DEVICE

Revised January 1985

----.. "

.~ <:::;;,;,j

U.S. Department of Commerce

National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration

National Marine Fisheries Service

Southeast Fisheries Center

Mississippi Laboratories

Pascagoula Facility

P.O. Drawer 1207

Pascagoula, MS 39567-0112
Construction and Installation Instructions

for the Trawling Efficiency Device

Charles W. Taylor, Anthony F. Serra

John F. Mitchell, John W. Watson
United States. The gear, called the Trawling Efficiency Device

or TED, has been shown to increase trawling efficiency by

decreasing bycatch and improving water flow through the

trawl. The TED consists of a 36- by 42- by 30-in. frame con·

structed of 31B-in. (1.0.) galvanized pipe or SIB-in. (0.0.)

fiberglass rod. Inside the frame are deflector bars slanted at

approximately 450spaced 3 to 6 inches apart with a 30- by

30-in. door at the top of the deflector bars. Objects that cannot pass through the grid bars are forced toward the "trap

door." The door opens on hinges, allows the object to pass

out of the trawl, and then closes as the object is released.

Smaller objects (fish, shrimp, etc.) pass through a webbing

funnel which accelerates the water flow and carries them

through the slanted bars and into the bag. Deflector bar spacing can be adjusted between 3 and 6 inches to include

bycatch such as cannonball jellyfish, horseshoe crabs,

sponges, etc. The difference in behavioral responses between

shrimp and finfish in the accelerated water flow generated by

the funnel is used to separate finfish by employing a smaller

finfish deflector grid and openings and leading panels to guide

them out of the trawl. Extensive testing has shown that TED

effectively reduces the bycatch of cannonball jellyfish,

sponges, horseshoe crabs, turtles, sharks, rays and finfish,

and as a result improves the efficiency of shrimp trawls by

allowing longer towing times with reduced labor in sorting

shrimp from the bycatch. Finfish reduction rates exceeding

50% at night and 60% during daytime fishing have been consistently achieved with TED. This pamphlet provides instructionsfor the construction of both a steel and fiberglass design

TED and instructions on the installation of the TED into a

trawl.

1
NOTE: The device frame can be constructed from either steel

pipe or fiberglass rod. The instructions for both

materials are listed below.

A. Construction of device frame from steel pipe.

List of Materials:

1. Twenty-nine (29) ft of 3/8-in. (I.D.) galvanized T&C pipe.

2. Thirty-three (33) ft of 1/4-in. (I.D.) galvanized T&C pipe.

3. Six (6) ft of 3/8-in. reinforcement rod.

4. Twenty-four (24) ft 1/8-in. 7 x 19 SS cable.

5. Twelve 1/8-in. nicopress oval sleeves.

6. Six 1/8-in. nicopress stop sleeves.

7. Six 3/16-in. galvanized shackles.

8. One (1) ft of 1/4-in. galvanized chain.

2
1. Cut two (2) 9-ft sections of 3/8-in. galvanized pipe.

2. Mark each of the 9-ft pipe sections in the center, 15 in.

on each side of the center, and 51 in. on each side of

the center.

3. Bend each of the 9-ft sections of pipe beginning at the

15-in. marks forming two hoops that are 30 in. in height

and 6 in. at the center of the radius formed by the

bends (see figure 1).

4. Make an additional 90° bend at the 51-in. marks and

cut off the excess pipe to form 1-1/2-in. nipples for

hinge brackets. The completed hoops should be 30 in.

high and 45 in. wide.

5. Cut two (2) links of 1/4 in. chain in half.

6. Mark the center of the sides on each frame and 1/2 in.

from the corners on each frame (see figure 1).

7. At these marks weld the half links to the pipe. All half

links should be welded to the same side of the pipe

and as close to perpendicular as possible.

3
30"

15" CENTER 15"

36"

45"

V2 of 1/4" CHAIN LINK

WELDED TO FRAME

FIGURE 1

CONSTRUCTION OF END FRAMES

4
2. Cut seven (7) 48in. lengths of 1/4in. galvanized pipe.

3. Cut two (2) 31-1/2-in. lengths of 3/8-in. reinforcement

rod.

4. On a flat surface layout a rectangle of the pre-cut pipe

with the sides being 48 in. of 1/4-in. galvanized pipe

and the top and bottom being 30 in. of 3/8-in.

galvanized pipe (see figure 2).

5. Weld the corners of the rectangle at 90° angles leaving

the end openings of the 3/8-in. pipe unobstructed.

Insert the 31-1/2-in. of 3/8-in. re-rod sections into the

3/8-in. pipe at the top and bottom of the grid frame. Do

not weld the re-rod sections.

6. Mark the top and bottom sections of the grid at 5-in.

intervals from the ends of each pipe. A total of five

marks should be made.

7. Center the five remaining 48-in. lengths of 1/4-in. pipe

on the marks and weld at 90° angles to form the complete grid (see figure 2).

8. Cut two (2) links of 1/4-in. chain in half.

9. At one end of the deflector grid weld one of the half

links at each corner (see figure 2). Turn the deflector

grid over and repeat the procedure at the opposite end

of the deflector.

5
A

TOP & BOTTOM BARS

3/8" GALV. PIPE

GRID BARS

1/4" GALV. PIPE

/Cz

1-------------1

48"

-

C2

V

\ /

A

B

HINGE-A 31 V2" LENGTH OF 3/8"

REINFORCEMENT ROD INSERTED INSIDE

BOTH TOP AND BOTTOM BARS

%"-REINFORCEMENT ROD OVERHANG

POSITION OF WELDED HALF LINKS

POSITION OF WELDED HALF LINKS ON

OPPOSITE SIDE OF DEFLECTOR

FIGURE 2

CONSTRUCTION OF DEFLECTOR GRID

6
g

Assembly

1. Connect the grid deflector to the end frames by

inserting the 3/4 in. of exposed re-rod at each end of

the grid deflector into the 1-1/2-in. nipples on the end

frames. The frames and deflector grid should be connected so that when in the upright position, the half

links are positioned as in figure 4.

2. Weld the re-rod to the end frames at the points indicated in figure 4. The reinforcement rod should not be

welded to the deflector grid and should rotate freely

inside the top and bottom bars of the grid.

3. Brace cable assembly -

a. Cut six (6) 48-in. lengths of 118-in. stainless steel

cable.

b. Brace the device frame in an upright position using

three (3) 36-in. sections of 3/8-in. galvanized pipe or

other material between the front and back hoop.

Secure the braces in place using twine.

c. Compress a 1-in. eye into one end of each of the

48-in. lengths of cable using oval nicopress sleeves.

d. Shackle six (6) cables to the welded half links on

one hoop.

e. Slide the nicopress stop sleeve onto each cable.

f. Attach the free end of each brace cable to the

welded half links on the opposite hoop with a nicopress oval sleeve. Pull out all the slack, then crimp

the oval sleeve approximately 1 in. from the welded

link. Cut off excess cable.

7
/' I-- FRONT AN D BACK BARS

I 3/8" GALV. PIPE J...I::!:==========~ L-- .•..•,

30"

FIGURE 3. CONSTRUCTION OF DOOR FRAME

1/8" STAINLESS STEEL CABLE

WITH 1/8" NICOPRESS SLEEVES

3/8" RE-ROD IS INSERTED

INTO FRAME END AND

WELDED AT POINT "A"

FIGURE 4. COMPLETED STEEL FRAME

8
y () g()

2. Sixteen (16) 3/8-in. galvanized 45° fittings.

3. Twelve (12) 3/8-in. galvanized T fittings.

4. Eight (8) 3/8-in. galvanized couplings.

5. Four (4) 3/8-in. galvanized unions.

6. Four (4) 3/8-in. galvanized 90° fittings.

7. Eight (8) 318-in. x 4-in. galvanized nipples.

8. Six (6) ft of 3/32-in. stainless steel rod (3-ft sections).

9. Twenty-four (24) ft of 1/8-in. 7 x 19 stainless steel cable.

10. Twelve (12) 1/8-in. nicopress oval sleeves.

11. Six (6) 1/8-in. nicopress stop sleeves.

12. Eight (8) 3/16-in. galvanized shackles.

13. Two (2) 3-1/2-oz kits of 3M No. 2216 epoxy glue.

14. One (1) 5/8-in. drill bit (measure rod diameter for exact

bit size).

15. One (1) 3/32-in. drill bit.

16. Medium sand paper.

9
2. Cut two (2) 30-1/4-in. sections of 5/8-in. fiberglass rod.

3. Cut four (4) 23-1/2-in. sections of 5/8-in. fiberglass rod.

4. Cut two (2) 30-1/2-in. sections of 5/8-in. fiberglass rod.

5. Cut two (2) 31-1/2-in. sections of 5/8-in. fiberglass rod.

6. Cut two (2) 36-in. sections of 5/8-in. fiberglass rod.

7. Cut six (6) 47-in. sections of 5/8-in. fiberglass rod.

8. Sand one (1) in. of each end of all rods except the

36-in. sections.

9. Drill twelve (12) 45° fittings with 5/8-in. drill bit (one

side only).

10. Drill twelve (12) T fittings completely through long side

and threads only of perpendicular side.

11. Drill eight (8) couplings completely through.

12. Drill out threads of rotating side of union.

13. Drill four (4) 90° fittings (both sides).

14. Weld back (curved side) of 3/16-in. shackles perpendicular to drilled-out 8 couplings.

10
34V2" 34V2" I I I36"

23V2" 23V2" 301/4" 301/4" I I I I

36" V2"

I I

-

FIGURE 5.

CUTTING LAYOUT FOR 5/8" FIBERGLASS ROD

12 FOOT LENGTHS

Corner and Hinge Assembly

(See Figure 6)

1. Weld non-drilled 45° fitting to threaded side of each of

the four (4) unions (center as closely as possible).

2. Weld T fittings to rotating side of each union (line up

holes as closely as possible).

3. Screw 318-in. x 4-in. nipple into each 45° fitting welded

to union.

4. Screw drilled 45° fitting onto open end of each 3/8-in.

x 4-in. nipple (make sure 45° fittings face the same

direction).

5. Screw remaining drilled 45° fittings onto each end of

four (4) 318-in. x 4-in. nipples (make sure 45° fittings

face the same direction).

11
te

3/8" GALVANIZED 3/8" x 4"

"T" FITTING GALVANIZED NIPPLE

ENDS BUTTED

AND WELDED

FIGURE 6. 

CORNER AND HINGE ASSEMBLY 

12 
1. Mix glue according to instructions on box.

2. Slide four (4) T fittings onto each of the two (2)

30-1/4-in. sections of rod.

3. Place a moderate amount of glue into each of the T

fittings welded to the unions.

4. Insert each end of the two (2) 30-1/2-in. rods into the

glued T fittings

5. Slide one (1) coupling onto each 23-1/2-in. section of

fiberglass rod.

6. Place a moderate amount of glue into the 45° fittings

welded to the unions.

7. Insert one end of each 23-1/2-in. rod into the four (4)

glued 45° fittings.

8. Place a moderate amount of glue into one (1) 45°

fitting on the remaining four (4) corner assemblies.

9. Slide four (4) glued 45° fittings onto the end of each

23-1/2-in. rod.

10. Place a moderate amount of glue into each of the

remaining 45° fittings on the corner pieces.

11. Slide two (2) couplings onto each 34-1/2-in. rod.

12. Insert each end of 34-1/2-in. rods into the glued 45°

fittings, completing the two hoops.

13
pgp ppy 

apart (5-1/4-in. centers). 

2. Place a moderate amount of glue into the front hole of 

each T fitting on both hoops.

3. Insert one end of each 47-in. rod into the six (6) T fit- 

tings on one hoop; then insert the opposite end of the

47-in. rod into the corresponding T fittings of the 

second hoop (compression strings may be needed to 

hold grid bars securely into place).

4. Recheck T fitting spacing, and make sure hoops are 

square; then allow the glue to dry. 

Door Assembly 

(See Figure 9) 

1. Place a moderate amount of glue into both ends each

of the four (4) 90° fittings. 

2. Insert both 31-1/2-in. and both 30-1/2-in. fiberglass rods 

into the glued 90° fittings to form a rectangle with 

opposite sides of equal length. Square corners as

closely as possible. Allow to dry. 

14
A 3/8" GALVANIZED "T" FITTING

B 3/8" UNION (WELDED TO A AND C)

C 3/8" GALVANIZED 45° FITTING

D 3/8" GALVANIZED NIPPLE

E 3/8" GALVANIZED COUPLING

F 3/16" SHACKLE (WELDED TO E)

G 1/8" STAINLESS CABLE WITH 1/8" NICOPRESS SLEEVES

FIGURE 7. FITTING ASSEMBLY

15
23V2"

FIGURE 8.

COMPLETED FRAME

16

23V2"
31112"

3/8" GALVANIZED 90" FITTING /

FIGURE 9.

DOOR FRAME ASSEMBLY

17
Fitting Dowel Assembly

1. After glue has dried, drill a 3/32-in. hole into each of

the glued 45° and T fittings as shown in illustration.

2. Insert 3/32-in. stainless steel rod into 3/32-in. holes

flush with opposite side (a hammer may be needed to

tap it in) and cut 1/8 in. above the fitting.

3. With a metal surface underneath (metal plate, another

hammer, etc.), brad the ends of each dowel with a

hammer.

4. Center four (4) couplings on each side of both hoops

in a position facing each other (shackle to shackle) on

the inside of opposite hoops, then drill and dowel

according to previous instructions.

5. Space couplings on top of front hoop and bottom of

back hoop on 30-in. center (15 in. from center of rod).

Make sure the shackles on the back hoop face the

front hoop and vice versa, then drill and dowel each

coupling.

6. Drill and dowel each 90° fitting on door frame.

18
hoop and back hoop. Make sure the brace is against

fiberglass rod on front hoop and back hoop (twine will

be needed to hold the rods in place).

2. Cut the 118-in. stainless steel cable into six (6) 48-in.

lengths.

3. Compress a 1-in. eye into one end of each of the 48-in

long cables using oval nicopress sleeves.

4. Shackle four (4) cables to couplings on one hoop and

shackle two (2) cables to couplings (opposite hinge

assembly) on the second hoop.

5. Slide nicopress stop sleeve onto each cable.

6. Attach the free ends of two (2) side brace cables to

shackles in the opposite hoop with nicopress oval

sleeves, pullout all slack, then crimp oval sleeves

approximately 1 in. from the shackle pins. Cut off

excess cable.

7. Attach free end of top and bottom brace cables to

union hinge with nicopress oval sleeves, take up all

slack, then crimp 1/2 in. from fitting. Cut off excess

cable.

8. Adjust union hinges to a minimum amount of play and

tack weld the union nut to the threaded side (not the

rotating side) of the union.

19
1. Eleven (11) ft of 5/8-in. fiberglass rod.

2. Eight (8) 3/8-in. galvanized 45° fittings.

3. Two (2) 3/8-in. galvanized T fittings.

4. Forty-four (44) ft of 1/16-in. stainless steel cable.

5. Four (4) 1/16-in. nicopress oval sleeves.

6. Three (3) ft of 1/4-in. shock cord.

7. One (1) 3/32-in. x 3-ft stainless steel rod.

8. One (1) 5/8-in. drill bit.

9. One (1) kit of 3M No. 2216 epoxy glue.

10. One (1) 3/32-in. drill bit.

A. Preparation for Frame Construction:

1. Cut two (2) 22-3/4-in. sections of 5/8-in. fiberglass rod.

2. Cut two (2) 15-1/2-in. sections of 5/8-in. fiberglass rod.

3. Cut four (4) 5-3/4-in. sections of 5/8-in. fiberglass rod.

4. Cut one (1) 24-in. section of 5/8-in. fiberglass rod.

5. Drill threads from galvanized 45° fittings with 5/8-in.

drill bit.

6. Drill long side of T fitting completely through and drill

threads from perpendicular hole on T fitting.

20
C

223/4"

A 3/8" GALVANIZED T FITTING

B 3/8" GALVANIZED 45° FITTING

C 1/16" 7x7 STRAND STAINLESS CABLE

CABLE SPACING 1112" APART FROM

INSIDE CENTER "T" FITTING

FIGURE 10.

FINFISH DEFLECTOR ASSEMBLY

21
2. Slide one (1) T fitting onto each 22-3/4-in. section of

fiberglass rod, center and place a moderate amount of

glue into the perpendicular hole of each T fitting.

3. Insert each end of the 24-in. section of fiberglass rod

into glued perpendicular hole of T fitting.

4. Place a moderate amount of glue into each side of 45°

fitting and slide onto one end of 22-3/4-in. section of

rod.

5. Insert a 5-3/4-in. section of rod into the open hole on

glued 45° fitting.

6. Place a moderate amount of glue into each end of a

45° fitting and slide over the opposite end of the

5-3/4-in. rod.

7. Insert the 15-1/2-in. section of fiberglass rod into open

end of glued 45° fitting.

8. Place a moderate amount of glue into a 45° fitting and

slide over the end of the 15-1/2-in. section of fiberglass

rod.

9. Insert a second 5-3/4-in. section of fiberglass rod into

the glued 45° fitting.

10. Place a moderate amount of glue into a 45° fitting and

slide one side over the end of the 5-3/4-in. section of

fiberglass rod; then slide the opposite side over the

end of the 22-3/4-in. section of fiberglass rod, completing one side of the frame.

11. Repeat steps 4 through 11 to complete the second half

of the frame.

22
dicular side of each T fitting.

3. Insert a 3/32-in. stainless steel rod through 3/32-in. hole

(a hammer may be needed to tap it in) flush with

opposite side and cut 1/8 in. above the fitting.

4. With a metal surface underneath (metal plate, another

hammer, etc.) brad the ends of each dowel with a

hammer.

D. Cable Assembly:

1. With a 3/32-in. drill bit, drill holes every 1-1/2 in.

through the top and bottom of the deflector frame

starting 1-1/2 in. from the center brace bar.

2. Cut the 44-ft piece of 1/16-in. cable into two (2) equal

lengths (22 ft).

3. Lace one (1) 22-ft section of cable through each side of

the deflector frame.

4. Crimp the outside end of the cable to the deflector

frame, take up all the slack in the cable and crimp the

inside end of the cable to the deflector frame. Cut off

excess. Repeat for the opposite side.

E. Installation of Finfish Deflector:

1. The deflector is installed in the TED by securing with

two (2) 2-1/2-in. hose clamps to the top of the back

hoop. Space the hose clamps 15 in. apart. (Important:

Leave the hose clamps loose enough for the deflector

to swing back and forth easily.)

23
pp 

spring back into position after loading with a sufficient

amount of bycatch.

FINFISH DEFLECTOR ADJUSTMENT

(1) SHOCK CORD LENGTH 3' (1/4")

(2) SHOCK CORD TI ED 26" DOWN CENTER BAR FROM TOP

21" \

-- FINFISH DEFLECTOR

1/4 " SHOCK CORD 21" LENGTH

24
1. 120 x 120 mesh 1-3/4-in. No. 36 or No. 42

nylon bag webbing

2. 25 x 80 mesh piece of 1-3/4-in. No. 36

nylon webbing

3. 14 ft of 1/4-in. nylon backed shock cord

4. 14 ft of 1/4-in. nylon rope

5. Eight (8) 6 x 8 in. spongex floats

6. 16 ft 3IB-in. polypropylene rope

7. 36 ft 5/8-in. polypropylene rope

8. 1 lb., No. 42 multiprolene twine

1. Cut a hole 25 meshes wide x 23 meshes deep in the

top center of the 120 x 120 1-3/4-in. No. 36 or No. 42

nylon webbing extension, 23 meshes from the front of

the extension. The cut out piece of webbing 22 x 24

meshes is laced to the device door with No. 42 twine

using clove hitches (one mesh every 1-3/8 in.).

2. Lace the 18th row of meshes (from the front of the

extension to the front of the device) using a clove hitch

every 4th mesh.

3. Lace the 25 meshes of the back of the door opening to

the back hoop between the union fittings (using a clove

hitch every 1-3/16 in.). On the same row of meshes,

lace the remainder of the extension meshes to the

back hoop in the same manner as the front.

4. Count 7 meshes forward from the back hoop and cut

evenly 35 meshes from the door opening to the bottom

brace wire. Turn and cut forward 12 meshes parallel to

the bottom brace wire. Repeat for the opposite side

(see Figures 12 & 13).

5. Overlapping 2-1/2 meshes at the cut, lace the side door

opening meshes to the top brace wires using an

overhand knot on every mesh. Repeat for the opposite

side.

25
wire.

8. Attach the end of a 4-ft length of 1/4-in. shock cord to

the first grid bar 8 in. from the top. Beginning with the

7th mesh from the top, lace the opposite end of the

shock cord through the end mesh of the side opening

until the bottom of the extension is reached. Then turn

and lace in and out each mesh in the bottom of the

extension until the back hoop is reached. Pull shock

cord until all the slack is taken up in the side opening

panel and secure it to the back hoop. Repeat for the

opposite side.

9. Crimp the nicopress stop sleeves to the brace wires

9 in. from the back hoop.

10. Attach one end of a 4-ft length of 1/4-in. nylon rope to

the top brace wire at the nicopress stop sleeve. Lace

the opposite end through the end mesh on the outside

panel of the side opening, pull out all slack and secure

on the middle brace wire at nicopress stop sleeve. Continue down end meshes on the outside panel until the

bottom brace wire is reached. Pullout all slack and

secure to the bottom brace wire at the nicopress stop

sleeve. Repeat for the opposite side.

11. Construct a funnel from a 25 x 80-mesh piece of

predippped and stretched 1-3/4-in. nylon webbing by

sewing the webbing together along the 25-mesh edge.

A section of the funnel, 10 bars x 10 meshes x 10 bars,

must be cut out of the bottom back center to allow the

funnel to fit against the grid bars (see Figure 11).

12. The funnel is attached to the device extension on the

second row of the meshes from the front of the extension before the extension is sewn to the trawl body.

26
bars 18 in. from the top back hoop. The shock cord on

the funnel is used to hold the funnel in the correct

position to direct water flow into the trawl bag or cod

end (see Figure 12).

13. Cut a hole 9 meshes x 4 meshes between the middle

and bottom brace wires two (2) meshes ahead of the

front hoop. Lace a 3-ft length of 1/4-in. nylon rope

through the end mesh of the hole and tie the ends of

the rope together. Repeat for the opposite side.

14. Lace an 18-ft section of 5/8-in. polypropylene rope

around the front hoop through previously laced meshes

(every second mesh from center of frame to the top

brace wire on each side). Do not lace between top

brace wires. Repeat for the back hoop.

15. Tie two (2) 6 x 12-in. floats to the front hoop between

the middle and top brace wire with a 4-ft section of

3/8-in. polypropylene rope. Repeat for the opposite side

and back hoop.

16. Attach the door to the device by sewing evenly the

front door opening meshes to the narrowest side of the

door. On the metal TED secure the first four (4) meshes

on the door frame to the top brace wire on each side.

This allows the door to close automatically when the

TED is pulled open into a fishing position. For the

fiberglass TED, only three (3) meshes should be

secured to the top brace wires (using clove hitches).

(NOTE: The door should overlap the back hoop.)

17. Attach the device to the trawl by sewing the device

extension to the trawl with the top center of the device

in line with the top center of the trawl. The trawl cod

end is then sewn to the tail of the device extension.

27
prevent the TED's from contacting each other during

deployment and retrieval. Installation of the TED's into

the twin trawls is the same as that described above

except that the device extension which is sewn around

the TED on the inside net of the twin rig (the net

nearest the vessel), is reduced in length from 120

meshes to 90 meshes. The outside trawl device extension remains 120 meshes in length.

Handling Procedures

1. Setting out the TED - The TED should be set on the

rail of the vessel at a 45° angle and the bag dropped

over the side. After "breaking down" the trawl, the

device should be held at the back allowing the trawl to

pull the device out while steadying it so it does not roll

over. After the device is out in an upright position, the

trawl may be trailed out in the normal manner.

2. Retrieving the TED trawl - The trawl should be

retrieved with the vessel headed into the seas to prevent catch in the bag from being washed into the

device by fOllowing seas. The bag is retrieved and the

catch dumped with the device remaining alongside the

vessel.

28
10M

FIGURE 12.

FUNNEL RIGGING PROCEDURE

25M

K

DEFLECTOR

BAR

t

18"

l

FUNNEL

__ 25M --..-II

(1) 1/4" SHOCK CORD

32" LONG

TOP BACK

DEFLECTOR

BAR

t

18"

!

(1) 1/4" DIA. SHOCK CORD 32" PLUS ENOUGH TO TIE OFF.

(2) SHOCK CORD LACED THROUGH 25 MESHES IN FUNNEL TOP.

(3) SHOCK CORD TIED TO OUTSIDE DEFLECTOR BARS 18" FROM

TOP DEFLECTOR.

(4) FUNNEL SECURED TO SHOCK CORD 6" FROM END.

29
12 M CUT

FIGURE 12. FINFISH SEPARATOR

(CUTTING PROCEDURE)

LACI NG PATTERN

FIGURE 13. COMPLETED FINFISH SEPARATOR

30
TRAWL BODY

~ " END-;--·-

\. ~ TRAWL BODY

FRONT OF DEVICE

EXTENSION 120

MESHES AROUND

FUNNEL ATTACHMENT 2 MESHES FROM

FRONT OF EXTENSION

1

75 MESHES~ !I~I

FIGURE 14. INSTAllATION INSTRUCTIONS

31