Approved Code No. 15-Amendment No.2 

Approved Code No. 118-Amendment No. 1 

Registry No. 216--1-06 

Registry No. 217-1-06 

NATIONAL RECOVERY ADMINISTRATION 

AMENDMENTS TO 

CODES OF FAIR COMPETITION 

FOR TUE 

MEN'S CLOTHING INDUSTRY 

AND 

COTTON GARMENT INDUSTRY 

AS APPROVED ON DECEMBER 18, 1933 

BY 

PRESIDENT ROOSEVELT 

WE DO OUR PART 

1. Executive Order 

2. Letter of Transmittal 

UNITED STATES 

GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE 

WASHINGTON : 1933 

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(II) 
Approved Code No. 15-Amendment No. 2 

Approved Code No. 118-Amendment No. 1 

AMENDMENTS TO 

CODE OF FAIR COMPETITION 

FOR THE 

MEN'S CLOTHING INDUSTRY AND COTTON 

GARMENT INDUSTRY 

As Approved on December 18, 1933 

BY 

PRESIDENT ROOSEVELT 

Executive Order 

A. A Code of Fair Competition for the Men's Clothing Industry 

was approved by me on August 26, 1933. A public hearing having 

been held by the Administrator on due notice, with respect to certain 

amendments to the said code, the Administrator having recommended 

the modification of my approval of said code accordingly, the 

amendments being as follows: 

1. That the first paragraph of article I of the code be amended 

to read as follows : 

"The term 'Clothing Industry' as used herein is defined to mean 

the manufacture of men's, boys', and children's clothing, uniforms, 

single knee pants, single pants (except work pants or single pants 

when made in work-clothing factories) , and men's summer clothing 

(except men's wash suits of one hundred percent (100 % ) cotton content when made in work-clothing factories in conjunction with work 

clothing)." 

2. That the second paragraph of article II of the said code be 

deleted, which paragraph reads as follows: 

"The minimum wage paid by employers to employees working on 

single-knee pants shall be at the rate of thirty-seven cents (37 ) per 

hour." 

3. That there be substituted for the above paragraph the following: 

"The minimum wage paid by employers to employees working on 

single-knee pants and/ or single pants shall be at the rate of thirtyfour cents (34¢) per hour when employed in the southern section of 

the industry, and thirty-seven cents (37¢) per hour when employed 

in the northern section of the industry." 

27648°----296-13----33 (1) 
2 

4. That the following paragraph be added to article II, which shall 

be the third paragraph of said article: 

"The minimum wage paid by employers to en'lployees working 

on men's wash suits of one hundred percent (100%) cotton content, 

shall be at the rate of thirty-four cents (34¢) per hour in the southern 

section of the industry, and thirty-seven cents (37 ¢) per hour in the 

northern section of the industry; the minimum wage paid by employers to employees working on men's summer clothing (other than 

men's \\'"ash suits of one hundred percent (100% ) cotton content) 

shall be at the rate of thirty-seven cents (37¢) per 'hour in the 

southern section of the industry, and forty cents ( 40¢) per honr in 

th.e northern section of the industry." 

5. That paragraph (a) of article II be amended to read as follows: " On and after the effective date, the minimum wage which shall 

be paid to cutters shall be at the rate of one dollar ($1.00) per hour, 

and the minimum wage which shall be paid to off-pressers shall be 

at the rate of seventy-five cents (75¢) per hour; except that in the 

southern section of the industry the nlini1num wage which shall be 

paid to cutters of all ITLen s wash suits and/or summer clothing 

shall be · at the rate of eio·hty-five cents (85¢) per hour, and the 

minimum wage which shall be paid to off-pressers of such garments 

sh-all be at the rate of sixty cents (60¢) per hour." 

B. A Code of Fair Com.petition for the Cotton Garment Industry 

was approved by me on November 17, 1933. A public hearing having 

been held by the Administrator on due notice, pursuant to the second 

paragraph of section A of article II of the said code, which paragraph reads as follows: 

"The products cover.ed by section A, paragraphs 8, 10, and 14 

are included in this eode pending the prompt holding of such further hearing on such noti-ce as the Adnlinistrator in his discretion 

may fix, and the final determination of whether the definitions of 

any of them shall be modified or eliminated or whether any of the 

subdivisions shall continue to be included in this code." 

Paragraphs 10 and 14, to which the foregoing refers, include: 

"(10) men's and boys' pants in chief content of cotton;" "(14) men's 

cotton wash suits~" 

The Administrator having rendered his report together with his 

recommendatim'ls and findings with respect to the following amendment to the said code: 

That section A of article II be a1nencled to read as follows : 

"As used in this code the term ' Cotton Garment Industry ' 1neans 

and includes the production by any of the following processes: (a) 

cutting, (b) creasing, (c) sewing (all or part of the garment), (d) 

trimming, (e) pressing, (f) finishing, (g) examining and inspecting, 

(h) boxing, or all of them, of any article or garment known as (1) 

work clothing, work garments, work pants, and children's play 

suits; (2) men's shirts, including knitted outer shirts and polo 

shirts; (3) boys'shirtsandblouses; (4) boys' wash suits; (5) work 

shirts of any material, including flannel shirts; (6) pajamas and 

nightshirts; (7) men's collars; ( 8) cotton wash dresses; (9) oiled 

cotton garments; ( 10) n'len's and boys' pants, when made in work 

clothing factories; (11) sheep lined and leather garments; (12) 

nurses' and maids' aprons and uniforms; (13) washable seTvice ap-
pare!; (14) men's wash suits of one hundred percent (100% ) cotton 

content, when made in work-clothing factories in conjunction with 

work clothing." 

NOW, THEREFORE, I , Franklin D. Roo evelt, President of the 

United States, pursuant to the authority vested in me by title I of 

the National Industrial Recovery Act, approved June 16, 1933, and 

otherwise, do approve the foregoing amendments, on the following 

conditions: 

1. That no ,manufacturing employee engaged in the production of 

men's wash suits of one hundred percent (100 % ) cotton content 

and/ or men's and boys' pants when either of the foregoing is made 

in work clothing factories in conjunction with work clothing or 

work pants, shall be paid at less than the rate of thirty-four cents 

(34¢) per hour in the southern section of the industry, or less than 

thirty -seven cents ( 37¢) per hour in the northern section of the 

industry. 

2. It is hereby ordered that an Inter-Code committee of seven (7) 

persons shall be appointed by the Administrator, three (3) of whom 

shall be chosen from the Cotton Garment Industry, with the advice 

of the chairman of its Code Authority, and three (3) of whom shall 

be chosen from the Men's Clothing Industry, with the advice of the 

chairman of its Code Authority, and the seventh (7th) member shall 

be chairman of the said committee. The committee is hereby authorized to administer and supervise enforcement in respect of cotton 

wash suits and/ or single pants. The said committee, may, on its 

own initiative, or upon reference by either Code Authority concerned, recommend to the Administrator, changes in maximum 

hours or differentials or changes in the minimum wage to be paid 

employees engaged in the production of single pants and/ or cotton 

wash suits, and issue interpretations of this order with respect to 

such garments. All questions arising from the operation of this 

Order shall be referred to the Inter-Code Committee for determination. Interpretations or determ.inations made by the said committee 

shall be subject to an appeal to the Administrator. 

On or before June 30, 1934, the Inter-Code Committee shall report to the two Code Authorities concerned, and to the Administrator, as to whether these provisions should be changed or modified by 

the Administrator. 

The Administrator shall arrange with the two Code Authorities 

for an equitable basis of contribution to cover the necessary expenditures for administration by the Inter-Code Committee. 

It is hereby ordered that the final approval of the Code of Fair 

Competition for the Men's Clothing Industry~ contained in my Executive order, dated August 26, 1933, and that the final approval of the 

Code of Fair Competition for the Cotton Garment Industry, contained in my Executive order, dated No' ember 17, 1933, shall be 

modified to the foregoing effect on and after January 2, 1934. 

FRANKLIN D. ROOSEVELT. 

Approval recommended: 

HuGHS. JoH soN, 

Adndnistrator. 

THE \V IIITE HousE, 

Dece1nbeT 18, 1933. 
DECEMBER 12, 1~33. 

The PRESIDENT 

The White House. 

Srn: The Cotton Garment Code includes in its definitions (Article II, Section A, Subdivisions 1, 10, and 14), "work clothing, work 

garments, work pants, and children's play suits", "Men's and boys' 

pants in chief content of cotton", and "men's cotton wash suits." 

They were so included subject to a final detennination by the Actmin.-

istrator of whether the definitions "shall be modified or ... shall 

continue to be included in this Code." The Men's Clothing Code 

includes as a part of its definition of the Industry," single knee pHnts, 

single pants, and men's summer clothing ( exclu ive of cotton wash 

suits)." The Cotton Garment Code provides minimum wages of 

thirty cents (30¢) an hour for the South and thirty-two and one haJf 

cents (32¥2¢) an hour for the North, a maximum week of forty (40) 

hours, and no classified scales. The Men's Clothing Code provides 

minimum wages of thirty-seven cents (37¢) per hour in the South 

and forty cents ( 40¢) an hour in the North, a maximum week of 

thirty-six (36) hours, and classifications for cutters and off-pressers. 

A large part of the Cotton Garment Industry has grown up arour.d 

the manufacture of overalls and work clothing. These factories av~ 

added many lines of merchandise which could be made without changing their plant equipment, personnel, or organization. This results 

in greater continuity of employment. All these lines are sold largely · 

through the same channels of distribution. The South is R big 

market for this merchandise. 

Single pants and cotton wash suits constitute an important part 

of such lines. vVhat were formerly work pants, through developments of materials became rather extensively used for sport and 

dress purposes. The men's wash suits made in \YOrk clothing factories are mostly of the seersucker type. These are distributed 

in competition with lines of single pants and ummer clothing 

made in the Men's Clothing Industry. 

Until a few years ago the competition between these industries 

on these lines was not serious. Recently the trend of fashion and the 

downward trend of prices have brought them into sharp competition. 

During the past two seasons the competition has been unusually 

severe. 

The Men's Clothing manufacturers believe that their business is 

very seriously threatened by the difference in wages, hours, and 

classifications provided in the two Codes, so serious in fact that 

right at the present moment the single pants manufacturers working 

under the Clothing Code are said to be organizing a " shut-down " 

until the competitive situation accentuated in the two Codes could 

be straightened out. 

The difficulties in definitions were clearly set forth in the Administrator's report submitting the Clothing Code and the Cotton 

(4) 
5 

Garment Code to the Pre ident for his approval. l\1any hearings 

and conferences have been held, the last hearings being held on 

Monday and Tuesday, November 27 and 28. Successive conferences 

failed to produce an agreement, and it became necessary to leave 

the matter for letermination by the Administrator, a provided in 

the Cotton Garment Code. In the various conferences it was concede 1 by all parties that work pants should be made under the provi ions of the Cotton Garment Code and that pants which are part 

of men's suits, and separate pants made of wool for dress use should 

be made under the provision of the Men's Clothing Code. Between 

these two extremes there were irreconciliable differences regarding 

definitions. 

All parties were in agreement upon the desirability of avoiding 

jurisdiction by both Code Authorities in one factory. 

vVith particular reference to summer clothing and men's wash 

suits, the l\1en's Clothing manufacturers claimed protection against 

unfair competition, and a break-down of their standards from the 

sale of mens cotton wash suits under the Cotton Garment Code. 

After hearings held on September 26 and 27 conferences were held, 

which resulted in an agreement between the New Orleans manufacturers and others representing a substantial part of the industry 

making wash suits. This agreement was put in the form of a 

recommendation by the Administrator for an Executive Order making the necessary amendments to include the manufacture of wash 

suits as a part of the Men's Clothing Industry. The submission of 

these recommendations was held pending final action on the Cotton 

Garment Code. Durin()' the final conterences preceding the submission and adoption of this Code, representatives of the ''ork cloth- ing factories who manufacture and distribute inexpensi Ye cotton 

wash suits, principally of the seersucker type, claimed that they 

were not bound by the agreement entered into by the New Orleans 

manufacturers. The definition of men's wash suits was included in 

the Cotton Garment Code subject to a later hearing and final determination by the Administrator, as explained above. Hearings and 

various conferences were held on November 27, at which all parties 

were asked to show cause why the agreement entered into in September should not be made effective through the proper amendments to 

the Clothing and Cotton Garment Codes: 

With reference to single pants it is my conclusion that: 

1. Work pants as included in Subdivision 1, Paragraph A, of 

Article II, covers a field of n1erchandise not in competition with the 

Men's Clothing Industry, and can be defined for the purposes of 

administration. 

2. There are lines of one hundred percent (100%) cotton trousers 

manufactured in work clothing factories, which are used in substantial quantities for sport and dress occasions and do constitute an 

important factor of competition with trou ers now made as a part 

of the Men's Clothing Indu try. Manufacturers should be allowed 

to continue manufacture under both Codes, with an increased minimum in the Cotton Garment Code which will, in effect, operate to 

reduce the difference in minima between the two Codes. 

3. With the exception of certain very cheap materials used for 

the manufacture of work clothing, trousers made of wool and woolen 
6 

mixtur s should largely be r served for manufacture under the 

Men's Clothing Code, but that where made in Cotton Garment factories, should be made under an increased minimum. 

With reference to men's cotton wash suits, it is my conclusion 

that: 

1. Wash suits made from linens, Palm Beaches and similar materials are competitive with summer clothing made in the .Men's 

Clothing Industry, and should be produced under the provisions of 

that Code. 

2. Men's wash suits of one hundred percent (100%) cotton content, 

particularly of the better grades, do compete with other summer 

clothing, and the minima in the two Codes should be equalized. Such 

wash suits manufactured in work clothing factories and in conjunction with work clothing are generally so low in price as to constitute 

a less important factor of competition, and should be allowed to be 

m~d.e under the provisions of the Cotton Garment Code, with a higher 

IDll1lmUm. 

3. That the products of the New Orleans manufacturers are in 

substantial competition with summer clothing produced in Men's 

Clothing factories, and that no controlling reason was shown why 

the agreement entered into by the representatives of the New Orleans 

and other manufacturers, with representatives of the Men's Clothing Industry, should not stand substantially as covered in the pending recommendations of Deputy Administrator Lindsay Rogers. 

N OTE.-Recommended amendments carry a slight modification of 

rates in the interest of simplification of rates in the same factory. 

It is recommended that the necessary amendments be made to the 

Codes of Fair Competition for the Men's Clothing Industry and the 

Cotton Garment Industry which will in effect provide: 

1. That work pants as defined and interpreted by the Inter-Code 

Committee shall be produced under the wage and hour provisions now 

provided in the Cotton Garment Code. 

2. All other single pants should be allowed to be made under 

the terms of both Codes ; at a minimum hourly wage of thirty-four 

cents (34¢) in the South and thirty-seven cents (37¢) in the North. 

3. That men's wash suits of one hundred percent (100% ) cotton 

content, when made in work clothing factories in conjunction with 

work clothing, may be made nnder the Cotton Garment Code, subject to a minimum of thirty-four cents (34¢) an hour in the South 

and thirty-seven cents (37¢) per hour in the North. 

4. That all wash suits, other than men's wash suits of one hundred 

percent (100% ) cotton content when made in work clothing factories in conjunction with work clothing, be made under the provisions of the Men's Clothing Code, provided (a) that this Code 

carry a special n1.inimum of thirty-four cents (34¢) per hour in 

the South and thirty- even cents (37¢) per hour in the North for 

men's wash suits of one hundred percent (100% ) cotton content, 

(b) That a minimum of thjrty-seven cents (37¢) per hour in the 

South and forty cents ( 40¢) per hour in the North be provided for 

men's wash suits made of material other than one hundred percent 

(100% ) cotton, and (c ) That there be lower differentials for cutters 

and off-pressers engaged in the manufacture of wash suits made in 

Clothing factories in the South. 
7 

For Administration I recon1mend an Inter-Cole committee be 

appointed by the Administrator to observe the effects of ompetition 

between the manufacturers of single pants and men's wash suits 

operating under the two Codes, with authority to super vise enforcement, make interpretations, and stu 1y the need for redefinitions 

necessary to establish and maintain fair competitive conditions. 

The expense of the administration for this committee should be 

arratl'g<ed by the two Code Authorities, and labels should be required for all single pants (other than work pants), and wash 

clothing 'made under both Codes, as a means of enforcement. 

On or before June 30, 1934, the Inter-Code Committee should 

be required to report to the two Code Authorities with recomn1endations as to whether these amendments to the Codes should be 

continued or modified. 

In accordance with the above, the approYal of the attached 

Executive Order is recommended. 

Respectfully, 

Approved Code No. 15-Amendment No. 2. 

Registry No. 216-1-06. 

Approved Code No. 118-Amendment No. 1. 

Registry No. 217-1-06. 

0 

H uoH S. JoHNSON, 

Administrator. 
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