Repairing Your Flooded

Home

FEMA P-234 / October 2010

U. S. DEPARTMENT

OF

HOMELAND SECURITY

FEMA
Flood Safety

Do not walk through flowing water. Drowning is the number one cause of flood deaths. Most drownings occur 

during flash floods. Six inches of moving water can knock you off your feet. Use a pole or stick to make sure that 

the ground is still there before you go through an area where the water is not flowing.

Do not drive through a flooded area. More people drown in their cars than anywhere else. Don’t drive around 

road barriers; the road or bridge may be washed out.

Stay away from power lines and electrical wires. Electrocution is also a major killer in floods. Electrical currents can travel through water. Report downed power lines to your utility company or local emergency manager.

Turn off your electricity when you return home. Follow the instructions in Step 2 on page 4. Some appliances, 

such as television sets, can shock you even after they have been unplugged. Don’t use appliances or motors that 

have gotten wet unless they have been taken apart, cleaned, and dried.

Watch for animals, especially snakes. Small animals that have been flooded out of their homes may seek shelter 

in yours. Use a pole or stick to seek, poke, and turn items over and scare away small animals.

Look before you step. After a food, the ground and floors are covered with debris, including broken bottles and 

nails. Floors and stairs that have been covered with mud can be very slippery.

Be alert for gas leaks. Use a flashlight to inspect for damage. Don’t smoke or use candles, lanterns, or open flames 

unless you are sure that the gas has been turned off and the area has been aired out. Carbon monoxide exhaust 

kills. Use a generator or other gasoline-powered machine outdoors. The same goes for camping stoves. Fumes from 

charcoal are especially deadly; only cook with charcoal outdoors.

Clean everything that got wet. Floodwaters pick up sewage and chemicals from roads, farms, factories, and storage buildings. Spoiled food and flooded cosmetics and medicines are health hazards. When in doubt, throw them 

out.

Take good care of yourself. Recovering from a flood is a big job. it is tough on both the body and the spirit. And 

the effects a disaster has on you and your family may last a long time. Read Step 1 on page 1 on how to recognize 

and care for anxiety, stress, and fatigue.

Issued in furtherance of the International Decade 

for Natural Disaster Reduction
i

Repairing Your Flooded Home

Flood Safety Precautions .............................................. Inside Front Cover

Step 1. Take Care of Yourself First ..................................................................1

Protect yourself and your family from anxiety, stress, and fatigue, as well as 

health hazards that follow a flood.

Step 2. Give Your Home First Aid ..................................................................4

Once it is safe to go back in, protect your home and contents from further 

damage.

Step 3. Get Organized .................................................................................11

Some things are not worth repairing and some things may be too complicated 

or expensive for you to do by yourself. A recovery plan can take these things 

into account and help you make the most of your time and money.

Step 4. Dry Out Your Home ........................................................................14

Floodwaters damage materials; leave mud, silt, and unknown contaminants; 

and promote the growth of mildew. You need to dry your home to reduce these 

hazards and the damage they cause.

Step 5. Restore Your Utilities ........................................................................20

The rest of your work will be much easier if you have heat, electricity, clean 

water, and sewage disposal.

Step 6. Cleanup ..........................................................................................24

The walls, floors, closets, shelves, contents, and any other flooded parts of your 

home should be thoroughly washed and disinfected.

Step 7. Check on Financial Assistance ...........................................................28

Voluntary agencies, businesses, insurance, and government disaster programs 

can help you through recovery.

Step 8. Rebuild and Floodproof ....................................................................32

Take your time to rebuild correctly and make improvements that will protect 

your home from damage by the next flood.

Step 9. Prepare for the Next Flood ................................................................40

Protect yourself from the next flood with flood insurance, a flood response plan, 

and community flood protection programs. This step also includes sources to 

contact for additional assistance.

Index ...........................................................................................................48

Important Phone Numbers ............................................ Inside Back Cover

Contents
ii

Repairing Your Flooded Home 

This information is published by the Federal Emergency Management 

Agency (FEMA) and the American Red Cross (ARC) to help flooded property 

owners. It is designed to be easily copied. Permission to reproduce all or any 

section of this material is hereby granted and encouraged. 

Copies of this book are available from your local Red Cross chapter or by 

writing:

FEMA Distribution Center

4440 Buckeystown Pike

Frederick, MD 21704

Copies of this book are also available by calling: 1-800-480-2520.

About This Book
iii

Repairing Your Flooded Home

Following a Flood

This book gives step-by-step 

advice you can use to clean up, rebuild, and get help after a flood. Before you start, read the flood safety 

precautions on the inside front cover 

of this document and review the 

nine steps that are summarized in 

the Table of Contents.

Your home and its contents may 

look beyond hope, but many of 

your belongings can be restored. If 

you do things right, your flooded 

home can be cleaned up, dried out, 

rebuilt, and reoccupied sooner than 

you think. While you are doing the 

job ahead, you should remember 

these three important points:

1. Play it safe. The dangers are not 

over when the water goes down. 

Read the flood safety precautions 

on the inside front cover of this 

document. Your home’s foundation may have been weakened, 

the electrical system may have 

shorted out, and floodwaters may 

have left behind things that could 

make you sick. Many flooded 

items, such as wallboard and 

mattresses, will hold mud and 

contamination forever. When in 

doubt, throw it out. Don’t risk 

injury or infection.

2. Ask for help. Many people can 

do a lot of the cleanup and repairs discussed in this book. But 

if you have technical questions 

or do not feel comfortable doing 

something, get professional help. 

If there is a federal disaster declaration, a telephone “hotline” will 

often be publicized to provide information about public, private, 

and voluntary agency programs 

to help you recover from the 

flood. Government disaster programs are there to help you, the 

taxpayer. You’re paying for them; 

check them out. 

3. Floodproof. It is very likely that 

your home will be flooded again 

someday. Floodproofing means 

using materials and practices 

that will prevent or minimize 

flood damage in the future. 

Many floodproofing techniques 

are inexpensive or can be easily 

incorporated into your rebuilding program. You can save a lot 

of money by floodproofing as 

you repair and rebuild (see Step 

8). You should also prepare for 

the next flood by buying flood 

insurance and preparing a flood 

response plan.
iv

This book was prepared for the 

Federal Emergency Management 

Agency (FEMA) under Contract 

Number EMW-89-C-3024 and 

EMW-91- K-3738. 

FEMA and the American Red 

Cross gratefully acknowledge the 

thoughtful assistance provided by 

the many individuals who reviewed 

this book. Reviewers included repair 

and reconstruction contractors, 

mental health professionals, sociologists, researchers, disaster assistance 

specialists, insurance experts, underwriters, structural engineers, public 

health agents, floodplain managers, 

emergency managers, education 

specialists, editorial experts, and 

graphic designers.

Acknowledgments

Repairing Your Flooded Home 
1

You and your family have been through a disaster. Your life has 

been turned upside down, and it 

will take time for things to return to 

normal. Take a few minutes to review 

the flood safety precautions listed on 

the inside front cover of this document. 

Also, you should watch out for symptoms of anxiety, stress, and fatigue. 

With all the cleanup and repair 

jobs awaiting you, it may seem odd 

to spend the first chapter of a flood 

recovery book talking about emotional issues. But a disaster can do 

damage beyond the obvious destruction and debris you see everywhere. 

You should recognize that the flood 

can take its toll on you as well as 

your property. This first section is 

designed to remind you that you 

need to look after yourself and your 

family as you focus on the obvious 

tasks of cleanup and recovery. Your 

hidden enemy is stress. Watch for it.

Care for Yourself

Your body reacts to stress in many 

ways. You may expect to experience 

one or more of the warning signs 

as you deal with the flooding and 

recovery. Your body is just reminding you that times are difficult. 

Reactions to stress are common and 

usually temporary. Need some relief? 

Here are some steps you can take to 

relieve your tensions.

Keep the family together. Even 

in bad times, togetherness provides 

mutual support for all members. 

Discuss your problems. Talk to 

family and friends. Share your anxieties. Let others talk to you to help 

release tension. Crying is a natural 

response to a disaster. It’s also a great 

way to release pent-up emotions.

Rest often and eat well. You are 

more likely to suffer from stress and 

health problems when you are weak. 

Being active helps, but don’t overdo 

it. Your body must have proper rest 

and nourishment for you to keep 

going.

Set a manageable schedule. You 

have a million things to do, but you 

can’t do everything at once. Make 

a list and do jobs one at a time. 

Establish a schedule to clean up and 

rebuild. Following the steps in this 

booklet will help you. Try to return 

to your pre-flood routines as quickly 

as possible. Routines give you something predictable to depend upon.

Watch for signs of stress. You 

have just been through a disaster 

and the recovery period can be long, 

hard, and chaotic. Don’t be surprised if you experience tension or 

see signs of stress in family members. Often other people will notice 

problems more readily than you do. 

Listen to them.

Seek help. If you cannot shake 

feelings of despair or other telltale 

signs of stress, get professional help. 

Special outreach programs and crisis 

counseling are often set up following 

a disaster because so many people 

need help to cope with their 

1

STEP

Take Care of Yourself First

Warning Signs of Stress

•	 Short tempers, frequent arguments

•	 Greater consumption of alcohol

•	 Smoking more than usual

•	 Getting upset over minor 

irritations

•	 Difficulty sleeping, bad dreams

•	 Aches, pains, stomach problems

•	 Apathy, loss of concentration

•	Depression

1

STEP

Take Care of Yourself First
2

1

STEP

Take Care of Yourself First 

situation. Call the Red Cross at 

1-202-303-5000 for programs available in your area.

Floodproof as you rebuild. 

People who are prepared ahead of 

time are better able to deal with 

disasters. Getting ready for the next 

flood can give you a sense of control 

over the future. Besides, floodproofing will be a definite improvement 

to your property.

Care for Your Children

Watch your children closely. You 

can expect to see them display fear 

or symptoms of stress.

Fear is a normal reaction to any 

danger that threatens a person’s wellbeing. Because their daily routine 

has been interrupted, children may 

experience considerable anxiety 

and fear. Those feelings are real and 

natural. You can help your children 

deal with the disaster by keeping in 

mind the following points.

Try to keep the family together. Make an effort to establish 

normal family routines. Include 

children in cleanup activities. Children need and want to be important 

parts of the family.

Listen to what children say. 

Encourage them to talk or otherwise 

express their feelings. Teenagers may 

need to talk with other teenagers.

Explain the disaster factually.

Children have vivid imaginations 

and what they don’t understand can 

make them fearful. Knowing the 

facts can help children deal better 

with the disaster.

Reassure children. Show them 

through words and actions that life 

will return to normal. Touching and 

holding are important.

Hugs help. Try to find or replace 

pets or favorite toys.

Be understanding. Avoid scolding children for things that might be 

flood-related, such as bed wetting, 

thumb sucking, or clinging to you. 

Remember, they are also going 

through a rough time.

Take care of yourself. Your children reflect your fears and worries. 

If you take care of yourself, you will 

be better able to help your children 

cope.

Stay Healthy

Infants, pregnant women, 

and people with health problems 

should avoid the flooded area 

until cleanup is complete. Small 

children tend to put things in their 

mouths. Pregnant women need to 

be cautious to avoid injury and exposure to disease. People with health 

problems are more likely to get sick 

or be injured.

The Red Cross can help you replace medicine or lost prescriptions 

after a disaster.

Your body is used to being clean. 

When you work in an area that has 

been flooded, you will be exposed to 

dangerous chemicals and germs that 

you are not used to and can make 

you very sick.

Wash your hands with soap 

and water, thoroughly and often.

This is especially important before 

handling food, eating, or smoking. 

If possible, use an antibacterial soap 

on your hands. Avoid biting your 

nails.

Confirm that the water is clean 

and safe. Don’t drink it or wash 

dishes until you’re sure (see Step 5).

Helping Children

•	Keep the family together

•	Listen to them

•	Explain what happened

•	Reassure them

•	Be understanding

•	Take care of yourself
3

Disinfect dishes and all items 

that floodwaters touched. Instructions for cleaning and disinfecting 

appliances and household items are 

covered in Step 6.

Don’t hurt yourself. Items are 

much heavier when wet. Don’t try 

to move large objects by yourself. 

Unfortunately, injuries, especially 

back injuries, are a common side effect of cleaning up after a flood.

Watch out for fatigue. When 

your body is tired, you are more 

prone to accidents. Set a realistic 

schedule for the work you will do 

each day.

Be safe around poisons. Many 

of the products you will use to 

clean, disinfect, and repair your 

home are poisons. Read and follow label instructions and keep all 

chemical products out of the reach 

of children. Have the number for 

the National Capital Poison Control 

Center (1-800-222-12222) posted 

by your telephone and call right 

away if anyone is poisoned.

Report health hazards. Tell the 

Health Department about animal 

carcasses, rats, dangerous chemicals, 

and similar hazards on your property.

Be patient. Above all, try to 

be patient with your family, your 

neighbors, the volunteer agency 

personnel, and local, state, and 

federal authorities. Remember that 

many others are in the same situation you are in, and it may take time 

for everyone to get service. You may 

have to wait your turn.

Staying Healthy

•	Wash up frequently

•	Make sure the water is safe

•	Disinfect everything

•	Don’t overdo it

•	Report health hazards

1

STEP

Take Care of Yourself First
4

2

STEP

Give Your Home First Aid 

STEP 2 Give Your Home First Aid

I t is dangerous to go back into your home because the flood may have 

caused structural, electrical, and other 

hazards. After you have made things 

safe, take steps to protect your home 

and contents from further damage.

Most of the information in this 

section assumes that the person doing the work has experience in construction and electrical repair. If you 

do not have experience in construction 

and electrical repair, do not try to do 

this work yourself. Hire a qualified 

contractor or an electrician. It is still 

a good idea to read the information 

in this book so you will have a better 

understanding of the jobs ahead, no 

matter who does them.

Even if you have some experience with construction and electrical 

work, do not attempt any job if you 

feel uncertain about the right thing to 

do or you wonder if the job is beyond 

your skill or physical strength. Read 

the instructions in this book all 

the way through before you start. 

Gather your tools and supplies, and 

make sure you have enough help.

There is plenty of work to go 

around after a flood. Do only those 

jobs you can do well and without 

injuring yourself. If you cannot afford to get professional help, check 

with your local Red Cross chapter, 

your local emergency management 

agency, or your building department 

to see if there are any volunteer 

programs available to you.

This section is designed for those 

who have experience in construction 

and electrical repair. If you are uncertain about these steps, contact a 

professional such as a licensed home 

repair contractor or an electrician.

Make Sure It is Safe to Go 

Back

Some floods have more than one 

crest or peak. Even though the water 

looks like it’s going down, it may 

rise again and trap you. Stay tuned 

to your radio or TV to find out if 

and when you can go back home. 

If you are not sure whether you can 

return, contact your local emergency 

manager.

Read the flood safety precautions 

listed on the inside front cover of 

this document. Each year about 150 

people die because of floods. Many 

of those fatalities are due to electrocution or other accidents that occur 

after the floodwaters have gone 

down. Have someone with you when 

you check your home and do repairs. 

Dress for the task—wear sturdy 

shoes and gloves.

Things You Will Need When It 

is Safe to Return Home

❏ Flashlight

❏ First aid kit

❏ Battery-operated radio

❏ Waterproof boots or waders

❏ Safety clothing, such as a hard hat 

and gloves

❏ Boots or shoes with hard soles

A Note About Portable 

Generators

Portable generators can be a big 

help if you are without power. But 

remember:

•	Connect appliances one at a time 

to the generator. Never hook a generator directly to your household 

wiring yourself. Only a qualified 

electrician can do this.

•	 Only use generators outdoors. 

They give off carbon monoxide 

fumes.

•	 Avoid using extension cords with 

generators. If you must use them, 

check them often to make sure 

they have not become hot.
5

❏ Dust mask

❏ Camera or video camera to record 

damage

❏ Tools: crowbars, hammers, saws, 

pliers, crescent wrenches, 

screwdrivers, etc.

❏ Drinking water

❏ Trash bags

❏ A wooden stick for turning 

things over, scaring away snakes 

and small animals, and moving 

electrical wires

❏ Cleaning supplies

Note: Do not use candles before, 

during, or after a flood. Candles can 

easily tip over or invite child fire-play.

Check Your Home Before You 

Go In

If there is standing water next 

to the outside walls of your home, 

don’t go in. You won’t be able to tell 

if the building is safe or structurally sound. Before you go in, walk 

carefully around the outside of your 

home and check for loose power 

lines and gas leaks. You will know 

there is leaking gas by the putrid, 

distinct odor that is added to gas to 

let people know gas is leaking. If you 

find downed lines or leaks, call your 

utility company.

Check the foundation for cracks 

or other damage. Examine porch 

roofs and overhangs to be sure they 

still have all their supports.

Look for gaps between the steps 

and the home. If you see obvious 

damage, have a building inspector 

check the home before you go in. 

Some communities require official 

inspections for all buildings after a 

flood.

If any supports or portions of the 

foundation wall are missing or the 

ground has washed away, the floor 

is not safe. If you have any doubts 

about safety, contact a contractor 

before going in. Proceed very carefully.

Turn off the electricity

Electricity and water don’t mix. 

Turn the power off at your home! 

Even if the power company has 

turned off electricity to the area, you 

must still make certain your home’s 

power supply is disconnected. You 

don’t want the power company to 

turn it on without warning while 

you’re working on it.

The electricity must be turned off 

at the main breaker box or fuse box. 

Your utility company may have removed your electric meter. This does 

not always turn off the power. 

If you have to step in water to get 

to your electric box, call an electrician. Simply removing the electric 

meter does not always turn off the 

power. If you can get to your electric 

box without going through or standing in water, you can turn off the 

power yourself (see box).

Remember that if the electrical 

or gas controls are inside the home, 

do not turn them off until you can 

safely enter your home.

Turn off the gas

Gas appliances and pipes may 

have moved or broken during the 

flood, creating a gas leak. If you suspect a leak or smell gas, leave your 

home immediately and call the gas 

company from a neighbor’s home. 

How to Turn Off the Power

Fuse Boxes

1. Stand on a dry spot.

2. If your box has a handle on the 

side, use a dry wooden stick or 

pole to pull the handle to OFF.

3. Use the stick to open the door.

4. Carefully pull out the main fuses. 

Use a dry wooden stick.

5. Unscrew and remove each circuit 

fuse

Breaker Boxes

1. Stand on a dry spot.

2. Use a dry wooden stick or pole 

to open the door.

3. Use the stick to push the main 

breaker switch to OFF.

4. Use the stick to turn each circuit 

breaker to OFF

2

STEP

Give Your Home First Aid
6

2

STEP

Give Your Home First Aid 

Leave the door open and, if the gas 

meter is outside, turn off the gas.

If your have gas appliances that 

were flooded, you will need to clean 

the mud out of the pilot and the 

burners. But first, you must turn off 

the gas.

There is a valve next to the gas 

meter. If the valve handle is parallel 

to the pipe, the gas is on. You may 

need a pair of pliers or a wrench to 

turn the valve. Turn it 90 degrees 

(a quarter turn) so the handle is 

perpendicular to the pipe to shut off 

the gas.

Some gas meter valves will have 

a hole in the handle. This hole lines 

up with a hole in the valve body 

when the gas is shut off. (The gas 

company uses the hole to lock or 

seal the valve closed when the building is vacant.) To be sure the gas is 

off, write down the numbers on all 

the dials in the meter. Check the 

dials at least 5 minutes later. If the 

numbers have changed, the valve 

is not closed. Gas is still flowing. 

Telephone your utility company for 

help and keep clear of the area until 

the gas has stopped flowing.

If you have a fuel oil or propane 

tank, it may have floated and broken 

the connecting pipes. Even an underground tank can float. Turn off 

the fuel valve at the tank and follow 

the instructions in Step 5 before you 

turn the fuel back on.

Go Inside Carefully

If the door sticks and has to be 

forced open, it is probably swollen. If it only sticks at the bottom, 

it can be forced open. If it sticks at 

the top, your ceiling may be ready 

to fall. You can force the door open, 

but wait outside the doorway for a 

minute where you will be protected 

if something falls.

If the door won’t open easily, it 

may be easier for you to enter your 

home through a window. Look carefully at the ceiling before you go in 

to be sure it is not ready to fall.

Do not smoke or use candles, gas 

lanterns, or other open flames in your 

home. Air out your home completely—there may be explosive gas.

Check the ceiling for signs of 

sagging. If there was a lot of wind 

and rain or if the flood was very 

deep, your ceiling may be holding 

water. Wet plaster or wallboard is 

very heavy and dangerous if it falls. 

If the ceiling is sagging, do the following before you go in:

1. Make a poker by attaching a nail 

or other pointed object to the 

end of a long stick. (You might 

hammer a finish nail into the 

end of a broomstick.)

Safety Checklist

•	 Wait for the water to go down

•	 Report downed power lines

•	 Report gas leaks

•	Check for structural damage

•	Turn off electricity

•	Turn off gas or fuel

OFF
7

2. Stand away from, not under, the 

sag. (Under a doorway is safest.) 

Poke a hole in the ceiling at the 

edge of the sag so any trapped 

water can begin to drain. Do 

not start at the center of the sag 

because the ceiling may collapse 

suddenly.

3. After the water drains, poke another hole, lower down the sag. 

Keep poking holes as you move 

to the lowest point.

4. Tear down the sagging ceiling 

using extreme caution—it’s very 

heavy. You’ll have to replace it 

anyway.

5. Repeat this procedure for any 

room that has sagging ceilings.

Step carefully. Water and mud 

make a floor very slippery. Also 

watch for snakes, other animals, 

loose flooring, holes, and nails.

Check for cabinets and other tall 

pieces of furniture that might be 

ready to fall over. Remove mirrors 

and heavy pictures from walls. They 

will not stay up if the wallboard is 

wet.

Rescue the Most Valuable 

Items

Find and protect the “irreplaceable” valuables such as money, jewelry, insurance papers, photographs, 

and family heirlooms. Wash the 

mud off before the items can dry. 

Put articles in a safe place such as a 

dry second story or a plastic bag, or 

take them to a friend’s home.

Photographs, books, and other 

articles that are easily damaged when 

wet can be frozen and cleaned later 

when you have more time. Wash the 

mud off. Store the articles in plastic 

bags and take them to a friend who 

has electricity. Put them in a frostfree freezer to protect them from 

mildew and further damage until 

you have time to thaw and clean 

them. A photographer or camera 

shop can professionally clean wet 

photographs.

Resist the urge to stop and clean everything you pick up. You need to get 

to work on protecting your home, 

assessing all the damages, and planning your recovery so you can save 

and restore as much as possible. You 

can clean up your belongings after

you have done the more important 

things listed here.

Protect Your Home From 

Further Damage

You need to make sure that 

there will be no more damage from 

rain, wind, or animals. Your flood 

insurance policy may cover some of 

the cost of protecting your home 

from further damage or moving 

the contents to a safe place. (Read 

your policy and ask your agent what 

expenses are covered by your policy.)

2

STEP

Give Your Home First Aid
8

2

STEP

Give Your Home First Aid 

Get fresh air moving through 

your home. Open windows and 

doors if weather permits. This will 

reduce the moisture and get rid of 

any gas in the home. Do not try 

to force open a swollen window. 

Instead of breaking glass, remove the 

molding and take the window sash 

out of its frame.

Patch holes. Cover holes in 

the roof, walls, or windows with 

boards, tarps, or plastic sheeting. 

Plastic sheets or trash bags should 

be nailed down with wood strips or 

taped with duct tape to keep them 

from ripping loose. It may not look 

pretty, but you need to do this so 

rain won’t cause any more water 

damage.

Repair sagging floors or roof 

sections. Use 4 x 4s or other heavy 

lumber to brace weak areas. If you’re 

uncertain how to shore up floor or 

ceiling joists, call a contractor.

Remove debris. Tree limbs or 

other trash that may have landed on 

or floated into the home should be 

cleared away.

Check for broken or leaking 

water pipes. If you find any, cut 

off the water supply by turning off 

the valve at your water meter. If you 

can’t find it, call the water company 

for help. Also check floor drains—

they may be clogged with debris.

If the water pipes are not leaking, 

you can use your tap water for hosing and cleaning. But do not drink 

or cook with tap water until it has 

been declared safe. (If you are not on 

a municipal water system, the local 

health department will usually inspect your well and test your water. 

See Step 5.)

Carefully Drain Your 

Basement 

If your basement is flooded, don’t 

be in too big a hurry to pump it out. 

Here’s why.

Water in the ground outside your 

home is pushing hard against the 

outside of your basement walls. But 

the water inside your basement is 

pushing right back.
9

If you drain your basement too 

quickly, the pressure outside the 

walls will be greater than the pressure inside the walls—and that may 

make the walls and floor crack and 

collapse, causing serious damage.

To avoid this situation, follow 

these steps when you pump the 

water out of your basement:

1. Never go into a basement with 

standing water in it unless you 

are sure the electricity is off.

2. After floodwaters are no longer 

on top of the ground, you can 

start pumping the water out 

of the basement. Do not use 

gasoline-powered pumps or generators indoors because gasoline 

engines create deadly carbon 

monoxide exhaust fumes.

3. Pump the water level down 2 to 

3 feet. Mark the level and wait 

overnight.

4. Check the water level the next 

day. If the water went back up, 

it’s still too early to try to drain 

the basement. Wait overnight 

again. Then pump the water 

down 2 to 3 feet again. Check 

the level the next day.

5. When the water stops going 

back up, pump down another 2 

to 3 feet and wait overnight. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until all water 

is pumped out of the basement.

Hose the House and Its 

Contents

The mud left behind by floodwaters contains most of the health 

hazards you will face. It is very 

important to get rid of the mud as 

soon as possible. This is a lot easier if 

it is done before the mud dries out. 

Follow these steps:

1. Shovel out as much mud as possible.

2. Make sure the electricity is turned 

off. Unplug all appliances and 

lamps, remove all light bulbs, 

and remove the cover plates to 

wall switches and outlets that 

got wet. Check with your local 

building department to see if 

your code allows you to disconnect the wiring from the switches and outlets.

If the code does not allow you to 

disconnect them, leave the wires 

connected and pull them out 

of their boxes as shown in the 

drawing. They can be replaced 

during Step 5 by an electrician

Health Precautions

•	Assume that anything touched 

by floodwaters is contaminated

•	Wash hands frequently

•	Disinfect everything floodwaters have touched

2

STEP

Give Your Home First Aid
10

2

STEP

Give Your Home First Aid 

If the code permits, it is probably best to throw away switches 

and outlets that were flooded 

and replace them with new ones 

(see Step 5).

3. Check your water system for 

leaks from pipes that may have 

moved (see Step 5). Even if your 

water supply is not safe to drink, 

it can be used for cleaning the 

home. If you have water, hose 

the home down, inside and out. 

If you have an attachment that 

sprays soap, wash and then rinse 

the walls and floors. Hose the 

furniture and other major items 

that got muddy.

4. Heating and air conditioning 

ducts that got flooded will have 

mud left in them. If you don’t 

clean them out, your system will 

be blowing foul, dusty air that 

contains the same health hazards 

you are trying to get rid of. To 

clean the ducts, remove the vents 

or registers. If possible, remove 

some sections of the ducts in 

the basement or crawlspace to 

give you access to all areas. Then 

thoroughly hose out all the 

ducts.

5. While you hose the walls, thoroughly hose out the electrical 

outlet, switch boxes, and light 

sockets that you opened up. 

Read Step 5 before turning the 

electricity back on.

6. After you hose out the duct work 

to remove the mud, wash it with 

a disinfectant or sanitizer, such as 

the quaternary, phenolic, or pine 

oil based ones. (Check labels for 

the contents and instructions.) 

If your ducts are in a slab or 

are otherwise inaccessible, have 

them cleaned by a professional.

7. Don’t let the water sit on the 

floor for long, especially if your 

floor has particle board or other 

wood product that tends to fall 

apart when wet. Use a mop, “wet 

vac,” or squeegee.
11

Records to Keep

•	Damage to the building

•	Damage to the contents (see 

sample inventory form, next 

page)

•	Receipts for cleanup and restoration expenses, such as materials, labor, and equipment rental, 

and receipts for flood-related 

expenses, such as motel bills. 

(Keep these in one place, like in 

an envelope in your car.)

STEP 3 Get Organized

Before you try to clean up and repair everything, you need to assess 

your damage and develop a recovery 

plan. An organized approach will 

make the best use of your time and 

money. If your structure is substantially damaged, you need to ask yourself if 

you should rebuild at all—it may be 

smarter, safer, and cheaper to relocate. 

If you do rebuild, your recovery plan 

should include the floodproofing measures that can be incorporated with 

repairs and can save you thousands of 

dollars in the future (see Step 8).

Call Your Insurance Agent

You need to tell your agent about 

the damage to your home and 

contents so that your agent can file 

a claim. The sooner you can talk to 

your agent, the sooner your claim 

will be filed and an adjuster will be 

assigned to review your damage. 

How much of your loss is covered 

will depend on your policy. But 

even if you don’t have full coverage, 

your agent may be able to give you 

advice about where to get help with 

cleanup and repairs.

Your property insurance will fall 

into one of three categories:

1. Homeowner’s insurance usually covers losses caused by wind, 

storm, or broken water pipes, 

but not surface flooding. Some 

homeowner’s policies may cover 

basement flooding caused by 

sewer backup or sump pump 

failure.

2. Flood insurance covers most 

losses caused by surface 

floodwater.

3. Wind and hail insurance

covers losses in coastal areas 

from the winds of a hurricane. 

In coastal areas, homeowner’s 

insurance often does not cover 

damage from wind.

Read your insurance policies so 

that you will know what is covered 

and what is not. If your insurance 

covers the damages, your agent will 

tell you when you can expect an 

adjuster to contact you. The adjuster 

will determine the costs to repair 

the damage to your home and your 

belongings. The adjuster will then 

submit those costs to the insurance company for final approval. 

Your agent will also tell you what to 

throw away, and what to set aside 

for the adjuster to review. Find 

out if your insurance covers living 

expenses while your home is being 

repaired. (Flood insurance does not 

cover that cost.)

Start Listing the Damage

List the damage and take pictures 

or videos as you clean up so you 

will have a complete and thorough 

record. Good records are needed for 

insurance claims, applications for 

disaster assistance, and income tax 

deductions.

Some items that are health 

hazards, such as rotting food and 

debris, should be thrown away.

3

STEP

Get Organized
12

3

STEP

Get Organized 

Tell your agent or adjuster that 

you need to get rid of this trash before you throw it out. They should 

tell you what to do so that all of 

your losses can be recorded properly 

by the adjuster. (See page 15 regarding items to discard.) You may be 

told to keep a sample of items such 

as a piece of carpet or upholstery 

to show the value of what you have 

thrown away.

Ask someone to sign your record 

as a witness. If you have flood insurance, you will need to file a Proof 

of Loss form within 60 days of the 

flood (see Step 7). Completing your 

own inventory form will make this 

form easier to complete and will also 

help the adjuster determine the costs 

to repair the damage to your home 

and belongings.

Check for Structural Damage

You need to find out whether 

there is any structural damage to 

your home. (You will probably need 

professional help in making this 

decision.)

Is there evidence of broken or 

cracked basement or foundation 

walls? Are there broken pilings, 

shifted stairs, or slanted floors or 

walls? Any of these things could 

mean that the foundation, floors, or 

walls will have to be totally rebuilt. 

Repair safety hazards such as broken 

pilings or an undermined foundation before you proceed any further. 

Get professional help for any task 

you cannot confidently do yourself.

You will need a building permit 

to repair structural damage. Talk to 

your local building department before you start reconstruction or sign 

any repair contracts. If the damage 

to your home’s structure exceeds 50 

percent of the market value of your 

home, most local building codes will 

require you to elevate it above flood 

levels. Some may not allow you to 

rebuild at all. (For more information 

on building permits, see Step 8.)

Ask the Big Question

Odds are that the area where you 

live will flood again. Before you 

spend a great deal of money and 

effort repairing and rebuilding, ask 

yourself this question:

Do I really want to be 

flooded again?

If you think that you would be 

better off in a different location, talk 

to your local government or disaster 

assistance officials about help in rebuilding where floods can no longer 

damage your home.

There are programs that will buy 

some properties with homes that 

have been destroyed or substantially 

damaged. Other programs give 

financial help to move or elevate 

homes so they are above flood levels. 

See Step 7 for more information on 

floodproofing assistance programs.

If you decide to stay, you can still 

make your home less susceptible to 
13

damage from the next flood. Before 

you start repairing and replacing 

things, look at the floodproofing 

measures in Step 8. Floodproofing 

as you repair and rebuild can save 

a great deal of money over time. 

Protecting your home from future 

floods will also add value to your 

property.

Plan Your Recovery

Get organized with a recovery 

plan. A recovery plan is simply a 

list of jobs that need to be done. 

Planning can help you save time and 

money. Doing things in the right 

order will also make everyone feel 

better—you’ll know you are making 

progress without wasting efforts.

To develop a recovery plan, follow these steps:

❏ Make sure it is safe to work in 

your home. You’ll want to go 

back to your home as quickly as 

possible. But you must make sure 

the building is safe and sound 

(see Step 2).

❏ Review the rest of the recovery 

steps in this book. Start making 

lists. Begin with the projects such 

as “replace furnace” and “dry out 

walls.” Write down items you will 

need such as cleaning supplies or 

film and paper for record keeping. If necessary, make plans for a 

place to stay while you clean up.

❏ Decide what you can and can’t 

do. You can save money by doing much of the work described 

in this book as you can. But be 

realistic. Jobs such as propping up 

broken foundations and replacing 

electrical service boxes are best 

left to the professionals. Many 

other jobs may be too involved or 

too heavy for you.

❏ Decide if you need financial 

assistance. If you need to replace 

items or hire a professional and 

you don’t have insurance, there 

may be some voluntary organizations that can help you (see Step 

7). Check your local newspaper 

and radio and TV stations for 

notices about Red Cross, church, 

and government disaster programs.

❏ Check with your mortgage 

holder. If your mortgage holder 

is listed on your insurance policy, 

you cannot cash your insurance claim check without their 

approval. Before you decide on 

repairing and floodproofing, 

make sure that your loan will not 

be affected. The mortgage holder 

may be able to provide financial 

help, such as deferring interest 

payments for a month or two.

❏ Think before you use credit 

cards. Credit cards may be the 

fastest way to handle repair and 

rebuilding expenses, but they are 

also very costly. Their interest 

rates can be up to 2 percent per 

month (24 percent per year). A 

second mortgage or low interest 

government loan is a much less 

expensive way to borrow money 

for home repairs.

❏ Keep talking openly with your 

family. Some of the biggest problems that come with a disaster are 

the mental strain of the loss and 

worries about the future. Work 

together and let everyone know 

what you will be doing in the 

days ahead.

Cleanup and Repair—

 Who Does What?

Jobs a homeowner can usually 

handle by following the steps in this 

book

•	 Sorting contents to be repaired or 

discarded

•	 Drying the ceiling, walls, and floors

•	 Drying and cleaning electrical circuits and boxes (if code allows)

•	 Removing minor debris such as 

branches and trash

•	Checking the gas or oil system

•	 Fixing leaky pipes

•	Checking sewage disposal system

•	Cleaning building and contents

•	Checking sources of financial assistance

•	 Minor floodproofing projects such 

as building an earthen wall or raising appliances

Jobs that usually require services of a 

professional

•	 Structural repairs

•	 Restoring electrical service

•	 Wallboard taping and finishing

•	Checking the water system to 

ensure that it is safe to drink. (That 

service is often free from the local 

health department.)

•	 Major debris removal such as tree 

cutting

•	 Electrical and gas appliance and 

motor cleaning and repair

•	Cleaning leather, furs, upholstered 

furniture, and expensive carpeting

•	 Major floodproofing projects such 

as moving or elevating a home

3

STEP

Get Organized
14

4

STEP

Dry Out Your Home 

4

STEP

Dry Out Your Home

Floodwaters can affect a home in three ways:

1. The water damages materials. 

Wallboard will disintegrate if it 

remains wet too long; wood can 

swell, warp, or rot; and electrical 

parts can short out, malfunction, 

and cause fires or shock.

2. Mud, silt, and unknown contaminants in the water not only get 

everything dirty, they also create a 

health hazard. 

3. Dampness promotes the growth of 

mildew, a mold or fungus that can 

grow on everything.

The following steps work on all 

three of these problems. It is very 

important that they be followed in 

order.

Lower the Humidity

Everything will dry more quickly 

and clean more easily if you can 

reduce the humidity in the home. 

There are six ways to lower the humidity and stop the rot and mildew. 

But you’ll have to delay using some 

methods if you have no electricity. 

(Read Step 5 before you attempt to 

restore the utilities.)

❏ Open up the house. If the 

humidity outside is lower than 

indoors, and if the weather 

permits, open all the doors and 

windows to exchange the moist 

indoor air for drier outdoor air. 

Your body will tell if the humidity is lower outdoors. If the sun 

is out, it should be drier outside. 

If you have a thermometer with a 

humidity gauge, you can monitor 

the indoor and outdoor humidity. On the other hand, when 

temperatures drop at night, an 

open home is warmer and will 

draw moisture indoors. At night 

and other times when the humidity is higher outdoors, close up 

the house.

❏ Open closet and cabinet doors. 

Remove drawers to allow air 

circulation. Drawers may stick 

because of swelling. Don’t try 

to force them. Speed drying by 

opening up the back of the cabinet to let the air circulate. You 

will probably be able to remove 

the drawers as the cabinet dries 

out.

❏ Use fans. Fans help move the air 

and dry out your home. Do not 

use central air conditioning or the 

furnace blower if the ducts were 

under water. They will blow out 

dirty air, that might contain contaminants from the sediment left 

in the duct work. Clean or hose 

out the ducts first (see Step 2).

❏ Run dehumidifiers. Dehumidifiers and window air conditioners 

will reduce the moisture, especially in closed up areas.

❏ Use desiccants. Desiccants 

(materials that absorb moisture) 

are very useful in drying closets 

or other enclosed areas where air 

cannot move through.
15

Desiccants like those listed below 

are usually available at hardware, 

grocery, or drug stores.

•	 Chemical dehumidifier packs 

used for drying boats and damp 

closets.

•	 Cat litter made of clay.

•	 Calcium chloride pellets used for 

melting ice in the winter. Hang 

pellets in a pillow case, nylon 

stocking, or other porous bag. 

Put a bucket underneath to catch 

dripping water. Close the closet 

or area being dried. Be careful. 

Calcium chloride can burn your 

skin. It will also make the air 

salty, so do not use this product 

near computers or other delicate 

equipment.

•	 Call a contractor. There are contractors who specialize in drying 

out flooded buildings. They have 

large fans and dehumidifiers that 

can dry out a home in a few days. 

Look in the yellow pages under 

Fire and Water Damage Restoration or under Dehumidifying. 

Be careful about contractors who 

inflate prices after a disaster or 

request payment in advance.

Be patient. Drying your home 

could take several weeks. Until your 

home is reasonably dry, damage 

caused by mildew and decay will 

continue. The musty odor will 

remain forever if the home is not 

thoroughly dried out well.

Sort Contents and Discard 

Debris

You have three types of contents 

that should go to three different 

places:

•	 things you want to save

•	 things you don’t want to save

•	 garbage

Things you want to save

Move them to a safe, dry place, 

such as the second story or outside. 

The longer they sit in water, the 

more damaged they become. In 

some cases, you may only be able to 

move them to one room while you 

clean the other rooms. Don’t leave 

wood furniture in the sun or it will 

warp when it dries. To save an area 

rug, lay a sheet or some other material on top so the colors will not 

bleed. Promptly clean it.

Things you don’t want to save

Put things you don’t want to save 

outside to dry until the adjuster 

comes to confirm your losses. Take 

pictures or videos and list each item 

for the record. If you are not sure 

whether to throw something out, 

decide if it is worth salvaging by 

checking the information in Step 6.

Garbage

Get rid of food and anything else 

that could spoil or go bad immediately. Don’t let garbage build up. 

Garbage piles will cause yet another 

health hazard by attracting animals 

and insects. If your insurance adjuster has not come, tell your agent 

or adjuster that you need to get rid 

of potential health hazards. That 

person will tell you how to make 

sure that your losses are covered. 

Then throw the stuff out, preferably 

in sealed plastic garbage bags.

Don’t take chances with frozen 

food if electricity went off, unless 

Questions About the 

Safety of Your Food?

Call the USDA Food Safety Hotline:

1-888-674-6854 

Professional home economists will 

answer your questions from 10 a.m. 

to 4 p.m. Eastern Time, Monday 

through Friday.

Items Soaked by 

Floodwater

Should I Throw Them Out?

Usually

Mattresses, pillows, foam rubber, 

large carpets, carpet padding, upholstered couches and chairs, books, 

paper products

Always

Food, cosmetics, medical supplies, 

stuffed animals, baby toys

4

STEP

Dry Out Your Home
16

4

STEP

Dry Out Your Home 

food is still thoroughly frozen and 

contains ice crystals. As a rule, food 

will remain frozen for up to 3 days 

in a closed freezer without power. 

Don’t refreeze thawed food. However, you can cook meat that was 

partially thawed and then refreeze it.

Properly dispose of discarded 

items. Do not burn or bury them. 

There usually will be more frequent 

garbage pickups after a flood. Your 

local radio and TV stations will have 

announcements concerning trash 

pickup schedules and drop-off sites.

How Floodwaters Affect Your 

Home

Once contents and debris have 

been cleared, the next step is to get 

the water out of the ceilings and 

walls. How you drain and dry your 

ceilings and walls depends on of 

what they are made.

Wallboard

Most ceilings and walls are covered with wallboard, especially in 

newer homes. Wallboard will act like 

a sponge, drawing water up above 

the flood level. It becomes very 

fragile if it stays wet for long and 

will fall apart when bumped. When 

the wallboard finally dries, there still 

will be mud and contaminants dried 

inside.

Wallboard that has been soaked 

by floodwater presents a permanent 

health hazard. Therefore, this book 

recommends that you throw out 

flooded wallboard. On the other 

hand, if the wallboard was soaked 

by clean rainwater, it can be dried in 

place with plenty of fresh air moving 

through the area.

Plaster

Plaster will survive a flood better 

than wallboard. It should not have 

to be replaced but it will take a very

long time to dry.

Sometimes the plaster will 

separate from the wood laths as it 

dries. Then the wall will have to be 

removed and replaced.

Insulation

There are three main types of 

insulation and each reacts differently 

to floodwaters. Foam board insulation survives best; it may only need 

to be hosed off.

Fiberglass batts should be discarded if they are muddy. If soaked by 

clean rainwater, remove them so the 

rest of the wall can dry. They can be 

put back in the wall, but it will take 

a very long time to dry.

Cellulose (loose or blown-in 

treated paper) insulation will hold 

water for a long time. It can also 

lose its antifungal and fire retardant 

abilities. Therefore, flooded cellulose 

insulation should be replaced.

Wood

If allowed to dry naturally, wood 

will generally regain its original 

shape. Different layers of laminated 

wood, such as plywood, may dry at 

different rates, causing the layers to 

separate.

Some contaminants will stay in 

the wood pores after it dries, but 

not as much as stays in flooded 

wallboard. Wood studs and sills will 

Water and Wood

Wood always has some water in it, 

but a flood can bring its moisture 

content up to 30 percent. This causes 

swelling. However, if allowed to 

dry naturally, wood will usually go 

back to its original shape. Unlike 

wallboard, wet studs and sills that 

are touched by floodwaters do not 

need to be thrown out. Hollow wood 

doors usually have cardboard spacers 

in the middle that lose their shape 

when wet. Generally, these doors 

come apart after they are flooded and 

need to be replaced.
17

be covered by new wallboard and 

painted, so they are well removed 

from human contact. Therefore, wet 

wood studs and sills do not need to 

be replaced if they are allowed to dry 

properly.

Drain the Ceilings and Walls

Ceilings

Check for sagging ceilings. Drain 

them carefully as shown in Step 2. 

If the floodwaters went above your 

ceiling, you should replace it if it is 

made of wallboard. A plaster ceiling 

will dry eventually but, if it has too 

many cracks or sags, you will have to 

tear it down and replace it. Remove 

any wet insulation in the ceiling to 

allow the joists to dry.

Walls

Remove water trapped within 

your walls. To check for water, take 

off the baseboard. Stick an awl or 

knife into the wall about 2 inches 

above the floor (just above the 2 x 4 

wood sill plate). If water drips out, 

cut or drill a hole large enough to 

allow water to freely drain. (Use a 

hand or cordless drill or saw to avoid 

shock.) If you are going to replace 

the wallboard anyway, you don’t 

have to be neat: use a hammer to 

knock out a hole. 

If your walls are plaster, a knife 

won’t penetrate them. Drill a hole 

above the sill plate to drain the 

water. (Use a hand or cordless drill 

to avoid shock.) Do not use a hammer or chisel on plaster because the 

plaster could shatter.

In a newer home, you may have 

metal sill plates. A metal sill acts as 

a trough at the bottom of the wall 

cavity. Drill a hole at floor level to 

drain the water, using a hand or 

cordless drill.

Repeat the process to drain all 

the wall cavities. Depending on the 

spacing between studs in your walls, 

make a hole every 16 or every 24 

inches. Watch out for the wiring, 

4

STEP

Dry Out Your Home
18

4

STEP

Dry Out Your Home 

which is usually at the same height 

as your electrical outlets. If there is 

wet insulation, you will have to remove the wallboard in order to take 

out all the insulation.

Floodwater soaked wallboard is 

usually removed and thrown away. 

Plaster and paneling can often be 

saved, but you still need to get air 

circulating in the wall cavities to 

dry the studs and sills. Different 

approaches are used for different 

materials.

Wallboard

If floodwaters soaked the wallboard at least 4 feet above the 

floor, you should take down all the 

wallboard and replace it. If the water 

level was less than 4 feet deep, remove the lower 4 feet of wallboard. 

You can fill the gap with 4 x 8 sheets 

installed sideways.

If you have foam board insulation—or no insulation—and the 

wallboard was soaked with clean 

rainwater, you can dry the walls 

without removing the wallboard 

using the technique explained below 

for plaster walls. But you will need 

to remove wet insulation if it is not 

foam board insulation.

Plaster walls

If the plaster or wallboard is clean 

and in good shape, you can drill or 

cut ventilating holes in each wall 

cavity. Place holes low enough so 

they will be covered by the baseboard after the wall dries out. Open 

up the wall on both sides of interior 

walls. For exterior walls, drill or cut 

holes on the inside of the house. 

However, if there is wet insulation, 

you will have to remove the plaster 

or wallboard in order to take out all 

the insulation.

Concrete block

The cavities in a concrete block 

wall will drain on their own. The 

water will not damage the concrete 

like it will wood or wallboard.

Wallcovering

Vinyl wallcovering seals the wall 

and prevents drying. Wallpaper 

paste is a favorite home for mold 

and mildew. For these reasons, you 

should remove all wallcovering that 

got wet and throw it out. If vinyl 

wallcovering is loose on the bottom, 

you may be able to save it by pulling 

it off the wall up to the flood level. 

Clean and reapply it after everything 

dries.
19

Cleaning Floor Coverings

•	 Small throw rugs can be saved and 

cleaned in a washing machine.

•	Indoor-outdoor carpeting can he 

hosed off and hung up to dry.

•	 Large rugs and those with foam 

backing should be discarded. (Usually only valuable carpets are worth 

the cost of professional cleaning.)

•	 After getting wet, wall-to-wall 

carpeting usually will not return 

to its former size and has to be 

thrown away. Therefore, make the 

job easier by cutting it in strips and 

discarding it in pieces that are small 

enough to be carried. Watch out 

for the tack-down strips along the 

wall; they often have nails sticking 

up to hold the carpet down.

•	 A wall-to-wall carpet that was 

soaked by clean rainwater can be 

left in place and dried.

•	Tile, vinyl, and linoleum flooring 

should be removed if it is warped, 

loose, or has a foam rubber pad 

(which should be thrown away).

Paneling

Carefully pry the bottom of 

each panel away from the wall. Use 

something to hold the bottom away 

from the sill so the cavities can drain 

and dry out. You can nail them back 

into shape after they and the studs 

dry out. However, if there is wet 

insulation, you will have to remove 

the paneling in order to take out all 

the insulation.

Dry the Floor

Air needs to circulate around 

flooded floors so they can dry out. 

This means removing the floor covering. Because floodwaters contain 

mud and dirt, most soaked floor 

coverings should be thrown away. 

Keep a piece of all discarded floor 

covering so the adjuster can tell its 

value.

Air also needs to circulate below 

the floor to dry it out. If the crawlspace of your home is flooded, 

pump it out. Remove any plastic 

sheets, vapor barriers, or insulation 

from underneath the floor. (Be sure 

to replace them when the floor and 

foundation are completely dry.)

If a home with a basement was 

flooded over the first floor, remove 

finished basement ceilings, or cut 

or drill holes between all the joists 

to allow circulation. Don’t cut or 

drill near electric lines or pipes. You 

have now reached the stage where 

no more damage should occur to 

your home. Exterior holes have 

been patched, the utilities have been 

turned off, and the drying process 

has started. It may take days or 

weeks, depending on the humidity, 

for all the wood to dry out. You can 

do Steps 5, 6, and 7 while the home 

is drying. However, do not start Step 

8, Rebuild and Floodproof, until the 

home is completely dry.

4

STEP

Dry Out Your Home
20

5

STEP

Restore Your Utilities 

The rest of your work will be much easier if you have heat, electricity, clean water, and sewage disposal. 

However, it may take some time for a 

repair professional to be able to help 

you. Therefore, you should go to Step 6 

and do all the cleaning you can while 

you wait for one or more of these utility systems to be restored.

Gas and Oil Systems

If your furnace, water heater, 

stove, or other gas or oil appliances were flooded to the level of 

the burners, turn off the valve on 

the pipe to the appliance. If they 

were hot when flooded, parts may 

have cracked. Flood insurance and 

federal disaster assistance programs 

will help replace flooded gas and oil 

appliances. If you want to keep a 

gas or oil appliance, have it cleaned 

professionally.

A cracked, plugged, or leaky 

chimney can cause fires or carbon 

monoxide poisoning. Be sure you 

check metal and brick chimneys for 

dirt, debris, and leaks before lighting 

the furnace or a fire.

Gas System

If the gas has been turned off at 

the main valve serving your home, 

you need to have a professional 

restore gas service to your home, 

relight pilot lights, and do a final 

check of the system.

If the gas valve serving only one 

appliance is turned off, then you can 

5

STEP

Restore Your Utilities

relight that appliance. First, make 

sure the room is well-ventilated and 

that there are no open flames (or 

bare electric wires) anywhere.

Then turn on the gas valve. 

Check for leaky pipes. Let the gas 

run for a minute or two to clean any 

air and impurities out of the pipes. 

Then turn the gas off for a minute 

to allow the gas in the air to go away 

before you light the appliance.

Oil System

Make sure your main oil valve is 

turned off. Check your oil pump. 

If it got wet, have the pump professionally checked and cleaned. If you 

want to clean it yourself, see Step 6

Look carefully for any signs of 

leaking oil; if you see any, call a 

professional. Look for signs that the 

pipes or oil tank moved during the 

flood. Oil tanks, even buried ones, 

will float when flooded. After you 

have turned the electricity back on, 

open the main valve and turn the 

pump on. Check for leaky pipes (see 

above).

Propane, L-P, and Butane 

Systems

These fuels are kept in pressurized 

tanks, so there is no electric pump 

to turn on. Check the tanks for 

signs of movement or floating. Then 

follow the instructions above for gas 

systems.

Leaky Pipes

1. Check for leaky fuel pipes by 

smelling for gas. A chemical that 

has a disagreeable, distinctive 

odor is added to natural gas and 

propane to tell you if there is a 

leak. If you have any doubts, have 

a professional check for you. Do 

not use open flames. 

2. Make sure the valve that leads to 

each appliance is closed. 

3. If you find any pipes that moved 

or any area that smells like gas, 

brush soapy water on each pipe 

connection. The pressure in the 

pipes will make bubbles appear 

where there is a leak. 

4. If you find a leak, turn off the 

gas. Unscrew the pipe connection, clean the joint, and apply 

pipe joint compound or pipe tape 

(available at hardware stores) on 

the threads. Screw the pieces back 

together tightly. 

5. Turn on the gas and check the 

connection again with soapy water. If you have a leak, or if you are 

not sure your system is safe, turn 

off the gas and immediately call a 

professional. 
21

Electrical System

Check with your building or 

electrical inspector to see how much 

work you can do on your wiring. 

Many local codes require that a 

licensed electrician do the work, or 

that a municipal inspector check 

the system before you can turn the 

power back on. The electrical system 

should be tackled in two parts: the 

main breaker or fuse box and the 

circuits. If the main box got wet, it 

should be checked and cleaned by 

an electrician before you turn the 

power back on. You should have 

the electrician move your main box 

above flood level for future protection.

Meanwhile, if you are comfortable working with electrical fixtures 

and wiring, you can clean the 

flooded circuits. Otherwise call an 

electrician.

To clean a flooded circuit, follow 

these steps in order:

1. Check the switch at the main 

breaker or fuse box to make sure 

that the power is still off. Take 

out the fuses or switch off the 

breakers to the circuits you will 

be working on.

2. As noted at the end of Step 2, 

everything should be unplugged 

and all light bulbs should be removed. The switches and outlets 

should be out of the wall. Check 

the switches and outlets and 

their boxes for mud and dirt that 

can cause a short or overheating. 

Hose or wash any mud out of 

the boxes.

3. If you see a lot of mud, dirt, 

or saltwater corrosion in the 

switches or outlets, replace them. 

If you want to keep the switches 

and outlets that were flooded, 

rinse them thoroughly in a pail 

of water. Let them dry for at 

least 24 hours.

4. Check the condition of the wire 

that goes to each switch and each 

outlet. Replace any fabric covered wire. Plastic covered wire 

does not need to be removed 

unless it has been flooded with 

saltwater. Aluminum wiring may 

be severely corroded by saltwater, 

so all aluminum wiring that has 

been flooded by saltwater should 

be replaced before proceeding.

5. After everything has dried out, 

check to make sure the fuses are 

still out or the breakers are still 

switched off. Then re-install the 

switches and outlets or install 

new ones.

If your main box was not flooded 

or if it has been cleaned and checked 

by an electrician, you can test each 

circuit once it is cleaned.

To test a cleaned circuit:

1. Make sure nothing is plugged in 

and no wall switches are turned 

on.

2. Install the fuse or turn the breaker 

to “ON.” Install the main fuse 

or turn on the main breaker. 

Some fuse boxes have a main 

switch—a handle on the outside 

of the box that is easier to use 

than taking out and replacing 

the main fuses.

3. If the fuse blows or the breaker 

clicks back to “off,” you have a 

short somewhere. Recheck your 

cleaning and installation work. 

Electrical Safety

•	 Use only the electrically operated 

tools you need, one at a time, to 

avoid overloading a few working 

circuits.

•	If appliances or motors have gotten wet, have them taken apart, 

cleaned, and dried before plugging 

them back in again.

•	 Make sure all appliances are 

properly grounded. This is most 

important if there was damage to 

the wiring from the flood or during 

the cleaning.

•	 Mud or dirt in a grounded outlet 

or adapter may prevent the 

grounding system from working, 

and you could be electrocuted. If 

you are unsure of whether your 

electrical system is properly 

grounded, call an electrician.

•	 When in doubt, call an electrician. 

Electrocution is a major killer in 

floods.

Important

It is very important that your utility 

systems and appliances be turned 

back on the correct way. A leaky 

gas pipe, an ungrounded electrical 

appliance, or contaminated water is 

a serious safety and health hazard. 

If you are not comfortable working 

on your utilities or appliances, call a 

professional.

5

STEP

Restore Your Utilities
22

5

STEP

Restore Your Utilities 

If the fuse or breaker are okay, 

wait 15 minutes and then walk 

around the home. Look for 

sparks or the pungent smell of 

an electrical short. If there are 

any signs of smoking or heating, 

if the fuse blows, or if a breaker 

goes off, turn the power off and 

call an electrician.

4. If there are no signs of problems, 

turn the power off again. Plug 

a lamp or small appliance in an 

outlet on the circuit you just 

tested, or turn on a light switch. 

Be sure that the appliance you 

are using to test each outlet is 

properly working.

5. Turn the power back on and 

check the fuse or breaker.

6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for each 

outlet and wall switch to check 

for shorts or problems.

7. Bathroom and outdoor circuits 

often have a ground fault circuit 

interrupter at the breaker box or 

at a wall outlet. These are very 

sensitive and may keep tripping the circuit off, so you may 

have to be extremely thorough 

in cleaning and drying these 

circuits.

Water Supply

Public water suppliers usually 

provide water soon after the flood. If 

you are unsure of your water supply, 

only use it to hose your home or for 

sanitation purposes (e.g., flushing 

the toilet).

Buy bottled water for drinking if 

you can. Sometimes large water storage tanks called “water buffalos” are 

brought to communities that need 

clean water. They are filled with 

clean drinking water from places 

outside your area and are towed to 

your location, often by National 

Guard or U.S. military personnel.

A “boil order” may be issued in 

your community. If such an order 

has been issued, do the following:

1. Fill a large pot with water from 

the tap.

2. Strain the water through cheesecloth, a sheet, or other clean, 

porous material to remove as 

many solids as you can.

3. Bring the water to a rumbling 

boil and let it boil for at least 5 

minutes.

4. Pour the water back and forth 

between two clean pots. This will 

help it cool and will also add air 

to the water to make it taste better.

5. Let the water cool. After it is 

cool, add 16 drops of liquid 

chlorine bleach per gallon of 

water. Let the water stand a 

half hour. If it gives off a slight 

chlorine smell and looks clear, 

it’s OK to use.

If you do not smell the chlorine 

or if the water is still cloudy, add 

another 16 drops of liquid chlorine bleach and let it stand another 

half hour. If you smell chlorine, it’s 

okay to use. If you have treated it 

again and it still does not smell like 

chlorine, don’t use it for drinking or 

cooking.

Do not cook in pots and pans, or 

use eating utensils, baby blankets, or 

any other items that could go in the 

mouth until they have been washed 

in water that has been tested and approved by your local water supplier 

or health department.
23

Wells. Private wells should be 

pumped until the water is clear. You 

can decide whether water is clear 

enough to hose the home and do 

other cleaning work. Check with the 

local health department for instructions before you drink or cook with 

your well water. Their instructions 

will account for minerals and chemicals that naturally occur in your 

area. The health department should 

be able to advise you about the 

best way to have your water tested 

if necessary. If there are no specific 

instructions from the local health 

department, follow these steps to 

treat your well and water:

1. Open your faucets to pump the 

water out of your well. Let them 

run for at least 15 minutes or 

until you lose pressure.

2. Pour 1 quart of liquid chlorine 

bleach in the well and leave it for 

at least 4 hours. Do not use any 

water during this time.

3. Open all the faucets and let 

them run until you smell chlorine at each faucet.

4. Turn off the faucets and let the 

water sit in the pipes for 2 to 

4 hours. Do not use any water 

during this time.

5. Flush out the system by running 

the taps until you can no longer 

taste or smell the chlorine.

Water Heater. Check your 

water heater. If floodwaters got into 

the gas burner, electrical parts, or 

insulation, it should be replaced. If 

you want to save it, have it cleaned 

and restarted by a professional. Be 

sure to flush clean water through it 

before you wash dishes or clothes 

with hot water.

Sewage Disposal

Public sewers should work soon 

after a flood, but mud and debris 

might clog them. Flush the toilet 

before you use it. If it is clogged, 

check with your local sewer department to see if the problem is in the 

main line. You may need to clean 

out the sewer line from your home 

to the main line.

Septic systems will not work 

until the ground water level is below 

the distribution lines. So be careful 

about flushing the toilet and pouring things down the drain; they may 

not have anywhere to go. Until your 

toilet works, you can line it with a 

plastic trash can liner and dispose of 

the bag following local public health 

recommendations.

Cleanup and Repair— 

Who does what?

If your home will be unheated for 

a few days, and the temperature 

will fall below freezing, you should 

winterize your water pipes so they 

will not freeze and break. A plumber 

can blow out the pipes to make sure 

they are empty. Or you can take the 

following steps to protect your water 

and sewer system from damage due 

to freezing temperatures:

1. Shut off the main water valve. (It 

is usually found at the water meter.)

2. Turn on all the faucets in the 

home, both the hot and the cold 

taps. Leave them on and let them 

run.

3. Turn off the hot water heater. 

Open the faucet at the bottom of 

the water heater to drain it. You may 

want to connect a hose to the faucet 

so you can control where the water 

goes. Be careful; the water may be 

very hot.

4. Flush the toilets to empty their 

water tanks.

5. Wait for the lowest faucet in the 

home to stop running. (This will 

usually be a faucet in the basement.) 

Then check all faucets and toilets. 

If they have stopped running or are 

empty, your water system should be 

drained.

6. Pour some propyleneglycol-based 

antifreeze in all sinks, tubs, floor 

drains, and toilet bowls. (This type 

of antifreeze is available through 

recreational vehicle and mobile home 

dealers. Do not use regular automotive antifreeze.) These drains have

traps that keep water in them.

7. You can turn the main valve back 

on after the building is heated. Do 

this before you start your repairs. 

That way, if there is a broken pipe, a 

water leak won’t cause much damage.

5

STEP

Restore Your Utilities
24

6

STEP

Cleanup 

6

STEP

Cleanup

The walls, floors, closets, shelves, contents—every flooded part of 

your home—should be thoroughly 

washed and disinfected. Some projects, 

such as washing clothes, may have to 

wait until all the utilities are restored. 

Others may be best done by professionals. This section offers suggestions on 

the best way to clean flooded items.

Cleanup Supplies

The Red Cross will often distribute cleanup kits after a disaster. 

These kits contain many useful 

items such as a broom, mop, bucket, 

and cleaning supplies.

In most cases, household cleaning products will do the job if you 

use them correctly. Check the label 

on the products to see how much 

to use. Some products shouldn’t be 

used on certain materials; the label 

will tell you that. Apply cleaner and 

give it time to work before you mop 

or sponge it up. Follow directions 

and all safety precautions on the 

container.

After cleaning a room or item, 

go over it again with a disinfectant 

to kill the germs and odors left by 

the floodwaters. You may also need 

to get rid of mildew, an unwelcome 

companion to moisture that shows 

as fuzzy splotches.

Cleaning Tips

Tackle one room at a time. A two 

bucket approach is most efficient: 

use one bucket for rinse water and 

the other for the cleaner. Rinse 

out your sponge, mop, or cleaning 

cloth in the rinse bucket. Wring it 

as dry as possible and keep it rolled 

up tight as you put it in the cleaner 

bucket. Let it unroll to absorb the 

cleaner. Using two buckets keeps 

most of the dirty rinse water out of 

your cleaning solution. Frequently 

replace the rinse water.

Walls

Start cleaning a wall at the bottom or where the worst damage was. 

If you did not have to remove the 

wallboard or plaster, you may find 

the wallboard or plaster won’t come 

clean and you will want to replace 

it rather than clean it. If you have 

removed the wallboard or plaster, 

wash the studs and sills and disinfect 

them.

Windows

If you taped your windows before 

the storm, clean the tape off as 

soon as possible. The sun will bake 

the adhesive into the glass. If glass 

cleaners don’t remove the adhesive, 

try tar remover, acetone, nail polish 

remover, or a razor blade. And next 

time, don’t bother taping the windows. You don’t get much protection 

for all that effort.

Furniture

Don’t try to force open swollen 

wooden doors and drawers. Take off 

the back of the piece of furniture to 

let the air circulate. You probably 

will be able to open the drawers 

after they dry.

Solid wood furniture can usually 

be repaired and cleaned, but wood 

Cleaning Supplies 

Checklist

•	 Brooms, mops, brushes, sponges

•	 Buckets, hoses

•	 Rubber gloves

•	 Rags

•	Cleaners

•	 Disinfectants

•	 Lubricating oils

•	Trash bags

•	 Hair dryers
25

Cleaners

1st choice: Non-sudsing household 

cleaners 

2nd choice: Laundry soap or detergent

Disinfectants

1st choice: Commercial disinfectants 

or sanitizers, such as the quaternary, 

phenolic, or pine oil based ones. 

(Check labels for the contents.)

2nd choice: 1/4 cup (2 ounces) of 

laundry bleach for 1 gallon of water.

Mildew Removers

1st choice: Commercial mildew 

removers or mildewicides 

2nd choice: Washing soda or tri-sodium phosphate (available at grocery or 

paint stores). Use 5 tablespoons per 

gallon of water. 

3rd choice: 1/4 cup (2 ounces) of 

laundry bleach for 1 gallon of water. 

See below for using bleach.

Bleach

Liquid chlorine bleach can be 

used for a variety of flood cleanup 

jobs. Make sure that 5.25 percent 

sodium hypochlorite is the only 

active ingredient. Bleach that has a 

scent added to improve its smell is 

available. Scented bleach is fine for 

cleanup jobs, but don’t use it to treat 

drinking water. Don’t use dry bleach 

or any bleach that does not contain 

chlorine.

Be careful of fumes and wear rubber 

gloves. Read the safety instructions 

on the label. Do not mix bleach with 

other household chemical products, 

especially ammonia or toilet bowl 

cleaner, because the chemical reaction 

can create a poisonous gas. Do not 

use bleach on aluminum or linoleum.

veneer often separates and warps. 

Wood alcohol or turpentine applied 

with a cotton ball may remove white 

mildew spots on wood. Cream 

wood restorers with lanolin will help 

restore good wooden furniture parts.

Upholstered furniture soaks up 

contaminants from floodwaters and 

should be cleaned only by a professional. This is also true of carpets 

and bedding. Unless the piece is an 

antique or especially valuable, upholstered furniture soaked by floodwaters probably should be thrown 

out. Get a cost estimate from a 

professional to see if the furniture is 

worth saving.

Appliances

There’s an unexpected danger of 

shock with some electrical appliances such as TV sets and radios. 

Certain internal parts store electricity even when the appliance is 

unplugged. Check the back for a 

warning label. Appliances with such 

labels will need professional cleaning. But first, get a cost estimate to 

see if they are worth saving.

You’ll need appliances such as the 

washing machine, dryer, dishwasher, 

and vacuum cleaner to help clean 

your home and contents. The motors or heating elements can usually 

be cleaned. If you can’t wait for a 

professional cleaning job, unplug, 

disassemble, and thoroughly hose 

off the appliances (with hot water, if 

possible). Then clean and disinfect 

them, but do not use detergents.

Clean and disinfect dishwashers, 

washing machines, and dryers only 

with water that has been declared 

safe for drinking. Make sure the 

sewer line is working before starting 

a dishwasher or washing machine.

You can speed up the drying process for motors and parts by using a 

blow dryer and a moisture displacement spray. Moisture displacement 

sprays, such as electronics parts 

cleaners or lubricating and penetrating oil, are available at hardware or 

automotive parts stores. The sprays 

can also stop rust and corrosion until the appliance can be disassembled 

and cleaned. One word of caution: 

the sprays are flammable. Read and 

follow label instructions and precautions.

Moving parts such as motors 

and pulleys will need oil or grease. 

Contacts and electrical switches can 

be cleaned with a moisture displacement spray or an aerosol contact 

cleaner available at electronics or 

auto parts stores. Allow a motor to 

run for 30 minutes with no load before you use it. For example, run the 

vacuum cleaner without connecting 

the belt.

Watch for stripped or damaged 

wire insulation. Be sure all appliances 

are properly grounded. This is most 

important if there was damage to the 

wiring from the flood or during cleaning. Appliances that must be grounded 

have a round third prong on their 

plugs. Review the information on your 

electrical system in Step 5.

Refrigerators and freezers are 

more complicated. They may have 

foam insulation and sealed components that suffered little water 

damage. But those appliances hold 

food, so they should be cleaned, 

disinfected, and checked by a professional, or replaced. If your repair 

person says an expensive appliance 

should be replaced, get the opinion 

in writing and discuss it with your 

6

STEP

Cleanup
26

6

STEP

Cleanup

insurance adjuster before you spend 

money for another one.

Clothing and Linens

Even if your washing machine 

did not get wet, do not use it until 

you know that the water is safe 

enough to drink and that your 

sewer line works. (Perhaps a friend 

or relative has a washing machine 

you can use until yours is clean and 

working.)

Before you wash clothes in the 

washing machine, run the machine 

through one full cycle. Be sure to 

use hot water and a disinfectant or 

sanitizer.

Take clothes and linens out-

doors and shake out dried mud or 

dirt before you wash them. Hose 

off muddy items to remove all dirt 

before you put them in the washer. 

That way your drain won’t clog.

Check the labels on clothes and 

linens, and wash them in detergent 

and warm water if possible. Adding 

chlorine bleach to the wash cycle 

will remove most mildew and sani-

tize the clothing, but bleach fades 

some fabrics and damages other 

fabrics. You can buy other sanitiz-

ers, such as pine oil cleaners, at the 

grocery store to sanitize fabrics that 

cannot be bleached.

If the label says “Dry Clean 

Only,” shake out loose dirt and take 

the item to a professional cleaner. 

Furs and leather items are usually 

worth the cost of professional clean-

ing. If you want to clean leather 

yourself, wash the mud off and dry 

the leather slowly away from heat or 

sunlight.

Kitchen Items

Throw out soft plastic and po-

rous items that probably absorbed 

whatever the floodwaters carried 

in. Floodwaters are contaminated, 

so you may want to wash dishes by 

hand in a disinfectant. Air dry the 

disinfected dishes; do not use a dish 

towel.

Like the washing machine, the 

dishwasher should also be used only 

after you know your water is safe 

to drink and your sewer line works. 

Clean and disinfect it first. Then 

use a hot setting to wash your pots, 

pans, dishes, and utensils. (If you 

have an energy saving setting, do 

not use it.)

Food

Throw any food out that has been 

touched by floodwaters. Even food 

in tin cans should be discarded if 

the cans got wet during the flood 

because there is no way to be abso-

lutely certain the food inside is safe. 

Do not keep food in bottles or jars 

with bottle caps or screw on lids—

they do not keep out floodwaters.

The U.S. Department of Agriculture operates a food safety hot-line. 

Professional home economists can 

answer your questions about whether 

to keep or discard food. Call 1-888-

674-6854 between 10:00 a.m. and 

4:00 p.m, Eastern Time, Monday 

through Friday.

Paper and Books

Valuable papers such as books, 

photographs, and stamp collections 

can be restored with a great deal of 

effort. They can be rinsed and frozen 

(in a frost-free freezer or commercial 

meat locker) until you have time 
27

to work on them. A slightly less 

effective alternative to preserving 

an item is to place items in a sealed 

container, such as a plastic bag, with 

moth crystals.

Papers should be dried quickly 

when they are thawed or unsealed 

(a blow dryer will do). Don’t try to 

force paper products apart, just keep 

drying them. Photocopy valuable 

papers and records soon because 

substances in the water may make 

them deteriorate.

If a computer disk or tape has 

valuable information, rinse it in 

clear water and put it in a plastic bag 

in the refrigerator. Later, you can 

take it to a professional drying cen-

ter and have the data transferred to a 

good disk or tape. Many companies 

that specialize in restoring comput-

ers and computer records after a 

disaster are members of the Disaster 

Recovery Institute International. To 

find a member company near you, 

you can call the Institute at 1-866-

542-3744.

The Yard

As you get rid of things from 

your home, don’t turn your yard 

into a dump. Food and garbage 

must be hauled away as soon as 

possible. Other discarded items 

should be removed as soon as your 

insurance adjuster has told you how 

to make sure their loss is covered. 

Other things you throw away should 

be removed as soon as your insur-

ance adjuster says it’s okay.

Mosquitoes can carry many 

diseases, and a flood can create idea 

conditions for them to breed. Drain 

or remove standing water that can 

become a breeding ground. Dump 

water out of barrels, old tires, and 

cans. Check that your gutters are 

clean and can drain. Ditches and 

drains also need to be cleaned so 

they can carry stormwater away 

from your home.

If you can’t get rid of standing 

water, use a commercial product 

that kills mosquito larvae but does 

not harm other animals. A slightly 

less effective method is to apply 

a thin film of cooking oil on the 

water. Repeat the application within 

a few days after a rain has disturbed 

the film.

The Lawn

Lawns usually survive being un-

derwater for up to 4 days. Saltwater 

should be hosed off the lawn and 

shrubs. Some grasses are not dam-

aged by saltwater flooding. Check 

with your local nursery, garden 

store, or Cooperative Extension 

Service. You may have to replace the 

lawn if there was mud thicker than 

1 inch deep, erosion, or chemicals in 

the floodwaters.

Further Information

More detailed instructions 

on how to clean your household 

contents may be presented by local 

media (e.g., newspapers, on radio 

and TV stations) after a flood event. 

Many Cooperative Extension Ser-

vice offices have more information, 

especially on animals, vegetables, 

landscape plants, and household 

items. Check your local telephone 

book under the name of your 

county. For example, if you live in 

Montgomery County, look under 

the Montgomery County Coopera-

tive Extension Service.

6

STEP

Cleanup
28

7

STEP

Check on Financial Assistance 

7

STEP

Check on Financial Assistance

How much you rebuild and replace depends on what you 

can afford. Four sources of financial 

assistance can help you through recovery: insurance, government disaster 

programs, voluntary agencies, and 

businesses. If you are fully insured (80 

percent of the replacement cost of your 

home), you may only have to pay the 

deductible and your flood insurance 

policy will pay for professional cleaning and reconstruction. Even if you are 

insured, the other sources of assistance 

can help with expenses that your insurance policy doesn’t cover.

Voluntary Agencies

Private voluntary agencies such 

as the American Red Cross, Salvation Army, and church groups are 

usually on the scene during or right 

after a flood. These groups normally 

provide for immediate needs such as 

clothing, groceries, shelter, medical 

aid, and counseling.

Some private organizations can 

help you restore your home. They 

may offer supplies or sometimes 

volunteers to help you clean up and 

rebuild. The services are usually 

provided free of charge regardless of 

a person’s eligibility for government 

aid. 

The American Red Cross provides 

emergency assistance to people affected by disasters, whether or not 

the affected area has been declared 

a disaster area by a governor or the 

President. All Red Cross disaster 

assistance is free and is provided as 

a gift of the American people. The 

Red Cross does not receive funding 

from the government to provide this 

assistance.

The American Red Cross can help 

by providing you with a voucher to 

purchase new clothing, groceries, 

essential medications, rent, bedding, 

necessary furnishings, and other 

items to meet emergency needs. The 

Red Cross can also provide you with 

a cleanup kit: broom, mop, bucket, 

and cleaning supplies. Listen to 

news reports to find out where to 

go for this assistance, or look up the 

American Red Cross in the telephone book. You can also find your 

local Red Cross chapter by doing a 

search at the Red Cross web site at 

http://www.redcross.org or calling 

1-202-303-5000.

Businesses

Your local newspapers and radio 

and TV stations will usually publicize how businesses are contributing to the recovery process. Some 

businesses may offer reduced prices, 

but be wary of “flood sales” that are 

selling flood damaged items.

Some insurance companies and 

lenders may let you delay or defer 

your monthly payments. Sometimes 

banks will make lower interest loans 

available for reconstruction. While 

these may seem easier to obtain than 

government disaster loans, their 

interest rates are usually higher.
29

Be careful about out-of-towners 

offering “special deals,” especially 

repair contractors. Sometimes the 

local builders’ association will offer 

advice on reconstruction or advice 

on choosing contractors. (See Step 8 

on dealing with repair contractors.)

Flood Insurance Claims

You may have as many as three 

separate insurance policies: homeowner’s, flood, and wind and/or 

hail. This section covers the procedures for handling a flood insurance 

claim. Claims for non-flood damage 

will be handled in a similar manner.

You should call your flood insurance agent to report your damage as 

soon as possible after the flood. Your 

agent will arrange for an adjuster to 

visit your home so that your claim 

can be settled. Be sure you leave 

phone numbers where you can be 

reached.

If you are unable to contact the 

local agent, call the National Flood 

Insurance Program at 1-888-379-

9531.

Under ideal conditions, the adjuster should contact you to set up 

an appointment to visit your home 

within a few days after you call 

your agent. But if flood damage is 

widespread in your area, it may take 

longer for the adjuster to visit, and it 

make take time for your claim to be 

settled. If flooding is extensive, the 

adjusters will schedule their visits to 

review the most severe damage first. 

The adjuster cannot estimate your 

damage until floodwaters are away 

from the building.

In the meantime, protect your 

home and its contents from 

additional damage, but do not make 

repairs that make it impossible for 

the adjuster to see the damage. Step 

2 discusses how to protect your 

home from further damage.

While you are waiting for the 

adjuster, the following suggestions 

will help you organize the information that you will need:

❏ Take photos or video the 

damage to both the inside and 

outside of the building and the 

contents.

❏ Separate your damaged and 

undamaged belongings and 

store them for the adjuster to 

examine.

❏ Find receipts, canceled checks, 

or proofs of purchase for high 

cost items such as major appliances, if possible. The adjuster 

will need the manufacturer’s 

name; serial and model numbers; price; location and date of 

purchase; and a description of the 

items.

The claims adjuster’s job is to 

collect information that is sent to 

a central office for processing. The 

insured (you) must file a Proof of 

Loss form within 60 days of the 

flooding. In most cases, the adjuster 

will file this form for you. The form 

states the amount of your loss and 

is signed by both the insured and 

the adjuster. An important point to 

remember is that you will not be reimbursed for expenses not authorized 

by the adjuster.

You can ask the adjuster for an 

advance or partial payment for your 

building or contents loss, especially 

if you need the money to make your 

7

STEP

Check on Financial Assistance

Some Points on 

Settling Claims

•	You are supposed to be reimbursed fairly for your loss, but 

you are not supposed to profit 

from a disaster.

•	You cannot collect more than the 

face value of your policy.

•	You cannot collect for uninsured 

items, such as landscaping.

•	Most adjusters receive a flat salary or compensation on a per 

case basis. There are no financial 

incentives that encourage the 

adjuster to give you a small claim 

payment.

•	You should get the adjuster’s 

name, company, and phone 

number. He or she will probably 

be from out of town.

•	In most cases, you will be reimbursed for the actual cash value of 

an item. That is the cost of replacing the item minus depreciation. 

If your policy is for 80 percent or 

more of the replacement cost of 

your home, you will be reimbursed for the replacement value 

of damage to your hom e (no depreciation), less your deductible.

•	If you have problems with a flood 

insurance claim, your policy 

should list an office or telephone 

number that you can contact or 

you can call your insurance agent.
30

7

STEP

Check on Financial Assistance 

home liveable. An advance will not 

affect the total amount of your payment. Later, when your total payment is determined, the amount you 

were advanced will be subtracted 

from it. You can also ask for a partial 

payment if you disagree with the 

amount of your loss on the Proof of 

Loss form. Tell your adjuster if you 

disagree and ask what steps can be 

taken to straighten out your claim 

payment.

The check to settle your flood 

insurance building claim will most 

likely be in your name as well as 

the name of your mortgage holder. 

Some insurance companies may 

send the payment to your mortgage holder. Talk to your mortgage 

company ahead of time to make 

sure there won’t be a delay in getting 

your claim payment to you.

Disaster Assistance

If the flooding was widespread 

and caused a lot of damage, your 

community might be eligible for 

state or federal aid. To receive such 

assistance, your community must 

be declared a disaster area by your 

governor, a federal agency director, 

or the President. Local newspapers 

and radio and TV stations will keep 

you informed about disaster declarations and where to get information 

about any programs that might be 

available to you.

If the flood were severe enough 

for your area to be declared a disaster area by the federal government, 

the Federal Emergency Management 

Agency may open “teleregistration,” 

which provides a toll-free number 

for you to call to request assistance, 

or FEMA may open one or more 

Disaster Recovery Centers (DRCs). 

These centers will give information 

and take applications for assistance 

and are usually located in a nearby 

school or other public building. 

They will be open during the day 

and early evening for several days to 

give people time to come in. Check 

local newspapers and radio and TV 

reports for the locations and hours.

Federal disaster assistance may be 

available in some cases to deal with 

uninsured losses and needs. People 

who are not insured should go to 

a DRC first. If possible, those with 

insurance should file their Proof of 

Loss form before visiting a DRC. If 

there is a long wait, you can make 

an appointment for another time. 

Call 1-800-621-3362 or check 

FEMA’s web site at http://www.

fema.gov.

When you go to a DRC or apply for disaster assistance, take the 

items listed below: The first person 

you will talk to at a DRC will be a 

receptionist. He or she will review your damage and needs, and 

identify which programs are most 

appropriate for you. You will receive 

a checklist of programs that can help 

you. You can then talk to representatives of these programs at the DRC.

There are six types of federal or 

state disaster assistance. Except as 

noted, the following are available 

only if the President issues a disaster 

declaration for your area.

Disaster Housing Assistance

This program may provide a safe 

place to live until repairs to damaged homes are completed. Rent 

DRC Visit Checklist

Before you go to a DRC or phone 

the toll-free number, do your best to 

get together the following information and documents. If you don’t 

have all of them, don’t worry; gather 

what you have and start your disaster 

assistance application process.

•	 Your name, address, Social Security 

number, and identification

•	Telephone numbers where you or a 

neighbor can be reached

•	 Names and ages of all persons 

living in your home at the time of 

the flood

•	Insurance papers, including the 

“Proof of Loss” form

•	 A summary of your damage and a 

rough idea of the cost of repair or 

replacement (see Step 3)

•	 Your income and the income of all 

other members of your household

•	 Who you owe money to and how 

much you owe (mortgage, car loan, 

etc.)

•	The total amount of your living 

expenses (rent, mortgage, food, 

clothing, utilities, medical, and 

transportation costs)

•	 Directions to your property, starting from a major road, and a road 

map with an X for your property
31

assistance or mobile homes may be 

provided to those without insurance. If repairs can be done quickly 

to make your house liveable, the 

program may provide funds to make 

those repairs.

Disaster Loans

Home and business owners, 

farmers, and others with real or 

personal property losses may be 

eligible for low interest loans. These 

loans are administered by the federal 

government’s Small Business Administration (SBA) and the Farmers 

Home Administration (FmHA). 

SBA and FmHA can provide loans 

even if there is no Presidential disaster declaration.

Eligibility and loan interest rates 

vary according to the income and 

financial condition of the applicant. 

Check your local newspaper or radio 

or TV stations for the types of loans 

available for replacing your personal 

property and for repairing your 

house.

Individual and Family Grants

This program may provide funds 

for necessary expenses and serious 

needs. Grants can cover immediate 

expenses such as medical treatment, 

transportation, home repair, replacement of essential personal items, and 

the cost of protecting your property 

from the flood. Applicants must not 

have other financial resources or be 

able to qualify for an SBA disaster 

loan.

Income Tax Deductions

If a federal disaster declaration 

was made, you might quality to file 

an amended tax return for the past 

year and get a partial refund for your 

uninsured casualty losses. Even if no 

federal declaration is made, you can 

often deduct your uninsured losses 

on your next income tax return. 

Ask the Internal Revenue Service 

for Publication 547, Non-Business 

Disasters, Casualties, and Theft to get 

more information. This document 

can be downloaded at http://www.

irs.gov/pub/irs-pdf/p547.pdf.

Floodproofing Assistance

Restoring a building to its preflood condition used to be the focus 

of government disaster programs. 

Now, some programs encourage 

“floodproofing,”—that is, modifying the structure to help it withstand damage from the next flood 

(see Step 8). The SBA’s Disaster 

Assistance Loan program can loan 

additional money to cover certain 

floodproofing costs—call SBA at 

1-800-827-5722. Other programs 

will vary from state to state.

Counseling

A variety of programs give advice 

on recovering from a disaster. These 

include help with unemployment, 

food stamps, income taxes, insurance claims, legal issues, veterans 

benefits, and crisis counseling. Crisis 

counseling can be especially helpful 

in coping with problems as you recover from the flood before they get 

out of hand. Be sure to ask the Red 

Cross about disaster mental health 

information.

7

STEP

Check on Financial Assistance
32

8

STEP

Rebuild and Floodproof 

8

STEP

Rebuild and Floodproof

Don’t just build it back; build it better. Now is the best possible 

time to think about floodproofing your 

home because you can take definite 

action to protect your property in the 

future. Many floodproofing measures 

are quite simple, cost effective, and 

easy to put in place. By floodproofing 

as you rebuild, you can make the next 

flood easier on you and your wallet.

Floodproofing

Floodproofing means to remodel 

or rebuild using materials and methods that will prevent or minimize 

damage from future floods. Consider the benefits to floodproofing 

your home:

•	 By protecting your home from 

damage, floodproofing will save 

you money, aggravation, and 

stress during the next flood.

•	 Many floodproofing measures are 

inexpensive.

•	 Protecting your home from 

future flood damage will increase 

your property’s resale value.

•	 Many floodproofing measures 

can be easily worked in during 

repair and rebuilding, resulting in 

reduced costs.

•	 Some financial assistance programs can help pay for floodproofing.

•	 By preparing for the next flood, 

you regain control over your 

future—a guaranteed way to 

reduce your level of anxiety and 

stress. You don’t have to wait for 

the government to act; you can 

take care of protecting your home 

when you are ready.

•	 Floodproofing won’t make it possible for you to stay at home in a 

flood. But it is likely to make it 

much quicker and easier for you 

to clean up the next time.

Before you repair or rebuild, the 

first thing you should do is talk 

to your town’s or city’s or county’s 

building department. You will need 

to ask the following questions:

•	 What are the procedures for 

applying for a building permit? 

What inspections will need to be 

done?

•	 Is your home substantially damaged? (Substantially damaged 

means that the cost to restore 

your home to its “before damaged” condition would equal or 

exceed 50 percent of the market 

value your home had before the 

damage occurred.) The flood protection level is the level of flooding that you want your home 

to be able to withstand without 

damage to your home or your 

belongings.

Start by asking your building department what flood protection level 

is required for your area. If a flood 

occurred that was higher than the 

level they gave you, you should use 

that flood’s level plus 1 or 2 feet for 

safety. The next flood may be worse.
33

The next step is to decide if you 

will be better off living in a different 

location, away from areas that flood. 

Ask your building official about 

government agencies that sometimes 

purchase property for open space 

or flood protection in areas that 

flood—you may qualify.

If you are sure that you will repair 

or rebuild your home in the floodprone area, choose the floodproofing 

type that is best for your home or 

property. Basic types of floodproofing are described here, as well as 

rebuilding tips to help you safely 

repair and rebuild.

Five Types of Floodproofing

1. Elevation

Most buildings can be raised so 

that the lowest floor is above the 

possible flood level. If you had foundation damage from the flood, you 

may need to raise the home to repair 

it. It will be easier and cheaper to 

elevate the home at that time.

There should be many contractors 

qualified to undertake elevating your 

home above flood level. Elevation 

or relocation are the only reasonable ways to protect your home if 

it is subject to coastal flooding or 

to deep flooding (more than 6 feet 

deep.) Elevation and relocation are 

also the most dependable measures 

for floodproofing your home. 

An elevated building will need a 

new foundation. The contractor will 

jack up a structure and temporarily set it on a temporary framework 

called cribbing while the foundation 

is built underneath. The foundations of an elevated building may 

be columns, piers, pilings, or raised 

foundation walls. The elevated 

building will usually look better and 

have added protection if fill dirt 

is placed around the new foundation. But check with your building 

department before adding fill dirt. It 

may not be allowed in your community.

2. Relocation

Moving a building out of the 

flood-prone area is the surest way 

to protect it from flood damage. 

Most homes and smaller commercial 

buildings in good condition can be 

moved, and it is usually no problem 

to find contractors experienced in 

moving buildings. You will have to 

purchase a new lot unless your present lot is large and has a good spot 

on higher ground for your home. 

Relocation and elevation are the 

only reasonable choices for protecting a home that is subject to deep 

flooding (of more than 6 feet in 

depth) or to coastal flooding.

3. Floodwalls

Floodwalls, berms, and levees 

all work to keep floodwaters from 

reaching your home. They are built 

to at least the height of the flood 

protection level in your area. Floodwalls are usually made of concrete. 

8

STEP

Rebuild and Floodproof
34

8

STEP

Rebuild and Floodproof 

Berms are simply small levees, usually built from fill dirt.

Floodwalls, berms, and levees can 

either surround the building (ring 

levee) or connect to high ground. 

They can also be built up against a 

building’s foundation walls. A sump 

and pump will be needed to pump 

out water that seeps under the wall. 

Floodwalls, levees, and berms may 

not be allowed in your area if they 

could create a drainage problem on 

your neighbor’s property. Check 

with your building department 

before you build.

Floodwalls of all types work best 

in places where flooding is less than 

3 feet deep. If floodwaters near your 

home develop swift currents, floodwalls, levees, and berms cannot be 

used—they may wash away. Floodwalls and berms may not be appropriate for homes with basements.

If there is not enough room for 

a levee or berm, you may be able to 

build a floodwall made of concrete, 

which takes up less room. The walls 

should contain internal reinforcing 

bars to give added strength as well 

as to help walls resist cracking and 

settling over time. Walls must be 

properly anchored to withstand the 

same water pressure that can destroy 

basement walls.

4. Dry Floodproofing

Dry floodproofing means sealing 

a building to keep floodwaters out. 

All areas below the flood protection 

level are made watertight. Walls are 

coated with plastic or rubberized 

sheeting or special waterproofing 

compounds. Openings such as 

doors, windows, sewer lines, and 

vents are closed permanently, or can 

be temporarily sealed with removable shields or sandbags.

Dry floodproofing can only be 

done if the walls of your home are 

strong enough to hold back the 

floodwaters without collapsing. For 

this reason, dry floodproofing is not 

recommended if floodwaters are 

expected to be more than 2 or 3 feet 

above the ground level. Dry floodproofing is generally not appropriate for homes with basements or 

crawlspaces.

5. Wet Floodproofing

Wet floodproofing means modifying a building so that floodwaters 

will cause only minimal damage to 

the building and contents. Building 

materials below the flood protection 

level are replaced with materials that 

are resistant to water. Floodwaters 

are allowed into the building to 
35

counteract the pressure of the water 

on the outside of the walls.

You should furnish areas that 

have been wet floodproofed with 

light, portable furniture that can be 

easily and quickly moved before a 

flood. Objects that are difficult to 

move, such as furnaces, water heaters, appliances, and bookcases, are 

either put on platforms or reinstalled upstairs.

Wet floodproofing has one advantage over the other four floodproofing types: even the smallest 

efforts will significantly reduce flood 

damage the next time. Thousands of 

dollars can be saved simply by moving furniture and electrical appliances out of areas that will flood. If you 

decide not to use one of the other 

four floodproofing types, you should 

use wet floodproofing measures as 

you repair and rebuild. The rebuilding tips in this section give more wet 

floodproofing ideas. 

Building Permits

One you’ve determined the 

repairs and floodproofing measures 

you are going to take, local codes 

generally require that you get a 

building permit. Before you make 

repairs or alterations to your home 

or property, make sure your plans 

are reviewed and approved by your 

building department. You may also 

need to get approval from your homeowner’s association or mortgage 

holder before you make repairs or 

alterations to your home or property.

If you are just replacing items 

such as carpeting or wallboard, you 

will probably not need a permit— 

but you should check with your local building department before you 

proceed. You will usually have to 

get a permit for electrical work and 

repairs of structural damage, such as 

broken walls.

Most local and state building 

codes require that a building that is 

substantially damaged be treated as 

a new building. A new residential 

building must be built so that its 

lowest floor is at or above the flood 

protection level. In other words, if 

your home meets the criteria described above for “substantially damaged,” you will have no choice but 

to elevate or relocate your home in 

order to meet local building codes.

Failure to follow the local building code can result in an order to stop 

reconstruction, a fine, imprisonment, 

higher flood insurance rates, denial of 

flood insurance, or all of the above.

Rebuilding Tips

Give your home plenty of time 

to dry. Many problems result from 

rebuilding after a flood before 

everything dries. If it takes a week 

for the visible signs of moisture to 

disappear, allow at least another 

week for the parts you cannot see 

to dry. Don’t try to force a swollen 

door to close or wooden parts to 

fit. When completely dry, the wood 

may regain its original shape.

8

STEP

Rebuild and Floodproof
36

8

STEP

Rebuild and Floodproof 

There are small, inexpensive 

measures you can take to make your 

recovery easier from future floods.

Utilities

Move the main breaker or fuse 

box and the utility meters above 

the flood protection level for your 

home. Make sure each circuit is 

labeled so you know which circuits 

control which outlets and fixtures. 

If the electrical code allows, raise the 

electrical outlets and switches above 

your flood protection level.

If you are going to replace a 

flooded furnace, water heater, or 

air conditioner, install the new 

one on a higher floor. If your new 

air conditioner or heat pump will 

be outside, install it on a platform 

above the flood protection level. A 

water heater can be put anywhere 

near a hot water pipe. An updraft 

furnace located in a basement can be 

replaced with a downdraft furnace 

on a floor above the flood protection 

level. 

Where the flood protection level 

is not too high, a furnace, water 

heater, or other heavy appliance 

can also be raised on a platform 

inside the home. Put the appliance 

on concrete blocks or a wooden 

platform supported by concrete 

blocks. Make certain that appliances 

such as washers and dryers are secure 

and will not vibrate off the blocks or 

platform during use.

You can protect the furnace, 

water heater, washer, and dryer from 

shallow flooding with a low floodwall built around the appliance. A 

concrete or wooden wall 1 or 2 feet 

high can stop low-level flooding. 

The wall should be waterproofed 

with plastic sheeting or waterproofing compounds that can be purchased at hardware stores.

Walls

Wash and disinfect the studs and 

sills if the wallboard and insulation 

had to be removed. If you are going 

to rebuild the walls, remember that 

metal studs and sills are not damaged by water as much as wooden 

studs.

Pressure-treated wood will resist 

mildew and wood eating insects 

outdoors, but it may swell as much 

as untreated wood when soaked. 

Some kinds of pressure treated wood 

should not be used inside the home, 

where they will come into contact 

with food or skin. (It depends on 

which chemicals were used to treat 

them.) Ask your lumber company to 

help you choose the right products 

for jobs you will do. They should 

also have consumer information 

sheets that give specific precautions 

for some products. Ask for them.

Wallboard

Think horizontal rather than 

vertical. Install the wallboard panels 

sideways so they are only 4 feet 

high. If the next flood is less than 4 

feet deep, you only have to replace 

half the wall.

Products That Resist

Water Damage

•	Concrete, concrete block, or 

glazed brick

•	Clay, concrete, or ceramic tile

•	Galvanized or stainless steel nails, 

hurricane clips, and connectors 

(in areas subject to saltwater 

flooding)

•	Indoor-outdoor carpeting with 

synthetic backing (do not fasten 

down)

•	Terrazzo, rubber, or vinyl floor 

covering with waterproof adhesives

•	Metal doors and window frames

•	Polyester-epoxy paint (do not use 

mildew-resistant paint indoors, 

especially on cribs, playpens, or 

toys because it contains an ingredient that is toxic)

•	Stone, slate, or cast stone (with 

waterproof mortar)

•	Foam board insulation

•	Water-resistant glue
37

This drawing shows another suggestion. Leave the wall open 1 inch 

above the sill. The baseboard will 

hide this gap. When you remove 

the baseboard after the next flood, 

the wall cavity will drain freely and 

air will circulate better. Check your 

local codes, however. If a firewall is 

required, the building code may not 

allow the gap.

“Greenboard” or other moistureresistant wallboard is made for bathrooms and other damp areas, such 

as basements. It may be more sturdy 

when wet than regular wallboard. 

However, if soaked with floodwaters, it will present the same health 

hazards as regular wallboard and 

should be replaced.

Floors

Some floors are made with 

particle board or plywood, materials that fall apart when wet for long. 

Floor joists and some wood floors 

will regain their shapes if allowed to 

dry naturally.

After re-nailing, a wooden floor 

may need a little sanding to be 

smooth, or you can place a new underlayment for a new floor over it. 

Use screws or screw nails on floors 

and stairs to minimize warping. Do 

not lay new flooring or carpet until 

the subflooring is completely dry.

Painting

Do not paint until the surface is 

completely dry. If the surface still 

contains moisture, the paint will 

peel. Things look dry on the surface long before they are dry on the 

inside, and this can lead to costly 

mistakes. It may take several weeks 

for the surface to dry out enough.

To get an idea if a wall or floor 

is dry enough to paint, dry an area 

approximately 18 inches square 

with a blow dryer. (When checking 

a wall, select an area near the floor 

where it will be the most damp.) 

Cover the area with a piece of clear 

plastic sheeting. Carefully seal all the 

edges with tape. Check the plastic 

24 hours later. If there are beads of 

condensation on the side of the plastic that faces the wall or the floor, it’s 

still too damp to paint.

You can cover concrete surfaces 

with a clear coating or penetrating sealer to make cleanup easier 

next time. Don’t paint over water 

stains—they will bleed through several coats of paint. Coat the stained 

area with shellac or a commercial 

stain killer before painting.

If you are going to dry floodproof 

your walls, don’t rely on waterproofing paints; they cannot keep floodwaters out. Such paints may protect 

a deck from rain, but they cannot 

protect walls and floors against the 

pressure of standing water. (Thick 

plastic or rubberized sheeting provides the most secure waterproofing 

seal.)

8

STEP

Rebuild and Floodproof
38

8

STEP

Rebuild and Floodproof 

Windows

If you live near the coast, your 

home is likely to suffer damage from 

the high winds and floodwaters of 

a hurricane or nor’easter. Boarding 

up all your windows and doors is 

the best way to protect them from 

breaking and letting in the heavy 

rains that a coastal storm brings. 

Taping windows will not prevent 

them from breaking during a storm.

Cut plywood to fit each of your 

windows and doors well before a 

storm threatens. Label each piece so 

you’ll know which window or door 

it covers. Store the plywood with 

the nails or other fasteners you will 

need to attach them. That way, you 

will be able to quickly put up the 

plywood when a storm threatens.

Contractors

You may need a contractor to 

help you rebuild, especially to handle the difficult jobs such as foundation repair and electrical work. If 

you have been satisfied with work 

done by licensed local contractors, 

try them first. If they cannot help 

you, ask them for recommendations.

If you must hire a contractor you 

do not know, talk to several contractors before you sign anything. 

Reputable contractors would agree 

that you should take the following 

steps:

❏ Check on the firm’s reputation.

The local Better Business Bureau, 

home builders association, or 

building trade councils are excellent sources. Ask if the firm has 

had unanswered complaints filed 

against it.

❏ Ask for proof of insurance. Be 

sure the contractor has liability, 

disability, and worker’s compensation insurance. If the contractor 

is not insured, you may be liable 

for accidents on your property.

❏ Ask for references. Contractors should be willing to provide 

names of previous customers. 

Call some of the customers and 

ask if they would hire the contractor again.

❏ Ask for a written estimate.

Check it to make sure it includes everything you expect the 

contractor to do. Some contractors charge a fee for an estimate, 

which is understandable because 

they have plenty of work to do 

after a flood.

❏ Ask for a contract. The contract 

should be complete and clearly 

state all the work, the costs, and 

the payment schedule. Never 

sign a blank contract or one with 

blank spaces. If a lot of money is 

involved, it may be worth your 

while to have an attorney look at 

the contract before you sign it.

❏ Ask for any guarantees in writing. If the contractor provides 

guarantees, they should be 

written into the contract, clearly 

stating what is guaranteed, who 

is responsible for the guarantee 

(the dealer, the contractor, or the 

manufacturer), and how long the 

guarantee is valid.

❏ Obtain a copy of the final

signed contract. Once signed,

it is binding on both you and

the contractor.

Products to Avoid

Avoid using or storing in areas likely 

to flood:

•	 Fiberglass or cellulose insulation

•	Cork, corkboard

•	 Gasoline, weed killer, pesticide, lye, 

drain cleaner, swimming pool and 

other chemicals

•	 Linoleum

•	 Particle board, chipboard, fiberboard, paperboard, strawboard, 

wood-grain paneling

•	 Wallboard, drywall, gypsum

•	 Wallpaper
39

❏ Don’t sign off before the job is 

finished. Don’t sign completion 

papers or make the final payment 

until the work is completed to 

your satisfaction. A reputable 

contractor will not threaten you 

or pressure you to sign if the job 

is not properly finished.

Areas recuperating from floods 

can be prime targets for less than 

honest business activities. Building codes often require that work 

be done only by licensed contractors. Some building departments 

and trade associations keep lists of 

contractors who work in the community.

Here are some points to remember:

•	 Be cautious when contractors you 

don’t know offer “special deals” 

after a disaster or want to use 

your home as a “model home.”

•	 Ask for complete financial details 

in writing and for an explanation 

of any differences from regular 

prices. Sales are worthwhile and 

they do exist, but be sure you are 

getting the services and products 

for which you are paying. 

•	 Do not sign a contract when a 

salesperson has pressured you. 

Federal law requires a 3-day 

“cooling off ” period for unsolicited door-to-door sales of more 

than $25. If you want to cancel 

such a contract within 3 business days of signing it, send your 

cancellation by registered mail. 

Other types of sales may have 

contracts with different cancellation clauses.

•	 Beware if you are asked to pay 

cash on the spot instead of a 

check made out to the contracting company. A reasonable down 

payment is up to 30 percent of 

the total cost of the project.

•	 Make sure your contractor calls 

you or a qualified observer to 

inspect work before it is covered 

over. Shoddy work on sewers or 

basement walls will be hidden 

from view, and you won’t know if 

there is a problem until the next 

flood. Most building departments 

will want to inspect electrical and 

plumbing lines before the walls 

are covered with wallboard or 

paneling.

If you are a victim of fraud or 

have problems with a less than reputable contractor, the state or local 

consumer protection office or public 

attorney should be able to tell you 

what to do.

8

STEP

Rebuild and Floodproof
40

9

STEP

Prepare for the Next Flood 

9

STEP

Prepare for the Next Flood

Be prepared is more than just a Scout motto. Your home will 

very likely be flooded again someday. 

Preparing for the next flood will 

protect you and your family, your 

property, your finances, and your peace 

of mind. In addition to the floodproofing measures discussed in the previous 

step, you should buy flood insurance, 

develop a flood response plan, and help 

your community implement a flood 

protection program.

Flood Insurance

Even if you have floodproofed 

your home, you still need insurance 

to protect you from the unexpected 

events such as a flood that rises 

higher than your flood protection 

level. If you have insurance, find out 

whether you have the right kinds 

of coverage, and whether you have 

adequate coverage. Homeowners’ 

policies do not cover damage caused 

by floods, so you will probably need 

to purchase a separate policy under 

the National Flood Insurance Program (NFIP).

An NFIP policy covers:

•	 Damage to your home or contents caused by a general condition of surface water flooding (up 

to the amount of your coverage)

•	 Costs for protecting your property from flood damage, including 

moving and storing your contents for up to 45 days (up to the 

amount of the deductible)

•	 Expenses for removing debris left 

by the flood 

An NFIP policy does not cover:

•	 Damage caused by high ground 

water, sewer backup, subsurface 

flows, or local drainage problems 

that are not considered a “general 

condition of flooding”

•	 Property located outside an insurable building, including fences, 

outdoor swimming pools, driveways, docks, floodwalls, crops in 

the field, and landscaping

•	 Vehicles, trailers on wheels, and 

boats

•	 Paneling, carpeting, furniture, 

and contents in the finished portion of a basement or underneath 

an elevated building

•	 Animals

•	 Money, valuable papers, and land 

values

•	 Living expenses and lost income

The NFIP provides federallybacked insurance coverage for 

any building in a community that 

is participating in the program. 

Almost every type of walled and 

roofed building can be insured. It 

does not matter whether the building is in or out of the floodplain. A 

mobile (manufactured) home affixed 

to a permanent site and properly 

anchored can also be insured. You 

can get coverage on the building as 

well as for contents.

Building coverage. Insurance 

can be purchased for the walls, 

floors, insulation, wall to wall 

carpeting, furnace, and other items 

permanently attached to the 
41

structure. (Permanent items include 

anything that would not fall out if 

you turned your home upside down; 

i.e., items that stay with the building 

when it is sold.) Up to 10 percent of 

the policy value for building coverage may apply to a detached garage 

or carport on the same lot.

If you buy insurance for 80 

percent or more of the replacement value of your home, you will 

be reimbursed for the replacement 

value of damage to your home— 

no depreciation will apply. If your 

coverage is for less than 80 percent, 

you will be reimbursed for the actual 

cash value of the damage—replacement value minus depreciation.

Contents coverage. Contents 

coverage insures your personal 

property. Renters as well as owners 

may purchase contents coverage. 

Although you can get contents 

coverage without having a building 

coverage policy, those contents must 

be located in a building that can be 

insured under the NFIP. Contents 

coverage will pay some costs to 

move and store contents in a safe 

place when a flood threatens.

Basements. Building coverage 

is recommended to cover the walls, 

floor, furnace, and other structural components of a basement. 

However, the NFIP does not cover 

finished portions of a basement 

(carpets, wallboard) or its contents. 

Damage to the basement foundation 

is a major problem during floods, so 

this coverage can be very important 

even though it does not cover the 

finished portions (carpets, wallpaper) of basements. Some private 

companies sell coverage for water 

damage caused by sewer backup or 

sump pump failure—items that are 

not covered by the NFIP.

NFIP flood insurance is sold 

through private insurance agents 

and companies. All companies offer 

identical coverage and rates.

Newer or substantially improved 

homes are charged according to 

their elevation in relation to the 

expected flood level. Older homes, 

which are “grandfathered” in, 

qualify for a flat, subsidized rate. 

Homes outside floodplains that are 

identified on Flood Insurance Rate 

Maps (FIRMs) pay lower rates. You 

can check your property’s location 

on a FIRM at your building department or an insurance agent’s office.

A few private insurance companies sell their own flood insurance 

policies, although the coverage and 

rates are different from the NFIP’s. 

Some mobile home insurance covers 

flood losses. Unlike the NFIP, private insurance will vary from company to company, so check several 

for their coverage and rates.

If you are located in a floodplain 

shown on a FIRM, you must buy 

flood insurance coverage as a condition of having a mortgage or home 

improvement loan from a federally 

regulated lender or as a condition 

for getting federal disaster assistance. 

In some cases, private insurance 

will suffice for this requirement, 

but generally the lender or disaster 

assistance agency will ask to see an 

NFIP policy.

9

STEP

Prepare for the Next Flood
42

9

STEP

Prepare for the Next Flood 

Flood Response Plan

Preparing a flood response plan 

will help you think through all the 

details that will demand attention as 

the floodwaters approach. This is a 

project for the whole family. As you 

write down the plan, you can make 

sure everyone understands it. And 

having the plan in writing will help 

you remember what to do when 

everyone is in a hurry and nervous 

because a flood is coming.

The next flood might be worse 

than the last one. Talk to your 

building official or city or county 

engineer about that possibility. See 

Step 8 for information on the flood 

protection level in your area to use 

as you prepare your flood response 

plan.

Check with your local emergency 

manager or Red Cross chapter for 

the official warning and evacuation 

procedures. Find out how much 

warning time you will have to leave 

your home before the flood reaches 

you. Identify a friend, relative, or 

motel where you can go when you 

are asked to evacuate. Test drive 

your evacuation route to be certain 

it will be passable when flooding is 

likely. Be prepared to evacuate when 

told to do so or if you see floodwaters rising. You may hear flood 

warning and evacuation information 

on your local radio and TV stations.

Make a record of all your personal property. Go through your 

home room by room recording 

household inventories and taking 

photographs or videos. Inventory 

forms are available from most insurance companies, or you can use 

the format shown in Step 3. Keep 

photocopies of inventory records, 

insurance policies, deeds, and other 

valuable papers at a different location, someplace outside of the floodprone area. 

If flooding in your area is from 

sewer backup or basements, your 

own water alarm can give you precious lead time before your belongings are damaged by floodwaters. 

A water alarm is similar to a smoke 

alarm; it beeps when water touches 

it. Water alarms cost $10 to $20 and 

are available at hardware stores.

Develop a flood response plan 

based on the flood protection level, 

local warning procedures, and the 

estimated time you will have to respond. In flash flood areas, you may 

only have enough time to evacuate. 

But if you live in areas in the path 

of a hurricane or on large rivers, you 

may have 12-24 hours of warning 

time.

Flash Floods

If you live in a mountainous area, 

or if your flooding comes from a 

small stream or ditch, your home 

may be subject to flash flooding. 

Flash floods can occur before the 

local emergency managers have time 

to issue a warning. In these cases, 

the National Weather Service may 

issue a flash flood watch advising 

people that conditions are favorable 

for a flash flood. You may not be notified of a flash flood warning before 

flooding actually begins.

Hurricanes

If you live near the coast, you will 

be asked to evacuate when a 

Don’t Wait

Buy flood insurance protection 

before the next flood is threatening. 

There is a 30-day waiting period before NFIP flood coverage takes effect. 

Contact your insurance agent for 

information on rates and coverage.

Flood Watch, Flood 

Warning

Floods can take several hours to days 

to develop.

•	 A flood watch means a flood is possible in your area.

•	 A flood warning means flooding 

is already occurring or will occur 

soon in your area.
43

hurricane threatens your community. It is important to evacuate 

when you are asked to. Prepare your 

flood response plan to take into 

account all of the time that you will 

need to protect your home before 

you evacuate. You will need time to 

board your windows and to clear 

your yard so that your belongings 

will not blow or float away. You may 

also want to take time to move your 

belongings above the flood protection level (see Step 8).

Developing a Checklist

Your flood response plan should 

be a checklist of steps to take before 

floodwaters reach your home. The 

following are examples of things to 

include:

❏ Listen to local radio or TV stations for flood information and 

evacuation instructions.

❏ Read the flood safety precautions 

on the inside front cover of this 

document.

❏ Get in the habit of keeping a full 

tank of gas in your car, especially 

at times of the year when flooding can be expected in your area.

❏ Pack the car with supplies you 

need while away from home.

❏ Put supplies needed for cleanup 

and recovery in a safe place. If 

your flood protection level is over 

your top floor, you may have to 

store supplies at a friend’s home 

away from the flood-prone area 

or take them with you in your 

car.

❏ Take pets to a kennel or a friend’s 

place on high ground. Health 

codes do not allow animals in 

public shelters.

❏ If you have enough warning 

time, move your contents above 

the flood protection level or to 

another safe place. Some of the 

cost of doing this can be covered 

under an NFIP flood insurance 

policy.

❏ Install flood shields and other 

floodproofing measures you may 

have prepared.

❏ In hurricane-prone areas, protect 

against wind damage. Install hurricane shutters or plywood covers 

over windows and doors, take 

down TV antennas, and securely 

tie down boats, garbage cans, and 

everything else left outdoors.

❏ Tape plastic around the cap to 

your well. This will prevent most, 

but not all, floodwater from entering your water supply. You will 

still have to disinfect your water, 

as explained in Step 5.

❏ Turn off the electricity, gas, oil, 

and water.

❏ Lock your home.

❏ Follow your designated evacuation route to a place of shelter.

If You Are Asked to Evacuate

Take essential disaster supplies 

with you. See ARC 4463 on page 

46. 

Community Activities 

Your neighborhood or community can take steps to reduce flood 

losses in the future. Recent flooding 

may prompt local governments to 

start a flood planning effort that encourages citizens to participate. If no 

effort is underway, encourage your 

community leaders to start a flood 

protection program.

9

STEP

Prepare for the Next Flood

Flash Flood Watch

If it is raining a lot, or if you are in 

mountainous areas, it’s a good idea 

to keep listening to local radio or 

TV stations (not stations in locations away from where you are). If 

you hear a flash flood watch for your 

area, it’s a good idea to stay on high 

ground.

If you hear a flash flood warning, 

climb to higher ground immediately. 

Leave your car, camping gear, or 

other belongings where they are. You 

may have only minutes to escape.

Flash floods can happen without 

warning. If you hear a rumbling 

sound, if animals are running away 

from where you are, or if you feel 

the ground shaking, climb to higher 

ground immediately.
44

9

STEP

Prepare for the Next Flood 

There are many ways to reduce 

flood damage. a community flood 

protection program should consider 

a variety of activities. The obvious 

solution often seems to be “fixing” 

the shoreline or river using flood 

control projects such as dredging or 

seawalls. Unfortunately, these activities may not be effective, feasible, or 

affordable without state or federal 

aid. Because flood control projects 

require so much planning, time, 

and money, communities should 

also consider and implement other 

approaches.

Keeping the ditches and drainageways open is very important. 

Trash, construction materials, shopping carts, and even grass clippings 

dumped in a ditch can clog bridges 

and culverts, and add to water pollution.

Neighborhood efforts to keep the 

ditches clean and to report dumpers can make a big difference in 

the amount of flooding, especially 

during smaller storms. Report illegal 

floodplain construction activities 

(i.e., those without a permit posted) 

to the building department.

You can work with your neighbors to monitor stream levels or 

rain gauges to give the community 

advance warning. It may also be 

possible to monitor common debris 

catching sites, such as bridges, and 

keep the openings clear.

Sandbagging

Sandbagging can be very expensive. If your community wants to 

establish a plan for sandbagging, you 

will have to buy sandbags before a 

flood to be sure you have them on 

hand. Get burlap or plastic sandbags. Other kinds of bags simply 

won’t hold up. Burlap or plastic bags 

cost 25 to 50 cents each. Sand and 

plastic sheeting must also be stockpiled.

Sandbagging can also be very 

time consuming. It takes two people 

approximately 1 hour to fill and 

place 100 sandbags, giving you a 

wall 1 foot high and 20 feet long. If 

you skimp on the bags, you risk putting up a wall that will be knocked 

over.

When a flood is imminent, 

everyone wants to sandbag, usually 

because they don’t know what else 

to do. While it does have a therapeutic effect, sandbagging should be 

considered only as part of an overall 

flood response plan, or as a last 

resort for individuals.

A good plan will help use your 

limited time and resources most 

efficiently. For example, a flood response plan might call for sandbags 

to fill in gaps in a floodwall.

Sandbagging is supposed to keep 

water away from vulnerable floodprone properties. Floodproofing 

measures and moving contents out 

of the way are much more secure 

methods to accomplish the same 

thing. Therefore, before you consider sandbagging for your property, 

consider the flood protection alternatives discussed in Step 8. They are 

more effective and more dependable 

ways to protect a home from 

flooding.
45

Sources of Information

The following sources can provide 

advice or assistance on flood recovery. Some may be able to speak 

to neighborhood groups or help 

in developing a community flood 

protection program.

Flood Preparedness and Safety

The American Red Cross and 

local emergency managers conduct 

sessions to increase public awareness and to educate the community 

in ways to prevent, prepare for, 

and cope with emergencies. Local 

emergency managers also sponsor 

public meetings on damage reduction, safety, response planning, how 

to handle stress, and other floodrelated topics.

The following publications are 

available from the American Red 

Cross. Contact the Red Cross 

(1-202-303-5000) for more information:

•	 Your Family Disaster Plan (ARC 

4466)

•	 Your Family Disaster Supplies Kit

(ARC 4463)

•	 Safe Living in Your Manufactured 

Home (ARC 4465)

•	 Are You Ready for a Flood or Flash 

Flood? (ARC 4458)

•	 Are You Ready for a Hurricane? 

(ARC 4454)

Cleanup

Many Cooperative Extension Service offices have home economists 

and food and farm experts. Check 

your telephone book under the 

name of your county. For example, 

if you live in Pittsburg County, look 

under Pittsburg County Cooperative Extension Service.

Questions on cleaning or disinfecting of specific materials can be 

answered by manufacturers of cleaning products. Check the product labels for toll free telephone numbers.

Flood Insurance

Your property insurance agent is 

the best source of information on 

flood insurance. He or she can give 

you forms and instructions for making your own property inventory. 

a free copy of Answers to Questions 

About the National Flood Insurance Program, is available from the 

Federal Emergency Management 

Agency (http://www.fema.gov/business/nfip/qanda.shtm). 

Repairs and Rebuilding

Local building and housing 

departments, and hardware stores 

are excellent sources of technical 

advice. Their staffs have many years 

of experience in dealing with local 

construction conditions. Home 

maintenance and repair books that 

are found in libraries or bookstores 

are invaluable references for the doit-yourselfer.

Private home inspectors can give 

you itemized lists and cost estimates 

of needed repairs. (Look in the yellow pages under Building Inspection 

Services.) Building trades associations and the Better Business Bureau 

can provide guidance on dealing 

with contractors. 

9

STEP

Prepare for the Next Flood
46

9

STEP

Prepare for the Next Flood 

Floodproofing

Some local building officials 

and are familiar with floodproofing 

techniques. Several states and communities have published floodproofing or “retrofitting” manuals. 

FEMA and the U.S. Army Corps of 

Engineers have several publications 

that provide excellent summaries of 

various floodproofing measures. The 

following are available free from:

FEMA Distribution Center

4440 Buckeystown Pike

Frederick, MD 21704

or call: 1-800-480-2520

•	 Elevated Residential Structures, 

FEMA 54.

•	 Floodproofing for Non-Residential 

Structures, FEMA 102.

•	 Coastal Construction Manual, 

FEMA 55.

•	 Protecting Manufactured Homes 

from Floods and Other Hazards,

FEMA P-85.

•	 Engineering Principles and Practices of Retrofitting Floodprone 

Residential Structures, FEMA 259.

•	 Homeowner’s Guide to Retrofiting, 

FEMA 312.

The following are available for 

free from: 

U.S. Army Corps of Engineers 

441 G Street, NW

Washington, D.C. 20314-1000

1-202-761-0011

•	 Flood Proofing Tests, Tests of Materials and Systems for Flood Proofing Structures, U.S. Army Corps 

of Engineers, National Flood 

Proofing Committee, 1988.

•	 Flood-Proofing Regulations, U.S. 

Army Corps of Engineers (Corps 

publication EP 1165-2-314), 

1990.

•	 Raising and Moving the Slab 

on Grade Home with Slab Attached, U.S. Army Corps of 

Engineers,1990.

•	 Flood Proofing - How to Evaluate 

Your Options, U.S. Army Corps 

of Engineers, 1993.

•	 Flood Proofing - Techniques, Programs, and References, U.S. Army 

Corps of Engineers, 1996.

Information on technical aspects 

of floodproofing can be obtained 

from the Association of State Floodplain Managers. Call 1-608-227-

0123 9:00 a.m. - 4:00 p.m., Central 

Time.

FEMA Regional Offices

FEMA Headquarters

500 C Street, SW.

Washington, DC 20472

(202) 646-2500, (800) 621-FEMA 

(3362)

TTY: (800) 462-7585

Region I – CT, MA, ME, NH, 

RI, VT

99 High Street, Sixth Floor

Boston, MA 02110

(617) 956-7506

Region II – NJ, NY, PR, VI

26 Federal Plaza, Suite 1337

New York, NY 10278-0002

(212) 680-3600
47

Region III – DC, DE, MD, PA, 

VA, WV

615 Chestnut Street

One Independence Mall, Sixth 

Floor

Philadelphia, PA 19106-4404

(215) 931-5608

Region IV – AL, FL, GA, KY, 

MS, NC, SC, TN

3003 Chamblee Tucker Road

Atlanta, GA 30341

(770) 220-5200

Region V – IL, IN, MI, MN, 

OH, WI

536 South Clark Street, Sixth Floor

Chicago, IL 60605-1521

(312) 408-5500

Region VI – AR, LA, NM, OK, 

TX

Federal Regional Center

800 North Loop 288

Denton, TX 76209-3698

(940) 898-5399

Region VII – IA, KS, MO, NE

9221 Ward Parkway, Suite 300

Kansas City, MO 64114-3372

(816) 283-7063

Region VIII – CO, MT, ND, 

SD, UT, WY

Denver Federal Center, Building 

710 

P.O. Box 25267

Denver, CO 80255-0267

(303) 235-4800

Region IX – AZ, CA, HI, NV, 

American Samoa, Guam, Commonwealth of the Northern 

Mariana Islands, Republic of 

the Marshall Islands, Federated 

States of Micronesia

1111 Broadway, Suite 1200

Oakland, CA 94607-4052

(510) 627-7100

Region X – AK, ID, OR, WA

Federal Regional Center

130 228th Street, SW.

Bothell, WA 98021-8627

(425) 487-4600

9

STEP

Prepare for the Next Flood
48

A

Adjuster 11, 12, 15, 19, 26, 29-30

Air conditioning 10, 14, 16

American Red Cross 2, 4, 13, 24, 

28, 31, 42, 43, 45 

Animals 5, 7, 15, 27, 40, 43

Anxiety 1, 2, 32

Appliances 

Cleaning 3, 25

Gas 5, 6, 20

Protecting 9, 35-36

B

Baseboards 17-18, 37

Basement 8-12,19, 23, 34, 36, 39-

41

Berms 33, 34

Bleach 22, 23, 25, 26

Books 7, 15, 26, 45

Builders 29, 38

Building permit 12, 32, 35

C

Cabinets 7, 14

Calcium chloride 15

Carpet 12, 13, 15, 19, 25, 35-37, 

40-41

Ceiling 6-7, 8, 13, 16-17, 19

Children 2-3

Chimney 20

Cleaning

Advice 3, 9-10, 21-25, 28, 45

Cleaners 25

Supplies 24, 45

Closets 14, 15, 24

Clothing, cleaning 26

Community activities 43

Computers 15, 27

Concrete 18, 33, 34, 36, 37

Contractors 15, 29, 33, 38, 39, 45

Contracts 12, 39

Cosmetics 15

Counseling 1, 28, 31

Crawlspace 10, 19, 34

Credit cards 13

Crisis counseling 1, 31

D

Dampness 14

Dehumidifier 14-15

Depression 1

Desiccants 14-15

Disaster assistance 11, 20, 28, 30-

31, 41

Dishes, cleaning 2, 3, 23, 26

Disinfectants 24-25

Drywall, see Wallboard

Drying 13-15,18-19, 22, 25, 27

Ducts, heating or cooling 10, 14

E

Electrical system

Circuit breakers 5, 21

Cleaning 10, 13, 21

Electricity safety 4-5 8, 18, 21

Fuse boxes 5, 21

Turning off 5

Turning on 13

Elevation 33, 41

Evacuation supplies 43, 45

F

Fatigue 1, 3

Financial assistance 13, 28-32

Flash floods 42-43

Flood insurance 7, 11-12, 20, 28-

30,35,40-43,45

Claims 11, 29-31

References 46

Flood protection

Community activities 43

Emergency steps 42

Floodproofing 2, 11, 31-39, 40, 

43-44, 46

Assistance 31

References 46

Flood protection level 32-36, 40, 

42-43

Flood response plan 40, 42-44

Flood warning 42-43

Flood watch 42-43

Floodwall 33-34, 36, 40, 44

Floor 5, 7-10, 12-13, 19, 23, 33, 

37, 40

See also Carpet

Flooring 7, 17, 37

See also Carpet

Foam rubber 15, 19

Food 26-27, 31, 36

Foundation 9, 12-13, 19, 33, 34, 

38, 41

Fuel oil 6, 20

Furnace 13-14, 20, 35-36, 41

Furniture 7, 10, 13, 15, 35, 40

Cleaning 24-25

G

Garbage 15-16, 27,43

Gas system, 5-6, 20

Checking for leaks 5, 20

Gas meter 6

Turning off 5-6

Turning on 20

Generators 4, 9

Government assistance 30-31

Grants 31

Grass 27, 44

Gypsum board, see Wallboard

H

Health precautions 1-3, 9

Humidity 14, 19

Index
49

Hurricanes 42-43, 45

References 46

I

Income tax 11, 31

Information sources of 45-47

Insulation 16-19, 23, 25, 38, 40

Insurance

Agent 11, 29, 41-42, 45 See also 

Adjuster

Coverage 11, 40-41

Flood 7, 11-12, 20, 28, 29, 30, 

35, 40-3, 45

Homeowner’s 11

Wind and hail 11, 29

Inventory 11-12, 42, 45

K

Kitchen ware 26

L

Lawn 27

Leather cleaning 13, 26

Levee 33-34

Lights, see Electrical system,

Appliances

Linoleum 19, 25, 38

See also Flooring

Loans, disaster 28, 31

LP gas, see Gas system

M

Mattresses 15

Medicine 2

Mildew 7, 14-15, 18, 24-26, 36

Mildew-resistant paint 36

Mobile (manufactured) home 23, 

30, 40, 45-46

Mold 14-18

Mosquitoes 27

Moth crystals 27

Mud 6-7, 9-10, 14, 16, 19, 21, 23, 

26-27

N

National Flood Insurance

Program, 29, 40-43,45

O

Oil, see Gas system

Outlets, see Electrical system

Outreach programs 1-2

P

Paint 25, 36, 37

Paneling 19, 38-40

Permit, building 12, 35, 44

Pets, see Animals

Photographs 7, 26, 42

Plan for recovery 11-13

Plants 27

Plaster 6, 16-18, 24

Plywood 16, 37-38, 43

See also Wood, Floors,

Paneling, Windows

Power, see Electrical system

Prescriptions 2

Proof of Loss 12, 29-30

Propane, see Gas system

R

Rebuilding, see repairs

Records 11, 27, 42

Recovery plan 11-13

Regulations, see Building code

Red Cross, see American Red

Cross

References 45-47

Repairs 4, 11, 13, 23, 29, 30-31, 

35, 45

Temporary 7-8

Roof 5, 8

Rugs, see Carpet

S

Safety checklist 6

Sandbags 34, 44

Septic system 23

Sewage disposal 13, 20, 23

Sheetrock, see wallpaper

Stress 1-2

Structural damage 6, 12, 35

Substantially damaged, definition 

32, 35

T

Tile 19, 36

Toys 2, 15, 36

Trash, see Garbage

U

Unheated. See Winterizing

Utilities. See also Electrical system,

Gas system, Water supply

Restoring 20-23, 36

V

Valuables 7

Video 5, 11, 15, 29, 42

Camera 5

Volunteer organizations 3, 28

W

Walls 5, 7-10. 12-13, 16-18, 24, 

33-38, 40-41

Basement 8-9, 40

Drying 13, 16-18

Cleaning 10, 24, 36

Protecting 33-35

References 45-47

Wall covering 18, 38, 41

Wallboard 6, 7 13, 14, 16-18, 24, 

35-39, 41

Wallpaper, see Wall covering

Warnings 42-44

Water, drinking 2, 5, 8, 10

Water alarm 42

Water heater 20, 23, 35, 36

Waterproofing 34, 36, 37

Water supply 8, 10, 22, 43

Well water 23

Windows 8, 14, 24, 35, 38, 43

Cleaning 24

Winterizing 23

Wires, wiring, see Electrical system

Wood 8, 10, 14-19, 24-25, 35-38, 

43

See also Walls, Floors, Furniture,

Cabinets

Important Phone Numbers

Police Insurance Agent

Fire Homeowner’s Insurance Policy

Ambulance Company

Emergency Management Office Number

Neighbors/Relatives Flood Insurance Policy

American Red Cross Company

Power Company Number

Gas Company Wind and/or Hail Insurance Policy

Water Company

Health Department Number

Poison Control Center Hardware Stores

FEMA Disaster Hotline (announced if there is a Federal 

disaster declaration) 

Lumber Companies

Cooperative Extension Service
FEMA P-234

Catalog No. 09119-1

FEMA

U. S. DEPARTMENT OF

HOMELAND SECURITY