Protecting Your 

Home And Property 

From Flood Damage 

Mitigation Ideas For Reducing Flood Loss 

October, 2010 

Mitigation ideas |	 	 	 iii 

table	of Contents
 

1	 After The Flood: Getting Back To Your Home Safely 1 

2 		 Drying Out Your Home After a Flood: The First Steps 4 

3 		 Cleaning Mold, Mildew and Bacteria 6 

4	 Obtaining a Building Permit 8 

5	 Selecting a Contractor 9 

6	 Tips For Repairing a Flood-Damaged House 10 

7	 Water-Resistant Building Materials 11 

8	 Mitigation Steps You Can Take 12
�

Relocating Your House 13
�

Elevating Your House 14
�

House Elevation Regulations 15
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Elevating a Structure with Crawlspace Foundation 16
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Elevating a Slab-on-Grade Wood Frame Structure 17
�

Elevating a Mobile Home 18
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Elevating an Electrical System 19
�

Elevating Electric Baseboard Heaters 20
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Elevating or Relocating the Electric Panel 21
�

Elevating or Relocating the Heating Plant 22
�

Suspending a Heating System 23
�

Elevating a Washer and Dryer 24
�

Relocating a Washer and Dryer 25
�

Elevating or Relocating a Water Heater 26
�

Elevating an Air Conditioning Compressor or Heat Pump 27
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Anchoring a Fuel Tank 28
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Improving Interior Wall Construction 29
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Pumping Out a Flooded Basement 30
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Sump Pumps 31
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iv 	 	| Contents 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Installing an Exterior Floodwall 32
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Installing an Interior Floodwall 33
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Installing an Exterior Foundation Drainage system 34
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Installing an Interior Foundation Drainage System 35
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Sealing Openings In Walls 36
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Installing a Backflow Valve 37
�

Installing a Floor Drain Plug 38
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9	 Landslides and Mudflows 39
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10	 The National Flood Insurance Program and Building in the Floodplain 42
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11	 Flood Insurance A Good Investment 44
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Mitigation ideas |	 	 	 1 

	 	 	 	 	 	 	 1	
 After the Flood: Getting Back to Your
 

Home Safely 

♦

♦

♦

A building that has been damaged by rising water can be 

a dangerous place. This will help you know what to look 

out for and how to protect yourself and your family. It will 

also tell you what you need to know about cleaning up 

and making your home safe to live in again. 

Watch Out for These Dangers: 

Never assume that a water-damaged house is safe. Going 

into a building that has been flooded, even after the water 

is gone, can present a wide variety of hazards that can 

cause injury, illness or even death. Do not allow children 

in the home after the flood or while it is being cleaned, 

inspected or repaired. 

♦ 	 Electrical♦hazards♦- Do not enter a flooded or wet 

building if the power is on. If any electrical circuits 

have gotten wet, get the power turned off at the main 

breaker or fuse box and leave it off until the electrical 

wiring or equipment has been inspected and repaired 

by a licensed electrician and approved by your local 

building inspector. 

♦ 	 Structural♦damage - Do not enter a building if the 

framing or foundation is damaged. Look carefully before you enter. Leave immediately if shifting or unusual 

noises signal a possible collapse of the building. Contact 

your local building inspector for a safety inspection. 

Hazardous♦materials - Dangerous materials that might 

be found in flooded homes include pesticides, fuel oil, 

gasoline, chemicals and other substances that might 

have been 

brought in or spilled by the flood. Damaged buildings 

may also contain asbestos and lead-based paint, which 

can cause health problems during cleanup. Practically 

any building material that is not obviously solid wood, 

metal, or glass could contain asbestos. Lead-based paint 

can be found pre-1978 housing and is still used in commercial and industrial buildings. 

Injuries - Falling objects, broken or damaged building components and slick surfaces can cause injuries, 

broken bones, and cuts. Lifting heavy objects can 

cause back and muscle strains (see “Stay safe while you 

work.”). 

Biological♦hazards - Bacteria, viruses, molds and 

mildew can cause illness when you breathe them in 

or take them into your body through your mouth or 

through a cut in the skin. Bacteria or viruses may be 

left indoors by floodwater, while mold and mildew 

may grow indoors after the floodwater has receded. 

•		 Bacteria and Viruses - If you accidentally get floodwater or the dirt it leaves behind into your mouth, 

you might develop gastrointestinal (digestive tract) 

illness. 
2 	 	| Protecting Your Home	and Property From Flood 	damage 	 	 	 	 	

•		 Mold and Mildew (Fungi) - Many building materials, furniture, carpet and other items that stay wet 

for more than 24 hours will grow mold. Mold colonies are the fuzzy or patchy white, green, brown or 

black growths that you will see on wallboard, wood 

furniture and cabinets, clothing, wall studs, and almost any other surface. Mold releases tiny particles 

into the air that can cause allergic illness like hay 

fever (coughing, sneezing, eye irritation), asthma 

symptoms, or other respiratory illness that can be 

serious. Some molds may also produce toxins that 

could cause other illnesses. We are exposed to mold 

every day, indoors and out, but mold contamination 

can be quite severe in a water-damaged building. 

The risk is greatest for people with allergies or 

asthma, and for the very old or very young. 

Stay Safe While You Work: 

♦ 	 Wear♦a♦hard♦hat♦and♦safety♦goggles when there is a 

danger of falling materials. 

♦ 	 Wear♦the♦right♦gloves to protect your hands from cuts 

or exposure to hazardous chemicals. 

♦ 	 Wear♦rubber♦boots♦or♦hard-soled♦boots, preferably 

with steel toes, when working and lifting. 

♦ 	 Wear♦a♦face♦mask. If you enter a flooded building, 

wear a dust mask or respirator to reduce your exposure 

to mold. At your hardware or home supply store, look 

for a mask with “NIOSH” approval and an N-95 rating. 

Both of these marks should be on the respirator and 

the container. Read and follow the instructions on the 

mask package. Remember that the masks are disposable 

and should be thrown away at the end of the day. 

♦ 	 Stay♦alert.♦Accidents happen when people are tired. 

Take the breaks you need, and drink plenty of fluids 

(bottled water, juice, soft drinks) to avoid dehydration. 

Never drink alcohol when you are working in a flooded 

building. 

♦ 	 Protect♦yourself♦from♦bacteria♦and♦viruses.♦To keep 

from getting sick, wear rubber gloves while working; 

do not eat, drink, or smoke in the house; and wash 

your hands frequently with soap. 

♦ 	 Wet♦down♦mold.♦Before you touch, move, or clean 

moldy or mildewed materials, wet the mold with a 

soapy solution from a spray bottle to prevent the mold 

from getting into the air. Do this even if the material 

is already wet because the mold probably won’t be wet. 

Remember that mold can still make you sick even after 

you have sprayed disinfectants to kill it. 

♦ 	 Be♦careful♦lifting. To avoid back injury when lifting 

or handling heavy loads like furniture or carpet, avoid 

lifting loads of more than 50 pounds per person. 

♦ 	 Get♦help. Before you disturb or remove materials that 

may be hazardous, take precautions to prevent exposure. If there is a noticeable chemical odor and/or a 

spilled container of a hazardous material in the building, ask your local health department or fire department for help. 

♦ 	 Be♦prepared.♦If you get a cut or a puncture wound that 

is exposed to floodwater or the dirt it leaves behind, 

see a doctor. Make sure your tetanus immunization is 

up-todate before you work on the house. Once immunized, adults should have a routine “booster” every ten 

years. 

Take These Steps: 

If a flooded building is to be safely reoccupied, it must 

be completely dry. Dirt and trash left by the flood must 

be removed from building materials and furnishings. 

Moldy or mildewed items must be completely cleaned and 

disinfected or must be thrown away. Otherwise mold and 

mildew will return and possibly cause health problems for 

you and your family later on. 

Before Going Back to Live in Your Home, Take the 

Following Steps: 

♦ 	 Get♦the♦mess♦out. Remove all floodwater, dirt, and 

debris left behind by the floodwater. 

♦ 	 Remove♦mold♦and♦mildew.♦Moldy or mildewed building materials should be thoroughly cleaned and dried 

or removed and replaced. Any materials or furnishings that soaked up water should be removed from the 

building. 

♦ 	 Check♦out♦the♦floors.♦Carpet and padding cannot be 

cleaned well enough to prevent mold and mildew from 

growing. Throw them away. Take out the flooring and 

sub-flooring if they cannot be completely cleaned and 

dried or if they have started to deteriorate. The remaining floor and/or subfloor must be dried out completely 

and disinfected. Make sure no moisture is trapped in 

or on the sub-floor. Sub-flooring made of particleboard 

or plywood should be removed and replaced because it 

can’t be completely dried and disinfected. Crawl spaces 

should also be cleaned out and dried. 

♦ 	 Dry♦out♦walls.♦Walls that were wet should be stripped 

to the studs and the insulation removed. Walls must remain open to allow them to completely dry. Other wall 

cavities should be inspected for visible mold growth. 

Any area inside a wall cavity with visible mold growth 

should be opened, cleaned, decontaminated and dried. 

The exterior of each building (siding, etc.) will need to 

be evaluated to see if any or all of the exterior materials 

should be removed. Plaster, brick and concrete block 
Mitigation ideas |	 	 	 3 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

walls can probably be cleaned, disinfected and completely dried. 

♦ 	 Check♦heating♦and♦AC♦systems. If the heating and airconditioning system or air ducts were flooded, use special care. The inside parts of heating and air-conditioning systems that contacted floodwater are hiding places 

for mold. If mold grows in the system, mold particles 

may get into the air and make people sick. The interior 

components (furnace, air-conditioner cooling coils, and 

fans) will need to be inspected, cleaned and decontaminated by professionals. Air registers (vents) and diffusers 

should be removed, cleaned, disinfected and reinstalled. 

Replace lined air ducts and ductboard that got wet. Unlined ductwork can be taken apart, washed, disinfected, 

dried, and put back together. Air duct cleaning services 

are not very effective in cleaning flooded air ducts and 

are only useful on bare sheet-metal ducts. 

♦ 	 Salvage♦what♦you♦can.♦Personal property and furnishings that are moist or wet 24 hours after floodwater 

recedes will have mold growing in or on them. Clothing 

and linens may be salvaged by washing with chlorine 

bleach and detergent, or sent to commercial laundries or 

dry cleaners. Upholstered furniture, mattresses, and furniture made of particleboard or wafer board should be 

thrown away. Get information on saving valuable papers, 

books, and photographs from the American Red Cross. 

♦ 	 Remove♦contaminants.♦Make sure that any chemical 

contamination and hazardous materials have been removed from the building. For proper disposal, contact 

your local waste disposal service. 

♦ 	 Make♦sure♦that♦all♦parts♦of♦the♦building♦are♦dry♦

before♦rebuilding♦or♦repairing.♦Mold will grow on 

replacement materials if the studs, subfloor or other 

building parts are not completely dry. The structure 

should be tested with a moisture meter before you start 

replacing the damaged parts of your home. 

Clean and Dry the Right Way: 

Nonporous materials (materials that don’t soak up water) 

and furnishings and other surfaces should be thoroughly 

cleaned, disinfected and allowed to dry completely. First, 

scrub all surfaces with soap and water and rinse well. 

(Scrubbing removes mold, mold spores, and the dirt that 

mold and mildew can grow on.) Then, disinfect everything. Liquid chlorine bleach should be used to disinfect 

and kill any remaining mold and mildew. Follow the 

instructions on the label and let the bleach solution remain 

on the surface for at least 15 minutes before rinsing and 

drying. After cleaning and disinfecting, you must completely dry each item or mold and mildew will return. To 

speed drying, keep fresh air circulating. 

You can get the document from your local health department or 

on the Internet at www.cdc.gov/niosh/flood.html 

For more information about flood cleanup and removing mold, 

ask your health department or a Red Cross volunteer for a copy 

of the Red Cross/FEMA 234 Document: “Repairing Your Flooded 

Home,” or look on the Internet at www.fema.gov/rebuild/recover/ 

resources.shtm 

The most important thing you can do to protect yourself is to use 

common sense and be aware of safety and health risks. Do not 

enter a building that is clearly unsafe. If you have questions or 

need assistance, contact your local health department or building inspections office. 
4 	 	| Protecting Your Home	and Property From Flood 	damage 	 	 	 	 	

	 	 	 	 	 	 		 2	
 	 	Drying Out Your Home After a Flood:
 

The First Steps 

Floodwaters Affect a House in 3 Ways: 

1.	� The water damages materials. Wallboard will disintegrate if it stays wet too long; wood can swell, warp, 

or rot; electrical parts can short out, malfunction, and 

cause fires or shock. 

2.	� Mud, silt, and unknown contaminants in the water not 

only get everything dirty; they are also unhealthy. 

3.	� Dampness promotes the growth of mildew, a mold or 

fungus that can grow on everything. 

The following steps will help you get started in dealing 

with these problems. Please do the steps in order. 

Lower the Humidity 

Everything will dry more quickly and clean more easily if 

you can reduce the humidity and stop the rot and mildew. 

♦ 	 Open♦up♦the♦house. If the humidity outside is lower 

than it is indoors, and if the weather permits, open all 

the doors and windows to exchange the moist indoor 

air for drier outdoor air. When temperatures drop at 

night, an open house is warmer and will draw moisture indoors. At night, and at other times when the 

humidity is higher outdoors, close up the house. 

♦	 Open♦closet♦and♦cabinet♦doors. Remove drawers to let 

air circulate. Drawers may stick because of swelling. 

Don’t try to force them. Help them dry by opening up 

the back of the cabinet so air can get into it. 

♦	 Use♦fans. Fans help to move the air and dry out your 

home. Do not use central air conditioning or the furnace blower if the ducts were under water. They will 

blow out dirty air that might contain contaminants. 

Clean or hose out the ducts first. 

♦	 Run♦dehumidifiers. Dehumidifiers help reduce the 

moisture, especially in closed-up areas. 

♦	 Use♦desiccants. Desiccants are materials that absorb 

moisture and can be used in drying closets or other 

closed areas where air cannot move through. Desiccants like those listed below are usually available at 

hardware, grocery, or drug stores: 

•		 Chemical dehumidifier packs used for drying boats 

and damp closets. 

•		 Cat litter made of clay. 

•		 Calcium chloride pellets (used to melt ice in the 

winter). Hang pellets in a pillow case, nylon stocking, or other porous bag. Put a bucket underneath to 

catch dripping water. Close the closet or area being 

dried. Be careful. Calcium chloride can burn your 

skin. It will also make the air salty, so do not use 

this product near computers or other delicate equipment. 

♦	 Call♦a♦contractor. There are contractors who specialize in drying out flooded buildings. Look in the yellow 

pages under Fire and Water Damage Restoration or under Dehumidifying. Be careful about contractors who 

inflate prices after a disaster. 

Be patient. Drying your house could take several weeks. 

Until your house is reasonably dry, damage caused by 

mildew and decay will continue. The musty odor will stay 

forever if the house is not dried out well. 
	 	

Items Soaked by Floodwater 

Should I Throw Them Out? 

Usually 

Mattresses, pillows 

Foam rubber 

Large carpets, carpet padding 

Upholstered couches and chairs 

Books, paper products 

Always 

Food 

Cosmetics 

Medicines and medical supplies 

Stuffed animals 

Baby toys 

Mitigation ideas |	 5 

Sort Contents and Discard Debris 

You have 3 types of contents. They should go to 3 different places: 

Things You Want to Save 

Move things you want to save to a safe, dry place, such as 

the second story or outside. The longer they sit in water, 

the more damaged they become. Don’t leave wood furniture in the sun because it will warp as it dries. 

Things You Don’t Want to Save 

Put things you don’t want to save outside to dry until the 

adjuster comes to confirm your losses. Take pictures or 

videotapes and list each item for the record. 

Garbage 

Get rid of food and anything else that could spoil or go 

bad immediately. Don’t let garbage build up. Garbage piles 

will cause yet another health hazard by attracting animals 

and insects. If your insurance adjuster has not come, tell 

your agent or adjuster that you need to get rid of potential 

health hazards. That person will tell you how to make sure 

that your losses are covered. Then throw the stuff out, 

preferably in sealed plastic garbage bags. Dispose of discarded items properly. Do not burn or bury them. There 

will usually be more frequent garbage pickups after a 

flood. Your local newspapers or local TV and radio stations 

will have announcements about trash pickup schedules 

and drop-off sites. 
6 	 	| Protecting Your Home	and Property From Flood 	damage 	 	 	 	 	

3	 Cleaning Mold, Mildew and Bacteria
 

Mold, mildew and bacteria are common following floods 

and other water damage. If unchecked they can lead to 

sanitation and health problems. The walls, floors, closets, 

shelves, contents-every flooded part of your house-should 

be thoroughly washed and disinfected. 

In most cases, household cleaning products will do the job 

if you use them correctly. Check the label on the products 

to see how much to use. Some products shouldn’t be used 

on certain materials; the label will tell you that. Apply 

cleaner and give it time to work before you mop or sponge 

it up. Follow directions and all safety precautions on the 

container. After cleaning a room or item, go over it again 

with a disinfectant to kill the germs and smell left by the 

floodwaters. 

Cleaning Tips 

Tackle one room at a time. A two-bucket approach is most 

efficient: use one bucket for rinse water and the other for 

the cleaner. Rinse out your sponge, mop, or cleaning cloth 

in the rinse bucket. Wring it as dry as possible and keep 

it rolled up tightly as you put it in the cleaner bucket. Let 

it unroll to absorb the cleaner. Using two buckets keeps 

most of the dirty rinse water out of your cleaning solution. 

Replace the rinse water frequently. 

Walls 

Start cleaning a wall at the bottom or where the worst 

damage was. If you did not have to remove the wallboard 

or plaster, you may find that the wallboard or plaster won’t 

come clean and you will want to replace it rather than 

clean it. If you have removed the wallboard or plaster, 

wash the studs and sills and disinfect them. 

Cleaners 

1st choice: non-sudsing household cleaners 

2nd choice: Laundry soap or detergent 

Disinfectants 

1st choice: Commercial disinfectants or sanitizers, such 

as the quaternary, phenolic, or pine oil based ones. 

(Check labels for the contents). 

2nd choice: 11⁄2 cup of laundry bleach for one gallon of 

water. 

Mildew Removers 

1st choice: Commercial mildew removers or 

mildewicides 

2nd choice: Washing soda or tri-sodium phosphate 

(available at grocery or paint stores). Use five 

tablespoons per gallon of water. 

3rd choice: 11⁄2 cup of laundry bleach for one gallon of 

water.	see below on using bleach. 

Bleach 

Liquid chlorine bleach, such as Clorox or Purex bleach, 

can do a variety of flood clean up jobs. Make sure that 

5.25% sodium hypochlorite is the only active ingredient. Bleach that has a scent added to improve its smell 

is available.	scented bleach is fine for cleanup jobs, but 

don’t use it to treat drinking water.	don’t use dry bleach 

or any beach that does not contain chlorine. Be careful of fumes and wear rubber gloves. Read the safety 

instructions on the label.	do not mix bleach with other 

household chemical products, especially ammonia or 

toilet bowl cleaner; the chemical reaction can create 

a poisonous gas.	do not use bleach on aluminum or 

linoleum. 

Cleaning Supplies Checklist 

Brooms, Mops, Buckets, 		   Brushes,	sponges Hose 

 Lubricating	oil  trash bags 

 Cleaner disinfecants 

 Rubber  Hair	dryer 

 gloves  Rags 
	 	 7 

 

 

Mitigation ideas |	 

Furniture 

Wood alcohol or turpentine applied with a cotton ball may 

remove white mildew spots on wood. Cream wood restorers and lanolin will help restore good wooden furniture. 

Upholstered furniture soaks up contaminants from floodwaters and should be cleaned only by a professional. This 

is also true of carpets and bedding. Unless the piece is an 

antique or very valuable, upholstered furniture soaked by 

floodwaters should probably be thrown out. 

Clothing and Linens 

Even if your washing machine did not get wet, do not use 

it until you know that the water is safe enough to drink 

and that your sewer line works. Before you wash clothes 

in the washing machine, run the machine through one 

full cycle. Be sure to use hot water and a disinfectant or 

sanitizer. Take clothes and linens outdoors and shake out 

dried mud or dirt before you wash them. To prevent a 

drain clog, hose off muddy items to remove all dirt before 

you put them in the washer. Check the labels on clothes 

and linens, and wash them in detergent and warm water 

if possible. Adding chlorine bleach to the wash cycle will 

remove most mildew and will sanitize the clothing, but 

bleach fades some fabrics and damages other fabrics. You 

can buy other sanitizers, such as pine oil cleaners, at the 

grocery store to sanitize fabrics that cannot be bleached. 

If the label says “Dry Clean Only,” shake out loose dirt and 

take the item to a professional cleaner. If you want to clean 

leather yourself, wash the mud off and dry the leather 

slowly away from heat or sunlight. 

Appliances 

There is an unexpected danger of shock with some 

electrical appliances such as TV sets and radios. Certain 

internal parts store electricity even when the appliance is 

unplugged. Check the back for a warning label. Appliances 

with such labels will need professional cleaning. 

You will need appliances such as the washing machine, 

dryer, dishwasher, and vacuum cleaner to help clean your 

house and its contents. The motors or heating elements 

can usually be cleaned. If you cannot wait for a professional cleaning job, unplug, disassemble, and hose off the 

appliances thoroughly (with hot water, if possible). Then 

clean and disinfect them, but do not use detergents. 

Clean and disinfect dishwashers, clothes washers and dryers only with water that has been declared safe for drinking. Make sure the sewer line is working before you start 

a dishwasher or washing machine. You can speed up the 

drying process for motors and parts by using a blow dryer 

or a moisture displacement spray. Moisture displacement 

sprays, such as electronics parts cleaners or WD-40 lubricating and penetrating oil can also stop rust and corrosion 

until the appliance can be disassembled and cleaned. One 

word of caution: The spray is flammable. Read and follow 

label instructions and precautions. 

Moving parts such as motors and pulleys will need oil or 

grease. Contacts and electrical switches can be cleaned 

with moisture displacement spray or an aerosol contact 

cleaner available at electronics or auto parts stores. Allow a 

motor to run for 30 minutes with no load before using it. 

Watch for stripped or damaged insulation around wires. 

Be sure all appliances are properly grounded. Appliances 

that must be grounded have a round third prong or a 

grounding wire on their plug. 

Refrigerators, freezers and ovens are more complicated. 

They may have foam insulation and sealed components 

that suffered little water damage. But these appliances 

hold food, and so they should be cleaned, disinfected and 

checked by a professional or replaced. 

Kitchen Items 

Throw out soft plastic and porous items that probably 

absorbed whatever the floodwaters carried in. Floodwaters 

are contaminated, so you may want to wash dishes by 

hand in a disinfectant. Air dry the disinfected dishes; do 

not use a dishtowel. The dishwasher should also be used 

only after you know your water is safe to drink and your 

sewer line works. Clean and disinfect it first. Then use a 

hot setting to wash your pots, pans, dishes, and utensils. 

(If you have an energy saving setting, do not use it.) 

Food 

Throw out any food that has been touched by floodwaters. 

Even food in tin cans should be discarded if the cans 

got wet during the flood because there is no way to be 

absolutely certain the food inside is safe. Do not keep food 

in bottles or jars with bottle caps or screw on lids-they do 

not keep out floodwaters. For more information on safe 

food handling, go to www.FoodSafety.gov : Disaster Assistance 

or call FDA’s toll-free information line at 1-888-SAFEFOOD 

(1-888-723-3366). 

For more information: FEMA Publication 

606 “Mold and Mildew: Cleaning Up 

Your Flood Damaged Home” You can get 

a printed copy by calling 800 480 2520 or 

download your own PDF copy from www. 

fema.gov/library/viewRecord.do?id=3049 
8 	 	| Protecting Your Home	and Property From Flood 	damage 	 	 	 	 	

4	 Obtaining a Building Permit
 

Local codes generally require a building permit before you 

repair or floodproof your structure. Usually you need to 

get a permit for electrical work, plumbing and repairs for 

structural damage, such as foundations and exterior walls. 

Because your property may be located in a designated 

floodplain you will also want to check with the permit 

department before constructing any floodwalls or berms 

on your property. 

Your building department will have maps called Flood 

Hazard Boundary Maps (FHBMs) that will show the 

floodplain in your community. This area is known as the 

Special Flood Hazard Area (SFHA). 

The National Flood Insurance Program (NFIP), and most 

local and state building codes require that a building in 

the floodplain that is substantially damaged or substantially improved be treated as new construction. The lowest 

floor must be elevated at or above the Base Flood Elevation 

(BFE). The BFE is also known as the 100-year flood level 

elevation. Substantial damage means that the cost to restore 

your house to its “before damaged” condition would equal 

or exceed fifty percent (50%) of the market value of your 

house before the damage occurred. 

Substantial improvement means any reconstruction, rehabilitation, addition, or other improvement of a structure, 

the cost of which equals or exceeds fifty percent (50%) of 

the market value of the structure before the start of construction of the improvement. Combining a repair with an 

improvement where the total cost equals or exceeds fifty 

percent (50%) of the market value of your house before 

the damage occurred will also trigger the requirement to 

elevate. 

If your home is substantially damaged you may have no 

choice but to elevate or relocate your house to meet NFIP 

standards. Some property owners have chosen the option 

of relocating their house. 

Refer to the publication Answers to Questions About 

Substantially Damage Buildings (FEMA 213) on how to 

properly determine if a building is substantially damaged 

in accordance with NFIP regulations. 

Failure to follow the local building code can 

result in an order to stop construction, a fine, 

higher flood insurance rates, denial of flood 

insurance, or all of the above. 
Mitigation ideas |	 	 	 9 

5	 Selecting a Contractor
 

Finding a good contractor to handle difficult repair jobs or 

to rebuild is essential. Here are some tips to help. 

Sleuthing 

If you have been satisfied with work done before by a local 

licensed contractor, use that firm. If you haven’t used a 

contractor before, or if you were unhappy with a previous experience, you may have to do some investigating to 

increase your chances of getting a good one. 

 Ask the contractor for proof of insurance. This should 

include a completion bond, disability and worker’s 

compensation insurance. Improperly insured contractors may expose you to liability for accidents occurring 

on your property. 

 Check on the firm’s reputation. Ask the local Better 

Business Bureau, home builders association or building trades council. They can tell you if the firm has had 

unanswered complaints filed against it. 

 Ask for references. Reputable contractors are willing 

to provide names of their previous customers. Contact 

some of them and ask how satisfied they were with the 

job and if they would hire that contractor again. 

Get It in Writing 

No matter how well you know the contractor or how much 

you trust him/her, get everything related to the job in writing. 

 Get a written estimate. It should include everything 

you expect the contractor to do. Some contractors 

charge a fee for an estimate. 

 Obtain a contract. The contract should be complete and 

clearly state all the work, costs, and payment schedule. 

Never sign a blank contract or one with blank spaces. It 

may be worthwhile to have your attorney look it over if 

a lot of money is involved. 

 Ask for guarantees. Any guarantees from the contractor 

should be written into the contract. It should include 

what is guaranteed, who is responsible for the guarantee *(dealer, contractor, manufacturer) and the length 

of time for which the guarantee is valid. 

 Get a final contract. A signed contract is binding on 

both you and the contractor. Don’t sign completion papers or make the final payment until the work is finished 

to your satisfaction and approved by your local building 

inspector. 

Beware of Disreputable Business 

Activities
�

Areas recovering from floods are often prime targets 

for less-than-honest business activities. Here are 

some points to help safeguard against such practices: 

♦	 Beware of “special deals” offered after a disaster 

by contractors you don’t know. 

♦	 Beware of unknown contractors wanting to use 

your house as a “model home.” 

♦	 Do not sign any contract under pressure by a 

salesperson. Federal law requires a three day cooling-off period for unsolicited door-to-door sales 

of more than $25. If you choose to cancel such a 

contract within three business days of signing it, 

send your cancellation by registered mail. 

♦	 Beware if you are asked to pay cash on the spot 

instead of a check made out to the contracting 

company. A reasonable down payment is up to 

30% of the total project cost. 

♦	 Your contractor should call you or a qualified 

observer to inspect hidden work (e.g., sewers or 

basement wall) before it is covered over. Most 

building departments must inspect electrical and 

plumbing lines before the walls are covered with 

wallboard or paneling. 
10 	 	| Protecting Your Home	and Property From Flood 	damage 	 	 	 	 	

	 	 	 	 6	
 Tips for Repairing a Flood-Damaged
 

Building 

The most important thing - give your house plenty of 

time to dry! Rushing to rebuild before everything dries 

can cause many problems. The rule of thumb is, if it takes 

a week for visible moisture to disappear, it will take at 

least another week for unseen parts to dry. Here are some 

inexpensive measures you can take to make your recovery 

easier after the next flood. 

Utilities 

Per the NFIP regulations, 60.3 (a)(3), electrical equipment 

should be designed and/or located to prevent water from 

entering or accumulating. Consult with your community's 

officials on any additional requirements. 

Electrical: Move the main breaker or fuse box and utility 

meters at least 12” above the Base Flood Elevation (BFE) for 

your house. (BFE is also referred to as the 100 year flood 

level). Label each circuit. If the electrical code allows, raise 

the electrical outlets and switches above the flood level. 

Equipment: Relocate or elevate all equipment at least 12” 

above the BFE. If you plan to replace a flooded furnace, 

water heater, or air conditioner, install the new one on 

a higher floor. If your new air conditioner or heat pump 

will be outside, install it on a raised platform. An updraft 

furnace in a basement can be replaced with a downdraft 

furnace on an upper floor. Place heavy appliances on raised 

platforms. Make sure washers/dryers will not vibrate 

off the blocks or platform during use. A one or two foot 

waterproof floodwall around appliances will protect them 

from shallow flooding. 

Walls 

Wash and disinfect the studs and sills if the wallboard and 

insulation were removed. If rebuilding, consider metal 

studs and sills as they are less damaged by water than 

wooden ones. Pressure-treated wood resists mildew and 

wood-eating insects but may swell when soaked. Warning: 

Some pressure-treated wood should not be used inside the 

house. It depends on the chemicals used to treat them. Ask 

your lumber company for consumer information that gives 

specific precautions. 

Wallboard 

If you install the wall board horizontally (four feet high), 

you’ll only have to replace half the wall if the next flood is 

less than 4 feet deep. 

Leave the wall open 1 inch above the sill. The baseboards 

will hide the gap, but all you have to do after the next 

flood is remove the baseboard and the wall cavity will 

drain freely and air will circulate better. (Not applicable if 

local code requires a fire wall.) 

Greenboard or other moisture-resistant wallboard may 

be more sturdy than regular wallboard, but replacement 

is still often recommended as it presents the same health 

hazards when soaked with floodwaters. 

Floors 

Particle board or plywood fall apart when wet for lengthy 

periods. Floor joists and some wood floors regain their 

shape when naturally dried. Use screws or screw nails 

on floors and stairs to minimize warping. Completely 

dry subflooring before laying new flooring or carpeting. 

Renail, then sand or place a new underlayment for a new 

floor. 

Paints 

Completely dry the surface before painting. This may take 

several weeks, but paint will peel if applied over a damp 

surface. Coat concrete surfaces with penetrating sealer for 

easier future cleanup. Coat water-stained areas with shellac or commercial stain killer first or the stains will bleed 

through the paint. Dryproofing requires thick plastic or 

rubberized sheeting. Waterproofing paints do not keep out 

floodwaters. 

Windows and Doors 

When appropriate, replace flood damaged windows with 

vinyl or metal framed windows. Hollow core or polystyrene foam filled metal doors are water resistant. Metal in 

both windows and doors may rust slightly but that is easily 

repaired. 
	 	

ls to Avoid 

fing 

se installation 

weed killer, pesti-

 swimming pool and 

ood, chipboard, 

ard, strawboard, 

oard, drywall, 

Building Materia

When Floodproo

♦ Fiberglass or cellulo

♦ Cork or corkboard 

♦ Gasoline, motor oil, 

cide, lye, drain clear,

other chemicals 

♦ Linoleum 

♦ Particle board, plyw

fiberboard, paperbo

Masonite paneling 

♦ Wallboard, plasterb

gypsum 

♦ Wallpaper 

	 	

Mitigation ideas |	 11 

7	 Water-Resistant Building Materials 

the most water-resistant plywood; it can be used for floor and Marine plywood exterior-wall sheathing. 

Meant to resist low-level moisture, humidity.	not for water saturation Exterior-grade plywood conditions. 

Manufacturers do not consider greenboard (moisture-resistant dry 

wall) to be a flood-proofing material.	it can be submerged for several Greenboard hours without extensive deterioration and it is only slightly more 

expensive than normal plasterboard. 

Will not deform or lose its insulative properties when wet. Can be Rigid (closed-cell) dried out and reinstalled in wall or floor cavity. Use instead of fiber- insulation glass insulation. 

Synthetic baseboards Use instead of wood base. 

Will not rust after being in floodwaters. Use at all locations up to three Galvanized nails feet above the Base Flood	elevation. 

Will not warp if saturated. May rust in spots, but this can be sanded out Metal doors and frames and repainted. Use at all doorways, especially exterior. 

Metal and vinyl windows Will not warp if saturated. 

adheres to marine or pressure treated plywood underlayment with Sheet vinyl flooring or tile waterproof adhesive. 

Use with synthetic carpet pad.	do not 		 Indoor and outdoor carpet permanently fasten down. 

Will not rust and allow easy removal and 		

Galvanized drywall screws reassembly of interior walls. Use instead of 		

standard drywall nails. 

not damaged by water saturation, but must be 		 Brick, concrete used in conjunction with a waterproof membrane.

Made of recycled plastics. Waterproof and 		

Plastic wood dimensionally stable. Check building code for 		

acceptable uses. 

Relatively stable in water saturation conditions. 		

Will not sustain heavy damage but may warp. 		

Plywood second only to marine plywood in 		

Pressure-treated lumber/ water-resistance. Use at all flood-levels. 		

plywood Moisture-resistant material below the Base Flood 		

elevation. (Note: If treated lumber is used, protective gloves must be 

worn during installation, and a protective barrier such as drywall must 

be placed between the treated lumber and living space) 
12 	 	| Protecting Your Home	and Property From Flood 	damage 	 	 	 	 	

	 	 	 	

 

8	 Mitigation Steps You Can Take
 

There is a wide range of flood protection measures for mitigation techniques that can be used to protect specific 

buildings that can eliminate or reduce the risk of fu- elements of a building. This booklet provides illustrations 

ture flood damage. Buildings can be relocated out of the of many flood loss reduction techniques and highlights 

floodplain area or elevated above the projected flood levels. some important basic building code requirements for 

There are also a number of relatively inexpensive flood building or repairing homes located in a floodplain. 

 Relocate  Elevate  Other Options
�
Mitigation ideas |	 	 	 13 

 Relocating Your House
�

It is possible, and sometimes necessary, to move your 

house to a new location outside the floodplain. Moving 

your home out of the floodplain area is the surest way to 

protect it and yourself from flood damage, but it can be 

costly. You may need to purchase a new lot unless your 

present lot is large and has a good building location on 

higher ground. 

To relocate a building, it is detached from the original 

foundation, placed on a heavy-duty truck bed, transported 

to the new site and set on a conventional foundation. 

Unless there is a hidden structural defect, most homes and 

small commercial buildings in good structural condition can be moved with no more damage than occasional 

slight cracks in the plaster or wallboard joints. Single-story 

frame houses over a crawlspace or basement are easiest to 

relocate. Multi-story, slab-on-grade, and brick buildings 

can also be moved. 

Moving a house is a complex operation that requires a professional house mover. Before you choose a house mover, 

obtain bids from several companies and contractors. Before 

choosing the lowest bid be certain the contractor or mover 

has the experience and resources to complete the project at 

the quoted price. Be certain that they have liability insurance to cover the move. 

Also, contact your local officials as possible alternative 

funding for relocation may be available, depending on 

where you live. 

Construction Steps Involved 

in Building Relocation 

♦ 	 Locate♦a♦new♦building♦site.

♦ 	 Check♦the♦transportation♦route♦to♦

the♦new♦location.♦Is♦it♦adequate♦to♦

move♦the♦house?

♦ 	 On♦the♦building♦site,♦construct♦a♦

new♦perimeter♦and♦interior♦foundation♦to♦fit♦the♦existing♦house.♦

Stub♦in♦new♦utilities♦to♦as♦needed.

♦ 	 Disconnect,♦elevate♦and♦move♦the♦

house♦to♦the♦new♦location.

♦ 	 Lower♦and♦anchor♦the♦building♦

onto♦the♦new♦foundation.

♦ 	 Connect♦the♦new♦utilities.
14 	 	| Protecting Your Home	and Property From Flood 	damage 	 	 	 	 	

 

 

 

 Elevating Your House 

Most types of homes, including wood frame, brick veneer, 

slab-on-grade, crawlspace or homes with basements can be 

elevated above floodwaters. This is a reliable floodproofing 

method and requires little human intervention to prepare 

for a flood. Elevation requirements vary with local codes 

and ordinances but the new lowest floor elevation should 

be at or above the 100-year-flood level. You may wish to 

exceed the code requirements. Some buildings may be 

elevated high enough for the new lower level to serve as 

a garage. All elevated homes need new stairs and porches 

built to the new height. Elevating a home requires the 

services of plumbers, electricians, house movers and 

contractors. Because the new foundation will be in the 

floodwaters, it is important that it be structurally designed 

to withstand lateral (sideways) forces like fast-flowing 

currents and the impact of waterborne debris. A structural 

engineer can help you design your new foundation and 

obtain a permit from your building department. 

Basic Steps in Elevating a 

Building:
�

♦ 	 Have♦appropriate♦professionals♦disconnect♦

all♦utilities.

♦ 	 Hire♦a♦professional♦house♦mover♦to♦

disconnect♦your♦house♦from♦the♦existing♦

foundation,♦jack♦it♦up♦to♦the♦new♦height♦

and♦provide♦a♦temporary♦foundation.

♦ 	 Have♦the♦utilities♦temporarily♦reconnected♦

so♦the♦house♦is♦liveable♦while♦foundation♦

work♦is♦done.

♦ 	 Build♦a♦temporary♦access♦stair♦to♦meet♦the♦

new♦height.

♦ 	 Build♦a♦new,♦permanent♦foundation.

♦ 	 Have♦the♦house♦mover♦lower♦the♦house♦

onto♦the♦new♦foundation♦and♦connect♦

them♦together♦with♦anchor♦bolts.

♦ 	 Have♦the♦utilities♦permanently♦
 

reconnected.
 

♦ 	 Build♦a♦new,♦permanent♦access♦stair♦and♦

landing

Figure 1: l-beams are placed under lifting points perpendicular to floor joist with a 

second set beneath for uniform lifting 

Figure 2: The house is detached from the foudation, lifted by jacks, and a new foudation 

built beneath it 

Figure 3: For houses elevated on posts or columns, encase the posts in concrete and 

provide lateral bracing 
Mitigation ideas |	 	 	 15 

House Elevation Regulations 	 	 
 

Substantial Damage 

Substantial damage is structure damage from any cause where the cost of restoring the structure to its 

“before damage” condition would equal or exceed fifty (50) percent of its pre-disaster value. 

NFIP Housing Elevation Regulations 

Within communities participating in the NFIP, certain 

requirements apply when building a new home, when 

substantial damage has occurred to an existing home, or 

when substantial improvements to an existing home are 

planned. 

♦	 In A-Zones, the top of a building’s lowest floor, including basement, must be elevated to the Base Flood Elevation (BFE) plus any additional height above the BFE 

your community may require. 

A♦Zones♦-♦Riverine♦and♦coastal♦areas♦subject♦to♦flooding♦with♦waves♦less♦than♦3♦ft.♦in♦height.

♦	 In V-Zones, the lowest portion of the horizontal structural members supporting the lowest floor must be 

elevated to the BFE plus any additional height above the 

BFE your community may require. 

V-Zones♦-♦Areas♦adjacent♦to♦the♦beach♦subject♦to♦unusually♦high♦tides♦with♦wind♦driven,♦velocity♦waves♦

of♦three♦ft.♦or♦more.

♦	 Building materials located below the BFE, must be 

resistant to flood damage. 

♦	 Any enclosed area below the BFE must be constructed 

to prevent flotation, collapse, and lateral (sideways) 

movement of the structure. In A-Zones, exterior walls 

must have sufficient openings, or be designed, to allow 

the equalization of the hydrostatic forces on the walls. 

For V-Zones only, the walls of the enclosed area must 

be constructed to breakaway. Solid breakaway walls 

are not an integral part of the structural support of a 

building and are intended through their design and 

construction to collapse under specific lateral loading 

forces, without causing damage to the elevated portion 

of the building or supporting foundation. An area so 

enclosed is not secure against forcible entry. 

♦	 Construction of basements (enclosures with floor levels 

completely below ground level) is not permitted below 

the BFE. 

♦	 All machinery and equipment servicing the building 

must be elevated to or above the BFE or designed to 

prevent water from entering or accumulating during 

flooding. Such machinery/equipment includes but is 

not limited to furnaces, heat pumps, hot water heaters, air-conditioners, washers, dryers, refrigerators and 

similar appliances, elevator lift machinery, and electrical junction and circuit breaker boxes. 

♦	 All space designed for human habitation, including 

bedrooms, bathrooms, kitchen, dining, living, family 

and recreation rooms, must be elevated to or above the 

BFE. 

♦	 Uses permitted in spaces below the BFE are restricted 

to vehicular parking, limited storage, and building access (stairs, stairwells and elevator shafts). 
	 	 	 	 	 	 	

	 	 	 	 	

16 | Protecting Your Home	and Property From Flood 	damage 

Elevating a Structure with Crawlspace Foundation 
	 	

	 	 	 	 	

Mitigation ideas |	 17 

Elevating a Slab-on-Grade Wood Frame Structure 
18 | Protecting Your Home	and Property From Flood 	damage 

Elevating a Mobile Home
 

Note: In order for manufactured/mobile home owners 

located in Special Flood Hazard Areas to be eligible for 

NFIP flood insurance, their manufactured/mobile home 

must be able to resist floatation, collapse or lateral movement either by: 1) Over the top or frame ties to ground 

anchors; 2) or in accordance with the manufacturer’s 

specifications; 3) or in compliance with the community’s 

flood plain management requirements unless it is a 

manufactured/mobile home on a permanent foundation 

continuously insured by the NFIP on the same site since 

9/30/82. (Source: NFIP Standard Flood Insurance 

Manufactured Home Showing Cross Bracing and Foundation Policy, Article 6, Paragraph H) 

Foundations, cross bracing and tiedowns are the 

three basics of the proper elevation and anchoring 

of a manufactured home. Each is essential for a safe and Jefr

secure mobile home installation. ey MarkhaM

Slab Anchor - feMa 

This type of anchor is embedded in a 

Foundations 

cement foundations slab Straps are then tied from the anchor to the 

frame of the manufactured homes

A poured concrete footing, reinforced with rebar, gives 

maximum stability. Extend rebar from the footing and up 

into the steel reinforce concrete or concrete block pier. Sol- Cross-Bracing idly fill each concrete block with concrete. Cast threaded Diagonal bracing reduces foundation twisting and the po- anchor bolts into the top of each pier to anchor the mobile tential of collapse in flooding or high winds. Brace founda- home frame to the foundation. Posts attached to piers with tion posts with 2-inch nominal lumber bolted to the piers, special connectors cast into the concrete are also effective. or with steel rods fitted through drilled holes, fastened In areas with soft ground, post foundations may be able with nuts and tightened with turnbuckles. to achieve the required foundation strength. Drive posts 

into the ground down to a rock foundation, or to a depth 

specified by an engineer. Backfill posts with concrete for 

maximum strength. 

Diagonal Bracing with Wood Diagonal Bracing with Steel Rods 

Tie-Down Straps Large Pier Design Fill Block Cells with Concrete 

Tie-down straps are used at the base of the manufactured 

home and can be tied over the top. The most common failure is pullout of the ground anchor. For maximum pullout 

resistance, cast the anchor into a concrete deadman. 

Post Backfilled with Concrete Post Anchoring Tie Down Straps Tie Components 
Mitigation ideas |	 19 

Raised Main 

Service Panel 

100-Year Flood Level 

Raised Switch Raised 

Outlets 

Raised Meter 

12” Minimum 

Raised Wiring 

Dashed Lines Show Previous Locations 

(Below Flood Level) 

	 	

Elevating an Electrical System 	 	 	 
 

The surest way to protect your valuable electrical system is to keep it from getting wet. 

When rebuilding after a flood, or repairing by wet floodproofing, move all wiring at least 

one foot above the 100-year flood level. All outlets, switches, light sockets and junction 

boxes, as well as the main breaker or fuse box and electric motors, should be out of 

danger of getting wet. 

Run wires overhead. If a wire has to run into the areas that could get wet use a wire rated 

for underground use. No wire should end in the flood zone and all junctions should be 

in approved junction boxes. If a wire has to terminate below the 100-year flood level 

it should be specially marked in the panel box and turned off at the time of a flood 

warning. 

Change all outlets to ground fault interrupters (GFI). Be sure all electrical wiring is done 

by a licensed electrician and approved by the local building department. 

Certain repairs are not permitted for substantially damaged buildings. Check with your local building official or floodplain administrator before beginning repairs. 
20 	 	| Protecting Your Home	and Property From Flood 	damage 	 	 	 	 	

Elevating Electric Baseboard Heaters 	 	 	

Protect your electric baseboard heater system by elevating it at least one foot above the 

100-year flood level. Use waterproof wall construction materials and techniques for the 

wall area below the baseboard units. 
	 	

	 	 	 	 	

Mitigation ideas |	 21 

Elevating or Relocating the Electric Panel 

Elevate or relocate your electric panel above the 100-year flood level to help prevent 

damage. All relevant permits must be obtained before work begins, and all work must 

conform to state and local building codes. 

Relocate 

Relocate the electric panel 

to available space above 

the first floor to protect it 

from flooding. 

Elevate 

Relocate electric panel to 

a recommended minimum 12” safety margin 

above the base flood 

elevation or the highest known flood level if 

you are outside of any 

known flood zone. The 

maximum panel height is 

regulated by code. 

Certain repairs are not permitted for substantially damaged buildings. Check with your local building official or floodplain administrator before beginning repairs. 
22 	 	| Protecting Your Home	and Property From Flood 	damage 	 	 	 	 	

Elevating or Relocating the Heating Plant 	 	 	 	 	 
 

When relocating or raising the heating plant be sure it will have a 12 inch safety margin 

above the 100-year flood level. If the existing ductwork for your furnace is below the 

100-year flood level (e.g. inside a slab or crawlspace beneath the home) it should be relocated so that it distributes heat from at least one foot above the 100-year flood level. Your 

local building department can help you determine your 100-year flood level. If you locate 

the furnace on an upper floor or attic it will require the installation of a “downdraft” furnace, which is slightly different from a standard model. If you are replacing your furnace 

ask your supplier for information on a downdraft system. 

HVAC components raised to 

second floor or attic 

Elevate utilities remaining on the first floor 

above the 100-year- flood level on a base of Recommended masonry or concrete minimum 12” 

above 100-year 

flood level 

Certain repairs are not permitted for substantially damaged buildings. Check with your local building official or floodplain administrator before beginning repairs. 
Mitigation ideas |	 	 	 23 

Suspending a Heating System 	 	 	

Suspend the heating system with a safety margin of at least 12” above the 100-year flood 

level and in a manner that conforms to the manufacturer’s specifications and all applicable state and local building codes. 

Certain repairs are not permitted for substantially damaged buildings. Check with your local building official or floodplain administrator before beginning repairs. 
24 	 	| Protecting Your Home	and Property From Flood 	damage 	 	 	 	 	

Elevating a Washer and Dryer 	 	 	 	

Elevate your washer and dryer on a masonry or pressure treated lumber base to at least a 

12” safety margin above the 100-year flood level. 

Certain repairs are not permitted for substantially damaged buildings. Check with your local building official or floodplain administrator before beginning repairs. 
Mitigation ideas |	 	 	 25 

Relocating a Washer and Dryer 	 	 	 	

To protect them from flood damage, relocate washer and dryer to a floor at least 12 

inches above the base flood elevation.
	

Certain repairs are not permitted for substantially damaged buildings. Check with your local building official or floodplain administrator before beginning repairs. 
26 	 	| Protecting Your Home	and Property From Flood 	damage 	 	 	 	 	

Elevating or Relocating a Water Heater 	 	 	 	 	

When relocating or raising the water heater be sure that it will be at least 12 inches above 

the 100-year flood level. Consult your local building department for details. 

Certain repairs are not permitted for substantially damaged buildings. Check with your local building official or floodplain administrator before beginning repairs. 
	 	

	 	 	

	 	

Mitigation ideas |	 27 

Elevating an Air Conditioning Compressor 

or Heat Pump 

To protect an air conditioning compressor or heat pump elevate it at least 12” above the 

100-year flood level on masonry, concrete or pressure-treated lumber base. 

Certain repairs are not permitted for substantially damaged buildings. Check with your local building official or floodplain administrator before beginning repairs. 

Keep service lines 

above 100-year 

flood level 

Recommended minimum 

12” above 100-year 

flood level 
28 	 	| Protecting Your Home	and Property From Flood 	damage 	 	 	 	 	

Anchoring a Fuel Tank 	 	 	

Unanchored fuel tanks can tip over or float. Escaping fuel may result in spills and fires. 

To prevent this, anchor your fuel tank. Use non-corrosive metal structural supports and 

fasteners. The type of anchorage, including slab dimensions, will vary depending on the 

size of the tank. Keep the fuel tank topped off to increase the tank’s weight and to reduce 

it’s tendency to float. 

Note: 

♦	 Check with the fuel tank manufacturer for recommendations on 

anchoring. 

♦	 Be sure all work done conforms 

to state and local building codes. 

♦	 For rented tanks, check with the 

fuel supplier before making any 

modifications to the tank. 
	 	

	 	

Mitigation ideas |	 29 

12" 

Electrical wiring, 

outlets and switches 

elevated above the 

100-year flood level 

Drywall screws used 

to attach drywall for 

ease of disassembly 

and reassembly 

Bellow the horizontal blocking, 

use moisture resistant drywall 

installed horizontally with 

screws for ease of cleaning 

and replacement. Ask retailers 

and check manufacturing 

specifications regarding best 

materials 

Indoor/outdoor or synthetic 

carpet with closed-cell pad 

and waterproof glues 

Standard 

drywall 

Pressure treated lumber 

horizontal blocking at 

12” above the 100-year 

flood level 

100-year 

flood level 

Interior Wall Section 

improving	interior Wall Construction 

Hard rubber 

or plastic 

baseboard 

Pressure 

treated 

lumber 

Galvanized 

fasteners used 

to 12” above 

the 100-year 

flood level 

Certain repairs are not permitted for substantially damaged buildings. Check with your local building official or floodplain administrator before beginning repairs. 
30 | Protecting Your Home	and Property From Flood 	damage 

Pumping Out a Flooded Basement 

If Your Basement Is 

Flooded, Don’t Rush 

to Pump It Out 

Water in the ground outside 

your house is pushing hard Saturated against the outside of your ground Flooded Drained basement walls; and the basement Saturated basement ground water inside your basement 

is pushing right back. If 

you drain your basement 

faster than the water outside 

drains out of the ground, 

the outside pressure will 

be greater than the inside 

pressure. This unequal 

pressure may cause the floor Cracked 

floor to crack then buckle and the 

wall to crack and possibly Water in the basement equalizes pressure from water outsideWithout water in the basement, pressure from groundwater 

collapse. can cause the floor to crack and the walls to colapse

How to Safely Pump Water Out of Your What to Do After Draining Your 

Basement Basement 

♦ Never go into a flooded basement unless you are sure ♦ Disinfect the floors and walls to remove bacteria left 

the electricity is off. from the floodwaters. 

♦ Start pumping the water out of the basement when ♦ Before turning the power back on, check any electrical 

floodwaters no longer cover the ground. service that may have been damaged. Replace any wiring, switches, outlets that were wet during the flood. ♦ Gasoline engines create deadly carbon monoxide 

exhaust fumes. Don’t use gasoline-powered pumps or ♦ Remove heating and air conditioning vents or registers 

generators indoors. as soon as possible and hose out the ductwork. Flooded 

ducts contain mud and bacteria. 

♦ Pump the water level down 2 to 3 feet. Mark the level, 

and wait overnight. ♦ Check your water system for loose pipes and leaks. 

♦ Check the water level the next day. If the water level ♦ Check your water supply to be certain it is not 

went back up over your mark, it is still too early to contaminated. 

drain your basement. Wait 24 hours, then pump the ♦ Check all other utilities and drains for damage from the water down 2 to 3 feet again. Mark the level and check floodwaters. it the next day. 

♦ When the water stops rising, pump down another 2 to 

3 feet and wait overnight. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until all 

water is pumped out of the basement. 
	 	

	 	 	 	

	 	 	 	 	 	

	 	 	 	

	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	

	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	

	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	

Mitigation ideas |	 31 

Sump Pumps 

Sump: a	 hole designed to collect water. 

Sump Pump: a	 pump used to remove water from 

basements and other low areas. 

Figure 1: Pedestal Pump 

A sump consists of a perforated liner set in a hole lined 

with coarse stone. The stone helps collect water and filter 

out fine particles. A filter cloth may extend the life of the 

sump by preventing it from silting up. Perforated watercollection pipes draining to the sump make it more effective. In some homes, all lower level waste water is pumped 

up and out by a sump pump. 

A sump pump is usually either the submersible type with a 

motor and impeller under water, or the pedestal type with 

the impeller under water and motor on top. Both types 

have an automatic switch. Both types will work until the 

electricity is shorted by the water. With the submersible 

type, this happens at the end of the electrical supply wire. 

With the pedestal type, it happens when the water reaches 

the motor on top of the pedestal. Both types should have 

a one-way valve that will not allow the water to flow back 

into the discharge hose or pipe. 

Caution! 

Electricity and water are a hazardous combination. The 

sump pump must be wired into a grounded receptacle that 

only allows one plug. A second nearby outlet should be 

equipped with a ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI). 

This second outlet should be handy so that people working 

near the sump pump will not be tempted to unplug it to 

use the outlet, thereby placing themselves in danger. 

Note: if you drain your basement too quickly, serious damage can occur. Flooding or high groundwater may cause basement 

walls and floors to crack or collapse, because the pressure outside the walls will be greater than the pressure inside the walls if 

water is removed. Basements should not be pumped out until the floodwaters subside. 

Figure 2: Submersible Pump 
32 	 	| Protecting Your Home	and Property From Flood 	damage 	 	 	 	 	

installing an Exterior Floodwall 	 	 	 
 

An exterior floodwall can 

protect a window well or stair 

against low level flooding. 

Constructed of concrete or 

masonry the walls should be 

supported by and securely 

tied into a footing so they 

will not be undercut by 

scouring. Understanding your 

particular flood situation and 

soil conditions is important in 

order to properly evaluate if a 

flood wall is the right solution 

for you. Flood walls are not 

effective when the ground 

becomes saturated. 

Construct a watertight flood 

wall around the perimeter of 

the opening. The wall should 

not exceed three feet in height 

and must be constructed of steel 

reinforced poured concrete 

or steel reinforced concrete 

masonry units to prevent failure 

under flood conditions. Install 

a proper footing and anchor 

the floodwall to existing walls. 

Install a watertight, springloaded steel access door and 

watertight gaskets on sides 

and bottom of frame at any 

necessary opening. Be sure all 

work conforms to State and local 

building codes. 
Mitigation ideas |	 	 	 33 

installing an	interior Floodwall 	 	

An interior flood wall can protect against low level flooding. The wall must enclose the 

utilities and be at least one foot above the 100 year flood elevation. To resist the pressure 

of the floodwaters, construct the wall of either steel reinforced concrete blocks or steel 

reinforced poured concrete. Connect the new wall to the existing basement wall and 

floor with properly embedded reinforcing steel. For best protection, do not install gates 

which open into the enclosure. 
34 | Protecting Your Home	and Property From Flood 	damage 

installing an Exterior Foundation Drainage System 

All houses need a well-developed drain system to col- A 4” deep bed of gravel under the slab should allow water 

lect and carry away groundwaters. This means installing to run to a central collection paint where there is a sump 

drains around all footings. Use perforated pipe surrounded pump with a continuous power source. If you have a lot of 

by a filter fabric and covered with rounded drain rock to water under the slab, you may need to install perforated 

drain water that seeps through the ground. These drains pipe drain lines to carry the water to the sump pump. 

should slope to a low point from which a single line As with other retrofitting systems, a sealed house will usu- should carry the water away from the house, either to a ally need a sewer backflow protection device. drain line in the street or to a drywell on your property. 

Do not drain water toward a hillside. Doing so may create 

concentrations of water that can trigger landslides. 

Exterior Foundation Drain System 
Mitigation ideas |	 	 	 35 

installing an	interior Foundation Drainage System 

Interior Basement Drain System 

Some homes need a basement foundation drain system The basement drainage retrofit depicted below is a simple, 

to collect and carry away groundwater. This may involve generic system utilizing perforated drain pipe, wrapped in 

cutting the floor slab, excavating a trench and installing filter fabric, and imbedded in rounded drain rock. Other, 

drains along the inside perimeter of all footings. These more sophisticated systems, some of which are patented, 

drains should slope to a low point from which a single line are available to correct serious basement drainage probcan carry the water away from the house, either to a drain lems. Consult an architect, engineer or licensed specialty 

line in the street or a drywell on your property. Do not contractor for specific information and recommendations 

drain water toward a hillside. Doing so may create concen- regarding system alternatives. 

trations of water that can trigger landslides. 
	 	 	 	 	 	 	

	 	 	

	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	

	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	

	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	

	 	 	

36 | Protecting Your Home	and Property From Flood 	damage 

Sealing Openings in Walls 

If your house is being flooded by flowing waters entering 

through windows, doors or other openings, you can temporarily seal those openings to keep the water out. 

Make or purchase metal or wooden shields to fit the openings. Secure the shields to the openings with bolts or slide 

them into special positioning channels. Seal the shields 

to the opening with a special rubber gasket or a bead of 

caulking to make them water tight. Also, sandbags can be 

stacked in doorways or window wells and vents to make 

the openings water resistant. 

Note: shield height generally should not exceed 1 1⁄2 feet 

above ground level.	exterior water deeper than 1 1⁄2 feet 

could push the walls in if there is no water inside to push 

back with equal force. 

Figure 1: Bolt-on flood shield Figure 2: Removable window cover 
Mitigation ideas |	 	 	 37 

installing a Backflow Valve 	 	 	

The sewage/septic system is designed to remove sewage from a house. If flood water enters the system, the sewage can backup and enter your home. To help prevent this, install 

a backflow valve in the sewer line. The backflow valve is opened by the flow of sewage 

exiting your home, but closes when the flow reverses preventing sewage from backing up 

into your home. Check with your local building official for permitting and code requirements. It is recommended that this work be done by a qualified, licensed contractor. 

Certain repairs are not permitted for substantially damaged buildings. Check with your local building official or floodplain administrator before beginning repairs. 
38 	 	| Protecting Your Home	and Property From Flood 	damage 	 	 	 	 	

	 	 	 	

 

 

 

installing a Floor Drain Plug 

The easiest way to stop sewer backup is to plug the 

opening where the backup can first enter the house. The 

sanitary system’s lowest opening in the house is the floor 

drain. Commercial plugs are available that can be placed in 

the floor drain below the grate. Bolts on metal end pieces 

are tightened, causing a rubber gasket to expand and seal 

the plug in the pipe. 

A plug not only stops water from entering the house but it 

prevents it from leaving the house as well. Because of this, it 

may be best to put the plug in place only during heavy rains. 

You may install a plug with a float. The float allows water 

to drain out of the basement. When the sewer backs up, 

the float rises and plugs the drain. A float plug permanently installed will not interfere with the floor drain’s normal 

operation. 

Caution! 

♦	 Float plugs may be blocked open by even small 

amounts of debris. 

♦	 Floor drain plugs do not stop backup from 

coming out of the next lowest opening, for 

example a laundry tub or basement toilet. 

♦	 In older houses the sewer lines under the 

basement floor may be clay tile. A build up of 

water pressure can damage the sewer lines. 

Certain repairs are not permitted for substantially damaged buildings. Check with your local building official or floodplain administrator before beginning repairs. 
Mitigation ideas |	 	 	 39 

	 	

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

   

   

   

9	 Landslides and Mudflows
 

How to Recognize Problems 

Water generates & triggers most slope problems. Find where 

the water is coming from. Get out in the rain & check areas 

like hillslopes, gullies, driveway & street drainage, roof 

gutters & downspouts. Next, see where it flows & where it 

goes. Concentrated flow can cause great damage. 

♦ 	 Wet,♦Weak♦And♦Steep - Slope failure problems are 

caused by any combination of water saturation and 

flow; weak, heavy earth materials; and, steep slopes. 

Remember, WATER is the most common trigger of 

slope failure! 

♦ 	 Steep♦Slopes♦- Problems occur on steep slopes, especially when slope of one vertical to two horizontal is 

exceeded. 

♦	 Drainage - Channels, streams, gullying, ponding and 

erosion on slopes all indicate potential slope problems. 

Road and driveway drains, gutters, down spouts and 

other drainage can concentrate and accelerate flow. 

Ground saturation and concentrated velocity flow are a 

major cause of slope problems and landslide triggering. 

♦	 Debris - Deposition of soils and vegetation at the base 

of slopes show erosion, flow and creep from ground 

cover above. 

♦	 Vegetation - Condition of vegetation indicate slope 

conditions. Bare slopes may show erosion and sliding. 

Trees that bend downhill show creep of upper soils. 

Trees tilting uphill may show deep rotational landsliding. Patches of younger vegetation may show former 

slope failure. Horsetail ferns or other wet loving plants 

often indicate saturated ground and springs. 

♦	 Deformed♦Structures - Foundation cracks; doors and 

windows out of line or sticking; tilted floors; sagging 

decks; cracks in masonry and chimneys; cracks in 

driveways, curbs & roads, gaps between floors & walls, 

failing retaining walls & tilted power poles can be 

warnings of slope instability. 

Fill at the top of a slope 

increases both driving force 

& steepness, undercutting 

at the bottom of the slope 

reduces resisting force Water Saturation of

Slopes Adds Downward

Force and Reduces

Resisting Force

♦	 Loose fill at the top of a slope due to yard waste, cut & 

fill land grading or other process can aggravate slope 

instability. 

What You Can Do to Prevent Landslide and Slope 

Stability Problems: 

♦	 Divert, contain and safely discharge water around and 

away from unstable slopes, yards and structures. 

♦	 Use sandbags to divert water from uncontrolled spilling, 

such as over curbs or from gutters and downspouts, or 

from washing into buildings. 

♦	 Use ground cover to protect sensitive and unstable areas 

with plastic sheeting or tarps, burlap or other material. 

Wood chips and straw may be worked into the surface. 

Straw bales can retard velocity flow and erosion. Cover 

ground cracks, such as from sliding or erosion, with 

plastic sheeting staked or loaded down with weights. 

Protect cover from wind damage or other forces. 

Steeper Slopes

Have Greater

Downward Forces

Weight at the Toe

of a Slope Increases

Resisting Forces

Loading the Top

of a Slope Increases

Driving Force
40 | Protecting Your Home	and Property From Flood 	damage 

 

 

Drainage concentrated and discharged onto loose fill on the down slope side 

of a house by roof or driveway and road drains is the most dominant trigger of 

landsliding in areas of residential development on steep, weak slopes 

Conduct water to a safe storm 

drain discharge point 

Keep gutters clean Fix broken 

and leaking downspouts 

♦ Contain flow by directing into road gutters, storm 

drains or non-eroding stream beds. Flexible plastic pipe 

can be quickly installed. Redirect flow away from slopes 

and properties. Do not concentrate flow onto slopes or 

your neighbors property, or behind retaining walls. 

♦ Safely discharge concentrated water to a safe, non-erodible site such as a storm drain, street gutter or rock bed 

of a stream. Coarse rock or bales of straw can reduce 

the impact of concentrated velocity flow and can reduce 

sediment transport. 

Safety Tips 

Bank Stabilization 

Banks that are steep and susceptible to landslides, or are 

already sloughing off and encroaching upon a structure, 

are in need of a bank stabilization effort. Many different 

levels of protection are possible and it is best to consult 

with a geotechnical or structural engineer if you are in a 

hazardous area. 

Vegetation 

On geotechnical or slope areas where there is no threat 

to life or structures a vegetation planting plan may be the 

most reasonable approach. The different types of root systems that plants have can strengthen the cohesion of soils 

and bind the soil structure together into a larger unit. This 

can add resistance to potential landslide areas. Shallow 

roots can stabilize the top layer of soil, while deep tap or 

lateral root networks can strengthen the lower base layers. 

Many plants are particularly useful for bank stabilization. 

Your local nursery will be able to recommend plants that 

grow well in your climate and particular soils conditions. 

Interceptor Drain 

Excavate trench into impermeable soil layer. Lay geotextile into trench. Place gravel into trench and extend gravel 

height to the maximum anticipated water level. Overlap 

geotextile on top of gravel. Backfill with excavated soil. 

Rock Walls 

Rock walls are essentially gravity walls made of stacked 

large rock. They primarily provide erosion protection and 

limited earth support. Slope, rock depth and wall height 

are critical to the stability of rock walls. Therefore, they 

should generally be limited to 15 feet or less in height 

and should be installed by professional rockery landscape 

installers. Engineers should design higher walls. 
	 	

	 	 	 	

	 	 	

	 	

	 	

	 	 	 	

	 	 	 	

Insurance - Mudflow 

is covered by flood 

insurance policies from 

the	national Flood 

insurance Program. 

Flood insurance can be 

purchased through a local 

insurance agency. 

 

Mitigation ideas |	 41 

Concrete Retaining Walls 

Concrete retaining walls can be constructed to withstand 

a large variety of structural loading conditions. They are 

particularly useful in steep situations where protection is 

needed close to the top or base of a slope. The strength of 

the retaining wall is highly dependent upon the strength 

of the materials it is made of and the manner in which 

they are put together. Because of the design detail required 

for each situation a structural or geotechnical engineer 

should be consulted when a concrete retaining wall is going to be used. 

More Permanent Solutions 

Major problems require major hazard mitigation and 

repairs. The best and easiest cure is to avoid the hazardous 

Topsoil and 

vegetation layer 

Fabric 

barrier to 

prevent mud 

migration 

Rock fill 

to permit 

percolation 

of water 

Recommend min 

6" ABS perforated 

drainage pipe to 

conduct water away 

from base of wall 

Topsoil and 

vegetation layer 

Engineered Concrete 

Retaining Wall 

Well Draining 

Soil (IE: sand) 

sites. Urban population pressures increase the uses of 

marginal building sites requiring greater investment in 

stabilization measures. Steep, weak hillslope areas require 

increased code and ordinance controls to reduce risks to 

homeowners. Professional site investigations by both a 

technical engineer and an engineering geologist have been 

shown to reduce landslide damage over 95%. Technical 

solutions can greatly reduce the risks. But, private 

insurance or government hazard programs do not protect 

the homeowner at this time. 

Serious problems require serious help. Hillside flooding, 

debris flows, erosion, and sliding often generate greater 

damage than the homeowner can manage on his/her own. 

Serious problems require specialized professional expertise 

of registered civil engineers with geotechnical specialist 

and registered engineering geologists. 

Warning! 

If your house is in danger of landslide damage, protect 

people first and EVACUATE IMMEDIATELY! 

Danger Signs Include: 

♦	 Rapid water or slurry flow impacting house. 

♦	 In steep terrain; if flow stops or is irregular, evacuate 

fast! Debris-dam bursts occur very quickly. 

♦	 House cracks actively opening. 

♦	 House making noises. 

♦	 Walls or floors tilting. 

♦	 Ground cracks opening under house. 

♦	 Any portion of house falling away. 

Serious problems require professional assistance. For help 

with major hazards, consult a licensed building 
42 	 	| Protecting Your Home	and Property From Flood 	damage 	 	 	 	 	

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

10	The National Flood	insurance Program
 

and Building in the Floodplain
 

What Is the National Flood Insurance 

Program? 

The National Flood Insurance Program (NFIP) is a federal 

program enabling property owners and renters to purchase 

flood insurance. It is based on an agreement between your 

community and the federal government. The agreement 

states that if your community adopts and enforces floodplain management regulations which at least meet minimum federal requirements, the federal government will 

make flood insurance available in your community. 

How Do I Know If I’m in the Floodplain? 

The floodplain is identified as a Special Flood Hazard Areas 

(SFHA) in your community’s Flood Insurance Study and 

the accompanying Flood Insurance Rate Maps (FIRMs) 

published by FEMA. Your community’s building officials 

or floodplain administrators have these documents available for you to see. The flood level shown for these SFHA 

has a 1% chance of being equalled or exceeded in any one 

year. That translates into a 26% chance of flooding over 

a typical 30-year mortgage period as compared to a 1% 

chance of fire damage over the same period. 

What Is Substantial Damage and 

Substantial Improvement? 

Substantial damage is damage of any origin to a structure 

where the cost of restoring the structure to its before damage condition would equal or exceed fifty percent (50%) 

percent of its pre-disaster value. Substantial Improvement 

means any reconstruction, rehabilitation, addition or other 

improvement of a structure, the cost of which exceeds fifty 

percent (50%) of the market value of the structure before 

the start of construction of the improvement. 

When Does It Affect Me? 

The NFIP requires participating communities to regulate through building permits any new or substantially 

improved structures and to monitor and identify any 

substantially damaged structures as a result of a disaster 

within the community’s floodplain areas. Participating 

communities adopt an ordinance requiring new buildings 

to be elevated at or above the Base Flood Elevation (BFE) 

within the identified floodplain. Non-residential buildings 

have the option of being dry flood proofed. Existing buildings that are substantially damaged or improved (50% or 

more) must be elevated or floodproofed to meet the same 

building code standard as a new building. When you ap-
Mitigation ideas |	 	 	 43 

ply for a building permit, you will be informed whether 

or not you are in a floodplain and what further steps are 

required to repair or reconstruct your building if you are 

within this defined area. If your building was flooded but 

not substantially damaged there is a wide range of inexpensive measures described in this booklet that can help 

you reduce future flood damage. 

How High Will I Have to Elevate? Or 

Floodproof? 

The elevation or floodproofing requirement is based upon 

the BFE as indicated in the Flood Insurance Study of your 

community. This elevation may or may not be comparable 

to the last major flood. Though you had ten feet of water 

in your home during the last flood that may not mean 

you will need to elevate or floodproof to that height. Your 

community’s building official can assist you in determining the elevation requirement for your structure. 

What Happens If I Refuse to Comply? 

Participating communities in the NFIP, agree to enforce its 

floodplain regulations. If you do not obtain a permit and 

do not elevate or floodproof when required, your community could take legal action against you. This may include 

stopping the development, revoking the permit, imposing 

a fine, or withholding a certificate of occupancy. If the 

structure is in violation of the regulations, flood insurance 

premiums could be extremely costly, possibly making the 

structure difficult to sell. Non-compliance could jeopardize your community’s continued participation in the 

NFIP. Federally secured loans and federal disaster assistance are restricted in communities not participating in the 

NFIP that contain SFHA which have been identified on a 

FIRM or Flood Hazard Boundary Map (FHBM) for at least 

one year prior to the disaster declaration. Additionally, 

structures located in the floodplain which are not elevated 

or floodproofed as required pose a threat to the health and 

safety of the occupants. 

What If I Have More Questions? 

Your building and floodplain management officials are 

responsible for implementing the requirements of the local 

floodplain management ordinance, including the substantial damage provisions. Following a disaster declaration, 

the requirements pertaining to substantial damage will be 

presented to your community officials in detail at meetings held in various locations in the state. FEMA will work 

with building officials to help identify structures which 

may qualify as substantially damaged. In addition, FEMA 

will provide technical assistance to local building officials 

concerning the repair or reconstruction of substantially 

damaged structures. 

Visit www.floodsmart.gov to rate your 

property's flood risk, estimate premiums and 

find an agent near you. 

An♦official♦site♦of♦the♦National♦Flood♦Insurance♦Program
44 	 	| Protecting Your Home	and Property From Flood 	damage 	 	 	 	 	

 

	 	

 

 

11	Flood	insurance: A Good	investment
 

Flood Insurance is a good investment for property owners 

and renters. A Flood Insurance Policy: 

♦	 Covers almost all flooding conditions. 

♦	 Cannot be denied because of a structure’s location in a 

floodplain or its flood history. Will provide up to $500 

to cover the cost of moving your possessions to higher 

ground - including moving a mobile home. 

♦	 Will cover replacement costs for primary single-family 

residences with full coverage. 

♦	 Will cover both structures and contents, if insured for 

both. 

♦	 Can pay a claim or partial claim within days of the disaster even without a Presidential Disaster Declaration. 

♦	 Premium can be reduced if appropriate mitigation 

measures are taken. 

♦	 Will pay to repair the flood-damaged part of your 

building or contents in accordance with your policy 

terms and conditions. 

♦	 Has a deductible, very much like other insurance policies. 

♦	 On policies effective June 1, 1997 and later, and under 

specific conditions, will pay for additional costs for 

retrofitting to meet LOCAL codes. 

Flood Insurance is available only to residents of communities participating in the National Flood Insurance Program 

(NFIP). For general information about flood insurance and 

to learn if your community is participating in the NFIP, 

call 1-800-427-4661. 

If items such as your furnace, water heater, electrical fuse 

box, or other key elements were damaged consider using 

the mitigation techniques in this book to reduce future 

flood damage. If undertaken at the time you are repairing 

damage, or making some other major renovation to your 

home, these retrofitting measures do not greatly increase 

the cost of repairs. 

If there is a Presidential Declaration, other sources of 

funds may be available for mitigation. You may be eligible 

for a Minimal Home Repair grant, a Small Business Administration disaster loan, or Individual and Family Grant 

Program assistance. Ask those program officials about 

additional mitigation assistance to reduce future flood 

damage to the items they are helping to repair or replace. 

Information on these and many other funding sources is 

available at a Disaster Recovery Center (DRC). The location 

of the DRC in your area is available through the local news 

media—newspapers, radio and television—and through 

the Federal and State Community Relations personnel canvassing the disaster area. 

Flooded? Here’s What to Do: 

If you experience flood damage and are covered by flood insurance, these important steps will help you when filing 

your flood insurance claim. 

1.	� Save as many damaged articles as possible. If you must throw items out, take pictures to document your 

losses. 

2.	� Contact your insurance agent right away. Once your insurance agent has your claim: 

•		 The agent will file a Notice of Loss. 

•		 An adjuster will be assigned to your case. 

•		 Once the loss has been adjusted, a Proof of Loss will be submitted, and payment can be made. Partial payment can be made to claimants upon submission of a partial Proof of Loss. 
Mitigation ideas |	 	 	 45 
   

46 | Protecting Your Home	and Property From Flood 	damage 

FEMA No. P­805

Catalog No. 10354­1

FEMA

U. S. DEPARTMENT

OF

HOMELAND SECURITY