Energy-saving tips, techniques and recommendations 

for owners of manufactured (mobile) homes

Manufactured Homes:

SAVING MONEY

BY SAVING ENERGY

August 2005

U.S. Department of Housing and Urban Development

Office of Policy Development and Research
Visit PD&R’s Web site www.huduser.org to find this report and others sponsored by HUD’s Office 

of Policy Development and Research (PD&R).

Other services of HUD USER, PD&R’s Research and Information Service, include listservs; special 

interest, bimonthly publications (best practices, significant studies from other sources); access to 

public use databases; hotline 1-800-245-2691 for help accessing the information you need.
Energy-saving tips, techniques and recommendations 

for owners of manufactured (mobile) homes

Manufactured Homes:

SAVING MONEY

BY SAVING ENERGY
ii

August 2005 Manufactured Homes: Saving Money by Saving Energy

Available to the public from:

U.S. Department of Housing and Urban Development

Office of Housing and Development and Research

451 7th Street, SW

Washington, DC 20410

Web site: http://www.huduser.org/

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

This project was made possible through funding from the US Department of 

Housing and Urban Development (HUD). Michael Blanford and David Engel with 

HUD recognized the need for this guide and provided invaluable leadership and 

editorial guidance.

This publication was prepared by the Manufactured Housing Research Alliance with

the assistance of The Levy Partnership, Inc. and D&R International, Ltd. Emanuel 

Levy, Jordan Dentz, Sandra Ho and Chris O’Neal (The Levy Partnership, Inc.) and 

Chris Rivera (D&R International, Ltd.) were principally responsible for writing the guide 

and coordinating the contributions of other manufactured home experts.

This publication would not have been possible without the valuable advice and 

input of many people. Special thanks go to Alex Wilson, Mark Peipkorn and 

Julia Jandrisits of Building Green, Inc. Major contributions were also made by 

weatherization professionals who are on the front lines of improving energy efficiency 

of existing homes in America, including Bill Beachy and Anthony Cox (New River Center 

for Energy Research and Training), Bob Scott (West Virginia Weatherization Assistance 

Program) and Cal Steiner (North Dakota Weatherization Assistance Program). Thanks 

also to those who reviewed and commented on drafts of this guide, including Elizabeth 

Cocke, Victor Ferrante and Rick Mendlen (HUD), Brian Ng and Chandler Von Schrader 

(Environmental Protection Agency), Larry Boyce (Nordyne, Inc.), Gerald Colburn (Rheem 

Water Heaters), Francis Conlin (ComfortWorks), Robert Garcia (Fleetwood Enterprises, 

Inc.), Omar Gaudette, Steven C. Church and Julie A. White (Whirlpool Corp.), Mike 

Kinard (Kinro, Inc.), Keith Ledet (GE Consumer Products), Michael Lubliner (Washington 

State University), Michael McKitrick (Alcan Composites, Inc.), Neil Moyer (Florida Solar 

Energy Center), Joe Neer (ITW Foamseal), Mark Nunn (Manufactured Housing Institute), 

Chris Parish (Parrish Manor), Kathy Presciano (GE Lighting), Dwight Schuler (Owens 

Corning, Inc.), Terry Small and Doug Hayes (Mortex Products, Inc.), Jim Welz (Philips 

Products) and Alan Zimmerman (York International Corp.).

NOTICE: This booklet was prepared by an agency of the United States government. 

Neither the United States government nor any agency thereof, nor any of their 

employees, nor the authors, makes any warranty, express or implied, or assumes 

any legal liability or responsibility for the accuracy, completeness, or usefulness of 

any information, apparatus, product, or process disclosed, or represents that its use 

would not infringe privately owned rights. Reference herein to any specific commercial 

product, process, or service by trade name, trademark, manufacturer, or otherwise 

does not necessarily constitute or imply its endorsement, recommendation, or favoring 

by the United States government or any agency thereof. The views and opinions of 

authors expressed herein do not necessarily state or reflect those of the United States 

government or any agency thereof.
Is making your home more energy efficient the right step for you?......................1

Using this guide...............................................................................................................3

Improve heating system performance.........................................................................6

Improve cooling system performance.........................................................................9

Eliminate leaks in ducts..............................................................................................12

Improve lighting efficiency..........................................................................................17

Improve refrigerator performance..............................................................................19

Improve water heater performance...........................................................................21

Reduce solar heat........................................................................................................24

Improve window performance....................................................................................27

Eliminate leaks in the walls, floor and ceiling..........................................................29

Insulate walls, floor and ceiling...................................................................................32

Lifestyle tips to saving energy.....................................................................................35

For more information...................................................................................................37

TABLE OF CONTENTS

ii

1

Manufactured Homes: Saving Money by Saving Energy August 2005

IS MAKING YOUR HOME MORE ENERGY 

EFFICIENT THE RIGHT STEP FOR YOU?

Why older manufactured homes are good candidates for 

energy efficiency retrofits:

• All homes experience wear and tear. Whether your home is five or 50 

years old, chances are good that it can benefit from cost-effective measures 

to improve its energy efficiency. Wind, vibrations, sunlight and seasonal 

temperature changes can loosen up a tight home, increasing air leakage; 

windows may no longer close tightly, and ductwork can spring leaks, wasting 

huge amounts of heating or cooling energy. Furnaces, air conditioners, and 

water heaters that have been running for years gradually lose efficiency, 

especially if regular cleaning and maintenance hasn’t been done. 

All these things add up!

• Technologies change. While your manufactured home may have been built 

to the energy standards of the time, dramatic progress has been made over 

the past few decades with high-efficiency mechanical equipment, insulation, 

windows, and so forth. Our understanding of how to retrofit manufactured 

homes for energy savings has also improved through years of experience—as 

has our knowledge of how to prevent moisture problems.

• Energy costs are going up. Whether you use electricity, natural gas, propane, 

or oil, many experts believe that prices will continue to rise. Improving your 

home now guards against future increases, and rolls back the costs you’re 

paying today. 

Five good reasons why an energy retrofit makes sense:

• Lower energy and homeownership costs

• Protection against future increases in energy costs

• Improved comfort—Fewer drafts, more comfortable temperatures, 

less temperature fluctuation floor-to-ceiling and from room to room, less 

chance of moisture problems

• Increased resale value—A home with lower operating costs is worth more

• Environmental stewardship—Saving energy reduces the burning of fossil fuels 

that contributes to global warming, acid rain, smog and other kinds of pollution
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August 2005 Manufactured Homes: Saving Money by Saving Energy

How to tell if you can benefit from improving your home’s 

energy performance:

Your home is a good candidate for upgrade if:

• You have significantly higher utility bills than neighbors with similar homes 

and lifestyles.

• Your home was built before 1994 (and especially before 1976) and hasn’t been 

significantly improved or upgraded.

• Your heating, cooling, or water heating equipment breaks down a lot.

• You feel drafts inside on windy days.

• The air near the floor is significantly cooler than the air near the ceiling.

• You have to wait a long time for hot water, and water cools off quickly 

between uses.

• You have to set the thermostat below 70° to stay cool in the summer.

• You have trouble keeping your home warm in winter or cool in summer.

• There are large fluctuations in your utility bills from month to month, and especially 

from the same month of the previous year.

• There is condensation on the inside surface of your windows in the winter.
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Manufactured Homes: Saving Money by Saving Energy August 2005

The energy efficiency retrofit ideas described in this guide have been selected 

because they provide excellent energy savings. In general, more expensive 

techniques result in greater savings, but the inexpensive techniques described 

here can also lower your energy bills substantially. This guide will help you choose 

the most cost-effective ways to reduce energy use that fit your budget and your 

home’s characteristics and location. There are many ways to save energy and 

reduce costs. The techniques covered here provide exceptional value for owners 

of manufactured homes; most techniques will pay for themselves relatively quickly 

through energy savings.

The retrofit techniques are divided into ten categories shown in Table 2. Each 

category contains a number of related techniques. In general, the top item(s) in 

each category are easier to complete and cost less. The techniques in the latter 

categories typically require greater skill and cost more, but they also provide greater 

energy savings.

Table 2 also indicates the approximate cost and skill level of each technique and 

the climate in which that technique is most appropriate. Although energy bills can 

vary from home to home, in general, you’re in a colder climate if your energy bills 

are highest in winter, and you’re in a hotter climate if your power bills are higher in 

summer. An explanation of the symbols used in the table and throughout the guide 

is provided below.

 Especially important information or cautions about things to avoid or risks 

of certain techniques.

 Tip for additional energy savings or other benefits.

USING THIS GUIDE

1 Costs are rough approximations and will vary depending on the size and condition of your home as 

well as the specific products and techniques chosen to implement the energy-saving retrofit measure. 

For do-it-yourself measures this is the cost of materials only. If the technique is listed as PRO 

(requiring professional assistance) then it is the fee charged by the contractor.

2 This is a rough estimate of the skill level required to install a given measure.

3

Table 1. Key to symbols describing 

each energy-savings technique

Energy Savings

Approximate Cost1

Skill2

Feature

This technique provides exceptional energy savings relative 

to its cost.

No cost

Cost less than $100

Cost between $100 and $500

Cost over $500

No skill required; for example, changing a light bulb or a filter.

Ability to use basic tools and follow directions; for example, 

installing water heater insulation wrap.

Must be very handy; for example, fabricating and installing a 

simple storm window.

Requiring professional skills and equipment; for example, 

installing insulation in the walls.

Symbol

FREE

$

$$

$$$

Low

Medium

High

PRO

Definition

Table 1
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August 2005 Manufactured Homes: Saving Money by Saving Energy

Table 2. Energy-saving techniques 

described in this guide

1. Improve heating system performance 1

• Clean or replace the furnace filter

• Have a pro maintain and tune up the furnace 

• Replace the furnace

2. Improve cooling system performance 2

• Clean or replace the air filter H

• Clean the condensing cooling coils

• Have a pro perform seasonal maintenance H

• Replace the air conditioning system

Category

• Technique

All

All

All

Approximate 

Cost

Low

Pro

Pro

Home 

Climate

Skill Page 

Number

6

6

7

7

FREE or $

$

$$$

9

9

10

10

10

11

FREE or $

FREE

$

$$$

FREE or $

Medium

Medium

Low

High

High

High-Pro

12

13

13

14

14

15

15

$

$

FREE

$

$

$

5. Improve refrigerator performance

• Operate your existing refrigerator properly

• Buy a new refrigerator

6. Improve water heater performance

• Insulate the tank 

• Insulate water pipes leading from the tank

• Lower the water heater thermostat

• Clean the tank

• Install low-flow showerheads and faucet aerators

• Replace your water heater

7. Reduce solar heat

• Install sun screens

• Install exterior awnings

• Apply reflective window film

• Use interior shades to block sunlight

• Install a reflective roof coating

8. Improve window performance

• Install interior storm windows

• Install plastic disposable window insulating kits 

9. Eliminate leaks in the walls, floor and ceiling

• Patch/replace torn or missing bottom board

• Seal gaps and cracks in the walls, floor and ceiling

• Cover window air conditioners

• Seal leaky windows

• Fix poorly fitting exterior doors

10. Insulate walls, floor and ceiling

• Add insulation to the floor

• Add insulation to the roof

• Add insulation to sidewalls

All

All

All

All

Low

Medium

Low

Low

$

$

FREE

$

All

All

Low

Low

FREE or $

$$-$$$

All

All

All

All

All

All

Medium

Low

Low

Medium

Low

Pro

$

$

FREE

FREE

$

$$

All

All

All

All

All

High

Medium

High

Medium

Pro

$$

$$-$$$

$$

$$

$$$

All

All

All

All

All

Medium

Medium

Low

Low

Medium

$

$

FREE or $

$

$

All

All

Colder

Pro

Pro

Pro

32

33

33

34

$$$

$$$

$$$

Colder

Colder

Medium-High

Low

$$-$$$

$

17

17

18

18

18

19

19

20

24

24

24

25

26

26 

27

28

28

29

29

30

31

31

31

All

All

All

All

All

All

3. Eliminate leaks in ducts

• Seal supply duct connections to boots, and registers 

• Seal duct ends 

• Make sure all registers are fully open 

• Seal and insulate crossover duct and connections

• Inspect and repair ducts from under the home

• Seal beneath the furnace

21

21

22

22

22

23

23

4. Improve lighting efficiency

• Replace incandescent light bulbs with CFLs 

• Install energy-saving controls on exterior lights

• Clean fixtures

• Use low-wattage light bulbs

1 This recommendation applies to all but the hottest climates.

2 This recommendation applies to all but the coldest climates.

• Other techniques to reduce air conditioner energy cost

All

All

All

All

All

Low

Medium

Pro

Pro

Low

Table 2
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Manufactured Homes: Saving Money by Saving Energy August 2005

Table 3. Getting help—a list of 

programs that offer financial and 

other assistance 

5

The next section describes each technique in detail, including:

 • How to tell if the technique makes sense for you by describing where 

the technique has the most benefit.

• The level of skill required—whether the project is suitable for a 

homeowner to perform (and if so, the level of skill required), or if it 

requires professional assistance.

• Enough detail for you to carry out a simple do-it-yourself (DIY) technique—

or for more complex projects, a basic description of what a professional 

contractor will do and where to get more information.

• Approximate costs of doing the project.

Weatherization 

Assistance Program

State energy offices

Home Performance 

with ENERGY STAR®

Program

Free home weatherization for 

qualified applicants; often have 

long waiting lists.

Find energy efficiency resources 

by state.

Refer you to a qualified contractor.

How to Contact

www.eere.energy.gov/weatherization

Yellow Pages under “weatherization”

www.eere.energy.gov/states

www.energystar.gov

What They Can Do

Utilities

Municipal programs

Contact your power company

Yellow Pages under city, country, or town

Some utilities offer rebates or 

other incentives for energy 

efficiency upgrades.

Available in some areas.

When selecting a professional 

contractor, choose one who has 

experience with the specialized 

techniques and construction 

characteristics of manufactured 

homes. Your state’s Weatherization 

Assistance Program (see Table 3) 

may be able to direct you to a list 

of potential contractors. You can 

also locate contractors through 

your electric utility, manufactured 

home retailer, and the yellow 

pages or by talking to neighbors. 

Always choose licensed 

contractors and check their 

references. Select a contractor 

with a track record of satisfied 

customers and plenty of 

experience with your type 

of project.

Questions to ask a contractor

Ask for a written estimate of 

the work based on a set of plans 

and/or written specifications. 

If you are comparing estimates, 

be sure they are based on the 

same specifications and scope of 

work. Beware of an exceptionally 

low price. Find out whether the 

contractor uses a detailed, written 

contract. The contract should spell 

out the work that will and will not 

be performed and provide a 

fair payment schedule. Ask 

contractors if they offer a 

warranty, and if so, what kind 

and for how long. Professional 

contractors should carry 

insurance that protects you 

from claims arising from property 

damage or jobsite injuries. Ask 

for a copy of the contractor’s 

insurance certificate.

Doublecheck the 

contractor’s qualifications

Check with your local or state 

office of consumer protection 

and the local Better Business 

Bureau. Ask if they have had 

any complaints about the 

contractor and if so, whether they 

were resolved satisfactorily. Check 

with your state’s licensing agency 

and the state and local building 

inspectors to see if they have 

received any complaints about 

the contractor and to verify that 

the contractor has the appropriate 

licenses and registrations.

Selecting a professional contractor

A list of common-sense, low-cost or no-cost lifestyle tips that you can implement 

today to lower your energy bills appears on page 35. A list of resources for additional 

information is provided on page 37.

Each chapter includes a description of an energy-saving tip, the goal of the tip—or what 

you will achieve-indicators that will help you determine whether the tip makes sense for 

your home, and various techniques to achieve the goal.

Table 3
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August 2005 Manufactured Homes: Saving Money by Saving Energy

 Installing a filter.

When installing the new filter, 

make sure the air-flow arrow on 

the filter points the right way.

 Clean the filter.

It is especially important to clean 

pleated filters at least monthly. 

These filters are more efficient 

at removing dust, so they get dirty 

more quickly than conventional 

filters, which can lead to less 

efficient operation and shorter 

furnace life.

Description

Most manufactured home heating systems have two main parts: a furnace that heats air, 

and ducts that channel the heated air throughout the home. This section 

discusses the furnace. 

The furnace—often located inside a closet—generates heat by burning natural 

gas, propane, or oil, or by using electricity. Heated air from the furnace is then 

blown through ducts (which may be under the floor or in the attic), and finally 

through registers or grates into various rooms. 

Goal

A heating system that operates efficiently reduces energy use while providing 

the necessary comfort. High efficiency is important, particularly in colder 

climates. There are several components in a manufactured home heating 

system that need to be properly maintained. Following the tips in this guide 

will keep your heating system running smoothly and efficiently, and increase 

its lifespan.

Indicators

If you answer YES to any of these questions, heating system 

maintenance is especially important for your home:

• Are you in a colder climate?

• Do you find it difficult to keep your home warm in the winter?

• Does your heating system experience frequent breakdowns?

• Is one part of the house much colder than others?

• Do you use a space heater to supplement your heating system?

• For combustion furnaces only, can you see soot near the roof jack (chimney) cap?

 This may indicate improper flame adjustment.

Techniques

There are some simple things you can do yourself to make sure your heating system 

operates smoothly; other actions require the help of a professional. For older heating 

systems, replacement may be the best option.

Clean or replace the furnace filter 

(FREE or $, low skill)

Filters help keep the furnace’s heat exchanger and blower clean by removing dust from 

your home’s air. Furnace filters are generally made of fiberglass or plastic fibers, or 

porous foam that allows air to pass through. Return air from the house is filtered as it 

is pulled through the filter.

IMPROVE HEATING SYSTEM 1 PERFORMANCE

Inside a typical electric 

furnace closet

Cooling coil

Fan (blower)

Heat 

exchanger

Fresh air 

ventilation 

duct

Typical floor duct system
7

Manufactured Homes: Saving Money by Saving Energy August 2005

Dirty filters reduce the efficiency of your furnace by restricting airflow. Some filters are 

designed to be vacuumed or washed, but most are disposable and need to be replaced 

when they become clogged. Replacement is an easy task that most homeowners can 

do themselves. Some high efficiency filters might also restrict airflow, so check with a 

professional service technician before installing.

Filters may be located in a number of places in a furnace, depending on the make 

and model. The diagram at right shows some of the more common locations.

While electric furnaces and heat pumps always have air filters, some gas and oil 

furnaces do not. If you have a furnace without an air filter, you should install one. 

Check with a heating system technician if you are unsure how to add a filter. 

During the heating season check the air filter every month, and clean or replace it 

if it appears dirty. Filters typically cost a few dollars at most and are available at 

hardware stores and home improvement centers.

Have a professional maintain and tune up the furnace

($, PRO)

Hire a professional service technician periodically to check thermostat operation; clean, 

adjust, and lubricate moving parts; tighten electrical connections and inspect electrical 

parts; check fuel connections; test the combustion efficiency; and inspect controls and 

the starting function. How often you should have professional service depends on how 

much your heating system operates. For homes in colder regions, annual service is 

recommended. Heating systems in warm regions should be serviced every 

2 to 3 years. In hotter regions, every 3 to 5 years is enough.

Replace the furnace 

($$$, PRO)

Furnaces are expensive, but are candidates for replacement if they’re worn out, 

inefficient, or bigger than your house needs. (An oversized furnace can use a lot more 

power or fuel than a properly-sized one.) Some indicators that you will be better off 

with a new furnace are:

• The furnace is over 25 years old.

• The furnace combustion efficiency, as tested by a service technician, is lower 

than 65 percent.

• The heat exchanger is cracked, which you or a service technician may notice 

during cleaning or inspection.

• Repair or modification would cost more than half as much as replacement.

 Vent kerosene and gas heaters. 

Unvented kerosene and gas 

heaters should be avoided. 

Kerosene heaters can be a fire 

hazard, and both kerosene and 

gas heaters introduce water 

vapor to the home (a byproduct 

of combustion). If not operating 

properly, unvented kerosene 

and gas heaters can release 

dangerous indoor air pollutants.

 Look for incentives.

Check with your local electric 

utility about rebates or tax credits 

for installing a heat pump.

Possible furnace filter locations
8

August 2005 Manufactured Homes: Saving Money by Saving Energy

• The furnace does not operate well and can’t be fixed.

• You’ve sealed your home’s walls, floor, ceiling (page 29) and ducts (page 13), 

installed storm windows (page 28), and performed heating system 

maintenance–and you still can’t keep your home warm.

• The pilot light in the furnace burns continuously.

A heating system technician can help you evaluate whether a new furnace is 

appropriate. As part of this evaluation, the technician should measure the efficiency of the 

existing furnace.

If you have an electric furnace and high heating bills, then consider replacing it with 

a heat pump. A heat pump combines heating and cooling functions and, in the heating mode, 

is far more efficient than electric-resistance heat. The more common air-source heat pumps 

are appropriate for all but the hottest and coldest climates.

 Combustion Furnaces.

Choose only a sealed 

combustion furnace specifically 

designed for use in a manufactured 

home. Sealed combustion 

furnaces draw in the air needed 

for combustion directly from the 

outside, not from the home itself.
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Manufactured Homes: Saving Money by Saving Energy August 2005

Description

There are two broad categories of air conditioners: individual room 

units (the kind usually mounted in windows), and central systems. 

Central air conditioners can be further categorized into split systems, 

in which the compressor/condenser is located outdoors, while the 

evaporator is inside the home; and packaged systems, in which the 

entire unit sits outside with ducts carrying air to and from the house. 

In either type of central system, chilled air is blown through ducts 

(located either under the floor or in the attic), and into the living space 

through registers or grates (see diagrams). 

Goal

An efficiently operating cooling system is critical to decreased

energy use and increased comfort, particularly in warm climates. 

A well-maintained air conditioning system will use 15% to 40% 

less energy than a neglected one. There are several components in 

cooling systems that need to be properly maintained. Following the 

tips in this guide will extend the life of your cooling system, and keep 

it running smoothly and efficiently. 

Indicators

If you have central air conditioning or a heat pump and answer YES

to any of these questions, cooling system maintenance is especially 

important for your home:

• Are you in a hot climate?

• Do you find it difficult to keep your home cool in summer?

• Does your cooling system experience frequent breakdowns?

Techniques

There are some simple things you can do to make sure your cooling system 

operates smoothly; other actions require the assistance of a professional. 

With older and inefficient cooling systems, replacement is often the best option.

Clean or replace the air filter 

( FREE or $, low skill)

Air conditioners will have an air filter to prevent dirt from building up on the cooling 

coils. Examine your unit’s filter once a month during the cooling season, and clean or 

replace it when it appears dirty (which can indicate clogging). This alone can reduce 

your cooling energy use by 5% to 15%. Many filters are designed to be cleaned, but 

still may need to be replaced occasionally. This is an easy and inexpensive task that 

most homeowners can do themselves. Filters in room air conditioners are usually 

behind the front panel. Most split-system central air conditioners use the furnace’s air 

filter (see page 5, clean or replace the furnace filter). In packaged systems, the filter is 

generally found in the main “return-air” register. The system’s user’s manual should help 

you locate it.

9

Split system air conditioner

Packaged system air conditioner

Furnace with 

evaporator 

coils

Trunk 

duct

Compressor/

Condenser

Return register

Trunk 

duct

Branch 

duct

Packaged condenser/ 

evaporator unit

Supply register

IMPROVE COOLING SYSTEM 2 PERFORMANCE
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August 2005 Manufactured Homes: Saving Money by Saving Energy

Sizing your air conditioner.

Bigger is not always better 

when it comes to your air 

conditioner. For starters, 

oversized equipment can be 

less effective at dehumidifying 

your house. Not only can this 

lead to moisture problems in a 

home, but the higher humidity 

may force you to lower the 

thermostat to achieve the same 

comfort level—increasing your 

energy use. An oversized unit 

also cycles on and off more 

frequently, which increases wear 

and tear, shortens the service life, 

increases the frequency of repairs, 

and reduces efficiency. Plus, 

it costs more to purchase 

oversized equipment in the first 

place. If purchasing a new air 

conditioner, cooling loads should 

be carefully calculated by your 

equipment supplier. 

Clean the condensing cooling coils 

(FREE, medium skill)

Clean the condenser annually by following these simple steps:

1. Turn off the system at the thermostat, if possible, or turn the thermostat up to a 

setting that will not switch on the air conditioner. Also, turn off the power to the 

outdoor unit at the main breaker panel or at the disconnect located next to the 

outdoor unit.

2. Remove any loose debris from around the unit and clean it with gentle household 

soap and water.

3. Allow the outdoor unit to dry completely before turning on the power at the main 

breaker panel. After the main power has been restored, turn on the system at the 

thermostat or set the thermostat for normal operation.

Have a professional perform seasonal maintenance 

on central air conditioning systems 

($, PRO)

Air conditioner adjustments and repairs should be done by professionals. A professional 

service technician should clean evaporator and condenser coils, check refrigerant 

pressures, and adjust and lubricate moving parts. How often you need professional 

maintenance depends on how much your cooling system operates. For homes in hotter 

regions (where the air conditioner operates eight or more months per year), annual service 

is recommended. Cooling systems in warm regions (where the air conditioner operates 

five to eight months per year) should be serviced every 2 to 3 years. In colder regions 

(where the air conditioner operates less than five months per year), every 3 to 5 years is 

usually enough.

Replace the air conditioning system

($$$, PRO)

In some situations it will make sense to replace an older air conditioner with a new, 

high-efficiency unit. Air conditioner replacement should be considered if the existing unit 

is worn out, inefficient, or significantly oversized.

Repairing an existing air conditioner may seem to be the least expensive option, but it 

may cost more in the long run. Paying for repairs on an older, inefficient system may simply 

prolong the inevitable need for replacement. Installing a new, energy-efficient system may be 

much more cost-effective. 

 Inspect duct dampers.

If you have a packaged system 

as described on page 9, inspect 

the duct damper and if necessary, 

repair or replace it. Air conditioning 

systems that share ductwork with 

a furnace must have a damper 

in the duct. It prevents cool air 

from entering the furnace cabinet 

in summer, and warm air from 

escaping to the air conditioner 

in winter. A missing or 

malfunctioning damper can 

waste tremendous amounts 

of energy and lead to corrosion 

of the furnace.

Evaporative coolers.

If you live in a hot, dry climate, 

such as the Southwest, an 

evaporative cooler (swamp cooler) 

may be a good alternative to a 

refrigerant-cycle air conditioner. 

Evaporative coolers use 

considerably less energy than 

standard air conditioners. 

Check with a local air conditioning 

contractor to find out if such 

a system makes sense for 

your home.
11

Manufactured Homes: Saving Money by Saving Energy August 2005

Air conditioner replacement makes sense if: 

• The air conditioner is over 10 years old.

• The air conditioner efficiency (SEER or EER) is below 7 or 8.

• Repairs or modifications of an existing unit will cost more than half as much 

as a replacement.

• The unit does not operate properly and can’t be fixed.

• You’ve sealed your home’s walls, floor, ceiling (page 29) and ducts 

(page 13), installed storm windows (page 28), and performed cooling 

system maintenance, but still can’t keep your home cool.

A cooling system technician can help you evaluate whether a new air conditioning 

system is appropriate.

Air conditioners have an EnergyGuide label that tells you how much electricity 

they use based on standard test conditions. Pick one with a low annual energy 

cost—the smaller the number of kilowatt hours (kWh), the less it will cost to operate. 

The triangular-shaped arrow should be to the left-of-center on the energy-use line.

Look for ENERGY STAR qualified models, which carry the ENERGY STAR logo on 

the product or the box. These models are among the most energy-efficient units sold. 

If you are going to replace your central air conditioner and you have electric heat 

in your home, consider replacing the air conditioner with an ENERGY STAR qualified heat 

pump. A heat pump combines heating and cooling functions and, in the heating mode, is 

far more efficient than electric-resistance heat. The more common air-source heat pumps 

are appropriate for all but the coldest and hottest climates.

Dispose of old air conditioners properly. Make sure that they aren’t returned to service, 

and that the refrigerant is properly captured for responsible disposal. Contact your local 

municipal solid waste agency to make arrangements for disposal.

Other techniques to reduce air conditioner energy cost 

(FREE to $, low skill)

Here are a few additional steps you can take to reduce your cooling energy use:

1. Supplement your air conditioner with fans. The air movement will make you 

feel cooler and allow you to raise the thermostat, reducing air conditioner 

energy use. Turn off fans, including ceiling fans, when you’re not in room—

leaving them on wastes energy and actually adds heat. Remember that ENERGY 

STAR qualified fans are not only energy efficient but also quiet.

2. Nighttime ventilation is another low-cost cooling strategy. If the 

temperature and humidity drop after the sun goes down, open 

the windows to exhaust indoor air and pull cool outdoor air into 

the house.

3. Sunlight on the exterior portion of your air conditioner will 

reduce its efficiency. Shade the outside components of a central 

system with trees, shrubs, or a fence and place room units on the 

north and/or east side of the house. Be sure not to restrict airflow 

around the unit, however.

11

Shading an outdoor compressor can 

improve energy efficiency

EnergyGuide labels help you 

identify energy-efficient 

appliances.
12

August 2005 Manufactured Homes: Saving Money by Saving Energy

3 ELIMINATE LEAKS IN DUCTS

Description

Most manufactured homes have forced-air 

heating systems. Air from the home is forced 

through the furnace, where it is warmed by a 

hot metal heat exchanger or electric heating 

coils. The warm air is then blown through a 

system of ducts, and out into each room 

through registers. In most 

homes with central air 

conditioning, the same ducts 

are used for delivering chilled 

air during the summer. 

The ducts may be in the 

floor (most common) or 

in the ceiling (usually only 

in hotter climates). Typically, 

each section of a manufactured home has a main trunk duct 

running its length. Multi-section homes (such as double-wide units) 

usually have crossover ducts that connect the main trunk ducts. With ceiling-duct 

systems, the crossover is in the attic and usually inaccessible. In floor-duct systems, 

the crossover is beneath the home and accessible from the crawlspace (see diagrams). 

Leaky ducts are common in older manufactured 

homes and can dramatically increase heating 

and cooling bills. It is not uncommon for an 

older duct system to lose 20% of the heated or 

chilled air to the outside. If your annual heating 

and cooling bill is $2,000 and your ducts are 

leaky, you could be spending $400 every year to 

heat and cool the outdoors.

Goal

Compared to other energy upgrade measures 

in a typical manufactured home, sealing the 

ductwork has one of the largest payoffs relative 

to its cost. You’ll save on your heating and 

cooling bills, enjoy increased comfort, and 

reduce the risk of moisture problems.

Indicators

Almost all homes can benefit from duct sealing. 

If you answer YES to any of these questions, your home may be especially in need of 

duct sealing:

• Was your home built before 2000?

• Is the heating and cooling air distribution in your home uneven—that is, do 

some rooms get a lot of air from the registers, while others don’t get enough?

• Is it difficult to heat or cool your home, even after having performed heating 

and air conditioning system maintenance?

• Does a visual inspection reveal a deteriorated crossover duct (see next page)?

Typical floor duct system

Common duct system leakage locations

Typical attic duct system
13

Manufactured Homes: Saving Money by Saving Energy August 2005

Techniques

Seal the largest leaks first. Duct sealing doesn’t require a lot of skill or 

expensive materials, but you will need time and some dexterity to get at 

hard-to-reach places. Here’s a list of common duct leakage sites, followed 

by repair suggestions:

Seal supply duct connections to boots and registers 

($, medium skill)

Supply ducts can be inspected from inside the home. First remove the 

registers. You can then inspect the ducts using a mirror and flashlight 

(see figure). By placing a utility light in one register and looking toward 

it with a mirror from the next register, you can inspect for leaks and 

obstructions between those two registers. The main areas to focus 

on are connections from the main trunk duct to the supply boots that 

connect to the registers. Other important sites are connections to the 

branch ducts, furnace, and crossover ducts. Other types of systems 

that don’t use main trunk ducts may require variations on this 

inspection method. 

To seal connections from supply boots to registers, follow these steps:

1. Turn off the furnace fan and remove the register grille 

(there is usually a screw at each end).

2. Clean the duct surfaces (see the box Duct sealing materials on 

page 16).

3. Inspect with a mirror and/or feel the joint between the boot 

and duct for gaps and tabs that may not be folded tightly 

against the duct.

4. Fold down any loose tabs and apply reinforcing mesh tape to 

the corners where the boot meets the duct.

5. Apply mastic (see the box Duct sealing materials on page 16).

6. Replace the register grille.

Seal duct ends

($, medium skill)

The ends of ducts are often major leakage sites. These can be sealed from the inside 

of the home by cutting a piece of metal flashing to fit the duct and inserting it into the 

duct from the last register at each end of the duct run. Seal the metal flashing insert 

with foil tape and mastic.

13

Inspecting the duct with a 

hand-held mirror

Sealing around a register with 

duct mastic —view from inside 

the duct

Mastic

Boot

Inside the

main duct

Boot sealed with mesh tape 

and mastic

Floor

Boot

Main duct below
14

August 2005 Manufactured Homes: Saving Money by Saving Energy

Make sure all registers are fully open 

(FREE, low skill)

Preventing air from flowing out of the registers will make the heating and cooling system 

less efficient. Make sure registers that have movable louvers are kept in the open position 

or remove the louvers entirely. Also make sure registers are not covered by rugs or furniture.

Seal and insulate crossover duct and connections 

($, high skill)

Pay particular attention to the crossover duct in multi-section homes. One indicator of 

a crossover duct leak is if the side of your home where the furnace is located gets a lot 

more air from the heating and cooling system than the other side. In this case, much 

of the air going to the second side may be leaking out of the crossover duct into the 

crawlspace.

Crossover ducts are often insulated flexduct—inner and outer wire-reinforced plastic 

tubes with fiberglass insulation sandwiched between. The flexduct connects to a metal 

collar, which in turn connects to the main trunk duct. Both connections should be 

sealed.

When inspecting the crossover duct, make sure it is firmly connected to the home’s 

rigid duct at both ends, and that there are no gaps, tears or other openings in it. The 

crossover duct should be supported off the ground with strapping or blocks. Inspect 

the crossover duct while the furnace fan is running. Feel for air leaking out at all the connections, at each end of the duct, and at any patches.

If the flexduct connection is loose or leaky, re-do the connection by following 

these steps: 

1. Make sure the collar is screwed to the main trunk duct with at least three screws 

to prevent it from moving or rotating.

2. Seal the collar to the main trunk duct with mastic or foil tape.

3. Apply a ring of duct mastic or putty tape around the collar, and tighten the 

flexduct’s inner ring lining against this sealant. Use a long plastic cable tie as 

a permanent clamp. Duct mastic will last much longer than putty tape.

4. Seal the inner lining of the flexduct to the collar with duct mastic or aluminum tape.

5. Pull the flexduct’s insulation up over the collar, and tape it to the underside of the 

trunk duct. Cover the tape with mastic.

6. Tighten the outer layer of the flexduct over the collar and use another cable tie 

to fix it in place.

7. Install three pan-head screws just under the cable tie so the heads of the screws 

clamp down on the tie.

Sometimes old ducts are torn or deteriorated. Replace them with new flexduct—preferably 

with at least R-8 insulation. When replacing a crossover duct, keep it straight and use the 

minimum length necessary.

The crossover duct connection must be 

tightly sealed

Main 

trunk 

duct

Metal collar

Flexible 

crossover

duct

 Duct tape can be used to hold 

things together while you create 

a permanent seal, but use duct 

mastic, not duct tape, for a 

long-lasting seal.

Fastening the inner lining of the crossover duct 

to the collar
15

Manufactured Homes: Saving Money by Saving Energy August 2005

Inspect and repair ducts from under the home 

($, high skill)

At connections where branch ducts meet the main duct, holes must be 

sealed from underneath the home. You might have to cut openings in 

the bottom board to access the ducts. (Don’t attempt this unless you’re 

prepared to seal the bottom board back up when you’re done!) Working 

under the home can be difficult and hazardous: wear goggles, gloves, 

long-sleeved shirts and other protective gear. To locate joints in the duct 

system, look inside the house for registers that are offset from the main 

duct. Using exterior walls and windows as reference points, measure 

to the place where the ducts meet. Use those measurements in the 

crawlspace to determine just where to cut through the bottom board. 

Seal these joints with duct mastic, then repair any penetrations through 

the bottom board. (See Patch/replace torn or missing bottom board

on page 29.)

Seal beneath the furnace 

($ materials, high skill to PRO)

This is the area in the duct system with the highest air pressure, so it’s the most 

important place to seal. A metal box, or plenum, typically connects the furnace to the 

main duct. The seams between the furnace and the plenum, and between the plenum 

and the main duct, should be carefully sealed. 

You can usually access the plenum from underneath the home, following these steps:

1. Cut open the bottom board beneath the furnace and push aside the insulation.

2. Cut an 8 to 10-inch square or rectangular temporary access hatch in 

the bottom of the duct directly under the furnace—but only cut three sides 

of the hole, leaving a flap. Through this temporary hatch, you can see the 

furnace-to-duct connection and can seal any leaks with duct mastic and 

fiberglass-reinforcing mesh tape. The cut metal will have sharp edges. 

Line the edges of the hole temporarily with duct tape to prevent injury.

3. Seal the temporary access hatch that you cut into the duct using duct mastic 

and fiberglass tape, replace the insulation and patch the bottom board. 

(See Patch/replace torn or missing bottom board on page 29.)

Duct access hatch sealed with mastic

Bottom board

Main duct

Patch sealed 

with mastic

 Seal cracks closest to furnace 

fan. Cracks in areas with the highest 

air pressure (closest to the furnace 

fan) will leak the most air. Sealing 

them will have the biggest impact 

on energy savings.

 Do not block louvers or grilles.

Air needs a path to get back to the 

furnace. Never block the louvers or 

grilles in doors or walls enclosing 

the furnace.
16

August 2005 Manufactured Homes: Saving Money by Saving Energy

Thoroughly clean the duct first with a solvent or steel wool before patching. To seal, do not use 

duct tape. Before long, the adhesive will fail and the tape will fall off. Recommended materials are:

• Silicone caulk is excellent for sealing small holes and narrow cracks. It is widely available 

at home improvement centers.

• Aluminum-foil-faced butyl tape is available from heating and cooling wholesalers. Use only 

UL181A foil tape for metal ducts or UL131B for non-metallic ducts. It is good for large holes and 

cracks, especially in corners. If possible, install tape on the inside of ducts, because air pressure may 

eventually push it off if it’s on the outside. Clean and dry surfaces well and tightly stretch the tape over 

the duct. For a longer-lasting seal, secure the tape with staples (into wood) or mastic (on metal).

• Acrylic duct mastic, a thin putty available from heating and cooling equipment suppliers and 

mail- order suppliers of weatherization materials. This is the best duct-sealing material. It can be 

installed with a brush, spatula, or your fingers if you wear rubber gloves. For larger openings or gaps, 

use fiberglass mesh tape to reinforce the duct mastic. Special tape designed for mastic is available 

or you can use standard gypsum wall board tape. The finished coat of mastic should be about 

1/8” inch thick and you should not be able to see the seam through the mastic coat.

Duct sealing materials

 Turn off emergency power.

Whenever working with a furnace, 

especially an electric furnace, 

turn off the emergency power 

switch first. 

In some situations, the seams may be accessible from inside the home without removing 

the furnace. Some furnaces have a bottom cooling coil compartment with a removable 

panel. If the furnace has such a compartment, but doesn’t have a cooling coil, it provides 

a way to access the main duct beneath the furnace. Also, the heating coils in an electric 

furnace can be taken out to provide access to the duct—though this is a difficult and 

potentially hazardous job that should only be attempted by a skilled technician. Similarly, 

the entire furnace itself can be temporarily removed to seal leaks, but this too is a job best 

left to professionals.
17

Manufactured Homes: Saving Money by Saving Energy August 2005

Description

Lighting is responsible for about 12% of the energy used in a typical American home.

Goal

Nearly every home can benefit from improved lighting efficiency. No matter the

type of lighting in your home, there are opportunities to lower your monthly energy 

costs by reducing your electricity use. You can also improve the quality of light at 

the same time.

Indicators

The average home has nine lights left on for more than three hours every day. 

Any light bulb burning more than two hours per day on average is a good candidate 

to be replaced with a compact fluorescent lamp (CFL).

Techniques

These simple techniques to lower lighting costs and improve lighting quality can

be done with little or no skill and low cost:

Replace incandescent light bulbs with compact fluorescents 

($, low skill)

CFLs use one-third to one-quarter the energy of incandescent bulbs, and last up to 

ten times longer. They screw into standard light bulb sockets, and are available in 

many sizes and shapes to fit almost any fixture. They’re more expensive to buy than 

incandescent bulbs, but save several times their purchase cost because of reduced 

electric use and longer life (less frequent replacement). 

The packaging for a CFL usually indicates the equivalent wattage of the 

incandescent bulb it replaces. For example, a 20-watt CFL gives off about the 

same amount of light as a 75-watt incandescent bulb. Note that CFLs take up to a 

minute to reach full brightness.

Look for ENERGY STAR qualified models, which carry the ENERGY STAR logo on the 

product or the box. These models are among the most energy-efficient units sold.

If you replace one 75-watt 

incandescent bulb (that costs 

75¢ and is on for four hours 

per day) with a 20-watt compact 

fluorescent lamp (that costs 

$5 and is also on for four hours 

per day), you’ll save about $3 

by the end of the first year, and 

more than $50 over the expected 

seven-year life of the CFL.

Example of savings from 

a compact fluorescent bulb

Turn lights off.

The lamp that uses the least 

energy is the one that’s switched 

off. Turn off the lights when 

you don’t need them.

4 

Compact fluorescent lamp

IMPROVE LIGHTING EFFICIENCY
18

August 2005 Manufactured Homes: Saving Money by Saving Energy

Install energy-saving controls on exterior lights 

($, medium skill)

Outdoor lighting should be off when it’s not needed. Photocell switches can automate lights 

by shutting them off when the sun comes up. Timers can automatically turn off outdoor 

lights in the evening, such as patio lights that are no longer needed when you go indoors. 

Motion sensors can turn on lights when they detect movement. These devices are available 

at hardware stores and home improvement centers for as little as $15. Hard-wired fixtures 

may require an electrician.

Clean fixtures 

(FREE, low skill)

Keep lamps, lampshades and light bulbs clean to maximize their light output. 

You may even find that once a fixture is clean, it gives off the same amount of light as a 

higher-wattage bulb.

Use low-wattage light bulbs 

($, low skill)

In some fixtures, it’s possible to use lower-wattage light bulbs and still get the amount of 

light you need.
19

Manufactured Homes: Saving Money by Saving Energy August 2005

Description

Refrigerators account for about one-sixth of the typical electric bill for an American 

home and 9% of the total energy used in manufactured homes. Old, inefficient models 

are good candidates for replacement. 

Goal

Today’s refrigerators use 40% less electricity than 20-year-old models. An old, inefficient 

refrigerator can cost up to $280 a year to run; a new, efficient refrigerator can save more 

than $150 each year over a 20-year-old model. While the savings will be less if replacing 

a newer refrigerator, it still will save between $35 and $70 per year. That’s $525 to $1,050 

during the 15-year typical lifespan of a refrigerator. 

Indicators

You should consider replacing your refrigerator if:

• The one you have now is more than 15 years old.

• Your refrigerator is not keeping food cold or is especially noisy.

Techniques

Replacing the refrigerator can generate the greatest savings, but other techniques 

can also improve the performance of your existing unit.

Operate your existing refrigerator properly

(FREE, low skill)

If you decide not to replace your refrigerator, these tips can help save money with your 

existing one:

• If the refrigerator is in direct sunlight or near an oven, dishwasher, or other heat 

source, it has to work harder to stay cool. Relocate it if possible, or shield it from 

excess heat.

• If the door seals aren’t airtight (they won’t hold a dollar bill snugly when closed) 

or if condensation forms around the door seals, replace them.

• The proper temperature for refrigerators is between 37° and 40° Fahrenheit; 

freezers should be between 0° to 5°. A refrigerator that’s 10° cooler than it 

needs to be can use 25% more energy. 

• Defrost manual-defrost models regularly. Less energy is needed when there’s 

no frost buildup.

• Make sure that air can circulate freely behind the refrigerator, or wherever the 

coils are located. Air flow is required to carry heat away.

• Periodically vacuum or brush the coils to improve efficiency. Refrigerator coil 

brushes are available at most hardware stores.

Old refrigerators are energy hogs 

that may cost as much as $280 

a year to run. Keeping one 

around as a second fridge is 

an expensive proposition. See 

if your local energy utility offers 

refrigerator recycling incentives 

and disposal programs, or 

contact your local municipal 

solid waste agency to make 

arrangements for disposal.

Dispose of old refrigerators

IMPROVE REFRIGERATOR 5 PERFORMANCE
20

August 2005 Manufactured Homes: Saving Money by Saving Energy

Buy a new refrigerator

($$-$$$, low skill)

Refrigerators have an EnergyGuide label that tells you how much electricity they use 

based on standard test conditions. Pick one with a low annual energy cost—the smaller the 

number of kilowatt hours (kWh), the less it will cost to operate. The triangular-shaped arrow 

should be to the left-of-center on the energy-use line.

Look for ENERGY STAR qualified models, which carry the ENERGY STAR logo on the 

product or the box. These models are among the most energy-efficient units sold. 

Check with your local utility to see if they offer rebates on new energy-efficient models, 

or recycling incentives for older models.

Other buying tips

• Refrigerator-freezers that have the freezer compartment on the top or the bottom 

are generally more energy efficient than side-by-side models of a similar size.

• Through-the-wall ice makers use a lot of energy.

• A refrigerator that’s bigger than you need can waste energy and space. 

One that’s smaller than you need can mean extra driving for groceries. Carefully 

consider what size is best for you. A full refrigerator uses less energy than an 

empty one.
21

Manufactured Homes: Saving Money by Saving Energy August 2005

IMPROVE WATER HEATER 

PERFORMANCE

Shut off power.

Before attempting any work on 

your electric water heater, make 

sure the power to it is shut off at 

the circuit breaker.

Take safety precautions. 

Important safety precautions 

must be taken when insulating 

a water heater. See the 

precautions listed at left.

Leaky faucets and showerheads 

can waste huge amounts of 

water—and energy—if hot water 

is leaking. A leak that produces 

one drop per second will waste 

over 190 gallons per month, or 

2,300 gallons per year. A leak 

that fills an 8-ounce cup in a 

minute will waste 2,700 gallons 

per month and 33,000 gallons 

per year—enough to fill a 

swimming pool!

Fix Those Leaks!

Water heater with 

insulation jacket

6 

Description

Most manufactured homes have conventional storage-tank water heaters located in 

closets. Older manufactured homes sometimes have smaller water heaters in kitchen 

cabinets instead. Electric and gas-fired water heaters are the most common.

Goal

Water heating accounts for about 15% of energy costs in a typical manufactured home. 

Improving the energy efficiency of the water heater can save a significant amount of 

money over the water heater’s lifetime.

Indicators

Nearly every home can benefit from water heater maintenance and efficiency

improvements. The more hot water your family uses, the greater the opportunities 

for savings. 

Techniques

There are a number of simple actions you can take to reduce your water heating costs.

Insulate the tank 

($, medium skill)

Insulating an electric water heater is one of the most effective and least expensive 

energy-saving steps you can take, saving more than enough money in one year to 

pay for the cost of the materials. After that, the savings go in your pocket. 

Insulation jackets for water heaters usually cost $20 or less at home centers. Follow 

the installation instructions that come with the jacket. Alternatively, standard fiberglass 

batt insulation can be used. Seal the seams with vinyl tape, and wrap the entire heater 

loosely with wire ties to hold the insulation in place. 

No matter how you choose to insulate the water heater, pay close attention to these 

safety instructions:

• Cover the sides and top of the heater, but cut flaps for the electric element 

access panels and the thermostat.

• Do not cover warning labels on the tank.

• Do not insulate gas or oil fired water heater tanks. Over time, the insulation 

may sag, blocking air intakes and creating a safety hazard.
22

August 2005 Manufactured Homes: Saving Money by Saving Energy

 Finding the right temperature.

If the water heater temperature 

isn’t high enough, there are some 

circumstances in which Legionella 

bacteria can grow—the cause of 

Legionnaires’ disease. Although 

120° is usually considered 

hot enough to prevent this, 

homeowners at high risk of 

susceptibility (such as transplant 

patients and smokers with chronic 

lung conditions) may be advised 

to keep their water heater settings 

higher (140°). Check with a 

physician if uncertain.

 When you’re away.

If you’ll be away for an extended 

period, turn the thermostat to the 

lowest possible setting—or turn 

the water heater off completely. 

Make sure you know how to relight 

the pilot light if your gas heater 

has one.

 Turn the power off.

Make sure the power is off to 

electric heaters before draining 

the tank. Exposing the electric 

elements to the air with the power 

on may cause them to burn out.

 Service the unit.

Older tanks that have never 

been cleaned will often require 

additional procedures. Check 

with a service technician.

Insulate water pipes leading from the tank 

($, low skill)

Insulating the water pipes slows heat loss. It also raises the temperature of hot water at 

the tap by 2° to 4°, which lets you lower the temperature setting on the water heater. Pipe 

insulation is usually a foam sleeve, slit lengthwise, that costs less than 50¢ per foot at home 

centers. Insulate all of the hot water piping that is accessible. It is especially important to 

insulate the first six feet of pipe coming out of the water heater. Fasten the insulation sleeve 

with electrical tape, wire or cable ties at least once per foot. For a snug fit, choose pipe 

insulation whose inside diameter is the same as the outside diameter of the pipe. Miter-cut 

corners and tape them closed. Insulating cold water pipes is also beneficial, especially 

in humid climates. It will reduce sweating in summer—a problem than can cause 

moisture damage.

Lower the water heater thermostat 

(FREE, low skill)

For every 10° you turn down the water heater, you’ll save about 3% to 5% on water 

heating costs. A setting of 120° (usually halfway between “low” and “medium”) is usually 

hot enough. If you have a dishwasher without booster heat, set the thermostat at 140° 

(typically “medium”). Some electric water heaters have two thermostats—one for each 

element. Adjust both to the same setting. Another benefit of lowering the thermostat is 

that it reduces the risk of children scalding themselves in the kitchen or bath. You can 

check the temperature of your water at the taps by continually running hot water in cup 

with a thermometer placed in it.

Clean the tank 

(FREE, medium skill)

Once a year, drain a gallon of water through the spigot at the bottom of the water 

heater to remove sediment, which decreases its energy efficiency—and can, in some 

situations, provide a more protected environment for Legionella bacteria to grow.
23

Manufactured Homes: Saving Money by Saving Energy August 2005

Install low-flow showerheads and faucet aerators

($, low skill)

If your showerhead was manufactured before 1995, it may use as much as 5 or 7 

gallons per minute, wasting a tremendous amount of hot water. Replacing it with a 

high-quality new one that uses no more than 2.5 gallons per minute will probably pay 

for itself in a matter of months—and you’ll be far less likely to run out of hot water. In 

many homes, the existing showerhead can be unscrewed and a new one installed. 

You’ll need a pipe wrench and Teflon® tape. Protect the finish with a rag while you work.

Low-flow aerators also reduce water use. They screw into standard faucets to reduce 

the flow and aerate the water, so that it still feels like a full flow. These cost just a dollar 

or two, and can pay back the expense in just a few months.

Replace your water heater 

($$, PRO)

If warranted, replace the water heater with a new, more efficient unit. If a water 

heater was manufactured before 1980, it may be cost-effective to replace it with a 

more efficient model. Always check the EnergyGuide label to determine the unit’s 

energy efficiency.
24

August 2005 Manufactured Homes: Saving Money by Saving Energy

Planting trees or shrubs can 

provide very effective shade. 

Deciduous trees (which loose 

their leaves in winter) provide 

shade in summer but allow 

solar heat in during the colder 

months. Taller trees without low 

branches on the south side will 

block the higher summer sun 

without blocking views. Smaller 

trees or shrubs on the east and 

west will block the lower summer 

sun, but they also impact views. 

If permanent plantings aren’t 

permitted or are impractical, 

vines on a temporary trellis 

and tall annuals can provide 

excellent shading. Consider 

clematis, morning glory, 

and sunflowers.

Also consider plantings 

for shade

24

Description

Sunlight coming in through the windows is a major contributor to cooling bills in many areas 

of the country. Trees and other foliage can be very effective in shading a home, but there are 

other relatively simple options available to reduce the heat while maintaining views. Blocking 

sunlight has other benefits, including less fading of furniture and carpets, more comfortable 

temperatures in rooms with large windows, and less glare.

Goal

Following these tips will reduce the cost of cooling your home and make it more 

comfortable during the hottest parts of the day.

Indicators

If you answer YES to any of these questions, you should consider ways to reduce your 

home’s solar gain:

• Are you in a hot climate? 

• Do you find it difficult to keep your home cool in summer, especially during 

mid-day and early afternoon, despite having a properly maintained 

cooling system?

• Do you have large windows facing west or east that receive direct sunlight 

in summer?

Techniques

There are some simple actions you can take to reduce the impact the sun has on

your cooling costs.

Install sun screens 

($$, high skill)

Sun screens are often the least expensive window-shading option that retains a full view 

through the window. Typical sun screens absorb more than a third of the sunlight’s heat. 

Most can be removed in winter when you may need the extra heat. Like regular window 

screens, sun screens have aluminum frames and are installed on the exterior side of the 

windows. They’re available in several colors and are often used to shade porches. Making 

an effective sun screen is difficult. You may wish to use a sun screen kit instead. Having 

a professional build and install custom sun screens should cost about $2 to $4 per 

square foot.

7 REDUCE SOLAR HEAT
25

Manufactured Homes: Saving Money by Saving Energy August 2005

Install exterior awnings 

($$-$$$, medium skill)

Awnings are expensive but popular in hot, sunny climates. They intercept solar 

heat before it gets to the window, which reduces the energy needed for cooling. 

When selecting awnings, consider:

• How much shade do you want? This is affected by how low the bottom of 

the awing extends (called the drop) and how far it sticks out.

• How important is it to maintain a view out the window? 

• How much will an awning cost? Do-it-yourself kits and store-bought 

(manufactured) awnings are less expensive than custom-made ones.

On the south side of the house, the drop should be 45% to 60% of the window height. 

Awnings on the east and west sides need to extend lower to block the morning or 

afternoon sun, which is low in the sky. These should have a drop of 60% to 75%. 

Awnings without sides will work better if they’re wider than the windows.

Apply reflective window film

($$, high skill)

Metallized plastic window films can block half to three-quarters of the sunlight’s heat 

and glare and prevent almost all of the ultraviolet rays from coming through the window. 

These films can lower your cooling bills in summer, but actually raise heating bills in 

winter, so they are generally more beneficial in hotter climates. The reflective film is 

installed on the inside of the window and makes the window more reflective when 

viewed from outside. Note that these reflective window films block daylight in addition 

to solar heat—though newer “low-e” films let through more visible light while stopping 

most of the heat. Reflective window films are difficult to work with, making for a 

potentially frustrating do-it-yourself project. Professional installation will cost about $3 

per square foot. Low-quality reflective films can become cloudy or start to deteriorate 

after just a few years; high-quality ones last longer and have scratch-resistant coatings.

Don’t confuse reflective window films with tinted films that color the glass. Those films 

absorb rather than reflect heat, so they’re not as effective in preventing solar heat from 

entering the home. They can actually heat the glass to high enough temperatures to 

cause damage.

Metal awning

Fabric awning with sides
26

August 2005 Manufactured Homes: Saving Money by Saving Energy

Use interior shades to block sunlight from entering the home 

($$, medium skill)

Window shades and blinds with metallized or bright white reflective surfaces can 

effectively block solar heat. The following table describes some options available 

at many window treatment retailers:

Install a reflective roof coating 

($$$, PRO) 

A great deal of unwanted heat gain enters a home through the roof—the less insulation, 

the more summertime heat gain. White roof coatings are available for metal, asphalt shingle 

and other types of roofs. These coatings will reflect more than 75% of the sunlight striking 

the roof. Most are acrylic and relatively easy to apply, although they do require working on 

top of the roof. They have the added benefit of fixing small leaks in the roof and extending 

its life. Light-colored roofs should be cleaned each year to keep them reflective.

Opaque roller shades 

with white surfaces 

facing the exterior

Roller shades with 

metallized plastic window film

White Venetian blinds

Type

No view or light when the 

shades are drawn.

Preserves the view and lets 

in some light

Blocks most of the view 

and light

Solar heat

Reduces solar gain by about 

80%

Reduces solar gain by about 

50%-75%

Reduces solar gain by about 

40%-60%

View and light

Table 4

Table 4. Window treatment options
27

Manufactured Homes: Saving Money by Saving Energy August 2005

Description

Storm windows can be installed over existing windows to improve their insulation value

and dramatically reduce air leakage and drafts. Separate, removable storm windows can 

be installed in seasons when heating or cooling is typically necessary (and the windows 

don’t need to be opened), and removed during more temperate seasons or if windows 

need to be operable for ventilation. Storm windows are most needed in cold climates, 

and less important in warmer regions. Triple-track storm windows, mounted outside 

the primary windows, open and close easily and provide screens, but they are quite 

expensive and generally must be installed by professionals. Interior storm windows 

have been found to work best for manufactured homes, and only these will 

be addressed here. 

Not all storm windows will work on manufactured homes because of the way 

windows are installed. Be sure you select windows suitable for your home.

Goal

Following these tips will reduce the cost of heating your home and make it more 

comfortable during the coldest times of the year.

Indicators

If you answer YES to any of these questions, you should consider adding

storm windows:

• Are you in a colder climate?

• Was your home built before 1976, and does it have the original windows? 

(After 1976, manufacturers were required to provide homes with either 

double-pane windows or storm windows in many parts of the country.)

• Was your home built after 1976, but the original storm windows are lost or 

broken (and your primary windows are single-pane)?

• Do you have jalousie windows?

• Do the windows feel uncomfortably cold in winter, and you notice drafts 

coming through them?

• Do your heating bills seem excessive?

Interior storm window with 

flexible plastic glazing

Jalousie windows with louvered 

pieces of glass are notoriously 

leaky and should be replaced.

8 IMPROVE WINDOW PERFORMANCE
28

August 2005 Manufactured Homes: Saving Money by Saving Energy

 Jalousie and awning windows.

Old jalousie and awning 

windows require special storm 

window frames with holes to 

accommodate the protruding 

cranks, or the cranks can be 

removed when the storms 

are installed.

 Fire escapes.

Don’t install a fixed storm window 

over a fire escape window without 

making sure that everyone living 

in the home can quickly and easily 

remove it.

Techniques

There are a number of options for adding storm windows to manufactured homes.

Install interior storm windows 

($$-$$$, medium to high skill)

A number of different types of interior storm windows are available for different budgets 

and primary window types. Storm windows are available from home improvement centers 

as kits or already assembled. The kits are designed to be installed by homeowners with a 

minimum of experience and tools. Preassembled storm windows usually require more skill 

and equipment. 

Interior storm windows can be fixed or sliding. Fixed storm windows are removed 

seasonally. Either the entire panel is removed, or the sash is removed and a frame 

remains behind. The bottom of a fixed storm window should be supported by a sill, clip, 

or on a wood or aluminum strip to support the window’s weight. Because they are removed 

seasonally, they can be lost or damaged. For the handy do-it-yourselfer, fixed storm 

windows can be made from wood frames and plastic sheeting.

Sliding storm windows are more expensive than fixed ones. They usually have aluminum or 

vinyl frames and a spring loaded latch. Their primary advantage is that they can be left on 

all year long and opened for ventilation. They’re compatible with vertical or horizontal sliding 

primary windows. 

Often a combination of fixed and sliding storm windows is the best solution, with the sliding 

windows being used for ventilation and emergency exit requirements.

When considering window material, the choice is either glass or plastic. Plastic glazing 

costs less than glass. It’s also lighter, which is a big benefit for removable storm windows. 

Both rigid plastics (acrylic and polycarbonate) and flexible plastics (vinyl, polyester, and 

polyethylene) are available. Each material has advantages and disadvantages. For example, 

acrylic is prone to scratching; polycarbonate may yellow over time; and thinner, flexible 

plastics may tear. 

Whatever type of storm window you choose, the frame should seal tightly and continuously 

against the interior wall or window trim using foam, foam tape, magnetic seal, or 

other method.

Install plastic disposable window insulating kits 

($, low skill)

These plastic kits, available at home improvement centers and other retail outlets, are 

designed to be applied over the primary windows for seasonal use. They install with 

double-sided tape and shrink to fit with heat from a hair dryer. Effective at reducing air 

leakage through cracks around windows and patio doors, these kits are a low-cost 

alternative to storm windows, but they can only be used once. 
29

Manufactured Homes: Saving Money by Saving Energy August 2005

ELIMINATE LEAKS IN THE WALLS, 

FLOOR AND CEILING

Bottom board penetrations sealed 

with patch and foam

9 

Description

Air leaking through the walls, floors, and ceilings of your home can have a significant 

impact on your heating and cooling bills, as well as your comfort. It can also contribute 

to moisture-related problems. While windows and doors are common sources of air 

leaks, more important leakage sites are often in less visible places. (Leaks in the ducts 

are also very important to seal. See page 12.)

Goal

Following these tips will reduce the unwanted exchange of warm and cold air through 

your home’s walls, floor, and ceiling, which will in turn result in lower heating and 

cooling bills. It will also make your home a lot more comfortable by reducing drafts.

Indicators

Almost all homes can benefit from air sealing. If you answer YES to any of these

questions, your home may be especially in need of sealing:

• Is your home more than 10 years old?

• Do you frequently feel drafts on windy days?

• In winter, is the air near the floor more than about 5° cooler than the air 

near the ceiling?

• Is it difficult to heat or cool your home—even after having performed heating 

system (page 6) and air conditioning system (page 9) maintenance?

Techniques

In general, large openings should be tackled first, then smaller ones, and finally the little 

holes and cracks. Most of these techniques do not require skill or expensive materials, 

but they will require time and care. Descriptions of common leakage sites—listed in order 

of importance—follow, along with repair suggestions.

Patch/replace torn or missing bottom board 

($, medium skill)

The bottom board (also called the belly or underbelly) is the protective 

covering on the bottom of the home. If torn, it can be a major source of 

air leakage, which will drive up energy costs—and a potential source of 

moisture problems. Patching the bottom board with durable materials 

designed for that purpose is the best way to reduce this type of 

energy loss. 

Bottom boards consist of either a flexible or rigid material. If you have 

a flexible bottom board made of paper or fabric, use similar material 

for a patch, or purchase special patching material from a manufactured 

home supply retailer. A combination of adhesives, foam and fasteners 

works best for producing a long-lasting, airtight seal. When possible, 

fasten patches to the floor joists with staples, nails, or screws. If no 

backing is available, you can use construction adhesive to glue the patch 

to the bottom board. 

Patching a rigid bottom board
30

August 2005 Manufactured Homes: Saving Money by Saving Energy

As you reduce air leakage 

through your home’s walls, 

floor and ceiling, take steps to 

avoid moisture problems. This 

is especially true in hot, humid 

climates for homes that are air 

conditioned. The following tips 

are useful for all homes:

• Make sure the ground is 

sloped in all directions to 

drain rain water away from 

the home.

• Ensure that kitchen and 

bathroom exhaust fans are 

operable and used regularly. 

Bath fans should be wired to 

the light switch and operate 

when the light is on. 

• Make sure that clothes 

dryer vents are unobstructed 

and exhaust directly to the 

outside, and are not vented 

to the crawlspace under 

the home.

 • Install and periodically clean 

rain gutters; use a downspout 

and extension to direct water 

away from the home.

• Maintain or install a 6-mil 

plastic vapor barrier on the 

entire ground surface under 

the home.

Avoiding moisture problems

 Sealing walls.

The most important surface 

to seal in manufactured homes 

is the interior wall surface. 

The exterior wall surface is 

designed as a weather barrier 

to prevent rain from leaking in. 

This surface is often is designed 

to be vented, so if water gets 

into the wall, it can dry to the 

exterior. Don’t seal the walls from 

the exterior except to stop water 

from leaking in.

A variety of materials are used for rigid bottom boards, including plywood, paneling, and 

rigid insulation. To patch a rigid bottom board, cut a rectangle around the damaged part 

and remove it. Then insert one or more pieces of wood or plywood (backer board), large 

enough to overlap the empty rectangular hole. Drive screws up through the bottom board 

and into this backer board to hold it tightly in place. This provides something rigid to secure 

the patch to. Cut a patch slightly smaller than the opening, and fasten it to the backer board 

with screws. Then caulk the joint around the patch, providing a good seal to the original 

bottom board.

Seal gaps and cracks in the walls, floor and ceiling 

($, medium skill)

To seal large openings, use a piece of material that is the 

same as or similar to the surface being patched. To cover 

a hole in a concealed area, such as behind a washing 

machine, cut a patch that overlaps the opening by a few 

inches on all sides. Apply adhesive around the opening, 

and press the patch into place. Use screws or nails if 

necessary. Then use caulk or expanding foam to seal 

remaining air leaks such as around a pipe, flue, or wiring 

that passes through the patch. 

Caulk works well for small cracks. Openings more than 

about a quarter-inch wide should be stuffed with foam 

rubber backer rod or some other compressible material, 

and then caulked or sealed with expanding foam.

For most indoor applications, a good quality latex caulk is satisfactory. It’s inexpensive, easy 

to apply, paintable, and cleans up with water. 

For exterior applications, more expensive silicone or polyurethane caulk will perform better. 

Areas that are exposed to heated surfaces such as around flues should be sealed with a 

caulk specially formulated for high temperatures.

Urethane foam sealant, available in a can, is excellent for sealing small to medium-sized 

openings in a wide variety of locations, including the bottom board.

Some common leakage sites include:

• Openings between the furnace closet and the attic and/or floor cavity.

• Plumbing penetrations where pipes enter exterior walls, or between exterior 

(unheated) water heater closets and adjoining rooms. Look under sinks, behind 

and under bathtubs, in back of washing machines, and around hose bibs and 

outdoor faucets.

• Penetrations for electrical outlets, service panels and light fixtures.

• Around flue and vent pipe penetrations and exhaust fans.

• Openings from closets and cabinets into walls, floors or attic.

Hole in floor at plumbing 

penetration behind tub
31

Manufactured Homes: Saving Money by Saving Energy August 2005

Cover window air conditioners 

($, low skill)

If left in place during the winter months, window air conditioners can result in significant 

air leakage through the unit. Interior and exterior covers, available at home improvement 

centers, can reduce this leakage. Or the units can be removed and the windows closed 

and weatherized. Seal all gaps around window air conditioners.

Seal leaky windows—particularly if they do not close properly 

($, low skill)

Weatherstripping or caulk can be used to seal cracks and gaps around window frames. 

Alternatively, do-it-yourself plastic window insulating kits, available at hardware stores, 

can reduce winter drafts coming from leaky windows. A more expensive option that also 

improves window insulation is to install storm windows (see page 28). 

Windows should be repaired if they no longer operate properly or if glass is broken. 

A contractor can help with this task. Replacing windows with more efficient models 

is generally not cost effective unless the windows are damaged and need to be 

replaced anyway.

When replacing windows, look for ENERGY STAR qualified models, which carry the 

ENERGY STAR logo on the product or the box. These models are among the most 

energy-efficient units sold.

Fix poorly fitting exterior doors 

($, medium skill)

If the door itself is in good shape but air leaks in around the edges, weatherstripping 

may be the answer. The first thing to check is whether door opens in or out.

Doors that swing out usually have weatherstripping attached in a track on the door 

frame, but sometimes on the door itself. The weatherstripping on these doors is 

typically a vinyl flap. The vinyl flap can be replaced, or you can add silicone tube 

weatherstripping to it.

Doors that open in are weatherstripped the same way as doors on site-built homes. 

Just follow the instructions on the packaging for the weatherstripping product you select.

When shopping for weatherstripping look for flexibility and longevity. Silicone rubber, 

neoprene rubber, and plastic-jacketed foam rubber are recommended. Vinyl tubing, 

felt and foam tapes generally will not perform as well or last as long.

If the door is so badly damaged that it needs to be replaced, look for ENERGY STAR 

qualified models, which carry the ENERGY STAR logo on the product or the box. 

These models are among the most energy-efficient units sold.

 Sealing windows.

Pay special attention to 

sealing jalousie and older 

crank-out awning windows, as 

these are often especially leaky.
32

August 2005 Manufactured Homes: Saving Money by Saving Energy

Add plastic sheeting.

Prevent rising damp by laying 

plastic sheeting on the bottom of 

the crawlspace. This can prevent 

condensation from making the 

insulation wet, which reduces its 

performance, and helps avoid 

moisture problems.

Description

Insulation in walls, floors, and ceilings acts like a blanket, keeping the heat inside 

your home in winter—and keeping the heat out of your air-conditioned home in summer.

Like a blanket, the thicker the insulation, the better it works. The performance level of 

insulation is called its R-value, which indicates its resistance to heat flow. (As R-value 

goes up, energy use goes down).

Insulation in manufactured home walls and floors is usually fiberglass batts. Ceiling 

insulation is usually loose-fill fiberglass or cellulose. Before the first energy crisis in 1973, 

most homes built in the U.S.—including manufactured homes—contained little insulation. 

The level of insulation used in homes has been increasing ever since. The recommended 

amount of insulation for a given house depends on its climate; colder climates generally 

demand more insulation.

Goal

Determine if your home is a candidate for adding insulation. Decide what part of your home, 

if any, should be insulated: floor, ceiling and/or walls. 

Indicators

Many manufactured homes can benefit from additional insulation. If you answer YES to any

of these questions, your home may be a candidate:

• Was your home built before 1994? (That year, stricter insulation standards went into 

effect.) If your home was built before 1976 and has never been upgraded, then it 

can almost certainly benefit from more insulation.

• Is it difficult to heat or cool your home—even after having performed heating 

system (page 6) and air conditioning system (page 9) maintenance, and sealing 

air leaks in the ducts (page 12), walls, floor and ceiling (page 29)?

• In colder climates, are the walls cool to the touch in winter?

• During the winter, is the air near the floor of your home at least 5° cooler than the 

air near the ceiling, and is the house drafty? 

• Using the techniques described in the box Measure your existing insulation level

on page 34, is your home significantly underinsulated—and is there room for more 

insulation to be added to your floor, ceiling and/or walls?

Techniques

In general, adding insulation to the floor is the most cost-effective approach with 

manufactured homes, followed by adding insulation to the ceiling. The amount of insulation 

that can be cost-effectively added to wall, floor, or ceiling cavities depends on the amount 

of insulation already there, how much empty space remains, and your local climate and 

fuel costs.

Adding insulation to a manufactured home is almost always best done by professionals 

since specialized equipment is usually required and incorrect installation can damage 

the home. 

The following descriptions will give you an idea of what a professional contractor will do 

when upgrades are performed.

INSULATE THE WALLS, FLOORS, 10 AND CEILING
33

Manufactured Homes: Saving Money by Saving Energy August 2005

Add insulation to the floor 

($$$, PRO)

Floors in older manufactured homes can lose a lot of heat in cool climates 

due to relatively low levels of insulation. Floors can also be a big source of air leakage 

which wastes energy and can cause moisture problems. Floor insulation is commonly 

added to manufactured homes by blowing loose fiberglass wool through a hose into 

holes cut in the bottom board. The holes should be sealed with a durable patch (see 

page 29) after the insulation is added. Alternatively, insulation may be added through 

a fill-tube inserted into holes cut in the home’s rim joists. Take care not to damage the 

joists’ structural integrity. These holes should also be patched.

Add insulation to the roof 

($$$, PRO)

Adding insulation to roof cavities is cost effective in most climates for manufactured 

homes that don’t have adequate ceiling insulation. The primary benefit is reduced winter 

heating loads, but it also reduces summer cooling costs. Typically, roof cavity (ceiling) 

insulation is blown in through holes in the ceiling, holes in the roof, or holes through the 

raised edge of a home’s metal roof. If insulation is added through the ceiling, holes will 

need to be drilled between each roof truss, and in each half of double-section homes. 

The holes should be patched afterward with gypsum board, plastic plugs or trim board. 

If blown through the roof, the roof must be repaired afterward to prevent water leakage. 

Insulation can also be blown in from the end of the home with a long pipe. Before adding 

insulation to the roof cavity, the ceiling should be sealed against air leakage to prevent 

insulation dust and fibers from blowing into the living area.

Another method of adding roof insulation to manufactured homes with unvented metal 

roofs is to install rigid insulation boards right on top of the existing roof, then installing 

new waterproof roofing on top of the insulation. This is a more expensive option and it 

should be done in conjunction with blowing insulation into the roof cavity to maximize 

effectiveness. Before selecting this option, the contractor must make sure the attic 

cavity is tightly sealed against air infiltration. A leaky attic will negate much of the 

benefit of added roof insulation.

 Adding roof insulation.

When adding roof-cavity insulation, 

the contractor must take care to 

maintain clearances between the 

insulation and recessed ceiling 

light fixtures and flues to avoid 

overheating; make sure the ceiling 

is strong enough to support the 

weight of the additional insulation; 

and not block ventilation in 

vented attics.

Blowing insulation into the floor cavity Blowing insulation into the roof

 Avoid insulated skirting. 

Since the space under the home 

must be vented, insulated skirting 

generally is not an effective 

strategy to save energy.
34

August 2005 Manufactured Homes: Saving Money by Saving Energy

Homes in colder climates should have a minimum of R-11 in the walls and R-21 in the floor and 

ceiling if it will fit. Each inch of fiberglass-batt insulation provides an insulating value of about 

R-3.2, and every inch of loose-fill fiberglass provides about R-2.5. For example, a wall with 3-1/2" 

fiberglass-batt insulation achieves about R-11.

Figuring out how much insulation there is in your home can be tricky. For walls, you can sometimes 

remove the cover plate from an electrical outlet (turning off power at your circuit breaker first) and 

look into the gap next to the outlet box. For floors, you may be able to remove a floor-mounted 

heating register. For your ceiling, removing a recessed light fixture, electrical cover plate from a 

ceiling-hung light fixture, or bathroom fan cover plate may reveal the insulation. In a hidden location 

such as a closet or cabinet, you can cut a hole into the wall, floor, or ceiling cavity. 

One important limiting factor in being able to add insulation to your home may be the thickness of 

the wall, floor, or roof cavity. If your floor cavity is only 6" deep, you’ll only be able to achieve about 

R-15 with loose-fill insulation.

Measure your existing insulation level

Add insulation to sidewalls 

($$$, PRO)

The walls of older manufactured homes may have significant voids where insulation is 

missing. Adding wall insulation is difficult and expensive, but it can be cost-effective in 

colder climates that have high fuel costs. There are at least four different ways to add 

insulation to walls: blowing insulation through holes drilled in the exterior siding; blowing 

insulation through holes drilled in the interior wall; installing fiberglass batts after removing 

the exterior siding; and stuffing fiberglass batts into walls from below. All of these techniques 

are difficult and expensive. On some homes, several different methods might be combined 

because of variations in the walls’ construction.
35

Manufactured Homes: Saving Money by Saving Energy August 2005

 LIFESTYLE TIPS TO SAVE ENERGY

Here are several common-sense, low-cost or no-cost strategies that you can implement 

today to lower your energy bills.

During the cooling season:

1. Close drapes or shades on the sunny side of the house to reduce solar heat 

through the windows.

2. Set the thermostat to 78°F or higher. When the house is empty, set it to 82°F 

or higher.

3. Turn off the air conditioner when nobody’s home, or when cooling isn’t needed. 

If conditions permit, open windows for ventilation instead of using the air 

conditioner. However, in very humid conditions, opening windows will introduce 

moisture which may force the air conditioner to work harder to remove. Do not 

leave a home sealed and unventilated for long periods of time, especially in humid 

climates, because this promotes mold growth.

4. If you use an air conditioner, leave storm windows and storm doors in place. 

They keep cool air inside when it’s hot out, just as they keep warm air inside during 

winter. However, you may want to remove some of the storm windows so you can 

open the windows for ventilation on days when air conditioning isn’t needed—even 

if you rely primarily on air conditioning.

5. If you experience condensation (moisture build-up) on interior surfaces, raise your 

air conditioning set point temperature and have a professional check your ducts for 

leakage and balanced airflow to all rooms.

During the heating season:

1. Open the drapes or shades on the sunny side of the house during the daytime to 

gather as much solar heat as possible—then close those drapes or shades at night 

to reduce heat loss.

2. Set back the thermostat at night and when the home is unoccupied. Every degree 

the heat is lowered saves you up to 5% on heating costs. (Heat pumps should only 

be set back 5° to prevent excessive use of backup electric heating.) Save energy by 

installing a programmable thermostat that can automatically adjust the temperature 

based on your pre-selected settings. 

When purchasing a programmable thermostat, look for ENERGY STAR qualified 

models, which carry the ENERGY STAR logo on the product or the box. These 

models are among the most energy-efficient units sold.

3. To prevent heated air from going up the chimney, keep the fireplace damper closed 

except when you’re using the fireplace. If the fireplace doesn’t have a damper, the 

fireplace opening can be sealed with a snug-fitting cover.

4. If you see significant condensation on windows, try to increase the ventilation in 

your home.
36

August 2005 Manufactured Homes: Saving Money by Saving Energy

All year long:

1. When the air conditioning or heat is on, keep windows and doors closed.

2. Wash only full loads of laundry in the coolest water practical, and rinse in 

cold water.

3. Clean the clothes dryer lint filter after every load to maximize drying efficiency. 

Dry full loads of clothes, but don’t overload the machine.

4. Run the dishwasher with full loads, and select the air-dry dishwasher cycle.

5. Reduce hot water waste. Don’t leave the water running while brushing your teeth 

or shaving.

6. Turn the water heater off when everyone will be gone longer than a week.

7. Turn off lights, televisions, and stereos when you leave the room. Plug televisions 

and stereos into a power strip that can be switched off to eliminate stand-by power 

consumption. It will take equipment slightly longer to turn on, but will save the 

energy this equipment uses even when it is turned off.

8. Turn bath and kitchen exhaust fans on to exhaust moisture during bathing 

and cooking.

9. Turn off outdoor lighting during the day. (See page 18 for more on 

photo-sensor controls.)

10. Use natural daylight indoors during the daytime by opening the drapes 

or shades.

11. Maintain your refrigerator at an optimal temperature setting: 37° to 40° for 

the refrigerator compartment and 0° to 5° for the freezer.

12. Cover liquids and wrap foods stored in the refrigerator. Uncovered foods 

release moisture and make the refrigerator work harder.

13. Reduce or eliminate the use of high-energy-use appliances, such as a 

second refrigerator.
37

Manufactured Homes: Saving Money by Saving Energy August 2005

Publications

• Your Mobile Home: Energy and Repair Guide for Manufactured Housing, 

by John Krigger, Saturn Resource Management, Helena, MT 

(www.residential-energy.com). This comprehensive and detailed guidebook 

contains many photographs and diagrams to explain repair and upgrade 

procedures. It is geared towards the handy do-it-yourselfer, but is very useful 

for any owner of a manufactured home. Specific items of interest include 

cleaning a water heater tank, making wood-framed storm windows, repairing 

primary windows, and insulating. 

• Consumer Guide to Home Energy Savings, 8th Edition, by Alex Wilson, 

Jennifer Thorne, and John Morrill, American Council for an Energy Efficient 

Economy, 2003 (www.aceee.org). This 247-page guide is written in plain 

English and is full of tips on energy-saving strategies. Of particular interest 

is the detailed information on when and how to select a new furnace, air 

conditioner and water heater.

• DOE Energy Savers Booklets (www.eere.energy.gov/energy_savers). 

This free booklet provides easy, practical solutions for saving energy 

throughout the home—from insulation to appliances and lighting. It is 

available in English and Spanish and can be downloaded from the Web 

site or ordered by calling 1-877-EERE-INF (1-877-337-3463).

• Weatherization Field Guide for Pennsylvania, Pennsylvania Weatherization 

Assistance Center, 2004 (www.pct.edu/wtc). This handbook is used to train 

weatherization contractors working in Pennsylvania. It contains a special 

chapter on manufactured homes and contains a great deal of detail on 

insulating manufactured homes. Free from the Web site.

Web sites 

• Weatherization Assistance Program (www.eere.energy.gov/weatherization).

This web site provides information about the Weatherization Assistance 

Program, which offers energy-saving assistance to low-income families.

• Weatherization Assistance Program Technical Assistance Center 

(www.waptac.org). This web site links to the manufactured home energy 

audit tool (WX Assistant), which provides savings-to-investment ratios for 

many energy efficiency upgrades customized for your home as well as a 

refrigerator replacement analysis tool.

• HUD Energy Efficient Rehab Advisor (www.rehabadvisor.pathnet.org/index.asp). 

This Web site recommends energy efficiency measures for many types of 

rehab projects. It estimates costs, energy savings and additional benefits. 

Users should keep in mind that it is based on site–built construction, not 

manufactured homes.

• EERE Energy Savers (www.eere.energy.gov/consumerinfo). This U.S. 

Department of Energy Web site is a gateway to consumer information 

on energy efficiency and renewable energy.

• Home Energy Saver (hes.lbl.gov). This web site provides a do-it-yourself, 

Web-based home energy auditing tool. 

FOR MORE INFORMATION
38

August 2005 Manufactured Homes: Saving Money by Saving Energy

• ENERGY STAR (www.energystar.gov). This web site will help you 

research a wide variety of ENERGY STAR qualified products and also 

find remodeling contractors.

• Partnerships for Home Energy Efficiency (www.energysavers.gov). Partnerships for 

Home Energy Efficiency is a joint effort of the U.S. Department of Energy, the U.S. 

Environmental Protection Agency, and the U.S. Department of Housing and Urban 

Development focusing on energy saving solutions for homeowners, contractors & 

builders, building managers, realtors, and state agencies.

• California Consumer Energy Center Consumer Energy Tips 

(www.consumerenergycenter.org). This web site contains numerous 

energy-savings tips and recommendations.

• Home Energy Magazine, Berkeley, CA (www.homeenergy.org). The Web site for this 

magazine contains many back issues in a searchable database. These articles 

provide practical advice on specific topics.

• Nordyne (www.nordyne.com). Contact Nordyne for copies of operating and service 

manuals for Intertherm and Miller heating and cooling equipment. The Web site 

also contains tips for selecting a heating and air conditioning contractor and 

recommendations for what should be included in an annual maintenance agreement.

• York International (www.york.com). Contact York for copies of operating 

and service manuals for York heating and cooling equipment.

• Coleman (www.colemanac.com). Contact Coleman for copies of operating 

and service manuals for Coleman heating and cooling equipment.
U.S. Department of Housing and Urban 

Development

HUD USER

P.O. Box 23268

Washington, DC 20026-3268

Official Business

Penalty for Private Use $300

FIRST-CLASS MAIL

POSTAGE & FEES PAID

HUD 

Permit No. G–795

August 2005