Living Landscapes in South D

A GUIDE TO NATIVE PLANTSCAPI

“Helping People Help the Land” Help

ing Peop

le Help the La

n

d

”
“Fargo Xeriscape Gardens” , one of fi ve national Xer

demonstration of Xeriscape principles and landscapePlanting areas display “Moderate Water Use,” “Low WUse” plants.

Why is N

Landscaping I

Native landscaping provides aenvironmentally friendly landwater and maintenance requirbeautiful yard, garden, schooTry a XeriscapeTM with native 

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Why is Native Landscaping Important? ................................................................ 1Planning ................................................................................................................ 3Design ................................................................................................................... 5Site Preparation .................................................................................................... 7Choosing the Right Grasses and Wildfl owers ...................................................... 9

Grasses ............................................................................................................... 11 Wildfl owers .......................................................................................................... 15Choosing the Right Trees and Shrubs ................................................................ 17Trees and Shrubs ................................................................................................ 19Water Conservation ............................................................................................ 23Maintenance ........................................................................................................ 25Plant Protection ................................................................................................... 27Planning and Planting for Wildlife ....................................................................... 29Rain Gardens ...................................................................................................... 31Energy Conservation .......................................................................................... 33

Weeds and Invasive Plants ................................................................................. 35

Culturally Signifi cant Native Plants......................................................................... 37

Firewise Landscaping...............................................................................................39“To Do” List ......................................................................................................... 41About this Publication ........................................................................ Back Cover

1 Living Landscapes in South Dakota: A GUIDE TO NATIVE PLANTSCAPING

The information in this publication will help you 

are naturally adapted and will thrive for years uconditions of South Dakota. This booklet provi

landscaping principles and practices. It integrates the energy, and chemical usage; wildlife habitat enhancemanagement. Native plant, in the context of this bookwith a few exceptions.
Native 

are exlandscmaintand a

only 5activeand relandscsave twarmblue gare dislowedorma

Black chokeberry: berries used for making wine and jelly

Xeriscape and Native Plant Benefits

Butterfl y garden

Big bluestem: fall color 

Quality of Life

 • Attractive year-round landscape • Increased wildlife viewing • Connect with nature • Decreased mowing

Economic

 • Lower water and maintenance costs • Enhanced real estate values • Increased survival of plantings • Edible and/or decorative products

Environmental

• Improved water and soil conservation

 • Reduced use of petroleum products • Improved air quality/carbon sequestration • Enhanced urban wildlife habitat • Reduced storm water runoff

Narrow grass strips (left) can result in poor water management. A water-effi cient, low maintenance alternative 

landscape features hardier plants in “low water use” landscape zones. 

Wh

2

Blue Fescue and Littlan urban setting.

What is XeriscapeTM? 

Xeriscape (pronounced zeer-i-scape) is derived from the Greek word, xeros, meaning “dry.” Denver Water holds the trademark on the term. It is the wise use of water through water-effi cient landscaping and the 

utilization of plants better adapted to local climatic and soil conditions. The word Xeriscape conjures up visions of a dry, desert-like landscape when, in fact, its focus is how to landscape appropriately in areas with seasonal water supply shortages. A Xeriscape design uses less water to sustain plant life and provides year-round beauty.

Comparisons of traditional landscapes and Xeriscapes have shown that up to 50 percent savings can be achieved in water usage alone. Other study sites indicating potential savings of nearly 30 percent in maintenance and labor, 61 percent in fertilizers, 44 percent in fuel, and 22 percent in herbicides and pesticides. 

(At Home with Xerscape, Xeriscape Colorado, Inc.) 

Photo 

hoto 
3

PLANNING

 Steps to Planning

Consider family interests and neList the outdoor activities and interests of including pets.Analyze the site Understand the resources: climate, soil chsoil test), slope and aspect, topsoil depth, such as potential fl ooding or inundation. Idcommunities present on the site.Develop and evaluate alternativeVisualize an initial landscape design that each of the following when formulating the 

Site. Is it wetland, riparian, or upland? Cthe site be left alone due to potential fl o

movement?Plants. Are the plants adapted to the sitenative plant vigor rather than removal annative plants and ensure they are not dasite preparation. Evaluate how the landsplanting will affect future maintenance.Function. Do the plants meet your objec

energy, and reducing maintenance time 

Establish budget and timetableWill all the landscaping be put in place at phases over several years? How much wiSave or remove existing landscaAll desirable vegetation should complemevegetation should be entirely removed, eitSolve problems identifi ed in the Runoff from roof and driveway can be utilexisting rocks that could be used in the laconserve water and protect soil surfaces Implement planOrder seed, nursery stock, and materials construction activities to avoid soil compavegetation. Use mulch or other suitable mconstruction and establishment period.Monitor and maintain landscapeCheck and protect plants from pest damaadequate soil moisture.

123

45678

Living Landscapes in South Dakota: A GUIDE TO NATIVE PLANTSCAPING

CAUTION

Before any digging, trenching, or post-driving, contact South Dakota One-Call. South Dakota Law Chapter 49-7A-5 requires anyone who engages in any type of excavation, with certain exemptions, anywhere 

in South Dakota, to provide notice of at least 48 hours in advance (excluding weekends and holidays) to South Dakota One-Call. This system is established to notify all South Dakota underground facility operators of intended excavation. Contact South Dakota One-Call at 1-800-781-7474, 

or 811 for in-state calls, or visit www.sdonecall.com.

South Dakota One-Call 1-800-781-7474 or 811 (in-state)

SD One- Call Cost soil type? •••

For more information about soil types in 

your area, check out the Web Soil Survey at 

http://websoilsurvey.nrcs.usda.gov
Quality topsoil is the basis for quality landscapes.

4

Topsoil. The growth rate and health of landscape plants are directly related to soil quality. Salvage topsoil prior to any excavation to secure a desirable material for plant growth. A minimum of 6 inches of good quality topsoil is recommended for turf; 12 inches for trees. This encourages deeper rooting and provides an organic rich environment for plant growth. Ideal soil textures are fi ne sandy loam, loam, or silt loam.

Site Inventory and 

Assessment

Planning and design begin with a thorough site inventory and assessment of the following factors:

Current and Historic Land Use

How has the property been used or altered in the past? Are there cultural resources buried or on the surface that should be saved? What level of cleanup will be necessary? These are important considerations before entering the next landscape phase: design, site preparation, plant selection, and planting.

Vegetative Inventory

Native species thrive in harmony with their environment. These relationships should be recreated as closely as possible for successful native landscaping. Look around and see what plants exist on the site or a similar site nearby. Do they grow there as part of a natural plant community or were they introduced? Identify the 

plants and determine if they are annual or perennial.Identify and control weeds prior to planting activities. Chemical, biological, mechanical, or hand-weeding are all viable options.

Soil

Soil is the most important component of landscaping. Many well-designed landscapes have failed because of inadequate soil preparation before planting.Compaction is a signifi cant problem in 

new developments due to the activity of heavy equipment during construction. Compacted layers severely limit root growth and water movement. This problem should be corrected by ripping or deep tillage before the addition of topsoil or planting. 

Organic Soil Amendments. All soil textures may nogarden beds. Two alternatives are available. One, plamay limit species selection, or two, add organic soil awater-holding capacity (sandy soils) or improve aeratOrganic amendments include peat moss, compost, pmanures. Spread this material evenly over the surfacto 4 inches. The general rule is to incorporate no momaterial per 1,000 square feet per year. This equals material.

Ripping the compaction layer improves root growth and water movement.Soil Tests. In landscape settings, soil testing is valuable to establish a baseline on soil pH, salt levels, and the need for nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium fertilizer. The accuracy of a soil test is infl uenced by the laboratory analysis but may be infl uenced even more by the quality of the sample. Refer to SDSU Extension Bulletin titled “Recommended Soil Sampling Methods for South Dakota”. It can be obtained through your local extension offi ces or at “http://agbiopubs.

sdstate.edu/articles/FS935.pdf”.

Sand feels and feelscoarse and oarse andgritty

SAND

Clay feels sticky lay feels sticky 

when wet hen wet

Loam is a combination of 

LOAM

CLAY

Climate of the Northern Great Plains is extremely variable and uhave adapted well to these extremes.• USDA Plant Hardiness Zones. The Plant Hardin

States into zones based on average minimum temdetermine plant species adaptation to cold. (See p

• Elevation/Topography/Aspect/Hydrologic Reg

Position. These elements infl uence the length of frost-free days, wind, sunlight, snow cover, soil deposition and microclimates around structures can Riparian areas, wetlands, and subirrigated sites ofdiversity.

• Precipitation. Timing of seasonal precipitation dic

important element when establishing and maintain

• Wind. High wind speed exposes plants to moistur

can falsely lure trees and shrubs into breaking budkill. Winter-hardy plants must be selected to avoid 

Climate
j

DESIGN

Information gathered in the site inventory is used to diagram existing conditions and identify functions of various spaces. To better visualize how things appear, drawings and/or design plans are developed to assure that each space gets specifi c attention and to determine relationships between spaces. The number of steps, or preliminary drawings, 

necessary to complete a landscape design is dependent on the size and scale of the project and the amount of detail incorporated at each stage of the process.

Landscape Design Sequence

Bubble Diagram

It is important to identify areas with different maintenance requirements.Use simple shapes to represent features or conditions such as a dog kennel, RV parking, turf area, garden, sun exposure, or views. 

The colocatioIt contato implConstrfor builthe desPlant mby spec

Importagroups 

mass pare exapatios, may be 

Concept Plan

Individual shapes begin to take on a greater level of detail, and relationships between spaces evolve. Large areas such as prairies, parking lots, lawns, and water features should be considered fi rst. Smaller areas and shapes, such as planting beds, decks, and walkways should be integrated in and around the larger areas. The diagram at the top of this page is an example of a concept plan.

5

Incorporate wildflower and native grass planting for

interest and to reduce the amount of lawn mowing.

Create pockets of interesting landscaping usingplants with varying shades of seasonal color andcontrast.

Extend planting bed edge around trees where possible sotrees will have to compete less with lawn.

Extend planting beds around air conditioners andother utilities to remove them from mowable areas.

Place foundation plantings with mulch to help improve consistentmoisture conditions surrounding the house foundation.Collect runoff from downspouts into rain gardens. Utilizeplants that tolerate occasional standing water. Locate awayfrom house so water cannot seep into basement.

Place utility obstructions out of lawn and intocommon mulch beds.

Screen objectionable views with carefully selectedand placed trees and shrubs.Maintain usable lawn areas convenient for use.Reduce the amount of lawn to mow by sizing for theamount that will be used.Locate utility buildings close to gardens and otherareas needing equipment. Incorporate out-buildingsby blending into the landscape.

Locate vegetable gardens with sunlight, access,aesthetic views and moisture in mind.

PLAN VIEWConsiderations for a typical residential landscape plan

Place groupings of trees and shrubs

together in naturalistic patterns for visual

screens and windbreaks.

Place tree and shrub groupings in common

mulch beds to reduce the amount of mowing.

Place plants in areas that would normally be

unusable “dead space.” Select plants for

amount of sunlight and moisture.

Locate trees away from overhead power

lines. Know the ultimate size of the tree.

patio

parking parking area

scenic

view

residence residence

Flogreplachwhcoare de

Living Landscapes in South Dakota: A GUIDE TO NATIVE PLANTSCAPING

1

2

3

4
Rules of Th umb

To the casual observer, the prairie grass and wildfl ower landscape may be perceived 

as an unkempt lawn. Steps can be taken to promote the introduction of a prairie landscape into the traditional neighborhood.

• Provide one or two strips of mowed lawn between the desired prairie landscape 

and sidewalks and your neighbor’s lawn. This will lessen the abruptness of the taller grasses that observers may not be accustomed to seeing.

• Talk to your neighbors before installing the prairie landscape. Discuss the beauty, 

uniqueness, reduced maintenance and water needs, and other benefi ts of the 

prairie landscape.

• Provide naturalistic curves to the outside edge of the prairie landscape through the 

use of mowed strips or visible edging. 

• Keep the selection of grasses and wildfl owers simple. A short-statured mix of 

cool- and warm-season prairie grasses and a few selective species of wildfl owers 

will keep the design simple and pleasing to the eye.

• Control weeds. The residential prairie landscape is not maintenance-free, but 

maintenance may be easier with fewer plant species.

• Consider other design elements such as a naturalistic stone outcropping, 

ornamental woody plants, a dry creek bed, or sculptures.

• Along borders, place short-statured plants in front and taller plants in the back. • The width of a perennial border should be proportionally about one-third the height 

of the background.

• In island planting beds, place taller plants near the middle and decrease height  toward the edge. The most pleasing effect is achieved if the bed is twice as wide  as the tallest plant.• Place plants according to their needs for sun, water, and soil condition.• Arrange plants so they are visible and colorful throughout the year.

• Space plants based on mature size.• Consider surroundings in design. Use plant screens or barriers as necessary for 

privacy.

• Recognize maintenance issues.• Try different plant material as long as it is recommended for the site.• Don’t be afraid to experiment.

6

Do

Group 3, 5, or 7 plants together • unifyingMatch plant size to available space • proper scaleAccent with fall color and leaf color• cheeryVary size, spacing, and diversity• interesting

Don’t

Scatter single plants here and there • spotty and confusingIncorporate many big trees on a small lot• overpoweringPlant large plants too close to house • structural damagePlant if unable to maintain • time-consuming

Eye Grabbers

USDA Plant Hardin

Average Annual Minimum 

SouHarfrom 

The complete USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Mwith zones 2 through 10 subdivided into “a” degrees warmer (or colder) in an average wiThe map is based on average annual minimuthroughout North America. By using the ma

live, it will enable you to determine what plangarden because they can withstand these avAlthough these zones are useful as an indicsurvival in a given area, many factors, includdrainage, humidity, and exposure to sun and growth and success or failure in its environm

Degrees Fahrenheit

Bennett

Br

Buffa

Butte

Campbell

Corson

Custer

Dewey

Edmu

Fall River

Fa

Greg

Haakon

Harding

Hughes

Hyde

Jones

Lawrence

Lyman

Mc

Meade

Mellette

Pennington

Perkins

Potter

Shannon

Stanley

Sully

Todd

Tripp

Walworth

Jackson

Ziebach

° -25 to -30 F

° -20 to -25 F° -15 to -20 F° -30 to -35 F

4b

4a

3b

5a
SITE PREPAR ATION

7

Stockpiled soil or construction materials can kill sod – a very real loss if the sod grew native plants.

Tree roots cut during excavation cause a tree to decline and die.

1 Retaining Desirable Trees and Vegetation

Site preparation methods, sequence, and timing are important considerations to achieving landscaping goals. Site preparation includes (1) retaining desirable trees and vegetation, (2) maintaining or improving soil quality, (3) removing unwanted vegetation, (4) preparing seedbed, (5) transplanting, and (6) seeding grass and forbs.

Careful planning can prevent inadvertent loss of desirable vegetation. Stockpiled soil can suffocate vegetation within a few days. Stockpiled building materials may trap solar heat and destroy vegetation in a few hours. Herbicide drift, leaching, or translocation in soil can destroy existing trees and vegetation. Residual herbicides in the soil could negatively impact, or kill trees and vegetation for days or years after application. Additional practices that are detrimental to tree health and development include:• Trenching through tree roots • Removing soil from over the root system of the tree• Adding soil over the root system (As little as 1 inch of clay spread on top of the  roots of a mature tree can cause it to decline.)• Physical injury to tree trunks or limbs• Traffi c on root systems causing compaction • Tilling deeper than 1 to 2 inches over the root areaGrasses and forbs can also be damaged through:• Disturbance of topsoil• Compaction

Living Landscapes in South Dakota: A GUIDE TO NATIVE PLANTSCAPING
Maintaining or Improving Soil Quality

8

2

4 Preparing Seedbed

A grass grass s

Before seeding disturbed sites, allow settling to occur. Watering may help settle the site, but too much or too fast will increase compaction or cause erosion. Grass seeding requires a fi rm seedbed. Firming can be accomplished by an implement 

such as a harrow, roller-packer, ATV or vehicle tires, or foot traffi c. When walking across 

a fi rm seedbed, an adult footprint should not sink over 1⁄4 to 3/8 inch.

Maintaining soil quality is important for sustaining healthy plants, reducing erosion, and improving nutrient and water use effi ciencies. If topsoil is removed during construction, 

it should not be mixed with subsoil, and should be carefully stockpiled for resurfacing landscape planting areas. A minimum of 6 inches of topsoil is preferable for growing most plants. There may be a need for additional organic matter for some soils. Utilize soil sampling/soil test kits and the professional services of your local plant nursery, garden center, or SDSU Extension Service to assist with soil quality needs. Construction and landscaping activity and other factors may result in soil compaction, and therefore, inhibit root growth and water absorption. To test for soil compaction, dig into the soil. A shovel should penetrate easily in undisturbed soil that has good structure and porosity. The soil should crumble and fl ake apart easily. Soil compaction may be 

alleviated by:• Incorporating organic matter into the top 6 inches of the soil (well-rotted manure,  straw, compost, grass clippings, leaves, peat moss, processed bark, etc.)• Reducing traffi c impact on the soil by limiting the number of trips and using 

 lighter equipment• Waiting for wet soils to dry before tillage

3 Removing Unwanted V

Herbaceous vegetation can be effectively controlled with herbicides or repeated tillage. Note that repeated tillage may trigger water and wind erosion on many sites. Bare sites should be replanted or covered with mulch as soon as possible to control erosion and reduce weed infestations. When using herbicide control, select herbicides that:• Are labeled for use in South Dakota.• Effectively destroy the target  vegetation, including the tougher  invasive plants• Have no carryover soil residual activityConsult the SDSU Extension Service for site-specifi c herbicide application information.

5 Transplantin

A wide variety of native shrubs, trees, and forbs are asources. For a variety of reasons, avoid harvesting pTransplanted roots should be kept moist at all times bsite should be moist but not wet. Place plants at the dlateral roots should be in the top 1 to 2 inches. Water 

root zone moist to touch.

Roller packing before seeding grass is a key to success.

6 Seeding Grasses an

Plant grass seed 1⁄4 to 1⁄2 inch deep. Seeding can be using a grass drill. Grass drills effectively control seedistribution. However, they may leave visible drill rowBroadcast seeding is an effective seeding method, and will not leave visible drill rows. When broadcasting seed, spread half of the seed in one direction and the rest in another, to avoid gaps. When seeding is completed, rake, drag, or harrow to cover the seed with soil. To promote even germination, cover the seeded site with sterile mulch (clean straw, mulch, grass clippings, etc.). The soil surface should be kept moist (not wet) until seeds germinate. Water as needed to keep root zone moist.

Spray
CHOOSING THE RIGHT GRASSES AND WILDF

Plant Attributes and 

When selecting plant species, consider contboldness to provide variety throughout the yegrowth as the plant matures.Know the life-span of your plants.

Perennial - lives three or more years, res

season from overwintering buds above or 

Biennial - requires two growing seasons t

germinating and remaining vegetative the 

fruiting, and dying in the second year.

Annual - completes its life cycle within on

must reproduce from seed each year.

Nature’s Defens

In nature’s low-water environments, look for natural defense mechanisms for conserving • Hairy, sticky, or wavy leaf surfaces defl ec

droplets.

• Short, narrow, incised leaves have smalle

less water to evaporation.

• White or silvery-colored leaves refl ect the 

temperatures.

• Spines, prickles, and aromatic foliage defe

tissue and moisture from hungry, thirsty p

• Small, less showy fl owers with little or no 

attention from predaceous insects and gra

9

Tag Tips:

Scientifi c Latin name 

of one or two words, 

for example, 

Linum 

lewisii. 

“Zone” numbers, 

i.e., 3 means better 

adaptation to colder 

temperatures than 4. 

Sun, partial sun, or 

shade tell you the 

sunlight requirements 

and correct 

placement in the 

landscape.

Water requirements 

in inches per year 

should fi t natural, 

local precipitation 

amounts.

Plant Adaptation

Plants naturally adapted to survive in local environmental conditions should be selected.• Choose reputable nurseries and garden centers. Many choose and grow native and 

introduced plant material that is adapted to the area. Consider their replacement policy. Guarantees usually vary from 6 months to 1 year from purchase.

• Select plants adapted to the correct USDA Plant Hardiness Zone. The “zone” will 

be listed on the tag or label. The lower the number, the more adapted it is to colder temperatures. In South Dakota, depending on your location, the zones range from 3b to 5a. Species, as well as varieties within the species, need to be adapted. Varieties or cultivars originating from milder southern climates often have different day length and length of growing season requirements, and lack of winter hardiness.

• Research a plant’s adaptation using the two-word scientifi c Latin name for the 

species. It is more universal than a common name. Common names vary in time, place, and culture.

• Though plants from the wild are adapted, digging for home landscaping use is 

not recommended. Extensive root systems often make digging and transplanting unsuccessful. It is also illegal in many areas. When gathering seed, consider viability and propagation requirements. Seed quality is often poor in the wild. Many species require special conditions and treatments for germination. Knowing these needs is essential for successful establishment from seed.

Living Landscapes in South Dakota: A GUIDE TO NATIVE PLANTSCAPING

Purple

conefl ower,

a native

wildfl ower,

is grown

and sold

at many

nurseries. 
Grasses can be used in a landscape as an accent plant or a ground cover. Grasses 

can be compact and tufted, erect in bunches, creeping on the ground’s surface, or spreading as sod. Height varies from ground-hugging to several feet tall. Depending on their time of growth, they are considered either warm- or cool-season species.• Cool-season species green up early and actively grow during the cool, moist 

periods of the year such as from spring until mid-summer.

• Warm-season species begin growth in early summer and remain active until midautumn. In the fall, they often have attractive, colorful foliage.

• Fragrance

• Herbal and medicinal qualities• Color schemes• Bloom schedule• Shape and texture• Natural habitats recreated• Winter landscape appeal

Wild

fl owers

Wildfl owers vary greatly in size, shape, color, bloom 

Knowledge of these characteristics will help to choosprovide interesting color throughout the entire growinrequire direct sunlight for 6 to 8 hours per day. As subloom size decrease.Black-eyed susan Purple 

Blue fl ax BlankeYarrow Shell-leaf penstemon 

Native Plant Attractions

Choosing 

10

Plant Types

Grasses

Monarch on blazing star bloomSweetgrass for cultural gardeningPrairie dropseed is a bunchgrassBuffalograss spreads by stolons Little bluestem used as an accent plant
GRASSES

Grasses can bring texture and softness into a landscape design. A wide diversity of native grasses provides endless opportunities for adding color, an assortment of sizes and shapes, and offers relatively low 

maintenance. Favorable characteristics of most native grasses include low water and fertility requirements. They reach their ultimate size quickly, have a high resistance to insects and diseases, and generally can fend for themselves.Native grasses in landscaping can include a broad range of uses, i.e., ground cover, monoculture manicured lawns, individual accent or specimen plants, and prairie or meadow restoration.

Ground Cover

Grasses that spread by rhizomes, stolons (above-ground runners), or tillers are prime candidates for ground cover and site stabilization. Steep slope stabilization, however, may require structural stabilization prior to plant establishment. Initial weed control is critical until the cover plants are established well enough to shade out or crowd out any unwanted plants. Winter color of little bluestem in 

new snow.

Buffalograss stolons cascade down a rock face.

Blue grama has “eyebrow” seed heads.

Sheep fescue is a long-lived bunchgrass.

11

Lawns

The use of native grasses for a manicured lawn involves the same site preparation and establishment techniques as with a Kentucky bluegrass lawn. The seeding rates are increased [500 Pure Live Seeds (PLS) per square foot] to ensure a dense, solid stand. Depending on the amount of water applied to a site (natural or supplemental), the plant density will eventually adjust to that which the site can maintain. Mulching and early supplemental water will help ensure a good initial stand. Rhizomatous species will continue to fi ll in the open spaces, but bunchgrass stands may develop gaps if the initial establishment is sparse. Although the emphasis of this publication is on native species, there are some introduced grasses that, because of their drought tolerance and low maintenance, can be used for manicured lawns.

Prairie/Meadow

In some suburban areas and particularly in rural settings, a person may want to restore large areas to native prairie or meadows, blending a residence into a natural setting. To restore a natural plant community, there are several establishment options: 1) seed general mixtures of grasses and wildfl owers, using most of the species you want in your end product; 2) seed simple mixtures and interplant to increase diversity; or 3) transplant all plants to spacing and composition desired. Once established, native prairies or meadows require minimal maintenance, spot weed control, and early spring residue management.

Living Landscapes in South Dakota: A GUIDE TO NATIVE PLANTSCAPING

Buffa

Prior to wa weed frMultiple aherbicide be consid

perennialbrome anseedbed and blue gdepth not through mcultivars fBad River Bowie, Cobuffalograblue grama combinauniformityseeding mbuffalograOnce fully highly comduring the use propefall glyphograss is fuof cool sesummer abe accompre-emersuch as pPendulumpost-eme

imazapic or metsulfPatriot, Esestablisheapply 1 lband again 

Photo: Colette Kessler hoto: Colette Kessler
12

Grasses for Ground Cover and Lawns

 Lawns1 Prairie Planting2 Life Soil Preference lbs. PLS lbs. PLS Drought3 Trampling3 Mowing Species Varieties Form Sandy Loamy Clayey per 1000 sq ft per acre Tolerance Resistance Toleran

COOL-SEASON (Native)western wheatgrass Rodan rhizomatous X X 4 10 Moderate Good Good 

(Pascopyrum smithii) Rosana thickspike wheatgrass Critana rhizomatous X X X 3.5 8.5 Good Fair Fair (Elymus lanceolatus) Bannock  Schwendimar streambank wheatgrass Sodar rhizomatous X X X 3.5 8.5 Good Fair Fair 

(Elymus lanceolatus) 

green needlegrass Lodorm bunchgrass X X 3 7.5 Moderate Fair Fair (Nassella viridula) AC Mallard COOL-SEASON (Introduced)crested wheatgrass Hycrest bunchgrass X X X 3 7 Excellent Good Good (Agropyron cristatum)sheep fescue Covar bunchgrass X X 1 2 Good Fair Good (Festuca ovina) Bighorn 

hard fescue Durar bunchgrass X X 1 2 Good Fair Good (Festuca trachyphylla) 

perennial ryegrass Adapted bunchgrass X X 3 7 Moderate Good Good (Lolium perenne) varieties 

Canada bluegrass Reubens rhizomatous X X X 1 1 Moderate Good Good (Poa compressa) Talon 

 FoothillsRussian wildrye Mankota bunchgrass X X X 3 7.5 Excellent Good Fair 

(Psathyrostachys juncea) Bozoisky -Select

WARM-SEASON (Native)blue grama Bad River bunchgrass X X X 2 2.5 Excellent Excellent Good 

(Bouteloua gracilis) 

buffalograss Bowie stoloniferous X X 3 26 Good Excellent Good 

(Buchloe dactyloides) Cody 

sideoats grama Pierre bunchgrass X X X 3 7.5 Moderate Fair Poor (Bouteloua curtipendula) Killdeer 1 Seeding rates for lawn are fi gured at approximately 500 PLS per square foot; 2 Seeding rates for a prairie grass stand are fi gured at approximately 40 PLS per square foot; 3 Rating scale: Excellent - Good - Moderate - Fair - Poor
GRASSES

What Should A Seed Tag Tell You?

Seed tags vary in layout and design from state to state, but all have generally the same information. 

13

Buying Seed

Much of the grass utilized in native landscaping will be established from seed. The buhe/she is buying, both in terms of quality and what undesirable material may be in the South Dakota is required to meet certain standards; i.e., the seed lot can’t have more and must be totally free of certain noxious weeds. By buying certifi ed seed you are g

species and variety/cultivar as labeled, meets minimum purity and germination stand

amount of weeds and other crops allowed. Purchase seed on PLS basis.

Labeled By: Plant Materials Center, Bismarck, North 

Dakota

Kind: Big Bluestem 

Certification No.: A1330

Variety: Bison Lot No.: 1

Purity: 97.35 % Germination: 80.00 

 Inert Matter: 

02.64 % Dormancy (Hard Seed): 9.00 

 Other Crop Seed: 00.00 % Total Germination: 

89.

 Total Weed Seed: 00.01 %

 Res. Weed Seed: 0 

per # Date Tested: 02/09/07

 ORIGIN: North Dakota Net 

Wt. 50 

Common name of plant species

Cultivar or variety name

Percentage of bulk material that is actually seed of tagged species

Number assiproduction fi ecertifi cation a

Percentage by weight of stems, dirt, insect parts, etc.

Percentage of other grass or agronomic crops

Percentage of weed seed

Restricted weeds expressed as number/pound (varies by state). If prohibited seeds are present, the seed can’t be sold.

State or foreign country where grown. If the origin is unknown, 

that fact must be stated.

Date of tmost curgerminat

Living Landscapes in South Dakota: A GUIDE TO NATIVE PLANTSCAPING

 PLS lbs/acre*Tallgrass Prairie (warm-season)big bluestem 25% ................. 1.9 (Andropogon gerardii)Indiangrass 25% .................. 1.8(Sorghastrum nutans)switchgrass 25% ...................1.1 (Panicum virgatum)sideoats grama 25%............. 1.9 (Bouteloua curtipendula)Mixed Prairiewestern wheatgrass 10% ..... 1.0 (Pascopyrum smithii)green needlegrass 20% ....... 1.5(Nassella viridula)little bluestem 40% ............... 1.8(Schizachyrium scoparium)sideoats grama 30% ............ 2.3(Bouteloua curtipendula)Shortgrass Prairie (warm-season)blue grama 40% .................. 1.0(Bouteloua gracilis)sideoats grama 40% ............ 3.0 (Bouteloua curtipendula)buffalograss 20% .................5.2

(Buchloe dactyloides)Wet Meadowswitchgrass 40% .................. 1.8 (Panicum virgatum)Canada wildrye 30% ............2.3 (Elymus canadensis)western wheatgrass 20% ..... 2.0(Pascopyrum smithii)prairie cordgrass 10% .......... 0.7(Spartina pectinata)* drilled rate, double if broadcast

Suggested Native Grassland 

Seeding Mixtures for Prairie 

Plants 
Grasses for Landscape Accents

 Soil Preference Mature

Species Variety (origin) Sandy Loamy Clayey Height Invasive1 RemarksWARM-SEASON (Native)big bluestem Bison (ND) X X X 5-7 ́ tall, vigorous plant; seed head (Andropogon gerardii) Bonilla (SD) resembles turkey foot; reddish  Sunnyview (SD) fall/winter color; bunchgrass sand bluestem Garden (NE) X X 4-6 ́ same as above but more drought(Andropogon hallii) Goldstrike (NE) tolerant; bluish color; bunchgrass

switchgrass Dacotah (ND) X X 3-5 ́ R seed head is an open panicle; turns(Panicum virgatum) Forestburg (SD) golden yellow in fall/winter; spreads by Summer (NE) rhizomes; Dacotah is shorter; Summer is more uprightIndiangrass Tomahawk (ND, SD) X X X 4-6 ́ bronze-colored seed head; bunchgrass(Sorghastrum nutans)prairie sandreed Bowman (ND) X X 4-7 ́ R tall, attractive seed head; golden yellow (Calamovilfa longifolia) Goshen (WY) in fall/winter; spreads by rhizomes;  prefers dry sites to avoid leaf spottinglittle bluestem Badlands (ND, SD) X X X 2-4 ́ S good drought tolerance; fuzzy, white (Schizachyrium scoparium) Itasca (ND, SD, MN) seed heads at maturity; reddish

 Camper (NE) fall/winter color; bunchgrass Blaze (NE)sideoats grama Killdeer (ND) X X X 1-2 ́ interesting seed head, oat-like spikelets(Bouteloua curtipendula) Pierre (SD) hang from one side; brilliant orange

 Butte (NE) anthers; good drought tolerance; Butte is tallerblue grama Bad River (SD) X X X 1-2 ́ eyebrow-shaped seed head; slender (Bouteloua gracilis) stalks; excellent drought tolerance;  bunchgrassprairie cordgrass Red River (ND, SD, MN) X X 5-7 ́ R prefers wetter sites; tall, robust plant;(Spartina pectinata) spreads aggressively by rhizomeCOOL-SEASON (Native)Canada wildrye Mandan (ND) X X X 2-4 ́ S nodding seed head with awns; excellent(Elymus canadensis) winter accent plant; bunchgrass

green needlegrass Lodorm (ND) X X 2-4 ́ black seed with awns; bunchgrass(Nasella viridula)Indian ricegrass Rimrock (MT) X X 1-2 ́ delicate branching on seedheads; seeds (Oryzopsis hymenoides) resemble tiny pearls; prefers dry sites 

14

1May spread by: S = Seed, R = Rhizomes

Ac

Accindiare weedectypeusintranpattand becattradvSpefall/to runwvarspenot in a ‘Badacc
Heath 

late se

WILDFLOWERS

Perennial wildfl owers live for more than two years. They offer something for everyone and are relatively 

easy to maintain.

• Seeding: Wildfl ower seeds are often very small, fl uffy, or irregular-shaped, making it diffi cult to control the total amount 

dispersed. For example, aster and yarrow are better interplanted as small plugs of rooted plants. That way, there is less chance of overseeding and crowding out other species in the garden.

• Potted Plants: Containerized material should be healthy—leaf and stem colors appear normal with little or no yellowing or 

discoloration. Smaller containers are less expensive but greater numbers are required to fi ll an area. Larger material will be 

readily noticeable, but cost more to install.

• Planting: Prepare the soil well ahead of planting. Avoid planting during the hot, dry months of summer. For potted plants, follow 

spacing recommendations and keep watered prior to and after transplanting. Sow seed into a fi rm, moist seedbed, mulch lightly, 

and apply frequent, light sprinkler irrigation. Monitor and inspect for insect pests and control weeds as they appear. 

• Maintenance: Extend the fl owering period and promote re-bloom by “deadheading” the fl ower after it dies. Use sharp pruning 

shears to cut and remove the dead blossom. When plants reach maturity, divide the crown into smaller portions and transplant into another area, recycle to a like-minded gardener, or add to the compost pile. In late fall or early spring, cut back all dead plant parts. Remove debris to reduce pest and disease problems.

Landscape Uses

Wildfl ower use in the landscape is unlimited, as plants are available in many sizes, shapes, and colors. Plants that have similar 

water and light requirements should be grouped together. The development of a landscape plan is recommended and landscape design professionals can be consulted for assistance. 

Border plants are used along the edge of a structure, hard surface, or lawn area. They function as hedges, screens, traffi c 

guides, and foundation plantings. Open and semi-open space can be defi ned with 

the use of borders. Limit number of plant types to avoid visual chaos. 

Specimens are separate, individual plants that attract attention to their ornamental beauty. They are generally selected for large size and stature, or for unusual shape, color, or texture. Specimens function as solitary elements for viewing from all sides or as a dominant feature in a mass planting. They should be used sparingly to avoid attracting attention to many different points. 

Massing similar plants in a group mimics nature and creates a sense of unity in the design. Natural environments have clusters of vegetation that slowly shift in composition with altering conditions. Mass plantings act as an orderly connection among other planting groups.

Spreadareas tas a lawalong pcanopi

beds. Cto a groconsum

15

It’s witoxicitThe fopoisolivestoincludfoxglolocowoak, plocal bprovid

Specimens Borders Mass Plantings 

Living Landscapes in South Dakota: A GUIDE TO NATIVE PLANTSCAPING

Blazing star lazing star Maximilian aximilian

sunflower Lewis flax 
Wildfl owers for Native Landscapes

Common Name Scientifi c Name* Soil1 PHZ2 Precip. Longevity3 Color4 Invasive5 Ht.  inches feetcommon yarrow Achillea millefolium C, M, F 3a-5a 9 LP W R 1-2 leadplant Amorpha canescens C, M 3a-5a 12 LP Pu - 1-4 littleleaf pussytoes Antennaria microphylla C, M, F 3a-4b 12 SP W R 1 columbine Aquilegia canadensis C, M 3a-5a 16 LP P S 1-3 plains coreopsis Coreopsis tinctoria C, M 3a-5a 12 A-SP Y S 1-2 white prairieclover Dalea candida C, M 3a-4b 12 LP W – 1-3 purple prairieclover Dalea purpurea C, M 3a-4b 14 LP Pu – 1-2 purple conefl ower Echinacea angustifolia M, F 3a-4a 12 LP P S 2-3 

blanketfl ower Gaillardia aristata C, M, F 3a-4b 10 LP Y S 3 

prairie smoke Geum trifl orum C, M, F 3a-5a 12 LP P – 1 

Maximilian sunfl ower Helianthus maximiliani C, M, F 3b-5a 14 SP Y R-S 4-6 

dotted gayfeather Liatris punctata C, M 3b-4b 10 LP P – 1-2 Lewis fl ax Linum lewisii C, M 3a-4b 10 SP B S 1-2 lupine Lupinus sp. C, M, F 3a-5a 14 LP All R 1-2 bergamot beebalm Monarda fi stulosa C, M, F 3a-4b 12 MP Pu S 2-4 

plains pricklypear Opuntia polyacantha C, M, F 3b-4b 8 LP Y – – beardtongue Penstemon sp. C, M 3a-5a 10 A-SP All – 1-4 Hood’s phlox Phlox hoodii C, M 3b-4b 10 LP W R - obedient plant Physotegia parvifolia C, M 3a-5a 20 LP P R 1-3 prairie conefl ower Ratibida columnifera C, M, F 3a-4b 10 SP Y S 1-3 

black-eyed susan Rudbeckia hirta C, M, F 3a-5a 12 SP Y S 1-2 cup plant Silphium perfoliatum C, M 3a-5a 16 LP Y S 6 scarlet globemallow Sphaeralcea coccinea M, C 3a-5a 8 P O R 1 smooth blue aster Symphyotrichum laeve C, M, F 3a-4b 12 MP B – 2-3 prairie thermopsis Thermopsis rhombifolia M, F 3b-4b 8 LP Y – 1-2 Culver’s root Veronicastrum virginicum C, M 3a-5a 16 LP W – 2-5 soapweed yucca Yucca glauca C 3a-4b 8 LP W – 1-2 

* Taxonomy from USDA NRCS PLANTS Database; 1 C Coarse (sands to gravels), M Medium (intermediate combinations), F Fine (silts to clays); 2 USDA Plant Hardiness Zone; 3 

Moderate-lived Perennial, LP Long-lived Perennial; 4 W White, Y Yellow, R Red, B Blue, P Pink, Pu Purple, O Orange; 5 S Seed, R Rhizome; 6 S Spring, Su Summer, F Fall, E Ea

fl ies, Dr Deer resistant, M Medicinal

16
Selecting the Best Type of Nursery Stock

CHOOSING THE RIGHT TREES AND 

SHR

17

Types of Nursery Stock

Bareroot 

These plants are dug and shipped as dormant 1- to 4-yearold stock without any soil surrounding their roots. For most situations, bareroot stock should not show leaf emergence at the time of purchase. Late planting season purchases may show slight leaf emergence but will require more stringent planting and maintenance the fi rst year to ensure survival. Conservation grade conifers are also produced as bareroot stock.

Container 

These plants are grown in a pot for at least one growing season. Stock grown in a pot, especially stock carried over from one season to the next, may develop girdling roots that need to be gently loosened from the root ball and spread radially from the trunk at planting. If this is not possible, make one or two vertical slashes 1 to 2 inches deep through the root ball to sever girdling roots.

Potted

Bareroot stock is planted in pots just weeks prior to spring sales. Generally, by the time of purchase, little root growth will have occurred. Though not grown in the pot, these plants can be used successfully if proper depth and root orientation are achieved. Potted stock extends the planting season compared to bareroot stock.

Balled and Burlapped (B&B) 

These are hand or mechanically dug fi eld-grown plants that have their roots and surrounding soil wrapped in burlap fabric and secured with twine or pins. Used primarily for large, fi eldgrown stock. Once the plant has been placed at the proper depth in the planting hole, all twine and burlap should be removed. It is permissible to leave small inaccessible amounts directly beneath the bottom of the ball.

Wire Baskets

This is a form of B&B that utilizes a wire basket to secure the root ball in lieu of twine. All wire and burlap should be removed after the plant has been placed in the planting hole. It is permissible to leave small inaccessible amounts directly beneath the bottom of the ball.

ADVANTAGES DISADVANTA

Bareroot • inexpensive • proper storag • ease of planting • roots easily d • fi eld grown hardiness air exposure • easy to replant • shorter planti • adapts to planting site soils Container • long planting season window • more expens • reduced transplant shock • may have mo • trees may be leafed at purchase • heavier to ha • adaptation to onsite soils may be  delayedPotted • cheaper than balled and burlapped • heavier to ha • can be planted after bud break • have to treat  • easier to determine healthy stock proper root a • soil often falls B&B • reduced transplant shock on smaller • expensive stock (better survival) • heavy • “instant” tree • diffi cult and e • proper depth 

 • generally few

 • excessively la

Living Landscapes in South Dakota: A GUIDE TO NATIVE PLANTSCAPING

Avoid 

plants w

small lea

that are un

yellow or w

scorched ma

T
Pond

trunk 

Healthy 

Tree and Shrub Health

The outward appearance of a plant can provide insight into its overall health. Examine nursery stock closely before purchasing it.Healthy Roots

• Actively growing stock should have white root tips. • Healthy plants should have enough fi brous root mass to retain the shape of the 

root ball once the container or burlap is removed.

• Bareroot material should have a shoot to root ratio of 1:1 or 2:1 with extensive, 

fi brous roots.

Healthy Trunk and Branches

• A healthy tree trunk should be straight, slightly tapered, and capable of remaining 

upright on its own. It should be uniformly branched along its length with half the leaf area in the lower two-thirds of the canopy.

• The trunks of large trees should be fi rmly connected to the root ball (i.e., not 

move independently).

• Branches should be free from signs of mechanical injury, sunburn, sunscald, 

insect, disease, or other forms of stress.

• The branches and tops of trees should not be severely pruned.• Stems should have no insect borer holes, and any injuries should be less than 1⁄2 

inch in size.

Healthy Foliage

• Adequate and uniform foliage• Leaves appropriately sized and uniformly colored for the species • No signs of bud swell or growth should appear on dormant stock.

Geographic SuitabilityGenerally, plants perform better if they are planted within 200 miles North-South and 400 miles East-West of where they originated. Origin means where they grew and developed naturally, not the location of the wholesale nursery.

Bareroot

Balled and burlapped

Container

Ch

18

TIP:

Determine proper planting depth for potted, B&B, and wire basketed trees by gently probing with a fi nger or trowel through the top of the soil immediately adjacent to the stem. Avoid damage to bark or roots. Measure from the trunk fl are to the bottom of the pot or root ball. Dig the hole no deeper than that. Trunk fl are is that part of the trunk with a noticeable diameter increase at the juncture with the roots.

T

O

t

fi 

c

b

m
19

TREES AND SHRUBS

Living Landscapes in South Dakota: A GUIDE TO NATIVE PLANTSCAPING

Transport all stock in a covered vehicle to prevent dessication of the tops and drying of the roots. Bareroot stock should have the roots covered with saturated (soaked in water for several hours) shingle tow, wood shavings, 

sphagnum moss, or shredded paper. The root coverings should be moist for the entire trip, but the roots should not be immersed in containers of water. Bareroot plants are shipped dormant and should be planted as soon as possible, usually within 72 hours of leaving the nursery. For short storage intervals (less than 3 days), bareroot plants can be kept in cool, shaded locations outdoors or in a cool basement. Cover the roots as was done for transport from the nursery. Inspect daily to ensure root covering remains moist. Make sure all the root covering is thoroughly saturated. It works best to soak the root coverings in a bucket of water before covering the roots. The root covering material should always be wet enough that a bit of water can be squeezed from a handful. Keep seedlings out of direct sun, and protect from wind dessication and heat build-up. Never let the roots dry out during the planting process, even for a few seconds. For time periods of less than an hour, bareroot trees can be transported in buckets of water during the planting process. Do not damage roots during storage or planting by bending, breaking, scraping bark, etc.

Container/potted plants offer more fl exibility in p

than bareroot stock. The soil in the pot provides a permitting active growth when weather conditions needed to wet the entire pot. Ensure that pots havwater to drain. Container plants may have been pomay have been grown in the pot for several seasoprotected area out of direct light. When planting, cfrom the pot.Balled and Burlapped (B&B) material often requsize and weight of the plant, roots, and soil. Do not alone. Support the trunk and root ball simultaneoubroken at the trunk surface. Never drop a B&B plafrom a slight elevation. Gently slide or roll large B&Never attempt to move an excessively wet root balcontainer plants. Media such as a sand/peat mix mduring long-term storage. Special provisions may bduring storage in high wind locations.

Intermediate Care, Storage, and Handling of Trees and Shrubs
Common Scientifi c Mature Mature Growth Shade Wildlife Wildlife Fall 

Name Name Height Crown Rate Tolerance Food Cover Leaf Col

Trees

American Basswood Tilia americana 50-70 30-50 Medium T S N, L Brown/Yell

Ash, Black Fraxinus nigra 30-50 15-30 Medium I S N, L Yellow Ash, Green Fraxinus pennsylvanica 35-65 30-40 Medium I S N, L Yellow Aspen, Quaking Populus tremuloides 25-60 20-30 Medium N W N, L, E Yellow Birch, Paper Betula papyrifera 8-15 6-12 Medium N W N, L Yellow Boxelder Acer negundo 30-60 30-60 Fast N S N, L, W, B Yellow/BrowCottonwood Populus deltoides 50-90 40-75 Fast N W N, L, W Yellow Crabapple* Malus sp. 10-25 15-25 Medium N W N, L Brown/YellHackberry Celtis occidentalis 40-60 25-45 Medium I W N, L, B Yellow Hawthorn, Downy Crataegus mollis 15-20 15-20 Slow N S N, L, E, W, B Yellow/BrowIronwood Ostrya virginiana 15-30 10-20 Slow T N N, L Yellow Juniper, Rocky Mountain Juniperus scopulorum 12-30 12-20 Slow I W N, L, E, W None Oak, Bur Quercus macrocarpa 40-70 35-60 Slow N W N, L, B Yellow/BrowPine, Ponderosa Pinus ponderosa 60-75 15-30 Medium N W N, L, E, W None Redcedar, Eastern Juniperus virginiana 40-50 20-25 Slow I W N, L, E, W None Spruce, Black Hills Picea glauca densata 30-50 15-25 Medium I W N, L, E, W Green Spruce, Colorado Blue* Picea pungens 30-65 15-25 Medium N W N, L, E, W Green 

Shrubs

Buffaloberry, Silver Shepherdia argentea 6-14 8-14 Medium N W N, L, E, W None 

Chokeberry Aronia melanocarpa 5-6 5-6 Medium I S N, L, E, W, B Yellow/ReChokecherry, Common Prunus virginiana 12-25 10-20 Medium I S N, L, E, W Yellow Cranberry, Highbush Virburnum trilobum 8-12 8-12 Medium T W N, L, W Purple/ReCurrant, Golden Ribes aureum 3-6 3-6 Medium I S N, L Yellow Dogwood, Redosier Cornus sericea 7-10 10-15 Fast T S N, L, E, W, B Purple Hazel, American Corylus americana 6-8 6-8 Medium T S N, L, E Yellow Indigo, False Amorpha fruticosa 8-12 6-10 Medium N W L, B Yellow Juneberry Amelanchier alnifolia 6-15 5-12 Slow I S N, L, E, W Yellow Juniper, Common Juniperus communis 3-6 3-8 Slow I S N, L, E, W Blue/GreePlum, American Prunus americana 8-10 8-10 Medium I W N, L, E, W, B Yellow/OranRaspberry Rubes idaeus 3-6 3-6 Fast I S L, B Yellow Rose, Prairie Rosa arkansana 1-2 1-3 Slow N W L, B Yellow Rose, Woods Rosa woodsii 2-4 3-4 Medium I W L, B Purple Saltbush, Four-winged Atriplex canescens 4-5 3-4 Slow I W L Grey/GreeSandcherry, Western Prunus pumilla var. besseyi 3-6 3-6 Medium N S N, L, B Yellow Silverberry Elaeagnus commutata 6-9 3-6 Medium N W N, L, E, W None Sumac, Skunkbush Rhus trilobata 5-8 4-10 Medium I S N, L, E, W Red/YelloSumac, Smooth Rhus glabra 5-15 10-15 Slow I W N, L, E, W Red Viburnum, Nannyberry Viburnum lentago 10-14 8-12 Slow I W L, E, W Yellow/ReWillow, Bebbs Salix bebbiana 8-12 4-8 Fast N S N, L, E, W None Willow, Sandbar Salix interior 6-10 5-10 Fast N S N, L, E, W None Yucca Yucca glauca 2-5 1-3 Slow N N L Grey/Gree

Groundcovers

Juniper, Spreading Juniperus horizontalis <1 1-3 Slow N W E Blue/GreeSnowberry Symphoricarpos albus 1-5 1-3 Slow I W N, L, E, W, B Brown 

Vine

Grape, Riverbank Vitis riparia 40-45 1 Medium I S L Orange/Re

Woodbine Parthenocissus quinquefolia 45-50 1 Fast T S L Orange/Re

Growth Rate: Slow=<1’ per year; Medium = 1-2 per year; Fast = >2’ per year. Shade Tolerance: N = Not Tolerant; I = Intermediate; T = Tolerant. Wildlife Food: W = Winter food and growing season food; S = Growing season fo

N = nesting; L = loafi ng; E = escape; W = winter; B = Benefi cial to butterfl ies. Fall Leaf Color: Note that colors may vary between seasons and due to soil chemistry for the same species. Minimum Precipitation: H = needs wa

cies – Though introduced, Colorado Blue Spruce and crabapple can be used to provide many aesthetic and wildlife benefi ts. Except for very rare site conditions, these species will not establish off site from roots or seeds. 

Trees and Shurbs for Native Landscapes

20
TREES AND SHRUBS

Anatomy of a Properly Planted Tree

21 Living Landscapes in South Dakota: A GUIDE TO NATIVE PLANTSCAPING

* Do not leave roots exposed to the air 

for even brief periods. Keep bareroot 

plants covered with wet burlap, sheets, 

or blankets during the planting process. 

Make sure roots are fully extended and 

spread radially from the trunk in planting 

hole. 

* Always remove the 

plant from the pot prior to planting.

TIPS: TREE PLANTING

Adapted from Windbreaks for Montana: A Landowner’s Guide, Cooperative Extension Service, Montana State University Bulletin 366, July 1986 

Always call SD One-Call

before digging. 

1-800-781-7474 or 811 (in-state)
Step 9: Use so

material that w6 to 12 inches movement in w

after 2 years.

St4 sSt12 trejusshRe

Step 1: Dig hole 2 to 3 times wider than the diameter of the root ball or pot. It should be no deeper than the root ball. The trunk fl are should be partially visible above the fi rmed and watered soil.

Step 5: Backfi ll to half of depth; lightly pack. Water to top of hole. Replace remaining soil once water has soaked away.

Step 4: Make sure trunk is vertical.

Step 3: Bareroot – spread roots radially from trunk. Potted – remove pot, untangle roots, and spread radially from trunk. Container grown – remove pot, inspect for girdling roots. If present, make several vertical cuts with sharp knife about 2 inches into root ball. Ensure that a portion of the trunk fl are will 

be above existing soil grade. Remove all twine, netting, and wire baskets. It is permissible to leave small inaccessible amount directly beneath the bottom of the ball.

Step 10: Spread 3 quality coarse, orgadeep mulching aga

layers of mulch evemaintain effective wwater infi ltration, antemperature extremaround trees also pmowers and line tri

Steps to Tree Planting

Step 2: If present, break through impervious soil layers to allow root expansion. If deeper than the planting depth, be sure to backfi ll 

and fi rm material to prevent 

settling of the tree.

22
WATER CONSERVATION

Water is wasted when applied too heavily or rapidly. Excessive slope and poor location for turf area contribute to runoff.

In the development and maintenance of a native landscape, water conservation is the driving force behind effi cient and aesthetic designs. Plants should be grouped 

in separate water-use zones according to their water needs and function within a landscape. Monitoring soil moisture to determine when to irrigate is better than using a pre-set schedule. The soil water-holding capacity will vary with soil type, amount of organic matter, and climatic conditions.

O

• So

reqtha

• Slo

wathaadrun

• Be

an

• Av

thr

• Av

win

• De

to mo

Low pressure sprinkler systems conserve water by delivering small amounts exactly where needed.

23

Supplemental Water Requirements

Seedings: A moist soil profi le, at time of planting, will increase seeding success. Watering should be done in frequent, light applications during the fi rst 4 to 6 weeks to ensure good seed germination, emergence, and root development. The use of an organic mulch can reduce the potential fl uctuations in surface soil moisture and soil temperature during this critical establishment period. New seedings without mulch may require light watering 2 to 3 times per day to maintain soil surface and seed moisture.Transplants: Young transplants require frequent and regular watering until 

root development can provide the proper shoot to root ratio. Some woody species (oak in particular) spend several years developing an extensive root system before a corresponding increase in above-ground development is realized.Established Plantings: There are two times during the year when it is critical that the rooting zone of a plant be at or near fi eld capacity – fall and 

early spring. Fall moisture is essential for the health and vigor of plants for winter survival. Evergreens, in particular, should be deep watered in late fall to prepare for possible warm periods during the winter months. As temperatures rise in the spring, water is needed to support rapid early growth.

Living Landscapes in South Dakota: A GUIDE TO NATIVE PLANTSCAPING
H

1H

Water Conservation Strategies

Zoning

Plants should be established in zones to maximize water use effi ciency. These zones 

dictate the best irrigation system to be used, e.g., underground sprinkler (high watering zones), drip/trickle (moderate watering zones), or conventional hose (low watering zones).

High Watering Zones Moderate Watering Zones Low Watering Zones20 gals. added per sq. ft. 10 gals. added per sq. ft. 2 to 3 gals. added per sq. ft.per growing season per growing season per growing season1⁄2 inch 3 times/week 3⁄4 inch once/week 1⁄2 inch every two weeksApprox. 30 inches added/season Approx. 16 inches added/season Approx. 5 inches added/season

Shading/Shielding

Plants that have high moisture requirements or prefer shade can be located beneath or on the shady side of larger plants, fences, or buildings. Afternoon sunlight is more intense, so plants to be shaded should be put on the easterly side of large plants or structures.

Mulching/Landscape Fabric

Mulches are used to minimize evaporation, and reduce weed growth and erosion. Apply mulch directly to the soil surface or over landscape fabric. Don’t use black plastic unless it’s been perforated; it prevents air and water from reaching plant roots and reduces benefi cial soil organisms.

How Much/How Often

The amount of supplemental water applied and the duration of each application depends on several factors:• amount and type of plant cover• amount of organic matter• type of soil (infi ltration rate)• water application method• soil compaction (bulk density)• time of day• weather (evapo-transpiration)• slope (runoff potential)Caution: Rock mulch can serve as a heat 

sink and also refl ect heat to surrounding plants and buildings.

Soaker with ve

Soil 

texture   Sandy Silty Loamy Clayey 

The freprimarthe plaof the smonitoi.e., losof leaf The mo

slow, dto indivinstallesoil sulow presystem Drip syover sa

Root Lengths VaryRoot depth is proportional to top growth. There are exceptions: grass roots can be shallow or very deep; bulb roots are short compared to their top growth.Tree roots spread from the trunk for a distance equal to or greater than the height of the tree. 75 percent or more of the roots are within the top 12 inches of soil.

Mulches such as rock or bark can be placed on top of the landscape fabric to attain a particular aesthetic appearance.

Organic mulches such as wood chips, peat moss, sphagnum moss, or grass clippings decompose and improve soil texture, but must be replenished periodically. Apply in a layer 2 to 3 inches deep between plants.Inorganic mulches such as rocks or gravel rarely need replacement and are good in windy areas. Apply in a layer 2 to 4 inches deep between plants. This usually works best if installed on top of landscape fabric.Newly seeded areas can be mulched with weed-free hay, straw, or composted grass clippings. This will help retain soil moisture, increase site stability (reduce soil and water erosion), and provide more uniform heat at the time of seed germination. Apply mulch in a layer no more than 1/2 inch deep over the seeded area.

In

fi ltra

Water 

24

Area to irrigate
MAINTENANCE

Pruning is usually done on woody plants, but can also refer to the removal of seedheads and other mature plant parts from herbaceous plants.

Herbaceous Plants

Maturing seedheads can be pruned to stimulate secondary fl owering or prolong 

vegetative growth later in the growing season. Herbaceous material should be trimmed and removed in late fall or early winter. Mature specimen plants can be left to add winter color or aid in trapping snow. Herbaceous specimen plants left standing over winter should be trimmed in early spring to remove dead plant material and unwanted plant litter.

Prescribed burning can be an effective tool for maintaining native landscapes. Always check localregulations and work with experienced personnel.

To avoid clipping basal leaves of w

control in established plantings sho

25

Avoid leaving a stub. Remove the entire limb, cutting close to the branch collar of the trunk or branch from which it is removed. Do not cut into the branch collar (fl ush cut).Use sharp, high-quality pruners. Note:

sterilize pruners with 10 percent bleach solution after cutting diseased branches.

Woody Plants 

Woody plants should be pruned at an early age to conform with the intended use and landscape design. Trim to a single stem or leave as multi-stem plant.

 • Prune lower branches to provide lower 

stem sanitation or alleviate shading of adjacent groundcover plants.

 • Prune disease and insect-affected 

plant parts to minimize spread.

 • Remove rubbing, deformed, or dead 

branches at any time.

 • Prune interior limbs to reduce wind 

resistance.

 • Conifers should be pruned in spring 

or early summer. They are usually pruned to correct deformities.

 • Deciduous trees and shrubs should 

be dormant-pruned in late fall or winter.

Pruning/Trimming

Living Landscapes in South Dakota: A GUIDE TO NATIVE PLANTSCAPING

T

U

th

a

s

d

p

p

c
Noxious weeds such as leafy spurge can 

take over an entire landscape if allowed to spread.

Sanitaand pravoideplantsimmunpruninsome naturalate afNative rural apotentrabbitsare larsome be necsectioshrubs Perenprior tplan. Akeepinfi rst twmost mplants becomCautioherbicwoody 

Fertilizer

Most arid and semiarid native plants do not need supplemental fertilization if established on natural soil conditions. If subsoil is exposed or the soil is extremely sandy, fertilization may be warranted. Excess fertilization will increase biomass production, thus increasing soil moisture requirements for the plants.

New Seedlings

Unless you are planting into a very raw mineral soil, fertilizers (particularly nitrogen) should not be applied the seeding year—as you would only be feeding the weeds rather than the seeded plant material. Incorporation of supplemental phosphorus when preparing the seedbed helps promote root development.

Established Plant Material

Grasses: Apply in the fall (early to midSeptember) to promote winter survival and early spring growth.Wild

fl owers: Use very low rates, if any 

at all. High fertility levels will stimulate spindly and weak stem growth.Trees and Shrubs: Apply macronutrients 

(N-P-K) early in the growing season. Late summer application could delay proper “hardening off.” Micronutrients are available in foliar spray. Since safe limits for application rates of trace elements are narrow, they are best applied with caution. High and low soil pH can limit essential micronutrient availability to plants.

Adopt an Integrated Pest Management (IPM) approach to controlling weeds, insects, and disease. This approach incorporates monitoring to determine the level of infestation with a combination of control measures, i.e., cultural practices, pesticides, biological control, choosing plants with pest and disease resistance, maintaining good plant health (vigor), practicing good sanitation, and properly timed control methods. Cultural practices include tillage, hand-pulling of weeds or hand-plucking of insects, and mowing. InsectsNative vegetation often attracts desirable insects rather than pests. Butterfl ies 

and other pollinators will be attracted by fl owering forbs and shrubs. Conscientious use of pesticides, use of less toxic 

compounds (insecticidal soap, dormant oil spray, diatomaceous earth), and strategic placement of insect-deterring plants should control most insect pest problems. Monitor insect populations closely and apply control measures in the early stages of infestation. 

26

Mowing

When mowing, leave at least a 3-inch stubble height. With taller-statured grasses, an even higher stubble height should remain. Various grass species respond differently to mowing. Rhizomatous species are stimulated by frequent clipping while bunchgrasses are often stressed or even eliminated by frequent cutting.Mowing frequency and intensity will vary according to the species and intended use of a particular stand of grass.

• Manicured Lawn

Maintain at uniform height. Most sod-forming species are naturally short-statured.

 • Biomass Removal

Consider removal of dormant or dead stems and leaves at the end of a growing season for fi re prevention 

and reduction of potential snow drifting.

• Weed Control

Mowing, especially during the establishment year, can help with weed control by not allowing annual weeds to set seed.

Fire can be used as a substitute for mowing to reduce biomass when the grasses are dormant, i.e., late fall or early spring. Mature warm-season grasses, in particular, benefi t from the removal of 

biomass, which stimulates the next year’s growth. Avoid property damage and annoyance to neighbors. Burning permits may be required — inquire locally.

N-P-K 

Pest Control

Caution: Overuse of fertilizers may result in the co

ground water, and the unwise use of natural resouidentify soil nutrient defi ciencies and fertilize accor
A sun shade protects a ponderosa 

pine seedling

Protecting Plants from Desiccatio

Desiccation occurs when water loss from the plant (transpiration) exceeds its soil. Numerous factors contribute to desiccation including temperature, wind available soil moisture, and stage of plant growth.• Cease weed control in and around trees and shrubs in mid to late August, 

tall to trap snow and increase available water to the plant. Deep snow pacfrom drying winds and animal browse.

• Water in anticipation of high plant demands throughout the growing seaso• If the soil is dry in late August to the fi rst week of September, saturate the 

dessication. 

• Use anti-desiccant spray on green foliage to reduce water loss from leave

This is also benefi cial to conifers when applied just before freeze-up.

• Install wood mulch or weed control fabric to conserve soil moisture. • Use shingles or screens on the west and south sides of newly planted see

and sun exposure.

• Install manufactured tree shelters to protect from sun and wind, and to enc

establishment. 

Protecting Plants from People 

People often injure landscape plants through neglect, carelessness, or misgupeople includes proper landscape design, appropriate species selection, prophysical barriers, the use of warning signs, and proper education. Protection is the preventative maintenance of plant care. Although it is o

damage from animals or people, protection includes any proactive stepmaintain health. An important step in this process is selecting well-ada

in a vigorous condition.

PLANT PROTECTION

Line trimmer dama

27 Living Landscapes in South Dakota: A GUIDE TO NATIVE PLANTSCAPING

Tree shelter protecting cherry tree.
Livesto

28

Sidewalks help protect plants in heavy traffi c areas.

Strategies for Protection from People

Common People ProtectiveProblems MeasuresMower and • install synthetic wrap around base of trunkweed trimmer • install weed barrier or mulch around base of treeinjury to trees • install ornamental fenceand shrubs • plant fl owers or ground cover around base of tree

Heavy traffi c • install physical barrier, (man-made or plants) 

 to reduce traffi c 

 • construct a sidewalk or path • construct a fence or wall • install warning signs (commercial)Misapplied • apply pesticides only when absolutely necessary chemicals • always follow label instructionsand fertilizers • base fertilizer applications on soil test results  (if some is good, more is not necessarily better) • consult with a professionalImproper mowing • mowing too low is often a problem; raise mowing  height to 3 inches • keep blades sharp to prevent tearingImproper pruning • learn proper pruning techniques • use sharp, high-quality pruners • if unsure, hire a professional

Ornamental landscapes attract and provide habitat for numerous animals including deer, rabbits, gophers, mice, and other wildlife. Although some designs intentionally incorporate features to attract wildlife, damage to landscape plants can be serious and may warrant the need for protection. The type and cost of protection varies with the value of the plants and the potential for damage.Repellents. Repellents are products that, when applied to the plant or soil, discourage animals from feeding on or otherwise damaging the plant. They are:• Usually low-cost products• Well suited for use in gardens, 

orchards, nurseries, and ornamental landscapes

• Generally, only effective for a short 

period of time and require multiple applications in order to continue providing protection

• Increasingly ineffective as browse and 

forage become limited

Exclusion. In general, exclusion systems provide more absolute protection than other techniques. These barriers may be physical and/or electrical in mode of action. Physical barriers include wire cylinders and cages, ventilated plastic tubing, netting, wraps, fences, screens, and hardware cloth. 

Protecting Plants from 

Culturacontrolmowing the vicidense trees aPlant Scan soplants tand liveanimals vegetaUsing Protecdomesin scardesigns have pindustrAnima

may be animalscontrol Sacri

fi 

cost crolure wilCaution such syanimals to farm 

A wire cylinder excludes browsing animals.
PLANNING AND PLANTING FOR WILDLI

29

Properly planned native landscapes can provide wildlife with various habitat needs. Selecting plants 

that provide food, cover, and water to landscapes can provide the needed habitat elements for many species that will visit your backyard.

During the planning process wildlife habitat requirements need to be considered. Wildlife needs vary from year-round habitat for resident species to seasonal habitat for migratory species. Various types of wildlife species will visit if their habitat requirements are provided.The types of plants used to provide food and cover will determine the wildlife species that are attracted. Select native species that fl ower and bear fruit or 

can prointo falclusterforbs, oneeded shrubsincreasclose pattracti

Living Landscapes in South Dakota: A GUIDE TO NATIVE PLANTSCAPING

seed at different times during the short Northern Plains growing season. Plant a variety of species including grasses, fl owering forbs, shrubs, and trees. Shrubs that hold their fruit into fall and winter can provide food well into the winter season. Native forbs will attract butterfl ies.A variety of herbaceous and woody plant materials will provide a diversity of structure for wildlife cover. Depending on the species selected, these same plants 

Swallowtail on echinacea wallowtail on echinacea

Photo: Joan Sieler

Buttea wild

Photo: Cole

Water features are aesthetically pleasing ater features are aesthetically pleasing

Photo: Colette Kessler

Cardinal feeding in winter ardinal feeding in winter
Food 

Learn the food needs of the species you wish to attract and plant accordingly. Provide plant species that will yield a variety of foods during the year. If you wish to attract birds, plant species that retain fruit into the winter season, such as junipers, highbush cranberry, native rose species, or species that will retain seeds into the winter such as Maximilian sunfl ower. Native grasses 

also provide seeds for birds. A variety of fl owering forbs attract insects and will attract birds that feed on those insects. Hummingbirds can be attracted by planting fl owers with high nectar levels. Butterfl ies 

seem more attracted to purple and white fl owers than yellow. Cover

Wildlife species need multiple cover types located close to food to avoid predation and exposure to harsh winter elements. The type of wildlife you wish to attract will dictate the required type of covers planted. Planting native grasses and forbs will attract birds that nest on the ground and feed on small seeds and insects. Planting a variety of trees and shrubs will attract bird species that nest in woody vegetation and use fruits or nuts as food sources. Cover must be close enough to food to provide safe access for wildlife. Cover types that provide an array of vertical structure will attract a wider variety of wildlife species. Management of cover is a key component to attract wildlife. If native grasses and forbs are mowed during the primary nesting season, nesting cover is destroyed. Leave residual cover into winter to provide adequate nesting cover in spring. To provide nesting cover, native grasses should not be mowed during the nesting season from mid-April to late July and should only be mowed periodically (once every 3 to 5 years) to provide the residual cover needed for ground or grass nesting birds. 

30

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Considerations

Water

Wildlife needs may vary. However, they all need water to survive. Some species utilize dew on plants while other species need open water. Plan for water in your backyard. If natural water is available, protect it from sedimentation and nutrient loading with grass buffers. Artifi cial water can be added by use of bird baths, lined ponds, or construction of a clay-lined created wetland. Year-round water is important. A heated water source can attract birds to backyards. Keep water fresh, and provide logs or rocks as escape areas around deep water sources for birds and maybe even a basking turtle. Small depressions in rocks can collect water and attract butterfl ies.

Highbush cranberry make an ighbush cranberry make an excellent food source xcellent food source

A variety of variety of flowering forbs owering forbs
31

Rain gardens should have stanto 48 hours. Mosquitoes generatheir breeding cycle, so rain garpopulations.

RAIN GARDENS

Blazing starLiatris ligulistylisHt: 3 ́Flower: PurpleBloom: July-Aug.Habitat: Full to partial sun. Wet to dry soils.Big bluestemAndropogon gerardiiHt: 3-5 ́Flower: Reddish purpleBloom: July-Sept.Habitat: Full sun.Moist to somewhat dry soils.Blue gramaBouteloua gracilisHt: 1-2 ́Flower: Purple/TanBloom: July–Sept.Habitat: Full sun.Dry soils.Purple conefl owerEchinacea purpureumHt: 2-3 ́Flower: Purple/PinkBloom: Aug.-Sept.Habitat: Full sun. Moist tosomewhat dry soils.IndiangrassSorghastrum nutansHt: 3-5 ́Flower: Reddish/BronzeBloom: July-Sept.Habitat: Full sun.Moist soils.Prairie smokeGeum trifl orumHt: .5-1 ́Flower: PinkBloom: April-JuneHabitat: Full sun.Moist to dry soils.Canada anemoneAnemone canadensisHt: 2 ́Flower: WhiteBloom: May-JuneHabitat: Full to part sun.Wet to moist soils.Red columbineAquilegia canadensisHt: 1.5-2.5 ́Flower: Red/purpleBloom: May-JulyHabitat: Full to part sun.Moist soils.

Purpose

• Provide runoff storage• Enhance water in

fi ltration/recharge

• Trap sediments, nutrients, and 

pollutants

• Provide soil/biological water 

treatment

• Provide wildlife habitat• Provide landscape amenities• Capture and utilize high quality 

precipitation

Rain Gardens – Utilizing the best quality (free) water available 

Rain gardens are shallow depressions that collect storm water from impervious surfaces (roo

fi lter, evaporate, and transpire the runoff. Rain gardens are typically planted with a diverse shrubs, and trees, and are an attractive low-maintenance addition to a home landscape. Fo

captured by a rain garden is much better quality than water that comes from a typical well, and conavailable from urban or rural water systems.

Pla

• Map the property. Note topog

vegetation, underground utilwhere existing runoff fl ows. 

• Calculate the area of all runof

rain garden.

• Locate garden in an area that 

requires the least amount of Stay at least 15 feet away fro50 feet away from septic lea

Living Landscapes in South Dakota: A GUIDE TO NATIVE PLANTSCAPING

Sideoats gramaBouteloua curtipendulaHt: 1-2 ́Flower: Purplish/TanBloom: July-Sept.Habitat: Full sun. Dry soils.

• Make the rain garden about 10 percent the size of t

to 9 inches deep. (6-inch depth will capture 0.6 inccapture 0.9 inches runoff.)

• Direct runoff to the rain garden with drain tile or a c• Plan for a controlled overfl ow to prevent erosion fro

during the fi rst year or two before berms are fully sestablished.

• Choose a variety of native perennials adapted to th

at least 40 percent grasses and sedges to provide textures and support for fl ower stems.

Photo: Mike Haddock Photo: Larry Allain Photo: Eleanor Saulys Photo: Lyndon Anderson Photo: Eleanor Saulys Photo: Eleanor Saulys

Photo: Gregg Thompson

Garage

Driveway

House

Shop

DrainageArea

Rain Garden

Inlet

Plan Map with Prominent Features Shown
32

Purple prairiecloverDalea purpureaHt: 1-2 ́Flower: PurpleBloom: June-AugustHabitat: Full to part sun. Moist soils.

Redtwig dogwoodCornus sericeaHt: 7-10 ́Flower: Yellow/WhiteBloom: May-JuneHabitat: Full to part sun. Moist to wet soils.

Construction

• Remove existing vegetation by tillage, covering with black plastic for several months, or using a herbicide such as glyphosate.

• Dig a shallow bowl (6 to 9 inches deep at the center) with gently sloping sides.• If clay or heavy soils are present, over excavate the site by 1 foot and backfi ll with a mixture of 70 percent washed sand and 30 

percent compost blended together.

• Place excavated soil on the downhill side to create a berm that ensures water will be a uniform depth within the basin. Part of the 

berm should be slightly lower than the inlet to allow for controlled overfl ow from extreme runoff events. 

• Ensure that the top of the berm is perfectly level to reduce the chances of erosion damage.• After seeding and planting the berm, cover with biodegradable erosion control blanket to hold soil in place while plants become 

established.

• Spread 2 to 4 inches of shredded wood mulch over the entire planting area. Ordinary wood chips tend to fl oat and should be avoided.

Planting

• Rooted stock and seeds can be planted from early May until the end of June.• Plant seedlings 12 inches apart, with more fl ood tolerant species toward the bottom and drought tolerant species toward the top.

• Plant species in large clusters to provide more visual impact.

Maintenance

• Rain gardens will require maintenance 

each year, a bit more the fi rst two 

years.

• Ensure the rain garden receives at least 

1 inch of water per week for the fi rst 2 months from irrigation or rain. 

• Control weeds. Placing plant tags near 

each plant or using a plant ID book will aid in determining which are weeds.

• Many native species have strong stems 

and will stay standing even after a snowfall. Allow the year’s growth to stand over winter, providing visual interest, wildlife habitat, and good quality water harvested from snow.

Other Information Sources:

http://www.pca.state.mn.us/publications/manuals/stormwaterplants.htmlhttp://clean-water.uwex.edu/pubs/pdf/home.rgmanual.pdf

Photo: Mike Haddock Photo: Mike Haddock Photo: Mike Haddock Photo: Mike Haddock Photo: Mike Haddock Photo: Mark Brand Photo: Larry Allain Filter strip Wildflowers and grasses Low shrubs 3 ́ wide 12-18 ̋ spacing 30 ̋ spacing Deepest 3 ̋ = wetland. Rest of inner slope = moist. Top of berm and back = dry Shredded wood mulch (3-4 ̋ deep) Blended compost (70% washed sand, 30% wood compost, 1 ́ deep) Basin (6-9 ̋ depth) Loosened soil at base of excavation
ENERGY CONSERVATION

33

Large deciduous trees strategically locatesoutheast and southwest corners of housshade in the summertime and lose leaves to allow sunlight during the wintertime

A windbreak can dramatically reducethe chilling affect of winter winds

Foundation plantings

PLAN VIEWTREE/SHRUB PLACEMENT TO SAVE ENE

Landscape for Heating 

Effi ciency

Tree/shrub windbreaks can dramatically reduce the chilling effect of winter winds. Home heating costs can be cut as much as 30 percent with properly designed windbreaks. Optimum wind protection is downwind from the trees at a distance of 4 to 7 times the height of the trees. Optimum windbreak density of 60 percent is typically achieved with one row of spruce or juniper, two rows of pine, or six rows of deciduous trees. A site-specifi c windbreak design 

is essential to ensure that the location, species selection and arrangement, and maintenance plan are compatible with the soil and the landowner’s preferences.Trees for shade and scenery are usually planted closer to houses and other buildings than are windbreaks. Deciduous trees close to the house let sunlight pass through the crown after the leaves drop, assisting with winter solar gain. Shrubs planted 3 to 5 feet from the north or west side of a house can reduce radiant and convective heat loss. They must be pruned regularly to prevent branches from rubbing and damaging the siding or roof.

Living Landscapes in South Dakota: A GUIDE TO NATIVE PLANTSCAPING

Landscaping to Save Energy

Saving money is an obvious reason for landscaping choices that reduce fossil fuel use. Reduced 

fossil fuel use is environmentally friendly. Landscaping to save energy can benefi t 

wildlife and conserve water. Beauty can be maintained or improved with landscaping that saves energy.Goals for energy-effi cient landscaping 

are reduce heat, air conditioning, and maintenance requirements.
34

Buffalograss lawns require far less energy, time, and mone

Landscape for Cooling Ef

fi ciency

Trees and shrubs can provide valuable shade to a house, reducing energy consumed 

for air conditioning. A shaded roof reduces house temperature as much as 10 degrees. Tall, deciduous trees are preferred for roof shade. Their structure provides shade in summer but lets sunlight through in winter. Optimum distance from tall shade trees to a building is 15 to 20 feet. Sturdy species such as bur oak, hackberry, or green ash are preferred to reduce the risk of broken limbs damaging the building. Proper pruning as the trees grow is crucial for strong limbs and trunks, and prevents rubbing damage to the siding or roof. Instructions are found in the NDSU Extension Service Bulletin “Pruning Trees and Shrubs” at 

http://www.ext.nodak.edu/extpubs/plantsci/trees/h1036w.htm.Tall trees planted on the east side and southeast corner intercept the morning sun, signifi cantly slowing the warm-up process in the summer. Tall trees on the south side 

block valuable sunlight in winter. Tall trees on the west side and southwest corner provide valuable shade from the summer sun on hot afternoons and evenings. Shrubs planted close to the house on the west and east sides can intercept or defl ect 

solar heat, reducing interior temperature. Choose species that are adapted for the space and size of the wall to be screened. Where rubbing damage could occur, plant shrubs far enough away from the house or prune them as needed.Vines can also be grown near or on buildings to intercept solar heat. Selecting a species with desired traits is important. Not all vine species are capable of climbing bare walls. Riverbank grape is a native vine that will produce edible fruit if pruned annually. It is not adapted to climb a bare wall but is suited to a trellis. Woodbine is another native vine that is well suited to intercept solar heat. If you fi nd vines visually 

appealing, they may have a niche in your landscape. Information about different vine species is available from the NDSU Extension Service, 

http://www.ext.nodak.edu/county/cass/horticulture/treeshrub/vines.htm.Air conditioners and heat pumps will consume less energy if they are shaded. A tall shrub or vine-covered arbor can provide shade and attractively screen such equipment. Leave at least 5 feet of clear space around air conditioners and heat pumps for air circulation and maintenance. Place the plant so that at maturity it will shade the air conditioner or heat pump when the appliance is running. 

Landscape to Minimize Maintenance

Lawn mowing burns 800 million gallons of gasoline annually in the USA. About 90 million pounds of pesticides are put on lawns and gardens annually. Irrigating a 75 x 100 square-foot lawn with 3⁄4 inch of water twice a week for eight weeks demands pumping and paying for 56,000 gallons of water. Substantial amounts of chemicals and energy are used to treat and pump municipal and rural water applied to lawns. Landscaping with native plants minimizes mowing, watering, fertilizing, and pesticide inputs.Most lawns in South Dakota are Kentucky bluegrass. They are mowed frequently from May through September. They are regularly irrigated in western South Dakota, and commonly irrigated elsewhere in the state. Fertilizer and herbicides are often applied to this introduced species.Blue grama and buffalograss are short, native perennial grasses, that are alternatives to Kentucky bluegrass for lawns. They are drought-tolerant, warm-season species that grow very little before June or after August. These short species require only 3 to 4 mowings per year and no fertilizer. Irrigation may be required for establishment. Established stands do not require irrigation and spring or fall watering may encourage weed growth. During drought and periods of dormancy, these species turn a tan color. 

Buffalograss prefers clay to loamy soil, while blue grasand to clay. They look alike and can be grown alone blue grama and buffalograss have a uniform appearanOne plan would be to plant Kentucky bluegrass next tthe remainder. A strip of native fl owers can attractively from the low-maintenance blue grama/buffalograss arIrrigation costs can be reduced by piping or channelingarden, or native fl owerbeds. The runoff from some d

enhance plant growth and vigor. 

Mulch can be used for saving water, labor, and energclippings, or other organic matter around trees, shrub

temperature and reduce evaporation. A layer of mulch control weeds. Mulch materials can often be obtained department, neighbors, or utility company. More inforat http://www.nrcs.usda.gov/feature/backyard

Snow is an important consideration in landscaping. Wwill reduce snowblower work and fuel consumption if cjuniper trees with low-level branches intact provide mathe shortest, deepest drifts. Deciduous trees with the longest drifts. Multiple tree rows increase density and 

Photo 
WEEDS AND INVASIVE PLANTS

Weeds are often defi ned as “plants out of place.” An attractive wildfl ower to one individual may be an aggressive, spreading weed threatening to take over fl owerbeds to another individual. 

Noxious weeds are designated by state government and control is required in any setting by county, state or federal law. Distribution of these weeds by any means is not allowed. The uncontrolled spread of noxious weeds can have dramatic impact on local agriculture. Nearly 4.5 million acres are infested. Statewide losses from noxious weeds exceed $80 million annually. Invasive plants can be native or introduced species: 1) that are non-native (or alien) to the ecosystem under consideration and, 2) whose introduction causes or is likely to cause economic or environmental harm or harm to human health. The State of South Dakota has no legal authority regarding invasive plants. Legal parameters and policies regarding invasive plants vary widely among units of government.

35

It is up to the landowner/homeowner to be aware potential problems. The extent of the invasivenemay be subjective and vary widely depending on the plant community.Common forage and turf grass species such as Kentucky bluegrass become invasive on many scommunities. There are many important conservcan easily move offsite and become invasive. Ruand should not be planted in wet sites, riparian amay move offsite and cause environmental or ec

Living Landscapes in South Dakota: A GUIDE TO NATIVE PLANTSCAPING 35

A weed must possess the following characteristics to be declared noxious statewide:• The weed is perennial.• The weed has unique capability to spread rapidly.• The weed is not controllable without special prevention or management.• The weed is capable of decreasing the value of land.• The weed is capable of materially reducing the production of crops or livestock.• The weed is not native to South Dakota.

Noxious Weed Characteristics

Canad

Leafy spurge 
36

Noxious weeds currently listed by the South Dakota Department of Agriculture as noxious state-wide include: Canada thistle, leafy spurge, perennial sow thistle, hoary cress, Russian knapweed, purple loosestrife, and saltcedar. Others listed as local noxious weeds include musk thistle, plumeless thistle, bull thistle, scotch thistle, absinth wormwood, dalmation toadfl ax, yellow toadfl ax, houndstongue, spotted knapweed, diffuse 

knapweed, tansy, St. Johnswort, puncturevine, mullein, burdock, giant knotweed, chicory, and poison hemlock.For scientifi c names, pictures, and specifi c control information, go 

to http://www.state.sd.us/doa/das/noxious.htm#weed. For more 

information, check out SDSU Cooperative Extension Service publication “Noxious Weeds of South Dakota” (Extension Special Series 34) at http://agbiopubs.sdstate.edu/articles/ESS34.pdf

Salt Cedar Purple loosestrife

Why Do Species In

• Opportunity (disturbance, bare ground, climatic • Lack of control mechanisms• Reproductive adaptation that allows them to sp• Tolerance and adaptation to specifi c environme

Management Conside

• Use native species of known origin• Establish vegetation quickly• Maintain healthy ecosystems• Early detection and awareness of invasive plan• Develop a plan for managing noxious weeds an

Methods of Prevention a

• Cultural – modifi cation of human behavior (exam• Biological – natural plant-eating enemies (exam

spurge).

• Mechanical – burning, mowing, cutting, etc. (ex

Siberian elm).

• Chemical – herbicides, generally best in early d

saltcedar when the fi rst few plants are discove

• Barriers – the bottom cut out of a 5-gallon pail 

to keep rhizomatous species from spreading.Choosing the best prevention and control depesurrounding environmental conditions, nature o

Buckthorn understory Buckth

Photo by: (c) John Randall, The Nature Conservancy.
Traditionally, native plants were integrated into every facet of daily living: used for adornments, basketry, building materials, ceremonial events, clothing, cordage, cosmetics, dyes, foods, games, household utensils, medicines, musical instruments, poisons, tools, toys, transportation, and weapons. Plants were gathered throughout South 

Dakota and all vascular life forms were used, from herbs, to grasses, sedges, shrubs, trees, and vines. The vegetation was the grocery store, the pharmacy, and the hardware shop, tailored by each cultural group into its own unique 

ethnobotany. The collective wisdom about how to tend, judiciously harvest, and use native plants has evolved over thousands of years and gives us models of human intervention in nature that demonstrate a common ground between the conservation and utilization of plants. Often, hidden within the simple act of gathering frequently lie complex rules that safeguard the plant stock from being over-harvested. Also, the procurement of different plants can be spiritually signifi cant and/or a 

ceremonial act because for many native peoples, the physical, spiritual, and ceremonial uses of plants are inter-related.

(NRCS Plant Material Center)Referred collectively by outsiders as Sioux, the Sioux call themselves Lakota, Nakota, or Dakota, depending on dialect, which means “friends or allies.” The Sioux had substantial knowledge about their environment, particularly about the use of plants and herbs which grew in their surroundings. The uses to which these plants and herbs were many and varied. For instance, Sioux women still collect edible plants and fruits such as prairie turnips (Psoralea esculenta), chokecherries (Prunus virginiana), and wild plums (Prunus americana). Plants such as sweetgrass (Hierochloe hirta and Hierochloe odorata) and sage (Artemisia ludoviciana), are still collected and used for ceremonial purposes. A large range of traditional medicinal plants like the prairie cone fl ower (Echinacea purpurea and Echinacea angustifolia), also known as echinacea, the root of sweet fl ag (Acorus calamus L.), and yarrow (Achillea millefolium) are also still used today.

CULTURALLY SIGNIFICANT NATIVE PLAN

*Ethnobotany is the study of how different cultures (usually indigenous groups) use, manage, and generally interact with plants. Major topics include ways that different cultures perceive, classify, and evaluate plant species and ways that cultures enhance native plant populations for their own needs using such techniques as pruning, burning, sowing, weeding, and coppicing.

c. 192womaand a same. rind resun or to dry. powdemeat, Ethnoplant tthe turorder and wripenin

Living Landscapes in South Dakota: A GUIDE TO NATIVE PLANTSCAPING 37

Sweetgrass and Sage are still collected and used for ceremonial purposes.

Denve

Larry Allain @ USDA-NRCS PLANTS Database

Sweetgrass weetgrass White sage hite sage
c. 1925 Photograph of a Lakota woman preparing chokecherry patties. The 

pulp and kernels of the fruit were ground together; patties formed and laid out to dry. Chokecherries can be used to make wojopi, a traditional pudding; dried chokecherry patties used to make the ceremonial food, wasna; cherry juice for Sun Dances; and jam for toast and biscuits. 

38

Denver Public Library, Western History Collection, X-31710

 - The uses for plants and herbs weand varied by native cultures -

Traditional medicinal plants like the prairie cone 

fl ower (also 

called echniacea) and yarrow are still in use today.

Larry Allain @ USDA-NRCS PLANTS Database

Comm

omm

Blacksamson echinacea lacksamson echinacea

For culgo gov

As populations of useful native plant species continue to dwindle on tribal and public lands, there is increasing need expressed by Native Americans to the NRCS Plant Material Centers (PMC) and fi eld Offi ces to assist 

them in the re-establishment of culturally signifi cant plants in various landscapes. Ethnobotanical projects involve increasing partnerships between NRCS offi ces, Native American tribes, public land agencies, and private landowners. NRCS Plant Material Specialists in different parts of the country have begun using their skills to assist tribes 

in propmanagsignifi cand raare stiAmericof bastraditio

Wild Plums and Chokecherry were among the many wild species gathered as a food source.

North Dakota State University

(NRCS 

Wild plum ild plum

Chokecherry hokecherry
Living Landscapes in South Dakota: A GUIDE TO NATIVE PLANTSCAPING 39

FIREWISE LANDSCAPING

Emphasize the use of low growing herba

that are kept green during the fi re season throHerbaceous plants include lawn, clover, a vabeddingplants, bulbs, perennial fl owers, and 

Emphasize use of mulches, rock, and no

(concrete sidewalks, brick patios, and asphal

Deciduous ornamental trees and shrubs 

kept green and free of dead plant material, laindividual plants or groups of plants are arranvegetation cannot convey a fi re through them 

deciduous shrubs are preferred.

Minimize the use of ornamental coniferou

juniper, arborvitae, and mugo pine). 

Where permitted, most wildland shrubs a

from this zone and replaced with more desira

bullet). Individual specimens or small groups can be retained so long as they are kept healare pruned to reduce the amount of fuel and removed.

For some areas substantial removal of w

be allowed. In these instances, wildland vegerecommendations presented in steps 2 throuwith local requirements before removal of wild

Tree limbs within 15 feet of a chimney, en

touching the house should be removed.

►►►►►►►

THE LEAN, CLEAN, AND GREE

South Dakota Department of Agriculture - Wildland 

 Living With Fire - A Guide for the Bl

Editor’s note: These two pages contain a summary of Firewise Landscaping steps and tips, and is intended to serve only as a guide. For more in-depth information about protecting your home and land from wildfi re check out these websites: South 

Dakota Wildland Fire Suppression at www.state.sd.us/doa/wfs/urbaninterface.htm; Keep South Dakota Green Association at www.state.sd.us/doa/fi re/sd_green_ 

association.htm; USDA Forest Service/ Black Hills National Forest at www.fs.fed.us/r2/blackhills/; National Interagency Fire Center at www.nifc.gov; FIREWISE at www.fi rewise.org.

About Firewise

No Safety Zone Around the Home o Safety Zone Around the Home

Safety 

afety 

The national Firewise Communities program is a multi-agency effort designed to reach beyond the 

fi re service by involving homeowners, 

community leaders, planners, developers, and others in the effort to protect people, property, and natural resources from the risk of wildland 

fi re - before a 

fi re starts. The Firewise Communities approach 

emphasizes community responsibility for planning in the design of a safe community as well as effective emergency response, and individual responsibility for safer home construction and design, landscaping, and maintenance. The national Firewise Communities program is intended to serve as a resource for agencies, tribes, organizations, 

fi re departments, and 

communities across the U.S. who are working toward a common goal: reduce loss of lives, property, and resources to wildland 

fi re by building 

and maintaining communities in a way that is compatible with our natural surroundings.Firewise Communities is part of the National Wildland/Urban Interface Fire Program, which is directed and sponsored by the Wildland/Urban Interface Working Team (WUIWT) of the National Wild

fi re Coordinating 

Group, a consortium of wildland 

fi re organizations and federal agencies 

responsible for wildland 

fi re management in the United States. The 

WUIWT includes: USDA Forest Service, USDI Bureau of Indian Affairs, USDI Bureau of Land Management, USDI Fish and Wildlife Service, USDI National Park Service, Federal Emergency Management Agency, US Fire Administration, International Association of Fire Chiefs, National Association of State Fire Marshals, National Association of State Foresters, National Emergency Management Association, National Fire Protection Association.

Photos courtesy of South Dakota Department of Agriculture - Wildland 
40

WHAT IS DEFENSIBLE SPACE?Defensible space is the area between a house and an oncoming wildfi re where the vegetareduce the wildfi re threat and to provide an opportunity for fi refi ghters to effectively defend 

defensible space is simply a homeowner’s properly maintained yard.WHAT IS THE RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN VEGETATION AND WILDFIRE THREAT?Many people do not view the plants growing on their property as a threat. But in terms of w

adjacent to their homes can have considerable infl uence upon the survivability of their hou

including plants native to the area as well as ornamental plants, is potential wildfi re fuel. If 

modifi ed and maintained, a wildfi re can be slowed, the length of fl ames shortened, and the 

all of which assist fi refi ghters to defend the home against an oncoming wildfi re.

To create a landscape that will make your home less vulnerable to wild

fi re, the primary goal 

is fuel reduction. Think of the area around your home in zones. Zone 1 is closest to the structure, Zone 4 is the farthest away.

Zone 1 This well-irrigated area encircles 

the structure for at least 30 feet on all sides, providing space for fi re suppression equipment in the event of an emergency. Plants should be limited to carefully spaced fi re resistant tree and shrub species.

Zone 2 Fire resistant plant materials 

should be used here. Plants should be low-growing, and the irrigation system should extend into this section.

Zone 3 Place low-growing plants 

and well spaced trees in this area, remembering to keep the volume of vegetation (fuel) low.

Zone 4 This furthest zone from the 

structure is a natural area. Thin selectively here and remove highly fl ammable 

vegetation.

Also remember to:Carefully space the trees you plant.Take out the “ladder fuels” – vegetation that serves as a link between grass and tree tops. These fuels can carry fi re from vegetation to a structure or from a structure to vegetation.When maintaining a landscape:Keep trees and shrubs pruned. Prune all trees six to 10 feet from the ground.Water and maintain your lawn regularly.Mow dry grass and weeds. Dispose of cuttings and debris promptly. Landscape with less-fl ammable plants: Contact your

local state forester, county extension offi ce or landscape specialist for plant information.

Thin tree and brush cover.Dispose of slash and debris 

 left from thinning.

Remove dead limbs, leaves 

 and other litter•••

Maintain greenbelt, irrigate if needed.Mow dry grass and weeds.

••

Stack 

fi rewood away 

 from home.•

South Dakota Department of Agriculture - Wildland Fire Suppres

CREATING AN EFFECTIVE DEFENSIBLE SPACE
Tree Care: Prune trees and non-fl owering shrubs in late winter/early spring before they break dormancy. If needed, apply 

repellents and barriers (horticultural oils, “tanglefoot”) according to the label. Mulch out to the drip line.Manicured Lawn Care: Apply pre-emergent herbicides in early spring, before weeds begin growth. Aerate, power rake, and fertilize lawns in May. Mow to no less than 2 1⁄2 to 3-inch height to stimulate good root development. De-thatch if thatch accumulation exceeds 1⁄2 inch.Warm-Season Grass Ground Cover: Mow to a 3-inch height and remove residue if necessary. Controlled burning may be an option if site, conditions, and ordinances allow. You may spot treat cool-season grasses and weeds with glyphosate herbicide, only if warm-season grasses are still dormant (not green, generally done in April). Ground covers are generally not fertilized.Cool-Season Grass Ground Cover: Mow to 3-inch height. Consider appropriate herbicides, or hand dig troublesome weeds. Ground covers are generally not fertilized. Prairie Planting: Before grasses have signifi cant growth (April), cut to a 3 to 4-inch height and remove residue. Controlled 

burning may be an option if site, conditions, and ordinances allow. This would be a good time to add additional seed or plants to target areas, and to spot spray or remove perennial weeds, if desired.Gardening: Start transplants indoors in late winter/early spring. Plant/transplant frost-tolerant plants, seeds, and seedlings in April-May; all others when the danger of frost is past (May-June). Divide and transplant fall-fl owering perennials.Compost vegetative trash to reduce volume and recycle nutrients back into the soil. Do not compost grass clippings that contain herbicide residues!Pressurize and inspect all zones of an automatic watering system.

“TO DO” LIST

41

Spring...

Living Landscapes in South Dakota: A GUIDE TO NATIVE PLANTSCAPING

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lan
Manicured Lawn Care: Fertilize around Labor Day. Sod or seed new lawns before September 10. If starting from seed, use 

hydro-mulch or a germination blanket to reduce weed competition and ensure good germination. Do not use straw. Prairie Planting: Enjoy the fall colors which seem to change daily. Collect seed for future plantings. Leave the residue standing over winter and watch birds feeding on the seed, and the frost and snow adding their accents.Divide and transplant spring-fl owering perennials. Dig bulbs for winter storage.Watering: Water landscape plants deeply before freeze-up for good establishment and winter survival. Mulch wherever possible to reduce water loss.Trees and shrubs: Prune any damaged branches. Transplant new trees. Apply repellents and barriers to reduce animal damage. Mulch out to drip line.Weed control: September is one of the best months to apply herbicides for controlling most persistent perennial weeds. Be careful to follow the label.Drain and blow out irrigation systems.Provide snow fencing on windward side of landscape plantings for winter protection.

42

Summer...

Watering: Water plants in early morning, according to plant needs. Water deeply, uniformly, and infrequently, at a slow rate toreduce runoff potential. Do not over-water! Mulch where appropriate to reduce water consumption. Tree Care: Prune spring-fl owering shrubs just after blooms are fi nished.

Harmful Insects: Control aphids and mites with insecticidal soaps to spare benefi cial insects and provide long-term pest 

control. Do not use pesticides unless insect threshold levels warrant it.Weed Control: Keep ahead of weeds by mowing and hand-pulling if possible. Use herbicides sparingly and according to label recommendations.Mulching: Reduces water consumption, improves the soil structure and fertility, prevents weed growth, and protects against temperature extremes.Manicured Lawn Care: Mow frequently. Remove no more than 1/3 of the leaf at one time. Set mower to 2 1⁄2 to 3 inch height, and keep blades sharp! Mow higher during hot, dry spells to induce deeper rooting. Follow watering instructions above!Warm-Season or Cool-Season Grass Ground Cover: Generally no watering is needed unless you want to extend the green period due to drought or species seasonality. Mow to suit your taste, generally once or twice on the warm season, and 3 or 4 times on the cool season, or forget mowing and enjoy the attractive seed stalks. The birds and butterfl ies will appreciate it.

Prairie Planting: Observe the natural beauty of species diversity; no mowing, or fertilizing, or watering to spoil the day! Consider keeping a notebook to record individual plant information such as: fl owering dates, colors, number of blooms or seed 

stalks, pollinators attracted, favorite plants, seed or fruit ripening, and color changes. Occasional hand-weeding of unwanted plants is always timely. Take lots of pictures! 

Fall...

Additional information on the above topics is also available from: Natural Resources Conservation Service, South Dakota Association of Conservation Districts, SExtension Service, and the South Dakota Resource Conservation and Forest Division.

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Com

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“The U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) prohibits discrimination in all its programs and activities on the basis of race, color, national origin, age, disability, and 

where applicable, sex, marital status, familial status, parental status, religion, sexual orientation, genetic information, political beliefs, reprisal, or because all or a part of an individual’s income is derived from any public assistance program. (Not all prohibited bases apply to all programs.) Persons with disabilities who require alternative means for communication of program information (Braille, large print, audiotape, etc.) should contact USDA’s TARGET Center at (202) 720-2600 (voice and TDD). To fi le a complaint of discrimination write to USDA, Director, Offi ce of Civil Rights, 1400 Independence Avenue, S.W., Washington, D.C. 20250-9410 or call (800) 795-3272 (voice) or (202) 720-6382 (TDD). USDA is an equal opportunity provider and employer.”

Design and Illustration:Illustrations on pages 3, 5, 7, and 33 by Jim Hanson, Landscape Architect, Hanson Design Associates, Fargo, NDIllustration on page 22 modifi ed from original by Mary Myers, USDA-NRCS, MontanaSources of illustrations adapted from other publications are noted with illustrations.Concept of publication tailored after Living Landscapes in North Dakota, USDA Natural Resources Conservation Service, North Dakota, and Creating Native Landscapes in the Northern Great Plains and Rocky Mountains, USDA Natural Resources Conservation Service, MontanaPhotography:Cover photo and inset of small building:Deron Ruesch, Vermillion, SDBack cover: Mark Brannen, Huron, SDLarry Allain, USDA-NRCS PLANTS DatabaseLyndon Anderson, Prairie Journalwww.prairiejournal.comMark Brand, University of Connecticut Plant DatabaseKim Brannen, Huron, SDMark Brannen, Huron, SDMike Haddock, Kansas State Universitywww.lib.ksu.edu/wildfl owerColette Kessler, Pierre, SDJ.S. Peterson, USDA-NRCS PLANTS Database

(Photography cont.)John Randall, The Nature ConservancyDeron Ruesch, Vermillion, SDEleanor Saulys, Connecticut Botanical SocietyAl Schneider, www.swcoloradowildfl owers.comJoan Sieler, Bismarck, NDGregg Thompson, Association of Metro Soil & Water Conservation Districts, MinnesotaDenver Public Library,Western History CollectionNorth Dakota State UniversitySouth Dakota Department of Agriculture,Wildland Fire Suppression DivisionSouth Dakota State University, Cooperative State Research Education and Extension ServiceAll other photos are courtesy of USDA Natural Resources Conservation Service unless otherwise noted.References:At Home with Xeriscape, Xeriscape Colorado, Denver Water, Denver, CONatural Resources Conservation Service, Field Offi ce Technical Guide 

Sections 1, 2, and 42005 Minnesota Stormwater Manual, Version 1.0South Dakota Department of Agriculture, Resource Conservation and Forestry Division

(RefereSouth AgriculDivisioUSDA Rain GHomeoUSDA-South College SciencUS FisFIREWNRCS BismarOther ConseLandscNative Any meinformaimply eAdditioobtaineResouoffi ce lUS GoAgriculFor addor permit, contUSDA Conse200 FoHuron, 605-35

Stan BoltzRangeland Management SpecialistJeff HemenwayConservation AgronomistJeff McGuirePublic Affairs Specialist / EditorDan ShurtliffSoil ScientistDana VaillancourtCultural Resources SpecialistShaun VickersResource ConservationistKevin WegenkeGIS SpecialistGreg YappResource ConservationistAbout this PublicationContributors:USDA Natural Resources Conservation Service:Developed in Cooperation with:North Dakota USDA Natural Resources Conservation ServiceFunding Provided by:USDA Natural Resources Conservation Service