UNIVERSITY OF FLORIDA 

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3 1262 08486 7521 

J.OJJo-n. Regigtry No. 215-1-10 

NATIONAL RECOVERY ADMINISTRATION 

CODE OF FAIR C·OMPETITION 

FOR THE 

COAT AND SUIT INDUSTRY 

' ,. .... 

AS SUBMITTED ON JULY 13, 1933, AND 

AS APPROVED ON AUGUST 4, 1933 

BY 

PRESIDENT ROOSEVELT 

0 -

I. Executive Order 

2. Text of the Code as Approved 

UNITED STATES / 

GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE } / 

WASHINGTON : 1933 

For sale by the Superintendent of Documents, W.1shington, D.C. - - - - - - Price 5 cents 

I 

EXECUTIVE ORDER 

CODE OF FAIR COMPETITION 

COAT AND SUIT INDUSTRY 

An application having been duly made, pursuant to and in full ·compliance with the provisions of Title I of the National Industrial 

Recovery Act, approved June 16, 1933, for my approval of a Code of ·Fair Competition for the Coat and Suit Industry, and hearings having 

been held thereon, and the Administrator having rendered his report 

containing an analysis of the said Code of Fair Competition, together 

with his recommendations and findings with respect thereto, and the 

Administrator having found that the sa!d Code oi Fair Competition 

complies in all respects with the pertinent provisions of Title I of 

said Act and that the requirements of clauses (1) and (2) of subsection 

(a) of Section 3 of the said Act have been met: 

Now, THEREFORE, I, Franklin D . Roosevelt, President of the 

United States, pursuant to tlte authority vested in me by Title I of 

the National Industrjal Recovery Act, approved June 16, 1933, and 

otherwise, do adopt and approve the report, recommendations, and 

:findings of the Administrator and do order that the said Code of F air 

Competition be and it is hereby approved. 

THE WRITE HousE, 

August 4, 1933 . . Approval Recommended: .HuGHS. JoHNSON, 

Administrator. 

~67-1 -3 3 

FRANKLIN D . ROOSEVELT. 

(1) 
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1

CODE OF FAIR COMPETITION FOR THE COAT AND SUIT 

INDUSTRY 

SUBMITTED BY 

AMERICAN CLOAK AND SUIT MANUFACTURERS ASSOCIATION, INC., 

INDUSTRIAL COUNCIL OF CLOAK, SUIT, AND SHIRT MANUFACTURERS, INC., AND MERCHANTS LADIES GARMENT ASSOCIATION, -INC. 

pART I-LABOR 

To effectuate the policy of Title I of the National Industrial Recovery Act, during the period of the emergency, by reducing andre-

-lieving unemployment, improving the standards of labor, eliminating 

competitive practices destructive of the interests of the public, employees and employers and otherwise rehabilitating the coat and suit 

industry, the following provisions are established as a code of fair 

.competition for the coat and suit industry: 

FIRST--DEFINITIONS 

The term "effective date" as used herein is defined to be the first 

Monday following the approval of this code by the President. 

The tern1 "persons" as used herein shall include natural persons , 

_partnerships, associations, and corporations. 

The term "employer" as used herein shall include every person 

(whether individual, partnership, a sociation, or corporation) engaged in the production and/ or wholesale distribution of coats and 

suits, as contractor, sub-contractor, manufacturer, submanufacturer, 

wholesaler, or jobber. 

The term "manufacturing employee" as used herein is defined to 

mean one who is engaged in the cutting, rnachine operating, handsewing, pressing, basting, examining, sample making, finishing, 

draping, pinning, busheling, grading, or any other hand or machine 

operation upon garments in any factory in the coat and suit industry. 

The term "nonmanufacturing employee" as used herein is defined 

to mean all persons engaged in the coat and suit industry not included 

in any of the above classifications. 

The term "coat and suit industry" as used herein is defined to 

include the manufacture and/or wholesale distribution of women's, 

misses', children's, and infants' coats, jackets, capes, wraps, riding 

habits, knickers, suits, ensembles, and skirts, in whole or in part, 

made of woolen, silk (only when made into tailored garments), velvet, 

plush, and other woven or purchased knitted materials. In such 

instances where a single concern is engaged in the manufacture and/or 

wholesale distribution of such commodities as well as the manufacture and/or wholesale distribution of other commodities not described 

above, such concerns will be deemed a part of the coat and suit 

industry to the extent of that portion of their business that lies in 

the field herein defined. 
4 

For the purposes of administration two areas have been established:- the Eastern Area shall include the states of Maine, New Hampshire, 

Vermont, Massachusetts, Rhode Island, Connecticut, New York, 

Pennsylvania, New Jersey, Delaware, and Maryland; the Western 

Area shall include all parts of the U.S.A. not included in the Eastern 

Area. The Baltimore market is included in the Eastern Area with 

the provision that the employers association therein may request the 

appointment of a Commission by the Administrator to determine 

after investigation what modifications should be granted, if any. 

SECOND 

On and after the effective date, employers in the coat and suit 

industry shall not employ as manufacturing employees any persons 

under the age of eighteen (18) years, and as nonmanufacturing 

employees any persons under the age of sixteen (16) years. 

THIRD 

On and after the effective date, employers in the coat and suit' 

industry shall not operate on a schedule of hours of labor for their· employees, except clerical and service employees working in office 

and shipping departments, in excess of thirty-five (35) hours per week. 

Such work shall be divided into five (5) working days, the working 

hours to be from 8:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. with one hour intervalfor· lunch. N onmanufacturing employees shall not work in excess of 

forty (40) hours per week. There shall be no more than one shift of 

workers in any day. No overtime is permitted except that the 

Administrator may grant an extension of hours in the busy season 

when and if, in his judgment, labor in the industry is fully employed. and conditions make such an order advisable. 

This provision shall apply to any individual who may do the work 

of a manufacturing employee as defined herein. 

No home work shall be allowed and no work shall be done or permitted in tenement houses, basements or in any unsanitary buildings 

or buildings unsafe on account of fire risks. 

FOURTH 

On and after the effective date, the basic minimum wage that shall 

be paid by employers in the coat and suit industry to any of their: 

non-manufacturing employees shall be at the rate of $14 per week .. 

FIFTH 

Eastern Area.-On and after the effective date, manufacturing em-. 

ployees, for the Eastern Area, enumerated below, shall be paid not 

less than the following mininmm wage scale, for each full week's. 

work: Per week 

Coat and Suit Cutter_ ___ _____ _____ ______ ____ _____ ___ _____________ $47.00 

Samplemakers _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ 40. 00 

Examiners_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ 36. 00 

Drapers ____________________________________ ____________________ . 29. 00 

Begraders on skirts_______ ______________ __________________________ 3-2. 00· 

Bushelmen who also do Pinning, Marking, and general work on gar- ments _____ _____ _________________ ____ _______________________ -~ 3.6._ 0.0, 
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The employers in the crafts enumerated below shall work on a 

piece rate basis. They shall receive guaranteed minimum wages, 

not less than the following: Per hour 

Jacket, Coat, Reefer & Dress Operators, Male ______ ______ __________ __ $1. 00 

Jacket, Coat, Reefer & Dress Operators, Female ____ ____ ___________ ___ . 90 

Skirt Operators, Male__ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ . 90 

Skirt Operators, Female_ __ ____________________ __ __ ____ _______ ______ . 80 

Piece Tailors_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ . 90 

Reefer, Jacket, and Coat Finishers__ _____________________ ______ ___ __ . 85 

Jacket, Coat & Reefer Finishers' Helpers___ ______________ __ __ ________ . 63 

Jacket, Coat, Reefer & Dress Upper Pressers __ _____________ __ __ _____ _ 1. 00 

Jacket, Coat, Reefer & Dress Under Pressers___ _________ _____________ . 90 

Skirt Upper Pressers_ _____ __ ____ ______ ___________ ___________ _______ . 90 

Skirt Under Pressers_____ __________________ ______________ __ ________ . 85 

Skirt Basters _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ . 60 

Skirt Finishers_______________ ____ ______ ______ _____ ___ ____ __ ______ _ . 60 

Machine Pressers_ : _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ 1. 30 

All manufacturers in the Eastern Area operating outside the limits 

of New York and Philadelphia shall operate on a scale ten (1 0) percent less than provided herein for the Eastern Area. 

In fixing piece work rates on garments, the same shall be computed 

on a basis to yield to the worker of average skill of the various crafts 

for each hour of continuous work, the following amounts: 

Per hour 

Jacket, Coat, Reefer & Dress Operators ______________________________ $1. 50 

Skirt Opera tors_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ 1. 40 

Piece Tailors_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ 1. 30 

Reefer, Jacket and Coat Finishers___________________________________ 1. 25 

Jacket, Coat & Reefer Finishers Helpers _______________________ ______ 1. 00 

Jacket, Coat & Reefer & Dress upper Pressers________________________ 1. 35 

Jacket, Coat, Reefer & Dress under Pressers ______________ ___________ 1. 25 

Skirt Upper Pressers ____________________________________________ - _ 1. 25 

Skirt Under Pressers _____ ----------------------------------- -~ ---- 1. 25 Skirt Basters _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ . 80 

Skirt Finishers__________________________ ____________ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ . 70 

Machine Pressers_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ 1. 80 

Western Area.-On and after the effective date, manufacturing 

employees, for the Western Area, enumerated below, shall be paid 

not less than the following minimum wage scale, for each full week's 

work: 

Coat and Suit Cutters ___________________________________________ _ 

Semi-skilled Cutters _____________________________________________ _ Clothing and Lining Pilers _______________________________________ _ Pilers __________________________________________________________ _ 

Canvas Cutters-------------------------------------------------- Apprentice Cutters for six months ________________________________ _ Sample Makers _________________________________________________ _ 

Examiners-------------------------------------------------------

Per week 

$41. 00 

39.00 

33. 00 

28.00 

26.00 

22.00 

40. 00 

32. 50 

The employees in the crafts enumerated below shall work on a piecerate basis. They shall receive guaranteed minimum wages, not less 

than the following: 

Male, per hour 

Jacket, Coat, Reefer & Dress Operators______________________________ $. 85 

Skirt Operator____________________________________________________ . 75 

Jacket, Coat, Reefer and Dress Upper Pressers_______________________ . 85 

Jacket, Coat, Reefers and Dress Under Pressers _____________________ .. . 77 

Jacket, Coat, Reefer and Dress Part Pressers_________________________ . 65 

Jacket, Coat, Reefer Finishers______________________________________ . 75 

Apprentices in the above classifications for a period not exceeding six 

months___________________________________________ _____________ . 60 
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Female, per hour 

Jacket, Coat, Reefer and Dress Operators ____________________________ $0. 75 

Jacket, Coat, Reefer and Dress Operators (semi-skilled)_______________ . 62 

Skirt Operators___________________________________________________ . 70 

Lining Ironers ________________________________________________ ~-__ . 60 

Jacket, Coat, Reefer and Dress Finishers____________________________ . 63 

Jacket, Coat, Reefer Finisher's Helpers______________________________ . 53 

Jacket, Coat, Reefer, Skirt Buttonsewers_______________ __ ____________ . 53 

Apprentices in the above classifications for a period not exceeding six 

months __ _____ ___ --------------------------------------------- . 47 

In fixing piece-work rates on garments, the same shall be computed 

on basis to yield to the worker of average skill of the various crafts for 

each hour of continuous work the following amounts: 

lvlale, per hou 

Jacket, Coat, Reefer, and Dress Operators ___________________________ $1.26 

Skirt Opera tor ___ __ ____ __ ___ ___ _______________________ -.- _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ 1. 15 

Jacket, Coat, Reefer, and Dress Upper Pressers____ ___________________ 1. 26 

Jacket, Coat, Reefer, and Dress Under Pressers______________ ____ _____ 1. 15 

Jacket, Coat, Reefer, and Dress Part Pressers_________________________ . 92 

Jacket, Coat, and Reefer Finishers__ _____ _____ ____ __________________ 1. 10 

Female, per hour 

Jacket, Coat, Reefer, and Dress Operators _____ ___ _____ ___ __________ __ $0. 95 

Jacket, Coat, Reefer, and Dress Operators (semiskilled)_________________ . 88 

Skirt Opera tors_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ . 90 

Lining Ironers__ ___ ___________ ____ _____ ___________________________ . 82 

Jacket, Coat, Reefer, and Dress Finishers_____________________________ . 84 

Jacket, Coat, Reefer Finishers' Helpers______________________________ . 70 

Jacket, Coat, Reefer, Skirt Buttonsewers ___________________ :... _________ . 70 

The Western Area shall operate on the basis of the present existing 

classifications subject to further ·study by the Coat and Suit Code 

Authority who will make recommendations to the Administrator 

for such changes as will eliminate such competitive irregularities as 

may be fou'nd to exist. 

Both Areas.-Compensation for employment now in excess of the 

minimum wage set "forth herein shall not be reduced, notwithstanding 

that the hours worked in such employment may be hereby reduced. 

SIXTH 

During the years 1924 and 1925, an unemployment insurance fund 

was established and existed in the coat and suit industry. It was 

discontinued because of the general disorganization of the industry. 

There is every hope and expectation on the part of the employers and 

employees that through the National Industrial Recovery Act steps 

may again be taken to put into active operation an unemployment 

insurance fund. Accordingly, such fund shall be resumed as soon as 

the enforcement of uniform labor standards and general stabilization 

have reached a point at which the provisions for payment of unemployment insurance contributions can be generally enforced throughout 

the industry. The time when the conditions in the industry shall have 

reached a point when such fund may be reestablished shall be determined by the Code Authority hereinafter mentioned and the Administrator. When it is reestablished, it shall be in accordance with such 

provisions as shall be determined upon by the said Code Authority 

and the Administrator. 
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SEVENTH 

Further to effectuate the provisions of this Code and to eliminate 

substandard and sweatshop conditions in the coat and suit industry, 

all garments manufactured or distributed shall bear an N.R.A. label, 

which shall be ·attached to every garment. It shall bear a registration number specially assigned to each employer in the industry and 

remain attached to such garment when placed on sale by the retail 

distributor. All employers, as herein defined, whether or not members of the associations herein mentioned, may apply to the Coat and 

Suit Code Authority for a permit to use the N.R.A. label, which permit to use the label shall be granted to them, but only if they comply 

with the standards set forth in this code. The Coat and Suit Code 

Authority hereinafter mentioned shall establish the appropriate machinery for the issuance of labels, inspection, examination, and superviRion of employers engaged in the industry of such garments. 

EIGHTH 

The responsibility for the administration and enforcement of this 

code shall be vested in a Coat and Suit Code Authority. 

This Coat and Suit Code Authority shall be constituted as follows: 

Two members selected from each of the three associations submitting this code; 

Two members selected by the International Ladies' Garment 

Workers Union; 

Two members selected collectively by the assoeiations in the 

Western Area. 

The Coat and Suit Code Authority is expressly authorized to 

deputize its representatives to do and perform such acts as may be 

necessary to carry into effect the provisions, purpose, and intent of 

this Code. 

The Coat and Suit Code Authority shall be empowered to consider 

and act upon the following recommendations: 

(a) Recommendations as to the requirement by the Administrator of such other and further reports from persons engaged in the 

Coat and Suit industry of statistical information and the keeping of 

uniform accounts as may be required to secure the proper observances 

of the Code and promote the proper balancing of production, distribution, and consumption and the stabilization of the industry and 

employment. 

(b) Recommendations for the setting up of a Service Bureau for 

engineering, accounting, credit, or any other purposes that may aid 

in the conditions of this emergency and the requirements of this Code. 

(c) Recommendations for the making of rules by the Administrator 

as to practices by persons engaged in the coat and suit industry as to 

methods and conditions of trading, the naming and reporting of 

prices which may be appropriate to a void discrimination, to promote 

the stabilization of the industry, to prevent and eliminate unfair and 

destructive prices and practices. 

(d) Recommendations for regulating the disposal of distress merchandise in a way that will secure the protection of the owners thereof 

and at the same time promote sound and stable conditions in the 

industry. 
8 

(e) Recommendations as to the making available to the suppliers 

of credit to those engaged in the industry all information regarding 

terms of and actual functioning of any or all of the provisions of the 

Code, the conditions of the industry and regarding the operations of ·any and all persons engaged in the industry and covered by this 

Code, to the end that during the period of the emergency available 

credit may be adapted to the needs of the coat and suit industry, 

considered as a whole, and to the needs of the small as well as of the 

large units. 

(f) Recommendations for dealing with any inequalities that may 

otherwise arise that may endanger the stability of the industry and/or 

production and employment. 

Such recommendations, when approved by the Administrator shall 

have the same force and effect as any other provision of this Code. 

The Coat and Suit Code Authority shall have power to examine all 

books of accounts and records of employers so far as necessary to 

ascertain whether they are observing the provisions of this Code, and 

all employers shall submit their books and records for such examination. 

The Coat and Suit Code Authority shall have power to appoint a 

director, a staff of accountants, and such other employees as may be 

required for the effective discharge of its functions. 

The expense of maintaining the Coat and Suit Code Authority shall 

be borne by the International Ladies' Garment Workers Union, the 

parties to this Code, and all other employers in the industry in such 

proportions and amounts and in such manner as may be determined 

by the Coat and Suit Code Authority. 

The Coat and Suit Code Authority shall proceed through subcommittees to evolve standards for size and quality, including shrinkage 

tolerance and color fastness and protection against piracy in styles, and 

shall report within three months after the taking effect of this Code, 

such standards to be effective three months thereafter. 

NINTH 

It is recognized that in the Eastern and Western Areas the methods 

employed to a very large extent in the production of garments in the 

coat and suit industry necessitate the employment of contractors and 

submanufacturers. Accordingly, all firms engaged in the coat and 

suit industry who cause their garments thus to be made by contractors 

and submanufacturers as aforesaid, shall designate the contractors 

actually required, shall confine and distribute their work equitably 

to and among them, and shall adhere to the payment of rates for 

such production in an amount sufficient to enable the contractor or 

submanufacturer to pay the employees the wages and earnings 

provided for in this Code, together "rith an allowance for the contractor's overhead. 

To insure the observance of this provision, the committee na1ned 

in this Code, together with the Administrator, shall formulate provisions to carry into effect the purpose and intent hereof. 
9 

TENTH 

Employers in the coat and suit industry shall comply with the 

requirements of the National Industrial Recovery Act as follows: 

(a) Employees sha.ll have the right to organize and bargain collectively through representatives of their own choosing, and shall 

be free from interference, restraint, or coercion of employers of labor, 

or their agents, in the designation of such representatives or in 

self-organization or in other concerted activities for the purpose of 

collective bargaining or other mutual aid or protection. 

(b) No employee and no one seeking employment shall be required, 

as a condition of employment, to join any company union or to refrain 

from joining, organizing, or assisting a labor organization of his own 

choosing; and • 

(c) Employers shall comply with the maximum hours of labor, 

minimum rates of pay, and other conditions of employment approved 

or prescribed by the President. 

ELEVENTH 

(a) This Code is not designed to promote monopolies and shall not 

be availed of for that purpose. 

(b) The provisions of this Code shall not be so interpreted or 

administered as to eliminate or oppress small enterprises or to 

discriminate against them. 

TWELFTH 

Wherever in this industry agreements between employers and 

employees arrived at by collective bargaining shall exist or shall 

come into existence hereafter, all the provisions of such agreements 

with reference to labor standards not prohibited by law and not 

inconsistent with NIRA shall be administered as though a part of 

this code. 

THIRTEENTH 

This Code and all the provisions thereof are expressly made subject 

to the right of the President, in accordance with the provision of 

Clause 10 (b) of the National Industrial Recovery Act, from time to 

time to cancel or modify any order, approval, license, rule, or regulation, issued under Title I of said Act, and specifically to the right of 

the President to cancel or modify his approval of this code or any 

conditions imposed by him upon his approval thereof. 

Such of the provisions of this Code as are not required to be 

included therein by the National Industrial Recovery Act may, 

with the approval of the President, be modified or eliminated as 

changes in circumstances or experience may indicate. It is contemplated that from time to time supplementary provisions to this 

Code or additional Codes will be submitted for approval of the 

President to prevent unfair competition in price and other unfair 

and destructive competitive practices and to effectuate the other 

purposes and policies of Title I of the N a tiona] Industrial Recovery 

Act consistent with the provisions hereof. 

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