WARRANTY

Great Planes® Model Manufacturing Co. guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date of

purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Great Planes’ liability

exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Further, Great Planes reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice.

In that Great Planes has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed nor accepted

for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the user-assembled product,

the user accepts all resulting liability.

If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, the buyer is advised to return this kit

immediately in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.

READ THROUGH THIS MANUAL BEFORE STARTING

CONSTRUCTION. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT

INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNING

THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF THIS MODEL.

GPMZ0255 for GPMA1042 V1.0 Entire Contents © Copyright 2001

1610 Interstate Drive Champaign, IL 61822

(217) 398-8970, Ext. 2

airsupport@greatplanes.com

INSTRUCTION MANUAL

Wingspan: 55.5 in [1410mm]

Wing area: 555 sq in [35.8 dm2

]

Weight: 4.75 – 5.0 lbs [2.2 – 2.3 kg]

Wing loading: 19.7 – 20.8 oz/sq ft [59.7 – 62.9 g/dm2

]

Length: 46 in [1170mm]

Radio: 4-channel with four servos

Engine: .40 - .46 cu in [6.5 - 7.5cc] two-stroke, .52 cu in

[8.5cc] four-stroke
INTRODUCTION................................................................2

SAFETY PRECAUTIONS ..................................................2

ENGINE RECOMMENDATIONS ......................................3

ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED ....................................3

Hardware & Accessories ................................................3

Adhesives & Building Supplies ......................................3

Optional Supplies & Tools ..............................................4

IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES ......................................4

ORDERING REPLACEMENT PARTS ..............................5

METRIC CONVERSIONS..................................................5

METRIC/INCH RULER ......................................................5

KIT CONTENTS ................................................................6

PREPARATIONS................................................................7

BUILD THE WING..............................................................7

Join the Wing......................................................................7

Assemble the Landing Gear ..............................................8

Hook Up the Ailerons ........................................................9

BUILD THE FUSELAGE ..................................................11

Mount the Stab & Fin ......................................................11

Join the Elevators & Rudder ............................................13

Mount the Engine ............................................................14

Install the Fuel Tank ........................................................15

FINAL ASSEMBLY ..........................................................15

Hookup the Controls ........................................................15

Finish the Cockpit ............................................................17

Fuelproof the Model ........................................................18

Apply the Decals ..............................................................18

GET THE MODEL READY TO FLY..................................18

Balance the Model (C.G.) ................................................18

Balance the Model Laterally ............................................19

Check the Control Directions ..........................................19

Set the Control Throws ....................................................20

PREFLIGHT ....................................................................20

Identify Your Model ..........................................................20

Charge the Batteries ........................................................20

Balance the Propellers ....................................................20

Ground Check ..................................................................20

Range Check....................................................................21

ENGINE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS ................................21

AMA SAFETY CODE (excerpt) ......................................21

CHECK LIST....................................................................22

FLYING ............................................................................22

Takeoff..............................................................................22

Flight ................................................................................23

Landing ............................................................................23

Congratulations and thank you for purchasing the Great

Planes Super SportsterTM 40 MK II ARF. If you’re relatively

new to R/C airplanes, you may not have heard, but the

Super Sportster design has been around for several years.

It has been so successful, in fact, that it has made its own

place in model airplane history. No matter what your primary

interest or flight skills, because of its versatility, every

modeler who has mastered the basics of R/C flight should

own a Super Sportster. It can be flown fast like a pylon racer,

relatively slow like a trainer, and of course, the Super

Sportster 40 MK II ARF can perform just about all the

aerobatics you can throw at it – it’s the perfect model!

If you’ve already mastered a high-wing trainer but haven’t

yet flown a low-wing sport model, we suggest a couple of

“check-flights” with an experienced modeler standing by to

assist. There’s nothing tricky about flying the Super

Sportster, and you’ll catch on quickly, but it doesn’t have the

self-righting characteristics of a basic high-wing trainer.

For the latest technical updates or manual corrections for

this model, visit the web site listed below and select the

Great Planes Super Sportster 40 MK II ARF. If there is new

technical information or changes to this ARF, a “tech notice”

box will appear in the upper left corner of the page.

http://www.greatplanes.com/airplanes/index.html 

1. Your Great Planes Super Sportster 40 MK II ARF should

not be considered a toy, but rather a sophisticated, working

model that functions very much like a full-size airplane.

Because of its performance capabilities, the Super

Sportster, if not assembled and operated correctly, could

possibly cause injury to yourself or spectators and damage

to property.

2. You must assemble the model according to the

instructions. Do not alter or modify the model, as doing so

may result in an unsafe or unflyable model. In a few cases

the instructions may differ slightly from the photos. In those

instances the written instructions should be considered as

correct.

3. You must take time to build straight, true and strong.

4. You must use an R/C radio system that is in first-class

condition, and a correctly sized engine and components

(fuel tank, wheels, etc.) throughout the building process.

5. You must correctly install all R/C and other components

so that the model operates correctly on the ground and in

the air.

6. You must check the operation of the model before every

flight to insure that all equipment is operating and that the

model has remained structurally sound. Be sure to check

clevises or other connectors often and replace them if they

show any signs of wear or fatigue.

PROTECT YOUR MODEL, YOURSELF

& OTHERS...FOLLOW THESE

IMPORTANT SAFETY PRECAUTIONS

INTRODUCTION

TABLE OF CONTENTS

2
7. If you are not already an experienced R/C pilot, you

should fly the model only with the help of a competent,

experienced R/C pilot.

8. While this kit has been flight tested to exceed normal use,

if the plane will be used for extremely high stress flying,

such as actual racing, or if the model is to be flown with an

engine larger than the recommended range, the modeler is

responsible for taking steps to reinforce the high stress points.

Remember: Take your time and follow the instructions to

end up with a well-built model that is straight and true.

If you have not flown a low-wing model with ailerons before,

we recommend that you get the assistance of an

experienced pilot in your R/C club for your first flights. If

you’re not a member of a club, your local hobby shop has

information about clubs in your area whose membership

includes experienced pilots.

In addition to joining an R/C club, we strongly recommend

you join the AMA (Academy of Model Aeronautics). AMA

membership is required to fly at AMA sanctioned clubs.

There are over 2,500 AMA chartered clubs across the

country. Among other benefits, the AMA provides insurance

to its members who fly at sanctioned sites and events.

Additionally, training programs and instructors are available

at AMA club sites to help you get started the right way.

Contact the AMA at the address or toll-free telephone

number below:

Academy of Model Aeronautics

5151 East Memorial Drive

Muncie, IN 47302-9252

Tele. (800) 435-9262

Fax (765) 741-0057

Or via the Internet at: http://www.modelaircraft.org

The recommended engine size range for the Great Planes

Super Sportster 40 MK II ARF is .40 – .46 cu in [6.5 - 7.5cc]

two-stroke or .52 cu in [8.5cc] four-stroke. The prototype

was first tested with an O.S.® MAX .46 FX. If you like to fly

fast, this is the ideal engine. With a hot .46, at 4.75 lbs the

Super Sportster 40 MK II ARF was fast, yet remained solid,

stable and predictable. Later, the Sportster was test-flown

with an O.S. .52 four-stroke. If you prefer four-strokes, rest

assured, the .52 provides just as much fun. In fact, with a 12

x 6 prop, the vertical performance with the .52 was slightly

better than the .46. We did consider doing some flight

testing with a .70 four-stroke, and although the Super

Sportster 40 kit can be flown with a .70, this ARF version

has a lighter airframe, so a .70 would really be just too much

(not to mention the additional tail weight that would be

required to balance the model!).

Note: If using a “short” engine such as an O.S. MAX LA .40

– .46, you will have to make an engine mount spacer from

1/4" plywood (not supplied) as shown on page 23 in the

manual.

This is the list of hardware and accessories required to

finish the Great Planes Super Sportster 40 MK II ARF. Order

numbers are provided in parentheses.

❏ Engine and suitable propellers

❏ 2 oz. ProTM CA (Thin, GPMR6003)

❏ 4-channel radio with 4 standard servos 

❏ 6" [150mm] Servo extension (to connect aileron servo

to receiver, HCAM2701 for Futaba®)

❏ 3' Medium fuel tubing (GPMQ4131) 

❏ R/C foam rubber (1/4" [6mm] - HCAQ1000, or 1/2"

[13mm] - HCAQ1050)

❏ 2" [50mm] (1/6 scale) Pilot figure such as a William’s

Brother’s #180 racing pilot (WBRQ2480) or a #184

Sportsman pilot (WBRQ2484)

❏ Black paint for cockpit

❏ 1/4" [6mm] White Kwik Stripe striping tape (for canopy

trim, GPMQ1610)

In addition to common household tools and hobby tools, this

is a “short list” of the most important items required to build

this model. Great Planes Pro CA and Epoxy glue is

recommended.

❏ 1/2 oz. Thin Pro CA (GPMR6001)

❏ 1/2 oz. Medium Pro CA (GPMR6007)

❏ 30-Minute Epoxy (GPMR6047)

❏ English drill bit sizes: 1/16", 3/32", 1/8", 5/32", 3/16"

-or-

❏ Metric drill bit sizes: 1.6mm, 2.4mm, 3.2mm, 4mm,

4.8mm

❏ Hobbico® Servo Horn drill (or #48 or 5/64") [2mm]

(HCAR0698) 

Adhesives & Building Supplies

Hardware & Accessories

ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED

ENGINE RECOMMENDATIONS

We, as the kit manufacturer, provide you with a top quality

kit and instructions, but ultimately the quality and flyability

of your finished model depends on how you build it;

therefore, we cannot in any way guarantee the

performance of your completed model, and no

representations are expressed or implied as to the

performance or safety of your completed model.

3
❏ 4-40 tap and #43 (or 3/32") [2.4mm] drill 

-or-

❏ Great Planes 4-40 tap and drill set (GPMR8101)

❏ White or clear RTV (room temperature vulcanizing)

silicone sealer

❏ Masking tape

Here is a list of additional optional items we used to

assemble this model.

❏ CA activator (GPMR6034)

❏ Great Planes 3/32" and 7/64" long-handle hex

wrenches (GPMR8002, GPMR8003) Switch and

charge jack mounting set (GPMM1000)

❏ 21st Century® sealing iron (COVR2700)

❏ 21st Century iron cover (COVR2702)

❏ Top Flite® Trim Seal ToolTM (TOPR2200)

❏ Microballoons (TOPR1090)

❏ Builders Triangle Set (HCAR0480)

❏ Dead CenterTM engine mount hole locator (GPMR8130)

❏ Great Planes ThreadlockerTM thread locking compound

(GPMR6060)

❏ K & S #801 Kevlar thread (for stab alignment

K+SR4575)

❏ Denatured Alcohol (for epoxy clean up)

❏ Curved Tip Canopy Scissors for trimming plastic

(HCAR0667)

❏ R/C-56 Canopy Glue (JOZR5007)

❏ Great Planes CG MachineTM (GPMR2400)

❏ Great Planes AccuThrowTM Deflection Gauge (for

measuring control throws, GPMR2405)

❏ Top Flite Precision Magnetic Prop BalancerTM (TOPQ5700)

• There are two types of screws used in this kit:

Sheet metal screws are designated by a number and a

length. For example #6 x 3/4" [19mm].

This is a number six screw that is 3/4" [19mm] long.

Machine screws are designated by a number, threads per

inch, and a length. For example 4-40 x 3/4" [19mm].

This is a number four screw that is 3/4" [19mm] long with

forty threads per inch.

• When you see the term test fit in the instructions, it means

that you should first position the part on the assembly

without using any glue, then slightly modify or custom fit the

part as necessary for the best fit.

• Whenever the term glue is written you should rely upon

your experience to decide what type of glue to use. When a

specific type of adhesive works best for that step, the

instructions will make a recommendation.

• Whenever just epoxy is specified you may use either 30-

minute (or 45-minute) epoxy or 6-minute epoxy. When 30-

minute epoxy is specified it is highly recommended that you

use only 30-minute (or 45-minute) epoxy, because you will

need the working time and/or the additional strength.

• Photos and sketches are placed before the step they

refer to. Frequently you can study photos in following steps

to get another view of the same parts.

• The Great Planes Super Sportster 40 MK II ARF is factorycovered with Top Flite MonoKote® film. Should repairs ever

be required, MonoKote can be patched with additional

MonoKote purchased separately. MonoKote is packaged in

six-foot rolls, but some hobby shops also sell it by the foot.

If only a small piece of MonoKote is needed for a minor

patch, perhaps a fellow modeler would give you some.

MonoKote is applied with a model airplane covering iron, but

in an emergency a regular iron could be used. A roll of

MonoKote includes full instructions for application. Following

are the colors used on this model and order numbers for six

foot rolls.

Jet White TOPQ0204

Orange TOPQ0202

Red TOPQ0201

Sapphire Blue TOPQ0226

IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES

Optional Supplies & Tools

4
5

ORDERING REPLACEMENT PARTS

To order replacement parts for the Great Planes Super Sportster 40 MK II ARF, use the order numbers in the Replacement

Parts List that follows. Replacement parts are available only as listed. Not all parts are available separately (an aileron

cannot be purchased separately, but is only available with the wing kit). Replacement parts are not available from Product

Support, but can be purchased from hobby shops or mail order/Internet order firms. Hardware items (screws, nuts, bolts)

are also available from these outlets. If you need assistance locating a dealer to purchase parts, visit www.greatplanes.com

and click on “Where to Buy.” If this kit is missing parts, contact Great Planes Product Support.

Replacement Parts List

Order Number Description How to Purchase

Missing pieces............................Contact Product Support

Instruction manual......................Contact Product Support

Full-size plans ............................Not available 

GPMA2134.......................Wing Set

GPMA2135.......................Fuse Set

GPMA2136......................Tail Set Contact Your Hobby

GPMA2139.......................Wheel Pants ........Supplier to Purchase

GPMA2137......................Canopy These Items

GPMA2138......................Landing Gear (L&R)

1/64" = .4 mm

1/32" = .8 mm

1/16" = 1.6 mm

3/32" = 2.4 mm

1/8" = 3.2 mm

5/32" = 4.0 mm

3/16" = 4.8 mm

1/4" = 6.4 mm

3/8" = 9.5 mm

1/2" = 12.7 mm

5/8" = 15.9 mm

3/4" = 19.0 mm

1" = 25.4 mm

2" = 50.8 mm

3" = 76.2 mm

6" = 152.4 mm

12" = 304.8 mm

18" = 457.2 mm

21" = 533.4 mm

24" = 609.6 mm

30" = 762.0 mm

36" = 914.4 mm

Metric Conversions
6

KIT CONTENTS

Before starting to build, use the Kit Contents list to take an inventory of this kit to make sure it is complete, and inspect

the parts to make sure they are of acceptable quality. If any parts are missing or are not of acceptable quality, or if you need

assistance with assembly, contact Great Planes Product Support. When reporting defective or missing parts, use the part

names exactly as they are written in the Kit Contents list on this page

Great Planes Product Support:

Phone: (217) 398-8970

Fax: (217) 398-7721

E-mail: airsupport@greatplanes.com

1. R & L Wing panels w/ailerons

2. Fuselage

3. Stab w/elevators

4. Fin w/rudder

5. Canopy

6. (2) Painted wheel pants

7. (2) Main landing gear wires

Kit Contents (Photographed)

8. (2) 1/8" [3.2mm] Plywood wing joiners

9. Aileron servo mount

10. Elevator joiner wire

11. (2) 1/8" [3.2mm] Plywood inner

wheel pant mounts

12. Fuel tank w/hardware

13. Tail gear w/tail wheel

14. Great Planes .40 – .70 adjustable

engine mount

15. (2) 2-3/4" [70mm] Wheels

16. Spinner

(4) 6-32 x 3/4" [19mm] SHCS (socket-head cap

screws, engine mount to firewall) 

(4) #6 Lock washers (engine mount to firewall)

(4) #6 Flat washers (engine mount to firewall)

(4) 4-40 x 3/4" [19mm] SHCS (engine to mount)

(4) #4 Lock washers (engine to mount)

(4) #4 Flat washers (engine mount)

(2) Tree of 4 nylon straps (wheel pants-2,

landing gear-4) 

(8) #2 x 1/2" [13mm] Screws (landing gear straps)

(4) #2 x 3/8" [9.5mm] Screws (wheel pant straps) 

(4) 5/32" [4mm] Wheel collars (main wheels)

(4) 6-32 Set screws (for wheel collars)

(1) Prebent tail gear wire w/nylon bearing mount

(1) 1" [25mm] Tail wheel

(1) 3/32" [2.4mm] Wheel collar (tail wheel)

(1) 4-40 Set screw (tail wheel)

Kit Contents (Not Photographed)

(4) Faslinks (ailerons-2, elevator, rudder)

(5) Nylon clevis (ail.-2, throt, rudd, elev)

(5) Silicone retainers (clevises)

(2) 4-40 Nylon torque rod horn (ailerons)

(2) Large control horns (elev., rudd.)

(4) 2-56 x 1/2" [13mm] Phillips screws (control horns)

(1) Brass body screw-lock connector (throttle servo)

(1) 4-40 x 1/4" [6mm] SHCS (screw-lock connector)

(1) Nylon retainer (screw-lock connector)

(2) .074" x 36" [2 x 910mm] Threaded one-end

pushrod wire (elevator, rudder)

(2) .074" x 6" [2 x 150mm] Threaded one-end

pushrod wire (ailerons)

(1) .074" x 17-1/2" [2 x 445mm] Threaded oneend pushrod wire (throttle)

(1) 3/16" x 12" [4.8 x 300mm] Guide tube (throttle) 

(1) 2" x 9" [50 x 230mm] CA hinge strip

(2) 1/4-20 x 2" [50mm] Nylon wing mounting bolts

(2) 3/16" X 36" [ 4.8 x 910mm] Pushrod guide

tubes (preinstalled, elevator/rudder)

(2) 1/4-20 Blind nuts (preinstalled, wing mount) 

(1) Decal sheet

1

1

2

3

5

12

6

7

15

16

14 8

11 10

9

4

13
❏ 1. If you have not yet done so already, remove the major

parts of the kit from the box (wings, fuse, wheel pants, cowl,

tail parts, etc.) and inspect them for damage. If any parts are

damaged or missing, contact Product Support at the

address or telephone number on page 6.

❏ 2. Remove the masking tape and separate the ailerons

from the wing, the rudder from the fin and the elevators from

the stab. Where necessary, use a covering iron with a

covering sock to tighten the covering that may have

loosened during storage or from removing the masking

tape. Apply pressure over sheeted areas to thoroughly

bond the covering to the wood.

❏ 1. Use epoxy to glue both 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood wing

joiners together.

❏ 2. Test fit the aileron servo in the 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood

aileron servo mount. If necessary, trim the opening in the

mount to accommodate the servo.

❏ ❏ 3. Cut the sheeting over the aileron servo mounting area

in the right wing panel to accommodate the servo. As you

can see in following photos, the servo will be centered in the

wing after the two panels are joined. Test fit the servo and

the ply servo mount to the wing panel. Trim the center rib as

necessary to accommodate the servo and the servo wire.

❏ 4. Prepare the other wing panel the same way.

❏ 5. Trim the covering from the ribs on the end of both wing

panels.This is easily done with a bar sander and medium-grit

sandpaper as shown.

Join the Wing

BUILD THE WING

PREPARATIONS

7
❏ 6. Test fit the wing joiner in one wing panel, then the

other. Be certain the joiner is installed upright (the joiner is

angled upward for wing dihedral). Test fit the wing panels

together with the joiner. Make certain both panels fit well.

Make adjustments where required (it is possible that the

joiner may require slight sanding to remove slivers or excess

epoxy that may interfere with the fit).

❏ 7. Once satisfied with the fit of the joiner and the wing,

thoroughly coat the inside of both wing panels where the

joiner fits and one half of the joiner with 30-minute epoxy.

Making certain the joiner is upright, insert the coated end

into one of the wing panels. Coat the other end of the joiner

with the epoxy and join the other wing panel.

❏ 8. Wipe away epoxy that squeezes out from between the

wing halves. Use clamps and masking tape to hold the wing

together as shown. If you don’t have a clamp large enough

for the rear, use rubber bands instead. Be certain the joining

ribs on the ends of the wing panels accurately align. Again,

wipe away excess epoxy and do not disturb the wing until

the epoxy has fully hardened.

While the epoxy on the wing is hardening, go ahead and

work on the landing gear.

Although only the right wheel pant is shown in the photos,

both pants may be assembled at the same time.

❏ ❏ 1. Refer to the photo at step 2 to see how the 1/8"

[3.2mm] plywood inner wheel pant mount fits inside the

right wheel pant. Use a hobby knife to trim a bevel along the

inner edge of the cutout (indicated by the lines) so the

mount lays flat inside the pant.

❏ ❏ 2. Use epoxy mixed with microballoons or other suitable

filler to securely glue the inner wheel pant mount to the

inside of the wheel pant.

Refer to this photo for the following two steps.

❏ ❏ 3. Glue together two 1/8" x 7/8" x 1" [3.2 x 22 x 25mm]

plywood outer wheel pant mounts. Glue together two

more mounts the same way. Use a straightedge to draw

lines on the mounts connecting the corners.

Assemble the Landing Gear

8
❏ ❏ 4. Drill a 5/32" [4mm] hole through both mounts where

the lines cross in the center.

❏ ❏ 5. Drill a 5/32" [4mm] hole through the bottom of the

molded-in indentation in the pant for the landing gear wire.

❏ ❏ 6. Fit the wheel pant onto the landing gear wire followed

by the outer wheel pant mount. Position the wheel pant on

the landing gear so the landing gear is centered in the pant.

Push the mount all the way to the outside of the pant. This

is the where the mount is to be glued to the pant.

❏ ❏ 7. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue the mount to the pant.

Remove the landing gear wire before the epoxy hardens.

❏ 8. If you have not yet done so, return to step 1 and assemble

the left wheel pant the same way.

While the epoxy on the wheel pants is hardening, return to

the wing and hook up the ailerons.

Do the left wing first so yours matches the photos the

first time through. You can do one wing at a time, or

work on them together.

❏ ❏ 1. Cut four 3/4" x 1" [19 x 25mm] hinges from the 2" x

9" [50 x 230mm] CA hinge strip. Snip the corners off so they

go in easier.

❏ ❏ 2.Test fit the hinges in the hinge slots of the aileron and

the wing. If you have difficulty inserting the hinges, insert a

#11 blade into the slot and carefully move it back and forth

to slightly widen the slot.

❏ ❏ 3. Test fit the aileron to the wing with the hinges. Use

a fine-point ballpoint pen to mark the wing and aileron in the

middle of each hinge.

❏ ❏ 4. Separate the aileron from the wing and take out all

the hinges.

❏ ❏ 5. Drill a 3/32" [2.4mm] hole, 1/2" [13mm] deep at the

marks you made in the center of each hinge slot to allow the

CA to “wick” in. Follow with a #11 blade to clean out the

1"

[25mm]

1"

[25mm]

3/4"

[19mm]

Hook Up the Ailerons

9
slots. Hint: If available, use a high-speed rotary tool to drill

the holes.

❏ ❏ 6. Cut a small strip of covering from both sides of each

hinge slot. If this is not done, the covering may interfere with

the penetration of the CA into the slot and may also interfere

with free movement of the aileron.

❏ ❏ 7. Coat the “arm” portion of the aileron torque rod and

the groove and the hole in the aileron where the torque rod

fits with epoxy. Join the aileron to the wing and the torque

rod with the hinges. If the hinges don’t remain centered,

stick a pin through the middle of the hinge to hold it in

position. Wipe away excess epoxy with a tissue.

❏ ❏ 8. Remove the pins if you’ve used any. Adjust the

aileron so there is a small gap–just enough to see light

through or to slip a piece of paper through–between the

aileron and the wing.

❏ ❏ 9. Apply six drops of thin CA to the top and bottom of

each hinge. Do not use CA accelerator. After the CA has

fully hardened, test the hinges by pulling on the aileron.

❏ ❏ 10. Use a sharp #11 blade to cut the covering from the

wing for the aileron servo mount. Also cut a hole for the

aileron servo wire.

Refer to this photo for the following four steps.

❏ ❏ 11. Glue the servo mount to the wing. Drill 1/16" [1.6mm]

holes through the servo mount for the servo screws. Add a

few drops of thin CA to the holes and allow to fully harden.

Mount the aileron servo using the screws that came with the

servo.

❏ ❏ 12. Thread a 4-40 nylon torque rod horn onto both

aileron torque rods until the top of the horn is even with the

top of the torque rod.

❏ ❏ 13. Make a two-arm servo arm by cutting two arms off

a four-arm servo arm. Enlarge the holes in the arm with a

Hobbico® Servo Horn Drill (or a #48 or 5/64" [2mm] drill bit)

so the pushrods will fit.

❏ ❏ 14.Connect the servo to the torque rod horns with pushrods

made from two 6" [150mm] wire pushrods, clevises, silicone

TEMPORARY PIN

TO KEEP HINGE

CENTERED

AWAY FROM THE SLOT

CUT THE COVERING

10
retainers and Faslinks. After bending the pushrods for the

Faslinks, be certain to leave 1/16" [1.6mm] of wire

protruding from the Faslink as shown in the sketch. Connect

the pushrods.

Finish up the landing gear, then proceed to the fuselage.

The same as before, both gears may be assembled at the

same time, or separately.

❏ ❏ 15. Insert the landing gear wire into the wheel pant and

mount the wheel using a 5/32" [4mm] wheel collar with a set

screw on both sides of the wheel. Mount the pant to the gear

with a nylon strap and two #2 x 3/8" [9.5mm] screws (drill

1/16" [1.6mm] holes through the wheel pants for the #2

screws). Use a small drop of thread lock on the set screws.

Hint: File a flat spot on the landing gear wire for the outer

wheel collar.

❏ ❏ 16. Use a straightedge and a hobby knife to cut a slit

in the covering down the middle of the groove in the landing

gear rail. If you have a trim iron, iron the covering down

inside the groove.

❏ ❏ 17. Use a hobby knife to bevel the edge of the hole in

the landing gear rail to accommodate the radius in the bend

in the landing gear wire.

❏ ❏ 18. Mount the landing gear to the wing with two nylon

straps and four #2 x 1/2" [13mm] screws (drill 1/16" [1.6mm]

holes for the screws).

❏ 1. Cut the covering from the grooves in both elevators for

the elevator joiner wire. Test fit the joiner wire in the

elevators. If necessary, “tweak” the joiner wire so both

elevators are even with each other (so both elevators have

the same “up” and “down”).

❏ 2. The same as was done for the wing and ailerons, cut

the covering from the hinge slots in the stab and elevators

and the fin and rudder. Drill 3/32" [2.4mm] holes through the

middle of the slots (as shown on page 9).

❏ 3. Cut nine 3/4" x 1" [19mm x 25mm] CA hinges from the

CA hinge strip. Temporarily join the elevators to the stab and

the fin to the rudder with the hinges.

Mount the Stab & Fin

BUILD THE FUSELAGE

11
❏ 4. Cut the covering from the slots on the side of the fuse

for the stab. Cut a slit in the covering in the center of the slot

in the top of the fuse for the fin. Note the “flaps” of the

covering that will be ironed to the fin later. Remove the small

balsa spacer block.

❏ 5. Taking accurate measurements, locate the center of

the stab on the trailing edge. Stick a T-pin through the center

of the stab 1/8" [3mm] from the trailing edge. Slide the stab

into the fuse and center the T-pin over the aft end of the

fuse. Push the T-pin into the fuse to hold the trailing edge of

the stab in position.

❏ 6. Cut the covering from the holes in the top and bottom

of the wing for the wing bolts, then mount the wing to the

fuse with two 1/4-20 nylon bolts.

❏ 7. Remove the elevators from the stab. Support the

model with a small stand or cardboard box. Stand five to ten

feet behind the model and view the stab and wing. If the stab

and wing align with each other, proceed to the next step. If

the stab and wing do not align, place a weight on the “high”

side of the stab to bring it into alignment (a weight may be

required on the opposite wing to hold the model on your

stand). If much weight is required, remove the stab and

sand the slot in the fuse where the stab fits until it aligns with

the wing.

❏ 8. Stick a pin into the top of the fuse centered in the

middle stringer over the firewall. Tie a small loop in one end

of a 42" [1070mm] piece of non-elastic string (such as K & S

#801 Kevlar thread; K+SR4575). Slip the loop in the string

over the T-pin.

❏ 9. Fold a piece of masking tape over the other end of the

string and draw an arrow on it. Slide the tape along the

string and align the arrow with one end of the stab as shown

in the photo. Swing the string over to the same position on

the other end of the stab. Pivot the stab about the T-pin and

slide the tape along the string until the arrow aligns with

both sides.

❏ 10. Use a fine-point felt-tip pen such as a Top Flite Panel

Line Pen (TOPQ2510) to mark the outline of the fuse onto

the top and bottom of the stab.

❏ 11. Remove the stab from the fuse. Use a sharp #11

hobby knife or follow the Expert Tip that follows to cut the

covering from the stab along the lines you marked. Use care

to cut only into the covering and not into the wood. Cutting

into the balsa will weaken the structure.

12
❏ 12. Temporarily reposition the stab into the fuse. Fit the fin

into the fuse. Mark the trailing edge of the fin at the end of

the top of the fuse. Note that the “flaps” of covering have

been folded outward.

❏ 13. Remove the fin from the fuse and cut the covering

from the fin the same way you did the stab.

❏ 14. Apply 30-minute epoxy to all joining surfaces of the

fin and stab. Slide the stab into position. Wipe away residual

epoxy with a tissue dampened with alcohol. If the stab

required a weight on one side or the other to align it with the

wing, position the weight. Use the pin and string to confirm

stab alignment. Insert the fin and wipe away excess epoxy.

Use a 90° triangle to check that the fin is vertical. If necessary,

use masking tape to pull the tip of the fin to one side or other

of the stab until it is vertical. Use a trim iron to iron the fuse

covering to the both sides of the fin before the epoxy

hardens. As you proceed, use a tissue dampened with

alcohol to clean the tip of the iron. Do not disturb the model

until the epoxy has fully hardened.

❏ 1. Remove the wing from the fuselage. Test fit the nylon

tail gear bearing with the tail gear wire into the slot in the

Join the Elevators & Rudder

How to cut covering from balsa

To avoid cutting into the balsa, use a soldering iron

instead of a hobby knife to cut the covering from the stab.

The tip of the soldering iron doesn’t have to be sharp, but

a fine tip does work best. Allow the iron to heat fully. Use

a straightedge to guide the soldering iron at a rate that will

just melt the covering and not burn into the wood. The

hotter the soldering iron, the faster it must travel to melt a

fine cut. Peel off the covering.

13
rear of the fuse. If necessary, enlarge the slot with a small

razor saw.

❏ 2. Use a hobby knife or a 5/32" [4mm] brass tube sharpened

on the end to cut a groove in the leading edge of the rudder

to accommodate the nylon tail gear bearing. Drill a 1/8"

[3.2mm] hole into the rudder for the “arm” portion of the tail

gear wire.

❏ 3. Temporarily join both elevators to the stab with the

elevator joiner wire. Cut a half-round notch in the leading

edge of the rudder to accommodate the joiner wire. Test fit

the rudder to the fin and tail gear wire with three hinges.

Make adjustments where necessary. (For clarity, the

elevators are not present in the photo.)

❏ 4. Remove the rudder, elevators and tail gear bearing

from the fuse. Take the elevator joiner wire out of the

elevators. Roughen the joiner wire with coarse sandpaper

so glue will adhere. Carefully apply a small dab of petroleum

jelly to the top and bottom of the tail gear bearing where the

tail gear wire goes through to keep glue from entering.

❏ 5. Apply 30-minute epoxy to the joiner wire and to the

groove and in the holes in the elevators for the joiner wire.

Insert the joiner wire into the elevators (if you’ve had to

make any adjustments to the joiner wire to align the

elevators, be certain you’ve installed the joiner wire

correctly). Wipe away excess epoxy with a tissue dampened

with alcohol and immediately proceed to the next step.

❏ 6. Apply 30-minute epoxy inside the slot in the fuselage

for the tail gear bearing and to the hinge of the tail gear

bearing. Install the tail gear bearing and wipe away excess

epoxy. Fit the elevators to the stab with the hinges.

❏ 7. Apply epoxy in the hole in the rudder for the tail gear

wire. Also apply epoxy to the bare balsa in the notch for the

elevator joiner and to the groove for the tail gear bearing.

Wipe away residual epoxy. Fit the rudder to the fuse and tail

gear wire with the hinges.

❏ 8. Permanently join the elevators and rudder with six

drops of thin CA on both sides of all the hinges.

Refer to this photo for the following three steps.

❏ 1. Mount the engine mount to the firewall with four 6-32

x 3/4" [19mm] socket-head cap screws (SHCS), #6 lock

washers and #6 flat washers, but do not fully tighten the

bolts. Place the engine on the mount. If necessary, trim the

fuselage where required to accommodate the needle valve.

❏ 2. Adjust the mount to fit the engine and place the back

plate of the spinner on the engine. Center the engine and

mount in the fuse, then tighten the screws to hold the mount

to the firewall. Position the engine to provide the desired

clearance between the back plate of the spinner and the

front of the fuselage–approximately 1/8" [3mm] is adequate.

Note: If your engine is too short to allow the drive washer to

extend 1/8" in front of the plywood spinner ring on the front

Mount the Engine

14
of the fuselage, use the pattern on page 23 to make an

engine mount spacer from 1/4" plywood (if 1/4" plywood is

not available, two spacers could be made from 1/8"

plywood). 6-32 x 1" screws (not included) will be required for

mounting the engine mount. Coat the spacer with fuelproof

paint or 30-minute epoxy. Mount the engine mount to the

firewall with the engine mount spacer in between.

❏ 3. Holding the engine in position, use a Great Planes

Dead Center Engine Mount Hole Locator (GPMR8130) or

another method to mark the engine mount holes on the

engine mount.

❏ 4. Remove the engine from the mount. Drill #43 (or 3/32"

[2.4mm]) holes through the mount at the marks, then tap 

4-40 threads into the holes (this is most easily done if the

mount is removed from the fuselage). Mount the engine to

the mount with four 4-40 x 3/4" [19mm] socket head cap

screws and #4 flat washers and lock washers.

❏ 5. Mount the spinner, prop and muffler to the engine.

Make adjustments where necessary.

❏ 1. Assemble the stopper and tubes as shown in the photo,

then insert them into the tank. Tighten the screw to expand

the stopper, thus sealing the tank. Be certain the fuel line

weight (clunk) at the end of the fuel line inside the tank does

not contact the rear of the tank. Otherwise, the line may

become stuck above the fuel level and discontinue fuel flow.

Remember (or use a felt-tip pen to mark) which tube is the

fuel pick-up tube and which tube is the vent (that will be

connected to the pressure fitting on the muffler).

❏ 2. Install the tank in the fuse with the neck of the tank

inserted into the hole in the firewall. Make a fuel tank brace

from the 1/4" x 3/4" x 8" [6 x 19 x 200mm] balsa stick by

cutting it to the correct length to fit between the fuselage

sides at the back of the tank. The width of the brace may

vary from kit to kit, but the approximate length should be 3-

7/16" [87mm] (but start by cutting the stick slightly long, then

trimming to fit). Notch the corners of the brace as shown to

accommodate the plywood fuse doublers inside the fuse.

❏ 3. Test fit the fuel tank brace behind the tank. Trim to fit

as necessary. When satisfied with the fit of the brace, push

it tight against the back of the tank, then glue the brace into

position with thin or medium CA. After the CA hardens

secure the back of the tank to the brace with a dab of RTV

silicone. If removal of the tank is ever necessary, the brace

may simply be broken free.

❏ 1. Determine how you will route the throttle pushrod and

where it will exit the firewall. There is already a 3/16"

[4.8mm] hole in the firewall for the pushrod that will align

with the carburetor arm on most two-stroke engines, but if it

doesn’t align with the engine you are using, drill another

hole in a suitable location–be certain not to drill into the fuel

tank! As can be seen in the photo of one of the prototypes

using an O.S. .52 four-stroke, a hole was drilled through the

firewall above the fuel tank in alignment with the carb arm.

(In the four-stroke setup shown, due to the short distance

between the carburetor and the firewall, a screw-lock connector

(not included) was used on the carb.)

Hookup the Controls

FINAL ASSEMBLY

Install the Fuel Tank

15
❏ 2. Use coarse sandpaper to roughen the 3/16" x 12" [4.8

x 300mm] guide tube so glue will adhere to it, then guide it

through the hole in the firewall for the throttle pushrod.

❏ 3. Thread a nylon clevis twenty full turns onto a 17-1/2"

[445mm] threaded pushrod wire. Slip a silicone retainer over

the clevis. Insert the pushrod into the throttle guide tube.

Bend the pushrod as necessary, then connect the clevis to

the carb arm on the engine.

❏ 4. Screw a nylon clevis twenty full turns onto the end of

a 36" [910mm] wire pushrod. Slip a silicone retainer over the

clevis, then connect the clevis to the second-from-the-outer

hole of a nylon control horn. Cut 10" [250mm] from the other

end of the pushrod. Prepare another pushrod the same way.

❏ 5. Slide the pushrods through the guide tubes. Position

the control horn coming out of the right side of the fuselage

on the elevator and position the control horn coming out of

the left side of the fuselage on the rudder as shown in the

photo. The holes in the horns should be over the hinge gap.

If necessary, small bends may be made in the pushrods to

get the horns to rest on the control surfaces.

❏ 6. Drill 3/32" [2.4mm] holes through the elevator and

rudder for mounting the control horns with 2-56 x 1/2"

[13mm] screws, then mount the control horns using the

screws and the nylon backing plates on the other side.

Now that all the pushrods are installed, the servos can be

mounted...

Refer to this photo to mount the servos.

❏ 7. Place the servos in the servo tray. Cut off the extra arms

to make one-arm servo arms. Enlarge the holes in only the

elevator and rudder servos with a Hobbico Servo Horn Drill

(or a #48 or 5/64" [2mm] drill bit). Fit the servo arms on the

servos as shown in the photo.

❏ 8. If the guide tubes are too close to the servos, trim the

tubes as necessary.

❏ 9. Holding the elevator and rudder centered, mark the

elevator and rudder pushrods with a felt-tip pen where they

cross the holes in the servo arms. Use pliers to make a 90-

degree bend at the marks. Temporarily fit a nylon Faslink to

each pushrod, then cut the wire with 1/16" [1.5mm]

protruding from the Faslink.

❏ 10. Connect the elevator and rudder pushrods to the servo

arms with the Faslinks.

CUT OFF

UNUSED ARMS

ENLARGE TO

5/64"

CORRECT INCORRECT

HINGE LINE

16
❏ 11. Connect a screw-lock connector to the throttle servo

arm using a nylon retainer. Cut the throttle guide tube and

pushrod wire to the correct length, then bend the wire as

necessary so it will align with the screw-lock connector on

the servo arm. Make a guide tube support by drilling a

3/16" [4.8mm] hole through a piece of balsa leftover from

the fuel tank brace, then position the support as shown.

Connect the throttle pushrod wire to the servo, then glue the

guide tube support and the guide tube into position.

❏ 12. Drill 1/16" [1.6mm] holes through the servo tray for

the servo mounting screws. Add a drop of thin CA to the

holes and allow to harden (it is best to take the servos out

of the tray while doing this to avoid inadvertently gluing the

servos to the tray). Reposition the servos and mount them

to the tray with the screws that came with the servos.

❏ 13. Mount the battery pack, receiver and on/off switch (be

certain to mount the switch on the side of the fuse opposite

the engine exhaust). The switch was mounted to a Great

Planes Switch and Charge Jack which allows access to the

battery charging cord from outside the model for quick field

charging and battery monitoring. You could wait until

balancing the model (see page 19) to determine the location

of these items (to minimize or eliminate the requirement for

additional ballast to get the model to balance), but the model

shown in this manual required no tail weight with the

components mounted where shown. After connecting the

servo, battery and switch wires, wrap both the battery pack

and receiver in 1/4" or 1/2" [6mm or 13mm] R/C foam rubber

to protect them from vibration. Hold them in position with a

balsa stick glued to the fuselage sides. Note: If you have

difficulty installing the battery pack where indicated, remove

the servos and install the battery from the cutout where the

servos go. A 500 mAh flat pack was used in this model.

❏ 14. Glue the piece of guide tube leftover from the throttle

to the inside of the fuselage to keep the antenna away from

the servos and pushrods. Make a strain relief from one of

the cut-off servo arms and install it on the antenna. Route

the receiver antenna through the tube and out of the

fuselage. On the model shown in the manual the antenna

was routed out the bottom of the fuselage through a small

piece of tubing, then connected to a hook fashioned from

another leftover servo arm which was connected to a rubber

band and a wire hook (made from a T-pin) inserted into the

bottom of the fuse.

❏ 15. Mount the tail wheel to the tail gear wire using a 3/32"

[2.4mm] wheel collar and the set screw with a small drop of

thread locking compound on the threads.

Refer to this photo while finishing the cockpit and

gluing in the pilot.

❏ 1. Paint the inside of the cockpit black, or other color of

your choice. After the paint is fully dry, cut out, then apply

the instrument panel decal.

❏ 2. Use curved-tip scissors to trim the canopy 1/4" [6mm]

outside the molded-in cutline. True the edges by sanding

with medium-grit sandpaper, then remove the “fuzz” from

the edges by sanding with 400-grit sandpaper. Wash the

canopy in soapy water, then rinse.

❏ 3. If installing a pilot (don’t cut corners now–go all the

way!), select a 1/6-scale pilot such as a William’s Brother’s

#180 Racing pilot (WBRQ2480) or a #184 Sportsman pilot

(WBRQ2484). Assemble the pilot, then place it in the

cockpit and position the canopy to see if the pilot fits. If

necessary, trim the pilot to fit under the canopy.

Finish the Cockpit

17
❏ 4. Paint the pilot. Acrylic paints found at craft stores are

recommended as they usually have a satin finish and wash

up with water.

❏ 5. Securely glue the pilot into position.

❏ 6. Glue the canopy into position with R/C-56 Canopy

Glue (JOZR5007), clear RTV silicone or CA. If using CA,

first use a fine-point ballpoint pen to draw the outline of the

canopy onto the covering. Use a hobby knife to trim a 1/16"

[2mm] strip of covering just inside the canopy outline, or use

a T-pin to poke several holes through the covering into the

balsa. Remove the ink line with a tissue dampened with

alcohol. Glue the canopy into position using CA sparingly.

Otherwise, it will “fog” the canopy as it hardens.

❏ 7. Apply 1/4" [6mm] striping tape around the edges of the

canopy as shown.

❏ 8. Since the right side of the fuselage gets coated with

much oil from the engine exhaust, it would be a good idea

to apply white or clear RTV silicone around the edges of the

canopy where it contacts the fuselage. If the gap between

the canopy and the fuselage is not thoroughly sealed, over

time, this residue may loosen the glue joint between the

canopy and fuse and eventually seep into the cockpit.

❏ 1. Look for areas of bare balsa in the engine compartment

that may not have been coated with epoxy. If there are any,

coat them with fuelproof paint or 30-minute epoxy. This can

be done with an epoxy brush, or a piece of a paper towel.

❏ 2. Coat the bare wood on the front of the middle of the

wing and the inside of the radio compartment near the

edges of the covering with fuelproof paint or epoxy. Only a

thin coating is all that is required–just to keep exhaust

residue or cleaners from soaking into the wood.

1. Use scissors or a sharp hobby knife to trim the decals

from the sheet.

2. Determine the location of the decals using the photos on

the kit box cover as a guide.

3. Be certain the model is clean and free from oily

fingerprints and dust. Prepare a container such as a dishpan

or a small bucket with a mixture of liquid dish soap and

warm water–about one teaspoon of soap per gallon of

water. Submerse the decal in the solution and peel off the

paper backing.

4. Position the decal on the model where desired. Holding

the decal, use a paper towel to wipe most of the water away.

5. Use a piece of soft balsa or something similar to

squeegee remaining water from under the decal. Apply the

rest of the decals the same way. This “soap and water”

technique allows for accurate placement of the decal and

eliminates air bubbles.

At this stage the model should be in ready-to-fly condition

with all of the systems installed including the engine, landing

gear, propeller and spinner and the radio system. The fuel

tank should be empty.

❏ 1. If using a Great Planes C.G. Machine to balance the

model, read the note following this step, then proceed to

step 2. If you do not have a Great Planes C.G. Machine, use

a felt-tip pen or 1/16" to 1/8" [1.5 to 3mm] tape to accurately

mark the C.G. on the top of the wing 3-1/8" [79mm] from the

leading edge of the wing next to both sides of the fuselage.

More than any other factor, the C.G. (center of gravity,

also referred to as the balance point) can have the

greatest effect on how a model flies, and may determine

whether or not your first flight will be successful. If you

value this model and wish to enjoy it for many flights, DO

NOT OVERLOOK THIS IMPORTANT PROCEDURE. A

model that is not properly balanced will be unstable and

possibly unflyable.

Balance the Model (C.G.)

GET THE MODEL READY TO FLY

Apply the Decals

Fuelproof the Model

18
❏ 2. Mount the wing to the fuselage. If using a C.G. Machine,

adjust the rulers to measure 3-1/8" [79mm], then place the

model on the machine. If not using a C.G. Machine, lift the

model at the balance point marked on top of both sides of

the wing using the tip of the middle finger on both hands.

❏ 3. If the nose drops the model is nose-heavy and will

require weight on the tail to balance. If the tail drops

however, the model is tail heavy and the model will require

weight on the nose to balance. If possible, mount the battery

pack and receiver in a location that will minimize or

eliminate any additional ballast required. If additional weight

is required, nose weight may be easily added by using a

“spinner weight” (GPMQ4645 for the 1 oz. [29g] weight, or

GPMQ4646 for the 2 oz. [57g] weight). In many cases,

though, Great Planes (GPMQ4485) “stick-on” lead weight is

suitable. A good place to add stick-on lead to the nose is to

the firewall. If tail weight is required (as most likely will be the

case), it may be temporarily attached to the side of the fuse

(opposite the engine exhaust) under the stab. After test

flying and confirming the amount of weight required, the

bottom of the fuse may be cut open and the weight

permanently glued inside.

Note: Do not rely upon the adhesive on the back of the lead

weight to permanently hold it in place. Over time, fuel and

exhaust residue may soften the adhesive and cause the

weight to fall off. Use RTV silicone or epoxy to permanently

hold the weight in place.

❏ 4. IMPORTANT: If you found it necessary to add any

weight, recheck the C.G. after the weight has been installed.

❏ 1. With the wing level, lift the model by the engine

propeller shaft and the bottom of the fuse under the trailing

edge of the fin. Do this several times.

❏ 2. If one wing always drops when lifting the model, it

means that side is heavy. Balance the airplane by adding

weight to the other wing tip. An airplane that has been

laterally balanced will track better in loops and other

maneuvers.

❏ 1. Turn on the transmitter and receiver and center the

trims. If necessary, remove the servo arms from the servos

and reposition them so they are centered. Reinstall the

screws that hold on the servo arms.

❏ 2. With the transmitter and receiver still on, check all the

control surfaces to see if they are centered. If necessary,

adjust the clevises on the pushrods to center the control

surfaces.

❏ 3. Make certain that the controls respond in the correct

direction as shown in the diagram. If necessary, use the

4-CHANNEL

TRANSMITTER

4-CHANNEL

TRANSMITTER

4-CHANNEL

TRANSMITTER

4-CHANNEL RADIO SET-UP

(STANDARD MODE 2)

TRANSMITTER

4-CHANNEL

ELEVATOR MOVES UP

RIGHT AILERON MOVES UP

LEFT AILERON MOVES DOWN

RUDDER MOVES RIGHT

CARBURETOR WIDE OPEN

Check the Control Directions

Balance the Model Laterally

This is where the model should balance for the first

flights. Later, you may wish to experiment by shifting the

C.G. up to 7/16" [11mm] forward or 7/16" [11mm] back to

change the flying characteristics. Moving the C.G. forward

will increase stability, but will decrease maneuverability.

Conversely, moving the C.G.aft will increase maneuverability,

but will decrease stability. In any case, as long as the

model is balanced within the recommended range it

will not display any bad tendencies. Do not at any time

balance the model outside the recommended range.

19
servo reversing in the transmitter to make the controls

respond correctly.

Use a Great Planes AccuThrow (or a ruler) to accurately

measure and set the control throw of each control surface

as indicated in the chart that follows. If your radio does not

have dual rates, we recommend setting the throws between

the high and low rate settings.

Note: The throws are measured at the widest part of the

elevators and rudder.

No matter if you fly at an AMA sanctioned R/C club site or if

you fly somewhere on your own, you should always have

your name, address, telephone number and AMA number

on or inside your model. It is required at all AMA R/C club flying

sites and AMA sanctioned flying events. Fill out the identification

tag on page 23 and place it on or inside your model.

Follow the battery charging instructions that came with your

radio control system to charge the batteries. You should

always charge your transmitter and receiver batteries the

night before you go flying, and at other times as recommended

by the radio manufacturer.

Note: Checking the condition of your receiver battery pack

is highly recommended. All battery packs, whether it’s a

trusty pack taken out of another model, or a new battery

pack, should be cycled, noting the discharge capacity.

Oftentimes, a weak battery pack can be identified (and a

valuable model saved!) by comparing its actual capacity to

its rated capacity.Refer to the instructions and recommendations

that come with your cycler. If you don’t own a battery cycler,

perhaps you can have a friend cycle your pack and note the

capacity for you. We recommend the Hobbico Accu-CycleTM

Plus (HCAP0270).

Carefully balance your propeller and spare propellers before

flying. An unbalanced prop can be the single most

significant cause of vibration that can damage the model.

Not only will engine mounting screws and bolts loosen,

possibly with disastrous effect, but vibration may also

damage the radio receiver and battery. Vibration can also

cause fuel to foam, which will, in turn, cause the engine to

run hot or quit.

We use a Top Flite Precision Magnetic Prop Balancer (TOPQ5700)

in the workshop and keep a Great Planes Fingertip Prop

Balancer (GPMQ5000) in our flight box.

If the engine is new, follow the engine manufacturer’s

instructions to break-in the engine. After break-in, confirm

Ground Check

Balance the Propellers

Charge the Batteries

Identify Your Model

PREFLIGHT

IMPORTANT: The Super Sportster 40 MK II ARF has

been extensively flown and tested to arrive at the throws

at which it flies best. Flying your model at these throws

will provide the greatest chance for successful first flights.

If, after you have become accustomed to the way the

Super Sportster 40 MK II ARF flies, you would like to

change the throws to suit your taste, that is fine. However,

too much control throw could make the model difficult to

control, so remember, “more is not always better.”

These are the recommend control surface throws:

High Rate Low Rate

ELEVATOR: 1/2" [13mm] up 5/16" [8mm] up

1/2" [13mm] down 5/16" [8mm] down

RUDDER: 1-1/8" [29mm] right 3/4" [19mm] right

1-1/8" [29mm] left 3/4" [19mm] left

AILERONS: 1/2" [13mm] up 3/16" [5mm] up

1/2" [13mm] down 3/16" [5mm] down

Set the Control Throws

20
that the engine idles reliably, transitions smoothly and rapidly

to full power and maintains full power–indefinitely. After you

run the engine on the model, inspect the model closely to

make sure all screws remained tight, the hinges are secure,

the prop is secure and all pushrods and connectors are secure.

Ground check the operational range of your radio before the

first flight of the day. With the transmitter antenna collapsed

and the receiver and transmitter on, you should be able to

walk at least 100 feet away from the model and still have

control. Have an assistant stand by your model and, while

you work the controls, tell you what the control surfaces are

doing. Repeat this test with the engine running at various

speeds with an assistant holding the model, using hand

signals to show you what is happening. If the control

surfaces do not respond correctly, do not fly! Find and

correct the problem first. Look for loose servo connections

or broken wires, corroded wires on old servo connectors,

poor solder joints in your battery pack or a defective cell, or

a damaged receiver crystal from a previous crash.

Keep all engine fuel in a safe place, away from high heat,

sparks or flames, as fuel is very flammable. Do not smoke

near the engine or fuel; and remember that engine exhaust

gives off a great deal of deadly carbon monoxide. Therefore

do not run the engine in a closed room or garage.

Get help from an experienced pilot when learning to operate

engines.

Use safety glasses when starting or running engines.

Do not run the engine in an area of loose gravel or sand; the

propeller may throw such material in your face or eyes.

Keep your face and body as well as all spectators away from

the plane of rotation of the propeller as you start and run

the engine.

Keep these items away from the prop: loose clothing, shirt

sleeves, ties, scarfs, long hair or loose objects such as

pencils or screwdrivers that may fall out of shirt or jacket

pockets into the prop.

Use a “chicken stick” or electric starter to start the engine.

Do not use your fingers to flip the propeller. Make certain the

glow plug clip or connector is secure so that it will not pop

off or otherwise get into the running propeller.

Make all engine adjustments from behind the rotating

propeller.

The engine gets hot! Do not touch it during or right after

operation. Make sure fuel lines are in good condition so fuel

will not leak onto a hot engine, causing a fire.

To stop a glow engine, cut off the fuel supply by closing off

the fuel line or following the engine manufacturer’s

recommendations. Do not use hands, fingers or any other

body part to try to stop the engine. To stop a gasoline

powered engine, an on/off switch should be connected to

the engine coil. Do not throw anything into the propeller of a

running engine.

Read and abide by the following Academy of Model

Aeronautics Official Safety Code:

GENERAL

1. I will not fly my model aircraft in sanctioned events, air

shows, or model flying demonstrations until it has been

proven to be airworthy by having been previously

successfully flight tested.

2. I will not fly my model aircraft higher than approximately

400 feet within 3 miles of an airport without notifying the

airport operator. I will give right of way to, and avoid flying in

the proximity of full-scale aircraft. Where necessary an

observer shall be used to supervise flying to avoid having

models fly in the proximity of full-scale aircraft.

3. Where established, I will abide by the safety rules for

the flying site I use, and I will not willfully and deliberately fly

my models in a careless, reckless and/or dangerous manner.

7. I will not fly my model unless it is identified with my

name and address or AMA number, on or in the model.

9. I will not operate models with pyrotechnics (any device

that explodes, burns, or propels a projectile of any kind).

RADIO CONTROL

1. I will have completed a successful radio equipment ground

check before the first flight of a new or repaired model.

2. I will not fly my model aircraft in the presence of

spectators until I become a qualified flier, unless assisted by

an experienced helper.

3. I will perform my initial turn after takeoff away from the

pit or spectator areas, and I will not thereafter fly over pit or

spectator areas, unless beyond my control.

4. I will operate my model using only radio control

frequencies currently allowed by the Federal Communications

Commission.

AMA SAFETY CODE (excerpt)

Failure to follow these safety precautions may result

in severe injury to yourself and others.

ENGINE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS

Range Check

21
❏ 1. Fuelproof all areas of bare wood that may be exposed

to fuel or exhaust residue.

❏ 2. Check the C.G. according to the measurements provided

in the manual.

❏ 3. Be certain the battery and receiver are securely mounted.

Simply stuffing them into place with foam rubber is not

sufficient.

❏ 4. Extend the receiver antenna and make sure it has a

strain relief inside the fuselage to keep tension off the solder

joint inside the receiver.

❏ 5.Balance the model laterally as explained in the instructions.

❏ 6. Use threadlocking compound to secure fasteners such

as wheel collars, carburetor arm screw, screw lock connector

on the throttle pushrod, etc.

❏ 7. Add a drop of oil to the axles so the wheels will turn freely.

❏ 8. Make sure all hinges are securely glued in place.

❏ 9. “Harden” holes for wood screws with thin CA where

appropriate (servo mounting screws, landing gear straps, etc.).

❏ 10. Confirm that all controls operate in the correct direction

and the throws are set up according to the manual.

❏ 11. Make sure there are silicone retainers on all the clevises

and that all servo arms are secured to the servos with the screws.

❏ 12. Secure the connection between the battery pack and

the on/off switch with tape, heat shrink tubing or special

clips suitable for that purpose.

❏ 13. Make sure servo wires do not interfere with other systems

(servo arms, pushrods, etc.).

❏ 14. Make sure the fuel lines are connected and are not kinked.

❏ 15. Balance the propeller (and spare propellers).

❏ 16. Tighten the propeller nut and spinner.

❏ 17. Place your name, address, AMA number and telephone

number on or inside the model.

❏ 18. Cycle the receiver battery pack (if necessary) and make

sure it is fully charged.

❏ 19. If you wish to photograph the model, do so before the

first flight.

❏ 20. Range check the radio when you get to the flying field.

The Super Sportster 40 MK II ARF is a great-flying model

that flies smoothly and predictably. It does not, however,

possess the self-recovery characteristics of a primary R/C

trainer and should be flown only by experienced R/C pilots.

If you’re not yet confident in your flight skills with a low-wing

model, have an experienced modeler by your side who can

provide assistance or take over the controls if necessary.

Tell him to remind you to throttle back once the plane gets

to a comfortable altitude. While full throttle is usually

desirable for takeoff, throttling back a bit for the first flight

isn’t a bad idea to make things happen slower, giving you

more time to react.

Before taking off, see how the model handles on the ground

by doing a few practice runs at low speeds on the runway.

Hold “up” elevator to push the tail down and keep the tail

wheel on the ground. If the rudder is centered but the model

does not roll straight down the runway, adjust the steering

by using pliers to bend the tail gear wire as necessary (this

is less critical on grass fields). After making ground handling

adjustments and getting used to how the model handles,

return to the pits, shut off the engine and top off the fuel.

Check all fasteners and control linkages to be certain they

are secure.

When ready, place the model on the runway facing into the

wind. Hold a bit of up elevator to keep the tail on the ground

to maintain tail wheel steering, then gradually advance the

throttle. As the model gains speed decrease up elevator,

allowing the tail to come off the ground. Be ready to apply

right rudder to counteract engine torque. Gain as much

speed as the runway and flying site will practically allow

before applying up elevator and lifting the model into the air.

Be smooth on the elevator stick, allowing the model to

establish a gentle climb to a safe altitude before turning into

the traffic pattern established at the field you are using.

Takeoff

CAUTION (THIS APPLIES TO ALL R/C AIRPLANES): If,

while flying, you notice any unusual sounds, such as a

low-pitched “buzz,” this may indicate control surface

flutter. Because flutter can quickly destroy components of

your airplane, any time you detect flutter you must

immediately cut the throttle and land the airplane! Check

all servo grommets for deterioration (this may indicate

which surface fluttered), and make sure all pushrod

linkages are secure and free of play. If the control surface

fluttered once, it probably will flutter again under similar

circumstances unless you can eliminate the free-play or

flexing in the linkages. Here are some things which can

cause flutter: Excessive hinge gap; Not mounting control

horns solidly; Poor fit of clevis pin in horn; Side-play of

pushrod in guide tube caused by tight bends; Poor fit of 

Z-bend in servo arm; Insufficient glue used when gluing in

the elevator joiner wire; Excessive play or backlash in

servo gears; and Insecure servo mounting.

FLYING

CHECK LIST

During the last few moments of preparation your mind

may be elsewhere anticipating the excitement of the first

flight. Because of this, you may be more likely to overlook

certain checks and procedures that should be performed

before the model is flown. To help avoid this, a check list

is provided to make sure these important areas are not

overlooked. Many are covered in the instruction manual,

so where appropriate, refer to the manual for complete

instructions. Be sure to check the items off they are

completed (that’s why it’s called a check list!).

22
Take it easy with the Super Sportster 40 MK II ARF for the

first few flights, gradually getting acquainted with it as you

gain confidence. Adjust the trims to maintain straight and

level flight. After flying around for a while, and while still at a

safe altitude with plenty of fuel, practice slow flight and

execute practice landing approaches by reducing the

throttle to see how the model handles at slower speeds. Add

power to see how it climbs as well. Continue to fly around,

executing various maneuvers and making mental notes (or

having your assistant write them down) of what trim or C.G.

changes may be required to fine tune the model so it flies

the way you like. Mind your fuel level, but use this first flight

to become familiar with your model before landing.

To initiate a landing approach, lower the throttle while on the

downwind leg. Allow the nose of the model to pitch

downward to gradually bleed off altitude. Continue to lose

altitude, but maintain airspeed by keeping the nose down as

you turn onto the crosswind leg. Make the final turn toward

the runway (into the wind) keeping the nose down to

maintain airspeed and control. Add power as necessary to

maintain airspeed and make it back to the runway. Level the

attitude when the model reaches the runway. If you are

going to overshoot the runway, smoothly advance the

throttle (always ready on the right rudder to counteract

torque) and climb out to make another attempt. When ready

to make a landing flare and the model is a foot or so off the

deck, smoothly increase up elevator until gently touching

down. Once the model is on the runway and has lost flying

speed, apply up elevator to hold the tail on the ground.

One final note about flying the Super Sportster 40 MK II

ARF (or any model). Have a goal or flight plan in mind for

every flight. This can be learning a new maneuver(s),

improving a maneuver(s) you already know, or learning how

the model behaves in certain conditions (such as on high or

low rates). This is not necessarily to improve flight skills

(though it is never a bad idea!), but more importantly so you

do not surprise yourself by impulsively attempting a

maneuver and suddenly finding that you’ve run out of time,

altitude or airspeed. Every maneuver should be deliberate,

not impulsive. For example, if planning a loop, check your

altitude, mind the wind direction (anticipating rudder

corrections that will be required to maintain heading),

remember to throttle back at the top, and make certain you

are on the desired rates (high/low rates). A flight plan greatly

reduces the chances of crashing just because of poor

planning and impulsive moves. Remember to think.

Have a ball! But always stay in control and fly in a safe

manner.

GOOD LUCK AND GREAT FLYING!

Make photocopies of these items if you do not wish to

cut the from the manual.

1/4" Ply Engine Mount Spacer Pattern

Landing

Flight

23
BUILDING NOTES

Kit Purchased Date: _______________________

Where Purchased:_________________________

Date Construction Started: __________________

Date Construction Finished: _________________

Finished Weight: __________________________

Date of First Flight: ________________________

FLIGHT LOG