THE “WHY WE’RE WORRIED ABOUT WILDFIRE” EQUATION

LIVING IN A NATURAL FIRE ENVIRONMENT

The Prairie Grassland Region is

an area where fire has always

played a prominent role in the

natural environment. Long before

towns and subdivisions were

established across the Great Plains,

fires were a natural result of the

frequent summer thunderstorms

that traveled across the mountains

and plains. However, decades of

fire suppression have resulted in a

large accumulation of fuels that

have the potential to create intense

wildfires.

Within this natural fire

environment, there are individual

houses, subdivisions and entire

communities. Many homes,

however, would be unable to

survive an intense wildfire. Since it

is not a question of “if” wildfires

will occur but “when” they will

occur, the likelihood of human life

and property loss is great and

growing.

Our ability to live more safely in

this fire environment greatly

depends upon our use of “pre-fire

activities.” Pre-fire activities are

actions taken before a wildfire

occurs which improve the

survivability of people and homes.

They include proper vegetation

management around the home or

farm (known as survivable space),

use of fire resistant building

materials, appropriate subdivision

design, and other measures.

Research clearly demonstrates that

pre-fire activities save lives and

property.

The Great Plains fire prevention

cooperators, which includes many

federal, state and local fire

management agencies, are using a

program called "FIREWISE".

FIREWISE was created to encourage

the widespread use of pre-fire

activities such as those listed in this

and many other publications

available to you.

For more information

concerning the "FIREWISE"

program or wildland fire safety

information, contact local land

management agencies, local fire

departments or visit the websites

listed on the back page of this

publication.

“LIVING WITH FIRE”

PRE-FIRE ACTIVITIES

The pre-fire activities implemented by this homeowner

included a green and well maintained landscape, reduction

of wildland vegetation around the perimeter of the property,

a fire resistant roof, and a good access road with a

turnaround area. The charred surroundings of the home

show that these pre-fire activities effectively protected it

when wildfire hit.

Fire is a natural

part of our

environment.

Our Great

Plains were

burning long

before there was

a Bismarck,

Many homes

are built and

maintained in

this fire

environment

without regard

to wildfire.

With more

people using

our wildlands,

there is a greater

chance of fire

starts.

Today’s

wildfires can

burn intensely

and be difficult

to control.

All this adds up

to potential for:

• Greater loss of 

life

• Increased 

property losses

• More damage 

to natural 

resources

• More money 

spent on 

firefighting

US Fish and Wildlife Service • Bureau of Land Management • National Park Service • Bureau of Indian Affairs • USDA Forest Service

Great Bend,

Scottsbluff,

Aberdeen or

Billings.

*Fire behavior estimates prepared by Charles Frohme and Shane Del Grosso USFW S

Grasslands: hay, wheat, ungrazed pasture

Shelter belts: closed canopy mostlyelm (like) 

trees, large pines, li�le grass 

Wetlands: cattails,marshes,late season corn

Shelter belts: closed canopy mostly juniper and 

pines, li�le grass or elm (like) trees {early summer} 

Shelter belts: open canopy with mostly grass, hay, 

cattails, elm, pines, juniper understory with large 

elm (like) trees and a few short junipers 

Shelter belts: closed canopy mostly juniper and 

pines, li�le grass or elm (like)trees {late summer} 

FLAME

LENGTH

Less than 4 feet 

4 to 8 feet 

8 to 11 feet 

More than 

11 feet 

EXAMPLES OF LOCAL FIRE BEHAVIOR IN GREAT PLAINS FUEL TYPES

Presented below are several types of vegetation common to our region with computer generated estimates of how they would burn

under certain conditions. These predictions assume a wind speed of 20 mph, flat terrain, typical moisture contents of living and dead 

vegetation for summertime, and normal August weather for the Great Plains area.

EFFECTIVE FIRE SUPPRESSION TACTICS

Fireline constructed with hand tools, such as

shovels and axes can be effective at the front of

the fire.

Bulldozers and other heavy equipment will be

needed to construct an effective fireline. Where

bulldozers are not available, fire engines with

hoses and water will be required to “knock

down” the flames before the fire crews with

hand tools can be effective, or fire crews must

construct a fireline at a considerable distance

from the fire.

Direct fire suppression efforts will be ineffective. Retreat to existing roads, streams and 

other barriers. Burn out vegetation between the 

fireline and the advancing fire front to eliminate 

wildfire fuels.

Airtankers with fire suppressing retardant or

helicopters with water are required to reduce

the fire’s rate of spread before fireline construction by crews or bulldozers can be effective.

When wildfire flame lengths exceed 11 feed, direct firefighting

efforts are ineffective. Under these conditions firefighters use

roads, streams and other barriers to control the wildfire.

THE LIMITATIONS OF WILDLAND FIREFIGHTING

A lot of people assume that when wildfire starts, it will be

quickly controlled and extinquished. This is an accurate assumption 97% of the time. Firefighters have the ability, equipment and 

technology to effectively suppress most wildfires. But 3% of the 

time, wildfires burn so intensely that there is li�le firefighters 

can do. Presented at right are firefighter tactics as the relate to 

wildfire flame length. Compare this to the flame lengths shown

in “Examples Of Local Fire Behavior in Great Plains Fuel Types.”
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS ABOUT SURVIVABLE SPACE

In 2000, the term “survivable space” was

coined to describe vegetation management

practices aimed at reducing the wildfire threat

to homes. This article responds to some of the

commonly asked questions about survivable

space.

WHAT IS SURVIVABLE SPACE?

Survivable space is the area between a

house and an oncoming wildfire where the

vegetation has been modified to reduce the

wildfire threat and to provide an opportunity

for firefighters to effectively defend the house.

homeowner’s properly maintained yard.

WHAT IS THE RELATIONSHIP

BETWEEN VEGETATION AND WILDFIRE

THREAT?

Many people do not view the plants

growing on their property as a threat. But in

terms of wildfire, the vegetation adjacent to

their homes can have considerable influence

upon their survivability. All vegetation,

including plants native to the area as well as

ornamental plants, is potential wildfire fuel. If

vegetation is properly modified and

maintained, a wildfire can be slowed, the

length of flames shortened, and the amount of

to defend the home against an oncoming

wildfire.

THE FIRE DEPARTMENT IS SUPPOSED

TO PROTECT MY HOUSE, SO WHY

BOTHER WITH SURVIVABLE SPACE?

Some individuals incorrectly assume that a

fire engine will be parked in their driveway

and firefighters will be actively defending their

homes if a wildfire approaches. During a major

wildfire, it is unlikely there will be enough fire

fighting resources available to defend every

home. In these instances, firefighters will likely

select homes they can most safely and

effectively protect. Even with adequate

resources, some wildfires may be so intense

that there may be little firefighters can do to

prevent a house from burning. The key is to

reduce fire intensity as the wildfire nears the

house. This can be accomplished by reducing

the amount of flammable vegetation

surrounding a home. Consequently, the most

important person in protecting a house from

wildfire is not a firefighter, but the property

owner. It is the action taken by the owner

before the wildfire occurs (such as proper

landscaping) that is most critical.

DOES SURVIVABLE SPACE REQUIRE A

LOT OF BARE GROUND IN MY

LANDSCAPE?

No. Unfortunately, many people have this

misconception. While bare ground is certainly

effective in reducing the wildfire threat, it may

be unnecessary and unacceptable due to

appearance, soil erosion, and other reasons.

Many homes have attractive, well vegetated

landscapes that also serve as effective

survivable space.

DOES CREATING A SURVIVABLE SPACE

REQUIRE ANY SPECIAL SKILLS OR

EQUIPMENT?

No. For the most part, creating a survivable

space employs routine gardening and

pruning, mowing, weeding, plant removal,

appropriate plant selection, and irrigation.

Equipment needed includes common tools

such as: chain saw, pruning saw, pruning

shear, lopper, weed-eater, shovel and rake. A

chipper, compost bin, or a large rented trash

dumpster may be useful in disposing of

unwanted plant material.

HOW BIG IS AN EFFECTIVE

SURVIVABLE SPACE?

Survivable space size is not the same for

everyone, but varies by slope and type of

wildland vegetation growing near the house.

See the article entitled “Creating An Effective

Survivable Space” for specific information.

DOES SURVIVABLE SPACE MAKE A

DIFFERENCE?

Yes. Investigations of homes threatened by

wildfire indicate that houses with an effective

survivable space are much more likely to

survive a wildfire. Furthermore, homes with

both an effective survivable space and a

nonflammable roof (composition shingles, tile,

survive a wildfire than those without

survivable space and flammable roofs (wood

shakes or shingles). Survivable space gives

firefighters the opportunity to effectively and

safely defend the home.

DOES HAVING A SURVIVABLE SPACE

GUARANTEE MY HOUSE WILL SURVIVE

A WILDFIRE?

No. Under extreme conditions, almost any

house can burn. But having a survivable space

will significantly improve the odds of your

home surviving a wildfire.

WHY DOESN’T EVERYONE LIVING IN A

HIGH WILDFIRE HAZARD AREA

CREATE A SURVIVABLE SPACE?

The specific reasons for not creating a

survivable space are varied. Some individuals

believe “it won’t happen to me.” Others think

the costs (time, money, effort, loss of privacy,

etc.) outweigh the benefits. Some fail to

implement survivable space practices simply

because of lack of knowledge or

misconceptions.

More and more homes are being built in high

fire hazard environments.

HOW DO I CHANGE THE VEGETATION ON MY

PROPERTY OR REDUCE THE WILDFIRE THREAT?

The objective of survivable space is to reduce the wildfire

threat to a home by changing the characteristics of the

adjacent vegetation.

Survivable space practices include:

• increasing the moisture content of vegetation.

• decreasing the amount of flammable vegetation.

• shortening plant height.

• altering the arrangement of plants.

This is accomplished through the “Three Rs of Survivable

Space.” The article “Creating an Effective Survivable

Space” provides detailed information about changing

vegetation characteristics of survivable space.

THE THREE Rs OF SURVIVABLE SPACE

Removal This technique involves the elimination of entire plants, particularly

trees and shrubs, from the site. Examples of removal are cutting down a

dead tree or cutting out a flammable shrub.

Reduction The removal of plant parts, such as branches or leaves, constitutes

reduction. Examples of reduction are pruning dead wood from a shrub,

removing low tree branches, and mowing dried grass.

Replacement Replacement is substituting hazardous vegetation with less flammable

plants. Removal of a dense stand of flammable shrubs and planting an

irrigated, well maintained flower bed is an example of replacement.

heat reduced, all of which assist firefighters

Sometimes a survivable space is simply a

metal, etc.) are many times more likely to

landscape maintenance practices, such as:
CREATING AN EFFECTIVE SURVIVABLE SPACE*

...A Step-by-Step Guide

Are you worried about the wildfire threat to your home, but aren’t sure where to get started in making

your home survivable? Follow these six steps to an effective survivable space...

STEP ONE: HOW BIG IS AN

EFFECTIVE SURVIVABLE SPACE?

The size of the survivable space is usually

expressed as a distance extending outward

from the sides of the house. This distance

varies by the type of wildland vegetation

growing near the house and the steepness of

the terrain.

On the “Recommended Survivable Space

Distance” chart presented below, find the

vegetation types and percent slope which best

describes the area where your house is located.

Then find the recommended survivable space

distance for your situation.

For example, if your property is

surrounded by wildland grasses such as

cheatgrass, and is located on flat land, your

recommended survivable space distance

would extend 30 feet from the sides of the

house. If your house is on a 25% slope and the

adjacent wildland vegetation is dense tall

bush, your recommended survivable space

distance would be 200 feet.

If the recommended distance goes beyond

your property boundaries, contact the adjacent

property owner and work cooperatively on

creating a survivable space. The effectiveness

of survivable space increases when multiple

property owners work together. The local

assessor’s office can provide assistance if the

owners of adjacent properties are unknown.

Do not work on someone else’s property

without their permission.

Temporarily mark the recommended

distance with flagging or strips of cloth tied to

shrubs, trees, or stakes around home. This will

be your survivable space area.

STEP TWO: IS THERE ANY DEAD

VEGETATION WITHIN THE

RECOMMENDED SURVIVABLE SPACE

AREA?

Dead vegetation includes dead trees and

shrubs, dead branches lying on the ground or

still attached to living plants, dried grass,

flowers and weeds, dropped leaves and

needles, and firewood stacks. In most

instances, dead vegetation should be removed

from the recommended survivable space area.

A description of the types of dead vegetation

you’re likely to encounter and the

recommended actions are presented below on

the next page.

VEGETATION TYPE

SURVIVABLE SPACE

RECOMMENDED DISTANCES - STEEPNESS OF SLOPE

Wildland grasses (such as cheatgrass), weeds, and

widely scattered shrubs with grass understory.

Includes shrub dominant areas such as sagebrush.

Includes forested areas. If substantial grass or shrub

understory is present, use those values shown above.

30feet 100feet 100feet

100feet 200feet 200feet

30feet 100feet 200feet

1) Find the percent slope which best describes your property.

2) Find the type of vegetation which best describes the wildland plants growing on or near your property.

3) Locate the number in feet corresponding to your slope and vegetation. This is your recommended survivable space distance.

* Please note the recommendations presented in this article are suggestions made by local firefighters experienced in protecting homes from wildfires. They are not requirements nor do they take precedence over local ordinances.
STEP THREE: IS THERE A

CONTINUOUS DENSE COVER OF

SHRUBS OR TREES WITHIN THE

RECOMMENDED SURVIVABLE SPACE

AREA?

Sometimes wildland plants can occur as an

uninterrupted layer of vegetation as opposed

to being patchy or widely spaced individual

plants. The more continuous and dense the

vegetation, the greater the wildfire threat. If

this situation is present within your survivable

space area, you should “break-it-up” by

providing a separation between plants or small

TYPES OF DEAD VEGETATION AND RECOMMENDED PRACTICE

DEAD FUEL TYPE RECOMMENDED PRACTICE

STANDING DEAD TREE Remove all standing dead trees from within the survivable

space area.

DOWN DEAD TREE Remove all down dead trees within the survivable space

area if they have recently fallen and are not yet embedded

into the ground. Downed trees that are embedded into soil

and which cannot be removed without soil disturbance

should be left in place. Remove all exposed branches from

an embedded downed dead tree.

DEAD SHRUBS Remove all dead shrubs from within the survivable space

area.

DRIED GRASSES AND

WILDFLOWERS

Once grasses and wildflowers have dried out or “cured,”

cut down and remove from the survivable space.

DEAD NEEDLES, LEAVES,

BRANCHES, CONES

(ON THE GROUND)

Reduce thick layers of pine needles to a depth of two

inches. Do not remove all needles. Take care not to disturb

the “duff” layer (dark area at the ground surface where

needles are decomposing) if present. Remove dead leaves,

twigs, cones and branches.

DEAD NEEDLES, LEAVES,

BRANCHES AND TWIGS

(OTHER THAN ON THE GROUND)

Remove all dead leaves, branches, twigs and needles still

attached to living trees and shrubs to height of 15 feet

above ground. Remove all debris that accumulates on the

roof and in rain gutters on a routine basis (at least once

annually).

FIREWOOD AND OTHER

COMBUSTIBLE DEBRIS

Locate firewood and other combustible debris (wood

scraps, grass clippings, leaf piles, etc.) at least 30 feet uphill

from the house.

RECOMMENDED SEPARATION

DISTANCES FOR

TREE AND SHRUB SPACING

For areas with dense brush, shrubs or trees,

the recommended separation distance is

dependent upon shrub height and steepness

of slope. Specific recommendations are

presented below.

For example, if your home is located on a

10% slope and the brush is four feet tall, the

separation distance would be two times the

shrub height or eight feet. The recommended

separation distance can be accomplished by

removing plants or through pruning that

reduces the diameter or height of shrubs

(shorter height means less separation is

needed). For shrubs which readily resprout,

pruning to reduce height may be the best

approach.

Note: Separation distances are measured between canopies

(outermost branches) and not between trunks.

groups of plants. Don’t forget to reduce the

density of shelter belts located within the

survivable area.
RECOMMENDED

SEPARATION DISTANCES 

BETWEEN TREE CANOPIES 

For forested areas, the 

recommended amount of 

separation between tree canopies 

is determined by steepness of 

slope. The specific 

recommendations are presented 

here. Separation distances are 

measured between canopies 

(outermost branches) and not 

between trunks. 

For example, if your house is 

situated on a 30% slope, the 

separation of tree canopies 

within your survivable space 

should be 20 feet. Creating 

separation between tree canopies 

can be accomplished through 

tree removal. 

STEP FOUR: ARE THERE LADDER FUELS 

PRESENT WITHIN THE RECOMMENDED 

SURVIVABLE SPACE AREA? 

Vegetation is o�en present at varying heights, 

similar to the rungs of a ladder. Under these 

conditions, flames from fuels 

burning at ground level, such as a 

thick layer of pine needles, can be 

carried to shrubs, which can ignite 

still higher fuels like tree branches. 

Vegetation that allows a fire to 

move from lower growing plants 

to taller ones is referred to as 

“ladder fuel.” The ladder fuel 

problem can be corrected by 

providing a separation between the 

vegetation layers. 

Within the survivable space 

area, a vertical separation of three 

times the height of the lower fuel 

layer is recommended. 

For example, if a shrub 

growing adjacent to a large pine 

tree is three feet tall, the 

recommended separation distance 

would be nine feet. This could be 

accomplished by removing the 

lower tree branches, reducing the 

height of the shrub, or both. The 

shrub could also be removed. 
STEP FIVE: IS THERE AN AREA AT LEAST

30 FEET WIDE SURROUNDING YOUR HOUSE

THAT IS “LEAN, CLEAN AND GREEN”?

The area immediately adjacent to your house is

particularly important in terms of an effective

survivable space. It is also the area that is usually

landscaped. Within an area extending at least 30 feet

from the house, the vegetation should be kept...

• Lean - small amounts of flammable vegetation,

• Clean - no accumulation of dead vegetation or

other flammable debris, and

• Green - plants are healthy and green during the fire

season.

The “Lean, Clean and Green Zone Checklist” will

help you evaluate the area immediately adjacent to

your house.

STEP SIX: IS THE VEGETATION WITHIN

THE RECOMMENDED SURVIVABLE SPACE

AREA MAINTAINED ON A REGULAR BASIS?

Keeping your survivable space effective is a

continual process. At least annually, review these

survivable space steps and take action accordingly.

An effective survivable space can be quickly

diminished through neglect.

THE LEAN, CLEAN AND GREEN CHECKLIST

Emphasize the use of low growing herbaceous (non-woody) plants that are

kept green during the fire season through irrigation if necessary. Herbaceous

plants include lawn, clover, a variety of ground covers, bedding plants, bulbs,

perennial flowers, and conservation grasses.

Emphasize use of mulches, rock, and noncombustible hard surfaces (concrete

sidewalks, brick patios, and asphalt driveways).

Deciduous ornamental trees and shrubs are acceptable if they are kept green

and free of dead plant material, ladder fuels are removed, and individual

plants or groups of plants are arranged so that adjacent wildland vegetation

cannot convey a fire through them to the structure. Shorter deciduous shrubs

are preferred.

Minimize the use of ornamental coniferous shrubs and trees (such as juniper,

arborvitae, and mugo pine) and tall exotic grasses (such as pampas grass).

Where permitted, most wildland shrubs and trees should be removed from

the zone and replaced with more desirable alternatives (see first box).

Individual specimens or small groups of wildland shrubs and trees can be

retained so long as they are kept healthy and free of dead wood, are pruned

to reduce the amount of fuel and height, and ladder fuels are removed.

For some areas substantial removal of wildland vegetation may not be

allowed. In these instances, wildland vegetation should conform to the

recommendations presented in steps 2 through 4. Please become familiar

with local requirements before removal of wildland vegetation.

Tree limbs within 15 feet of a chimney, encroaching on power lines, or

touching the house should be removed.
FIRESCAPE - FIREWISE

LANDSCAPE DESIGN

“When a wildfire comes through your

neighborhood, could your house survive on its

own?” A dramatic question, but one we need to

consider when living in an environment where

wildfire is a common occurrence. “Firescaping” is

landscape design that reduces house and property

vulnerability to wildfire. The goal is to develop a

landscape with a design and choice of plants that

offers the best fire protection and enhances the

property. The ideal is to surround the house with

things that are less likely to burn. It is imperative

when building homes in wildfire-prone areas that

fire safety be a major factor in landscape design.

Appropriate manipulation of the landscape can

make a significant contribution toward wildfire

survival.

Firescape integrates traditional landscape

functions and a design that reduces the threat from

wildfire. It does not need to look much different

than a traditional design. In addition to meeting a

homeowner’s aesthetic desires and functional needs,

such as entertaining, playing, storage and erosion

control, firescape also includes vegetation

modification techniques, planting for fire safety,

defensible space principles and use of fire safety

zones.

Through proper plant selection, placement and

maintenance, we can diminish the possibility of

ignition, lower fire intensity, and reduce how quickly

survivability. In firescaping, plant selection is

primarily determined by a plant’s ability to reduce

the wildfire threat. Other considerations may be

important, such as appearance, ability to hold the

soil in place, and wildlife habitat value. The

traditional foundation planting of junipers is not a

viable solution in a firescape design. Minimize use of

evergreen shrubs and trees within 30 feet of a

structure, because junipers, other conifers and

broadleaf evergreens contain oils, resins, and waxes

that makes these plants burn with great intensity.

Use ornamental grasses and berries sparingly

because they also can be highly flammable. Choose

“firewise” plants. These are plants with a high

moisture content. They are low growing. Their stems

and leaves are not resinous, oily or waxy. Deciduous

trees are generally more fire resistant than

evergreens because they have a higher moisture

content when in leaf, but a lower fuel volume when

dormant.

Placement and maintenance of trees and shrubs

is as important as actual plant selection. When

planning tree placement in the landscape, remember

their size at maturity. Keep tree limbs at least 15 feet

from chimneys, power lines and structures.

Specimen trees can be used near a structure if

pruned properly and well irrigated.

Firescape design uses driveways, lawns,

walkways, patios, parking areas, areas with

inorganic mulches, and fences constructed of

nonflammable materials such as rock, brick, or

cement to reduce fuel loads and create fuel breaks.

Fuel breaks are a vital component in every firescape

design. Water features, pools, ponds or streams can

be used also as fuel breaks. Areas where wildland

vegetation has been thinned or replaced with less

flammable plants are the traditional fuel break.

Remember, while bare ground is an effective fuel

break, it is not generally recommended as a

firescape element due to aesthetic, soil erosion, and

other concerns. 

A home located on a brushy site above a south

or west facing slope will require more extensive

wildfire safety landscape planning than a house

situation on a flat lot with little vegetation around it.

Boulders and rocks become fire retardant elements

in a design. Whether or not a site can be irrigated

will greatly influence location of hardscape

(concrete, asphalt, wood decks, etc.), plant selection

and placement. Prevailing winds, seasonal weather,

local fire history, and characteristics of native

vegetation surrounding the site are additional

important considerations.

The 30 feet closest to a structure will be the

highest water use area in the firewise landscape.

This is an area where highly flammable fuels are

kept to a minimum and plants are kept green

throughout the fire season. Use well-irrigated

perennials here. Another choice is low growing or

non-woody deciduous plants. Lawn is soothing

visually, and is also practical as a wildfire safety

feature. But extensive areas of turfgrass may not be

right for everyone. Some good alternatives include

clover, groundcovers, and conservation grasses that

are kept green during the fire season through

irrigation. Rock mulches are good choices. Patios,

masonry and rock planters are excellent fuel breaks

and increase wildfire safety. Be creative with

boulders, riprap, dry streambeds and sculptural

inorganic elements. When designing a landscape for

fire safety remember, less is better. Simplify visual

lines and groupings. A firewise landscape lets plants

and garden elements reveal their innate beauty by

leaving space between plants and groups of plants.

In firescaping, the open spaces are more important

than the plants.

Lawn can be an effective landscape feature in a firescape

Firewise Plant Material for the Great Plains

Although there are no plants that will not burn at all, the following is a list of some fire resistive plants

that can be used in landscaping. Landscape maintenance is far more important to fire prevention than the

selection of plant materials. When planning your landscape, use the characteristics of fire resistive plants

along with site characteristics such as slope, aspect, hardiness zone and amount of precipitation to choose

plant material suitable for your site.

TREES common name

Conifers:

Calocedrus decurrens Incense cedar

Thuja plicata Western red cedar

Deciduous:

Acer spp. Maple

Alnus spp. Alder

Catalpa speciosa Northern catapla

Cornus florida Flowering dogwood

Fagus spp. Beech

Fraxinus spp. Ash

Gleditsia tricanthos Honeylocust

Malus spp. Apple

Populus spp. Aspen, cottonwood, poplar

Prunus spp. Cherry

Quercus spp. Oak (white, burr or red)

Robinia pseudoacacia Black locust

Salix spp. Willow

SHRUBS common name

Amelanchier spp. Serviceberry

Atriplex canesecns Four wing saltbrush

Buddelia davidi Butterfly bush

Caryopteris x clandonensis Blue-mist spirea

Cornus sericea Red osier dogwood

Cotoneaster spp. Cotoneaster

Liqustrum spp. Privet

Mahonia spp. Creeping grape holly

Pachistima canbyi Dwarf mountain lover

Philadelphus spp. Mock orange; syringa

Rhamnus fragula Buckthorn

Rhododendron spp. Azaleas, rhododendrons

Ribes spp. Currant

Sheperdia argentea Silver buffaloberry

Symphoricarpos albus Snowberry

Viburnum trilobum Cranberry bush

Yucca spp. Yucca

PERENNIALS common name

Achillea spp. Yarrow

Allium schoenoprasum Chives

Bergenia spp. Bergenia

Brodiaea spp. Lilies

Coreopsis spp. Coreopsis

Erysimum linifolium Wall flower

Eschscholzia spp. California poppy

Fragaria sp. Wild Strawberries

Geranium spp. Geranium

Hemerocallis hybrids Daylillies

Heuchera spp. Coral bells

Iris spp. Iris

Kniphofia uvaria Red hot poker

Lupinus spp. Lupine

Oenotheria spp. Evening primrose

Penstemon spp. Beard tongue

Solidago spp. Goldenrod

Strachys bysantina Lamb’s ear

GROUNDCOVERS common name

Succulents:

Delospema nubigenum Hardiest ice plant

Echeveria spp. Hens & Chicks

Sedum spp. Stone crops

Non-succulents:

Achillea tomentosa Wolly yarrow

Ajuga reptans Carpet bugle

Arctostaphylos uva-ursi Kinnikinnick

Armeria meritima Sea pink; thrift

Cerastium tomentosa Snow in summer

Cotoneaster dammeri Bearberry cotoneaster

Euonymus fortunei Winter creeper

Potentilla tabernaemontaniiSpring cinquefoil

Senecio cineraria Dusty miller

Thymus praecox articus Mother of thyme

Verbenia bipinnatifida Verbenia

a fire spreads, thereby increasing a home’s
1. CONSTRUCTION

• Build your home away from ridge tops,

canyons and areas between high points on a

ridge.

• Build your home at least 30 feet from your

property line.

• Use fire resistant building materials.

• Enclose the underside of balconies and aboveground decks with fire resistant materials.

• Limit the size and number of windows in

your home that face large areas of vegetation.

• Install only double-paned or triple-paned

windows.

• Consider sprinkler systems within the house.

They may prevent a house fire from

spreading into the wildlands.

2. ROOF

• Remove dead branches hanging over your

roof.

• Remove any branches within 15 feet of your

chimney.

• Clean all dead leaves and needles from your

roof and gutters. Install a roof that meets the

fire resistance classification of “Class C” or

better. Local jurisdictions may require a

higher fire resistance rating. Check your

county regulations or with your local fire

department.

• Cover your chimney outlet and stovepipe

with a nonflammable screen of one-half inch

or smaller screen.

3. LANDSCAPE

• See “Creating an Effective Survivable Space”

and “Firescape - Firewise Landscape

Design.”

4. YARD

• Stack woodpiles at least 30 feet from all structures and clean away flammable vegetation

within 10 feet of woodpiles.

• Located LPG tanks (butane and propane) at

least 30 feet from any structure and surround

them with 10 feet of clearance.

• Remove all stacks of construction materials,

pine needles, leaves, and other debris from

your yard.

• Contact your local fire department to see if

open burning is allowed in your area; if so,

obtain a permit before burning debris.

• Where burn barrels are allowed, clean

flammable materials at least 10 feet around

the barrel; cover the opening with a nonflammable screen with screen no longer than onequarter inch.

5. EMERGENCY WATER SUPPLY

• Maintain an emergency water supply that

meets fire department standards through one

of the following:

- a community water hydrant system

- a cooperative emergency storage tank with

neighbors

- a minimum storage supply of 2,500 gallons on

your property.

• Clearly mark all emergency water sources

and notify your local fire department of

their existence.

• Create easy firefighter access to your

closest emergency water source.

• If your water comes from a well, consider

an emergency generator to operate the

pump during a power failure.

6. ACCESS

• Identify at least two exit routes from your

neighborhood.

• Construct roads that allow two way

traffic.

• Design road width, grade and curves to

allow access for large emergency

vehicles.

• Construct driveways to allow large

emergency equipment to reach your

house.

• Design bridges to carry heavy emergency

vehicles, including bulldozers carried on

large trucks.

• Post clear road signs to show traffic

restrictions such as dead-end roads, and

weight and height limitations.

• Make sure dead-end roads and long

driveways have turnaround areas wide

enough for emergency vehicles. 

• Construct turnouts along one-way roads.

• Clean flammable vegetation at least 10

feet from roads and five feet from driveways.

• Cut back overhanging tree branches above

roads.

• Construct fire barriers such as greenbelts,

parks, golf courses and athletic fields.

• Make sure that your street is named or

numbered and a sign is visibly posted at

each street intersection.

• Make sure that your street name and

house number are not duplicated

elsewhere in the county.

• Post your house address at the beginning

of your driveway or on your house if it is

easily visible from the road.

7. OUTSIDE

• Designate an

emergency meeting

place outside your

home.

• Practice emergency

exit drills regularly.

• Make sure that

electric service

lines, fuse boxes

and circuit breaker

panels are installed

and maintained as

prescribed by code.

• Contact qualified

individuals to

perform electrical

maintenance and

repairs.

OTHER CONSIDERATIONS IN

MAKING YOUR HOME SURVIVABLE

How a house is designed, where it is built, materials used in its construction and landscape, and access to the home all influence survivability during wildfire.

These recommendations will make a home much easier to defend and will improve its chances of surviving a wildfire.

THE WOOD SHAKE AND

SHINGLE ROOF HAZARD

A house can be threatened by a wildfire

in three ways: direct exposure from

flames, radiated heat and airborne

firebrands. Of these, firebrands account

for the majority of homes burned by

wildfire. The most vulnerable part of a

house to firebrands is the roof.

Because of its angle, the roof can catch

and trap firebrands. If the roof is

constructed of combustible materials,

such as untreated wood shakes and

shingles, the house is in jeopardy of

igniting and burning.

Not only are combustible roofing

materials a hazard to the structure on

which they are installed, but also to other

houses in the vicinity. Burning wood

shakes, for example, can be lifted from

the burning roof, carried blocks away and

land in receptive fuel beds such as other

combustible roofs.

Unfortunately for homeowners with

existing combustible roofs, there are no

long-term reliable measures available to

reduce roof vulnerability to wildfire other

than re-roofing with fire resistant

materials.
CHECK OUT THESE

WEBSITES FOR FURTHER

INFORMATION:

FIREWISE COMMUNITIES

www.firewise.org/communities/usa

US DEPARTMENT OF THE INTERIOR

BUREAU OF LAND MANAGEMENT

www.fire.blm.gov

BUREAU OF INDIAN AFFAIRS

www.doi.gov/bia

FISH & WILDLIFE SERVICE

www.fws.gov/fire

NATIONAL PARK SERVICE

www.nps.gov/fire

NATIONAL ASSOCIATION 

OF STATE FORESTERS

www.stateforesters.org

USDAFOREST SERVICE

www.fs.fed.us

NATIONAL FIRE PROTECTION

ASSOCIATION

www.nfpa.gov

US FIRE ADMINISTRATION

www.usfa.fema.gov

FEDERAL EMERGENCY

MANAGEMENT AGENCY

www.fema.gov

Special thank you to the

University of Nevada

in Reno for their

contribution of content in

this publication.

WHEN WILDFIRE APPROACHES

• Evacuate, if possible, all family members not

essential to protecting the house. Evacuate

pets as well.

• Contact a friend or relative and relay your

plans.

• Make sure family members are aware of a

prearranged meeting place.

• Tune into a local radio station and listen for

instructions.

• Place vehicles in the garage, have them

pointing out, and roll up the windows.

• Close the garage door, but leave it unlocked.

If applicable, disconnect the electric garage

door opener so that the door can be opened

manually.

• Place combustible patio furniture in the

house or garage.

• Shut off propane at the tank or natural gas at

the meter.

• Wear only cotton or wool clothes. Proper

attire includes long pants, long sleeved shirt

or jacket, and boots. Carry gloves, a

handkerchief to cover face, water to drink,

and goggles.

• Close all exterior vents.

• Prop a ladder against the house so

firefighters have easy access to the roof.

• Make sure that all garden hoses are

connected to faucets and attach a nozzle set

on “spray.”

• Soak rags, towels or small rugs with water to

use in beating out embers or small fires.

• Inside, fill bathtubs, sinks and other

containers with water. Outside, do the same

with garbage cans and buckets. Remember

that the water heater and toilet tank are

available sources of water.

• Close all exterior doors and windows.

• Close all interior doors.

• Open the fireplace damper, but place the

screen over the hearth to prevent sparks and

embers from entering the house.

• Leave a light on in each room.

• Remove lightweight and/or non-fire

resistant curtains and other combustible

materials from around the windows.

• If available, close fire resistant drapes,

shutters, or venetian blinds. Attach precut

plywood panels to the exterior of windows

and glass doors.

• Turn off all pilot lights.

• Move overstuffed furniture (e.g. couches,

easy chairs, etc.) to the center of the room.

• Keep wood shake or shingle roofs moist by

spraying water. Do not waste water.

Consider placing a lawn sprinkler on the

roof if water pressure is adequate. Do not

turn on until burning embers begin to fall on

the roof.

• Continually check the roof and attic for

embers, smoke or fire.

Should homes be threatened by wildfire, occupants may be advised to evacuate to protect them

from life-threatening situations. Homeowners, however, do have the right to stay on their

properties if they so desire and so long as their activities do not hinder fire fighting efforts. If

occupants are not contacted in time to evacuate or if owners decide to stay with their homes,

these suggestions will help them protect their properties and families.

If a fire should occur within the house, contact the fire department immediately.

Continue to inspect your house and property for embers and smoke.

Most importantly, STAY CALM!

OUTDOOR BURNING SAFETY TIPS

HOUSEHOLD TRASH

• If you must burn trash, don’t pile on it

ground. It will not burn completely and

will easily be blown around. Local fire

officials can recommend a safe receptable

for burning trash. It should be placed in

a cleared area, away from overhead

branches and wires.

• Check the weather. Don’t burn on dry,

windy days.

AGRICULTURAL

• Be sure you are fully prepared before

burning off your fields or garden spot.

• If possible, a fire line should be plowed

around the area to be burned. Large

fields should be separated into small

plots for burning one at a time.

• Be sure to stay with your fire until it is

out.

• Before doing any burning, please contact

your local fire officials.

Remember, a little extra

care takes only a few

minutes of your time and

it could prevent a wildfire. • Check the weather. Don’t burn on dry,

windy days.