Repairing 

Your 

Flooded 

Home
2

Repairing Your Flooded Home

Contents

Step 1. Take Care of Yourself First . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Protect yourself and your family from stress, fatigue, and 

health hazards that follow a flood. 

Step 2. Give Your Home First Aid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Once it is safe to go back in, protect your home and contents 

from further damage.

Step 3. Get Organized . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

Some things are not worth repairing and some things may be too 

complicated or expensive for you to do by yourself. A recovery plan 

can take these things into account and help you make the most of your

time and money.

Step 4. Dry Out Your Home . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14

Floodwaters damage materials, leave mud, silt and unknown 

contaminants, and promote the growth of mildew. You need to 

dry your home to reduce these hazards and the damage they cause.

Step 5. Restore the Utilities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20

The rest of your work will be much easier if you have heat, 

electricity, clean water, and sewage disposal.

Step 6. Clean Up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24

The walls, floors, closets, shelves, contents and any other flooded 

parts of your home should be thoroughly washed and disinfected.

Step 7. Check on Financial Assistance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28

Voluntary agencies, businesses, insurance, and government 

disaster programs can help you through recovery.

Step 8. Rebuild and Floodproof. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32

Take your time to rebuild correctly and make improvements 

that will protect your building from damage by the next flood.

Step 9. Prepare for the Next Flood . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40

Protect yourself from the next flood with flood insurance, 

a flood response plan, and community flood protection programs. 

This step also includes sources to go to for additional assistance.

Index. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49

Important Phone Numbers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Inside Back Cover

Safety Precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Inside Back Cover
3

Repairing Your Flooded Home

This information is published by the Federal Emergency Management

Agency (FEMA) and the American Red Cross to help flooded property

owners. It is designed to be easily copied. Permission to reproduce all or

any section of this material is hereby granted and encouraged.

Copies of this book are available from your local Red Cross chapter or

by writing:

FEMA

P. O. Box 2012

Jessup, MD 20794-2012

About This Book
4

Repairing Your Flooded Home

This book gives step-by-step

advice you can use to clean up,

rebuild, and get help after a flood.

Before you start, read the safety

precautions at the top of this document and review the nine steps

that are summarized on the contents pages. 

Your home and its contents

may look beyond hope, but many

of your belongings can be

restored. If you do things right,

your flooded home can be cleaned

up, dried out, rebuilt, and reoccupied sooner than you think.

While you are doing the job

ahead, you should remember these

three important points:

1. Play it safe. The dangers are

not over when the water goes

down. Read the safety precautions at the top of this document. Your home’s foundation

may have been weakened, the

electrical system may have

shorted out, and floodwaters

may have left behind things

that could make you sick.

Many flooded items, such as

wallboard and mattresses, will

hold mud and contamination

forever. When in doubt, throw

it out. Don’t risk injury or

infection.

2. Ask for help. Many people

can do a lot of the clean up and

repairs discussed in this book.

But if you have technical questions or do not feel comfortable

doing something, get professional help. If there is a federal

disaster declaration, a telephone

“hotline” will often be publicized to provide information

about public, private, and voluntary agency programs to help

you recover from the flood.

Government disaster programs

are there to help you, the taxpayer. You’re paying for them;

check them out.

3. Floodproof. It is very likely

that your home will be flooded

again someday. Floodproofing

means using materials and practices that will prevent or minimize flood damage in the

future. Many floodproofing

techniques are inexpensive or

can be easily incorporated into

your rebuilding program. You

can save a lot of money by

floodproofing as you repair and

rebuild. See Step 8. You should

also prepare for the next flood

by buying flood insurance and

writing a flood response plan.

Following A Flood
Repairing Your Flooded Home

5

This book was prepared for the

Federal Emergency Management

Agency under Contract Number

EMW-89-C-3024 and EMW-91-

K-3738. 

FEMA and the American Red

Cross gratefully acknowledge the

thoughtful assistance provided by

the many individuals who

reviewed this book. Reviewers

included repair and reconstruction

contractors, mental health professionals, sociologists, researchers,

disaster assistance specialists, 

insurance experts, underwriters,

structural engineers, public health

agents, floodplain managers, 

emergency managers, education

specialists, editorial experts, and

graphic designers.

Acknowledgements
6

1

STEP

Take Care of Yourself First 

1

STEP

Take Care of Yourself First 

You and your family have been

through a disaster. Your life

has been turned upside down, and

it will take time for things to

return to normal. Take a few 

minutes to review the safety and

health precautions listed at the top

of this document. Also, you should

watch out for symptoms of anxiety,

stress, and fatigue.

With all the cleanup and repair

jobs awaiting you, it may seem

odd to spend the first chapter of a

flood recovery book talking about

emotional issues. But a disaster

can do damage beyond the obvious destruction and debris you see

everywhere. You should recognize

that the flood can take its toll on

you as well as your property. This

first section is designed to remind

you that you need to look after

yourself and your family as you

focus on the obvious tasks of

cleanup and recovery. Your hidden enemy is stress. Watch for it.

Care for Yourself

Your body reacts to stress in many

ways. You may expect to experience one or more of the warning

signs as you deal with the flooding

and recovery. Your body is just

reminding you that times are 

difficult. Reactions to stress are

common and usually temporary.

Need some relief? Here are some

steps you can take to relieve your

tensions. 

Keep the family together

Even in bad times, togetherness

provides mutual support for all

members.

Discuss your problems. Talk

to family and friends. Share your

anxieties. Let others talk to you to

help release tension. Crying is a

natural response to a disaster. It’s

also a great way to release pent-up

emotions.

Rest often and eat well. You

are more likely to suffer from

stress and health problems when

you are weak. Being active helps,

but don’t overdo it. Your body

must have proper rest and nourishment for you to keep going.

Set a manageable schedule.

You have a million things to do,

but you can’t do everything at

once. Make a list and do jobs one

at a time. Establish a schedule to

clean up and rebuild. Following

the steps in this booklet will help

you. Try to return to your preflood routines as quickly as possible. Routines give you something

predictable to depend upon. 

Watch for signs of stress. You

have just been through a disaster

and the recovery period can be

long, hard, and chaotic. Don’t be

surprised if you experience tension

or see signs of stress in family

members. Often other people will

notice problems more readily than

you do. Listen to them.

Seek help. If you cannot shake

feelings of despair or other telltale

signs of stress, get professional

help. Special outreach programs

and crisis counseling are often set

up following a disaster because so

many people need help to cope

with their situation. Contact the

Red Cross for programs available

in your area. 

• Short tempers, frequent 

arguments

• Greater consumption of alcohol

• Smoking more than usual

• Getting upset over minor 

irritations

• Difficulty sleeping, bad dreams

• Aches, pains, stomach problems

• Apathy, loss of concentration

• Depression

Warning Signs of Stress
7

1

STEP

Take Care of Yourself First 

Floodproof as you rebuild.

People who are prepared ahead of

time are better able to deal with

disasters. Getting ready for the

next flood can give you a sense of

control over the future. Besides,

floodproofing will be a definite

improvement to your property. 

Care for your children. 

Watch your children closely. You

can expect to see them display fear

or symptoms of stress.

Fear is a normal reaction to any

danger that threatens a person’s

well-being. Because their daily

routine has been interrupted, children may experience considerable

anxiety and fear. Those feelings

are real and natural. You can help

your children deal with the 

disaster by keeping in mind the

following points.

Try to keep the family 

together. Make an effort to 

establish normal family routines.

Include children in cleanup 

activities. Children need and

want to be important parts of the

family.

Listen to what children say.

Encourage them to talk or 

otherwise express their feelings.

Teenagers may need to talk with

other teenagers.

Explain the disaster factually.

Children have vivid imaginations

and what they don’t understand

can make them fearful. Knowing

the facts can help children deal

better with the disaster. 

Reassure children. Show them

through words and actions that

life will return to normal .

Touching and holding are important. Hugs help. Try to find or

replace pets or favorite toys.

Be understanding. Avoid

scolding children for things that

might be flood-related, such as

bed wetting, thumb sucking, or

clinging to you. Remember, 

they are also going through a

rough time. 

Take care of yourself. Your

children reflect your fears and

worries. If you take care of yourself, you will be better able to help

your children cope.

Stay healthy

Infants, pregnant women, and

people with health problems

should avoid the flooded area

until cleanup is complete. Small

children tend to put things in

their mouths. Pregnant women

need to be cautious to avoid

injury and exposure to disease.

People with health problems are

more likely to get sick or be

injured.

The Red Cross can help you

replace medicine or lost prescriptions after a disaster.

Your body is used to being

clean. When you work in an area

that has been flooded, you will be

exposed to dangerous chemicals

and germs that you are not used

to and can make you very sick.

Wash your hands with soap

and water, thoroughly and

often. This is especially important before handling food, eating,

or smoking. If possible, use an

antibacterial soap on your hands.

Avoid biting your nails.

Confirm that the water is

clean and safe. Don’t drink it or

wash dishes until you’re sure. 

(See Step 5). 

• Keep the family together

• Listen to them

• Explain what happened

• Reassure them

• Be understanding

• Take care of yourself

Helping Children
8

1

STEP

Take Care of Yourself First 

Disinfect dishes and all items

that floodwaters touched.

Instructions for cleaning and 

disinfecting appliances and household items are covered in Step 6. 

Don’t hurt yourself. Items are

much heavier when wet. Don’t

try to move large objects by 

yourself. Unfortunately, injuries,

especially back injuries, are a 

common side effect of cleaning 

up after a flood.

Watch out for fatigue. When

your body is tired, you are more

prone to accidents. Set a realistic

schedule for the work you will do

each day.

Be Safe Around Poisons.

Many of the products you will use

to clean, disinfect, and repair your

home are poisons. Read and 

follow label instructions. And

keep all chemical products out of

the reach of children. Have the

number for your local Poison

Control Center posted by your

telephone and call right away if

anyone is poisoned.

Report health hazards. Tell

the Health Department about 

animal carcasses, rats, dangerous

chemicals, and similar hazards on

your property. 

Be patient. Above all, try to be

patient with your family, your

neighbors, the local, state, and

federal authorities, and volunteer

agency personnel. Remember 

that many others are in the same

situation you are in, and it may

take time for everyone to get 

service. You may have to wait

your turn.

• Wash up frequently

• Make sure the water is safe

• Disinfect everything

• Don’t overdo it

• Report health hazards

Staying Healthy
9

2

STEP

Give Your Home First Aid

2

STEP

Give Your Home First Aid

This section is designed for

those who have experience in 

construction and electrical repair.

If you are uncertain about these

steps, contact a professional such

as a licensed home repair contractor or an electrician.

Make Sure It Is Safe to 

Go Back

Some floods have more than one

crest or peak. Even though the

water looks like it’s going down, it

may rise again and trap you.

Stay tuned to your radio or TV to

find out if and when you can go

back home. If you are not sure

whether you can return, contact

your local emergency manager.

Read the safety precautions at

the top of this document. Each

year about 150 people die because

of floods. Many of those fatalities

are due to electrocution or other

accidents that occur after the

floodwaters have gone down.

Have someone with you ask you

check your home and do repairs.

Dress for the task—wear sturdy

shoes and gloves.

Things You will Need When It Is

Safe to Return Home

❑ Flashlight

❑ First aid kit

❑ Battery-operated radio

❑ Waterproof boots or waders

❑ Safety clothing, such as a hard 

hat and gloves

❑ Boots or shoes with hard soles

❑ Dust mask

It is dangerous to go back into

your home because the flood may

have caused structural, electrical,

and other hazards. After you have

made things safe, take steps to protect your home and contents from

further damage.

Most of the information in this

section assumes that the person

doing the work has experience in

construction and electrical repair.

If you do not have experience in 

construction and electrical repair, 

do not try to do this work yourself.

Hire a qualified contractor or an

electrician. It is still a good idea to

read the information in this book

so you will have a better understanding of the jobs ahead, no

matter who does them.

Even if you have some experience with construction and electrical work, do not attempt any job if

you feel uncertain about the right

thing to do or you wonder if the job

is beyond your skill or physical

strength. Read the instructions in

this book all the way through

before you start. Gather your

tools and supplies, and make sure

you have enough help.

There is plenty of work to go

around after a flood. Do only

those jobs you can do well and

without injuring yourself. If you

cannot afford to get professional

help, check with your Red Cross

chapter, your local emergency

management agency, or your

building department to see if there

are any volunteer programs available to you. 

✔

Portable generators can be a big

help if you are without power. 

But remember:

• Connect appliances one at a time

to the generator. Never hook a

generator directly to your household wiring yourself. Only a

qualified electrician can do this.

• Use generators outdoors only.

They give off carbon monoxide

fumes.

• Avoid using extension cords with

generators. If you must use

them, check them often to make

sure they have not become hot.

A Note About Portable

Generators
10

2

STEP

Give Your Home First Aid

❑ Camera or video camera to 

record damage

❑ Tools: crowbar, hammer, saw, 

pliers, crescent wrench, screw

drivers, etc.

❑ Drinking water

❑ Trash bags

❑ A wooden stick for turning 

things over, scaring away snakes

and small animals, and moving 

electrical wires

❑ Cleaning supplies

Note: do not use candles before,

during, or after a flood. Candles

can easily tip over or invite child

fire-play. 

Check Your Home Before

You Go In

If there is standing water next to

the outside walls of your home,

don’t go in. You won’t be able to

tell if the building is safe or structurally sound. Before you go in,

walk carefully around the outside

of your home and check for loose

power lines and gas leaks. You

will know there is leaking gas by

the putrid, distinct odor that is

added to gas to let people know

gas is leaking. If you find downed

lines or leaks, call your utility

company.

Check the foundation for

cracks or other damage. Examine

porch roofs and overhangs to be

sure they still have all their supports. Look for gaps between the

steps and the home. If you see

obvious damage, have a building

inspector check the home before

you go in. Some communities

require official inspections for all

buildings after a flood.

If any supports or portions of

the foundation wall are missing or

the ground has washed away, the

floor is not safe. If you have any

doubts about safety, contact a contractor before going in. Proceed

very carefully.

Turn off the electricity

Electricity and water don’t mix.

Turn the power off at your home!

Even if the power company has

turned off electricity to the area,

you must still make certain your

home’s power supply is disconnected. You don’t want the power

company to turn it on without

warning while you’re working 

on it.

The electricity must be turned

off at the main breaker box or fuse

box. Your utility company may

have removed your electric meter.

This does not always turn off the

power.

If you have to step in water to 

get to your electric box, call an 

electrician. Simply removing the

electric meter does not always turn

off the power. If you can get to

your electric box without going

through or standing in water, you

can turn off the power yourself.

(See box). 

Remember that if the electrical

or gas controls are inside the

home, do not turn them off until

you can safely enter your home.

Turn off the gas

Gas appliances and pipes may

have moved or broken during the

flood, creating a gas leak. If you

suspect a leak or smell gas, leave

your home immediately and call

the gas company from a neighbor’s

home. Leave the door open and,

if the gas meter is outside, turn off

the gas.

Fuse Boxes

1. Stand on a dry spot.

2. If your box has a handle on the 

side, use a dry wooden stick or 

pole to pull the handle to OFF.

3. Use the stick to open the door.

4. Carefully pull out the main 

fuses. Use a dry wooden stick.

5. Unscrew and remove each 

circuit fuse

How to Turn Off the Power

main fuse

circuit fuse

Breaker Boxes

1. Stand on a dry spot.

2. Use a dry wooden stick or pole 

to open the door.

3. Use the stick to push the main 

breaker switch to OFF.

4. Use the stick to turn each circuit

breaker to OFF

main breaker

circuit breaker
11

2

STEP

Give Your Home First Aid

If your have gas appliances that

were flooded, you will need to

clean the mud out of the pilot and

the burners. But first, you must

turn off the gas.

There is a valve next to the gas

meter. If the valve handle is parallel to the pipe, the gas is on. You

may need a pair of pliers or a

wrench to turn the valve. Turn it

90 degrees (a quarter turn) so the

handle is perpendicular to the pipe

to shut the gas off. 

for help and keep clear of the area

until the gas has stopped flowing.

If you have a fuel oil or propane

tank, it may have floated and 

broken the connecting pipes.

Even an underground tank can

float. Turn off the fuel valve at the

tank and follow the instructions in

Step 5 before you turn the fuel

back on.

Go Inside carefully

If the door sticks and has to be

forced open, it is probably

swollen. If it only sticks at the

bottom, it can be forced open. 

If it sticks at the top, your ceiling

may be ready to fall. You can

force the door open but wait 

outside the doorway for a minute

where you will be protected if

something falls.

If the door won’t open easily, it

may be easier for you to enter

your home through a window.

Look carefully at the ceiling before

you go in to be sure it is not ready

to fall. 

Do not smoke or use candles, 

gas lanterns, or other open flames

in your home. Air out your home

completely—there may be explosive gas.

Check the ceiling for signs of

sagging. If there was a lot of

wind and rain or if the flood was

very deep, your ceiling may be

holding water. Wet plaster or

wallboard is very heavy and 

dangerous if it falls. If the ceiling

is sagging, do the following before

you go in:

1. Make a poker by attaching a 

nail or other pointed object to 

the end of a long stick. (You 

might hammer a finish nail into

the end of a broomstick.)

Some gas meter valves will have

a hole in the handle. this hole

lines up with a hole in the valve

body when the gas is shut off.

(The gas company uses the hole is

used by the gas company to lock

or seal the valve closed when the

building is vacant.) When the

holes are lined up, you know that

the gas supply has been shut off.

To be sure the gas is off, write

down the numbers on all the dials

in the meter. Check the dials at

least five minutes later. If the

numbers have changed, the valve

is not closed. Gas is still flowing.

Telephone your utility company

OFF

• Wait for the water to go down

• Report downed power lines

• Report gas leaks

• Check for structural damage

• Turn off electricity

• Turn off gas or fuel

Safety Checklist
12

2

STEP

Give Your Home First Aid

2. Stand away from, not under, 

the sag. (Under a doorway is 

safest.) Poke a hole in the 

ceiling at the edge of the sag so 

any trapped water can begin to 

drain. Do not start at the 

center of the sag because the 

ceiling may collapse suddenly.

Rescue the Most 

Valuable Items

Find and protect the “irreplaceable” valuables such as money,

jewelry, insurance papers, photographs, and family heirlooms.

Wash the mud off before the items

can dry. Put articles in a safe place

such as a dry second story or a

plastic bag, or take them to a

friend’s home.

Photographs, books, and other

articles that are easily damaged

when wet can be frozen and

cleaned later when you have more

time. Wash the mud off. Store the

articles in plastic bags and take

them to a friend who has electricity. Put them in a frost-free freezer

to protect them from mildew and

further damage until you have

time to thaw and clean them. 

A photographer or camera shop

can professionally clean wet 

photographs.

Resist the urge to stop and clean

everything you pick up. You need

to get to work on protecting your

home, assessing all the damages,

and planning your recovery so you

can save and restore as much as

possible. You can clean up your

belongings after you have done the

more important things listed here.

Protect Your Home From

Further Damage

You need to make sure that there

will be no more damage from

rain, wind, or animals. Your flood

insurance policy may cover some

of the cost of protecting your

home from further damage or

moving the contents to a safe

place. (Read your policy and ask

your agent what expenses are covered by your policy.)

3. After the water drains, poke 

another hole, lower down the 

sag. Keep poking holes as you 

move to the lowest point. 

4. Tear down the sagging ceiling 

using extreme caution—it’s very

heavy. You’ll have to replace it 

anyway.

5. Repeat this procedure for any 

room that has sagging ceilings.

Step carefully. Water and mud

make a floor very slippery. Also

watch for snakes, other animals,

loose flooring, holes, and nails. 

Check for cabinets and other

tall pieces of furniture that might

be ready to fall over. Remove 

mirrors and heavy pictures from

walls. They will not stay up if the

wallboard is wet.
13

2

STEP

Give Your Home First Aid

Get fresh air moving through

your home. Open windows and

doors if weather permits. This

will reduce the moisture and get

rid of any gas in the home. Do

not try to force open a swollen

window. Instead of breaking glass,

remove the molding and take the

window sash out of its frame.

Patch holes. Cover holes in

the roof, walls, or windows with

boards, tarps, or plastic sheeting.

Plastic sheets or trash bags should

be nailed down with wood strips

or taped with duct tape to keep

them from ripping loose. It may

not look pretty, but you need to

do this so rain won’t cause any

more water damage.

Repair sagging floors or roof

sections. Use 4 x 4’s or other

heavy lumber to brace weak areas.

If you’re uncertain how to shore

up floor or ceiling joists, call a

contractor.

Remove debris. Tree limbs or

other trash that may have landed

on or floated into the home

should be cleared away.

Check for broken or leaking

water pipes. If you find any, cut

off the water supply by turning off

the valve at your water meter. If

you can’t find it, call the water

company for help. Also check

floor drains—they may be clogged

with debris.

If the water pipes are not leaking, you can use your tap water

for hosing and cleaning. But do

not drink or cook with tap water

until it has been declared safe. (If

you are not on a municipal water

system, the local health department will usually inspect your well

and test your water. See Step 5.)

Drain Your Basement

Carefully

If your basement is flooded, don’t

be in too big a hurry to pump it

out. Here’s why. 

Water in the ground outside

your home is pushing hard against

the outside of your basement

walls. But the water inside your

basement is pushing right back.
14

2

STEP

Give Your Home First Aid

If you drain your basement too

quickly, the pressure outside the

walls will be greater than the pressure inside the walls—and that

may make the walls and floor

crack and collapse, causing serious

damage. 

To avoid this situation, follow

these steps when you pump the

water out of your basement:

1. Never go into a basement with

standing water in it unless you

are sure the electricity is off. 

2. After floodwaters are no longer 

on top of the ground, you can 

start pumping the water out of 

the basement. Do not use 

gasoline-powered pumps or 

generators indoors because 

gasoline engines create deadly 

carbon monoxide exhaust

fumes.

3. Pump the water level down two

to three feet. Mark the level 

and wait overnight.

4. Check the water level the next 

day. If the water went back up,

it’s still too early to try to drain 

the basement. Wait overnight. 

Then pump the water down 

two to three feet again. Check 

the level the next day. 

5. When the water stops going

back up, pump down another

two to three feet and wait

overnight. Repeat steps 4 and 5

until all water is pumped out of

the basement.

Hose the House and Its

Contents

The mud left behind by floodwaters contains most of the health

hazards you will face. It is very

important to get rid of the mud 

as soon as possible. This is a lot

easier if it is done before the mud

dries out. Follow these steps:

1. Shovel out as much mud as

possible.

2. Make sure the electricity is

turned off. Unplug all appliances and lamps, remove all

light bulbs, and remove the

cover plates to wall switches

and outlets that got wet. Check

with your local building department to see if your code allows

you to disconnect the wiring

from the switches and outlets. 

If the code does not allow

you to disconnect them, leave

the wires connected and pull

them out of their boxes as

shown in the drawing. They

can be replaced during Step 5

by an electrician.

• Assume that anything touched by

floodwaters is contaminated.

• Wash hands frequently.

• Disinfect everything floodwaters

have touched

Health Precautions
15

2

STEP

Take Care of Yourself First 

If the code permits, it is

probably best to throw away

switches and outlets that were

flooded and replace them with

new ones. (See Step 5).

3. Check your water system for

leaks from pipes that may have

moved. (See Step 5). Even if

your water supply is not safe to

drink, it can be used for cleaning the home. If you have

water, hose the home down,

inside and out. If you have an

attachment that sprays soap,

wash and then rinse the walls

and floors. Hose the furniture,

too, and other major items that

got muddy.

4. Heating and air conditioning

ducts that got flooded will have

mud left in them. If you don’t

clean them out, your system

will be blowing foul, dusty air

that contains the same health

hazards you are trying to get rid

of. To clean the ducts, remove

the vents or registers. If possible, remove some sections of

the ducts in the basement or

crawl space to give you access to

all areas. Then thoroughly hose

out all the ducts.

5. While you hose the walls, thoroughly hose out the electrical

outlet, switch boxes, and light

sockets that you opened up.

Follow the steps (found later in

this document) before turning

the electricity back on.

6. After you hose out the duck

work to remove the mud, wash

it with a disinfectant or sanitizer, such as the quaternary, phenolic, or pine oil based ones.

(Check labels for the contents

and instructions). If your ducts

are in a slab or are otherwise

inaccessible, have them cleaned

by a professional.

7. Don’t let the water sit on the

floor for long, especially if your

floor has particle board or other

wood product that tends to fall

apart when wet. Use a mop,

“wet vac,” or squeegee.
16

3

STEP

Get Organized

Before you try to clean up and

repair everything, you need to

assess your damage and develop a

recovery plan. An organized

approach will make the best use 

of your time and money. If your

structure is substantially damaged,

you need to ask yourself if you

should rebuild at all—it may be

smarter, safer, and cheaper to 

relocate. If you do rebuild, your

recovery plan should include the

floodproofing measures that can be

incorporated with repairs and can

save you thousands of dollars in the

future (see Step 8).

Call Your Insurance Agent

You need to tell your agent about

the damage to your home and

contents so that your agent can

file a claim. The sooner you can

talk to your agent, the sooner your

claim will be filed and an adjuster

will be assigned to review your

damage. How much of your loss

is covered will depend on your

policy. But even if you don’t have

full coverage, your agent may be

able to give you advice about

where to get help with cleanup

and repairs.

Your property insurance will fall

into one of three categories:

1. Homeowner’s insurance

usually covers losses caused by

wind, storm, or broken water

pipes, but not surface flooding.

Some homeowner’s policies may

cover basement flooding caused

by sewer backup or sump pump

failure.

2. Flood insurance covers most

losses caused by surface floodwater.

3. Wind and hail insurance

covers losses in coastal areas

from the winds of a hurricane.

In coastal areas, homeowner’s

insurance often does not cover

damage from wind.

Read your insurance policies so

that you will know what is covered

and what is not. If your insurance

covers the damages, your agent

will tell you when you can expect

an adjuster to contact you. The

adjuster will determine the costs

to repair the damage to your

home and your belongings. The

adjuster will then submit those

costs to the insurance company for

final approval. Your agent will

also tell you what to throw away,

and what to set aside for the

adjuster to review. Find out if

your insurance covers living

expenses while your home is being

repaired. (Flood insurance does

not cover that cost.)

Start listing the damage

List the damage and take pictures

or videotapes as you clean up so

you will have a complete and

thorough record. Good records

are needed for insurance claims,

applications for disaster assistance,

and income tax deductions.

Some items that are health 

hazards, such as rotting food and

debris, should be thrown away.

3

STEP

Get Organized

• Damage to the building

• Damage to the contents (see sample inventory form, next page)

• Receipts for cleanup and restoration expenses, such as material,

labor, and equipment rental, and

receipts for flood-related expenses, such as motel bills. (Keep

these in one place, like in and

envelope in your car.)

Records to Keep
173

STEP

Get Organized

Tell your agent or adjuster that

you need to get rid of this trash

before you throw it out. They

should tell you what to do so that

all of your losses can be recorded

properly by the adjuster. (See

other pages in this document on

sorting items to discard.) You

may be told to keep a sample of

items such as a piece of carpet or

upholstery to show the value of

what you have thrown away. 

or walls will have to be totally

rebuilt. Repair safety hazards 

such as broken pilings or an

undermined foundation before

you proceed any further. Get 

professional help for any task you

cannot confidently do yourself.

You will need a building permit

to repair structural damage. Talk

to your building department

before you start reconstruction or

sign any repair contracts. If the

damage to your home’s structure

exceeds 50% of the market value

of your home, most local building

codes will require you to elevate it

above flood levels. Some may not

allow you to rebuild at all. (For

more information on building

permits, See Step 8.) 

Ask the Big Question

Odds are that the area where you

live will flood again. Before you

spend a great deal of money and

effort repairing and rebuilding, ask

yourself this question: 

Do I really want to be 

flooded again?

If you think that you would be

better off in a different location,

talk to your local government or

disaster assistance officials about

help rebuilding where floods can

no longer damage your home.

There are programs that will

buy some properties with houses

that have been destroyed or 

substantially damaged. Other

programs give financial help to

move or elevate houses so they are

above flood levels. See Step 7 

for more information on floodproofing assistance programs.

Ask someone to sign your

record as a witness. If you have

flood insurance, you will need to

file a Proof of Loss form within 

60 days of the flood. (See Step 7).

Completing your own inventory

form will make this form easier to

complete and will also help the

adjuster determine the costs to

repair the damage to your home

and belongings.

Check for Structural 

Damage

You need to find out whether

there is any structural damage to

your home. (You will probably

need professional help in making

this decision.)

Is there evidence of broken or

cracked basement or foundation

walls? Are there broken pilings,

shifted stairs, or slanted floors or

walls? Any of these things could

mean that the foundation, floors,
18

3

STEP

Get Organized

If you decide to stay, you can

still make your home less susceptible to damage from the next

flood. Before you start repairing

and replacing things just like they

were before, look at the floodproofing measures in Step 8.

Floodproofing as you repair and

rebuild can save a great deal of

money over time. Protecting your

home from future floods will also

add value to your property.

Plan Your Recovery

Get organized with a recovery

plan. A recovery plan is simply a

list of jobs that need to be done.

Planning can help you save time

and money. Doing things in the

right order will also make everyone feel better—you’ll know you

are making progress without 

wasting effort. 

To develop a recovery plan, 

follow these steps:

❑ Make sure it is safe to work in

your home. You’ll want to go

back to your home as quickly as

possible. But you must make

sure the building is safe and

sound. (See Step 2). 

❑ Review the rest of the 

recovery steps in this book.

Start making lists. Begin with

the projects such as “replace 

furnace” and “dry out walls.”

Write down items you will need

such as cleaning supplies or film

and paper for record keeping. If

necessary, make plans for a place

to stay while you clean up.

❑ Decide what you can and

can’t do. You can save money

by doing much of the work

described in this book as you

can. But be realistic. Jobs such

as propping up broken foundations and replacing electrical

service boxes are best left to the

professionals. Many other jobs

may be too involved or too

heavy for you.

❑ Decide if you need financial

assistance. If you need to

replace items or hire a professional and you don’t have insurance, there may be some voluntary organizations that can help

you. (See Step 7.) Check the

local newspaper, radio and TV

stations for notices about Red

Cross, church, and government

disaster programs.

❑ Check with your mortgage

holder. If your mortgage holder is listed on your insurance

policy, you cannot cash your

insurance claim check without

their approval. Before you

decide on repairing and floodproofing, make sure that your

loan will not be affected. The

mortgage holder may be able to

provide financial help, such as

deferring interest payments for

a month or two.

❑ Think before you use credit

cards. Credit cards may be the

fastest way to handle repair and

rebuilding expenses, but they

are also very costly. Their interest rates can be up to two percent per month (24 percent per

year). A second mortgage or

low interest government loan is

a much less expensive way to

borrow money for home repairs.

❑ Keep talking openly with your

family. Some of the biggest

problems that come with a 

disaster are the mental strain of

the loss and worries about the

future. Work together and let

everyone know what you will be

doing in the days ahead.

Jobs an owner can usually handle

by following the steps in this book

• Sorting contents to be repaired or

discarded

• Drying the ceiling, walls, and

floors

• Drying and cleaning electrical 

circuits and boxes (if code allows)

• Removing minor debris such as

branches and trash

• Checking the gas or oil system

• Fixing leaky pipes

• Checking sewage disposal system

• Building and contents cleaning

• Checking sources of financial

assistance

• Minor floodproofing projects

such as building an earthen wall

or raising appliances

Jobs that usually require 

services of a professional

• Structural repairs

• Restoring electrical service

• Wallboard taping and finishing

• Checking the water system to

ensure that it is safe to drink.

(That service is often free from

the local health department.)

• Major debris removal such as tree

cutting

• Electrical and gas appliance and

motor cleaning and repair

• Cleaning leather, furs, upholstered furniture, and expensive

carpeting

• Major floodproofing projects

such as moving or elevating a

home

Cleanup and Repair—

Who does what?

✔
19

4

STEP

Dry Out Your Home

F loodwaters affect a home three

ways:

1. The water damages materials.

Wallboard will disintegrate if it

remains wet too long; wood can

swell, warp, or rot; electrical parts

can short out, malfunction, and

cause fires or shock.

2. Mud, silt, and unknown contaminants in the water not only

get everything dirty; they also 

create a health hazard.

3. Dampness promotes the growth of

mildew, a mold or fungus that

can grow on everything.

The following steps work on all

three of these problems. It is very

important that they be followed in

order.

Lower the Humidity

Everything will dry more quickly

and clean more easily if you can

reduce the humidity in the home.

There are five ways to lower the

humidity and stop the rot and

mildew. But you’ll have to delay

using some methods if you have

no electricity. (Read Step 5 

before you attempt to restore the

utilities.)

❑ Open up the house. If the

humidity outside is lower than

indoors, and if the weather permits, open all the doors and

windows to exchange the moist

indoor air for drier outdoor air.

Your body will tell if the

humidity is lower outdoors. If

the sun is out, it should be drier

outside. If you have a 

thermometer with a humidity

gauge, you can monitor the

indoor and outdoor humidity.

On the other hand, when 

temperatures drop at night, an

open home is warmer and will

draw moisture indoors. At

night and other times when the

humidity is higher outdoors,

close up the house.

❑ Open closet and cabinet

doors. Remove drawers to

allow air circulation. Drawers

may stick because of swelling.

Don’t try to force them. Speed

drying by opening up the back

of the cabinet to let the air 

circulate. You will probably be

able to remove the drawers as

the cabinet dries out.

❑ Use fans. Fans help move the

air and dry out your home. Do

not use central air conditioning

or the furnace blower if the

ducts were under water. They

will blow out dirty air, that

might contain contaminants

from the sediment left in the

duct work. Clean or hose out

the ducts first. (See Step 2.) 

❑ Run dehumidifiers.

Dehumidifiers and window air

conditioners will reduce the

moisture, especially in closed up

areas.

❑ Use desiccants. Desiccants

(materials that absorb moisture)

are very useful in drying closets

or other enclosed areas where

air cannot move through.

4

STEP

Dry Out Your Home

✔
20

4

STEP

Dry Out Your Home

Desiccants like those listed

below are usually available at

hardware, grocery, or drug

stores.

• Chemical dehumidifier packs

used for drying boats and 

damp closets.

• Cat litter made of clay.

• Calcium chloride pellets used

for melting ice in the winter.

Hang pellets in a pillow case,

nylon stocking, or other 

porous bag. Put a bucket 

underneath to catch dripping

water. Close the closet or 

area being dried. Be careful.

Calcium chloride can burn 

your skin. It will also make 

the air salty, so do not use 

this product near computers 

or other delicate equipment. 

❑ Call a contractor. There are

contractors who specialize in

drying out flooded buildings.

They have large fans and dehumidifiers that can dry out a

house in a few days. Look in

the yellow pages under Fire and

Water Damage Restoration or

under Dehumidifying. Be 

careful about contractors who

inflate prices after a disaster and

about out-of-town contractors

who inflate prices after a 

disaster and about out-of-town

contractors who request payment in advance.

Be patient. Drying your home

could take several weeks. Until

your home is reasonably dry, damage caused by mildew and decay

will continue. The musty odor

will remain forever if the home is

not thoroughly dried out well.

Sort Contents and Discard

Debris

You have three types of contents

that should go to three different

places: 

• items you want to save

• items to be discarded

• garbage

Things you want to save

Move these to a safe, dry place,

such as the second story or outside. The longer they sit in water,

the more damaged they become.

In some cases, you may only be

able to move them to one room

while you clean the other rooms.

Don’t leave wood furniture in the

sun or it will warp when it dries.

To save an area rug, lay a sheet or

some other material on top so the

colors will not bleed. Clean it

promptly.

Things you don’t want to save

Put things you don’t want to save

outside to dry until the adjuster

comes to confirm your losses.

Take pictures or videotapes and

list each item for the record. If

you are not sure whether to throw

something out, decide whether it

is worth salvaging by checking the

information in Step 6. 

Garbage

Get rid of food and anything else

that could spoil or go bad immediately. Don’t let garbage build

up. Garbage piles will cause yet

another health hazard by attracting animals and insects. If your

insurance adjuster has not come,

tell your agent or adjuster that you

need to get rid of potential health

hazards. That person will tell you

Should I Throw them Out?

Usually

Mattresses, pillows, foam rubber,

large carpets, carpet padding,

upholstered couches and chairs,

books, paper products

Always

Food, cosmetics, medical supplies,

stuffed animals, baby toys

Questions about the Safety 

of Your Food?

Call the USDA Food Safety

Hotline: 1-800-535-4555

Professional home economists will

answer your questions from 10 a.m.

to 4 p.m. eastern time, Monday

through Friday.

Items Soaked by Floodwater

Call the USDA Food Safety Hotline:

1-800-535-4555

Professional home economists will

answer your questions from 10 a.m.

to 4 p.m. eastern time, Monday

through Friday.

Questions About the Safety 

of Your Food?
21

4

STEP

Dry Out Your Home

how to make sure that your losses

are covered. Then throw the stuff

out, preferably in sealed plastic

garbage bags. 

Don’t take chances with frozen

food if electricity went off unless

food is still thoroughly frozen and

contains ice crystals. As a rule,

food will remain frozen for up to

three days in a closed freezer without power. Don’t refreeze thawed

food. However, you can cook and

then freeze raw meat that was partially thawed and then refreeze it.

Dispose of discarded items 

properly. Do not burn or bury

them. There will usually be more

frequent garbage pickups after a

flood. Your local TV and radio

stations will have announcements

concerning trash pickup schedules

and drop-off sites.

How Floodwaters Affect

Your Home

Once contents and debris have

been cleared, the next step is to get

the water out of the ceilings and

walls. How you drain and dry

your ceilings and walls depends on

what they are made of.

Wallboard. 

Most ceilings and walls are covered with wallboard, especially in

newer homes. Wallboard will act

like a sponge, drawing water up

above the flood level. It becomes

very fragile if it stays wet for long

and will fall apart when bumped.

When the wallboard finally dries,

there will still be mud and contaminants dried inside. 

Wallboard that has been soaked

by floodwater presents a permanent health hazard. Therefore,

this book recommends that you

throw out flooded wallboard. On

the other hand, if the wallboard

was soaked by clean rainwater, it

can be dried in place with plenty

of fresh air moving through the

area.

Plaster. 

Plaster will survive a flood better

than wallboard. It should not

have to be replaced but it will take

a very long time to dry. 

Sometimes the plaster will 

separate from the wood laths as it

dries. Then the wall will have to

be removed and replaced.

Insulation. 

There are 3 main types of insulation and each reacts differently to

floodwaters. Styrofoam survives

best; it may only need to be hosed

off.

Fiberglass batts should be 

discarded if they are muddy. If

soaked by clean rainwater, remove

them so the rest of the wall can

dry. They can be put back in the

wall, but it will take a very long

time to dry.

Cellulose (loose or blown-in

treated paper) insulation will hold

water for a long time. It can also

lose its antifungal and fire retardant abilities. Therefore, flooded

cellulose insulation should be

replaced.

Wood. 

If allowed to dry naturally, wood

will generally regain its original

shape. Different layers of laminated wood, such as plywood, may

dry at different rates, causing the

layers to separate.

Wood always has some water in it,

but a flood can bring its moisture

content up to 30 percent. This

causes swelling. However, if

allowed to dry naturally, wood 

will usually go back to its original

shape. Unlike wallboard, wet 

studs and sills that are touched by

floodwaters do not need to be

thrown out. Hollow wood doors

usually have cardboard spacers in

the middle that lose their shape

when wet. Generally, these doors

come apart after they are flooded

sand need to be replaced. 

Water and Weed
22

4

STEP

Dry Out Your Home 

Some contaminants will stay in

the wood pores after it dries, but

not as much as stays in flooded

wallboard. Wood studs and sills

will be covered by new wallboard

and painted, so they are well

removed from human contact.

Therefore, wet wood studs and

sills do not need to be replaced if

they are allowed to dry properly.

Drain the Ceilings and

Walls

Ceilings

Check for sagging ceilings. Drain

them carefully as shown in Step 2.

If the floodwaters went above your

ceiling, you should replace it if it

is made of wallboard. A plaster

ceiling will dry eventually, but if it

has too many cracks or sags, you

will have to tear it down and

replace it. Remove any wet insulation in the ceiling to allow the

joists to dry.

Walls

Remove water trapped within

your walls. To check for water,

take off the baseboard. Stick an

awl or knife into the wall about 2

inches above the floor (just above

the 2 X 4 wood sill plate). If

water drips out, cut or drill a hole

large enough to allow water to

drain freely. (Use a hand or cordless drill or saw to avoid shock.) If

you are going to replace the wallboard anyway, you don’t have to

be neat: use a hammer to knock

out a hole. 

If your walls are plaster, a knife

won’t penetrate them. Drill a hole

above the sill plate to drain the

water. (Use a hand or cordless

drill to avoid shock.) Do not use

a hammer or chisel on plaster

because the plaster could shatter.

In a newer home, you may have

metal sill plates. A metal sill acts

as a trough at the bottom of the

wall cavity. Drill a hole at floor

level to drain the water, using a

hand or cordless drill. 

wood sill plate

metal sill plate

Repeat the process to drain all

the wall cavities. Depending on

the spacing between studs in your

walls, make a hole every 16” or

every 24”. Watch out for the

wiring which is usually at the
23

4

STEP

Dry Out Your Home

same height as your electrical outlets. If there is wet insulation, you

will have to remove the wallboard

in order to take out all the insulation.

Dry the ceilings and walls

Flood soaked wallboard is usually

removed and thrown away.

Plaster and paneling can often be

saved, but you still need to get air

circulating in the wall cavities to

dry the studs and sills. Different

approaches are used for different

materials.

Wallboard

If floodwaters soaked the wallboard at least four feet above the

floor, you should take down all

the wallboard and replace it. If

the water level was less than four

feet deep, remove the lower four

feet of wallboard. You can fill the

gap with 4’ x 8’ sheets installed

sideways. 

without removing the wallboard

using the technique explained

below for plaster walls. But you

will need to remove wet insulation

if it is not Styrofoam.

Plaster walls

If the plaster or wallboard is clean

and in good shape, you can drill

or cut ventilating holes in each

wall cavity. Place holes low

enough so they will be covered by

the baseboard after the wall dries

out. Open up the wall on both

sides of interior walls. For exterior

walls, drill or cut holes on the

inside of the house. However, if

there is wet insulation, you will

have to remove the plaster or wallboard in order to take out all the

insulation.

Concrete block

The cavities in a concrete block

wall will drain on their own. 

The water will not damage the

concrete like it will wood or 

wallboard.

Wallcovering

Vinyl wallcovering seals the wall

and prevents drying. Wallpaper

paste is a favorite home for mold

and mildew. For these reasons,

you should remove all wallcovering that got wet and throw it out.

(If vinyl wallcovering is loose on

the bottom, you may be bale to

save it by pulling it off the wall up

to the flood level. Clean and reapply it after everything dries.)

If you have Styrofoam insulation—or no insulation—and the

wallboard was soaked with clean

rainwater, you can dry the walls
24

4

STEP

Dry Out Your Home

Paneling

Carefully pry the bottom of each

panel away from the wall. Use

something to hold the bottom

away from the sill so the cavities

can drain and dry out. You can

nail them back into shape after

they and the studs dry out.

However, if there is wet insulation,

you will have to remove the paneling in order to take out all the

insulation.

Dry the floor

Air needs to circulate around

flooded floors so they can dry out.

This means removing the floor

covering. Because floodwaters

contain mud and dirt, most

soaked floor coverings should be

thrown away. Keep a piece of all

discarded floor covering so the

adjuster can tell its value.

Air needs to circulate below the

floor to dry it out. If the crawl

space of your home is flooded,

pump it out. Remove any plastic

sheets, vapor barriers or insulation

from underneath the floor. (Be

sure to replace them when the

floor and foundation are completely dry.) 

If a home with a basement was

flooded over the first floor, remove

finished basement ceilings, or cut

or drill holes between all the joists

to allow circulation. Don’t cut or

drill near electric lines or pipes.

You have now reached the stage

where no more damage should

occur to your home. Exterior

holes have been patched, the utilities have been turned off, and the

drying process has started. It may

take days or weeks, depending on

the humidity, for all the wood to

dry out. You can do Steps 5, 6,

and 7 while the home is drying.

However, do not start Step 8,

Rebuild and Floodproof, until the

home is completely dry.

• Small throw rugs can be saved

and cleaned in a washing

machine.

• Indoor-outdoor carpeting can he

hosed off and hung up to dry.

• Large rugs and those with foam

backing should be discarded.

(Usually only valuable carpets are

worth the cost of professional

cleaning.)

• After getting wet, wall-to-wall

carpeting usually will not return

to its former size and has to be

thrown away. Therefore, make

the job easier by cutting it in

strips and discarding it in pieces

that are small enough to be carried. Watch out for the tackdown strips along the wall; they

often have nails sticking up to

hold the carpet down.

• A wall-to-wall carpet that was

soaked by clean rainwater can be

left in place and dried. 

• Remove tile, vinyl, and linoleum

flooring should be removed if it is

warped, loose, or has a foam rubber pad (which should be thrown

away).

Cleaning floor coverings
25

5

STEP

Restore the Utilities

T he rest of your work will be

much easier if you have heat,

electricity, clean water, and sewage

disposal. However, it may take some

time for a repair professional to

come. Therefore, you should go to

Step 6 and do all the cleaning you

can do while you wait for one or

more of these utility systems to be

restored.

Gas and oil systems

If your furnace, water heater,

stove, or other gas or oil appliances were flooded to the level of

the burners, turn off the valve on

the pipe to the appliance. If they

were hot when flooded, parts may

have cracked. Flood insurance

and federal disaster assistance programs will help replace flooded gas

and oil appliances. If you want to

keep a gas or oil appliance, have it

cleaned professionally.

A cracked, plugged, or leaky

chimney can cause fires or carbon

monoxide poisoning. Be sure you

check metal and brick chimneys

for dirt, debris, and leaks before

lighting the furnace or a fire.

Gas System

If the gas has been turned off at

the main valve serving your home,

you need to have a professional

restore gas service to your home,

relight pilot lights, and do a final

check of the system.

If the gas valve serving only one

appliance is turned off, then you

can relight that appliance. First,

make sure the room is well-ventilated and that there are no open

flames (or bare electric wires) anywhere. Then turn on the gas

valve. Check for leaky pipes (see

below). Let the gas run for a

minute or two to clean any air and

impurities out of the pipes. Then

turn the gas off for a minute to

allow the gas in the air to go away

before you light the appliance.

Oil System

Make sure your main oil valve is

turned off. Check your oil pump.

If it got wet, have the pump professionally checked and cleaned.

If you want to clean it yourself, see

Step 6

Look carefully for any signs of

leaking oil; if you see any, call a

professional. Look for signs that

the pipes or oil tank moved during

the flood. Oil tanks, even buried

ones, will float when flooded.

After you have turned the electricity back on, open the main valve

and turn the pump on. Check for

leaky pipes. (See above.)

Propane, L-P, and Butane

Systems

These fuels are kept in pressurized

tanks, so there is no electric pump

to turn on. Check the tanks for

signs of movement or floating.

Then follow the instructions

above for gas systems.

5

STEP

Restore the Utilities

1. Check for leaky fuel pipes by 

smelling for gas. A chemical 

that has a disagreeable, distinctive odor is added to natural gas 

and propane to tell you if there 

is a leak. If you have any 

doubts, have a professional 

check for you. Do not use open

flames.

2. Make sure the valve that leads to

each appliance is closed.

3. If you find any pipes that moved

or any area that smells like gas, 

brush soapy water on each pipe 

connection. The pressure in the 

pipes will make bubbles appear 

where there is a leak.

4. If you find a leak, turn off the 

gas. Unscrew the pipe connection, clean the joint, and apply 

pipe joint compound or pipe 

tape (available at hardware 

stores) on the threads. Screw 

the pieces back together tightly.

5. Turn on the gas and check the 

connection again with soapy 

water. If you have a leak, or if 

you are not sure your system is 

safe, turn off the gas and call a 

professional immediately.

Leaky Pipes 
26

5

STEP

Restore the Utilities

Electrical System

Check with your building or electrical inspector to see how much

work you can do on your wiring.

Many local codes require that a

licensed electrician do the work,

or that a municipal inspector

check the system before you can

turn the power back on.

The electrical system should be

tackled in two parts: the main

breaker or fuse box and the circuits. If the main box got wet, it

should be checked and cleaned by

an electrician before you turn the

power back on. You should have

the electrician move your main

box above flood level for future

protection. 

Meanwhile, if you are comfortable working with electrical fixtures and wiring, you can clean

the flooded circuits. Otherwise

call an electrician.

To clean a flooded circuit, 

follow these steps in order:

1. Check the switch at the main

breaker or fuse box to make sure

that the power is still off. Take

out the fuses or switch off the

breakers to the circuits you will

be working on.

2. As noted at the end of Step 2,

everything should be unplugged

and all light bulbs should be

removed. The switches and

outlets should be out of the

wall. Check the switches and

outlets and their boxes for mud

and dirt which can cause a

short or overheating. Hose or

wash any mud out of the boxes.

3. If you see a lot of mud, dirt, or

salt water corrosion in the

switches or outlets, replace

them. If you want to keep the

switches and outlets that were

flooded, rinse them thoroughly

in a pail of water. Let them dry

for at least 24 hours.

4. Check the condition of the wire

that goes to each switch and

each outlet. Replace any fabriccovered wire. Plastic covered

wire does not need to be

removed unless it has been

flooded with salt water.

Aluminum wiring may be

severely corroded by salt water,

so all aluminum wiring that has

been flooded by salt water

should be replaced before proceeding.

5. After everything has dried out,

check to make sure the fuses are

still out or the breakers are still

switched off. Then re-install

the switches and outlets or

install new ones. 

If your main box was not flooded or if it has been cleaned and

checked by an electrician, you can

test each circuit once it is cleaned.

To test a cleaned circuit:

1. Make sure nothing is plugged

in and no wall switches are

turned on.

2. Install the fuse or turn the

breaker to “ON.” Install the

main fuse or turn on the main

breaker. Some fuse boxes have

a main switch—a handle on the

outside of the box that is easier

to use than taking out and

replacing the main fuses. 

3. If the fuse blows or the breaker

clicks back to “off,” you have a

short somewhere. Recheck

your cleaning and installation

work. If the fuse or breaker are

okay, wait 15 minutes and then

walk around the home. Look

• Use only the electrically operated

tools you need, one at a time, to

avoid overloading a few working

circuits. 

• If appliances or motors have 

gotten wet, have them taken

apart, cleaned, and dried. before

plugging them back in again.

• Make sure all appliances are 

properly grounded. This is most

important if there was damage 

to the wiring from the flood or

during the cleaning.

• Mud or dirt in a grounded outlet

or adapter may prevent the

grounding system from working,

and you could be electrocuted. 

If you are unsure of whether your

electrical system is properly

grounded, call an electrician.

• When in doubt, call an electrician. Electrocution is a major

killer in floods.

Electrical Safety

It is very important that your utility

systems and appliances be turned

back on the correct way. A leaky

gas pipe, an ungrounded electrical

appliance, or contaminated water is

a serious safety and health hazard.

If you are not comfortable working

on your utilities or appliances, call

a professional.

Important
27

5

STEP

Restore the Utilities

for sparks or the pungent smell

of an electrical short. If there

are any signs of smoking or

heating, if the fuse blows, or if a

breaker goes off, turn the power

off and call an electrician.

4. If there are no signs of problems, turn the power off again.

Plug a lamp or small appliance

in an outlet on the circuit you

just tested, or turn on a light

switch. Be sure that the appliance you are using to test each

outlet is working properly.

5. Turn the power back on and

check the fuse or breaker.

6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for each

outlet and wall switch to check

for shorts or problems. 

7. Bathroom and outdoor circuits

often have a ground fault circuit interrupter at the breaker

box or at a wall outlet. These

are very sensitive and may keep

tripping the circuit off, so you

may have to be extremely 

thorough in cleaning and 

drying these circuits. 

Water supply

Public water suppliers usually 

provide water soon after the flood.

If you are unsure of your water

supply, only use it to hose your

home or for sanitation purposes

(flushing the toilet).

Buy bottled water for drinking

if you can. Sometimes large water

storage tanks called “water buffalos” are brought to communities

that need clean water. They are

filled with clean drinking water

from places outside your area and

are towed to your location, often

by national guard or U.S. military

personnel.

A “boil order” may be issued in

your community. If such an order

has been issued, do the following:

1. Fill a large pot with water from

the tap.

2. Strain the water through

cheesecloth, a sheet, or other

clean, porous material to

remove as many solids as you

can.

3. Bring the water to a rumbling

boil and let it boil for at least 5

minutes.

4. Pour the water back and forth

between two clean pots. This

will help it cool and will also

add air to the water to make it

taste better.

5. Let the water cool. After it is

cool, add 16 drops of liquid

chlorine bleach per gallon of

water. Let the water stand a

half hour. If it gives off a slight

chlorine smell and looks clear,

it’s OK to use.

If you do not smell the chlorine

or if the water is still cloudy, 

add another 16 drops of liquid

chlorine bleach and let it stand

another half hour. If you smell

chlorine, it’s okay to use. If you

have treated it again and it still

does not smell like chlorine, don’t

use it for drinking or cooking.

Do not cook in pots and 

pans, or use eating utensils, baby

blankets, or any other items that

could go in the mouth until they

have been washed in water that

has been tested and approved by

the water supplier or health

department.
28

5

STEP

Restore the Utilities

Wells. Private wells should be

pumped until the water is clear.

You can decide whether water is

clear enough to hose the home

and do other cleaning work.

Check with the local health

department for instructions before

you drink or cook with your well

water. Their instructions will

account for minerals and chemicals that occur naturally in your

area. The health department

should be able to advise you about

the best way to have your water

tested if necessary.

If there are no specific instructions

from the local health department,

follow these steps to treat your

well and water:

1. Open your faucets to pump the

water out of your well. Let

them run for at least 15 minutes or until you lose pressure.

2. Pour one quart of liquid 

chlorine bleach in the well and

leave it for at least four hours.

Do not use any water during

this time. 

3. Open all the faucets and let

them run until you smell 

chlorine at each faucet.

4. Turn off the faucets and let the

water sit in the pipes for two to

four hours. Do not use any

water during this time.

5. Flush out the system by 

running the taps until you can

no longer taste or smell the

chlorine.

Water Heater. Check your water

heater. If floodwaters got into the

gas burner, electrical parts, or

insulation, it should be replaced.

If you want to save it, have it

cleaned and restarted by a professional. Be sure to flush clean

water through it before you wash

dishes or clothes with hot water.

Sewage disposal

Public sewers should work soon

after a flood, but mud and debris

might clog them. Flush the toilet

before you use it. If it is clogged,

check with your local sewer

department to see if the problem

is in the main line. You may need

to clean out the sewer line from

your house to the main line. 

Septic systems will not work

until the ground water level is

below the distribution lines. So be

careful about flushing the toilet

and pouring things down the

drain; they may not have anywhere to go. Until your toilet

works, you can line it with a 

plastic trash can liner and dispose

of the bag following local public

health recommendations.

If your house will be unheated for a

few days, and the temperature will

fall below freezing, you should winterize your water pipes so they will

not freeze and break. A plumber

can blow out the pipes to make sure

they are empty. Or you can take the

following steps to protect your water

and sewer system from damage due

to freezing temperatures: 

1. Shut off the main water valve. 

(It is usually found at the water 

meter.)

2. Turn on all the faucets in the 

house, both the hot and the cold

taps. Leave them on and let 

them run.

3. Turn off the hot water heater. 

Open the faucet at the bottom 

of the water heater to drain it. 

You may want to connect a hose

to the faucet so you can control 

where the water goes. Be careful; the water may be very hot.

4. Flush the toilets to empty their 

water tanks.

5. Wait for the lowest faucet on the

house to stop running. (This 

will usually be a faucet in the 

basement.) Then check all 

faucets and toilets. If they have 

stopped running or are empty, 

your water system should be 

drained. 

6. Pour some propyleneglycolbased antifreeze in all sink, tub, 

and floor drains and in the toilet 

bowls. (This type of antifreeze 

is available through recreational 

vehicle and mobile home dealers.

Do not use regular automotive 

antifreeze.) These drains have 

traps that keep water in them.

7. You can turn the main valve 

back on after the building is 

heated. Do this before you start

your repairs. That way, if there 

is a broken pipe, a water leak 

won’t cause much damage.

Cleanup and Repair—

Who does what?
T he walls, floors, closets, shelves,

contents—every flooded part of

your house—should be thoroughly

washed and disinfected. Some projects, such as washing clothes, may

have to wait until all the utilities

are restored. Others may be best

done by professionals. This section

offers suggestions on the best way to

clean flooded items.

Clean up supplies

The Red Cross will often distribute cleanup kits after a disaster.

These contain many useful items

such as a broom, mop, bucket,

and cleaning supplies.

In most cases, household cleaning products will doe the job if

you use them correctly. Check the

label on the products to see how

much to use. Some products

shouldn’t be used on certain materials; the label will tell you that.

Apply cleaner and give it time to

work before you mop or sponge it

up. Follow directions and all safety precautions on the container.

After cleaning a room or item,

go over it again with a disinfectant

to kill the germs and smell left by

the floodwaters. You may also

need to get rid of mildew, an

unwelcome companion to moisture that shows as fuzzy splotches.

Cleaning tips

Tackle one room at a time. A two

bucket approach is most efficient:

use one bucket for rinse water and

the other for the cleaner. Rinse

out your sponge, mop, or cleaning

cloth in the rinse bucket. Wring it

as dry as possible and keep it

rolled up tight as you put it in the

cleaner bucket. Let it unroll to

absorb the cleaner. Using two

buckets keeps most of the dirty

rinse water out of your cleaning

solution. Replace the rinse water

frequently. 

Walls

Start cleaning a wall at the bottom

or where the worst damage was.

If you did not have to remove the

wallboard or plaster, you may find

it the wallboard or plaster won’t

come clean and you will want to

replace it rather than clean it. If

you have removed the wallboard

or plaster, wash the studs and sills

and disinfect them. 

Windows

If you taped your windows before

the storm, clean the tape off as

soon as possible. The sun will

bake the adhesive into the glass. 

If glass cleaners don’t remove the

adhesive, try tar remover, acetone,

nail polish remover, or a razor

blade. And next time, don’t bother taping the windows. You don’t

get much protection for all that

effort. 

Furniture

Don’t try to force open swollen

wooden doors and drawers. Take

off the back of the piece of furniture to let the air circulate. You

will probably be able to open the

drawers after they dry.

29

6

STEP

Clean Up

6

STEP

Clean Up

• Brooms, mops, brushes, sponges

• Buckets, hose

• Rubber gloves

• Rags

• Cleaner

• Disinfectants

• Lubricating oil

• Trash bags

• Hair dryer 

Cleaning Supplies Checklist
30

6

STEP

Clean Up

Solid wood furniture can usually be repaired and cleaned, but

wood veneer often separates and

warps. Wood alcohol or turpentine applied with a cotton ball

may remove white mildew spots

on wood. Cream wood restorers

with lanolin will help restore good

wooden furniture parts.

Upholstered furniture soaks up

contaminants from floodwaters

and should be cleaned only by a

professional. This is also true of

carpets and bedding. Unless the

piece is an antique or especially

valuable, upholstered furniture

soaked by floodwaters should

probably be thrown out. Get a

cost estimate from a professional

to see if furniture is worth saving.

Appliances

There’s an unexpected danger of

shock with some electrical appliances such as TV sets and radios.

Certain internal parts store electricity even when the appliance is

unplugged. Check the back for a

warning label. Appliances with

such labels will need professional

cleaning. But first, get a cost 

estimate to see if they are worth

saving.

You’ll need appliances such 

as the washing machine, dryer,

dishwasher, and vacuum cleaner 

to help clean your home and 

contents. The motors or heating

elements can usually be cleaned. 

If you can’t wait for a professional

cleaning job, unplug, disassemble,

and hose off the appliances thoroughly (with hot water, if possible). Then clean and disinfect

them, but do not use detergents. 

Clean and disinfect dishwashers, washing machines, and dryers

only with water that has been

declared safe for drinking. Make

sure the sewer line is working

before starting a dishwasher or

washing machine.

You can speed up the drying

process for motors and parts by

using a blow dryer using a moisture displacement spray. Moisture

displacement sprays, such as electronics parts cleaners or WD-40

lubricating and penetrating oil, are

available at hardware or automotive parts stores. The sprays can

also stop rust and corrosion until

the appliance can be disassembled

and cleaned. One word of caution: the spray is flammable. Read

and follow label instructions and

precautions.

Moving parts such as motors

and pulleys will need oil or grease.

Contacts and electrical switches

can be cleaned with a moisture displacement spray or an aerosol contact cleaner available at electronics

or auto parts stores. Allow a

motor to run for 30 minutes with

no load before you use it. For

example, run the vacuum cleaner

without connecting the belt.

Watch for stripped or damaged

wire insulation. Be sure all appliances are properly grounded. 

This is most important if there was

damage to the wiring from the flood

or during cleaning. Appliances that

must be grounded have a round

third prong on their plugs. Review

the information on your electrical

system in Step 5.

Refrigerators and freezers are

more complicated. They may

have foam insulation and sealed

components that suffered little

water damage. But those appliances hold food, so they should be

Cleaners

1st choice: Non-sudsing household

cleaners

2nd choice: Laundry soap or detergent

Disinfectants

1st choice: Commercial disinfectants or sanitizers, such as the 

quaternary, phenolic, or pine oil

based ones. (Check labels for the

contents).

2nd choice: 1/4 cup (2 ounces) of

laundry bleach for 1 gallon of

water. 

Mildew Removers

1st choice: Commercial mildew

removers or mildewicides

2nd choice: Washing soda or 

tri-sodium phosphate (available at

grocery or paint stores). Use 5

tablespoons per gallon of water.

3rd choice: 1/4 cup (2 ounces) 

of laundry bleach for 1 gallon of

water. See below on using bleach.

Bleach

Liquid chlorine bleach, such as

Clorox or Purex bleach, can do a

variety of flood clean up jobs.

Make sure that 5.25% sodium

hypochlorite is the only active

ingredient. Bleach that has a scent

added to improve its smell is 

available. Scented bleach is fine 

for cleanup jobs, but don’t use it to

treat drinking water. Don’t use dry

bleach or any bleach that does not

contain chlorine.

Be careful of fumes and wear

rubber gloves. Read the safety

instructions on the label. Do not

mix bleach with other household

chemical products, especially

ammonia or toilet bowl cleaner; 

the chemical reaction can create a

poisonous gas. Do not use bleach

on aluminum or linoleum.
316

STEP

Clean Up

cleaned, disinfected, and checked

by a professional, or replaced. If

your repair person says an expensive appliance should be replaced,

get the opinion in writing and discuss it with your insurance

adjuster before you spend money

for another one.

Clothing and Linens

Even if your washing machine did

not get wet, do not use it until

you know that the water is safe

enough to drink and that your

sewer line works. (Perhaps a

friend or relative has a washing

machine you can use until yours is

clean and working.)

Before you wash clothes in the

washing machine, run the

machine through one full cycle.

Be sure to use hot water and a 

disinfectant or sanitizer. 

Take clothes and linens outdoors and shake out dried mud or

dirt before you wash them. Hose

off muddy items to remove all 

dirt before you put them in the

washer. That way your drain

won’t clog.

Check the labels on clothes and

linens, and wash them in detergent and warm water if possible.

Adding chlorine bleach to the

wash cycle will remove most

mildew and will sanitize the clothing, but bleach fades some fabrics

and damages other fabrics. You

can buy other sanitizers, such as

pine oil cleaners, at the grocery

store to sanitize fabrics that cannot

be bleached.

If the label says “Dry Clean

Only,” shake out loose dirt and

take the item to a professional

cleaner. Furs and leather items are

usually worth the cost of professional cleaning. If you want to

clean leather yourself, wash the

mud off and dry the leather slowly

away from heat or sunlight.

Kitchen items

Throw out soft plastic and porous

items that probably absorbed

whatever the floodwaters carried

in. Floodwaters are contaminated,

so you may want to wash dishes

by hand in a disinfectant. Air dry

the disinfected dishes; do not use a

dish towel.

Like the washing machine, the

dishwasher should also be used

only after you know your water is

safe to drink and your sewer line

works. Clean and disinfect it first.

Then use a hot setting to wash

your pots, pans, dishes, and utensils. (If you have an energy saving

setting, do not use it.)

Food

Throw any food out that has been

touched by floodwaters. Even

food in tin cans should be discarded if the cans got wet during the

flood because there is no way to be

absolutely certain the food inside is

safe. Do not keep food in bottles

or jars with bottle caps or screw on

lids—they do not keep out floodwaters.

The U.S. Department of

Agriculture operates a food safety hotline. Professional home economists

can answer your questions about

whether to keep or discard food.

Call 1-800-535-4555 between

10:00 am and 4:00 pm, Eastern

Time, Monday through Friday.

Paper and books

Valuable papers such as books,

photographs, and stamp collec-
32 6

STEP

Clean Up

tions can be restored with a great

deal of effort. They can be rinsed

and frozen (in a frost-free freezer

or commercial meat locker) until

you have time to work on them.

A slightly less effective alternative

to preserving an item is to place

items in a sealed container, such as

a plastic bag, with moth crystals.

Papers should be dried quickly

when they are thawed or unsealed

(a blow dryer will do). Don’t try

to force paper products apart, just

keep drying them. Photocopy

valuable papers and records soon

because substances in the water

may make them deteriorate. 

If a computer disk or tape has

valuable information, rinse it in

clear water and put it in a plastic

bag in the refrigerator. Later, you

can take it to a professional drying

center and have the data transferred to a good disk or tape.

Many companies that specialize in

restoring computers and computer

records after a disaster are members of the Disaster Recovery

Institute. To find a member company near you, you can all the

Institute at (314) 846-2007.

The Yard

As you get rid of things from your

home, don’t turn your yard into a

dump. Food and garbage must be

hauled away as soon as possible.

Other discarded items should be

removed as soon as your insurance

adjuster has told you how to make

sure their loss is covered. Other

things you throw away should be

removed as soon as your insurance

adjuster says it’s okay.

Mosquitoes can carry many 

diseases, and a flood can create

idea conditions for them to breed.

Drain or remove standing water

that can become a breeding

ground. Dump water out of 

barrels, old tires, and cans. Check

that your gutters are clean and can

drain. Ditches and drains also

need to be cleaned so they can

carry stormwater away from your

home.

If you can’t get rid of standing

water, use a commercial product

that kills mosquito larvae but does

not harm other animals. A slightly less effective method is to apply

a thin film of cooking oil on the

water. Repeat the application

within a few days after a rain has

disturbed the film.

The Lawn

Lawns usually survive being underwater for up to four days. Salt

water should be hosed off the lawn

and shrubs. Some grasses are not

damaged by saltwater flooding.

Check with your local nursery, garden store, or Cooperative Extension

Service. You may have to replace

the lawn if there was mud thicker

than one inch deep, erosion, or

chemicals in the floodwaters. 

Further Information

You will probably see more

detailed instructions on how to

clean various contents in your local

paper or hear them on the radio or

TV. Many Cooperative Extension

Service offices have more information, especially on animals, vegetables, landscape plants, and household items. Check your telephone

book under the name of your

county. For example, if you live in

Montgomery County, look under

Montgomery County Cooperative

Extension Service.
33

7

STEP

Check on Financial Assistance

How much you rebuild and

replace depends on what you

can afford. Four sources of financial

assistance can help you through

recovery: insurance, government 

disaster programs, voluntary 

agencies, and businesses. 

If you are fully insured (80 percent

of the replacement cost of your

home), you may only have to pay the

deductible and your flood insurance

policy will pay for professional 

cleaning and reconstruction. Even 

if you are insured, the other sources

of assistance can help with expenses

that your insurance policy doesn’t

cover.

Voluntary Agencies 

Private voluntary agencies such as

the American Red Cross, Salvation

Army, and church groups are usually on the scene during or right

after a flood. These groups usually provide for immediate needs

such as clothing, groceries, shelter,

medical aid, and counseling. 

Some private organizations can

help you restore your home. They

may offer supplies or sometimes

volunteers to help you clean up

and rebuild. The services are 

usually provided free of charge

regardless of a person’s eligibility

for government aid. The services

are usually provided free of charge

regardless of a person’s eligibility

for government aid.

The American Red Cross 

provides emergency assistance to

people affected by disasters,

whether or not the affect area has

been declared a disaster area by a

governor or the President. All 

Red Cross disaster assistance is free

and is provided as a gift of the

American people. The Red Cross

does not receive funding form 

the government to provide this

assistance.

The American Red Cross can

help by providing you with a

voucher to purchase new clothing,

groceries, essential medications,

rent, bedding, essential furnishings, and other items to meet

emergency needs. The Red Cross

can also provide you with a

cleanup kit: mop, broom, bucket,

and cleaning supplies. Listen to

news reports to find out where to

go for this assistance, or look up

American Red Cross in the telephone book and call. You can also

find your local Red Cross chapter

by doing a search through the Red

Cross site on the Internet’s Wide

World Web at http://www.redcross.org. 

Businesses

Your local TV, radio and newspapers will usually publicize how

businesses are contributing to the

recovery process. Some businesses

may offer reduced prices, but be

wary of “flood sales” that are selling flood damaged items.

Some insurance companies and

lenders may let you delay your

monthly payments. Sometimes

banks will make lower interest

loans available for reconstruction.

While these may seem easier to

7

STEP

Check on Financial Assistance
34

7

STEP

Check on Financial Assistance

obtain than government disaster

loans, their interest rates are usually higher.

Be careful about out-of-towners

offering “special deals,” especially

repair contractors. Sometimes the

local builders’ association will offer

advice on reconstruction or advice

on choosing contractors. (See

Step 8 on dealing with repair contractors.)

Flood Insurance Claims

You may have as many as three

separate insurance policies: homeowner’s, flood, and wind and hail.

This section covers the procedures

for handling a flood insurance

claim. Claims for non-flood damage will be handled in a similar

manner.

You should call your flood

insurance agent to report your

damage as soon as possible after

the flood. Your agent will arrange

for an adjuster to visit your home

so that your claim can be settled.

Be sure you leave phone numbers

where you can be reached. 

If you are unable to contact the

local agent, call the National

Flood Insurance Program at 1-

800-638-6620.

Under ideal conditions, the

adjuster should contact you to set

up an appointment to visit your

home within a few days after you

call your agent. But if flood damage is widespread in your area, it

may take longer for the adjuster to

visit, and it make take time for

your claim to be settled. If flooding is extensive, the adjusters will

schedule their visits to review the

most severe damage first. The

adjuster cannot estimate your

damage until floodwaters are away

from the building.

In the meantime, protect your

home and its contents from additional damage, but do not make

repairs that make it impossible for

the adjuster to see the damage.

Step 2, “Give Your Home First

Aid,” discusses how to protect

your home from further damage.

While you are waiting for the

adjuster, the following suggestions

will help you organize the information that you will need:

❑ Take photos or videotape the

damage to both the inside and

outside of the building and the

contents. 

❑ Separate your damaged and

undamaged belongings and

store them for the adjuster to

examine.

❑ Find receipts, canceled

checks, or proofs of purchase

for high cost items such as

major appliances, if possible.

The adjuster will need the manufacturer’s name; serial and

model numbers; price; location

and date of purchase; and a

description of the items.

The claims adjuster’s job is to

collect information that is sent to

a central office for processing.

The insured (you) must file a

Proof of Loss form within 60 days

of the flooding. In most cases, the

adjuster will file this form for you.

The form states the amount of

your loss and is signed by both the

insured and the adjuster. An

important point to remember is

that you will not be reimbursed for

expenses not authorized by the

adjuster.

You can ask the adjuster for an

advance or partial payment for

your building or contents loss,

• You are supposed to be reimbursed fairly for your loss, but

you are not supposed to profit

from a disaster.

• You cannot collect more than the

face value of your policy. 

• You cannot collect for uninsured

items, such as landscaping.

• Most adjusters receive a flat salary

or compensation on a per case

basis. There are no financial

incentives that encourage the

adjuster to give you a small claim

payment.

• You should get the adjuster’s

name, company, and phone number. He or she will probably be

from out of town.

• In most cases, you will be reimbursed for the actual cash value of

an item. That is the cost of

replacing the item minus depreciation. If your policy is for 80

percent or more of he replacement cost of your house, you will

be reimbursed for the replacement value of damage to your

house (no depreciation).

• If you have problems with a flood

insurance claim, your policy

should list an office or telephone

number that you can contact or

you can call your insurance agent.

Some Points on 

Settling Claims

✔
35

7

STEP

Check on Financial Assistance

especially if you need the money

to make your home liveable. An

advance will not affect the total

amount of your payment. Later,

when your total payment is determined, the amount you were

advanced will be subtracted from

it. You can also ask for a partial

payment if you disagree with the

amount of your loss on the Proof

of Loss form. Tell your adjuster if

you disagree and ask what steps

can be taken to straighten out

your claim payment.

The check to settle your flood

insurance building claim will most

likely be in your name as well as

the name of your mortgage holder.

Some insurance companies may

send the payment to your mortgage holder. Talk to your mortgage company ahead of time to

make sure there won’t be a delay

in getting your claim payment to

you.

Disaster assistance

If the flooding was widespread

and caused a lot of damage, your

community might be eligible for

state or federal aid. To receive

such assistance, your community

must be declared a disaster area by

your Governor, a federal agency

director, or the President. Local

newspaper, radio and TV will keep

you informed about disaster declarations and where to get information about any programs that

might be available to you.

If the flood were severe enough

for your area to be declared a disaster area by the federal government, the Federal Emergency

Management Agency may open

“teleregistration”, which provides a

toll-free number for you to call to

request assistance. Or, it may

open one or more Disaster

Application Centers (DAC).

These centers will give information and take applications for

assistance and are usually located

in a nearby school or other public

building. They will be open during the day and early evening for

several days to give people time to

come in. Check local newspapers,

TV and radio reports for the location and hours. 

Federal disaster assistance may

be available in some cases to deal

with uninsured losses and needs.

People who are not insured should

go to a DAC first. If possible,

those with insurance should file

their Proof of Loss form before

visiting a DAC. If there is a long

wait, you can make an appointment for a later day, or use the

toll-free number. (Look at

FEMA’s site on the World Wide

Web for more information:

http://www.fema.gov). 

When you go to a DAC or

apply for disaster assistance, take

the items listed below: The first

person you will talk to at a DAC

will be a receptionist. He or she

will review your damage and

needs, and identify which programs are most appropriate for

you. You will receive a checklist of

programs that can help you. You

can then talk to representatives of

these programs at tables in the

DAC.

There are six types of federal or

state disaster assistance. Except as

noted, the following are available

only if the President issues a disaster declaration for your area.

Before you got to a DAC or phone

the toll-free number, do your best

to get together the following information and documents. If you

don’t have all of them, don’t worry;

gather what you have and start your

disaster assistance application

process.

• Your name, address, Social

Security number, and identification

• Telephone numbers where you or

a neighbor can be reached

• Names and ages of all persons living in your home at the time of

the flood

• Insurance papers, including the

“Proof of Loss” form 

• A summary of your damage and a

rough idea of the cost of repair or

replacement (See Step 3.)

• Your income and the income of

all other members of your household.

• Who you owe money to and how

much you owe (mortgage, car

loan, etc.)

• The total amount of your living

expenses (rent, mortgage, food,

clothing, utilities, medical, and

transportation costs) 

• Directions to your property, starting from a major road, and a

road map with an X for your

property.

DAC Visit Checklist
36

7

STEP

Check on Financial Assistance

Disaster Housing Assistance

This program may provide a

safe place to live until repairs to

damaged homes are completed.

Rent assistance or mobile homes

may be provided to those without

insurance. If repairs can be done

quickly to make your house liveable, the program may provide

funds to make those repairs.

Disaster Loans

Home and business owners, farmers, and others with real or personal property losses may be eligible

for low interest loans. These loans

are administered by the federal

government’s Small Business

Administration (SBA) and the

Farmers Home Administration

(FmHA). SBA and FmHA can

provide loans even if there is no

Presidential disaster declaration.

Eligibility and loan interest

rates vary according to the income

and financial condition of the

applicant. Check your local paper

or TV or radio station for the type

of loans available for replacing

your personal property and for

repairing your house.

Individual and family grants

This program may provide funds

for necessary expenses and serious

needs. Grants can cover immediate expenses such as medical treatment, transportation, home repair,

replacement of essential personal

items, and the cost of protecting

your property from the flood.

Applicants must not have other

financial resources or be able to

qualify for an SBA disaster loan.

Income tax deductions

If a federal disaster declaration was

made, you might quality to file an

amended tax return for the past

year and get a partial refund for

your uninsured casualty losses.

Even if no federal declaration is

made, you can often deduct your

uninsured losses on your next

income tax return. Ask the

Internal Revenue Service for

Publication 547, Non-Business

Disasters, Casualties, and Theft to

get more information.

Floodproofing assistance

Restoring a building to its preflood condition used to be the

focus of government disaster programs. Now, some programs

encourage “floodproofing,”—that

is, modifying the structure to help

it withstand damage from the next

flood. (See Step 8.) The SBA’s

Disaster Loan program can loan

additional money to cover certain

floodproofing costs—ask SBA

about it. Other programs will

vary from state to state.

Counseling

A variety of programs give advice

on recovering from a disaster.

These include help with unemployment, food stamps, income

taxes, insurance claims, legal

issues, veterans benefits, and crisis

counseling. Crisis counseling can

be especially helpful in coping

with problems as you recover from

the flood before they get out of

hand. Be sure to ask the Red

Cross about “Disaster Mental

Health” information.
37

8

STEP

Rebuild and Floodproof

Don’t just build it back; build it

better. Now is the best possible

time to think about floodproofing

your home because you can take definite action to protect your property

in the future. many floodproofing

measures are quite simple, cost effective, and easy to put in place. By

floodproofing as you rebuild, you can

make the next flood easier on you

and your wallet.

Floodproofing 

Floodproofing means to remodel

or rebuild using materials and

methods that will prevent or minimize damage from future floods.

Consider the benefits to floodproofing your home:

• By protecting your home from

damage, floodproofing will save

you money and aggravation

during the next flood.

• Many floodproofing measures

are inexpensive.

• Protecting your house from

future flood damage will

increase your property’s resale

value.

• Many floodproofing measures

can be easily worked in during

repair and rebuilding, reducing

your costs.

• Some financial assistance programs can help pay for floodproofing.

• By preparing for the next flood,

you regain control over your

future—a guaranteed way to

reduce your level of anxiety and

stress. You don’t have to wait

for the government to act; you

can take care of protecting your

home when you are ready.

• Floodproofing won’t make it

possible for you to stay at home

in a flood. But it is likely to

make it much quicker and 

easier for you to clean up the

next time.

Before you repair or rebuild, 

the first thing you should do is

talk to your town’s or city’s or

county’s building department.

You will need to ask the following

questions:

❑ What are the procedures for

applying for a building permit?

What inspections will need to

be done?

❑ Is your home substantially damaged? (Substantially damaged

means that the cost to restore

your home to its “before damaged” condition would equal or

exceed 50% of the market value

your home had before the damage occurred.) The flood protection level is the level of flooding

that you want your house to be

able to withstand without 

damage to your house or your

belongings.

Start by asking your building

department what flood protection level it requires for your

area. If there has been a flood

higher than the level they give

you, you should use that flood’s

level plus 1 or 2 feet for safety.

The next flood may be worse.

8

STEP

Rebuild and Floodproof

✔
38

8

STEP

Rebuild and Floodproof

The next step is to decide if you

will be better off living in a different location, away from areas that

flood. Ask your building official

about government agencies that

sometimes purchase property for

open space or flood protection in

areas that flood—you may qualify.

If you are sure that you will

repair or rebuild your house in the

flood-prone area, choose the

floodproofing type that is best for

your home or property. there are

give basic types of floodproofing

described here, as well as rebuilding tips to help you safely repair

and rebuild.

Five Types of

Floodproofing

1. Elevation

Most buildings can be raised so

that the lowest floor is above the

possible flood level. If you had

foundation damage from the

flood, you may need to raise the

house to repair it. It will be easier

and cheaper to elevate the house at

that time.

There should be many contractors qualified to undertake elevating your house above flood level.

Elevation or relocation are the

only reasonable ways to protect

your home if it is subject to

coastal flooding or to deep flooding (more than six feet deep.)

Elevation and relocation are also

the most dependable measures for

floodproofing your home.

An elevated building will need a

new foundation. The contractor

will jack up a structure and temporarily set it on a temporary

framework called cribbing while

the foundation is built underneath. The foundations of an elevated building may be columns,

piers, pilings, or raised foundation

walls. The elevated building will

usually look better and have added

protection if fill dirt is placed

around the new foundation. But

check with your building department before adding fill dirt. It

may not be allowed in your community.

2. Relocation

Moving a building out of the

flood-prone area is the surest way

to protect it from flood damage.

Most houses and smaller commercial buildings in good condition

can be moved, and it is usually no

problem to find contractors experienced in moving buildings. You

will have to purchase a new lot

unless your present lot is large and

has a good spot on higher ground

for your house. Relocation and

elevation are the only reasonable

choices for protecting a home that

is subject to deep flooding (of

more than six feet in depth) or to

coastal flooding.

3. Floodwalls

Floodwalls, berms, and levees all

work to keep floodwaters from

reaching your house. They are

built to at least the height of the

flood protection level in your area.

Floodwalls are usually made of
39

8

STEP

Rebuild and Floodproof

concrete. Berms are simply small

levees, usually built from fill dirt. 

Floodwalls, berms, and levees

can either surround the building

(ring levee) or connect to high

ground. They can also be built up

against a building’s foundation

walls. a sump and pump will be

needed to pump out water that

seeps under the wall. Floodwalls,

levees, or berms may not be

allowed in your area if they could

create a drainage problem on your

neighbor’s property. check with

your building department before

you build. 

Floodwalls of all types work

best in places where flooding is

less than three feet deep. If floodwaters near your home develop

swift currents, floodwalls, levees,

and berms cannot be used—they

may wash away. floodwalls and

berms may not be appropriate for

homes with basements.

If there is not enough room for

a berm or levee, you may be able

to build a floodwall made of concrete, which takes up less room.

The walls should contain internal

reinforcing bars to give added

strength as well as to help walls

resist cracking and settling over

time. Walls must be properly

anchored to withstand the same

water pressure that can destroy

basement walls. 

4. Dry floodproofing

Dry floodproofing means sealing 

a building to keep floodwaters

out. All areas below the flood

protection level are made watertight. Walls are coated with 

plastic or rubberized sheeting or

special waterproofing compounds.

Openings such as doors, windows,

sewer lines, and vents are closed

permanently, or can be temporarily sealed with removable shields or

sandbags. 

Dry floodproofing can only be

done if the walls of your home are

strong enough to hold back the

floodwaters without collapsing.

For this reason, dry floodproofing

is not recommended if floodwaters

are expected to be more than two

or three feet above the ground

level. Dry floodproofing is generally not appropriate for houses

with basements or crawl spaces. 

5. Wet floodproofing

Wet floodproofing means modifying a building so that floodwaters

will cause only minimal damage to

the building and contents.

Building materials below the flood

protection level are replaced with

materials that are resistant to

water. Floodwaters are allowed

into the building to counteract the

pressure of the water on the outside of the walls.
40

8

STEP

Rebuild and Floodproof

You should furnish areas that

have been wet floodproofed with

light, portable furniture that can

be easily and quickly moved

before a flood. Objects that are

difficult to move, such as furnaces,

water heaters, appliances, and

bookcases, are either put on platforms or reinstalled upstairs.

Wet floodproofing has one

advantage over the other four

floodproofing times: even the

smallest efforts will significantly

reduce flood damage the next

time. Thousands of dollars can be

saved simply by moving furniture

and electrical appliances out of

areas that will flood. If you decide

not to use one of the other four

floodproofing types, you should

use wet floodproofing measures as

you repair and rebuild. The

rebuilding Tips in this section give

more wet floodproofing ideas.

Building permit

One you’ve determined the repairs

and floodproofing measures you

are going to take, local codes generally require that you get a building permit. Before you make

repairs or alterations to your home

or property, make sure your plans

are reviewed and okayed by your

building department. You may

also need to get the okay of our

homeowner’s association or mortgage holder before you make

repairs or alterations to your home

or property.

If you are just replacing items

such as carpeting or wallboard,

you will probably not need a permit—but you should check with

your local building department

before you proceed. You will usually have to get a permit for electrical work and repairs of structural damage, such as broken walls.

Most local and state building

codes require that a building that

is substantially damaged be treated

as a new building. a new residential building must be built so that

its lowest floor is at or above the

flood protection level. In other

words, if your home meets the criteria described above for “substantially damaged,” you will have no

choice but to elevate or relocate

your home in order to meet local

building codes. 

Failure to follow the local building code can result in an order to

stop reconstruction, a fine, imprisonment, higher flood insurance rates,

denial of flood insurance, or all of

the above.

Rebuilding tips

Give your house plenty of time to

dry. Many problems result from

rebuilding after a flood before

everything dries. If it takes a week

for the visible signs of moisture to

disappear, allow at least another

week for the parts you cannot see

to dry. Don’t try to force a

swollen door to close. Don’t force

wooden parts to fit. When completely dry, the wood may regain

its original shape.

There are small, inexpensive

measures you can take to make

your recovery easier after the next

flood.
41

8

STEP

Rebuild and Floodproof

Utilities

Move the main breaker or fuse

box and the utility meters above

the flood protection level for your

home. Make sure each circuit is

labeled so you know which circuits control which outlets and

fixtures. If the electrical code

allows, raise the electrical outlets

and switches above your flood

protection level.

If you are going to replace a

flooded furnace, water heater, or

air conditioner, install the new one

on a higher floor. If your new air

conditioner or heat pump will be

outside, install it on a platform

above the flood protection level. a

water heater can be put anywhere

near a hot water pipe. An updraft

furnace located in a basement can

be replaced with a downdraft furnace on a floor above the flood

protection level. 

You can protect the furnace,

water heater, washer, and dryer

from shallow flooding with a low

floodwall built around the appliance. a concrete or wooden wall 1

or 2 feet high can stop low-level

flooding. The wall should be

waterproofed with plastic sheeting

or waterproofing compounds that

can be purchased at hardware

stores.

Walls

Wash and disinfect the studs and

sills if the wallboard and insulation had to be removed. If you

are going to rebuild the walls,

remember that metal studs and

sills are not damaged by water as

much as wooden ones. 

Pressure-treated wood will resist

mildew and wood eating insects

outdoors, but it may swell as

much as untreated wood when

soaked. Some kinds of pressuretreated wood should not be used

inside the house, where they will

come into contact with food or

skin. (It depends on which chemicals were used to treat them.)

Ask your lumber company to help

you choose the right products for

jobs you will do. They would also

have consumer information sheets

that give specific precautions for

some products. Ask for them.

Wallboard

Think horizontal rather than vertical. Install the wallboard panels

sideways so they are only four feet

high. If the next flood is less than

four feet deep, you only have to

replace half the wall. 

Where the flood protection

level is not too high, a furnace,

water heater or other heavy appliance can also be raised on a platform inside the house. Put the

appliance on concrete blocks or a

wooden platform supported by

concrete blocks. Make certain

that appliances such as washers

and dryers are secure and will not

vibrate off the blocks or platform

during use.

• Concrete, concrete block, or

glazed brick 

• Clay, concrete, or ceramic tile 

• Galvanized or stainless steel nails,

hurricane clips, and connectors

(in areas subject to salt water

flooding)

• Indoor-outdoor carpeting with

synthetic backing (do not fasten

down)

• Vinyl, terrazzo, rubber, or vinyl

floor covering with waterproof

adhesives

• Metal doors and window frames 

• Polyester-epoxy paint (do not use

mildew-resistant paint indoors,

especially on cribs, playpens, or

toys because it contains an ingredient that is toxic.)

• Stone, slate, or cast stone (with

waterproof mortar)

• Styrofoam insulation

• Water resistant glue

Products that resist 

water damage
42

8

STEP

Rebuild and Floodproof

This drawing shows another

suggestion. Leave the wall open

one inch above the sill. The baseboard will hide this gap. When

you remove the baseboard after

the next flood, the wall cavity will

drain freely and air will circulate

better. Check your local codes,

however. If a firewall is required,

the building code may not allow

the gap.

“Greenboard” or other moisture

resistant wallboard is made for

bathrooms and other damp areas,

such as basements. It may be

more sturdy when wet than regular wallboard. However, if soaked

with floodwaters, it will present

the same health hazard as regular

wallboard and should be replaced. 

Floors

Some floors are made with particle

board or plywood, materials that

fall apart when wet for long.

Floor joists and some wood floors

will regain their shapes if allowed

to dry naturally.

After re-nailing, a wooden floor

may need a little sanding to be

smooth, or you can place a new

underlayment for a new floor over

it. Use screws or screw nails on

floors and stairs to minimize

warping. Do not lay new flooring

or carpet until the subflooring is

completely dry. 

Painting

Do not paint until the surface is

completely dry. If the surface still

contains moisture, the paint will

peel. Things look dry on the surface long before they are dry on

the inside, and this can lead to

costly mistakes. It may take several weeks for the surface to dry out

enough.

To get an idea if a wall or floor

is dry enough to paint, dry an area

approximately 18 inches square

with a blow dryer. (When checking a wall, select an area near the

floor where it will be most damp.)

Cover the area with a piece of

clear plastic sheeting. Carefully

seal all the edges with tape. Check

the plastic 24 hours later. If there

are beads of condensation on the

side of the plastic that face the

wall or the floor, it’s still too damp

to paint.

You can cover concrete surfaces

with a clear coating or penetrating

sealer to make cleanup easier next

time. Don’t paint over water

stains—they will bleed through

several coats of paint. Coat the

stained area with shellac or a commercial stain killer before painting.

If you are going to dry floodproof your walls, don’t rely on

waterproofing paints; they cannot

keep floodwaters out. Such paints

may protect a deck from rain, but

they cannot protect walls and

floors against the pressure of

standing water. (Thick plastic or

rubberized sheeting provides the

most secure waterproofing seal.) 

1” gap
43

8

STEP

Rebuild and Floodproof

Windows

If you live near the coast, your

home is likely to suffer damage

from the high winds and floodwaters of a hurricane or nor’easter.

Boarding up all your windows and

doors are the best way to protect

them from breaking and letting in

the heavy rains that a coastal

storm brings. Taping windows

will not prevent them from breaking during a storm.

Cut plywood to fit each of your

windows and doors well before a

storm threatens. Label each piece

so you’ll know which window or

door it covers. Store the plywood

with the nails or other fasteners

you will need to attach them.

That way, you will be able to put

the plywood up quickly when a

storm threatens.

Contractors

You may need a contractor to help

you rebuild, especially to handle

the difficult jobs such as foundation repair and electrical work. 

If you have been satisfied with

work done by licensed local 

contractors, try them first. If 

they cannot help you, ask them

for recommendations.

If you must hire a contractor

you do not know, talk to several

contractors before you sign anything. Reputable contractors

would agree that you should take

the following steps: 

❑ Check on the firm’s reputation. The local Better Business

Bureau, home builders association, or building trades council

are excellent sources. Ask if 

the firm has had unanswered

complaints filed against it.

❑ Ask for proof of insurance.

Be sure the contractor has 

disability and worker’s compensation insurance. If the 

contractor is not insured, you

may be liable for accidents on

your property.

❑ Ask for references.

Contractors should be willing

to provide names of previous

customers. Call some of the

customers and ask if they would

hire the contractor again.

❑ Ask for a written estimate.

Check it to make sure it

includes everything you expect

the contractor to do. Some

contractors charge a fee for an

estimate, which is understandable because they have plenty of

work to do after a flood.

❑ Ask for a contract. The contract should be complete and

clearly state all the work, the

costs, and the payment schedule. Never sign a blank contract or one with blank spaces.

If a lot of money is involved, it

may be worth your while to

have an attorney look at the

contract before you sign it.

❑ Ask for any guarantees in

writing. If the contractor provides guarantees, they should be

written into the contract, clearly

stating what is guaranteed, who

is responsible for the guarantee

(the dealer, the contractor, or

the manufacturer), and how

long the guarantee is valid.

❑ Obtain a copy of the final

signed contract. Once signed,

it is binding on both you and

the contractor.

Avoid using or storing in areas likely to flood: 

• Fiberglass or cellulose insulation 

• Cork, corkboard 

• Gasoline, weed killer, pesticide,

lye, drain cleaner, swimming pool

and other chemicals

• Linoleum

• Particle board, chipboard, fiberboard, paperboard, strawboard,

Masonite paneling

• Wallboard, Sheetrock, drywall,

gypsum

• Wallpaper

Products to Avoid

✔
44

8

STEP

Rebuild and Floodproof

❑ Don’t sign off before the job

is finished. Don’t sign completion papers or make the final

payment until the work is completed to your satisfaction. a

reputable contractor will not

threaten you or pressure you to

sign if the job is not finished

properly.

Areas recuperating from floods

are often prime targets for lessthan-honest business activities.

Building codes often require that

work be done only by licensed

contractors. Some building

departments and trade associations

keep lists of contractors who work

in the community.

Here are some points to

remember:

• Be cautious when contractors

you don’t know offer “special

deals” after a disaster or want to

use your home as a “model

home.” 

• Ask for complete financial

details in writing and for an

explanation of any differences

from regular prices. Sales are

worthwhile and they do exist,

but be sure you are getting the

services and products you are

paying for.

• Do not sign a contract when a

salesperson has pressured you.

Federal law requires a three-day

“cooling off” period for unsolicited door-to-door sales of

more than $25. If you want to

cancel such a contract within

three business days of signing it,

send your cancellation by registered mail. Other types of sales

may have contracts with different cancellation clauses.

• Beware if you are asked to pay

cash on the spot instead of a

check made out to the contracting company. a reasonable

down payment is up to 30% of

the total cost of the project.

• Make sure your contractor calls

you or a qualified observer to

inspect work before it is covered

over. Shoddy work on sewers or

basement walls will be hidden

from view, and you won’t know

if there is a problem until the

next flood. Most building

departments will want to

inspect electrical and plumbing

lines before the walls are covered

with wallboard or paneling.

If you are a victim of fraud or

have problems with a less than

reputable contractor, the state or

local consumer protection office

or public attorney should be able

to tell you what to do.
45

9

STEP

Prepare for the Next Flood

Be prepared is more than just a

Scout motto. Your home will

very likely be flooded again someday.

Preparing for the next flood will

protect you and your family, your

property, your finances, and your

peace of mind. In addition to the

floodproofing measures discussed in

the previous step, you should buy

flood insurance, develop a flood

response plan, and help your community implement a flood protection

program.

Flood Insurance

Even if you have floodproofed

your home, you still need insurance to protect you from the

unexpected events such as a flood

that rises higher than your flood

protection level. If you have

insurance, find out whether you

have the right kinds of coverage,

and whether you have adequate

coverage. Homeowners’ policies

do not cover damage caused by

floods, so you will probably need

to purchase a separate policy

under the National Flood

Insurance Program (NFIP).

An NFIP policy covers:

• Damage to your building or

contents caused by a general

condition of surface water

flooding (up to the amount of

your coverage)

• Costs for protecting your property from flood damage, including moving and storing your

contents for up to 45 days (up

to the amount of the

deductible)

• Expenses for removing debris

left by the flood 

An NFIP policy does not cover:

• Damage caused by high ground

water, sewer backup, subsurface

flows, or local drainage problems that are not considered a

“general condition of flooding”

• Property located outside an

insurable building, including

fences, outdoor swimming

pools, driveways, docks, floodwalls, crops in the field, and

landscaping

• Vehicles, trailers on wheels, and

boats 

• Paneling, carpeting, furniture,

and contents in the finished

portion of a basement or underneath an elevated building

• Animals

• Money, valuable papers, and

land values

• Living expenses and lost income

The NFIP provides federallybacked insurance coverage for any

building in a community that is

participating in the program.

Almost every type of walled and

roofed building can be insured. 

It does not matter whether the

building is in or out of the floodplain. A mobile (manufactured)

home affixed to a permanent site

and properly anchored can also be

insured. You can get coverage on

the building as well as for contents. Building coverage.

Insurance can be purchased for

9

STEP

Prepare for the Next Flood
46

9

STEP

Prepare for the Next Flood

the walls, floors, insulation, wall to

wall carpeting, furnace, and other

items permanently attached to the

structure. (Permanent items

include anything that would not

fall out if you turned the building

upside down; i.e., items that stay

with the building when it is sold.)

Up to 10% of the policy value for

building coverage may apply to a

detached garage or carport on the

same lot.

If you buy insurance for 80 percent or more of the replacement

value of your home, you will be

reimbursed for the replacement

value of damage to your home—

no depreciation will apply. If your

coverage is for less than 80%, you

will be reimbursed for the actual

cash value of the damage—replacement value minus depreciation.

Contents coverage. Contents

coverage insures your personal

property. Renters as well as owners may purchase contents coverage. Although you can get contents coverage without having a

building coverage policy, those

contents must be located in a

building that can be insured under

the NFIP. Contents coverage will

pay some costs to move and store

contents in a safe place when a

flood threatens. 

Basements. Building coverage

is recommended to cover the

walls, floor, furnace, and other

structural components of a basement. However, the NFIP does

not cover finished portions of a

basement (carpets, wallboard) or

its contents. Damage to the basement foundation is a major problem during floods, so this coverage

can be very important even

though it does not cover the finished portions (carpets, wallpaper)

of basements. Some private companies sell coverage for water damage caused by sewer backup or

sump pump failure—items that

are not covered by the NFIP.

NFIP flood insurance is sold

through private insurance agents

and companies. All companies

offer identical coverage and rates.

Newer or substantially improved

houses are charged according to

their elevation in relation to the

expected flood level. Older

homes, which are “grandfathered”

in, qualify for a flat, subsidized

rate. Houses outside floodplains

that are identified on Flood

Insurance Rate Maps pay lower

rates. You can check your property’s location on a Flood Insurance

Rate Map at your building department or an insurance agent.

A few private insurance companies sell their own flood insurance

policies, although the coverage

and rates are different from the

NFIP’s. Some mobile home

insurance covers flood losses.

Unlike the NFIP, private insurance

will vary from company to company so check several for their

coverage and rates.

If you are located in a floodplain shown on a Flood Insurance

Rate Map, you must buy flood

insurance coverage as a condition

of having a mortgage or home

improvement loan from a federally

regulated lender or as a condition

for getting federal disaster assistance. In some cases, private

insurance will suffice for this

requirement, but generally the

lender or disaster assistance agency

will ask to see an NFIP policy.
47

9

STEP

Prepare for the Next Flood

Flood Response Plan

Preparing a flood response plan

will help you think through all the

details that demand attention as

the floodwaters approach. This is

a project for the whole family. As

you write down the plan, you can

make sure everyone understands

it. And having the plan in writing

will help you remember what to

do when everyone is in a hurry

and excited because a flood is

coming.

The next flood might be worse

than the last one. Talk to your

building official or city or county

engineer about that possibility.

See Step 8 for information on the

flood protection level in your area

to use as you prepare your flood

response plan.

Check with your local emergency manager or Red Cross chapter for the official warning and

evacuation procedures. Find out

how much warning time you will

have to leave your home before

the flood reaches you. Identify a

friend, relative, or motel where

you can go when you asked to

evacuate. Test drive your evacuation route to be certain it will be

passable when flooding is likely.

Be prepared to evacuate when told

to do so or if you see floodwaters

rising. You may hear flood warning and evacuation information

on your local TV and radio stations.

Make a record of all your personal property. Go through your

home room by room recording

household inventories and taking

photographs or videotapes.

Inventory forms are available from

most insurance companies, or you

can use the format shown in Step 3.

Keep photocopies of inventory

records, insurance policies, deeds,

and other valuable papers at a different location, someplace outside

of the flood-prone area.

If flooding in your area is from

sewer backup or basement, your

own water alarm can give you precious lead time before your

belongings are damaged by floodwaters. a water alarm is similar to

a smoke alarm; it beeps when

water touches it. Water alarms

cost $10 to $20 and are available

at hardware stores.

Develop a flood response plan

based on the flood protection

level, local warning procedures,

and the time you will have to

respond. In flash flood areas, you

may only have enough time to

evacuate. But if you live in areas in

the path of a hurricane or on large

rivers, you may have 12-24 hours

of warning time.

Flash floods

If you live in a mountainous area,

or if your flooding comes from a

small stream or ditch, your home

may be subject to flash flooding.

Flash floods can occur before the

local emergency managers have

time to issue a warning. In these

cases, the National Weather

Service may issue a flash flood

watch advising people that conditions are favorable for a flash

flood. You may not be notified of

a flash flood warning before flooding actually begins.

Buy flood insurance protection

before the next flood is threatening.

There is a thirty-day waiting period

before NFIP flood coverage takes

effect. Contact your insurance

agent for information on rates and

coverage.

Don’t wait.

Floods can take several hours to

days to develop.

• A flood watch means a flood is

possible in your area. 

• A flood warning means flooding is

already occurring or will occur

soon in your area.

Flood Watch, Flood Warning
48

9

STEP

Prepare for the Next Flood

Hurricanes

If you live near the coast, you will

be asked to evacuate when a hurricane threatens your community.

It is important to evacuate when

you are asked to. Prepare your

flood response plan to take into

account all of the time that you

will need to protect your home

before you evacuate. You will

need time to board your windows

and to clear your yard so that your

belongings will not blow or float

away. You may also want to take

time to move your belongings

above the flood protection level.

(See Step 8.) 

Developing a checklist

Your flood response plan should

be a checklist of steps to take

before floodwaters reach your

home. The following are examples of things to include:

❑ Listen to local radio or TV 

stations for flood information

and evacuation instructions.

❑ Read safety precautions at the

top of this document.

❑ Get into the habit of keeping a

full tank of gas in your car,

especially at times of the year

when flooding can be expected

in your area. 

❑ Pack the car with supplies you

need while away from home.

❑ Put supplies needed for clean

up and recovery in a safe place.

If your flood protection level is

over your top floor, you may

have to store supplies at a

friend’s home away from the

flood-prone area or take them

with you in your car.

❑ Take pets to a kennel or friend’s

place on high ground. Health

codes do not allow animals in

public shelters.

❑ If you have enough warning

time, move your contents above

the flood protection level or to

another safe place. Some of the

cost of doing this can be 

covered under an NFIP flood

insurance policy. 

❑ Install flood shields and other

floodproofing measures you

may have prepared.

❑ In hurricane-prone areas, 

protect against wind damage.

Install hurricane shutters or 

plywood covers over windows

and doors, take down TV

antennas, and securely tie 

down boats, garbage cans, and

everything else left outdoors.

❑ Tape plastic around the cap to

your well. This will prevent

most, but not all, floodwater

from entering your water 

supply. You will still have to

disinfect your water, as

explained in Step 5. 

❑ Turn off the electricity, gas, oil,

and water. 

❑ Lock your home.

❑ Follow your designated evacuation route to a place of shelter.

If You Are Asked To

Evacuate

Take essential disaster supplies

with you. See “Disaster Supplies

Kit” on this web site. 

Community activities

Your neighborhood or community

can take steps to reduce flood losses in the future. Recent flooding

may prompt local governments to

If it is raining a lot, or if you are in

mountainous areas, it’s a good idea

to keep listening to local radio 

stations (not stations in locations

away from where you are). If you

hear a flash flood watch for your

area, it’s a good idea to stay on high

ground.

If you hear a flash flood 

warning, climb to higher ground

immediately. Leave your car, 

camping gear, or other belongings

where they are. You may have only

minutes to escape.

Flash floods can happen without

warning. If you hear a rumbling

sound, if animals are running away

from where you are, or if you feel

the ground shaking, climb to higher

ground immediately.

Flash Flood Watch

✔
49

9

STEP

Prepare for the Next Flood

start a flood planning effort that

encourages citizens to participate.

If no effort is underway, encourage

your community leaders to get a

flood protection program started.

There are many ways to reduce

flood damage. a community flood

protection program should consider a variety of activities. The 

obvious solution often seems to be

“fixing” the shoreline or river

using flood control projects such

as dredging or seawalls.

Unfortunately, these activities may

not be effective, feasible, or affordable without state or federal aid.

Because flood control projects

require so much planning, time,

and money, communities should

also consider and implement other

approaches.

Keeping the ditches and

drainageways open is very important. Trash, construction materials, shopping carts, and even grass

clippings dumped in a ditch can

clog bridges and culverts, and add

to water pollution. 

Neighborhood efforts to keep

the ditches clean and to report

dumpers can make a big difference

in the amount of flooding, especially during smaller storms.

Report illegal floodplain construction activities (i.e., those without a

permit posted) to the building

department.

You can work with your neighbors to monitor stream levels or

rain gages to give the community

advance warning. It may also be

possible to monitor common

debris catching sites, such as

bridges, and keep the openings

clear.

Sandbagging

Sandbagging can be very expensive. If your community wants to

establish a plan for sandbagging,

you will have to buy sandbags

before a flood to be sure you have

them on hand. Get burlap or

plastic sandbags. Other kinds of

bags simply won’t hold up. Burlap

or plastic bags cost 25¢ to 50¢

each. Sand and plastic sheeting

must also be stockpiled. 

Sandbagging can also be very

time consuming. It takes two

people approximately one hour to

fill and place 100 sandbags, giving

you a wall one foot high and 20

feet long. If you skimp on the

bags, you risk putting up a wall

that will be knocked over.

When a flood is imminent,

everyone wants to sandbag, usually because they don’t know what

else to do. While it does have a

therapeutic effect, sandbagging

should be considered only as part

of an overall flood response plan,

or as a last resort for individuals.

A good plan will help use your

limited time and resources most

efficiently. For example, a food

response plan might call for sandbags to fill in gaps in a floodwall.

Sandbagging is supposed to

keep water away from vulnerable

flood-prone property.

Floodproofing measures and moving contents out of the way are

much more secure methods to

accomplish the same thing.

Therefore, before you consider

sandbagging for your personal

property, consider the flood protection alternatives discussed in

Step 8. They are more effective

and more dependable ways to protect a home from flooding.
50

9

STEP

Prepare for the Next Flood

Sources of information

The following people can provide

advice or assistance on flood

recovery. Some of these people

may be able to speak to neighborhood groups or help in developing

a community flood protection

program.

Flood Preparedness and Safety

The American Red Cross and

local emergency managers conduct

sessions to increase public awareness and to educate the community in ways to prevent, prepare for,

and cope with emergencies. Local

emergency managers also sponsor

public meetings on damage reduction, safety, response planning,

how to handle stress, and other

flood-related topics.

The following publications are

available from the American Red

Cross. Contact your Red Cross

chapter for more information:

• Your Family Disaster Plan

(ARC 4466)

• Su plan para el hogar en caso de

desastres (ARC 4466S)

• Your Family Disaster Supplies

Kit (ARC 4463)

• Su Equipo de suministros para la

familia en caso de desastres (ARC

4463S)

• Safe Living in Your

Manufactured Home (ARC

4465)

• Are You Ready for a Flood or

Flash Flood? (ARC 4458)

• ¿Está preparado para una inundación or inundación súbita?

(ARC 4458S)

• Are You Ready for a Hurricane?

(ARC 4454)

• ¿Está preparado para un

huracán? (ARC 4454S)

Clean up

Many Cooperative Extension

Service offices have home economists and food and farm experts.

Check your telephone book under

the county name. For example, if

you live in Pittsburg County,

check under “Pittsburg County

Cooperative Extension Service”.

Questions on cleaning or disinfecting of specific materials can be

answered by manufacturers of

cleaning products. Check the

product labels for toll free telephone numbers.

Flood insurance 

Your property insurance agent is

the best source of information on

flood insurance. He or she can

give you forms and instructions

for making your own property

inventory. a free copy of Answers

to Questions about the National

Flood Insurance Program, FIA—2,

is available from the Federal

Emergency Management Agency.

(See address below.)

Repairs and rebuilding

Local building and housing

departments, and hardware stores

are excellent sources of technical

advice. Their staffs have many

years of experience in dealing with

local construction conditions.

Home maintenance and repair

books that are found in libraries or

bookstores are invaluable references for the do-it-yourselfer.

Private home inspectors can

give you itemized lists and cost

estimates of needed repairs. (Look

in the yellow pages under Building

Inspection Services.) Building

trades associations and the Better

Business Bureau can provide guidance on dealing with contractors.
51

9

STEP

Prepare for the Next Flood

Floodproofing

Some local building officials and

contractors are familiar with

floodproofing techniques. Several

states and communities have published floodproofing or “retrofitting” manuals. The Federal

Emergency Management Agency

and the U.S. Army Corps of

Engineers have several publications that provide excellent summaries of various floodproofing

measures. The following are available free from:

Federal Emergency

Management Agency

Attn: Publications

P. O. Box 2012

Jessup, MD 20794-2012

• Design Manual for Retrofitting

Flood-prone Residential

Structures, FEMA-114. This

detailed manual explains all the

floodproofing options in language a homeowner can understand.

• Elevated Residential Structures,

FEMA-54.

• Floodproofing Non-residential

Structures, FEMA-102.

• Coastal Construction Manual,

FEMA-55.

• Manufactured Home Installation

in Flood Hazard Areas, FEMA85.

The following are available for

free from:

U.S. Army Corps of Engineers

Attn: CECW-PF

20 Massachusetts Avenue, NW

Washington, D.C. 20314

• Introduction to Flood Proofing,

John R. Sheaffer, 1967

• Flood-Proofing Regulations, U.S.

Army Corps of Engineers,

Pittsburgh District, 1990, 80

pages (Corps publication EP

1165 3 314).

• Flood Proofing Systems &

Techniques, L.N. Flanagan, 

editor, 1984

• Flood Proofing Tests, Tests of

Materials and Systems for Flood

Proofing Structures, Corps of

Engineers, National Flood

Proofing Committee, August,

1988.

• Raising and Moving the SlabOn-Grade House, Corps of

Engineers National Flood

Proofing Committee, 1990.

References on technical aspects

of floodproofing can be located

through the Floodplain

Management Resource Center, a

free service provided by the

Association of State Floodplain

Managers. Call 303/492-6818

9:00 am - 4:00 pm, Mountain

Time.

FEMA Regional Offices

Region I—

CT, ME, MA NH, RI, VT

FEMA Region I

J.W. McCormack POCH, Rm.

442

Boston, Massachusetts 02109-

4595

(617) 223-9561
52

9

STEP

Prepare for the Next Flood

Region II—

NJ, NY, PR, VI

FEMA Region II

26 Federal Plaza, Rm. 1337

New York, NY 10278-0002

(212) 225-7202

Region III—

DE, DC, MD, PA, VA, WV

FEMA Region III

Liberty Square Bldg., 2nd Floor

105 S. Seventh Street

Philadelphia, Pennsylvania

19106-3392

(215) 931-5750

Region IV—

AL, FL, GA, KY, MS, NC, SC, TN

FEMA Region IV

1371 Peachtree St., N.E., Suite

700

Atlanta, Georgia 30309-3108

(404) 853-4400

Region V—

IL, IN, MI, MN, OH, WI

FEMA Region V

175 West Jackson Street, 4th Floor

Chicago, Illinois 60604-2698

(312) 408-5533

Region VI—

AR, LA, NM, OK, TX

FEMA Region VI

Federal Regional Center., Rm.

206

800 N. Loop 288

Denton, Texas 76201-3698

(817) 898-5127

Region VII—

IA KS, MO, NE

FEMA Region VII

911 Walnut Street, Room 200

Kansas City, Missouri 64106-

2085

(816) 283-7002

Region VIII—

CO, MT, ND, SD, UT, WY

FEMA Region VIII

Denver Regional Center

Building 710, Box 25267

Denver, Colorado 80225-0267

(303) 235-4830

Region IX—

AZ, CA, HI, NV

FEMA Region IX

Building 105

Presidio of San Francisco

San Francisco, California 94129-

1250

(415) 923-7176

Region X—

AK, ID, OR, WA

FEMA Region X

Federal Regional Center

130 228th St., S.W.

Bothell, Washington 98021-9796

(206) 487-4682
54

Repairing Your Flooded Home

A

Adjuster 11, 12, 16, 27, 28, 31- 

32

Air Conditioning 10, 15, 39

American Red Cross 2, 13, 25,

30, 46, 50

Animals 3, 7 47

Anxiety 1, 2, 35

Appliances 

Cleaning 26-27 

Gas 21 

Protecting 38, 39

B

Baseboards 18, 19, 40

Basement 20, 37, 38, 39,

40, 45

Berms 37, 38

Bleach 23, 24, 26, 27

Books 7, 28

Builders 41-42

Building permit 35, 38-39

C

Cabinets 7, 15

Calcium Chloride 16

Carpet 12, 13, 16, 20, 26, 40

Ceiling 6-7, 8, 13, 17-19

Children 2

Chimney 21

Cleaning 

Advice 9-10, 25-29, 50 

Cleaners 26 

Supplies 25, 49

Closets 15, 16

Clothing, cleaning 27

Community activities 49

Computers 28

Concrete 19, 40, 41

Contractors 41-42

Contracts 42

Cosmetics 16

Counseling 2, 33-34

Crawl space 10, 20

Credit Cards 13-14

Crisis counseling 2, 33-34

D

Dampness 15

Dehumidifier 15

Depression 1

Desiccants 15-16

Disaster assistance 32-34

Dishes, cleaning 3, 27

Disinfectants 26

Drywall, see Wallboard

Drying 15-20

Ducts, heating or cooling 10-15

E

Electrical system 

Circuit breakers 5, 13, 22-23 

Cleaning 9-10, 22 

Electricity safety 22 

Fuse boxes 5, 13, 22-23 

Turning off 5 

Turning on 22-23

Elevation 36

Evacuation supplies 48

F

Fatigue 1-3

Financial assistance 13, 30-34

Flash floods 46-47

Flood insurance 7-8, 21, 44-46 

Claims 11, 12, 31-32 

References 51

Flood protection 

Community activities 49 

Emergency steps 47

Flood response plan 46-49

Flood proofing 13, 35-41 

Assistance 33 

References 51

Flood protection level 35, 36, 37, 

38, 29, 44

Flood response plan 46-49

Flood warning 46

Flood watch 46

Floodwall 37, 38, 39, 44, 49

Floor 8, 12, 13, 20, 40 

See also Carpet

Flooring 20, 40, 41, 51 

See also Carpet

Foam rubber 16, 20

Food 11, 16-17, 27-28, 48

Foundation 5, 12, 13, 20, 36, 37, 

38, 45

Fuel oil 6, 21

Furnace 15, 21, 38, 39, 45

Furniture 10, 13, 16, 26, 38, 44 

Cleaning 26

G

Garbage 16-17, 28

Gas system, 6, 13, 21 

Checking for leaks 5, 21 

Gas meter 6 

Turning off 5-6 

Turning on 21

Generators 4

Government assistance 32-34

Grants 33

Grass 28

Gypsum board, see Wallboard

H

Health precautions 1-3, 9

Humidity 15-16

Hurricanes 41, 46, 47 

References 50

Index
55

Repairing Your Flooded Home

O

Oil, see Gas system

Outlets, see Electrical system

Outreach programs 1-2

P

Paint 40-41

Paneling 20, 41

Permit, building 35, 38-39

Pets, see Animals

Photographs 7, 28

Plan for recovery 11-14

Plants 29

Plaster 6, 17, 18, 19

Plywood 17-18, 40, 41, 47 

See also Wood, Floors, 

Paneling, Windows

Power, see Electrical system

Prescriptions 48

Proof of Loss 12, 31-32

Propane, see Gas system

R

Rebuilding, see repairs

Records 11-12, 16, 28, 46

Recovery plan 11-14

Regulations, see Building code

Red Cross, see American Red 

Cross

References 50-53

Repairs 35-43 

Temporary 7-8

Roof 8

Rugs, see Carpet

S

Safety checklist 6

Sandbags 49

Septic system 24

Sewage disposal 24

Sheetrock, see wallpaper

Stress 1-2

Structural damage 12, 38

Substantially damaged, 

definition 38

I

Income tax 11, 33

Information sources of 50-53

Insulation 17, 18, 19, 20, 40, 41

Insurance 

Agent 11, 16 

See also Adjuster 

Coverage 11 

Flood 7-8, 21, 31-32, 44-46 

Homeowner’s 11 

Wind and hail 11

Inventory 12, 46, 48

K

Kitchen ware 27

L

Lawn 28

Leather cleaning 13, 27

Levee 37, 49

Lights, see Electrical system, 

Appliances

Linoleum 41 

See also Flooring

Loans, disaster 30, 33

LP gas, see Gas system

M

Mattresses 16

Medicine 16, 48

Mildew 7, 15, 16, 25, 26, 27 

Mildew-resistant paint 40

Mobile (manufactured) home 44, 

45

Mold, see Mildew Mortgage holder 13, 32, 38

Mosquitoes 28

Moth crystals 28

Mud 5, 7, 9-10, 15, 17, 20, 22, 

27, 28-29

N

National Flood Insurance 

Program, 44-46

T

Tile 20, 40

Toys 2, 16

Trash, see Garbage

U

Unheated. See Winterizing

Utilities. See also Electrical system,

Gas system, Water supply 

Restoring 21-24

V

Valuables 7

Video 11, 16, 46 

Camera 5

Volunteer organizations 30

W

Walls 7, 8, 12, 13, 17, 41 

Basement 8-9, 45 

Drying 13, 17, 18, 19 

Cleaning 10, 25, 40 

Protecting 37 

References 51

Wall covering 19, 41

Wallboard 6, 7 13, 15, 17, 18, 

19, 40, 41 

Cleaning 25

Wallpaper, see Wall covering

Warnings 46, 47, 49

Water, drinking 3, 5, 8, 23-24

Water alarm 46

Water heater 21, 24, 38, 39

Waterproofing 37, 39, 41

Water supply 8, 10, 23-24

Well water 24, 47-48

Windows 8 

Cleaning 25

Winterizing 24

Wires, wiring, see Electrical 

system

Wood 16, 17-18, 26, 39, 40 

See also Walls, Floors, Furniture,

Cabinets
Repairing Your Flooded Home

Important Numbers

Police Insurance Agent

Homeowner’s Insurance Policy

Company

Number

Flood Insurance Policy

Company

Number

Wind and/or Hail Insurance Policy

Company

Number

Fire

Ambulance

Emergency Management Office

Neighbors

American Red Cross

Power Company

Gas Company

Water

Health Department

Poison Control Center

Lumber Companies

Cooperative Extension Service

Hardware Stores

Disaster Hotline (announced if there is a federal disaster

declaration)
FLOOD SAFETY

Do not walk through flowing water. Drowning is the number one cause

of flood deaths. Most of these drownings occur during flash floods. Six inches

of moving water can knock you off your feet. Use a pole or stick to make sure

that the ground is still there before you go through an area where the water is

not flowing.

Do not drive through a flooded area. More people drown in their cars

than anywhere else. Don’t drive around road barriers; the road or bridge may

be washed out.

Stay away from power lines and electrical wires. Electrocution is

also a major killer in floods. Electrical current can travel through water. Report

downed power lines to your utility company or local emergency manager.

Turn off your electricity when you return home. Follow the instructions in Step 2. Some appliances, such as television sets, can shock you even

after they have been unplugged. Don’t use appliances or motors that have gotten wet unless they have been taken apart, cleaned, and dried.

Watch for animals, especially snakes. Small animals that have been

flooded out of their homes may shelter in yours. Use a pole or stick to seek

poke and turn items over and scare away small animals.

Look before you step. After a flood, the ground and floors are covered with

debris including broken bottles and nails. Floors and stairs that have been covered with mud can be very slippery.

Be alert for gas leaks. Use a flashlight to inspect for damage. Don’t

smoke or use candles, lanterns, or open flames unless you are sure that the gas

has been turned off and the area has been aired out.Carbon monoxide exhaust

kills. Use a generator or other gasoline-powered machine outdoors. The same

goes for camping stoves. Fumes from charcoal are especially deadly-cook with

charcoal only outdoors.

Clean everything that got wet. Floodwaters have picked up sewage and

chemicals from roads, farms, factories, and storage buildings. Spoiled food and

flooded cosmetics and medicines are health hazards. When in doubt throw

them out.

Take good care of yourself. Recovering from a flood is a big job. It is

tough on both the body and the spirit. And the effects a disaster has on you

and your family may last a long time. Read Step 1 on how to recognize and

care for anxiety, stress, and fatigue.

Issued in furtherance of the International Decade

for Natural Disaster Reduction. 

ARC 4476

FEMA L-198

Aug. 1992