# Patent

## Title
Process for semi-permanent straightening of curly, frizzy or wavy hair

## Abstract

The process of the invention provides for a preventive hair treatment with buffering agent, in particular glyoxylic acid in combination with mechanical straightening with hair straightening iron at temperature of approximately 200° C.+/−50° C.

## Background
The present patent application for industrial invention relates to a process used to semi-permanently straighten curly, frizzy or wavy hair.

    1. Glyoxylic acid: it is an alpha-keto acid that can be found in crystalline monohydrate form (CAS No.: 563-96-2) or in aqueous solution (CAS No.: 298-12-4).


Main synonyms: Formylformic acid; alpha-Ketoacetic acid; Glyoxalic acid; Oxalaldehydic acid; Oxoacetic acid; Oxoethanoic acid and others. Its use in the cosmetic sector is considered safe and permitted without any restrictions with indication of the buffering agent function of the pH.

    2. Alpha-keto acids: Alpha-keto acids are acids with a carbonylic group in alpha position with respect to the carbon atom of the carboxylic group.
    3. Semi-perm: treatment of curly or frizzy hair to straighten it with permanence in such a condition for a number of washings higher than 5.
    4. Hair straightening iron: Electrical heating device used in association with a combination of heat and pressure to straighten hair. It is generally composed of two flat heating elements, covered with various materials, between which a lock of hair is pressed at a time. Hair straightening irons are commonly found on the market.
    5. Hairdryer: ordinary hair-drying device with heating resistance and fan.
    6. Buffering agents: substances dissolved in water to prevent pH changing in the solution for moderate additions of acids or bases (buffering).


Human hair is divided in two types:

    
    
        a first type of hair, the so-called “Afro” hair (hair with diameter of 70-100 microns), of generally dark color, characterized in that it is more or less curly according to the amount of disulphide groups between the amino acidic chains of keratin (human hair's base protein);
        a second type of hair, the so-called “Caucasian” hair (hair with lower diameter than “Afro” hair), either of dark or light color, characterized in that it is less curly than the “Afro” hair, due to the lower amount of disulphide bridges in its keratin structure.
    
    


Three types of techniques are currently used to straighten curly or frizzy hair:

    
    
        a. Treatment with electrical plates basically composed of two hot plates (with temperature higher than 100° C.), between which hair is placed and pressed to obtain desired styling. The result disappears after the first washing with water and shampoo.
        b. Low-temperature chemical and mechanical treatment: chemical substances are applied to hair, which is treated at temperatures lower than 100° C., to induce transitory modifications in the aspect of the capillary fiber that disappear after washing hair with water and shampoo.
        c. High-temperature chemical and mechanical treatment: chemical substances are applied to hair, which is treated at temperatures higher than 100° C. (same technique as a) above), to induce transitory modifications in the aspect of the capillary fiber that disappear after washing hair with water and shampoo.
    
    


Currently, the problem is that, although chemical substances able to straighten human curly, frizzy or wavy hair are known on the market, said substances are impaired by high-toxicity for man and high aggressiveness for hair (i.e.: formaldehyde, sodium hydroxide, sulphur compounds, etc.).
Moreover, it must be said that these processes with chemical substances do not guarantee that treated hair will remain straighten for long after straightening.
The purpose of the present invention is to devise a new chemical-mechanical process (similar to the one illustrated under c) above) to straighten hair semi-permanently (once treated hair will remain straight after a number of washings higher than 5). The innovation consists in the identification of a group of chemical substances that, when combined with a high-temperature mechanical treatment, unlike the state of the art, allow for obtaining straight, soft, shiny and volumeless hair from curly and frizzy hair, said characteristics being maintained also after repeated washings with water and shampoo.
A further purpose of the invention is to devise a process with the aforesaid features, which uses buffering agents in very low percentage, and in any case lower than the values used in the known process, thus reducing the stress for treated hair.
These purposes are achieved according to the invention, with the characteristics that are listed in the attached independent claim 1.
Advantageous realizations appear from the dependent claims.
The process of the invention provides for the combined action of mechanical pressing with hot plates at a temperature of approximately 200° C. (+/−50° C.) with preventive hair treatment with a solution containing a buffering agent.
More precisely, the process provides for:

    
    
        a) Application on hair of a solution containing a buffering acid agent from the alpha-ketoacids family;
        b) Permanence of said substance in contact with hair for 15 to 120 minutes;
        c) Hair drying,
        d) Straightening of hair with hair straightening iron at temperature of approximately 200+/−50 C.°;
    
    


In particular, the process of the invention has proved to induce semi-permanent modifications in the hair structure, which will remain such after repeatedly washing hair in normal conditions of use.
Studies carried out on the chemical substances that are already used in the cosmetic sector and tests carried out on hair have resulted in the selection of some substances, which are already known for their pH buffering properties, which, when used in combination with mechanical straightening, allow for semi-permanently eliminating the typical curves that characterize curly, frizzy or wavy hair.
In particular, the reduction or elimination of “curves” in hair is expressed as easier-to-comb hair and lower global volume of the capillary fiber due to the elimination of said curves (and, consequently, a reduction of the volume occupied by hair in the space).
Table 1 contains a list of all buffering agents that are known today and are included in the European Inventory of ingredients used in cosmetic products, attached to Decision no. 1996/335/CE dated Aug. 5, 1996, and following amendments and integrations.
The process according to the invention advantageously uses glyoxylic acid in aqueous solution, which has demonstrated to give appreciable results compared to the other buffering agents contained in the aforementioned list.
Moreover, also the substances listed in Table 2 have been tested, mixed with one of the buffering agents, which are contained in the list attached to the Decision no. 1996/335/CE dated Aug. 5, 1996 and following amendments and integrations.
Further characteristics of the invention will become apparent from the detailed description below.
Amongst the substances contained in the European list of ingredients used in cosmetic products and having a buffering function that have been experimented within the process of the invention, glyoxylic acid has given the best results.
Tests consisted in dissolving 10 grams of glyoxylic acid in 100 milliliters of water.
More precisely, with ponderal ratio comprised between 5 and 25%.
In one embodiment, the process further comprises prewashing the hair with a basic shampoo having a pH of from 7.5 to 9.5 prior to applying the solution, and rinsing said hair after said straightening. In particular, hair was washed with basic pH (7.5-8.5) shampoo, then said glyoxylic acid solution was applied (application can be made with hard bristle brush, spray or in any other way).
However, it must be noted that said pre-washing with said basic pH shampoo did not prove to be fundamental for semi-permanent hair straightening.
Hair was left in contact with the substance for 60 minute time (+/−30 minutes) and then dried with the hairdryer.
Once dried, hair was straightened with hair straightening iron heated at average temperature of approximately 200 C.°, +/−50 C.°. It must be noted that the materials of the iron plates do not affect the process of the invention.
In one embodiment, the process further comprises washing the hair with an acidic shampoo having a pH of approximately from 4.5 to 5.5 after the straightening. Finally, hair was rinsed again with water or washed again with shampoo and dried.
At the end of treatment, hair was shiny, straight, volumeless, soft to touch, and especially pleasant.
The tests demonstrated the efficacy of the invention both on natural and chemically dyed or bleached hair.
It was experimentally proved that the efficacy of treatment is maintained over time for at least six washings, rinsings and dryings in normal use conditions of hair shampoo (as confirmed by the values contained in the tables attached to the end of this description: Tables 1-A to 1-D).
Further tests were carried out by adding one of the substances listed in table 2 to the glyoxylic acid solution.
Each substance was tested in a mixture with such glyoxylic acid solution by adding 10 grams of one of the substances listed in table 2 to 100 milliliters of said solution.
Following is a typical composition of said mixture:


EXAMPLE 1

















Water
100 
milliliters



Glyoxylic acid
10 
grams



Potassium iodide
10 
grams










EXAMPLE 2

















Water
100 
milliliters



Glyoxylic acid
10 
grams



Dihydroxyacetone
10 
grams










EXAMPLE 3

















Water
100 
milliliters



Glyoxylic acid
10 
grams



Ozonized jojoba oil
10 
grams



Inert emulsifying agent (glycerol)
10 
grams










EXAMPLE 4

















Water
100 
milliliters



Glyoxylic acid
10 
grams



2,4 hexadienal
10 
grams










In example 3 an emulsifying agent (glycerol), which is inert for hair straightening, was added to the solution to facilitate ozonized jojoba oil dispersion in aqueous solution.
The mixture obtained in example 3 is an oily mixture due to the use of jojoba oil.
Also at the end of treatments carried out with the mixtures illustrated in examples 1, 2, 3 and 4, hair was shiny, straight, volumeless, soft to touch and especially pleasant; moreover, hair straightening was tested in terms of time permanence.
Further tests were carried out to see whether the effect obtained with aqueous solutions could be repeated also when said substances were part of a commercial cosmetic formulation (i.e. mixed with other substances that are normally used in the cosmetic sector).
An additional test was carried out by adding glyoxylic acid (and its mixtures with potassium iodide, dihydroxyacetone, ozonized jojoba oil and 2,4 hexadienal illustrated in examples 1, 2, 3 and 4) with hair treatment cosmetics found on the market.
In particular, a hair straightening test was carried out using the formulation of a cosmetic product by INOAR Cosmeticos Ltda of San Paulo, Brazil, known as “Tratamento capillar marroquino”. The product was deprived of its active ingredient for hair straightening.
10 grams of glyoxylic acid were added to 100 milliliters of said cosmetic and, after carrying out the same hair treatment operations illustrated in the foregoing pages, the results were identical to the ones achieved using the same percentage ratio of glyoxylic acid in water.
At the end of treatment, hair was permanently shiny, straight, volumeless, and soft to touch, and with an especially pleasant look.
Similar results were obtained from four tests made with four mixtures identical to the ones of examples 1, 2, 3, and 4, using 100 milliliters of cosmetic product instead of 100 milliliters of acidulated water.
Hair was straight, volumeless, soft to touch and especially shiny when exposed to sunlight or artificial light.
Experimentally, it was finally ascertained that the best range is comprised between 5% and 25% of the substances listed in table 2, so that the weight percentage of each of them is included between 5% and 25%, with completion to 100 made of inert substances with respect to straightening of curly, frizzy or wavy hair.
It must be noted that tests have demonstrated that the hair straightening effect, with consequent volume reduction, is not appreciated when heating hair at temperatures of approximately 50-60° C. with an ordinary hairdryer, whereas it is clearly visible until the first rinsing and/or shampooing in case of treatment for a few seconds at temperatures of approximately 200+/−50 C.°.
Said tests have also demonstrated that the higher the contact time of the invention and its mixtures with the capillary fiber, the higher the hair straightening effect will be.







TABLE 1-A







GLYOXYLIC ACID


“AFRO” NATURAL CURLY HAIR IRON at 200° C.


STRAIGHTENING EFFECT ASSESSMENT (curve reduction)

















pH after










contact
after no.
after no.
after no.
after no.
after no.
after no.




with hair
1
2
3
4
5
6



pH of
washed
washing
washings
washings
washings
washings
washings



initial
with basic
and
and
and
and
and
and


TESTED MIX
mix
shampoo
drying
dryings
dryings
dryings
dryings
dryings


















WATER 100 ml
5.5
6.0
(−)
(−)
(−)
(−)
(−)
(−)


WATER 95 ml +
2.1
2.1
(+++)
(++)
(+)
(+)
(+)
(+/−)


GLYOXYLIC ACID 5 g


WATER 90 ml +
2.0
2.0
(++++)
(+++)
(++)
(++)
(++)
(+)


GLYOXYLIC ACID 10 g


WATER 85 ml +
1.8
1.8
(+++)
(+++)
(++)
(++)
(++)
(+)


GLYOXYLIC ACID 15 g


WATER 80 ml +
1.6
1.6
(++)
(++)
(+)
(+)
(+)
(+/−)


GLYOXYLIC ACID 20 g


WATER 80 ml +
1.5
1.5
(++)
(++)
(+)
(+)
(+)
(+/−)


GLYOXYLIC ACID 25 g


WATER 100 ml +
2.0
2.0
(++)
(++)
(+)
(+)
(+/−)
(+/−)


GLYOXYLIC ACID 10 g +


Potassium Iodide 10 g


WATER 100 ml +
2.0
2.0
(+++)
(+++)
(+)
(++)
(+)
(+/−)


GLYOXYLIC ACID 10 g +


Dihydroxyacetone 10 g


WATER 100 ml +
2.0
2.0
(++++)
(+++)
(++)
(+)
(+)
(+/−)


GLYOXYLIC ACID 10 g +


Ozonized Jojoba Oil 10 g +


glycerol 10 g


WATER 100 ml +
2.0
2.0
(+++)
(++)
(+)
(+)
(+/−)
(+/−)


GLYOXYLIC ACID 10 g +


2,4 Hexadienal 10 g


GLYOXILIC ACID 10 g +
2.1
2.1
(++++)
(+++)
(++)
(++)
(++)
(+)


cosmetic base 100 ml


GLYOXYLIC ACID 10 g +
2.0
2.1
(++)
(++)
(+)
(+)
(+/−)
(+/−)


Potassium Iodide 10 gr +


cosmetic base 100 ml


GLYOXILIC ACID 10 g +
1.9
1.9
(+++)
(+++)
(+)
(++)
(+)
(+/−)


Dihydroxyacetone 10 g +


cosmetic base 100 ml


GLYOXYLIC ACID 10 g +
2.1
1.9
(++++)
(+++)
(++)
(+)
(+)
(+/−)


Ozonized Jojoba Oil 10 g +


cosmetic base 100 ml


GLYOXYLIC ACID 10 g +
2.0
1.9
(+++)
(++)
(+)
(+)
(+/−)
(+/−)


Dihydroxyacetone 10 g +


cosmetic base 100 ml


MEASURED


No effect
Reduction
Reduction
Reduction
Reduction
100%


PARAMETER



lower
between
between
between
reduction






than 25%
26 and 50%
51 and 75%
76 and 90%


% Reduction of curves


−
+/−
+
++
+++
++++


in 20 cm of hair


(residual curves/total


curves *100)
















TABLE 1-B







GLYOXYLIC ACID


“European” NATURAL CURLY HAIR IRON at 200° C.


STRAIGHTENING EFFECT ASSESSMENT (curve reduction)

















pH after










contact
after no.
after no.
after no.
after no.
after no.
after no.




with hair
1
2
3
4
5
6



pH of
washed
washing
washings
washings
washings
washings
washings



initial
with basic
and
and
and
and
and
and


TESTED MIX
mix
shampoo
drying
dryings
dryings
dryings
dryings
dryings


















WATER 100 ml
5.5
6.0
(−)
(−)
(−)
(−)
(−)
(−)


WATER 95 ml +
2.1
2.1
(+++)
(++)
(++)
(+)
(+)
(+/−)


GLYOXYLIC ACID 5 g


WATER 90 ml +
2.0
2.0
(++++)
(+++)
(+++)
(++)
(++)
(++)


GLYOXYLIC ACID 10 g


WATER 85 ml +
1.8
1.8
(+++)
(+++)
(+++)
(+++)
(++)
(++)


GLYOXYLIC ACID 15 g


WATER 80 ml +
1.6
1.6
(++)
(++)
(+)
(+)
(+)
(+/−)


GLYOXYLIC ACID 20 g


WATER 80 ml +
1.5
1.5
(++)
(++)
(+)
(+)
(+)
(+/−)


GLYOXYLIC ACID 25 g


WATER 100 ml +
2.0
2.0
(++)
(++)
(+)
(+)
(+/−)
(+/−)


GLYOXYLIC ACID 10 g +


Potassium Iodide 10 g


WATER 100 ml +
2.0
2.0
(+++)
(+++)
(++)
(++)
(+)
(+)


GLYOXYLIC ACID 10 g +


Dihydroxyacetone 10 g


WATER 100 ml +
2.0
2.0
(++++)
(+++)
(++)
(+)
(+)
(+)


GLYOXYLIC ACID 10 g +


Ozonized Jojoba Oil 10 g +


glycerol 10 g


WATER 100 ml +
2.0
2.0
(+++)
(++)
(+)
(+)
(+)
(+)


GLYOXYLIC ACID 10 g +


2,4 Hexadienal 10 g


GLYOXYLIC ACID 10 g +
2.1
2.1
(++++)
(+++)
(++)
(++)
(++)
(+)


cosmetic base 100 ml


GLYOXYLIC ACID 10 g +
2.0
2.1
(+++)
(++)
(++)
(++)
(+)
(+)


Potassium Iodide 10 gr +


cosmetic base 100 ml


GLYOXYLIC ACID 10 g +
1.9
1.9
(+++)
(+++)
(++)
(++)
(+)
(+)


Dihydroxyacetone 10 g +


cosmetic base 100 ml


GLYOXYLIC ACID 10 g +
2.1
1.9
(++++)
(+++)
(++)
(++)
(+)
(+)


Ozonized Jojoba Oil 10 g +


cosmetic base 100 ml


GLYOXYLIC ACID 10 g +
2.0
1.9
(+++)
(++)
(++)
(++)
(+)
(+)


Dihydroxyacetone 10 g +


cosmetic base 100 ml


MEASURED


No effect
Reduction
Reduction
Reduction
Reduction
100%


PARAMETER



lower
between
between
between
reduction






than 25%
26 and 50%
51 and 75%
76 and 90%


% Reduction of curves


−
+/−
+
++
+++
++++


in 20 cm of hair


(residual curves/total


curves *100)
















TABLE 1-C







GLYOXYLIC ACID


“AFRO” NATURAL CURLY HAIR IRON at 200° C.


VOLUME REDUCTION ASSESSMENT (reduction of hair spatial volume)

















pH after










contact
after no.
after no.
after no.
after no.
after no.
after no.




with hair
1
2
3
4
5
6



pH of
washed
washing
washings
washings
washings
washings
washings



initial
with basic
and
and
and
and
and
and


TESTED MIX
mix
shampoo
drying
dryings
dryings
dryings
dryings
dryings


















WATER 100 ml
5.5
6.0
(−)
(−)
(−)
(−)
(−)
(−)


WATER 95 ml +
2.1
2.1
(++)
(++)
(+)
(+)
(+/−)
(+/−)


GLYOXYLIC ACID 5 g


WATER 90 ml +
2.0
2.0
(++++)
(+++)
(++)
(++)
(++)
(+)


GLYOXYLIC ACID 10 g


WATER 85 ml +
1.8
1.8
(+++)
(+++)
(++)
(++)
(++)
(+)


GLYOXYLIC ACID 15 g


WATER 80 ml +
1.6
1.6
(++)
(++)
(+)
(+)
(+)
(+)


GLYOXYLIC ACID 20 g


WATER 80 ml +
1.5
1.5
(++)
(++)
(+)
(+)
(+)
(+)


GLYOXYLIC ACID 25 g


WATER 100 ml +
2.0
2.0
(++)
(++)
(+)
(+)
(+)
(+)


GLYOXYLIC ACID 10 g +


Potassium Iodide 10 g


WATER 100 ml +
2.0
2.0
(+++)
(+++)
(+)
(++)
(+)
(+)


GLYOXYLIC ACID 10 g +


Dihydroxyacetone 10 g


WATER 100 ml +
2.0
2.0
(++++)
(+++)
(++)
(++)
(+)
(+)


GLYOXYLIC ACID 10 g +


Ozonized Jojoba Oil 10 g +


glycerol 10 g


WATER 100 ml +
2.0
2.0
(+++)
(++)
(++)
(+)
(+)
(+)


GLYOXYLIC ACID 10 g +


2,4 Hexadienal 10 g


GLYOXYLIC ACID 10 g +
2.1
2.1
(++++)
(+++)
(++)
(++)
(++)
(+)


cosmetic base 100 ml


GLYOXYLIC ACID 10 g +
2.0
2.1
(++)
(++)
(+)
(+)
(+/−)
(+)


Potassium Iodide 10 gr +


cosmetic base 100 ml


GLYOXYLIC ACID 10 g +
1.9
1.9
(+++)
(+++)
(+)
(++)
(+)
(+)


Dihydroxyacetone 10 g +


cosmetic base 100 ml


GLYOXYLIC ACID 10 g +
2.1
1.9
(++++)
(+++)
(++)
(+)
(+)
(+)


Ozonized Jojoba Oil 10 g +


cosmetic base 100 ml


GLYOXYLIC ACID 10 g +
2.0
1.9
(+++)
(++)
(++)
(+)
(+)
(+)


Dihydroxyacetone 10 g +


cosmetic base 100 ml


MEASURED PARAMETER


No effect
Reduction
Reduction
Reduction
Reduction
100%






lower
between
between
between
reduction






than 25%
26 and 50%
51 and 75%
76 and 90%


% Reduction of hair


−
+/−
+
++
+++
++++


volume (circumference


of lock with 1.0 g weight


measured at half length)


(final diameter/initial


diameter *100)
















TABLE 1-D







GLYOXYLIC ACID


“European” NATURAL CURLY HAIR IRON at 200° C.


VOLUME REDUCTION ASSESSMENT (reduction of hair spatial volume)

















pH after










contact
after no.
after no.
after no.
after no.
after no.
after no.




with hair
1
2
3
4
5
6



pH of
washed
washing
washings
washings
washings
washings
washings



initial
with basic
and
and
and
and
and
and


TESTED MIX
mix
shampoo
drying
dryings
dryings
dryings
dryings
dryings


















WATER 100 ml
5.5
6.0
(−)
(−)
(−)
(−)
(−)
(−)


WATER 95 ml +
2.1
2.1
(+++)
(++)
(++)
(++)
(+)
(+/−)


GLYOXYLIC ACID 5 g


WATER 90 ml +
2.0
2.0
(++++)
(+++)
(+++)
(++)
(++)
(++)


GLYOXYLIC ACID 10 g


WATER 85 ml +
1.8
1.8
(+++)
(+++)
(+++)
(+++)
(++)
(++)


GLYOXYLIC ACID 15 g


WATER 80 ml +
1.6
1.6
(++)
(++)
(+)
(+)
(+)
(+)


GLYOXYLIC ACID 20 g


WATER 80 ml +
1.5
1.5
(++)
(++)
(++)
(++)
(+)
(+)


GLYOXYLIC ACID 25 g


WATER 100 ml +
2.0
2.0
(++)
(++)
(++)
(+)
(+)
(+)


GLYOXYLIC ACID 10 g +


Potassium Iodide 10 g


WATER 100 ml +
2.0
2.0
(+++)
(+++)
(++)
(++)
(+)
(+)


GLYOXYLIC ACID 10 g +


Dihydroxyacetone 10 g


WATER 100 ml +
2.0
2.0
(++++)
(+++)
(++)
(++)
(+)
(+)


GLYOXYLIC ACID 10 g +


Ozonized Jojoba Oil 10 g +


glycerol 10 g


WATER 100 ml +
2.0
2.0
(+++)
(++)
(+)
(+)
(+)
(+)


GLYOXYLIC ACID 10 g +


2,4 Hexadienal 10 g


GLYOXYLIC ACID 10 g +
2.1
2.1
(++++)
(+++)
(++)
(++)
(++)
(+)


cosmetic base 100 ml


GLYOXYLIC ACID 10 g +
2.0
2.1
(+++)
(++)
(++)
(++)
(+)
(+)


Potassium Iodide 10 gr +


cosmetic base 100 ml


GLYOXYLIC ACID 10 g +
1.9
1.9
(+++)
(+++)
(++)
(++)
(+)
(+)


Dihydroxyacetone 10 g +


cosmetic base 100 ml


GLYOXYLIC ACID 10 g +
2.1
1.9
(++++)
(+++)
(++)
(++)
(+)
(+)


Ozonized Jojoba Oil 10 g +


cosmetic base 100 ml


GLYOXYLIC ACID 10 g +
2.0
1.9
(+++)
(++)
(++)
(++)
(+)
(+)


Dihydroxyacetone 10 g +


cosmetic base 100 ml


MEASURED


No effect
Reduction
Reduction
Reduction
Reduction
100%


PARAMETER



lower
between
between
between
reduction






than 25%
26 and 50%
51 and 75%
76 and 90%


% Reduction of hair


−
+/−
+
++
+++
++++


volume (circumference


of lock with 1.0 g weight


measured at half length)


(final diameter/initial


diameter *100)

















TABLE 1





N.
Name INCI
















1
1,6-HEXANEDIAMINE


2
2-AMINOBUTANOL


4
ACETYL MANDELIC ACID


5
ADIPIC ACID


6
ALUMINUM GLYCINATE


7
ALUMINUM LACTATE


8
ALUMINUM TRIFORMATE


9
AMINOETHYL PROPANEDIOL


10
AMINOMETHYL PROPANEDIOL


11
AMINOMETHYL PROPANOL


12
AMINOPROPANEDIOL


13
AMMONIA


14
AMMONIUM ACETATE


15
AMMONIUM BICARBONATE


16
AMMONIUM CARBAMATE


17
AMMONIUM CARBONATE


18
AMMONIUM CHLORIDE


19
AMMONIUM GLYCOLATE


20
AMMONIUM HYDROXIDE


21
AMMONIUM LACTATE


22
AMMONIUM MOLYBDATE


23
AMMONIUM NITRATE


24
AMMONIUM PHOSPHATE


25
AMMONIUM THIOCYANATE


26
AMMONIUM VANADATE


27
ASCORBIC ACID


28
AZELAIC ACID


29
BABASSU ACID


30
BAKUHAN


31
BENZILIC ACID


32
BIS-HYDROXYETHYL TROMETHAMINE


33
BISMUTH CITRATE


34
BORIC ACID


35
CALCIUM CARBONATE


36
CALCIUM CITRATE


37
CALCIUM DIHYDROGEN PHOSPHATE


38
CALCIUM HYDROXIDE


39
CALCIUM LACTATE


40
CALCIUM OXIDE


41
CALCIUM PHOSPHATE


42
CITRIC ACID


43
CLAY MINERALS


44
CYCLOHEXYLAMINE


45
DECAPEPTIDE-7


46
DIAMMONIUM CITRATE


47
DIAMMONIUM PHOSPHATE


48
DIBUTYL ETHANOLAMINE


49
DIETHYL ETHANOLAMINE


50
DIMETHYL ISOPROPANOLAMINE


51
DIMETHYL MEA


52
DIOLEOYL EDETOLMONIUM METHOSULFATE


53
DIOLEYL PHOSPHATE


54
DIPOTASSIUM PHOSPHATE


55
DIPROPYLENETRIAMINE


56
DISODIUM FUMARATE


57
DISODIUM PHOSPHATE


58
DISODIUM PYROPHOSPHATE


59
DISODIUM TARTRATE


60
ETHANOLAMINE


61
ETHANOLAMINE HCl


62
ETHYL ETHANOLAMINE


63
FUMARIC ACID


64
GALACTURONIC ACID


65
GLUCOHEPTONIC ACID


66
GLUCONIC ACID


67
GLUCURONIC ACID


68
GLUTARIC ACID


69
GLYCINE


70
GLYCOLIC ACID


71
GLYOXYLIC ACID


72
GUANIDINE CARBONATE


73
GUANIDINE HCl


74
HYDROBROMIC ACID


75
HYDROCHLORIC ACID


76
HYDROXYETHYLPIPERAZINE ETHANE SULFONIC ACID


77
IMIDAZOLE


78
ISOBUTYRIC ACID


79
ISOPROPANOLAMINE


80
ISOPROPYLAMINE


81
LACTIC ACID


82
LACTOBIONIC ACID


83
LAURYL p-CRESOL KETOXIME


84
LITHIUM HYDROXIDE


85
MAGNESIUM ACETATE


86
MAGNESIUM CARBONATE HYDROXIDE


87
MAGNESIUM HYDROXIDE


88
MAGNESIUM LACTATE


89
MAGNESIUM OXIDE


90
MALEIC ACID


91
MALIC ACID


92
MALONIC ACID


93
MALTOBIONIC ACID


94
MEA-BORATE


95
METAPHOSPHORIC ACID


96
METHOXY PEG-114/POLYEPSILON CAPROLACTONE


97
METHYLETHANOLAMINE


98
MONOSODIUM CITRATE


99
PENTAPOTASSIUM TRIPHOSPHATE


100
PENTASODIUM TRIPHOSPHATE


101
PHENYL MERCURIC BORATE


102
PHOSPHONOBUTANETRICARBOXYLIC ACID


103
PHOSPHORIC ACID


104
PHOSPHORUS PENTOXIDE


105
POTASSIUM BICARBONATE


106
POTASSIUM BIPHTHALATE


107
POTASSIUM BORATE


108
POTASSIUM CARBONATE


109
POTASSIUM CITRATE


110
POTASSIUM HYDROXIDE


111
POTASSIUM LACTATE


112
POTASSIUM MAGNESIUM ASPARTATE


113
POTASSIUM OXIDE


114
POTASSIUM PHOSPHATE


115
POTASSIUM SODIUM TARTRATE


116
POTASSIUM TARTRATE


117
PROPANE TRICARBOXYLIC ACID


118
QUINIC ACID


119
RIBONIC ACID


120
SEBACIC ACID


121
SODIUM ACETATE


122
SODIUM ALUMINATE


123
SODIUM ALUMINUM LACTATE


124
SODIUM ARACHIDATE


125
SODIUM ASPARTATE


126
SODIUM BICARBONATE


127
SODIUM BISULFATE


128
SODIUM BORATE


129
SODIUM BUTOXYETHOXY ACETATE


130
SODIUM CARBONATE


131
SODIUM CITRATE


132
SODIUM FORMATE


133
SODIUM FUMARATE


134
SODIUM GLYCOLATE


135
SODIUM HUMATE


136
SODIUM HYDROXIDE


137
SODIUM LACTATE


138
SODIUM METAPHOSPHATE


139
SODIUM METASILICATE


140
SODIUM OXIDE


141
SODIUM PHOSPHATE


142
SODIUM SESQUICARBONATE


143
SODIUM SILICATE


144
SODIUM SUCCINATE


145
SODIUM TRIMETAPHOSPHATE


146
STRONTIUM HYDROXIDE


147
SUCCINIC ACID


148
SULFURIC ACID


149
TARTARIC ACID


150
TAURINE


151
TEA-DIRICINOLEATE/IPDI COPOLYMER


152
TEA-HYDROIODIDE


153
TEA-SULFATE


154
TETRAHYDROXYETHYL ETHYLENEDIAMINE


155
TETRAPOTASSIUM PYROPHOSPHATE


156
TETRASODIUM PYROPHOSPHATE


157
TRIETHANOLAMINE


158
TRIISOPROPANOLAMINE


159
TRISODIUM PHOSPHATE


160
TRISODIUM SULFOSUCCINATE


161
TRITICUM VULGARE PROTEIN


162
TRITICUM VULGARE SEED EXTRACT


163
TROMETHAMINE


164
UREA


165
URIC ACID


166
ZINC CARBONATE HYDROXIDE


167
ZINC GLYCINATE


168
ZINC HEXAMETAPHOSPHATE


169
ZINC MAGNESIUM ASPARTATE
















TABLE 2







potassium iodide CAS n. 7681-11-0 (Used as antimicrobial )


dihydroxyacetone CAS n. 96-26-4 (Used as tanning)


Ozonized Jojoba oil (No n. CAS) (Used as emollient )


2,4 Hexadienal CAS n. 142-83-6 (Used as perfuming )

## Claims

1. A process for semi-permanent hair straightening, comprising
a) applying a solution comprising glyoxylic acid at a pH of 1.5-2.1, wherein the hair is prewashed prior to said applying;
b) keeping the solution in contact with hair for 15 to 120 minutes, wherein said keeping has an average duration of 60 minutes;
c) drying the hair, and
d) straightening the hair with a hair straightening iron at temperature of approximately 200+/−50° C.
wherein the hair is human hair and said glyoxylic acid is dissolved in aqueous solution in ponderal ratio between 5% and 10% in weight.

2. The process as claimed in claim 1, further comprising prewashing the hair with a basic shampoo having a pH of from 7.5 to 9.5 prior to said applying; and rinsing said hair after said straightening.

3. The process as claimed in claim 1, further comprising washing the hair with an acidic shampoo having a pH of approximately from 4.5 to 5.5 after said straightening.

4. The process as claimed in claim 1, wherein said glyoxylic acid is mixed with at least one member selected from the group consisting of potassium iodide, dihydroxyacetone, ozonized jojoba oil, and 2,4-hexadienal.

5. The process as claimed in claim 1, wherein said glyoxylic acid is mixed with at least one additive selected from the group consisting of potassium iodide, dihydroxyacetone, ozonized jojoba oil, and 2,4-hexadienal, wherein said at least one additive is present in an amount of 5% to 25% in weight of the solution, and the solution comprises, in an amount to form 100% in weight of the solution, an inert cosmetic substance operable for the straightening of curly, frizzy, or wavy hair.

6. The process as claimed in claim 1, further comprising washing the hair with a shampoo after said straightening.