UNITED STATES DEPARTMENT OF LABOR • BUREAU OF LABOR STATISTICS • Bulletin No. 1635

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LABOR in the

TEXTILE and

APPAREL

INDUSTRIES

Bulletin No. 1635

U.S. DEPARTMENT OF LABOR

George P. Shultz, Secretary

BUREAU OF LABOR STATISTICS

Geoffrey H. Moore, Commissioner

•~ ^ 5 T '

August 1969

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Acknowledgments

The report is a product of the Department of Laborfs

Bureau of Labor Statistics in consultation with the Bureau

of International Labor Affairs. It was prepared under the

supervision of H. M. Douty of the Bureau of Labor Statistics.

Other principal contributors from the Bureau of Labor Statistics were David P. Lafayette (Office of Manpower and

Employment Statistics); Edgar Weinberg (Office of Productivity,

Technology, and Growth); William M. Davis (Office of Wages and

Industrial Relations); and Julian Frechtman (Office of Foreign

Labor and Trade). Herbert N. Blackman and Irving I. Kramer of

the Bureau of International Labor Affairs contributed significantly to the planning and development of the project.

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Summary ............................................

Employment, Unemployment and Labor Turnover....... .

A. Textiles.... ..................................

Current Employment Situation ................

Employment Trends ...........................

Unemployment Trends .........................

Labor Turnover ..............................

B. Apparel...................... .................

Current Employment Situation ................

Employment Trends ...........................

Unemployment Trends .........................

Labor Turnover........ ......................

Industry Location............ ..................

A. Textiles ......................................

B. Apparel .......................................

Establishment Size .................................

A. Textiles ......................................

B. Apparel .......................................

Labor Force Characteristics: Skill, Education, Race,

Sex and A g e ....... ...........................

A. Textiles ............... ...................

Skill .......................................

Education ...................................

Race ........................................

Women Workers ...............................

A g e .........................................

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B. Apparel ....................................... 25

Skill ....................................... 25

Education................................... 26

Race ....... 26

Women Workers ............ 27

Age ......................................... 27

V. Technological Change ............................... 29

A. Textiles ...................................... 29

Operating Characteristics ................... 29

Manpower Utilization ........................ 29

Interplant Differences in Performance ....... 30

Some Factors Affecting Industry Performance .. 30

Adjustments to Technological Change ......... 34

B. Apparel....................................... 35

Operating Characteristics ................... 35

Manpower Utilization ........................ 36

Some Factors Affecting Industry Performance .. 36

Adjustments to Technological Change ......... 38

VI. Wages and Industrial Relations ................... 39

A. Textiles ...................................... 39

Wage and Benefit Levels ..................... 39

Wage and Benefit Trends ..................... 41

Industrial Relations ........................ 42

B. Apparel ....................................... 44

Wage and Benefit Levels ..................... 44

Wage and Benefit Trends ..................... 46

Industrial Relations ........................ 47

VII. Textiles and Apparel in Puerto Rico ............... 49

Employment and Unemployment ..................... 49

Size of Establishment ........................... 51

Wage and Benefit Levels ......................... 51

Industrial Relations ............................. 53

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Contents— Continued

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Statistical Appendix ......................................... 54

Table 1 - Total Employment: Manufacturing, Textiles,

and Apparel, 1947 to 1968 .................. 55

Table 2 - Unemployment Rates in Manufacturing, Textiles

and Apparel, 1958 to 1968 ............. ..... 56

Table 3 - Labor Turnover Rates: Manufacturing, Textiles and Apparel* 1958 to 1967 ............. 57

Table 4 - Employment in Textiles, by Region and State,

June 1968 .............. 58

Table 5 - Employment in Apparel, by Region and State,

March 1968 ................................. 59

Table 6 - Percent Distribution of Employment in Manufacturing, Textiles and Apparel, by Area,

First Quarter, 1967 ......................... 60

Table 7 - Percent Distribution of Employment in Textiles

in Selected States, by Area, First Quarter,

1967 ....................................... 61

Table 8 - Percent Distribution of Employment in Apparel

for Selected States, by Area, First Quarter,

1967 ....................................... 62

Table 9 - Employment in Textiles and Apparel, as Percent

of Manufacturing Employment,. by Selected

States and Areas, First Quarter, 1967 ....... 63

Table 10- Percent Distribution of Employees, by Employment-Size Class, by Selected Industry, First

Quarter, 1967 ................. 66

Table 11- Percent Distribution of Establishments, by

Employment-Size Class, by Selected Industry,

First Quarter, 1967 and 1962 ............... 67

Table 12- Percent Distribution of Employed Workers in

Selected Industries, by Broad Occupational

Group, 1968 ................................ 68

Table 13- Percent Distribution of Years of School Completed by the Experienced Civilian Labor

Force in Manufacturing, Textiles, and Apparel,

1960 ....................................... 69

Table 14- Percentage Distribution of Nonwhite Employment

in Manufacturing, Textiles and Apparel, by

Sex, 1962 to 1968 ............... 70

Table 15- Percent Employment of Negroes in the Textile

Industry, by Selected States, 1966 ......... 71

Table 16- Percent Employment of Negroes in the Apparel

Industry, by Selected States, 1966 .......... 72

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Table 17- Employment of Women in Manufacturing and in

Textile and Apparel Industries, 1960 and

1967 .......................................... 73

Table 18- Percent Distribution of Employed Persons by Age,

Manufacturing, Textiles, and Apparel, 1960

and 1950 ...................................... 74

Table 19- Changes in Average Hourly and Weekly Earnings

and Average Weekly Hours of Production Workers

in Textile Manufacturing, October 1958 to

October 1968 ................ 75

Table 20- Annual Earnings of Workers in the Textile Industry

and Selected Branches, 1964 ................... 76

Table 21- Estimated Proportions of Production Workers

Earning Less than $2.00 an Hour in Selected

Textile Industries, United States and Southeast,

October 1968 .................................. 77

Table 22- Paid Holiday Provisions for Production Workers in

Selected Textile Industries, United States and

Selected Regions .............................. 78

Table 23- Vacation Benefits in Selected Textile Industries,

United States and Selected Regions ............ 79

Table 24- Health and Welfare Benefits for Production Workers

in Selected Textile Industries, United States

and Selected Regions .......................... 80

Table 25- General Wage Increases, Cotton and Synthetic Textile Industries, North and South, 1950-68 ..... 81

Table 26- Annual Earnings of Textile Workers, 1946-64 ..... 82

Table 27- Proportion of Workers Covered by Union Agreements

in Selected Textile Industries, United States

and Selected Regions .......................... 83

Table 28- Membership of the Major Unions in the Textile and

Apparel Industries, 1956, 1960, 1964 and 1966 .. 84

Table 29- Work Stoppages in the United States, All Industries and Textile, 1956-67 .................... 85

Table 30- Changes in Average Hourly and Weekly Earnings and

Average Weekly Hours of Production Workers in

Apparel Manufacturing, October 1958 to October

1968 .......................................... 86

Table 31- Annual Earnings of Workers in Apparel Industry

and Selected Branches, 1964 ................... 87

Table 32- Average Hourly Earnings in Selected Occupations,

Selected Apparel Industries ................... 88

Table 33- Estimated Proportions of Production Workers Earning Less than $2.00 an Hour in Selected Apparel

Industries, United States and Selected Regions,

October 1968 .................................. 89

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Table 34- Annual Earnings of Apparel Workers, 1946-64 .. 90

Table 35- Major Collective Bargaining Agreements in the

Apparel Industry .......................... 91

Table 36- Work Stoppages in the United States, All

Industries and Apparel, 1956-67 ........... 92

Table 37- Employment in Puerto Rico in All Manufacturing, Textiles, and Apparel, 1957-67 ....... 93

Table 38- Employment in Puerto Rico in Selected Textile

and Apparel Industries, 1957-67 ........... 94

Table 39- Employment, Underemployment and Unemployment

in Puerto Rico, 1957-67 ................... 95

Table 40- Employment and Number of Plants by Plant Size

in Puerto Rico in Manufacturing, Textiles,

and Apparel, 1957, 1966 and October 1967 ... 96

Table 41- Employment and Number of Plants by Plant Size

in Puerto Rico in Manufacturing, Textiles,

and Apparel, 1957 and 1966 ................ 97

Table 42- Average Hourly and Weekly Earnings, and

Average Weekly Hours, Manufacturing, Textiles, and Apparel, Puerto Rico, 1957-67 ... 98

Table 43- Average Hourly Earnings, Textiles and Apparel,

Mainland and Puerto Rico, 1957-68 ......... 99

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L A B O R IN TH E T E X T IL E A N D A P P A R E L IN D U S T R IE S

SUMMARY

Textiles and apparel are among the oldest manufacturing industries

in the United States.!./ Together they employ a significant fraction

of the industrial labor force. Each industry consists of a comparatively large number of firms and establishments which are widely dispersed geographically. Either separately or in combination, the two

industries account for a sizable proportion of factory employment in

numerous small- and medium-sized communities. Employment in apparel

is relatively important in several major metropolitan areas. In the

United States market, both industries operate generally under conditions of intense product competition, including competition from imported yarns, fabrics, and garments from many parts of the world.

The purpose of the present report is to summarize available

information on labor and related economic conditions in the two industries. The data presented are drawn largely from the Bureau of Labor

Statistics, the Bureau of the Census, and other governmental agencies.

Wherever possible, statistics are presented through 1968. It is hoped

that the report, aside from such immediate interest as it may have, will

provide a convenient source of background information for the appraisal

of future labor developments in these industries.

1/ The textile industry, as used in this report, conforms to

major industry groups 22 of the Standard Industrial Classification

Manual; the apparel industry conforms to major industry group 23.

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Employment and Unemployment

During 1968, the textile and apparel industries combined employed

an average of 2.4 million workers — 985,000 in textiles and 1,417,000

in apparel. The two industries together accounted for about one-eighth

of all manufacturing employment.

Employment trends in the two industries differed significantly

during the postwar period. Between 1947 and 1968, employment in textiles fell by 24 percent, with most of the decline occurring by 1958.

The rate of decline slowed between 1958 and 1963 and was reversed in

1964 under the stimulus of rapid national economic growth. In the

case of apparel, employment was almost 23.percent greater in 1968 than

in 1947, with much of the increase occurring after 1961. In manufacturing as a whole, employment was about 27 percent greater in 1968

than in 1947.

The ratio of employment in apparel to that in all manufacturing—

7.2 percent in 1968 -i- has not changed markedly during the postwar

period; on the other hand, the textile proportion declined from more

than 8 percent in the late 1940's to 5 percent in 1968.

The unemployment rate in textiles generally has been somewhat

higher than the manufacturing rate in recent years, and the rate in

the apparel industry has been significantly higher. In 1968, average

unemployment rates in manufacturing, textiles, and apparel were 3.2,

3.5, and 5.9, respectively.

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Labor Turnover

Labor turnover rates (accessions and separations) have been substantially higher in apparel than in manufacturing as a whole since

1958, when these data first became available; in textiles, both separation and accession rates were lower than in manufacturing generally

until 1965. The quit rate in both textiles and apparel has risen during the past several years, suggesting that alternative employment

opportunities have widened.

Industry Location

The apparel industry is somewhat less concentrated regionally

than the textile industry. Almost 70 percent of the textile labor

force was employed in the South in 1968, and the remainder was found

largely in the Northeast. More than half of all textile employment

was accounted for by the three States of North Carolina, South

Carolina, and Georgia.

To a highly unusual extent among manufacturing industries, textile employment is found in small communities. In 1967, the most recent

year for which these data are available, about 61 percent of the textile workers were employed in nonmetropolitan areas. In some major

textile States the proportion was considerably higher. For example,

the proportion of textile employment in nonmetropolitan areas was 70

percent in Georgia, 77 percent in South Carolina, and 86 percent in

North Carolina. Textiles provided somewhat more than half of all

factory jobs in nonmetropolitan areas in North and South Carolina,

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and about one-third in Georgia. Additionally, textiles provided

one-fourth or more of all manufacturing jobs in a substantial number

of metropolitan areas. The industry is thus of critical importance in

the economic life of many small and of some larger communities.

Regionally, about 46 percent of apparel employment in 1968 was in

the Northeast, 36 percent in the South, almost 11 percent in the North

Central States, and the remainder in the West. Apparel is more of an

urban industry than textiles. It is, of course, a major source of factory jobs in New York City, and a significant source of employment in a

number of other large communities. However, about one-third of apparel

employment is found in nonmetropolitan areas. In fact, apparel accounted

for more than 15 percent of all factory jobs in the nonmetropolitan areas

of six States: Pennsylvania, Missouri, Georgia, Tennessee, Alabama and

Mississippi.

The two industries combined account for a very high proportion of

all manufacturing jobs in some States. In South Carolina, for example,

about 58 percent of manufacturing employment is found in these two industries; in North Carolina the proportion is almost half. Even in the

industrially diversified State of New York, textiles and apparel combined

provide more than 18 percent of manufacturing employment.

Establishment Size

Both industries consist of large numbers of establishments — in

1967, textile establishments numbered 7,083 and apparel establishments

25,498.2/ The two industries combined accounted for about 11 percent

of all manufacturing establishments.

2/ Based on Bureau of the Census, County Business Patterns. 1967.

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In terms of establishment-size distribution by number of employees,

textiles conformed much more closely than apparel to manufacturing as a

whole. In 1967, 46 percent of the workers in manufacturing were employed in establishments with 500 or more employees. The proportion of

workers in textiles in this establishment-size group was 45 percent and

in apparel only 17 percent. On the other hand, almost 38 percent of

the workers in apparel were in establishments with fewer than 100 employees; the proportion for textiles was approximately 15 percent. Very

small establishments are numerous in both industries. In textiles, 37

percent of the establishments employed fewer than 19 workers; in apparel,

49 percent of the establishments were in this employment-size class.

The proportion of total employment in these small establishments, however, was only 2.3 percent in textiles and 6.4 percent in apparel.

Labor Force Characteristics

a. Skill. Both the textile and apparel industries have unusually

high proportions of semi-skilled (operatives and kindred) workers — about

67 percent in textiles and 78 percent in apparel. These proportions reflect the nature of the production processes in the two industries, principally the existence of large numbers of highly specialized operations.

In manufacturing generally, about 44 percent of the employees are in the

semi-skilled category. Skilled workers account for about 12 percent of

the employed labor force in textiles, 5 percent in apparel, and almost

19 percent in manufacturing as a whole.

b. Education. The educational attainment of workers in both industries, on the average, is below the level in manufacturing generally.

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In 1960, the latest year for which this information is available, the

median years of schooling completed by textile workers was slightly

less than 8.0; by apparel workers, 9.7; and by workers in manufacturing

as a whole, 11.0.

c. Race. In textiles, in 1968, whites constituted 90.5, and nonwhites 9.5 percent, of total employment. The nonwhite proportion in manufacturing generally was 9.7 percent. The proportion of nonwhite employment in textiles doubled between 1962 and 1968 for a relatively greater

gain than in manufacturing as a whole, and the upward trend appears to

be continuing into 1969. In absolute numbers, nonwhites held about

55,000 more jobs in textiles in 1968 than in 1962. By State, nonwhite

employment in textiles in 1966, the most recent year for which State data

are available, ranged from 2 percent in Massachusetts to 13 percent in

New Jersey. In the important textile States of North Carolina, South

Carolina, and Georgia, the range was from 8 to 10 percent.

In recent years, the employment of nonwhites has been proportionately

greater in apparel than in manufacturing generally. Between 1962 and

1968, nonwhite workers increased from 9.3 to 12.7 percent of apparel employment — a somewhat slower rate of increase than in textiles but greater

than for all manufacturing. Preliminary data for early 1969 indicate that

the nonwhite employment ratio continues to grow. In some labor markets,

the apparel industry employs large numbers of workers of other minority

groups, notably Puerto Ricans in New York City and Cubans in Miami. By

State, nonwhite employment in 1966 ranged from 4 percent in Tennessee to

16 percent in South Carolina. The rate was 10 percent in New York.

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d. Sex, The employment of women in both industries is relatively

much greater than in manufacturing as a whole. In 1967, women consti^

tuted about 45 percent of the labor force in textiles, compared with

approximately 27 percent in all manufacturing. The proportion of women

employees in apparel is extraordinarily high — almost 80 percent. The

occupational requirements of these industries are such as to make each a

major source of factory employment for women.

e. Age. In 1960, the median age of workers in manufacturing generally was 39.5 years. The median age in textiles was only moderately

higher — 40.7 years, largely reflecting the somewhat greater proportion

of workers over 44 years of age (39 percent in textiles compared with

35 percent in all manufacturing).

The median age level of workers in apparel was 41.7 years, the highest for any major manufacturing industry. About 41 percent of the apparel

workers were over 44 years of age in 1960, and a relatively high proportion — 9.1 percent — were over 59 years.

The relatively high proportion of women in the textile and apparel

labor force probably has an effect on age distribution in these industries.

Women tend to leave the labor force at about 25 years of age and to return

soon after age 40, when family responsibilities become less burdensome.

In the case of textiles, contracting employment during the 1950fs presumably affected age composition. In apparel, the seasonal nature of the

industry may provide an opportunity for some older workers to supplement

their retirement incomes by employment during peak seasons.

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Technological Change

During the past few years heavy capital expenditures in the textile industry have been made for the modernization of plant and equipment, and for additional capacity. Such expenditures are estimated at

$4.6 billion over the period 1964-68. Improved managerial capacity and

changes in industry organization also have affected manpower utilization. Although definitive data on productivity are lacking, man-hour

output appears to have advanced substantially in recent years. Levels

of performance among plants within the industry differ widely, reflecting differences in capital investment, age of equipment, plant size, and

other factors.

In apparel, the scope for technological improvement and innovation

appears more limited^ than in textiles. The industry1s expenditures in

recent years for new plant and equipment, although increasing, have been

among the lowest per production worker among manufacturing industries.

Research and development expenditures are on a small scale. The technology of apparel manufacture is comparatively simple and highly labor

intensive. The capital-labor ratio in apparel, based on 1963 data, was

about one-half of the ratio for textile mill products and about one-fourth

of the all manufacturing ratio.

While intense competition results in severe pressure on costs,

advances in mechanization remain difficult for the typical apparel firm.

The tendency for production runs to be short complicates the problem.

The use of mass production methods of standardization, simplification,

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and specialization is limited by the demands of fashion for frequent

changes of style* Reliance is placed largely on improved production

engineering techniques and on comparatively small improvements in

equipment to enhance efficiency in the use of manpower.

Wages and Industrial Relations

Production workers in textiles had straight-time average hourly

earnings of about $2.15 in October 1968; including premium pay for

overtime, earnings were $2.27 an hour. Weekly earnings averaged $94.00.

Some sectors within the broad industry group had relatively large proportions of workers below the $1.60 Federal minimum wage, which was introduced February 1, 1968. Employee benefits, such as paid holidays, vacations, and insurance and pension plans, tend to be less liberal in textiles

than in manufacturing generally.

Wage adjustments have accelerated in the textile industry in recent

years. Six rounds of wage increases in southern textile mills occurred

between 1963 and 1968. The first four each amounted to about 5 percent;

the 1967 increase was 6 to 6 1/2 percent; and the 1968 adjustment averaged about 6 percent. Wages continued upward in 1969.

Unionization is not extensive in the dominant southern division of

the textile industry. The incidence of industrial disputes has been comparatively low in recent years.

In apparel, production workers averaged $2.22 an hour in straight-time

wages in October 1968; the addition of premium overtime pay raises the

average by 5 cents. Average weekly earnings were about $83.00. As in

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textiles, wages in some sectors of the apparel industry were significantly affected by the $1.60 Federal minimum wage. The length of the 

standard workweek in major divisions of the women's apparel industry is 

35 hours; in men's apparel, the standard is typically 40 hours. Average 

actual weekly hours are subject to seasonal variation, but in recent 

years have tended to fall below the level in manufacturing generally. 

Employee benefit provisions vary considerably among industries in the 

apparel group.

The pace of wage adjustments in apparel began to quicken in 1965. 

Unionization is more extensive than in textiles, although some segments 

of apparel are not well organized. Work stoppages have not been extensive in recent years.

Puerto Rico

Average factory employment in textiles in Puerto Rico exceeded

7,000 workers in 1968; in apparel the average was 37,000. The two industries combined accounted for almost one-third of all factory employment 

on the Island. Puerto Rican textile employment was about 0.7 percent of 

textile employment on the mainland; in apparel, the proportion was about 

2.6 percent.

In 1968, average hourly earnings in the Puerto Rican textile industry were $1.45 and in apparel $1.44. In percentage terms, wage differentials between Puerto Rico and the mainland have declined in both industries over the past decade; in cents-per-hour terms, differentials have 

widened somewhat in the past several years.

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I. EMPLOYMENT, UNEMPLOYMENT AND LABOR TURNOVER

A. Textiles

Current Employment Situation

Employment in textile mills averaged 985,000 workers in 1968, 

when the industry accounted for 5.0 percent of manufacturing employment. This represented an increase of about 2.9 percent over 

average employment during 1967. During the same period, employment 

in manufacturing as a whole increased by 1.5 percent.

The unemployment rate in textiles decreased from 3.8 to 3.5 

percent between 1967 and 1968, while the rate in all manufacturing 

declined from 3.6 to 3.2 percent.

The quit rate in textiles was slightly higher in November 1968 

than in the corresponding month of 1967 — 3.1 as against 2.8 — , 

possibly signifying that alternative employment opportunities for 

textile workers had experienced some improvement. However, the rate 

for new hires was about the same in November of both years, suggesting that the demand for workers had not altered.

Employment Trends

In 1967, nearly half of the total employment in textile mills 

was divided almost equally between the two largest industry groups— 

cotton broad woven fabrics and knit goods (including hosiery, fabric, 

outerwear and underwear)• Three other industry groups combined— yarn 

and thread, silk and synthetic broad woven fabrics, and finishing 

textiles (except wool and knit)— accounted for nearly one-third of 

all workers. The four remaining industry groups— weaving and finishing broad woolens, floor covering, narrow fabrics and smallwares, and 

miscellaneous textile goods— together employed one-fifth of the industry^ workers.

Employment in textile manufacturing establishments fell from about

1,300,000 in 1947 to approximately 985,000 in 1968, or by about 24 percent (Appendix table 1). During the same period, total manufacturing 

employment rose by 27 percent, to an all-time high of 19.7 million.

As a result, the proportion of manufacturing employment accounted for 

by textiles fell from 8.4 percent to 5.0 percent. Most of the decline 

in employment in the textile industry took place between 1947 and 1958.

Among the factors leading to this decline in textile employment 

was a reorganization of the industry into larger, more efficient enterprises. The favorable business climate during the years immediately

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after World War II led to considerable over-capacity, which in turn 

created intense price competition among the small firms then dominating the industry. This climate encouraged mergers and the continued 

migration of the industry to the South. The larger, more modern 

capital-intensive plants in the South tended to reduce labor requirements in the industry over the period.

Other factors contributing to reduced employment in the industry 

included the widespread acceptance and increased output of synthetic 

fabrics, for which production processes were generally more highly 

automatic than those used to manufacture textiles from natural fibers. 

Imports of textile products also increased over the period, having 

some influence on employment.

Between 1958 and 1963, employment in textile mills continued to 

decline, but at a slower rate. The rapid growth of the economy in the 

early 1960fs blunted this decline, and in 1964 textile employment began 

to increase. Further stimulated by the Vietnam conflict, employment 

rose between 1964 and 1968 by about 100,000 employees. The only other 

period in the postwar era when the textile industry experienced employment growth of more than a yearfs duration was during the 1945-48 boom.

Employment rose in seven of the nine textile mill industry groups 

between 1958 and 1967.U However, significant employment declines in 

the two remaining groups— cotton broad woven goods and wool weaving and 

finishing— nearly^ offset these gains. Rising production and use of synthetic fabrics, as well as increasing consumer acceptance of blended 

synthetic and natural fiber fabrics, resulted in decreased demand for 

fabrics made solely of cotton or wool. As a result, employment in cotton and wool textile mills has tended to decline.

Employment in the second largest industry subgroup, knitting, declined between 1947 and 1958, from 242,000 to a low of 207,000. The 

introduction of nylon seamless hosiery after World War II contributed 

importantly to the decline, since the equipment used to make seamless 

hosiery was more automatic than that which it replaced. Nevertheless, 

by 1967 employment in knitting mills had returned to the level of the 

early 1950fs, and accounted for about one-fourth of total industry 

employment, compared to less than one-fifth in 1947. This recent 

growth has been stimulated by increasing consumer preference for casual 

wear, including knitted outerwear such as shirts and sweaters.

1/ BLS employment (payroll) data prior to 1958 are available 

separately for only three industry groups— knitting; yarn and thread; 

and finishing textiles (except wool and knit).

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Unemployment Trends

Textile workers experienced a relatively high rate of unemployment 

between 1958 and 1968 (Appendix table 2). The unemployment rate for 

textile workers was somewhat higher than that for all manufacturing for 

every year between 1958 and 1968, except 1961 and 1962, but there is no 

evidence of any significant change in the relationship over the years.

The percentage of the textile labor force that was unemployed ranged 

from a high of 9.5 in 1958, to a low of 3.5 in 1968.

The high unemployment rates in the late 1950fs undoubtedly reflected 

the sharp decline in textile employment during the decade ending in 

1958, which left a relatively large pool of unemployed experienced textile workers. However, by 1968, many of these workers had either moved 

to other industries or had been absorbed back into textile employment 

in the tight labor markets of 1966-68. In recent years, some textile 

manufacturers appear to have experienced labor shortages, especially 

of male skilled workers. During 1968, the unemployment rate for male 

textile workers averaged 1.7 percent for the year. This was 0.7 of a 

percentage point lower than the unemployment rate for all male manufacturing workers in that year.

Labor Turnover

Separation rates in textile mills rose significantly between 

1958 and 1967 (Appendix table 3). Although the layoff rate in 1967 

was less than half the rate in 1958, the quit rate was more than 2 1/2 

times higher. In 1967, the quit rate was higher in textile mills than 

in all manufacturing.

The high quit rates and low layoff rates in the textile industry 

in recent years appear to indicate that the industryfs workers found 

alternative job opportunities increasingly abundant over the 1958 to 

1967 period. Many of the industryfs workers probably shifted to higher 

paying jobs, either in other industries or in other textile mills.

The accession rate2J in the textile industry also rose substantially 

during the 1958-67 period, reflecting increaising labor requirements and 

the availability of additional workers. Many of the accessions during 

this period of growing employment probably represented workers moving 

from one textile establishment to another in search of more attractive 

jobs.

2/ The rate at which employees are hired

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B. Apparel

Current Employment Situation

In the apparel industry, an average of 1,417,000 workers were 

employed in 1968, an increase of 1,2 percent over 1967. The employment increase in manufacturing as a whole was 1.5 percent, as previously indicated. The apparel industry accounted for 7.2 percent of 

manufacturing employment in 1968, down from 7.5 percent in 1965.

The unemployment rate in apparel fell from 6.5 percent in 1967 

to 5.9 percent in 1968. This was the lowest unemployment rate in 

the industry over the past decade. It remained, however, ‘substantially higher than the rate for all manufacturing.

Voluntary quits in the apparel industry were at the same rate 

in November of both 1967 and 1968. Total accession and separation 

rates were slightly lower in November 1968 than a year earlier.

In apparel, as in textiles, no unusual change in the employment 

picture was evident as 1968 came to an end.

Employment Trends

In the apparel industry, more than 35 percent of the workers in 

1967 were engaged in making clothing for men and boys, about 30 percent produced womenfs outerwear, and 12 percent turned out fabricated 

textile products, such as curtains and housefurnishings. The remaining workers (about 22 percent) were employed in establishments making 

women1s and childrenfs undergarments; girls1 and children’s outerwear; 

hats, caps, and millinery; and fur goods and miscellaneous apparel.

Employment in apparel manufacturing establishments increased from 

less than 1,200,000 to more than 1,400,000 between 1947 and 1968 (Appendix table 1). Apparel industry employment increased at the same 

average rate as all manufacturing over the period. However, significantly different growth rates were experienced by the industry from 

year to year. During the late 1940fs and throughout most of the 

1950fs, the industry’s employment remained relatively stable, fluctuating between 1,150,000 and 1,250,000 workers. Not until 1962, however, did apparel employment again achieve the high level reached in 

1953, about 1,250,000 workers. Since 1958, apparel employment has 

increased by more than 250,000, or by more than one-fifth, only 

slightly less than the average growth for manufacturing as a whole.

Employment change varied considerably among the different apparel 

industry groups between 1947 and 1967, reflecting such factors as

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changes in the age composition of the population and the trend toward 

casual wear. Employment increased most rapidly (nearly 50 percent) 

in the industry group producing girls1, children*s, and infants1 outerwear. This rise was stimulated mainly by the increasing proportion 

of children in the population. Moreover, employment in the industry 

group manufacturing women1s, misses1, and juniorfs outerwear- rose by 

25 percent during this period. Another industry group with more than 

a proportionate growth in employment was menfs and boys1 furnishings, 

which increased by about 40 percent. In contrast, the industry group 

manufacturing menfs and boys* suits and coats suffered an employment 

decline of nearly 15 percent, reflecting the relative decline in 

popularity of formal wear. The most rapid increase in apparel industry 

employment between 1958 and 1967— ' occurred in miscellaneous fabricated 

textile products, whose products include curtains, draperies, and other 

textile house furnishings, where demand was stimulated by the growing 

number of young adults establishing new households.

Unemployment Trends

In the apparel industry, unemployment rates have been significantly 

above the level for all manufacturing in recent years, ranging from a 

high of 12.0 in 1958 to a low of 5.9 in 1968 (Appendix table 2). During 

this period the unemployment rate for apparel workers as well as all 

manufacturing workers fluctuated with changes in economic conditions; 

the rapid growth of the economy since 1961 has been reflected in significantly lower rates for both manufacturing and apparel. Nevertheless, the general nature of the apparel industry— many small firms, 

an easy-to-train labor force composed mostly of women, seasonality and 

other characteristics— has resulted in significantly higher unemployment rates for apparel workers than for other workers, even in periods 

of strong demand for apparel products. In addition, the ratio of apparel unemployment to that of all manufacturing has tended to rise in 

the past few years, mainly because the apparel rate has not fallen as 

rapidly as that of all manufacturing. This could indicate an inability 

of apparel workers to find alternative employment opportunities as easily 

as manufacturing workers in general. However, it could also indicate 

that the "frictional11 unemployment rate in the apparel industry is considerably higher than in manufacturing, due mainly to the nature of the 

industry and its labor force. Consequently, it may be very difficult 

to achieve an unemployment rate in apparel corresponding at all closely 

with the rate for manufacturing as a whole, even in periods of high-level 

activity.

3/ BLS employment (payroll) data prior to 1958 are not available 

separately for three industry groups— miscellaneous fabricated textile 

products; fur goods and miscellaneous apparel; and hats, caps, and 

millinery.

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Labor Turnover

Separation rates in the apparel industry, unlike in textile mills, 

rose little between 1958 and 1967 (Appendix table 3). However, the 

quit rate in the industry in 1967 was significantly higher than in 1958, 

indicating expanding job opportunities for the industryfs workforce. 

Throughout the period, however, separation rates in the apparel industry have been considerably higher than in manufacturing generally, 

indicating relative instability in the industry. Much of this instability can be traced to the existence of numerous small firms, and the high 

rate of business mortality for such operations. In addition, seasonal 

fluctuations in activity, and the high proportion of women workers would 

tend to result in relatively high separation rates.

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II. INDUSTRY LOCATION 

A. Textiles

Regionally, the textile industry is heavily concentrated in the 

South and the Northeast. In 1968, almost 70 percent of the industryfs 

workers were employed in the Southern States (Appendix table 4). Three 

Southern States— North Carolina, South Carolina, and Georgia— accounted 

for more than half of textile employment. The Northeast, however, also 

employed large numbers of textile workers, accounting for more than 

one-fourth of the industryfs employment in 1968. Within the Northeast, 

New York and Pennsylvania had particularly large concentrations of textile workers (6 and 7 percent, respectively). The North Central and 

Pacific States together accounted for less than 5 percent of the industry’s workers.

The textile industry is predominately located outside metropolitan 

areas, unlike the typical manufacturing industry. In 1967, 61 percent 

of the industry’s employment was located in nonmetropolitan areas, as 

compared with about 21 percent of manufacturing employment (Appendix 

table 6). However, this proportion varies greatly by region and State 

(Appendix table 7). In the Northeast, textile employment in nonmetropolitan areas ranged from 2 percent in Massachusetts to 29 percent in 

Pennsylvania. In the South, however, most of the industry is located 

in nonmetropolitan areas. In the three Southern States containing over 

half the industry’s workers, employment in nonmetropolitan areas ranged 

from 70 percent in Georgia to 86 percent in North Carolina.

Employment in 1967 in textiles and apparel, and in the two industries combined, as percentages of manufacturing employment, is shown in 

Appendix table 9 for selected States!/ and, within these States, for all 

metropolitan areas, for selected specific metropolitan areas, and for 

nonmetropolitan areas. These data are highly significant, for they show 

the great importance of these industries as a source of employment in 

many areas. Together, the two industries account for more than 12 percent of total manufacturing employment.

The textile industry alone in 1967 provided almost 5 percent of 

employment in manufacturing as a whole. In South Carolina, the industry 

accounted for 46 percent of all-jobs in manufacturing, and for slightly 

more than half of the factory jobs in the State’s nonmetropolitan areas. 

In North Carolina, the proportions were 41 percent for the State as a 

whole and 47 percent for nonmetropolitan areas. About a quarter of all 

factory jobs in Georgia were in textiles, including almost a third of 

those in nonmetropolitan areas.

1/ The selected States represent 84 percent of total textile 

employment •

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In a substantial number of specific metropolitan areas, textile 

employment represents 25 percent or more of all jobs in manufacturing. 

Such areas include Fayetteville, Greensboro-High Point, and WinstonSalem in North Carolina; Auguste and Greenville in South Carolina; and 

Albany, Columbus, and Macon in Georgia.

Textile industry payrolls are of particular importance to the 

economic health of many small communities in nonmetropolitan areas.

Such communities, because of their relatively small size, their dependence on textile production, and their lack of industrial diversification may be adversely affected to a more marked extent than large areas 

by significant changes in textile output and employment.

B. Apparel

The apparel industry is somewhat less concentrated regionally than 

the textile industry. In 1968, about 46 percent of the apparel workers 

were employed in the Northeast, mostly in New York and Pennsylvania 

(Appendix table 5)• The South accounted for 36 percent and the North 

Central States for 11 percent of the industryfs workers. Within these 

two regions, however, no State accounted for more than 5 percent of total 

apparel employment. More than 6 percent of apparel industry employment 

was found in the West, with the largest concentration in California.

In terms of metropolitan areas, the location of the apparel industry more nearly than textiles approximates that of manufacturing as a 

whole (Appendix table 6). In 1967, about 35 percent of the apparel 

industry’s workers were employed outside metropolitan areas, as compared with about 21 percent of manufacturing employment. In the South, 

however, as in the case of textiles, the apparel industry is located 

predominantly in nonmetropolitan areas (Appendix table 8).

The data in Appendix table 92J show the great importance of apparel 

employment in 1967 in several major metropolitan areas— notably New 

York City, where apparel accounted for almost one-fourth of all jobs 

in manufacturing, and Jersey City, where the proportion was about 17 

percent. It was also highly significant in a number of smaller metropolitan areas in both the North and South— for example, in Atlantic 

City, New Jersey, where apparel contributed 40 percent of manufacturing 

jobs; Binghamton, New York-Pennsylvania, 21 percent; Johnstown, Pennsylvania, 20 percent; Scranton and Wilkes-Barre-Hazleton, Pennsylvania,

32 and 38 percent, respectively; Wilmington, North Carolina, 22 percent; 

Greenville, South Carolina, 17 percent; and El Paso and Laredo, Texas,

57 and 24 percent, respectively.

2/ The table contains data for States with about 83 percent of 

total apparel employment.

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In nonmetropolitan areas, apparel employment constituted a significant proportion of total manufacturing employment in many of the 

selected States represented in Appendix table 9. In fact, the proportion exceeded 10 percent in 10 of the 14 selected States, and 20 

percent in 4 of those States. These figures clearly suggest that 

apparel manufacture constitutes a major source of employment in many 

small communities over a broad geographic area.

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III. ESTABLISHMENT SIZE

A. Textiles

The distribution of textile workers by size of establishment did

not differ markedly in 1967 from the distribution for manufacturing

as a whole (Appendix table 10). A somewhat greater proportion of textile workers were employed in establishments w ith 100 to 499 workers

than in manufacturing, and a slightly smaller proportion in establishments with 1 to 99 employees. About the same proportion of the industry's workers (45 percent) were employed in large establishments with

500 or more workers. The average textile mill, however, was considerably larger than the average manufacturing plant. Almost two-thirds

of all manufacturing establishments in 1967 employed 19 or fewer w o r k ­

ers, whereas in textiles only 37 percent of the establishments were of

this size (Appendix table 11). Textile mills were almost three times

as likely to have 500 or m o r e employees than manufacturing plants in

1966.

One reason for the relatively large size of textile plants is

that long production runs are possible for m a n y of the products of the

industry. Manufacturing plants that have long runs of standardized

products tend to be large in size. M u c h of the output of the industry

is sold to other manufacturers for further fabrication. In contrast,

m any manufacturing industries, especially those selling a large p r o ­

portion of their products to consumers, cannot so readily take advantage of economies oir scale. Another reason for the relatively large

size of textile plants is that it is relatively simple to shift production runs among types of blended fabrics.

A trend toward larger-size establishments exists in manufacturing

generally. Between 1962 and 1967, a period of rapid economic growth,

the proportion of textile establishments with 1 to 19 employees fell

2.9 percentage points. A similar decline occurred in manufacturing as

a whole. In both manufacturing and textiles the recent trend in establishment size is in the direction of plants wit h 250 or m o r e employees.

Between 1962 and 1967, textile plants wit h 250 or mor e workers increased

from 12.6 percent to 14.4 percent of the total. In manufacturing the

increase of these larger-size plants was from 4 to 4.8 percent.

B. Apparel

In the apparel industry, the distribution of workers by size of

establishment is considerably different than in manufacturing. A p ­

parel workers are m u c h m o r e likely to be employed in small establishments wit h between 20 and 99 workers (Appendix table 10). In 1967,

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almost one-third of the industry's workers were employed in these

small establishments, as compared with less than one-fifth in m a n u ­

facturing. Moreover, only 1 of every 6 workers in the apparel industry was employed in establishments with 500 or mor e workers, as compared wit h almost 1 of every 2 workers in manufacturing generally.

Apparel plants tend to be relatively small for reasons the reverse

of those making for comparatively large plants in textiles. Apparel

plants produce a great variety of products, with fashion and design an

important ingredient. Production runs are typically short. Moreover,

technology in the apparel industry is simple. Often all that is needed

to set up a plant is an idea and a small investment in equipment. Many

employers begin production with only an investment in material inventories by utilizing the facilities of apparel industry contractors.

As in manufacturing and in the textile industry, apparel plants

are becoming larger, but the trend is not as pronounced in apparel as

in manufacturing, and considerably less so than in the textile industry.

In 1967, a slightly larger proportion of apparel plants employed between

20 and 99 workers than in 1962 (Appendix table 11). The proportion of

plants with 1 to 19 workers declined almost 3 percentage points (from

51.8 to 49.1 percent), whereas those with mor e than 250 employees increased from 3.0 to 4.2 percent of the total. These statistics seem to

indicate that with the current state of technology and industry practice,

relatively small 20-99 employee-size plants represent the predominant

standard for the industry. There is some tendency toward the growth

of large plants, and the very small plant is declining in importance.

The absolute number of establishments in the apparel and textile

industries is impressive. In 1967, apparel establishments numbered

25,498 and textile establishments 7,083. The two industries combined

accounted for about 11 percent of all manufacturing establishments.!.'

1j The data are from Bureau of the Census, County Business

P a t t e r n s . 1 9 6 7 . Technically, the numbers refer to "reporting units"

which for manufacturing are conceptually identical with "establishments" as used in censuses of manufactures.

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IV. L A BOR FORCE CHARACTERISTICS: SKILL, EDUCATION,

RACE, SEX AND AGE

A. Textiles

Skill

Textile mills have a high proportion of semiskilled workers for

a manufacturing industry (Appendix table 12). In 1968, two-thirds

of the industry's w o r k force were classified as operatives, as compared w i t h less than 45 percent in all manufacturing. The proportions

of textile m i l l workers in the remaining blue collar occupations—

craftsmen and laborers— were b e low the average for manufacturing.

Blue collar workers as a whole m a d e up almost 85 percent of employment

in the industry in 1968, as compared w i t h only about 70 percent in

m a n u f a c t u r i n g .

White collar workers (professional and technical, managers and

officials, clerical and sales) m a d e up about 14 percent of employment

in textiles in 1968. In the same year, white collar workers in m a n u ­

facturing m a d e up about 30 percent of total employment. The small

share of jobs held by professional workers is one reason for the low

proportion of white collar workers in textiles. The proportion of

professional workers was four times higher in manufacturing (almost 10

percent) than in textile m i lls (about 3 percent). F ew scientists,

engineers, and technicians were employed in the industry, reflecting

the relatively low emphasis on research and development.

The high concentration of semiskilled workers in the textile industry is m a i n l y a result of the nature of the production process. A l ­

though highly mechanized, the transformation of wool, cotton, and synthetic fibers into yarn and fabric involves m a n y discrete operations,

w h ich require large numbers of machine tenders. A lthough skill levels

have been rising in the textile industry in recent years, less skilled

workers w i l l continue to m a k e up a relatively high proportion of the

industry's w o r k force in the foreseeable future.

Education

The educational attainment level of textile mill workers was significantly lower than that of manufacturing workers in 1960 (Appendix

table 13). The me d i a n school years completed for textile worker^ was

slightly less than 8.0 in 1960, as compared w i t h 11.0 in manufacturing.

The textile industry had a higher proportion of workers w i t h 7 or fewer

years of education, and a smaller proportion of workers with 4 years of

high school- or 1 or m o r e years of college.

M a n y characteristics of the textile w o r k force contribute to the

low educational attainment in the industry. The skill requirements of

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the industry are relatively low. The high proportion of operatives

contributes significantly to the low educational attainment, as does

the comparatively small proportion of professional and technical

workers, who typically have some college education. The textile work

force also tends to be older than that of the typical manufacturing

industry, further contributing to the low educational attainment. M o r e ­

over, the industry is largely located outside metropolitan areas. In

general, urban dwellers tend to have higher educational attainment than

non-urban residents. An indication of the importance of the contribution of factors other than skill level to educational attainment is

that operatives (n.e.c.), who mad e up almost half of the i n d u s t r y ’s

workers in 1960, had an average educational attainment of 8.5 years,

whereas operatives (n.e.c.) in manufacturing had 9.4 years.

Race

In 1968, nonwhite workers, as Appendix table 14 shows, made up

about the same proportion of employment in textile mills (9.5 percent)

as in manufacturing (9.7 percent). Nonwhite women, however, held a

larger proportion of the jobs in textiles (3.6 percent) than in m a n u ­

facturing (2.6 percent). For nonwhite men, the situation was reversed;

a lower proportion of employment in textile mills was composed of nonwhite m en (6.0 percent) than in manufacturing (7.1 percent).

In recent years, the proportion of nonwhite workers has been increasing in the textile industry, signaling some breaking down of employment barriers. Between 1962 and 1968, the proportion of nonwhite

women in textiles more than tripled, from 1.1 to 3.6 percent. The change

represents an increase of about 30,000 jobs over the period. Nonwhite

m e n also increased their share of jobs in the industry in the same period, from about 3.7 to 6.0 percent. Taken together, nonwhite m e n and

women held about 55,000 more jobs in textile mills in 1968 than in 1962.

Over the 6-year period, gains for nonwhite women were steady, whereas

most of the increase for nonwhite m en occurred after 1965. Although

increased participation of nonwhites was typical throughout ma n u f a c t u r ­

ing during the period, the trend was more pronounced in textiles. Between 1962 and 1968, the proportion of nonwhite workers increased from

7.4 to 9.7 percent in manufacturing, as compared with a gain of from

4.8 percent to 9.5 percent in textiles. The upward trend appears to be

continuing into 1969.

Several factors m a y have contributed to the recent nonwhite gains

in employment in textiles. The high level of economic activity in

recent years m ay have encouraged some white textile workers to seek

alternative employments. At the same time, the demand for workers by

the industry was expanding. The market for textile workers tightened.

In this situation, nonwhite workers, with typically lower labor force

participation and higher unemployment rates, were available to fill

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the pressing employment needs of the industry. In addition, the

Civil Rights Act of 1964, government programs to end discrimination

in hiring, and private initiatives, probably all contributed to the

accelerated flow of nonwhite workers into the textile industry.

Whether nonwhite workers can mai n t a i n and increase their representation in the industry remains to be seen. Current data indicate that

nonwhite workers are continuing to m o v e into the textile industry at

a higher rate than into manufacturing generally.

Employment of Negroes accounted for a varying proportion of total

textile employment by State in 1966 J J Negro employment ranged from

about 2 percent of the textile w o r k force in Massachusetts to about 13

percent in N e w Jersey (Appendix table 15). Negroes tended to m a k e up a

larger proportion of textile employment in metropolitan (10 percent)

than in nonmetropolitan areas (7 percent). In the three largest textile manufacturing States, North Carolina, South Carolina, and Georgia,

the employment of nonwhites ranged from 8 to 10 percent.

Women Workers

W o men workers m a k e up a m u c h higher proportion of employment in the

textile industry than in manufacturing. In 1967, about 45 percent of

textile workers were women, as compared with approximately 27 percent

in m anufacturing (Appendix table 17). The high proportion of women in

textiles can be attributed in part to the concentration of semiskilled

workers in the industry. Women made up nearly one-half of semi-skilled

workers (operatives) in nondurable manufacturing in 1960. Moreover, the

nature of demand for the products of the industry m ay help to explain

the high proportion of women. Textile production is responsive to wide

seasonal and cyclical fluctuations in demand. Women, m o r e easily than

men, can provide a reservoir of labor to meet the peak labor needs of

the, industry. Finally, historical precedent m a y play a role in the

high proportion of women in the industry.

Employment of women varied widely wit h i n the various components

of the textile industry in 1967. Women workers ranged from 68 percent

of employment in knitting mills to 25 percent of employment in textile

finishing (except wool and k n i t ) . The uneven distribution of women in

the industry can be partially explained by variations in the occupational structure of its various divisions. The proportion of women

workers in the industry increased between 1960 and 1967.

1/ Based on Equal Employment Opportunity Commission data. Such

data are contained in (1) reports from all employers subject to Title

VII of the Civil Rights Act of 1964 (generally those wit h 100 or m o r e

employees) and from Federal Government contractors and subcontractors

w i t h 50 or more employees, and (2) voluntarily submitted reports by

members of Plans for Progress.

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Age

The median age of textile mil l workers (40.7 years) was somewhat

higher than that of all manufacturing workers (39.5 years) in 1960.

The age differential was m a inly caused by workers over 44 years of age

(Appendix table 18). Nearly 39 percent of the textile workers were

over 44 in 1960, as compared with 35 percent in manufacturing. This

relatively high proportion of workers over 44 m a y reflect the contraction of employment in the industry by more than one-quarter between 1950

and 1960. Younger workers, either laid off or fearing layoffs, m a y have

tended to find employment in other industries during this uncertain

period. Another factor contributing to the high medi a n age of textile

workers m a y be the relatively high proportion of women in the industry.

Women usually leave the labor force at about 25 years of age, and begin

to return soon after age 40, when family responsibilities become less

burdensome. The fact that the textile w o r k force has a low proportion

of workers between the ages of 25 and 44 would tend to emphasize the

importance of women workers on the age structure of the industry. In

addition, the historical population migration from rural to urban areas

also influences the age composition of the industry. Located mainly in

nonmetropolitan areas, the textile industry is probably mor e affected

by the m i g r ation of younger workers than most other industries.

Youths under 19 years of age tended to hold a disproportionately

low number of jobs in textile mills in 1960. The same phenomena was

exhibited in 1950, although somewhat less markedly. However, the share

of jobs held by youths under 25 years of age (13.9 percent) was similar

to that for the same age group in manufacturing (14.1 percent). A l ­

though the work force of the textile industry grew older between 1950

and 1960, the age structure of all manufacturing also shifted upward.

In 1960, 4.5 percent m o r e workers in manufacturing were over 44 than

in 1950, as compared with 8.9 percent in textiles.

B. Apparel

Skill

The apparel industry has the highest concentration of semi-skilled

jobs of any manufacturing industry (Appendix table 12). In 1968, operatives made up almost 80 percent of employment in the industry, as compared with about 45 percent in manufacturing generally. It is estimated that nearly half of the operatives in the apparel industry were

sewers, either sewing machine operators, who predominated, or hand

stitchers.

In apparel, as in textiles, the nature of the manufacturing process

accounts for the high concentration of comparatively low-skilled workers.

The number of production operations on a garment is large, production

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runs are typically short, and firms tend to be small and frequently

undercapitalized. Such conditions are not conducive to widespread

use of sophisticated production equipment. The industry is one of

the least mechanized among manufacturing industries. For example,

very few machines are in operation in the industry which link together various functions in the production process. As in the textile industry, the occupational patterns of the apparel industry will

continue to favor the unskilled and semi-skilled worker in the foreseeable future.

Education

In the apparel industry, the educational attainment of workers

was also significantly lower than for workers in all manufacturing,

but somewhat higher than for workers in textiles. In 1960, the average schooling of apparel industry workers was 9.7 years, as compared

with 11.0 years in manufacturing (Appendix table 13). As in the textile industry, a larger proportion of the apparel wor k force had 7 or

less years of education, and a smaller proportion had 4 years of high

school or 1 or more years of college, than for manufacturing workers

as a whole.

Most of the factors that contributed to the low educational attainment of textile workers are found also in the apparel industry. As compared with textiles, however, the fact that the apparel industry is mor e

heavily represented in metropolitan areas probably accounts for m u c h of

the difference in educational levels b e tween the two industries.

Race

In the apparel industry, nonwhite workers in 1968 made up a somewhat larger share of employment (12.7 percent) than in all manufacturing

(9.7 percent) (Appendix table 14). As in the textile industry, the proportion of jobs held by nonwhite workers has increased in recent years.

Between 1962 and 1968, nonwhite employment increased from 9.3 to 12.7

percent in apparel, as compared with an increase from 7.4 to 9.7 percent

in manufacturing. Practically all the gain in nonwhite penetration of

the apparel industry occurred after 1965. Preliminary data indicate

that the gain continued into 1969.

Nonwhite m e n in the apparel industry have actually declined slightly

as a proportion over the years. The proportion was 2.8 percent in 1962

and 2.6 percent in 1968. In terms of numbers, nonwhite m a l e employment

in apparel was about the same in 1962 and 1968. Over the period, n onwhite m a l e workers m a y have found more attractive alternative employment

opportunities in the metropolitan areas where apparel firms are located.

The increased proportion of nonwhite women workers, which more than

offset the proportionate decline of nonwhite men, probably resulted from

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the generally tight labor market situation between 1965 and 1968.

Alternative employment opportunities for white women m a y have widened,

thus opening up opportunities for nonwhite women that would not otherwise have existed.

Negro employment by State in the apparel industry in 1966 ranged

from about 4 percent in Tennessee to about 16 percent in South Carolina

(Appendix table 16). As in textile mills, Negroes in apparel also tended

to make up a larger share of employment in metropolitan than in n o n metropolitan areas. About 12 percent of apparel industry employment in m e t r o ­

politan areas was composed of Negroes, as against only about 6 percent

in nonmetropolitan areas. In the three largest apparel manufacturing

States, Pennsylvania, N ew York, and Georgia, Negro employment ranged

between 9 and 11 percent.

Women Workers

In the apparel industry, women m ake up an extremely high proportion of employment— nearly 80 percent in 1967 (Appendix table 17).

Operative jobs predominate in the industry, and their nature helps

largely to explain the concentration of women. The major occupational

group comprises sewing machine operators and hand stitchers and is

staffed almost entirely by women. Moreover, like the textile industry,

the apparel industry is seasonal in nature and subject to cyclical

swings, and women provide a flexible source of labor supply.

Between 1960 and 1967, the proportion of women workers in the

apparel industry increased by about 2 percentage points. This increase

in the female participation rate can be attributed to a mor e rapid growth

of industry groups within the apparel industry that employ a larger than

average proportion of women.

Age

Workers in apparel had the highest median age level of any major

manufacturing industry in 1960— 41.7 years, as compared with 39.5 years

for workers in manufacturing (Appendix table 18). About 41 percent of

apparel workers were over 44 years of age in 1960; the comparable figure in manufacturing was about 35 percent. As in the textile industry,

the high proportion of women workers was probably the m a i n cause of this

peculiar age structure. A relatively high proportion of apparel industry workers were over 59 years of age (9.1 percent). This m a y be partly

a reflection of wage levels in the industry, and partly of its seasonal

nature, which provides an opportunity for m a n y older workers to supplement their retirement incomes by employment during peak seasons.

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Youths under 25 held a share of apparel employment equal to that

in manufacturing. However, the apparel industry tended to serve more

as a source of entry level jobs in 1950 than it did in 1960. Youths

under 25 m a d e up 2.5 percent m o r e of the w o r k force in apparel in 1950

than in manufacturing in 1950. In 1960, however, the differential had

been reduced to 0.1 percent.

Although the wor k force of the apparel industry (like the textile

industry) grew older between 1950 and 1960, the age structure of all

manufacturing similarly shifted. Between 1950 and 1960, the proportion of workers over 44 years of age increased by 4.5 percent in m a n u ­

facturing and by 7.8 percent in apparel.

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V. TECHNOLOGICAL CHANGE

A, Textiles

Operating Characteristics

The basic production processes of the textile industry are

carried out on highly mechanized power machinery such as semiautomatic spinning frames and automatic looms. Modern mills are laid

out on one floor with wor k moving readily from one stage to the

next. M a n y multistoried plants, however, still exist in the industry.

The w o r k is machine rather than worker paced. The typical textile worker tends or minds long rows of identical machines in carding,

spinning, weaving, and other rooms of a mill. Most of the wor k is

physically light. The operative m a y feed yarn to and remove yarn

from the machine when necessary and watch out for breaks in yarn which

he must repair quickly. Tasks usually can be learned in a short time

but proficiency comes with experience on the job.

Although textile production was among the first industries to be

mechanized, the industry remains relatively labor intensive. Wages

of production workers constituted 43 percent of value added, compared

with 31 percent for manufacturing as a whole in 1966. Despite some

increase since 1948, capital invested (book value) per production

worker in 1963 (as estimated by the National Industrial Conference

Board) was a little over half the ratio for all manufacturing. This

relationship probably still holds true for recent years.

M anpower Utilization

E ffo r t s to improve the u t i l i z a t io n o f manpower in the t e x t i l e 

in d u stry are co n sta n tly bein g made through changes in te ch n o lo g y , 

management, and o r g a n iz a tio n . The m odern ization o f p la n t and eq u ip ­

ment in recen t yea rs has been advanced by s u b s ta n tia l c a p it a l in v e s tm ent, and by the emergence o f v e r t i c a l l y in te g ra te d companies w ith 

more p r o fe s s io n a l management.

D e fin it iv e fig u r e s on tren ds in output per man-hour in the t e x t i l e 

in d u stry are n ot a v a ila b le . In a d d itio n to the usual problem s o f d e te r ­

m ining the b e st measure o f output f o r in d iv id u a l p ro d u cts, a ssig n in g 

a p p rop ria te w eig h ts, and a ch iev in g rea son a b le com p a ra b ility between 

man-hours and ou tp u t, th ere are e s p e c ia lly com plex problem s o f a ccou n ting fo r changes in q u a lity and prod u ct mix and in the d egree o f in te g r a ­

t io n o f p ro d u ctio n f a c i l i t i e s .

A general v i e w of changes in manpower utilization in recent years

m a y be obtained from estimates of the rise in output and of the change

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in man-hours. Rough estimates indicate an increase in the range of

36-46 percent in textile output between 1960 and 1966, and a rise in

all employee man-hours in the neighborhood of 8 percent. These estimates relate to the textile industry as a whole. Among the individual

sectors of the industry, substantial variations undoubtedly occurred.

Interplant Differences in Performance

Levels of performance differ widely among plants w i thin the

textile industry, because of differences in capital investment, age

of equipment, managerial and employee skill, size, type of organization, and other factors. A rough gauge of the differences in p e r ­

formance is provided by Department of Commerce measures for m ore efficient and average mills. The "highest productivity establishments" are

defined as those in approximately the first quartile of establishments

ranked in ascending order of the ratio of payrolls to value added. In

the cotton broadwoven fabric industry, for example, value added per

employee for the "highest productivity establishments" was 60 percent

greater than the industry average in 1963. Although the precise extent

to w h ich such differences reflect variations in product m i x among plants

in each industry is unknown, significant differences in performance

probably accounted for most of the disparity.

Some Factors Affecting Industry Performance

Investment and R e s e a r c h . Advances in technology and efficiency

over the next few years will be affected by the m agnitude of recent

expenditures on large-scale modernization of textile plant and equipment. In the period 1964-68, expenditures on n e w plant and equipment,

as reported by SEC, amounted to a total of $4.6 billion, or an average

of about $916 mil l i o n annually. During the preceding five years, expenditures were a little m o r e than half of this amount. In 1968, total expenditures on n e w plant and equipment were $820 million, considerably below

the 1966 peak of $1.13 billion, but greater than any year prior to 1965.

Estimates through 1970 anticipate gradually rising expenditures.

The bulk of capital expenditure since 1960 has b een for m o d e r n i ­

zation and replacement, but the proportion for additional capacity has

been increasing. Textile capacity, according to McGraw-Hill reports,

increased by 31 percent between 1962 and 1967. A m u c h larger proportion of the i n d u s t r y ’s equipment is no w five years old or less: 38

percent in December 1966 compared wit h 27 percent in spring 1962. This

improvement in the textile i n d u s t r y ’s equipment compares favorably w i t h

advances m a d e by manufacturing generally: about 36 percent of m a n u f a c ­

turing capacity was five years old or less in 1966, compared w i t h 33

percent in 1962. By the end of 1968, according to McGraw-Hill reports,

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about 17 percent of the plant and equipment of larger textile companies was outmoded compared with 29 percent in 1962. It is likely that

the proportion of out-of-date facilities for smaller companies would

be considerably larger.

Increased expenditures on research and development are another facet

of the i n d u s t r y ’s efforts to modernize its technology. According to

National Science Foundation estimates, R and D expenditures by textile

and apparel firms totaled $42 m i l lion in 1966, compared wit h $15 million

in 1957. Most of these expenditures were by textile firms; research

expenditures by apparel manufacturers were negligible. (These figures

do not include expenditures by textile machinery manufacturers and

chemical suppliers.) R and D expenditures in textiles and apparel as

a percentage of sales are insignificant in comparison with expenditures

by some other industries, such as paper, which also do not receive

Federal funds for this purpose.

It should be noted that a high proportion of expenditures for n e w plant

and equipment and for R and D is m a d e by a relatively small number of

large companies. About three-fourths of n e w capital expenditures in

1963 were mad e by multiplant companies, which included only about

one-fourth of all establishments. Practically all of the R and D is

done by large- and medium-sized companies. Small companies usually

lack the financial resources for extensive capital investment or research and development programs.

Technological C h a n g e s . Capital investment whether for expansion

or modernization provides opportunities for introducing the latest

types of textile equipment. Most of the changes in textile technology

involve improvements of existing machinery, and the introduction of

auxiliary devices to improve output per man-hour.

1. Faster, Larger Capacity M a c h i n e s . One of the most

important sources of greater productivity is the introduction of faster

machine speeds w i t h larger packages. Such advances reduce the number of

machines and the number of machine operatives and maintenance workers

required for a given output. N e w carding machines, for example, operate

at m o r e than four times the speed of 10 years ago, drawing machines at

six times the speed. Spindle speeds were 10,000 r.p.m. in 1950 and

13,500 today; 20,000 r.p.m. are n ow possible. Winding speeds are at

least double those of 10 to 15 years ago. Conventional loom speeds increased 25 to 50 percent in the past 15 years and shuttleless looms m a y

soon double the speed of weaving. Machine output of hosiery and other

knitting equipment, due to multiple feeds, also is rising very significantly. Carpets are n o w produced m a inly by high-speed tufting machinery,

rather than by the slower weaving process.

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These types of machine advances have been partly re ­

sponsible for the decline in the amount of capital equipment needed

for a given volume of production. Moreover, increased mach i n e r y utilization with three shift operations and better management have reduced

the number of machines required for a given output. In 1967, for

example, output of cotton and manmade fabric was about 25 percent above

1948, despite a 21 percent decline in the number of looms.

2. M echanization of Materials H a n d l i n g . Requirements for

ma n u a l labor for materials handling are also reduced by improved conveyor

systems and pneumatic chutes. M o r e widespread adoption of mechanical

transfer of goods between the m a n y discrete textile processes is significant, since materials handling comprises 5 to 15 percent of production

costs. Improved powered conveyors, hoists, monorails, tramrails, and

forklift trucks are being utilized increasingly at all steps, from raw

m aterial to finished product. Mechanized handling is particularly important in improving process flow in the older mult i s t o r y mills, and in

handling heavier m a c hine packages, such as 80 to 90 pound laps. P n e u ­

ma t i c stock conveyance, a m ore advanced method moves stock by air and

greatly increases productivity but is costly and still limited in use.

3. M a i n t e n a n c e . Built-in m a intenance reduces requirements

for maint e n a n c e workers. Central lubrication and sealed antifriction

bearings result in less downtime and practically eliminates manual

lubrication. Roller bearings on n e w drawing frames require oiling only

once every three years during overhaul, compared w i t h once a w eek on

older models. In at least one of the n e w mills, all production machines

are equipped with an automatic lubrication system in w h ich oil enters

through lines in the floor and is pumped to lubrication points on each

m a chine once every minute.

Automatic devices for cleaning and for atmospheric control,

n o w gaining industry acceptance, free machine tenders for m o r e productive

duties. Cleaning m a y constitute as m u c h as 20 percent of total labor

costs in yarn mills. To reduce the amount of lint and fly on high speed

machinery, suction devices are installed on the m achine at points of

discharge. In addition, a traveling monorail cleaner, wh i c h automatically blows residue off machine frames, vacuums the floor, and pne u m a t i ­

cally carries the waste to the waste room, eliminates the need for m a i n ­

tenance laborers.

A potentially useful process, still limited to a few of

the newest plants, is the system of total air cleaning. This system

forces the air down from overhead ducts, carrying the lint laden air

w i t h it, to ducts under the floor. The air, filtered of waste, is

returned to the overhead ducts. Plant efficiency is increased, but the

system is said to be too costly for the average mill.

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4. I n s trumentation, Electronic instrumentation for

control of operations is limited, but growing in importance. Such

auxiliary devices as stop m o tion devices, and continuous recording

and controlling instruments which replace visual scanning or other

slower methods of inspection, reduce downtime, and permit m o r e efficient quality control. Some of the newer electronic devices activate

mac h i n e changes when a defect is detected. For example, y a m thickness is controlled by a photoelectric cell on a drawing m achine which

detects the difference in light passing through the yarn and signals

an electromagnetic clutch which adjusts the machine automatically.

Mechanical and electronic counters and central m o n i ­

toring systems are being utilized increasingly for cost and quality

control. A n electronic monitoring system, for example, which records

the performance of every loom on a central console, visually and in

printed reports, is n o w being utilized in the newest mills.

Computers are used by large companies for data processing accounting, inventory and production control, and are being extended to control finishing processes. Uses in finishing involve control of continuous bleaching and dyeing operations, and dye color

matching to determine the least expensive combination of dyestuffs to

m a tch colors, systematically rather than by trial and error.

5. Machine and Material I n n o v a t i o n s . Several far-reaching

innovations, such as automatic creeling and doffing increase productivity substantially but relatively high cost m a y limit their adoption.

Progress is being m a d e toward a system of continuous automatic production w h ich would integrate several processes and reduce the number of

operations performed by workers. An advanced system of continuous

manufacture, first used in Japan, integrates operations from opening

through carding and improves other operations. Claims of expected increases in output per man-hour range from 70 percent to 100 percent

above conventional mills. This innovation, however, m a y be economically

feasible only in highly specialized plants.

In addition to mechanical changes in production methods,

innovations in fibers, fabrics, and finishes, such as stretch yarns and

fabrics, laminated and coated fabrics, and nonwoven fabrics, could have

an impact on textile production, opening n e w markets or displacing m o r e

conventional fabrics. Some n e w types of fabric formation (needle punch

and bonded) bypass spinning, weaving, or knitting processes and have

m u c h lower labor requirements than woven fabrics.

Finally, continuing growth in use of manmade fibers, p a r ­

ticularly noncellulosics, has an important effect on reducing manpower

requirements. M a n made filament yarn, for example, does not require conventional preparatory mill operations. By 1975, manmade fibers are

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expected to account for as m u c h as 65 percent of total fiber consumption (cotton equivalent basis) compared with 57 percent in 1966,

Adjustments to Technological Change

Private A r r a n g e m e n t s . Formal provisions for worker adjustment

to technological change are found primarily in plants w i t h union agreements and even these are few in number. Contracts usually provide for

the principle of seniority as a measure of protection for the employee

displaced by technological developments, although various limitations

m a y be included. Some contracts contain provisions which require

advance notice to the union, union review, or a trial period for the

proposed technological change.

Technological changes w h i c h affect the pace of w ork— "speedup"

(i.e., the installation of faster machines or the speeding up of old

machines) and "stretchout" (i.e., increasing the number of machines

assigned to the w o r k e r ) — are a m a jor topic of labor-management discussion. In some contracts, workload assignments are subject to a review

by the union and m ay be submitted to arbitration.

Industry training or retraining generally involves the traditional

m e t h o d of learning on the job by assisting an experienced employee.

Some mills, however, have adopted a m ore formal approach to training,

involving the setting aside of training areas and the establishment of

classes for instructional purposes. Machine manufacturers are also involved in training, particularly in the installation of radically ne w

e q u i p m e n t •

Government P r o g r a m s . Under the Manpower Development and Training

Act of 1962 and the Area Redevelopment Act of 1961, the Federal Governm ent has financed institutional and on-the-job training programs for

under-employed and unemployed workers for existing job vacancies in textile mills in several localities. These programs include former textile

workers, but are not limited to them, and no data are available on the

proportion of trainees who were previously in the textile industry.

Between August 1962, when the M D T A program began, and June 1968, almost

6,000 workers were trained for m a n y textile occupations. Occupations

for training are determined on the basis of current local requirements,

and m a y (as in the case of laborers) be on the decline in the long run

for the national industry. The number of trainees and the duration of

training in occupations wit h over 100 trainees are presented in the

following table:

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Occupation Number of

trainees

Duration of

training

(weeks)

Weaver ..................... 1,273 5-39

Loom fixer ................. 537 9-52

Spinner ..................... 907 4-30

Knitting machine operator. 347 4-26

Doffer ..................... 375 5-20

Laborer .................... 276 4

Thrower .................... 266 4-52

Y a r n winder ............... 108 4-20

Other ...................... 1,092 —

Labor shortages for particular occupations in some plants and

localities continue to require training programs in spite of the p r o ­

spect of declining employment for the industry as a whole. Also, since

textile skills are not easily transferable to other industries, une m ­

ployed textile workers often need retraining in order to qualify for

other types of work.

In v i e w of the limited scope of formal industry arrangements for

adjustment to technological change, government institutions for u n e m ­

ployment insurance, placement, and retraining play a major role in

assisting the textile worker in the event of plant closings and mass

layoffs.

B. Apparel

Operating Characteristics

Apparel manufacturing involves a series of cutting, sewing, p r e s ­

sing and packing operations performed primarily on m anually operated

single purpose machines. Some or all of these operations are carried

on by manufacturers, jobbers or contractors who comprise the 25,900

establishments in the industry. About 73 percent had fewer than 50

employees. Numerous styles and sizes of a particular type of apparel

are produced, generally in small lots.

The simple technology of apparel manufa c t u r i n g — ma i n l y sewing

m a c h i n e s — is highly labor intensive. Each machine is operated by a

worker. Capital invested per production worker in 1963 amounted to

$5,653, about half the ratio for textile m i l l products and about a

fourth of the manufacturing ratio. Wages of production workers as a

proportion of value added in 1966 amounted to 44 percent, compared with

31 percent for manufacturing.

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The apparel industry is marked by easy entry, both by workers

and owners. Women of all ages can quickly acquire the skill needed

to become sewing machine operators, the m a jor occupational group.

Since the equipment requires little engineering or technical kn o w l ­

edge, and the marketing and materials are handled by jobbers, it is

relatively easy for an entrepreneur with a modest amount of capital

to set up a plant as a contractor.

Manpower Utilization

Definitive figures are not available on output per man-h o u r in

the apparel industry. In addition to the usual problems of determining the best m easure of output of individual products, assigning appropriate weights, and achieving reasonable comparability between man-hours

and output, there are especially complex problems of accounting for

changes in quality and product mix.

A general v i e w of the changes in manpower utilization in recent

years m a y be obtained from estimates of the rise in output and of the

change in man-hours. Rough estimates indicate an increase of the order

of 30 to 34 percent in apparel output between 1960 and 1966 and a rise

in all employee man-hours of less than 14 percent. These estimates re ­

late to the apparel industry as a whole. Substantial variations un ­

doubtedly occurred among the individual sectors of the industry.

Some Factors Affecting Industry Performance

I n v e s t m e n t . The i n d u s t r y fs expenditures for n e w plant and equipment, though increasing, is among the lowest per production worker

among manufacturing industries. Expenditures averaged $144.6 mi l l i o n

($123 per production worker) over the 1962-66 period, compared w ith

$89.7 m i l l i o n ($83 per production worker) for the 1957-61 period.

Research activities to improve apparel technology are on a very

small scale. Only in recent years has the Federal Government given

attention to the industry. The National Bureau of Standards of the

U.S. Department of Commerce initiated a program in 1963 to assist the

industry to improve production processes, expand the collection and

dissemination of technical information, increase the technical training

of personnel, and assist university research dealing with the apparel

industry. In cooperation with the Apparel Research Foundation, a grant,

combining Federal and industry funds, was awarded to an engineering firm

which developed prototype equipment for the automatic conveying of m u l ­

tiple plys of limp fabric from stacks to the sewing machine, a process

considered a bottleneck in the mechanization of sewing operations. The

National Bureau of Standards also initiated a series of in-house p r o ­

jects and grants to universities to provide research studies for the

apparel industry. The final objective of this joint effort is to develop

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a technical research program that can then be sustained wholly by the

industry, which so far has spent little for research and development.

Technological C h a n g e s . While intense competition results in

severe pressure to reduce labor costs, m e c hanization remains difficult

for the typical apparel firm and in some cases uneconomical, because

of short production runs. The use of mass production methods of standardization, simplification and specialization is limited by demands of

fashion for frequent changes of style. Recent trends in m e n fs and

w o m e n Ts apparel include m a n y changes in colors and a wide range of

woven and knit fabrics.

Technological change is likely to be m ore rapid among large-scale

producers of standardized types of clothing. Firms making shirts,

pajamas, underwear, w o r k clothing, and similar staple goods, produce

standardized goods for inventory as well as for order, enabling long

production runs for which mechanized equipment can be economical.

These firms, which tend to be larger than average, are among the most

mechanized in the industry and are expected to continue to adopt improved equipment to raise their productivity.

1. Production Engineering M e t h o d s . Producers look chiefly

to production engineering techniques rather than machine improvements

to increase productivity. The need for exact positioning of w ork in

the sewing machine and frequent stopping to adjust the cloth means that

operators, not machines, largely determine the volume of output in the

sewing department. Since machines are run about a third of total working

time, changes in methods of handling and positioning the cloth and in

moving the w o r k from one operator to another m a y have a greater influence on output per man-hour than improvements in machine speeds. P r o ­

ducers seek labor-savings through time study methods, improving the

arrangement of equipment for a single operation, and of the w o r k flow

of an entire process in order to use available machinery to better

advantage. For example, in the production of styled garments such as

suits and coats, a continuing shift is taking place from the traditional

hand tailoring system, which uses man y skilled workers, to section work

which utilizes m a n y semi-skilled sewing m achine operators.

2. Equipment C h a n g e s . Mechanical changes involve principally

small attachments to basic equipment and use of w o r k handling aids rather

than any basic m o d ification of the sewing operation. Equipment such as

needle positioners, automatic thread cutters, and parts stackers, which

are designed to reduce time spent by sewing machine operators in p o s i ­

tioning and adjusting tasks, are the principal means of improving p r o ­

ductivity in basic sewing operations. In the cutting operations, electric cloth spreading m a c hines and n e w systems of pattern making are being

adopted to a limited extent.

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3. Changes in Auxiliary O p e r a t i o n s , A few large apparel

firms are seeking greater efficiency through improvements in distribution and office work. Since fast distribution of apparel is of major

importance in this competitive consumer industry, large multiplant

firms have set up conveyorized order processing systems in warehouses.

M a n y large apparel firms are using computers for business purposes,

such as sales analysis, allowing firms to adjust production quickly to

styles most in demand.

4. Permanent P r e s s . Utilizing improved chemically treated

fabrics and heat curing techniques, manufacturers are greatly expanding

production of garments that can hold their shape through a number of

washings without pressing. These n e w processes are widely used for

such garments as m e n ’s and b o y s 1 trousers and shirts, m e n ’s casual wear

and w o r k clothing, and w o m e n ’s sportswear. The fabrics used are mainly

cotton-synthetic blends, although research is underway to apply similar

techniques to other fabrics. Present methods consist of treating the

fabrics at the textile mill and curing either at the textile m i l l before

the garment is manufactured (precure), or at the apparel firm after m a n u ­

facture (postcure). Precure techniques are used m a i n l y for light fabrics,

such as those used in shirts; postcure methods are more applicable fqr

heavier fabrics, such as those used for trousers. Apparel firms utilizing the postcure process are required to use special ovens or high

temperature presses to cure garments. Increased production worker

man- h o u r s m a y be required for the m a nufacture of garments using the

postcure process because of the additional operations needed.

Adjustment to Technological Change

Unions and management continue to cooperate in improving efficiency.

Both m a j o r unions, the International L a d i e s 1 Garment W o r k e r s 1 Union

(ILGWU) and the Amalgamated Clothing Workers of America (ACWA) have

assisted in the introduction of n e w methods in unionized establishments,

as part of a continuing program to promote sound business conditions

in the industry. This policy of cooperation is stated specifically in

the current m a ster agreement between the A C W A and The Clothing M a n u f a c ­

t u r e r s ’ Association of the United States, covering mos t of the workers

in the m e n ’s and b o y s ’ coats and suits branch of the industry. An

example of cooperation between the ILGWU and manufacturers is the v o l u n ­

tary establishment in 1964 of a continuing labor relations committee by

this union and a m a jor w o m e n ’s sportswear firm. One of the topics of

discussion on the agenda of this committee is the adoption of n e w p r o ­

duction systems.

Labor-management contracts typically provide for measures to assure

income protection and job security. Most of the contracts in force in

1968 between the two m a jor unions and apparel manufacturers contained

provisions assuring no reduction in wages and rio loss of jobs because

of technological change.

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VI. WAGES AND INDUSTRIAL RELATIONS

A, Textiles

Wage and Benefit Levels

Earnings in the textile industries— hourly, weekly, or annual— are

low compared with those in most other manufacturing industries.

The average textile production worker in October 1968 earned about

$2.15 an hour at straight-time, or about $2.27 with overtime pay. Weekly

earnings averaged about $94.00 a week. Hourly pay was approximately 75

cents and weekly pay about $30.00 below the average for all factory

workers (Appendix table 19.1/ In 1964, the latest year for w h ich information on annual earnings is available, the average annual earnings of w o r k ­

ers regularly employed in the textile industries (that is, wit h earnings

in each of four quarters) was about $4,300 a year (Appendix table 20).

This was less than in any other manufacturing industry group except apparel.

The data on annual earnings include both wage earners and salaried workers.

Earnings, of course, vary among textile industries and, within each

industry, among occupations and areas. Among the industries shown in A p ­

pendix table 19, the level of straight-time average hourly earnings in

October 1968 ranged from $1.98 in hosiery (other than w o m e n ’s hosiery) to

$2.35 for miscellaneous textile goods, which includes a wide range of p r o ­

ducts not elsewhere classified. In the basic broad woven cotton and synthetic fabric industries, straight-time hourly earnings averaged $2.15 and

$2.18, respectively. Among other important industry divisions, the average

for wool textiles was $2.22, knit outerwear $2.23, and dyeing and finishing $2.28.

Part of the difference in earnings among textile industries— for example, between textile dyeing and finishing and the production of broad

woven goods— reflects differences in occupational composition. Variations

in industry earnings also reflect to some extent differences in location.

Thus, the textile dyeing and finishing and wool textile industries are

relatively m ore important outside the South than cotton or synthetic broad

woven goods. Until recent years, earnings of textile workers tended to be

somewhat lower in the South than elsewhere. However, earnings for workers

doing the same type of w ork in cotton and man-made fiber industries are

n ow at about the same level in the Southeast and New England; earnings are

still about 10 to 20 cents lower in the Southwest.

On February 1, 1968, a m i nimum wage of $1.60 an hour became effective

under the Fair Labor Standards Act. Prior to that date, an estimated

7 to 10 percent of the workers in textile dyeing and finishing,

1/ Preliminary data indicate that in January 1969 average hourly and

weekly earnings in textiles were 84 cents and $34.00,r e s p e c t i v e l y , b e low

the levels in all manufacturing.

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8 to 12 percent in wool textiles, and more than 40 percent in m e n fs

and c h i l d r e n ’s hosiery were earnings less than $1.60 an hour. In the

large cotton textile industry, roughly one out of eight workers was

earning less than the n e w mi n i m u m rate; and the proportion in synthetic textiles was only slightly higher. It; is estimated that at

least half of all production workers in textile industries (except

textile dyeing and finishing) are currently earning between $1.60

and $2.00 an hour. The proportion ranges from an estimated 50 percent in cotton and wool textiles and w o m e n ’s hosiery to an estimated

65 to 75 percent in m e n ’s and c h i l d r e n ’s hosiery.

The predominant scheduled workweek in most textile industries is

40 hours. Special surveys in cotton and synthetic textile manufacture

in 1965 indicated that a majority of workers were on 48-hour schedules.

Since that time, however, actual hours have declined, and in October

1968 the average workweek for all textile manufacture was slightly more

than 41 hours, compared wit h about 42 hours in October 1965.

Paid leave and health and welfare benefits are less liberal in most

textile industries than in manufacturing generally. A special survey in

1966 indicated that employer expenditures for paid leave and for private

welfare plans averaged 13 percent of total compensation in manufacturing

as a whole. In cotton and synthetic textiles, a similar study in 1965

indicated that employer expenditures for these benefits amounted to 5.5

percent.

Paid holidays— usually 7 or m o r e a yea r — are common practice in

m o s t manufacturing industries, but a large proportion of textile workers

receive fewer than 4 paid holidays. Only wool and the textile dyeing

and finishing industries, of those for which information is available,

provided most production workers w i t h 4 or m o r e paid holidays, and less

than half of the workers in all industries, except wool, received 5 or

m o r e (Appendix table 22). As of the fall of 1967, from two-fifths to

three-fourths of the workers in the hosiery industry received no paid

holidays; there is no information indicating that there has been a substantial change in this industry since then.

In the manufacture of cotton and man - m a d e fabrics, about one out

of six workers, including one-third of those in the Southwest, received

no paid holidays in September 1968, but only one out of ten workers in

wool e n textiles and in textile dyeing and finishing had no holidays

w i t h pay.

For those workers covered by holiday provisions, the most common

number of days off with pay is four (three in the Southwest) in cotton

and m a n -made fabrics production, and six or six and one-half (two in

the Southeast) in the manufacture of wool e n textiles. In hosiery, the

number of holidays varies widely among establishments from one to

seven or seven and one-half, and in textile dyeing and finishing, the

number varies from one to nine or more.

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Vacations are m o r e common than holidays for textile workers.

The vast majority of workers engaged in the production of cotton,

man-made, or wool textiles, and textile dyeing and finishing, and

from 70 to 85 percent of those engaged in the manufacture of hosiery

receive paid vacations. The typical provision is 1 w eek after 1

y e a r ’s service and 2 weeks after 5 y e a r s ’ service. In contrast to

manufacturing as a whole, vacations of m o r e than 2 weeks are unusual

(Appendix table 23).

Life, hospital, and surgical insurance plans, financed at least

in part by employers,are widespread in the textile industries. They

apply to over nine-tenths of the workers employed in the cotton textile, synthetic textile, and dyeing and finishing industries (Appendix

table 24). In the South, premiums are often paid for in part by the

employees. Other types of insurance are less common.

In contrast to other benefits, New England lags behind the South

in the provision of monthly pension benefits for cotton textile workers.

Instead, New England manufacturers provide lump-sum payments on retirement. Monthly pension benefits are in effect for about seven out of

ten southern cotton textile workers. In the textile dyeing and finishing industry, some kind of pension— either monthly benefits or lump-sum

payments— apply to about three-fourths of the production workers in the

Middle Atlantic region, two-thirds in N ew England, and about three-fifths

in the Southeast, where the industry is n ow concentrated.

Wage and Benefit Trends

After a period of infrequent wage changes, wage activity in the

cotton and synthetic textile industries increased during the 1 9 6 0 ’s,

From November 1963 to July 1968 there were six rounds of wage increases

in southern textile mills (Appendix table 25). Each of the southern

wage increases since 1963, except those that went into effect in

September 1967 and July 1968, amounted to about 5 percent. The 1967

increase amounted to 6 or 6 1/2 percent, and the 1968 increase averaged

about 6 percent. Wages continued upward in 1969.

The acceleration of wage change apparently reflected the increased

prosperity of the industry. This in turn was due to a number of factors,

i n c l u d i n g the effect of the one-price cotton law, heavy demands for textile products, and substantial improvements in productivity. Southern

difficulties in recruiting workers were also reported.

General wage changes since 1963 have been somewhat larger in southern

than in the northern cotton and synthetic textile mills.

For cotton textiles, where comparisons of general wage changes and

changes in hourly earnings are possible, the increase in the two measures

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has been practically identical since 1958. Straight-time hourly earnings of all textile workers have increased by about 48 percent since

1958— mor e than the increases for all factory production workers. Be ­

cause of a slightly greater increase in average weekly hours, both

hourly earnings including premium pay for overtime and weekly earnings

advanced slightly faster than straight-time hourly earnings. Changes

in average annual earnings for workers with earnings in the textile

industry in each of four quarters of a year are shown in Appendix table

26 from 1946 to 1964, the latest years for which these data are available. Over the whole period, average annual earnings increased by about

123 percent.

Earnings at straight-time rose at about the same rate in most textile industries between 1958 and 1968 (Appendix table 19). Exceptions

were the manufacture of floor coverings, where hourly earnings excluding

premium pay for overtime increased by only about 32 percent, and hosiery

(except w o m e n ’s hosiery) and broad woven cotton fabrics, where they

rose between 55 and 60 percent. Straight-time hourly earnings in

floor coverings were highest of all textile industries (except m i s c e l ­

laneous textile goods) in 1958, and thus wage increases similar to those

in other industries between 1958 and 1968 resulted in a relatively

smaller percentage increase in straight-time average hourly earnings

for this period. On the other hand, hourly earnings in m e n ’s and

c h i l d r e n ’s hosiery and cotton fabrics were relatively low in 1958,

and the same cents per hour wage increases over these years would be

higher in percentage terms.

Northern plants have continued to liberalize benefits, and since

1965, substantial numbers of southern cotton and synthetic plants have

liberalized or introduced benefits, especially holiday and pension p r o ­

visions.

Industrial Relations

Extent of U n i o n i z a t i o n . Union agreements govern the wages and

working conditions of only a small minority of textile workers. In most

manufacturing industries, union agreements cover from 60 to 65 percent

of the production workers..?/ As Appendix table 27 indicates, only in

textile dyeing and finishing do union agreements cover m o r e than a third

of the production workers, and in the Southeastern States, as few as 1

or 2 percent of synthetic textile manufacturing and hosiery employees

w o r k under union contracts. The highest contract coverage in the Southeast is recorded in cotton textiles, where an estimated 14 percent of the

2/ Data refer to 1966, the latest year for w h ich this information

is available. There has been relatively little change in unionization

since these studies were made.

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workers are under collective bargaining agreements, and in textile

dyeing and finishing, where agreements apply to one out of four

southern workers.

With the continued shift of textile employment to the South in

the postwar period, unionization has actually declined in importance.

During the 1 9 6 0 fs, there has been little change in coverage of union

agreements in these industries. Within the past two years unions have

w o n bargaining elections in a number of southern textile plants, but

very few of these plants have signed collective bargaining agreements.

Considering membership rather than the number of workers covered

by union agreements, membership in major textile unions has declined

proportionately m ore than employment. Between 1956 and 1966, textile

production worker employment fell by about 87,000 w o r k e r s — about 9.2

percent— while membership in the m a jor textile unions declined by

about 83,000 or 27 percent (Appendix table 28). Membership in the

principal textile unions was about 33 percent of textile production

worker employment in 1956 and 27 percent in 1966..3/

Bargaining P a t t e r n s . In recent years, the pattern of wage changes

in cotton and synthetic textile manufacture has been established by n o n ­

union establishments in the South. In contrast to the years before the

m i d - 1 9 5 0 fs, when members of the N e w England Textile Manufacturers A s s o ­

ciation bargained as a unit, unionized companies n o w negotiate on an

individual basis.

The frequency of bargaining and wage changes in the textile industries, particularly in the manufacture of broad woven goods, has accelerated in the 1 9 6 0 fs as the i n d u s t r i e s 1 prosperity increased. With the

economic difficulties and declines in employment in the 1 9 5 0 fs, there

were a number of years in which wages were not changed and one year in

which they were reduced by unionized mills. Beginning in 1964, however,

northern cotton textile manufacturers began to negotiate wage increases

each year, and, in 1966, 3-year agreements provided not only for a wage

increase in the first contract year but for deferred wage increases in

the second and third years. This development paralleled an acceleration

of wage changes in southern textile plants.

3/ A number of other unions have some membership in the textile

industries. These include the Industrial Trades Union (independent),

w h ich represents some 1,700 employees of 16 woolen and worsted, dye,

and knitting mills in the Woonsocket, Rhode Island area.

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Strike I d l e n e s s , The number of man-days of idleness resulting from

w o r k stoppages in the textile industries has been proportionately smaller

than the average for all industries. In each year except two between 1956

and 1967, less than a tenth of 1 percent of estimated working time has been

lost because of work stoppages in textile industries (Appendix table 29).

Most textile stoppages have been concentrated in the Northeast. D e ­

spite the loss of union members and coverage of union agreements with the

shift of the industry to the South, strikes to organize plants have not increased in number.

B. Apparel

Wage and Benefit Levels

Hourly earnings in the apparel industries are lower than in any other

manufacturing group except textiles and leather. Because of relatively

short hours, weekly and annual earnings of apparel workers are below those

of all other major industry groups. The average apparel worker in October

1968 earned just over $2.20 an hour (about $2.27 if premium pay for ove r ­

time is included), or slightly m o r e than $82.00 a w e e k — about 70 cents an

hour and mor e than $43.00 a w eek less than the average factory production

worker (Appendix table 30) .it/ The annual earnings of workers regularly

attached to the apparel industries (those with earnings in each of four

quarters) averaged about $3,650 in 1964 (Appendix table 31).

In October 1968, estimated average straight time hourly earnings

varied among apparel industries from a low of about $1.90 in the m a n u f a c ­

ture of such products as w o r k clothing, shirts, trousers, and w o m e n fs and

c h i l d r e n fs underwear, to about $2.72 in the manufacture of w o m e n fs coats

and suits. Earnings varied among industries for the same occupation as

well as for all occupations considered as a group. Thus, even for janitors, earnings in the m e n ’s and b o y s T suit and coat industry are substantially higher than those in m e n fs and b o y s 1 shirt or w o r k clothing factories (Appendix table 32). For production occupations, the differences

in earnings are even greater.

Within an industry earnings vary substantially among occupations and

areas. A survey of the w o m e n 1s and m i s s e s 1 dress industry in 11 major

production centers in M a r c h 1966 recorded earnings ranging from $1.63

an hour in Dallas, Texas to $2.73 in N e w Y o r k City. At that time, in

Ne w York City, skilled cutters and markers earned an average of $3.55

an hour, while the largest occupational group in the industry— women

sewing m a c hine operators (single hand-tailor system) averaged $2.81.

In the production of w o m e n ’s coats and suits, earnings in August 1965

4/ Preliminary data indicate that in January 1969 average hourly

and weekly earnings in textiles were 83 cents and $45.00, respectively,

below the levels in all manufacturing.

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varied from $2.00 in Kansas City to $2.92 in New York City, with cutters averaging $3.90 and sewing machine operators (single hand-tailor 

system) $3.45 in New York City.5/

Prior to February 1, 1968, a substantial number of workers in the 

apparel industries earned less than $1.60— the minimum which went into 

effect for manufacturing establishments under the Fair Labor Standards 

Act on that date. In Appendix table 33, estimates of the proportion 

of workers currently earning less than $2.00 an hour are presented for 

three apparel industries. On a nationwide basis, the estimates range 

from 22 percent in the menfs and boys1 suits and coats industry to an 

estimated 70 percent in the manufacture of work clothing, and 80 percent 

in the shirt (except work shirts) and nightwear industry.

The scheduled workweek in most men's apparel industries is 40 hours, 

with few establishments reporting longer schedules. Work schedules in 

most major centers of the women's dress industry and all major centers 

of the women's coat and suit industry, as well as in unionized plants 

manufacturing infants' and children's wear, are typically 35 hours a 

week— ' Most workers in other women's apparel industries are also on a 

35-hour workweek. Average actual hours vary with the season in many 

apparel industries, but typically are below 40 a week, whereas in recent 

years the workweek in all manufacturing has averaged 40 hours or more.

Because in many apparel industries most establishments are small, 

employee benefits are often financed by industry-area funds to which 

unionized employers contribute specified amounts per man-hour worked.

The limited information that is available indicates that employer contributions or direct expenditures for benefits were proportionately 

smaller in apparel manufacture than in manufacturing as a whole. Benefits are more generous in industries in which large numbers of establishments have been organized than in such industries as work clothing and 

shirt manufacturing, where union agreements cover only a minority of the 

workers.

In the women's apparel industries and in the production of men's 

coats and suits, most workers receive paid holidays, but in the manufacture of men's and boys' shirts, about a third of the workers did not receive any paid holidays as of 1964. (Available information does not indicate any substantial subsequent change in practice. The predominant number of paid holidays is 7, 7 1/2, or 8, except in work clothing, where 6 

or 7 days are equally common.

V In the coat and suit industry, section system sewing machine 

operators were more numerous than tailor system operators and had 

lower earnings.

6/ The only major dress areas in which schedules in excess of 35 

hours were common were mostly unorganized.

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Most apparel workers receive paid vacations, but the length of 

vacations varies among industries. Employees of the menfs suit and 

coat and shirt industries receive two weeks1 vacation after a yearfs 

service and a third week after 1 1/2 years.U In the work clothing 

industry, most employees receive one week after a yearfs service and 

a second week is added after 3 or 5 years1 service. Only about 

one-fourth of the workers in work clothing have 3 weeks1 or more of 

paid vacation, usually after 10 or 15 years of service. Vacation 

benefits vary among major centers of the dress industry. In most 

areas, employees with a yearfs service receive 2 or 4 percent of their 

annual earnings as vacation benefits; this percentage does not vary 

with length of service. Vacation practices in the womenfs coat and 

suit industry varied, with payments ranging from 2 percent of annual 

earnings, or about one week’s pay, to 3 3/4 percent, or pay for a second 

week. One year’s service was generally required for payments.

In unionized plants in centers of women’s coat and suit production, 

pensions of $50.00 or $65.00 a month are financed by employer payments 

of 2 1/2 to 6 1/2 percent of payrolls. Most unionized producers of 

dresses pay 4 1/2 percent of payrolls for pensions of $60.00 a month, 

and in men’s apparel, most employers in the men’s and boys’ coats and 

suits industry contribute 4.5 percent of payrolls for pension benefits 

based on earnings and length of service, and in shirts and allied garments, 3.1 percent for pensions of $60.00 a month.

A number of apparel agreements provide for local medical care 

facilities, often clinics that provide a variety of medical care services. Other health benefits include hospitalization, ranging from full 

coverage for a semi-private room for workers in women’s dresses and men’s 

and boys’ coats and suits to $30.00 a day for workers manufacturing 

women’s coats and suits and men’s shirts and cotton garments. Allowances 

for surgical expenses are generally $300.00 for workers in men’s and boys’ 

shirts and allied garments and as high as $500.00 in the women’s dress 

industry, and in both the women’s and men’s coats and suits industries.

Most union firms pay from 4 to 7 1/2 percent of gross payroll to finance 

health and welfare benefits.

Wage and Benefit Trends

Because of the fragmented nature of bargaining and the number of 

unilateral employer decisions, it is difficult to generalize about the 

size of general wage increases and changes in benefits in the apparel

JJ Two weeks are given in the summer after 1 year of service and 

the third week is granted during Christmas week for employees with 1 

year of service as of December 1. In effect then, only those employees 

with at least 1 1/2 years of service as of December 1 would receive the 

full 3 weeks of vacation for the year.

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industries. Until 1965-66, wages were generally increased only once 

every two or three years, but beginning in 1965, wage activity increased. In 1965, after a lapse of two years, 1-year contracts negotiated for the shirt and other menfs cotton garment industries provided 

wage increases. In 1966, 3-year contracts were negotiated providing for 

increases in both 1966 and 1967. Some work clothing plants put into 

effect negotiated or deferred increases during 1965, 1966, and 1967.

There was a similar acceleration of wage changes in the women1s apparel 

industries. Prior to the early 1960fs, wage reopenings were often triggered by 5 percent increases in the Consumer Price Index, while recently 

this has been reduced to about 2 or 2 1/2 percent. In 1967 and 1968, 

many contracts in women1s apparel were reopened for wage negotiations, 

based on an increase in the CPI. In general, provisions for deferred 

wage increases and new contract negotiations will raise the wage level 

in apparel in 1969.

Straight-time average hourly earnings increased by more than 40 

percent in both the apparel industries and all manufacturing between 

October 1958 and October 1968.il/ The percentage rise in average weekly 

earnings was less in apparel than in all manufacturing, reflecting a 

larger rise in average hours in manufacturing. Annual earnings in 

these industries for regular workers rose less than in most other major 

manufacturing groups (Appendix table 34). The rise between 1946 and 1964 

(the latest year for which data on annual earnings are available), was 67 

percent; for the period 1959-64 the increase was 14 percent.

There has been a relatively little variation among apparel industries 

in the extent to which earnings have increased, with the exception of 

womenfs suits, skirts, coats, and millinery. In those industries, hourly 

earnings rose less than 30 percent between 1958 and 1968. Except for 

reductions in weekly schedules in the millinery and fur industries in 

1958, there has been little change in hours of work in apparel industries in recent years.

Many recent union agreements have liberalized benefits and increased 

the percentage that employers contribute for vacations, holidays, and 

health and welfare benefits.

Industrial Relations

Extent of Unionization. The proportion of workers covered by union 

agreements varies widely among apparel industries, although generally it 

is much higher than in the textile industries. Among three of the major

8/ The increase would be about the same if the average for 1958 

were used as a base. October 1958 has been substituted because of 

seasonal variations in some apparel industries.

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menfs apparel industries for which data are available, coverage of 

union agreements varies from about two-fifths of the production workers 

in shirt manufacture to 90 percent in the manufacture of coats and suits. 

In 9 out of 11 major metropolitan areas in the womenfs dress industry 

and all areas studied in womenfs coat and suit production, about 7 out °f 

8 workers were covered by union agreements. (Exceptions were Dallas and 

Los Angeles, where fewer than one-tenth of the dress workers were covered by agreements.) Union agreements also apply extensively to workers 

in a number of other women1s apparel industries.

Despite a growth in apparel employment, there has been no significant gain in union membership or coverage of union agreements in 

recent years. Membership in the four major apparel unions considered as 

a group actually declined slightly between 1956 and 1966. In the two 

largest unions, membership was stable. At the same time, annual average 

production worker employment in the apparel industries grew by 155,000.

The failure of union membership or coverage of union agreements to keep 

pace with employment is apparently due to the fact that the growth has 

occurred mostly in areas that have proved difficult to organize. Membership in the principal apparel unions has fallen from about 84 percent 

of production worker employment in 1956 to 72 in 1966.

Bargaining Patterns. Large establishments are relatively rare in the 

apparel industries; hence, most collective bargaining agreements cover 

groups of establishments within metropolitan areas or, in some cases, even 

broader areas (Appendix table 35). Some agreements, for example, cover 

the New York metropolitan area or parts of several northeastern States. 

Typically, contracts are negotiated for a period of two or three years. 

Until the past several years, they normally provided for wage reopeners 

on a certain date or if a specified increase occurred in the Consumer 

Price Index. Specified deferred wage increases were not provided for. 

Generally, increases were put into effect less often than annually. In 

recent years, there has been a tendency to provide for specific deferred 

wage increases, although there are still provisions for reopeners in 

many Ladies1 Garment Workers contracts if the CPI increases by a specified amount, or if the statutory minimum wage increases. Many of the 

women's garment contracts require that minimum occupational rates shall 

be maintained at a specified level above the statutory minimum.

Strike Idleness. Except in 1958, when more than 150,000 workers in 

the dress and millinery industries struck over new agreements, time lost 

because of work stoppages has been proportionately much smaller in apparel 

than the average for all industries (Appendix table 36). Despite the 

failure of union membership and coverage of union agreements to keep pace 

with the growth of employment in the industry, there has been no increase 

in strikes to organize new plants.

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VII. TEXTILES AND APPAREL IN PUERTO RICQi/

Employment and Unemployment

In 1968, factory employment in Puerto Rico averaged 7,600 in textiles and 37,100 in apparel.2J Between 1957 and 1968, factory employment in textiles and apparel combined increased by 89 percent. In 

apparel, the gain was 97 percent; in textiles, 58 percent (Appendix 

table 37). In the balance of manufacturing industry, over the same 

period, employment rose by 85 percent, and in all nonagricultural industry (excluding textiles and apparel), by 62 percent.A/ Among the individual textile and apparel industries, the largest single source of 

employment was in women1s, misses’, children’s and infants1 undergarments 

(Appendix table 38).

In 1968, almost one-third of all factory employment in Puerto Rico 

was accounted for by apparel and textiles, as compared with almost 

two-fifths in 1966.4/A significant aspect of the development of the apparel industry has been the shift from home needlework to factory work.

In 1957, there were about 18,000 home needleworkers and 19,000 factory 

apparel workers, a total of about 37,000. By 1968, there were only 

about 2,000 home needleworkers, but factory employment had risen to

37,000 for a total employment only slightly greater than in 1957. These 

figures suggest that the development of a strong factory industry has 

gradually whittled away at the cottage industry, but this is probably 

only partially true. No definite information is available on the subsequent employment of the displaced needleworkers, but there are indications 

that some have become factory workers in apparel; others have left the 

labor force or become domestic workers; and still others have moved into

1/ The definitions of the textile and apparel industries in 

Puerto Rico correspond broadly to those used for the mainland of the 

United States, but there are several major differences. Included in 

the children’s dress and related products industry are establishments 

primarily engaged in the manufacture of dolls, and included in the 

hosiery and textile products industry are establishments primarily 

engaged in the manufacture of mattresses and bedsprings.

2/ Wherever data for 1968 are used, they represent the average 

for January through October unless otherwise specified.

3/ On the mainland, between 1957 and 1968, textile mill employment was virtually unchanged, but employment in apparel and in manufacturing as a whole rose by 15 and 17 percent, respectively.

4/ On the mainland, combined textile and apparel employment 

accounted for 12 percent of manufacturing employment (Appendix table 1).

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home piecework for other industries, such as glove manufacturing.

Possibly the single factor mos t influencing the reduction in the n u m ­

ber of home needleworkers has been the dwindling importance, both in

relative and absolute terms, of those apparel industries in w h ich hand

finishing was an important operation.

It is evident that, while the level of* apparel employment has remain e d relatively stable, the shift from homework to factory work, as

well as the shift in industry patterns, has resulted in a higher level

of productivity, and consequently greater output for the industry.

Separate data are not available on unemployment in the textile

and apparel industries in Puerto Rico. For all nonagricultural industries, unemployment over the last 12 years has averaged 11.2 percent,

double the unemployment rate for the mainland (Appendix table 39). In

October 1968, the rate was 11.3 percent, or about triple the mainland

rate. With some variation— as low as 9.9 percent in 1960 and as high

as 13.5 in 1958— nonagricultural unemployment has remained relatively

steady over the entire decade. The female unemployment rate has generally been more favorable than the male rate. After a period of

steady decline, followed by some upward movement, it dropped to a low

point of 7.3 percent in October 1968.

In addition to unemployment, underemployment— those workers who

w o r k 34 hours or less per week for involuntary reasons— is also a

serious problem. The rate for underemployment has been consistently

high, approximately at the same level as unemployment.

While employment during the past 12 years increased by 30 percent,

increases of 28 percent occurred in the civilian noninstitutional p o p u ­

lation and in the labor force. There has thus been a comparatively

small gain in relative employment. This population growth has been

influenced in the past several years by the return of a portion of the

Puerto Rican population that had migrated to the mainland, main l y New

Y o r k City, and, in returning, exerted additional pressure on job opportunities .

Unemployment among young people has been and continues to be a

serious .problem* Approximately half the unemployed on the island are

less than 25 years old. The fact that the situation is not improving

and is indeed worsening is indicated by the decrease of 4.8 years in

the average age of the unemployed between 1960 and 1967. This is in

part a reflection of the decreasing average age of the population.

M o r e and more, as employment shifts from the "traditional” sector

(agriculture, needlework, domestic service, self-employed merchants

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and street peddlers, and sugar mill jobs) to the "modern" sector

(manufacturing, construction, trade, government and services other

than d o m e s t i c ) , relatively low educational attainment becomes a v o c a ­

tional handicap for both the young and older Puerto Rican,

A more favorable aspect of the unemployment picture is the relatively short duration of most unemployment. Two-thirds of the persons

seeking wor k stay unemployed for a period of 4 weeks or less. Only

6.2 percent of job seekers are unemployed for 31/2 months or more.

Long-term unemployment is often a reflection of the shift from the

traditional to the modern economy, from the disappearance of industries

using relative unskilled labor to those with greater skill requirements.

Size of Establishment

Between 1957 and October 1967, the number of textile and apparel

plants in Puerto Rico increased from 415 to 500, or 22 percent, accounting for about 20 percent of the island's manufacturing establishments

(Appendix table 40). Between the two years, the average apparel plant

increased in size from 51 to 83 workers, but the average textile plant

remained about the same size— 100 workers.

In 1957, 71 percent of the apparel plants had fewer than 50 employees, and 26 percent had between 50 and 250 (Appendix table 41). By

October 1967, this had shifted to 48 percent in the smaller size, and

49 percent in the larger. Over this period the proportion of workers

in small plants was cut more than half, from 24.5 percent in 1957 to

11.5 percent in October 1967. Unlike the situation on the mainland, the

average apparel plant in Puerto Rico is larger than the average m a n u f a c ­

turing establishment. Presumably this reflects the tendency of m a n u f a c ­

turers of mass-produced articles, such as brassieres, to locate sizeable

plants on the island.

Wage and Benefit Levels

In the period from 1957 through 1968, average hourly earnings in

Puerto R i c o fs textile industry rose 88 percent, from 77 cents to $1.45;

and in apparel by 118 percent, from 66 cents to $1.44 (Appendix table

42). The increase in apparel was at approximately the same rate as in

Puerto Rican manufacturing generally until 1966, but by 1968 had substantially exceeded the manufacturing increase of 103 percent.

As a result of wage movements occurring during the past decade,

differentials between mainland and island hourly earnings in textiles

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and apparel have narrowed in percentage terms; however, they have

remained about the same in terms of m o n e y (Appendix table 43). If

anything, the gap in absolute terms has widened somewhat in recent

years. Since 1957, hourly earnings in textiles in Puerto Rico have

averaged about 68 cents less than on the mainland. In two of these

years, they rose to within 63 cents of the m ainland level, but since

1962, the gap has been increasing with indications that it will be

about 74 cents for 1968. In apparel manufacturing, the difference

averaged 75 cents over the 12-year span, with a 76-cent difference

indicated for 1968.

Even m o r e than on the mainland, min i m u m wage changes under the

Fair Labor Standards Act have exerted a powerful influence on hourly

earnings. Unlike the m a i n l a n d ’s uniform min i m u m wage level, island

minima are set on an industry-by-industry basis by industry committees,

and are reviewed at approximately 1-year intervals. M u c h of the rise

between 1967 and 1968 took place in the spring of 1968, after the Fair

Labor Standards Act m i n i m u m of $1.60 per hour went into effect on the

mainland (February 1). The Fair Labor Standards Act required a corresponding percentage increase in the island minimum. Except for the

manufacture of handkerchiefs, for which a hardship exception was filed,

this percentage increase went into effect in April 1968.

Average weekly earnings in apparel have risen from $21.98 in 1957

to $51.04 in 1968,^an 11-year increase of 132 percent, as compared with

110 percent in all manufacturing. However, the level of average weekly

earnings in 1968 was lower in apparel than in manufacturing by $5.98,

or about 10 percent. While the gap in terms of dollars has grown somewhat since 1957, it has decreased in percentage terms by about one-half.

Although we e k l y earnings in the m u c h smaller textile industry rose by

only 100 percent in the same period, their level was $5.59 higher than

in apparel in 1968. About two-thirds of this difference was due to

higher average weekly hours in textiles, and the remainder to a difference in average hourly earnings.

In manufacturing industries, island average weekly hours tend to be

lower than on the mainland. This is particularly true in textiles; in

apparel, the difference has been slight. However, it should be noted

that on the mainland scheduled hours in apparel are often 35 per week,

notably in the w o m e n ’s branch of the industry. On the island, they are

40, indicating that there is a substantial shortage of full-time w o r k

in the industry. Over the past 12 years, textile we e k l y hours have

averaged 2.4 higher than in apparel.

In addition to legally required social security, unemployment insurance, and w o r k m e n ’s compensation coverage, female employees are entitled

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by law to two months of maternity leave at half pay. Paid holidays,

vacations, and medical insurance are provided for in union agreements

and are found to some extent in unorganized plants. The payment of

Christmas bonuses is not unusual.

Industrial Relations

Extent of U n i o n i z a t i o n . The Puerto Rican Department of Labor

estimated that in October 1966 there were 13,000 union members in

apparel, or 41 percent of persons employed, and 1,200 in textile

mills, or 21 percent of persons employed. Information from other

sources indicates that roughly 12,000 were in the International L a d i e s 1

Garment W o r k e r s 1 Union, AFL-CIOfci/; 1.500 or mor e in the Amalgamated

Clothing Workers of America, AFL-CI02j

unions •U

and another 1,200 in other

Of 287 textile and apparel plants covered in economic analyses

prepared in 1964 by the Wage and Hour and Public Contracts Divisions

of the U.S. Department of Labor, 85, with 10,252 w o r k e r s » or about

one-third of the industry total, were covered by union-management

contracts. These 85 plants averaged about 120 workers each, as compared wit h an average of 96 workers in plants not covered by contracts.

Industrial Disputes and Work Stop p a g e s . In the course of the last

decade there have been only three union-approved strikes in the apparel

industry in Puerto Rico. These strikes were small and were organizational rather than economic in nature. In all the stoppages, the strik

ing union has been the Amalgamated Clothing Workers of America, AFL-CIO

In addition, a small number of wildcat strikes, generally of short dura

tion, have occurred.

5/ William Knowles, "Unionism and Politics in Puerto Rico" in

Status of Puerto R i c o , Selected Background Studies, prepared for the

U.S.-Puerto Rico Commission on the Status of Puerto Rico, 1966.

6/ Informal estimate provided by the ACWA, AFL-CIO.

7/ Based on a 1964 estimate m a d e by the U.S. Department of Labor,

Wage and Hour and Public Contracts Divisions.

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STATISTICAL APPENDIX

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Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis
Table 1--Total Employment in Manufacturing, Textiles, and Apparel, 1947 to 1968 JL/ 

_________________________________(In thousands)__________________________________

Year Manufacturing Textiles Apparel

Ratios

Textiles to 

manufacturing

Apparel to 

manufacturing

1947 ........... ......... 15,545 1,299 1,154 8.4 7.4

1948 ..................... 15,582 1,332 1,190 8.6 7.6

1949 ..................... 14,441 1,187 1,173 8.2 8.1

1950 ..................... 15,241 1,256 1,202 8.2 7.9

1951 ..................... 16,393 1,238 1,207 7.6 7.4

1952 ..................... 16,632 1,163 1,216 7.0 7.3

1953 ..................... 17,549 1,155 1,248 6.6 7.1 i

1954 ..................... 16,314 1,042 1,184 6.4 7.3 tn

1955 ..................... 16,882 1,050 1,219 6.2

1956 ..................... 17,243 1,032 1,223 6.0 7.1

7 -2 T

1957 ..................... 17,174 981 1,210 5.7 7.0

1958 ..................... 15,945 919 1,172 5.8 7.3

1959 ..................... 16,675 946 1,226 5.7 7.4

1960 ..................... 16,796 924 1,233 5.5 7.3

1961 ..................... 16,326 893 1,215 5.5 7.4

1962 ..................... 16,853 902 1,264 5.4 7.5

1963 ..................... 16,995 885 1,283 5.2 7.5

1964 ..................... 17,274 892 1,303 5.2 7.5

1965 ..................... 18,062 926 1,354 5.1 7.5

1966 ..................... 19,214 964 1,402 5.0 7.3

1967 ..................... 19,434 957 1,400 4.9 7.2

1968 2/................... 19,734 985 1,417 5.0 7.2

IV Private wage and salary workers only, 

2/ Pr e 1 iminary.

Source: U.S. Department of Labor, Bureau of Labor Statistics

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T ab le 2 --Unem ploym ent R a te s in M a n u fa c tu rin g , 

T e x tile s and A p p a re l, 1958 to 1968

Year M an u factu rin g T e x tile s A pparel

R a tio s

T e x tile to 

m a n u fa c tu rin g

A p parel to 

m a n u fa c tu rin g

1958 ............................... 9 .2 9 .5 1 2 .0 1.03 1.03

1959 ............................... 6 .0 7 .2 9 .6 1 .2 0 1 .6 0

I960 ............................... 6 .2 6 .3 10.5 1.02 1.69

1961 ............................... 7 .7 6 .8 1 1 .4 .88 1.48

1962 ............................... 5 .8 5 .2 9 .8 .9 0 1.69

1963 ............................... 5 .7 6 .7 9 .6 1.18 1 .6 8

1964 ............................... 4 .9 5 .7 8 .0 1.16 1.63

1965 ............................... 4 .0 4 .3 7 .3 1.08 1.83

1966 ............................... 3 .2 3 .7 6 .0 1 .16 1.88

1967 ............................... 3 .6 3 .8 6 .5 1.06 1.81

1968 ............................... 3 .2 3 .5 5 .9 1.09 1 .8 4

S o u rce: U .S. D epartm ent o f L ab o r, B ureau o f L abor S t a t i s t i c s .

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Table 3--Labor Turnover Rates in Manufacturing, Textiles, and

Apparel, 1958 to 1967 1/

Year

Manufacturing Textiles Apparel

Accessions Separations Accessions Separations Accessions Separations

Total New

Hires

Total Quits Layoffs Total New

Hires

Total Quits Layoffs Total New

Hires

Total Quits Layoffs

1958 3.6 1.7 4.1 i.i 2.6 3.'2 1.6 3.5 1.3 1 ,8 5.2 2.5 5.7 1.7 3.5

1959 4.2 2.6 4.1 1.5 2.0 3.5 2.4 3.5 1.7 1.3 5.7 3.6 5.6 2.3 2.7

1960 3.8 2.2 4.3 1.3 2.4 3.2 2.0 3.7 1.6 1.5 5.4 3.2 6.1 2.3 3.2

• i

1961 4.1 2.2 4.0 1.2 2.2 3.5 2.2 3.4 1.6 1.3 5.7 3.1 5.8 2.0 O . l v. 3 1 u

1962 4.1 2.5 4.1 1.4 2.0 3.6 2.5 3.7 1.9 1.2 5.5 3.5 5.8 2.3

1

2.7

1963 3.9 2.4 3.9 1.4 1.8 3.6 2.5 3.8 1.9 1.2 5.3 3.3 5.5 2.2 2.6

1964 4.0 2.6 3.9 1.5 1.7 3.8 2.7 3.8 2.1 1.1 5.5 3.3 5.6 2.2 2.6

1965 4.3 3.1 4.1 1.9 1.4 4.3 3.3 4.1 2.5 .8 5.8 3.7 5.8 2.6 2.4

1966 5.0 3.8 4.6 2.6 1.2 5.1 4.1 5.1 3.5 .7 6.1 4.2 6.1 3.3 2.0

1967 4.4 3.3 4.6 2.3 1.4 4.9 3.8 5.0 3.4 .8 5.6 3.7 6.0 2.9 2.3

1/ Per hundred employees*

Source: U.S. Department of Labor, Bureau of Labor Statistics.

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Table 4.— Employment in Textiles, by Region and 

State, March 19681./

State Employment

Percent

of

total

T o t a l........... ............. 991,876 100.0

Northeast ............................ 261,414 26.4

Maine .............................. 12,689 1.3

Massachusetts ...................... 36,192 3.6

Rhode Island .......... ............. 22,614 2.3

Connecticut ........................ 13,834 1.4

New Y o r k ............... ............ 59,674 6.0

New Jersey,.......................... 30,003 3.0

Pennsylvania....................... 69,521 7.0

All o t h e r ...... .................... 16,887 1.7

North Central ........................ 31,941 3.2

Ohio ............................... 10,918 1.1

All other .......................... 21,023 2.1

South ................... ............. 686,216 69.2

Virginia ............................ 41,501 4.2

North Carolina ..................... 275,598 27.8

South Carolina ..................... 148,415 15.0

Georgia ............................ 116,026 11.7

Tennessee •••............ ........... 32,857 3.3

A l a b a m a.... ........................ 41,986 4.2

All other .......................... 29,833 3.0

West ................................. 12,305 1.2

California............... .......... 8,933 .9

All o t h e r...... ••••••.........,,,,, 3,372 .3

1/ Employment covered by unemployment insurance (excludes 

mainly self-employed workers)•

Source: U,S. Department of Labor, Bureau of Employment Security,

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Table 5.— Employment in Apparel, by Region and State,

March 19681./

State Employment

Percent

distribution

Total ................ 1,442,330 100.0

Northeast ................ 669,793 46.4

Massachusetts ................ 55,496 3.8

Connecticut ................. 15,606 1.1

New Y o r k ............... .... . 288,797 20.0

New Jersey .................. 79,694 5.5

Pennsylvania..... ........... 182,015 12.6

All o t h e r................. .. 48,185 3.3

North Central ................. 154,595 10.7

Ohio ............ •••••••••••• 19,181 1.3

Illinois .................... 39,057 2.7

Michigan............. ...... 21,766 1.5

Missouri ..................... 33,920 2.4

All o t h e r.... ............... 40,671 2.8

South ......................... 524,496 36.4

Maryland .................... 24,813 1.7

Virginia .................... 35,062 2.4

North Carolina .............. 68,471 4.7

South Carolina .............. 40,370 2.8

Georgia ..................... 67,375 4.7

Kentucky............. ....... 28,914 2.0

Tennessee ................... 67,030 4.6

Alabama ..................... 42,594 3.0

Mississippi . ................. 37,785 2.6

Texas ....................... 52,661 3.7

All other ................... 59,421 4.1

West ................. ......... 93,446 6.5

California .................. 72,162 5.0

All other ........... ........ 21,284 1.5

1/ Employment covered by unemployment insurance (excludes

mainly self-employed workers).

Source: U.S. Department of Labor, Bureau of Employment Security.

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Table 6.— Percent Distribution of Employment in

Manufacturing, Textiles and Apparel,

by Area, First Quarter 1967— '

Area Manufacturing Textiles Apparel

Percent2/ ....... 100 100 100

Metropolitan area ...... 79 39 65

Nonmetropolitan area ... 21 61 35

1/ Employment covered by old-age, survivors, and disability

insurance (excludes m a inly self-employed w o r k e r s ) .

2/ Percents are rounded to nearest whole number.

Source: U.S. Department of Commerce, Bureau of the Census.

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Table 7.— Percent Distribution of Employment in

Textiles in Selected States, by Area,

First Quarter 19671./

State2J Total

Metropolitan

area

Nonmetropolitan

area

N e w England

Massachusetts ....... 100 98 2

Midd l e Atlantic

N e w Yor k ............. 100 91 9

N ew Jersey ........... 100 92 8

Pennsylvania ........ 100 71 29

South

Alabama .............. 100 10 90

Georgia .............. 100 30 70

North Carolina ...... 100 14 86

South Carolina ...... 100 23 77

T e n n e s s e e ....... T... 100 69 31

V i r g i n i a ....... . 100 9 91

1/ Employment covered by old-age, survivors, and disability

insurance (excludes m a inly self-employed workers).

2V The selected States accounted for about 84 percent of

employment in textile mills in 1967. (Percents are rounded to

nearest whole n u m b e r ) .

Source: U.S. Department of Commerce, Bureau of the Census.

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Table 8 . --Percent Distribution of Employment in Apparel

in Selected States, by Area, First Quarter

1967 1/

-State 2/ Total

Metropolitan

area

Non-metropolitan

area

New England

Massachusetts ........... 100 100 0

Middle Atlantic

New York ................. 100 96 4

New Jersey .............. 100 85 15

Pennsylvania ............ 100 76 24

North Central

Illinois ................. 100 72 28

Missouri ................. 100 59 41

South

Alabama .................. 100 11 89

Georgia .................. 100 18 82

Mississippi ............. 100 2 98

North Carolina ......... 100 24 76

South Carolina ......... 100 35 65

Tennessee ............... 100 16 84

Texas ............. ...... 100 74 26

Virginia . .. ............. . 100 30 70

Pacific

California .............. 100 97 3

1/ Employment covered by old-age, survivors, and disability insurance

(excludes mainly self-employed workers).

2/ The selected States accounted for about 83 percent of

employment in the apparel industry in 1967. (Percents are rounded

to nearest whole number).

Source: U.S. Department of Commerce, Bureau of the Census.

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Table 9 --Employment in Textiles and Apparel, as Percent

of M anufacturing Employment, by Selected States

and Areas, First Quarter 1967 1/

States and areas Total Textiles Apparel

U n i t e d States ................................. 12.0 4.8 7.2

Massachusetts ................ ............. 12.5 4.7 7.8

Metropolitan areas ....................... 12.6 4.7 7.9

Boston, Lowell, Lawrence ............. 9.4 : 3.2 6.2

Brockton ................................ 10.1 ! 2.2 7.9

Fall River-New Bedford ............... 35.4 9.7 25.7

W o r c ester ............................... 11.4 6.9 4.5

Non-metropolitan areas .................. 9.4 8.6 .7

N e w Y o r k ............ ........................ 18.4 2.9 15.5

Metropolitan areas ...................... 19.9 3.0 16.9

Albany-Schenectady-Troy .............. 15.0 6.9 8.1

N e w Y o r k ................................ 27.3 3.7 23.6

Non-metropolitan areas .................. 7.4 2.0 5.4

N e w Jersey .................................. 11.9 3.1 8.8

Metropolitan areas ...................... 12.5 3.5 9.0

Allentown-Beth.-Easton,

Pa.-N.J. 2/ .......................... 10.7 8.0 2.7

A tlantic City .......................... 39.9 0.0 39.9

Jersey City ............................ 21.1 3.9 17.2

Paterson-Clifton-Passaic ............. 16.3 7.6 8.7

Non-metropolitan areas .................. 9.7 1.5 8.2

Pennsylvania .................... ........... 15.7 4.2 11.5

Metropolitan areas ...................... 14.4 3.7 10.7

A l l e n t o w n - B e t h . - E a s t o n ,

N.Y., Pa. 2/ ......................... 27.3 5.5 21.8

Altoona ....... .......................... 16.5 9.2 7.3

Binghamton, N.Y.-Pa. 2/ .............. 21.1 0.0 21.1

Harrisburg .............................. 16.3 3.9 12.4

Johnstown ............................... 20.0 0.0 20.0

Lancaster ............................... 14.6 3.4 11.2

Philadelphia, Pa.-N.J. 2/ ............ 14.9 4.1 10.8

Reading ................................. 25.9 16.7 9.2

Scranton ................................ 39.3 7.1 32.2

Wilkes-Barre-Hazleton ................. 44.7 6.5 38.2

Y o r k ..................................... 12.3 2.1 10.2

Non-metropolitan areas .................. 21.5 6.5 15.0

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Table 9 --Employment in Textiles and Apparel, as Percent

of Manufacturing Employment, by Selected States

and Areas, First Quarter 1967 1/ (continued)

States and areas Total Textiles Apparel

Missouri 3 / ................................. 7.7

Metropolitan areas ..................... 5.6

Non-metropolitan areas ................. 16.5

Virginia .................................... 20.9 11.5 9.4

Metropolitan areas ..................... 9.0 2.4 6.6

Lynchburg .............................. 17.2 8.5 8.7

Roanoke ............................... . 23.2 8.8 14.4

Non-metropolitan areas ................. 29.9 18.3 11.6

North Carolina ............................ 49.8 39.6 10.2

Metropolitan areas ..................... 24.4 16.8 7.6

Asheville .............................. 26.7 15.6 11.1

Charlotte ....... .. .................. . 26.4 19.6 6.8

Durham ................................. 25.1 21.2 4.0

Fayetteville .......................... 53.4 30.8 22.6

Greensboro-High Point ............... 21.4 15.7 5.7

Raleigh ................................ 18.4 10.7 7.7

Wilmington .......................... . 34.9 12.7 22.2

Non-metropolitan areas ................. 62.1 50.7 11.4

South Carolina .................... ........ 58.3 45.6 12.7

Metropolitan areas ..................... 46.5 32.7 13.8

Augusta, Ga.-S.C. 2 / ................. 46.3 40.9 5.4

Charleston ............................ 22.5 8.8 13.7

Columbia ............................... 18.5 6.5 12.3

Greenville ............................ 61.1 44.3 16.8

Non-metropolitan areas .................. 64.0 51.8 12.2

Georgia ..................................... 40.4 25.0 15.4

Metropolitan areas ..................... 22.8 16.9 5.9

Albany ................................. 41.1 38.2 2.9

Atlanta .................... ........... 13.5 6.3 7.2

Augusta, Ga.-S.C. 2/ ................. 31.6 28.8 2.8

C h a t t a n o o g a , T e n n .- G a ................. 90.1 83.5 6.6

Columbus, Ga.-Ala. 27 ............... 62.0 58.2 3.8

Macon .................................. 24.1 18.1 6.0

Savannah ............................... 2.3 0.0 2.3

Non-metropolitan areas .............. . 54.9 32.4 22.5

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Table 9 --Employment in Textiles and Apparel, as Percent 

of Manufacturing Employment, by Selected States 

and Areas, First Quarter 1967 1 / (continued)

States and areas Total Textiles Apparel

Tennessee .............................. 23.3 7.1 16.2

Metropolitan areas ................... 14.9 9.8 5.1

Chattanooga, Tenn.-Ga. 2/ ........... 14.0 12.0 2.0

Knoxville ...................... . 24.3 21.7 2.6

Nashville .......................... 14.8 5.5 9.3

Non-metropolitan areas ............... 3 1.8 4.4 27.1

Alabama ................................ 27.0 13.6 13.4

Metropolitan areas ................... 5.9 2.9 3.0

Columbus, Ga.-Ala. 2/ .............. 12.8 0.0 12.8

Montgomery ............ ............. 12.3 7.9 4.4

Non-metropolitan areas ............... 46.4 23.4 23.0

Mississippi 3/ .......................... 21.9

Metropolitan areas ................... 4.8

Non-metropolitan areas ............... 23.7

Texas 3/ ............................... 8.2

Metropolitan areas ................... 7.4

Abiline ............................ 9.4

Brownsville-Harlingen-San Benito .... 21.5

El Paso ....... - ................... 56.6

Laredo ............................. 23.8

McAllen-Edinburg ................... 10.8

San Antonio ........................ 15.4

Wichita Falls ...................... 14.1

Non-metropolitan areas ............... 11.5

California 3/ .......................... 4.4

Metropolitan areas ................... 4.5

Non-metropolitan areas ................ 3.3

1/ Employment covered by old-age, survivors, and disability 

insurance (excludes mainly self-employed workers)*

2/ For metropolitan areas falling in two or more States, an attempt 

was made to distinguish employment for each State involved.

3/ Textile employment in Missouri, Mississippi, Texas, and 

California was relatively insignificant in 1967.

Source: U.S. Department of Commerce, Bureau of the Census.

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Table 10.--Percent Distribution of Employees, by 

Employment-Size Class, by Selected 

Industry, First Quarter 1967 1/

Employment-size 

of establishments Manufacturing Textiles Apparel

i to 19 ................. 6.2 2.3 6.4

20 to 49 ................. 8.2 5.0 14.0

50 to 99 ................. 9.3 7.4 17.4

100 to 249 ................ 16.0 18.2 26.0

250 to 499 ................ 14.3 22.4 19.3

500 or more ............... 46.0 44.9 16.9

JV Employment covered by old-age, survivors, and disability 

insurance (excludes mainly self-employed workers).

Source: U.S. Department of Commerce, Bureau of the Census.

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Table 11.--Percent Distribution of Establishments, by

Employment Size-Class, by Selected Industry, 

First Quarter 1967 and 1962 1/

Employment-size 

of Establishments

Manu fac tur ing Textiles Apparel

1967 1962 1967 1962 1967 1962

i to 19 .................. 62.9 65.7 37.2 40.1 49.1 51.8

20 to 49 .................. 17.0 16.5 19.9 19.5 23,9 24.1

50 to 99 .................. 8.7 7.9 13.6 13.5 13.7 12.9

100 to 249 ................. 6.7 6.0 14.9 14.4 9.1 8.1

250 to 499 ................. 2.7 2.3 8.3 7.4 3.1 2.3

500 or more ................ 2.1 1.7 6.1 5.2 1.1 0.7

JL/ Employment covered by old-age, survivors, and disability 

insurance (excludes mainly self-employed workers').

Source: U.S. Department of Commerce, Bureau of the Census.

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Table 12.--Percent Distribution of Employed Workers in

Manufacturing, Textiles, and Apparel, by Broad 

Occupational Group, 1968

Occupational group Manufacturing Textiles Apparel

Total .................... 100.0 100.0 100.0

Professional, technical and

k i ndrpH w nrlfprs ...................................... 9.6 2.7 1.0

Managers, officials, and

proprietors ................... 6.2 3.0 3.9

Clerical and kindred workers .... 12.5 8.0 7.6

Sales workers ................... 2.4 .9 1.6

Craftsmen, foremen and

kindred workers ............... 18.9 12.1 5.2

Operatives and kindred

workers ....................... 43.7 67.3 78.3

Service workers ................. 1.5 1.7 1.0

Laborers, except farm ........... 5.2 4.2 1.4

Source: U.S. Department of Labor, Bureau of Labor Statistics

(unpublished).

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Table 13. --Percent Distribution of Years of School 

Completed by the Experienced Civilian 

Labor Force in Manufacturing, Textiles, 

and Apparel, 1960

Years of school

completed Manufacturing Textiles Apparel

Total....................... 100.0 100.0 100.0

Elementary

Less than 5................... . 4.7 9.4 7.4

5 to 7........................... 12.8 25.1 17.2

8 ......................... ....... 16.8 16.8 21.8

High school

1 to 3....................... . 24.1 24.0 26.1

4 ................................ 27.7 18.9 22.0

College

1 to 3........................... 8.0 3.5 3.9

4................................ 4.2 1.8 1.3

5 or more........................ 1.7 0.4 0.4

Source: U.S. Department of Commerce, Bureau of the Census.

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Table 14 --Percentage Distribution of .Nonwhite

Employment in Manufacturing, Textiles 

and Apparel, by Sex, 1962 to 1968

Year ’

Manufacturing Textiles Apparel

Total Men Women Total Men Women Total Men Women

1962 7.4 5.9 1.6 4.8 3.7 i.i 9.3 2.8 6.5

1963 7.3 5.8 1.5 4.9 3.5 1.4 9.4 2.2 7.1

1964 7.5 5.8 1.7 5.5 3.8 1.6 9.1 2.0 7.1

1965 8.2 6.4 1.8 6.3 4.4 1.9 9.7 2.6 7.1

1966 8.6 6.7 1.9 8.0 5.6 2.3 11.1 2.3 8.9

1967 9.3 7.0 2.3 8.7 5.8 2.9 12.4 2.6 9.8

1968 9.7 7.1 2.6 9.5 6.0 3.6 12.7 2.6 10.2

Source: U.S. Department of Labor, Bureau of Labor Statistics#

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Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis
71

Table 15. --Percent Employment of Negroes in the 

Textile Industry, by Selected States, 

1966 1/

State Total

Metropolitan

area

Non-metropolitan 

$rea

Total........... ......... 8 10 7

New England

Massachusetts.................

Middle Atlantic

2 2 2/

New York......... ............. 5 7 2

New Jersey.................... 13 13 13

South

Alabama....................... 8 10 7

Georgia....................... 10 15 7

North Carolina................. 8 11 8

South Carolina................ 9 11 9

Tennessee............ ......... 5 7 2

Virginia...................... 10 14 9

1/ The selected States accounted for about 80 percent of 

employment in textile mills in 1966. (Percents are rounded to 

nearest whole number.)

2/ Less than 1 percent.

Source: Equal Employment Opportunity Commission (EEOC)

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Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis
72

Table 16. --Percent Employment of Negroes in the 

Apparel Industry, by Selected States, 

1966 1/

State Total

Metropolitan

area

Non-metropo1itan 

area

Total............. 9 12 6

New England

Massachusetts.............. 6 6 2/

Middle Atlantic

New York................... 10 11 4

New Jersey................. 14 15 10

Pennsylvania............... 11 11 2/

North Central

Illinois................... 12 16 3

Missouri................... 7 j 13 1

South

Alabama.................... 6 i 13 5

Georgia.................... 9 i 13 8

Mississippi................ 6 ' 21 6

North Carolina........... . . 9 13 8

South Carolina............. 16 16 16

Tennessee.................. 4 j 1 3

Texas...................... 7 | 7 6

Virginia................... 14 j 23 9

Pacific

California...... ........... 11 11 3

1/ The selected States accounted for about 80 percent of 

employment in the apparel industry in 1966. (Percents are rounded 

to nearest whole number.)

2/ Less than 1 percent.

Source: Equal Employment Opportunity Commission (EEOC)

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Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis
Table 17. --Employment of Women in Manufacturing and in Textile and 

Apparel Industries, 1960 and 1967.1/

SIC

1967 1960

Industry Number

(000)

Percent 

distribution

Number

(000)

Percent

distriTotal Women Total Women bution

D Manufacturing .................................. 19,434.0 5,348.0 27.5 16,796.0 4,372.0 . 26.0

22 Textile mill products .......................... 956.9 427.7 44.7 924.4 401.5 43.4

221 Weaving mills, cotton broad woven fabrics ...... 236.2 92.7 39.2 254.0 98.3 38.7

222 Weaving mills, synthetics .............. ...... 101.1 36.1 35.7 84.4 28.8 34.1

223 Weaving and finishing mills, wool .............. 43.4 15.7 36.2 55.6 18.8 33.8

224 Narrow fabric mills .......................... 30.5 17.4 57.0 27.6 14.7 53.3

225 Knitting mills ............................... 229.7 157.3 68.5 215.4 148.9 69.1

226 Textile finishing, except wool ................ 78.5 19.6 25.0 77.0 16.5 21.4

227 Floor covering mills ......................... 45.9 15.0 32.7 37.6 11.8 31.4 1

228 Yarn and thread mills ......... ............... 114.4 52.0 45.5 102.5 44.7 43.6 w

229 Miscellaneous textile goods ................... 77.2 21.9 28.4 70.2 18.9 26.9 i

23 Apparel and other textile products .............. 1,400.4 1,118.5 79.9 1,233.2 962.2 78.0

231 Men*s and boy*s suits and coats ............... 128.2 90.9 70.9 119.6 80.8 67.6

232 Men*s and boy*s furnishings ................... 368.9 311.9 84.5 303.8 257.1 84.6

233 Women*s and misses* outerwear ................. 421.8 351.3 83.3 371.2 301.0 81.1

234 Women*s and children*s undergarments .......... 125.1 108.7 86.9 117.7 101.9 86.6

235 Hats, caps, and millinery ..................... 25.2 16.8 66.7 34.6 21.9 63.3

236 Childrens outerwear .......................... 78.1 66.8 85.5 76.7 64.7 84.4

237-8 Fur goods and miscellaneous apparel ........... 81.4 59.4 73.0 69.9 49.2 70.4

239 Miscellaneous fabricated textile products ...... 171.7 112.6 65.6 139.9 85.6 61.2

1/ Private wage and salary workers.

Source: U.S. Department of Labor, Bureau of Labor Statistics.

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Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis
74

Table 18* --Percent Distribution of Employed Persons in 

Manufacturing, Textiles and Apparel, by 

Age, 1960 and 1950

1960

Age Manufacturing Textiles Apparel

14 to 17....................... 1.8 1.0 1.5

18 to 24....................... 12.3 12.9 12.7

25 to 34....................... 23.7 21.3 19.4

35 to 44....................... 26.7 25.8 25.5

45 to 59....................... 28.4 32.3 31.7

60 + ........................... 7.0 6.5 9.1

1950

Source: U.S. Department of Commerce, Bureau of the Census.

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Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis
Table 19--Changes in Average Hourly and Weekly Earnings and Average Weekly Hours of Production Workers in

Textile Manufacturing, October 1958 to October 1968

Industry SIC

Gross average hourly

earnings

Gross average weekly

earnings Average weekly hours

Average hourly earnings

excluding premium pay

for overtime work

Oct.

1958

Oct.

1968

Percent

change

Oct.

1958

Oct.

1968

Percent

change

Oct.

1958

Oct.

1968

Percent

change

Oct.

1958

Oct.

1968

Percent

change

All manufacturing --------------------- 19-39 $2.11 $3.06 45.0 $83.77 $125.77 50.1 39.7 41.1 3.5 $2.05 $2.92 42.4

All textiles -------------------------- 22 1.51 2.27 50.3 60.55 94.21 55.6 40.1 41.5 3.5 1.46 2.16 47.9

Broad woven cotton fabrics ------------ 221 1.43 2.26 58.0 57.63 93.79 62.7 40.3 41.5 3.0 1.38 2.15 55.8

Broad woven silk and synthetic fabrics -- 222 1.52 2.33 53.3 61.56 101.36 64.7 40.5 43.5 7.4 1.47 2.18 48.3

Weaving and finishing broad woolens ---- 223 1.60 2.34 46.3 66.56 99.45 49.4 41.6 42.5 2.2 1.53 2.22 45.1

Narrow fabrics and smallwares ---------- 224 1.57 2.25 43.3 62.02 91.35 47.3 39.5 40.6 2.8 1.52 2.16 42.1

Knitting ------------------------------ 225 1.47 2.18 48.3 57.48 86.33 50.2 39.1 39.6 1.3 1.43 2.10 46.9

Women's full and knee length hosiery --- 2251 1.55 2.19 41.3 61.07 86.72 42.0 39.4 39.6 0.5 1.52 2.14 40.8

All other hosiery--------------------- 2252 1.27 2.01 58.3 47.88 75.98 58.7 37.7 37.8 0.3 1.25 1.98 58.4

Knit outerwear ------------------------ 2253 1.55 2.28 47.1 60.30 88.92 47.5 38.9 39.0 0.3 1.52 2.23 46.7

Knit underwear ------------------------ 2254 1.41 2.04 44.7 55.98 81.40 45.4 39.7 39.9 0.5 1.38 1.99 44.2

Finishing textiles, except wool and

knit ------------------- r ----------- 226 1.67 2.41 44.3 70.14 101.46 44.7 42.0 42.1 0.2 1.60 2.28 42.5

Floor covering ------------------------ 227 1.70 2.31 35.9 71.57 100.25 40.1 42.1 43.4 3.1 1.64 2.17 32.3

Yarn and thread ----------------------- 228 1.41 2.12 50.4 55.13 87.77 59.2 39.1 41.4 5.9 1.37 2.02 47.4

Miscellaneous textile goods ----------- 229 1.71 2.49 45.6 69.26 106.82 54.2 40.5 42.9 5.9 1.65 2.35 42.4

Source: U.S. Department of Labor, Bureau of Labor Statistics

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Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis
- 76 -

Table 20--Annual Earnings 1/ of Workers in the Textile Industry

and Selected Branches, 1964 2/

Item

Textile

mill

products

Broadwoven fabric

mills, cotton

Knitting

mills

Number of workers

(in thousands):

T o t a l ..................... 1,067.3 263 289.6

4 q u a r t e r s............... 790.0 211 190.7

Annual earnings, 1/

United States:

M e a n ....................... $4,295 $4,349 $3,722

Median. .......... 3,719 3,845 3,099

Middle r a n g e............. 2,973- 3,256- 2,481-

4,755 4,681 4,146

M e a n annual earnings 1/

in the:

S o u t h e a s t ................. $4,060 $4,364 $3,367

S o u t h w e s t ................. 3,782 3,733 3,637

1/ Includes all production and nonproduction workers employed in

the industry in each of the 4 calendar quarters.

2/ Most current information from this source.

Source: Bureau of Labor Statistics, Division of Trends in Employee

Compensation, from the Social Security A d m i n i s t r a t i o n s

l»percent Continuous Work History Sample.

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Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis
Table 21— Estimated Proportions of Production Workers Earning Less Than $2.00 an Hour in Selected Textile Industries, United States

and Southeast, October 1968

No. of

produc- Date of most

Straight-time

earnings as of

: average hourly

: date of survey--

Estimated general wage

Estimated current 1/ straighttime average hourly earnings--

Industry and region SIC tion

workers

recent

survey

All product ionPercent earning

less than--

change since

survey

All production

Percent earning

less than--

(000's) workers $2.00 workers $2.00

Cotton:

United States.... . 2211; parts of 2/201.2 Sept. 1968 $2.06 50.8 - $2.06 50.8

Southeast ...........

2281, 2282,

2284

189.8 2.06 50.6

*

2.06 50.6

Synthetic:

United States ......... 2221; parts of 3/139.0 Sept. 1968 2.06 54.7 - 2.06 54.7

Southeast ...........

2281, 2282,

2284

113.0 _ 2.05 56.1 _ 2.05 56.1

Wool:

United States ......... Part of 2231; 41.8 Nov. 1966 1.90 69.2 8.4% 2.06-2.12 44.7-52.0

Southeast ......... ..

2283

18.4 - 1.82 79.4 10.0 2.00 59.0

Women’s Hosiery:

United States ......... 2251 44.5 Sept. 1967 1.89 66.5 9.7 2.07-2.11 49.0-51.9

Southeast ............ 38.4 - 1.89 66.6 10.1 2.08-2.11 48.4-51.5

Men’s Hosiery:

United States ......... Part of 2252 20.1 Sept. 1967 1.71 81.9 11.4 1.90-1.94 66.0-69.6

Southeast ........... 16.2 - 1.69 83.5 11.4 1.88-1.92 58.3-71.8

Children's Hosiery:

United States.... . Part of 2252 15.3 Sept. 1967 1.66 87.2 11.4 1.85-1.89 71.4-75.0

Southeast...... . 14.8 - 1.66 87.0 11.4 1,85-1.89 71.2-74.8

Textile dyeing and

finishing:

United States .......... 226 54.8 Winter 1.96 62.7 11,7 2.19-2.28 28.7-37.5

Southeast ............ 31.7 1965-66 1.83 79.8 12.4 2.06-2.13 39.0-49.4

1/ October 1968. Where general wage changes and changes in gross earnings differ substantially, two estimates of current earnings are presented;

one computed by adjusting earnings as of the date of the survey by general wage changes, and the second by adjusting these earnings by the percent

change in gross earnings.

2/ Excludes 19,564 workers in bleaching, cloth dyeing and finishing, and fabricating departments.

3 j Excludes 6,593 workers in bleaching, cloth dyeing and finishing, and fabricating departments.

Source: U.S. Department of Labor, Bureau of Labor Statistics

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Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis
Table 22— Paid Holiday Provisions for Production Workers in Selected Textile Industries, United States and Selected Regions

Industry and selected

regions

Date of most

Percent of workers covered by provisions for--

recent survey 1 holiday

2 holidays

3 holidays4 holidays

5 holidays

6 to 6^

holidays

7 to 7 k

holidays

8 to 8%

holidays

9 holidays

Over 9

holidays

No holidays

TEXTILES

Cotton and man-made:

United States ............ Sept. 1968 4 17 15 31 6 7 2 1 1/ 1/ 15

Southeast .............. 5 19 16 35 7 3 1/ - - - 16

Southwest .............. - 11 31 23 - - - - - - 35

Wool:

United States ............ Nov. 1966 3 22 2 3 8 34 10 7 1 - 11

Southeast .............. 6 49 4 4 12 10 2 1 - - 13

Women's hosiery:

United States ............ Sept. 1967 5 18 12 2 16 1 4 - - - 43

Southeast .............. 4 21 13 1/ 16 - y - - - 46

Men's hosiery:

United States ............ Sept. 1967 - 14 5 1 7 4 6 - - - 62

Southeast .............. - 18 6 2 1 - - - - - 73

Children's hosiery:

United States ......... . Sept. 1967 7 4 9 4 - 1/ - - - - 76

Southeast .............. 7 4 9 4 - - - - - - 76

Textile dyeing and finishing:

United States ............ Winter 8 8 16 7 3 9 13 9 14 1 11

Southeast .......... .... ’

1965-66

14 14 28 12 5 9 1 - - - 17

1/ Less than 0.5 percent.

Source: U.S. Department of Labor, Bureau of Labor Statistics

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Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis
Table 23— Vacation Benefits in Selected Textile Industries, United States and Selected Regions

Percent of workers receiving--

In d u stry and se le c te d 

regions Date of survey Paid v acatio ns 1/

1 week or more v acatio n a f te r 1 y e a r's serv ic e

2 weeks or more a f te r 1 y e a r's 

serv ice

2 weeks a f te r 

5 years' 

serv ice

3 weeks a f te r 15 y e a rs' serv ice

TEXTILES

Cotton and man-made f ib e r s : United S ta te s ...................... September 1968 96 95 3 74 7

Southeast .......................... 96 95 3 73 5 Southwest .......................... 87 80 - 76 -

Wool: United S ta te s ...................... November 1966 97 93 6 76 18 Southeast .......................... 98 94 10 85 4

Women*s h o siery : United S tates ...................... September 1967 86 85 11 60 17 Southeast .......................... 85 85 13 61 16

Men’s h o sie ry : United S t a t e s ........... September 1967 70 61 1 45 10 Southeast .......................... 64 56 - 43 8

C h ild re n s h o sie ry : United S ta te s .................... September 1967 70 64 4 31 -

Southeast .......................... 69 63 4 30 -

T e x tile dyeing and f i n ­ ish in g : United S ta te s ...................... W inter 1965-66 96 96 4 86 22 Southeast .......................... 93 93 1 85 7

1/ Vacation payments such as percent of annual earnings and flat-sum amounts were converted to an equivalent time 

basis.

Source: U.S. Department of Labor, Bureau of Labor Statistics

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Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis
Table 24— Health and Welfare Benefits for Production Workers in Selected Textile Industries

United States and Selected Regions *

Percent of workers covered by provisions paid for wholly 

employers--

or in part by

Industry and region

Date and scope 

of survey 

(SIC code) Life

insurance

Accidental 

death and 

dismemberment

Sickness and 

accident 

benefits 

(including 

paid sick 

leave)

Hospital

benefits

Surgical

benefits

Medical

benefits

Pension

plan

Cotton and man-made fibers:

United States ......... September 1968 

2211; parts of 2281; 

2282; 2284

96 62 62 97 97 64 68

Southeast ............ 97 63 61 97 97 63 72

Southwest ........... 97 21 80 97 97 51 65

Wool:

United States ........ . November 1966 

2231; 2283

91 60 74 95 94 62 40

Southeast ........... 99 44 82 99 98 46 59

Women*s hosiery:

United States .......... September 1967 

2251

88 70 41 91 92 61 28

Southeast ......... . 92 73 42 93 94 60 31

Men*s hosiery:

United States ......... September 1967 

Part of 2252

76 51 32 69 68 32 21

Southeast ........ . 78 54 27 66 66 27 22

Children*s hosiery:

United States .......... September 1967 

Part of 2252

74 51 28 80 80 39

Textile dyeing and 

finishing;

United States...... . Winter 1965-66 

226

93 52 70 98 98 50 57

Southeast.... ....... 93 57 67 99 99 24

______

58

Source: U.S. Department of Labor, Bureau of Labor Statistics

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Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis
Table 25—General Wage Increases,. Cotton and. Synthetic Textile Industries, North and South, 1950-68

Year

South North

Period Amount Period Amount

1968 .......................... Summer Est. approx, 6% April 3.5% (avg. approx. 7c)

1967 .......................... September Est, approx, 67, April 3.1% (avg. approx. 6c)

1966 .......................... Summer Approx, 4%%-5% April 10c

1965 .......................... Summer 5% April 5% (avg. approx. 8%c)

1964 .......................... September 57« April 5%

1963 ......................... November 57.

1962 .......................... February Est, approx, 5$ April 3fc%

1960 .......................... February Approx, 5c April 5%

1959 .......................... February Upward adjustment April 7%

(est, approx. 10c)

1958 ..... .................... April None

1957 .......................... April None

1956 .......................... October Avg. 10c April 6 h%

1955 .......................... August Avg. 5C April None

1954 .......................... April None

1953 .......................... April None

1952 .......................... July Avg. 8%c decrease

Arbitrator's decision

1951 .......................... April 27. March 6%% increase

1950 .......................... Fall Approx. 87. Sept. 10% (avg. 12%c)

Total increase from—

October 1958-October 1968 .... Approx. 78c or 56% Approx. 64C or 43%

January 1950-October 1968 ..... Approx. $1.04 or 92% Approx. 83c or 64^%

Source: U.S. Department of Labor, Bureau of Labor Statistics

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Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis
- 82 -

Table 26--Annual Earnings of Textile Workers, 1/

1946-64 2/

Year M e dian annual earnings

1946 ............................................ $1,670

1947 ......................... .................. 2,030

1948 ................................. .......... 2,250

1949 ............................................ 2,140

1950 ........................... ................ 2,390

1951 ............................................ 2,450

1952 ...................................... ..... 2,530

1953 ............................................ 2,580

1954 ............................................ 2,470

1955 ............................................ 2,730

1956 ............................................ NA

1957 ............................................ 2,830

1958 ............................................ 2,810

1959 ............................................ 3,110

I960 ........ ................................... NA

1961 ............................................ 3,180

1962 .......................... *................ 3,360

1963 ............... ............................ 3,430

1964 ............................................ 3,716

Percent increase:

1946-64 ......................... .... .......... 122.5

1954-64 ........................................ 50.6

1959-64 ........................................ 19.6

1/ Includes all production and nonproduction workers employed in

any industry in each of the 4 calendar quarters who had some employment in the textile industry during one or more quarters of the year,

2/ Most current information from this source.

Source: Bureau of Labor Statistics, Division of Trends in Employee

Compensation, from the Social Security Administration's

1-percent Continuous Work History Sample.

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Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis
Table 27— Proportion of Workers Covered by Union Agreements in Selected Textile Industries,

United States and Selected Regions

Industry and region 1/ Scope of survey

(SIC code) Date of survey Major Unions

Number of

production

workers in

industry

Percent of

workers

covered by

union

agreements

TEXTILES

Cotton:

United States .............. 2211; parts of Sept, 1968 Textile Workers Union of America 2/ 220,784 3/ 17

2281, 2282, 2284 -United Textile Workers of America

Southeast ........................... 189,808 3/ 14

Southwest .......................... 5,255 3/ 31

Synthetic:

United States ....................... 2221; parts of Sept, 1968 Textile Workers Union of America 4/ 145,573 3/ 13

2281, 2282, 2284

Southeast..................... 113,264 31 1

Wool:

United States ................... , , Parts of 2231; Nov. 1966 United Textile Workers of America 41,765 32

2283 Textile Workers Union of America

Southeast.......................... 18,409 9

Wome n' s hos iery:

United States ........................ 2251 Sept. 1967 Textile Workers Union of America 44,545 5

Southeast .......................... 38,428 4

Men's hosiery:

United States................. Part of 2252 Sept. 1967 Textile Workers Union of America 20,078 9

Southeast.......................... 16,238 2

Children's hosiery:

United States ...................... Part of 2252 Sept. 1967 Textile Workers Union of America 15,255 5

Southeast .............. 14,755 5

Textile dyeing and finishing:

United States ........................ 226 Winter 1965-66 Textile Workers Union of America 54,774 45

Southeast ........................... 31,651 26

1/ The regions include: Southeast - Alabama, Florida, Georgia, Mississippi, North Carolina, South Carolina, Tennessee, and

Virginia; and Southwest - Arkansas, Louisiana, Oklahoma, and Texas*

2/ Includes 19,564 workers in bleaching, cloth dyeing and finishing, and fabricating departments,

3/ 1968 data on union coverage were not available when this table was prepared; figures are for September 1965--the date of

the latest survey from which such data are available. Information indicates no substantial change in unionization since 1965,

4/ Includes 6,593 workers in bleaching, cloth dyeing and finishing, and fabricating departments.

Source: U.S, Department of Labor, Bureau of Labor Statistics

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Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis
Table 28--Membership of the Major Unions in the Textile and Apparel Industries, 1956, 1960, 1964 and 1966^/

Union 2/

Total union membership Estimated membership 

in the industries 3/

1956 1960 1964 1966 1964 1966

Totals ............................ ........... ,1.232,982 1,138,262 1,109,978 1,126,945 ,

Amalgamated Clothing Workers of A m e r i c a...... . 385,000 377,000 377,000 382,000 301,600 305,600

United Garment Workers of America ................. 40,000 35,000 26,000 27,000 NA 27,000

International Ladies* Garment Workers* Union ...... 450,802 446,554 442,318 455,164 434,072 448,000

United Hatters, Cap and Millinery Workers

International Union ............................ 40,000 40,000 40,000 30,000 40,000 30,000

Amalgamated Lace Operatives of Am e r i c a...... . 3,500 975 2,050 2,225 2,050 2,225

Machine Printers and Engravers Association of

the United States ........... ................... 980 1,400 1,400 1,300 NA 1,300

Textile Foremen*s Guild, Inc. 4 / ...... ......................... 210 215 210 215

United Textile Workers of America ................. 100,000 40,000 44,000 47,041 44,000 47,041

Textile Workers Union of A m e r i c a...... ........... 202,700 192,000 177,000 182,000 168,150 172,900

American Federation of Hosiery Workers 5/ ........ 10,000 5,333

1/ Unions with a majority of their membership in these industries. From the biennial survey of union membership. 

Division of Industrial and Labor Relations, Bureau of Labor Statistics, U.S. Department of Labor.

2/ List omits plant unions.

3/ Data are computed from union percentage estimates of members in the industries. Such estimates were not available 

for 1956 and 1960.

4/ The Textile Foremen*s Guild first became a National Union in 1962.

5/ The American Federation of Hosiery Workers merged with the Textile Workers Union of America on April 15, 1965. 

Source: U.S. Department of Labor, Bureau of Labor Statistics

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Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis
Table 29-- Work Stoppages in the United States, All Industries and Textiles, 1956-67

Year

All industries Textile industries

St<jppages Man-days idle during year... Stoi’Pages f Man-days idle during year

Number

Workers

involved Number

Percent of 

estimated 

total private nonfarm 

working time

Per worker 

involved Number

Workers

involved Number

Percent of 

estimated 

total 

working 

time

Per worker 

involved

1956 • • • • 3,825 1,900,000 33,100,000 • 29 17*4 70 18,200 426,000 .16 23.4

1957 • • • • 3,673 1,390,000 16,500,000 .14 11.4 47 14,000 212,000 .08 15.1

1958 • • • • 3,694 2,060,000 23,900,000 .22 11.6 51 6,370 111,000 .05 17.4

1959 • * • • 3,708 1,880,000 69,000,000 .61 36.7 70 23,500 229,000 .09 9.7

1960 • • • • 3,333 1,320,000 19,100,000 .17 14.5 30 4,770 34,000 .01 7.1

1961 • • • • 3,367 1,450,000 16,300,000 .12 11.2 35 5,970 39,100 .02 6.5

1962 * *«• 3,614 1,230,000 18,600,000 .16 15.0 50 6,990 99,900 .04 14.2

1963 • • • • 3,362 941,000 16,100,000 .13 17.1 36 13,000 193,000 .09 14.8

1964 «• • • 3,655 1,640,000 22,900,000 .18 14.0 37 8,440 124,000 .05 14.6

1965 • • • • 3,963 1,550,000 23,300,000 .18 15.1 44 21,300 174,000 .07 8.1

1966 • • • • 4,405 1,960,000 25,400,000 .18 12.9 56 25,700 195,000 .08 7.5

1967 • • • • 4,595 2,870,000 42,100,000 .30 14.7 54 15,900 328,000 .14 20.6

Source: U.S. Department of Labor, Bureau of Labor Statistics

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Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis
Table 30-- Changes in Average Hourly and Weekly Earnings and Average Weekly Hours of Production

Workers in Apparel Manufacturing, October 1958i/ to October 1968

Industry SIC

Gross averag

earnin

e hourly

gs

Gross average weekly

earnings

Average weekly hours

Avera

excl

fa

ge hourly earnings

uding premium pay

r overtime work

Oct.

1958

Oct.

1968

Percent

change

Oct.

1958

Oct.

1968

Percent

change

Oct.

1958

Oct.

1968

Percent

change

Oct.

1958

Oct.

1968

Percent

change

All manufacturing ....... ............ 19-39 $2.11 $3.06 45.0 $83.77 $125.77 50.1 39.7 41.1 3.5 $2.05 $2.92 42.4

All apparel .......................... 23 1.56 2.27 45.5 55.85 82.63 47.9 35.8 36.4 1.7 1.53 2.22 45.1

Men's and boys' coats and suits ..... 231 1.75 2.68 53.1 60.90 103.18 69.4 34.8 38.5 10.6 1.74 2.61 50.0

Men's and boys' furnishings ......... 232 1.30 1. 95 50.0 42.84 71.96 68.0 36.8 36.9 0.3 1.28 1.92 50.0

Men's and boys' shirts and nightwear 2321 1.29 1.92 48.$ 48.63 69.89 43.7 37.7 36.4 -3.4 1.22 1.90 55.7

Men's and boys' separate trousers .... 2327 1.31 1.94 48.1 46.90 72.36 54.3 35.8 37.3 4.2 1.27 1.91 50.4

Work clothing ....................... 2328 1.24 1.92 54.8 45.26 70.66 56.1 36.5 36.8 0.8 1.19 1.90 59.7

Women's, misses', and juniors'

outerwear .......................... 233 1.76 2.45 39.2 58.43 83.30 42.6 33.2 34.0 2.4 1.73 2.41 39.3

Women's blouses, waists, and shirts .. 2331 1.45 2.09 44.1 49.74 71.90 44.6 34.3 34.4 0.3 1.45 2.04 40.7

Women's, misses', and juniors'

dresses ............................ 2335 1.72 2.55 48.3 56.07 84.66 51.0 32.6 33.2 1.8 1.70 2.51 47.6

Women's suits, skirts, and coats .... 2337 2.17 2.78 28.1 70.96 95.08 34.0 32.7 34.2 4.6 2.14 2.72 27.1

Women's and misses' outerwear, not

elsewhere classified .......... . 2339 1.42 2.08 46.5 51.12 74.05 44*9 36.0 35.6 -1.1 1.37 2.01 46.7

Women's and childrens' undergarments . 234 1.43 2.06 44.1 53.77 76.43 42.1 37.6 37.1 -1.3 1.40 2.02 44.3

Women's and childrens' underwear .... 2341 1.39 2.01 44.6 52.96 75.17 41.9 38.1 37.4 -1.8 1.31 1.91 45.8

Corsets and allied garments ......... 2342 1.51 2.16 43.0 55.12 79.06 43.4 36.5 36.6 0.3 1.45 2.07 42.8

Hats, caps, and millinery ........... 235 1.75 2.12 21.1 61.25 75.26 22.9 35.0 35.5 1.4 1.70 2.08 22.4

Girls' and childrens' outerwear ..... 236 1.42 2.07 45.8 51.69 74.93 45.0 36.4 36.2 -0.5 1.40 2.03 45.0

Childrens' dresses, blouses, and

shirts ............................. 2361 1.40 2.04 45.7 49.42 72.62 46.9 35.3 35.6 0.8 1.36 1.97 44.9

Fur goods and miscellaneous apparel .. 237,8 1.74 2.38 36.8 64.90 87.58 34.9 37.3 36.8 -1.3 1.69 2.33 37.9

Miscellaneous fabricated textile

products .......... ................ 239 1.53 2.39 56.2 59.82 93.21 55.8 39.1 39.0 -0.3 1.48 2.30 55.4

House furnishings .................. . 2391,2 1.41 2.01 42.6 54.00 77.59 43.7 38.3 38.6 0.8 1.33 1.97 48.1

1/ October 1958 is used rather than an annual average because of seasonality in some of the apparel industries. It is not possible to use an

average for 1957-59 because information was not available for 1957.

Source: U.S. Department of Labor, Bureau of Labor Statistics

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Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis
- 87 -

Table 31*»*»Annual Earnings 1/ of Workers in Apparel Industry

and Selected Branches, 1964 2/

Item Apparel

M e n fs youths*,

and boys*

furnishings,

work clothing,

and allied

garments

W o m e n 1s ,

m i s s e s * ,

and

juniors*

outerwear

Number of workers

(in thousands):

Total ................. 1,739.2 419.7 521.9

4 quarters ........... 1,143.3 269.2 334.1

Annual earnings, 1/

United States:

M e a n .................. $3,663 $3,224 $3,765

Med i a n ................ 2,874 2,744 2,878

Middle range ........ 2,295- 2,296- 2,250-

3,819 3,309 3,828

Mea n annual earnings 1/

in the:

Southeast ............ $2,996 $2,928 $2,967

Southwest ............ 3,457 3,046 3,506

1/ Includes all production and nonproduction workers employed

in the industry in each of the 4 calendar quarters.

2/ Most current information from this source.

Source: Bureau of Labor Statistics, Division of Trends in Employee

Compensation, from the Social Security A d m i n i s t r a t i o n s

l»percent Continuous Work History Sample.

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T ab le 32--Average Hourly Earnings!/ in Selected Occupations, Selected Apparel Industries

Estimated 

number of 

workers

Average hourly 

earnings at 

date of survey

Estimated

Occupation and industry Date of survey General wage 

changes since 

survey

Current average 

hourly earnings 2/ 

(October 1968)

Markers:

Men's and boys* suits and coats .... 

Men's and boys* shirts ............

441 April 1967 $3.06 $.389 $3.45-$3.50

348 April-June 1964 1.88 .300 $2.18-$2.41

Work clothing ...................... 312 February 1968 2.25 .135 $2.29-$2.39

Inspectors, final:

Men's and boys* suits and coats

(coat fabrication) .... ........ .

Men's and boys' shirts (end thread 

trimmers) ........ ..............

942 April 1967 2.09 .350 $2.39-$2.44

3,850 April-June 1964 1.36 .300 $1.66-$1.74

Work clothing ................ . 2,730 February 1968 1.84 .110 $1.87-$1.95

Pressers, finish, machine:

Men's and boys' suits and coats 

(coat fabrication) ...... ....... 4,370 April 1967 3.00 .350 $3.35-$3.44

Men's and boys' shirts .... ....... 1,292 April-June 1964 1.51 .300 $1.81-$1.93

Work clothing ..................... 1,582 February 1968 1.92 .115 $1.95-$2.04

Sewing machine operators:

Men's and boys' suits and coats

(coat fabrication) ..............

Men's and boys' shirts......... .

32,895 April 1967 2.31 .350 $2.64-$2.66

57,237 April-June 1964 1.44 .300 $1.74-$1.84

Work clothing...... .............. 44,363 February 1968 1.82 .109 $1.85-$1.93

Janitors:

Men's and boys' suits and coats .... 

Men's and boys' shirts ............

735 April 1967 1.74 .350 $1.99-$2.09

682 April-June 1964 1.33 .300 $1.63-$1.70

Work clothing .................... . 624 February 1968 1.68 .101 $1.71-$1.78

1/ Excludes premium pay for overtime and for work on weekends, holidays, and la te s h ifts , 2/ Where general wage changes and changes in gross earnings d iffer su b stan tially, two estim ates of current earnings are pre­ sented, one computed by adjusting earnings as of the date of the survey by general wage changes and the second by adjusting these earnings by the percent change in gross earnings. These estim ates may d iffer from actual earnings because earnings lev e ls change not only as a resu lt of wage-rate increases but also because of changes in the distrib u tion of employment among firms and in the average length of service. Earnings for piecework occupations also change with changes in output.

Source: U.S. Department of Labor, Bureau of Labor S ta tistic s

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Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis
Table 33-Esti”|t|dtProgortlons of^roduc^ign Workers Earning Less than $2.00 an Hour in Selected Apparel Industries. United States

No. of

produc- Date of most

Straight-time average hourly

earnings as of date of survey-- Estimated general wage

changes since

Estimated current 1/ straighttime average hourly earnings--

Industry and region SIC tion

workers

recent

survey

All productionPercent earning

less than—

All productionPercent earning

less than--

(000's) workers $2.00 survey workers $2.00

Men's and boys' suits and coats:

United States ............................ 2311 98.4 April 1967 $2.28 42.5 $.350 $2.63 21.8

Border States..................... . 13.7 - 2.11 48.3 .350 2.42-2.46 24.8-30.0

Southeast ................................ 8.9 - 1.83 71.3 .350 2.10-2.18 42.6-52.0

Men's and boys' shirts (except

work shirts) and nightwear:

United States ............................. 2321 96.9 April-June

1964

1.45 94.0 .300 1.75-1.86 76.2-85.1

Border States........................ 8.7 June 1964 1.42 96.2 .300 1.72-1.82 79.7-88.1

Southeast ................................ 55.1 - 1.38 97.4 .300 1.68-1.77 85.7-92.4

Southwest ................. .............. 2.5 - 1.30 99.6 .300 1.60-1.66 95.5-97.8

Work clothing:

United States ............................. 2328 62.8 Feb. 1968 1.84 77.6 .110 1.87-1.95 69.1-75.5

Border States ......................... 9.0 - 1.82 80.1 .109 1.85-1.93 71.4-77.8

Southeast ............................... 23.0 - 1.84 77.6 .110 1.87-1.95 69.0-75.4

Southwest ............................ 15.4 1.81 81.1 .109 1.84-1.92 73.7-79.3

1/ October 1968. Where general wage changes and changes in gross earnings differ substantially, two estimates of current earnings are presented,

one computed by adjusting earnings as of the date of the survey by general wage change^ and the second by adjusting these earnings by the percent

change in gross earnings.

Source: U.S. Department of Labor, Bureau of Labor Statistics

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Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis
90 -

Table 34--Annual Earnings of Apparel Workers, 1/

1946-64 2/

1946

1947

1948

1949

1950

1951

1952

1953

1954

1955

1956

1957

1958

1959

1960

1961

1962

1963

1964

Year Median annual earnings

$1,720

1,760

1,860

1,780

1,860

1,950

2,110

2,120

2,090

2,200

NA

2,340

2,350

2.520

NA

2.520

2,680

2,750

2,870

Percent

1946-64

1954-64

1959-64

i n c r e a s e :

66.9

37.3

13.9

JL/ Includes all production and nonproduction workers employed in

any industry in each of the 4 calendar quarters who had some employment in the apparel industry during one or more quarters of the year.

2/ Most current information from this source.

Source: Bureau of Labor Statistics, Division of Trends in Employee

Compensation, from the Social Security Administration's

1-percent Continuous W o r k History Sample.

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91

Table 35—Major C o llectiv e Bargaining Agreements in the Apparel Industry!./

Company or a sso ciatio n Union

Estimated employment covered by

agreement

Duration Expiration date

Clothing Manufacturers A ssociation of the U.S.A. - - - ------------------------------------- Clothing Workers 125,000 3 years 5/71

C luett Peabody and Company, Arrow D ivision ---------------------------------------------------- Clothing Workers 9,000 3 years 8/69

Men's and Boys' Leisurewear A ssociation --------------------------------------------------------- Clothing Workers 8,500 2 years 8/69

A ffilia te d Dress Manufacturers, In c.; National Dress Manufacturers Asso­ c ia tio n , In c.; Popular Priced Dress Manufacturers' Group, In c.; United B etter Dress Manufacturers' A ssociation , In c.; Popular Price Dress Contractors' A ssociation , Inc. --------------------------------------------------------------------- Ladies Garment Workers 80,000 3 years 1/70

National Skirt and Sportswear A ssociation , I n c .; National A ssociation of Blouse Manufacturers, In c.; and Greater Blouse, S k irt, and Neckwear Contractors A ssociation , Inc. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Ladies Garment Workers 33,000 3 years 5/70

New York Coat and Suit A ssociation , In c.; American Cloak and Suit Manu- facturers A ssociation; In fan ts' and C hildren's Coat A ssociation -------------- Ladies Garment Workers 42,000 3 years 5/70

A llie d Underwear A sso cia tion , In c.; Lingerie Manufacturers A ssociation of New York, In c .; N egligee Manufacturers A ssociation of New York, In c.; United Underwear Contractors Associition; and Undergarment A ccessories A sso cia tion , Inc. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Ladies Garment Workers 20,000 3 years 6/69

A ssociated Corset and B rassiere Manufacturers, Inc. ----------------------------------- Ladies Garment Workers 6,500 3 years 12/71

American M illinery Manufacturers A ssociation , Inc. ------------------------------------- H atters, Cap and 7,000 3 years 12/71

In du strial A ssociation of Juvenile Apparel Manufacturers, In c.; C hildren's D ress, Cotton D ress, and Sportswear Contractors A ssocia- tio n , I n c .; and New Jersey Apparel Contractors A ssociation , Inc. ------------

M illinery Workers

Ladies Garment Workers 15,000 3 years 1/70

In fan ts' and C hildren's Novelty A ssociation , In c.; Manufacturers of Snow- s u it s , Novelty Wear, and In fan ts' Coats, In c.; and In fan ts' and C hildren's Coat A ssociation , Inc. --------------------------------------------------------------- Ladies Garment Workers 9,500 3 years 5/70

Fashion Apparel Manufacturers A ssociation; and Philadelphia Apparel Producers A ssociation ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Ladies Garment Workers 11,000 3 years 1/3/69

A ssociation of Rain Apparel Contractors, In c.; and New York Raincoat Manufacturers A ssociation ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- Ladies Garment Workers 5,000 3 years 7/70

S late B elt Apparel Contractors A ssociation -------------------------------------------------- Ladies Garment Workers 15,000 3 years 5/70

A ssociated Fur Manufacturers, In c.; and Master Furriers Guild ------------------- Amalgamated Meat Cutters 7,000 4 years 2/69

P le a ter s. S titch ers and Embroiderers A ssociation , I n c .; National Hand Embroidery and Novelty Manufacturers A ssociation , In c.; A ssociated Manufacturers, Tubular Pipings and Trimmings, In c.; Covered Button A ssociation o f New York, I n c .; and Uniform Manufacturers Exchange, Ladies Garment Workers 8,000 3 years 2/70

United Knitwear Manufacturers League, In c.; A ssociation of Knitted Fabrics Manufacturers, In c.; Knitted A ccessories Group; and Passemen- te r ie and Trimming Manufacturers A ssociation --------------------------------------------- Ladies Garment Workers 15,000 3 years 7/70

Washable S u its, N o v elties, and Sportswear C ontractors, Inc. ---------------------- Clothing Workers 8,000 3 years 12/69

Boston Apparel Guild; and New England Sportswear Manufacturers A ssociation --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Ladies Garment Workers 5,000 39 months 6/70

Jonathan Logan, Inc. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Ladies Garment Workers 5,000 3 years 3/69

New York Raincoat Manufacturers A ssociation , The A ssociation o f Rain Apparel Contractors, and independent companies ------------------------------------------ Ladies Garment Workers 5,000 3 years 7/70

1/ Agreements covering 5,000 or more workers on f i l e with the D ivision of In du strial R elation s, Bureau o f Labor S t a t is tic s ,

U.S. Department of Labor, in January 1969.

Source: U.S. Department of Labor, Bureau of Labor S ta tis tic s

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Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis
Table 3 6 -- Work Stoppages in the United S ta te s , A ll In d u stries and A pparel, 1956-1967

Year

A ll in d u stries A]spare! in d u stries

Stoppages Man-days id le during year Stoppages Man-days id le during year

Number Workers

involved Number

Percent of

estim ated

to ta l p r i­ va te nonfarm

working time

Per worker

involved Number Workers

involved Number

Percent o f

estim ated

t o ta l

working

time

Per worker

involved

1956 . . . 3,825 1,900,000 33,100,000 .29 17.4 129 13,800 173,000 .06 12.5

1957 . . . 3,673 1,390,000 16,500,000 .14 11.4 128 16,400 215,000 .07 13.1

1958 . . . 3,694 2,060 ,0 00 23 ,900,000 .22 11.6 126 152,000 1,100,000 .37 7.2

1959 . . . 3,708 1,880,000 69,000,000 .61 36.7 122 19,100 253,000 .08 13.2

1960 . . . 3,333 1,320,000 19,100,000 .17 14.5 87 12,100 134,000 .0 4 11.0

1961 . . . 3,367 1,450,000 16,300,000 .12 11.2 112 15,100 146,000 .05 9.6

1962 . . . 3,614 1,230,000 18,600,000 .16 15.0 95 23,600 130,000 .0 4 5.5

1963 . . . 3,362 941,000 16,100,000 .13 17.1 109 22,300 210,000 .06 9 .4

1964 . . . 3,655 1,640 ,0 00 22,900,000 .18 14.0 106 24,700 225,000 .07 9.1

1955 . . . 3,963 1,550,000 23,300,000 .18 15.1 100 9,760 199,000 .06 20 .3

1966 . . . 4,405 1,960,000 25,400,000 .18 12.9 100 11,800 263,000 .07 22.2

1967 . . . 4,595 2,870 ,0 00 42,100,000 .30 14.7 96 21,200 238,000 .07 11.2

Source: U.S* Department of Labor, Bureau of Labor Statistics

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Table 3 7 Employment In Puerto Rico in All Manufacturing, Textiles, and Apparel, 1957-1967

(In thousands)

All manufacturing Textile mill workers Apparel workers Home

Year/Month Total Female Total Female Total Female needleworkers

1957 ..................... 71.4 32.6 4.8 2.6 18.8 16.5 18

1958 ..................... 69.5 30.6 4.5 2.2 17.4 15.4 16

1959 ..................... 77.2 35.2 5.2 2.6 19.6 17.4 15

1960 ..................... 80.7 36.4 5.0 2.5 21.5 18.9 16

1961 ..................... 85.2 38.8 4.8 2.3 22.4 19.6 13

1962 ..................... 93.5 43.7 4.6 2.3 25.1 22.0 12

1963 ..................... 96,6 44.4 4.6 2.3 25.8 22.6 12

1964 ..................... 102.4 47.6 5.0 2.4 27.1 23.6 10

1965 ..................... 110.4 51.5 5.6 2.6 29.2 25.6 9

1966 ..................... 118.0 55.5 6.2 3.0 32.2 28.1 7

1967 ..................... 124.2 59.3 6.5 3.2 34.3 29.9 2

Jan-Oct. 1968 average .. 132.9 64.4 7.6 3.9 37.1 •32.3 1/ 2

_1/ Estimated.

Commonwealth of Puerto Ilico, Department of Labor, Bureau of Labor Statistics, 

Employment Statistics Division, except for home n e e d l e w o r k e r s , for which the

source is Work Experience in Puerto R i c o .

Source:

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Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis
Table 3&--.Employment in Puerto Rico in Selected Textile and Apparel Industries, 1957-67

(In thousands)

October

Broadwoven

fabric

mills

Knitting

mills

M e n ’s , youths *,

and boys* suits

and coats and

furnishings

Women* s ,

m i s s e s 1

and juniors*

outerwear

W o m e n 's ,

misses'

chi l d r e n ' s ,

and infants'

undergarments

Girls'

c h i l dren's,

and in f a n t s '

outerwear

1957 ..... 516 3,361 3,953 2,130 6,571 1,231

1958 ..... 799 2,996 4,026 1,559 6,911 1,303

1959 ..... 720 3,721 4,005 2,571 8,438 1,282

1960 ..... 772 3,263 4,119 2,143 9,884 1,283

1 9 6 1 ..... 562 3,509 4,407 2,573 10,813 1,249

1962 ..... 270 3,461 5,276 2,587 12,002 1,246

1963 ..... 335 2,679 5,153 2,974 13,838 1,052

1964 ..... 353 4,120 5,368 3,051 14,902 982

1965 ..... 334 4,562 6,307 3,100 16,378 927

1966 ..... 343 4,842 6,283 3,752 17,783 1,117

1967 ..... 261 5,439 7,919 4,117 18,538 1,124

Source: Puerto Rico Bureau of Labor Statistics, Census of Manufacturing Industries

in Puerto Rico.

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Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis
Table 39.— Employment, Underemployment and Unemployment in Puerto Rico, 1957-67

(Figures other than rates in thousands)

1957

= f

1958j

= f

19591

!

= f =

I960)j

j

= 1

1961

= T

1962}

i

196s[

i

__________ L

1964

= = (

1965 1966 1967

Oct.

1967

Oct.

1968

Civilian noninstitutional

population ...................... 1,341

1

|

1,363! 1,377

i

1,398:1 ,424 1,484 1,545ll,617

j

1,623 1,650 1,681 1,693 1,723

Labor f o r c e ............ .......... 632 639 633

i

628 j 654 j 684 714 i 728 756 777 789 793 809

Employed .................. . 550 550, 546 556 j 572 i 600 626 !i 645 661 681 693 705 718

Underemployed •••••...... . 93 104 i 95 94 \ 98 1

1 100 98 ! 91 80 83 79 82 70

Unemployed ..................... 82 89 j

j

87 72 | 82

!

i

i

84 88 i 83 95 96 96 89 91

Male labor force ................. 471 475 1 464

1

456 482

s

i

i 505 526 1 529 554 560 565 558 569

Employed ....................... • 410 408 397 401 j 416 i

i 436 452 i 461 377 484 490 486 498 1

Underemployed ............. . 79 88 79

7 7 i

80 I

83 81 ; 75 65 66 60 61 53 £

Unemployed .............. ....... 61 67 67 55 1

i

66 69 74 ! 68 77 76 75 72 71 i

Female labor force ......... ...... 161 164 j 169

i

172 j 172 179

!

188 ; 199 202 217 224 235 239

Employed ....................... 140 142 j; 149 155 5 156 164 174 j 184 184 197 | 203 218 220

Underemployed ................ 14 16 16 17 1 18 17 17 i 16 15 17 1 19 21 17

Unemployed ...................... 21 22 20 1 7 ! 16 15 14 i 15 18 20 j 21 17 20

Rates

Total:

Unemployment ................. 14.9 16.2 15.9

i

i

13.1 | 12.5 12.7 12.3 11.4 12.6 12.4 ! 12.2 11.2 11.2

Underemployment ..................... ........... 14.7 16.3 15.0 15.0 115.0 14.7 11.3 12.5 10.6 10.7 11.5 11.6 9.8

Nonagricultural industries:

Unemployment .................................................................. 11.9 13.5 12.9 9.9 10.5 10.6 10.0 10.3 11.0 11.0 NA NA NA

Underemployment ................................................. ... NA NA 7.6 7.8 7.8 7.5 7.4 6.9 6.5 6.8 i 8.4 8.1 7.0

Manufacturing industries:

Unemployment .................. NA i NA ; NA

!

-L:.

NA

: f c = j

NA NA 15.2 11.5 10.9 9.8 1 NA NA NA

:l-----------------------

Source: Commonwealth of Puerto Rico, Bureau of Labor Statistics, Full Employment and Underemployment in

Puerto Rico and Employment and Unemployment in Puerto Rico.

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Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis
Table 40.— Employment and Number of Plants by Plant Size in Puerto Rico in Manufacturing, Textiles,

and Apparel, 1957, 1966, and October 1967

Industry

1957 1966 1967

All

plants

Plants with

All

plants

Plants with

All

plants

Plants with

1-49

workers .

50-249

workers

1-49

workers

j 50-249

| workers

1-49

workers

50-249

workers

Employment

All manufacturing.. 72,135 17,985 35,403 119,335 22,485 | 62,770 NA NA NA

Textile mills ..... 4,904 464 3,065 6,196 662 i 2,313 6,809 458 3,631

Apparel ............ 13,791 4,601 10,715 33,447 3,878 i 23,297 35,755 4,113 24,976

Numt>er of p].ants j

All manufacturing.. 2,014 1,633 335 2,417 1,811 525 NA NA NA

Textile m i l l s...... 49 17 28 62 31 24 69 29 33

Apparel ............ 366 259 97 412 195 201 431 205 210

Employees per plant i

All m anufacturing.. 36 11 106 49 12 120 NA NA NA

Textile mills ..... 100 27 110 100 21 117 99 16 110

Apparel ............ 51 18 110 81 20

1_____________1

116

i, ____ —

83 20

i

L______ _____

119

NA - Not available.

Source: Puerto Rico Bureau of Labor Statistics, Census of Manufacturing Industries of Puerto Rico

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Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis
Table 41.— Employment and Number of Plants by Plant Size in Puerto Rico in Manufacturing,

Textiles, and Apparel, 1957 and 1966

(Percent)

Industry

1957 1966 1967

All

plants

Plants with

All

plants

s Plants with

All

plants

Plants with

1-49

workers

‘ 50-249

workers

| 1-49

workers

50-249

workers

1-49

workers

50-249

workers

Employment

All manufacturing . 100.0 24.9 49.1 100.0 18.8 52.6 100.0 NA NA

Textile mills ..... 100.0 9.5 62.7 100.0 10.7 45.4 100.0 6.7 53.3

Apparel ............ 100.0 24.5 57.0 100.0 11.6 69.7 100.0 11.5 69.9

Numlber of plaiits

All manufacturing . 100.0 81,1 16.6 100.0 41.8 29.0 100.0 NA NA 1

Textile mills ..... 100.0 34; 7 57.1 100.0 50.0 38.7 100.0 42.0 47.8

Apparel ............ 100.0

<

70.8 26.5 100.0 47.3 48.8 100.0 47.6 48.7

N A - Not available.

Source: Puerto Rico Bureau of Labor Statistics, Census of Manufacturing Industries of Puerto Rico

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Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis
Table 42.— Average Hourly and Weekly Earnings, a nd Average Weekly Hours, Manufacturing, Textiles

and Apparel, Puerto Rico, 1957-67

Average 1iourly earnings Average vjeekly earnings Average weekly hours

Year/Month All m a n u ­

facturing Textiles Apparel

All m a n u ­

facturing Textiles Apparel

All m a n u ­

facturing Textiles Apparel

1957 ............. $ .76 $ .77 $ .66 $27.14 $28.33 $21.98 35.9 36.6 33.2

1958 ............. .83 .85 .74 29.41 30.45 24.53 35.6 35.7 33.2

1959 ............. .87 .90 .78 31.78 33.29 27.06 36.7 37.2 34.6

1960 ............. .92 .93 .83 33.56 33.70 28.25 36.4 36.2 34.2

1961 ............. .99 .98 .90 36.56 35.84 31.77 37.0 36.5 35.3

1962 ............. 1.06 1.05 .98 39.33 38.28 34.52 37.1 36.6 35.4

1963 ............. 1.13 1.08 1.04 40.99 38.77 36.12 36.4 36.0 34.7

1964 ............. 1.18 1.12 1.09 44.09 42.22 38.70 37.3 37.8 35.6

1965 ............. 1.24 1.19 1.14 45.57 44. 74 40.28 36.9 37.6 35.3

1966 ............. 1.30 1.22 1.17 48.34 47.34 41.73 37.3 38.9 35.7

1967 .............

Jan.-Oct. 1968

1.39 1.33 1.27 52.14 51.63 44.87 37.4 38.7 35.3

average.......... 1.54 1.45 1.44 57.02 56.63 51.04 37.1 39.0 35.4

Source: Commonwealth of Puerto Rico Department of Labor, Bureau of Labor Statistics, Employment

Statistics Division.

Digitized for FRASER 

http://fraser.stlouisfed.org/ 

Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis
☆ U. S. GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE : 1969 O - 360-030

Table 43.— Average Hourly Earnings, Textiles and Apparel, Mainland and Puerto Rico

1957-1968

Year/Month Mainland Puerto Rico

Mainland-PuerTto

Rico difference

Textiles Apparel Textiles Apparel Textiles Apparel

1957 ...... ................ $1.49 $1.51 $ .77 $ .66 $ .72 $ .85

1958 ...................... 1.49 ,1.54 .85 .74 .64 .80

1959 ...................... 1.56 1.56 .90 .78 .66 .78

1960 ...................... 1.61 1.59 .93 .83 .68 .76

1961 ...................... 1.63 1.64 .98 .90 .65 .74

1962 ...................... 1.68 1.69 1.05 .98 .63 .71

1963 ...................... 1.71 1.73 1.08 1.04 .63 .69

1964 ...................... 1.79 1.79 1.12 1.09 .67 .70

1965 ...................... 1.87 1.83 1.19 1.14 .68 .69 i

1966 ...................... 1.96 1.89 1.22 1.17 .74 .72 v

1967 ...................... 2.06 2.03 1.33 1.27 .73 .76 ,

Jan.-Oct. 1968 average .. 2.19 2.20 1.45 1.44 .74 .76

Source: Mainland data: U.S. Department of Labor, Bureau of Labor Statistics,

Employment and E a r nings.

Puerto Rico Data: Commonwealth of Puerto Rico Department of Labor, Bureau of

Labor Statistics, Employment Statistics Division.

Digitized for FRASER 

http://fraser.stlouisfed.org/ 

Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis
Digitized for FRASER 

http://fraser.stlouisfed.org/ 

Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis
U.S. DEPARTM ENT OF LABOR

B U R E A U O F L A B O R S T A T IS T IC S

WASHINGTON, D.C. 20212

O FFIC IAL BUSINESS

POSTAGE AND FEES PAID

U.S. DEPARTMENT OF LABOR

r n

I T H I R D C L A S S M A I L I I___________________________________ l

Digitized for FRASER 

http://fraser.stlouisfed.org/ 

Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis