WHOLE-HOUSE

ENERGY CHECKLIST

50 Steps to Energy Efficiency in the Home

Technology Fact Sheet

Buildings for the

21st Century

Buildings that are more

energy efficient, comfortable,

and affordable... that’s the

goal of DOE’s Building

Technologies Program.

To accelerate the development

and wide application of energy

efficiency measures, the

Building Technologies Program:

• Conducts R&D on technologies

and concepts for energy

efficiency, working closely with

the building industry and with

manufacturers of materials,

equipment, and appliances

• Promotes energy/money

saving opportunities to both

builders and buyers of homes

and commercial buildings

• Works with state and local

regulatory groups to improve

building codes, appliance

standards, and guidelines for

efficient energy use

BUILDING TECHNOLOGIES PROGRAM

OFFICE OF ENERGY EFFICIENCY AND RENEWABLE ENERGY • U.S. DEPARTMENT OF ENERGY

Successful design and construction

professionals follow a whole-house systems

approach to improve the energy efficiency of the

homes they build and realize the full benefits of

various energy-saving measures. A systems

approach considers the interaction between the

site, building envelope, mechanical systems,

occupants, and other factors and recognizes that

features of one component in the house can

greatly affect other components.

ENERGY CHECKLIST

The design and construction checklist provided

in this fact sheet was developed to help housing

designers and builders take the first steps toward

a whole-house design approach and the correct

implementation of energy-efficient construction

practices. The checklist presents simple and clear

guidance on energy improvements that can be

readily addressed now by most housing

providers. The checklist purposely focuses on

wood-frame construction and limits itself to

mainstream technologies. Details will vary

according to climate, site, house design,

materials selection, and other factors.

The letters in parentheses next to each checklist

item indicate individual DOE fact sheets relating

to each topic. See the key on page 6 to identify

each topic-specific fact sheet.

ENERGY FOCUS BENEFITS HOMEOWNERS

AND HOME BUILDERS

Although energy efficiency requires careful

planning and attention to details throughout the

design and construction process, the benefits

for building professionals and homeowners are

significant. For the homeowner or occupant,

benefits include

• Reduced utility and maintenance costs

• Increased comfort

• Reduced noise

• A healthier and safer indoor environment

• Improved building durability

The home designer, builder, and contractors

benefit from greater customer satisfaction and

fewer call-backs, resulting from improved

comfort, increased home durability, and reduced

operating costs, maintenance costs, and noise.

They also benefit from increased compliance

with building, fire, and energy codes and

recognition as professionals dedicated to quality.

SYSTEMS APPROACH TAPS FULL

POTENTIAL FROM ENERGY EFFICIENCY

Many state and local governments have

mandatory energy codes that set minimum

standards, and most builders recognize that

today’s homes have tighter envelopes, increased

insulation levels, and higher-efficiency

mechanical systems and appliances. Yet many

building professionals do not tap the full energysaving potential that these improvements have

to offer because they are approached piecemeal

and without consistency and, in many cases, are

not implemented correctly.
OVERALL HOUSE DESIGN

1. Plan ahead to optimize the home’s envelope and mechanical systems.

Consider from the start of the design the framing and insulation,

windows, air leakage control, heating and cooling equipment,

ductwork, ventilation systems, water heating equipment and fixtures,

lighting, and appliances. (EEP)

2. Design with the sun in mind to utilize passive heating, reduce cooling

loads, and use daylight to provide natural lighting. (PSD)

A. Orient the house with the long axis running east/west.

B. Place and size windows according to the climate zone. (ELS)

C. Integrate landscaping with overhangs to provide needed window

shading.

D. Add thermal mass in the walls or floors for heat storage.

E. Consider use of natural ventilation for cooling.

3. Use advanced framing techniques to reduce the amount of lumber used

and increase insulation coverage. (AWF, WI)

A. Design homes on 2-foot modules.

B. Space wall studs, floor joists, and roof rafters 24 inches on-center.

C. Use single top plates in conjunction with in-line framing designs.

D. Align windows and doors with existing studs.

4. Plan locations for ductwork, framing, plumbing, and electrical wiring

simultaneously to avoid conflicts between systems. (AWF, CI, DD)

GENERAL AIR SEALING

Use caulk, spray foam, sheet goods (e.g., rigid board insulation,

plywood, drywall, polyethylene sheeting, housewrap) and other

materials as detailed in the following guidelines.

5. Seal before drywall is installed. (AS)

A. Seal between the bottom plate of exterior walls and the subfloor

during construction using a double bead of caulk or durable gasket

(sill seal). (WI)

B. Seal the inside edge of the bottom plate of exterior walls to the

subfloor using caulk after the frame walls are erected. (WI)

C. Seal the band joist of a multi-story home or a home with a

conditioned basement using caulk, spray foam, or gaskets. Seal

between the band joist and the top plate or sill plate, and between

the band joist and subfloor. (WI)

D. For bathtubs on an exterior wall, insulate the exterior wall and then

airseal behind the tub before the tub is installed, using sheet goods

or plastic sheeting stapled and caulked to the wood framing. (WI)

E. Seal the bathtub drain and water line penetrations through the floor

after the tub is installed and the plumbing is connected, but before

any floor insulation is installed. Use rigid board insulation,

plywood, or other sheet goods with caulk or spray foam. (CI)

F. Seal dropped ceilings and soffits, duct and flue chases, and open

partition walls before any attic insulation is installed, using rigid

board insulation, plywood, or other sheet goods with caulk or

spray foam. Alternatively, construct dropped ceilings and soffits

after the entire ceiling is drywalled and taped to avoid this type of

attic bypass. (CA)

G. Seal all electrical wire; plumbing; and heating, ventilation, and airconditioning penetrations (at the top and bottom plates; through

the ceilings, floors, and exterior walls; and at other framing

locations) between conditioned and unconditioned spaces using

caulk or spray foam. (CA, CI, WI)

H. Seal the wiring and knockouts in all electrical boxes with caulk.

I. Seal outdoor-mounted electrical boxes to the exterior sheathing.

6. Seal during drywall installation. (AS)

A. Seal the drywall to the top and bottom plate using construction

adhesive, caulk, or gaskets.

B. Seal the drywall to the rough openings of windows and doors

using construction adhesive, caulk, or gaskets.

7. Seal after drywall is installed. (AS)

A. Seal electrical boxes (e.g., switches, outlet receptacles), light fixture

boxes, circuit breaker boxes, and medicine cabinets to the drywall

using caulk or foam. (CA, WI)

B. Seal plumbing or electrical wiring penetrations through the drywall

(e.g., the electrical wire behind the kitchen range hood, refrigerator

water supply) using caulk or foam.

C. Seal between a masonry chimney and the attic framing using sheet

metal or other noncombustible sheet goods and high-temperature

(450°F), fire-rated caulk.

D. If a whole-house fan is installed, seal gaps around the whole-house

fan frame using spray foam (preferred) or housewrap tape and

fabricate a whole-house fan cover using rigid board insulation or

fibrous duct board. (WHF)

FOUNDATION

8. Provide drainage and moisture control. (BI, CI, SI)

A. For a basement and slab, install a capillary break beneath the slab

floor using 6- to 10-mil polyethylene placed over at least 4 inches

of gravel.

B. Establish a foundation drainage system adjacent to the entire

perimeter of the footing using 4-inch perforated drainpipe, gravel,

and filter fabric.

C. For a basement or crawlspace, dampproof all below-grade portions

of the foundation wall and footing and place a continuous drainage

plane (e.g., commercial products, gravel) over the dampproofing.

D. Install a protective membrane (e.g., caulked metal flashing) between

the foundation and the sill or bottom plate to serve as a capillary

break. (WI)

E. Establish drainage swales to direct rainwater around the house.

F. Grade slopes 5% or more away from all sides of the house for at

least 5 feet.

G. Provide gutters to conduct rainwater away from the house.

H. For a crawlspace, close the crawlspace vents after making sure the

crawlspace is dry and use manual rather than thermostatically

controlled vents. Also, install 6-mil polyethylene across the

crawlspace, overlapping the seams by 12 inches and sealing the

polyethylene 6 inches up the crawlspace walls.
15. Install housewrap properly. (AS, WRB)

A. Cover and seal the housewrap to the top and bottom plates and sills

using housewrap tape or caulk.

B. Cut the housewrap for window and door openings using the

modified “I” cut (an inverted “Y” pattern), fold back, and staple or

nail to the inside.

C. Overlap and seal housewrap seams using housewrap tape or caulk.

D. Seal all cuts, penetrations, and openings in the housewrap using

housewrap tape or caulk.

E. Use plastic-capped nails or staples to mechanically fasten the

housewrap to the house.

16. Select wall insulation levels that meet or exceed the 2000 International

Energy Conservation Code. (WI)

17. Install wall insulation properly. (WI)

A. Identify all walls (including bandjoists and walls next to garages,

mechanical rooms, etc.) that need to be insulated.

B. Insulate the exterior walls behind a stairwell and cover them with

sheet material before setting the stair stringers.

C. Cut batts to the full length of the cavity to be insulated.

D. Cut batts lengthwise to fit into cavities with nonstandard widths.

E. Slit batts to fit around wiring, wall outlets, and plumbing.

F. For cold and mixed climates, staple the kraft paper facing of the

batts to the front of the studs every 12 inches (in other climates, the

kraft paper may need to face away from the interior, or an unfaced

batt may be used).

ROOF AND ATTIC

18. Design the roof and attic for energy conservation. (CA)

A. Ventilate the attic using continuous soffit and ridge vents.

B. Size overhangs to shade south-facing windows without interfering

with passive heating. Roof overhangs can also be sized to provide

some marginal benefit for windows facing east and west. (PSD)

C. For open-framed attics, use raised-heel or oversized (cantilevered)

trusses or a raised top plate to allow for complete attic insulation

coverage over the exterior walls and soffit ventilation.

D. For cathedral ceilings, use scissor trusses or frame the ceiling to

provide adequate clearance for recommended insulation levels and

soffit ventilation.

19. Select attic insulation levels that meet or exceed the 2000 International

Energy Conservation Code. (CA)

20. Install attic insulation properly. (CA)

A. Elevate any attic decking to allow full-height insulation to be

installed. (AA)

B. Install blocking (metal flashing) to maintain clearance around

heat-producing equipment (e.g., flues, chimneys).

C. When using loose-fill insulation, install rafter baffles (e.g., commercial

products, felt paper) before ceiling drywall is installed to preserve

soffit ventilation and obtain maximum insulation coverage over the

exterior wall; use insulation dams (e.g., commercial products, rigid

board insulation, batt insulation, solid sheet goods) at the soffit,

porch, garage, and attic access to prevent insulation from spilling;

and install attic rulers to ensure complete and full coverage.

9. Select foundation insulation levels that meet or exceed the 2000

International Energy Conservation Code. (BI, CI, SI)

10. Use foundation insulation strategies.

A. For a house with a conditioned basement, insulate the basement

walls by insulating the exterior, insulating the interior (by furring

out the interior), or using insulated concrete forms. For a house

with an unconditioned basement, insulate the underfloor. (BI)

B. For a house with a crawlspace, insulate the walls of the crawlspace

or the underfloor. (CI)

C. For a slab foundation, install rigid board insulation around the

perimeter of the slab during slab construction using a codeapproved method. (SI)

11. Install underfloor insulation properly. (CI)

A. Install batts flush against the subfloor.

B. A vapor barrier is optional. If present, install it facing upward

against the subfloor, except in certain regions of the Gulf states and

similar areas with mild winters and hot summers, where it is

installed facing downward.

C. Cut the batts to the full length of the joist.

D. Slit the batts to fit around wiring and plumbing.

E. Cut batts lengthwise to fit into joist spaces with nonstandard

widths.

F. Insulate between air distribution system ducts and the subfloor as

space permits.

G. Use insulation hangers spaced every 12 to 18 inches to hold the

batts in place without compressing the insulation more than 1 inch.

EXTERIOR WALLS AND SHEATHING

12. Use advanced framing to improve insulation coverage. (AWF, WI)

A. Use insulated corners (two-stud or equivalent) with drywall clips or

vertical 1x4-inch nailers.

B. Provide a surface for attaching drywall at the connection of interior

partition walls to exterior walls by using drywall clips, vertical 1x6

lumber, or horizontal nailers (ladder) rather than additional studs.

C. Eliminate headers in non-load-bearing walls; use single-ply

headers when possible; and use insulated headers when headers

are needed.

D. Limit the use of blocking.

E. Use rigid board insulation in place of structural sheathing in

non-corner areas.

F. Use cross or let-in bracing to allow rigid board insulation to be

used in place of structural sheathing in corners.

13. Incorporate a weather-resistive barrier into the wall system. (WI, WRB)

14. Install sheathing properly. (AS)

A. Seal the sheathing seams with housewrap tape or caulk, or install

housewrap. (WRB)

B. Repair any deficiencies in the exterior sheathing or exterior rigid

board insulation. (WI)

C. Seal exterior penetrations in the sheathing (e.g., porch light

fixtures, outside outlets, phone, cable, electric service holes, faucet

hose bib) using caulk or spray foam.
D. When using batts, cover the top of the ceiling joist or the bottom

cord of the truss with insulation, completely fill the joist cavities,

and fluff the batts to their proper loft.

E. For cathedral ceilings, install vent baffles between the insulation and

roof decking for ventilation.

F. For attic knee wall areas, insulate the knee wall and attic floor after

air sealing the open joist ends below the knee wall (plug the

opening with stuffing material and seal the material to the joist

using caulk or spray foam). Alternatively, insulate and air seal the

rafter space along the sloping ceiling of the knee wall. (AA)

ATTIC OR KNEE WALL ACCESS

21. Locate an attic access (e.g., attic hatch, pull-down stairs) in an

unconditioned part of the house (e.g., carport, garage, gable end of the

roof) rather than inside the house. Provide a locking mechanism for

security. (AA, CA)

22. If the attic or knee wall access is located in a conditioned space,

insulate and seal it carefully. (AA)

A. Construct it with a rigid frame (e.g., use 1x4-inch framing rather

than molding) and use a cover that will not warp.

B. Weatherstrip it and install a tight latch or latch bolts to hold the

access tight against the weatherstripping material. (AS, CA)

C. For an attic hatch, insulate the cover to the same R-value as the

ceiling by glueing three to four pieces of rigid board insulation and/

or stapling an insulation batt (R-15 or greater preferred) to the top

of the cover. (CA)

D. For a knee wall door, insulate the door to the same R-value as the

wall by glueing three to four pieces of rigid board insulation to the

attic side of the door.

E. For an attic pull-down stair, seal the stair to the rough framing

using caulk or non-expanding spray foam, and insulate it by

fabricating an insulated cover from rigid board insulation or fibrous

duct board or using a commercial product. (CA)

WINDOWS

23. Follow window placement and selection guidelines. (PSD, WS)

A. For heating climates, maximize glazing areas on the south walls

and reduce north-facing windows. For cooling climates,

preferentially use north-facing windows and generously shade

south-facing windows.

B. Minimize unshaded glazing areas on the east and west walls,

especially in mixed and hot climates.

C. Select window types that meet or exceed the 2000 International

Energy Conservation Code or, preferably, are Energy Star labeled

and that are consistent with passive solar design considerations.

D. In southern climates, use shade screens and tinting on windows

facing south, east, and west that are not already shaded by the roof,

porch, vegetation, or other means.

24. Install windows properly. (AS, WS)

A. Seal the backsides of the top and side window flanges (but not the

bottom) to the sheathing or weather barrier during installation

using caulk. (WRB)

B. Seal windows into their rough openings before drywall is installed

using backer rod (preferred) and caulk, or use non-expanding spray

foam. (WI)

EXTERIOR DOORS

25. Select door types that meet or exceed the 2000 International Energy

Conservation Code.

26. Install doors properly.

A. Seal between the door threshold and subfloor using caulk. (AS)

B. Seal doors into their rough openings before drywall is installed

using backer rod (preferred) and caulk, or use non-expanding spray

foam. (AS, WI)

C. Adjust the door threshold properly for an airtight fit.

D. Install door weatherstripping.

HEATING AND COOLING EQUIPMENT

27. Select appropriate heating and cooling equipment. (HCES)

A. Select the heating equipment type after comparing operating and

initial costs for all available fuel types.

B. Use higher-efficiency equipment when the cost is justified (typically

in larger homes in more severe climates where fuel costs are high).

C. Size equipment using the Air Conditioning Contractors of America

Manuals J and S.

D. If a programmable thermostat is desired, choose a model with an

Energy Star label.

E. For heat pumps, select a thermostat that is compatible with such

systems, does not automatically change over between heating and

cooling, and is equipped with an emergency heat switch that

activates an indoor indicator light.

28. Install heat pumps and air conditioners properly. (HPAC)

A. Install refrigerant lines that are as short and straight as possible,

properly pitched and trapped, and insulated (suction line only).

B. Install a liquid-line filter/dryer.

C. Evacuate refrigerant lines using the deep vacuum method before

weighing in the proper charge.

D. Conduct indoor air flow tests to ensure the correct air flow across

the indoor coil.

E. Check the refrigerant charge with the superheat, subcooling, or

approach method.

F. Place an outdoor unit on a level pad at least 12 inches from any

obstruction and 3 feet from landscaping to provide proper air

circulation. Avoid any obstruction within 48 inches of the air

discharge that would force air recirculation.

G. Install an outdoor thermostat on heat pumps to control auxiliary

heat use. (HCES)

29. Seal around the metal flue of combustion equipment using an

Underwriters Laboratory (UL) approved metal collar and hightemperature (450°F), fire-rated caulk. (AS)

AIR DISTRIBUTION SYSTEM

30. Design ductwork for efficiency. (DD)

A. Design an air distribution (duct) system using the Air Conditioning

Contractors of America Manual D.

WHOLE-HOUSE ENERGY CHECKLIST
WHOLE-HOUSE ENERGY CHECKLIST

B. Locate ducts inside the conditioned space rather than in the attic or

crawl space. (DIS)

C. Design the distribution system so it is all “hard” ducted. Avoid

using building cavities as part of the duct system. (DIS)

D. Consider supply outlet locations near interior walls to reduce duct

lengths.

E. Specify volume dampers to facilitate balancing.

F. Include a return on each level of a multi-story house.

G. Specify transfer grills or jumper ducts to ensure air circulation in

each room with a door but no return.

31. Select duct insulation levels to meet or exceed the 2000 International

Energy Conservation Code. (DD, DIS)

32. Install ducts properly. (DIS)

A. Install ducts with proper support, without kinks or restrictions, and

with a minimum number of bends and turns.

B. Stretch flexible duct to its full length and cut to fit (do not

compress it).

C. Connect all joints in the ductwork with mechanical fasteners (e.g.,

screws, staples, drawbands).

D. Seal all joints in the ductwork (including connections to the air

handler, duct boots, and elbows) with approved tapes or preferably

mastic.

E. Seal holes, seams, wire penetrations, refrigerant and condensate

line penetrations, access panels, and other openings at the air

handler with mastic, caulk, or tape.

F. Seal the return duct plenum (e.g., sheet metal, floor joist panning,

drywall) and any penetrations in the plenum using mastic

(preferred) or caulk.

G. Seal duct boots to the floor or drywall using caulk, foam, or mastic.

(AS, CI)

H. Install duct insulation to be continuous (no gaps or voids).

I. Permanently secure duct insulation using drawbands, wire, staples,

or approved tapes.

WATER HEATING

33. Select appropriate water heating equipment. (WH)

A. Consider fuel cost in selecting the system type.

B. Use higher-efficiency equipment when the cost is justified (typically

if hot water use and fuel costs are high).

C. Size the water heater using the first hour rating of the equipment by

estimating the daily peak one-hour hot water demand.

34. Install the water heater properly. (WH)

A. Connect the hot and cold water pipes to the correct taps on the

water heater.

B. Insulate the water heater tank with a jacket, following manufacturer

requirements, if it is located outside the conditioned space of the

house.

C. Install heat traps (inverted loops, preferred, or check valves) on

both the hot and cold water pipes at the water heater.

D. Insulate the first 6 feet of the hot and cold water pipes connected to

the water heater.

E. Set the water heater thermostat to 120°F.

F. Seal around the metal flue of combustion equipment using an

Underwriters Laboratory (UL) approved metal collar and hightemperature (450°F), fire-rated caulk. (AS)

35. For a house with a crawlspace (especially in cold and mixed climates),

insulate the water pipes in the crawlspace for freeze protection. (WH)

APPLIANCES

36. Select refrigerators, clothes washers, and dishwashers that are Energy

Star labeled. (EEA)

37. Install fuel-fired stoves and ovens that have pilotless ignition. (CES)

38. Select a gas dryer if possible. (EEA)

COMBUSTION EQUIPMENT SAFETY

39. If a combustion furnace and/or water heater is being installed in a

conditioned space, use sealed-combustion, fan-assisted equipment or

isolate the equipment closet from the conditioned space. (CES)

A. Insulate and seal the walls and ceiling of the equipment closet as if

they were exterior walls and ceilings.

B. Install a solid (non-louvered) door with weatherstripping and a

threshold.

C. Seal all fuel lines, water lines, and electrical penetrations through the

equipment closet.

D. Provide two air inlets for combustion and a vent for flue gases

following code requirements.

40. Install a carbon monoxide detector if any fuel-burning appliance

(e.g., heating system, water heater, stove, fireplace) is installed in the

home. (CES)

41. Measure carbon monoxide levels on all fuel-burning appliances

after installation. (CES)

VENTILATION

42. Design an appropriate whole-house ventilation system. (WHVS)

A. Select a general ventilation design strategy appropriate for the climate.

B. Determine ventilation requirements for the house by consulting

American Society of Heating, Refrigerating, and Air-Conditioning

Engineers, Inc. standards and local codes.

C. Select equipment and controls to meet the determined ventilation

requirement.

D. Incorporate bathroom, kitchen, and other spot ventilation systems into

the design at points of moisture generation.

43. Select and install ventilation equipment properly. (WHVS)

A. Select energy-efficient and quiet fans (2 sones or less), or install the

fan remotely outside the living space.

B. Size fans based on type, length, and layout of the associated duct

system. (SV)

C. Install ventilation ducts that are smooth, as short as possible, as

straight as possible with a minimum of elbows, adequately supported,

properly sized, sealed, and insulated if outside the conditioned

space. (SV)

D. Exhaust ventilation ducts directly to the exterior through the roof or

sidewall, not in attics or crawlspaces. (SV)
WHOLE-HOUSE ENERGY CHECKLIST

Printed with a renewable-source ink on paper containing at

least 50% wastepaper, including 20% postconsumer waste.

March 2003 DOE/GO 10099-766

For more information, contact:

Energy Efficiency and

Renewable Energy

Clearinghouse (EREC)

1-800-DOE-3732

www.eere.doe.gov

Or visit the Building

Technologies Program Web site

at www.buildings.gov

Written and prepared for

the U.S. Department of

Energy by:

Southface Energy Institute

404-872-3549

www.southface.org

U.S. Department of Energy’s

Oak Ridge

National Laboratory

Buildings Technology Center

865-574-5206

www.ornl.gov/btc

The International Energy

Conservation Code can be

obtained from the International

Code Council, 703-931-4533,

www.intlcode.org

ACCA Manuals D, J, and S can

be obtained from the Air

Conditioning Contractors of

America, 1712 New Hampshire

Ave., NW, Washington, DC

20009, 202-483-9370,

www.acca.org

ASHRAE Standards can be

obtained from the American

Society of Heating,

Refrigerating, and

Air-Conditioning Engineers, Inc.

1791 Tullie Circle, NE, Atlanta,

GA 30329, 800-527-4723,

www.ashrae.org

NOTICE: Neither the United States

government nor any agency thereof, nor

any of their employees, makes any

warranty, express or implied, or

assumes any legal liability or

responsibility for the accuracy,

completeness, or usefulness of any

information, apparatus, product, or

process disclosed. The views and

opinions of authors expressed herein do

not necessarily state or reflect those of

the United States government or any

agency thereof.

E. Equip ventilation ducts with backdraft

dampers. (SV)

F. Install transfer grills or undercut doors to

facilitate air flow between rooms.

G. Balance and test all ventilation systems after

installation. Make sure the backdraft damper is

free swinging and seals when the fan is off.

44. Select and install bathroom fans properly. (SV)

A. Size bathroom fans to provide the larger of

50 cfm or 8 air changes per hour, typically at

0.25 inches of static pressure.

B. Use Energy Star-labeled fans to be

energy-efficient.

C. Select fans with a noise rating of no more than

2 sones but preferably less than 1 sone.

D. Slope the ducts to the outside if a sidewall

discharge is used.

E. Seal the fan housings to the drywall using caulk

or foam. (AS, CA)

45. Select and install the kitchen range hood fan

properly. (SV)

A. Select a kitchen range hood fan with a flow

rating of at least 100 cfm or 40 cfm per linear

foot of hood, typically at 0.25 inches of static

pressure.

B. Use an Energy Star-labeled fan to be

energy-efficient.

C. Select a fan with a noise rating of no more than

4 sones but preferably less than 2 sones.

LIGHTING

46. Install dedicated fluorescent light fixtures for all

ceiling- and wall-mounted fixtures that will be on

for 2 hours or more each day, especially kitchens,

hallways, and often bathrooms. (ELS)

47. If recessed lights are installed in a ceiling with an

unconditioned space above it, use only

Underwriters Laboratory (UL) approved fixtures that

are airtight, are Insulation Contact (IC) rated, and

meet ASTM E283 requirements. (AS, CA, ELS)

48. Seal light fixtures to the drywall using caulk.

(AS, CA)

49. Install fluorescent, high-intensity discharge, or

low-pressure sodium fixtures for exterior lighting

unless incandescent lights are automatically

controlled to be on for just a few minutes each

day. (ELS)

50. Use motion detectors, photosensors, and timers on

exterior lighting. (ELS)

FACT SHEET INDEX

For further information on any of the checklist items,

individual DOE fact sheets can be downloaded from

www.eere.energy.gov/buildings/documents.

AA — Attic Access (DOE/GO-102000-0768)

AS — Air Sealing (DOE/GO-102000-0767)

AWF — Advanced Wall Framing

(DOE/GO-102000-0770)

BI — Basement Insulation

(DOE/GO-102002-0776)

CA — Ceilings and Attics (DOE/GO-102000-0771)

CES — Combustion Equipment Safety

(DOE/GO-102000-0784)

CI — Crawlspace Insulation

(DOE/GO-102000-0774)

DD — Air Distribution System Design

(DOE/GO-102002-0782)

DIS — Air Distribution System Installation and

Sealing (DOE/GO-102003-0783)

EEA — Energy-Efficient Appliances

(DOE/GO-102001-0788)

EEP — Energy Efficiency Pays

(DOE/GO-10099-0746)

ELS — Efficient Lighting Strategies

(DOE/GO-102002-0787)

HCES — Heating and Cooling Equipment Selection

(DOE/GO-102002-0779)

HPAC — Central Heat Pump and Air Conditioner

Installation (DOE/GO-102002-0781)

PSD — Passive Solar Design

(DOE/GO-102000-0790)

RS — Right-Size Heating and Cooling Equipment

(DOE/GO-102000-1490)

SI — Slab Insulation (DOE/GO-102000-0775)

SV — Spot Ventilation (DOE/GO-102002-0786)

WH — Water Heating (DOE/GO-102001-0785)

WHF — Whole House Fan (DOE/GO-10099-0746)

WHVS— Whole-House Ventilation Systems

(DOE/GO-102002-0778)

WI — Wall Insulation (DOE/GO-102000-0772)

WRB — Weather-Resistive Barriers

(DOE/GO-102000-0769)

WS — Window Selection (DOE/GO-10099-0777)