Handtools for Trail Work

2005 Edition

Handtools for Trail Work

2005 Edition

United States 

Department of

Agriculture

Forest Service

Technology &

Development

Program

2300 Recreation

February 2005

0523–2810P–MTDC

In cooperation

with Handtools for Trail Work

2005 Edition

United States 

Department of

Agriculture

Forest Service

Technology &

Development

Program

2300 Recreation

February 2005

0523–2810P–MTDC
—Cover photo: The 1924 Trail Gang in the Flume, Courtesy of the 

 Appalachian Mountain Club.

You can order a copy of this document using the order 

form on the FHWA’s Recreational Trails Program Web site 

at <http://www.fhwa.dot.gov/environment/rectrails/trailpub

.htm>.

Fill out the order form and submit it electronically. 

Or you may email your request to:

ReportCenter@dot.gov

Or mail your request to:

Szanca Solutions/FHWA PDC

13710 Dunnnings Highway

Claysburg, PA 16625

Fax: 814–239–2156

Produced by:

USDA Forest Service, MTDC

5785 Hwy. 10 West

Missoula, MT 59808-9361

Phone: 406–329–3978

Fax: 406–329–3719

Email: wo_mtdc_pubs@fs.fed.us

Web site: http://www.fs.fed.us/eng/pubs

Notice

This document was produced in cooperation with the 

Recreational Trails Program of the U.S. Department of 

Transportation’s Federal Highway Administration in the 

interest of information exchange. The U.S. Government 

assumes no liability for the use of information contained in 

this document.

The U.S. Government does not endorse products or manufacturers. Trademarks or manufacturers’ names appear in 

this report only because they are considered essential to 

the objective of this document.

The contents of this report reflect the views of the authors, 

who are responsible for the facts and accuracy of the data 

presented herein. The contents do not necessarily reflect 

the official policy of the U.S. Department of Transportation. 

This report does not constitute a standard, specification, or 

regulation.
Richard Hallman

Forester (retired)

USDA Forest Service

Technology & Development Program

Missoula, MT

TE92A17–Technical Services, Recreation

Original edition February 1988 (8823–2601–MTDC)

Revised February 1997

Updated February 2005

Updated November 2012

The Forest Service, United States Department of Agriculture (USDA), has developed this 

information for the guidance of its employees, its contractors, and its cooperating Federal 

and State agencies and is not responsible for the interpretation or use of this information 

by anyone except its own employees. The use of trade, firm, or corporation names in this 

document is for the information and convenience of the reader and does not constitute an 

endorsement by the Department of any product or service to the exclusion of others that 

may be suitable. 

The U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) prohibits discrimination in all its programs and 

activities on the basis of race, color, national origin, age, disability, and where applicable, sex, 

marital status, familial status, parental status, religion, sexual orientation, genetic information, 

political beliefs, reprisal, or because all or part of an individual’s income is derived from any 

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disabilities who require alternative means for communication of program information (Braille, 

large print, audiotape, etc.) should contact USDA’s TARGET Center at (202) 720-2600 (voice 

and TDD). To file a complaint of discrimination, write USDA, Director, Office of Civil Rights, 

1400 Independence Avenue, S.W., Washington, D.C. 20250-9410, or call (800) 795-3272 

(voice) or (202) 720-6382 (TDD). USDA is an equal opportunity provider and employer.

Handtools for Trail Work

2005 Edition

Handtools for Trail Work

2005 Edition

United States 

Department of

Agriculture

Forest Service

Technology &

Development

Program

2300 Recreation

February 2005

0523–2810P–MTDC

In cooperation

with Handtools for Trail Work

2005 Edition

United States 

Department of

Agriculture

Forest Service

Technology &

Development

Program

2300 Recreation

February 2005

0523–2810P–MTDC
ii

The Missoula Technology and Development Center 

(MTDC), working with trail crews throughout the United 

States, has standardized a comprehensive document on 

the use and maintenance of handtools involved in trail 

work. Information collected from industry experts, from 

interviews with trail crew members, and from extensive 

bstract

literature and market research on the subject provides the 

text for this document. It stresses safe and efficient tool 

use. It describes each tool and presents nomenclature and 

maintenance procedures, including sharpening techniques 

and rehandling methods. The document is intended for 

both experienced and inexperienced trail crews.
iii

cknowledgments

This document was prepared by William R. Hutcheson 

and Dale Mrkich, former forestry technicians at MTDC. 

The work was accomplished under the direction of Jerry 

Oltman, former MTDC forester and project leader.

Special thanks to MTDC staff Bert Lindler, Sara Lustgraaf, 

Brian Vachowski, and Gary Hoshide for helping develop 

this revised edition.
iv

The tools shown here are those used most often by the 

U.S. Department of Agriculture, Forest Service trail crews. 

They are categorized into tools for sawing, chopping, 

grubbing, digging and tamping, pounding and hammering, 

bout This Document

lifting and hauling, peeling and shaping, and sharpening 

and rehandling. Each tool is described along with helpful 

techniques for use and maintenance.
v

Abstract ________________________________________ ii

Acknowledgments________________________________iii

About This Document _____________________________iv

Introduction _____________________________________ 1

Safe Trail Work ___________________________________ 3

Tools for Sawing _________________________________ 5

Tools for Chopping ______________________________ 13

Tools for Grubbing ______________________________ 17

Tools for Digging and Tamping ____________________ 21

Tools for Brushing_______________________________ 23

Tools for Pounding and Hammering ________________ 29

Tools for Lifting and Hauling ______________________ 33

Tools for Peeling and Shaping _____________________ 37

Tools for Sharpening_____________________________ 41

Tools for Rehandling_____________________________ 45

Bibliography____________________________________ 49

Appendix—American Pattern Files _________________ 51

Index __________________________________________ 53

ontents
vi
1

ntroduction

Trail work requires many kinds of handtools like saws, 

axes, picks, hammers, shovels, and grub hoes. To be safe 

and productive, trail workers must know how to select 

the best tools for the job, use them skillfully, and maintain 

them correctly. However, modern technology has caused 

a gap in our handtool knowledge. Most trail tools have 

become uncommon in our everyday work world, which 

contributes to accidents, low productivity, and frustration.

This manual should help reduce accidents and increase 

production. It is intended for Forest Service employees, 

volunteers, and others who do trail work. It provides tips 

for using and maintaining common trail tools. Proper use 

and maintenance of handtools contributes to safe and 

efficient trail work and to a better trail system.
2

Introduction
3

afe Trail Work

Keys to productive, safe, trail work are sharp tools, proper 

tool use, team work, and awareness of hazards. Such 

knowledge cannot come from a manual. Ask experienced 

crew members for help. Work as a team. Watch for 

hazards to other crew members. Alert each other to 

unsafe tools and hazards. Productive, safe crews depend 

on each member being alert, informed, and caring.

There are general safety rules to observe when using 

handtools. Survey the environmental hazards surrounding 

each task and use proper personal protective devices 

like hardhats, gloves, and safety glasses. Select the right 

tools for the job. Carefully inspect their condition before 

you use them. Make sure handles are sound, smooth, 

and straight; heads are tight; and cutting edges are sharp.

Avoid transporting tools loose in vehicles. Use tool boxes. 

Place tools in sheaths, especially if they have sharp 

cutting edges. Load and unload tools with care. Always 

use gloves. Pass tools so others avoid grasping a cutting 

edge. Never throw a tool.

Be aware of nearby workers. On the trail, carry tools 

by holding them at your side and downhill, with blades 

forward and the handles behind. If you should slip, 

drop the tool to the side to prevent falling on the blade. 

Designate a central drop point for tools near the worksite 

so tools are less likely to be lost. Mark handles with a 

small strip of bright orange paint for easy visibility.

You need training to use a crosscut saw. Your training, 

experience and—in some cases—level of certification, 

can allow you to buck trees already on the ground or to 

undertake the more advanced (and hazardous) business 

of felling standing trees. Be sure you are properly trained 

and certified before cutting either standing or fallen trees. 

Remember that using an ax exposes you to similar 

hazards.

At day’s end, identify tools that need maintenance and 

schedule time for repairing or replacing tools. In the field, 

store tools safely and out of the weather.
4

Safe Trail Work
5

ools for Sawing

Asymmetric saw

Symmetric saw

Felling crosscut saw

Bucking crosscut saw

1—A cut made with flat-ground teeth tends to bind when cutting 

under compression.

2—A cut made by taper-ground teeth is less likely to bind.

1 2

Types of crosscut saws.

Crew members using a bucking crosscut saw.

Crosscut Saws

There are two types of crosscut saws. Symmetric 

crosscut saws are designed for a sawyer at each end, 

and asymmetric saws require only one sawyer. They 

are heavier so they can be pushed and pulled without 

buckling. There are two basic patterns for symmetric 

crosscuts—felling crosscuts are light, flexible, and have 

concave backs that conform easily to the arc of the cut 

and the sawyer’s arm. The narrowed distance between 

the teeth and back helps sawyers wedge the cut quickly. 

Felling saws are usually preferred by trail crews. Bucking 

crosscuts have straight backs and are heavier and 

stiffer than felling saws. Their weight helps the saw cut 

faster and the stiffness prevents buckling on the push 

stroke when one person saws. Most asymmetric saws 

are bucking saws. Symmetric saws are pulled by each 

sawyer. There is no push stroke.

The points of most crosscut saw teeth lie on the arc of a 

circle. These cut easier than a straight-tooth saw and are 

almost as simple to maintain. Crosscut blades are ground 

flat or ground with a taper from front to back. A flat-ground 

blade displays uniform thickness throughout. Flat-ground 

saw teeth require more “set” than taper-ground saw teeth.
6

A crosscut saw sheathed with a piece of fire hose.

Velcro 

strip

Sheathed saw

Velcro 

strip

Top edge—exaggerated for clarity.

• Each line represents uniform thickness—tapering from thicker at the teeth 

to thinner at the top.

• The teeth are a uniform thickness.

CRESCENT TAPER-GROUND SAW

Top edge

The teeth vary in thickness.

STRAIGHT TAPER-GROUND SAW

End 

view

End 

view

Before sawing a log with a crosscut, “swamp” the area to 

remove materials that could interfere with the cut. Next, 

check the “lay of the log” to determine what will happen 

when the cut is made. Saw from the uphill side unless you 

are placing an undercut on a standing tree. Remove loose 

bark from the line where the saw will pass. Avoid getting 

the saw into the dirt at the end of the cut. If necessary, 

place a piece of bark under the log or dig it free under the 

cut. Make final strokes with one end of the saw so only 

end teeth will dull if you slip.

When carrying a saw, lay it flat across one shoulder 

with the teeth guarded and facing away from the neck. 

Carry the saw on the downhill shoulder. Grasp the front 

handle from under the blade. Remove the rear handle to 

prevent snagging on overhanging limbs. Transport saws 

at the rear of a line of workers. Use blade guards made 

of sections of rubber-lined firehose slit lengthwise with 

Velcro fasteners to facilitate removal. Saws need extra 

protection when they are transported in a vehicle. They 

should be secured between pieces of plywood cut to 

blade width, or otherwise protected. Store saws straight. 

Either hang them or lay them flat. Storing saws in a bent 

position can bow the saw. Before storing, the blade should 

be coated with a protect-ant to prevent corrosion. Never 

store a saw in a wet sheath.

A sharp crosscut is easy to operate, but a dull or 

incorrectly filed saw is a source of endless frustration. 

Quality crosscut saw filers are increasingly difficult to find. 

Good instruction for crosscut saw filing is still available, 

however. We recommend The Crosscut Saw Manual by 

Warren Miller (Tech. Rep. 7771–2508–MTDC, rev. 2003). 

The manual discusses in detail how a saw works and 

offers experience-tested methods for choosing, using, and 

maintaining a saw. Copies are available from MTDC.

Taper-ground saws vary from thick-at-the-teeth to thinat-the-back so their teeth require less set. Taper-ground 

saws work well for trail jobs because they begin cuts 

quickly and are slower to bind than flat-ground saws.For 

all-around trail use, a taper-ground felling crosscut is very 

effective. Taper-ground saws are often called crescent, 

precision, segment, or arc-ground saws.

One-person saw blades vary from 3 to 41

⁄

2

 feet and these 

saws weigh 4 to 5 pounds. Two-person saws generally 

have 6-foot blades and weigh about 8 pounds. 

Many modern crosscuts have solid ends. That is, the 

teeth do not extend to the ends of the blade. For finishing 

some cuts, however, you will often need a saw with teeth 

continuous to both ends. A saw with continuous teeth is 

needed to cut a log in dirt or deep duff, for example.

Tools for Sawing
7

Tree sap may bind the crosscut blade in the cut. To 

prevent this, lightly lubricate the blade with a citrus-based 

solvent. If a flask is stoppered with a cork that has been 

grooved lengthwise, the blade can be evenly coated with 

a film of citrus-based solvent by inverting the flask and 

whisking the cork along the blade surface. An alternative 

would be a squirt bottle of citrus-based solvent that could 

spread a small stream of the fluid along the blade.

A leaning tree will have compressed fibers on its 

underside. In this case, a cut on that side could quickly 

bind a saw even after it has been undercut. If this 

happens, saw as much as possible, remove the saw, and 

chop away the severed wood. A down log can be under 

compression if it is only supported on the ends. A cut 

made in the middle will bind the saw as the weight of the 

log closes the kerf. Sometimes a cut can be continued by 

driving a wedge into the cut behind the saw. If the saw still 

binds, one sawyer should “underbuck” the log from the 

bottom. Remove one handle to reduce the chance of the 

blade “kinking” if the severed log carries it to the ground. 

Plant an ax in the log so the handle can support the back 

of the saw. Slightly notch the handle for a saw guide. 

Linseed oil in the notch allows the saw to run easily and 

minimizes handle wear. The flexible hickory holds the saw 

in the cut.

The cutting teeth of a crosscut saw sever the fibers on 

both sides of the kerf. The raker teeth cut like a plane, 

peel the fibers, and collect them in sawdust gullets 

between the teeth. From there they are carried out of the 

cut. A properly sharpened crosscut cuts deep and makes 

thick shavings.

Placement of the handles also determines how the saw 

cuts. For a vertical cut with the teeth pointing down and 

the handles up, the pull stroke will be easier the farther 

toward the end of the handle the hands are placed. 

Pointing the handles down reverses the situation. For 

saws that have two holes on each end, changing the 

handle position from the lower to the upper hole will have 

the same effect as moving the hands several inches up 

the handle. 

Another good reference that presents time-tested 

techniques for using and maintaining crosscut saws is 

Saws That Sing: A Guide to Using Crosscut Saws (Tech. 

Rep. 0423–2822P–MTDC) by David Michael. Copies are 

available from MTDC.

Tools for Sawing

Hand chain saw

Bow Saws

Bow saws are useful for clearing small downfall and 

for limbing. Modern bow saws come in many sizes and 

consist of a tubular steel frame designed to accept 

replaceable blades. Blades detach by loosening a wing 

nut or releasing a throw clamp. The clamp-type saw does 

not require nuts and bolts that are easily lost. Unless 

spare nuts or bolts are carried along, the saw becomes 

useless. Blade lengths can vary from 16 inches to 36 

inches. Saws weigh from 1 to 4 pounds. Let the saw do 

the work. Apply a little down-ward force with each stroke. 

When the bow saw is used for one sawyer, lean slightly 

over the frame and let your weight provide some downward pressure with each push of the blade. Forcing the 

blade into the cut may bind or break the blade. Use as 

much of the length of the blade as possible; the saw will 

cut smoother and stay sharp longer.

Hand Chain Saws

The hand chain saw weighs only 2 pounds compared to 

11 to 16 pounds for a conventional crosscut saw. The saw 

showed promise during early testing, but over time, it has 

not proved to be a suitable replacement for a traditional 

crosscut saw. It may be appropriate for occasional or 

emergency use. It is safer to carry and easier to pack.
8

Bow saw

Bow saws effectively clear trails.

The Sandvik all-purpose bow saw has a hardened 3

⁄

4

-inch by 

 36-inch blade, and a Swedish steel frame with a knuckle 

 guard. The blade changes easily and has a tension lever. Its 

 weight is 21

⁄

4

 pounds.

The Sandvik Buckmaster is used for heavy-duty bucking jobs. 

 The precision 3

⁄

4

-inch blade never needs refiling. The frame is 

 Swedish oval tubing, with a knuckle guard and a tension lever 

 for quick blade change. It weighs 3 to 31

⁄

2

 pounds.

The Sandvik Swifty is designed for light pruning and landscape work. 

 The tension-mounted blade is 3

⁄

4

 inch wide and 21 inches long, and 

 features a peg-tooth design. The quick-action tension lever facili- 

 tates blade changing. It has a Swedish steel frame with a knuckle 

 guard, and weighs 11

⁄

4

 pounds.

A small bow saw is used for pruning, limbing, landscaping, camping. 

 The 21-inch raker tooth blade is quickly and easily replaced using 

 a tension lever. The strong tubular steel frame is designed to allow 

 use of the entire cutting blade. It weighs 11

⁄

2 pounds.

The Portex self-storing Swedish bow saw features a 3

⁄

4

- by 16-inch 

 Swedish steel blade with raker teeth for cutting firewood, limbs, or 

 lumber. It has an aluminum frame with a no-slip, plastic hand grip. 

 All parts disassemble and “nest” inside the handle, and are easy to 

 reassemble. Weight is 11

⁄

4

 pounds.

Although the bow saw is designed for one person, two 

people can saw large logs more effectively. Two people 

operate the bow saw like a crosscut—each works only on 

the pull stroke.

The teeth are needle-sharp, so wear gloves when sawing 

and keep hands clear of the cut and the blade. Carry bow 

saws by your side with the blade pointed down. Sheathe 

the blade with small-diameter fire hose and Velcro 

fasteners or plastic blade guards when not in use. Always 

carry spare parts and plenty of replacement blades on 

the trail.

Since worn blades are replaced rather than sharpened, 

maintenance consists of blade replacement, periodic 

checks to see that bolts are tight, and an occasional light 

oiling. Take care when oiling these and other trail tools. 

Too much oil can trap dirt in tool joints.

Examples:

Sandvik all-purpose bow saw

Sandvik Buckmaster bow saw

Sandvik Swifty bow saw

Small bow saw

Portex Swedish bow saw

Tools for Sawing
9

Folding Pruning Saw

Pruning saws used in trail clearing quickly limb small branches.

Tuttle tooth pruner

The Tuttle tooth pruner is a handy all-purpose saw for general 

 pruning requirements. The teeth are designed for fast 

 cutting of large limbs and firewood. The 21-inch blade is 

 47

⁄

8

 inches wide at the butt, and 11⁄

8

 inches wide at the point. 

 Weight is 11

⁄

4

 pounds.

The Meylan pruning saw combines a curved ax handle and a curved 

 saw blade that enables a sawyer of average height standing on 

 the ground to prune nearly 10 feet high. The handle is 36 inches 

 long and the blade is 16 inches long. Weight is 21

⁄

2

 pounds.

The double-edge pruner has fine teeth on one edge for light 

 trimming, and lightning teeth on the other edge for heavier 

 jobs. The blade is 21

⁄

2

 inches wide at the handle, and 29⁄

32

 inch at the point. The fine edge has eight points per inch, 

 and the other edge is 11⁄

32-inch pitch lightning teeth. Weight 

 is about 1 pound.

Meylan pruning saw

Double-edge pruner

Pruning Saws

Pruning saws are useful for limbing, some brushing, and 

removing small downfall, especially where space is limited 

and cutting is difficult. The triangular handle design limits 

cutting depth, however. Blades vary from 10 to 36 inches, 

and saws weigh from 3

⁄

4

 to 21⁄

2

 pounds.

Folding pruning saws are also handy. Some triangular 

saws collapse for carrying; other folding saws have a 

curved blade with teeth on the underside attached to a 

short handle by a bolt and wing nut. The bolt and nut 

lock the blade open for use and closed for carrying, like 

a pocket knife. These blades may be sharpened with a 

6-inch cant saw file.Blades are also easy and inexpensive 

to replace. Check the bolt often for tightness. Carry 

replacement parts.

Smokejumpers use folding saws to retrieve parachutes 

and other equipment from trees or bushes.

Pruning saws should be used, maintained, and carried 

like bow saws.

Pruning saws used in trail clearing quickly limb small 

branches.

Examples:

Tools for Sawing
10

The folding pruner has a 10-inch curved blade with a sure-grip 

 wood handle that folds to protect the cutting edge. The 

 blade has 61

⁄

2

 cross-cut points per inch, and is 115⁄

16 inches 

 wide at the butt, and 1

⁄

2

 inch at the point. Weight is 3⁄

4

 pound.

The Bartlett special utility saw has a 24-inch diamond-tooth 

 pattern blade (four points per inch). Weight is 11

⁄

2

 pounds.

The curved pruner is an excellent general-purpose pruner 

 for fast cutting of small limbs. It has an easy-to-grip, knife-

 type wood handle, and is trimmed with nickeled screws. 

 The 14-inch blade has seven reverse-rip points per inch 

 and is 11

⁄

2

 inches wide at the handle, and 9⁄

16 inch wide at 

 the point. Weight is 1

⁄

2

 pound.

The professional tree-pruning saw (heavy-duty) has extra-

 large teeth and gullets for speed cutting of large limbs. The 

 concave cutting edge is precision set and beveled-filed, and 

 cuts fast on the pull stroke. The blade is flat-ground, 26 

 inches long, 35

⁄

16 inches wide at the butt, and 113⁄32 inches at 

 the point. Weight is 11

⁄

2

 pounds.

The Skodco pruning saw has a 24-inch blade with special 

 baked-on blued finish and straight-toothed edge for cutting 

 on the pull stroke. The extra large hand hole enables easy 

 use while wearing gloves. The blade is 39

⁄

16 inches wide at 

 the butt, 13

⁄

8

 inches at the point, and has 41⁄

2

 points per inch. 

 Weight is 13

⁄

4

 pounds.

Curved pruner

Bartlett special utility saw

Professional tree-pruning saw

Pole pruning saw

When using a pole saw, be aware of other workers 

nearby. Cut only those limbs whose ends you can see. 

Clear an area for dropping limbs. When cutting larger 

limbs, make two cuts. Begin with a slight cut on the 

underside of the branch to prevent bark from tearing when 

the limb is severed from the top.

Carry pole saws by your side. Grip the handle near the 

blade and point it away from your body and down. Long 

handles may require another worker to carry the tool 

farther back on the handle. Don’t let the end of the handle 

drag on the ground.

Sharpen these saws with a slim taper file. Pole saws have 

alternately offset teeth that are beveled on both edges. 

Clamp the blade so the gullets are exposed about 1

⁄

8

-inch 

to minimize chatter during sharpening. Align the file in 

the first gullet against the front and trailing edges of two 

adjacent teeth. The file should form an angle of about 

65° with the blade. File every other gullet, then reverse 

direction and file alternate gullets at the same angle. Four 

or five strokes per tooth should suffice. File teeth equally; 

unevenly filed teeth will differ in height. The shorter teeth 

will be ineffective while cutting.

When transporting blades, provide a small protective box 

that holds approximately 10 to 15 blades vertically. Each 

blade should be separated by a 1

⁄

4

-inch plywood partition.

Pole Saws (Pole Pruners)

This saw has a curved blade attached to a long extension 

handle and is used to prune high protruding limbs. The 

teeth face backward on the underside of the blade, so the 

cut is made on the pull stroke. The curved blade helps 

prevent binding and transfers the weight of the tool to the 

branch to aid cutting. Handles typically extend from 4 to 

16 feet.

Skodco pruning saw

Folding pruner

Tools for Sawing
11

The head of this tree trimmer cuts limbs 

11

⁄

2

 inches in diameter. This heavy-duty, 

malleable, iron pruner head has a steel cable 

chain that works through a ballbearing pulley for 

a powerful, “center-cut” action. The poles are 5 to 

6 feet long. Weight is up to 4 pounds.

The telescoping fiberglass 

tree pruner has a blade that cuts limbs 

up to 11

⁄

4

 inches in diameter. The multipower 

pulley design and gear-driven lever give three 

times more cutting power. The 16-inch needlepoint saw blade cuts on the pull stroke to reduce 

binding. Telescoping fiberglass pole adjusts from 6 

feet to 12 feet. Weight is 7 pounds.

The 16-inch blade on this pole pruning 

saw adjusts to three different positions on 

the aluminum head. It has a large hook for 

pushing branches, raising ropes, etc. The builtin paint brush holder applies tree wound paint. 

The poles are 5 to 12 feet long. Weight is from 2 to 

4 pounds.

The strong, malleable iron pruner on this tree 

trimmer has a steel chain working through 

a ballbearing pulley for a powerful “center-cut” 

action. It cuts 1-inch diameter limbs. Poles vary from 

5 to 12 feet. Weight is about 3 lbs.

The cord-actuated pruner blade 

on this 15-foot long pruner cuts 

limbs up to 11

⁄

8

 inches in diameter. A 

multipower leverage system increases 

your pull on the cord 15 times for quick, 

easy cuts. The 16-inch needle point, Tefloncoated saw blade cuts on pull strokes to reduce 

binding. The three 5-foot wooden poles may be 

quickly assembled and taken apart. Weight is 7 lbs.

Pole pruning saw

Tree trimmer

Cord-actuated pruner

Tree trimmer

Examples:

Tools for Sawing

Telescoping 

fiberglass 

tree pruner
12

Wedges

Use wedges as levers to prevent the sides of a cut from 

pinching a saw blade before the cut is finished. Most jobs 

require soft wedges that will not damage saw teeth. ABS 

plastic wedges are available in different lengths, widths, 

and weights. Some have metal inserts in the heads. Other 

types of wedges are designed to be used in combinations 

for felling. Wooden wedges are no longer used by the 

Forest Service.

Select the correct wedge for the job. Replace wedges 

when they become chipped or broken. 

Tools for Sawing

Using one or more wedges keeps a saw blade from being pinched.
13

ools for Chopping

Single-bit ax

Double-bit ax

Hudson Bay

 Rockaway

Wedge

 Yankee

Connecticut

 Michigan

Puget Sound 

felling

 Forester’s

Western

 Wedge

Crown

 Peeling

————————— SINGLE-BIT PATTERNS —————————

————————— DOUBLE-BIT PATTERNS —————————

Ax head types.

Axes

The ax is a traditionally American handtool that has 

been used from Colonial times. Different head patterns 

distinguish axes from different regions.

Axes are of two basic types—single or double bit. 

Single-bit axes have one cutting edge opposite a flat 

face. Double-bit axes have two symmetrically opposed 

cutting edges. The single-bit ax is used when safety is 

paramount. Some workers prefer the double-bit ax. One 

edge is maintained at razor sharpness and the other is 

kept somewhat duller for chopping around rocks or dirt. 

Mark the duller edge with a spot of paint.

Modern axes incorporate many variations in handle 

length and head weights. Handles range from 32 to 36 

inches, and heads from 2 to 4 pounds. A wide variety of 

head patterns is available. Broadaxes are used for hewing 

bridge timbers. If properly used and maintained, axes 

are effective for removing downfall, trimming limbs along 

a trail, and for felling. The flat end of a single bit may be 

used occasionally to pound stakes or wedges, but it is not 

designed for heavy use. Prolonged use for pounding will 

loosen the head, chip the face because it is not hardened 

like a hammer face, and warp the eye, causing problems 

with rehandling and balance.

Before chopping, check for adequate swing clearance 

and remove underbrush and overhanging branches that 

might interfere. Be sure your footing is stable and secure. 

Chop only when you are clear of other workers. Stand 

comfortably with your weight evenly distributed and both 

feet planted shoulder-width apart. Measure the correct 

distance to stand from the cut by holding the handle near 

the end and stretching your arms out toward the cut. 

You should be able to touch the blade to the cut. Begin 

chopping by sliding your forward hand within 6 inches of 

the head. As you swing, your forward hand slides back 

down the handle to the other hand. Just after impact, give 

the handle a slight twist to pop severed wood out of the cut.

Proficiency with axes requires practice. In general, 

the force of the swing is not as important as accurate 

placement. You should learn to “switch hit” with the ax, 

alternating your forward hand on the handle between 

chops while maintaining a firm grip with the other.

Always chop away from your body. Stand so a glancing 

blow won’t strike you. If you must cut toward yourself, 

“choke up” on the handle with both hands and use short 

swings to give more control.

Chopping through a log requires a cut width twice the 

log’s diameter to prevent the sides from converging before 

you are through. If opposing cuts are used, make each as 

wide as the log’s diameter.

When limbing, cut on the underside of limbs and not in the 

crotch. Fewer chops are required and there is less chance 

that the ax will wedge between the branch and trunk or 

glance off. You are also more likely to chip blades because 
14

Twice the 

diameter 

of the log.

Equal to 

the 

diameter 

of the log.

Chopping through logs.

Correct Incorrect

Using an ax for limbing.

Ax

V-notch

Sharpening in the field.

Hatchet

crotch wood is dense. When chopping branches above the 

crotch, place something solid under the chopping point to 

prevent the branch from springing back and slapping you.

Carry axes by your side with the head forward. Grasp the 

handle firmly just behind the head and keep the cutting 

edge away from your body and down. Sheath all axes 

before transporting.

When sharpening, consider the job at hand. If you must 

reshape the blade, maintain the original shape as much 

as possible. Discard axes with poor profiles or cracked 

heads. Grind the blade slowly, arcing with the grinder 

toward the blade’s midpoint so it has a full-width convex 

bevel. Be careful not to hollow grind blades, which 

produces a concave blade bevel the radius of the grinding 

wheel. Finish with a mill bastard file and an ax stone.

When sharpening in the field, secure the ax so both 

hands are free. A double-bit can be lodged in a tree stump 

or log, and a single-bit can be secured with the butt end 

in a V-notch. Wear gloves on both hands, and use a file 

guard on the file. Finish with an ax stone.

An Ax to Grind: A Practical Ax Manual (Tech. Rep. 9923–

2823P–MTDC), by Bernie Weisgerber, is a practical and 

detailed handbook about axes, their history, and their 

continuing use.

Hatchets

Many trail workers include hand axes or hatchets among 

their tools. Hatchets work well for trimming small green 

stems or freshening blaze markers along the trail. They 

are easily and safely carried in belt-mounted sheaths.

Hatchet heads are usually made of heat-treated steel 

designed to accept wood or fiberglass handles. Some 

have a steel handle forged to the head. They can weigh 

from 1 to 3 pounds and handles range from 10 to 16 

inches long.

Tools for Chopping
15

A plumb hammer/hatchet is a half-hatchet with hardened, 

 tempered bit and a strong fiberglass handle. It has a 3- to 

 4-inch bit, is about 131

⁄

2

 inches long, and weighs 21⁄

2

 lbs.

A sportsman’s ax has the blade and handle forged from one-

 piece steel. The length is 131

⁄

2

 inches and the blade is 31⁄

4

 inches. Weight is 24 ounces.

The forestry ax has a 11

⁄

4

-pound head, 14-inch hickory handle, 

 and weighs 13

⁄

4

 pounds.

The tree-sounding ax has a 1

⁄

2

-pound head that is designed 

 for “sounding” trees. Foresters like its small size (10 inches 

 long; 21

⁄

2

-inch blade) for carrying in a vest or jacket pocket. 

 Weight is 1 pound.

An all-steel camper’s ax is 16 inches long and is forged from 

 one-piece steel. It has a 4-inch blade, and weighs 23

⁄

4

 lbs.

Use and maintain hatchets like regular axes. Remember 

that these tools are not designed for excessive pounding. 

Additional hazards may also exist for users because 

hatchets are single-grip tools.

Examples:

Sportsman’s ax

Forestry ax

Plumb hammer/hatchet

All-steel camper’s ax

Tree-sounding ax

Tools for Chopping
16

Tools for Chopping
17

When using the hoe, stand bent at the waist with your 

back straight and parallel to the ground, knees flexed, and 

one foot slightly forward. Hold the handle with both hands 

so the head is at an angle to your body, and use short, 

smooth, shallow swings. Let the hoe hit the ground on its 

corner. Use the ax end to chop large roots after the dirt 

has been cleared by the hoe. Always wear safety goggles 

while grubbing to guard against flying chips of rock and dirt.

Carry the Pulaski at your side. Grip the handle firmly 

near the head and point the ax end away from your body 

and down. Sharpen the cutting edge like an ax. When 

sharpening the hoe, maintain the existing inside edge 

bevel. Never sharpen the top of the hoe.

ools for Grubbing

Combination (or Combi) tool developed for firefighting, is popular for 

 trail work.

Pulaski

Pulaski head detail

Fan-shaped blade bevel 

tapered back 2 to 3 inches.

3

⁄

8

-inch bevel

Use short strokes and let the hoe hit the ground on its corner.

Pulaskis

The Pulaski combines an ax and a grub hoe into one 

multipurpose firefighting tool. Pulaskis adapt easily to 

trail work, especially for crews limited to a few tools, or 

crews with only a general idea of the job to be done. 

Combination tools are less effective than single purpose 

tools. An ax balances better and chops more safely and 

grub hoes are more efficient than Pulaskis. Pulaskis weigh 

about 51

⁄

2

 pounds. Most have a 36-inch handle.

Combi Tools

The combination or combi tool is basically a military 

entrenching tool on a long handle. It functions as a hoe, 

pick, or shovel. These tools have recently been developed 

to aid Forest Service firefighting crews. Because of their 

wide blade and longer handle, most users have found 

them less fatiguing to use than traditional tools.

Use, carry, and maintain the tool as you would a Pulaski 

or McLeod.

Combi tool
18

The combi tool serves as a hoe, pick, or shovel.

McLeod

Pick

The pick head has one chisel tip 

and a pointed end.

Wing nut

Secure the head to the frame by placing a bolt through the eye of the 

 head and fastening it with a wing nut. This allows for easy removal 

 and keeps both hands free for sharpening. 

SHARPENING 

A PICK

McLeods

The McLeod combines a heavy-duty rake with a large, 

sturdy hoe. McLeods work well for constructing trails 

through light soils and vegetation or for reestablishing 

tread along sloughed side cuts. They are inefficient in 

rocky or unusually brushy areas. The hoe edge is about 93

⁄

4

inches wide, the six rake teeth are 31

⁄

2

 inches long, and the 

handle is 48 inches long. Weight is about 5 pounds.

Carry McLeods like shovels with the head forward and the 

handle behind. Grip the handle firmly near the head and 

hold it away from your body while you walk. Sharpen the 

hoe with a mill bastard file. Maintain a 45° outside edge 

bevel. Honing the edge with a whetstone is unnecessary. 

Rake tines sometimes bend and should be straightened, 

but they are not sharpened.

Picks

Pick heads have a pointed tip for breaking hard rock by 

forcing a natural seam. They also have a chisel tip for 

breaking softer materials. Picks commonly weigh 5 to 10 

pounds and most have 36-inch handles.

When using a pick, stand comfortably with your feet 

about shoulder-width apart and one foot slightly forward. 

Grasp the handle with your forward hand near the head; 

place the other hand near the handle end. Bending over 

at the waist and keeping your back straight and parallel 

to the ground, work the pick like a Pulaski hoe with 

short, deliberate, downward strokes. Avoid raising the 

pick overhead while swinging; this wastes energy and 

creates a safety hazard because the heavy, narrow tool 

head cannot be easily controlled or directed. Always wear 

safety goggles while picking to guard against flying chips 

of rock.

An oval-tapered eye and handle end cause pick heads 

to tighten when swung, but allow a worker to remove 

handles for carrying and sharpening. Sometimes a small 

screw is screwed into the handle just below the head to 

prevent slipping. Before sharpening, secure the tool head 

to free both hands. Use a grinder or mill bastard file to 

sharpen pointed tips to 1

⁄

8

-inch square. When sharpening 

chisel tips, maintain the factory bevel.

Tools for Grubbing
19

Cutter mattock

Pick mattock

Cutter mattock

Types of mattocks.

Adze hoes are useful tools for constructing trails.

Mattocks

The cutter mattock uses the same grubbing blade as pick 

mattocks, but includes an opposing 2-inch cutter blade 

instead of a pointed tip. Crews working in deep, rooty soil 

often prefer these tools; roots are severed with the cutter 

blade and then pried out with the grubbing end. Follow 

the use instructions outlined for Pulaskis.

The pick mattock is often recommended as the standard 

tool for trail work. It is used like a pick. It has a pointed tip 

for breaking rocks and a grubbing blade for working softer 

materials. The grubbing blade may also be used to cut 

roots or remove small stumps. Moreover, with the edge of 

the tool, you can tamp dirt and loose rocks or smooth a 

new tread, and the handle helps measure the trail’s width.

Mattock handles are similar to pick handles. They are 

usually 16 to 17 inches long and they can be removed 

when transporting and sharpening the heads. Mattocks 

weigh about 21

⁄

2

 pounds. 

Maintain good cutting edges on mattocks. Keep grubbing 

blades sharpened to maintain a 35° edge bevel on the 

underside. Sharpen pick ends like a pick, and maintain 

factory bevels on cutter blades.

Adze, Grub, and Hazel Hoes

Use adze hoes, grub hoes, or hazel hoes to break 

sod clumps when constructing new trail or leveling an 

existing trail tread. These hoes are also useful in heavy 

duff. Operate hoes like Pulaskis, mattocks, and picks. 

Work the tool at an angle across the front of your body 

so the handle is not between your legs. Bend at the 

waist, keeping your back straight, knees flexed, and feet 

shoulder-width apart with one foot slightly forward. Control 

the swing by grasping the handle near the end with one 

hand and near the middle with the other. “Choking” the 

handle and swinging straight down may cause the handle 

to hit your shins or knees. Use short, shallow chops to save 

energy. Strike so the tool hits at an angle on its corner.

The tapered eyes and handle ends of these hoes force 

heads to tighten during use, but make them easily 

removable for carrying and sharpening. Like picks and 

mattocks, you can also use a screw to hold the head from 

slipping on the handle. To sharpen, remove the handle, 

secure the head so both hands are free, and use a file or 

grinder to bring the cutting edge to an inside bevel of 45°. 

Carry these hoes like Pulaskis, picks, or mattocks.

Tools for Grubbing
20

Draw or swan neck hoe

Adze hoe

Grub hoe

Hazel hoe

Draw or swan neck hoes are useful for leveling or 

weeding. These hoes are light duty tools, however, and 

may often prove impractical for trail use. Carry draw hoes 

like shovels, with the sharpened edge away from the body 

and down. Sharpen the edge to an outside bevel of 45°. 

Finishing with a whetstone is unnecessary for all hoes.

Grub hoe being used for trail work.

Tools for Grubbing
21

ools for Digging and Tamping

Press your arm against your thigh to gain leverage.

Sharpening square-edge and taper-edge shovels.

Round-point shovel

Square Round point Taper

Shovel types.

Shovels

Shovels are available in various blade shapes and handle 

lengths. In general, shovel blades are tapered for shifting 

loads, square-edged for scooping, or pointed for digging. 

Handle lengths vary from D-handles of about 27 inches to 

longer-handled shovels up to about 48 inches. They weigh 

from 3 to 5 pounds. Long-handled shovels are usually 

preferred for trailwork. A shovel with a detachable handle 

is often a good choice. Firefighters use a shovel with a 

detachable handle that is designed to scrape combustible 

material down to mineral soil. It is lightweight and durable 

and well-suited for scraping as opposed to digging.

When shifting or scooping materials, bend your knees 

and lift with your legs—not your back. Use your thigh as a 

fulcrum to push against the shovel. This makes the handle 

an efficient lever and saves your energy and your back. 

When digging, make the top diameter of the hole large 

enough so that it won’t interfere with the shovel handle 

while removing loose dirt as the hole deepens. A shovel 

used with a pick or bar is most effective; picks or bars 

make prying with the shovel unnecessary. Wiggling the 

shovel handle while applying foot pressure on the blade 

will help you dig deeper.

Carry shovels with the head forward and the handle 

behind. Grip the handle firmly near the head and hold it 

away from your body while you walk. Sharpen blades with 

a mill bastard file. Start filing the edge just below the foot 

rest and work to the point. File away from blade center. 

Maintain the bevel on the inside (top) surface of the blade 

approximately at a 45° angle. Sharpen square-edge and 

tapered-edge shovels on the bottom only. Final honing is 

unnecessary.
22

Digging and tamping bar

Digging and Tamping Bars

A digging and tamping bar is about the same length as a 

crowbar, but much lighter. It is designed with a chisel tip 

for loosening dirt or rocks and a flattened end for tamping. 

These bars are not prying tools. Bars are approximately 

70 inches long with a 21

⁄

2

-inch-wide tamping end.

Carry digging bars at their balance point, like shovels or 

crowbars. Maintain bars by keeping them as straight as 

possible and by sharpening the chisel tip to retain the 

factory bevel.

Tools for Digging and Tamping
23

Transport shears with the blades closed. Grip the tool on 

one handle just behind the blade and carry it by your side. 

Clean moisture and sap from blades after use. Keep metal 

parts lightly oiled to prevent rust. Frequently check nuts 

and bolts for tightness, and always carry replacements in 

the field.

To sharpen, spread the 

handles apart, resting one or 

both ends on a flat surface. 

Use a mill bastard file on the 

cutting blade only; neither hooks 

nor anvils are sharpened. 

Maintain factory bevels while 

filing toward the cutting edge. 

Use a whetstone to remove 

the wire edge.

ools for Brushing

Lopping shears allow branches to be cut cleanly and flush with tree 

 trunks.

Lopping shears

Hook and anvil cutting blades.

Cutting blade

Hook HOOK BLADE

ANVIL BLADE

Cutting blade

Anvil

The hook places the weight of 

the shears on the limb.

Cutting

edge

Lopping shears

Lopping and Pruning Shears

Lopping and pruning shears are similar in design and 

use, although lopping shears have longer handles to 

improve reach, and gear drives to increase leverage for 

thicker stems. Cutting edges vary, but generally one blade 

binds and cuts a stem against an anvil or beveled hook. 

We recommend the hook and blade shear for overhead 

cuts because the curved blades transfer the weight of the 

shears to the limb. Quality shears have rust-resistant steel 

blades. Handles are wood or aluminum. Handles range 

from 26 to 36 inches long. Limbs up to 3 inches can be 

cut with shears.

Sharpening lopping shears. 
24

Bank Blades and Bush Hooks

Bank blades and bush hooks are designed specifically for 

cutting through thickets of heavy brush or saplings. Their 

long handles and heavy heads will add momentum to the 

force of your swing, but their curved blades also pose extra 

safety hazards. Always maintain a firm grip with both hands 

on the handle. Cut with a slicing rather than a hacking 

motion. Remember that bank blades have cutting edges 

on both edges of the blade. Stay clear of other workers. Be 

aware of the increased possibility of glancing blows, and 

always control the swing to avoid cuts to the legs or feet. 

Wear shin guards when operating these tools. Blades are 

available in 12- to 16-inch lengths. Handles are 36 inches 

or 40 inches long. The tool weighs from 31

⁄

2

 to 5 pounds.

Carry bank blades and bush hooks with the head forward 

like a shovel. Grip the handle near the head and hold the 

hook away from the body and down.

True-Temper lopping shears give a 11⁄

2

-inch diameter cut. The 

 tubular steel handles provide extra strength and the rubber cushion 

 grips absorb shocks. These are used by biologists to remove deer 

 jawbones. The shears are 26 inches long and weigh 21

⁄

4

 pounds.

The Hi-Tork lopper makes a 11

⁄

2

-inch diameter cut. It is designed for 

 hardwood, frozen wood, brush, and deadwood. The shears are 27 

 inches long and weigh 3 pounds.

Point-cut pruners make a 11

⁄

4

-inch diameter cut. The blades open 

 wide to cut suckers or sprouts at blade point. Weight is 3 pounds.

Snap-cut professional lopping shears make a 13

⁄

4

-inch diameter cut. 

 They are a gear-driven lopping shear with tremendous cutting 

 power—10 pounds force applied to the handles gives 300 pounds 

 of cutting power. The shears are 30 inches long and weigh 51

⁄

2

 lbs.

Bank blade

Bush hook

“Forester” heavy-duty brush cutters make a 2-inch diameter cut for 

 heavy-duty jobs—hardwood, deadwood, branches, or brush. The 

 rugged steel construction is even strong enough to dehorn and clip 

 cattle. Both blades cut to reduce bark damage. The shears are 27 

 to 34 inches long and weigh 4 to 8 pounds.

Heavy-duty lopping shears are ideal for the forester. They have ash 

 handles, make a 3-inch diameter cut, and are 371

⁄

2

 inches long. 

 Weight is 51

⁄

2

 pounds.

Examples:

True-Temper lopping shears

Snap-cut lopping shears

Forester heavy-duty brush cutter

Heavy-duty lopping shears Hi-Tork lopper

Tools for Brushing

Point-cut pruner
25

Council single-edge, 

eye-and-strap bush hook

True-Temper single-edge, 

eye-and-strap bush hook

True-Temper double edge, 

ax-eye type bush hook

Council double edge, 

ax-eye type bush hook

Sharpening a bush hook.

Bush hooks are used for clearing work that is too heavy for a 

 scythe and not suited for an ax. They are available with 

 single-edged, eye-and-strap blade, or double-edged, ax-eye 

 blade type. They have hickory handles 12 to 36 inches long 

 and weigh 2 to 41

⁄

2

 pounds.

True-Temper bank blade

Council bank blade

Bank blades are used for clearing thick undergrowth and brush. 

 The blade is sharpened on both sides. Blade lengths may be 

 12 or 16 inches. Hickory handles are available in 36 or 42 

 inches. These tools weigh 1 to 51

⁄

2

 pounds.

Long-handled clearing knife

Swedish brush (Sandvik) ax

A Swedish brush ax cuts small saplings and brush easily, safely. 

 The replaceable Swedish steel blade has a 51

⁄

2

-inch cutting 

 edge. The hickory handle is 27 inches long overall, and weighs 

 21

⁄

2

 pounds.

Sharpen bank blades and bush hooks with a mill bastard 

file and finish with a whetstone. Always wear your gloves 

and use a file guard. Stroke along the straight edges 

of the blades and swing the stone or file in an arc to 

maintain the factory edge bevel on curved sections.

Clearing Knives and Swedish Brush 

(Sandvik) Axes

These clearing tools work well in brushy thickets or when 

clearing in rocky or confined areas. Clearing knives look 

like small, short, brush hooks, so use, carry, and sharpen 

them accordingly. Handle length will determine if the tool 

is operated one- or two-handed. Use and carry a shorthandled clearing knife like a machete.

Brush axes have different blades than clearing knives. 

The replaceable Swedish steel blade has a 51

⁄

2

-inch 

cutting edge. The ax has a 27-inch long handle. It weighs 

about 21

⁄

2

 pounds. They have removable blades held in 

a C-shaped frame under tension. Tension may weaken 

and cause blades to pop out. Bend the frame outward 

slightly to increase tension. The blade can be removed for 

sharpening. Avoid overheating the blade and losing the 

temper. Replace badly damaged blades.

Examples:

Bush hook

Tools for Brushing
26

Sharpening the brush ax.

Machete

Woodsman’s Pal

Collins machete

Barteaux & Sons machete

Seymour machetes

Woodsman’s Pal with 

a hardwood handle

Woodsman’s Pal with 

a hand guard and a leather grip

The Seymour machetes are for cutting heavy weeds, brush, 

 vines, grass, and shrubs. They have heavy-duty, hand-forged 

 Swedish steel blades and polypropylene safety handles that 

 are 17 to 24 inches long. Weight is a few ounces to 2 pounds.

Woodsman’s Pal axes are used for 

 cutting, chopping, digging, hacking, 

 and pulling. They are 16 inches long 

 and weigh 11

⁄

2

 pounds.

Machetes and Woodsman’s Pals

Machetes and Woodsman’s Pals are used to clear weeds, 

brush, and small trees along a trail. Machetes became 

commonly used in Forest Service work after World War II 

when surplus knives were used extensively for brushing. 

Machetes have blades from 17 to 24 inches long and 

weigh up to 2 pounds. The Woodsman’s Pal is shorter and 

sturdier than the machete and includes a cutting hook and 

a knuckle guard. It is used for cutting, chopping, digging, 

hacking, and pulling. It is 16 inches long and weighs 

about 11

⁄

2

 pounds.

Because these are single-grip tools, a worker must 

always maintain a firm grip while swinging. Also, be aware 

of the location of fellow workers. The hook on the end of 

the Woodsman’s Pal can slip as it is pulled toward you 

and cut legs or hands, or it may strike the back of an 

operator’s head on the back swing. Both tools come with 

belt sheaths that make them easy and safe to carry.

When sharpening, use a mill bastard file or whetstone to 

maintain the factory edge bevel. Sharpen the hook of the 

Woodsman’s Pal using the procedure described for the 

brush hook. Protect sharpened edges at all times.

Examples:

Brush ax

Tools for Brushing
27

Blade

Tang

Grass 

nail

Nibs

Snath

Scythe parts.

Corn knife

The tobacco knife blade is tough alloy steel that is 12 inches long by 

 1 inch wide and 3

⁄

32-inch thick. It is beveled and sharpened with an 

 ax stone only on one side. The round hardwood handle is 11

⁄

4

 inches in diameter. 

Tobacco knife

Corn Knives

These tools, also called tobacco knives, come in a variety 

of shapes and sizes. They are commonly used for hand 

brushing on tree and tobacco plantations.

Corn knives are single-grip tools, so hold tightly to the 

handle while operating. Stand well balanced and bend 

at the waist. Use your free hand to steady the stems you 

intend to cut. Wear a glove to protect your free hand from 

scratches or burns from weeds.

When carrying, grip the knife on the handle near the blade. 

Carry the tool by your side with the blade pointed away 

from your body and down. When sharpening, maintain 

factory edge bevels. Corn knives may have curved blades 

that are sharpened on only one side like brush or weed 

hooks, or they may have straight or adjustable blades that 

are sharpened on both sides like machetes.

Scythes

Scythes efficiently mow open areas of weeds or grass. 

Grass or weed scythes have 24- to 40-inch blades and 

long handles. Brush scythes have shorter, sturdier blades 

and handles and are often preferred by trail crews.

Operate the scythe by grasping the handles (nibs) 

projecting from the bar (snath) and rhythmically sweeping 

the blade low to the ground across and in front of you. A 

“grass nail” placed between the bar and the blade keeps 

vegetation from catching in that junction.

Carry scythes by your side in one hand, blade forward 

and handle behind. Keep control of the blade by grasping 

the handle near the blade and pointing the blade away 

from your body with the tip down. Stop and change hands 

if the tool becomes too heavy. Transport scythes well 

behind a line of workers, and work only in areas clear of 

others.

Before sharpening the scythe, stand the handle on its 

end so the blade is horizontal and the tip points down. 

Use a whetstone or scythestone to hone the blade from 

back to front (tang to tip) on both sides. Maintain the 

factory edge bevel. If the blade is badly chipped detach 

it from the handle and reshape it with a grinder or file. 

Return the edge to a bevel of 10°. Although some argue 

that the wire edge facilitates cutting light vegetation, 

we recommend removing it. A lesser known method of 

sharpening involves beating the blade with a special 

hammer to shape and sharpen it without grinding. Finish 

with a whetstone.

Tools for Brushing
28

Sickle

Grass hook

Weed hook

Pushing cutter

11

⁄

2

 inches wide

The arc of the 

pulling cutter 

measures 31

⁄

2

 inches.

Weed hook and head diagram.

Sickles and Grass Hooks

Sickles are curved knives used to cut weeds or grass in 

limited space. The single grip handle angles upward so 

the blade cuts parallel to the ground while the operator 

stands bent at the waist. The blade is 12 inches long and 

the handle is 4 to 5 inches long.

Carry the sickle by your side with the cutting edge away 

from your body and pointed down. Maintain a firm grip on 

the handle when carrying or using.

Maintain sickles with a whetstone or scythestone. The 

blade is beveled on the top side only. Remove the wire 

edge by working the stone flat against the backside.

The grass hook combines features of scythes and sickles. 

It can be operated like a scythe from an upright position, 

but the small blade is maintained like a sickle.

Weed Hooks

Workers can easily trim annual vegetation along a trail 

with a weed hook. These tools have a curved inside blade 

that cuts by pulling through stems toward the operator 

and a straight top blade that cuts by pushing. Long 

handles allow the operator to remain upright.

Since these tools are light enough to operate with a 

single grip, carry them by the handle with the head away 

from the body and down and weed as you walk. Always 

maintain safe distances between workers. Remember that 

the tool has two cutting edges and that swinging it could 

be especially hazardous. Sharpen weed hooks with a mill 

bastard file and finish with a whetstone. Use a curving 

stroke on the pulling cutter that follows the inside edge 

around to the tip. Sharpen the pushing cutter on the top 

side only.

Weed Cutters (Grass Whips)

Weed cutters are used for cutting light growth like grasses 

and annuals that grow along trails. They are lightweight 

and durable and usually swung like a golf club. The sharper 

the blade, the less energy needed to cut. Both edges are 

serrated and cut on the forward and return strokes. When 

sharpening the edges of these tools, remember that 

different models have the blade bevels on different sides. 

The frame may interfere when sharpening top-beveled 

blades. It may be best to remove the blade and screw it to a 

block of wood for sharpening. Maintain a 25° bevel on both 

serrated and straight blades. Cutters usually have a 9- by 

2-inch blade and a 40-inch long handle.

Weed cutter 

(grass whip)

Tools for Brushing
29

Hand-Drilling Hammers

Hand-drilling hammers are used to 

drill steel into rock or to drive wedge 

and feathers into cracks or drilled 

holes. There are two types of 

hand-drilling hammers—single 

jacks and double jacks. Both 

have two rounded striking 

faces with beveled edges to 

minimize chipping.

Single jacking involves an individual holding a drilling 

steel in one hand and hitting it with a hammer held in the 

other. The single jacks have 3- or 4-pound heads and 

10-inch handles. The short handle helps you place blows 

accurately and resists breaking better than longer handles. 

Engineer’s hammers with 3- or 4-pound heads and 14-inch 

handles can also be used for modified double jacking. 

An operator sits or kneels near the steel and hammers 

with both hands while another worker holds the steel. 

The proximity of both hands to the head required by the 

14-inch handle assures that accuracy and safety are not 

sacrificed. Large double jacks with 6- or 8-pound heads 

and 36-inch handles are available for experienced drillers. 

For more information on hand drilling, we 

recommend Hand Drilling and Breaking Rock 

for Wilderness Trail Maintenance Tech. Rep. 

8423–2602–MTDC, 

August 1984).

ools for Pounding and Hammering

Stone 

sledge

Sledge Hammers

Sledge hammers have heads that weigh from 8 to 20 

pounds, which are forged from heat-treated high carbon 

steel. They usually have two rounded striking faces 

with beveled edges to minimize chipping. Thirty-six inch 

handles are common. Handles can be fiberglass or wood.

Driving sledges are used to set heavy timbers and drive 

heavy spikes or hardened nails. Stone sledges are used 

to break boulders or concrete. Because of differences in 

tempering, these tools are not interchangeable.

Swing sledge hammers carefully—more like mattocks and 

picks than axes. Carry these tools like axes, holding the 

handle by your side, extending the handle behind you, 

and gripping the hammer near the head.

Maintain hammers by keeping striking faces smooth. Use 

a grinder, but do not allow the tool to overheat, which will 

weaken its temper. The temper is shallow, and excessive 

grinding will go through to soft metal. Have a blacksmith 

recondition those with badly chipped or mushroomed 

faces. Check handles regularly for tightness or cracks. 

Repair or replace them as needed.

Single jacking.

Sledge hammer

Nevada or 

long pattern 

sledge

Double face sledge

Hand-drilling hammer
30

Features of Hand-Drilling Hammers—

Head The double-face hammer head is 

made of heat-treated, high-carbon 

steel.

Striking faces The two striking faces should have 

beveled edges and should be heattreated.

Handle Wood handles are usually made of 

hickory. They should have a tight, 

knot-free grain that runs parallel to 

the wedge slot. Other handles are 

made of fiberglass, or are a forged 

extension of the head.

Single jack These are also called ‘club’ or 

hand drilling hammers. Handles 

are commonly 10 inches long, and 

heads weigh either 3 or 4 pounds. 

The short handle is uniquely 

suited to hand drilling because it 

resists breaking better than longer 

ones, and it facilitates accuracy by 

requiring the hand to be close to 

the head.

Engineer’s hammer These are also called long-handle 

single jacks. They come with a 

14-inch handle attached to a 3- or 

4-pound head, and work well for the 

drilling technique we call modified 

double jacking.

Double jack These large driving sledges 

have 36-inch handles and 6- or 

8-pound heads. Because their use 

requires considerable expertise 

from both the driller and holder, 

we recommend that you use single 

jacking or modified double jacking 

until safety and proficiency with the 

double jack can be assured.

Single jack hammer

Engineer’s hammer

Double jack hammer

Tools for Pounding and Hammering
31

Nailing Hammers

Nail hammers have heads with a heat-treated steel face 

for driving nails, and claws on the other end for pulling. 

Heads vary in weight from 7 to 28 ounces. Impact handles 

are hickory, fiberglass, or steel forged directly to the head. 

Handles are usually 12 to 14 inches long.

When hammering, maintain a secure 

grip on the tool near the handle 

end. Start nails 

with 

light 

hits 

until 

you 

can 

clear your nailholding hand. 

Concentrate on 

the nail head and place 

each hit carefully. When 

removing nails, position the head upside down against 

a flat surface, and catch the nail head between the 

claws. Pulling the hammer toward you causes the head 

to rock the claw end up and extracts the nail. For larger 

nails, a block placed between the head and the surface 

will increase your leverage. To carry hammers, grip the 

handle near the head, holding the tool away from your 

body as you walk. Maintain them like the other hammers 

discussed in this section.

Double jacking.

Carry single jacks like hatchets and double jacks like axes 

or Pulaskis. Always wear gloves on the hands holding the 

steel to prevent injury from a glancing blow. Both drillers 

and holders should wear safety glasses or goggles to 

guard against flying rock chips.

Maintain drilling hammers by grinding striking faces 

smooth. Avoid overheating and excessive grinding with 

electric grinders that will destroy the shallow temper of 

the striking faces. If faces are badly chipped or unevenly 

worn, have them reconditioned by a blacksmith. Check 

handles regularly for tightness or cracks, and repair or 

replace them as needed.

Nailing hammer

Face

Poll Head

Claw

Neck Cheek

Tools for Pounding and Hammering
32

Tools for Pounding and Hammering
33

Place the chisel tip under an object to be moved, and 

wedge a log or rock between the bar and the ground 

to act as a fulcrum for the lever. Press the handle down 

with your body weight positioned over your palms. Never 

straddle the bar when prying. When the object raises 

as much as the bite will allow, block it and use a larger 

fulcrum or shorter bite on the same fulcrum to raise it 

further. You will gain proficiency with practice.

Carry crowbars by your side, tip forward, and grip it tightly 

near the middle to maintain balance. Maintain the factory 

bevel on the tip with a file or grindstone.

Block and Tackles

A block and tackle is a set of pulley blocks 

and ropes used for hoisting or hauling. 

These come in different styles, sizes, and 

capacities. In general, however, the more 

ropes that pass between the blocks, 

the greater mechanical advantage the 

tool affords. This advantage is called 

stress strength or lift capacity and is 

usually stamped somewhere on the 

tool. Attempting to move objects heavier 

than the block and tackle can safely 

support may damage the tool or cause 

injury. Never overstress block and 

tackle sets.

Hook the fixed or stationary block to 

something solid and the moveable 

block to the load. Pull the free rope 

end to lift or move the load and tie it 

off to hold the load in place. Always 

stand clear of stressed lines and out of 

the load’s path of movement. Never stand 

under a suspended load.

Regularly examine running gears and hooks for signs of 

fatigue. Inspect cables or ropes for fraying and replace 

when necessary. Periodically oil unsealed bearings. Be 

careful not to spill oil onto areas that might cause it to slip 

under stress.

ools for Lifting and Hauling

Use small rocks or logs for leverage when prying heavy objects.

Crowbar

Crowbar

Fulcrum

Crowbars are indispensable for moving very heavy objects.

Block 

and tackle

Crowbars

Use a crowbar for prying and levering large, heavy 

objects. These bars are heavy-duty steel and vary in 

length, weight, and diameter. In general, crowbars have a 

chisel tip on one end and a rounded handle on the other. 

They are usually 1 to 11

⁄

2

 inches in diameter and vary 

between 40 to 62 inches in length.
34

Bending your knees and lifting with your legs avoids back strain or 

 injury.

Wheelbarrow

Cant hook

Peavy

Wheelbarrows

Wheelbarrows help carry rocks or dirt to or from the 

work-site. Most wheelbarrows have a metal box and 

frame, wood or aluminum handles, and solid rubber 

or pneumatic tires. We recommend pneumatic-tired 

wheelbarrows because tire inflation can be changed to 

roll easily on uneven terrain.

Select a wheelbarrow stout enough for the job. Typically, 

wheelbarrows hold 4 to 5 cubic feet and weigh 20 or more 

pounds. Lift a loaded wheelbarrow with your legs, not with 

your back. Keep your back straight, bend at the knees to 

get into a lifting position, and grasp the handles firmly.

Balancing heavy loads on uneven terrain requires strong 

arms and legs. To avoid tipping, keep the load’s center of 

gravity low to the ground. Good footing is essential. Learn 

and work within your physical limits. Several light loads 

will be easier and safer to manage than one large one. 

Prevent muscle strains by starting light and working up to 

heavy loads.

Although wheelbarrows usually require little maintenance, 

there are some things you can do. Lightly oil the wheel 

and axle occasionally, unless it has sealed bearings. 

Check handle bolts often for tightness and carry 

replacements in the field. Keep the box clean—dirt, water, 

or debris left standing in wheelbarrows will accelerate 

rusting. Turn the unit over at the end of the day’s work, or 

if possible, store it out of the weather.

Cant Hooks and Peavies

Cant hooks and Peavies afford leverage for moving or 

rotating logs. The cant hook was originally used with 

a jam pike—a long pole with a spiked end. Loggers 

separated pieces with the hook after using the pike to 

pry them apart. Later these tools were combined by an 

American blacksmith, John Peavy, and the new tool 

bore his name. They weigh from 4 to 6 pounds and have 

handles from 21

⁄

2

 to 5 feet long. The size of log to be 

handled will dictate the size of the tool.

Tools for Lifting and Hauling
35

To roll a heavy log, use a series of short bites with the 

hook and maintain your progress by quickly resetting it. 

Catch the log with the hook hanging down so the point of 

the spike becomes the fulcrum on top of the log. Rotate 

the log using the leverage of the handle working the tool 

like a ratchet. Moving large logs may require several hooks 

working together. Avoid taking large bites; a heavy log will 

roll back and pin the handle before the hook can be reset.

Carry the Peavy by your side with the point forward. For 

balance, grip the handle behind where the hook attaches. 

Before walking, secure the hook against the handle to 

prevent injury to the operator or damage to the point of the 

hook. These tools also need maintenance. Keep hinged 

parts lightly oiled for proper movement. Spiked ends 

and hooks are usually bolted to handles, so check these 

frequently for tightness. Remove the spike ends and hooks 

when replacing handles. Carry replacements in the field. 

Sharpen hook ends with a mill bastard file and finish with a 

whetstone. Maintain factory bevels as much as possible.

Timber Carriers

Timber carriers enable teams of workers to move logs. 

With one tool, the log is dragged. Several carriers could 

allow four or more persons to carry a large log. Hooks are 

3 to 16 inches; handles are typically 4 feet long. Carriers 

weigh about 7 to 8 pounds.

Maintain the tongs on a timber carrier like cant hooks and 

Peavies. The tongs attach to the handle with a single bolt 

that is removed for handle replacement and carrying.

Timber carriers allow several persons to carry logs.

Room for two persons on each side.

Tools for Lifting and Hauling
36

Tools for Lifting and Hauling
37

For greatest efficiency, position the log about waist high. 

When using the drawknife, grasp both handles so the 

beveled edge of the blade faces the log. Begin each 

stroke with arms extended and pull the tool toward you 

while keeping even pressure on the blade. Keep fingers 

clear of blade corners. Since the knife shaves to attain a 

flat surface, the largest strips will come from log edges.

You can change the thickness of shavings by rocking the 

blade back and forth on the edge bevel. Practice will yield 

proficiency.

Carry drawknives by one handle and at your side. 

Sharpen drawknives with a file or grinder. Maintain the 

edge bevel at 33°, and keep the blade cool to preserve 

the temper. Finish with a whetstone. Whet the blade by 

holding one handle with the blade facing up and securing 

the other. Hold the stone on the blade flat against the 

bevel and move it across the blade in a circular motion. 

When a wire edge forms on the full length of the blade, 

lightly whet the flat side to remove it.

Another whetting method employs a stone 

set in a wood block. Secure the block 

with the stone protruding above it so both knife 

handles will clear. Grasp both handles with the 

bevel facing down and pull the blade diagonally 

across the stone along its edge. 

Remove wire edges by operating 

similarly on the other side.

Bark Spuds 

(Peeling Spuds)

Use a bark spud to peel green logs. They 

have a 3 to 4-foot-long handle and weigh 

about 4 pounds. Position the log about hip 

high. Hold the tool firmly with both hands and 

push the dished blade lengthwise along the 

log under the bark. Always pry away from your 

body. Three sharpened edges make this tool 

unusually hazardous to use and transport. Be 

mindful of the blade when working or walking 

near others.

Carry the spud at your side. Grip the handle 

near the middle and walk with the cutting 

edges away from your body and down. 

Maintain the original shape of the cutting blade 

when sharpening. Use a file and a whetstone 

on each edge on both sides.

ools for Peeling and Shaping

A drawknife peels the bark off of logs.

Bark 

spud

Drawknife

Sharpening a drawknife using a stone set in a wood block.

TOP VIEW SIDE VIEW

Vise

Routed

block

Whetstone

Whetstone

Drawknives

Drawknives work best to peel dry logs. A standard drawknife has an 8- to 10-inch blade with perpendicular 

handles at each end and is 4 to 5 inches long.
38

Carpenter’s adze

Hewing a log with a carpenter’s adze.

Poll

Shoulder

Cutting 

edge

Eye

Squared 

handle end

Blade

Detail of the carpenter’s adze head.

Broadax

Carpenter’s Adzes (Cutting Adzes)

This tool trims and shapes wood surfaces like hewed 

timbers or flattened logs. The cutting edge is 4 to 7 inches 

wide and 8 to 10 inches long. Adze heads weigh from 3 to 5 

pounds with a cutting blade set perpendicular to the handle. 

The blade curves from the front of the head to the cutting 

edge, roughly matching the arc of the curved handle.

To use a cutting adze, stand astride or on top of the log 

to be hewed. Grip the handle with both hands and swing 

it with short strokes in a pendulum motion along the log. 

Use your thigh as a stop for your arm and to control the 

depth of the cut. When standing on a log and swinging, 

take care to position yourself to miss your feet and legs.

A square tapered eye and handle end allows the head 

to tighten when swung, but also allows its removal for 

carrying and sharpening. Some adzes may have a small 

set screw to further secure handles to heads. Keep 

the adze sharp. Maintain the cutting edge by regularly 

“touching it up” with a whetstone. If the blade needs 

reshaping, grind the edge bevel on the underside to 30°. 

Finish with a whetstone.

Broadaxes

Use a broadax for hewing if no adze is available. Position 

the log so that scores are on one side and perpendicular 

to the ground. Depending on the size of the log, stand on 

the side opposite the scores or on top of the log. Large logs 

may require you to work on the same side as the scores.

Additional safety hazards exist when hewing with a regular 

ax. Maintain control of the ax by grasping the handle near 

the middle with hands several inches apart. Use short 

swings to sever scored sections. Work the length of the log 

in one direction to remove most of the wood, then reverse 

directions for smoothing. Be extremely careful of glancing 

blows; work slowly and carefully. Frequent rest periods will 

help ensure efficiency and safety.

Tools for Peeling and Shaping
39

2—Mark a plumb line down the center of one 

end and a horizontal line perpendicular to 

it. Be sure to place the horizontal line deep 

enough to attain the desired width of finished 

flat surface.

3—Repeat the 

procedure at the 

opposite end and 

snap two chalk lines 

connecting the horizontal 

end lines.

4—Using an ax or 

saw, score the log 

to the depth of the 

chalk lines, making the 

grooves parallel to the butt ends 

and as close together as necessary to 

hew a flat surface.

5—Hew (remove) the scored sections with an adze 

or broadax. If you use a broadax, hew the log face 

perpendicular to the ground rather than parallel, as shown 

here. The remaining sides may be marked, scored, and 

hewed as necessary.

Log dogs steady the log while it is being hewn.

Log dog

Hew logs in the following manner:

1—Elevate the log onto two short cross pieces and 

anchor it with log dogs. Log dogs are timber workers’ 

clamps. One end is driven into the log and the other into 

a stable support. The log is held in place and both of the 

worker’s hands are free for hewing.

Tools for Peeling and Shaping
40

Tools for Peeling and Shaping
41

About Sharpening

A tool need not be old and worn to need sharpening. 

Many tools arrive dull from the factory. They may leave 

in good condition but become damaged during shipping. 

Inspect all tools before use. Sharpening makes tools last 

longer—a small scratch that is ignored could lead to a 

serious crack or nick in the blade.

Use a material like 

a file or grindstone 

that is harder 

than tool steel 

to remove metal 

from the edge. If 

there are no visible nicks, a touch-up with a whetstone will 

restore a keen cutting edge. In these instances, you need 

only restore the edge bevel. Whetting the edge removes 

ools for Sharpening

Dull tools are useless and dangerous.

Edge bevel Blade bevel

Blade of cutting edge tool

When sharpening an ax or Pulaski blade, for example, 

 work the stone in small circles across and “into” the 

 blade.

Edge 

bevel

Stone

Ax blade

Pulaski 

blade

Feather or 

wire edge

Sharpening stone

A wire edge is removed by honing the 

 opposite edge.

very small bits of metal from the blade and causes the 

remaining metal to burr slightly on the cutting edge. This 

burr is called a feather, or wire edge. Remove this weak 

strip by honing the edge on the other side. The correctly 

honed edge is sharp, has no wire edge, and does not 

reflect light or show a sharpening line. Wear gloves when 

sharpening cutting edges.

Restoring the blade bevel requires coarser grinding tools 

to affect the shape of worn cutting blades. Reshape 

blades with hand files, sandstone wheels, or electric 

grinders. Remove visible nicks by grinding the metal back 

on the blade. Remember, however, that the correct blade 

bevel must be maintained. Remove the metal necessary 

to make the blade smooth while retaining its proper 

shape. If the shape is too radically affected, either have a 

blacksmith recondition the tool head or discard the tool.

The Missoula Technology and Development Center has 

developed a handtool sharpening gauge that provides a 

quick guide to the proper cutting angle for a number of 

tools. The gauge takes the guesswork out of sharpening 

Pulaskis (both ends), axes, shovels, combination tools, and 

McLeods. It has a “no-go” line that shows when a Pulaski 

Stone

Right Right Wrong
42

The handtool sharpening gauge is a handy aid for inspecting and 

 sharpening a variety of fire handtools.

This file has a knuckle guard made from old 

 linen hose.

File Handle

 Knuckle guard

Single-cut file for 

finishing metal edges

Double-cut file for 

removing larger 

particles for shaping

Curved-cut file for 

softer metal jobs

Rasp-cut file for 

softer materials 

like wood

head is too worn to refurbish. The handtool sharpening 

gauge is available from the General Services Administration, item number: NSN 5210-01-324-2776, NFES 0510.

Files

Files come in single, double, curved, or rasp cuts. Singlecut files have one series of parallel teeth angled 60° 

to 80° from the edge, and are used for finishing work. 

Double cuts have two series of parallel teeth set 45° to 

each other; they are used for restoring shape. Curved 

and rasp cuts are used for shaping soft metals and wood, 

respectively.

Files vary in length and shape. Files are measured from 

the point to the heel, excluding the tang (the tip used to 

attach a handle). Length determines the coarseness of 

files. There are generally three degrees of file coarseness: 

bastard, second cut, and smooth. The bastard will be the 

coarsest file available, however, only when it is included 

among different cuts of files of the same length. Of the 

many shapes of files currently on the market, you will 

probably not often use mill and flat files. Mill files are 

single-cut, and flat files are double-cut. A 10-inch mill 

bastard file is good for all-around tool sharpening.

Tools for Sharpening
43

Grinders

A manually operated sandstone wheel that runs 

through or receives 

dripping water is 

the best all-round 

grinding tool. 

The wheel 

turns slowly 

enough 

to allow 

monitoring of 

the amount of 

metal being 

removed 

and the 

water keeps 

the blade 

cool. For volume sharpening, a sandstone wheel may 

be provided with mechanical power, but only if it remains 

geared to the same maximum revolutions per minute that 

a hand operation would allow.

Electric bench grinders quickly reshape damaged tools, 

but extreme caution must accompany their use. Improper 

electric grinding can ruin both the bevel and temper of a 

tool. High speeds remove metal from the blade quickly, 

which can cause it to weaken and chip easily. High speeds 

also allow heat buildup in tool heads, which can destroy 

temper and make it impossible for the blade to hold an 

edge. Using electric grinders, grind slowly and keep the 

blade cool. Inspect blades frequently to prevent too much 

metal from being ground from the blade. Dip the tool in 

water or cool it in open air. Avoid grinding on flat sides of 

electric wheels because they will weaken and break.

Comparative coarseness of files of uniform length.

Bastard Second cut Smooth cut

Always wear gloves and goggles while filing.

Grindstone

Grinding parallel to bevels maintains the correct angle.

Flat surface 

and edge

Rounded edge 

is dull

Grinding like this would 

remove rounding, but 

alter the edge bevel

Chisel 

edge

Wedgetapered 

edge

Before filing, fit the file with a handle and knuckle guard. 

Always wear gloves on both hands to prevent cuts from 

the sharpened edge. Secure the tool so both hands are 

free for filing. Use the largest file you can, depending on 

the size, nature, and workable stroke length of the job. 

Remember that files are designed to cut in one direction 

only. Apply even pressure on the push stroke, then lift the 

file up and off the tool while returning for another pass. 

Store or transport files so they are not thrown together 

and protect them from other tools.

Maintain files with a brush or file card. A file brush has 

coarse and fine bristles and a wire pick for extracting 

trapped filings. A card has a small brush and a wire 

scorer.

Tools for Sharpening
44

Grinding 

wheel

Blade

Sharpening a blade on a grinding wheel.

Finish the edge with a whetstone as if you were touching 

up. Blade and edge bevels may vary with individual preference and based on the task at hand. When sharpening 

an ax, for example, the blade bevel for use in softwoods 

might be thinner than one for hardwoods. Experience, 

observation, and experimentation will determine the appropriate bevels for each tool and cutting job.

Use adequate safety equipment when grinding tools. 

Always wear heavy leather gloves. Long-sleeved shirts 

and leather aprons will help prevent small burns from 

sparks or metal shavings. Proper eye protection is 

essential, including eye shields or safety goggles for 

operators and shields and hood guards on grinders. Hold 

portable grinders securely when using.

Whetstones

Use whetstones to finish sharpened cutting edges or 

when touching up edges in the field. Whetstones are 

natural or manmade. We recommend synthetic abrasives 

for sharpening tools because they are harder than 

natural stones, the uniform honing particles assure an 

even sharpening surface, and they cost less than natural 

stones. If you prefer finishing with a natural stone, use a 

synthetic stone first. This produces a very sharp edge and 

saves expensive natural stones from unnecessary wear 

on rough work.

Most whetstone manufacturers soak new stones in light 

oil. You may also apply oil to the stone’s surface before 

honing to float off pieces of metal and grit and prevent 

them from lodging in the stone’s pores. If the stone glazes 

because the pores fill with shavings, clean it with citrusbased solvent and a stiff brush.

When whetting, use the entire stone surface to maintain 

its shape. Rotate the stone periodically to ensure even 

wear. If the surface becomes uneven, it may be reshaped 

by rubbing it over a sheet of glass sprinkled with 

carborundum powder or on a sheet of coarse sandpaper. 

Keep stone surfaces wet while reshaping them.

S H A R P E N I N G S T O N E S

 Size Cost Sharpening 

Stone Natural Synthetic (inches) (dollars) Use Speed

 

Black hard Arkansas X 8x2x1 50 to 60 Edge polishing Very slow

Hard white Arkansas X 8x2x1 30 to 40 Edge finishing Slow

Soft Arkansas X 8x2x1 15 to 20 Sharpening Medium

Washita X 8x2xl 25 to 30 Shaping-roughing Fast

Silicon carbide X 8x2xl 8 to 10 Roughing to sharpening Fast to medium

India X 8x2xl 8 to 10 Roughing to sharpening Fast to medium

Crystolon X 8x2xl 8 to 10 Roughing to sharpening Fast to medium

Diamond-nickel X 6x2x11⁄

16 25 to 30 Sharpening hard steels Medium

Silicarbide-rubber X 8x2xl 8 to 10 Deburring Fast

Tools for Sharpening
45

ools for Rehandling

Plastic wedges used for securing tool heads. 

Wooden wedges are the choice of traditionalists.

Plastic wedge

27

⁄8 inches

21

⁄4 inches

About Rehandling

Wood handles are common to most trail tools and are the 

most common type of replacement handle. Hickory makes 

the best handles for impact tools because it combines 

hardness and stiffness with excellent resiliency. For bent 

handles or simple handholds, ash is usually used.

When choosing tool handles, remember that straight grains 

offer maximum flexibility and strength. If possible, the 

grain should also be tight and knot-free, and it should run 

parallel to the wedge slot. Avoid coated handles. Painting or 

staining can hide flaws in materials or construction.

Fastening Wedges

The best wedges for securing tool heads are hardwood or 

plastic. Traditionalists swear that wooden wedges are best,

but many new tools are equipped with plastic wedges. 

Avoid metal wedges for fastening heads to handles; 

these crush and weaken handle wood and make broken 

handles difficult to remove by drilling.

Sometimes a handle may need only a new wedge 

because the handle was not broken but loosened. In this 

case, carefully drill out the old wedge; remove the handle; 

clean the slot; and replace the handle on the head.

The grain of ax handles should run parallel to the wedge slot.

Good

Bad

Diagram of the wedge slot and end grain of ax handles.

Good Bad
46

Rehandling Procedures

Regularly inspect all tool handles and replace any 

cracked, rough, or badly weathered handles as soon as 

possible. When a tool needs a new handle, follow this 

step-by-step procedure. We have selected ax handles 

as the example for this discussion, but the technique is 

adaptable to other trail tools:

❏ Clear the eye of the tool. To remove worn or broken 

handles from the eye of a tool, place it upright in a vise 

and drill several holes into the wood from the top. These 

holes relieve pressure on the wood inside the eye so it 

can be driven out with a hammer and punch. If heads are 

epoxy-bonded to handles, soak the head in boiling water 

to soften the bond.

❏ Size up the tool and match an appropriate handle to 

the head. All handles will need some reshaping by hand 

to fit the head. Be sure that the top of the handle will fill 

the eye of the tool in both length and width.

❏ Saw the handle to an approximately correct length. 

If the handle was not factory sawed to accept a wedge, 

remove the head, secure the handle, and carefully saw 

down about two-thirds the depth of the head.

❏ Inscribe two perpendicular centering lines across the 

length and width of the handle end inside the eye. You will 

use them as a guide/check for centering the handle in the 

eye later. Make an additional mark below the head and 

just above where the handle broadens to denote the final 

seat for the head.

❏ Slowly remove excess material from the handle using 

a spoke shave, wood rasp, or grinder.

❏ Fit the eye of the tool to the handle. Light tapping on 

the tool head will allow repeated removal of the handle 

without damaging the wedge slot. Continue shaving and 

fitting until the head rests squarely 1

⁄

4

 to 3⁄

8

 inch above the 

final seating mark. Make sure that the head is straight on 

the handle.

❏ With tool head aligned perpendicular with the handle, 

draw a line across both sides of the handle at the final 

seating mark. Saw a shallow cut along these lines to 

create a square shoulder. Fit the tool head to rest lightly 

on this shoulder.

❏ With rasp and sandpaper, uniformly backslope the 

handle from the perimeter of the handle to where the 

head finally seats. Carefully smoothing the handle just 

below the head prevents splintering.

❏ Use a long tapered wedge that extends the full width 

of the slot to attach the head to the handle. Drive the 

wedge into the slot, and tap alternately on the wedge and 

the end of the handle until the striking tool bounces off 

each with equal force. Use epoxy to fill remaining voids 

between the handle and the eye and seal out moisture.

❏ After the epoxy sets, trim excess wood flush with the 

top of the head. A hacksaw works best here because the 

blade will not be dulled by the metal, and because the 

saw blade can be turned 90° on the frame.

❏ Remove any varnish or paint from the handle. A light 

coating of raw linseed oil regularly applied will protect 

against drying and cracking. Some woods workers 

recommend drilling short holes in the base of the handle 

and periodically filling them with linseed oil. The oil 

penetrates the entire handle through natural pores in the 

wood.

A loose handle can be temporarily tightened in the field by 

soaking the head in water or linseed oil. The wood in the 

head swells to accommodate the fluid and fits tighter in 

the eye. Make permanent repairs as soon as possible.

Handles may also be shaved to fit individual grips more 

comfortably to reduce impact shock and hand and arm 

cramps. When shaving handles, proceed slowly and 

carefully; it is better to remove too little wood and have to 

trim again than to remove too much and have a weak or 

unusable handle.

Tools for Rehandling
47

A—Size up the tool head and match it to the handle. Note that the 

 handle protrudes excessively long through the head. Scribe it to be 

 cut off.

B—Saw the handle to about the correct length. The handle has been 

 roughly fitted so the head slides to within about 1

⁄

2

 inch of the final 

 seating position.

C—A line has been scribed below the roughly-fitted handle. The line 

 denotes the final shoulder upon which the head sets.

D—The tool head has been snug-fitted to the square seating 

 shoulder. Note that there is about 1

⁄

2

 inch excess handle above the 

 head. 

Tools for Rehandling
48

E—All surfaces just below the handle should be sanded smooth 

 before the head is placed to insert the wedge. The wedge has

 been started in kerf.

F—The wedge has been driven home with the alternate driving of 

 the wedge and the end of the tool handle.

G—Use a hacksaw to trim off the excess handle and wedge flush 

 with the tool head. Turn the saw blade 90° on the frame to facilitate 

 the flush cut.

H—The finished mounted tool. The handle can be finish-sanded and 

 oiled with raw linseed oil to protect against moisture.

Tools for Rehandling
49

ibliography

The recreational trails publications produced by the 

Missoula and San Dimas Technology and Development 

Centers are available at the Recreational Trails Program 

Web site of the Federal Highway Administration, U.S. 

Department of Transportation <http://www.fhwa.dot.gov

/environment/rectrails/trailpub.htm>.

Electronic versions of the trails publications plus a broader 

collection of recreation publications produced by the Missoula

and San Dimas Technology and Development Centers 

are available at the Technology and Development Internet 

site <http://www.fs.fed.us/eng/pubs> and at their internal 

computer networks <http://fsweb.mtdc.wo.fs.fed.us

/search> and <http://fsweb.sdtdc.wo.fs.fed.us/search>.

Birchard, William, Jr.; Proudman, Robert D. 2000. Appalachian trail design, construction, and maintenance: 

2nd ed. Harpers Ferry, WV: Appalachian Trail Conference. ISBN 1–917953–72–X. 237 p. (Copies for sale at 

888–287–8673.)

Birkby, Robert C. 1996. Lightly on the land: the 

SCA manual of backcountry work skills, Student 

Conservation Association. The Mountaineers. ISBN 

0–89886–491–7. 272 p. (Copies for sale at 603–543–

1700.)

Demrow, Carl; Salisbury, David. 1998. The complete guide 

to trail building and maintenance. 3d ed. Boston, MA: 

Appalachian Mountain Club. 1SBN 1–878239–54–6. 

246 p. (Copies for sale at 800–262–4455.)

Didier, Steve; Herzberg, Diane. 1996. Stock-drawn equipment for trail work. Tech. Rep. 9623–2802–MTDC. 

Missoula, MT: U.S. Department of Agriculture, Forest 

Service, Missoula Technology and Development Center. 

22 p. (Copies available at 406–329–3978.)

Gonzales, Ralph. 1996. Mechanized trail equipment. 

Tech. Rep. 9623–1207–SDTDC. San Dimas, CA: U.S. 

Department of Agriculture, Forest Service, San Dimas 

Technology and Development Center. 85 p. (Copies 

available at 909–599–1267, ext. 113.)

Griswold, Stephen S. 1996. A handbook on trail building 

and maintenance. 5th ed. Three Rivers, CA: U.S. 

Department of the Interior, National Park Service. 

Sequoia Natural History Association. 136 p. (Copies for 

sale at 559–565–3758.)

Meyer, Kevin G. 2002. Managing degraded offhighway vehicle trails in wet, unstable, and sensitive 

environments. Tech Rep. 0223–2821–MTDC. Missoula, 

MT: U.S. Department of Agriculture, Forest Service, 

Missoula Technology and Development Center. 48 p. 

(Copies available at 406–329–3978.)

Michael, David; Vachowski, Brian. 2004. Saws that sing: a 

guide to using crosscut saws. Tech. Rep. 0423–2822P–

MTDC. Missoula, MT: U.S. Department of Agriculture, 

Forest Service, Missoula Technology and Development 

Center. 64 p. (Copies available at 406–329–3978.)

Miller, Warren. 1977 (rev. 2003). Crosscut saw manual. 

Tech. Rep. 7771–2508–MTDC. Missoula, MT: U.S. 

Department of Agriculture, Forest Service, Missoula 

Technology and Development Center. 28 p. (Copies 

available at 406–329–3978.)

Monlux, Steve; Vachowski, Brian; Groenier, James Scott. 

2000 (rev. 2008). Geosynthetics for trails in wet areas. 

Tech. Rep. 0823–2813P–MTDC. Missoula, MT: U.S. 

Department of Agriculture, Forest Service, Missoula 

Technology and Development Center. 18 p. (Copies 

available at 406–329–3978.)

Mrkich, Dale; Oltman, J. 1984. Hand drilling and breaking 

rock for wilderness trail maintenance. Tech. Rep. 8423–

2602–MTDC. Missoula, MT: U.S. Department of Agriculture, Forest Service, Missoula Technology and Development Center. 26 p. (Copies available at 406–329–3978.)

Steinholtz, Robert T.; Vachowski, Brian. 2001 (rev 2007). 

Wetland trail design and construction. Tech. Rep. 

0723–2804P–MTDC. Missoula, MT: U.S. Department 

of Agriculture, Forest Service, Missoula Technology 

and Development Center. 82 p. (Copies available at 

406–329–3978.)

U.S. Department of Agriculture, Forest Service. 1999. 

Health and safety code handbook. FSH 6709.11. 

Washington, DC: U.S. Department of Agriculture, Forest 

Service. 503 p. (Reference copies available at Forest 

Service offices nationwide.)

U.S. Department of Agriculture, Forest Service. 

1985. Trails management handbook. FSH 2309.18. 

Washington, DC: U.S. Department of Agriculture, Forest 

Service. (Reference copies available at Forest Service 

offices nationwide.)
50

Bibliography

U.S. Department of Agriculture, Forest Service. 

1996. Standard specifications for construction and 

maintenance of trails. EM–7720–103. Washington, DC: 

U.S. Department of Agriculture, Forest Service. ISBN 

0–16–048802–8. 108 p. Government Printing Office 

001–001–00661–1 $6.50.

U.S. Department of Agriculture, Forest Service. 1997. 

Standard drawings for construction and maintenance of 

trails. EM–7720–104. Washington, DC: U.S. Department 

of Agriculture, Forest Service (Reference copies 

available at Forest Service offices nationwide.)

U.S. Department of Agriculture, Forest Service. 1998. 

Standards for Forest Service signs and posters. 

EM–7100–15. Washington, DC: U.S. Department of 

Agriculture, Forest Service. (Reference copies available 

at Forest Service offices nationwide.)

U.S. Department of Agriculture, Forest Service. 2008. Trail 

training DVD series (DVD). 0823–2D01–MTDC. Missoula, 

MT: U.S. Department of Agriculture, Forest Service, 

Missoula Technology and Development Center. 215 

minutes. (Copies available at 406–329–3978 and from 

FHWA <http://www.fhwa.dot.gov/environment

/rectrails/trailpub.htm>. DVD includes: Handtools for Trail 

Work, An Ax to Grind, Constructing Trail Switchbacks, 

Basic Trail Maintenance, Trails in Wet Areas: Turnpike 

and Puncheon Construction, and Surface Water Control 

Techniques for Trial Maintenance.)

Vachowski, Brian; Maier, Neal. 1998. Off-highway vehicle 

trail and road grading equipment. Tech. Rep. 9823–2837–

MTDC. Missoula, MT: U.S. Department of Agriculture, 

Forest Service, Missoula Technology and Development 

Center. 20 p. (Copies available at 406–329–3978.)

Volunteers for Outdoor Colorado. 1992. Crew leader manual.

Denver, CO: Volunteers for Outdoor Colorado. 109 p. 

(Copies for sale at 303–715–1010, ext. 20.)

Weisgerber, Bernie; Vachowski, Brian. 1999. An ax to grind:

a practical ax manual. Tech. Rep. 9923–2823P–MTDC. 

Missoula, MT: U.S. Department of Agriculture, Forest 

Service, Missoula Technology and Development Center. 

60 p. (Copies available at 406–329–3978.)

Wernex, Joe. 1994. Off highway motorcycle & ATV trails 

guidelines for design, construction, maintenance and 

user satisfaction. 2nd ed. Pickerington, OH: American 

Motorcyclist Association. 56 p. (Copies for sale at 614–

856–1900.)
51

ppendix—American Pattern Files
52

Appendix—American Pattern Files
53

ndex

Adze hoe ..................................................... 19

Anvil lopping shears....................................... 23

Arc-ground saw................................................ 6

Asymmetric crosscut saw ................................ 5

Axes................................................ 13,14,25,39

Bank blades ................................................. 24

Bark spuds..................................................... 37

Bars .......................................................... 22,33

Bastard cut file............................................... 42

Bastard file................................. 23,25,26,43,51

Bench grinder................................................ 43

Bevel angle.................................................... 43

Bevel edge........................................... 29,41,44

Blade bevel.................................................... 41

Block and tackles........................................... 33

Bow saw ........................................................7,8

Broadaxes............................................ 13,38,39

Brush axes..................................................... 25

Brush cutters.................................................. 24

Brushing tools...........................................23-38

Bucking crosscut saw ...................................... 5

Bush hook...................................................... 24

Cant hook..................................................... 34

Carpenter’s adze ...................................... 38,39

Clamp-type bow saw ....................................... 7

Chisel tip........................................................ 18

Clearing knife................................................. 25

Combi tool ................................................. 17,18

Combination tool........................................ 17,18

Corn knife ...................................................... 27

Council bank blade ........................................ 25

Crescent-ground saw....................................... 6

Crosscut saw ................................................... 7

Crosscut sheath............................................... 6

Crowbar......................................................... 33

Cutter mattock................................................ 19

Cutting adze.............................................. 38,39

Digging bar................................................... 22

Digging tools ................................................. 21

Double-bit ax ................................................. 13

Double-edge pruners....................................... 9

Double jacking .......................................... 29,31

Draw hoe ....................................................... 20

Drawinife........................................................ 37

Driving sledge................................................ 29

Electric bench grinder .................................. 43

Engineer’s hammer ....................................... 30

Entrenching tool............................................. 17

Fastening wedges ........................................ 45

Feathers......................................................... 29

Felling crosscut saw ........................................ 5

File brush....................................................... 43

Files ................................. 14,18,21,23,25,41,42

Fire hose saw sheath....................................... 6

Flat-ground crosscut saw................................. 5

Folding pruning saw ........................................ 9

Fulcrum................................................ 21,33,35

Gloves......................................3,8,14,27,31,44

Goggles ................................................ 17,18,44

Grass hook .................................................... 28

Grass nail ...................................................... 27

Grass whip..................................................... 28

Grinders............................................... 18,41,43

Grinding wheel............................................... 43

Grindstone..................................................... 41

Grub hoe ................................................... 17,19

Grubbing tools ...........................................17-19

Hammers ................................................ 29,31

Hammering tools ........................................... 29

Hand chain saw............................................... 7

Hand drilling hammer .................................... 29

Handles ....................................... 9,13,19,30,45

Hand pruner................................................... 33

Hatchet .......................................................... 14

Hauling tools............................................. 33,35

Hazel hoe ...................................................... 19

Hewing........................................................... 38

Hoes ..........................................................17-19

Hook-type lopping shears.............................. 23

Jam pike....................................................... 34

Kerf ................................................................ 7

Kinking............................................................. 7

Knuckle guard........................................... 42,43

Levers............................................ 12,21,31,33

Lifting tools................................................ 33,35

Limbing....................................................... 8-10

Log dogs........................................................ 39

Lopping shears .............................................. 23

Lubricating................................................7,8,44

Machete....................................................... 26

Mattocks ........................................................ 19

Mauls............................................................. 29

McLeod.......................................................... 18

Mill file....................................................... 42,51

Nailing hammer............................................ 31

Nib ................................................................. 27

Notching ......................................................7,14

Peavy ........................................................... 34

Peeling spud.................................................. 37

Peeling tools ............................................. 37-39

Pick........................................................... 18,21

Pick mattock................................................... 19

Plumb-hammer hatchet ................................. 15

Pole pruner................................................10,11

Pole saw ........................................................ 10

Pounding tools ..........................................29-31

Pruners ....................................................... 9,23

Pruning saw..................................................... 9

Prying bars................................................ 22,33

Pulaski .......................................................17,42

Raker teeth..................................................... 7

Rasp .............................................................. 46

Rasp cut ........................................................ 42

Rehandling .................................................... 45

Round file ...................................................... 51

Safety................... 3,5,13,17,18,21,24,26,31,44

Sandstone wheel ...................................... 41,43

Sandvik ax ..................................................... 25

Saw.................................................................. 5

Scythe............................................................ 27

Segment-ground saw....................................... 6

Shaping tools............................................ 41-44

Sharpening...................8,10,14,17-19,21,22,26,

 27,37,41,43

Sharpening stone .......................................... 44

Sharpening tools....................................... 41,44

Shears ........................................................... 23

Sheaths ........................................................ 3,5

Shovels.......................................................... 21

Sickle............................................................. 28

Single-bit ax................................................... 13

Single jacking ................................................ 29

Sledge hammer ............................................. 29

Snath ............................................................. 27

Stone sledge.................................................. 29

Storing saws .................................................... 6

Swan neck hoe .............................................. 20

Swedish brush ax .......................................... 25

Symmetric crosscut ......................................... 5

Tackle........................................................... 33

Tamping bar................................................... 22

Tamping tools ................................................ 22

Taper-ground crosscut saw.............................. 5

Telescoping tree pruner..................................11

Timber carrier ................................................ 35

Tobacco knife................................................. 27

Tongs............................................................. 35

Transporting tools ..............3,6,9,14,17,21-23,27,

 35,37

Tree pruner .................................................... 10

Tree trimmer .................................................. 14

Underbucking................................................. 7

Undercutting .................................................... 7

Utility saw ...................................................... 10

Wedges ................................................7,12,45

Weed cutter ..............................................26-28

Weed hook .................................................... 28

Weed knife................................................ 26,28

Wheelbarrow.................................................. 34

Whetstone ........................18,23,26,28,35,37,44

Woodsman’s Pal ............................................ 26
54

Notes

Index
Hallman, Richard G. (retired). 2005. Handtools for trail work:

2005 edition. Tech. Rep. 0523–2810P–MTDC. Missoula, MT:

U.S. Department of Agriculture, Forest Service, Missoula 

Technology and Development Center. 54 p.

Describes the handtools commonly used by Forest 

Service trail crews for sawing, chopping, grubbing, digging and tamping, brushing, pounding and hammering, 

lifting and hauling, peeling and shaping, sharpening, 

and rehandling. Includes many illustrations of the tools. 

Electronic copies of MTDC’s documents are available 

on the Internet at:

http://www.fs.fed.us/eng/pubs

For further technical information, contact MTDC.

Phone: (406) 329–3900

Fax: (406) 329–3719

Forest Service and Bureau of Land Management employees can search MTDC’s documents, CDs, DVDs, 

and videos on their internal computer network at:

http://fsweb.mtdc.wo.fs.fed.us/search

Library Card

Updates Handtools for Trail Work, originally published in 

1988 (8823–2601–MTDC). The updates include a new, 

more comprehensive bibliography of trail construction and 

maintenance references and updated information about a 

few pieces of equipment that appeared promising in 1988, 

but were not widely adopted.

Keywords: axes, bibliographies, hammers, hand tools, 

saws, sharpening, tools
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