Determining Thermal Capacitance for Protected Area 

Network Design in Palau 

NOAA Technical Memorandum CRCP 12 
CITATION: 

Skirving, W.J., S.F. Heron, C.R. Steinberg, C. McLean, B.A.A. Parker, C.M. Eakin, M.L. Heron, 

A.E. Strong, and L.F. Arzayus. 2010. Determining Thermal Capacitance for Protected Area 

Network Design in Palau. Silver Spring, MD: NOAA Coral Reef Conservation Program. NOAA 

Technical Memorandum CRCP 12. 317 pp. 

AUTHOR AFFLIATIONS: 

1

NOAA/NESDIS Coral Reef Watch, Silver Spring, MD, USA 

2

Australian Institute of Marine Science, Townsville, QLD, Australia 

3

Australian Coastal Ocean Radar Network, James Cook University, QLD, Australia 

4

I.M. Systems Group, Rockville, MD, USA 

5

NOAA/OAR Office of Ocean Exploration and Research, Silver Spring, MD, USA 

FOR MORE INFORMATION: 

For more information about this report or to request a copy, please contact NOAA’s Coral Reef 

Conservation Program at 301-713-3155 or write to: NOAA Coral Reef Conservation Program; 

NOAA/NOS/OCRM; 1305 East West Highway; Silver Spring, MD 20910 or visit 

www.coralreef.noaa.gov.

DISCLAIMER: 

This publication does not constitute an endorsement of any commercial product or intend to be 

an opinion beyond scientific or other results obtained by the National Oceanic and Atmospheric 

Administration (NOAA). No reference shall be made to NOAA, or this publication furnished by 

NOAA, in any advertising or sales promotion which would indicate or imply that NOAA 

recommends or endorses a proprietary product mentioned herein, or which has as its purpose an 

interest to cause directly or indirectly the advertised product to be used or purchased because of 

this publication. 

Cover photograph courtesy of Dr. William J. Skirving. 
Determining Thermal Capacitance for Protected Area 

Network Design in Palau 

Authors: 

William J. Skirving1

Scott F. Heron1

Craig R. Steinberg2

Cary McLean2

Britt-Anne A. Parker1,4 

C. Mark Eakin1

Mal L. Heron3

Alan E. Strong1

Luis F. Arzayus5

National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration 

In cooperation with the Australian Institute of Marine Science and 

The Nature Conservancy. 

January 2010 

 NOAA Technical Memorandum CRCP 12 

United States Department of National Oceanic and National Ocean Service 

Commerce Atmospheric Administration 

Gary Locke Dr. Jane Lubchenco David Kennedy 

Secretary Administrator Acting Assistant Administrator 
Acknowledgements 

NOAA would like to thank its partners in this project, the Australian Institute of Marine Science (AIMS) 

and The Nature Conservancy (TNC), without whom this project would not have been possible. 

There are many individuals who contributed to the success of this project. The field work had many 

helpers, so thanks go to: Debbie, Kyle and Luke McLean; the team at the Palau International Coral Reef 

Center (PICRC), in particular Steven Victor; Pat Colin and his team at the Coral Reef Research 

Foundation (CRRF); David Hinchley, Andrew Smith and the rest of the Palau TNC team; and the many 

various departments of the Palau Federal and Koror State Governments, with special thanks to Andrew 

Bauman. Thanks also to Bob Richmond from the University of Guam for loaning us a couple of current 

meters. Thanks to the NOAA National Ocean Service (NOS) team who worked very closely with us to 

produce the satellite derived bathymetry and thanks to Joe Metzger from Naval Research Laboratory 

(NRL) for helping with the low-frequency currents. Special thanks to Jessica Pejsa for her assistance in 

the administration of this project. Lastly, while NOAA and AIMS were the major sources of funds for this 

project, this work could not have been undertaken without a significant injection of funds from the 

Michael and Andrea Banks Nature Fund via The Nature Conservancy. 

iv 
Determining Thermal Capacitance for Protected Area Network 

Design in Palau
 

NOAA Technical Memorandum CRCP 12 

Table of Contents 

Acknowledgements ........................................................................................................................ iv 

Table of Contents.............................................................................................................................v 

Table of Figures ............................................................................................................................. vi 

Table of Tables ............................................................................................................................. vii 

Executive Summary ..................................................................................................................... viii 

Introduction......................................................................................................................................1 

Causes of Mass Coral Bleaching In Palau .......................................................................................2 

Mass Coral Bleaching...................................................................................................................2 

Bleaching Weather .......................................................................................................................2 

Physical Processes and Spatial Variability of SST During a Bleaching Event ...............................3 

Effects of Hydrodynamic Mixing .................................................................................................3 

The Physics of Ocean Heat Content and Distribution ..................................................................4 

Insolation...................................................................................................................................4 

Absorption.................................................................................................................................4 

Dynamic Mixing by Currents ....................................................................................................5 

Mixing due to Wind Stress ........................................................................................................5 

Mixing due to Wave Breaking ..................................................................................................6
 

Stratification of Ocean Water ....................................................................................................7 

Hydrodynamic Modeling for a Bleaching Event ..........................................................................8 

Constructing a Model for Palau .......................................................................................................9 

Hydrodynamic Data Collection ....................................................................................................9 

The Hydrodynamic Model ..........................................................................................................10 

Bathymetry ..............................................................................................................................11 

Low-Frequency Circulation ....................................................................................................12 

Tidal Elevation ........................................................................................................................15 

Other Defined Parameters .......................................................................................................15 

Output......................................................................................................................................15 

Vertical Temperature Profile .........................................................................................................21 

Modeling Heat-stress Patterns During a Bleaching Event .............................................................23 

Potential Use as a Planning Tool................................................................................................24 

Recommendations..........................................................................................................................26 

Bibliography ..................................................................................................................................28
 

Appendix 1: Palau Oceanographic Data Array Report ..................................................................31 

Appendix 2: Seasonal Variations of the Ocean Surface Circulation in the Vicinity of Palau.....283 

Appendix 3: Satellite Bathymetry Use in Numerical Models of Ocean Thermal Stress .............298 

v 
Table of Figures 

Figure 1 Accumulated thermal coral stress for Palau based on the Degree Heating Week 

(DHW) product for the period 1985 to 2004. .............................................................1 

Figure 4 Landsat image of Palau showing the Lagoon box, Malakal Harbour box, and the 

Figure 6 (a) Map of the western equatorial Pacific Ocean. (b) Schematic representation of the 

Figure 9 Time-series of sea-level measurements in Malakal Harbour used in the 

Figure 10 Scatter-plot of Malakal Tide Gauge sea-level values and model output versus 

Figure 12 Sea-surface elevation, referenced to the long-term mean sea-level, at model time 0.5 

Figure 13 Scaled current speed and direction at the location of instrument A8 (Lighthouse 

Figure 14 Scaled current speed and direction at the location of instrument A13 (Toachel Mid). 

Figure 15 Scaled model output against measured current speed for location A8 (Lighthouse 

Figure 16 Plot of the heat balance parameters: incoming total short wave radiation, longwave 

Figure 19 Final output from the Palau model of thermal capacitance, expressed as surface 

Figure 2 Average SST for 16-18th February for the Southern GBR region. .............................3 

Figure 3 Horizontal surge velocity versus depth for a typical wind wave. ................................7 

Rock Islands box.......................................................................................................10 

Figure 5 (a) Final bathymetry dataset for model domain. (b) Bathymetry data to a depth of 50 

m, showing lagoon features. .....................................................................................12 

surface features reported in literature. ......................................................................13 

Figure 7 Surface features described by Heron et al. (2006).. ...................................................14 

Figure 8 Schematic diagram of the seasonal variation in the currents around Palau. ..............14 

hydrodynamic model.. ..............................................................................................16 

measured values ........................................................................................................17 

Figure 11 Surface velocity vectors at model time 0.5 days........................................................18 

days. ..........................................................................................................................19 

Channel).. ..................................................................................................................20
 

...................................................................................................................................21 

Channel).. ..................................................................................................................22
 

outgoing, sensible heat flux, and Latent Heat Flux. .................................................22 

Figure 17 Development of the surface heat layer over a 14-day period. ...................................23 

Figure 18 Vertical temperature profile on the 14th day of modeling. ........................................24 

cooling degree-weeks. ..............................................................................................25 

vi 
Table of Tables 

Table 1 Correlations between the elevations at the Malakal Harbour Tide Gauge grid point 

and the eastern boundary grid point for varying time lags. ......................................17 

vii 
Executive Summary 

During the latter half of 1998, Palau experienced unprecedented bleaching that resulted in significant 

mortality and the loss of significant proportions of one of the few remaining pristine coral reefs in the 

world. Prior to 1998 and since 1998, little to no coral bleaching has been observed. These observations 

were consistent with data from the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) Coral 

Reef Watch (CRW) satellite Degree Heating Week (DHW) product. The DHW satellite product clearly 

shows that the 1998 accumulated thermal stress easily surpassed the critical DHW equals 4 threshold for 

coral bleaching and is the only year to have done so since 1985. This is consistent with field observations 

of bleaching. 

The Nature Conservancy (TNC) and the Palau Government joined forces to design and implement a 

protected areas network (PAN) for Palau’s coral reef ecosystem. A PAN is best described as a series of 

marine protected areas (MPAs). They recognized bleaching as being potentially one of the major future 

threats to the Palau coral reef ecosystem. However, with only one poorly documented bleaching event on 

record, it is difficult to gain enough experience to be able to build resilience to these events into the PAN. 

In parallel with this effort to design a PAN for Palau, NOAA and the Australian Institute of Marine 

Science (AIMS) were collaborating on the use of hydrodynamic models to predict heat stress during a 

bleaching event. In 2003, it was decided to combine these efforts and for NOAA and AIMS to produce a 

heat stress model for Palau for use in the PAN planning as an attempt to identify factors that might confer 

resilience to climate change. 

For the model to be constructed, NOAA and AIMS needed: 

1)	 The bathymetry of Palauan waters: Due to a lack of available conventional data, NOAA 

derived the bathymetry from a combination of Landsat data and in situ bathymetry transects 

taken with a depth sounder from a small boat. This produced a chart with 250 meter 

horizontal resolution and precision of ±1 meter vertically. 

2)	 Low-frequency currents: A combination of the Navy Research Laboratory’s Layered Ocean 

Model and NOAA’s Ocean Surface Current Analyses – Real time product were used to 

determine the seasonal low-frequency currents around Palau. 

3)	 High-frequency currents: Tide gauge data collected in and around Palau was used to 

prescribe the sea surface elevation changes that induce tidal currents. Field data collected 

over a period of 5 months were used to calibrate and validate the currents. 

4)	 Vertical temperature profile: This was derived by modeling a column of water with 

homogeneous temperature and applying a diurnal cycle of solar radiation for a period of two 

weeks. 

5)	 Validation data: These included an intensive field deployment of current meters, temperature 

loggers, salinity loggers and tide gauges. This deployment has been documented in the Palau 

Oceanographic Array Data Report (Appendix 1). 

Using the bathymetry, low-frequency currents and sea surface elevation as boundary conditions, a high 

resolution (250 m) two-dimensional hydrodynamic model of the Palau region was developed using the 

Princeton Ocean Model. This provided currents for the development of a heat stress map. The field 

validation data were used to assess the accuracy of the model and showed that the model performed 

remarkably well, given the extremely large range of currents driven by tides within Palau. 

The Simpson and Hunter (1974) parameterization was used to distinguish between stratified and wellmixed water by combining currents with bathymetric data. This information was then used in conjunction 

viii 
with the vertical temperature profile to determine the reduction in surface temperature due to mixing and 

thus the likely spatial distribution of sea surface temperature during a bleaching event. In fact, this model 

is best interpreted as a measure of thermal capacitance. The warmer regions in the model represent areas 

with a low thermal capacitance meaning that a given amount of solar energy heats these regions faster 

than the cooler regions in the model, which have a high thermal capacitance and resist temperature 

change. 

The result of this is that the cooler regions in this model represent regions of mild temperatures (i.e., 

normally experiencing less thermal stress) whereas the warmer regions represent those areas in the model 

that will experience more extreme temperatures (i.e., greater thermal stress). The final product was an 

accumulation of sea surface temperature reductions over a tidal cycle (one month). Those regions shown 

as cool were most likely to experience greatest cooling at the surface due to mixing and hence represent 

the regions with high thermal capacitance. This provides the organisms that live there with a mild climate, 

characterized by relatively small temperature ranges. In contrast, the warm regions portray those locations 

that likely experience little to no mixing and hence represent low thermal capacitance. The organisms that 

live in these regions experience an extreme climate, characterized by relatively large temperature ranges. 

A chart of this type can be extremely useful when designing a PAN. In general, most PANs are currently 

designed so as to provide protection to “representative bioregions,” meaning that, as much as possible, 

every type of bioregion within the ecosystem of interest should be equally represented within the PAN. 

However, it is important to recognize that an ecosystem is not only made up of different species but also 

of organisms within each species that can have unique physiological characteristics. When designing a 

PAN, it is relatively straight forward to map bioregions on the basis of species composition; however the 

genetic (phenotypic) variability within each species is not represented by these techniques. With respect 

to a changing climate, the phenotypes that result in varied physiological characteristics are likely to 

correspond to different thermal capacitances throughout the region. While we may not know what these 

characteristics are, the relevant characteristics for resilience against climate change are more likely to be 

better protected if representative samples of each thermal region within the thermal capacitance map are 

protected. 

The innovative techniques and methodologies presented in this report represent the beginning of a new 

era in MPA/PAN design. To aid in the ongoing evolution of this work, a list of recommendations to 

continue the development of these techniques is provided at the end of the report. 

ix 
Introduction 

During the latter half of 1998, Palau experienced unprecedented bleaching that resulted in significant 

mortality and the loss of significant proportions of one of the few remaining pristine coral reefs in the 

world (Wilkinson 2000). Prior to 1998 and since 1998, little to no coral bleaching has been observed. 

Figure 1 is a plot of accumulated thermal stress for Palau, as measured by the National Oceanic and 

Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) Coral Reef Watch’s Degree Heating Week (DHW) satellite 

product. These data were retrospectively derived using the AVHRR Pathfinder data set (Kilpatrick et al. 

2001), and using the methodology described in Eakin et al. (2009). A DHW value of 4 or more indicates 

significant bleaching (Liu et al. 2003 and Skirving et al. 2006). Note the DHW equals 4 threshold is 

indicated by a line in Figure 1. The accumulated thermal stress in 1998 easily surpassed that mark and is 

the only year to have done so since 1985. Note also that the heat stress for 1998 lies within the latter half 

of the year, as do most of the other small peaks. 

10
 

9
 

8
 

7
 

6
 

5
 

4
 

3
 

2
 

1
 

0
 

DHW values 

1984 1986 1988 1990 1992 1994 1996 1998 2000 2002 2004
 

Date 

Figure 1 Accumulated thermal coral stress for Palau based on the Degree Heating Week (DHW) 

product derived from Pathfinder data for the period 1985 to 2004. 

The Nature Conservancy (TNC) and the Palau Government joined forces to design and implement a 

protected areas network (PAN) for Palau’s coral reef ecosystem. Punctuated by the 1998 event, they 

recognized bleaching as one of the major future threats to the Palau coral reef ecosystem. With only one 

poorly documented bleaching event to go by, it is difficult to gain enough information to build resilience 

to bleaching events into the PAN. 

1 
In parallel with the effort to design a PAN in Palau, NOAA and the Australian Institute of Marine Science 

(AIMS) were collaborating on the use of hydrodynamic models to predict heat stress during a bleaching 

event. In 2003, it was decided to combine these efforts and for NOAA and AIMS to produce a heat stress 

model for Palau for use in the PAN planning, in an attempt to include resilience to climate change. 

This report is adapted from the final report for the NOAA/AIMS/TNC collaboration on the development 

of a model that describes spatial patterns of heat stress for Palau. It includes a description of the data 

collection, a description of the hydrodynamic model, and how this model was used to derive patterns of 

heat stress for Palau. 

Causes of Mass Coral Bleaching in Palau 

Mass Coral Bleaching 

Coral bleaching is a generalized stress response by zooxanthellae and is not necessarily related to any one 

stressor (Glynn 1993). However, mass coral bleaching events are well correlated with thermal stress (e.g., 

Dennis and Wicklund 1993; Drollet et al. 1994; Winter et al. 1998; Hoegh-Guldberg 1999; McField 

1999; and Berkelmans 2002). High temperatures damage the photosynthetic pathway, which leads to a 

breakdown of the photosynthetic process (Jones et al. 1998). After the thermal threshold is surpassed, the 

normally robust photosystem can be overwhelmed by significant amounts of light, eventually causing the 

formation of reactive oxygen molecules that destabilize the relationship between corals and their algal 

symbionts (Hoegh-Guldberg 1999; Downs et al. 2002). Therefore, although light is an important factor in 

the coral bleaching story, it is not normally a stressor until water temperatures have exceeded certain 

limits (Berkelmans 2002). 

Bleaching Weather 

Skirving and Guinotte (2001) investigated the origin of the hot water that caused the Great Barrier Reef 

(GBR) to bleach during 1998. They noted that a combination of low wind speed and neap tides was 

correlated with generally high sea surface temperatures (SST). They also noted that, during these periods 

of higher sea surface temperature, there were correlations between shallow bathymetry and locally-cooler 

SST, and between deep water and locally-warmer SST. 

These correlations led them to conclude that the hot water was a result of in situ heating from solar 

radiation, and that the effect of this heating was amplified by a lack of hydrodynamic mixing. The idea 

that SST anomalies leading to coral bleaching are mostly a result of in situ heating has since been 

supported by many field observations (Wilkinson 1998, 2000; Berkelmans et al. 2004; Bird et al. 2004; 

Skirving et al. 2004). 

Very few mass coral bleaching events in the world are a result of advected hot water (Skirving 2004). 

Little to no wind, clear sunny skies and weak ocean currents characterize these events. Most observed 

bleaching events incorporate at least a few weeks of these conditions. Climate is likely to modulate the 

frequency of these weather events, but more research is necessary to investigate direct links between 

climate states (e.g., ENSO), in situ heating, and coral bleaching. 

2 
Physical Processes and Spatial Variability of SST during a Bleaching Event 

Effects of Hydrodynamic Mixing 

During a bleaching event, spatial patterns of SST are quite complex and have a scale of hundreds to tensof-thousands of meters. Figure 2, adapted from Skirving and Guinotte (2001), is an SST image of the 

southern Great Barrier Reef during the 1998 bleaching event. It clearly shows the high complexity that 

existed in the spatial patterns of SST during this event. 

Figure 2	 Average SST for 16-18th February for the Southern GBR region. Reefs and bleaching are 

also depicted (adapted from Skirving and Guinotte 2001). 

Given the existence of bright sunny skies (i.e., no cloud) and given that at reef scales, solar radiation is 

homogeneous in space, hydrodynamic mixing is the most likely mechanism that could create such a 

complex SST pattern (Skirving and Guinotte 2001; Skirving 2004; Skirving et al. 2004). Solar energy is 

mainly absorbed within the top few meters of the surface of the sea. As warmer water is more buoyant 

than cooler water of the same salinity, during a bleaching event the warmer water will remain at the top of 

the water column unless there is a mechanical process to mix it down. 

There are four mechanisms that can vertically mix the water column: wind, low-frequency currents (e.g., 

East Australian current, Gulf Steam, etc.), high-frequency currents (e.g., tides) and swell waves. Given 

that winds are typically low during a bleaching event, swell waves and currents are the only mechanisms 

3 
 

available for vertical mixing. Since the water at the surface is warmer than the water below it, any vertical 

mixing will induce cooling at the surface and warming at depth. The deeper the mixing, the cooler the 

surface will become. Therefore, during a bleaching event, patterns of SST are related to a combination of 

the depth of water and strength of the currents (Skirving et al. 2004; Heron and Skirving 2004). Waves 

can also mix the water column; however, during most bleaching events there is little to no wind to create 

wind-waves for mixing. Waves can be a factor where reefs are exposed to swell generated well outside 

the region. 

The Physics of Ocean Heat Content and Distribution 

During daylight hours there is a net flow of heat into the ocean. The insolation flux is in the form of 

electromagnetic radiation that is absorbed in the upper layer of the ocean. The resulting warm layer may 

be mixed down through the water column by dynamic processes driven by currents and waves. The 

outflow of heat through the surface dominates at night. It is driven by energy loss due to latent heat and 

heat loss via conduction as a result of the temperature difference between the sea and the air. This 

temperature difference will also drive heat loss via radiation, and during a bleaching event with low 

winds, this will often be the dominant component of the night-time heat loss. The combination of these 

fluxes gives a diurnal variation that sets the climatological mean for the sea surface temperature. When 

the fluxes change, temperature can vary significantly from the climatological mean and produce 

conditions stressful to corals. Specific physical processes affecting the flux and distribution of heat in the 

ocean include the characteristics of the incident solar radiation, the absorption in the water column, and 

mixing processes. 

Insolation 

Solar radiation is the primary source of ocean heat content. The solar radiation spectrum at the bottom of 

the atmosphere peaks in the visible range of wavelengths and has absorption bands due to the composition 

of the atmosphere. The main control on the energy arriving at the sea surface is exerted by the aerosol and 

water vapor content of the atmosphere. As such, the type of air mass above a coral reef will have 

considerable influence over the amount of surface solar radiation. A clear sky with relatively low 

humidity and low aerosol content, such as can occur over the Red Sea and parts of the Great Barrier Reef, 

will provide maximum insolation. This is reflected in the extreme SSTs often recorded in these regions. 

Conversely, regions that experience dust storms, high humidity, and cloudy conditions will experience 

lower insolation with the same sun angles, resulting in lower SSTs and SST variability. 

Absorption 

The absorptive properties of seawater define the depth-distribution of solar energy that is transferred 

directly to the water. A good model for the absorption of solar energy in the upper layer of the ocean is 

the exponential 

I = I0 exp(−αz) (1) 

where Io is the radiation intensity incident at the surface, α is an absorption coefficient equal to the inverse 

of the e-folding depth, and z is the depth. Equation (1) works for a single absorbing constituent in the 

water, and for an absorption coefficient which has no variation with depth. This is often not the case. For 

example, if there is buoyant biomass then there will be an enhanced absorption layer near the surface; 

also, turbidity due to resuspension of benthic sediments is usually greater at the bottom of the water 

column, also enhancing absorption. Under these conditions the absorption has to be calculated by 

integration across layers of water. At the bottom of the i

th thin layer of thickness Δz the intensity is Ii 

where 

4 
 

 

 

 

 

I = I (1−α (z )Δz)	 (2) i i−1 i i 

The intensity of solar radiation at depth zk is 

k 

I z = I ( ) k	 0 ∏(1−αi ( ) zi Δz) (3) 

i=1 

Typically, α ≈ 0.5 and solar insolation is effective in heating the upper two meters of the water column. If 

there is no vertical mixing in the water column, then corals within the first two meters from the surface 

may be susceptible to heat stress and bleaching. 

Dynamic Mixing by Currents 

Vertical mixing of the water column alters the distribution of heat. Ocean currents have a tendency to 

induce mixing under most conditions. In shallow water where coral reefs are most-often located, we can 

expect a boundary layer shear flow due to friction at the bottom of the water column. This is the basic 

response to ocean currents onto which we can add the effects of surface wind stress, stratification and 

wave-induced mixing. The only laminar flow is found in the viscous layer at the bottom, and eddy 

diffusion prevails throughout the water column. 

Mixing due to currents is driven by the vertical shear in the horizontal velocity of the water in the column 

and is carried out by eddies in the vertical plane. A commonly assumed model for the vertical eddy 

viscosity is the linear model given by 

Nz = ku H z * ( − )	 (4) 

which leads to the logarithmic bottom-friction layer 

u ⎛ H z − ⎞

u z =	 * ( ) ln ⎜ ⎟ (5) k ⎝ z0 ⎠

where z is the distance from the surface (positive downwards), H is the water depth, z0 is the thickness of 

the viscous layer, u is the friction velocity and k is the von Karman constant. *

Mixing of the vertical column due to bottom friction is strongest near the bottom where velocity shears 

are greatest. However with strong currents and shallow water this can impact the mixing of the upper 

solar heated layer. One important thing about this simple theory of mixing in the logarithmic boundary 

layer is that it gives us a reference frame for thinking about turbulent mixing in the water column when 

velocity shears are caused by other phenomena. 

Mixing due to Wind Stress 

Vertical mixing of ocean waters can also be induced by winds. Wind at the ocean surface produces 

momentum transfer to the water, and hence a wind stress velocity at the surface. The kinetic energy at the 

surface is transferred down through the column by eddy diffusion. If we assume that the vertical eddy 

viscosity is controlled by the stress at the surface and grows linearly with depth then we have a 

mathematical form similar to the bottom friction layer with 

N u z ′	 (6) z 

′ = k * 

5 
 

 

 

 

where z is the distance from the water surface (positive downwards), and u′ is the stress velocity at the *

surface. 

The actual eddy viscosity in the water column is a combination of Nz 

′ and Nz ; the velocity profile is a 

combination of the bottom boundary layer and the surface boundary layer. This leads to complications in 

numerical modeling of the currents and various schemes have been suggested for combining the eddy 

viscosity terms. It is clear that the velocity shears induced by wind at the surface of the water have a 

significant role in the vertical mixing of the surface solar heated layer. 

Mixing due to Wave Breaking 

Ocean waters are also vertically mixed by breaking waves. In the open ocean, most of the wave energy is 

conserved and not lost to mixing processes. It is only when the waves become non-linear that they lose 

energy to turbulence. It is the process of wave breaking that dominates the transfer of wave energy to 

mixing. At reef fronts the transfer is almost complete with only a remnant of wave energy being reflected 

back to the ocean, some of it transferring to a forward bore in the breaking wave, and a significant 

fraction going into turbulence at the breaker location. For a propagating surface gravity wave, most of the 

energy is in the upper part of the water column. This is illustrated in Figure 3 where we show the depth 

profile of the horizontal surge velocity for a wave with 1 m amplitude (trough to crest) and 6 s period. 

This is a typical oceanic wind wave and the graph shows how the velocity decreases rapidly with depth. If 

there is any non-linearity or breaking then the associated energy becomes available for mixing. 

The kinetic energy density for a wave with amplitude a , angular frequency ω and water depth d is 

given by 

1 2 2 KE z ( ) = ρ (u + w ) (7) 2 

where u and ware the horizontal and vertical depth-dependent particle velocities, respectively, averaged 

over one cycle: 

2 2 2 2 

2 π agk cosh (k d( + z)) u = (8) 

ω2 cosh 2 ( ) kd 

2 2 2 

2 πagk sinh 2 (k d( + z)) w = (9) 

ω2 cosh 2 ( ) kd 

This wave energy is generally not available for mixing on shelf waters. However, when a wave 

encounters a reef front it loses most of its energy and provides a dominant mixing effect for the solar 

heated layer near the surface. This effect is so dominant that it is difficult to think there would be coral 

bleaching on the windward side of a reef except in flat-calm conditions. Waves breaking on the reef front 

also send pulses of water forward across the reef flat. This pulsing bore is also well-mixed and we would 

expect mitigation of bleaching on the parts of the reef flat that are flushed with this water. The physical 

processes of wave breaking on the reef front and the subsequent pulsing of water across the reef flat have 

a strong mitigating effect on coral bleaching. 

6 
Figure 3	 Horizontal surge velocity versus depth for a typical wind wave. Most of the wave energy 

is in the top few meters. The vertical surge velocity profile follows the same curve near 

the surface but departs and goes to zero at the bottom of the water column, set to 40 m 

here. 

Stratification of Ocean Water 

Horizontal stratification imposes an impediment to mixing, and therefore heat transfer. This is due to the 

potential energy of the stratification. The Richardson number compares the energy of stratification and 

the turbulent kinetic energy and provides us with an index to measure the severity of the stratification. 

Under high Richardson number conditions there is likely to be a strong vertical shear at the boundary 

between the stratified layers and the turbulent kinetic energy works to erode the stratified layer. Following 

the approach of Simpson and Hunter (1974), de Silva Samarasinghe (1989), and others, we consider the 

rate of loss of potential energy to be equal to some small fraction per second,σ , of the turbulent kinetic 

energy as 

(PE KE ) ( ) t 

σ

∂ = − ∂ (10) 

which can be written as 

7 
 

 

∂ h h ∂u 

2

⎛ ⎞ {∫ gz (ρ ρ ) dz} +σ ∫ N ⎜ ⎟ − ρ dz = 0 (11) z ∂t 0 0 ⎝ ⎠ ∂z

per unit area of the water column, where h is the water depth, ρ is the mean water density in the column 

of depth h, and Nz is the vertical eddy viscosity. Simpson and Hunter (1974) found σ = 0.0037 s-1 in the 

Irish Sea; Hearn (1985) derived a similar value. 

Stratification is an important phenomenon for coral bleaching. When the sun heats the surface layer, the 

density of that layer is reduced and there is an inherent stability caused by the density stratification, which 

is conducive to further heating of this layer. Current shears are likely to be enhanced at the boundary 

between stratified layers and equations (10) and (11) become important in estimating the impact of the 

solar heating. If there is wind stress driving currents in the warm surface layer then there is likely to be an 

enhanced mixing at the boundary of the stratification. Thus, while the formation of stratification by solar 

heating of the upper layer is conducive to shallow-water coral bleaching, it can also set up strong current 

shear zones which can assist mixing. The effects of solar heating and turbulent mixing are finely balanced 

here. 

Another form of stratification is the thin surface layer that is evaporatively cooled by water vapor flux 

from the ocean to the atmosphere. This is a thin layer of the order of millimeters, with a regeneration time 

constant of several seconds if it is destroyed, for example by a micro-breaker. This layer is unstable in the 

water column and promotes mixing. When we put this micro-layer mixing in the context of solar 

insolation on the order of a meter depth below the surface it is quickly lost in the scales of energy transfer 

and penetration depth. A more significant effect of the “skin layer” is that it is this layer that provides the 

infrared radiation used by satellite radiometers to measure the surface temperature. The skin layer reduces 

the brightness temperature by up to about half a degree (perhaps more in tropical waters). This is not a 

random error, but is a variable offset in the measured temperature that depends on the nature of the skin 

layer. The skin layer has little impact on coral bleaching because it is so thin that it does not contain much 

heat energy. 

Hydrodynamic Modeling for a Bleaching Event 

As each of the physical processes discussed above influences the transfer of heat into and within the water 

column, they can thus affect the potential for coral bleaching to occur. As mentioned previously, winds 

are effectively absent during a mass bleaching event, which leaves swell waves and currents as the only 

mechanisms capable of altering the spatial patterns of SST. Swell waves are very effective mixers where 

they exist and can mix the water when they impinge on a reef. However, they are not capable of cooling 

an entire reef and will not be available for every reef since not all reefs are exposed to swell waves and 

not all bleaching events have swell. 

This leaves currents as the dominant mechanism for altering spatial patterns of SST. The vertical 

temperature profile is determined by heating from above via incoming solar radiation and cooling from 

below via upwelling, breaking internal waves, and cold-water intrusions. Currents then mix water 

vertically via bottom friction and 3D mixing behind reefs and islands. Advection can provide horizontal 

mixing associated with these currents in some situations. The spatial pattern of mixing interacts with the 

spatial pattern of vertical temperature profiles to create patterns of low to high SST during a bleaching 

event. 

8 
Constructing a Model for Palau 

In order to produce a heat stress model for Palau for use in PAN planning, the following information was 

needed: 

a.	 Calibration and Validation Data for the model: Due to a dearth of hydrodynamic data for the 

Palau region, almost all data needed to be acquired within this project. 

b.	 The Bathymetry of Palauan waters: Due to a lack of hydrographic data, NOAA derived the 

bathymetry from a combination of Landsat data and bathymetry transects taken with a depth 

sounder from a small boat. This produced a chart with 250 meter horizontal resolution and a 

root mean square (rms) precision of 1 meter vertically. 

c.	 Low-frequency currents: A combination of the Navy Research Laboratory’s (NRL) Layered 

Ocean Model (NLOM) and NOAA’s Ocean Surface Current Analyses – Real time (OSCAR) 

product were used to derive the seasonal low-frequency currents around Palau. 

d.	 High-frequency currents: Tide gauge data collected in and around Palau was used to 

prescribe the sea surface elevation changes that induce tidal currents. Field data collected 

over a period of 5 months were used to calibrate and validate the currents. 

e.	 Vertical temperature profile: This was derived by modeling a patch of water with a 

homogeneous temperature and applying a diurnal cycle of solar radiation for a period of two 

weeks. 

Hydrodynamic Data Collection 

An extensive study of oceanographic parameters in Palauan waters was undertaken during the period 

August 2003 – January 2004. The timing of the deployment was selected to coincide with the time of year 

during which bleaching events have been observed. Sixty-two instruments were deployed in and near the 

Palau lagoon to record currents, temperatures, sea-levels, salinities, and weather conditions. This number 

of instruments is unusually high for a region of this size; the largess of the deployment was fueled by a 

desire to maximize coverage and the fortuitous availability of instruments from AIMS, the University of 

Guam, the Coral Reef Research Foundation in Palau, and the Palau International Coral Reef Research 

Center. The deployment is the most-extensive in situ ocean study ever performed in Palau. The data have 

been made freely available and are described in the Palau Oceanographic Array Data Report (Appendix 

1). 

For the purpose of the broader project, i.e., to study SST patterns leading to coral heat stress, the Palau 

lagoon was partitioned into three study areas; the Lagoon box, the Malakal Harbour box and the Rock 

Islands box. The extent of the Lagoon box, illustrated by the orange line in Figure 4, was primarily 

described by environmental boundaries (island or reef barriers). This suggests that the majority of water 

movement in and out of the box is through the channels at the boundaries. Hydrodynamic models of the 

lagoon circulation can be constrained at the boundaries by the measured flow through these channels. 

Current-measuring instruments were placed in the major channels; sea-level monitors were deployed on 

reef flats across the box; salinity meters were placed in an east-west transect across the lagoon; and 

temperature sensors were positioned in vertical profiles throughout the box (for details, see Appendix 1). 

The Malakal Harbour and Rock Islands boxes were defined as sub-regions of the Lagoon box, as shown 

in Figure 4. These regions, like the Lagoon box, are bounded by islands and/or reefs, again providing a 

sensible boundary for hydrodynamic models. 

These regions are of particular interest for economic, environmental, and scientific purposes. Instruments 

were deployed at the boundaries of and within each of these boxes. As for the Lagoon box, instruments 

9 
were placed at boundary locations of major water movement. Data from these will aid in future modeling 

efforts for these regions. Detailed maps of individual instrument deployments are provided in Appendix 1. 

Figure 4 Landsat image of Palau showing the Lagoon box (orange), Malakal Harbour box (red) 

and the Rock Islands box (yellow). 

All instruments were recovered with the exception of one temperature logger. Two of the instruments 

recorded data intermittently and one recorded no data due to power supply difficulties. Despite these 

setbacks, the dataset from the recovered instruments provided a broad description of Palauan waters and 

proved to be invaluable during the modeling phase of this project. 

The Hydrodynamic Model 

The hydrodynamic model was designed specifically to produce a map of accumulated heat stress for 

Palau. However, the output may also be useful for other applications; e.g., particle tracking and 

connectivity modeling. The model code, commonly known as the Princeton Ocean Model 

(POM) (described in Blumberg and Mellor 1987), was employed for this study. POM is a terrainfollowing (σ-coordinate) model with a staggered horizontal finite-difference scheme (Arakawa C-grid). A 

rectilinear horizontal grid was selected for the Palau model. 

10 
For the heat-stress map, the desired output from the hydrodynamic model is a two-dimensional map of 

time-varying currents. To achieve this, a suite of initial- and boundary- conditions was required to drive 

the model calculations. As the region of interest for Palau consists entirely of islands surrounded by open 

ocean, the extremities of the model domain were “open” – i.e., there were no land boundaries. Open 

boundaries require the definition of parameters to constrain the flow. Most numerical model applications 

have at least one or two “closed” boundaries; this simplifies the model setup and also aids in accurately 

constraining the model output. Four open boundaries presented a challenge to the modeling process and 

increased the importance of precision in defining the constraints. The steps involved in determining 

model bathymetry, investigating low-frequency circulation in the region, and modeling of tidal variations, 

are described in detail below. 

Bathymetry 

An accurate description of bathymetry is paramount for the success of a hydrodynamic model. The 

desired horizontal resolution for the model of Palau was around 250 m so as to resolve many of the 

topographic features of the region while maintaining sufficient computational efficiency. 

Nautical charts of Palau, produced by the U.S. Defense Mapping Agency, were acquired to provide 

reference depth data. These charts were primarily based on World War II era Japanese surveys and a 1969 

U.S. survey. By virtue of the navigational purpose of the charts, the values stated are lowest-tide values 

and err towards underestimation of depth. While these provide a general shape for the Palau lagoon, the 

data were neither accurate enough, nor of sufficient spatial consistency for the model. In addition, some 

feature details may have changed during the 35 years since the most recent survey. 

Further bathymetric information for the Palau lagoon was derived from Landsat imagery. These data were 

produced by the Special Projects Office of NOAA’s National Ocean Service. The process used to derive 

estimated depth for Palau is described in Newhall and Rohmann (2003) following the technique of 

Stumpf et al. (2003). The accuracy of the estimated-depth algorithm is to within 1 m in the vertical and 

the depth limit is 20-25 m (R. Newhall, pers. comm.). The Landsat images were geo-rectified and 

mosaicked using the Universal Transverse Mercator (UTM) grid system. The image data were 

transformed to estimated depths by comparing the ratios of the satellite spectral channels. The bathymetry 

values were calibrated using in situ data and observations of benthic habitat types. Bathymetry data were 

collected within the Palau lagoon using a dual-frequency depth sounder, mounted on a 21-foot vessel, 

along transects totaling more than 300 nautical miles. The spatial resolution of Landsat imagery is 28.5 m; 

averaging across 9×9 pixels provided the desired resolution for input to the model (256.5 m). Land 

boundaries were checked and corrected manually especially in locations with narrow channels that were 

important to the water exchange, e.g., the Rock Islands. A significant portion of the lagoon was too deep 

for the satellite algorithm and, as such, a deepwater dataset was required to augment the bathymetry. 

Large-scale bathymetric data were acquired from several databases. Following the recommendation by 

Marks and Smith (2006), the data of Smith and Sandwell (1997) were selected for the region surrounding 

Palau. The depths are derived from satellite gravity data combined with ship measurements and have 

resolution of two-arc-minutes (approximately 3.7 km near the equator). The dataset was re-gridded to the 

UTM grid and interpolated in two-dimensions at the model gridpoints. The Smith and Sandwell (1997) 

interpolated data were then patched into the Landsat data where the Landsat depths were greater than 20 

m. The combination of the two datasets introduced some erroneous values where the datasets were joined. 

These values were checked and corrected manually, as were discontinuities and spikes in the combined 

data. 

11 
Following these refinements, there were three areas for which the bathymetry appeared to vary greatly 

from the navigational charts; in the western section of Kossol Passage, to the north of Ulong Island and 

the region immediately north of Peliliu. The first and second of these appeared to be due to loss of vertical 

resolution during the interpolation of the deep-water data. Faulty values were removed from the data and, 

where available, in situ measurements and navigational chart readings were inserted. The remaining 

vacant gridpoints were assigned depths by kriging the existing data, a process involving statistical 

interpolation of the data. The error to the north of Peliliu was due to an incorrect land-mask in the Landsat 

data. The waters of this region are shallow and the bottom surface type is either white sand or near-black 

seagrass. Incorrect parameterization of the bottom type causes the depth algorithm to revert to land or 

deepwater, respectively, for these cases. The bathymetric data were corrected manually using in situ 

measurements and chart readings. The final dataset has horizontal resolution of 256.5 m and is the mostaccurate, wide-scale bathymetry of Palau in existence. Figure 5 (a) and (b) illustrates the bathymetry. 

Figure 5 (a) Final bathymetry dataset for model domain. The white contour shows the land and 

barrier reef boundaries. (b) Bathymetry data to a depth of 50 m, showing lagoon 

features. 

Low-Frequency Circulation 

With bathymetry defined across the model domain, temporally-varying boundary conditions for the 

model were investigated. The first study determined low-frequency currents in the region, i.e., currents 

varying on long time-scales. Examples of these types of currents around the world include the Kuroshio, 

the Gulf Stream and the East Australian Current. A literature search was undertaken for previous studies 

of the circulation in the immediate vicinity of Palau; no such studies were found. Due to this lack of prior 

information, it was necessary to include in this project a study to determine the existence of a seasonal 

variation in the surface currents in the western equatorial Pacific. The geographical area investigated is 

shown by the dotted line in Figure 6(a). A manuscript (Heron et al. 2006) discussing the results of this 

study is included in this document as Appendix 2. The results are summarized below; see Appendix 2 for 

further details and literature references. 

Previous work in this region focused on the major currents displayed in Figure 6(b); the North Equatorial 

Current (NEC), the Mindanao Current (MC), the Kuroshio, the North Equatorial Counter-Current 

(NECC), and the Indonesian Through-Flow (ITF). Further studies investigated two major mesoscale 

12 
 

 

eddies in the region; the Mindanao Eddy (ME) and Halmahera Eddy (HE), also shown in Figure 6(b). 

These studies reported the high- and low-frequency variability of these features but none investigated 

annual patterns of the flow further to the east, near Palau. 

PALAU 

GUAM 

Figure 6 (a) Map of the western equatorial Pacific Ocean. The dotted line indicates the region 

considered in the study by Heron et al. (2006). (b) Schematic representation of the 

surface features previously reported in literature. 

Data from the Ocean Surface Currents Analysis – Real-time (OSCAR) product, TRIangle Trans-Ocean 

buoy Network (TRITON), the Joint Archive for Shipboard Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler 

(JASADCP); and output from the Naval Research Laboratory Layered Ocean Model (NLOM) and were 

examined and compared. The JASADCP data were used to validate the NLOM output. Monthly 

climatologies of the surface currents from the OSCAR and NLOM datasets were examined for seasonal 

variations. The timing of the observed seasonality in the surface currents around Palau was consistent 

with the annual variation in the surface winds from the TRITON data. The existence and variability of 

documented surface features, previously mentioned, was verified and additional features were identified 

in the study region. These are shown in Figure 7 and were named the Palau Eddy (PE), Caroline Eddy 

(CE), the Micronesia Eddy (MiE), and the Papua New Guinea Eddies (PNGE) – a family of eddies along 

the north coast of Papua New Guinea. The seasonal variation of the NECC Tail, i.e., the section east of 

135°E, was also determined and discussed. 

Low-frequency currents near Palau are driven by the major surface features; the seasonal variability of the 

currents follows that of the major features. North of Palau, the NEC varies only slightly in both 

magnitude and direction. To the south, the NECC Tail migrates seasonally and varies in magnitude; this 

significantly affects the fluid motion around Palau. The ME and HE are present throughout the year and 

vary seasonally in both extent and location. The PE exists from April to October and influences the flow 

to the east of Palau during this period. 

Figure 8 is a schematic diagram of the annual variation in the surface currents surrounding Palau. Heron 

et al. (2006) note that the low-frequency currents are weak and disordered from July to September. This 

period is consistent with the timing of observations of coral bleaching events. The observed surface 

13 
currents, as described by Heron et al. (2006) were employed as the velocity boundary conditions for the 

hydrodynamic model. 

Figure 7 Surface features described by Heron et al. (2006). Newly described features may be 

identified by comparison with Figure 6(b). 

Figure 8 Schematic diagram of the seasonal variation in the currents around Palau. 

14 
Tidal Elevation 

Variation in the sea-surface elevation was required as input for the numerical model. The boundaries of 

the model domain are located in deep-water sites where little or no tidal data have been recorded. While 

the determination and use of tidal constituent vectors would be preferred to constrain the tidal variation, 

this was virtually impossible for this study due to a lack of existing data. A sensible and suitable proxy to 

determine the effects of tides is to constrain values using a sea-surface elevation time-series. Again the 

remote location of the domain boundaries is an issue; however, in this case the extended time-series of 

sea-level from the Malakal Harbour Tide Gauge may be employed. This tide gauge dataset is the only 

extended time-series of its type in the vicinity of Palau. 

A nearly continuous dataset of hourly elevations at Malakal from 1969-2004, as well as 15-minuteinterval data for 1990-2001, were acquired from the Global Sea Level Observing System (GLOSS) 

[http://www.bodc.ac.uk/services/glosshb/stations/gloss120.htm]. The long-term average sea-level was 

determined from the data and defined as the datum for use in the model (i.e., the average was set to be 

zero). The time-series for Malakal was adapted and used for the boundary condition for elevation, phased 

across the model domain from east to west. This assumed that every elevation along the eastern boundary 

was in-phase, similarly with the western boundary. The assumption here was based on the tidal charts of 

Luther and Wunsch (1975) and on a global tide model by the University of Texas’ Center for Space 

Research [animated at http://geodesy.eng.ohio-state.edu/tide.html]. The phase of the tidal signal was 

interpolated across the northern and southern boundaries throughout the model run. The adaptation of the 

Malakal elevation values for the boundaries was defined so as to closely replicate the observations at the 

tide gauge location. Several iterations of the model were required to determine the appropriate linear 

relationship. This process is discussed further below. 

The elevation input was taken starting at 1200 hours, 28 October 2003 for a period of thirty days. This 

was chosen so that the model would coincide with the majority of data collected (see Appendix 1) and 

encompassed a lunar month (29.5 days), the period through which the Moon returns, in phase, over each 

location on Earth. 

Other Defined Parameters 

Bleaching Weather (described above) is characterized by little-or-no wind. Applying a no-wind constraint 

(i.e., set wind speed to zero) in the hydrodynamic model is therefore valid and simplified the model. 

Bottom friction will vary with benthic habitat type; e.g., coral cover would have a greater drag than sand. 

A coefficient of bottom friction was defined for each gridpoint and followed a logarithmic function 

involving the local depth, Von Karman’s constant (0.4) and a roughness length. The latter of these was 

varied to represent difference in friction for different bottom types. Observations of the Palau lagoon 

showed that many shallow regions were covered by coral, while the major channels were covered by silt. 

To automate the definition while effectively capturing this contrast, the roughness length values were 

defined as a function of the water depth; shallow regions having greater roughness length than deep 

regions. Even though some coral-covered regions were in significantly deep water, this method proved to 

be effective and efficient in automating the characterization of bottom friction. 

Output 

The hydrodynamic model was run for thirty days including one-half day of spin-up time (to allow the 

solution to converge smoothly from the initial conditions). The tidal data are shown in Figure 9 with 

15 
elevations referenced to the long-term mean of the data. The period covers two spring tides (11 and 26 

November) and two neap tides (03 and 18 November). 

Software used to post-process the model output, i.e., the production of the heat-stress map, constrained 

the duration of individual model runs to 1.5 days. Each subsequent 1.5-day run was continued from the 

final conditions of the previous run. 

As stated previously, the elevation boundary conditions were defined as a function of the Malakal 

Harbour Tide Gauge data. The linear relation at the eastern boundary was determined by iterative 

comparison of the data with elevations from the co-located grid point. There is a time lag in the tidal 

elevation between the eastern extent of the model domain and the tide gauge location. To determine this 

time lag, correlation coefficients of the elevations from these locations were calculated with varying time 

separations. Table 1 shows the correlation coefficients for each time-lag step. As the temporal resolution 

of the model output is one hour, this constrains the resolution with which the time-lag of the sea-level can 

be defined. The correlation values in Table 1 show that the time-lag from the eastern boundary to Malakal 

Harbour was between two and three hours – and closer to two hours. Figure 10 shows a comparison of the 

model output at the tide gauge gridpoint with the measured sea-levels used to define the eastern boundary 

condition, with a two-hour time shift of these values. The results are for the entire simulation. A linear 

regression of the values gave a slope of 1.04 and intercept of 0.06 m. Figure 10 also shows the line of 

equity (i.e., the 45° line) for reference. From this analysis it can be seen that the method of defining the 

elevation boundary conditions was successful. 

Figure 9 Time-series of sea-level measurements in Malakal Harbour used in the hydrodynamic 

model. The datum is the mean of measurements for the period 1985-2004. 

16 
 

Time Lag 

(hours) 

Correlation 

Coefficient 

0 0.51559 

1 0.83044 

2 0.97640 

3 0.92102 

4 0.68110 

5 0.31699 

6 -0.08324 

Table 1 Correlations between the elevations at the Malakal Harbour Tide Gauge grid point and 

the eastern boundary grid point for varying time lags. The Malakal grid point lags behind 

the boundary grid point in each case. 

The described seasonal variation in the velocity boundary condition was also applied in the model. 

Examination of output using different velocity constraints showed that the currents inside the Palau 

lagoon showed negligible variation from season to season; i.e., the lagoon currents were tidallydominated with little-to-no influence from low frequency currents outside the lagoon. For this reason, 

results from the thirty-day run for only one velocity boundary condition are presented, corresponding to 

the period July-September. This is, historically-speaking, the hottest period of the year and shows the 

greatest potential for coral bleaching (Bruno et al. 2001). 

Figure 10	 Scatter-plot of Malakal Tide Gauge sea-level values and model output versus measured 

values for a two-hour time lag in the Malakal output from the eastern boundary. The solid 

line is the line of equity. 

17 
 

Output from the Palau hydrodynamic model is illustrated in Figure 11 and Figure 12, showing currents 

vectors and sea-level, respectively, at the first time-step after the spin-up period (model time 0.5 days). 

Animation files of the model output are provided in the associated files as “PalauModel_Velocity.avi” 

(vel_movie) and “PalauModel_Elevation.avi” (elev_movie), respectively. The movies have a time-step of 

one hour, matching the output frequency of the model. For presentation purposes, the resolution of the 

vectors shown in Figure 12 is 1/27th of the actual grid resolution (i.e., the spacing between arrow-tails is 

approximately 7 km). 

Figure 11	 Surface velocity vectors at model time 0.5 days. Vectors are plotted at 1/27th of the grid 

resolution. 

In vel_movie the variation through the tidal cycle is reflected in the relative magnitudes of currents 

vectors through time. The strongest currents occur in the channels at the edges of, and within, the Palau 

lagoon (see also Figure 11). Notice the low magnitude of currents in the northern lagoon (the “Lagoon 

box” in Figure 4), while the southern lagoon (south of Ulong) has much stronger currents. The currents 

outside the Palau lagoon are generally stronger than those inside. Neap tidal periods coincide with the 

lowest-magnitude currents and spring tides with the highest currents, as expected. 

In elev_movie the tidal variation is apparent, as is the phase lag of the lagoon sea-level compared with the 

deep-ocean water. There appears a slight phase-difference between the northern- and southern-lagoons, 

which can also be seen in Figure 12. This is consistent with field observations for the region. The 

variation in sea-level through the neap and spring periods of the tidal cycle is also evident in the 

animation. 

While qualitative analyses of the model output suggest that it has been successful in describing the 

hydrodynamics of the region, further quantitative investigation is necessary to confirm the skill of the 

model. This was achieved by comparing data acquired during the deployment with output from 

18 
Figure 12	 Sea-surface elevation, referenced to the long-term mean sea-level, at model time 0.5 

days. The vertical axis and color scale have units of meters. 

corresponding model gridpoints. The horizontal resolution of the numerical grid (256.5 m) was greater 

than the width of some channels in the Palau Lagoon. One of the defining parameters of POM is to 

conserve mass. As such, for a given rate of mass flow, a wide channel should have a speed of lesser 

magnitude as compared with a narrow channel. This effect was accounted for when comparing the model 

output with the data. Actual channel widths were determined using the 28.5 m-resolution Landsat 

bathymetry data and used to compare the volume flow rates between the model and data. 

Figure 13 shows a plot of data (blue line) and model output (red cross) for the Lighthouse Channel 

(Toachel Ra Kesebekuu – instrument A8) from the first 1.5-day model run (including 0.5 day spin-up 

time). The data from the current profiler located in this channel were averaged in the vertical direction, so 

as to compare with the (vertically averaged) output of the 2-D model. In Figure 13 the current magnitudes 

from the model output are scaled by the ratio of the actual to modeled channel-widths for comparison 

with data values. The upper panel of Figure 13 shows the magnitudes for the scaled model output and 

data; the lower panel shows the directions of each. 

The lower panel of Figure 13 shows that there was a slight error in the current direction. This is due to the 

discrete nature of the model grid structure in describing the channel – note that the currents were 

generally in one of two directions (into or out of the lagoon). The timing of modeled direction changes 

was consistent with the observations. In the upper panel of Figure 13, the current speeds output by the 

model showed good comparison with the measurements, with the exception of the period around 

midnight (0000 hours) on 29 October 2003. At this time, the current profile showed that the direction of 

the current was consistent throughout the water column except near the surface, where the magnitude was 

19 
also greatly reduced. This inconsistency suggests a surface event that influenced the depth-averaged 

measurement (e.g., the wake from a boat or a wind-driven component of current). As the model did not 

incorporate anthropogenic or wind effects, any related effects would not be reflected in the model output. 

Figure 13 Scaled current speed and direction at the location of instrument A8 (Lighthouse Channel) 

from 28-30 October 2003. The instrument data are indicated by the blue line; the model 

output by red crosses. 

Figure 14 shows the current speed and direction, from both model and data, for the location of instrument 

A13 (Toachel Mid) for a 1.5-day period towards the end of the simulation. Here it can be seen that the 

model was unable to describe higher-frequency variations in the speed and directions, due to the one-hour 

temporal resolution of the model output. However, the model provided a very good description of the 

low-frequency variations in the currents. 

Figure 15 shows a scatter plot of scaled model output and measured current speeds at the location of 

instrument A8 (Lighthouse Channel) for the duration of the model. The line of equity is also shown. Here 

we see that the model compared well with the data through the entire simulation. 

Analyses of the model output data showed it to be consistent with observations. The model output was 

employed directly in the production of the heat-stress map for Palau. Future improvement to the 

information gained from the hydrodynamic model would require an increase in resolution, both 

temporally and spatially. This in turn would require considerably higher-quality bathymetry and access to 

super-computer facilities to execute the model script. 

20 
Direction (deg) 

Figure 14 Scaled current speed and direction at the location of instrument A13 (Toachel Mid) for 

19-21 November 2003. The instrument data are indicated by the blue line; the model 

output by red crosses. 

Vertical Temperature Profile 

The General Ocean Turbulence Model (GOTM) written by Burchard et al. (1999) was used here to 

calculate the vertical temperature distributions in Palau. GOTM simulates small-scale turbulence and 

vertical mixing in the ocean water column. It is a one dimensional, hydrostatic water column model which 

uses the Boussinesq approximation (i.e., that density differences are sufficiently small to be negligible, 

except in the calculation of weight) when calculating the turbulent eddy viscosity. 

GOTM allows the selection of a range of state-of-the-art turbulence closure schemes. A dimensionless 

stability function, a turbulent velocity scale, and turbulent macro length scale are all needed to calculate 

the Kolmogorov-Prandtl relations. Several zero-, one-, and two-equation models used to calculate the 

turbulent velocity and macro length scales, as well as various stability functions, are available in GOTM. 

Here we use the second moment closure scheme and the k-ε model. Further detail on the particular 

turbulence schemes available in GOTM can be found in Burchard (2002). 

In this application we wanted to simulate the warming of the surface waters in bleaching-like conditions 

to gain an understanding of how much heat would be absorbed into the water column. It is impossible to 

predict the exact nature of the wind and solar radiation in the next bleaching event, but we expect that it 

will be sunny with little to no wind. If we use maximum solar radiation (i.e., assume zero cloud) and 

assume that it is completely still (i.e., no wind), then we get a very hot layer of water in the top 2 to 3 

meters of the water column and little to no heating below this. 

21 
Figure 15	 Scaled model output against measured current speed for location A8 (Lighthouse 

Channel). The solid black line is the line of equity. 

01/02	 08/02 15/02 

Figure 16	 Plot of heat balance parameters: Red is incoming total short wave radiation, Green is 

longwave outgoing, Blue is the sensible heat flux, and Turquoise the Latent Heat Flux. 

-200 

0 

200 

400 

600 

800 

1000 

W/m2 

22 
Experience has taught us that this is an extreme and unrealistic case. Usually it is very sunny, but it is 

rarely completely cloudless; often it is very still, but rarely is there absolutely no wind. After examining 

the small amount of information available for the Palau 1998 bleaching event it was decided to use 

realistic rather than extreme values of solar radiation and wind, after Bird et al. (2004). This meant 

warming the water using incoming solar radiation with a daily maximum of 940 Wm-2; an average 

humidity of 75% and a gentle breeze of 2.6 ms-1 throughout the 14 day simulation period (Figure 16). The 

initial condition was a linear temperature profile of 28 °C water at the surface to 25 °C at 50 m. 

Figure 17 shows that over a two week period of warming, surface temperatures rose from 28 °C to just 

over 32 °C. The depth of penetration of the heat layer was around 5 meters due mainly to the slight 

breezes and low tidal currents that were not able to produce bottom-friction induced turbulence that 

reaches the surface. The resultant temperature profile can be seen in Figure 18. This was the temperature 

profile used for the modeling heat-stress patterns in Palau. 

0 32 

5 

31 

10 

15 30 

20 

29 

25 

28 30 

35 27 

40 

26

45 

50 

1998 

Figure 17 Development of the surface heat layer over a 14-day period. 

Modeling Heat-Stress Patterns during a Bleaching Event 

Simpson and Hunter (1974) provide the parameterization that was used to distinguish between stratified 

and well-mixed water by combining the currents with the bathymetric data (described in Heron and 

Skirving 2004). See the animation (PalauModel_MixingParameter.avi) of this mixing parameter over a 

full tidal cycle for each time step of the model. 

This information was then used in conjunction with the vertical temperature profile to determine the 

likely spatial distribution of sea surface temperature. For well-mixed regions, the temperature of the water 

column (including the SST) would be the average of the vertical temperature profile values from the 

surface to the local depth of water. In regions where the Simpson and Hunter (1974) parameter indicated Depth (m) 

02/02 02/04 02/06 02/08 02/10 02/12 02/14 

23 
-30 

-25 

-20 

-15 

-10 

-5 

0 

Depth (m) 

mixing, the SST was assigned the calculated average temperature that corresponded to the local depth. All 

other regions were deemed to be stratified and therefore no change was made to their original 32 °C SST 

values. 

25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 

Temperature (deg C) 

Figure 18 Vertical temperature profile on the 14th day of modeling. 

The SSTs were then represented as a cooling anomaly (i.e., ≤ 0, calculated by subtracting 32 °C from 

each SST value). See the animation (PalauModel_CoolingIndex.avi) of this anomaly over a full tidal 

cycle for each time step of the model. 

The anomalies at each time step of the model were then accumulated in much the same way as in the 

methodology used to derive the NOAA Degree Heating Week coral bleaching product (Skirving et al. 

2006). This methodology allowed the hourly outputs from the model to be combined into a single map of 

thermal stress (Figure 19). 

Potential use as a planning tool 

Although good approximations of actual temperatures, the temperatures are better used as indications of 

spatial patterns of relatively cooler and warmer waters during a bleaching event. In fact, this model is 

better described as a measure of thermal capacitance than temperature. The warmer regions in the model 

have a low thermal capacitance (i.e., stratified: the sun only heats up the top few meters of the water 

column resulting in high SST) and will heat up (and cool down) much faster than the cooler regions in the 

model, which have a high thermal capacitance (i.e., well-mixed: the surface heating is mixed down, 

making it resistant to high SST). 

The result of this is that the cooler regions in this model are characterized by mild thermal climatologies 

(i.e., less thermal stress) whereas the hottest regions are those that will experience the most extreme 

temperatures for a region (i.e., greater thermal stress). Figure 19 is an accumulation of the final product 

from the Palau model. It depicts the average modeled cooling effect due to mixing, accumulated over a 

24 
 

tidal cycle (one month). The blue regions represent the most cooling at the surface due to mixing and 

hence represent the regions with the lowest temperature variability and high thermal capacitance. This 

provides the organisms that live there with a mild climate providing greater protection against thermal 

stress. The red regions are the opposite, having little mixing, high temperature variability, and low 

thermal capacitance. These areas are at greater risk of thermal stress. 

°C-weeks 

Figure 19 Final output from the Palau model of thermal capacitance, expressed as surface cooling 

degree-weeks (i.e., how much the mixing cooled the surface temperature during the onemonth period) (from Heron and Skirving 2004). 

A chart of this type can be extremely useful when designing a PAN. In general, most PANs are currently 

designed so as to provide protection to “representative bioregions,” meaning that, as much as possible, 

every type of bioregion within the ecosystem of interest should be equally represented within the PAN. 

An ecosystem is not only made up of different species, but also has genetic variability within species that 

contain unique physiological characteristics. When designing a PAN, it is relatively straight forward to 

map bioregions on the basis of species composition; however the genetic (phenotypic) variability within 

each species is not represented by these techniques. With respect to a changing climate, the phenotypes 

that result in varied physiological characteristics are likely to correspond to different thermal capacitances 

throughout the region. As a result, although we may not know what these characteristics are, the relevant 

characteristics for resilience against climate change can be protected if a representative amount of each 

thermal region within the thermal capacitance map is protected. This is very important when designing a 

PAN to maximize resilience to climate change as it is important to both protect regions of low thermal 

capacitance that physically protect species from thermal stress, and to protect phenotypes that are already 

adapted to higher thermal stress. 

25 
Recommendations 

The work described in this Technical Report represents an important new tool for Marine Protected Area 

(MPA) design. Prior to this project, the design of MPAs was based on species diversity alone and some 

socioeconomic considerations. Prior to this work, there had not been a serious attempt to include physical 

variables to build resilience against climate change, and in particular coral bleaching, into MPA design. 

This project demonstrated that a simplistic physical model can be used to improve MPA planning to 

incorporate resilience against future coral bleaching events. NOAA Coral Reef Watch (CRW) are 

working with collaborators such as the Australian Institute of Marine Science, the University of 

Queensland (Australia), the University of Exeter (UK), and others to further develop this methodology so 

that these techniques might become common tools in the design of MPAs around the world. Three 

approaches are being used to improve this application of physical oceanography to MPA design: 

1)	 Increased use of satellite data: For many regions of the world it is possible to replace the 

need for expensive hydrodynamic modeling and major deployment of oceanographic 

equipment with the application of high-resolution satellite data. This is possible for many 

places where there have been a significant number of thermal stress events and where the 

spatial scale of the reefs is such that sub-kilometer resolution thermal capacitance maps is not 

necessary. NOAA CRW is collaborating with the University of Exeter (UK) and others to 

investigate the use of larval connectivity models in conjunction with satellite- derived maps 

of thermal capacitance. A pilot project in the Bahamas has already begun. 

2)	 Move from 2D to 3D: The Palau work presented in this report used a two-dimensional map 

of thermal capacitance. This is derived from 2D sea surface temperature patterns during 

bleaching conditions. As these techniques are developed, it is necessary to recognize that 

thermal effects and responses of corals are depth dependent and, as such, need to be described 

in 3D. There are three issues that need to be examined for the work in this report to be 

extended from 2D to 3D: 

a.	 Methodologies for developing very-high-resolution 3D hydrodynamic models on coral 

reefs. This is the subject of a joint pilot project underway at Heron Island between NOAA 

CRW and AIMS. 

b.	 An understanding of the three-dimensional variation in the response of corals to thermal 

stress; i.e., the variation of thermal threshold with depth and benthic complexity. This is 

the subject of a joint project at Heron Island between NOAA CRW and the University of 

Queensland. Once complete, this project will need to be extended to include other reefs 

and coral species. 

c.	 A methodology that allows the satellite-derived two-dimensional SSTs over coral reefs to 

be interpreted as three-dimensional SST. This uses an outcome of the collaborative 

hydrodynamic modeling at Heron Island. The very-high-resolution 3D model being 

developed jointly by NOAA CRW and the Australian Institute of Marine Science will be 

used to investigate the ability of a combination of 2D and 1D models to mimic the 3D 

temperature structure of a coral reef. Once developed, this methodology can be adapted 

for use on most coral reefs. 

3)	 Include light in predictions of coral bleaching: Coral bleaching is not directly caused by 

temperature but results from excessive light, with the threshold modulated by temperature. 

By including light in the methodologies developed in the Palau MPA project, predictions of 

coral bleaching severity and mortality may become possible. A collaborative project led by 

NOAA CRW and including researchers from the Universidad Nacional Autónoma de 

México, the University of Exeter, and the University of Queensland has begun to develop an 

algorithm that combines light and temperature to produce a measure of the light stress 

experienced by corals. 

26 
As indicated above, preliminary work has begun for the issues mentioned above, and much of it involves 

work at Heron Island in the southern Great Barrier Reef. None of these efforts would be possible without 

collaborations between NOAA CRW and researchers from the various agencies and universities 

mentioned, especially collaborations between the US and Australia. 

The innovative research presented in this report represents the beginning of the use of physical data from 

models and satellites for the management of coral reefs. It provides a glimpse of the tools that can be 

developed to understand and effectively manage coral reefs in a changing climate. Development of the 

methodologies described in this report continues; however, these efforts are limited in scope and only 

represent preliminary investigations. Significant funding and resources will be needed for the full 

potential of these methodologies to be realized. 

27 
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30 
 

Appendix 1 

Palau Oceanographic Array Data Report: 

January 2003 – January 2004 

Craig R. Steinberg, Scott F. Heron, William J. Skirving, Cary McLean, and Severine M. Choukroun 

Abstract 

Palau is an archipelago of hundreds of islands, the majority of which are surrounded by an extensive 

barrier reef. The major island group is located near 7o

 20’ N, 134o 30’ E, in the Western Pacific Ocean, 

and is part of the Caroline Islands of Micronesia. 

Coral bleaching is a global problem for coral reefs and affected large areas during 1997 and 1998. Most 

of Micronesia escaped damage; however, there was an unprecedented loss of coral around Palau itself. 

Field surveys found that on average, nearly half of 946 scleratinian taxa were totally bleached and another 

15% were partially bleached. The bleaching event was relatively severe and widespread across depths, 

sites, habitats and coral taxa. 

At the time of the bleaching event, there was no major in situ monitoring of water temperature around 

Palau. A long-term temperature monitoring program has since been instigated by Pat Colin from the Coral 

Reef Research Foundation (CRRF). The short-term study reported here complements the CRRF array by 

expanding the number of observing locations to over 60. 

An extensive study of oceanographic parameters in Palauan waters was undertaken during the period 

August 2003 to January 2004. The period of deployment was selected to coincide with the timing of 

observed bleaching events. Sixty-two instruments were deployed in and near the Palau lagoon to record 

currents, temperatures, sea-levels, salinities and weather conditions. This number of instruments is 

unusually high for a region of this size, and was fueled by a desire to maximize coverage and the 

fortuitous availability of instruments. The deployment is the most-extensive in situ ocean study ever 

performed in Palau. 

This report presents a comprehensive overview of the data collected and allows a brief view of some of 

the time series collected. These time series are of sufficient length to undertake a tidal current analysis for 

hind-casting or prediction. Raw data may be requested by contacting coralreefwatch@noaa.gov. 

Citation: 

Steinberg C.R., S.F. Heron, W.J. Skirving, C. McLean and S.M. Choukroun (2004) "Palau Oceanographic 

Array Data Report, August 2003 - January 2004. Report to The Nature Conservancy" Australian Institute 

of Marine Science and National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration, 246pp.
 

31 
Palau Oceanographic Array 

Data Report 

August 2003 – January 2004 

Craig Steinberg, Scott Heron, William Skirving, Cary McLean & Severine Choukroun 

Australian Institute of Marine Science 

National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration 

The Nature Conservancy
 
Disclaimer 

This report has been produced for the sole use of the party who requested it. The 

application or use of this report and of any data or information (including results of 

experiments, conclusions, and recommendations) contained within it shall be at the sole 

risk and responsibility of that party. AIMS and NOAA do not provide any warranty or 

assurance as to the accuracy or suitability of the whole or any part of the report, for any 

particular purpose or application. Subject only to any contrary non-excludable statutory 

obligations neither AIMS, NOAA nor its personnel will be responsible to the party 

requesting the report, or any other person claiming through that party, for any 

consequences of its use or application (whether in whole or part). 

ii 
Table of Contents 

Disclaimer ...................................................................................................................................... ii
 

List of Figures............................................................................................................................... iv
 

List of Tables ................................................................................................................................ iv
 

Acknowledgements ........................................................................................................................v
 

The Proposed Work.......................................................................................................................1
 

Introduction....................................................................................................................................2
 

Deployment Methodology .............................................................................................................4
 

Instrument Array Summary.........................................................................................................9
 

Temperature Transect and Mooring Summary........................................................................15
 

Instruments and Processing........................................................................................................22
 

Calibrations..............................................................................................................................22 

Data Processing........................................................................................................................23 

Current Meters .........................................................................................................................24 

RD Instruments ADCP ..........................................................................................................24
 

Nortek Aquapro current profiler ............................................................................................25 

Nortek Aquadopp current meter ............................................................................................26 

Nobska MAVS-3 ...................................................................................................................27 

Interocean S4 .........................................................................................................................28 

Tide Gauge...............................................................................................................................29 

Brancker XR-420 TD.............................................................................................................29 

Conductivity Logger ................................................................................................................30 

SBE16 ....................................................................................................................................30 

Temperature Loggers...............................................................................................................31 

SBE39 ....................................................................................................................................31 

CTD Profiler ............................................................................................................................32 

SBE19 ....................................................................................................................................32 

Weather Station........................................................................................................................33 

Campbell Scientific................................................................................................................33 

NOAA National Weather Service, Palau...............................................................................34 

Notable events...............................................................................................................................35
 

Acronyms and Instrument Notations.........................................................................................35
 

References.....................................................................................................................................36
 

Appendix A – Daily Schedule .....................................................................................................37
 

Appendix B – Tide gauge deployment information..................................................................41
 

Appendix C – Current meter deployment information............................................................45
 

Appendix D – Temperature deployment information..............................................................52
 

Appendix E – Salinity deployment information........................................................................68
 

Appendix F – Weather station deployment information .........................................................69
 

Appendix G – Mooring and Transect Summary Plots.............................................................70
 

Appendix H – Time Series Plots of Current Meter Data .........................................................79
 

Appendix I – Time Series Plots of Tide Gauge Data ..............................................................117
 

Appendix J – Time Series Plots of Salinity Data.....................................................................125
 

Appendix K – CTD Profiles ......................................................................................................131
 

Appendix L – Time Series Plots of Weather Data ..................................................................234
 

iii
 
Appendix M – Data Format & File naming conventions .......................................................238
 

Appendix N – Data Archive ......................................................................................................246
 

List of Figures 

Figure 1 Location map of Palau.......................................................................................................3 

Figure 2 Temperature Mooring ready for deployment. ...................................................................5 

Figure 3 Portable Weather station being set up by Cary McLean. ..................................................5 

Figure 4 Schematic showing an in-line mooring and transect of temperature loggers....................6 

Figure 5 Cary McLean secures an SBE39 temperature logger to a coral outcrop using 

stainless steel wire....................................................................................................................6 

Figure 6 Felipe Arzayus Recovering an ADCP...............................................................................7 

Figure 7 Cary McLean securing an SBE16 Conductivity and Temperature logger........................8 

Figure 8 IKONOS satellite image of Palau. The Lagoon box covers the area shown. 

Deployed instruments are indicated by their codes. Orientation of zoomed areas in 

Figure 9 and Figure 10 may be performed using these codes................................................13 

Figure 9 Zoomed image of the Malakal Harbour box from Figure 8. ...........................................13 

Figure 10 Zoomed image of the Rock Islands box from Figure 9.................................................14 

Figure 11 Typical configuration of a reef temperature transect. ...................................................15 

Figure 12 T5 Mooring design. .......................................................................................................19 

Figure 13 T8 mooring design.........................................................................................................21 

Figure 14 Screen capture of the WinADCP data viewer .............................................................240 

Figure 15 Screen capture of the WinADCP export options.........................................................241 

Figure 16 Archival DVD-ROM directory structure.....................................................................246 

List of Tables 

Table 1 Station Codes and number of instruments ..........................................................................9 

Table 2 Instrument codes for each of the three specified regions. Co-located instruments 

are grouped together. ...............................................................................................................9 

Table 3 Instrument codes listed by primary instrument type.........................................................10 

Table 4 Locations of instruments and other points of interest.......................................................11 

Table 5 List of CTD profiles taken during September 2003 .......................................................131 

Table 6 List of CTD profiles taken during November 2003........................................................132 

Table 7 Filename tags ..................................................................................................................238 

Table 8 ASCII output from Pal02000.txt, illustrating format......................................................242 

Table 9 Example output for header from the current profiler, A5...............................................243 

Table 10 Example listing of attributes and units from the current profiler, A5...........................245 

iv
 
Acknowledgements 

Steven Victor from the Palau International Coral Reef Center ensured a successful 

campaign and provided an excellent working base. Thanks to Pat Colin from the Coral 

Reef Research Foundation for guiding us, providing instrumentation and essential backup 

in the field. Andrew Bauman from the Office of Environmental Response and 

Coordination greatly supported the project and assisted with the field work. Andrew 

Smith and the team at The Nature Conservancy also provided excellent support and the 

use of their vessel. Bob Richmond from the University of Guam provided additional 

instrumentation. This research was funded by the Australian Institute of Marine Science, 

National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration and The Nature Conservancy. 

Support from the Koror State Government and the Office of the President is gratefully 

acknowledged. 

Partners 

AIMS Australian Institute of Marine Science 

CRRF Coral Reef Research Foundation 

Koror State Conservation and Law Enforcement 

NOAA National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration 

OERC Office of the Environmental Response and Coordination & the Office of 

the President 

PICRC Palau International Coral Reef Center 

TNC The Nature Conservancy 

UoG University of Guam 

v 
The Proposed Work 

Coral bleaching in Palau: Prediction and mapping with the use of hydrodynamic models 

and satellite data 

Dr William Skirving*, Craig Steinberg+
 

Dr Rod Salm#, Dr Eric Bayler* and Dr Alan E. Strong* 

* NOAA/NESDIS/ORA
 + Australian Institute of Marine Science 

# The Nature Conservancy 

The Palau International Coral Reef Center (PICRC), the Koror State Department of 

Conservation and Law Enforcement and the Coral Reef Research Foundation have 

teamed with the US National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA), the 

Australian Institute of Marine Science (AIMS), The Nature Conservancy (TNC) and the 

University of Guam (UoG) to conduct the most intensive study of oceanography in 

Palau’s history. 

The project will be conducted over the next two years and will aim at developing a good 

understanding of the effects of water currents on coral bleaching. The aim is to model 

the water currents in and around Palau so that these models can be used to predict which 

regions are more likely and less likely to experience coral bleaching in the future. 

The project has been split into five distinct sections: 

a) A study will be conducted with the use of historic environmental data (i.e. 

water temperatures, weather records and satellite data) to try to develop an 

understanding of the origin of the hot water that caused the severe bleaching 

during 1998. 

b)	 Instruments will be deployed between September 2003 and January 2004. 

Oceanic variables, including tidal heights, currents, water temperature and 

salinity; and weather variables, such as wind, air temperature and incoming 

solar radiation; will be recorded. 

c)	 IKONOS satellite imagery, in conjunction with specific hydrographic 

transects, will be used to derive a complete bathymetric chart of the Palau 

region at 4 meter resolution. 

d) A series of 1, 2 and 3 dimensional hydrodynamic models (computer 

simulations) will be built with the help of the bathymetric map and the field 

data. 

e)	 All of the above information will be combined to derive a map, which will 

describe the patterns of hot and cool water in and around Palau during a future 

coral bleaching event. This will be used by TNC to derive an understanding 

of the spatial variability of coral bleaching during a future bleaching event. 

1
 
PICRC, NOAA and AIMS, with input from Koror State Dept of Conservation and Law 

Enforcement and TNC, have designed a plan for the deployment of instruments to 

measure tides, currents, water temperature and salinity. These instruments are being 

deployed now and will be used to calibrate and validate the computer models of water 

motion in and around Palau. 

The modelling effort will take place at NOAA and AIMS with input from PICRC 

scientists. It is expected that there will be a number of spin-off projects that will build on 

this project and will involve PICRC, NOAA and AIMS. 

This project has a number of direct benefits for Palau. For example, the bleaching 

information will be used to help the Federal and State Governments of Palau to design 

and manage their Marine Protected Areas so as to enable the sustainable use of the 

valuable coral reef resources in Palauan waters. The output from the models can also be 

used for other studies such as those concerned with sediment from rivers, fish spawning, 

coral spawning and gaining a general understanding of the links between one part of the 

reef and another. 

Introduction 

Palau is an archipelago of hundreds of islands, the majority of which are surrounded by 

an extensive barrier reef. The major island group is located near 7o

 20’ N, 134o 30’ E, in 

the Western Pacific Ocean, and is part of the Caroline Islands of Micronesia. 

Coral bleaching is a global problem for coral reefs and affected large areas during 

1997/1998. Most of Micronesia escaped damage; however, there was an unprecedented 

loss of coral around Palau itself (Wilkinson, 2002). Bruno et al. (2001) documents the 

1998 bleaching event in Palau from field surveys and found, on average, nearly half of 

946 scleratinian taxa were totally bleached and another 15% were partially bleached. The 

bleaching event was relatively severe and widespread across depths, sites, habitats and 

coral taxa. 

There was no major in situ monitoring of water temperature around Palau during the 

bleaching event. A long-term temperature monitoring programme has since been 

instigated by Pat Colin from the Coral Reef Research Foundation (Colin, 2000). The 

short-term study reported here complements the CRRF array by expanding the number of 

observing locations to over 60. 

This study will attempt to explain how the corals will fair during a bleaching event by 

understanding the key physical processes that determine the thermal environment in 

which the corals live. As Palau is located near 7°N, it experiences the sun passing 

meridionally overhead twice a year and therefore has two peaks of solar insolation, offset 

from the maximum solar zenith, in March and October/November (Penland et al., 2004). 

We were able to deploy instruments in August 2003 and recover them in January 2004 so 

that at least one of the hottest periods of the year was observed. 

2
 
This report describes data collected from a physical oceanographic array deployed in 

Palau from August 2003 to January 2004. The aim was to observe bleaching-like 

conditions; this four-month period allowed a reasonable amount of time to experience a 

variety of weather events. This report presents a comprehensive overview of the data 

collected and allows a first look at the time series collected. Further analysis and data 

quality assessments will be done as the study progresses. 

The data will also be useful for longer-term studies as the time series are long enough for 

a good tidal current analysis for hindcasting or prediction. 

The Temperature Transect and Mooring Summary section displays what instruments 

were deployed at each site and their position in the water column or reef slope. The 

filenames of the raw data downloaded directly from the loggers is given together with 

their processed filename. The naming conventions are summarized in Appendix M. 

Deployment details of each instrument can be found in Appendices B, C, D, E and F. 

Plots of the observed data can be found in Appendices G, H, I, J , K and L. The plots in 

these appendices are presented specifically to illustrate what data were collected; they are 

not intended for analysis or scientific investigation. A companion DVD-ROM to this 

data report is available for these purposes, the data format and layout of which are 

described in Appendices M & N. 

Figure 1 Location map of Palau. 

3
 
Deployment Methodology 

As coral bleaching has a high spatial variability, the best scenario would have been to 

position instruments to maximise the geographic coverage of Palau. However, due to 

time constraints and a limited number of instruments this was not possible. A region that 

is influenced by a wide range of oceanic conditions was selected for instrumentation, to 

be representative of the situation in Palau. As discussed, a planned endeavour is to use 

numerical models to infer oceanic information in the Palau region. Instruments were 

positioned so as to provide boundary conditions for such models. To this end, most 

major entrances or channels were assigned a current meter or tide gauge to measure flows 

or sealevels in order to determine the fluxes into, or out of the system. Other 

instrumentation was then deployed within these regions to allow model validation and 

observe the thermal stratification at reasonably high temporal and spatial resolution. 

A small vessel from The Nature Conservancy was used and a team of SCUBA divers 

secured the instruments to the reef slopes or sea floor. This meant that it was more 

practical to instrument the region adjacent to our base at PICRC in Koror. The nearby 

region also had the desired large range of topographic features; for example, a reef flat, 

lagoons, channels, rock islands, lakes and the open ocean. 

Instruments were sourced principally from AIMS and were supplemented by others from 

UoG and CRRF. The instruments were deployed to, in effect, bound specific regions of 

interest. These boxes were named Lagoon (Figure 8), Malakal Harbour (Figure 9) and 

the Rock Islands near Koror (Figure 10). The lagoon box extended from the Philippine 

Sea in the West to a deep-water mooring off Uchelbeluu in the East. Ulong Island 

defined the southern boundary and the Paleo channel near the western entrance, mid-way 

up Babeldaob, was the northernmost limit. The Malakal box is contained within the 

Lagoon box and adjacent to the Rock Islands box. The next section describes the 

locations and instrumentation deployed at each location. 

A deep-water mooring was deployed seaward of the outer reef at Uchelbeluu to gain an 

understanding of the oceanic conditions. The mooring was designed for a water depth of 

120m, however due to the rapid descent of the seafloor, the mooring was positioned at 

250m, 130m deeper than anticipated. This meant that the data were collected below the 

main thermocline. 

4
 
 

Figure 2 Temperature Mooring ready for deployment. 

Weather: 

Meteorological observations for the period from January 1994 to April 2004 were 

acquired from the NOAA National Weather Service station in Palau. Due to nearby 

obstacles, the location of the NOAA weather station led to a lack of confidence in the 

wind measurements. A portable weather station was installed as a part of this study to 

compare with the existing long-term dataset. The weather station monitored standard 

meteorological parameters and also included solar radiation and Photosynthetically 

Active Radiation (PAR) sensors to monitor the solar insolation. This station was 

positioned high on a promontory in the northeast of Koror to ensure the best fetch in all 

directions. 

Figure 3 Portable Weather station being set up by Cary McLean. 

5
 
 

Temperature measurements: 

Temperature loggers were positioned either individually or as vertical profiles. Profiles 

were realised by placing instruments on moorings or down reef slopes. The locations of 

the loggers were selected to monitor regions where vertical stratification of water m ay 

occur, or conversely where turbulent mixing may occur, and also to examine possible 

areas of upwelling. 

Mooring 

Loggers 

Figu re 4 Schematic showing an in-line mooring and transect of temperature l oggers. 

Figure 5 Cary McLean secures an SBE39 temperature logger to a coral 

outcrop using stainless steel wire. 

Current measurements: 

An array of bottom mounted Acoustic Doppler Current Profilers (ADCP), as well as a 

number of point instruments, were deployed in reef channels, lagoons and flats to ensu re 

a wide variety of current regimes. Current profilers monitor water movement through the 

entire depth of the water column using acoustic techniques and, th us, were deployed in 

deep channels at region boundaries. Point meters were located in shallow waters, at 

region boundaries and within the specified boxes. 

6
 
Figure 6 Felipe Arzayus Recovering an ADCP. 

Tide gauges: 

While several of the temperature and current meters also contained pressure sensors, 

additional tide gauges were deployed to ascertain the sealevel response to weather, tide s 

and larger scale circulation features in greater detail. Tide gauges were deployed on reef 

flats at region boundaries to monitor over-reef water fluxes. Tide gauges were located 

across the specified regions to determine the relative phase of tidal inundation across 

Palau. One tide gauge was positioned adjacent to the existing Malakal Harbour Tide 

Gauge, for a short period, to compare with the long-term dataset. 

Salinity measurements: 

Salinity can be determined by measuring the conductivity and temperature of water. An 

east-west transect of conductivity and temperature loggers was constructed to measure 

salinity and monitor the development of salinity fronts and hyper-saline conditions. The 

transect was positioned from the Philippine Sea, across the Palau lagoon, through 

Malakal Harbour and out to the eastern reef extreme. 

7
 
Figure 7 Cary McLean sec uring an SBE16 Conductivity and Temperature lo gger. 

Vertical profiles of Conductivity and Temperature with Depth (CTD): 

A numb er of CTD profiles were measured to determine the vertical variation of water 

properties across the Palau region. These were perf ormed using an instrument which 

measures conductivity, temperature, and pre ssure with a frequency of 4 Hz. The 

instrument was attached to a rope and lowered by hand through the water column. The 

speed of descent was controlled at approximately 1 m/s; the ascent of the CTD was 

performed at the same rate. This permitted a near-repeat measurement of the water 

properties. 

Bathymetry measurements: 

An essential input for numerical modelling is accurate bathymetry. Production of a 

satellite-derived bathymetry of Palau is underway at the NOAA National Ocean Se rvice. 

The techniques being applied require calibration by in situ data. An echo-sounder was 

used to collect in situ depth measurements in a variety of regions across Palau. These 

data are not presented here but will be in the final bathymetry repo rt. 

8
 
 

 

 

 

 

Instrument Array Summary 

A total of thirteen current meters, s ix tide gauges, five conductivity loggers, one weather 

stat ion and thirty-seven individual temperature loggers were de ployed in this experiment. 

Some instruments wer e positioned in two or more locations during the study; e.g., the 

thirte en current me ters were deploy ed in fourteen locations. 

Table 1, Table 2, Table 3 and Table 4 list the instruments, their de ployment codes and 

geographic locations. Figure 8, Figure 9 and Figure 10 show the array locations overlaid 

on satellite imagery. Station coding was used to help distinguish the type of parameters 

mea sure d, as shown in T ble 1 a . Many instrume nts have sensing capa bilities beyond their

primary function listed below and thus measure additional properties (e.g., temperature is 

mea sured by the current profilers, tide gauges and conductivity probes). 

Table 1 Station Code s and number of instruments 

Code Instrument Number of Instruments 

A Current meter 13 total filin 4s, 2 Point Nobskas) (9 Pro g - 2 Point S 

B Tide gauge 4 Brancker XR420 TD, 2 SBE39PT 

C Conductivity logger 5 SBE16CT 

T Temperature 37 SBE E1 RDI ADCP, 1 

ska 

39, 4 SB 6CT, 1 Brancker XR420 TD, 1 

Nob 

WX Weather station p1 Cam bell Scientific 

Table 2 lists the deployment summary ordered by the three spec ified regions or boxes: 

Lagoon, Malakal Harbour and the Rock Islands. The Malakal Harbour box completes the 

western boundary of the Lagoon box. Co-located instruments are grouped together in 

Table 2. Table 3 lists the instrument sites by the primary parameter measured; i.e., 

currents, sealevel, temperature and salinity. 

Table 2 Instrument codes for each of the three specified regions. Co-located instruments are 

group ed t ogether. 

(a) L agoon box 

eCod Instrument Serial no. Depth Location Description 

A6 S4 564 33m Paleo Channel - Toachel Mlengui 

T6 

B5 

C1 

SBE39T 

SBE39PT 

SBE16CT 

5 loggers 

0760 

2123 

20m Philippine S ea - West reef flat 

A7 

T1 

C2 

Nobska 

SBE39T 

SBE16CT 

10046 

5 loggers 

2127 

14.5m 

to 20m 

Falcon Reef - lagoon central 

A3 Nobska 10045 20m Ulong West 

A4 

T8 

B4 

ADCP 300kHz 

SBE39T 

Brancker XR420 

584 B 

5 logg 

T 

ers 

10091 

>30m 

to 40m 

1m 

Ulong East 

T7 

B3 XR420 

SBE39T 

Brancker 10093 

5 loggers 

6m 

to 18m Central Rock Islands, Uruktha pel 

A13 Nortek Aquapro 0866 CRRF >30m Toachel mid 

9
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A2 S4 615 4m Ngetalau passage (channel) outside 

Rock Is. 

A5 

T5 

C5 

ADCP 300kH z

SBE39T 

SBE16CT 

412 BTP 

5 loggers 

2125 

215m 

to 

Uchelbeluu 

(b) Malakal Harbour box 

Code Instrument Serial no. Depth Location Description 

A10 ADCP 120 0kHz UoG 1292 22m Toachel Ra Ngel 

B2 SBE39PT 0759 1.9m Ngedarrak Reef flat 

A8 

T2 

C4 

ADCP 600kHz 3 228 BTPW 30m Lighthouse Toache l Ra Kesebekuu 

A9 

C3 

Nortek Aquapro 0794 27.7m Malakal Harbor Pincers 

B6 Brancker XR420 10093 2m e Gauge (moved 

from B3) 

Malakal Harbour Tid 

(c) Rock I slands box 

eCod Instrument Serial no. Depth Location Description 

B1 Brancker XR420 10079 2.5m RI Toirius 

A11 ADCP 600kHz 1673 22m RI northern channel entrance 

A11b ADCP 1200kHz oG1292 U 22.6m RI northern channel e ntrance 

A11c Nortek Aquapro 0866 CRRF >30m RI northern chann el entrance 

A14 ADCP 1200kHz oG 1292 U 4m Japanese chan nel

A12 Nortek 

Aquadopp 

CRRF0970 11.4m RI southern reef opening 

A1 ADCP 1200kHz 0974 24.2m RI mid channel 

T3 SBE39T 5 loggers 20m RI inside channel 

T4 SBE39T 5 loggers 20m RI Nikko lake 

Table 3 I nstrument c odes lis ted by primary instru men t type
 

(a) Current Profilers and Point Meters 

odeC Instrument Serial no. Depth Location Description 

A1 ADCP 1200kHz 974 25m RI mid channel 

A2 S4 615 4m Ngetalau passage outside rock is. 

A3 Nobska 10045 16m Ulong West 

A4 RDI ADCP 

300kHz 

584 BT 30+m Ulong East 

A5 RDI AD 

300kHz 

CP 412 BTP 126m eluu Uchelb 

A6 S4 564 30m Pal eo Channel - Toachel Mlengui 

A7 Nobska 10046 25m Fa lcon Reef - lagoon central 

A8 RDI AD 

600kHz 

CP 3228 BTPW 30m Lighthouse Toachel Ra Kesebekuu 

A9 Nortek A quapro 1015 30m Malakal Harbor Pincers 

A10 ADCP 1 200kHz 1292 17m Toach el Ra Ngel 

A11 RDI AD 

600kHz 

CP 1673 25m RI northern channel entran ce

A11b ADCP 1 200kHz 1292 22.6m RI north ern channel entrance 

10
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A11c Nortek A quapro 0866 >30m RI northern channel e ntrance 

A12 Nortek 

Aquadop p 

0970 12m RI southern reef opening 

A13 Nortek A quapro 0866 30m Toachel m id 

A14 ADCP 1 0kHz 20 1292 4m Japanese channel 

(b) Temperature Profiles 

Code Instruments Other Depth Location Description 

T1 4 SBE39 s C2 20m Fa lcon Reef - lagoon central 

T2 4 SBE39 s C4 20m Lighthouse Toachel Ra Kesebekuu 

T3 5 SBE39 s 20m RI inside channel 

T4 5 SBE39 s 18m RI Nikko Bay 

T5 5 SBE39 s C5 250m Deep water m ooring Uchelbeluu 

T6 4 SBE39 s C1 B5 30m Philippine Sea – West re ef flat 

T7 5 SBE39 s B3 18m Central Roc k Islands, Urukthapel 

T8 4 SBE39 s B7 45m Ulong E ast Channel 

(c) Tide Gauges 

Code Instrument Serial no. Depth Location Description 

B1 Brancker 420 XR 10079 4m RI Toirius 

B2 SBE39P T 759 4m Reef f lat Ngedarrak Reef 

B3 Brancker XR420 10093 18m Cent ral Rock Islands, Urukthapel

B3B Brancker XR420 10093 4.5m East of Blue Cor ner 

B3C Brancker XR420 10093 2.5m North Babeldaup 

B4 Brancker XR420 10091 30m ng EastUlo 

B5 SBE39PT 760 20m Philippine Sea – lagoon side reef flat 

B6 Brancker XR420 10093 2m Malaka l Harbour Tide Gauge

(d) Conductivity loggers 

Code Instrument Serial no. Depth Location Description 

C1 SBE16C T 2123 5.5m Philippine Sea 

C2 SBE16C T 2127 5.0m Falcon Reef 

C3 SBE16C T 2126 2.6m Malakal Harbo ur Pincers 

C4 SBE16C T 2124 1.5m LighthouseToachel Ra Kesebekuu 

C5 SBE16C T 2125 160m Uchelbeluu 

Table 4 Locations of instruments and o ther p oints of interest 

(a) Instrum ent locations 

Code Latitude, Longitude Location Description 

A1 7,19.786,134,29.637 RI mid channel 

A2 7,19.315,134,29.400 Ngetalau passage 

A3 7,18.293,134,16.726 Ulong West 

A4B4 7,16.617,134,18.716 Ulong East 

A4 7,16.621,134,18.681 Subsurface buoy 

A5T5C5 7,15.918,134,33.398 Uchelbeluu 

A6 7,28.927,134,2 7.776 Paleo Channel – Toachel M lengui 

A7T1C2 7,22.424,134,23.231 Falcon Reef 

A8T2C4 7,16.991,134,27.928 Lighthouse Toachel Ra Kesebekuu 

A9C3 7,20.163,134,25.483 Malakal Harbour Pincers 

A10 7,17.786,134,28.958 Toachel Ra Ngel 

11
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A11 7,19.400,134,28.949 RI northern channel entrance 

A12 7,19.223,134,29.795 RI southern reef opening 

A13 7,19.023,134,31.490 Toachel mid 

A14 7,17.786,134,28.958 Japanese Channel 

T3 7,19.570,134,29.417 RI Inside channel 

T4 7,19.772,134,30.034 RI Nikko Bay 

T6C1 7,24.713,134,20.258 Philippine Sea 

T7B3 7,16.376,134,24.667 Urukthapel 

T8 7,16.621,134,18.802 Ulong East Channel 

B1 7,19.821,134,28.878 RI 

B2 7,17.472,134,28.282 Ngedarrak Reef flat 

B3 7, 16.376 134, 24.667 Central Rock Islands, Urukthapel 

B3B 7,8.4912,134, 17.8275 East of Blue Corner 

B3C 7,46.60848, 134, 35.1582 North Babeldaup 

B4 07,16.621, 134,18.680 Ulong East 

B5 7,24.380,134,21.065 Philippine Sea – Lagoon reef 

B6 7,20.011,134,27.430 Malakal Harbour Tide Gauge 

C1 7,24.713,134,20.258 Philippine Sea 

C2 7,22.424,134,23.231 Falcon Reef 

C3 7,20.163,134,25.483 Malakal Harbour Pincers 

C4 7,16.991,134,27.928 Lighthouse Toachel Ra Kesebekuu 

C5 7,15.918,134,33.398 Uchelbeluu 

WXSTA 7,20.969,134,30.018 Weather Station 

(b) Additional locations 

Code Latitude, Longitude Location Description 

L10CRRF 7,19.786,134,29.637 Lighthouse 10m CRRF 

L2 CRRF 7 16.613,134,27.067 Lighthouse 2m CRRF 

Falcon Reef 7 22.400,134,23.240 Falcon Reef CRRF 

Malakal Hbr 7 19.008,134,27.627 Malakal Hbr CRRF 

Ngaregabel Rf 7 24.725,134,27.006 Ngaregabel Reef CRRF 

Ngerkul Gap 7 19.170,134,29.779 Ngerkul Gap CRRF 

Nikko Bay 7 20.049,134,30.301 Nikko Bay CRRF 

Ongael Basin 7 15.053,134,22.479 Ongael Basin CRRF 

Ongael out 7 14.964,134,22.471 Ongael Outside CRRF 

ShortDropOff 7 16.418,134,31.440 Short Drop Off CRRF 

Ulong 10 7 17.425,134,14.463 Ulong Rock 10m CRRF N 

Ulong 55 7 17.453,134,14.442 Ulong Rock 55m CRRF N 

West Channel 7 32.560,134,28.059 West Channel CRRF 

LIGHTH 7 16.927,134,27.881 Lighthouse 

12
 
Figure 8 IKONOS satellite image of Palau. The Lagoon box covers the area shown. Deployed 

instruments are indicated by their codes. Orientation of zoomed areas in Figure 9 and Figure 10
 

may be performed using these codes. 

Figure 9 Zoomed image of the Malakal Harbour box from Figure 8. 

13
 
Figure 10 Zoomed image of the Rock Islands box from Figure 9. 

14
 
Temperature Transect and Mooring Summary 

The following tables summarise all of the in strum entation on each of the transects or inline moorings. Further, instrume t-speci n fic inform ation can be found in A pendices p B, 

C, D and E. Instruments are nu m bered from the bottom up - T1i1 indicate transect one, s 

instrument 1 (the deepest instrument). T1i6 is the shallow est instrument in the same 

transect. Figure 11 depicts a typical reef transect; Figure 12 and Figure 13 llustrate the i 

moorings deployed at locations T5 a nd T8, respectively. 

After the tables are c alculations to estimate eac h instrument depth rela tive to Lowest 

Astronomical Tide (LAT). The Malakal Harbo ur sealevel was used to estimate the tide 

height when observations of water depth were taken by diver pressure gauges. There 

were usually 2 estimate s taken: one upon deploym ent and one at recovery. There may be 

missin g data; however, the best estimate was in cluded in the table prop er. Deployment 

times are all UTC+9 hours; i.e., the local Palau time. 

Figure 11 Typical configuration of a reef temperature transect. 

15
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

T1 + A7 + C2 Falcon Reef 

7o

 22.424’ N 134 o 23.232’ E 45m Total Depth 

First Good: 8 Sep 2003, 14:00:00 

Last Good: 3 Jan 2004, 14:30:00 

Depth Instrument Serial Filename 

(LAT) 

T1i6 1.9m SBE39T 0935 09350401.asc 

T1i5 2.9m SBE39T 0929 09290401.asc 

T1i4 C2 5.1m SBE16CT 2127 21270401.hex 

T1i3 8.2m SBE39T 0920 09200401.asc 

T1i2 A7 11.3m Nobska 10046 10046.bin 

T1i1 19.4m SBE39T 0934 09340401.asc 

T16 T15 T14 T13 T12 T11 

Deployment depth(m) 2.5 3.5 6 9 14.5 20 

Malakal slv 1.13 1.06 1.00 0.74 1.82 0.72 

Recovery depth(m) 3.7 4.7 6.9 10 13.1 21.4 

Malakal slv 1.82 1.83 1.831.83 1.85 1.85 

LAT = depth-slv 1.9 2.9 5.1 8.2 11.3 19.4 

T2 + A8 + C4 Lighthouse Toachel Ra Kesebekuu 

07°16.955’N, 134°27.932’E 30m Total Depth 

First Good: 31 Aug 2003, 16:00:00 

Last Good: 31 Dec 2003, 08:00:00 

Depth Instrument Serial Filename 

(LAT) 

T2i6 1.3m SBE39T 925 09250801.asc 

T2i5 C4 1.5m SBE16CT 2124 21240301.asc 

T2i4 5.1m SBE39T 933 09330801.asc 

T2i3 9.2m SBE39T 1054 10540801.asc 

T2i2 21.6m SBE39T 1052 10520801.asc 

T2i1 A8 27.7m RDI 3228 pal02000.000 

T26 T25 T24 T23 T22 T21 

Deployment depth(m) 1 2.5 5 10 20 30 

Malakal slv 1 0.97 0.95 0.93 0.92 2.29 

Recovery depth(m) 3.1 2.7 6.9 11 23.4 -

Malakal slv 1.81 1.86 1.83 1.83 1.82 1.85 

LAT = depth-slv 1.3 1.5 5.1 9.2 21.6 27.7 

16
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

T3 Rock Islands, inside channel 

7o 19.570’ N 134 o 29.418 E 19m To l ta Depth 

First Good: 29 Aug 2003, 15:30:00 

Last Good: 30 Dec 200 3, 15:00:00 

thDep Instrument Serial Filename 

(LAT) 

T3i5 1.0m SBE39T 5510 10550301 .asc

T3i4 1.9m SBE39T 5801 10583112 .asc

T3i3 4.3m SBE39T 6760 06763112 .asc

T3i2 8.9m SBE39T 0675 06753112.asc 

T3i1 18.9m SBE39T 1057 10573112.asc 

T35 T34 T33 T32 T31 

Recovery depth(m) 2.6 3.5 5.9 10.5 20.5 

Malakal slv 1.65 1.65 1.65 1.64 1.63 

L AT = depth-slv 1.0 1.9 4.3 8.9 18.9 

T4 Rock Islands, Nikko Lake 

7o 22’.424 N 134 o 23’.232 E 19.7m Total Depth 

First Good: 30 Aug 2003, 18:00:00 

Last Good: 30 Dec 2003, 15:30:00 

DepthInstrument Serial Filename 

T4i5 0.9m SBE39T 1059 10593112.asc 

T4i4 1.1m SBE39T 1051 10513112.asc 

T4i3 3.9m SBE39T 1061 10613112.asc 

T4i2 9.3m SBE39T 1060 10603112.asc 

T4i1 16.2m SBE39T 1053 10533112.asc 

T45 T44 T43 T42 T41 

Deployment depth(m) 1 2.5 5 10.6 17.6 

Malakal slv 1.48 1.45 1.38 1.34 1.26 

Recovery depth(m) 2.4 2.6 5.4 10.8 17.6 

Malakal slv 1.52 1.51 1.50 1.50 1.49 

LAT = depth-slv 0.9 1.1 3.9 9.3 16.1 

17
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

T5 + A5 + C5 U helbeluu (de c epwater mooring) 

07°15.545’N 134° 33.167 E 124m Total Depth 

First Good: 17 Sep 2003, 12:00:00 

Last Good: 13 Jan 2004, 14:00:00 

Depth Instrument Serial Filename 

(LAT) 

T5i6 C5 150m SBE16 2125 21251401.hex Bad data 

T5i5 160m SBE39PT 1062 10621401.asc 

T5i4 170m SBE39T 931 09311401.asc 

T5i3 190m SBE39T 923 09231401.asc 

T5i2 A5 215m RDI 412 Pal09000.000 

T5i1 225m SBE39T 927 09271401.asc 

 Sounder t55 t52 

Deployment depth(m) 126m 1100 17 /9/03 159.5 215 

Malakal slv 1.9m 1.9 1.9 

LAT = depth-slv 124 157.6 213 

18
 
Figure 12 T5 Mooring design. 

19
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

T6 + C1 Central Philippine Sea – West Reef flat 

7o

 16.955’ N 134 o 27.932’ E 16 m Total Depth 

First Good: 12 Sep 2003, 11:00:00 

Last Good: 14 Jan 2004, 11:00:00 

Depth Instrument Serial Filename 

T6i5 1m SBE39T 1137 Not recovered 

T6i4 3m SBE39T 928 09281401.asc 

T6i3 C1 5.5m SBE16 2123 21231401.hex 

T6i2 10.5m SBE39T 917 09171401.asc 

T6i1 22.5m SBE39T 924 09241401.asc 

T65 T64 T63 T62 T61 

Deployment depth(m) 3 4.5 7 12 24 

Malakal slv 2.00 1.82 1.96 1.91 1.89 

Recovery depth(m) - 5.3 7.5 12.5 24.5 

Malakal slv - 1.96 1.96 1.96 1.96 

LAT = depth-slv 1 3 5.5 10.5 22.5 

T7 + B3 Southern Rock Islands 

7o 16.955’ N 134 o 27.932’ E 16 m Total Depth 

First Good: 2 Sep 2003, 10:00:00 

Last Good: 2 Jan 2004, 15:30:00 

Depth Instrument Serial Filename 

T7i5 0.2m SBE39T 1056 10560301.asc 

T7i4 1.5m SBE39T 0926 9260301.asc 

T7i3 3.7m SBE39T 0919 09190903.asc 

T7i3b B3 3.7m XR420 10093 100931103.dat 

T7i3c 3.7m SBE39T 0732 From T7i1 

T7i2 11.3m SBE39T 0930 09300301.asc 

T7i1 16.0m SBE39T 0732 07320401.asc 

n.b., 23 Sep, 2003 SBE39 #0919 replaced with Brancker XR420 #10093 

n.b., 5 Nov, 2003 Brancker XR420 #10093 replaced with SBE39 #0732 from 19m into the 3.8m position. 

T75 T74 T73 T73b T73c T72 T71 

Deployment depth(m) 1.5 3.0 6.0 5.0 - 12.0 18.0 

Malakal slv 2.0 2.05 2.03 1.26 - 2.00 1.96 

Recovery depth(m) 2.0 3.3 5.0 - 5.5 13.2 -

Malakal slv 1.83 1.83 1.28 - 1.84 1.86 -

LAT = depth-slv 0.2 1.5 3.7 3.7 3.7 11.3 16.0 

20
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

T8 Ulong East Channel 

7o

 16’.621 N 134 o 18’.802 E 42m Total Depth 

First Good: 23 Sep 2003, 09:00:00 

Last Good: 13 Jan 2004, 12:30:00 

Depth Instrument Serial Filename 

T8i6 4m SBE39T 918 09181401.asc 

T8i5 4.2m XR420 10092 0100921401.dat 

T8i4 8m SBE39T 932 09321401.asc 

T8i3 13m SBE39T 922 09221401.asc 

T8i2 23m SBE39T 921 09211401.asc 

T8i1 43m SBE39T 916 09161401.asc 

n.b., top logger was 6m at high water from diver obs. 0818 23/9/03 

Use tide gauge for final datum adjustment

 T8 

Deployment depth(m) 43m 1135 22/9/03 

Malakal slv 0.93 

LAT = depth-slv 42m 

Figure 13 T8 mooring design. 

21
 
Instruments and Processing 

This section provides internet links to descriptions of each of the instruments by the 

manufacturer. Specifications and capabilities are outlined. The sheets can be obtained 

from the manufacturers’ websites directly through the links and are also included on the 

companion archive DVD-ROM of this report. See Appendix N for a description of 

where they are located. 

Calibrations 

The calibration information for each instrument is contained within the headers of the 

binary and ASCII files directly downloaded from the instrument. 

The current meters are acoustic and are difficult to calibrate in the field. The point 

current meters can, in general, be placed in a flow tank for calibration; however, such a 

facility was not available. As the Nobska point current meters had not been previously 

deployed, they were placed in a water bath for calibration to a zero flow reading. They 

were subsequently placed off the wharf at PICRC on short deployments (one tidal cycle) 

to gain confidence in the readings. 

The tide gauges and most of the SBE39 temperature loggers were less than 12 months old 

and so the calibrations supplied by the manufacturer were assumed to still be valid. The 

Brancker tide gauges initially had unacceptably large clock drift, due to a poor batch of 

electronic chips. These instruments were replaced in time for the field programme. 

Temperature inter-calibrations were undertaken after deployment to check the 

consistency of the instruments with each other. After recovery, the instruments collected 

that day were placed together in the ocean water outside of PICRC, usually overnight. 

They were then brought inside an air-conditioned room and placed in a water bath for a 

number of hours in order for the temperature to equilibrate. This ensured a reasonable 

temperature range for any linear adjustment, if found to be necessary. 

Plots of all the temperatures collected from all the loggers have been made and are shown 

in Appendix G. By grouping them from the same mooring or transect, an effective intercalibration can be made during well-mixed periods. The best period for this was late 

November as the water cooled by at least one degree Celsius from near bleaching 

conditions. The temperatures converge and track down together until more benign 

weather conditions prevailed, allowing stratification to re-establish. 

Of all the instruments, only two look anomalous; both were on the T2 transect. The 

deepest instrument, at 30.6m (red line), was the ADCP A8 and its temperature record 

indicates slightly higher readings than instruments above it. A linear correction in this 

case should be adequate. The second anomalous instrument was SBE39, serial number 

1054. It was located at a depth of 9m and shows significantly higher readings than 

instruments above and below it. It appears a linear correction will also suffice in this 

case. 

22
 
The SBE16CT logger called C5 and T5i6 only worked intermittently, so care should be 

taken when using this record. For this reason, it was not included in the consolidated 

mooring plot of temperatures. The data plot for this instrument is shown with the 

conductivity loggers in Appendix J. 

Data Processing
 

Data processing algorithms are described here using flow charts (pp. 24-34). 

23
 
 

Current Meters 

RD Instruments ADCP http://www.rdinstruments.com/sen.html 

Program rdi2standard.m 

Converts to structure into 

standardized variables 

Program adcp_crop.m 

Crops to appropriate top bin 

Program adcp_plot.m 

Plots Time-Series Data 

MATLAB file *.mat 

(e.g., S1i1.mat) 

MATLAB file *.mat 

(e.g., adcpscts1.mat) 

MATLAB file *.mat 

(e.g., S1i1uvm.mat) 

Program rdi2struct.m 

Converts binary *.000 

to *.mat structure 

Program tsl_consol.m 

Temperature, salinity, 

sealevel consolidation 

Calls on program 

get_location.m 

Calls on program 

rdradcp.m 

Calls on programs 

uvwplots.m 

rcmplotsADCP.m 

Instrument Output 

ADCP Binary File *.000 

 (e.g., SCTS1000.000) 

All Bins Top Bin Bottom Bin 

 Image Graph Time-Series Graph Time-Series Graph 

 [*.emf & *.fig & *.jpg] [*.emf & *.fig & *.jpg] [*.emf & *.fig & *.jpg] 

(e.g., S1adcp.fig) (e.g., S1top.fig) (e.g., S1bottom.fig) 

24
 
 

Nortek Aquapro current profiler http://www.nortekusa.com/acp.html 

Instrument output Instrument output 

ADCP Data File *.prf ADCP Deployment File *.dep 

 (e.g., 79430301.prf) (e.g., 79430301.dep) 

Program Aquapro 

Converts binary *.prf to physical units 

ASCII header *.hdr 

(e.g., 79430301.hdr) 

ASCII sensor data *.sen 

(e.g., 79430301.sen) 

Beam 1 Velocity *.v1 

(e.g., 79430301.v1) 

Beam 1 Amplitude *.a1 

(e.g., 79430301.a1) 

Beam 1 Velocity *.v2 

(e.g., 79430301.v2) 

Beam 1 Amplitude *.a2 

(e.g., 79430301.a2) 

Beam 1 Velocity *.v3 

(e.g., 79430301.v3) 

Beam 1 Amplitude *.a3 

(e.g., 79430301.a3) 

Program aqdpprof2mat.m 

Converts to structure into 

standardized variables 

Calls on program 

get_location.m 

MATLAB file *.mat 

(e.g., EH1.mat) 

Program adcp_crop.m 

Crops to appropriate top bin 

Program adcp_plot.m 

Plots Time-Series Data 

MATLAB file *.mat 

(e.g., EH1uvm.mat) 

Program tsl_consol.m 

Temperature, salinity, 

sealevel consolidation 

Calls on programs 

uvwplots.m 

rcmplotsADCP.m 

All Bins Top Bin Bottom Bin 

 Image Graph Time-Series Graph Time-Series Graph 

 [*.emf & *.fig & *.jpg] [*.emf & *.fig & *.jpg] [*.emf & *.fig & *.jpg] 

(e.g., EH1adcp.fig) (e.g., EH1top.fig) (e.g., EH1bottom.emf) 

25
 
 

Nortek Aquadopp current meter http://www.nortekusa.com/acm.html 

Instrument output 

AquaDopp Data File *.aqd 

 (e.g., S5Scot01.aqd) 

Program ExploreAQD 

Converts binary *.aqd to physical units 

ASCII header *.hdr 

(e.g., S5Scot01.hdr) 

ASCII data *.dat 

(e.g., S5Scot01.dat) 

Diagnostics file *.dia 

(e.g., S5Scot01.dia) 

Program aqdp2mat.m 

Converts *.dat to *.mat 

Trims to in-water time 

Program current_plot.m 

Plots temperature 

& depth (if present) 

Time Series Plots 

[*.emf & *.fig & *.jpg] 

(e.g., SCE1uv.fig) 

MATLAB file *.mat 

(e.g., SCE1uv.mat) 

Program tsl_consol.m 

Temperature, salinity, 

sealevel consolidation 

Calls on program 

get_location.m 

Calls on program 

rcmplots2003.m 

26
 
 

Nobska MAVS-3 http://www.nobska.net/ 

Program Simple Term
 

(STGold.exe)
 Download data from Nobska 

MAVS-3
 

Program Nobska2mat.m 

Converts *.bin to *.mat 

Trims to in-water time 

Program nobska_plot.m 

Plots temperature 

& depth (if present) 

Instrument Output 

ASCII header and data *.bin 

(e.g., 10046.bin) 

MATLAB file *.mat 

(e.g., A7i1uvwt.mat) 

Program tsl_consol.m 

Temperature, salinity, 

sealevel consolidation 

Calls on program 

get_location.m 

Calls on program 

nobplts2003.m 

Time Series Plots Time Series Plots 

[*.emf & *.fig & *.jpg] [*.emf & *.fig & *.jpg] 

(e.g., a7tsdc.fig) (e.g., a7tuvw.jpg) 

27
 
 

 

 

Interocean S4 http://www.interoceansystems.com/s4main.htm 

Instrument Output 

S4 Binary File *.s4b 

 (e.g., 6320603.s4b) 

Program cmapp.bat 

InterOcean Systems S4 

Current Meter Application 

Software Version 2.72
 

Program s4mat2.m 

Converts *.s4a to *.mat 

Trims to in-water time 

Program current_plot.m 

Plots temperature 

& depth (if present) 

ASCII header and data *.s4a 

(e.g., 6320603.s4a) 

MATLAB file *.mat 

(e.g., S10i3uv.mat) 

Program tsl_consol.m 

Temperature, salinity, 

sealevel consolidation 

Calls on program 

get_location.m 

Calls on program 

rcmplots2003.m 

Time Series Plots 

[*.emf & *.fig & *.jpg] 

(e.g., S10uv.fig) 

28
 
 

 

 

Tide Gauge 

Brancker XR-420 TD http://www.rbr-global.com/XR-420TG.htm 

Program Rbr4w20.exe 

Download and conversion 

to physical 

Instrument Output 

ASCII header and data *.dat 

(e.g., 0100920401.dat) 

Program Brancker2mat.m Calls on program Converts *.asc file to set of get_location.m MATLAB variables 

MATLAB file *.mat

 (b2tl.mat) 

Program tsl_consol.m 

Temperature, salinity, 

sealevel consolidation 

Calibration File 

(e.g., cal10092.mat) 

Program temp_plot.m 

Plots temperature & depth 

Time Series Plots 

[*.emf & *.fig & *.jpg] 

(e.g., b2tl.fig) 

29
 
 

 

Conductivity Logger 

SBE16 http://www.seabird.com/products/spec_sheets /16plusdata.htm 

Instrument Output 

SBE 16 Binary File *.hex 

 (e.g., 21260603.hex) 

Program Seaterm 

binary *.hex 

to ASCII *.cnv file 

Program sb16mat.m 

Converts *.cnv file to set 

of MATLAB variables 

Program ct_plot.m 

Plots temperature and 

salinity 

MATLAB file *.mat 

(e.g., s10i1ct.mat) 

ASCII header and data *.cnv 

(e.g., 21260603.cnv) 

Program tsl_consol.m 

Temperature, salinity, 

sealevel consolidation 

Calls on programs 

get_location.m 

sw_dens.m 

Time Series Plots 

[*.emf & *.fig & *.jpg] 

(e.g., S10ct.fig) 

Calls on program 

densder.m 

30
 
 

 

 

Temperature Loggers 

SBE39 http://www.seabird.com/products/spec_sheets/39data.htm 

Instrument output 

Raw Data from SBE 39 logger 

(e.g., 10520603.raw) 

Program sb39mat.m 

Converts *.asc file to set of 

MATLAB variables 

Program temp_plot.m 

Plots temperature 

& depth (if present) 

MATLAB file *.mat

 (e.g., S10i4t.mat) 

ASCII header and data *.asc 

(e.g., 10520603.asc) 

Program tsl_consol.m 

Temperature, salinity, 

sealevel consolidation 

Calibration File 

(e.g., cal1052.mat) 

Program Seaterm 

binary to ascii 

conversion to physical 

Calls on program 

get_location.m 

Time Series Plots 

[*.emf & *.fig & *.jpg] 

(e.g., S10i4t.fig) 

Time Series Plots 

[*.emf & *.fig & *.jpg] 

(e.g., S10tsl.fig) 

31
 
 

CTD Profiler 

SBE19 http://www.seabird.com/products/spec_sheets/19plusdata.htm 

Instrument output 

CTD Binary File *.hex 

 (e.g. 1909000.hex) 

Catalogue File 

castdata.dat 

Program scott2003ctdp 

Converts 

lot.m

 structure into 

ed variables 

to 

standardiz 

ASCII file *.cnv 

(e.g. 19090001.cn v) 

Program SBEDataProcessing-Win32 

Converts binary *.hex to *.cnv ASCII 

Calls on program 

cnv2mat2.m 

pressure.m 

sw_dens.m 

densder.m 

tsdiagram.m 

floa tAx isXX.m 

MATLAB file *.mat CTD Plot *.fig CTD Plot *.emf 

(e.g. 1909000.mat) (e.g. 1909000.fig) (e.g. 1909000.emf) 

32
 
 

 

 

Weather Station
 

Campbell Scientific http://www.campbellsci.com/
 

This measures wind speed, direction, air temperature, photosynthetically active radiat ion 

(PAR), short wave radiation. 

Relative humidity: http://www.campbellsci.com/tem p_rh.html 

Solar radiation sensors: http://www.campbellsci.com/solarrad.html#li190sb 

http://env.licor.com/Products/Sensors/rad.htm 

Instrument Output 

Campbell Scientific
 

Portable weather station
 

Program PC200W 

Download data & 

conversion to physical 

Program Aimswxp2mat.m 

Converts *.dat file to set of

 MATLAB variables 

Program aimswx_plot.m 

Plots the weather data 

MATLAB file *.mat 

(e.g., awx1.mat) 

ASCII header and data *.dat 

(e.g., Palau01.dat) 

Calls on program 

get_location.m 

Time Series Plots Time Series Plots 

[*.emf & *.fig & *.jpg] [*.emf & *.fig & *.jpg] 

(e.g., awx1uv.fig) (e.g., awx2uv.fig) 

33
 
 

 

NOAA National Weather Service, Palau 

(data acquired from National Climatic Data Center, http://www.ncdc.noaa.gov/ ) 

Acquired Data 

NOAA Palau
 

HAS000102121d3appp_op.txt 

Program ws2ma 

Converts *.d t file to set 

Program ReadNWS.m 

Reformat to MATLAB format 

n t.m 

a of 

MATLAB variables 

MATLAB file *.mat

 (e.g., N aa94.o t)ma

ASCII header and data *.dat 

(e.g., NWS94.dat) 

C s on m all progra 

get_location.m 

Program aimswx_plot.m 

Plo s the t weather data

Time Series Plots Time Series Plots*.jpg 

[*.emf & *.fig & *.jpg] (e.g., awx1.jpg) 

(e.g., awx1.fig) 

34
 
Notable events 

The principle goal was to observe bleaching-like conditions whilst laying the foundation 

for establishing a quality observational dataset to aid in etting s up numerical m odels. 

Bleaching-like conditions developed over the period between late October and late 

November 2003. A general warming and stratification of the waters is evident in the 

mooring and transect summary plots in Appendix G. The plots are similar in the heating, 

stratification and subsequent cooling through this period. Winds were low during this 

warming trend, assisting the intensificati on of the surface warming. The winds then 

increased and were, in part, responsible for the subseq uent cooling in late October and 

November. 

Acronyms and Instrument Notations 

A Current meter 

AIMS Australian Institute o f Marine Science 

ADCP Acoustic Doppler Current Profile r 

B Tide gauge 

BT Bottom Tracking 

C Conductivity meter 

CT Conductivity and Tempe rature 

CTD Conductivity, Temperature and Depth 

CRRF Coral Reef Research Foundation 

LAT Lowest Astronomic al Tide 

NOAA National Oceanic and Atmosph eric Administration 

P Pressure sensor 

PICRC Palau International C oral Reef Research Center 

RI Rock Islands 

RDI RD Instruments – manufacturer o f ADCPs 

S4 Interocean S4 curre nt meter 

S16 SBE 16 CT logger 

S39 SBE 39 logger 

SBE Sea Bird Electronics 

T Temperature logger or transect 

TNC The Nature Conservancy 

UoG University of Guam 

WX Weather Station 

35
 
References 

Bruno J.F., Siddon C.E., Witman J.D., Colin P.L. and Toscano M.A. (2001) El Nino 

related coral bleach ing in Palau, Western Caroline Islands. Coral Reefs 20:127-136. 

Colin P.L. (2000) Water temperature on t he Palauan Reef tract: Year 2000. Technical 

Report No. 1, Coral Reef Research F oundation, Koror, Palau. 

Penland L., Kloulechad J, Idip D., Van Woesik R. (2004) Coral spawning in the western 

Pacific O cean is related to solar insolation:evidence of multiple spawning events in 

Palau. Coral Reefs 23:133-140. 

Wilkinson, C.R. (Ed.) (2002) Status of Co ral Ree s of f the World: 2002. Global Coral

Reef Monitoring Network, Australian Institute of Marine Science. Townsville, Australia, 

2002. 

36
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Appendix A – Daily Schedule 

Deployment, AIMS Trip#3553 24 Aug - 18 Sep 2003 

Personnel 

Wed 20 Aug 

Sun 24 Aug 

Mon 25 Aug 

Tue 26 Aug 

Wed 27 Aug 

Thu 28 Aug 

Fri 29 Aug 

Sat 30 Aug 

Sun 31 Aug 

Mon 1 Sep 

Tue 2 Sep 

Wed 3 Sep 

Thu 4 Sep 

Fri 5 Sep 

Sat 6 Sep 

Sun 7 Sep 

Severine Choukroun, Cary McLean, Craig Steinberg (AIMS) 

Scott Heron, William Skirving (NOAA) 

Freight sent from AIMS 

AIMS personnel travel Townsville – Cairns 

NOAA personnel travel Washington DC – Guam 

AIMS pers onnel travel Cairns – G a uam – Pal u 

NOAA personnel travel Guam – Palau 

Pick up freight, meet and greet, find accommodation 

Setup lab 

Pat Colin, CRRF shows us around rock islands and lighthouse, check out TNC boat 

T3 5 SBE39 

B1a Brancker XR420 

A11 ADCP 600kHz 

T4 5 SBE39 

A8 ADCP 600kHz BTPW 

T2 4 SBE39

C4 SBE16CT 

 Complete A8

 A2 S4 

 Recover B1a 

B1 Brancker XR420 

 Setup instruments 

T7 5 SBE39 

10083
 

1673 

3228 

2124 

615 

10079 

A4 RDIADCP 300kHz BT 584 

A12 Nortek Aquadopp CRRF 

 Setup instruments 

Severine departs 0145 Palau – Guam. 

Setup instruments and bathymetry sounder 

1400 Presentation to Palau Govt & groups 

A10 ADCP 1200kHz UoG 1292 

 B2 SBE39PT
 

A13 Nortek Aquapro CRRF 0866 

20m RI inside channel 

4m RI northern reef opening in 2.5m hole 

25m RI northern channel entrance 

18m RI Nikko Lake 

30m Lighthouse Toachel Ra Kesebekuu 

30m Lighthouse Toachel Ra Kesebekuu 

2.5m Lighthouse Toachel Ra Kesebekuu 

4m Ngetalau Passage, outside Rock Islands 

4m RI northern reef opening in 2.5m hole 

18m Central Rock Islands, Urukthapel 

30+m Ulong east 

0970 12m RI southern reef opening

17m Toachel Ra Ngel 

4m Reef flat Ngedarrak Reef 

30m NE channel Toachel mid 

Too windy for deployment of Philippine Sea transect 

Craig departs 0030 Palau - Guam 

37
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Mon 8 Sep	 T1 4 SBE39 20m Falcon Reef 

C2 SBE16CT 2127 6m Falcon Reef

Tue 9 Sep	 A9 Nortek Aquapro 794 27m Malakal Harbo ur pincers 

C3 SBE16CT 2126 3m Malakal Harbo ur pincers 

Wed 10 Sep	 Setup instruments 

Thu 11 Sep	 Wil liam departs 

Perform CT calibration 

Fri 12 Sep	 SetupNobskas and deploy for testing at PICRC 

T6 4 SBE39 20m Philippine Sea – West Reef flat 

C1 SBE16 2123 7m Philippine Sea – West Reef flat 

B5 SBE39PT 760 5m Central Philippine Sea – East Reef 

Sat 13 Sep	 Rec over Nobskas an d compare da ta 

A3 Nobska 10045 16m Ulong west 

Sun 14 Sep	 Setup instruments 

Mon 15 Sep	 A7 Nobska 10046 25m Falcon Reef - lagoon central 

A6 S4 564 30m Paleo Channel - Toachel Mlengui 

Tue 16 Sep	 A1 ADCP 1200kHz 974 25m RI mid channel - Subject to Ada 

Bathymetry logging set up 

Prepare Deep water mooring 

Wed 17 Sep	 A5 RDIADCP 300kHz BTP 412 126m Uchelbeluu – Deep water mooring 

T5 4 SBE39 126m Uchelbeluu – Deep water mooring 

C5 SBE16CT 126m Uchelbeluu – Deep water mooring 

Thu 18 Sep	 Boat maintenance 

Fri 19 Sep	 CTD transect Blue Corner – PICRC 

Sat 20 Sep	 Clean up Koror day 

Sun 21 Sep	 Scott departs 

CTDtransect A2 thr ough SE entrance toshelf edge & north to Toachel mid channel & KB 

Brid ge. 

CTDtransect from A9 Pincers tocentral harbour 

Mon 22 Sep	 T8 5 SBE39 + 1 XR420 43m Ulong East Channel 

Pack up 

Tue 23 Sep Recove r T73 

B4 Brancker XR420 10091 4.5m Ulong Eas t 

B3/T 73b Brancker XR420 10093 5m Central Rock Islands, Urukthapel 

WX Campbell Scientific WX1 Shalom Etpison’s residence 

Wed 24 Sep Cary departs 

38
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Mid-deployment, AIMS Trip# 3585 2 – 9 Nov 2003 

Personnel 

2-12 Nov 

Wed 5 Nov 

Fri 7 Nov 

Wed 12 Nov 

Cary McLean (AIMS)
 

William Skirving, Alan Strong (NOAA) 

Bath ymetry validati on, instrument check and CTD transects 

Rec over B3/T73b 

Move T71 to T73c 

B3b BranckerXR420 

Recover B3b 

B3c Brancker XR420 

Recover B3c 

B6 Brancker XR420 

Check WX 

10093 

10093 

10093 2m
 

 Blue Corner , 1015-1519
 

north of Babeldaob, 0730-1437 

(bathymetry transect 2a) 

Malakal Harbour Tide Gauge
 

Recovery, AIMS Trip # 3587 27 Dec 2003 – 18 Jan 2004
 neerson lP Cary McLean, Craig Steinberg (AIMS) 

Felipe Arzayus, William Skirving, Alan Strong (NOAA) 

Mon 22 Dec Freight sent from AIMS 

Sat 27 Dec Townsville 1315–1410 Cairns QF2308 

Sun 28 Dec Cairns 0135-0610 Guam CO903, Guam 1940-2050 Koror CO953 

Mon 29 Dec Pick up freight & preparation 

Tue 30 Dec Prepare boat and gear, Recover T3, T4, A1, A2 & B1 

Wed 31 Dec Recover A9, C3, B2, C2, C4 & B6 

Thu 01 Jan New Year’s Day 

Fri 02 Jan Recover A3 & T7 

Sat 03 Jan Recover A11, A7, T1 & C2 

Sun 04 Jan Recover A12 

Mon 05 Jan Freight urgent gear to Townsville, Felipe Arzayus arrives & has check out dive 

Tue 06 Jan BlueCorner, Lightho at use channel tempt – storm. 

W ed 07 Jan Dee er mooring (A5+T5+C5 recovery attempt – too rough p wat ) 

Recover A8+T2 

Recover A10 and redeploy as A11b 

A11b ADCP 1200kHz UoG 1292 23m RI Northern channel entrance 

Thu 08 Jan Deep water mooring (A5+T5+C5) recovery attempt – too rough 

A13 recovery attempt – found subsurface buoy. Waypoint not very good today. 

39
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Fri 09 Jan	 Rec over A13, A4, B4 & WX 

Presentations to Wo rld Bank 

“Developm ent of CRW Products: Prediction and mapping with the use of hydrodynamic 

models and satellite data” William Skirving, Craig Steinberg, Scott Heron, AlanStrong, 

Cary McLean 

“NOAA’s Coral Reef Watch – An Update” Alan Strong 

Sat 10 Jan Win ds 20-25kts from NE. Lab day 

Sun 11 Jan	 Winds still 20-25kts from NE. Lab day. Pat Colin arrives 

Recover A11b 

A11c Nortek Aquapro CRRF 0866 23m RI Northern channel entrance 

A14 ADCP 1200kHz UoG 1292 4m Japanese Channel 

Mon 12 Jan	 Recover A6 with Alma Ridep-Morris team 

Tue 13 Jan	 Recover B5, T8, A14 & A5+T5+C5 

Wed 14 Jan Rec over T6 & C1 

Pack up 

Thu 15 Jan Felipe leaves 0230 

Fri 16 Jan Freight gear 

Sat 17 Jan Pack up accommodation 

Sun 18 Jan Rem ining personnel travel Koro a 

Mon 19 Jan Cairns 1005-1100 Townsville 

Thu 5 Feb Recover A11c (Pat Colin) 

r 0115-0530 Guam, Gua m 1955-1235 Cairns 

40
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Appendix B – T ide gauge deployment information 

B1a RI northern reef opening in 2.5m hole, off Toirius Island 

In strument: Brancker XR-420-TG, 10083 

(serial no.) 

Capability: M aximum depth 90m pressure sensor, temperature sensor 

Location: 07°19.821’N 134°28.878’E 

Sampling : 5 minute sampling interval, 6 0 second averaging interval 

Filename : 0 10083test.dat 

All times listedas local time UTC+9. 

Switch on: 102930 30/08/03 

Time check : 0839 30/08/03 

In water: 1 050 30/08/03

in posn : 1057 30/08/03 

First good: -

Last in posn : -

Out of water : 1 102 01/09/03 

Switch off 

Comments : T ime drift of logger, gained sec in 53 hours ! Withdrawn 59 

B1 RI northern reef opening in 2.5m hole, off Toirius Island 

Instrument : Brancker XR-420-TG, 10079 

(serial no.) 

Capability : Maximum depth 90m pressure sensor, temperature sensor 

Location : 07°19.821’N 134°28.878’E 

Sampling : 5 minute sampling interval, 60 second averaging interval 

Filename : 0100790301.dat 

All times listed as local time UTC+9. 

Switch on: 102930 31/08/03 

Time check: 072421 01/09/03 

In water: 1050 01/09/03 

in posn : 1100 01/09/03 4.1m 

First good: 1100 01/09/03 01-Sep-2003 11:00:00 

Last good : 03-Nov-2003 00:05:00 

Last in posn : 

Out of water : 1432 30/12/03 

Switch off 

Comments : Flat battery 3.0V, clock lost time so no time off available 

5.6% memory used 18K readings, 2 months 

B2 Reef flat, Ngederrak Reef 

Instrument: SBE39PT Pressure & Temperature logger, #0759 

(serial no.) 

41
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Capability : Pressure and Temperature, 230K samples 

Location : 07°17.472’N, 134°28.282’E, 1.9m 

Sampling : Sampling Interval 5 min 

Filenam e : 07590301.asc 

All times listed as local time UTC+9. 

Time 

Switch on: 1500 03/09/03 

In water: 

in posn : 1208 05/09/03 05-Sep-2003 12:30:00 1.9m 

First good: 

Last in posn : 0752 31/12/03 31-Dec-2003 07:30:00 

Out of water : 

Switch off 1055 03/01/04 35087 Samples 

Logger 1 second slow 

Comments :	 Lionfish under rock. Pressure sensor not working properly initially – 

good from 21-S ep-2003 12:0 0: 00 

B3 Central Rock Islands, Urukthapel (T73b) 

Instrument : Brancker XR-420 -TG, 10093
 

(serial no.) 

Capability : Maximum depth 90m pressure sensor, temperature sensor 

Location : 07°16.376’N 134°24.667’E 

Sampling : 5 minute sampling interval, 60 second averaging interval
 

Filename : 100931103.dat 

All times listed as local tim e UTC+9. 

Switch on: 0 0:14:30 3/9/03 

In water: 

in posn : 0849 23/9/03 23-s ep-2003 10:00:00 5m 

First good: 0900 23/9/03 

L ast in posn : 0 900 05/11/03 05­nov-2003 09:00:00 

Filename : B3B 

Location : 7 08.4912',134 17.8275' E ast of Blue Corn er

:First good 1015 5/11/03 

Last good : 1515 5/11/03 

Filename : B3C 

Location : 746.60848, 13 4 35.1582 N orth Babeldaup 

First good : 0730 7/11/03 

L ast good : 1435 7/11/03 

Out of water : 1 437 7/11/03 

S witch Off : 11 22 8/11/2003 

42
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

Comments : Flat battery, clock lost time so no time off available, Clock +15 seconds, 

4.1% mem ory 

B3B 

Moved to Blue cor ner 5/11/03 1015-1519 wpt TIDE Region 13 transect C 

7 08.4912',134 17 .8275' 

B3C 

Moved to north of Babeldaup 7/11/03 0730-1437 Region 2 transect A 

7 46.60848, 13435.1582; the n B6 M alakal Harbour on Nov 5 2003 

Last 2 records look bad 

B4 Ulong East 

Instrument : BranckerXR-420-TG, 10091 

(serial no.) 

C apability : Maximum depth 90m pressure sensor, temperature sensor 

Location : 07°16.621’N 134°18.680’E 4.5 m LAT 

Sampling : 5minute sampling interval, 60 second averaging interval 

Filename : 0100911001.dat 

All times listed as local time UTC+9. 

Switch on: 21443022/09/03

In water:

in posn : 0805 23/09/03 5.5m 

First good: 0805 23/ 09/03 23-Sep-2003 08:1 5:00 

Last in posn : 1017 09/01/04 6.1m 

Out of wat er : 1 9-Dec-2003 20:00:00 

Last recor d: 19-Dec -2003 23:05:00 

Switch off Flat battery 

Comments : F lat battery, clock lost time s no time off available o 

Second deploymen calibration with SBE39PT#732 t for inter 

On @1513 10/1/04 Off @16 05 11/1/04 10091calib.d at

B5 Central Philippine Sea – East Reef (Lagoon side) 

Instrument : 

(serial no.) 

Capability : 

Location :
 

Sampling : 

Filename : 

Switch on: 

In water: 

in posn: 

First good: 

Last in po sn : 

Out of water : 

Last record : 

Switch off : 

SBE39PT Pressure & Temperatu re logger, #0760 

Pressure and Temperature, 230K samples 

07°24.380’N, 134°21.065’E, 5m 

Sampling Interval 5 min 

07601401.asc 

All times listed as local time UTC+9. 

Time 

1500 03/09/03 

1120 12/ 09/03 

1125 12/09/03 

1135 12/09/03 

1030 13/01/04 

1853 14/01/04 

Depth 

5m 12-Sep-2003 12:00:00 

5.8m 

14-Jan-2004 18:44:59 

38351 samples 

43
 
 

 

 

 

 

Logger 2 secs slow 

Comments : Lionfish under rock. 

B6 Malakal Harbour Tide Gauge 

Instrument : Brancker XR-420-TG, 10093 

erial no.) (s 

Capability : Maximumdepth 90m pressure sensor, temperature sensor. 60 sec ave 

Location : 0 7°20.016’N 134°27.429’E 

Sampling : 5 minute sampling interval, 6 0 second averaging interval 

Filename : 0100930301.dat 

All times listed as local time UTC+9. 

Switch on: 1230 08/11/03 Fromfile header 

Time check: 

In water: 0859 12/11/03 

in posn : 

:First good 0915 12/11/03 12-Nov -2003 10:00:00 

Last good : 20-Dec-2003 04 :00:00 

Out of water : 0853 31/12/03 ~2m 

Last record : 2 0-Dec-2003 04:45:30 

Switch off 

Comments : Flat battery, clock lost time so no time off available 

3.7% memory used 12K readings, 1.5 months 

Moved from B3 in November 

44
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Appendix C – C urrent meter deployment information 

A1 Rock Islands, mid channel 

Instrument : 

(serial no.) 

Capability : 

Location :
 

Sampling : 

Filename : 

Switch on: 

In water: 

inposn : 

First good: 

Last in p osn : 

Out of water : 

Switch off: 

Comments : 

ADCP 1200kHz , #0974 

40M card 

07°19.786’N, 134°29.637’E,24.2m
 

15min ensembles, continuou s; 1 44 pings/ensemble, 24*1m bins, 

SD=0.26cm/s 

pal08000.000 

All times listed as local time UTC+9. 

09523016/09/03

1140 16/09/03

1155 16/09/03 

1230 16/09/03 

1614 30/12/03 

1033 31/12/03 

Logger 1:04 fast 

24.2m

16-Sep-2003 12:30:00 

30-Dec-2003 16:00:00, 23.8m 

10178 ensembles 

A2 Ngetalau Passage, outside Rock Islands 

Instrument : Interocean S4 curr ent meter, #615 

(serial no.) 

Capability : 20 Mb RAM, hi gh resolution ure sensor draws 49mA no Temp press 

Location : 07°19.315’N, 134°29.400’E, 4m 

Sampling : 1min average every 30 minu tes 

Filename : 6 150903.s4a s 6150903.su etup 

All times listed as lo l time UTC+9. ca 

S witch on: 1500 01/09/03 

In water: 1600 01/09/03 

in posn : 1610 01/09/03 4m 

First good: 1630 01/09/03 01-Sep-200 3 16:30:00 

L ast in posn : 1642 30/12/03 30-Dec-2003 16:30:00 3.7m 

O ut of water : 

Switch off: 1015 31/12/03 

No clock drift 

Comments : 

A3 Ulong W est 

Instrument : Nobska , #100 45 – UoG (Bob Richmond) 

(serial no.) 

Capability : UVW velocity component output, temperature, conductivity 

Location : 07°18.293’N, 134°16.726’E, 20m 

Sampling : 120 measurements at 2Hz av eraged (1min sampling) eve ry 15min 

45
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Filename : 10045.txt 

All tim es listed as lo cal time UTC+9. 

Switch on: 1030 13/09/03 

In water: 1 250 13/09/03

inposn : 1 310 13/09/03 20m 

First good: 

L ast in posn : 1 432 02/01/04 2 0.7m 

Out of water :

L ast Read: 

Comments : Subsurface buoy 5m 

A4 Ulong East 

Instrument :	 RDI ADCP 300kHz, #584 BT 

(serial no.) 

Capability : 48M card Bottom tracking, No Pressure and temperature 

Location :	 07°16.617’N, 134°18.716’E, 30m 

Sampling : 15min ensembles, continuous; 18*2m bins, SD =0.61cm/s, 6M mem – 140
 

days
 

Filename :	 pal03000.000 

All tim es listed as lo cal time UTC+9. 

Switch on: 185230 01/09/03 01-Sep-2003 19:00:00 

In water: 1100 02/09/03 

in posn : 1115 02/09/03 30+m 

First good: 1130 02/09/03 02-Sep-2 003 11:30:00 

Last in posn : 1025 09/01/04 09-Jan-2004 10:00:00 33.1m 

Out of water : 

Last Read: 1141 10/01/04 12546 ensembles, 12530 works 

10-Jan-2004 07:15:00 

Logger 59 seconds fast 

Comments : Subsurface buoy at 7°16.621'N, 134°18.6 80'E 

A5 Uchelbeluu (deepwater moori ng) 

Instrument :	 RDI ADCP 300kHz, #412BTP 

(serial no.) 

Capability : Bottom Tracking, Temperature and Pressure 

Location :	 07°15.545’N, 1 34°33.167’E, "215m" on 126m mooring 

Sampling :	 15min ensembles, continuou s; 2 3*5m bins, SD=0.33cm/s, 10M mem in 

170 days 

Filename : pal09000.000 

All tim es listed as lo cal time UTC+9. 

Switch on: 082230 17/09/03 

In water: 1045 17/09/03

inposn : 1100 17/09/03 

First good: 1115 17/09/03 17-Sep-2003 11:30:00 

Last in posn : 1445 13/01/04 13-Jan-2004 14:45:00 

Popped: 1450 13/01/04 

46
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Out of water : 1505 13/01/04 

Last Read: 2210 14/01/04 11479 ensem bles 

Logger 40 seconds slow 

Comments : with T5,C5, Acoustic Release #445 (13.5 B/D)
 

A6 Paleo Channel – Toachel Mlengui (West Passage) 

Instrument : 

(serial no.) 

Capability : 

Location :
 

Sampling :
 

Filename : 

Switch on: 

In water: 

inposn : 

First good: 

Last in posn : 

Out ofwater : 

Last Read: 

Comments : 

S4, #564 

Temper ature and pressure. 

07°28.927’N, 134 °27.776’E, 33m 

1min sampling every 30 min utes 

5640104.s4a 5640903 .su 

All tim es listed as lo cal time UTC+9. 

1330 04/09/03

0930 15/09/03 

0938 15/09/03 

1000 15/09/03 

1028 12/01/04 

0830 05/02/04 

30.0m 

15-Sep-2003 10:00:00 

12-Jan-2004 10:00:00 32.5m

Comms box didn’t work – downloa ded later in Darwin ! 

A7 Falcon Reef 

Instrument : Nobska , #10046 – UoG (Bob Richm ond) 

(serial no.) 

Capability : UVW velocity com ponent output, temperature 

ocation : L 0 7°22.445’N, 134°23.177’E, 14.5m

Sampling : 120 measurements at 2Hz averaged (1min sampling) 

Filename : 10046.txt 

All tim es listed as lo l time UTC+9. ca 

Switch on: 1030 13/09/03 

In water: 1129 15/09/03 

in posn : 1145 15/09/03 

First good: 

Last in posn : 1 507 03/01/04 1 3.1m 

Out of water :

Last Read: Flat battery 

Comments : with transect T1 

 every 15min 

A8 Lighthouse Channel 

Instrument : RDI ADCP 600kHz, #3228 

(serial no.) 

Capability : Bottom tracking, pressure and temperature 

47
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Location :
 

Sampling : 

Filename : 

Switch on: 

In water: 

in posn : 

First good: 

Last in posn : 

Out of water : 

Switch off: 

Comments :
 

07°16.955’N, 134°27.932’E, 30m 

15min ensembles, continuous; 150 pings/ensemble, 35*1m bins, 10M card

Pal02000.000 setup pal02.whp 

All times listed as local time UTC+9. 

120730 31/08/03 

1600 31/08/03 

0940 01/09/03 

1000 01/09/03

0825 07/01/04 

1411 08/01/04 

Logger 2 mins 13 sec fast 

01-Sep-2003 10:00:00 

07-Jan-2004 08:00:00 

10Mb d ata 12488 

with T2; strong tid al currents – didn't complete deploy until next day. 

Internal clock is Australi an E ast ern Standard Time (UTC+10hr), so 1 hour 

fast 

A9 Malakal Harbour pincers 

In strument : Nortek Aquapro, #0794 

(serial no.) 

Capability : 5 0cm blanking distance, 2.1M mem 

Location : 07°20.163’N, 134°25.483’E, 2 7.7m 

Sampling : 1min sampling interval every 15min, 3 0*1m bins, 75 days 

Filename : pal0701.prf setup pal07.dlp 

All times listed as local time UTC+9. 

Switch on: 095930 08/09/0 3

In water: 0855 09/ 09/03 

in posn : 0 910 09/09/03 2 7m

First good : 09-Sep-200 3 10:00:00 

Last good : 2 2-Dec-2003 02:45:00 

Last in posn : 0 716 31/12/03 2 7.2m 

Out of wa ter : 

Switch off: 1 02322 03/01/04 

Loggers 20 seco nds fast

C omments : Subsurface buoy, turnaroundin October 

24 good bins, shorter than deployed record – 75 d ays 

some initial currents high at the bottom 

A10 Toachel ra Ngel (Ngel Channel) 

Instrument : ADCP 1200kHz, #1292 – UoG (Bob Richmond) 

(serial no.) 

Capability : Temperatue and Pressure 

Location : 07° 17.786’N, 134° 28.958’E, 22 m 

Sampling : 15min ensembles, continuous; 180 pings/ensemble, 22*1m bins, 

SD=0.2cm/s 

Filename : pal05000.000 

All times listed as local time UTC+9. 

Switch on: 085230 05/09/03 05-Sep-2003 09:00:00 

48
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In water: 1100 05/09/03 

in posn : 1113 05/09/03 19.3m 

First good: 1130 05/09/03 05-Sep-2003 11:30 :00 

Last in posn : 1310 07/0 1/04 07-Jan-2004 13:00:00 

Out of water : 

Last Read: 

Comments : This instrument was moved to A11b and afterwards to A14 

A11 Rock Islands norther n channel entrance 

Instrument :	 RDI A DCP 600kHz, #1673 

(serial no.) 

Capability : 

Location :	 07°19.400’N, 134°28.949’E,22m 

Sampling : 15min ensemble s, continuou s; 1 50 pings/ensemble, 30*1m bins, 

SD=0.57cm/s, 4 24 Wh, 9.7m , 140 d ays

Filename : No Data s tup pal01.whp e 

All times liste d as lo cal time UTC+9. 

Switch on: 100730 30/08/03 

In water: 1600 30/08/03 

in posn : 1616 30/08/03 

First good: 

Last in posn :	 1613 03/01/04 23.6m 

Out of water : 

Last Read : 1013 07/01/04 No dat a 

Comments :	 No data – battery failed, p ut UoG ADCP#1292 in 7/1/04 

A11b Rock Islands n orthern channel entrance 

Instrument :	 ADCP 1200kHz , #1292 – UoG (Bob Richmond)

(serial no.) 

Capability : Temperatue andPressure 

Location :	 07° 17.786’N, 1 34° 28.958’E , 22 m 

Sampling : 15min ensemble s, continuou s; 180 pings/ense mble, 22*1m bins, 

SD=0.2cm/s 

Filename : pal05000.000

In water: 

in posn : 1402 07/01/04 22.6m deep 

First good: 1415 07/01/04 

Last in posn : 1430 11/01/04 

Popped: 1438 11/01/04 

Out of water : 

Last Read: 

Comments :	 The above instrum ent was moved from A10 and afterwards to A14 

49
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 A11c Rock Isl ands northern channel entrance 

Instrument : Nortek Aquapro , #0866/784 – CRRF (Pat Colin) 

(serial no.) 

Capability : 50cm blanking di stance 

Location : 07°19.023’N, 13 4°31.490’E, 3 0+m 

Sampling : 1min sampling interval every 15min, 30*1m bins 

Filename : Pal1001.prf setup Pal10 

All times listed as local time UTC+9. 

Switch on: 125930 11/01/04 

In water: 

in posn : 1438 11/01/04 22.6 m 

First good: 1500 11/01/04 11-Ja n-2004 15:30:00 

Last in posn : 1430 05/02/04 05-Fe b-2004 14:30:00 

Out of wate r : 

Last Read: 125930 10/02/04 2004-02-10 13:00:00 

Comments : Replaced failed current meter #1673 A11 and s hort A11b deployments. 

21 good bins 

This instrumentwas moved f ro m A13 

A12 Rock Islands souther n reef opening 

Instrument : Nortek Aquado pp, #0970/08 55 – CRRF (Pat C olin) 

(serial no.) 

Capability : 50cm blanking distanc e, 5M mem
 

Location : 07°19.223’N, 134°29.795’E, 11.4m
 

Sampling : 5min sam pling interval every 15min, SD=0.4cm/s, 0.3M mem, 107%

battery in 75 days 

Filename : Pal0401.AQD,*.HDR & *.DAT setup pal04 

All times listed as local time UTC+9. 

Switch on: 151230 03/09/03 

In water: 1700 03/09/03 

in posn : 1715 03/09/03 11.4m 

First good: 1730 03/09/03 03-Sep-2003 17:30:00 

Last good : 204230 03/10/01 01-Oct-2003 20:45:00

Last in posn : 1056 04/01/04 11.2m 

Out of water : 

Last Read: 

Switch off : 1100 07/01/04 

1 sec/ 6mths spe cification 

Comment s : Battery flat as e xpected altho ugh sh ould have lasted 70 days 

1230 in cold bo x for intercali bration 

A13 Toachel mid 

Instrument : Nortek Aquapro, #0866/784 – CRRF (Pat Colin) 

(serial no.) 

Capability : 50cm blanking distance 

50
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

Location : 07°19.023’N, 134°31.490’E, 30+m 

Sampling : 1min sampling interval every 15m in, 30*1m bins 

Filename : pal0601.prf 

All times listed as local time UTC+9. 

Switch on: 135930 05/09/03 

In water: 1510 05/09/03 

in posn : 1530 05/09/03 30+m 

First good: 05-Sep-2003 15:30:00 

Last good :	 0230 30/11/03 30-Nov-2003 02:30:00 

Last in posn : 0830 09/01/04 09-Jan-2004 08:30: 00 

Popped: 0840 09/ 01/04 31.5m 

Out of wate r : 

Last Read: 1153 10/01/04 

Logger 23 seconds fast 

Comment s :	 26 good bins, sh orter than de ployed record – 75 days

This instrumentwas moved t o A11c 

A14 Japanese Channel 

Instrument :	 ADCP 1200kHz, #1292 – UoG (Bob Richmond) 

(serial no.) 

Capability : Temperature and Pressure 

Location :	 07° 17.786’N, 134° 28.958’E, 22 m 

Sampling : 15min ensembles, continuous; 180 pings/ensemble, 22*1m bins, 

SD=0.2cm/s 

Filename : pal05000.000 

All tim es listed as local time UTC+9. 

In water: 

inposn : 1520 1 1/01/04 4m deep
 

First good: 1530 11/01/04
 

Last in posn : 

Popped: 

Out of water : 

Switch off : 2135 14/01/04 12626 ensembles 

Logger 16 seco nds fast 

Comments : This instrumentwas moved f rom A10 and A1 1b 

51
 
 

Appendix D – T emperature deployment information 

T1 Falcon R eef 

T16 

Instrument : SBE39T Temperature logger, #0935 

(serial no.) 

Capability : 

Location : 07°22.424’N, 134°23.232’E, 2.5m 

Sampling : Sampling Interval 5 min 

Filename : 09350401.asc 

All times listed as local tim e UTC+9. 

Time Depth 

Switch on: 1500 03/09/03 

In water: 1330 08/09/03 

inposn : 1408 0 8/09/03 2.5m 

First good: 1410 08/09/03 

Last in po sn : 1 443 03/01/04 3 .7m 

tOut of wa er : 1525 03/01/04 

Switch off 1601 04/01/04 

Logger 1 second fast

Comments : L ong transect, 4 SBE39T & T 1 SBE16C 

15T 

Instrument : S BE39T Temperature logger, #0929 

erial no.) (s 

Capab ility : 

Location : 07°22.424’N, 134°23.232’E, 3.5m 

Sampling : S ampling Interval 5 min 

Filename : 09290401.asc 

All times listed as local tim e UTC+9. 

Time Depth 

Switch on: 1500 03/09/03 

In water: 1330 08/09/03 

inposn : 1355 0 8/09/03 3.5m 

First good: 1400 08/09/03 

Last in po sn : 1 448 03/01/04 4 .7m 

tOut of wa er : 1525 03/01/04 

Switch off 1606 04/01/04 5438 3 samples 

Logger 1 second fast 

Comments : 

T14 C2 

Instrument : SBE16CT Conductivity & Temperature logger, #2127 

(serial no.) 

Capability : 

Location : 07°22.424’N, 134°23.232’E, 6m 

Sampling : Sampling Interval 5 min 

Filename : 21270401.hex 

All times listed as local time UTC+9. 

Time Depth 

52
 
 

 

Switch on: 1500 04/09/03 

In water: 

in posn : 1 345 08/09/03 6m 

First good: 1345 08/09/03 8 Se p 2003, 14:00:00 

Last in posn : 1450 03/01/04 3 Jan 2004, 14:30:00 6.9m 

O ut of water : 1 525 03/01/04 

Switch off 1808 04/01/04 35170 samples 

Logger 2 seconds fast 

Comments : 

T13 

Instrument :	 SBE39T Temperat ure logger, #0920 

(serial no.) 

Capability : 

Location :	 07° 22.445’N, 134° 23.1 77’E , 9m 

Sampling : Sampling Interval 5 min 

Filena me : 09200401.asc 

All times listed as local time UTC+9. 

Time Depth 

Switch on: 1500 03/09/03 

In water: 1118 08/09/03 

in posn : 1132 08/09/03 9m 

First good: 1135 08/09/03 

Last in posn : 1454 03/01/04 10.0m 

Out of wate r : 1525 03/01/04 

Switch off 1557 04/ 01/04 35436 samples 

Logger 1 second early 

Comments :	 Next to CRRF lo gger 

T12 – current me ter A7 

T11 

Instrument : SBE39T Temperat ure logger, #0934 

(serial no.) 

Capability : 

Location :	 07°22.445’N, 134°23.177’E, 20m 

Samp ling : Sampling Interval 5 min 

Filename : 09340401.asc 

All times listed as local time UTC+9. 

Time Depth 

Switch on: 1500 03/09/03 

In water: 1118 08/09/03 

in posn : 1142 08/09/03 20m

First good: 1145 08/09/03 

Last inposn : 1509 03/ 01/04 21.4m 

Out of water : 1525 0 3/01/04 

Switch off 1551 04/01/04 35435 samples 

No clock drift 

Comments : 

53
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

T2 Lighthouse, Toachel ra Kesebekuu 

T26 

Instrument : SBE39T Temperature logger, #0925 

(serial no.) 

Capability : 

Location : 07°16.955’N, 134°27.932’E, 1m 

Sampling : Sampling Interval 5 min 

Filename : 09250801.asc 

All tim es listed as local time UTC+9. 

Time Depth 

Switch on: 1500 30/08/03 

In water:

in posn : 1444 31/08/03 1 m

First good: 1 445 31/08/03

Last in posn : 0846 07/01/04 3.1m 

Out of water :

Switch off 1607 08/01/04 37742 sam ples 

L ogger 9 seconds fast 

Comments : Transect : 4 SBE39T, 1 SBE16CT ; with A8 

T25 C4 

Instrument : SBE16CT Conductivity & Temperature logger, #2124 

(serialno.) 

Capability : 

Location : 07°16.955’N, 134°27.932’E, 3 m 

Sampling : Sampling Interval 5 min 

Filename : 21240301.asc 

All times listed as local time UTC+9. 

Time Depth 

Switch on: 1230 31/ 08/03 

In water: 

in posn : 1452 31/08/03 2.5m 

First good: 1455 31/08/03 31-A ug-2003 16:00:00 

Last in po sn : 0815 31/12/03 31-Dec-2003 08:00:00 2.7m 

Out of water : 

Switch off 1208 03/01/04 35996 sam ples 

Logger 6 seconds fast 

Comments : 

T24 

Instrument : SBE39T Temperature logger, #0933 

(seri al no .) 

Capability : 

Locat ion : 07°16.955’N, 134°27.932’E, 5m 

Sampling : Sampling Interval 5 min 

Filename : 09330801.asc 

All times listed as local ti me UTC+9. 

Time Depth 

Switch on: 1500 30/08/03 

In water: 

54
 
 

 

 

 

 

in posn : 1500 31/ 08/03 5m 

irst good: F 1500 3 1/08/03

Last in posn : 0837 07/01/04 .2m 7 

Out of wa ter : 

Switch off 1558 08/01/04 3 7740 samples 

Logger 10 seconds fast 

Comments : 

T23 

Instrument : S BE39T Temperature logger, #1054 

(seria l no.) 

Capab ility : 

Location : 07°16.955’N, 134°27.932’E, 10m 

Sampling : S ampling Interval 5 min 

Filename : 10540801.asc 

List all time s as local time. 

T ime Depth 

Switch on: 1500 30/08/03 

In water: 

 posn : in 1509 3 1/08/03 10m 

First good: 1510 31/08/03 

Last in po sn : 0834 07/01/04 11.0m 

Out of water : 

Switch off 1541 08/01/04 37737 samples 

Logger 2 seconds slow
 

Comments : 

T22 

Instru ment : SBE39T Temperature logger, #1052 

(serialno.) 

Capability : 

Location : 07°16.955’N, 134°27.932’E, 20m 

Sampling : Sampling Interval 5 min 

Filename : 10520801.asc 

All times listed as local time UTC+9. 

Time Depth 

Switch on: 1500 30/08/03 

In water: 

in posn : 1516 31/08/03 20m 

First good : 1520 31/08/03 

Last in posn : 0840 07/01/04 23.4m 

Out of water : 

Switch off 1530 08/01/04 37737 samples 

Logger 1 secondslow 

Comments : 

T21 – current meter A8 

T3 Roc k Islands, inside channel 

T35 

55
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Instrument : SBE39T Temperature log ger, #1055 

(s erial no.) 

Capability : 

Location : 07°19.57 0’N, 134°29.418’E, 1m 

S ampling : Sampli ng Interval 5 min 

Filename : 10550301.asc 

All tim es listed as lo al time UTC+9. c 

Time Depth 

Switch on: 1 030 29/08/03

In water: 

inposn : 1517 29/08/03 1 .0m 

First good: 1 520 29/08/03 

L ast in posn : 1459 30/12/03 2.6m 

Out o f water : 

Switch off 1801 03/01/04 36667 sa mples 

Logger 7 seconds slow 

Comments : T ransect of 5 loggers, put in at low water on cloudy day. 

T34 

In strument : S BE39T Temperature logger, #1058 

(serial no.) 

Capability : 

ocation : L 07°19.570’N, 134°29.418’E,2.5m 

Sampling : Sampling Interv al 5 min 

Filename : 10583112.asc 

All tim es listed as lo UTC+9. cal time 

T D ime epth

Switch on: 1030 29/08/03 

In water:

in posn : 1 510 29/08/03 2.5m 

F irst good: 1510 29/08/03 

L ast in posn : 1500 30/12/03 3.5m 

Out ater : of w 

fSwitch of 1204 31/12/03 357 31 samples 

Logger 2 seconds slow 

Comments : 

T33 

Instrument : SBE39T Temperature logger, #0676 

(serial no.) 

Capability : 

Location : 07°19.570’N, 134°29.418’E, 5m 

ampling : S Sampli ng Interval 5 min 

Filename : 06763112.asc 

All tim es listed as lo al time UTC+9. c 

Time Depth 

Switch on: 1030 29/08/03 

In water: 

in posn : 1500 29/08/03 5 m

irst good: F 1 500 29/08/03 

Last in posn : 1502 30/12/03 5.9m 

Out of water :

56
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Switch off 1135 31/12/03 35725 samples 

Logger 1 second slow

Comments : 

T32 

Instrument : SBE39T Temperature logger, #0675 

(serial no.) 

Capability : 

Location : 07°19.570’N, 1 34°29.418’E, 10m 

Sampling : Samplin g Interval 5 min 

Filename : 06753112.asc 

All tim es listed as lo al time UTC+9. c 

Time Depth 

Switch on: 1030 29/08/03 

In water: 

in posn : 1444 29/08/03 10.0m 

First good: 1445 29/08/03 

Last in posn : 1504 30/12/03 10.4m 

Out of water : 

Switch off 1332 31/12/03 35749 samples 

Logger 8 seconds fast

Comments : 

T31 

Instrument : SBE39T Temperature logger, #1057 

(serial no.) 

Capability : 

Location : 07°19.570’N, 1 34°29.418’E, 20m 

Sampling : Samplin g Interval 5 min 

Filename : 10573112.asc 

All tim es listed as lo al time UTC+9. c 

Time Depth 

Switch on: 1030 29/08/03 

In water: 

in posn : 1432 29/08/03 20m 

First good: 1435 29/08/03 

Last in posn : 1506 30/12/03 20.5m 

Out of water : 

Switch off 124710 31/12/03 347410 sam ples 

Logger 9 seconds fast 

Comm ents : 

T4 Rock Islands, Nikko Bay 

T45 

Instrument : SBE39T Temperature log ger, #1059 

(serial no.) 

Capability : 

Location : 07°19. 77 2’N, 134°30.034’E, 1m 

Sampling : Sampli ng Interv al 5 min 

Filename : 10593112.asc 

57
 
 

 

 

 

All times listed as lo al time UTC+9. c 

Time D epth

Switch on: 0930 30/08/03 

in posn : 1735 30/08/03 1 m

First good: 1735 30/08/03 

L ast in posn : 1 537 30/12/03 2 .4m 

O ut of water : 

Switch off 1153 31/12/03 35453 samples 

Logger 1 second slow 

Comments : 

T44 

Instrument : SBE39T Temperature logger, #1051 

(serial no.) 

Capability : 

Location : 07°19.772’N, 134°30.034’E, 2.5m 

Sampling : Sampling Interval 5 min 

Filename : 10513112.asc 

All times listed as local time UTC+9. 

Time Depth 

Switch on: 0930 30/08/03 

in posn : 1730 30/08/03 2 .5m

:First good 1730 30/08/03 

Last in posn : 1540 30/12/03 2 .6m 

Out of water : 

Switch off 1300 31/12/03 3 5466 samples 

Logger 6 second s slow 

omments C :

43T 

In strument : SBE39T Temperature logger, #1061 

l no (seria .) 

Capab ity : il

Locat ion : 07 °19.772’N, 134 °30.034’E, 5m 

Sampling : Sampling Interval 5 min 

Filename : 1 061311203.asc 

All times listed as local time UTC+9. 

Time Depth

Switch on: 0930 30/08/ 03

in posn : 1720 30/08/ 03 5m

Fi rst good: 1720 30/ 08/03 

L ast in posn : 1541 3 0/12/03 5.4m 

Out of wate r : 

Switch off 1214 31/12/03 3 5457 samples 

No clock drift 

Comments : 

T42 

Instrument : S BE39T Temperature logger, #1060 

(serial no.) 

Capability : 

Location : 07°19.772’N, 134°30.034’E, 10m 

58
 
 

 

 

 

Sampling : Sampling Interval 5 min 

Filename : 10603112.asc 

All times listed as local time UTC+9. 

T ime Depth 

Switch on: 0930 30/08/03 

in posn : 1715 30/08/03 10.6m 

irst good: F 1 715 30/08/03 

Last in posn : 1544 30/12/03 10.8m 

Out of wate r : 

S witch off 1225 3 1/12/03 35460 sam ples 

Logger 5 second s slow 

Comment s :

T41 

Instrument : SBE39T Temperat ure logger, #1053 

(serial no.) 

Capability : 

Location : 07°19.772’N, 134°30.034’E, 17.6m 

Sampling : Sampling Interval 5 min 

Filename : 10533112.asc 

All times listed as local time UTC+9. 

Time Depth 

Switch on: 0930 30/08/03

in posn : 1705 30/08/03 17.6m 

First good: 1705 30/08/03 

Last in posn : 1546 30/12/03 17.6m 

Out of wate r : 

Switch off 1236 31/12/03 35462 samples 

Logger 2seconds slow 

Comments : 

T5 Uchelbeluu (deepwat er mooring) 

T56 C5 

Instrument : SBE16CT Cond uctivity & Temperature logger, #2125 

(serial no.) 

Capability : 

Location : 07°15.545’N, 134° 33.167’E, "150m below" on 126m moorin g 

Sampling : Sampling Interval 10 min, 600secs 

Filename : 21251401.hex 

All times listed as local time UTC+9. 

Time 

Switch on: 0810 17/09/03
 

In water: 1045 17/09/03
 

inposn : 1100 17/09/03
 

First good: 1100 17/09/03 17 Sep 2003, 12:00:00 

Last in posn : 1440 13/ 01/04 13 Jan 2004, 14:00: 00 

Out of water : 1501 1 3/01/04
 

Switch off 1628 14/01/04
 

Comment s : with A5,C5, Ac oustic Release #445 (13.5 B/D) 

Poor data set, 50% OK 

59
 
 

 

 

 

 

T55 

Instrument : 

(serial no.) 

Capability : 

Location :
 

Sampling : 

Filename : 

Switch on: 

In water: 

inposn : 

First good: 

Last in posn : 

Out of water : 

Switch off 

Comment s : 

T54 

Instrument : 

(serial no.) 

Capability : 

Location :
 

Sampling : 

Filenam e : 

Switch on: 

In water: 

in posn : 

First good: 

Last in posn : 

Out of wate r : 

Switch off 

Comments :
 

T53 

Instrument : 

(serial no.) 

Capability : 

Location : 

Sampling : 

Filename : 

Switch on: 

In water: 

SBE39PT Pressure & Tem perature logger, #1062

07°15.545’N, 134°33.167’E, "160m below" on 126m mooring 

Sampling Interval 5 min 

10621401.asc 

All times listed as local time UTC+9. 

Time Depth 

1030 14/09/03 

1045 17/09/03 

1100 17/09/03 

1100 17/09/03 

1440 13/ 01/04 

1501 1 3/01/04 

2233 14/01/04 35279 samples 

with A5,C5, Ac oustic Release #445 (13.5 B/D) 

SBE39T Temperat ure logger, #0931 

07°15.545’N, 134°33.167’E, "170m below" on 126m mooring 

Sampling Interval 5 min 

09311401.asc 

All times listed as local time UTC+9. 

Time Depth 

1500 03/09/03 

1045 17/09/03

1100 17/09/03 

1100 17/09/03 

1440 13/01/04 

1501 13/01/04 

221212 14/01/01 28391 samples 

with A5,C5, Ac oustic Releas e #445 ( 13.5 B/D) 

File date is worn shows wnd da te 15th ! 

SBE39T Temperat ure logger, #0923 

07°15.545’N, 13 4°33.167’E, "190m below" on 126m mooring 

Sampling Interval 5 min 

09231401.asc 

All times listed as local time UTC+9. 

Time Depth 

1500 03/09/03 

1045 17/09/03 

60
 
 

 

 

 

 

In posn : 1100 17/09/03 

First good: 1100 17/09/03

Last in posn : 1440 13/01/04 

Out of water : 1501 13/ 01/04 

Switch off 21095514/01/04 38378 sam ples 

Logger 19 seconds slow 

Comment s : with A5,C5, Ac oustic Release #445(13.5 B/D) 

T52 – current me ter A5 

T51 

Instrument : SBE39T Temperature l ogger, #0927 

(serial no.) 

Capability : 

Location :	 07°15.545’N, 134°33.167’E, "225m b elow" on 126m mooring 

Sampling : Sampling Interval 5 min 

Filename : 09271401.asc 

All times listed as local ti me UTC+9. 

Time Depth 

Switch on: 1500 03/09/03 

In water: 1045 17/09/03 

inposn : 1100 1 7/09/03 

First good: 1100 17/09/03 

Last in po sn : 1440 13/01/04 

Out of wa ter : 1501 13/01/04 

Switch off 2233 14/01/04 38395 samples 

Logger 7 second s slow 

Comments : with A5,C5, Ac oustic Releas e #445 (13.5 B/D) 

T6 Central Philippine Sea – West Reef flat 

T65 

Instrument : SBE39T Temperature logger, #1137 

(serial no.) 

Capability : 

Locatio n :	 07°24.713’N, 134°20.258’E, 3m (high water) 

Sampling : Sampling Interval 5 min 

Filename : No Data 

All times listed as local ti me UTC+9. 

Time Depth 

Switch on: 1500 03/09/03 

In water: 0955 12/09/03 

in posn : 1040 12/09/03 

First good: 1040 12/09/03 

Last in posn : 

Out of water : 

Switch off NOT RECOVERED 

Comments : Black subsurface buoy m id-t ra nsect, 4 SBE39T + SBE16CT 

Wire securing logger reco vered but had been cut through and had weed 

growth on the cut 

61
 
 

 

 

T64 

Instrument : S BE39T Temperature logger, #0928 

(serial no.) 

Capability : 

Location : 07°24.713’N, 134°20.258 ’E, 4.5m (high water) 

Sampling : Sampling Inter val 5 min 

Filena me : 0928140 1.asc 

All times listed as lo UTC+9. cal time 

Time D epth

Switch on: 1 500 03/09/03 

In water: 0955 12/09/03 

in posn : 1028 12/09/03 

First good: 1030 12/09/03 12 Sep 2003, 11:00:00 4.5m 

Last in posn : 1 110 14/01/04 1 4 Jan 2004, 11:00:00 5.3m 

Out of water : 1150 14/01/04 

S witch off 2324 14/01/04 3 8405 samples 

C omments : Black subsurface buoy mid-transect, 4 SBE39T + SBE16CT 

T63 C1 

Instrument : S BE16CT Conductivity & Temperature logger, #2123 

(serial no.) 

Capability : 

Location : 07°24.713’N, 134°20.258 ’E, 7m (high water) 

Sampling : Sampling Inter val 5 min 

me :Filena 21231401.hex 

All times listed as lo UTC+9. cal time 

Time D epth

Switch on: 0 750 10/09/03

In water: 0955 12/09/03 

in posn : 1003 12/09/03 

First good: 1005 12/09/03 7m 

Last in posn : 1115 14/01/04 7.5m 

Out ofwater : 1150 14/01/04 

S witch off

meCom nts : Black subsurface b uoy mid-transect, 4 SBE39T + SBE16CT 

T62 

Instrument : SBE39T Temperature logger, #0917 

(serial no.) 

Capability : 

Location : 07°24.713’N, 134°20.258 ’E, 12m (high water) 

ampling : S S ampling Interval 5 min 

Filename : 09171401.asc 

All times listed as lo UTC+9. cal time 

Time D epth

Switch on: 1 500 03/09/03 

In water: 0955 12/09/03 

in posn : 1010 12/09/03 

62
 
 

First good: 1010 12/09/03 12m 

Last in posn : 1135 14/1/04 12.5m 

Out of water : 1150 14/1/04 

Switch off 2317 14/01/04 38404 samples 

4seconds fast 

Comments : Black subsurface buoy mid-transect, 4 SBE39T + SBE16CT 

T61 

Instrument : SBE39T Temperature logger, #0924 

(serial no.) 

Capability : 

Location :	 07°24.713’N, 134°20.258’E, 24m (hi gh water) 

Sampling : Sampling Interval 5 min 

Filename : 0924140 1.asc 

All times listed as lo cal time UTC+9. 

Time Depth 

Switch on:	 1500 03/09/03 

In water: 0955 12/09/03 

in posn : 1015 12/09/03 

First good: 1015 12/09/03 24 

Last in posn : 1140 14/01/04 24.5 

Out of water : 1150 14/01/04 

Switch off 2329 14/01/04 38406 samples 

Logger is 6seconds fast 

Comments : Black subsurface buoy mid-t ransect, 4 SBE39T + SBE16CT 

T7 Southern Rock Islands 

T75 

Instrument : SBE39T Temperature logger, #1056 

(serial no.) 

Capability : 

Location :	 07°16.955’N, 134°27.932’E,1.5m 

Sampling : Sampling Interval 5 min 

Filename : 10560301.asc 

All tim es listed as local time UTC+9. 

Time Depth 

Switch on: 1500 30/08/03 

In water: 

in posn : 0957 02/09/03 1.5m

First good: 1000 02/09/03 

Last in posn : 1604 02/01/04 2.0m 

Out of water : 

Switch off 1822 03/01/04 36329 samples 

6 seconds slow 

Comments : 

T74 

Instrument : SBE39T Temperature logger, #0926 

(serial no.) 

Capability : 

Location :	 07°16.955’N, 134°27.932’E, 3m 

63
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sampling : 

Filename : 

Switch on: 

In water: 

in posn : 

First good : 

Last in posn : 

Out of water : 

Switch off 

Comments : 

T73 

Instrument : 

(serial no.) 

Capability :
 

Location :
 

Sampling : 

Filename : 

Switch on: 

In water: 

in posn : 

First good : 

Last in posn : 

Out of water : 

Switch off 

Comments : 

Sampling Interval 5 min 

9260301.asc 

All tim es listed as local time UTC+9. 

Time 

1415 0 1/09/03 

0945 02/09/03 

0945 02/09/03 

1603 02/01/04 

175640 03/01/04 

Logger 4 second s fast 

Depth 

3m 

3.3m 

35756 samples 

SBE39T Temperature logger, #0919 

07°16.955’N, 134°27.932’E, 6m 

Sampling Interval 5 min 

09190903.asc 

All tim es listed as local time UTC+9. 

Time 

1415 0 1/09/03 

0940 02/09/03 

0940 02/09/03 

0845 23/09/03 

1134 23/09/03 

Tide gauge B3 replaced 

up in Nov 

Depth 

5m 

02 Sep 2003, 10:00:00 

23 Sep 2003, 08:45:00 5m 

6304 samples 

this in late Sep and bottom logger (T71) brought 

T73b – tide gauge B3 

T73c 

Instrument : 

(serial no.) 

Capability : 

Location : 

Sampling : 

Filename : 

First good : 

Last in posn : 

Out of water : 

Switch off 

Comments : 

SBE39PT Pressure & Temperature logger, #0732 

07°16.955’N, 13 4°27.932’E, 5m 

Sampling Interval 5 min 

073214 01.asc 

0915 05/11/03 

1601 02/01/04 

2320 14/01/04 

Logger moved from T71 

05 Nov 2003, 09:15:00 

02 Jan 2004, 15:30:00 5.5m 

38990 samples 

64
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

T72 

Instrument : 

(serial no.) 

Capability : 

Location :
 

Sampling : 

Filename : 

Switch on:
 

In water: 

inposn : 

First good: 

Last in posn : 

Out of water : 

Switch off 

Comments : 

T71 

Instrument : 

(serial no.) 

Capability : 

Location : 

Sampling : 

Filename : 

Switch on: 

In water: 

in posn : 

First good: 

Last in posn : 

Comments : 

SBE39T Temperature logger, #0930 

07°16.955’N, 134°27.932’E, 12m 

Sampling Interval 5 min 

09300301.asc 

All times listed as 

Time 

1415 01/09/03

0930 02/09/03 

0930 02/09/03 

1539 02/01/04 

1815 03/01/04 

No clock drift 

 local time UTC+9. 

Depth 

12m 

13.2m 

35761 samples 

SBE39PT Pressure & Temperature logger, #0732 

07°16.376’N, 1 1
 

Sampling Interv al 5 min 

34°24.667’E , 9m 07°16.955’N, 134°27.932’E, 18m 

07321401.asc 

All times listed as local time UTC+9. 

Time Depth 

1415 01/09/03 

0918 02/09/03 18m 

0920 02/09/03 02 Sep 2003, 10:00:00 

0900 05/11/03 05 Nov 2003, 09:00:00 

Moved from bottom in November to 5m T73c at the same transect 

Temperature sub-standard for post deployment inter-calibration 

T8 Ulong East Channel 

T86 

Instrumen t : SBE39T Temperature logger, #918 

(serial no.) 

Capability : Temperature 300K samples 

Location : 07° 16.621’N, 134° 18.802’E, 1m in 42m of water 

Sampling : Sampling Interval 5 min 

Filename : 09181401.asc 

All times listed as local time UTC+9. 

Time Depth 

Switch on: 1500 03/09/03 

In water: 

in posn : 1135 22/09/03 

First good: 1140 22/09/03 22-Sep-2003 12:00:00 

65
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Last in posn : 1230 13/01/04 13-Jan-2004 12:30:00 

Out of water : 

witch offS 164034 14/1/04 38349 samples 

Logger 2 seconds fast 

Comments : 

T85 

Instrument : Brancker XR-420-TG tide gauge, #10092 

(serial no.) 

Capability : Temperature and pressure gauge, 60 sec ave, max depth 90m

Location : 07° 16.621’N, 134° 18.802’E,1m in 42m of water 

Sampling : Sampling Interval 5 min, 60 sec ave 

ilename : F 0 100921401.dat 

All time s listed as local time UTC+9. 

Time Depth 

Switch on: 2 14930 22/09/03 2 150 22/9/03 

In water: 

in posn : 0818 23/09/03 

First good: 0830 23/09/03 2 3-Sep-2003 08:30:00 

Last good : 

Last record : 10 40 19/12/03 19 -Dec-2003 06:00:00 

Last in posn : 1230 13/01/04 

Out of water :

Switch off No power 25212 samples 

Comments : Battery flat on recovery 

Temp calibration 

on 1555 14/1/04, 5’si 60 sec ave with 732 @1550 14/1/04 in ocean 

in bath 2100 14/1/04 off @2400 14/1/04 10092calib.dat 

T84 

Instrument : SBE39T Temperature logger, #932 

(serial no.) 

Capability : Temperature 300K samples 

Location : 07° 16.621’N, 134° 18.802’E, 5m in 42m of water 

Sampling : Sampling Interval 5 min 

Filename : 09321401.asc 

All times listed as local time UTC+9. 

Time 

Switch on: 1500 03/09/03 

In water: 

in posn : 1135 22/09/03 

First good: 1140 22/09/03 

Last in posn : 1230 13/01/04 

Out of water : 

Switch off 214202 14/1/04 38385 samples 

Logger 1 second fast 

Comments : 

T83 

Instrument : SBE39T Temperature logger, #922 

(serial no.) 

Capability : Temperature 300K samples 

66
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Location : 07° 16.621’N, 134° 18.802’E, 10m in 42m of water 

Sampling : Sampling Interval 5 min 

Filename : 09221401.asc 

All times listed as local time UTC+9. 

Time Depth 

Switch on: 1500 03/09/03 

In water: 

in posn : 1135 22/09/03 

First good: 1140 22/09/03 

Last in posn : 1230 13/01/04 

Out of water : 

Switch off 1741 14/01/04 38337 samples 

Logger 1 second fast 

Comments : 

T82 

Instrument : SBE39T Temperature logger, #921 

(serial no.) 

Capability : Temperature 300K samples 

Location : 07° 16.621’N, 134° 18.802’E, 20m in 42m of water 

Sampling : Sampling Interval 5 min 

Filename : 09211401.asc 

All times listed as local time UTC+9. 

Time Depth 

Switch on: 1500 03/09/03 

In water: 

in posn : 1135 22/09/03 

First good: 1140 22/09/03 

Last in posn : 1230 13/01/04 

Out of water : 

Switch off 1749 14/01/04 38338 samples 

Logger 3 seconds slow 

Comments : 

T81 

Instrument : SBE39T Temperature logger, #916 

(serial no.) 

Capability : Temperature 300K samples 

Location : 07° 16.621’N, 134° 18.802’E, 40m in 42m of water 

Sampling : Sampling Interval 5 min 

Filename : 09161401.asc 

All times listed as local time UTC+9. 

Time Depth 

Switch on: 1500 03/09/03 

In water: 

in posn : 1135 22/09/03 

First good: 1140 22/09/03 

Last in posn : 1230 13/01/04 

Out of water : 

Switch off 1727 14/01/04 38334 samples 

Logger 4 seconds slow 

Comments : 

67
 
 

 

 

 

 

Appendix E – Salinity deployment information 

C1 Philippine Sea – West reef flat 

See T63 

C2 Falcon Reef – lagoon central 

See T14 

C3 Malakal Harbour Pincers 

Instrument : SBE16CT Conductivity & Temperature logger, #2126 

(serial no.) 

Capability : Conductivity and Temperature 

Location : 07°20.163’N, 134°25.483’E, 3 m 

Sampling : Sampling Interval 5 min 

Filename : 21260301.hex 

All times listed as local time UTC+9. 

Time Depth 

Switch on: 1500 04/09/03 

In water: 1615 09/09/03 

in posn : 1627 09/09/03 2.6m 

First good: 1630 09/09/03 09-Sep-2003 16:30:00 

Last in posn : 0732 31/12/03 31-Dec-2003 07:30:00 2.1m 

Out of water : 

Switch off 1112 03/01/04 34803 Samples 

Logger 5 seconds fast 

Comments : with A9 

C4 Lighthouse Toachel Ra Kesebekuu 

See T25 

C5 Uchelbeluu 

See T56 

68
 
 

 

 

Appendix F – Weather station deployment information 

WX 

Instrument : Campbell Scientific WX1 

(serial no.) 

Capability : Wind Speed and direction RM Young 

Air temperature 

Pyranometer Kipp & Zonen CM3 #026233 22.24e-6 V/Wm-2 

PAR Licor Quantum Q31622 

Location : 07°20.969’N 134°30.018’E, 210m Shalom Etpisons residence 

Sampling : 5 minute sampling interval, 60 second averaging interval 

Filename : 0100930301.dat 

All times listed as local time UTC+9. 

Switch on: 

in posn : 

First good: 1350 23/09/03 

Last in posn : 1430 09/01/04 

Switch off 

Comments : Flat battery – gap 

69
 
Appendix G – Mooring and Transect Summary Plots 

Summary plots from the moorings and transects of temperature loggers are presented for 

observation of temperature variations with depth. Where available, depth and salinity 

data are also shown for each location. 

70
 
71
 
72
 
73
 
74
 
75
 
76
 
77
 
78
 
Appendix H – Time Series Plots of Current Meter Data 

The following data plots vary according to the type of instrument used to record the 

currents. 

ADCP data (A1, A4, A5, A8, A9, A10, A11b, A11c, A13, A14) are presented using 

three figures. The first of these provides plots of current magnitude, direction and 

components (east, north and vertical) for all depth bins and throughout the deployment. 

The second and third figures show time series from the top and bottom bins of the 

vertical profile (i.e., nearest to the ocean surface and nearest to the instrument, 

respectively). These figures provide plots of temperature, depth (where available), 

current speed, current direction and a quiver plot of the currents. The quiver plot 

representation draws a line segment, originating at the axis, whose length is proportional 

to the current speed and whose direction represents that of the current (north and east 

directions are along the ordinate and abscissae, respectively). The scale on the ordinate 

axis reflects the current speed, as represented by the length of the line segment. 

S4 current meter data (A2, A6) are presented in a single figure with time series plots of 

temperature (where available), depth, current magnitude, current direction and the quiver 

plot of currents, as described previously. 

Nobska current meter data (A3, A7) are presented in two figures. The first of these 

shows time series of temperature, pressure in depth units (where available), current 

speed, current direction and the quiver plot of currents, as described previously. The 

second figure repeats the temperature plot accompanied by plots of conductivity (where 

available) and current components (east – u; north – v; and vertical – w). 

No data were recorded for deployments A11 and A12. 

79
 
80
 
81
 
82
 
83
 
84
 
85
 
A4 Palau

RDI ADCP 584 

Velocity Magnitude Avg = 12 cm/s 

102030 

100 cm/s 500

Velocity Direction 

102030 

360 deg 180 0

D e p t h ( m ) 102030 50 cm/s 

0-50 

East Velocity Avg = 1 cm/s 

102030 

50 cm/s 0-50 

North Velocity Avg = -6 cm/s 

102030 

10 cm/s 0-10 

Vertical Velocity Avg = 0 cm/s 

16/09 06/10 26/10 15/11 05/12 25/12 

Date (2003 WST) 

86
 
87
 
88
 
89
 
90
 
91
 
92
 
93
 
94
 
95
 
96
 
97
 
98
 
99
 
100
 
101
 
102
 
103
 
104
 
105
 
106
 
107
 
108
 
109
 
110
 
111
 
112
 
113
 
114
 
115
 
116
 
Appendix I – Time Series Plots of Tide Gauge Data 

Tide gauge data are presented as plots of depth and temperature for each deployment. 

Note that deployments B3b and B3c are presented as a single graph. The two 

deployments can be clearly seen from the depth graph by observing the surface-interval 

between them. 

117
 
118
 
119
 
120
 
121
 
122
 
123
 
124
 
Appendix J – Time Series Plots of Salinity Data 

Salinity values were determined from measurements of conductivity and temperature. 

The density anomaly (sigma-t), the increase in the density of the sea-water sample from 

that of fresh-water (1000 kg.m-3), can be derived from the temperature and salinity. 

Three time-series plots (temperature, salinity and density anomaly) are presented for each 

instrument. 

125
 
126
 
127
 
128
 
129
 
130
 
Appendix K – CTD Profiles 

Conductivity Temperat ure and Depth (CTD) Cast Summary 

CTD casts are named u sing the following nami ng convention: ddmmnnn, with dd being 

the day, mm the month and nnn being the cast num ber starting from zero. Data were 

processed from raw *.hex files to *.cnv using the manuf acturer software. They were then 

edited to in-wa ter valu es. 

The tables below summarise the cast locations from each survey in Se ptember and 

November 2003. The Site column ide ntifies th e CTD location. If the prof ile was 

recorded near deployed instruments, the site is referenced by the instrumen t code; e.g., 

cast 2109000 was taken near temperature profile T 4. The information is contained in the 

ASCII file castdata.dat . 

MATLAB uses this information to process the data into *.m at files and produce figures 

(*.emf). The data from each cast are presented here in two plots. The time, locations and 

depths, obtained from the original file header informatio n, are included in the title. The 

first plot ill ust rates the variation with depth of t he temperature, salinity and density 

anomaly. The second plot comb ines these three variables (contours of density anomaly 

are shown on the axes) on a two-dime nsional graph . In this representa tion, a grouping of 

data indicates a specific type of water. 

As an example, the second plot from cast 1909001 (page 136) is analysed. Two distinct 

water types are observed; to the right of the dia gram , wa ter with near-constant salin ity 

(33.7 psu) and density anoma ly (21.12) shows a temperature range of 28.88 – 28.91°C; 

on the left of the diagram, water with near-cons tant temperature (28.89°C) has variable 

salinity (33.5 – 33.6 psu) and density anomaly (20.99 – 21.07). 

Table 5 List of C TD profi les take n d uring September 200 3 

Cast Site Lat [°] Lat [min] Lon [°] Lon [min] Cast 

Depth 

1909000 018 7 6.857 134 15.937 24.5 

1909001 019 7 8.073 134 17.910 15.8 

1909002 020 7 9.686 134 19.861 25 

1909003 021 7 10.880 134 21.754 26 

1909004 022 7 12.783 134 23.249 18.5 

1909005 023 7 13.054 134 26.643 27 

1909006 026 7 15.351 134 27.651 28 

1909007 025 7 16.966 134 27.922 22 

1909008 026 7 17.672 134 27.459 13.8 

1909009 027 7 18.653 134 27.605 14.7 

1909010 028 7 19.858 134 27.887 29.5 

131
 
1909011 029 7 20.230 134 27.941 13 

2109000 T4 7 19.772 134 30.034 15 

2109001 A2 7 19.315 134 29.400 13 

2109002 031 7 19.071 134 29.707 20 

2109003 032 7 18.689 134 30.115 1.9 

2109004 033 7 18.493 134 30.627 1.4 

2109005 034 7 18.557 134 31.463 32 

2109006 A13 7 19.034 134 31.459 33 

2109007 036 7 20.033 134 31.250 33 

2109008 037 7 20.430 134 31.025 26 

2109009 038 7 21.106 134 30.723 29 

2109010 KB 7 21.757 134 30.253 27.5 

2109011 040 7 20.309 134 25.685 31 

2109012 041 7 19.958 134 26.143 27.5 

2109013 042 7 19.249 134 27.220 31 

2209000 043 7 16.733 134 19.770 7.8 

2209001 044 7 16.700 134 19.451 27 

2209002 045 7 16.674 134 19.018 28 

2209003 A4 7 16.621 134 18.807 20 

2209004 048 7 17.468 134 16.796 9 

2209005 049 7 17.426 134 16.410 15 

2209006 050 7 17.487 134 16.000 13.8 

2209007 051 7 17.378 134 15.676 3.7 

2209008 052 7 16.579 134 20.219 24 

2209009 053 7 15.444 134 21.278 29.7 

2209010 054 7 15.959 134 22.529 26 

2209011 055 7 15.839 134 23.821 22 

2209012 T7 7 16.382 134 24.664 32 

2209013 056 7 17.285 134 25.216 28 

2209014 057 7 18.796 134 25.321 15 

Table 6 List of CTD profiles taken during November 2003 

Cast Site Lat [°] Lat [min] Lon [°] Lon [min] Cast 

Depth 

Sounder 

Depth 

0311000 11b 7 18.8864 134 27.3167 29 33 

0411000 CTD0 7 14.0504 134 27.0888 15 14.6 

0411001 CTD1 7 14.0386 134 27.0801 20 14.8 

0411002 CTD2 7 14.0366 134 27.0790 24 14.2 

0411003 CTD3 7 12.6739 134 26.8814 27 134.5 

0411004 CTD4 7 12.6008 134 25.3299 25 17.9 

0411005 CTD5 7 12.5031 134 23.9171 3.2 0 

0411006 CTD6 7 09.3991 134 25.0446 13.8 12.3 

132
 
0411007 CTD7 7 12.7256 134 25.0439 21 21 

0411008 CTD8 7 15.6579 134 24.9592 5.5 5.9 

0411009 CTD9 7 16.1055 134 25.7940 6 5.8 

0411010 CTD10 7 12.6050 134 25.8862 22.5 20.1 

0411011 CTD11 7 09.4580 134 25.8855 27 282.8 

0411012 CTD12 7 16.4348 134 26.6251 10 9.4 

0411013 CTD13 7 17.3838 134 27.5574 14.9 14 

0411014 CTD14 7 18.1537 134 28.3293 17 16.3 

0511000 Tide 7 08.4912 134 17.8275 1 17.9 

0511001 C2 7 08.4912 134 17.8275 19 17.9 

0511002 CTD2 7 08.5862 134 16.1945 5.2 4.3 

0511003 C1 7 08.6464 134 15.1383 7 8 

0511004 CTD4 7 07.6638 134 15.0724 5.7 5.7 

0511005 CTD5 7 08.9591 134 15.7566 5.5 10.2 

0511006 CTD6 7 09.5599 134 16.0855 16 -

0511007 CTD7 7 09.8933 134 15.2803 17 16.5 

0511008 CTD8 7 08.8731 134 16.4170 13.8 5.3 

0511009 CTD9 7 08.0643 134 17.4009 4.2 4.2 

0511010 CTD10 7 19.2354 134 21.0854 27.5 38 

0511011 CTD11 7 21.5479 134 19.6039 26 24 

0511012 CTD12 7 23.2839 134 18.4827 27 167.1 

0511013 CTD13 7 26.8286 134 21.3439 27 111.8 

0511014 CTD14 7 22.5419 134 23.2218 21 20.2 

0511015 CTD14 7 21.7790 134 23.7905 27 28.1 

0611000 CTD0 7 28.6144 134 23.7271 0.5 1.7 

0611001 CTD1 7 29.5474 134 24.9141 15.5 14.6 

0611002 CTD2 7 30.6139 134 26.1717 1.4 1.5 

0611003 CTD3 7 31.0064 134 23.1289 0.5 3.1 

0611004 CTD4 7 29.5404 134 25.0558 12.9 12.9 

0611005 CTD5 7 29.5404 134 25.0558 27 -

0711000 CTD0 7 46.3574 134 35.6308 14.5 15.4 

0711001 CTD1 7 50.7233 134 32.5500 12.7 11.9 

0711002 CTD2 7 54.8317 134 30.2406 3.5 5 

0711003 CTD3 7 56.3801 134 38.1900 28 29.5 

0711004 CTD4 7 58.5619 134 40.2784 8 7.3 

0711005 CTD5 7 59.5498 134 41.3447 1.1 1.1 

0711006 CTD6 7 52.7399 134 39.9645 17 15.5 

0711007 CTD7 7 50.9388 134 38.4327 22.5 21.9 

0711008 CTD8 7 49.0609 134 36.6004 24 23.5 

0711009 CTD9 7 46.3673 134 35.2366 13 10.7 

0711010 CTD10 7 44.6621 134 34.6736 8.2 7.4 

0711011 CTD11 7 43.5478 134 34.8441 2 2 

0911000 11C1 7 16.9557 134 30.1576 17.7 27 

0911001 11C2 7 15.8782 134 28.9070 21 20.1 

0911002 11C3 7 14.8337 134 27.9863 19.3 18 

133
 
0911003 10A1 7 20.6072 134 34.3320 27 37.3 

0911004 CTD4 7 22.0578 134 35.9943 27 1.5 

1111000 6A 7 36.5044 134 31.3058 29 35.2 

1111001 6Af 7 37.6915 134 33.0635 28 36.6 

1111002 5As 7 39.6513 134 37.4472 6.9 1.1 

1111003 5Af 7 38.1567 134 35.4293 24.5 33.5 

1111004 5bs 7 37.7145 134 36.1149 19.5 19.5 

1111005 5bf 7 40.6068 134 36.9029 26 0.9 

134
 
 

Depth (m) 10 

15 

File: 1909000 19-Sep-2003 11:48:26 S7.1143 E134.2656 Site: 018 

0 

5 

28.6 28.65 28.7 28.75 28.8 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

20 

25 

33.1	 33.2 33.3 33.4 33.5 33.6 33.7 33.8 33.9 

Salinity (psu) (solid) 

20.6	 20.7 20.8 20.9 21 21.1 21.2 21.3 21.4 21.5 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed) 

28.65 

28.66 

28.67 

28.68 

28.69 

28.7 

28.71 

28.72 

28.73 

28.74 

28.75 

20.7 

20.7 

20.8 

20.9 

21 

21.1 

21.1 

21.2 

21.3 

21.4 

Tem perature (°C) 

33 33.2 33.4 33.6 33.8 34 

Salinity (psu) 

135
 
 

Depth (m) 

File: 1909001 19-Sep-2003 11:59:35 S7.1345 E134.2985 Site: 019 

0
 

2
 

4
 

6
 

8
 

10
 

12
 

14
 

16
 28.86 28.87 28.88 28.89 28.9 28.91 28.92 28.93 28.94 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

33.54 33.56 33.58 33.6 33.62 

Salinity (psu) (solid) 

33.64 33.66 33.68 

21 21.05 21.1 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed) 

21.15 21.2 

28.87 

28.875 

28.88 

28.885 

28.89 

28.895 

28.9 

28.905 

28.91 

20.99 

21.01 

21.03 

21.04 

21.06 

21.07 

21.09 

21.1 

21.12 

Temperature (

21.1 

°C) 

33.55 33.6 33.65 33.7 

Salinity (psu) 

136
 
5 

File: 1909002 19-Sep-2003 12:12:40 S7.1614 E134.331 Site: 020 

0 

10 

15 

20 

25 

28.7 28.75 28.8 28.85 28.9 28.95 29 29.05 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

32.9 33 33.1 33.2 33.3 33.4 33.5 33.6 33.7 

Salinity (psu) (solid) 

20.5 20.6 20.7 20.8 20.9 21 21.1 21.2 21.3 21.4 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed) 

Depth (m) 

28.94 

32.8 33 33.2 33.4 33.6 33.8 

20.5 

20.6 

20.7 

20.7 

20.8 

20.9 

21 

21 

21.1 

21 

28.92 

28.9 

28.88 

28.86 

28.84 

28.82 

28.8 

28.78 

28.76 

Salinity (psu) 

Temperature (°C) 

137
 
5 

File: 1909003 19-Sep-2003 12:25:47 S7.1813 E134.3626 Site: 021 

0 

10 

15 

20 

25 

30 

28.6 28.7 28.8 28.9 29 29.1 29.2 29.3 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

32.9 33 33.1 33.2 33.3 33.4 33.5 33.6 33.7 

Salinity (psu) (solid) 

20.4 20.5 20.6 20.7 20.8 20.9 21 21.1 21.2 21.3 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed) 

Depth (m) 

29.1 

29.05 

29 

28.95 

28.9 

32.8 33 33.2 33.4 33.6 33.8 

20.4 

20.5 

20.6 

20.7 

20.7 

20.8 

20.9 

21 

21.1 

21 

Salinity (psu) 

Temperature (°C) 

138
 
Depth (m) 

File: 1909004 19-Sep-2003 12:38:18 S7.2131 E134.3875 Site: 022 

0 

2 

4 

6 

8 

10 

12 

14 

16 

18 

20 

28.2 28.4 28.6 28.8 29 29.2 29.4 29.6 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

30.5	 31 31.5 32 32.5 33 33.5 

Salinity (psu) (solid) 

18.5	 19 19.5 20 20.5 21 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed) 

28.4 

28.5 

28.6 

28.7 

28.8 

28.9 

18.6 

18.9 

19.2 

19.5 

19.8 

20.1 

20.4 

20.7 

21.1 

21.4

Temperature (°C) 

30 31 32 33 34 

Salinity (psu) 

139
 

21.5 
5 

Depth (m) 

File: 1909005 19-Sep-2003 12:52:48 S7.2176 E134.4441 Site: 023 

0 

10 

15 

20 

25 

30 

28.4	 28.5 28.6 28.7 28.8 28.9 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

33.1 33.2 33.3 33.4 33.5 33.6 33.7 33.8 33.9 

Salinity (psu) (solid) 

20.8 20.9 21 21.1 21.2 21.3 21.4 21.5 21.6 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed) 

28.45 

28.5 

28.55 

28.6 

28.65 

20.7 

20.8 

20.9 

21 

21 

21.1 

21.2 

21.3 

21.3 

21 

Temperature (°C) 

33 33.2 33.4 33.6 33.8 34 

Salinity (psu) 

140
 
File: 1909006 19-Sep-2003 13:04:30 S7.2558 E134.4608 Site: 026 

0 

5 

10 

15 

20 

25 

30 

28.55 28.6 28.65 28.7 28.75 28.8 28.85 28.9 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

33.45 33.5 33.55 33.6 33.65 33.7 33.75 33.8 33.85 33.9 

Salinity (psu) (solid) 

20.9 21 21.1 21.2 21.3 21.4 21.5 21.6 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed) 

Depth (m) 

28.8 

28.78 

28.76 

28.74 

28.72 

28.7 

28.68 

28.66 

28.64 

33.4 33.5 33.6 33.7 33.8 33.9 

20.9 

21 

21 

21.1 

21.1 

21.2 

21.2 

21.3 

21.3 

21 

Salinity (psu) 

Temperature (°C) 

141
 
Depth (m) 

File: 1909007 19-Sep-2003 13:14:29 S7.2828 E134.4654 Site: 025 

28.72 28.74 28.76 28.78 28.8 28.82 28.84 28.86 28.88 28.9 

0 

5 

10 

15 

20 

25 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

33 33.1 33.2 33.3 33.4 33.5 33.6 33.7 33.8 

Salinity (psu) (solid) 

20.5 20.6 20.7 20.8 20.9 21 21.1 21.2 21.3 21.4 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed) 

28.78 

28.79 

28.8 

28.81 

28.82 

28.83 

28.84 

28.85 

28.86 

20.6 

20.7 20.7 

20.8 

20.9 

20.9 

21 

21.1 

21.2 

21.2 

Temperature (°C) 

33 33.2 33.4 33.6 33.8 

Salinity (psu) 

142
 
Depth (m) 

File: 1909008 19-Sep-2003 13:19:07 S7.2945 E134.4577 Site: 026 

0
 

2
 

4
 

6
 

8
 

10
 

12
 

14
 28.55 28.6 28.65 28.7 28.75 28.8 28.85 28.9 28.95 29 29.05 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

32.8 32.9 33 33.1 33.2 33.3 33.4 

Salinity (psu) (solid) 

33.5 33.6 33.7 

20.4 20.5 20.6 20.7 20.8 20.9 21 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed) 

21.1 21.2 21.3 

28.62 

28.64 

28.66 

28.68 

28.7 

28.72 

28.74 

28.76 

28.78 

28.8 

28.82 20.5 

20.6 

20.7 

20.7 

20.8 

20.9 

21 

21.1 

21.2 

21 

Temperature (°C) 

32.8 33 33.2 33.4 33.6 33.8 

Salinity (psu) 

143
 
Depth (m) 

28.85 28.9 28.95 29 29.05 

File: 1909009 19-Sep-2003 13:23:27 S7.3109 E134.4601 Site: 027 

0 

5 

10 

15 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

32.6	 32.7 32.8 32.9 33 33.1 33.2 33.3 33.4 33.5 

Salinity (psu) (solid) 

20.3 20.4 20.5 20.6 20.7 20.8 20.9 21 21.1 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed) 

28.88 

28.89 

28.9 

28.91 

28.92 

28.93 

28.94 

28.95 

28.96 

28.97 

28.98 

20.3 

20.4 

20.4 

20.5 

20.6 

20.7 

20.8 

20.9 

21 

21 

Temperature (°C) 

32.6 32.8 33 33.2 33.4 33.6 

Salinity (psu) 

144
 
Depth (m) 

File: 1909010 19-Sep-2003 13:28:43 S7.331 E134.4648 Site: 028 

0 

5 

10 

15 

20 

25 

30 

8 

18 

28.85 

20 

10 

28.9 2

22 

12 

8.95 29 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

24 26 28 

Salinity (psu) (solid) 

14 16 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed) 

29.05 29.1 29.15 29.2 

18 

30 

29.25 

20 

29.3 

32 

29

22 

.35 

29 

29.05 

29.1 

29.15 

29.2 

8.76 

10.1 

11.5 12.8 14.2 

15.6 

16.9 

18.3 

19.7 

Temperature (

21

°C) 

20 25 30 35
 

Salinity (psu)
 

145
 
Depth (m) 

File: 1909011 19-Sep-2003 13:32:23 S7.3372 E134.4657 Site: 029 

0 

2 

4 

6 

8 

10 

12 

14 

29.23 29.24 29.25 29.26 29.27 29.28 29.29 29.3 29.31 29.32 29.33 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

24 25 26 27 28 29

Salinity (psu) (solid) 

30 31 32 

13 14 15 16 17 18 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed) 

19 20 21 

29.255 

29.26 

29.265 

29.27 

29.275 

29.28 

29.285 

29.29 

29.295 

13.8 

14.5 

15.3 

16 

16.7 

17.5 

18.2 

18.9 

19.7 

20.4 

Temperature (°C) 

24 26 28 30 32
 

Salinity (psu)
 

146
 
Depth (m) 

File: 2109000 21-Sep-2003 13:13:05 S7.3295 E134.5006 Site: T4 

0 

2 

4 

6 

8 

10 

12 

14 

16 

27.5 28 28.5 29 29.5 30 30.5 31 31.5 32 32.5 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

16 18 20 22 24 26

Salinity (psu) (solid) 

28 30 32 

6 8 10 12 14 16 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed) 

18 20 22 

28.8 

29 

29.2 

29.4 

29.6 

29.8 

30 

30.2 

30.4 

30.6 

30.8 

6.78 

8.29 

9.8 

11.3 

12.8 

14.3 

15.9 

17.4 

18.9 

20.4 

Temperature (°C) 

15 20 25 30
 

Salinity (psu)
 

147
 
 

Depth (m) 

File: 2109001 21-Sep-2003 13:46:00 S7.3219 E134.49 Site: A2 

0
 

2
 

4
 

6
 

8
 

10
 

12
 

14
 28.6 28.8 29 29.2 29.4 29.6 29.8 30 30.2 30.4 30.6 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

30. 5 31 31.5 32 32.5 33
 

Salinity (psu) (solid)
 

18 18.5 19 19.5 20 20.5 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed) 

28.9 

29 

29.1 

29.2 

29.3 

29.4 

29.5 

29.6 

29.7 

29.8 

18.2 18.5 

18.8 

19.1 

19.3 

19.6 

19.9 

20.2 

20.5 

20

Temperature (°C) 

30 30.5 31 31.5 32 32.5 33 33.5 

Salinity (psu) 

148
 

21 
Depth (m) 

File: 2109002 21-Sep-2003 13:53:23 S7.3179 E134.4951 Site: 031 

28.5 29 29.5 30 30.5 

0 

2 

4 

6 

8 

10 

12 

14 

16 

18 

20 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

31 31.5 32 32.5 33 

Salinity (psu) (solid) 

18.5 19 19.5 20 20.5 21 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed) 

29.1 

29.2 

29.3 

29.4 

29.5 

29.6 

29.7 

29.8 

29.9 

30 

30.1 

18.5 

18.8 

19 

19.3 

19.5 

19.8 

20 

20.2 

20.5 

20.7 

Temperature (°C) 

30.5 31 31.5 32 32.5 33 33.5 

Salinity (psu) 

149
 
Depth (m) 

File: 2109003 21-Sep-2003 14:01:30 S7.3115 E134.5019 Site: 032 

0 

0.2 

0.4 

0.6 

0.8 

1 

1.2 

1.4 

1.6 

1.8
 

2
 29.2 29.3 29.4 29.5 29.6 29.7 29.8 29.9 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

32.8 32.9 33 

Salinity (psu) (solid) 

33.1 33.2 33.3 

20.1 20.2 20.3 20.4 20.5 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed) 

20.6 20.7 20.8 

29.35 

29.4 

29.45 

29.5 

29.55 

29.6 

29.65 

20.1 

20.2 20.3 

20.3 

20.4 

20.4 

20.5 

20.6 

20 

20.7 

Temperature (°C) 

32.7 32.8 32.9 33 33.1 33.2 33.3 

Salinity (psu) 

150
 
Depth (m) 

File: 2109004 21-Sep-2003 14:09:02 S7.3082 E134.5104 Site: 033 

0 

0.2 

0.4 

0.6 

0.8 

1 

1.2 

1.4 

27.8 28 28.2 28.4 28.6 28.8 29 29.2 29.4 29.6 29.8 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

30 30.5 31 31.5 32 

Salinity (psu) (solid) 

32.5 33 33.5 

18 18.5 19 19.5 20 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed) 

20.5 21 21.5 

28 

28.1 

28.2 

28.3 

28.4 

28.5 

28.6 

28.7 

28.8 

28.9 

18.2 

18.6 

18.9 

19.2 

19.6 

19.9 

20.2 

20.6 

20.9 

21 

Temperature (°C) 

30 31 32 33
 

Salinity (psu)
 

151
 
File: 2109005 21-Sep-2003 14:12:50 S7.3093 E134.5244 Site: 034 

0 

5
 

10
 

15
 

20
 

25
 

30
 

35
 28.6 28.65 28.7 28.75 28.8 28.85 28.9 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

33.2 33.3 33.4 33.5 

Salinity (psu) (solid) 

33.6 33.7 

20.8 20.9 21 21.1 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed) 

21.2 21.3 21.4 

Depth (m) 

28.8 

28.78 

28.76 

28.74 

28.72 

28.7 

28.68 

28.66 

20.7 

20.8 

20.8 

20.9 21 

21 

21.1 

21.1 

21.2 

21 

33.1 33.2 33.3 33.4 33.5 33.6 33.7 33.8 

Salinity (psu) 

Temperature (°C) 

152
 
File: 2109006 21-Sep-2003 14:17:39 S7.3172 E134.5243 Site: A13 

0 

5
 

10
 

15
 

20
 

25
 

30
 

35
 

28.6 28.65 28.7 28.75 28.8 28.85 28.9 28.95 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

32.9 33 33.1 33.2 33.3 33.4 33.5 33.6 33.7 33.8 

Salinity (psu) (solid) 

20.5 20.6 20.7 20.8 20.9 21 21.1 21.2 21.3 21.4 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed) 

Depth (m) 

28.85 

32.8 33 33.2 33.4 33.6 33.8 

20.5 

20.6 

20.7 

20.8 

20.9 

20.9 

21 

21.1 

21.2 

21. 

28.8 

28.75 

28.7 

Salinity (psu) 

Temperature (°C) 

153
 
File: 2109007 21-Sep-2003 14:23:28 S7.3339 E134.5208 Site: 036 

0 

5 

10 

15 

20 

25 

30 

35 

28.65 28.7 28.75 28.8 28.85 28.9 28.95 29 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

32.4 32.6 32.8 33 33.2 33.4 

Salinity (psu) (solid) 

20 20.2 20.4 20.6 20.8 21 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed) 

Depth (m) 

28.9 

28.88 

28.86 

28.84 

28.82 

28.8 

28.78 

28.76 

28.74 

32.2 32.4 32.6 32.8 33 33.2 33.4 33.6 

20.1 

20.2 

20.3 

20.4 

20.5 

20.6 

20.7 

20.8 

20.9 

21.1 

Salinity (psu) 

Temperature (°C) 

154
 

21.2 
Depth (m) 15 

20 

File: 2109008 21-Sep-2003 14:40:24 S7.3405 E134.5171 Site: 037 

0 

5 

10 

28.75 28.8 28.85 28.9 28.95 29 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

25 

30 

32 32.2 32.4 32.6 32.8 33 33.2 

Salinity (psu) (solid) 

19.6	 19.8 20 20.2 20.4 20.6 20.8 21 21.2 21.4 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed) 

28.82 

28.84 

28.86 

28.88 

28.9 

28.92 

28.94 

19.8 

19.9 

20 

20.1 

20.3 

20.4 

20.5 

20.7 

20.8 

20.9 

Temperature (°C) 

32 32.5 33 33.5 

Salinity (psu) 

155
 
Depth (m) 

File: 2109009 21-Sep-2003 14:47:42 S7.3518 E134.512 Site: 038 

0 

5 

10 

15 

20 

25 

30 

28.75 

32.2 

28.8 

32.4 

28.85 28.9 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

32.6 32.8 

28.95 

33 

29 

33.2 433. 

Salinity (psu) (solid) 

19.8 20 20.2 20.4 20.6 20.8 21 21.2 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed) 

28.84 

28.86 

28.88 

28.9 

28.92 

28.94 

19.9 

20 

20.1 

20.2 

20.3 

20.4 

20.6 

20.7 

20.8 

20.9 

Temperature (°C) 

32 32.5 33 33.5 

Salinity (psu) 

156
 
Depth (m) 

File: 2109010 21-Sep-2003 14:53:18 S7.3626 E134.5042 Site: KB 

0 

5 

10 

15 

20 

25 

30
 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

32.5 32.6 32.7 32.8 32.9 33 33.1 33.2 33.3 

Salinity (psu) (solid) 

20 20.2 20.4 20.6 20.8 21 21.2 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed) 

28.8 28.82 28.84 28.86 28.88 28.9 28.92 28.94 28.96 

28.85 

28.86 

28.87 

28.88 

28.89 

28.9 

28.91 

28.92 

28.93 

20.2 

20.2 

20.3 

20.4 

20.5 

20.6 

20.7 

20.7 

20.8 

20.9 

Temperature (°C) 

32.4 32.6 32.8 33 33.2 33.4 

Salinity (psu) 

157
 
File: 2109011 21-Sep-2003 16:57:13 S7.3385 E134.4281 Site: 040 

0 

5 

10 

15 

20 

25 

30 

35 

28.5 28.6 28.7 28.8 28.9 29 29.1 29.2 29.3 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

32.8 32.9 33 33.1 33.2 33.3 33.4 33.5 33.6 33.7 

Salinity (psu) (solid) 

Depth (m) 

20.4 20.5 20.6 20.7 20.8 20.9 21 21.1 21.2 21.3 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed) 

29
 

32.8 33 33.2 33.4 33.6 33.8 

20.4 

20.5 

20.6 

20.7 

20.7 

20.8 

20.9 

21 

21.1 

21.2 

28.95 

28.9 

28.85 

28.8 

28.75 

28.7 

28.65 

Salinity (psu) 

Temperature (°C) 

158
 
Depth (m) 

File: 2109012 21-Sep-2003 17:03:29 S7.3326 E134.4357 Site: 041 

28.5 28.6 28.7 28.8 28.9 29 29.1 29.2 29.3 29.4 

0 

5 

10 

15 

20 

25 

30 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

32. 9 33 33.1 33.2 33.3 33.4 33.5 33.6 33.7 

Salinity (psu) (solid) 

20.5 20.6 20.7 20.8 20.9 21 21.1 21.2 21.3 21.4 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed) 

28.6 

28.65 

28.7 

28.75 

28.8 

28.85 

28.9 

28.95 

29 

29.05 

20.5 

20.5 

20.6 

20.7 

20.8 

20.9 

21 

21 

21 

21.2 

Temperature (°C) 

32.8 33 33.2 33.4 33.6 33.8 

Salinity (psu) 

159
 
File: 2109013 21-Sep-2003 17:09:01 S7.3208 E134.4537 Site: 042 

0 

5 

10 

15 

20 

25 

30 

35 

28.85	 28.9 28.95 29 29.05 29.1
 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted)
 

31 31. 5 32 32.5 33 33.5 

Salinity (psu) (solid) 

19 19.5 20 20.5 21 21.5 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed) 

Depth (m) 

29.06 

29.04 

29.02 

29 

28.98 

28.96 

28.94 

31 31.5 32 32.5 33 33.5 

19 

19.2 

19.5 

19.7 

19.9 

20.2 20.4 

20.6 

20.8 

21.1 

Salinity (psu) 

Temperature (°C) 

160
 
Depth (m) 

File: 2209000 22-Sep-2003 10:21:01 S7.2789 E134.3295 Site: 043 

28.87 28.88 28.89 28.9 28.91 28.92 28.93 28.94 28.95 

0 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

7 

8 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

33.25 33.3 33.35 33.4 33.45 33.5 

Salinity (psu) (solid) 

20.75 20.8 20.85 20.9 20.95 21 21.05 21.1 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed) 

28.89 

28.895 

28.9 

28.905 

28.91 

28.915 

28.92 

20.8 

20.8 

20.8 

20.9 

20.9 

20.9 

20.9 

20.9 

21 

21 

Temperature (°C) 

33.25 33.3 33.35 33.4 33.45 33.5 33.55 

Salinity (psu) 

161
 
Depth (m) 

File: 2209001 22-Sep-2003 10:24:43 S7.2783 E134.3242 Site: 044 

28.65 28.7 28.75 28.8 28.85 28.9 28.95 29 29.05 

0 

5 

10 

15 

20 

25 

30 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

33.3 33.35 33.4 33.45 33.5 33.55 33.6 33.65 

Salinity (psu) (solid) 

20.85 20.9 20.95 21 21.05 21.1 21.15 21.2 21.25 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed) 

28.74 

28.76 

28.78 

28.8 

28.82 

28.84 

28.86 

28.88 

28.9 

20.8 

20.9 

20.9 

20.9 

21 

21 

21 

21.1 

21.1 

2

Temperature (°C) 

33.3 33.4 33.5 33.6 33.7 

Salinity (psu) 

162
 
File: 2209002 22-Sep-2003 10:29:29 S7.2779 E134.317 Site: 045 

0 

5 

10 

15 

20 

25 

30 

28.6 28.65 28.7 28.75 28.8 28.85 28.9 28.95 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

33.2 33.25 33.3 33.35 33.4 33.45 33.5 55 33 33. .6 33.65 33.7 

Salinity (psu) (solid) 

20.8 20.9 21 21.1 21.2 21.3 21.4 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed) 

Depth (m) 

28.9 

28.88 

28.86 

28.84 

28.82 

28.8 

28.78 

28.76 

28.74 

28.72 

33.2 33.3 33.4 33.5 33.6 33.7 

20.7 

20.8 

20.8 

20.9 

20.9 

21 

21 

21.1 

21.1 

21.2 

Salinity (psu) 

Temperature (°C) 

163
 
Depth (m) 

File: 2209003 22-Sep-2003 10:36:24 S7.277 E134.3134 Site: A4 

0 

2 

4 

6 

8 

10 

12 

14 

16 

18 

20 

28.72 28.74 28.76 28.78 28.8 28.82 28.84 28.86 28.88 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

33.2 33.25 33.3 33.35 33.4 

Salinity (psu) (solid) 

33.45 33.5 

20.75 20.8 20.85 20.9 20.95 21 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed) 

21.05 21.1 21.15 

28.76 

28.77 

28.78 

28.79 

28.8 

28.81 

28.82 

20.8 

20.8 

20.8 

20.9 

20.9 

20.9 

21 

21 

21 

21

Temperature (°C) 

33.2 33.25 33.3 33.35 33.4 33.45 33.5 33.55 

Salinity (psu) 

164
 
Depth (m) 

File: 2209004 22-Sep-2003 11:49:22 S7.2911 E134.2799 Site: 048 

0 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

7 

8 

9 

10 

28.72 28.74 28.76 28.78 28.8 28.82 28.84 28.86 28.88 28.9 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

33.25 33.3 33.35 33.4 

Salinity (psu) (solid) 

33.45 33.5 33.55 

20.8 20.85 20.9 20.95 21 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed) 

21.05 21.1 21.15 

28.77 

28.78 

28.79 

28.8 

28.81 

28.82 

28.83 

28.84 

28.85 

20.8 

20.8 

20.9 

20.9 

20.9 

20.9 

21 

21 

21 

21. 

Temperature (°C) 

33.25 33.3 33.35 33.4 33.45 33.5 33.55 

Salinity (psu) 

165
 
Depth (m) 

28.72 28.74 28.76 28.78 28.8 28.82 28.84 28.86 28.88 

File: 2209005 22-Sep-2003 11:52:43 S7.2904 E134.2735 Site: 049 

0 

5 

10 

15 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

33.35	 33.4 33.45 33.5 33.55 33.6 33.65 

Salinity (psu) (solid) 

20.85	 20.9 20.95 21 21.05 21.1 21.15 21.2 21.25 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed) 

28.77 

28.78 

28.79 

28.8 

28.81 

28.82 

28.83 

20.9 

20.9 

20.9 

21 

21 

21 

21 

21.1 

21.1 

2 

Temperature (°C) 

33.3 33.35 33.4 33.45 33.5 33.55 33.6 33.65 

Salinity (psu) 

166
 
Depth (m) 

File: 2209006 22-Sep-2003 11:56:23 S7.2915 E134.2667 Site: 050 

0 

2 

4 

6 

8 

10 

12 

28.65 28.7 28.75 28.8 28.85 28.9 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

28.5 29 29.5 30 30.5 31 31.5 32 

Salinity (psu) (solid) 

32. 5 33 33.5 

17 17.5 18 18.5 19 19.5 20 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed) 

20.5 21 21.5 

28.71 

28.72 

28.73 

28.74 

28.75 

28.76 

28.77 

28.78 

28.79 

28.8 

17.2 

17.7 

18.1 

18.5 

19 

19.4 

19.9 

20.3 

20.7 

21.2 

Temperature (°C) 

28 29 30 31 32 33 34
 

Salinity (psu)
 

167
 
Depth (m) 

File: 2209007 22-Sep-2003 12:00:14 S7.2896 E134.2613 Site: 051 

0 

0.5 

1 

1.5 

2 

2.5 

3 

3.5
 

4
 28.72 28.74 28.76 28.78 28.8 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

28.82 28.84 

33.4 33.45 33.5 

Salinity (psu) (solid) 

33.55 33.6 

20.9 20.95 21 21.05 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed) 

21.1 21.15 

28.745 

28.75 

28.755 

28.76 

28.765 

28.77 

28.775 

28.78 

28.785 

28.79 

20.9 

20.9 

21 

21 

21 

21 

21.1 

21.1 

21.1 

21.1 

Temperature (°C) 

33.35 33.4 33.45 33.5 33.55 33.6 33.65 

Salinity (psu) 

168
 
Depth (m) 

File: 2209008 22-Sep-2003 12:24:19 S7.2763 E134.337 Site: 052 

28.4 28.5 28.6 28.7 28.8 28.9 29 29.1 29.2 

0 

5 

10 

15 

20 

25 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

32.8 32.9 33 33.1 33.2 33.3 33.4 33.5 33.6 

Salinity (psu) (solid) 

20.4 20.5 20.6 20.7 20.8 20.9 21 21.1 21.2 21.3 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed) 

28.7 

28.75 

28.8 

28.85 

28.9 

28.95 

29 

20.4 

20.5 

20.6 

20.6 

20.7 

20.8 

20.9 

21 

21.1 

2 

Temperature (°C) 

32.8 33 33.2 33.4 33.6 

Salinity (psu) 

169
 
Depth (m) 

File: 2209009 22-Sep-2003 12:31:50 S7.2574 E134.3546 Site: 053 

28.2 28.4 28.6 28.8 29 29.2 29.4 29.6 

0 

5 

10 

15 

20 

25 

30 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

32 32.2 32.4 32.6 32.8 33 33.2 33.4 33.6 

Salinity (psu) (solid) 

19.8 20 20.2 20.4 20.6 20.8 21 21.2 21.4 21.6 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed) 

28.6 

28.7 

28.8 

28.9 

29 

29.1 

19.8 

20 

20.1 

20.3 

20.4 

20.6 

20.8 

20.9 

21.1 

2 

Temperature (°C) 

32 32.5 33 33.5 

Salinity (psu) 

170
 
Depth (m) 

File: 2209010 22-Sep-2003 12:39:48 S7.266 E134.3755 Site: 054 

28.2 28.4 28.6 28.8 29 29.2 29.4 29.6 29.8 30 

0 

5 

10 

15 

20 

25 

30 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

32.2 32.4 32.6 32.8 33 33.2 33.4 33.6 

Salinity (psu) (solid) 

19.8 20 20.2 20.4 20.6 20.8 21 21.2 21.4 21.6 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed) 

28.6 

28.7 

28.8 

28.9 

29 

29.1 

29.2 

29.3 

29.4 

19.8 

19.9 

20.1 20.3 

20.4 

20.6 

20.8 

20.9 

21.1 

21.2 

Temperature (°C) 

32 32.5 33 33.5 

Salinity (psu) 

171
 
Depth (m) 

File: 2209011 22-Sep-2003 12:47:11 S7.264 E134.397 Site: 055 

0 

5 

10 

15 

20 

25 

19 

28.7 

31.5 

28.8 

19.5 

28.9 

32 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

32.5 

Salinity (psu) (solid) 

20 20.5 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed) 

29 29.1 29.2 

33 

29.3 

21 

29.4 

33.5 

29.5 

21.5 

28.95 

29 

29.05 

29.1 

29.15 

29.2 

29.25 

29.3 

29.35 

19.1 

19.3 

19.6 

19.8 

20 

20.2 

20.5 

20.7 

20.9 

21.1 

Temperature (°C) 

31 31.5 32 32.5 33 33.5 34
 

Salinity (psu)
 

172
 
File: 2209013 22-Sep-2003 15:06:41 S7.2881 E134.4203 Site: 056 

0 

5 

10 

15 

20 

25 

30 

35 

28.2 28.4 28.6 28.8 29 29.2 29.4 29.6 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

32.6 32.8 33 33.2 33.4 33.6 

Salinity (psu) (solid) 

20.4 20.6 20.8 21 21.2 21.4 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed) 

Depth (m) 

29.15 

29.1 

29.05 

29 

28.95 

28.9 

28.85 

28.8 

28.75 

28.7 

28.65 

32.4 32.6 32.8 33 33.2 33.4 33.6 33.8 

20.1 

20.2 

20.4 

20.5 20.6 

20.7 

20.9 

21 

21.1 

2 

Salinity (psu) 

Temperature (°C) 

173
 
Depth (m) 

File: 0311000 03-Nov-2003 17:20:23 S7.3148 E134.4553 Site: 11b 

29 29.2 29.4 29.6 29.8 30 30.2 30.4 

0 

5 

10 

15 

20 

25 

30 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

33.2 33.3 33.4 33.5 33.6 33.7 

Salinity (psu) (solid) 

20.3 20.4 20.5 20.6 20.7 20.8 20.9 21 21.1 21.2 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed) 

29.3 

29.4 

29.5 

29.6 

29.7 

29.8 

29.9 

30 

20.3 

20.4 

20.5 20.6 

20.6 

20.7 

20.8 

20.9 

20.9 

21 

Temperature (°C) 

33.1 33.2 33.3 33.4 33.5 33.6 33.7 33.8 

Salinity (psu) 

174
 
Depth (m) 

File: 0411000 04-Nov-2003 09:00:29 S7.2342 E134.4515 Site: CTD0 

-2
 

0
 

2
 

4
 

28.6 28.8 29 29.2 29.4 29.6 29.8 30 30.2 30.4 

6 

8 

10 

12 

14 

16 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

5 10 15 20 25 30 

Salinity (psu) (solid) 

-5 0 5 10 15 20
 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed)
 

28.8 

28.9 

29 

29.1 

29.2 

29.3 

29.4 

29.5 

29.6 

29.7 

-3.64 

-0.861 

1.92 

4.69 

7.47 

10.2 

13 

15.8 18.6 

21.4 

Temperature (°C) 

0 5 10 15 20 25 30 35 

Salinity (psu) 

175
 

25 
File: 0411001 04-Nov-2003 09:25:53 S7.234 E134.4513 Site: CTD1 -5 

0 

5 

10 

15 

20
 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

33.72 33.74 33.76 33.78 33.8 33.82 33.84 

Salinity (psu) (solid) 

20.85 20.9 20.95 21 21.05 21.1 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed) 

29.35 29.4 29.45 29.5 29.55 29.6 29.65 29.7 29.75 

Depth (m) 

29.68 

29.66 

29.64 

29.62 

29.6 

29.58 

29.56 

29.54 

29.52 

29.5 

20.87 

20.89 

20.91 

20.93 20.94 

20.96 

20.98 

20.99 

21.01 

2 

33.72 33.74 33.76 33.78 33.8 33.82 33.84 

Salinity (psu) 

Temperature (°C) 

176
 
File: 0411002 04-Nov-2003 09:49:20 S7.2339 E134.4513 Site: CTD2 

28.5 29 29.5 30 30.5 

0 

5 

10 

15 

20 

25 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

Depth (m) 

33. 4 33.5 33 6. 33.7 33.8 33 9.

Salinity (psu) (solid) 

20.4 20.5 20.6 20.7 20.8 20.9 21 21.1 21.2 21.3 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed) 

29.3 

29.4 

29.5 

29.6 

29.7 

29.8 

29.9 

30 

30.1 

30.2 

30.3 

20.4 

20.5 

20.6 

20.7 20.8 

20.9 

20.9 21 

21.1 

21.2 

Temperature (°C) 

33.3 33.4 33.5 33.6 33.7 33.8 33.9 34 

Salinity (psu) 

177
 

34 
 

5 

File: 0411003 04-Nov-2003 10:04:51 S7.2112 E134.448 Site: CTD3 

0 

10 

15 

20 

25 

30 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

33.65	 33.7 33.75 33.8 33.85 33.9 

Salinity (psu) (solid) 

20.85 20.9 20.95 21 21.05 21.1 21.15 21.2 21.25 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed) 

29.1 29.2 29.3 29.4 29.5 29.6 29.7 29.8 

Depth (m) 

29.55 

29.5 

29.45 

29.4 

29.35 

29.3 

20.8 

20.9 

20.9 

20.9 

21 

21 

21 

2 

21.1 

2 

33.6 33.65 33.7 33.75 33.8 33.85 33.9 

Salinity (psu) 

Temperature (°C) 

178
 
Depth (m) 

File: 0411004 04-Nov-2003 10:36:46 S7.21 E134.4222 Site: CTD4 

0 

5 

10 

15 

20 

25 

29.1 29.2 29.3 29.4 29.5 29.6 29.7 29.8 29.9 30 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

20 

32.8 32.9 

20.2 

33 33.1 33.2 33.3 33.4 33.5 

Salinity (psu) (solid) 

20.4 20.6 20.8 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed) 

33.6 

21 

33.7 33.8 

21.2 

29.35 

29.4 

29.45 

29.5 

29.55 

29.6 

29.65 

29.7 

29.75 

29.8 

20.1 

20.2 

20.3 

20.4 

20.5 

20.6 

20.7 

20.9 

21 

21.1 

Temperature (°C) 

32.6 32.8 33 33.2 33.4 33.6 33.8 

Salinity (psu) 

179
 
Depth (m) 

File: 0411005 04-Nov-2003 10:55:43 S7.2084 E134.3986 Site: CTD5 

0 

0.5 

1 

1.5 

2 

2.5
 

3
 

3.5 

29.725 29.73 29.735 29.74 29.745 29.75 29.755 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

33.5 33.55 33.6 33.65 

Salinity (psu) (solid) 

33.7 

20.65 20.7 20.75 20.8 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed) 

20.85 20.9 

29.735 

29.74 

29.745 

29.75 

20.69 

20.71 

20.73 

20.7520.77 

20.7920.81 

20.83 

20.8520.87 

Temperature (°C) 

33.5 33.55 33.6 33.65 33.7 33.75 

Salinity (psu) 

180
 
Depth (m) 

File: 0411006 04-Nov-2003 12:40:39 S7.1567 E134.4174 Site: CTD6 

0
 

2
 

4
 

29.3 29.4 29.5 29.6 29.7 29.8 29.9 30 30.1 30.2 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

6
 

8
 

10
 

12
 

14
 

33.8	 33.85 33.9 33.95 34
 

Salinity (psu) (solid)
 

20.85 20.9 20.95 21 21.05 21.1 21.15 21.2 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed) 

29.4 

29.45 

29.5 

29.55 

29.6 

29.65 

29.7 

29.75 

29.8 

29.85 

20.9 

20.9 

20.9 

21 

21 

21 

2 

21.1 

2 

21.2 

Temperature (°C) 

33.8 33.85 33.9 33.95 34
 

Salinity (psu)
 

181
 
Depth (m) 

File: 0411007 04-Nov-2003 13:23:11 S7.2121 E134.4174 Site: CTD7 

-5 

0 

5
 

28.4 28.6 28.8 29 29.2 29.4 29.6 29.8 30 30.2 30.4 

10
 

15
 

20
 

25
 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

5 10 15 20 25 30
 

Salinity (psu) (solid)
 

-5 0 5 10 15 20
 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed)
 

28.7 

28.8 

28.9 

29 

29.1 

29.2 

29.3 

29.4 

29.5 

29.6 

-3.89 

-1.081.73 

4.53 

7.34 

10.1 

13 

15.8 

18.6 

21.4 

Temperature (°C) 

0 5 10 15 20 25 30 35
 

Salinity (psu)
 

182
 

25 
File: 0411008 04-Nov-2003 13:57:24 S7.261 E134.416 Site: CTD8 

0 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

30.5 

17.5 

29.5 

31 

18 

30 

31.5 

18.5 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

32 32.5 

Salinity (psu) (solid) 

19 19.5 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed) 

30.5 31 

33 

20 

31.5 

33.5 

20.5 21 

32 

Depth (m) 

31.2 

31 

30.8 

30.6 

30.4 

30.2 

30 

17.9 

18.3 

18.6 

18.9 

19.3 

19.6 

19.9 

20.2 

20.6 

2 

30.5 31 31.5 32 32.5 33 33.5 34
 

Salinity (psu)
 

Temperature (°C) 

183
 
Depth (m) 

File: 0411009 04-Nov-2003 15:03:50 S7.2684 E134.4299 Site: CTD9 

0
 

1
 

2
 

28 28.5 29 29.5 30 30.5 31 31.5 32 32.5 33 

3 

4 

5 

6 

7 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

33.2 33.3 33.4 33.5 33.6 33.7 33.8 

Salinity (psu) (solid) 

19.8	 20 20.2 20.4 20.6 20.8 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed) 

29.8 

30 

30.2 

30.4 

30.6 

30.8 

31 

31.2 

31.4 

31.6 19.8 19.9 

20 

20.2 

20.3 

20.4 

20.5 

20.7 

20 

20.9 

Temperature (°C) 

33.2 33.4 33.6 33.8 

Salinity (psu) 

184
 

21 
Depth (m) 

File: 0411010 04-Nov-2003 15:45:25 S7.2101 E134.4314 Site: CTD10 

-5 

0 

5
 

28 28.5 29 29.5 30 30.5 31 31.5 

10
 

15
 

20
 

25
 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

5 10 15 20 25 30
 

Salinity (psu) (solid)
 

-5 0 5 10 15 20
 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed)
 

28.5 

29 

29.5 

30 

-3.64 

-0.876 

1.89 

4.65 7.41 

10.2 12.9 

15.7 

18.5 

21.2 

Temperature (°C) 

0 5 10 15 20 25 30 35
 

Salinity (psu)
 

185
 

25 
Depth (m) 

File: 0411011 04-Nov-2003 16:26:20 S7.1576 E134.4314 Site: CTD11 

-5
 

0
 

5
 

28.5 29 29.5 30 30.5 

10
 

15
 

20
 

25
 

30
 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

5 10 15 20 25 30
 

Salinity (psu) (solid)
 

-5 0 5 10 15 20
 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed)
 

29.1 

29.2 

29.3 

29.4 

29.5 

29.6 

29.7 

29.8 

29.9 

30 

30.1 

-3.66 

-0.921.82 

4.56 7.3 

10 

12.8 15.5 18.3 

21 

Temperature (°C) 

0 5 10 15 20 25 30 35
 

Salinity (psu)
 

186
 

25 
Depth (m) 

File: 0411012 04-Nov-2003 16:57:41 S7.2739 E134.4438 Site: CTD12 

0 

2 

4 

28.5 29 29.5 30 30.5 31 31.5 32 

6 

8 

10 

12 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

33.2 33.3 33.4 33.5 33.6 33.7 33.8 33.9 34 34.1 

Salinity (psu) (solid) 

19.8 20 20.2 20.4 20.6 20.8 21 21.2 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed) 

30 

30.2 

30.4 

30.6 

30.8 

31 

31.2 19.9 

20 

20.2 

20.3 20.4 20.6 

20.7 

20.8 

21 

2 

Temperature (°C) 

33.2 33.4 33.6 33.8 34 34.2 

Salinity (psu) 

187
 
Depth (m) 

29.45 29.5 29.55 29.6 29.65 29.7 

File: 0411013 04-Nov-2003 17:16:10 S7.2897 E134.4593 Site: CTD13 

0 

5 

10 

15 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

33.45	 33.5 33.55 33.6 33.65 33.7 33.75 

Salinity (psu) (solid) 

20.65	 20.7 20.75 20.8 20.85 20.9 20.95 21 21.05 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed) 

29.62 

29.6 

33.45 33.5 33.55 33.6 33.65 33.7 33.75 33.8 

20.7 

20.7 

20.8 

20.8 

20.8 

20.8 

20.9 

20.9 

20.9 

21 

29.58 

29.56 

29.54 

29.52 

Salinity (psu) 

Temperature (°C) 

188
 
Depth (m) 

File: 0411014 04-Nov-2003 17:34:03 S7.3026 E134.4722 Site: CTD14 

-2
 

0
 

2
 

4
 

29.55 29.56 29.57 29.58 29.59 29.6 29.61 29.62 

6 

8 

10 

12 

14 

16 

18 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

33.35	 33.4 33.45 33.5 33.55 33.6 33.65 33.7 

Salinity (psu) (solid) 

20.6	 20.65 20.7 20.75 20.8 20.85 20.9 20.95
 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed)
 

29.565 

29.57 

29.575 

29.58 

29.585 

29.59 

29.595 

20.6 

20.7 

20.7 

20.7 

20.7 

20.8 

20.8 

20.8 

20.9 

20.9 

Temperature (°C) 

33.3 33.4 33.5 33.6 33.7 

Salinity (psu) 

189
 

21 
 

Depth (m) 

File: 0511000 05-Nov-2003 10:12:50 S7.1415 E134.2971 Site: Tide 

0.1 

0.2 

0.3 

0.4 

0.5 

0.6 

0.7 

0.8 

0.9 

30.34 30.36 30.38 30.4 30.42 30.44 30.46 30.48 30.5 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

33.5 33.55 33.6 33.65 33.7 33.75 

Salinity (psu) (solid) 

33.8 33.85 33.9 

20.5 20.55 20.6 20.65 20.7 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed) 

20.75 20.8 20.85 

30.37 

30.38 

30.39 

30.4 

30.41 

30.42 

30.43 

20.5 

20.5 

20.5 

20.6 

20.6 

20.6 

20.7 

20.7 

20.7 

20.8

Temperature (°C) 

33.5 33.6 33.7 33.8 33.9 

Salinity (psu) 

190
 
Depth (m) 

File: 0511001 05-Nov-2003 10:20:07 S7.1415 E134.2971 Site: C2 

0 

2 

4 

6 

8 

10 

12 

14 

16 

18 

20 

29.2 29.4 29.6 29.8 30 30.2 30.4 30.6 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

33.3 33.4 33.5 33.6 

Salinity (psu) (solid) 

33.7 33.8 

20.3 20.4 20.5 20.6 20.7 20.8 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed) 

20.9 21 21.1 

29.7 

29.8 

29.9 

30 

30.1 

30.2 

30.3 

30.4 

20.3 20.4 

20.4 

20.5 

20.6 

20.6 

20.7 

20 

20.9 

2 

Temperature (°C) 

33.2 33.3 33.4 33.5 33.6 33.7 33.8 

Salinity (psu) 

191
 
Depth (m) 

File: 0511002 05-Nov-2003 10:41:59 S7.1431 E134.2699 Site: CTD2 

-1 

0 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

29.5 30 30.5 31 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

31.5 32 

33.4 33.5 33.6 33.7 

Salinity (psu) (solid) 

33.8 33.9 

20 20.1 20.2 20.3 20.4 20.5 20.6 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed) 

20.7 20.8 20.9 

30.2 

30.4 

30.6 

30.8 

31 

31.2 

31.4 

20 20.1 

20.2 

20.3 

20.4 

20.5 

20.5 

20.6 

20.7 20. 

Temperature (°C) 

33.3 33.4 33.5 33.6 33.7 33.8 33.9 34
 

Salinity (psu)
 

192
 
Depth (m) 

File: 0511003 05-Nov-2003 11:00:43 S7.1441 E134.2523 Site: C1 

0
 

1
 

2
 

3
 

4
 

5
 

6
 

7
 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

33.4	 33.5 33.6 33.7 33.8 33.9 

Salinity (psu) (solid) 

30 30.2 30.4 30.6 30.8 31 31.2 31.4 31.6 31.8 32
 

20 20.1 20.2 20.3 20.4 20.5 20.6 20.7 20.8 20.9 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed) 

30.5 

30.6 

30.7 

30.8 

30.9 

31 

31.1 

31.2 

31.3 

31.4 

31.5 

20 

20.1 

20.2 

20.3 

20.4 

20.4 

20.5 

20.6 

20.7 

20.8 

Temperature (°C) 

33.4 33.5 33.6 33.7 33.8 33.9 34
 

Salinity (psu)
 

193
 
Depth (m) 

File: 0511004 05-Nov-2003 11:23:12 S7.1277 E134.2512 Site: CTD4 

0 

30.2 30.4 30.6 30.8 31 31.2 31.4 31.6 31.8 32 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

33.3 33.4 33.5 33.6 33.7 33 8. 33.9 34 

Salinity (psu) (solid) 

20 20.1 20.2 20.3 20.4 20.5 20.6 20.7 20.8 20.9 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed) 

30.4 

30.6 

30.8 

31 

31.2 

31.4 

31.6 

31.8 

20 

20 

20.2 

20.4 

20.5 

20.6 

20.7 

20.8 

Temperature (°C) 

33.4 33.5 33.6 33.7 33.8 33.9 34
 

Salinity (psu)
 

194
 
Depth (m) 

File: 0511005 05-Nov-2003 11:48:04 S7.1493 E134.2626 Site: CTD5 

30.4 30.5 30.6 30.7 30.8 30.9 31 31.1 31.2 31.3 31.4 

0 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

33.45 33.5 33.55 33.6 33.65 33.7 33.75 33.8 3 85 3. 33.9 

Salinity (psu) (solid) 

20.1 20.2 20.3 20.4 20.5 20.6 20.7 20.8 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed) 

30.4 

30.5 

30.6 

30.7 

30.8 

30.9 

31 

31.1 

31.2 

31.3 

31.4 

20.2 

20.2 

20.3 

20.3 

20.4 

20.4 

20.5 

20.6 20.6 

20.7 

Temperature (°C) 

33.55 33.6 33.65 33.7 33.75 

Salinity (psu) 

195
 
Depth (m) 

File: 0511006 05-Nov-2003 11:58:55 S7.1593 E134.2681 Site: CTD6 

29.5 30 30.5 31 31.5 32 

0 

2 

4 

6 

8 

10 

12 

14 

16 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

33.2 33.3 33.4 33.5 33.6 33.7 33.8 33.9 34 34.1 34.2 

Salinity (psu) (solid) 

19.8 20 20.2 20.4 20.6 20.8 21 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed) 

30 

30.5 

31 

31.5 

32 

19.8 

19.9 

20 

20.1 

20.2 

20.4 

20.5 

20.6 

20.7 

20.8 

Temperature (°C) 

33.3 33.4 33.5 33.6 33.7 33.8 

Salinity (psu) 

196
 
Depth (m) 

File: 0511007 05-Nov-2003 12:18:07 S7.1649 E134.2547 Site: CTD7 

29.8 30 30.2 30.4 30.6 30.8 31 

-2 

0 

2 

4 

6 

8 

10 

12 

14 

16 

18 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

33.45 33.5 33.55 33.6 33.65 33.7 33.75 33.8 33.85 33.9 33.95 

Salinity (psu) (solid) 

20.4 20.45 20.5 20.55 20.6 20.65 20.7 20.75 20.8 20.85 20.9 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed) 

30 

30.2 

30.4 

30.6 

30.8 

31 

20.4 

20.4 

2 

20.6 

2 

20.7 

20 

20.8 

2 

Temperature (°C) 

33.6 33.65 33.7 33.75 33.8 33.85 

Salinity (psu) 

197
 
Depth (m) 

File: 0511008 05-Nov-2003 12:39:10 S7.1479 E134.2736 Site: CTD8 

0
 

2
 

4
 

28 28.5 29 29.5 30 30.5 31 31.5 32 32.5 

6 

8 

10 

12 

14 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

32.9	 33 33.1 33.2 33.3 33.4 33.5 33.6 33.7 33.8 

Salinity (psu) (solid) 

19.8	 20 20.2 20.4 20.6 20.8
 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed)
 

29.8 

30 

30.2 

30.4 

30.6 

30.8 

31 

31.2 

31.4 

31.6 

19.6 19.7 

19.9 

20 20.2 

20.3 

20.5 

20.6 

20.8 

20.9 

Temperature (°C) 

32.8 33 33.2 33.4 33.6 33.8 

Salinity (psu) 

198
 

21 
Temperature (°C) Depth (m) 

File: 0511009 05-Nov-2003 12:55:42 S7.1344 E134.29 Site: CTD9 

-0.5 

0 

0.5 

1 

1.5 

2 

2.5 

3 

3.5 

4 

4.5 

30.4 30.6 30.8 31 31.2 31.4 31.6 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

33.4	 33.5 33.6 33.7 33.8 33.9 

Salinity (psu) (solid) 

20 20.1 20.2 20.3 20.4 20.5 20.6 20.7 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed) 

31.6 

31.4 

31.2 

31 

30.8 

30.6 

30.4 

33.4 33.5 33.6 33.7 33.8 

20 

20.1 

20.2 

20.2 

20.3 

20.4 

20.5 

20.5 

20.6 

20.7 

Salinity (psu) 

199
 
Depth (m) 10 

15 

File: 0511010 05-Nov-2003 16:09:03 S7.3206 E134.3514 Site: CTD10 

-5 

0 

5 

20 

25 

29 29.5 30 30.5 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

30 

33.2 33.3 33.4 33.5 33.6 33.7 33.8 33.9 

Salinity (psu) (solid) 

20.3 20.4 20.5 20.6 20.7 20.8 20.9 21 21.1 21.2 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed) 

29.4 

29.5 

29.6 

29.7 

29.8 

29.9 

30 

20.3 

20.4 

20.5 

20.6 

20.7 

20.8 

20.9 

20.9 

21 

21.1 

Temperature (°C) 

33.2 33.4 33.6 33.8 34 

Salinity (psu) 

200
 
Depth (m) 

File: 0511011 05-Nov-2003 16:42:34 S7.3591 E134.3267 Site: CTD11 

0 

5 

10 

29.2 29.4 29.6 29.8 30 30.2 30.4 30.6 

15 

20 

25 

30 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

33 33.1 33.2 33.3 33.4 33.5 33.6 33.7 33.8 33.9 

Salinity (psu) (solid) 

20 20.2 20.4 20.6 20.8 21
 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed)
 

29.8 

29.9 

30 

30.1 

30.2 

30.3 

30.4 

20 

20.2 20.3 

20.4 

20.5 

20.6 

20.7 

20.8 

20 

21 

Temperature (°C) 

33 33.2 33.4 33.6 33.8 34 

Salinity (psu) 

201
 

21.2 
Depth (m) 

File: 0511012 05-Nov-2003 17:06:14 S7.3881 E134.308 Site: CTD12 

-5
 

0
 

5
 

28.8 29 29.2 29.4 29.6 29.8 30 30.2 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

33.6 33.65 33.7 33.75 33.8 33.85 33.9 33.95 

Salinity (psu) (solid) 

20.8 20.9 21 21.1 21.2 21.3 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed) 

10
 

15
 

20
 

25
 

30
 

29.3 

29.4 

29.5 

29.6 

29.7 

29.8 

20.7 

20.8 

20.8 

20.9 

20.9 

21 

21 

21.1 

21.1 

2 

Temperature (°C) 

33.6 33.7 33.8 33.9 34
 

Salinity (psu)
 

202
 

21.4 
Depth (m) 

File: 0511013 05-Nov-2003 17:22:59 S7.4471 E134.3557 Site: CTD13 

29.3 29.35 29.4 29.45 29.5 29.55 29.6 29.65 

0 

5 

10 

15 

20 

25 

30 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

33.4 33.5 33.6 33.7 33.8 33.9 

Salinity (psu) (solid) 

20.6 20.7 20.8 20.9 21 21.1 21.2 21.3 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed) 

29.38 

29.4 

29.42 

29.44 

29.46 

29.48 

29.5 

29.52 

29.54 

29.56 

20.6 20.7 

20.7 

20.8 

20.9 

20.9 

21 

21 

21.1 

21. 

Temperature (°C) 

33.3 33.4 33.5 33.6 33.7 33.8 33.9 34
 

Salinity (psu)
 

203
 
Depth (m) 

File: 0511014 05-Nov-2003 18:17:36 S7.3757 E134.387 Site: CTD14 

0 

5 

29 29.5 30	 30.5 

10 

15 

20 

25 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

32.8	 33 33.2 33.4 33.6 33.8 

Salinity (psu) (solid) 

20 20.2 20.4 20.6 20.8 21
 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed)
 

29.45 

29.5 

29.55 

29.6 

29.65 

29.7 

29.75 

29.8 

29.85 

29.9 

29.95 

20.1 

20.2 

20.3 

20.4 

20.5 

20.6 

20.8 

20.9 

21 

2

Temperature (°C) 

32.8 33 33.2 33.4 33.6 33.8 34 

Salinity (psu) 

204
 

21.2 
Depth (m) 

File: 0511015 05-Nov-2003 18:31:29 S7.363 E134.3965 Site: CTD14 

0 

5 

10 

29 29.2 29.4 29.6 29.8 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

30 30.2 30.4 

233. 33.3 33.4 33.5 33.6 

Salinity (psu) (solid) 

33.7 33.8 33.9 

20.4 20.5 20.6 20.7 20.8 20.9 21 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed) 

21.1 21.2 21.3 

15 

20 

25 

30
 

29.4 

29.5 

29.6 

29.7 

29.8 

29.9 

20.4 

20.5 

20.6 

20.6 

20.7 

20.8 

20.9 

21 

21 

21.1 

Temperature (°C) 

33.2 33.4 33.6 33.8 

Salinity (psu) 

205
 
Depth (m) 

File: 0611000 06-Nov-2003 10:01:57 S7.4769 E134.3955 Site: CTD0 

0.3 

0.32 

0.34 

0.36 

0.38 

0.4 

0.42 

0.44 

0.46 

30.09 30.095 30.1 30.105 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

30.11 

32.8 32.9 33 33.1 33.2 33.3 

Salinity (psu) (solid) 

33.4 33.5 33.6 

20 20.1 20.2 20.3 20.4 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed) 

20.5 20.6 20.7 

30.098 

30.099 

30.1 

30.101 

30.102 

30.103 

30.104 

30.105 

30.106 

30.107 

30.108 

20 

20.1 

20.2 

20.3 

20.3 

20.4 

20.5 

20.5 

20.6 

20.7 

Temperature (°C) 

32.8 33 33.2 33.4 33.6 

Salinity (psu) 

206
 
Depth (m) 

File: 0611001 06-Nov-2003 10:22:25 S7.4925 E134.4152 Site: CTD1 

0 

2 

4 

6 

8 

10 

12 

14 

16 

29.4 29.5 29.6 29.7 29.8 29.9 30 30.1 30.2 30.3 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 

Salinity (psu) (solid) 

12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed) 

21 

29.8 

29.85 

29.9 

29.95 

30 

30.05 

30.1 

30.15 

30.2 

30.25 

12.9 

13.7 

14.6 

15.5 16.4 

17.3 18.2 

19 

19.9 

20.8 

Temperature (°C) 

24 26 28 30 32 34
 

Salinity (psu)
 

207
 
Depth (m) 

29.55 29.6 29.65 29.7 29.75 29.8 29.85 29.9 

File: 0611002 06-Nov-2003 10:43:17 S7.5102 E134.4362 Site: CTD2 

0 

0.5 

1 

1.5 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

33.5	 33.55 33.6 33.65 33.7 33.75 33.8 33.85 

Salinity (psu) (solid) 

20.75	 20.8 20.85 20.9 20.95 21 21.05 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed) 

29.82 

29.8 

29.78 

29.76 

29.74 

29.72 

29.7 

29.68 

29.66 

29.64 

20.7 

20.7 

20.7 

20.8 

20.8 

20.8 

20.9 

20.9 

20.9 

2 

33.5 33.6 33.7 33.8 

Salinity (psu) 

Temperature (°C) 

208
 
Temperature (°C) 

File: 0611003 06-Nov-2003 11:05:42 S7.5168 E134.3855 Site: CTD3 

0 

0.1 

0.2 

0.3 

0.4 

0.5 

0.6 

Depth (m) 

0.7 

30.03	 30.04 30.05 30.06 30.07 30.08 30.09 30.1 30.11 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

33.48 33.49 33.5 33.51 33.52 33.53 33.54 33.55 33.56 33.57 33.58 

Salinity (psu) (solid) 

20.54 20.56 20.58 20.6 20.62 20.64 20.66 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed) 

30.08 

30.075 

30.07 

30.065 

30.06 

30.055 

30.05 

30.045 

20.56 

20.57 

20.58 

20.59 

20.6 

20.61 

20.62 

20.63 

20.64 

2 

33.48 33.5 33.52 33.54 33.56 33.58 

Salinity (psu) 

209
 
Depth (m) 

File: 0611004 06-Nov-2003 11:36:03 S7.4923 E134.4176 Site: CTD4 

29.7 29.8 29.9 30 30.1 30.2 30.3 30.4 30.5 30.6 

0 

2 

4 

6 

8 

10 

12 

14 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

33.5 33.55 33.6 33.65 33.7 33.75 33.8 33.85 

Salinity (psu) (solid) 

20.5 20.55 20.6 20.65 20.7 20.75 20.8 20.85 20.9 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed) 

29.8 

29.9 

30 

30.1 

30.2 

30.3 

30.4 

20.5 

20.6 20.6 

20.7 

20.7 

20.8 

20.8 

20.9 

20.9 20.9 

Temperature (°C) 

33.6 33.65 33.7 33.75 33.8 33.85 

Salinity (psu) 

210
 
Depth (m) 

File: 0611005 06-Nov-2003 12:05:49 S7.4923 E134.4176 Site: CTD5 

29 29.1 29.2 29.3 29.4 29.5 29.6 29.7 29.8 29.9 

-5 

0 

5 

10 

15 

20 

25 

30 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

33.2 33.3 33.4 33.5 33.6 33.7 33.8 

Salinity (psu) (solid) 

20.4 20.5 20.6 20.7 20.8 20.9 21 21.1 21.2 21.3 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed) 

29.25 

29.3 

29.35 

29.4 

29.45 

29.5 

29.55 

29.6 

29.65 

29.7 

20.5 

20.6 20.6 

20.7 

20.8 

20.8 

20.9 

21 

21 

21.1 

Temperature (°C) 

33.2 33.3 33.4 33.5 33.6 33.7 33.8 33.9 

Salinity (psu) 

211
 
Depth (m) 

File: 0711000 07-Nov-2003 07:12:59 S7.7726 E134.5938 Site: CTD0 

-2
 

0
 

2
 

4
 

29.74 29.76 29.78 29.8 29.82 29.84 29.86 

6 

8 

10 

12 

14 

16 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

5 10 15 20 25 30
 

Salinity (psu) (solid)
 

-5 0 5 10 15 20
 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed)
 

29.76 

29.765 

29.77 

29.775 

29.78 

29.785 

29.79 

29.795 

29.8 

29.805 

29.81 

-1.08 

1.35 

3.78 

6.21 

8.64 

11.1 

13.5 

15.9 

18.4 

20.8 

Temperature (°C) 

5 10 15 20 25 30 35 

Salinity (psu) 

212
 

25 
Depth (m) 

File: 0711001 07-Nov-2003 08:31:36 S7.8454 E134.5425 Site: CTD1 

0
 

2
 

4
 

29.25 29.3 29.35 29.4 29.45 29.5 29.55 29.6 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

6 

8 

10 

12 

14 

33.2	 33.3 33.4 33.5 33.6 33.7 33.8 

Salinity (psu) (solid) 

20.5 20.6 20.7 20.8 20.9 21 21.1 21.2 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed) 

29.3 

29.32 

29.34 

29.36 

29.38 

29.4 

29.42 

29.44 

29.46 

20.5 

20.6 

20.6 

20.7 

20.8 

20.8 

20.9 

21 

21 

21.1

Temperature (°C) 

33.2 33.4 33.6 33.8 

Salinity (psu) 

213
 
 

Depth (m) 

File: 0711002 07-Nov-2003 09:27:51 S7.9139 E134.504 Site: CTD2 

0 

0.5
 

1
 

1.5
 

2
 

2.5
 

3
 

3.5
 

4
 

29.1 29.11 29.12 29.13 29.14 29.15 29.16 29.17 29.18 29.19 29.2 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

20 22 24 26 28 30 32
 

Salinity (psu) (solid)
 

8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22
 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed)
 

29.125 

29.13 

29.135 

29.14 

29.145 

29.15 

29.155 

29.16 

29.165 

29.17 

9.64 

10.9 

12.2 

13.4 

14.7 

15.9 

17.2 

18.4 

19.7 

21 

Temperature (°C) 

20 25 30 35
 

Salinity (psu)
 

214
 
Depth (m) 

File: 0711003 07-Nov-2003 11:38:38 S7.9397 E134.6365 Site: CTD3 

0 

5 

10 

29.1 29.2 29.3 29.4 29.5 29.6 29.7 29.8 29.9 

15 

20 

25 

30 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

31 31.5 32 32.5 33 33.5 

Salinity (psu) (solid) 

18.5	 19 19.5 20 20.5 21
 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed)
 

29.35 

29.4 

29.45 

29.5 

29.55 

29.6 

29.65 

29.7 

29.75 

18.7 

18.9 

19.2 

19.5 

19.7 

20 

20.3 

20.6 

20.8 

21.1 

Temperature (°C) 

30.5 31 31.5 32 32.5 33 33.5 34 

Salinity (psu) 

215
 

21.5 
 

Depth (m) 

File: 0711004 07-Nov-2003 12:19:53 S7.976 E134.6713 Site: CTD4 

0
 

1
 

2
 

3
 

29.3 29.4 29.5 29.6 29.7 29.8 29.9 30 30.1 

4 

5 

6 

7 

8 

9 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

33.2	 33.3 33.4 33.5 33.6 33.7 33.8
 

Salinity (psu) (solid)
 

20.4 20.5 20.6 20.7 20.8 20.9 21 21.1 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed) 

29.45 

29.5 

29.55 

29.6 

29.65 

29.7 

29.75 

29.8 

20.4 

20.5 

20.6 

20.6 

20.7 

20.8 

20.8 

20.9 

21 

21

Temperature (°C) 

33.2 33.3 33.4 33.5 33.6 33.7 33.8 33.9 

Salinity (psu) 

216
 
File: 0711005 07-Nov-2003 12:43:20 S7.9925 E134.6891 Site: CTD5 

-0.2 

0 

0.2 

0.4 

0.6 

0.8 

1 

Depth (m) 

1.2 

28.94 28.95 28.96 28.97 28.98 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

28.99 29 29.01 

33.05 33.06 33.07 33.08 33 09. 33.1 

Salinity (psu) (solid) 

33.11 33.12 33.13 

20.6 20.61 20.62 20.63 20.64 20.65 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed) 

20.66 20.67 20.68 

28.965 

28.97 

28.975 

28.98 

28.985 

28.99 

20.6 

20.61 

20.62 

20.63 

20.64 

20.65 

20.65 

20.66 

20.67 

20.6

Temperature (°C) 

33.04 33.06 33.08 33.1 33.12 33.14 

Salinity (psu) 

217
 
 

Depth (m) 

File: 0711006 07-Nov-2003 13:22:33 S7.879 E134.6661 Site: CTD6 

0 

2 

4 

6 

8 

10 

12 

14 

16 

18 

29.49 29.5 29.51 29.52 29.53 29.54 29.55 29.56 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

33.6 33.65 33.7 33.75 

Salinity (psu) (solid) 

33 8. 33.85 

20.8 20.85 20.9 20.95 21 21.05 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed) 

21.1 21.15 21.2 

29.51 

29.515 

29.52 

29.525 

29.53 

29.535 

20.8 

20.8 

20.9 

20.9 

20.9 

20.9 

21 

21 

21 

21 

Temperature (°C) 

33.6 33.65 33.7 33.75 33.8 33.85 

Salinity (psu) 

218
 
 

Depth (m) 

File: 0711007 07-Nov-2003 13:52:10 S7.849 E134.6405 Site: CTD7 

29.2 29.3 29.4 29.5 29.6 29.7 29.8 29.9 

0 

5 

10 

15 

20 

25 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

33. .74 72 33 33.76 33.78 33.8 33. 84 82 33. 33.86 33.88 33.9 

Salinity (psu) (solid) 

20.85 20.9 20.95 21 21.05 21.1 21.15 21.2 21.25 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed) 

29.4 

29.45 

29.5 

29.55 

29.6 

29.65 

20.9 

20.9 21 

21 

21 

21 

21.1 21.1 

21.1 

Temperature (°C) 

33.7 33.75 33.8 33.85 33.9 

Salinity (psu) 

219
 
Depth (m) 

File: 0711008 07-Nov-2003 14:21:58 S7.8177 E134.61 Site: CTD8 

29.7 29.72 29.74 29.76 29.78 29.8 29.82 

0 

5 

10 

15 

20 

25 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

33.68 33.7 33.72 33.74 33.76 33.78 33.8 33.82 33.84 33.86 

Salinity (psu) (solid) 

20.8 20.85 20.9 20.95 21 21.05 21.1 21.15 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed) 

29.73 

29.74 

29.75 

29.76 

29.77 

29.78 

20.81 

20.83 20.86 

20.88 

20.9 

20.92 

20.94 

20.95 

20.9

Temperature (°C) 

33.7 33.75 33.8 33.85 

Salinity (psu) 

220
 
Depth (m) 

File: 0711009 07-Nov-2003 14:50:19 S7.7728 E134.5873 Site: CTD9 

0
 

2
 

4
 

29.35 29.4 29.45 29.5 29.55 29.6 29.65 

6 

8 

10 

12 

14 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

33.6	 33.65 33.7 33.75 33.8 33.85
 

Salinity (psu) (solid)
 

20.8 20.85 20.9 20.95 21 21.05 21.1 21.15 21.2 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed) 

29.44 

29.46 

29.48 

29.5 

29.52 

29.54 

29.56 

20.8 

20.9 

20.9 

20.9 

20.9 

21 

21 

21 

21.1 

21.1 

Temperature (°C) 

33.6 33.65 33.7 33.75 33.8 33.85 33.9 

Salinity (psu) 

221
 
File: 0711010 07-Nov-2003 15:14:18 S7.7444 E134.5779 Site: CTD10 

0
 

1
 

2
 

3
 

29.495 29.5 29.505 29.51 29.515 29.52 29.525 

Depth (m) 4 

5 

6 

7 

8 

9 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

33.68	 33.7 33.72 33.74 33.76 33.78 33.8 33.82 33.84 33.86
 

Salinity (psu) (solid)
 

20.9 20.92 20.94 20.96 20.98 21 21.02 21.04 21.06 21.08 21.1 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed) 

29.5 

29.505 

29.51 

29.515 

20.9 

20.92 

20.94 

20.95 

20.97 

20.99 

21 

21.02 

21.04 

21.0 

Temperature (°C) 

33.7 33.75 33.8 33.85 

Salinity (psu) 

222
 
Depth (m) 

File: 0711011 07-Nov-2003 15:30:45 S7.7258 E134.5807 Site: CTD11 

0 

0.2 

0.4 

0.6 

29.56 29.58 29.6 29.62 29.64 29.66 

0.8 

1 

1.2 

1.4 

1.6 

1.8 

2 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

33.55 33.6 33 65 . 33 7. 33.75 

Salinity (psu) (solid) 

20.75	 20.8 20.85 20.9 20.95 21 21.05 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed) 

29.56 

29.57 

29.58 

29.59 

29.6 

29.61 

29.62 

20.7 

20.8 

20.8 

20.8 

20.8 

20.9 

20.9 

20.9 

20.9 

21 

Temperature (°C) 

33.5 33.55 33.6 33.65 33.7 33.75 33.8 

Salinity (psu) 

223
 
Depth (m) 

File: 0911000 09-Nov-2003 15:15:25 S7.2826 E134.5026 Site: 11C1 

-2 

0 

2 

4 

6 

8 

10 

12 

14 

16 

18 

28.8 29 29.2 29.4 29.6 29.8 30 30.2 30.4 30.6 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

33.55 33.6 33.65 33.7 

Salinity (psu) (solid) 

33.75 33.8 

20.5 20.6 20.7 20.8 20.9 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed) 

21 21.1 21.2 

29.4 

29.5 

29.6 

29.7 

29.8 

29.9 

30 

30.1 

30.2 20.6 

20.6 

20.7 

20.7 

20.8 

20.8 

20 

20.9 

2 

21 

Temperature (°C) 

33.5 33.55 33.6 33.65 33.7 33.75 33.8 33.85 

Salinity (psu) 

224
 
Depth (m) 

File: 0911001 09-Nov-2003 15:37:48 S7.2646 E134.4818 Site: 11C2 

0 

5 

10 

15 

20 

25 

29.3 29.4 29.5 29.6 29.7 29.8 29.9 30 30.1 30.2 30.3 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

33.55 33.6 33.65 33.7 33.75 33.8 33.85 33.9 

Salinity (psu) (solid) 

33.95 34 34.05 

20.75 20.8 20.85 20.9 20.95 21 21.05 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed) 

21.1 21.15 21.2 

29.4 

29.5 

29.6 

29.7 

29.8 

29.9 

30 

30.1 

30.2 

30.3 20.7 

20.7 

20.8 

20.8 

20.9 

20.9 

20.9 21 21 

21.1 

Temperature (°C) 

33.7 33.75 33.8 33.85 

Salinity (psu) 

225
 
Depth (m) 

File: 0911002 09-Nov-2003 15:56:01 S7.2472 E134.4664 Site: 11C3 

0 

2 

4 

6 

8 

10 

12 

14 

16 

18 

20 

29.6 29.7 29.8 29.9 30 30.1 30.2 30.3 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

33.65	 33.7 33.75 33.8 33.85 33.9 

Salinity (psu) (solid) 

20.75	 20.8 20.85 20.9 20.95 21 21.05 21.1 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed) 

29.6 

29.7 

29.8 

29.9 

30 

30.1 20.7 

20.8 

20.8 

20.8 

20.8 

20.9 

20.9 

20.9 

21 

21 

Temperature (°C) 

33.7 33.75 33.8 33.85 

Salinity (psu) 

226
 
Depth (m) 

File: 0911003 09-Nov-2003 16:35:46 S7.3435 E134.5722 Site: 10A1 

-5 

0 

5 

10 

15 

20 

25 

30 

28.8 29 29.2 29.4 29.6 29.8 30 30.2 30.4 30.6 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

5 10 15 20 25 30
 

Salinity (psu) (solid)
 

-5 0 5 10 15 20
 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed)
 

29.6 

29.7 

29.8 

29.9 

30 

30.1 

30.2 

30.3 

-3.62 

-0.9041.81 

4.53 

7.25 

9.96 

12.7 15.4 

18.1 

Temperature (

20.8 

°C) 

0 5 10 15 20 25 30 35
 

Salinity (psu)
 

227
 

25 
Depth (m) 

File: 0911004 09-Nov-2003 17:33:09 S7.3676 E134.5999 Site: CTD4 

0 

5 

10 

29	 29.5 30 30.5 

15 

20 

25 

30 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

33.2	 33.3 33.4 33.5 33.6 33.7 33.8 

Salinity (psu) (solid) 

20.3 20.4 20.5 20.6 20.7 20.8 20.9 21 21.1 21.2 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed) 

29.6 

29.7 

29.8 

29.9 

30 

30.1 

30.2 20.3 

20.4 

20.4 

20.5 

20.6 

20.7 

20.8 

20.9 

20.9 

21 

Temperature (°C) 

33.2 33.4 33.6 33.8 

Salinity (psu) 

228
 
Depth (m) 

File: 1111000 11-Nov-2003 09:31:36 S7.6084 E134.5218 Site: 6A 

0 

5 

10 

15 

20 

25 

30 

20.6 

33.45 

29.6 

20.65 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

33.5 33.55 33.6 33.65 

Salinity (psu) (solid) 

29.62 29.64 29.66 29.68 

20.7 20.75 20.8 20.85 20.9 20.95 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed) 

33.7 

29.7 

21 21.05 

29.63 

29.64 

29.65 

29.66 

29.67 

29.68 

20.6 

20.7 

20.7 

20.7 

20.8 

20.8 

20.8 

20.8 

20.9 

20.9

Temperature (°C) 

33.4 33.45 33.5 33.55 33.6 33.65 33.7 33.75 

Salinity (psu) 

229
 
Depth (m) 

File: 1111001 11-Nov-2003 10:11:45 S7.6282 E134.5511 Site: 6Af 

0 

5 

10 

15 

20 

25 

30 

33.5 

20.6 

29.1 

33.55 

20.7 

29.2 29.3 

33.6 

20.8 

29.4 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

33.65 33.7 

Salinity (psu) (solid) 

20.9 21 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed) 

29.5 29.6 29.7 

33.75 

21.1 

29.8 29.9 

33.8 

21.2 

30 

21.3 

29.4 

29.45 

29.5 

29.55 

29.6 

29.65 

29.7 

29.75 

29.8 

29.85 

20.7 20.7 

20.8 

20.8 

20.8 

20.9 

20.9 

21 21 

21.1 

Temperature (°C) 

33.5 33.55 33.6 33.65 33.7 33.75 33.8 33.85 

Salinity (psu) 

230
 
Depth (m) 

File: 1111002 11-Nov-2003 10:47:05 S7.6609 E134.6241 Site: 5As 

0
 

1
 

2
 

3
 

4
 

5
 

6
 

7
 29.65 29.7 29.75 29.8 29.85 29.9 29.95 30 30.05 30.1 30.15 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

33.35 33.4 33.45 33.5 

Salinity (psu) (solid) 

33.55 33.6 

20.5 20.55 20.6 20.65 20.7 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed) 

20.75 20.8 20.85 

29.82 

29.84 

29.86 

29.88 

29.9 

29.92 

29.94 

29.96 

29.98 

30 

30.02 

20.5 

20.5 

20.5 

20.6 

20.6 

20.6 

20.7 

20.7 

20.7 

20

Temperature (°C) 

33.3 33.35 33.4 33.45 33.5 33.55 33.6 

Salinity (psu) 

231
 
Depth (m) Temperature (°C) 

File: 1111004 11-Nov-2003 12:19:38 S7.6286 E134.6019 Site: 5bs 

0 

2 

4 

6 

8 

10 

12 

14 

16 

18 

20 

29 29.5 30 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

30.5 

33.25 33.3 33.35 33.4 33.45 33.5 

Salinity (psu) (solid) 

33.55 33.6 33.65 33.7 

20.4 20.5 20.6 20.7 20.8 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed) 

20.9 21 21.1 

30
 

29.9 

29.8 

29.7 

29.6 

29.5 

29.4 

20.4 

20.5 

20.5 

20.6 

20.7 

20.7 

20.8 

20.8 

2 

21 

33.2 33.3 33.4 33.5 33.6 33.7 

Salinity (psu) 

232
 
 

Depth (m) 

File: 1111005 11-Nov-2003 13:07:23 S7.6768 E134.615 Site: 5bf 

0 

5 

10 

15 

20 

25 

30
 29.3 29.4 29.5 29.6 29.7 29.8 29.9 30
 

Temperature (deg C) (dotted) 

33.1 33.2 33.3 33.4 33.5 

Salinity (psu) (solid) 

33.6 33.7 

20.3 20.4 20.5 20.6 20.7 20.8 20.9 

Density (sigma-t) (dashed) 

21 21.1 21.2 

29.5 

29.55 

29.6 

29.65 

29.7 

20.4 

20.4 

20.5 

20.6 

20.6 

20.7 

20.8 

20.9 

20.9 

2 

Temperature (°C) 

33 33.2 33.4 33.6 33.8 

Salinity (psu) 

233
 
Appendix L – Time Series Plots of Weather Data 

Two figures are presented for the portable weather station (WXSTA) data; the first shows 

the entire deployment and the second is zoomed to the Sep-Oct period. On each of these 

figures, two air temperatures (direct sunlight – blue; shaded – green) are presented 

together on the first plot, with axis label “Temp”. The data from two radiation 

measurements (Short-Wave Radiation – red; Photosynthetically Active Radiation (PAR) 

– blue) are shown on the second plot; the axis label, QSO, stands for Quantum Sensor 

Output. The two radiation measurements, although plotted together, differ in their units. 

The PAR has units of μmol.m-2

s

-1, whereas short wave radiation is in units of Wm-2. 

Wind speed and direction are shown on the third and fourth plots. The fifth plot 

represents the wind data as a quiver plot, as described in Appendix H for ocean currents. 

The NOAA data are presented in a single figure with plots of temperature, atmospheric 

pressure, wind speed, wind direction and the quiver plot of winds. 

Unit Conversions for PAR: 1 μEinstein = 6.02 x 1017 photons s-1 

m

-2 = 1 μmols m-2

 s

-1 

234
 
235
 
236
 
237
 
 

 

 

 

Appendix M – Data Format & File naming conventions 

Each instrument’s output data has its own, often manufacturer-specific, format when 

downloaded. From these, a standard file format is produced utilising MATLAB, a at is produced utilising MATLAB, a 

idely-usedidely-usedw analysis package.is package. The MATLAB The MATLAB data are binary; however, they can easily data are binary; however, they can easily 

e refb ormatted to alternative formats, such as ASCII, from within thwithin the MATLABe MATLAB 

environmenvironment. 

File naming convention File naming convention 

File namFile names are attributed according to the naming conventions associated with eachith each 

particular project. particular project. The file prThe file prefix is mefix is made up of a 2 or 3 de up of a 2 or 3 character instrument type andnt type and 

site numsite number, and a 2 character position code, ber, and a 2 character position code, with further characters appended to help with further characters appended to help

understand what type/s of data the file contains and what processing ns and what processing has been performed. 

The MATLAB files have a default filename extension ‘.m extension ‘.mat’. 

Example names are A10i1uvm.mat and T4i3t.mnd T4i3t.mat 

Table 7 Filename tags 7 Filename tags 

Instrument Type Instrument Type Site NumbeSite Number PositionPosition 

ProcessingProcessing 

A – current meters 1-14 i1-7 

ParameteParameter

uv, uvw, uvm uv, uvw, uvm 

p,r,o,l,hp,r,o,l,h 

B – tide gauges B – tide gauges 1-6 

C – salinitysalinity 1-5 

T – Temperature tranerature transect 1-8 

i1 

i1 

i1-7 

tl 

tc 

t,tl 

Instrument Type and Site Number codes can be found in the codes can be found in the Instrument Array Summary 

section in the main part of this document. The tables in that section cross reference to 

actual location names, and a later table lists their geographic position coordinates. 

Position codes indicate an instrument’s vertical position, as listed in The Temperature 

Transect and Mooring Summary section. The letter “i” precedes a number where 1 is the 

deepest instrument at the site and each higher instrument is given a consecutively higher 

number. If two loggers are located at the same depth, they are given the same number. 

Therefore the deepest instrument position on mooring A10 would be A10i1 or for 

transect T4 – T4i1. 

Parameter codes, the final tag/s, indicate what variables are being measured by the 

instrument. Multiple tags are used to classify loggers with more than one sensor. Thus 

the instrument at mooring A10, which measured current profiles, has the codename 

A10i1uvm. The “m” indicates a matrix of data instead of a vector from single point 

measurements. The temperature (t) and water level (l) are sometimes suppressed for the 

current meters. 

238
 
Processing codes are used to indicate level of data processing, specifically: 

p – prediction, r – residual, o – observed, l – low passed, h – high passed 

CTD casts are named using the following naming convention: ddmmnnn, with dd being 

the day, mm the month and nnn being the cast number starting from zero. Data were 

processed from raw *.hex files to *.cnv using the manufacturer software. They were then 

edited to in-water values. 

ASCII Data Format 

Most data were downloaded from the instruments in a binary or hexadecimal format. 

Manufacturer’s software was then used to convert to American Standard Code for 

Information Interchange (ASCII) prior to ingestion into MATLAB for visualisation and 

analysis. ASCII is potentially the most easily-read format for this data where MATLAB 

is not available. These files can simply be inspected in any common text file viewer and 

most are self-explanatory. 

ASCII files for individual instruments are listed in the instrument deployment tables in 

Appendices B, C, D, E and F. For instruments deployed in transects or on moorings, the 

file names are summarised in the Temperature Transect and Mooring Summary section. 

The original instrument output files were archived by instrument type in the “Raw Data” 

folder (Appendix N). A description of the ASCII-output format from the RDI ADCP 

instruments is provided here due to the complexity of the data file. 

RDI ADCP data were converted to ASCII using the manufacturer software package, 

WinADCP. Due to their size, these files were compressed (*.zip) for inclusion in the 

DVD archive. While the ASCII files are provided with this report, it is recommended 

that the manufacturer’s software be obtained by individual users as it provides a method 

to view and export the data. The software is available at the RDInstruments website 

(http://www.rdinstruments.com/); while the package is free-of-charge, registration is 

required for download. To register, select “Customer Support” from the option column at 

the left of the screen and then follow the “Request Registration” link in the text. Fill in 

the required fields; for the type of ADCP, enter “300-kHz Workhorse Sentinel”. After 

submitting the form, RDI will provide access information via email. Upon receipt of this 

information, the downloading process requires, as input, parameters from one instrument. 

The necessary parameters from the instrument deployed at location A5 are: 

ADCP Serial number – WH 412 

Frequency – 300 kHz 

Type – Real time fixed 

An example of the use of the WinADCP software is provided here. RDI ADCP binary 

data files for this study have a filename of the form “PAL02000.000”. To open a binary 

file from WinADCP go to the “File” menu and select “Open”. In the pop-up window 

select the data file to be opened and click “Open”. Binary data files output by 

BroadBand and WorkHorse ADCP instruments may be accessed by this process. Figure 

14 is a screen-capture of the WinADCP workspace displaying data from the file 

PAL02000.000. A summary of the setup of the instrument and logging parameters is 

239
 
shown in the upper-left sub-window, labelled “WinADCP Information”; the full dataset 

is displayed in the upper-righ b dow, labelled “Wh ol t su -win e Set”; and a zoomed image 

of data from the first 64-hours of the deployment is shown in the bottom sub-window, 

labelled “Sub Set”. 

Figure 1 4 Scre en-capture of the W inADCP data viewer 

To export data from WinADCP click on the “Export” menu; this opens the Export 

Options control box (Figure 15). In the “Series/Ancillary” tab, select the output file type 

(text or MATLAB); the require d bins; the time -series data desired; the ancillary data 

desired; and which ens b s (i.e., tim s em le estep o f data) are required for downloading. 

Selecting the items as sh own Figure 15 will re plicate the ASCII data supplied on the 

accompanying DVD. The form at for the text output is shown in Table 8. General header 

info rmation is listed, followed by the matrix of data. The number of columns in the 

mat rix depends on the export options chosen; each column header containing short-forms 

of the variable name an d units. Each row in the matrix represents one ensemble average; 

i.e., one time period of meas urem ent. For the deployment shown, a total of 12488 

240
 
ensemble averages were made. The first column lists the ensemble number and the 

subsequent eight columns show the ancillary data (as selected from Figure 15). The 

remaining columns contain time series data for each selected variable, grouped by the 

number of bins in the vertical profile (thirty-five in this case). The first thirty-five of 

these columns contain data of the first variable; the second set of thirty-five columns 

contains data of the second variable; etc. For compactness, only the values from the first 

bin (nearest the instrument) are presented here. The variables shown in Table 8 reflect 

those selected in the export options window; i.e., the average of the 4-beam echo 

amplitudes (EAA); the correlations for each bin (C1); the east component of velocity; the 

north component of velocity; the vertical component of velocity; the error in the 

magnitude of velocity; the velocity magnitude; and the velocity direction. 

Figure 15 Screen-capture of the WinADCP export options 

241
 
Table 8 ASCII output from Pal02000.txt, illustrating format. Sample ADCP .ASCII txt file "Series Data" "C:\data\palauadcp\Pal02000.000" "Broadband 614.4 kHz" "Pings/Ens =" 150 "Time/Ping = 00:06.00" "First Ensemble Date = 03/08/31" "First Ensemble Time = 12:07:30.00" "Ensemble Interval (s) = " 897.33 "1st Bin Range (m) = " 2.01 "Bin Size (m) =" 1.00 "Pit" "Rol" "Hea" "Tem" "Dep" "Ori" "BIT" "Bat" "EAA"... "C1"... "Eas"... "Nor"... "Ver"... "Err"... "Mag"... "Dir"... "deg" "deg" "deg" "deg" "m" "" "" "cnt" "cnt"... "cnt"... "mm/s"... "mm/s"... "mm/s"... "mm/s"... "mm/s"... "deg"... 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 3.76 -1.88 226.49 27.49 0.00 1 0 160 45 17 2 4.37 -3.94 303.30 27.46 0.00 1 0 160 46 21 3 4.36 -3.88 303.35 27.42 0.00 1 0 160 46 20 

...5014 -4.66 0.54 188.07 29.42 30.20 1 0 140 130 124 228 -380 -20 16 443 149.0 5015 -4.66 0.54 188.05 29.49 30.20 1 0 140 133 124 222 -310 -1 9 381 144. 5016 -4.66 0.54 188.06 29.50 30.20 1 0 140 136 124 265 -351 -5 -5 440 142.9 ...12488 23.20 -25.79 214.26 23.97 0.20 1 0 133 192 75 -11 51 -35 -60 52 347.8 

242
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

MATLAB Data Format 

MATLAB is a commonly-used scientific programming language with high-level 

visualisation capabilities. For this reason, the data collected in this study have been 

archived using the MATLAB format. Metadata are contained within the MATLAB data 

files. After loading a data file, the program “hdrmat.m” displays a summary of the 

information. An example for the current profiler A5 is shown in Table 9. 

Table 9 Example output for header from the current profiler, A5 

>> load a5i1uvmt 

>> hdrmat 

Palau A5 RDI ADCP 412
 

Instrument Depth 215 m 

start finish si tz 

17-Sep-2003 11:30:00 13-Jan-2004 14:45:00 15 -9 

Time series statistics 

Variable Min Max Mean Units 

Dirn 

Speed 

Temp

Depth 

U 

V 

0.00000 

0.00000 

9.30000 

210.00000 

-98.20000 

-138.80000 

27000 

215.20000 

359.61467 

293.48284 

291.70000 

193.30000 

13. 10.82724 

210.58688 

140.72883 

9.29600 

3.24222 

1.63225 

deg C

m 

degrees

cm/s

cm/s

cm/s 

>> whos 

Name Size Bytes Class 

speed

temp 

units 

v 

w 

z 

attributes 

depth

dirn 

time 

u 

42 

23x11342 

1x11342 

42 

1x1 

23x11342 

23x11342 

23x1 

1x1 

3421x11 

23x113

1x113

23x11342 

2028 struct array

90736 double array

2086928 double array

2086928 double array

90736 double array

90736 double array 

1714 struct array

2086928 double array

2086928 double array

184 double array 

2086928 double array 

Variables 

The MATLAB file associated with each instrument contains the variable names listed in 

the adjacent table, as appropriate to the sensors. Each data point is placed into a vector 

based on its data type and sample number. In addition, the time when each data point is 

sampled is written to the time vector element with the corresponding sample number. 

Time, temperature (temp), instrument depth (depth), salinity (sal), and density (sigma_t) 

are always vectors. 

243
 
Currents, however, can be measured at either a particular location (point time 

current meter) or at several loc ations throughout the water column temp (current profiler). If the logger measures at only one location, as is the depth case with an S4 current meter, the velocity data are stored in four, one- speed dimensional vectors: eastward velocity (u), northward velocity (v), dirn 

magnitude (speed), and direction (dirn). If several currents are measured sal 

at different depths, the data are stored in several matrices (or arrays). sigma_t The currents are placed into bins (in accordance with the instrument z 

setup) based on their depth. The data from each bin occupy a row of the u 

matrix. Additionally, the column vector, z, identifies the height of the v 

bins. Thus the depth of the fourth bin from the bottom is tabulated as w 

the fourth element of column vector, z. The northward currents au 

measured at this depth are recorded in the fourth row of the matrix, v. av 

Current profiler instrument files have a vertical velocity (w) matrix in aw 

addition to the eastward velocity (u), northward velocity (v), magnitude attributes 

(speed), and direction (dirn) matrices. For Nortek Aquadopp Current units 

Profilers, the count of measured particles at each bin for each sampling 

interval is also recorded. These values are arranged in the matrices au, av, and aw and 

correspond to the matrices u, v, and w respectively. 

The final two parameters are attributes and units. Unlike the other variables which are all 

vector based, these are structure arrays. They contain pertinent information regarding the 

instrument and the units for each of the variables. Thus, every data file will contain both 

the attributes and units variables. Table 10 lists the attributes and units fields and values 

for the Uchelbeluu deepwater current profiler (A5). 

Attributes 

Information, such as the instrument make and serial number, are stored as fields in the 

attributes structure array. All instrument files have the same core of attributes listed in 

Table 10. A standard core of attributes allows MATLAB scripts to easily retrieve 

information among different instruments. Profiler data contain additional attribute fields 

which describe how the bins are set up. 

Units 

Like attributes, units are also structure arrays. The units field names are the same as 

variable and attribute names, such as temp and instrument_depth. However, the values 

are all strings describing the units of the named parameter. The number of fields in a 

units structure array vary from instrument to instrument and depend on which variables 

are measured. 

244
 
Table 10 Example listing of attributes and units from the current profiler, A5 

attributes = 

tz: 9 

si: 900 

ensemble_period: 900

project: 'Palau'

lat: 7.2653 

lon: 134.5566 

site: 'A5' 

serial: '412' 

make: 'RDI ADCP' 

instrument_depth: 215

cell_size: 5 

blanking_distance: 1.7600

bin_depth: [1x23 double]

top_bin: 23 

units = 

time: 'serial date' 

si: 'seconds' 

u: 'cm/s'

v: 'cm/s'

w: 'cm/s'

temp: 'deg C'

depth: 'm'

instrument_depth: 'm'

cell_size: 'm' 

blanking_distance: 'm'

speed: 'cm/s'

dirn: 'degrees'

z: 'm' 

Other computing languages 

MATLAB binary files can be read directly into other programming languages (Fortran, 

C). Programs to access data are provided in each of these languages at the Mathworks 

web site: 

Hhttp://www.mathworks.com/access/helpdesk/help/techdoc/matlab_external/matlab_external.htmlH. 

245
 
Appendix N – Data Archive 

Data are stored on a companion DVD-ROM and is structured as shown in Figure 16. 

This document, “Palau Oceanographic Array Data Report.doc”, is contained in the 

Documents subdirectory. 

The Raw Data have been organised by instrument type; whereas, the processed data are 

organised by variable type – Currents, CTD, Salinity, Sealevels, Temperatures and 

Weather. Temperature mooring and transect data were consolidated and placed in the 

Tempprofiles subdirectory. The summary data plots can also be found under each of 

variable type as shown below for currents. 

Dropsheets 

Instrument Specs 

Site mud maps 

Documents 

ADCP 

Brancker 

CTD 

Nobska 

Nortek 

S4 

SBE16 

SBE39 

setups 

Weather 

Raw Data 

Plots 

Currents 

CTD 

Salinity 

Sealevels 

Temperatures 

Tempprofiles 

Weather 

Processed Data 

DVD ROM 

Figure 16 Archival DVD-ROM directory structure 

246
 
Appendix 2 

Seasonal Variations of the Ocean Surface Circulation in the Vicinity of Palau 

Scott F. Heron, E. Joseph Metzger, and William J. Skirving 

Abstract 

The surface circulation in the western equatorial Pacific Ocean is investigated with the aim of describing 

intra-annual variations near Palau (134°30′ E, 7°30′ N). In situ data and model output from the Ocean 

Surface Currents Analysis—Real-time, TRIangle Trans-Ocean buoy Network, Naval Research
 

Laboratory Layered Ocean Model and the Joint Archive for Shipboard ADCP are examined and 

compared. Known major currents and eddies of the western equatorial Pacific are observed and discussed, 

and previously undocumented features are identified and named (Palau Eddy, Caroline Eddy, 

Micronesian Eddy). The circulation at Palau follows a seasonal variation aligned with that of the Asian 

monsoon (December–April; July–October) and is driven by the major circulation features. From
 

December to April, currents around Palau are generally directed northward with speeds of approximately
 

20 cm/s, influenced by the North Equatorial Counter-Current and the Mindanao Eddy. The current 

direction turns slightly clockwise through this boreal winter period, due to the northern migration of the 

Mindanao Eddy. During April–May, the current west of Palau is reduced to 15 cm/s as the Mindanao 

Eddy weakens. East of Palau, a cyclonic eddy (Palau Eddy) forms producing southward flow of around 

25 cm/s. The flow during the period July to September is disordered with no influence from major 

circulation features. The current is generally northward west of Palau and southward to the east, each with
 

speeds on the order of 5 cm/s. During October, as the Palau Eddy reforms, the southward current to the 

east of Palau increases to 15 cm/s. During November, the circulation transitions to the north-directed 

winter regime. 

Citation: 

Heron, S.F., E.J. Metzger and W.J. Skirving. (2006). Observations of the ocean surface circulation in the 

vicinity of Palau. Journal of Oceanography, 62, 413-426.
 

The text of this article is reprinted in this document with permission from The Journal of Oceanography, 

The Oceanographic Society of Japan, Tokyo, Japan. Please use the above citation for any information in 

this article. 

283 
Journal of Oceanography, Vol. 62, pp. 413 to 426, 2006 

Seasonal Variations of the Ocean Surface Circulation in
 

the Vicinity of Palau
 

1 SCOTT F. HERON1

*, E. JOSEPH METZGER2 and WILLIAM J. SKIRVING

1

Coral Reef Watch, NOAA/NESDIS/ORA, E/RA31, SSMC1,


 1335 East-West Highway, Silver Spring, MD 20910, U.S.A.
 

2

Naval Research Laboratory, Stennis Space Center, MS 39529-5004, U.S.A.
 

(Received 2 August 2005; in revised form 17 January 2006; accepted 18 January 2006) 

The surface circulation in the western equatorial Pacific Ocean is investigated with Keywords: 

the aim of describing intra-annual variations near Palau (134°30′ E, 7°30′ N). In situ ⋅Ocean surface 

data and model output from the Ocean Surface Currents Analysis—Real-time, circulation,

⋅seasonal variation, TRIangle Trans-Ocean buoy Network, Naval Research Laboratory Layered Ocean 

Model and the Joint Archive for Shipboard ADCP are examined and compared. Known ⋅western equatorial

Pacific, major currents and eddies of the western equatorial Pacific are observed and dis­ ⋅Palau. cussed, and previously undocumented features are identified and named (Palau Eddy,
 

Caroline Eddy, Micronesian Eddy). The circulation at Palau follows a seasonal variation aligned with that of the Asian monsoon (December–April; July–October) and is
 

driven by the major circulation features. From December to April, currents around
 

Palau are generally directed northward with speeds of approximately 20 cm/s, influenced by the North Equatorial Counter-Current and the Mindanao Eddy. The current direction turns slightly clockwise through this boreal winter period, due to the
 

northern migration of the Mindanao Eddy. During April–May, the current west of
 

Palau is reduced to 15 cm/s as the Mindanao Eddy weakens. East of Palau, a cyclonic
 

eddy (Palau Eddy) forms producing southward flow of around 25 cm/s. The flow during the period July to September is disordered with no influence from major circulation features. The current is generally northward west of Palau and southward to the
 

east, each with speeds on the order of 5 cm/s. During October, as the Palau Eddy
 

reforms, the southward current to the east of Palau increases to 15 cm/s. During November, the circulation transitions to the north-directed winter regime.
 

1. Introduction Halmahera Eddy (HE). Specific studies have examined 

The western equatorial Pacific Ocean is a key re- the high- and low-frequency variability of these features 

gion of the world for climate studies that is difficult to (e.g., Lukas, 1988; Arief and Murray, 1996; Qiu and 

describe due to its highly variable nature. Descriptions Lukas, 1996; Kashino et al., 2001; Yaremchuk and Qu, 

of the general circulation in the western equatorial Pa- 2004). Circulation studies in basins adjacent to the westcific Ocean that have focused on the major current sys- ern Pacific have also been undertaken, e.g., the South 

tems of the North Equatorial Current (NEC), the China Sea (Metzger, 2003), and the Celebes and Maluku 

Mindanao Current (MC), the Kuroshio, the North Equa- Seas (Kashino et al., 2001). Lukas et al. (1991) described 

torial Counter-Current (NECC) and the Indonesian observations of current measurements from the Western 

Through-Flow (ITF) include the work of Toole et al. Equatorial Pacific Ocean Circulation Study (WEPOCS) 

(1988), Lukas (1988), Lukas et al. (1991), Qu et al. (1998) III conducted in the middle of 1988. Surface drifter and 

and Qu and Lukas (2003). Two major mesoscale eddies acoustic Doppler current profiler (ADCP) data were comreported in this region are the Mindanao Eddy (ME) and bined to produce a map of ocean currents that clearly 

showed the MC, ME, HE, NECC and portions of the ITF. 

Metzger et al. (1992) used these data as validation in a 

global ocean model. The model generated the same fea­ * Corresponding author. E-mail: Scott.Heron@noaa.gov tures from the WEPOCS III data with good effect and 

Copyright©The Oceanographic Society of Japan/TERRAPUB/Springer supplied further circulation detail in data-barren regions. 

413 
(a) 

(b) 

Fig. 1. (a) Schematic of the major ocean circulation features within the study area. Inset shows the geography of the western 

equatorial Pacific Ocean, with the study area indicated by the dashed box. (b) Smith and Sandwell (1997) bathymetry of study 

area. Triangles indicate the locations of TRITON buoys from which data are used. 

However, to our knowledge, no existing investigations 

have focused on the circulation patterns in the immediate 

vicinity around Palau. The western equatorial Pacific is 

of significant interest in global ocean dynamics and the 

transport of waters in this region is important in understanding mass, heat and salt exchange. Physical connectivity of the remote Micronesian islands is an important 

factor for biological development; coral distribution and 

fish migration and reproduction are examples of biological processes that depend on physical ocean parameters. 

The major islands of Palau are grouped together in 

the western Pacific Ocean 850 km east of the Philippine 

island of Mindanao, near 7°30′ N, 134°30′ E. Figure 1(a) 

shows the location of Palau and schematically illustrates 

the reported oceanographic features previously mentioned. These islands are at the peak of a topographic ridge 

that stretches to the SSW where the smaller island groups 

of Palau are found. This ridge separates the waters surrounding Palau into the Philippine Sea to the west of 

Palau, and the West Caroline Basin. Figure 1(b) shows 

the bathymetry of the western equatorial Pacific from the 

two-minute resolution data of Smith and Sandwell (1997). 

A rapid drop-off from the Palau Ridge to depths greater 

than 4000 m can be seen immediately to the east and west. 

This work investigates seasonal characteristics of the 

ocean surface circulation in the region surrounding Palau. 

Existing satellite-derived and in situ data are collated and 

examined to identify general circulation features. Due to 

the spatially and temporally sparse nature of oceanographic data, particularly in the western equatorial Pa414 S. F. Heron et al. 
cific, output from a numerical model is also studied. To 

describe the ocean circulation near Palau, it is pertinent 

to first examine the larger scale features that may influence the Palauan waters. Thus, this study includes the 

ocean region bounded by 125–150°E and 2°S–15°N, as 

illustrated in Fig. 1(a). 

The sources from which data were acquired to study 

the surface circulation are described in Section 2. The 

observations from each data source are summarized in 

Section 3 and then compared in Section 4 to determine 

consistency in the flow description. Section 5 summarizes the seasonal variations observed in surface waters 

around Palau. 

2. Data Sources 

2.1 Ocean Surface Currents Analyses—Real-time (OSCAR) 

The Ocean Surface Currents Analyses—Real-time 

(OSCAR) derives sea surface currents from satellite observations for the global ocean, as described in Bonjean 

and Lagerloef (2002). Altimeter-derived sea surface 

height (SSH) and winds from scatterometer data are the 

primary input sources to OSCAR, with sea surface temperature (SST) data used as a secondary source. The SSH 

is gridded to 1° resolution, smoothed and then used to 

calculate geostrophic motion. This is linearly combined 

with the wind-driven (Stommel/Ekman) component. The 

accuracy of the OSCAR system is still under investigation. Surface current data were downloaded from the 

OSCAR website, http://www.oscar.noaa.gov. The time 

resolution is defined by the repeat period of the satellites, the minimum of which is 10-days for Jason-1. The 

database spanned eleven complete years, 1993–2003. 

2.2 TRIangle Trans-Ocean buoy Network (TRITON) 

The TRIangle Trans-Ocean buoy Network (TRITON) 

is a series of eighteen buoys deployed in the equatorial 

regions of the Pacific and Indian Oceans (http:// 

www.jamstec.go.jp/jamstec/TRITON/). Mounted instruments provide information on the upper-ocean and surface meteorology. Surface wind data recorded by two 

TRITON buoys, located in the vicinity of Palau, were 

accessed from the TRITON website. The TRITON buoys 

located at 8°N, 137°E and 5°N, 137°E (Fig. 1(b)) provide the only in situ, extended observational data record 

near to Palau. However, the datasets from these buoys 

only span the periods of September 2001 to June 2003 

and September 2001 to November 2003, respectively. The 

wind speed and direction were measured at a height of 4 

m from the ocean surface and were sampled once every 5 

seconds for a period of two minutes. The two-minute averages were recorded every ten minutes. Six such records 

were then averaged and published on the website as hourly 

means. To examine seasonal variability in the wind field, 

the hourly mean data were smoothed to eliminate highfrequency components. 

2.3 NRL Layered Ocean Model (NLOM) 

Output from the Naval Research Laboratory (NRL) 

Layered Ocean Model (NLOM) is also examined for the 

study region. NLOM is part of a real-time, eddy-resolving, nearly global ocean nowcast/forecast system (http:// 

www7320.nrlssc.navy.mil/global_nlom) running daily at 

the Naval Oceanographic Office. It has a horizontal resolution of 1/16° and seven layers in the vertical, including 

a Kraus-Turner type bulk mixed layer. The model is forced 

with winds and heat fluxes from the Fleet Numerical 

Meteorology and Oceanography Center (FNMOC) Navy 

Operational Global Atmospheric Prediction System. It 

assimilates SST from satellite infrared data and SSH from 

satellite altimeter (TOPEX/POSEIDON, ERS-2 and 

Geosat Follow-On) data. Velocity fields are updated using a geostrophic correction calculated from pressure 

changes, but not within 5° of the equator. Between 5–8°, 

the correction is gradually increased to full strength using a hyperbolic tangent function. The entire system has 

been described in detail by Smedstad et al. (2003). The 

output used here is not from the operational model itself, 

but from a simulation system nearly identical to it. A 

hindcast reanalysis experiment was performed over the 

period 1993–2000 making use of all available satellite 

altimeter data. 

2.4 Joint Archive for Shipboard ADCP Data (JASADCP) 

ADCP data were downloaded from the Joint Archive 

for Shipboard ADCP website (http:// 

ilikai.soest.hawaii.edu/sadcp) and collated for use as validation against the NLOM output. Thirty-one cruises 

passed through the region of interest from 1985–2000; 

sixteen of these during the 8-year span of NLOM data 

(1993–2000). For each cruise, the currents recorded at 

the shallowest depth were extracted from the archive to 

be representative of the surface layer currents. These 

depths ranged from 20–50 m. Currents sampled from 

NLOM represent an upper layer average with a typical 

thickness of ~70 m in this region. They do not contain an 

Ekman component and thus should be comparable to the 

ADCP-derived currents. Datasets were averaged into onehalf- or one-quarter-degree bins for presentation, depending on the data density. 

3. Results 

3.1 OSCAR 

OSCAR surface current plots are compiled for the 

region of interest. Monthly means based on eleven years 

of data are shown in Fig. 2. The strong westward flow of 

the NEC north of 10°N is consistent with the generally 

Seasonal Variations of the Ocean Surface Circulation in the Vicinity of Palau 415 
0.5 m/s
 

15°N
 

10°N
 

5°N
 

Eq
 a) Jan b) Feb 

15°N 

10°N 

5°N 

Eq c) Mar d) Apr 

15°N 

10°N 

5°N 

Eq e) May f) Jun 

130°E 135°E 140°E 145°E 130°E 135°E 140°E 145°E 

0.5 m/s
 

15°N
 

10°N
 

5°N
 

Eq
 g) Jul h) Aug 

15°N 

10°N 

5°N 

Eq i) Sep j) Oct 

15°N 

10°N 

5°N 

Eq k) Nov l) Dec 

130°E 135°E 140°E 145°E 130°E 135°E 140°E 145°E 

Fig. 2. Monthly mean surface currents from OSCAR plotted on the NLOM topography. Data are averaged over the period 1993– 

2003. (a) January, (b) February, etc. Approximate location of the MiE is identified in the September plot by the dagger (†) 

symbol. 

416 S. F. Heron et al. 
10 180 

8 

6 

000

(a) 

Jul Jan Jul Jan Jul Jan 

(b) 

Jul Jan Jul Jan Jul Jan 

Wind speed, m/s Wind speed, m/s 

Direction, degrees Direction, degrees

4 

2 

0 −180

2002 2003 2004 2002 2003 2004 

10 180 

(c) 

Jul Jan Jul Jan Jul Jan 

(d) 

Jul Jan Jul Jan Jul Jan 

8 

6 

4 

2 

000

0 −180


2002 2003 2004 2002 2003 2004
 

Fig. 3, TRITON buoy time series for locations: 137°E, 8°N—(a) wind speed and (b) direction. 137°E, 5°N—(c) wind speed and 

(d) direction. 

accepted position (Gorshkov, 1976; Bramwell, 1977) with 

a maximum speed of 30–35 cm/s from November to 

March, declining to around 20–25 cm/s for July to October. During the boreal winter, there is a significant northward component to the surface current, up to 10–15 

cm/s. This meridional component is reduced through 

spring and summer, turning southwards in late summer, 

and returning northwards and strengthening in winter. The 

timing of each of these variations is consistent with the 

descriptions by Yaremchuk and Qu (2004) and also that 

of the Asian monsoonal winds; strongest and from the 

northeast in winter (December–March), from the southeast during summer (June–September) (Tomczak and 

Godfrey, 2002). 

The eastward flow of the NECC “Tail” (defined here 

as the section of the NECC east of 135°E) varies in position following the seasonal trend of the Asian Monsoon 

season (approximate positions for January and July are 

gray in Figs. 2(a) and (g)). From January–May, the NECC 

Tail is located around 5°N, consistent with literature descriptions (Tomczak and Godfrey, 2002), with maximum 

speeds of the order of 45 cm/s. The NECC Tail moves 

southward during the boreal summer to 2–5°N and is 

strongest (70 cm/s) during July–October when it is located at its southernmost latitudes, consistent with the 

findings of Toole et al. (1988). 

During the period from December to February the 

cyclonic Mindanao Eddy may have developed near the 

Philippine coast; however, discussion of both the ME and 

the Mindanao Current is limited by the spatial scope of 

OSCAR data. From March–June the circulation of the ME 

is clearly seen west of Palau. The center of the eddy moves 

northward from 7°N in December to 8°N in July and increases its zonal dimension during this time. The ME 

appears to weaken from July to November, as suggested 

from model data by Masumoto and Yamagata (1991); as 

a result the zonal extent is reduced. 

The spatial scope of the OSCAR system does not 

cover the region south of 2°N and west of 134°E, i.e., in 

the vicinity of Halmahera Island, and so the discussion 

of the Halmahera Eddy presented here is incomplete. 

However, the seasonal variation of HE can be deduced 

from the available data. During the period March–May, 

the eddy appears to be weakly formed. As the NECC Tail 

moves southwards in June, the HE becomes more clearly 

defined and continues to strengthen as it moves northwards, through to October. From November–February, the 

HE weakens and returns southwards. This annual variation is phased with the seasonality of the NECC Tail and 

the ME, and with that of the Asian Monsoon. The correlation in the timing of these events supports the suggestion by Toole et al. (1988) that the major surface currents 

of the western equatorial Pacific are wind-dominated. No 

discussion of the New Guinea Coastal Current (NGCC) 

can be undertaken due to the limited spatial scope of the 

OSCAR data near the equator. 

Of note is the trace of a cyclonic eddy centered to 

the southeast of Palau at 136°E, 6°N during the July–September period. This previously undescribed formation, 

here named the Micronesian Eddy (MiE), is bounded on 

the south by the NECC, and the approximate location is 

shown by the dagger symbol in Fig. 2(i). 

Seasonal Variations of the Ocean Surface Circulation in the Vicinity of Palau 417 
0.5 m/s 

15°N 

10°N 

5°N 

Eq 

130°E 135°E 140°E 145°E 150°E 

Fig. 4. NLOM annual upper layer currents averaged over the period 1993–2000. The ME is centred at 129°E, 8°N, the HE at 

130°E, 4°N and the PE at 137°E, 9°N. 

3.2 TRITON 

Toole et al. (1988), Masumoto and Yamagata (1991) 

and Tomczak and Godfrey (2002) all assert that the major surface currents in the western equatorial Pacific are 

dominated by winds. Thus, wind data from the TRITON 

buoys are examined for periodic fluctuations to compare 

with the currents. Figure 3 shows wind speed and direction time-series from the buoys located at 8°N, 137°E and 

5°N, 137°E. The wind direction data of the two buoys are 

synchronized in their seasonal variation, directed from 

the northeast from December to April, and from the southwest during July–October. This seasonal variation is consistent with that of the Asian monsoon (Tomczak and 

Godfrey, 2002). Between these dominant wind events (i.e., 

during May and June, and again in November), there are 

some short-term fluctuations in the wind direction. These 

times of variable wind direction generally coincide with 

low wind speeds. If the surface currents are wind-dominated then this observed seasonal cycle in the wind field 

should be reflected in the seasonality of ocean surface 

features. 

While the OSCAR and TRITON data provide insight 

into the circulation in the western equatorial Pacific, more 

detailed information requires higher spatial (and temporal) resolutions. Numerical modelling of the ocean circulation provides a method that satisfies these requirements. 

3.3 NLOM 

The NLOM output is initially verified by observing 

the accepted western equatorial Pacific features; i.e., the 

NEC, ME, HE and NECC. These can be seen in the NLOM 

annual upper layer current climatology shown in Fig. 4. 

The westward-directed NEC is clearly seen north of 10°N 

turning southward to form the Mindanao Current around 

127°E (at the Philippine coast). Part of the MC turns eastward to become the NECC, which is located at approximately 6°N. The ME, bounded by these three currents, 

has its dome close to the Philippine coast and extends 

eastwards towards Palau. The NECC is also composed of 

NGCC water from the southeast that has rotated around 

the HE, centered near 130°E, 4°N. The locations and sizes 

of the ME and HE, and the meandering nature of the 

NECC compare well with observations during WEPOCS 

III by Lukas et al. (1991) and the OSCAR data. 

Figure 5 illustrates the monthly climatology from 

NLOM and the seasonal variations in the circulation features are observed. The description of the NEC from 

NLOM is generally consistent with the description from 

OSCAR. The NEC is located generally north of 10°N with 

surface current maximum speed greatest in the boreal 

winter (43 cm/s) and least during summer and early autumn (28 cm/s). While the maximum speeds are slightly 

greater than suggested by OSCAR, due perhaps to the 

difference in resolution, the seasonal variation is aligned. 

The meridional component of the NEC is greatest and 

northward from December to March, and turns southward 

during July to September. 

The NECC Tail (east of 135°E) also compares 

favorably with the descriptions from the OSCAR data, 

both in magnitude and path variation; the approximate 

positions of the NECC Tail for January and July are gray 

in Figs. 5(a) and (g). The maximum surface currents for 

the summer and winter periods and the annual variation 

in the flow-rate are generally consistent with those given 

by OSCAR. However, the northernmost variation of the 

NECC Tail reaches higher latitudes (6–7°N) than those 

418 S. F. Heron et al. 
described by OSCAR during the late winter and spring, 

and slightly lower latitudes (1–2°N) during late-summer/ 

autumn. In the October–November monthly climatologies, 

while it appears that the NECC bifurcates at 135°E, this 

is not the case. Examination of each year’s current maps 

shows that the transition between summer and winter 

positions can occur during October or November: the 

apparent bifurcation is an artifact of averaging. 

In January, the ME extends southwards towards 

Halmahera and circulates close to the Mindanao coast, 

consistent with a topographic survey presented in Lukas 

(1988). By April, the ME has strengthened and is located 

adjacent to Mindanao; the meridional extent has decreased 

while the eddy now extends zonally to Palau. The ME 

begins to weaken in June and is weakest during August– 

September, again consistent with the annual variation 

suggested by the OSCAR data. 

The seasonal variations in the ME seen in both 

NLOM and OSCAR are in contrast to the description of 

Wyrtki (1961), i.e., the ME is close to Mindanao in May 

and weakest and centered near Palau in January. This difference may be explained by the sparse data, both spatially and temporally, available to Wyrtki (1961); however, it is also possible, though seemingly unlikely, that 

there has been a shift in the circulation regime. The consistency between OSCAR and NLOM descriptions provide confidence in the present study. 

Associated with the ME, and due to the increased 

spatial coverage of the model at the Philippine coast, variability of the Mindanao Current can be examined. The 

MC is the south-directed current produced by the bifurcation of the NEC, near the Philippine coast at 14.3 ± 

0.7°N (Yaremchuk and Qu, 2004). While the NEC bifurcation may be inferred from Fig. 5, the study region does 

not cover these coastal waters; as such, discussion of neither the bifurcation latitude nor the meridional variation 

of the MC is undertaken. The zonal position of the MC is 

observed to vary little through the year, remaining within 

approximately 1° of longitude from the Mindanao coast. 

The speed varies from a maximum value of 1.4 m/s during the winter to 1.2 m/s during the April to November 

period. The MC width and surface speed are consistent 

with those measured by Cannon (1970) as 70–80 km and 

1.1–1.3 m/s, respectively. The relatively small variation 

in speed through the year is consistent with the findings 

of Lukas (1988) that the current anomaly was in the range 

±10 cm/s and with the annual variation in timing and 

magnitude of the MC transport described by Yaremchuk 

and Qu (2004). The consistency of the MC with previous 

studies lends further support to the reliability of the 

NLOM results. 

The New Guinea Coastal Current between 130°E and 

140°E is directed westwards for most of the annual cycle, gaining strength through May to July as a result of 

the increase in the South Equatorial Current (SEC) 

(Tomczak and Godfrey, 2002). The NGCC reaches its 

maximum speed in the period August to October and then 

diminishes through November. During December and 

January the NGCC reverses its direction, following the 

seasonal cycle of the Asian monsoon. 

The Halmahera Eddy is greatly influenced by the 

influx of the NGCC, intensifying and increasing in size 

as it moves northwards during the May to September period. The HE flow dominates the waters southwest of 

Palau during this period. The HE begins to diminish 

through October and November—the same period through 

which the ME begins to strengthen. The HE then weakens rapidly in December with the reversal of the NGCC. 

This development cycle of the HE is also linked with the 

zonal movement of the NECC Tail, described previously. 

In addition to these well-documented features, the 

NLOM output suggests other circulation features that influence the waters of the western equatorial Pacific. A 

cyclonic eddy, named the Palauan Eddy (PE), develops 

in April to the northeast of Palau, near 137°E, 8°N (the 

approximate location is shown in Fig. 5(d) by the cross 

symbol). The PE is bounded to the north and south by the 

NEC and NECC, respectively. The PE appears to be 

strongly correlated with the position of the NECC Tail 

and the abatement of the ME. The PE is strengthened 

during May with the northernmost attitude of the NECC 

Tail, and then weakens through June and July with the 

NECC Tail’s southward migration. There is evidence of 

a weak regeneration of the eddy, with the return to the 

NECC’s northern meander, from October to December. 

However, the PE is not visible during the January to March 

quarter. 

An anticyclonic eddy forms in April centered near 

139°E, 5°N and is designated here the Caroline Eddy 

(CE). The approximate location of the CE is shown in 

Fig. 5(d) by the plus symbol. This eddy is bounded at the 

north by the NECC and moves west and south in May 

and June as the NECC Tail migrates southwards; the CE 

disappears by July. Examination of each year’s plots for 

March–June showed this feature appearing every year and 

propagating westward. However, as the eddy exists south 

of the NECC, it has no direct influence on currents near 

Palau and was therefore not investigated further. 

A third eddy forms weakly in August and September 

at a meander of the NECC Tail, near 140°E, 3°N. It may 

be synonymous with the Micronesian Eddy (MiE) described in the OSCAR data. This cyclonic eddy strengthens in October, maintaining its position through the migration of the NECC Tail, and is present until January. 

Examination of each year’s output for August–January 

showed the appearance of this feature in most, but not 

all, years. When formed, the eddy characteristically propagated westward. It is also important to note that the eddy 

Seasonal Variations of the Ocean Surface Circulation in the Vicinity of Palau 419 
+ 

0.5 m/s 

15°N
 

10°N
 

5°N
 

Eq
 a) Jan b) Feb 

15°N 

10°N 

5°N + 

Eq c) Mar d) Apr
 

15°N
 

10°N
 

5°N
 

Eq
 e) May f) Jun 

130°E 135°E 140°E 145°E 130°E 135°E 140°E 145°E 

Fig. 5. Monthly mean upper layer currents from NLOM averaged over the period 1993–2000. (a) January, (b) February, etc. 

Approximate locations of the PE and CE are identified in the April plot by the cross (×) and plus (+) symbols, respectively. 

described here may not be the same as the MiE identified 

in the OSCAR data. While it is located in a similar position, the spatial coverage and resolution of the OSCAR 

data do not permit a clear comparison. Additional studies 

are necessary to examine the nature and relationship of 

these features. As this feature is not in the vicinity of 

Palau, it was not investigated further. 

A family of temporary eddies are also seen to form 

along the coast of New Guinea from July to November, 

between the NECC Tail and the NGCC. The formation of 

these eddies coincides with the greatest strength of HE, 

also bounded by the NECC and NGCC. 

Each of the new eddies described here could be 

formed as a barotropic instability of the zonally-directed 

flows (NEC, NECC). Characteristically such instabilities 

propagate westwards (Rossby waves), as observed for the 

CE and MiE. The PE is topographically trapped by the 

Palau ridge (Fig. 1(b)), maintaining its position and increasing in extent and influence over the Palau waters. 

While the NLOM model succeeds qualitatively in 

describing the surface circulation, comparison with ADCP 

data provides further verification. 

3.4 JASADCP 

Sixteen ADCP datasets with cruise tracks across the 

domain of interest were recorded during the 8-year span 

of NLOM output (1993–2000). Figure 6 shows the currents of all sixteen cruises averaged to a 0.5° × 0.5° grid. 

The MC, ME, HE and NECC are identifiable in the sparse 

data and their locations compare well with the NLOM 

annual climatology (Fig. 4). Comparison of individual 

ADCP datasets with the NLOM output at the time of the 

cruise (i.e., not climatology) provides a more rigorous 

validation of the NLOM output in the western equatorial 

Pacific. 

4. Discussion 

The effects of the major currents and eddies, and their 

annual variations, on the circulation near Palau are summarized based on the information from OSCAR, TRITON, 

NLOM and the Joint Archive for Ship-based ADCP. 

The OSCAR mean dynamic topography (MDT) was 

recently updated from a dataset that did not coincide with 

the 1993–2003 time period (derived from Levitus et al., 

1994; Levitus and Boyer, 1994) to a more rigorously de420 S. F. Heron et al. 
0.5 m/s
 

15°N
 

10°N
 

5°N
 

Eq
 g) Jul h) Aug
 

15°N
 

10°N
 

5°N
 

Eq
 i) Sep j) Oct
 

15°N
 

10°N
 

5°N
 

Eq
 k) Nov l) Dec 

130°E 135°E 140°E 145°E 130°E 135°E 140°E 145°E 

Fig. 5. (continued). 

15o

N 

0.5 m/s 

10o

N 

5o

N 

Eq 

130o

E 135oE 140oE 145oE 150oE 

Fig. 6. Surface layer currents from ADCP measurements for the period 1993–2000. Data are averaged into 0.5° × 0.5° bins. 

fined MDT that was representative of the period of of the major ocean features. Prior to the update, the 

OSCAR data (F. Bonjean, 2004, personal communica- OSCAR currents did not instill much confidence and the 

tion). This change caused a significant alteration to the choice to favor the NLOM output was clear. The postvector fields and consequently to the position and extent update OSCAR output showed significant visual improveSeasonal Variations of the Ocean Surface Circulation in the Vicinity of Palau 421 
Table 1. Vector correlation coefficients between NLOM monthly mean upper layer current climatologies and each of the pre- and 

post-update OSCAR monthly mean surface current climatologies. 

NLOM vs. pre-update OSCAR NLOM vs. post-update OSCAR 

Jan 0.67 0.66 

Feb 0.71 0.68 

Mar 0.69 0.68 

Apr 0.67 0.65 

May 0.63 0.58 

Jun 0.62 0.57 

Jul 0.62 0.63 

Aug 0.62 0.65 

Sep 0.52 0.53 

Oct 0.48 0.43 

Nov 0.55 0.52 

Dec 0.62 0.64 

(a) 15o

N 

0.5 m/s 

10o

N 

5o

N 

Eq 

130o

E 135oE 140oE 145oE 150oE 

(b)	 0.5 m/s
 

15°N
 

10°N 

5°N 

Eq 

130°E 135°E 140°E 145°E 150°E 

Fig. 7. (a) ADCP surface currents measured during cruise 517 (October–November 1999), averaged into 0.25° × 0.25° bins. 

(b) NLOM mean upper layer currents corresponding to ADCP data for cruise 517 (October–November 1999). 

422 S. F. Heron et al. 
Table 2. Vector correlation coefficients between ADCP data and NLOM output from the same time period. 

Cruise identifier Cruise dates Correlation with NLOM output 

86 24 Jan–22 Feb 1993 0.64 

138 05 Oct–09 Nov 1993 0.59 

36 11 Apr–11 May 1994 0.42 

535 21 Dec 1994–11 Jan 1995 0.26 

483 13 Jan–23 Jan 1995 0.56 

509 01–14 Jul 1995 0.74 

510 23 Jan–21 Feb 1996 0.43 

464 17 Jun–02 Jul 1996 0.68 

511 07 Jul–04 Aug 1996 0.30 

512 26 Jan–27 Feb 1997 0.28 

513 29 Jul–28 Aug 1997 0.55 

514 03–29 Jan 1998 0.47 

515 08 Aug–08 Sep 1998 0.26 

516 26 Jan–28 Feb 1999 0.69 

517 21 Oct–23 Nov 1999 0.71 

518 31 Aug–30 Sep 2000 0.70 

ment as compared with literature studies and is the dataset 

presented here. In comparing the two OSCAR datasets 

(pre- and post-update) with the NLOM output, the new 

dataset appears considerably closer to that of NLOM. 

However, vector correlation between NLOM monthly 

climatologies and that of each of the OSCAR datasets 

resulted in very similar results. Table 1 shows the correlation coefficients; the averages of the pre- and post-update correlation coefficients are nearly identical, as are 

the annual variations of each. While the statistics do not 

reflect an improvement, the visual correlation between 

the post-update OSCAR and NLOM lends confidence in 

the more recent dataset. While it is unlikely that either of 

the NLOM and (post-update) OSCAR datasets are completely correct, the convergence of the information suggests they are both approaching a true representation of 

the western equatorial Pacific flow and that the truth is 

likely to lie somewhere between them. 

Figures 7(a) and (b) show the ADCP data (averaged 

into 0.25° bins) and NLOM output, respectively, for October–November 1999. A visual comparison suggests that 

the model successfully replicates the position and dimension of surface features inferred from the data. The daily 

NLOM output was interpolated to the locations of the 

ADCP data points and a vector correlation between these 

calculated to be 0.71. Vector correlations were performed 

for each of the sixteen ADCP datasets and are shown in 

Table 2. The correlation coefficients were within the range 

0.26–0.74, with a mean of 0.52. Nine values were above 

the mean with a further three greater than one standard 

deviation below the mean. Figures 8(a) and (b) shows the 

comparison for January–February 1997, for which a correlation coefficient of 0.28 was calculated. The NECC 

Tail at the longitude of Palau appears to be too far north 

in the NLOM output, as does the eastward flow of the 

NGCC. The data along the 138°E meridional transect in 

Fig. 8(a) may represent the eddy centered at 140°E, 2°N 

in the accompanying NLOM plot. For those NLOM output with poor correlations to the ADCP data, visual comparison suggests that the major features of the flow are 

present in the NLOM output but are displaced from the 

locations observed in the ADCP data. While the spatial 

shifting of such features is significant, the pattern of the 

flow given by NLOM is consistent with the ADCP data. 

Of note in Fig. 8 are the strong east-directed currents at the equator. The monthly climatologies in Fig. 5 

show that eastward, equatorial flow exists more weakly 

in the December–January climatologies and has ceased 

by February. While it can be postulated that this anomalous current may be related with onset of the 1997–98 

ENSO event, it certainly illustrates the high variability 

in the western equatorial Pacific region. 

While it can only be postulated that this anomalous 

current may be generated by west-directed winds, prior 

to or during the onset of the 1997–98 ENSO event, it certainly illustrates the high variability in the western equatorial Pacific region. 

5. Conclusion 

A seasonal variation of the currents in the waters 

surrounding the main islands of Palau is supported by both 

NLOM and OSCAR outputs. The seasonality in the 

TRITON wind data (i.e., December–April and July–October) is mirrored by the circulation around Palau. 

During the period December to April, the currents at 

Palau are influenced by the NECC and the ME. The posiSeasonal Variations of the Ocean Surface Circulation in the Vicinity of Palau 423 
(a) 15o

N 

0.5 m/s 

10o

N 

5o

N 

Eq 

130o

E 135oE 140oE 145oE 150oE 

(b)	 0.5 m/s
 

15°N
 

10°N 

5°N 

Eq 

130°E 135°E 140°E 145°E 150°E 

Fig. 8. As Fig. 7, except for cruise 512 (January–February 1997). 

15o

N 

0.5 m/s 

10o

N 

5o

N 

Eq 

130o

E 135oE 140oE 145oE 150oE 

Fig. 9. ADCP surface currents measured during cruise 036 (April–May 1994, black) and cruise 037 (April–May 1992, gray) in 

the vicinity of the Palau Eddy (cf. Fig. 4). Data from each cruise is averaged into 0.25° × 0.25° bins. 

424 S. F. Heron et al. 
tions of the ME and NECC Tail are generally farther north 

in the NLOM output than that given by OSCAR. The 

Palauan currents described by NLOM are dominated by 

the NECC and are directed more towards the northeast; 

OSCAR currents are dominated by the ME and thus deflect more towards the northwest. The direction of the 

TRITON wind data for this period is from the northeast. 

Accounting for the Ekman-shift between wind and current directions, this suggests that the surface water transport will be directed towards the north and northwest. 

Combining these pieces of information suggests that the 

current is generally directed to the north in this period. 

The speed of the current for this period, according to both 

NLOM and OSCAR, is around 20 cm/s. 

Both data sets indicate the effect of the ME upon the 

currents to the west of Palau through the December to 

April period. The currents curve with the shape of the 

ME, from northeast to northwest, with increasing latitude. 

As the ME migrates northwards through this period, the 

directions of the currents turn clockwise. As the ME decreases in its meridional extent (from April onwards), its 

effect on the Palauan currents is reduced. 

The NLOM output suggests the formation of the PE 

in April; however, this eddy is not observed in the 

OSCAR output. This may be due to the lower spatial resolution of OSCAR. The existence of the PE would affect 

the currents along the east coast of Palau through significant portions of the year. ADCP data for April–May 1992 

and April–May 1994, shown in Fig. 9, supports the existence of a cyclonic circulation (the PE) at a similar location as indicated by the NLOM climatology (Fig. 4). 

During April and May, the PE directs currents along 

the east coast of Palau to the south with speeds up to 25 

cm/s. With the southward migration of the NECC Tail in 

June, the currents east of Palau are less directionally defined and reduced in magnitude to less than 15 cm/s. West 

of Palau the ME continues to weaken, resulting in northdirected currents of approximately 10–15 cm/s. 

During the period July to September, the major surface features do not affect the waters around Palau and 

the circulation becomes somewhat disordered. The flow 

shows a tendency to the north along the west coast and to 

the south along the east coast. The magnitude of the currents is around 5 cm/s. With the regeneration of the PE in 

October, the south-directed current along the eastcoast 

increases to 15 cm/s. In November the currents begin the 

transition to their north-directed winter pattern with the 

return of the NECC Tail to its northern path. 

The seasonal variation of the surface circulation in 

the western equatorial Pacific is linked to the Asian 

monsoon cycle and is dependent upon the major surface 

features of the region. Observational data were used to 

validate numerical model output in the region and, together, these have confirmed the locations and annual 

variations of the established surface features. Previously 

undescribed, transient eddies (named here the Palau Eddy, 

Caroline Eddy and Micronesian Eddy) have been identified and their seasonality discussed. The flow in the immediate vicinity of Palau is affected by many of these 

features. 

This description of the currents is the first known 

study of the variability of circulation around Palau and 

thus forms a basis for oceanographic studies of Palauan 

waters. The currents described provide insight into studies of biological connectivity and may be applied as farfield boundary conditions for high resolution numerical 

models of Palau. The identification of transient eddies, 

in both location and seasonal duration, from the model 

output provides a sensible guide for future studies to obtain in situ data. 

Acknowledgements 

OSCAR data were provided by NOAA/NESDIS under the National Oceanographic Partnership Program. 

Thanks to the TRITON Project Office (Dr. Yoshifumi 

Kuroda, Director) for the buoy data and to the JASADCP 

for the ADCP data archive. This work was performed as 

part of the 6.1 Dynamics of Low Latitude Western Boundary Currents project under program element 601153N 

sponsored by the Office of Naval Research. The numerical simulation was performed using a grant of computer 

time from the Department of Defense High Performance 

Computing Modernization Office on the Cray T3E computer at the Naval Oceanographic Office, Stennis Space 

Center, Mississippi. Thanks to Tamara Townsend (NRL) 

who performed the NLOM simulation used here. This 

work was funded, in part, by The Nature Conservancy, 

including a contribution from the Michael and Andrea 

Banks Nature Fund. Thanks to Al Strong and Eric Bayler 

whose comments improved the manuscript. 

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1386–1398. 

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Qu, T. and R. Lukas (2003): The bifurcation of the North Equatorial Current in the Pacific. J. Phys. Oceanogr., 33, 5–18. 

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426 S. F. Heron et al. 
Appendix 3 

Satellite Bathymetry Use in Numerical Models of Ocean Thermal Stress 

Scott F. Heron and William J. Skirving 

Abstract 

Techniques for deriving estimated bathymetry from satellite data are well established; however, use of 

this product in complex terrains is limited. Accurate bathymetry is essential in the construction of 

hydrodynamic models and satellite derived bathymetry is a strong candidate for use in coastal and 

shallow waters. A case study of Palau is presented which uses satellite-derived bathymetry as input to a 

hydrodynamic model. Palau underwent widespread coral bleaching during 1998, thought to be due to 

thermal stress, and existing satellite products observed anomalous increases in temperature. The 

numerical model is used to evaluate sea surface temperature patterns during such a bleaching event. 

Comparisons between the model and thermal indicators derived from satellite data are made, and the 

results used to suggest improvements for satellite monitoring of thermal stress events. 

Citation: 

Heron, S.F. and W.J. Skirving. (2004) Satellite bathymetry use in numerical models of ocean thermal 

stress. La Revista Gayana, 68, (2) 284-288.
 

The text of this article is reprinted in this document with permission from La Revista Gayana, 

Universidad de Concepción, Casilla 160-C Correo 3. Concepción. Chile S.A. Please use the above 

citation for any information in this article. 

298 
 

La Revista Gayana 68(2) supl. t.I. Proc.: 284-288, 2004 ISSN 0717-652X 

Gayana (Concepción) On-line version ISSN 0717-6538 

doi: 10.4067/S0717-65382004000200051 

SATELLITE BATHYMETRY USE IN NUMERICAL MODELS OF OCEAN THERMAL 

STRESS 

S.F. Heron & W.J. Skirving 

Coral Reef Watch 

National Environmental Satellite Data Information Service 

National Oceanographic and Atmospheric Administration 

Scott.Heron@noaa.gov 

ABSTRACT 

Techniques for deriving estimated bathymetry from satellite data are well established; however, use of 

this product in complex terrains is limited. Accurate bathymetry is essential in the construction of 

hydrodynamic models and satellite-derived bathymetry is a strong candidate for use in coastal and 

shallow waters. A case study of Palau is presented which uses satellite-derived bathymetry as input to a 

hydrodynamic model. Palau underwent widespread coral bleaching during 1998, thought to be due to 

thermal stress, and existing satellite products observed anomalous increases in temperature. The 

numerical model is used to evaluate sea surface temperature patterns during such a bleaching event. 

Comparisons between the model and thermal indicators derived from satellite data are made, and the 

results used to suggest improvements for satellite monitoring of thermal stress events. 

INTRODUCTION 

Coral bleaching is the process by which a coral polyp, under environmental stress, expels its symbiotic 

zooxanthellae. The affected coral colony appears bleached. Severe bleaching can cause death of the coral 

colony. In September 1998, coral reefs across Palau were observed to be severely affected by bleaching 

(Wilkinson, 1998). A large proportion of the region (70-80%) underwent widespread bleaching and 

incurred high mortality rates; however, other regions appeared less affected. 

One of the major environmental stresses that causes bleaching of corals is heightened water temperature 

(Berkelmans & Willis, 1999). Increased water temperatures, and hence bleaching events, are linked to 

weather events, which in turn may or may not be linked to climate events (e.g., El Niño). Mass bleaching 

occurs when there is an extended summer period of calm, sunny conditions that coincide with weak 

currents. 

Over 98% of solar radiation energy is absorbed within the top 4 metres of the water column. This heat 

remains at the top of the water column unless there is a mechanism to mix it with the cooler water below. 

Vertical mixing occurs in regions of relatively strong horizontal currents, which can be associated with 

surface winds, large scale currents (e.g., North Equatorial Current) and tides. Therefore, extended periods 

of sustained cloudless summer days with low winds and low currents will likely induce bleaching events. 
Hydrodynamic models can be used to describe oceanographic currents and from these predict SST 

patterns for future, severe, mass coral bleaching events. Hydrodynamic modelling can also assist in the 

investigation of other issues that relate to the coral reef ecosystem; connectivity with biological events 

(e.g., coral/fish spawning) and anthropogenic interactions (e.g., sewage outfall, pollution accidents) can 

be monitored and/or predicted. 

One of the most important inputs to a high resolution hydrodynamic model is the bathymetry. The effect 

of incorrect bathymetry on computational fluid dynamic models can be significant and, as such, the 

accuracy of bathymetry can be crucial to the success of the numerical model (a detailed discussion is 

given in Gille et al., 2004). For remote geographic locations, where in situ data are limited, remote 

sensing techniques can provide such bathymetry. 

Lyzenga (1978) developed a theoretical basis for describing water depth by passive remote sensing upon 

which many others have expanded. Stumpf et al. (2003) applied this knowledge to investigate shallow 

regions with low bottom-albedo and variable bottom-types (e.g., sand, coral, algae, seagrass) using 

satellite data and developed a new algorithm for estimating water depths to 25 m and beyond. 

In this work, satellite-derived bathymetry data are used as input for a numerical model to study the 

surface currents near Palau. From the model output, regions of vertical mixing are identified and the 

subsequent reduction in surface temperature for these waters is calculated. Patterns in the modelled 

temperature distribution are compared with satellite-derived Sea Surface Temperature (SST) data. 

METHOD 

Historical bathymetric data for Palau were measured primarily by Japanese ships prior to the Second 

World War; however, little in-situ data has been published since 1969. Newhall & Rohmann (2003) 

derived estimated-depths for the region surrounding Palau from LandSat imagery to use in classifying 

benthic habitat. The method used followed that described in Stumpf et al. (2003), an algorithm which is 

accurate to an approximate depth of 25 metres. The estimated-depth values were determined at the grid 

resolution of the LandSat image; i.e., 28.5 m. As the desired resolution for the numerical model was 

approximately 250 m, the estimated depth values were averaged across 99 points to produce a 256.5 m 

resolution data set. To describe the bathymetry beyond the depth-scope of the LandSat data (~20 m), the 

two-arc-minute-resolution data of Smith & Sandwell (1997) were interpolated to a 256.5 m grid aligned 

with the LandSat-derived data. Some smoothing was undertaken to combine the datasets. In addition, 

corrections were made to the data near to land, known coral reefs and in regions of obvious discrepancy, 

determined by comparison of the data with nautical charts and depth soundings (C. McLean, unpublished 

data). The corrections were incorporated by removing incorrect values, inserting replacement values 

where available and krigeing the data to fill any remaining gridpoints. Initial output from the 

computational model gave further indications of short-comings in the bathymetry, deduced by the 

presence/absence of observed currents, and further corrections were made. 

The numerical study was undertaken using the Princeton Ocean Model (POM) as described by Blumberg 

& Mellor (1987). POM is a terrain-following (s-coordinate) model that has been used in a variety of 

oceanic and coastal applications (e.g., Chang & Isobe, 2003). The surface currents around Palau were 

modelled on a two-dimensional rectangular grid of 764328 points at 256.5 m resolution. Model land was 

defined by a 2.5 m isobath. Surface current velocities were defined at the open boundaries according to 

Heron et al. (in prep.) for the December to March season. The sea-surface elevations at these boundaries 

were defined as a function of tide gauge data collected in the Palau lagoon (Malakal Harbour). The 

boundary conditions were defined so as to reproduce the recorded elevations at the nearest model gridpoint as closely as possible. No wind stress was applied in the model, as per the conditions for mass coral 
 

bleaching events. The model was ramped to the stated boundary conditions for 0.5 days and then run for 

29.5 days. Model validation was performed using data collected during Aug 2002 Jan 2003, described in 

Steinberg et al. (in prep.). 

The currents output from the computational model can be used to determine whether there is vertical 

mixing, due to bottom friction, throughout the water column. Simpson & Hunter (1974) examined the 

energy required for full vertical mixing and deduced a parameter to describe the position of fronts 

between mixed and stratified waters in the Irish Sea. This parameter (h/u3

, where h is the water depth and 

u is the surface velocity) was determined at each model timestep across the numerical domain. The value 

suggested by Simpson et al. (1982) for complete vertical mixing was employed here; i.e. 

log10[ h/u3 ] < 2.7 

As mass bleaching events are related to temperature stress, an estimate of temperature variations, due to 

vertical mixing, was calculated. A vertical profile of the water temperature was determined by modelling 

the diurnal insolation of an initially uniform-temperature water column for a period of two weeks. The 

profile was then mixed from the surface to a specified depth to determine the reduction in temperature at 

the sea surface for a fully-mixed water column of that depth. This temperature-reduction was calculated 

for the range of water depths observed in the Palau lagoon, thus providing an indication of the 

temperature of the water column for any regions that are fully mixed. Advection of cooled waters is not 

presented here but will likely expand any areas cooled by the mixing mechanism. The temperature 

distribution across the Palau lagoon due to mixing was compared with satellite-derived Sea Surface 

Temperature (SST) data acquired during the widespread bleaching event in late 1998. SST values from 

the Pathfinder 4km SST database for the period 01 May 1998 28 Feb 1999 were examined to compare 

with the results from the model output. The daily data selected were for the night-time descending pass of 

the satellite so as to eliminate diurnal heating effects. For the region corresponding to the model domain, 

the quality tests imposed upon the 4km SST data discounted more than 80% of the values. The analysis of 

Kilpatrick et al. (2001) uses two tests to determine if an SST value is of sufficient quality. The first test 

compares the SST value with a value derived from the weekly SST data described by Reynolds & Smith 

(1994). Kilpatrick et al. (2001) indicate that this comparison may be biased in coastal zones and in 

regions with large SST gradients (spatial or temporal). The second discriminaton identifies pixels 

contaminated with cloud. Failure to meet the conditions of either of these tests causes the data to be 

considered as poor quality. Due to the coastal location and variable-temperature nature of this study, the 

"poor-quality" pixel data were also considered. 

RESULTS 

Surface currents derived in the Palau model during the advent of the highest high-tide of the 30-day 

modelled period are shown in Figure 1. The surface currents in the lagoon exceeded 1.4 m/s during the 

spring tides. The surface currents in the Palau region are tidally-dominated (Heron et al., in prep.). As 

such, the currents, and therefore the vertical mixing, are maximised during times of greatest tidal range. 

Figure 2 illustrates the minimum value of the Simpson-Hunter parameter across the domain, 

corresponding to the greatest mixing that occurs for each location. From this it can be seen that very few 

regions of the Palau lagoon undergo complete vertical mixing. The determined mixing-induced 

temperature variations are referenced to a maximum temperature of 32.6°C and the resultant temperature 

values are shown in Figure 3. The temperature range in Figure 3 was matched to the satellite observation, 

discussed below, for ease of comparison. 

Imagery from the Pathfinder SST 4 km dataset were examined for comparison with the modelled 

temperature distribution. The daily image for which the highest SST was measured (32.6°C) was selected; 
the data were collected on 09 Sep 1998. This was one of only four images from the study period for 

which greater than 70% of the pixels passed the quality tests. In the selected image, some pixels 

surrounding the largest island of Palau were flagged as poor data. Examination of the quality masks 

indicated that the data were flagged by the first quality test described above. As this test is known to be 

biased against coastal regions, the "poor quality" SST values were included. The SST image for this day 

is shown in Figure 4, overlaid with the model land for ease of comparison. White pixels indicate land and 

coloured pixels indicate the SST value in degrees Celsius. The pixels with grey hash-strokes are those 

flagged by the quality testing as poor data. The average measured SST value (high-quality only) across 

the illustrated domain was 31.6°C. 

Figure 1. Currents around Palau output from numerical model. Horizontal resolution of vectors is 

approximately 4 km (16 gridpoints) for presentation purposes. Maximum current shown is 1.33 m/s. Axis 

scales in Universal Transverse Mercator (135 E) coordinates. 
Figure 2. Minimum value of Simpson-Hunter parameter during 30 day model-run. The colour scale is in 

dimensionless units of log10[h/u3

]. A value below 2.7 indicates complete vertical mixing. 

Figure 3. Modelled sea surface temperature due to vertical mixing. The values are reduced from a 

maximum value of 32.6°C. 
 

Figure 4. Pathfinder 4km SST values for the Palau region on 09 Sep 1998. White pixels represent land; 

coloured pixels represent SST in °C; grey hash-lines indicate data flagged as poor-quality. The model 

land is shown in purple for ease of comparison with previous figures. 

DISCUSSION 

Figure 3 shows two main areas of reduced temperature; the southern lagoon and a region in the north 

(near [445km E, 860 km N], known to be a grouper spawning zone (Johannes et al., 1999). Comparison 

of the water temperatures across the lagoon is somewhat limited by the resolution of the satellite data; 

however, temperature patterns may be observed and discussed. The extreme low temperatures of some 

"poor-quality" pixels in the top-left and at the centre of Figure 4 appear to have been correctly flagged as 

poor; however, many of the pixels in the regions designated as poor appear to display credible 

temperatures. 

At the locations of predicted vertical mixing (Fig. 2), slight reductions in the measured SST, compared 

with surrounding pixels, can be observed (Fig. 4). In the southern lagoon, two relatively-cooler pixels are 

observed near [134.30°E, 7.15°N] and a further two near [134.38°E, 7.23°N]. These pixels correspond 

with predicted locations of mixing-induced cooling. In the grouper spawning region in northern Palau, the 

model predicts regions of cooling. The SST data in this location are indeed cooler than those in the 

surrounding, non-mixed waters. However, near [134.32°E, 7.27°N], the hottest temperature pixel for the 

domain is located in a region for which significant mixing (and therefore cooling) was predicted. 

The overall patterns in the datasets suggest that vertical mixing of water columns, and the subsequent 

decrease in SST, may be a significant mechanism for surface cooling in the Palauan lagoon. Further work 

on the model output is required to incorporate the effects of advection of cooled waters. As coral reefs are 

primarily located in shallow, coastal regions, improvements to the monitoring of thermal stress on corals 

using satellite platforms requires SST algorithms to perform with greater stability in coastal areas. 

Increased horizontal resolution is a first step for this; however, consistently producing data of sufficient 
 

quality in these regions is a necessity. Derivation of at-depth temperatures from satellite data will aid in 

further understanding of thermal impacts on corals throughout the water column. 

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS 

Craig Steinberg is thanked for his input to the development of the vertical mixing algorithm. The 

Pathfinder 4km SST data were obtained from the NOAA/NESDIS/NODC ftp site at: 

ftp://data.nodc.noaa.gov/pub/data.nodc/pathfinder/Version5.0/. 

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United States Department of Commerce 

Gary Locke 

Secretary 

National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration 

Dr. Jane Lubchenco 

Under Secretary of Commerce for Oceans and Atmospheres 

National Ocean Service 

David Kennedy 

Acting Assistant Administrator for Ocean Service and Coastal Zone Management