are great ways to explore the river. Since 

1976, there have been seasonal boating restrictions on the “Wild 

& Scenic” segments of the river from June 15 to September 15. In 

the Recreational segments of the river, motorized watercraft travel 

upstream and downstream is allowed year round.

Open Recreational Segments (All Year):

• From Fort Benton to Pilot Rock (river mile 0-52)

• From Deadman Rapids to Holmes Council Island (river mile 84.5-

92.5)
15

Seasonally Restricted Wild and Scenic Segments (June 15 - 

September 15):

• Pilot Rock to Deadman Rapids (mile 52 to 84.5)

Motorized travel is only allowed downstream seven days per week 

at a no-wake speed

• Holmes Council Island to Fred Robinson Bridge (river mile 92.5-

149)

Motorized travel is allowed only downstream on Thursdays 

through Saturdays at a no-wake speed.

MOTORIZED TRAVEL IS NOT ALLOWED Sundays through 

Wednesdays.

Motorized craft are sometimes necessary to fulfill the mission of 

managing and protecting the river corridor. You may see motorized 

craft in use by law enforcement officers, river rangers, range 

specialists and research teams. These people are carrying out 

riparian area exclosure fencing and monitoring projects, conducting 

various studies as well as performing patrols and conducting 

maintenance and site improvements along the river.

If you are planning a trip with a motorboat and are unfamiliar 

with the river, please contact us at (406) 622-4000. Depending on 

water levels and the size of your boat, there are inherent dangers with 

gravel bars, rocks, and other hazards.

A “no-wake” speed is defined as a speed where no white water occurs 

in the path of the vessel or in waves created by the vessel.
16

Aquatic and Invasive Species (AIS)

Aquatic and invasive species negatively impact water bodies 

and wetlands. Their presence can cause severe damage to local 

ecosystems, industry, and tourism so we ask you to follow all Montana 

laws carefully. 

All watercraft and water-based equipment (non-motorized and 

motorized) must stop at all watercraft inspection stations encountered 

in Montana. You can be cited for driving past an inspection station if 

you are hauling or carrying a watercraft, so don’t neglect to stop. This 

includes fishing tackle, tackle boxes, waders, boots, fishing rods, nets, 

stringers, knives, etc. If anything has been in any other body of water, 

it needs to be, at a minimum: “Cleaned, drained, dried and inspected” 

before touching another waterway.

As of this printing, Montana does not have an AIS boat sticker or other 

pass requirement for boat launching.

It is your responsibility to prevent the spread of aquatic invasive 

species. With everyone’s help we can keep our waterways free of 

damaging species.

Guided Trips

An outstanding way to experience the Upper Missouri River Breaks 

National Monument is to utilize a licensed outfitter. The 2008 Upper 

Missouri River Breaks National Monument Resource Management 

Plan allows for a limit of 23 special recreation permits for commercial 

use and include boating for commercial hunting, fishing, and scenic 

and interpretive tours and floats. River outfitters rent out equipment, 

shuttle vehicles, or provide a knowledgeable guide for your trip. 

Please call us or check out our website for information about outfitters 

permitted here.

Hiking Opportunities

The public lands within the Monument boundaries offer a plethora of 

hiking opportunities that will satisfy the abilities of every visitor, from 
17

novice hiker to expert adventurer. Visitors are encouraged to explore 

the unique landscape of the Breaks terrain and to see for themselves 

the spectacles of unchanged “visionary inchantment” so eloquently 

described by Captain Meriwether Lewis more than two hundred years 

ago. Keep in mind there are few officially marked or maintained trails 

within the Monument, so visitors must use caution and common sense 

while exploring. Please see the safety section in this guide.

Take precautions while climbing and hiking on the uplands. Sandstone 

cliffs are soft, and a fine layer of sand on surfaces makes them slick.

Other Attractions 

Fort Benton not only houses our River Management Station and 

Interpretive Center, but it is also home of a rich and long history 

and considered the “Birthplace of Montana.” It is home to a variety 

of museums highlighting the history of the area and various local 

businesses. You may find a stay here enjoyable as you plan your trip. 

Local gateway communities of Fort Benton, Loma, Big Sandy, 

and Winifred all welcome visitors and are good places to find local 

knowledge of the Breaks. Residents of these communities all have 

their own love for the landscape and its history, and may have stories 

to share. 

The Charles M. Russell Wildlife Refuge offers spectacular 

opportunities for viewing wildlife. Several species of large ungulates 

native to the area are often visible. A short distance down river from 

James Kipp Recreation Area is the “Slippery Ann” elk viewing area, 

considered one of the premier elk viewing sites in the state. In the late 

summer and early fall, vast herds of elk can be observed in the river 

bottoms adjacent to the roads in designated elk viewing areas. To get 

there, drive north from James Kipp Recreation Area on US 191. After 

crossing the Fred Robinson Bridge, travel approximately one mile 

and turn right (east) on CMR Refuge Road 101 (Auto Tour Route). 

Proceed just over five miles to the beginning of the “Slippery Ann” elk 

viewing area. 

Interpretive signs along the route provide education and enhance 

the journey, offering visitors a glimpse of the past and featuring 

wildlife in their native habitat. The CMR Wildlife Refuge has an 

extensive continuation of roads and trails that offer incredible viewing 

opportunities of the Refuge, river and the Breaks. 
18

In addition to the amazing opportunities and adventures to be had 

on the water, endless recreation opportunities abound in the uplands 

above the river bottom. There are several roads within the Monument 

that lead to amazing vistas, off-the-beaten-path homesteads, endless 

hiking and orienteering experiences, water and glacially scoured 

plateaus, rock formations, and other tributaries to the Missouri. Maps 

are available at select locations and are paramount to a safe and 

enjoyable experience.

Just north of the James Kipp Recreation Area and the CMR Wildlife 

Refuge is the intersection of Highways 191 and 66. Driving west on 

Highway 66 takes you into the Little Rocky Mountains and several 

different types of recreational opportunities. A quick drive up to the 

small community of Hays on the Fort Belknap Reservation will bring 

you to Mission Canyon and Natural Bridge areas. These areas are 

administered by the Fort Belknap Reservation and are very sacred 

to the tribe. Please treat their lands with the same respect as you 

would your own. There are also large areas of BLM and State land 

interspersed throughout the Fort Belknap area. 

There are also several recreational opportunities south of James Kipp 

Recreation Area. The Judith Mountains are managed primarily by the 

BLM and offer great camping, hiking, biking and hunting opportunities. 

Be sure to stop at the small towns in the area to find information on 

things to do. 
19

Safety Considerations

The Upper Missouri River has Class I rapids that are defined as easy, 

fast moving with riffles and small waves, few obstructions, easily 

avoided, low risk and easy self-rescue. However, you should plan 

carefully to ensure a safe, enjoyable trip. 

As you think about the proper precautions to take on the water, also 

plan for safety on land to mitigate for rugged terrain, snakes, insects, 

and spiny plants. 

Flotation Devices

Approved personal flotation devices are required for every boater. 

Children under 12 must wear a life vest at all times.

Clothing and Gear

Tennis shoes, water sandals, river shoes or rubber boots are desirable 

for wear in watercraft, but hiking boots will make exploring shoreline 

areas easier. Other necessities include a shade hat, long-sleeve shirt, 

long pants, rain gear, jacket, sunscreen, sunglasses, first-aid kit, and 

mosquito repellent. Quick dry, moisture wicking clothing materials are 

preferred; avoid cotton if you can. You might also want to consider a 

mosquito head net and a screen tent. Your gear should be stored in 

dry bags (or water-tight containers) to protect it from the elements and 

boating mishaps. 

Exposure

Exposure to heat and the narrow river valley can cause a variety of 

heat illnesses. Drink plenty of water and take frequent breaks out of 

the sun. Ensure you are taking in adequate salts through food intake 

or an electrolyte mix. Though not as common, too much water can 

flush needed nutrients out of your system and cause illness.

Do not filter or boil water from the Missouri or its tributaries to use for 

cooking or consumption. There is agricultural runoff as well as cattle 

excrement that is not removable using aforementioned processes. 

First Aid 

Carry adequate first-aid and emergency supplies. This kit should 

include enough supplies for all members of your party. 

Campfires

Even small fires can leave scars that last a long time. Please use 

existing fire rings. Make sure to extinguish your fire completely; drown 

it with water, stir the contents, drown again and check around the 

fire ring. The ashes should be “cool to the touch” (use the back of 

your hand to prevent damaging your palms). NEVER LEAVE A FIRE 

UNATTENDED! Do not leave food, plastic or metal in a fire ring. 

Before your trip, check with any Montana BLM office to find out if fire 

restrictions are in effect and what the stages mean to you.
20

Ferry Crossings 

Floaters should pay attention to the two ferry crossings on the Upper 

Missouri at Virgelle Ferry (River Mile 39.1) and Stafford-McClelland 

Ferry (River Mile 101.8). Be aware of the two low-hanging cables 

that cross the river in front of each ferry. Also, stay away from the 

upstream side of each ferry boat. The strong undercurrents they 

create can easily submerge your craft.

Communication (Cell Phones)

Cell service is not typical on the Monument or along the river corridor. 

You are encouraged to bring a satellite phone or another form of 

communication in case an emergency arises. Our expanded amenity 

sites may have available land-line phones for emergencies, but it’s 

your responsibility to ensure your own safety. The last page in this 

guide has emergency numbers for your trip.

Plants

Poison ivy is common in the Breaks and surrounding areas. Take 

precautions while walking and setting up tents. Poison ivy can cause 

hives, rash and other complications. 

Yucca plants are ubiquitous in the Breaks. Take care not to touch 

them with bare skin; the plant leaves are extremely sharp and contain 

saponins which are mild toxins that can irritate the skin and cause 

hives, irritation, and itching. 

Prickly pear cactus are found in all areas of the Breaks and will inflict 

effects similar to those caused by a Yucca plant. The spines can stick 

in and break off in your skin.

Stafford-McClelland Ferry
21

Sinkholes or Swallow Holes 

A unique hazard common to Breaks topography is the swallow hole, 

often referred to as a sinkhole. These swallow holes are natural 

caverns formed on the surface that channel water underground, 

often exiting hundreds of yards away from their starting points. These 

clay caverns sometimes get overgrown with brush and accumulate 

tumbleweeds, making them difficult for the unsuspecting traveler to 

see. They are prevalent throughout the Monument, especially in the 

more arid badlands areas. Hikers are cautioned to be cognizant of 

where they step. 

Snakes

On occasion, you may 

encounter the prairie 

rattlesnake (Crotalus 

viridis) along the Upper 

Missouri River. This 

species is native to 

this area and was 

frequently encountered 

by the Lewis & Clark 

Expedition. Unless 

provoked or surprised, 

the prairie rattlesnake 

is typically nonaggressive. Be careful 

when walking through tall vegetation, among rocky outcroppings, or 

around old homesteads. Use caution when gathering firewood.

Rattlesnakes are of course venomous, but there are also bull snakes, 

Western hognose, yellow-bellied racers, garter snakes and rubber 

boas located here which are not poisonous. Consider yourself 

privileged if you see one of these special residents. Please be 

cautious and conscientious when encountering any of these snakes. 

Step away slowly and remember that not all rattlesnakes actually 

rattle when encountered. Please do not harm these animals in any 

way. They are free rodent control!

“... on my return to camp I trod within [a] few 

inches of a rattle snake but being in motion I passed 

before he could probably put himself in a striking 

attitude and fortunately excaped his bite...”

 -Meriwether Lewis, May 26, 1805
22

Shallow Waters and Gravel Bars 

Though normally not a concern for kayakers and canoeists, gravel 

and sandbars change from season to season and can appear without 

warning due to the uniform color of the often muddy Missouri. These 

bars may present a challenge for motorized boat users so visitors are 

reminded to keep an eye out for them.

Swimming 

Swimming can be a great way to escape the heat during the summer 

months on the river, but we recommend you have a companion and 

wear a personal flotation device. The river has deceptively strong 

currents with hidden rocks and snags below the surface.

Weather

Weather is one of the most hazardous factors on the river. 

Temperatures during the floating season can range from 20 degrees 

to more than 100 degrees Fahrenheit, or about -7 degrees to more 

than 37 degrees Celsius. Be prepared for all weather conditions by 

bringing synthetic clothing that can be layered. Don’t forget sunblock, 

rain gear, a shade hat, long-sleeve shirt and pants, and a thermal 

layer. 

The combination of wet clothing and cool temperatures can cause a 

rapid loss of body heat known as hypothermia. Hypothermia can be 

deadly, so be familiar with its symptoms and treatment. Being chilled 

is an early sign to take action. Change into dry, warm clothing early 

and keep moving. Eat or drink something warm, if possible. Use your 

body’s natural systems to warm up.

The narrow canyons of the river can hide the approach of storms

until the last minute. Watch the weather both in front of and behind 

you. Sudden, violent thunderstorms can whip the river’s surface 

into dangerous whitecaps. Get off the water when you see a storm 

approaching, especially when lightning is present. Never take cover 
23

under trees. Lightning strikes are possible and wind can cause even 

stout cottonwood branches to break off. Sudden storms can also 

create flash flooding, so be sure your gear is secured, especially 

your boat and associated equipment. Be familiar with the “lightning 

position.”

Even in clear weather, moderate-to-strong winds often blow through 

the river valley. The wind may increase or decrease your travel time. 

When camping in windy conditions, be sure your tent and boat are 

tied down and secured or they can blow away. Bring extra food and 

water in case your trip duration is increased due to wind.
24

On the River

Now that you’ve planned your trip and taken into considerations safety 

precautions, we hope you’ll enjoy learning more about the river itself. 

Take note of the following information specifically associated with the 

river, its designations, history, geology, and wildlife, and enjoy what 

you see along the way.

Designations

As a designated National Wild and Scenic River within a National 

Monument, the Upper Missouri has three different classifications 

that are generally based on shoreline development. The three 

classifications are: Wild, Scenic, and Recreational.

● Wild - sections that are generally inaccessible except by trail, 

with watersheds or shorelines essentially primitive and waters 

unpolluted. The Wild sections of the river are from River Miles 

52 to 84.5, 92.5 to 99.5, and 104.5 to 128.5 and constitute 64 

total miles. The Scenic sections of the river are from River Miles 

99 to 104 and 128.5 to 149 and constitute 26 total miles. This 

section primarily covers most of the Judith Landing to James Kipp 

Recreation Area.

● Scenic - sections with shorelines or watersheds still largely 

primitive and shorelines or watersheds still largely primitive and 

shorelines largely undeveloped, but accessible in places by roads. 

● Recreational - sections that are readily accessible by road or 

railroad that may have some development along their shorelines. 

The Recreational sections of the river are from miles 0 to 52 and 

84.5 to 92.5 and constitute 59 total miles. 

The Upper Missouri is unique in the Wild and Scenic River system 

with boundaries from Coal Banks Landing to James Kipp Recreation 

Area ranging from “rim-to-rim” rather than the standard quarter mile 

from either shoreline. The boundary from Fort Benton to Coal Banks 

is from “bank-to-bank,” or a standard quarter mile. 
25

Boating and River Etiquette

Sounds of Silence

The Upper Missouri is one of the few places where one hears few 

sounds of human activity. Many people return to the Upper Missouri 

just to experience the joy of hearing only the sound of nature. When 

floating the river, please be respectful of others who are trying to listen 

to these natural sounds. In campsites, keep your conversations and 

revelry under control, especially after dark. Here, silence is golden. 

Leave the Bluetooth speakers at home. The sounds of nature are 

often sublime. By being quiet, you’ll hear more, not less.

Respect for Private Land 

Much of the land adjacent to the river on the Upper Missouri is 

privately owned. You must obtain landowner permission before 

entering private property for any activity, even hiking. Know where 

you are on the river by using the maps in this guide. Please respect 

private land and property rights. Trespassing is against the law.

Grazing Cattle

Private landowners commonly utilize their land for grazing, and they 

have also acquired grazing permits for their cattle on State of Montana 

land and BLM land. Livestock grazing is allowed on public land within 

the Monument, so do not be surprised if you see cattle by the river or 

near campgrounds, even in the sections designated as Wild. Some 

campgrounds, such as Eagle Creek and Little Sandy are on private 

land and leased for public use through access easements.

Non-Native Invasive Weeds

Noxious weeds dominate many areas in the West. Once they’re 

established, they can take over and completely change the character 

of an area in a few short years. Help us keep the Upper Missouri 

River as free as possible from noxious weeds by learning to recognize 

invasive plants.

Invasive weeds opportunistically hitchhike to an area any way they 

can. Check your vehicle, clothing, shoes and even your pet for weed 

seeds before and after visiting the area. Some aquatic invasive 

species can survive two weeks on dry land, so be careful about 
26

transporting wet equipment in and out of the Monument. Do your best 

to clean and dry equipment that comes in contact with water.

It is your responsibility to stop the spread of invasive species. Please 

do your part. Clean and inspect all of your items no matter how small.

Respect for Cultural Resources

A remarkable attraction of the Upper Missouri is the visible presence 

of remnants of a fascinating cultural history. It’s the responsibility of 

every visitor to protect our common history. Please do not touch or 

move any of the historic features you encounter. These features might 

be as modest as circles of small stones that once held down Native 

American tipis; however, they are culturally valuable. Native American 

rock art (petroglyphs) are particularly fragile, degraded even by the 

oil on our hands, so please do not touch them. Old homestead sites 

abound, and you are welcome to explore these on public lands, but 

please do not displace any of the old tools, boards or remnants of this 

remarkable homesteading era. Simply moving something diminishes 

its historical context. Please be aware there may be some hazards 

associated with these sites such as loose boards, bats, snakes, nails 

and rusty metal, lead paints, etc.

Wildlife and Plants

Observe wildlife from a distance. Remember, you’re visiting their 

home, so please be a respectful guest. Do not approach, follow, stalk 

or feed the wildlife. 

Birds use the islands in the Missouri River for nesting. Avoid 

disturbing them and do not camp on the islands between April 1 

and July 31.

Enjoy, but please don’t pick vegetation. Native plants add to the 

scenery, are a food source for wildlife and a seed source for 

regeneration.

Hagadone Homestead
27

Fun and Memories

Above all else, be sure to have fun, make memories, and “take only 

photos and leave only footprints.” The Upper Missouri River Breaks 

National Monument is an amazing place just waiting to be discovered 

by you. This is a place where you can actively imagine you are the 

first human to step foot in the area, or to see a unique rock formation. 

A place where nature and history transcend time and the flow of true 

freedom is unimpeded by modern technology. The memories you 

make here will undoubtedly stay with you throughout your life and 

hopefully inspire others to take their own journey through this time 

capsule. 
28

Missouri River Natural History:

Cottonwoods and Islands

Prior to the construction of major dams on the Missouri River, major 

spring floods would reform river channels and create new islands and 

gravel bars. The big floods of 1908, 1953 and 1964 left lasting legacies of 

transformed stream sides and riparian vegetation. The “bank building” 

action from the floods would create cottonwood seedbeds high above 

the river’s “normal” water level which kept winter ice jams from slicing 

off the young seedlings in subsequent years. 

The condition of riparian vegetation is of vital concern to managers 

and visitors to the Upper Missouri, since it provides habitat for wildlife, 

regulates ecological functions, controls bank erosion and provides 

beauty and shade to visitors. In addition to the plains cottonwood trees 

(Populus deltoides), other important plants provide food and shelter 

for wildlife. Willows, green ash, boxelder, snowberry, silver sagebrush, 

Woods’ rose, and red-osier dogwood are important woody species, and 

cattail, bulrush, and sedges provide cover for waterfowl, amphibians 

and small mammals. 

During the steamboat era after the 

Civil War, “woodhawkers” sold 

cords of wood along the river to 

steamboat captains to fuel their 

boilers. Although a significant 

proportion of cottonwood was 

cut for the steamboats, much of 

the floodplain had recovered its 

potential to grow cottonwood by 

the mid-20th century. Recent flood 

control measures, however, have 

severely limited opportunities 

for cottonwood regeneration, 

and young replacement stands 

of cottonwoods are relatively rare. In addition, cottonwood trees are 

commonly targeted by beavers, and you will likely see plentiful signs of 

beaver activity along the river. 
29

Cottonwood Restoration Efforts

Have you seen some young cottonwoods behind wire between Coal 

Banks Landing and Boiler Bottom? Those trees are part of an ongoing 

restoration project started in 2014 by the BLM, Friends of the Missouri 

Breaks National Monument, and local volunteers. 

Because cottonwood seeds are very small and do not tolerate shade, 

they need fresh sediment deposits to germinate. These deposits are 

often formed either at the deltas of tributary streams such as Arrow 

Creek or the Judith River, or following high flood events. The seeds 

also need access to the water table but be above the ice scour line... a 

difficult balance to find in today’s river. 

You might see some interns or volunteers using pumps and hose to 

water newly planted cottonwoods. Although these trees are planted 

6-7 feet deep, many are still a few feet above the low summer water 

table. Watering them through plastic PVC tubes encourages the roots 

to grow deep and assures a higher survival rate (up to 80 percent).

You can help, too. Use the buckets placed at many of the campground 

restrooms to haul a little water to the trees.
30

The Missouri Breaks, a Living Museum

The Upper Missouri region is an area of extreme contrasts – from 

the wide, fertile valley near Fort Benton to the scenic White Cliffs 

downriver from Coal Banks Landing. The dramatic, rugged badlands 

below Judith Landing add yet another kind of vista to the Central 

Montana scenery. The wildlife viewing possibilities are endless; from 

numerous species of birds, mice, rabbits, turkeys, snakes, deer, elk, 

bighorn sheep, eagles, hawks, owls, osprey, coyotes, foxes, raccoons, 

sometimes even bears. 

The Upper Missouri’s geology, vegetation and wildlife make it a living 

museum.

Geology

Geologically, the land was originally laid down in horizontal layers, 

the sediment and shorelines of a great inland sea that once covered 

most of the Great Plains. These layers have since undergone a 

transformation – folded, faulted, uplifted, modified by red-hot volcanic 

activity and gouged and cooled by glaciers. This powerful mix, with 

constant erosion added, created the land known as “the Breaks.” The 

word “breaks” is a geographical reference to describe landforms that 

erode or break away from uplands to the river bed below and thought 

to have been coined by F.V. Hayden during the initial geologic survey 

of this area in the 1850s.

Vegetation

The vegetation adds to the diversity along the river. Large groves of 

cottonwood, ash, box elder, willow, and an understory of wild rose and 
31

snowberry hug the riverbanks. The river terraces, bottom lands and 

valley slopes support mostly sagebrush and grass. High shale cliffs, 

where the river still slices into the valley slopes, are mostly devoid of 

vegetation. The cottonwood groves diminish after Judith Landing, and 

the conifers – ponderosa and limber pine, Douglas fir and juniper – 

begin to appear in the side coulees (drainages) and along the valley 

slopes. The lower reach of the Judith River, just above its confluence 

with the Missouri, contains one of the few remaining fully functioning 

cottonwood gallery forest ecosystems on the Northern Plains.

Wildlife

The varied vegetation provides habitat for an array of wildlife. Most 

of the 60 species of mammals, 233 species of birds and 20 species 

of amphibians and reptiles in the Upper Missouri River valley are 

dependent in one way or another on the riparian zone – the area of 

green plants along the river. The most common inhabitants are mule 

and white-tailed deer, non-native pheasant, waterfowl and raptors. 

Prairie dogs, greater sage-grouse and pronghorn live on the plains 

above the valley. You also might catch a glimpse of elk or bighorn 

sheep.

Fish

Fifty species of fish, ranging from tiny minnows (weighing a halfounce) to immense paddlefish (which can grow to 140 pounds) reside 

in the river. Most of the native fish observed by Lewis and Clark are 

still found here today and include six Montana Species of Concern; 

pallid sturgeon, blue sucker, paddlefish, sauger, sicklefin chub and 

sturgeon chub. The pallid sturgeon is a federally listed endangered 

species. It is protected under the Endangered Species Act of 1973 

and if caught must be returned immediately to the water. Anglers are 

required to have a special tag to fish for paddlefish, another unusual 

native fish species. Other native species found here include goldeye, 

sauger, channel catfish, freshwater drum/sheepshead and shovelnose 

sturgeon. Non-native smallmouth bass, walleye and northern pike 

are also frequently caught. We work closely with Montana Fish 

and Wildlife and Parks to help protect these species. *See current 

Montana fishing regulations for details regarding fish identification and 

regulations.

“While I viewed these mountains I felt a secret 

pleasure in finding myself so near the head of the 

heretofore conceived boundless Missouri; but when 

I reflected on the difficulties which this snowey 

barrier would most probably throw in my way 

to the Pacific, and the sufferings and hardships 

of myself and party in thim, it in some measure 

counterballanced the joy I had felt in the first 

moments in which I gazed on them;”

Meriwether Lewis, May 26, 1805
32

The People

Human occupation of the Upper Missouri River Breaks began more 

than 12,000 years ago. The area was part of the homeland or hunting 

grounds of numerous native peoples until around 1900, when EuroAmerican expansion reached its zenith.

The Upper Missouri 

was occupied by the 

Blackfeet, Nakoda 

(Assiniboine), White Clay 

(Gros Ventre), Crow, 

Plains Ojibwa and Cree 

nations. The region 

was also frequented 

for buffalo hunting by 

the Lakota, Mandan, 

Arikara and Hidatsa 

from the eastern plains 

and from the west by 

the Kootenai, Salish, 

Niimiipuu (Nez Perce), 

Kalispel and Shoshone. 

Their occupation of this 

area is evidenced by 

religious sites, burial 

sites, pictographs, 

petroglyphs, riverside 

habitation sites, tipi rings, 

rock cairns, buffalo jumps 

and corrals. Again, please 

be respectful of the 

remnants of these special 

places; they are sacred to 

many people.

Lewis and Clark followed much of the Upper Missouri River on their 

historic westward exploration in 1805-06. Today, the Upper Missouri 

is part of the Lewis and Clark National Historic Trail. The Corps of 

Discovery followed the Missouri from St. Louis to one of its sources in 

the foothills of the Rocky Mountains of southwest Montana. The Corps 

traveled the wild and scenic portion of the river westward (upstream) 

in May and June of 1805. On May 26, 1805, while hiking above 

present-day Bullwhacker Creek, Captain Clark wrote, “From this point 

I beheld the Rocky Mountains for the first time with Certainty....”

After failing to discover a northwest water passage to the Pacific 

Ocean and spending the winter at the mouth of the Columbia River, 

the Corps came back through Montana in the summer of 1806 on 

its way home. The explorers parted ways for awhile; Lewis and a 

small party traveled back down the Missouri, while Clark explored 

the Yellowstone River to the south. Today’s travelers can camp in the 

same places as the Corps and easily visualize the scenes described 

in the expedition journals.

Fur traders quickly followed Lewis and Clark’s route, and forts, both 

trading and military, began to appear along the river. The fur trade 

NORTHWESTERN UNIVERSITY LIBRARY, EDWARD S. CURTIS

NORTHWESTERN UNIVERSITY LIBRARY, EDWARD S. CURTIS
33

spawned the first extensive use of the Missouri River as a road 

through this wild country. Keelboats, mackinaws, bullboats and 

canoes plied the upper river for the next two decades, bringing trade 

items and returning east with a wealth of furs. Steamboats followed 

in 1831, reaching Fort Union on the eastern border of Montana the 

next year. Steamboats reached Fort Benton in 1860, and river traffic 

swelled after gold was discovered in the area a short time later. In 

1866, the Luella carried 2.5 tons of gold dust down the Missouri. 

Valued at $1.25 million, it was the richest cargo ever to go down 

the river. The colorful steamboat period on the Upper Missouri 

ended when the railroad punched through the countryside, and dam 

construction began. 

Settlers began arriving after the Civil War. By 1916, almost every 

bottom along the river with enough level ground to farm had been 

settled. But farming along the Missouri was a rough way to earn 

a living. Drought, grasshoppers, poor soils, extreme weather and 

isolation forced many settlers to give up their farms and move on. 

Their shacks and cabins stand along the river in somber testimony of 

dreams that were not meant to be. 

UNIVERSITY OF SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA ON BEHALF OF THE USC SPECIAL COLLECTIONS
34

Today’s residents take special care of their ranchlands along the 

Upper Missouri River based on their longstanding appreciation for the 

land and the communities where they live. A special program entitled 

“Undaunted Stewardship” began in 2002 in anticipation of the Lewis 

and Clark Bicentennial to foster sustainable management of family 

ranches.

Undaunted Stewardship extends even beyond the Upper Missouri 

River, working as a statewide partnership involving 19 agricultural 

and conservation groups in Montana. It is managed and directed by 

Montana State University, the Montana Stockgrowers Association 

and BLM. To help preserve historic sites and encourage sustainable 

stewardship on private rangelands, Undaunted Stewardship certifies 

farms and ranches that use state-of-the-science land management 

practices. These Undaunted Land Stewards protect the long-term 

health and productivity of Montana’s natural resources, preserving 

historic sites and finding ways to share them with the public. 

Nelson Homestead
35

“The air is so pure in this open country that 

moutains and other elivated objects appear much 

nearer than they really are; these mountains do not 

appear to be further than 15 M.” 

Meriwether Lewis, May 24, 1805

On-Site Management

You will likely meet park rangers, law enforcement rangers and other 

BLM employees during your trip on the Upper Missouri River. BLM 

park rangers provide information to visitors, record registrations, 

assist with search-and-rescue operations, conduct maintenance and 

a variety of other tasks. They are there to serve you. At launch sites, 

seasonal workers and trained volunteers will help you prepare for your 

trip. They know the Upper Missouri River well and will be happy to 

answer any questions you might have.
36

Native Peoples

To the first Euro-American 

visitors, the native groups 

of this region shared many 

cultural traits. These traits 

included high mobility, 

dependence on horsemounted bison hunting, 

similar material culture 

and religious practices, and 

a common sign language 

in spite of many spoken 

languages and dialects. 

T h e I n d i a n N a t i o n s 

inhabiting the region during 

the 19th century included 

the Pikanii (Blackfeet), 

A’aninin or White Clay 

(Gros Ventre), Nakoda 

(Assiniboine), Apsaalooke 

(Crow) and Plains Ojibwa 

and Cree. The area was 

also frequented for buffalo 

hunting and raiding by the 

Lakota, Mandan, Arikara, Hidatsa and Michif from the east and from 

the west by the Kootenai, Salish, Kalispel, Shoshone and Niimiipuu 

(Nez Perce) Nations. 

Battle of Cow Island Landing

Cow Island Landing was the location of a September 23-24, 1877, encounter 

between warriors belonging to five non-treaty Nez Perce bands and a 

small party of entrenched U.S. Army soldiers and civilian freight clerks. 

The clash occurred during the 1877 Nez Perce War, at the Cow Creek 

Landing which was then a commercial freight depot and landing located 

immediately above the mouth of Cow Creek on the Missouri River. The 

landing was constructed to enable overland shipping to Fort Benton during 

seasonal low water on the Missouri via the Cow Creek freight trail, which 

commenced at the landing. Two steamboats had recently unloaded freight, 

and a detachment of soldiers under Sergeant William Moelchert happened 

to be at the landing to retrieve supplies for engineers working upriver. 

On September 23, the Nez Perce unexpectedly crossed the Missouri 

River near the landing. Negotiations ensued between Nez Perce leaders 

and Moelchert regarding supplies sought by the Nez Perce. After 

Moelchert essentially denied the tribal requests for provisions, warriors 

opened fire on the soldiers and civilians. The soldiers and clerks took 

shelter in an irrigation ditch that had been recently dug around the 

clerks’ tents and effectively defended their position through the night 

from Nez Perce gunfire from the steep hills north of the landing. 

NORTHWESTERN UNIVERSITY LIBRARY, 

EDWARD S. CURTIS

NORTHWESTERN UNIVERSITY LIBRARY, 

EDWARD S. CURTIS
37

The Nez Perce took supplies from the tons of freight stored just north of 

the landing and camp and burned the remaining stores. The Nez Perce 

broke off the assault the following morning and resumed their trek north 

through Cow Creek Canyon in their attempt to reach refuge in Canada.

Approximately 70 miles from the river to the north, near presentday Chinook, Montana, is Bears Paw Battlefield where Chief Joseph 

surrendered on October 5, 1877, and is famed to have said, “Tell General 

Howard I know his heart. What he told me before, I have it in my heart. I 

am tired of fighting. Our Chiefs are killed; Looking Glass is dead, Ta Hool 

Hool Shute is dead. The old men are all dead. It is the young men who say 

yes or no. He who led on the young men is dead. It is cold, and we have 

no blankets; the little children are freezing to death. My people, some of 

them, have run away to the hills, and have no blankets, no food. No one 

knows where they are - perhaps freezing to death. I want to have time to 

look for my children, and see how many of them I can find. Maybe I shall 

find them among the dead. Hear me, my Chiefs! I am tired; my heart is 

sick and sad. From where the sun now stands I will fight no more forever.” 

This national historic battlefield is managed by the National Park Service.

The mouth of Cow Creek may be seen just beyond the 

steamboat in the picture, taken in 1880 by the great 

documentary photographer Frank Haynes. Cow Creek comes 

in from the north, and only in the spring or flood time does it 

contain any water. The stream appearing in the distance, as 

indicated by the brush, is Bull Creek. Cow Island itself is not 

shown in the picture, but is down the river a short distance. 

Haynes took the picture from the west, looking toward the 

east, or downriver.” Soldiers are in the lower right side of 

the image, likely engineers completing the wing dam at Cow 

Island between 1877-1880. Photo by F.J. Haynes, 1880, from 

the Montana Historical Society.
38

Map Legend

ROADS

Other

Paved

0.5 0.25 0 0.5 1

Miles

1 0.5 0 1

Kilometers

Scale 1:24,000

Even though ever effort is made to depict the road network and other features

as accurately as possible, the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) cannot

guarantee road classification and/or positional accuracy of roads and other

features in all cases. No warranty is made by the BLM for use of this data for

purposes not intended by BLM.

Cottonwood Stands

BLM Office

!R! Fire Ring

!]

Lewis & Clark Campsites

!| Canoe Launch

!y Motorized Boat Launch

Developed Public Access !9 and Campground

!9 Developed Boat Camp

!9 Primitive Boat Camp

# Point of Interest

BLM - Upper Missouri River

Breaks National Monument

BLM - Outside the Monument

Indian Reservation

USFWS National Wildlife Refuge

State of Montana

Private

Upper Missouri National

Wild and Scenic River

Scenic and Access Easement

Wild and Scenic Boundary

Township/Range

Section

40-Foot Interval Contour

River Mile

Perennial Stream

Intermittent Stream
39

INSERT MAP: JLKipp Foldout 1
40
41

INSERT MAP: JLKipp Foldout 2
42
43

Lower River Section

Judith Landing to James Kipp Recreation Area 

(River Miles 88.5 to 149)

Between here and James Kipp Recreation Area, the river has 

sections classified as Wild, Scenic and Recreational. The Wild & 

Scenic River boundary extends from rim to rim through river 

mile 139. Most of the adjacent land in this segment of the river 

is public land, but it is your responsibility to know where you 

are. Remember, any use of private property requires permission 

from the landowner. This area is most popular with boaters 

looking for a less-traveled, remote atmosphere and hunters in 

the fall seeking world class big game hunting. By canoe, this trip 

can take two nights and three days, but we highly encourage 

visitors to take more time and enjoy the solitude and unlimited 

hiking opportunities for a four-day float. See “Use of Motorized 

Watercraft” for information on seasonal motorboat restrictions. 

No potable water is available until the take-out at James Kipp 

Recreation Area.

Judith Landing Historic District 

(River Miles 84.5 - 92.8)

Upstream from the public access site at river mile 84.5 and 

downstream to river mile 92.8 is the Judith Landing Historic 

District, which was listed in the National Register of Historic 

Places on December 6, 1975. This is one of the few areas that 

contain all threads of man’s history on the Montana plains. Among 

many events identified within this 15 square mile district include:

• Corp of Discovery Campsite, May 28, 1805. Lewis’ dog saved 

his and Clark’s lives when a frightened bull buffalo almost ran 

them over as they slept.

• Fort Chardon Trading Post, 1844-1845. Third fur trading 

post established by the American Fur Company along the Upper 

Missouri after the massacre of Blackfeet Indians and the burning 

of Fort Mackenzie.

• Blackfeet-Flathead Council of 1846 and Isaac Stevens “Lame 

Bull” Treaty of 1855, where lodges of more than 15,000 Indians 

were camped.

• Camp Cooke, 1866-1870. The first military post to protect 

the steamboat trade.

• PN Cable Ferry, 1880-1908. Reportedly, cable ends still 

remain in the river banks.

• Ferdinand Hayden, 1855. Hayden uncovered and collected 

several specimens of fossilized dinosaur bones and teeth. His 

discoveries constituted the first identified dinosaur skeletal 

remains in the Western Hemisphere.
44

River Mile

88.5 L Judith Landing Developed Public Access Site - Fee Site

Judith Landing is the primary launching point for those embarking 

on a three-to-five day adventure on the lower stretch of the Upper 

Missouri River to the James Kipp Recreation Area, located within 

the boundaries of the Charles M. Russell Wildlife Refuge. This is also 

the common take-out point for many boaters coming through the 

White Cliffs section of the Upper Missouri River. Judith Landing is 

accessible by highway through Big Sandy or Winifred. Its facilities 

include a campground with tent and RV camping, picnic tables, 

improved boat ramp, a BLM contact station, two vault toilets, and 

trash receptacle. The BLM has a five-month lease for public access to 

the site from May 15 to October 15. Between October 16 and May 14, 

permission to camp and/or park vehicles at this site is required from 

the landowner. Free access to the boat launch is available year round. 

86-89 P-N Ranch

Upstream from the public access site at river mile 86 and downstream 

to river mile 89, on the right side of the river is a long stretch of 

private land with both immature and mature cottonwoods. This 

area is synonymous with the Powers-Norris (P-Lazy-N) brand, and 

was part of a large, open-range cattle spread founded by T.C. Power, 

merchant prince of Fort Benton, and John Norris, who managed the 

ranch for the company. 

89.0 Council Island

Named for the 1855 Blackfeet Treaty of Fort Benton which was 

signed on the north side of the river near here; also known as Lame 

Bull’s Treaty in which the various bands of the Pikanii (Blackfeet) and 

A’aninin (Gros Ventre) Nations signed their first of many treaties with 

the U.S. Government. 

At Council Island, Nations signed the first of many treaties with 

the U.S. Government. Members of the Salish, Kootenai, Pend 

d’Oreille and Niimiipuu (Nez Perce) Nations were also present as 

third party members in an attempt to bring an end to the intertribal warfare so prevalent in the bison-rich territory claimed by 

the Blackfeet Confederacy. Washington Territory Governor Isaac 

Stevens presided over the gathering which resulted in “permanent” 

federally recognized establishment of the Blackfeet homeland and 

promises of peaceful existence with the other Nations using the 

area for seasonal hunting forays. 
45

!y

!9

!|

87

89

86

88

T 23 N R 16 E

T 23 N R 17 E

23

24

26

25

22 27

6

109°37'30"W

109°37'30"W

109°39'0"W

109°39'0"W

109°40'30"W

109°40'30"W

47°43'30"N

47°43'30"N

47°45'0"N

Ü

Judith Landing

Developed Public

Access Site

and Campground

May 28, 1805

Chip Creek

JUDITH LANDING

PN ROAD

Judith River

Council Island

Judith River
46

River Mile

90.0 R Dog Creek South Wilderness Study Area (WSA)

From this point on the right downriver to mile 96, this WSA 

encompasses approximately 5,150 acres. 

90.8 R Murray Dugout

Most of the physical 

evidence of George 

and Anna Murray’s 

homestead (settled in 

1920) has disappeared. 

The remaining dugout 

represents only a small 

part of the story of this 

homestead. It was the 

refrigerator of the era. 

The settlers cut ice from 

the river during the winter, stored it in these underground vaults and 

covered it with sawdust. The ice often lasted through the hottest of 

summers. 

91.8 Holmes Rapids/Holmes Council Islands

The rapids and the group of islands immediately downriver 

are named after the head boatman of the Stevens 1855 Council 

Expedition. They proved to be a minor obstacle to steamboat 

navigation.

91.9 L Stafford Wilderness Study Area (WSA)

From this point on the left downriver to mile 101, this WSA 

encompasses approximately 4,800 acres.

92.5 The Wild Designation begins

From this point downstream until mile 99.5, the Upper Missouri 

River is classified as “Wild” under the Wild and Scenic Rivers 

Act. These sections are generally inaccessible except by water with 

essentially primitive shorelines. 

93.7 L O.C. Sanford Homestead

John Sanford settled here in 1925 at the age of 22 and constructed 

the buildings whose remnants are evident today. Improvements to 

the original homestead were continuous — Sanford filed for patent 

on the homestead in 1933. At that time, the site included a 16’ x 24’ 

frame house, sheep shed, corral, root house, out house, 1 3/4 miles of 

fence and 45 cultivated acres. John was married with two children; 

later additions to the house were most likely made by his son.

Wilderness Study Areas

These are public lands that have been inventoried by the BLM, under 

the authority of the Federal Land Policy and Management Act, and 

found to possess the required wilderness characteristics as defined in 

the Wilderness Act of 1964. Section 603 of FLPMA requires the BLM 

protect the wilderness values of these areas for future Congressional 

action. The monument contains six wilderness study areas.
47

93

90

92

91

94

T 23 N R 17 E

29

22

28

27

20

21

19

30

109°31'30"W 109°33'0"W

109°33'0"W

109°34'30"W

109°34'30"W

109°36'0"W

109°36'0"W

47°45'0"N

47°45'0"N

Ü

O.C. Sanford

Homestead

Murray Dugout

Birch

Creek

#

Holmes Council

Islands

#

Holmes Rapids
48

River Mile

94.2 Iron City Islands

The islands are named for the steamboat “Iron City” that arrived in 

Fort Benton on June 8, 1866. It was grounded here in the summer of 

1866 and attacked by warriors from the Lakota Nations (Sioux). 

97.0 R Hagadone Homestead

This homestead is one of the best preserved homestead complexes 

along the Missouri River and looks much as it did 100 years ago. 

It features a collection of horse-drawn farm implements, buildings 

and structures. The setting and feeling of the property are much as 

they were during the period of significance from 1918 to 1954. This 

homestead was originally settled by George Clyborne in 1918 and 

purchased by Francis (Frank) Hagadone in 1924. In 1930, Frank 

received the patent on his enlarged homestead and was here until 

1954. The BLM purchased this property in 1980 and has since listed it 

in the National Register of Historic Places.

The Hagadone Homestead presents to the visitor a glimpse into the 

life of a homesteader in the first half of the twentieth century. The 

isolation faced by Missouri River homesteaders rivaled any of those 

endured by homesteaders settling in other parts of Montana.

Please respect this homestead and leave it and its objects in the same 

condition and location that you find them.
49

96

97

95

98

94

T 23 N R 18 E

T 23 N R 17 E

23

25

27

26

24

30

31

109°27'0"W

109°31'30"W

47°43'30"N

47°45'0"N 109°27'0"W

109°28'30"W

109°28'30"W

109°30'0"W

109°30'0"W

109°31'30"W

47°43'30"N

47°45'0"N

Ü

Hagedone

Homestead

#

Iron City Islands

McKeever Rapids

Bear Rapids

Gallatin Rapids
50

River Mile

99.5 Scenic Designation

From this point downstream to river mile 104.5, this section of the 

river is classified as “Scenic” under the Wild and Scenic Rivers Act. 

These sections have shorelines that are still largely primitive and 

undeveloped but accessible in places by road.

101.8 L McClelland/Stafford Ferry and Campsite

This free, diesel-driven, steel cable ferry is operated by Blaine 

County. Worth noting, this location has a house where the 

ferry operator lives, so it may not feel as remote as other sites 

downstream. This location has a vault toilet, ample camping space 

and a fire ring. The gravel road north from here gives drivers access 

to the uplands portion of the monument and is the ending of Lloyd 

Road. The road to the south leads to Winifred.

Homesteaders Jack and Rena McClelland started the ferry in 1921. 

It was said that Jack often had to hitch up his sturdy team of horses 

to rescue motorists who braved the primitive roads. James Stafford 

of Winifred purchased the property several years later. The county 

replaced the original ferry after it was washed out in 1927 and has 

maintained the operation since. 

102.1 Dauphin Rapids

The rapids are named for Louis Dauphin, a respected hunter and 

scout who fell into the river here while accompanying Prince 

Maxmilian of Prussia and artist Karl Bodmer of Switzerland on their 

epic western journey in 1833-34. Dauphin was the favorite hunter of 

Captain Joseph LaBarge, who described him as seeming to delight 

in danger. His lack of prudence eventually led to his death in 1865 at 

the mouth of the Milk River.

In their present state, the rapids look unimposing compared to the 

major obstacle of navigation they presented in the steamboat era. 

Ships’ logs from that period recount innumerable incidents of failure 

in passing these rapids. Tow ropes and strong backs were often the 

only means of forward progress. A number of boats operated above 

the rapids for the sole purpose of relaying cargo from those that 

ended their voyage at this natural barrier.

Hiking Opportunity: Old Army Trail

This 3.5-mile round trip trail was originally built in 1869 by 

the U.S. Army to recover cargo from the wrecked steamboat 

Peter Balen. The steamboat caught fire and sank below Dauphin 

Rapids, but was carrying valuable cargo, including an expensive 

boiler.

To locate the trailhead, walk 150 yards north of the river on 

the developed road. The trail is on the west side and marked 

by a green metal gate. An interpretive kiosk provides hikers 

with more information and the trail leads up a ridge to provide 

sweeping views of the rugged uplands breaks.
51

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102

103

99

101

100

T 23 N R 18 E

T 22 N R 18 E

27

34

26

33

23

32

28

109°22'30"W

109°27'0"W

47°45'0"N

47°43'30"N 109°22'30"W 109°24'0"W

109°24'0"W

109°25'30"W

109°25'30"W 109°27'0"W

47°45'0"N

47°43'30"N

Ü

LLOYD ROAD

Old Army Trail

Little Dog Rapids

Dauphin Rapids

McClelland/Stafford

Ferry
52

River Mile

103.3 R McGarry Bar Primitive Boat Camp

This campsite, located on a grassy bottom with large shady 

cottonwood trees, provides spectacular views of the rugged breaks 

scenery. There is easy access from the river and a single metal fire 

ring. About a hundred meters or so downriver from the campsite, 

at the end of the cottonwood grove, visitors will find a brass marker 

identifying the actual campsite of the Corps of Discovery. 

103.4 R Corps of Discovery Campsite

The Expedition camped here on May 27, 1805. Clark wrote, “This 

day is verry worm- we only Saw a fiew Small herds of the big 

horn animals on the hills, and two Elk one of which We killed, we 

Camped at 2 dead top trees on the Lard Side....”

104.5 Wild Designation 

From this point downstream to river mile 128.5, this section of 

the river is classified as “Wild” under the Wild and Scenic Rivers 

Act. These sections are generally inaccessible except by water with 

essentially primitive shorelines.

NOTE: A brass marker identifies the site.
53

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107

103

106

105

104

T 2

T 23 N R 19 E

3 N R 18 E

18

19

17

20

24

109°18'0"W

109°22'30"W

47°46'30"N

47°45'0"N 109°19'30"W

109°19'30"W

109°21'0"W

109°21'0"W 109°22'30"W

47°45'0"N

Ü

LLOYD ROAD

May 27, 1805

McGarry Bar

Primitive

Boat Camp
54

River Mile

Missouri River Natural History: Wildlife

The wildlife species within the Monument are diverse, abundant 

and widespread. Of the species known to occur in the area before 

settlement, only the grizzly bear, grey wolf, bison and black-footed 

ferret no longer inhabit the Monument. The variety of vegetation 

along the river and its associated areas provides habitat for the diverse 

wildlife population. More than 60 mammals, 233 species of birds 

and 20 species of amphibians and reptiles inhabit these areas. The 

river itself is home to 48 species of fish ranging from the half-ounce 

minnow to the 140-pound paddlefish. Visitors are encouraged to 

engage in the principles of Leave No Trace and remember that they 

are truly the “visitors” to this fascinating area. Please observe wild 

creatures from a distance. 

107.0 R Hiking Opportunity: Chimney Bend Area

This area includes beautiful topography with the rocks being 

the Claggett Formation and the Judith River Formation. 

This area does not include any footpaths, but is seen more 

as a wildlife viewing opportunity, so keep your cameras and 

optics handy. At times, this vicinity seems to attract more 

than its fair share of the nimble ungulates. In February 1980, 

27 Rocky Mountain Bighorn Sheep were introduced to the 

area to replace the indigenous Audubon Bighorn Sheep that 

were hunted to extinction early in the 20th century.

109.6 L Greasewood Bottom Camping/Hiking Opportunity

On a hot, cloudless day this site offers a pleasant relief from 

the sun or a splendid place for an overnight primitive camp. 

Close to the riverbank and next to large shady cottonwood 

trees is a level, sage-covered bench ideal for tents. For the 

adventurous soul, the coulee to the northwest of the site 

offers a close-up view of some of the striking red rock cliffs 

seen sporadically throughout the river corridor.
55

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108

107

111

109

110

T 24 N R 19 E

T 23 N R 19 E

9

10

35

1

2

3

4

109°13'30"W

109°18'0"W

47°48'0"N

47°46'30"N 109°13'30"W 109°15'0"W

109°15'0"W

109°16'30"W

109°16'30"W 109°18'0"W

47°48'0"N

47°46'30"N Ü

Bighorn

Primitive Boat Camp

Chimney Bend

Box Elder Bottom

Lone Pine Rapids

Greasewood Bottom

Castle Bluff Rapids
56

River Mile

111.2 L Ervin Ridge Wilderness Study Area (WSA)

From this point downriver to mile 118.6, this WSA encompasses 

approximately 10,200 acres. 

114.2 R Corps of Discovery Campsite

The Expedition camped here on May 26, 1805. Several miles 

downriver from this site on the opposite shore in the vicinity of river 

miles 122-124, one can observe the high bluffs that Captains Lewis 

and Clark ascended during the course of their upriver trek. Lewis 

wrote, “In the after part of the day I also walked out and ascended 

the river hills which I found sufficiently fortiegueing. on arriving 

to the summit of one of the highest points in the neighbourhood 

I thought myself well repaid for any labour; as from this point I 

beheld the Rocky Mountains for the first time....” (See River Mile 

123.4 for more information.)

NOTE: A brass marker identifies the site.
57

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115

114

113

112

T 24 N R 19 E

T 24 N R 20 E

T 23 N R 19 E

T 23 N R 20 E

6

8

9

5

4

109°9'0"W

109°13'30"W

47°46'30"N

47°48'0"N 109°9'0"W

109°10'30"W

109°10'30"W

109°12'0"W

109°12'0"W

109°13'30

Ü"W

Two Trees

Primitive Boat Camp

Maupin Rapids

May 26, 1805

Bird Rapids

Cabin Rapids
58

River Mile

116.9 R Middleton Homestead

George Middleton, a frugal, lifelong bachelor, came to the breaks 

in 1913 and initially lived in a tent. He then constructed a dugout 

where he lived until 1918. He lived off the land and homesteaded in 

this bottom until the 1940s. Many other homesteads along the river 

had dugouts, cellars, or caves on their homesteads, many of which 

served as residences until cabins or houses could be built. Selling 

out in 1940, George moved first to nearby Winifred and later to 

Lewistown, Montana. Late in life, George often spoke with fondness 

of his days spent in the Breaks. George Middleton’s experience 

exemplifies the transitional living common of the homesteaders. 

Geologic History: Landforms on the Upper Missouri

The valley of the Upper Missouri is a living museum; the product 

of many events over time. The land was originally laid down in 

horizontal layers, the sediments and shorelines of a great inland 

sea that once covered most of the Great Plains. These layers have 

since been folded, faulted, uplifted, modified by volcano activity and 

sculpted by glaciers. Erosion then added to the terrain seen along 

the river today, now known as a landform called the “Breaks,” a 

term thought to have been coined by F.V. Hayden during the initial 

geologic survey of this area in the 1850s.
59

116

117

118

119

T

T 24 N R 21 E

24 N R 20 E

T

T 23 N R 21 E

23 N R 20 E

31

6

1

2

12

11

10

3

109°4'30"W

109°9'0"W

47°48'0"N

47°46'30"N 109°4'30"W 109°6'0"W

109°6'0"W

109°7'30"W

109°7'30"W 109°9'0"W

47°48'0"N

47°46'30"N

Ü

#

Sturgeon Island

Middleton

Homestead
60

River Mile

122.3 L Ervin Dugout

John Ervin, an orphan from Texas, built a two-room cabin on the 

west bank of Bullwhacker Creek in the early 1900s and lived there 

alone until he sold out in 1930. During Ervin’s tenure on the land, 

he broke only 80 acres of land, most likely because he was busy 

rounding up and breaking wild horses. By 1915, John had a herd 

of 150 horses, mainly Percheron, and was a reliable source of work 

horses for other homesteaders along the river. Aside from horses, 

he also made moonshine. Several stories exist regarding Ervin’s 

demeanor, temperament and reputation as a man not to be crossed. 

One friend, Robert Eigell described Ervin as a “thin wiry man of 

medium height” who in 1930 possessed “a full head of white hair 

and a pair of piercing blue eyes,” and “a large, walrus type mustache.” 

The BLM completed restoration of the dugout in 2009-10.

122.6 L Gist Bottom Primitive Boat Camp 

This campsite offers easy access from the river and is located under a 

grove of mature cottonwoods. You can hike a long way from here in 

several directions and see two partially restored homesteads nearby. 

The site includes a metal fire ring. 

Hiking Opportunity: Gist Bottom/Bullwhacker Creek

The extensive Bullwhacker Creek drainage offers a variety of 

hiking and exploring opportunities. A short distance from 

the campsite is an abandoned ranch last used by the Gist 

Family. The homestead was sold to the BLM in 1980 and is 

now listed in the National Register of Historic Places. Up the 

Bullwhacker Creek drainage, a large diatreme, or volcanic plug, 

exists and can be distinguished by its color contrast against the 

neighboring hills.

123.4 L Hiking Opportunity: Snake Point 

One can literally walk in the footsteps of Captain Clark and 

observe as he did, “the Rocky Mountains with certainty.” 

Clark’s route on May 26, 1805, likely traversed this vicinity. The 

high point of land he ascended is possibly in the neighborhood 

of a ridge top called Snake Point, elevation 3,126 feet (47° 49’ 

35” N/108° 58’ 18” W). 

Follow the plainly visible drainage directly north of the river 

bank at this point. Take the left fork of the three drainages 

(as you are traveling up the main drainage) and walk in the 

dry stream bed, going around the large hill that divides the 

drainage. Proceed until you see a rock column and hike up the 

low ridge that leads right up the saddle below the column. It 

is no more than an hour and about 1,000 feet to the top. There 

is no marked trail, but the ascent is clearly visible and easily 

negotiated by the experienced hiker.
61

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123

120

121

122

T 24 N R 21 E

T 23 N R 21 E

34

33

32

3

5

4

109°0'0"W

109°0'0"W

109°1'30"W

109°1'30"W

109°3'0"W

109°3'0"W

109°4'30"W

109°4'30"W

47°48'0"N

47°48'0"N

Ü

#

GIST

#

Gist Bottom

Gist Ranch

ROAD

Starting Point for

Snake Point Hike

#

Ervin Dugout Bullwhacker Creek

Little Bullwhacker Creek
62

River Mile

124.5 L Cow Creek Area of Critical Concern (ACEC)

The ACEC boundary along the river extends a short distance 

downriver to approximately river mile 125.3 but extends up the 

Cow Creek drainage encompassing 18,800 acres and a portion of 

the Nez Perce (Nee-Me-Poo) National Historic Trail, Lewis & Clark 

National Historic Trail, Cow Island Trail and parts of the Cow Creek 

Wilderness Study Area. The majority of the ACEC is public land; 

however, 4,000 acres of the creek bottom are privately owned. 

125.0 R Woodhawk Wilderness Study Area (WSA)

From this point downriver to approximately river mile 131, this 

WSA encompasses over 8,100 acres. 

126.1 L Kipp Homestead

The James Kipp homestead is located just north of the mouth of 

Cow Creek, on a terrace west of the landing site. The homestead 

was claimed by Kipp in 1913. He was the grandson of James 

Kipp, a Metis trader who helped establish Fort Union at the 

mouth of the Yellowstone in 1828 and who founded Fort Piegan 

at the mouth of the Marias River in 1831. The Kipp Homestead is 

abandoned but a cabin and outbuildings remain standing at the 

homestead site.

126.5 Nez Perce (Nee-Mee-Poo) National Historic Trail

In June 1877, the Nez Perce led by Chiefs Joseph, Looking Glass, 

Tulhuulhulsuit and Whitebird, left their homelands and set out for 

Canada to avoid being confined on a reservation and to continue to 

live by the customs and traditions of their ancestors. The trail begins 

in Oregon and follows the 1,200+ mile journey through Idaho, 

Wyoming, and finally terminates in Montana, 40 miles from the 

Canadian border. The trail crosses the Missouri River at this location.

126.5 L Cow Creek/Cow Island Landing

This sizeable tributary, at 35 miles long, provided a natural trail to 

the river through the steep surrounding country, and the solid river 

bottom created a natural ford known to native peoples for thousands 

of years. Later, explorers, trappers, traders and others used this area 

in the same manner as well as for camping, steamboat landings and 

homesteading. No permanent storehouses were erected at Cow 

Island. Once freight was offloaded here, it was tarped and remained 

only briefly before being moved to Fort Benton.

The term “woodhawk” is named for the men who set up shop on the 

banks of the Missouri to supply the steamboats with fuel-wood for 

their boilers, which consumed as many as thirty cords per day.

NOTE: This site is on private property. Landowner permission is required for access.

NOTE: This site is on private property. Landowner permission is required for access.
63

126

125

127

124

128

T 24 N R 21 E

T 24 N R 22 E

T 23 N R 21 E

T 23 N R 22 E

36

1

7

6

108°55'30"W

109°0'0"W

47°46'30"N 47°48'0"N

47°48'0"N 108°55'30"W

108°57'0"W

108°57'0"W

108°58'30"W

108°58'30"W

Ü

#

#

Cow Island

Kipp

Homestead

Cow Creek

Sunshine

Ridge

Overlook

#

Camp Ilges

Rifle Pits

Nee-Mee-Poo Trail
64

River Mile

127.8 L Camp Ilges

The U.S. Army established a small encampment here named for 

the colorful and popular Major Guido Ilges, a German immigrant 

who served in the Civil War and the Montana Indian Wars. He 

commanded the Fort Benton military post from 1875 to 1879, only 

to fall victim to bad judgment, court martial and disgrace.

Camp Ilges was used periodically from the mid-1860s through 1883 

to stockpile freight unloaded from steamboats unable to navigate 

further. Rifle pits used by soldiers to protect the freight are all that 

remain of this once bustling frontier outpost. 

128.0 Scenic Designation Begins

From this point downstream to river mile 149, this section of the 

river has a “Scenic” classification under the Wild and Scenic Rivers 

Act. These sections possess shorelines that are still largely primitive 

and undeveloped but accessible in places by road.

130.1 R Middle Woodhawk Primitive Campsite

This site is relatively difficult to find from the river because naturally 

occurring willows and cottonwoods have grown wild and thick 

after the 2011 flood. There is a metal fire ring under the mature 

cottonwood trees away from the river and the site is accessible by the 

Lower Woodhawk Road.

130.8 R Corps of Discovery Campsite

On the return journey to St. Louis, Captain Lewis and his 

contingent of 19 men camped near here on July 30, 1806. There 

is some confusion as to whether the actual campsite was on the 

northeast bank of an island at this location or a couple of miles 

further downriver on Goodrich’s Island, just below the May 25, 

1805, campsite. Lewis wrote, “we arrived this evening at an island 

about 2 ms. above Goodrich’s Island and encamped on it’s N.E side.” 

Sergeants Gass and Ordway both put the campsite two miles further 

downriver. However, current recordings of Lewis’s original lat/long 

readings put the site on the south bank of the river at this location.

130.0 R Nelson Homestead/Hiking Opportunity

Gus “White Gus” Nelson, a Swedish immigrant and lifelong bachelor, 

was a colorful local character of many trades (wolfer, hunter, cowboy, 

stage driver, cook and rancher) who homesteaded here from 1916-1939. 

The buildings and structures here convey a true sense of homestead 

life with a henhouse, cabins and farming implements complete with 

a large exclosure fence which makes one feel as if taken back to the 

era. We recommend this as a hiking opportunity from the Woodhawk 

campgrounds.

It is rumored that Gus skipped a Fourth of July celebration at a 

neighboring ranch for fear of river pirating during times when bandits 

knew he might be away. Gus kept hidden on top of one of his structures 

with a .30-30 rifle to see what would happen. Sure enough, two men 

sneaked up from the river and cleared out supplies and valuables from 

Gus’ home. After a brief encounter, the men left in a hurry. Gus claimed 

to have taken a shot only to scare them. A few days later, two bodies 

were found down river, possibly these very two river pirates.
65

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130

129

132

131

133

128

T 23 N R 22 E

8

17

20

29

7

18

19

30

108°57'0"W

108°57'0"W

108°55'30"W

108°55'30"W

47°43'30"N

47°43'30"N

47°45'0"N

47°45'0"N

Ü

#

DY TRAIL

#

Lower Woodhawk

Developed Public Access

Site and Campground

July 30, 1806

Nelson Homestead

Camp Ilges

Rifle Pits

Nee-Mee-Poo Trail

May 25, 1805
66

River Mile

131.2 R Lower Woodhawk Developed Public Access Site

Lower Woodhawk, though relatively remote, is classified as a 

developed public access site and campground due to the maintained 

road providing entry. The campground has a vault toilet, picnic 

tables and two fire rings. Caution: Entry and exit to this site by road 

is weather dependent. During wet weather the roads are impassable, 

even with four-wheel drive vehicles. 

133.1 R Corps of Discovery Campsite

On Saturday, May 25, 1805, George Drouillard, the Corps of 

Discovery’s primary interpreter and best hunter, was dispatched by 

Captain Lewis to obtain the party’s first specimen of the bighorn 

sheep. Captain Clark and Private Bratton also harvested one of 

these animals during the course of the day offering the Expedition 

a change of diet in addition to a detailed examination of an animal 

never before seen by these eastern men. Clark wrote, “I walked on 

Shore and killed a female Ibex or big horn animal. in my absence 

Drewyer & Bratten killed two others ....”

134.1 L Power Plant Ruins

This power plant was built in the early 1900s to power machinery 

used in the gold mines north of the river in the Little Rocky 

Mountains. Taking advantage of the area’s lignite coal deposits, a 

vein was opened near here to provide fuel for the 750-horsepower 

steam-powered plant. Burning 70 tons of coal a day, the plant 

powered the Ruby Gulch Mining Company mill some 23 miles away 

from 1916-1918 and 1922-1923.

136.7 L Hideaway Primitive Boat Camp

This campsite is located in a thick stand of cottonwood, ash and 

willow trees and has a metal fire ring. Many visitors use this site 

as their final night on the river before taking out at James Kipp 

Recreation Area the following day.

136.7 L Antelope Creek Wilderness Study Area (WSA)

From this point downriver to mile 138.9, this WSA encompasses 

approximately 12,350 acres. 

NOTE: A brass marker identifies the site.

Portions of this site are on private property. 

Landowner permission is required for access.

Hiking Opportunity: Nelson Homestead/Woodhawk WSA

For an easy hike of just over a mile, follow the dirt road northeast 

out of the campground to the Nelson homestead. The bluffs, 

coulees and bottoms surrounding the homestead are part of the 

Woodhawk WSA and provide extensive hiking opportunities.
67

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137

136

135

134

T 23 N R 22 E

21

26

28

27

22

47°43'30"N

47°45'0"N

108°51'0"W

108°51'0"W

108°52'30"W

108°52'30"W

108°54'0"W

108°54'0"W

47°43'30"N

47°45'0"N

Ü

POWER PLANT FERRY ROAD

Hideaway

Primitive Boat Camp
68

River Mile

138.9 L Charles M. Russell National Wildlife Refuge Boundary

The Upper Missouri National Wild and Scenic River enters the 

refuge at this point. Managed by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, 

the refuge encompasses nearly 1,100,000 acres and extends more 

than 125 air miles east of this point. A wealth of recreational 

opportunities await those with the time and desire to experience this 

vast, unspoiled expanse of scenic prairie grandeur. 

For additional information please contact the U.S. Fish and Wildlife 

Service at cmr@fws.gov, or call (406) 538-8706.

139.1 Grand Island

This island was noted by Captains Lewis and Clark on their upriver 

journey on May 25, 1805, but was not named by them. During the 

steamboat era, freight was often unloaded here and hauled overland 

to lighten the boats and permit them to get over the shallow rapids 

prevalent in this area.

In the early 1900s, outlaw Kid Curry was a part of the Wild Bunch and 

gained the title of “the fastest gun in the West.” He was said to be able 

to drop a silver dollar off his hand, draw, and fire five shots before the 

coin could hit the ground. The gang was headed by the infamous Butch 

Cassidy and the Sundance Kid and performed robberies throughout the 

west. Reportedly Kid and the gang escaped to a hideout somewhere up 

this coulee after they robbed a train.

138.8 R Hiking Opportunity: Hideaway Coulee

Remote, rugged breaks topography highlights this hike for the 

more adventurous spirits visiting the Monument. The steep 

vertical slopes punctuated with evergreens, sagebrush and rocky 

cliffs intensify the silent wildness of the area and offers a much 

sought-after experience for those seeking a true sense of times 

gone by. Once out of the river bottoms, the views from the 

uplands are awe-inspiring, classic examples of the Missouri River 

Breaks.
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138

137

139

140

141

T 23 N R 23 E

T 22 N R 22 E

T 22 N R 23 E

T 23 N R 22 E

1

31

6

8

5

36

108°46'30"W

108°51'0"W

47°42'0"N

47°42'0"N 47°43'30"N 108°46'30"W

108°48'0"W

108°48'0"W

108°49'30"W

108°49'30"W

108°51'0"W

47°43'30"N

Ü

Hideaway Coulee

Grand

Island
70

NOTE: A brass marker identifies the site.

River Mile

142.9 Upper Two Calf Island/Lower Two Calf Island

The numerous islands and braided river channels between here and 

Lower Two Calf Island just down river at mile 143.9 are thought 

to be eroded fragments of the large Tea Island charted by Lewis 

and Clark in May 1805. At river mile 143.9 right, Two Calf Creek 

enters the Missouri. One source implies that the creek is named thus 

because a few years after the Lewis and Clark Expedition, “a buffalo 

cow was killed here, having with her two calves, a fact never before 

observed.”

145.5 L Corps of Discovery Campsite

Over the past two centuries, the river’s channel has changed 

substantially and with it, this camp site’s location. On May 24, 1805, 

the Expedition encamped on the south side of the river. As of this 

writing, the site is located on the north side in what is now known 

as Kendall Bottom. Lewis wrote, “We set out at an early hour this 

morning and proceed on principally by the chord until about 9 A.M. 

when a fine breeze sprung up from the S.E. and enabled us though 

the balance of the day to employ our sails to advantage; we proceed 

at a pretty good pace notwithstanding the courant of the river was 

very strong....”
71

145

142

143

141

144

T 22 N R 23 E

27

22

17

16

21

8

108°45'0"W

108°48'0"W

47°39'0"N

47°40'30"N 108°45'0"W

108°46'30"W

108°46'30"W

108°48'0"W

47°39'0"N

47°40'30"N

Ü

Antelope Creek

Kendall Bottom

Lower Two

Calf Island

May 24, 1805
72

River Mile

148.8 Fred Robinson Bridge

The bridge that crosses Highway 191 here is named in tribute to Fred 

L. Robinson, a local resident, World War I veteran, and dedicated 

public servant who served in various elected offices including the 

Montana State Senate for a period of 40 years. During his political 

tenure, two primary objectives for the area—construction of a 

north/south road through Phillips County (Highway 191) and the 

building of a hospital—were accomplished. Consequently, the bridge 

was named in his honor in 1959.

149.0 R James Kipp Recreation Area

This marks the end of the Upper Missouri National Wild and Scenic 

River designation. For many visitors, arrival at the James Kipp 

Recreation Area is the conclusion of their river odyssey. The takeout point at the public boat ramp is approximately one mile below 

the Fred Robinson Bridge on river right. 

James Kipp Recreation Area is named for James Kipp, a 19th century 

fur trader who opened the Upper Missouri to the fur trade with the 

establishment of Fort Piegan in 1831 at the Missouri’s confluence 

with the Marias River. 

This large campground is a classic example of a fully mature and 

healthy riparian river bottom once common to the Upper Missouri 

River. It is normally accessible year round and has a seasonal visitor 

contact station, well-maintained gravel roads, concrete boat ramp, 

water, vault toilets, RV campsites, tent sites, fire rings, picnic tables, 

trash dumpsters and an RV waste dump site. This site is operated 

as a fee site on a first come, first served basis. For additional 

information, please contact (406) 538-1900. 

SAFETY TIP 

For those continuing their journey past James Kipp Recreation 

Area, the river corridor is within the confines of the Charles M. 

Russell National Wildlife Refuge and is managed by the U.S. 

Fish and Wildlife Service. The river widens considerably as it 

becomes “slack water” as you proceed downstream. The river 

is eventually inundated by the Fort Peck Reservoir. Because of 

fluctuating water levels, access to surrounding areas indicated 

on maps of the area may not be possible. Extensive mud flats, 

high winds, waves and myriad other hazards associated with 

large water operations may be encountered. For safety’s sake, we 

recommend visitors contact the C.M. Russell National Wildlife 

Refuge Headquarters at (406) 538-8706 or local outdoor guide 

companies for the most current information. 
73

T 22 N R 24 E

!y

146

150

148

149

147 T 22 N R 23 E

T 22 N R 24 E

T 21 N R 24 E

31

30

25

24

32

108°40'30"W

108°43'30"W

47°37'30"N

47°39'0"N 108°40'30"W

108°42'0"W

108°42'0"W

108°43'30"W

47°37'30"N

47°39'0"N

Ü

Armells Creek

Knox Bottom

US 191

James Kipp

Recreation Area

Boat Launch

Take Out

LeClair Bottoms

Fred Robinson Bridge
74

Sites and Facilities Chart

Site

River 

Mile

GPS Coordinates

(Datum: WGS 84)

Zone Easting NorthingBoat RampRoad AccessShelterFire RingToiletWater

Judith Landing 

Recreation Area

88.5

Left 12T 0603272 5288198    

Stafford Ferry 101.8

Left 12T 0620643 5288379   

McGarry Bar 

Recreation Area

103.3

Right 12T 0623070 5289474 

Lower Woodhawk 

Recreation Area

131.2

Right 12T 0653734 5289639   

Hideaway Recreation 

Area

136.7

Left 12T 0661195 5287685 

Kipp Recreation Area 149.0

Right 12T 0674428 5277036     

Wildlife Viewing

The C.M. Russell Wildlife refuge offers spectacular opportunities 

for viewing wildlife. Several species of large ungulates native to the 

area are often visible. A short distance down river from James Kipp 

Recreation Area is one of the premier elk viewing sites in the state. 

In the late summer and early fall, vast herds of elk can be seen in the 

river bottoms adjacent to the roads in designated elk viewing areas. 

To get there, drive north from James Kipp Recreation Area on U.S. 

191. After crossing the Fred Robinson Bridge, continue about one 

mile and turn east on CMR Refuge Road 101. Proceed just over 

five miles to the beginning of the elk viewing areas. Interpretive 

signs along the route educate and enhance the journey, offering 

visitors a glimpse of the past and featuring wildlife in their native 

habitat.
75

Emergency Contacts

In case of emergency begin with dialing 911. Additionally, 

contact any of the following:

Chouteau County Sheriff (406) 622-5451

(River mile 0 to 88.5)

Fergus County Sheriff (406) 538-3415

(River mile 88.5 to 149)

Blaine County Sheriff (406) 357-2019

(River mile 88.5 to 149)

Lewistown Fire Dispatch (406) 538-1072

BLM Law Enforcement Ranger (406) 538-1939

(406) 622-4017

*Please be aware there is rarely cell phone service along the river. 

For Additional Information

For questions regarding river management or visitor services 

and information.

BLM - Missouri Breaks Interpretive Center/

Fort Benton River Management Station (406) 622-4000

701 7th Street

Box 1389

Fort Benton, MT 59442

BLM - Great Falls Office (406) 791-7700

BLM - Havre Field Office (406) 262-2820

BLM - Lewistown Field Office (406) 538-1900

BLM - Malta Field Office (406) 654-5100

U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service--

C.M. Russell National Wildlife Refuge (406) 538-5706

Montana Fish, Wildlife & Parks (800) 847-6668

Report misconduct and/or game violations (406) 454-5878

U.S. Geological Survey (USGS)

http://waterdata.usgs.gov/mt/nwis/

current/?type=dailydischarge&group_key=basin_cd

Contact for daily average river flow.

All photos by BLM unless noted otherwise.
76

United States Department of the Interior

Bureau of Land Management

BLM/MT/GI-05/011 Rev. 4/17

“The air is so pure in this open country that mountains 

and other elivated objects appear much nearer than 

they really are; these mountains do not appear to be 

further than 15 M. we sent a man up this creek to 

explore the country he returned late in the evening 

and informed that he had proceeded ten miles directly 

towards these mountains and that he did not think 

himself by any mean[s] half way these mountains are 

rockey and covered with some scattering pine..”

Meriwether Lewis, May 24, 1805

United States Department of the Interior

Bureau of Land Management

BLM/MT/GI-08/009 Rev. 11/17