CONTENTS

Let’s Ride...

RADM Arthur Johnson Col.Mark Vanous, USMC

Commander, Naval Safety Center Deputy Commander

Capt. Ken Freeman Bruce Crisler

Head, Shore Safety Programs EA,Shore Safety Programs

David Kerrick 

Head, Traffi c Safety Division

 

Smart Ride is a special issue magazine resulting from a close partnership with 

the Motorcycle Safety Foundation, a not-for-profi t organization promoting motorcycle safety and awareness. This publication can never take the place of time, 

experience and practice on the roads. It is critically important that every rider 

take an approved motorcycle safety course and continue the training continuum 

throughout his or her riding life! 

COMMUNICATIONS AND MARKETING DEPARTMENT

Commander, Naval Safety Center

375 A Street, Code 70

Norfolk, VA 23511-4399

(757) 444-3520 (DSN 564) Ext. 7610 

John Mahoney, Director, Communications and Marketing

john.mahoney@navy.mil, Ext. 7310

Derek Nelson, Head, Media Division

derek.nelson@navy.mil, Ext. 7243

April Phillips, Public Affairs Offi cer

april.phillips@navy.mil, Ext. 7312

EDITORIAL STAFF

April Phillips, Editor, 

april.phillips@navy.mil, Ext. 7312

Allan Amen, Art Director

allan.amen@navy.mil, Ext 7248

Pat Eaton, Graphics

patricia.eaton@navy.mil, Ext. 7254

Dan Steber, Staff Photographer

danny.steber @navy.mil, Ext. 7247

Dale Wisnieski, Motorcycle Safety Specialist

dale.wisnieski@navy.mil, Ext. 7180

Don Borkoski, Motorcycle Safety Specialist

donald.borkoski@navy.mil, Ext. 7135

Sea&Shore (ISSN 1550-1434) is published quarterly by Commander, Naval Safety Center, 

and is an authorized publication for members of the Department of Defense.

Contents are not necessarily the offi cial views of, or endorsed by, the U.S. Government, 

the Department of Defense, or the U.S. Navy. Photos and artwork are representative and 

do not necessarily show the people or equipment discussed. We reserve the right to edit all 

manuscripts. Reference to commercial products does not imply Navy endorsement. Unless 

otherwise stated, material in this magazine may be reprinted without permission; please 

credit the magazine and author. Periodicals postage paid at Norfolk, Va., and additional 

mailing offi ces.

Distribution: contact editor for distribution requests.

POSTMASTER: Send address changes to: Commander, Naval Safety Center 

Attn: Smart Ride, Code 72A

375 A Street, Norfolk, VA 23511-4399

Visit us online at: www.safetycenter.navy.mil.

Introduction: The Thrill of the Ride 1

NEWS & INFORMATION

Back to Basics with Ben Spies 2

New! Military Sport Bike Training Course 4

Nick Ienatsch’s Inside Line 6

Lucky To Be Alive 10

Brittany Morrow, the Road Rash Queen 12

Crashes Don’t Care About Rank 13

The Right Place for Speed 14

Wipeout! 16

SMART Training 17

Special Pull-out Poster 22-23

GET YOUR MOTOR RUNNING...

THE FUNDAMENTALS

Basic Riding Skills 19

He Came Out of Nowhere 27

T-CLOCS Inspection 30

Personal Protective Equipment 35

Types of Motorcycles 43

Off-Road Riding 44

A Special Supplement to Sea&Shore
Stay Ahead of the 

Curve—and on the Road.

here’s no doubt about it. Motorcycling has experienced a renaissance. Gone are the days when 

just the word “motorcycle” brought to mind ZZ 

Top look-a-likes with grizzled appearances and 

bad attitudes. Today’s bikers are just as likely 

to be doctors, lawyers, Sailors, or Marines.

Whether you just bought your bike or have been 

cruising along for years, you’re part of a growing number 

of people enjoying the benefits of motorcycle riding. The 

upside of biking includes better fuel economy, ease of 

maneuvering, and especially the choice pier-side parking 

spots for those of you stationed on ships. 

Although benefits such as these, coupled with the 

invigorating sense of freedom motorcycles provide, is 

leading more and more people to purchase two-wheeled 

vehicles, the realities of riding a motorcycle remain 

unchanged. Successfully piloting a motorcycle is more 

involved than driving a car, and the consequences of 

being unsuccessful are far greater. For example, you don’t 

have to worry about balancing a car at slow speeds or 

at stop lights. A motorcycle responds more quickly and 

precisely to your commands than a car. That means it's 

less forgiving of mistakes. Perhaps most important to 

keep in mind, a motorcycle is less visible than a car.

Some riders pride themselves about knowing 

everything about how their motorcycle works. Most new 

riders know considerably less. This magazine starts with 

the basics—the most elementary aspects of motorcycling, 

and moves on from there. 

Training and awareness 

are the keys to success when 

riding motorcycles. Since 1973, the 

Motorcycle Safety Foundation has set the 

standard for rider education and training. Millions of 

riders have graduated from MSF's Basic or Experienced 

RiderCourses. They also partner with the Navy and 

Marine Corps to provide the necessary training to allow 

you to ride your motorcycle on base. Each year, nearly 

half a million newly-trained motorcyclists benefit by 

learning to manage the risks, ride within their limits, 

and become responsible, licensed riders. If you haven't 

taken the basic course, now is an excellent time to sign 

up. If it's been awhile, consider signing up for some 

upper-level training. 

This magazine will address topics ranging from 

the all-important personal protective equipment to 

the differences between sport bikes and cruisers, but 

make no mistake, this magazine is not a substitute for 

attending an approved motorcycle-safety course and 

obtaining refresher training throughout your riding life. 

Learning never stops. However, until you take a course 

and afterward to add to the knowledge you gain from 

the hands-on training, you can use this magazine to 

reinforce your knowledge of how your bike works. It can 

also help you understand the basic mental strategies of 

motorcycle-safety awareness and risk management. This 

is just one more tool to help you stay ahead of the curve 

and on the road ... safely. 

Spring 2008 Smart Ride 1
Back to Basics 

 with 

 Ben Spies

2 Smart Ride Spring 2008 
By April Phillips

hey don’t come any faster than Ben Spies, and 

he’s proud to say that his rise to the top of the 

motorcycle racing world is no fluke. He’s won 

the AMA Superbike title two years running and 

he simultaneously won the AMA Superstock 

championship in 2007. He’s 23 years old and at the top of 

his game as part of the Rockstar Makita Yoshimura Suzuki 

Factory Racing team – a team that also includes Mat Mladin, himself a six-time champion.

“We came into 2007 looking to win two championships,” said Spies of last season. “I told myself that I 

wouldn’t be satisfied with anything less than that.”

This drive for perfection makes Spies train with intensity. It’s understandable that fans who watch Spies 

race his GSX-R1000 at speeds up to 200 miles per hour 

think it’s easy. Spies works hard to make it look that 

way. He began riding at the tender age of five in his 

hometown of Longview, Texas. He started racing 

when he was 8, and by the age of 10 he’d won 

27 consecutive races. He turned pro at 16, 

when most people his age were more worried 

about getting driver’s licenses than racing motorcycles. However, Spies is quick 

to point out that his success has come 

as the result of a lot of hard work and 

training.

“The most important thing is the 

basics,” he said. “You have to have 

that down 100 percent before you can 

do anything else.”

Speed may be what draws young 

people to the sport of motorcycle racing, but the basics of braking and 

cornering are what wins races, he said. 

That’s the point he tries to hammer 

home to his fans.

“I try to teach them that. 

I slow them down and show 

them how to perform the basic maneuvers,” Spies said.

He also practices what 

he preaches. Spies has 

trained his body to act like 

an extension of his bike.

“It’s what I know. It’s 

second nature,” he said.

That level of confidence could easily have 

been shattered back in 

2003, when Spies hit the 

wall going 190 miles per 

hour at the Daytona International Speedway. The accident wasn’t his fault—his rear tire exploded during a 

Dunlop tire test. Even then, however, training took over. 

He was sliding on the pavement, headfirst toward the 

wall. He dug his left elbow into the ground to spin himself around and hit feetfirst. The injuries were intense. 

The friction of the slide causes some of his skin to literally melt. His left buttock was chewed to the bone, 

and there was a huge gouge in his shoulder. Still, Spies 

knows his gear is the only reason he’s still around to 

race for championships.

“For sure, if I hadn’t been wearing my helmet and 

leathers, I wouldn’t be here,” he said.

Spies said that in his years of racing, he’s seen and 

been involved in plenty of wipeouts, and the gear always 

does its job.

“Usually, when we crash at 100, or 130, you get up 

and don’t have a scratch on you.” 

It took a while for Spies to completely recover from his 

2003 accident. The skills that he’d worked so hard to make 

second nature had been dormant for months while he endured painful bandage changes and mental anguish. He 

also had to adapt and change his riding position because 

of the injuries. 

But he continued to heal, and he kept training, going 

back to the basics that paved his foundation in racing. 

Now, completely recovered and at the top of his sport, 

he occasionally goes back to work on the same skills he 

began building 18 years ago when he first hopped on the 

back of a bike. He is a firm believer that learning is a lifelong process.

“You have to progress,” Spies said. “I’m getting better 

every year. Even though we’ve won the biggest championship in America two years in a row, I still get better every 

time I get on the bike. I went pro at 16, but I didn’t know 

half of what I know now.”

Getting better is what it’s all about for Spies. This year, 

he’s planning on racing Superbike only, so he can concentrate on defending his title. He knows it won’t be easy, 

especially with teammate Mladin equally driven to make it 

back to the top. 

“Trying to win three Superbike championships in a 

row is really what motivates me,” Spies said. 

However, he knows that in order to do that, he can’t 

afford any boneheaded mistakes. That’s why he’s always 

going back to basics.

“For sure, it’s safety first for me. Always.”

The 2008 season began March 5 in Daytona. Spies 

finished second to Mladin, but it’s a long way until the 

season-ending race in Monterey, Calif., in September. Spies 

is in it for the long haul. 

Spring 2008 Smart Ride 3
By April Phillips

here’s no doubt about it. Sport bikes are 

sexy. They are sleek and colorful and built 

for speed. For Sailors and Marines, many of 

whom are naturally attracted to an adrenaline 

rush, this is a huge selling point. However, 

these same features make riding sport bikes much different than handling cruisers or touring bikes. Mishap statistics show it’s important to take these differences into account. That’s why the Naval Safety Center partnered with 

the Motorcycle Safety Foundation to create the Military 

Sport Bike Course specifically for sport bike riders.

“These bikes come with engines that are 600, 800, 

900cc or even higher,” said Dale Wisnieski, a motorcycle 

safety specialist at the Naval Safety Center. He also explained that these bikes have engines tuned for racing, are 

made of advanced lightweight material, and are highly 

maneuverable.

While they may be more maneuverable, they do ride 

differently than cruisers or other types of motorcycles. 

That’s why this new training is so crucial.

“This course will teach cornering, braking and swerving, and other things necessary to get the most out of 

your sport bike,” Wisnieski said. “Also, it gives insight on 

rider behaviors and perception.”

Fleet concentration areas such as Norfolk, San Diego, 

and many other locations will begin teaching the course 

June 1, 2008, and it will expand rapidly thereafter. The 

course includes classroom time as well as practical experience out on the range. The aggressive approach is due to 

the fact that so many Sailors and Marines are buying these 

machines without much riding experience.

 “It’s common for someone who has never been on a 

motorcycle of any type to fall for peer pressure or advertising pitches and buy a very expensive, very powerful 

bike,” Wisnieski said. “If you buy one, sign up for this 

course immediately.”

 Statistics show that the increased number of sport 

bikes on the road has had an effect on mishap rates. The 

rise in sport bike popularity corresponds to a rise in motorcycle fatalities. In 2007, a majority of fatalities involved 

sport bikes, and as of the first half of fiscal year 2008, 100 

percent of fatalities in the Navy occurred on sport bikes. 

The Naval Safety Center believes this new course geared 

specifically to sport bikes will help reverse this disturbing 

trend by giving riders valuable experience. 

Many sport bike riders are young and haven’t been 

riding long, but this isn’t universally true. Aviation 

Electrician’s Mate Senior Chief (AW) Calvin Stone, a 37-

year-old who has ridden motorcycles off and on for more 

than 15 years, recently purchased a sport bike.

“I love the fact that it’s so much lighter and more 

responsive than a larger bike, plus, who doesn’t like the 

Photo by MCC David Rush. Modified.

4 Smart Ride Spring 2008 
speed when merging onto the highway or passing slower 

traffic?” he said. 

Speed is the number one reason Sailors and Marines 

give when opting for sport bikes. ET3 Kevin Jordan, who 

rides a Kawasaki ZZR600, admits that’s why he bought 

one, even though he’d never ridden before. 

Since purchasing his bike, Jordan has done the 

smart thing and taken riding courses. He said he’s always looking for ways to be a smarter motorcyclist and 

plans to take the Military Sport Bike Course as soon as 

it’s available. 

The course will teach riders how to comfortably 

handle these high-performance machines, but Stone also 

recommends that those with a need for speed find appropriate venues.

“Take it to the track. There are many available where 

you can go for the day and ride fast in a controlled environment.”

The Naval Safety Center also recommends track days, 

but Don Borkoski, another motorcycle safety specialist, 

“This isn’t your grandfather’s motorcycle safety course,” “This is 

exciting. The fleet asked for it because sport bikes are the bikes 

that they’re buying and riding.”

said many Sailors and Marines are buying bikes faster 

than those ridden by some racers.

“The typical racetrack bike is 600cc. The average Sailor 

is buying one that’s 1000cc or above. These bikes are great 

and can be a lot of fun, as long as you maintain awareness 

of the consequences of that kind of speed,” he said. 

And ultimately, speed comes from your throttle hand. 

The responsibility lies with the rider, not the machine. Naval Safety Center motorcycle specialists like Wisnieski and 

Borkoski emphasize that they do not want to discourage 

Sailors and Marines from riding these types of bikes as 

long as they are trained. 

“This isn’t your grandfather’s motorcycle safety 

course,” Wisnieski said. “This is exciting. The fleet asked 

for it because sport bikes are the bikes that they’re buying 

and riding. We listened and designed the training specifically for them and their needs. We really believe this is 

going to go a long way toward improving the success rates 

for sport bike riders, keeping them on the road and out of 

the hospitals or morgues.” 

Spring 2008 Smart Ride 5
By Nick Ienatsch

ick Ienatsch is the author of Sport Riding Techniques and the lead instructor at the Freddie 

Spencer High Performance Riding School. He is 

involved in the Military SportBike RiderCourse 

and most importantly, wants to thank each and 

every one of you for your service to our country.

Trail Braking: On the track to win, on the street to 

survive.

 Many “riding experts” feel trail braking is an advanced technique that beginning riders shouldn’t worry 

about. I don’t agree. It’s the new, low-mileage riders who 

are crashing the most, and the main reason they crash is 

too much speed at the corner entrance, or as I put it, a lack 

of control at the corner entrance. The brakes are a control, 

and riders who crash rush into the corner without this 

control on. So wherever you are in your riding career, study 

this column. Keep it with you for the next few weeks and 

review it before and after rides. Riding improvement happens in your mind when the bike is sitting still and I encourage you to work hard at your riding because mistakes 

can be catastrophic. Riding well is difficult; riding poorly 

The Inside Line

6 Smart Ride Spring 2008 
Photos by Dan Steber. Modified.

is easy and painful. 

Trail braking will soon reveal itself as 

the secret to outright speed on the racetrack, 

but more importantly, the secret to consistent 

street riding at any pace, on any bike. A final 

point: An expert rider’s touch on the frontbrake lever is much, much finer and lighter 

than you realize.

How can the fastest roadracers win races? 

If they’re going faster than everyone else, 

shouldn’t they crash more frequently? Sure, 

Ben Spies sets track records, but he collects 

championships by finishing races. Lesser riders 

try to match the champion’s pace but crash trying. Amateur racers come to the same track and 

crash while pushing to get within six seconds of 

the champion’s lap time. How can this be? 

The confused “safety experts” in this country 

would have everyone believe that speed and safety 

are mutually exclusive, but racing tells us a com

Spring 2008 Smart Ride 7
pletely different story. In racing, we find the fastest riders 

are often the least likely to hit the ground. Much of this 

can be explained by unique natural abilities, such as eyesight and balance, or put down to a superior machine. But 

there is one aspect of their riding that will help every street 

and track rider in the world: The champions realize that 

every corner has a slow point.

It doesn’t matter how long they dirttracked, who their 

daddy is, how old they are, what they eat, or how they 

train... the fast guys know that each corner has a point 

where the bike must be going a certain speed. Arrive at 

this particular point with too much speed and the bike 

runs wide or crashes. Arrive with too little speed and 

you’re gonna get beat. The best riders have the ability to 

arrive at a corner’s slowest point closer to the precise speed 

the chassis can handle. This ability makes them faster 

than the rider who over-slows his/her bike at the corner 

entrance, and more consistent than the rider who carries 

too much speed into the corner. 

And this ability is called trail braking. You need to 

learn it... on the track to win, on the street to survive and 

fully enjoy this sport.

The term trail braking refers to the practice of trailing some front-brake pressure into the corner. Or you can 

think of trailing off the brakes as you apply lean angle. 

There are two extremely important reasons to trail your 

brakes into the corner, but before we get to that, understand that the majority of your braking should be done 

before you tip your bike into the corner. Don’t get confused 

and believe that you are going to add brake pressure as 

you add lean angle. Just the opposite: You want to give 

away brake pressure as you add lean angle because your 

front tire can only handle so much combined braking and 

lean angle. I explain it with a 100-point chart in my book 

“Sport Riding Techniques,” writing about a front tire that 

has 100 total points of traction divisible between braking 

and cornering. As we add lean-angle points, we give away 

braking points. I’ve heard of riders believing that trail 

braking means running into the corner and then going to 

the brakes. There are some corners with that type of layout, but most corners require brake application well before 

turn-in. I think the point will become clear as we delve 

into why we want to trail brake.

We want to trail brake to control our speed closer to 

the slowest point of the corner. The closer we get to that 

point, the easier it is to judge whether we’re going too fast 

or too slow. If your style is to let go of the brakes before 

turning into the corner, understand that you’re giving up 

on your best speed control (the front brake) and hoping 

that your pre-turn-in braking was sufficient to get your 

Photo by Dan Steber. Modified.

8 Smart Ride Spring 2008 
speed correct at the slowest point in the corner. If you get 

in too slow, this is no big deal. The problem comes when 

the rider’s upright braking doesn’t shed the required speed 

and suddenly the rider is relying on lean angle to make 

it through the surprisingly tight turn, or to get under the 

gravel patch, or to the right of the Chevy pickup halfway in 

his/her lane. 

We don’t crash on perfect days with perfect pavement 

and perfect tires. We crash when something unexpected 

crops up—the gravel, the truck in your lane, or the water 

across the road mid-corner. If you’ve entered the corner 

with no brakes, then you’ve basically reduced your options to attempting to reapply the brakes when you see 

the unexpected surprise, adding lean angle, or standing 

the bike up and running off the road. You need to make a 

habit of turning into corners with just a little brake pressure because the unexpected is much easier to deal with 

if your brake pads are already squeezing your discs. You 

will be in control of your speed and as your speed drops, 

your bike will be able to carve a tighter radius at the 

same lean angle. 

If you’re sitting there thinking, “This guy doesn’t 

know what he’s talking about, my bike stands up when I 

grab the brakes mid-corner,” I’d have to say you’re right. 

Abrupt braking mid-corner will collapse the fork and make 

the bike stand up. Remember, trail braking is a light touch 

on the brakes, not a grab. Think of trail braking as finetuning your entrance speed. The big chunks of speed are 

knocked off while straight-line braking.

Makes sense, doesn’t it? This sport should make sense 

to you. If someone tells you something that doesn’t make 

sense, ask questions. If it still doesn’t make sense, quit listening. In this case, I’m telling you it’s easier to judge your 

speed the closer you get to the slowest point in the corner. 

Your best speed-setting device is your front brake, so use 

it as you turn into the corner. All corners? No, don’t make 

this math. Corners differ and your techniques must differ 

to deal with them. But the majority of corners have their 

slowest point somewhere after the turn-in. Find that point 

and trail the brakes closer to it. 

The second reason you need to trail brake is because 

you can actually improve your bike’s steering geometry, 

helping it turn better. A slightly collapsed front fork tightens the bike’s rake and trail numbers and allows it to turn 

in less time and distance. Tighter steering geometry is one 

reason a sport bike turns better than a cruiser. Rather than 

let go of the front brake before the turn-in, keep a bit of pressure on and you’ll immediately feel the difference. 

Let’s again study the rider who gets all his/her braking done before the turn-in. As the front brake is released, 

the fork springs rebound, putting the bike in the worst geometry to steer. As this rider works within this technique, 

he/she will attempt to turn the bike quicker and quicker, 

trying to make up for the extended steering geometry with 

more and more aggressive steering inputs. The faster they 

ride, the wider the bike wants to run through the corners, 

so the harder they’ll try to steer. This rider will be forced 

to use more and more lean angle in an effort to “scrub off” 

speed with the front tire. Aggressive steering inputs and 

lots of lean angle... a recipe for disaster. 

If we could convince this rider to stay on the brake lever a little bit longer, that lengthened brake pressure would 

tighten the steering geometry and the bike would turn 

better. It would carve a tighter radius sooner in the corner. 

It would take less lean angle. It would reduce the need 

for aggressive steering inputs, and anyone who does this 

sport well realizes that aggression with the brakes, throttle 

and lean angle can get painful. Fast guys load the tires 

smoothly, whether accelerating, braking or turning. Forget 

the “flick.”

Time for a real-world example. I’ve worked at the 

Freddie Spencer High Performance Riding School for 10 

years, and in addition to sportbike training, we’ve had 

the chance to host groups of cruiser riders several times 

in those years. Over a period of 10 days last year, almost 

800 riders had a chance to ride a variety of motorcycles 

on the track and one of the two main points we stressed 

was the use of the brakes. Keep in mind that some of 

these riders had never even used the front brake, having heard from an uncle or neighbor that the rear brake 

was the one to use. On a long-wheelbase cruiser, the rear 

brake is quite effective, but mastering the front brake is 

still the secret to bike control. Some of these guys had 

ridden for more than 30 years and were amazed at how 

much more bike control they had when they mastered the 

front brake. They were able to ride at a quicker pace than 

expected because they gained the confidence of slowing 

and turning their bikes at the next corner. 

Let’s look at one more real-world example: MotoGP 

(or World Superbike or 250GP or AMA Superbike, pick 

your favorite). All those guys trail-brake, and do you 

know why? It’s faster and safer. Get in front of your 

TV and watch how long they stay on the front brake. 

They’re champions because they carry as much speed as 

possible to the slowest point in the corner (and as much 

speed as possible from the slowest point, but that’s 

another subject). It’s not just about speed; it’s about 

finishing tire tests, practice, qualifying, and the race. 

Crashing is disastrous for street riders and equally problematic for racers who want a contract next year. Trail 

braking is about safety on the street and consistency on 

the track. It makes sense. You need to do it. 

Spring 2008 Smart Ride 9
I Am 

Lucky To Be

Alive...

Although Isaak is only 24 years old, he’s had a very 

successful career so far. Enlisting in the Navy right out of 

high school, he attained the rank of first class petty officer 

in less than five years. Because he treasures his personal 

and professional success so much, he’s acutely aware that 

he nearly threw it all away four years ago.

“I’m really lucky to be alive,” he admitted.

Four years ago, after returning from a two-month atsea period, Isaak decided to buy a motorcycle.

“I loved sport bikes, but I had no riding experience,” he 

By April Phillips

ometimes, it’s the small things that make all the difference. For 

GM1(SW) James Isaak, a Minot, N.D., native stationed at the Navy 

Munitions Command Detachment Sewells Point in Norfolk, the things 

that make life worth living are his new wife and the home they are 

making together. They dream of having a baby someday soon.

said. “I had no license, but at the dealership, they told me 

if I could come up with the money to buy it, I could drive it 

off the lot.”

Since he’d recently spent time at sea, Isaak had a little 

money in his pocket. He was able to obtain a loan for the 

rest and purchased a Honda CBR 600. A friend taught him 

some of the basics of motorcycle operation, and he began 

riding around in parking lots, trying to get acclimated.

“Then I started to get bold,” he admitted.

Isaak took the bike out on the street and his speed 

Photo by Dan Steber. Modified.

10 Smart Ride Spring 2008 
Cartoon by Ricardo Nunes.

began to creep up. After stalling out at a traffic light, the 

bike went down, and he busted the rearview mirror and 

cracked the headlight.

“They always say that you’ll put the bike down once, 

and I figured I’d gotten it out of the way,” Isaak said.

In four months, he’d put a couple of hundred miles on 

the bike. He also dropped the motorcycle one more time 

and still hadn’t taken the Motorcycle Safety Foundation’s 

Basic RiderCourse. However, he was feeling more confident 

and itching to see how fast his bike could go.

“I wanted to go riding with the guys. I remember I was 

sitting at a gas station in Virginia Beach, and a bunch of 

experienced riders rode by,” he said.

They stopped and asked if he wanted to tag along.

“I wanted to be that guy. I wanted to do the things 

they were doing. They were doing stunts and other coollooking things. I decided to give it a try, but they started 

speeding up. I was nervous, but I wanted to look cool so I 

tried to keep up,” Isaak said.

He soon realized that he didn’t have the skills to be 

riding with these people, but his pride wouldn’t let him 

slow down and break off from the group. Isaak admits that 

peer pressure led him to take some risks that he wouldn’t 

have on his own.

“We went really fast through tight, narrow curves. 

Then I saw the trees coming at me and slammed on the 

brakes. I got bucked off my bike just like a horse,” he said.

It might sound like a cliché, but Isaak said he really did 

see his life flashing before his eyes. He was lucky that there 

were no oncoming cars. He ended up with little more than 

a few bruises and some scratches. He was wearing all the 

proper personal protective equipment and credits this with 

saving his life. However, all the PPE in the world doesn’t 

help an inexperienced rider make solid decisions in a split 

second. Isaak knows his crash could have been avoided if he 

hadn’t pushed the limits beyond his skill level.

“Those statistics you see – I could easily have been the 

one who died,” he said, his voice cracking with emotion. “I 

got married last year, and my wife and I are buying a house. 

We’re thinking of having a kid. I could have lost all that 

with one stupid mistake, but this is my second chance.” 

Isaak feels like a man with a new lease on life. He’s 

determined to make the most of his second chance. He has 

some advice for others who see the sport bike groups on 

the roadways and think they can do the same stunts at the 

same speeds.

“Get the training. Think before you do it, and most importantly, be real with yourself.” 

Motorcycling:

Hone your skills.

Maximum fun requires 

maximum preparation.

Spring 2008 Smart Ride 11
By April Phillips

rittany Morrow was 22 years old when she 

hopped on the back of her friend Shaun’s Suzuki GSX-R750 back in September 2005. She 

was planning to join the Marine Corps and 

had her heart set on becoming a combat correspondent. She also loved riding and considered herself 

an experienced passenger. She was excited to be on a sport 

bike—even if it was as a passenger. 

To prepare herself, she put on a pair of sunglasses and 

shed her cowboy hat for an oversized helmet. She donned a 

pair of Capri pants and a sweatshirt over her bikini. 

“I thought nothing of the fact that I had practically 

no protection against the asphalt if anything were to happen. I figured that we couldn’t get into a wreck. It simply 

wouldn’t happen to me,” Morrow said.

Forty-five minutes into the ride, Morrow wished she’d 

been a little more thorough when choosing her personal 

protective equipment.

“I started to slide back on the seat and felt the cool air 

fill the small space between my chest and Shaun’s back. I 

felt a rush of wind hit my face like a brick and our bodies 

separated,” she said. 

The force of the wind ripped her off the seat in an 

instant. Soon, she was grinding across the surface of the 

highway, and Morrow said she felt every single inch of the 

522-foot tumble. 

“I didn’t lose consciousness, but I remember wishing that I had,” she said. “I knew this was far worse than 

anything I had ever gone through, and I was convinced I 

would not live to see the next day,” she said.

Morrow spent the next two months in a hospital. She 

had third-degree road rash-burns covering 55 percent of 

her body. She lost half of her left breast. She severed the 

tendons in her left pinky finger and dislocated her right 

big toe. The accident also caused indirect health problems. 

She lost a lot of blood and ended up contracting pneumonia. She suffered a blood infection, a blood clot on one of 

her legs, and an adverse reaction to one of her three blood 

transfusions.

“My road rash was so severe that my skin was not going to grow back on its own. I had lost too much surface 

area for the doctors to simply suture me together and send 

me home. My thighs were the only two places that had not 

received any abrasions,” Morrow described.

In order for her open wounds to heal, the doctors had 

to cut off a thick layer of healthy skin from her thighs, 

place it over her burns and surgically staple the new skin 

in place. There wasn’t enough skin on her thighs to graft 

all the wounds at once, so the doctors had to choose which 

areas to repair first and which had to wait. As a reaction 

to medication, her long, blond hair fell out.

It’s been nearly two and a half years since Morrow fell 

off that motorcycle. She knew the physical healing process 

would be a long, tough journey, but she also realized that 

she had some emotional scars. 

“My heart felt heavy, knowing something I loved so 

much had almost cost me my life,” she said.

That’s when Morrow decided that she had to get her 

own motorcycle and ride again. She’s now a trained and 

licensed rider. She owns two motorcycles—a Yamaha R6 

and a Honda CBR600F4i. She takes part in track days and 

is learning to stunt ride. What’s even sexier is that Morrow 

works on her own bikes. This time, she’s doing it right. 

“Riding prepared for the worst possibilities will always 

help protect you from injury in even the smallest wreck. I 

believe that wearing gear is an attitude that can save your 

life. Accepting the risk before you even swing your leg over 

your bike and protecting yourself in case it happens will 

make you ride smarter and safer and might even prevent 

an accident altogether,” she said.

Morrow is a protective apparel spokesperson and has 

also purchased the rights to TheRoadRashQueen.com, an 

online forum where she can share her experience and urge 

others to always wear the proper gear. She travels the country telling others how to protect themselves. She enjoys taking her message to the military, because she feels grateful to 

give something back to those who protect America.

“Protect others by protecting yourself,” she said. “Ride 

with the attitude that you are needed so desperately by 

those around you, including your country. You can’t afford 

to risk riding without your gear.” 

The Road Rash

Queen

Photo courtesy of Matt Timmons Media

12 Smart Ride Spring 2008 
By April Phillips

ear Admiral Christopher J. Mossey, Commander, Naval Facilities Atlantic, has been 

riding motorcycles for a long time. He first 

began learning how to ride in high school, 

and when he was a sophomore at Cornell 

University in upstate New York, he bought a brand new 

1979 Honda Hawk. He zipped around campus and even 

took extended trips in the cold to visit a girlfriend 90 miles 

away. He thought he knew plenty about riding, but when 

he was commissioned into the Navy in 1981 and then 

stationed in San Diego, he wasn’t allowed to ride on base 

because he didn’t have a documented training course.

“San Diego was the perfect climate to ride a motorcycle, and I planned to ride it to and from work, so I had 

to take an MSF course. I’d been riding for three years in 

college, and I thought I knew all there was to know about 

motorcycle safety,” Mossey said.

He sucked it up and took the course, and he said it 

surprised him.

“I became a much safer rider,” he admitted. “Just because I could ride a bike and drive a manual car didn’t 

mean I could safely ride a motorcycle.”

He learned that most accidents happen at intersections 

and that the motorcyclist is often not at fault.

“A lot of drivers don’t see you. They’re not expecting 

to see you, so you just don’t register. They’re expecting a 

big blue minivan, not a motorcycle,” Mossey said.

Now he has the opportunity to pass the wisdom of his 

nearly 30 years of experience down to a junior officer – his 

aide, Lt. Jennifer Steadman-Murphy. When Murphy was 

deployed to Sasebo, Japan, last year, her name was placed 

into a raffle when she contributed to the Combined Federal 

Campaign. Her name was drawn, and she’s now the proud 

owner of a new Harley-Davidson Sportster. 

A Harley Sportster is a dream bike. Many motorcycle 

enthusiasts salivate at the thought of hopping on and 

twisting the throttle, but Steadman-Murphy has kept a 

level head.

“It’s delayed gratification. I go look at my beautiful, 

shiny, red motorcycle, but I’m not legal,” she said.

Steadman-Murphy rode motorcycles briefly when she 

was in college, but several people she was close to were 

involved in accidents—one was killed. It was enough to 

make her stop riding for awhile. When she got her new 

Harley back in October, she said she was excited about 

riding again but smart enough to realize that she wasn’t 

ready to just hop on and ride off into the sunset. The Motorcycle Safety Foundation always stresses that skills are 

perishable. Steadman-Murphy had never been a really confident rider to begin with, so she knew she needed training 

before she could ride safely, not to mention legally.

“I haven’t ridden in so long that, by now, I’m a rote 

amateur, and I treat myself that way,” she said.

Even though her job as Mossey’s aide keeps her busy 

and traveling all over the world, Steadman-Murphy decided to hold off on riding until she is able to enroll in not 

one, but two safety courses. The first she plans to take is 

through the Commonwealth of Virginia. For this, she will 

ride a small loaner bike and relearn the basics of motorcycle operation, such as clutch and throttle techniques and 

cornering and braking. She’ll get licensed through this 

course, as well. Since she’s changing duty stations soon, 

Steadman-Murphy signed up for an MSF course that she’ll 

take on her Harley once she moves. It doesn’t hurt one bit 

that her new duty station is in Hawaii – the perfect place 

for motorcycles. Her husband, who has taken both the Virginia and Navy MSF courses, has already left for Hawaii 

and took the bike with him.

“It’s there for him to ride and maintain. He’s taking 

good care of it,” she said.

Mossey and his aide have had plenty of opportunities 

to talk about smart riding, including personal protective 

equipment. Both have chosen to wear full-face helmets.

“You don’t get bugs in your teeth,” said SteadmanMurphy. Mossey agreed.

“If you get hit by a bug when you’re driving down the 

highway, it hurts!,” he said. “Also, I wear contact lenses, 

and the full-face helmet blocks the wind and doesn’t irritate them.” 

All this talk has Mossey ready to get his motorcycle 

out of the garage and back on the highway. He’s kind of 

partial to his bike. He’s still riding the same 1979 Honda 

Hawk he bought in college nearly 30 years ago. 

Crashes Don’t Care About Rank

Everyone Benefits from Training

Spring 2008 Smart Ride 13
By April Phillips

et’s face it – part of the reason so many people 

love riding motorcycles is because of the potential to go fast. Yet, we also know that speed 

is often a factor in crashes. So how 

do you balance the adrenaline 

rush of going really fast with 

the level-headedness 

needed to remain 

in one piece?

The Right Place for

PEED

14 Smart Ride Spring 2008 

Photo by Dito Milan
For many Sailors and Marines, the answer is to take it 

to the track.

Aviation Electronics Technician First Class (AW) Hoge 

Young, currently stationed in Atsugi, Japan, rides a 1999 

Honda CBR900RR. When he was stationed at Point Mugu, 

Calif., he started going to a coffee shop that was a hang 

out for local bikers. The shop organized occasional track 

days for the group.

“Many riders in California told me that taking my bike 

to the track was the best way to gain skill,” Young said.

His first track session was in 2005, and he said he’s 

seen massive improvement in both his form and technique. 

Riding on the track allows him to go fast in an environment where it’s safe and legal to do so.

“There are no oncoming cars, animals, gravel, oil 

slicks on a blind corner, and no cliffs to go over or trees to 

hit if I run off course,” he said.

Wendell Dunn is the traffic safety manager for USNAF Atsugi and he’s also an MSF RiderCoach. Five years 

ago he purchased a Triumph Daytona 955i and fell in 

with a group of riders who raced motorcycles or took 

their bikes to track days. At first, he went just to watch 

but soon felt the need for speed. He goes to the speedway several times a year and agrees that it provides the 

opportunity for riders to improve their abilities in relative safety.

“The primary skills that most riders lack are braking 

and cornering skills. Going fast in a straight line is easy, 

but getting the bike back down to an entry speed takes 

some practice. Nice, easy braking won’t get the job done. 

If you’re going to ride at a hundred miles per hour, you 

need to be able to stop from a hundred miles per hour. 

Then there is cornering. Typically, an outside-inside-outside path of travel will get you through a corner in the 

shortest amount of time,” Dunn said.

Learning techniques such as these takes practice. 

Young said new track riders are often concerned about 

leaning at extreme angles.

“Learning to lean and how far you can actually lean 

may amaze you,” Young said. 

Dunn explained that there are three typical ways of 

riding on a track. The first is a free track day, usually 

sponsored by a tire manufacturer. 

“The drawback to a free track day is that the riders have 

varying skills, from very good to extreme novice,” he said.

The second method is to attend a class and get a 

track license. A license is usually for a particular track, 

and with it a rider can sign up for sessions arranged by 

skill level. The third method, known as a riding party 

is Dunn’s favorite, even though it tends to be the most 

expensive.

“I prefer the riding party because of the regimentation. There are three distinct groups: novice, intermediate, 

and expert, or as I like to say: the slow guys, the fast slow 

guys, and the fast fast guys.”

These sessions last all day and usually include lunch. 

It’s important to remember that just because it’s safer 

to ride at high speeds on a track, rather than on the street, 

there is still some risk involved.

“I have been to six track sessions, and yes, there are 

crashes at every one,” Young said. “But even with the high 

speeds, the goriest injury I saw was a rider needing minor 

medical attention for an abrasion on his arm. His crash 

might have been much worse had it occurred on the street. 

Most serious injuries are not from the rider sliding on the 

road, but from impacting an immovable object.” 

Young said that his experience on the track has helped 

curb his need to ride at excessive speeds on the street.

“After traveling at more than 150 miles per hour on 

the front stretch of Willow Springs Raceway, I have no 

desire to try that anywhere but a track. A race track has 

a wider road surface, and you can use every inch of it. 

That wide track surface is also inspected before the riding 

starts, swept clean of debris, and in good repair,” he said,

There’s another thing Young loves about riding on the 

track: He loves dragging his knee. 

“Dragging a knee is an important milestone to a 

sport rider. It’s an awesome feeling to hang off the bike, 

stick a knee out, and lean the bike over and touch the 

macadam,” he said. “I am allowed to explore my limits 

while operating the machine in its native environment 

as this is what it was designed to do while dragging my 

knee. Did I mention dragging my knee?” he added with 

enthusiasm.

However, he wouldn’t think of doing it on the street or 

without the tough gear that protects his knee and the rest 

of his body. Young was involved in a few minor crashes 

when he was stationed in the United States.

“My bike and my pride were damaged more than by 

body because my PPE worked.” 

For more information on locating tracks in your area, 

contact your nearest base safety office or Motorcycle Safety 

Foundation RiderCoach.

Spring 2008 Smart Ride 15
By April Phillips

viation Structural Mechanic Third Class 

Justin Clark, stationed at Carrier Airborne 

Early Warning Squadron 116, was like a lot 

of young Sailors and Marines who purchase 

motorcycles. He wanted to go fast. In March 

2007, he bought a motorcycle that could help him accomplish that – a used Suzuki GSXR-750. He had no past 

experience with motorcycles, but he got a loan from the 

bank and was able to purchase the bike. The very next 

day, he was out on the roads and logged a hundred miles.

One thing Clark didn’t have was the Motorcycle Safety 

Foundation’s Basic RiderCourse under his belt. He thought 

it would be a hassle to take the course and figured he 

could learn on his own. 

“A buddy of mine found out I’d bought a bike and 

called to see if I wanted to ride,” he said. “He didn’t know 

that I didn’t know how to ride yet, and I didn’t tell him.”

Clark, who is stationed in Point Mugu, Calif., soon 

found himself riding down the scenic Pacific Coast Highway.

“I remember thinking to myself, ‘Man, this is amazing!’ 

I had never done anything like that before,” Clark said. 

With speeds creeping up toward 150 miles per hour, 

Clark was finally experiencing the adrenaline rush he was 

hoping for. However, he got more than he bargained for 

when he drifted across the centerline into oncoming traffic. 

Clark said he’d been going into a sharp curve at 90 miles 

per hour and had only slowed down to about 75 when he 

swerved into the shoulder and lost control.

“It happened so fast,” he said. “I did a bunch of flips 

and rolls, and the next thing I knew, I’d landed against the 

side of the mountain,” he said.

Clark got up immediately, and at first, he thought he 

was ok. Actually, he was in shock, but he refused an ambulance ride.

“I hadn’t completed the safety course, and I knew it was 

a requirement. I didn’t want anyone to find out,” he said.

Clark and his friend loaded his bike onto a truck, and 

that’s when the full extent of his injuries hit him. He felt a 

little woozy and decided to go to the hospital after all. He 

had a nasty gash in his arm that needed to be stitched up, 

but thanks to the fact that he was wearing all the required 

personal protective equipment, Clark had no serious injuries. 

His cuts and bruises stung, but so did the price tag for 

getting his bike repaired. He paid $4,000 to buy the motorcycle and had to pay an additional $2,000 to get it back in 

good working order. 

The accident didn’t keep Clark off his motorcycle, but it 

did make him a lot smarter about how it went about riding 

it. He did what he should have done before he even purchased his bike and took a motorcycle-safety class.

“I learned a lot of amazing things,” he said of the 

course. “I think everyone who rides or is thinking about 

riding should get the safety course completed.”

Clark said he rides his motorcycle every day, but since 

the accident, he’s learned to keep his need for speed in 

check. He wants to take more advanced rider courses and 

plans to take his bike to the track next time he feels the 

need to go fast. 

at 75 MPH

16 Smart Ride Spring 2008 
By April Phillips

here’s a mantra in the Navy and Marine Corps 

that says “Train like you fight.” It means a general quarters drill will seem as close as possible 

to an actual shipboard emergency. It means 

that aircraft launch from a flight deck the same 

way in training as they do when they’re loaded with live 

ammunition. This philosophy applies to off-duty activities 

as well. The Motorcycle Safety Foundation (MSF) recently 

visited ships in Norfolk, Va., with the Safe Motorcyclist 

Awareness and Recognition Trainer (SMART), a new tool to 

help motorcycle riders react to a number of dangerous scenarios they will encounter when they’re out in traffic. 

The machine is basically a high-tech video game, with 

handlebars and controls just like those on a real motorcycle. “Riders” look at a screen depicting likely roadway 

scenarios, and their actions at the controls affect what occurs on screen. 

The SMART, manufactured by Honda, is not a simulator, explained Al Hydeman of MSF. 

“It doesn’t lean like a motorcycle does. We can’t teach 

riders how to counter-steer or operate their bikes. That’s 

what the RiderCourses are for, and they do a great job of 

teaching people how to ride safely in a parking lot or other 

controlled environment. This takes them into traffic.”

Electronics Technician Third Class Kevin Jordan has 

been in the Navy just over two years. He’s stationed 

S•M•A•R•T Training = Smart Riding

Photo by Dan Steber.

Spring 2008 Smart Ride 17
onboard USS George Washington and recently had the 

chance to try out the SMART when Hydeman and the Naval Safety Center took the trainer onboard the carrier.

“It makes you think and puts you through scenarios 

such as pedestrian crossings and vehicles that don’t see 

you coming,” he said.

Jordan has been riding his Kawasaki ZZR 600 for 

about a year and a half. He’s one of many military riders 

who bought their bikes without any prior training.

“When I bought my bike, it was the first time I’d ever 

even been on a motorcycle or a dirt bike, or anything like 

that,” he said.

He believes the SMART would be beneficial to Sailors 

and Marines before they purchase a bike.

“It helps you with your thought process and muscle 

memory and getting 

used to the feel of 

the controls. At first, 

it can be overwhelming, even without the 

traffic.”

Hydeman understands this, and 

said it’s better to be 

overwhelmed at the 

controls of a video 

monitor than on real 

roads, at real speeds.

“A lot of people 

say, ‘I hope I don’t 

crash’ when they use 

SMART. I say, ‘I hope 

you do crash’ because that’s how you 

learn and here the 

only thing that really 

crashes is the ego,” 

Hydeman said.

He went through 

a test ride with Aviation Ordnanceman 

Airman Mark Gentle, 

another George Washington Sailor. After 

Gentle completed 

his first ride on the 

SMART, Hydeman 

was able to go back 

through it with him, 

replaying all the dangerous scenarios that 

occurred. One benefit is that SMART allows you to change 

perspectives when it’s switched into coaching mode. In one 

scenario where a car pulled out directly in front of the motorcycle, Gentle was able to realize that the motorist couldn’t see 

him. This is important, because part of the danger of motorcycles is that they’re far less visible than cars and defensive 

Al Hydeman of the Motorcycle Safety Foundation coaches ET3 Kevin Jordan, stationed 

onboard USS George Washington, after he 

completed a SMART ride. 

SMART’s video monitor breaks down all the 

training opportunities that occur during the 

ride and grades the trainee. Hydeman is able 

to explain how the scenario might have been 

managed more safely. He can also show riders where their strengths lie. 

driving is that much more important for two-wheeled riders.

The coach gets a printout of the ride, so he or she can 

tell how fast the motorcyclist was going, whether their 

stops were smooth or abrupt, whether the turn signal was 

used, and many other important aspects of safe riding.

“Using the coach controls, we can show him how to 

maneuver more safely and then put him into a second, 

more challenging ride, based on his needs.”

Gentle scored an overall ‘A’ on his ride, performing 

very well. He’s been riding for four years, but said he still 

learned something important from using SMART.

“You can’t assume anything out there on the road. 

This is good for raising awareness.”

Each Honda SMART costs about $5,000, and the Naval 

Safety Center is considering purchasing several to use during safety fairs and stand downs throughout the fleet. 

Photo by Dan Steber.

18 Smart Ride Spring 2008 
ou’ve got your brand 

new bike. You hop on 

and catch a glimpse of 

yourself in your matching candy apple red 

jacket and shiny helmet. Admire 

yourself. You know you look good. 

Now take a second to imagine what 

you’d look like with some angry red 

road rash—Not so hot. Now is not the 

time to just climb on and twist the 

throttle. Nothing but lots of practice is 

going to make you a competent motorcyclist, but here’s a refresher on the 

basic controls and procedures to make 

your motorcycle go and stop when 

you want it to.

Controls

Throttle – Located on the right 

handgrip, it controls engine speed. 

Use your right hand to roll the throttle 

on, with the top of the grip rolling toward you, and off, with the top of the 

grip rolling away from you. If released 

Above: Twisting the grip adds throttle. The 

lever operates the front brake. Bottom: The 

right foot pedal operates the rear brake.

The four-fingered clutch technique. Make sure the engine cut-off switch is in 

the “on” position, turn the key, and press 

the “start” button, which is usually situated 

below the engine cut-off switch.

Basic Riding Skills

completely while rolled on, the throttle 

will spring back to the idle position.

Clutch Lever – Located in front 

of the left handgrip, it connects power 

from the engine to the rear wheel. Use 

you left hand to squeeze the clutch lever toward the handgrip to disengage 

power. Release the lever slowly away 

from the handlebar to again engage 

power to the rear wheel.

Gear Shift Lever – Located in 

front of the left footrest, it shifts the 

transmission from one gear to the 

next. Lift the lever with your left foot 

to upshift one gear at a time; press 

the lever to downshift one gear at a 

time. The lever operates as a ratchet 

mechanism: after each shift, the lever 

returns to its “home” position. The 

typical gear shift pattern, from the 

bottom to top, is 1-Neutral-2-3-4-5-

(6). Your bike may or may not have a 

sixth gear.

Front Brake Lever – Located in 

front of the right handgrip, it operates 

the front wheel’s brake. Use your right 

hand to squeeze the lever toward the 

handgrip to apply the brake.

Rear Brake Pedal – Located in 

front of the right footrest, it operates 

the rear wheel brake. Press down with 

your right foot to apply the brake.

Fuel Supply Valve – Usually located on the left side underneath the 

gas tank, it controls the flow of fuel to 

the engine. Fuel supply valves differ, 

but often include on, off, reserve, or 

prime positions. Not all modern bikes 

have manual fuel supply valves.

Ignition Switch – May be located 

in or near the instrument pod in front of 

the handlebars, or in some cases on the 

left side below the seat. Common key 

positions are on, off, park, and lock.

Choke – May be located near the 

left handgrip, below the instrument 

panel, or below the left side of the 

gas tank. Put the choke on for cold 

starts, then off once the engine has 

warmed up. Some fuel-injected bikes 

Spring 2008 Smart Ride 19
to retract the side 

stand. Adjust the 

mirrors so that 

you have a good 

view of the roadway behind you.

Starting the 

Engine

FINE-C is 

a useful term to 

help you remember the pre-start 

checklist. Run 

through this 

checklist before 

every single ride.

Fuel – Turn 

the fuel supply valve to the on position. Note that many newer motorcycles use an electronic or automatic fuel 

supply valve, which does not need to 

be turned on and off manually.

Ignition – Insert the key and turn 

the ignition switch to the on position.

Neutral – Shift the transmission 

to neutral. Check the neutral light 

(green light indicates neutral) and 

roll the motorcycle forward or back a 

few inches with the clutch released to 

double-check that the motorcycle is 

not in gear.

Engine Cut-Off Switch – Make 

sure the engine cut-off switch is set to 

the run position.

Choke and Clutch – There are 

two “Cs” – choke and clutch. Set the 

choke, if necessary, according to 

the engine temperature (on for cold 

starts). Squeezing the clutch lever 

when you start the engine is a good 

idea as an added safety precaution. 

Some newer motorcycles incorporate a 

cut-off switch into the clutch mechanism that requires the clutch lever to 

be squeezed in before the motorcycle 

can be started.

The Friction Zone

The friction zone is your friend. 

It’s the area of clutch lever travel that 

starts where the clutch just begins to 

transmit power from the engine to the 

rear wheel and ends just before the 

clutch is fully engaged. Find the fricdon’t have a choke.

Engine Cut-Off Switch – Located near the right handgrip, it 

shuts off the engine immediately. 

Use your right thumb to move it to 

the run or off positions.

Electric Start Button – Located near the right handgrip. Use your 

right thumb to press the button to 

start the engine. (Be sure to hold in 

the clutch lever as you do so.)

Additional controls and equipment include the high/low beam 

headlight switch, turn signal 

switches, the horn button, speedometer and tachometer, and indicator lights for neutral, high beam, 

turn signals, and oil pressure. In 

some cases, the bike may also have 

a kick starter. 

Mounting the Motorcycle

Mount the bike from the left 

side. This is especially important 

when the motorcycle is parked on 

its side stand and therefore leaning 

to the left. Mounting a bike from 

the right side could upset the balance of the bike on the side stand 

and bring it crashing down on top of 

you. When mounting the bike, hold 

the handlebars with both hands and 

squeeze the front brake to keep the 

motorcycle from rolling forward. 

Swing your right leg over the seat, 

and once you are straddling the bike 

and holding it upright, use your foot 

tion zone, get to know it, and spend 

some quality time there. If you do, 

stalling your motorcycle will seldom 

be a problem. The friction zone is 

the result of partially engaging the 

clutch. While partially engaged, the 

clutch slips slightly, allowing you to 

precisely control the amount of power 

transmitted from the engine to the 

rear wheel.

Finding the friction zone and 

learning to use it well takes practice. With the engine running and 

transmission in neutral, squeeze the 

clutch lever and shift the motorcycle 

into first gear by pressing down on 

the gear shift lever. With both feet 

planted firmly on the ground, slowly 

ease out the clutch lever until you 

hear the engine begin to slow and 

feel the bike creep forward. You 

have now entered the friction zone. 

Squeeze the clutch lever in, roll back 

and practice again until you can consistently and predictably locate the 

friction zone every time you release 

the clutch.

Be aware that the engine may 

stall if you do not apply some throttle 

or if you release the clutch too far. If 

you feel the engine beginning to stall, 

just squeeze the clutch lever in again. 

Using too much throttle can cause the 

bike to jump forward. It may help to 

add some throttle as you get more adept at controlling the clutch lever. Proper use of the friction zone and properly 

modulating the throttle and the clutch 

to smoothly engage the engine without 

stalling or jumping forward are the 

skills necessary to ride a motorcycle 

smoothly away from a stop.

Riding Posture

Maintaining good posture is an 

important and often overlooked component of safe riding. It will help you stay 

comfortable over long distances and 

enhance your control of the motorcycle 

by helping your body stay relaxed.

Sit on the motorcycle in an upright position with your back straight, 

your head up, and your eyes focused 

on the road ahead. Ride with your 

knees and elbows turned inward. 

Continued on pg. 25.

20 Smart Ride Spring 2008
Motorcycle Safety Foundation’s Key Messages

Get trained and Licensed 

Wear protective gear – all the gear, all the time – including a 

helmet manufactured to the standards set by the DOT

Ride unimpaired by alcohol and drugs

Ride within your own skill limits

Be a lifelong learner by taking refresher rider courses


Get the Training!

Find a Motorcycle Safety Foundation RiderCourse near you.

Call 1-800-446-9227

Navy Training Coordinators:

Naval Safety Center

375 A. Street

Norfolk, VA 23511-4399

www.safetycenter.navy.mil

Donald Borkoski

 (757) 444-3520 Ext. 7135

Email: donald.borkoski@navy.mil

Dale Wisnieski

(757) 444-3520 Ext. 7180

Email: dale.wisnieski@navy.mil

Marine Corps Training Coordinator:

CMC Safety Division

2 Navy Annex

Room 2122

Washington, D.C. 20380-1775

Peter J. Hill

(703) 589-8444

Email: peter.j.hill@usmc.mil
Mount your motorcycle from the left side, holding the handlebars with both hands and squeezing the 

front brake. To dismount, select a fi rm, fl at surface, squeeze the front brake lever and lower the side 

stand. Then lean the motorcycle onto the side stand and swing your right leg over the seat. 

They should be comfortably bent—not 

locked—so you can quickly move or 

respond to changes in riding conditions. Keep both feet on the footrests 

at all times so you can quickly position them to operate the rear brake 

pedal or shift lever. Grip both handgrips firmly with your wrists pointed 

up. Make a conscious effort to keep 

your body limber and relaxed. Tensed 

muscles will cause you to tire quickly 

and will reduce your ability to respond promptly to any obstacles that 

might appear in your path. Remember, 

the better your skills, the more relaxed 

you’ll be.

Shifting Gears

Most motorcycles are equipped 

with manual transmissions, which just 

like manual transmissions in cars, allow you to change gears to match engine speed with road speed. This keeps 

the engine operating where it’s most 

responsive. Most motorcycles have either five or six gears: The lower gears 

are used at lower speeds and higher 

speeds call for higher gears.

As you go faster, you will need 

to shift your motorcycle into a higher 

gear. Shift up into a higher gear well 

before the engine rpm reaches redline, 

which is the maximum recommended 

engine speed, as shown on the tachometer. As a rule, shift up soon 

enough to avoid over-revving the engine, but not so soon as to cause the 

engine to lug. 

Use a three-step process to 

smoothly upshift into a higher gear. 

First, simultaneously roll off the 

throttle and squeeze in the clutch 

lever. Once the throttle is closed and 

the clutch is completely disengaged, 

the second step is to lift the shift lever firmly until it stops, engaging the 

higher gear. Step three is to smoothly 

ease out the clutch lever to restore 

power to the rear wheel, simultaneously rolling on the throttle. Don’t 

forget to drop your foot away from the 

shift lever, allowing the shift lever to 

reset to its “home” position.

Downshifting is done either in 

conjunction with slowing the motorcycle or when you want to quickly raise 

the rpm and make more power available for acceleration (when passing 

another vehicle, for example). Downshifting is slightly more involved than 

upshifting, because you have to work 

carefully to closely match engine 

speed to road speed. If you haven’t 

slowed sufficiently, it is easy to overrev the engine when you shift into the 

next lower gear. Also, selecting a lower gear and releasing the clutch too 

quickly (or not rolling on the throttle 

enough) can have an effect similar 

to stomping on the rear brake, and 

could lock the rear wheel and cause it 

to lose traction. Extra practice at low 

speeds will help you master downshifting smoothly and consistently.

As with upshifting, downshifting 

is a three-step process that involves 

modulating the clutch and throttle 

to precisely match engine speed with 

road speed. Begin the downshifting 

process by rolling off the throttle and 

squeezing the clutch lever simultaneously. Once the clutch is disengaged 

and the throttle is closed, shift the 

motorcycle into a lower gear by pressing down on the gear shift lever. 

Once the shift is completed, ease out 

the clutch lever slowly and roll on the 

throttle. Again, remember to release 

your foot and allow the shift lever to 

reset for the next shift. Shifting to a 

lower gear can cause an effect similar 

to applying the brakes. This is called 

engine braking. To use engine braking to your benefit when decelerating, shift down one gear at a time 

and ease the clutch lever through the 

friction zone. Keep the clutch in the 

friction zone until engine speed stabilizes, then ease the lever out all the 

way until ready for the next shift. 

Shutting Down

Shifting and stopping a motorcycle can be somewhat complicated 

tasks, requiring several steps and the 

careful coordination of multiple controls. This isn’t the case with shutting 

off the motorcycle. It’s easy!

After coming to a complete stop, 

and with your legs firmly supporting 

the bike, reach up with your thumb 

Photo by Dan Steber.

Spring 2008 Smart Ride 25
The top image shows the upshifting 

technique, using your boot to nudge 

the shifter upwards. The bottom image 

depicts a downshift, where the shifter 

is pushed toward the pavement.

Don’t forget to flip up the kickstand! Most 

modern bikes will automatically shut off 

if the kickstand is still down when the 

bike is in gear. If your bike doesn’t have 

this feature, make sure you retract the 

kickstand by literally kicking it up with your 

left boot and allowing it to tuck underneath 

the underbody of the bike.

and move the engine cut-off switch to 

the off position. Make this your habit, 

so you can easily and instantly find 

the engine cut-off in an emergency. 

Turn off the ignition switch, and, if 

your motorcycle is so equipped, turn 

the fuel valve to the off position.

Dismounting

Select a firm, flat surface on 

which to park. Be sure the motorcycle 

is in first gear because this lessens 

the chance of it rolling while parked. 

Squeeze the front brake lever and 

lower the side stand. Lean the motorcycle onto the side stand and swing 

your right leg over the seat—all 

while squeezing the front brake lever. 

Turn the handlebars toward the side 

stand to enhance stability and engage the fork lock. 

Stopping

Your motorcycle is equipped 

with both front and rear brakes. 

To achieve optimum braking performance, both the front and rear 

brakes must be used in unison. 

However, because of the way that 

a motorcycle’s weight distribution 

changes under deceleration, the 

front brake provides 70 percent or 

more of the motorcycle’s stopping 

power. It is essential to familiarize 

yourself with the operation of your 

motorcycle’s front brake, to learn to 

trust the front brake, and to use the 

front brake (in conjunction with the 

rear) every single time you stop.

To bring a motorcycle to a complete stop, you’ll need to use both 

hands and both feet together. Squeeze 

the front brake lever and press down 

on the rear brake pedal at the same 

time, varying the amount of force depending on how quickly you need to 

stop. At the same time you apply the 

brakes, squeeze in the clutch lever and 

downshift toward first gear. If you 

wish to use engine braking to further 

slow down, gently ease out the clutch 

between downshifts.

Even though the full braking force 

of each wheel may not be required 

for normal, planned stops, it is important to get into the habit of using 

both brakes at all times so you will 

respond reflexively should a panic 

situation arise. Remember to pay attention to what your hands are doing 

in a braking situation: Roll off the 

throttle when slowing to prevent overrevving the engine; to prevent lugging 

or stalling when slowing, remember to 

squeeze the clutch lever.

Changing Direction

Once you’re familiar with the friction zone and have mastered the mechanics of forward motion, the next 

skill to learn is turning the motorcycle. To understand the art of changing direction on a single-track vehicle, 

break down the turn into four basic 

steps: Slow, look, press, and roll.

Slow – Take care of slowing and 

braking before you enter a turn. Reduce speed before the turn as needed 

by rolling off the throttle and applying both brakes smoothly and evenly; 

downshift the motorcycle if necessary.

Look – Turn your head and look 

through the turn. Use your eyes to 

help with directional control – the 

motorcycle tends to follow your eyes 

and go where you’re looking. Turn 

your head, not just your eyes, nor just 

your shoulders. Keep your eyes up and 

moving, level with the horizon. Doing 

all of this together will help you move 

smoothly through the turn.

Press – To turn, the motorcycle 

must lean. To initiate a lean, press 

forward on the handgrip corresponding to the direction of the turn. In 

other words, press left, lean left, go 

left; press right, lean right, go right. 

This is called counter-steering and it’s 

how all single-track vehicles, like motorcycles, change direction.

Of course, higher speeds and 

tighter turns require a greater degree 

of lean. In normal turns, the rider 

(and passenger) should lean with the 

motorcycle into the direction of the 

turn. In slow, tight turns, lean the 

motorcycle only and keep your body 

straight and upright. In very tight 

turns (a U-turn in a parking lot, for 

instance), you might actually need to 

lean your upper body slightly toward 

the outside of the turn. This technique 

is called counter-weighting.

Roll – Roll on the throttle gently through the turn, maintaining a 

steady speed or slightly accelerating. 

Gently rolling on the throttle through 

the corner will settle the suspension 

and help to stabilize the bike through 

the corner. Avoid rapid deceleration in 

the corner, because it can overwhelm 

front tire traction. Also avoid rapid 

acceleration, which can cause the rear 

tire to lose traction or cause you to 

run wide in the turn. 

26 Smart Ride Spring 2008
oo often, that’s what 

the drivers of fourwheeled vehicles say 

after a collision with 

a motorcyclist. Usually, the motorcyclist is not at fault, 

but that doesn’t stop him or her 

from suffering the consequences. 

It’s a scary thought, but there are 

things riders can do to be more 

visible on the roadways and reduce 

their chances of being involved in 

accidents.

Defensive driving is a good idea for everyone, but for 

bikers, it’s essential. Remain in full control of your motorcycle at all times and remain constantly aware of your immediate riding environment. 

This isn’t always easy. Roadways can be chaotic places full of stressed-out, distracted, and exhausted drivers. 

That said, there are things you can do to remain aware of 

your riding environment and anticipate what’s going to 

happen on the road ahead. Start by improving your ridHe Came

Out of

Nowhere

Photo by Dan Steber. Modified.

Spring 2008 Smart Ride 27
ing skills to the point where they become second nature, 

leaving your mind free to concentrate on monitoring your 

surroundings. Then take active steps to make yourself 

more visible to other motorists, to position yourself properly 

in the traffic flow, and to accurately evaluate and respond to 

potential hazards.

Making yourself visible, gathering visual information, 

positioning your motorcycle within the traffic flow, reading and evaluating traffic patterns and making predictions 

–these are the tools that will help keep you off the back 

end of some unwitting motorist’s bumper.

Visibility

Unfortunately, most motorists aren’t looking for motorcycles. Being seen means not only making yourself and 

your motorcycle visible, but also riding in a manner that 

clearly communicates your presence and intentions. Here 

are some strategies to help you accomplish this.

Dress in a way that makes you conspicuous. Choose 

brightly colored clothing and a light-colored helmet so you 

stand out. Consider reflective material on your clothing, 

helmet and even on your motorcycle. This is especially 

helpful in low-light situations.

Many states require that you ride with your motorcycle’s headlight illuminated, even during the day. Even if 

it’s not a law in your state, you should always ride with 

the light on. This is one of the easiest and most effective 

ways to stand out in the eyes of oncoming traffic. Most 

bikes have headlights that automatically come on when 

the ignition is switched on.

Communication is an important part of visibility. Use 

your turn signals when changing lanes and if it’s safe, 

consider using hand signals to further clarify your intentions. Don’t forget to cancel your signals after you’ve completed your lane change. We all know that leaving them on 

is annoying, but it’s also misleading and dangerous.

Signaling is not enough. You also need to doublecheck with a glance over your shoulder to check your blind 

spot before changing lanes.

Don’t rely too heavily on your horn. It can be a useful 

tool but many motorcycle horns cannot be heard over traffic noise or surround-sound car stereos.

Even if you dress in canary-yellow and signal your 

intentions each and every time, there are still going to be 

instances when car drivers don’t see you. That’s why you 

have to drive defensively, anticipate potentially dangerous 

outcomes, and prepare to avoid them.

SEEing – Search, Evaluate, Execute

In addition to being seen, actively seeing potential hazards is equally important. Proper seeing goes beyond noticing what is immediately in front of you, and includes everything to the side of you and even what is happening behind 

you. Scan 360 degrees around you. The key to successful 

scanning is to always keep your eyes moving. Roving eyes 

notice more. Your goal should be to scan about 12 seconds 

ahead of you. This means looking ahead to an area that it 

will take you 12 seconds to reach. This gives you time to 

prepare for situations before they materialize immediately in 

front of you. 

Cars, trucks and pedestrians should receive the 

most of your attention, but don’t completely neglect the 

Wearing brightly colored protec- tive jackets or vests will increase 

your visibility on the road.

Photo by Dan Steber.

28 Smart Ride Spring 2008 
environment you will be passing through, including objects 

on the roadside and on the road itself. Look for problem 

spots: Trees can provide shade for damp or icy spots, shadows can hide debris, potholes can spread gravel on the road. 

Remain aware of the movement of traffic around you 

– including behind you. Maintain extra alertness at intersections, where other vehicles might cross your path. Other 

hot spots include side streets, driveways and parking lots 

where other vehicles enter the flow of traffic. Pay special 

attention to children and animals on the side of the road 

since both can act unpredictably. 

Gathering Visual Information

Almost all of your impressions of the surrounding traffic scene come through visual inputs, so it makes sense 

that your eyes are your first and best line of defense. To 

use them as effectively as possible, it helps to know a little 

bit about how your sight process operates. You have two 

distinct fields of vision: central and peripheral. 

Central vision is what you use to see something 

clearly. We’ll skip the science behind this, but central vision is what you’re using to read these words. It’s also 

the type of vision you use to focus on specific elements 

of traffic, to estimate distance, or to view other specific 

details on the road.

Peripheral vision encapsulates everything that is visible beyond your central vision. You can’t focus directly 

on things that pop up in your peripheral vision, but it 

helps you detect items approaching from anywhere other 

than right in front of you – and in emergency situations, 

will draw your attention to objects of importance that you 

aren’t presently looking at, like a deer leaping across the 

interstate or a car swerving from the right. It’s important 

to keep your eyes moving because although your total field 

of vision is 180 degrees or more, your eyes effectively only 

use a small portion of this visual field.

As your eyes check out the scene, there’s so much to 

see. The challenge is to filter everything so that your eyes 

pick up on the important stuff without being distracted 

by the unimportant things. Distractions and unnecessary 

fixations are one of the primary dangers faced by riders.

Proper scanning is a systematic movement of your eye 

over the visual scene. Keep your eyes moving, but with a 

purpose. Concentrate your vision on your intended path of 

travel. Don’t let your eyes focus for too long or otherwise 

become distracted by unimportant objects.

Make a concerted effort to keep your eyes up to keep 

your field of vision open far ahead of you.

Force your eyes to move frequently, so that you receive 

a wide field of visual information and remain alert to any 

possible hazards.

Lane Positioning

Being seen can depend on how you position yourself 

within the land and in the flow of traffic. The main idea 

is to create a comfortable space cushion, separating yourself and your motorcycle from the other vehicles on the 

roadway. This will help you see emerging traffic situations 

more quickly and clearly and will also give you more time 

and space to respond to any hazards that pop up.

Lane Placement

There is no one best lane position – the best position is 

constantly changing depending on traffic conditions. Here 

are just a few of the considerations that could affect your 

choice of lane position:

• Increasing your ability to see

• Increasing your visibility to other motorists

• Avoiding other motorists’ blind spots

• Avoiding surface hazards

• Protecting your lane from other drivers

• Communicating your intentions

• Avoiding windblast from other vehicles

• Providing escape routes

• Setting up for and negotiating curves

In general, the best place to be in the flow of traffic 

is near the center of your lane. This position makes you 

most visible to drivers in front of you, and also leaves a 

reasonable cushion on both sides for you to respond to any 

encroachment by surrounding traffic. There are some situations where you’ll want to avoid the center of the lane, 

such as busy intersections, where oil drippings from cars 

can make this part of the lane especially slippery. In these 

cases, it might be best to ride in the left portion of the lane. 

Another time to use the left position is when getting ready 

to pass. However, there are also times to avoid the left track, 

such as when riding in the lane to the right of a large truck. 

The left track would make you less visible to the truck driver 

and more susceptible to the truck’s windblast. In this case, 

move to the far right edge of the lane, or slow down until 

you’re no longer beside the truck. Avoid riding in another 

vehicle’s blind spot. As it says on the back of most 18 wheelers—if you can’t see a driver’s face in his mirror, he can’t 

see you either.

Following Distance

The general rule, on good road surfaces in ideal conditions, is to maintain a minimum two-second space cushion 

between yourself and any vehicle in front of you. Two seconds of space should allow enough time to respond accordingly if the vehicle ahead makes a sudden stop. 

But how do you know how much space equals two 

seconds? A technique called “fixed-object count-off” can 

help. Pick a fixed object ahead of you, such as a street 

sign, a light pole, or a painted roadway line. As soon as 

the vehicle in front of you passes the object, start counting. One-thousand-one, one-thousand-two ... If you 

haven’t yet reached the fixed object by the time you finish 

your second count, you’ve left enough distance to meet 

the two-second minimum. Remember, two seconds is the 

minimum. There’s no law saying you can’t maintain a 

greater distance. 

Spring 2008 Smart Ride 29
T-CLOCS, refers to Tires and Wheels, Controls, Lights and 

Electrics, Oil and Other Fluids, Chassis and Chain, and Stands.

ven the most careful and 

conscientious rider can’t 

ride safely if his or her 

machine is one bump 

away from falling apart. 

Proper care and maintenance of your 

motorcycle requires frequent attention. Attending to every aspect of your 

motorcycle’s well-being and making 

sure that all its components and systems are maintained in proper working order will go a long way toward 

allowing you to ride confidently. The 

reliability of modern-day machines 

has made getting stranded on the 

roadside an increasingly rare event, 

but any motorcycle can develop 

problems. Usually, you can discover 

a potential problem developing and 

have plenty of time to fix it before it 

leads to a crisis on the highway.

Lots of bikers come to really love 

their motorcycles in a way that few 

four-wheeled drivers ever experience. 

They lavish them with care and attention. Even if your feelings about 

your bike don’t run that deep, regular 

maintenance and preventive care 

are crucial. To help you through a 

quick and easy pre-ride inspection of 

critical components and systems, the 

Motorcycle Safety Foundation recommends using the acronym T-CLOCS, 

which refers to Tires and Wheels, 

Controls, Lights and Electrics, Oil and 

Other Fluids, Chassis and Chain, and 

Stands.

Tires and Wheels

T stands for tires and wheels, perhaps the most important components of 

a motorcycle with regard to safe riding. 

The small contact patches provided by 

the front and rear tires are the motorcycle’s only source of traction. Even 

the slightest compromise of quality or 

condition of your tires can be enough to 

overwhelm this contact patch and bring 

a good ride to a bad end.

Check the air pressure in your 

tires regularly, and adjust it according 

to the manufacturer’s recommendations. Maintaining proper air pressure 

is important for tire life and tire performance. Incorrect pressure can lead 

T-CLOCS

Proper tire pressure will promote better handling and long tire life. 

Photo courtesy of the Motorcycle Safety Foundation.

30 Smart Ride Spring 2008 
to uneven tire wear. Low pressure 

can cause excessive heat buildup or 

instability – especially at high speeds 

or when carrying heavy loads – and 

can affect available traction. If, under 

normal loads and operation, a tire 

needs air added every time you ride, 

you should assume there is a small 

puncture, slow leak, or other problem 

that can cause a failure. Take care of 

this ASAP.

Regularly inspect the tire tread 

depth to ensure that adequate tread 

remains. Most modern tires have 

small wear bars molded into the 

tread grooves. When these wear bars 

are exposed, the tread is worn out 

and the tire should be replaced. Although it may look like enough tread 

remains, it won’t be enough to maintain traction in wet conditions, and 

worn tires are thinner and easier to 

puncture.

Flat tires happen to everyone. 

There’s no sure way to predict when 

you might run over a nail, but you 

may be able to spot other signs of impending tire failure or blowout. Before 

each ride, take a moment and glance 

over the tires’ tread for any evidence 

of wear, cuts, embedded objects, bulges, or weathering.

While inspecting the tires, put 

the motorcycle on its center stand or 

otherwise raise the wheels securely 

using a shop stand or jack so that 

they can spin freely. Check the wheels 

as well. Most modern motorcycles 

are equipped with cast-spoke wheels. 

Make sure that these wheels are free 

of cracks or dents, especially at points 

where the spokes join the rim and 

along the bead (outer edge) portion 

of the rim. If your bike uses spoked 

wheels, periodically check to make 

sure the spokes remain tight. Regardless of the type of wheel, make sure 

the rim is straight and round.

While the wheels are up and off 

the ground, check the wheel bearings 

for wear by grasping the tire at the top 

and bottom, then pushing and pulling 

on it. There should be no free play or 

audible noise from the hub or axle. 

Inspect the bearing seals for cracks or 

discoloration.

Inspect the brakes as well. Make 

sure that the calipers are mounted securely to the forks in the front and the 

swingarm in the rear. Spin the wheels 

to confirm that the rotors pass freely 

through the calipers without dragging, which might indicate a worn or 

stuck piston, a warped rotor, or other 

problems with the braking system. 

Check the brake pads or brake shoes 

for wear.

Controls

C stands for controls: the levers, 

the throttle, and all the cables and 

hoses associated with the motorcycle 

controls. You use these to communicate with your motorcycle, and it is important to maintain these systems in 

order to ensure that your bike responds 

quickly and correctly to your inputs.

Start your inspection with the 

levers. Make sure they are tight in 

the mounts but still pivot freely, and 

make sure the levers are not cracked 

or bent. A bent lever might restrict the 

available travel of that lever, possibly 

preventing complete engagement of 

the clutch or brakes. Also inspect the 

cable ends, looking for signs of fraying. Look carefully at cable routing 

and make sure there are no kinks. 

Control cables usually fray before 

breaking completely, and catching a 

frayed cable ahead of time can keep 

you from being stranded on the side 

of the road. A rough or gritty feel at 

the lever can be a warning sign that 

the cable it is attached to is beginning to fray. Also look at the cable 

ends, which occasionally come off 

unexpectedly. If you are touring long 

distances, it might be a good idea to 

carry spare cables in case one breaks. 

Spare cables are cheap compared to 

the expense of being stranded.

Pay special attention to the throttle 

cable routing, to make sure that it 

doesn’t pull when the handlebars are 

turned. The throttle should rotate 

freely on the handlebars and snap 

closed when it is released. Most modern motorcycles are equipped with two 

throttle cables – a second cable pulls 

the throttle closed, and both of these 

cables need to be working. If you notice 

Controls includes all levers, cables, hoses and the throttle. It’s important to maintain 

these systems to ensure your bike does what you want it to do.

Spring 2008 Smart Ride 31
the throttle sticking open, try to close it 

manually. If closing the throttle manually works, you will need to service 

that second cable so that the throttle 

automatically snaps closed when the 

grip is released. It the throttle should 

stick while you’re riding, you’ll have 

to use the clutch and brakes to control 

your speed as you safely maneuver out 

of traffic to where you can stop and 

shut down the engine using the engine 

cut-off switch.

Most disc brakes are hydraulically 

actuated and use hoses instead of 

cables. Make sure to inspect these regularly for cracks, cuts, leaks, bulges, 

chafing, or other deterioration. When 

you are checking out the brake levers 

and hoses, it’s also a good time to 

check the function of the brake light 

switches. Make sure the brake light 

illuminates when the front brake lever 

is squeezed in, or the rear brake pedal 

is pressed down.

Lights and Electrics

L is for lights and electrics. Electrical components are relatively sensitive to vibration and weather, which 

makes it important to inspect these 

systems regularly. Electrical failures 

can be particularly difficult to diagnose or deal with along the side of the 

road, so this maintenance is essential.

Your headlight should work properly and be aimed correctly on both-low 

and high-beam settings. The same applies to your brake and taillight. Make 

sure the brake light illuminates with 

both the front brake lever and rear 

brake pedal. Regularly check the function of your other electrical switches, 

including turn signals, horn, and engine cut-off switch, to make sure that 

these are working the way they should. 

Inspect all electrical wiring for cracks, 

fraying, mounting, and chafing of the 

insulation. Look out for disconnected 

or broken wires and repair them when 

necessary.

Your bike will not run without 

electrical current, so keep the battery 

fully charged and properly serviced. 

If you don’t ride very often, or if you 

Keep the chain at the proper tension and alignment (refer to your owner’s 

manual) and lubricate it often. Photo courtesy of the Motorcycle Safety 

Foundation.

The oil in most street bikes lubricates the engine as well as the transmission, so it’s doubly important to make sure the oil level is correct. On newer 

bikes, this is easily done through the sight glass, pictured above. The sight 

glass typically features low and high marks. Photo courtesy of the Motorcycle 

Safety Foundation.

Your headlight should work properly and be aimed correctly on both-high and 

low-beam settings.

32 Smart Ride Spring 2008 
store your motorcycle during a deployment, you may want to invest in a 

trickle charger to keep the battery in 

fully charged condition.

Many new motorcycles are 

equipped with sealed, maintenancefree batteries. If yours is not, and still 

uses a serviceable battery, make sure 

to check it frequently and keep the 

electrolyte level topped off. Regardless 

of the battery type, keep the terminals 

clean and tight and make sure the 

battery leads and grounds also remain 

clean and tight.

Oils and Other Fluids

O refers to oil and other fluids. Always keep the engine oil filled to the 

proper level and change it at regular 

intervals, according to the manufacturer’s recommendations as detailed 

in your motorcycle owner’s manual. 

Changing the engine oil is probably 

the most important service that you 

can perform on your motorcycle for 

engine longevity. After a few thousand miles of use, the molecules in 

motor oil break down and the oil loses 

its ability to properly lubricate the engine parts. This is important because 

in a motorcycle engine, the engine oil 

also lubricates the transmission and 

clutch. The added stress of lashing 

gears and the additional heat caused 

by the clutch puts additional strain on 

the oil molecules, making regular oil 

changes that much more critical.

Engine failure occurs in times of 

especially high stress – over-revving, 

overloading, or when vital lubricants 

run too low or are too old and worn 

out to do the job. Fortunately, engine 

failure almost never occurs unannounced. Usually, there are symptoms, such as poor starting, sluggish 

throttle response, and unusual noises. 

In addition to engine oil levels, also 

check all engine surfaces and gaskets 

to catch any oil leaks. Don’t forget to 

check the levels of brake fluid and any 

other hydraulic fluids as well.

If your motorcycle is liquid cooled, 

inspect the coolant level at the reservoir or recovery tank. Be sure to check 

the radiator and hoses for cracks or 

other signs of leaks or potential failures. Don’t neglect your fuel system. 

Replace your fuel filter regularly before it becomes clogged with dirt. If 

your bike has a fuel valve (petcock), it 

should turn from on to reserve to off/

prime smoothly. A leaky petcock will 

allow fuel to flow into the carburetors 

and possibly overfill or flood them. 

If the O-rings inside the petcock are 

particularly degraded, some bikes may 

even leak if it is left in the off position.

Chassis and Chain

The second C in T-CLOCS refers to 

chassis and chain. Inspect the frame to 

look for cracks or other signs of trouble. 

Raise the front wheel off the ground and 

move the handlebar from side to side, 

checking to make sure that the forks 

move freely and easily, without any evidence of side play or any knocking noises. Raise the rear wheel and inspect for 

signs of play in the swingarm by pushing and pulling on the rear wheel. Once 

both ends are back on the ground, check 

the suspension for smooth movement. 

Pay special attention to fork and shock 

seals to make sure that no hydraulic 

fluid is leaking out.

The vast majority of motorcycles 

use chain drive, and motorcycle 

Cartoon by Ricardo Nunes.

Before you launch, your preflight 

should include your PPE, 

your machine, 

and your plan.

Spring 2008 Smart Ride 33
Military Sport Bike Course Coming Soon!

drive chains require frequent attention in order to provide long life and 

optimum service. Keep the chain at 

proper tension and alignment, and 

refer to your owner’s manual for 

instructions on how to adjust this 

system properly and how often to 

perform the inspection. Depending 

on riding conditions, you may need 

to lubricate the drive chain often, as 

well. Lubricating the chain is best 

done at the end of a ride while the 

chain is still hot. The heat will help 

the lube penetrate the links better. 

When applying the lube, direct the 

stream between the plates and rollers, not down the center or against 

the sideplates.

A badly worn chain is much more 

likely to break or derail than one that 

is properly maintained, and a broken 

chain can do serious damage to the 

engine cases or swingarm, not to 

mention potentially locking the rear 

wheel and possibly causing a crash. 

Proper chain maintenance is vital. 

You’ll want to inspect the sprockets 

for wear, as well. Look for hooked or 

broken teeth, and make sure that the 

rear sprocket remains securely attached to the rear hub.

Replace your chain when you 

can pull it away from the rear 

sprocket and expose more than half 

a tooth; if it is rusted, pitted or 

cracked; if it has numerous kinked 

“tight spots”; or if the rear axle adjusters have reached their farthest 

limits. If you are unsure of your 

chain’s condition, see your dealer’s 

service technicians for advice.

Motorcycles that use belt or shaft 

final drives are usually lower-maintenance than chain-drive units, but 

these are by no means maintenancefree. Just as you would with a chain, 

regularly inspect the belt to look for 

cracking, fraying, missing teeth, or 

other evidence of impending doom. On 

shaft-drive bikes, watch for leaks at 

all seals or contact points, and make 

sure the fluid levels remain at factory 

specifications.

Stands

S is for stands, including the side 

stand and the center stand. (Not all 

motorcycles are equipped with center 

stands.) Make sure the side and center 

stands both retract fully out of the 

way when riding. Hanging stands 

can easily catch the pavement when 

leaning into a corner and cause you 

to wipe out. To prevent this situation, many modern motorcycles are 

equipped with an engine cut-off that 

prevents the engine from running if 

the stand is down while the transmission is in gear. 

Make sure the side and center stands retract 

fully out of the way when riding.

Because you asked for it, the Navy and Marine Corps delivered. 

A new motorcycle course designed specifically for sport bike 

riders is coming your way. Courses will begin June 1, 2008 

for those of you stationed in fleet concentration areas such 

as Norfolk, Jacksonville, Fla., Cherry Point, N.C., San 

Diego, Washington state and various locations in Europe 

and Japan. The course focuses on the handling and 

maneuvering characteristics specific to lightweight, 

high performance machines and will soon spread 

across the globe. Check your local safety office 

for details or contact the Naval Safety Center at 

757-444-3520 Ext. 7180 or 7135.

34 Smart Ride Spring 2008 
ave you ever seen a 

star NFL wide receiver 

jump up to catch a 

pass, only to be immediately pummeled by a 

300-pound linebacker with bone-jarring speed and power? Now imagine 

he took that hit without wearing any 

protective padding. Pro ball players 

wouldn’t dream of taking that kind of 

risk. Riding motorcycles also requires 

protective equipment and failure to 

wear it isn’t just reckless, it’s stupid. 

Many experienced riders say it’s not 

a question of if, but when you will 

be involved in some type of accident. 

Most are minor, but even minor inciPersonal Protective Equipment

Dress for the Crash

dents can be deadly without the right 

protection.

Proper riding gear for riders 

and passengers should include, at a 

minimum, over-the-ankle boots, long 

pants, a riding jacket, full-fingered 

gloves, eye protection, and—above 

all—a helmet manufactured to meet 

U.S. Department of Transportation 

standards.

Protective riding gear is particularly important for motorcyclists because of their increased vulnerability. 

Unlike automobile drivers, who are 

surrounded by a steel cage, motorcyclists are completely exposed to the 

elements: hot and cold weather, rain, 

stones and other road debris, and 

even bugs. All of this can negatively 

affect your comfort and safety on the 

road, but proper riding gear minimizes this discomfort and danger, and 

can also save your life in the event of 

a crash or fall.

Helmets

It’s impossible to overstate the 

importance of wearing a helmet each 

and every time you ride your motorcycle. Your skull is no match for the 

pavement, even at a slow speed. Helmet technology and design have made 

helmets lighter, more aerodynamic, 

better ventilated and more comfort

Spring 2008 Smart Ride 35
Proper PPE includes an approved helmet, 

bright-colored jacket, full fi ngered gloves, 

and over-the-ankle boots.

able than ever. While most states 

have mandatory helmet laws, other 

states consider it a matter of personal 

choice. Regardless of what state you 

are riding in, ALL NAVY AND MARINE 

CORPS motorcyclists are required to 

wear helmets, on or off base, every 

single time.

Choosing the Right Helmet

Try before you buy. This is essential 

since every head is shaped differently 

and every type of helmet shell has a 

slightly different shape. Properly fitting 

the helmet is important. A properly fitted helmet won’t irritate your head or 

slip and move on your head when 

fastened. Fit is important for both 

comfort and safety. 

Modern helmets come in three 

basic styles: Full-face helmets, 

three quarter or open face helmets, and partial coverage, or half 

helmets. A full-face helmet offers 

the highest level of protection, 

providing coverage for all of 

your head, including your 

chin and jaw. A movable face shield protects your face from 

wind and debris 

and can be easily opened with 

one hand to 

provide access 

and additional 

ventilation. A 

three-quarter 

helmet is constructed from 

the same basic 

components but 

doesn’t offer the face 

and chin protection of fullface helmets. Half helmets 

are similar to three-quarter 

versions but expose more of 

the lower jaw, sides, and back of your 

head.

Some riders find half and threequarter helmets more comfortable and 

less restrictive, but it is important to 

note that these helmets offer less protection than full-face versions.

Standards and Ratings

There’s really only one thing to 

keep in mind when it comes to effective motorcycle helmets. Make sure 

there’s a DOT or Snell certification 

sticker somewhere on the inside or 

outside of the helmet. This signifies 

that the helmet meets or exceeds all 

relevant safety test standards of the 

Department of Transportation and/or 

the Snell Memorial Foundation, a private helmet testing group.

When to Replace a Helmet

Helmets are designed to take the 

damage that your skull would otherwise sustain in a crash. Therefore, 

even after a single impact, it will lose 

effectiveness and should be replaced. 

Aside from impacts, age can also affect a helmet’s ability to protect. Repeated use can compress the comfort 

fit liner, and ultraviolet rays can break 

down the outer shell. It’s a good idea 

to replace your helmet every few years 

because helmet technology continues 

to advance. Regularly upgrading your 

helmet will keep you outfitted with 

the best possible protective gear.

Footwear

Over-the-ankle boots provide the 

highest level of protection for the feet, 

ankles, and shins, and are least likely 

to come off in a crash. Sturdy boots 

will protect your feet from stones and 

other road debris kicked up from the 

highway, can protect you from burns 

caused by hot exhaust pipes, and will 

help you operate the shift lever and 

brake pedal more effectively. Rubber 

soles provide good grip on the pavement when you’re stopped and will 

help keep your feet on the footrests 

while riding. Boots come in street 

riding (touring) and competition (racing) styles. Street riding boots usually include some padding over the 

toe, ankle, heel and shin areas, and 

are engineered for comfort and style 

off-the-bike as much as for protection 

during a crash. Racing boots are designed for maximum protection and 

usually feature hard armor over the 

toe and other critical areas. They are 

usually quite rigid for support, and 

as such, can be uncomfortable when 

walking around off the bike.

Gloves

A good pair of motorcycle-specific gloves performs several functions: providing protection from sun, 

wind and cold; helping to maintain 

a secure hold on the handgrips; and 

in the event of a crash, minimizing 

cuts, bruises and other damage to 

your hands.

Gloves are available in a variety of styles, ranging from lightly 

padded models to racing types with 

Even minor incidents 

can be deadly without 

the right protection.

Photo by Cpl. Athanasios L. Genos 

36 Smart Ride Spring 2008 
Cartoon by Ricardo Nunes.

 No one is 

aiming a lance at 

you, but you still 

 need your armor.

hard-plastic armor covering all possible 

contact points. Obviously, a fully-armored racing glove is going to provide 

the best protection, but something like 

this might be uncomfortable for daily 

use. Lightly padded gloves provide 

more freedom of motion while only 

sacrificing a minimum of protection. 

Choose the type that is most suitable 

for your intended use.

No matter which type you 

choose, it’s important to get a good 

fit. An overly bulky glove will make 

it difficult to operate the motorcycle’s controls. Gloves that are too 

tight will restrict circulation and 

cause your hands to lose feeling or 

be overly sensitive to temperature. 

A good-fitting glove should be snug, 

without restricting circulation or 

movement.

Make sure your gloves have a secure strap system to keep them on in 

the event of a crash. Gloves are available in different weights for different 

seasons.

Clothing

Motorcycle clothing has become 

a high-tech industry. Your goal when 

shopping for motorcycle clothing 

should be comfort, protection, and 

visibility—in that order. Just as there 

are different types of motorcycles 

geared toward different sorts of riding, there are different types of motorcycle clothing geared toward different sorts of riding. 

Once you’ve determined what 

style of jacket and pants to buy, it’s 

time to explore the features. First, 

consider what material to select—

leather or textiles. In general, leather 

offers better abrasion resistance and 

breathability, while textile garments 

are more weatherproof and better in 

cold temperatures—not to mention 

the fact that they’re usually cheaper 

than leather.

More important than the material 

is the fit of the protective garment. 

The fit determines both the comfort 

and protection. Fit varies from person 

to person and application to application, making it essential that you try 

before you buy. Make sure that your 

riding clothes fit snugly—more so 

than other clothing you’re accustomed 

to wearing.

Not only must the gear fit well, 

but it also must fit in the riding 

position. For example, the fit of a 

sport jacket is tailored for a sportbike riding position. This is critical, 

because if the front of a jacket is 

too long, when you lean over on the 

bike, it will push the shoulders up. If 

the back is too short, it will pull up 

and expose your back. Therefore, on 

sport jackets, the front is cut shorter 

than the back, which feels all wrong 

walking around the showroom but 

makes perfect sense when you sit on 

the bike.

Choose brightly colored clothing 

to make yourself more visible. If you 

wear dark clothing, consider a reflective vest over your jacket. It’s also a 

good idea to affix reflective tape to 

garments you wear when riding.

Hearing Protection

This last piece of PPE is often forgotten, but whenever you ride, even 

on a quiet motorcycle with a full-face 

helmet, your ears are exposed to wind 

noise. Long-term exposure can cause 

irreversible hearing damage. Properly 

worn hearing protection can reduce 

wind and engine noise and allow you 

to hear important sounds like car 

horns and sirens. There are a variety 

of styles to choose from. 

Spring 2008 Smart Ride 37
hen we think of motorcyclists, the romantic movie 

image of a strong, silent 

loner often comes to mind. 

Get real. Bikers are social 

animals! Motorcycle clubs have sprung up 

all over the place, and group rides have 

become increasingly popular. Many enjoy 

riding as part of a small group, or even in 

a large, organized rally. This can be a great 

way to share your love of motorcycling with 

like-minded people, but it does bring a few 

new challenges because you’re constantly 

watching and interpreting the people riding 

with you, as well as watching the road.

Group rides can be categorized into three 

basic types: destination-oriented rides, routeoriented rides, and benefit-oriented rides. A 

destination-oriented ride focuses on a specific 

place, like a restaurant. Route-oriented rides 

tend to be more free-form, usually without 

a fixed timetable, endpoint, or plan, and is 

organized only for the joy of riding together. 

This type of ride is ideal for small groups of 

38 Smart Ride Spring 2008 
similarly matched riders. Benefit-oriented rides are usually organized to raise money for a charity or other special 

interest group. These rides are typically large in scale, with 

plenty of publicity. 

There’s no room for egos when you’re on the road with 

other people. You must take into account the needs and 

abilities of the other riders – especially their riding experience, skill levels, and general comfort on the road and 

around other motorcycles. Everything from where to position your bike on the roadway to effective communication 

takes on a larger significance when you’re riding in close 

proximity to others. 

Arrive Prepared

Nothing will annoy your group more than waiting 

for you to get your act together. Arrive on time with a 

full tank of gas and everything you will need to complete 

the ride. Introduce yourself to the group leader and also 

the sweep rider, who brings up the rear. If there’s a route 

map, study it and make note of any fuel, meal, rest, or 

lodging stops. Ask what hand signals will be used during 

the ride and remember to use them. Riding in a group can 

be overwhelming, but preparing properly will help you 

avoid problems.

Resist the temptation to show off! Most likely, you’ll 

only end up looking like a dope, and you could put others 

at risk. Ride responsibly and impress others with your cool 

head and self-control.

Riding in Formation

A group’s riding formation on the road plays a huge 

part of maintaining safety during a group ride. The staggered riding formation includes maintaining a proper 

space cushion between motorcycles so that each rider has 

plenty of time and space to maneuver and to react to any 

hazards that may come up.

Compared to a single-file line, a staggered formation 

takes up less space on the highway, is easier for cars to 

see, and protects the lane better to lessen the chance of the 

group being split up by other traffic. Side-by-side formations are never a good choice, as these greatly reduce the 

space cushion to the side. If the guy to your left wipes out, 

chances are good you will, too.

A staggered formation can be tight or loose, depending 

on traffic. During heavy traffic, a tighter formation is best, 

keeping riders together with traffic. However, keeping the 

group together isn’t as important as safety.

In good riding conditions, you should keep a two-second following distance between you and the rider directly 

in front of you. In a staggered formation, the leader rides in 

the left third of a lane, while the next rider stays at least one 

second behind in the right third of the lane, with the rest of 

the group following in the same pattern behind. If you’re doing it right, the third rider is two seconds behind the leader, 

but only one second behind the second rider.

In some situations, a single-file formation is best. 

If you need more room to maneuver, such as on a curvy 

road, or under poor visibility conditions, entering or leaving highways, or on roads with poor surfaces, it’s a good 

idea to ride single file.

No matter what formation you’re riding in, pay attention to the riders in front of and behind you. Periodically 

Spring 2008 Smart Ride 39
check the riders following in your rearview mirror. If you 

see someone falling behind, slow down and allow them to 

catch up. Think of the group as a rubber band – the line of 

riders may stretch out or tighten up from time to time, but 

overall, if everyone uses this technique, the group should 

be able to maintain a fairly steady speed without anyone 

feeling pressured to ride too fast to catch up.

Intersections

They can be deadly – whether or not you’re with a 

group. At least you have increased visibility when riding 

with others, but there are important things to remember 

about intersections when you’re part of a pack. 

When turning at intersections with traffic light turn 

arrows, tighten the formation to allow as many riders as 

possible to pass through while still maintaining a single 

file or tightly staggered formation. Unfortunately, if your 

group is more than a few bikes strong, there’s a good 

chance some will be caught by the red light. Discuss beforehand what to do if you’re separated by a light. Plan to 

stop at a predetermined point up ahead to keep riders from 

feeling pressured to run the light or speed to catch up.

At lights without a turn arrow, proceed with caution 

and in single file, turning only when it’s safe and legal. Lead 

riders should slow down after turning to allow the group 

to reform after everyone is safely through the intersection. 

Remember – blocking an intersection without permission or 

without an appropriate escort is illegal in most circumstances.

At red lights where you intend to proceed straight 

through without turning, it may be appropriate to close formation and sit side-by-side while waiting to proceed. When 

the light turns green, the rider on the left leaves first, then 

the following riders, in order to reestablish the staggered 

formation and space cushion as the riders depart.

Interstates and Freeways

High speeds and the increased potential for hazards 

make riding in a staggered formation essential on freeways and interstates. Enter these roadways single file and 

form up after safely merging. Once on the highway, be 

alert for entering and exiting cars that might cut through 

your formation. You might be tempted to close up your 

formation, but resist this urge and maintain your space 

cushion. Exiting an interstate requires a single-file formation 

that allows you to better merge and respond to whatever is at 

the end of the exit lane.

Passing

Group passing dynamics differ, depending on the 

type of roadway. Whether on a freeway or interstate, it’s 

Photo by Master Sgt. Jim Varhegyi, USAF

40 Smart Ride Spring 2008 
acceptable for the group to pass as a unit, provided this 

pass is safe and legal. When the opportunity arises, the 

lead rider should signal the lane change once it has been 

determined that the group can pass as a unit. The other 

riders should then follow this lead and signal one at a 

time and move into the next lane.

Passing slower-moving traffic on a two-lane roadway presents a greater challenge. In this situation, the 

members of the group should pass one at a time. The 

leader should signal his or her intention first and then 

pull out and pass only when it’s safe. After the pass is 

completed, the leader should return to the left lane position and continue at a speed that leaves room for the 

next rider to tuck in between him or her and the vehicle 

being passed. The next rider should then move up to the 

left position and wait for a safe chance to pass – each 

rider should only pass when it feels safe. 

Separation Anxiety

Signals, traffic and mechanical problems are only a 

few of the reasons that you might find yourself separated 

from the group. Don’t panic! Your group should have a preplanned procedure in place to regroup. Don’t feel pressured 

to catch up, especially if it means breaking the law or riding beyond your skills. It’s always preferable to finish a 

group ride alone than to wind up in trouble.

If you have plans to separate from the group before 

the end of the ride, make sure to notify the group leader in 

advance. Make sure the rest of the group knows when you 

plan to depart, so they know you haven’t had a problem 

and aren’t in need of assistance. When you do depart, the 

rest of the riders should adjust the formation to maintain 

the proper space cushion and following distance. This may 

require some riders to change their position to the opposite 

side of the lane.

Trouble!

Reacting to hazards in the roadway is especially important in a group. For this reason, maintaining the proper 

space cushion and following distance throughout the ride 

is essential to allow riders to adjust their lane positions if 

you encounter debris. If your staggered formation comes 

across a hazardous area, such as a construction zone, it 

is best to transition to single file. Avoid riding over debris 

unless there’s no other choice. Not only could you damage 

your tires or bike, but you also risk throwing debris into 

another rider’s path. Not cool. 

If a group member does have a problem with roadway hazards, the riders behind should stop, including 

the designated sweep rider at the back of the pack. It’s 

best for the riders ahead of the incident to continue on 

to the next scheduled stop area, since turning around 

and doubling back could cause additional problems. It’s 

the responsibility of the sweep rider to assess the situation and, if it appears there will be a delay, send another 

rider ahead to inform the rest of the group. If medical 

assistance is necessary, use a cellphone to call 911 right 

away. 

Spring 2008 Smart Ride 41

Photo by A1C James Bell.
Know Your Group Ride Hand Signals 

Stop - arm extended straight 

down, palm facing back.

Slow Down - arm extended straight out, palm facing down.

Speed Up - arm extended straight out, palm facing up.

Follow Me - arm extended 

straight up from shoulder, 

palm forward.

You Lead/Come - arm extended upward 45 degrees, palm for- ward pointing with index finger, swing in arc from back to front.

Single File - arm and index 

finger extended straight up.

Double File - arm with index 

and middle fingers extended 

straight up.

Hazard in the Roadway - on the left, point with left hand; 

on the right, point with right foot.

Pull Off - arm positioned as for right turn, forearm 

swung toward shoulder.

Highbeam - tap on top of 

helmet with open palm down.

Fuel - arm out to the side 

finger pointing to tank.

42 Smart Ride Spring 2008 
treet Motorcycles – These are motorcycles designed for paved roads. They feature smooth tires 

with a light tread pattern, and most are capable 

of speeds up to 100 mph.

Cruisers – These motorcycles mimic the style of American machines from the 1930s to the early 1960s, although 

they have benefited from advances in metallurgy and design. The riding position always places the feet forward, 

and usually the hands are up and the spine erect or leaning back slightly. Some riders find this more comfortable 

for long-distance riding. Some cruisers may have limited 

turning ability because of low-slung design. 

Sport Bikes – Sometimes called performance bikes or 

“crotch rockets,” sport bikes are typically much smaller and 

lighter than cruisers and are essentially consumer versions of 

the motorcycles used in production-based forms of motorcycle 

sport road racing. The bikes are designed to emphasize speed 

and handling. The riding position places the feet toward the 

back, the hands low, and the spine inclined forward. Sport 

bikes are capable of high speeds, with great stability in corners. They can be difficult to manage by the inexperienced.

Touring Bikes – Although any motorcycle can be 

equipped for touring, manufacturers have created specific 

models designed to address the needs of long-distance 

touring and commuting riders. Touring bikes typically 

have large wind screens, offering greater protection 

against wind and weather, large capacity fuel tanks, and a 

more relaxed, upright seating position than sport bikes. 

Naked Bike – Also known as a standard, or street 

bike, this is the basic motorcycle stripped down to its fundamental parts. The emphasis is on function, performance, 

and ergonomics, rather than aerodynamic body panels 

and exaggerated riding positions common on sport bikes. 

These bikes are good for beginners, since they don’t have 

much plastic to get scratched up in falls.

Scooter – Motor scooters are similar to motorcycles 

and are also designed to be ridden on the road. Scooters 

usually have smaller wheels, automatic transmissions, 

small engines, and a step-through configuration, allowing the rider to sit with both feet on a running board and 

knees together. Scooters are seen all over the roads of European countries.

Off-Road Bikes – There are several different types of 

off-road motorcycles designed and specialized for specific 

functions. They are typically light weight and have smaller 

engines than road-going bikes. They have high ground 

clearance and a simple, rugged body construction. Their 

large wheels have knobby tires, often clamped to the rim 

with rim-locks. Off-road motorcycles are usually specialized for a variety of off-road motorcycle sports. 

Types

 of

Motorcycles

Photo by Allan Amen.

Spring 2008 Smart Ride 43
f you’re already an off-highway motorcycle enthusiast, you know all about the fun and excitement 

of riding on dirt, instead of pavement. Your motorcycle is designed for many types of off-road conditions, but it’s really only as capable as you are. 

As your riding skills increase, so will your sense of pride, 

satisfaction, and enjoyment.

There are three basic types of offhighway motorcycles:

Dual Purpose motorcycles come 

equipped with highway-approved lighting and turn signals, Department of 

Transportation (DOT)-approved tires, 

a U.S. Forest Service (USFS)-approved 

spark arrester, and conform to Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) noise 

and exhaust emission standards. These 

motorcycles are designed for use on 

paved roads, as well as off-highway.

Enduro models usually have less 

complete or no lighting, have knobby 

tires, and meet EPA noise standards and 

USFS spark arrester requirements. Enduro 

motorcycles are for off-highway use only.

Motocross models have no lighting 

equipment, do not meet EPA noise or 

emission standards or USFS spark arrester requirements. These are high-performance motorcycles designed for use 

by highly-skilled riders in closed-course 

competition. Unmodified, they cannot 

legally be ridden on public land.

If you’ve just purchased your dirt 

bike, you’re probably anxious to take it 

for a test run. Before you do, make sure 

you and your machine are prepared. 

Part of being prepared means wearing 

the proper personal protective equipment. This is largely the same gear you 

would wear when riding a street bike, 

but if you’re not wearing a full-face 

helmet, you should also wear mouth 

protection. You can get pants with 

kneepads and jerseys with chest and shoulder protectors 

for extra off-road protection.

Before you ride, make sure to give your bike a pre-ride 

inspection. Also, carry a tool kit with you. Include a few 

spare parts, such as a spark plug or two, a couple of chain 

master links, some wire and tape, and possibly a headlight 

bulb. Carry emergency items, such as a strong tow rope, 

drinking water, emergency tire-repair kit, weatherproof 

matches, a bit of food, and a first-aid kit.

When you’re ready to hop on and hit the trails, make 

sure you know the land you’re riding on and what your machine can do. Stay on existing trails and away from dangerous slopes and impassable swamps. Watch for sharp bumps, 

holes, ruts and other obstacles, and be able to identify muddy, 

sandy, rocky, dusty, and wet conditions, so you can adjust 

your speed and riding style accordingly.

Learn to read the terrain as you ride. 

Look well ahead on the trail, so you know 

what’s coming and are prepared to react 

long before you get there. Stay alert at all 

times, and know how to adjust your speed 

to trail conditions and visibility.

You will encounter some tough situations, such as climbing a hill. Some 

hills are just too steep, so use common 

sense. When approaching a hill, keep 

both feet firmly on the footrest, shift into 

low gear, and speed up before ascending 

the hill. For small hills, shift your body 

weight forward. For steep hills, stand on 

the footrests and lean well over the front 

wheel in order to shift as much weight 

forward as possible. 

If the hill is too steep and you must 

downshift to prevent stalling, shift 

quickly and smoothly. 

When going down a hill, keep your 

feet firmly on the footrests, point the 

bike directly downhill, transfer your 

weight to the rear, shift into low gear, 

and apply brakes to reduce speed.

Part of the fun of trail riding is closely 

spaced bumps that create a roller coaster 

effect when riding up one bump and down 

the next one. Approach these at a slow or 

moderate pace, use your arms and legs 

as shock absorbers, and establish a good 

rhythm over the bumps. Advanced riders 

can modify this to stand on the footrests 

with their weight rearward. This allows 

the front wheel to skim over the bumps. 

If you find yourself in water or 

mud, your brake application will have to be much more 

gradual to avoid slipping and sliding. Dry the brakes after 

a deep-water crossing by applying light pressure to them 

while riding until they return to normal. 

These are only a few of the conditions you will 

face off-road. The Motorcycle Safety Foundation offers a one-day course that is fun and informative. Visit 

www.dirtbikeschool.com for more information. 

Takin’ It Off Road

44 Smart Ride Spring 2008
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