Marines make most of life at FOB Edinburgh
 By Cpl. Ryan Rholes , 3rd Marine Aircraft Wing
  
 FOB EDINBURGH, Afghanistan (June 21, 2010) — Life here is austere and  Spartan at best. Howling winds coat everything with a talcum-like dust,  there are few escapes from the searing heat, electricity is scarce, hot  meals are a rarity yet the morale is probably the highest I have seen  in southern Afghanistan. Albeit a rough place to live and nestled in one of the most dangerous  neighborhoods in the country – Edinburgh is a haven for the warriors of  Marine Wing Support Squadron 274. Salaam Bazaar, Musa Qal’eh, and Now  Zad ring the small forward operating base and Taliban strongholds are  visible on the imposing mountains looming just a few miles from the  base. The support squadron, from Cherry Point, N.C., assumed responsibility  for the FOB from the U.K. a few months ago and has since transformed the  small compound into a functional and somewhat comfortable living space.  The squadron introduced electricity provided by gas-fueled generators,  set up laundry services, established a chow hall where Marines can eat  two hot meals a day, built showers and began purifying water. The squadron also expanded the borders of the small FOB, pushing the  berm out hundreds of meters to accommodate an influx of Marines and to  clear the way for its main project – an assault landing strip capable of  hosting medical evacuation helicopters, assault support helicopters and  attack helicopters. In addition to the assault strip, MWSS-274 has  installed forward area refueling points capable of hot and cold refuels  for all types of helicopters, including those used by other coalition  forces. Yet, even with these “amenities” and more than 200 inhabitants the base  is quiet during the day, the silence occasionally split by an exploding  improvised exploding device or the artillery battery here executing a  fire mission. At night the place is almost serene. The view of the stars  is entrancing and most nights you can find dozens of Marines sitting or  laying outside star gazing, using one of the few satellite phones to  make over-due calls to their families. The lack of light and the base’s  seclusion provide a crisp, clear picture of the constellations.  The Marines and sailors have to use satellite phones because the other  lines of communication on the FOB are somewhat unreliable. Although the  morale center is receiving an upgrade that will allow Marines internet  access, the only lines home now are two DSN phones in small, cage-like  structures. But most of the Marines don’t care-they talk to their  families when they can and spend the rest of their time with their  peers. The added element of seclusion bolsters the already strong  camaraderie. Mail for these warriors comes once a month if they are lucky. Convoys  roll in with hundreds of packages that working parties separate into  about a dozen different bins. Marines dig eagerly through the piles and  often stagger off with their arms full of long-awaited packages.  Sometimes they leave disappointed and empty-handed, but care packages  here are often opened and left out so every Marine can take what they  need. There is no hoarding or concept of excess here; the Marines share  openly and willingly.  Every Marine on the FOB is expected to man guard posts or run entry  control points in addition to their daily duties, which places many of  the aviation Marines in unfamiliar roles. They trade their wrenches,  cranials and heavy equipment for flares, night vision goggles and  crew-served weapons to stand four-hour shifts at one of the crude  security posts ringing the FOB. Although the base is not regularly  attacked, there are constant signs that the Taliban is watching  Edinburgh. Explosive ordnance technicians routinely dispose of IEDs  placed within a few hundred yards of the FOB’s perimeter.  The cooks aboard Edinburgh serve hot breakfast and dinner – lunch is  always an MRE – dishing out about 400 meals every day. Although the food  is heat-and-serve, it provides a great relief from the constant flow of  MREs that were the main source of sustenance until about a month ago.  The menus do not vary widely, but most of the Marines are thankful for  hot food and a chance to relax in the air-conditioned dining tent, lit  by plug-in lights hanging from the tent braces.  Supplies are scarce aboard the base. What Marines don’t get from home in  care packages they can purchase from a traveling post exchange that  visits the FOB about every six weeks. It’s like a holiday when the  trucks arrive, laden with supplies. A line of dozens of Marines  stretches away from the truck as shoppers scavenge the aisles for  hygiene gear, energy drinks and tobacco. It usually takes several hours  to get through the line. Edinburgh is on the opposite end of the spectrum than sprawling combat  metropolises like Kandahar Air Field. The life service members live at  larger installations is vastly different than that aboard this barebones  FOB. But the Marines here explained that comfort is relative; they feel  they live a lavish life compared to their brothers sleeping in fighting  holes outside the wire. These Marines love their little oasis, and most  don’t want to leave. Sacrificing running water, electricity, real food,  sewage systems and other amenities is worth it to them if they can  bring support a little closer to the fight.