Bringing 

Conservation 

From the 

Countryside to 

Your Backyard

A cooperative project of

USDA Natural Resources Conservation Service

National Association of Conservation Districts

Wildlife Habitat Council

Backyard Conservation
INTRODUCTION

Farmers and ranchers, and many

homeowners, are making progress in

natural resource protection.You can

join their conservation tradition, right in your

own backyard.

There are nearly 2 billion acres of land in the

United States. About 70 percent of that land

is privately owned, and care of that land is in

the hands of those who live and work on it.

Most of that land, 1.4 billion acres, is managed by farmers and ranchers. More than 92

million acres of land—an area the size of

California—is privately developed and much

of it is tended by homeowners.

Farmers and ranchers use conservation plans

to help them apply practices that meet their

production objectives and protect soil, water,

air, plant, and animal resources.You may want

to develop a plan for your own backyard to

help you apply conservation measures that fit

your needs. Or maybe, for now, you’d like to

try just a few of the activities in this book.

We hope you’ll enjoy these activities that

bring beauty and diversity to your yard—

whether your “yard” is measured in acres,

feet, or flower pots.We know you’ll feel good

about improving the environment and joining

the conservation tradition of America’s farmers and ranchers.

From the countryside to your backyard

A tradition of caring for our natural resources

2

Jim Archambeault

Jim Archambeault

Richard Day, Daybreak Imagery
PREVIOUS

PAGE

(top) Contour stripcropping; (bottom right) Northern cardinal,

female; (bottom left) Water and

plants to attract butterflies; (top

left) Water lily. THIS PAGE

(top) Constructed wetland with

landscaping; (right) Purple

prairie coneflowers; (bottom left)

Finished compost; (center left)

Atala hairstreak butterfly.

3

Lynn Betts, USDA

Lynn Betts, USDA

Lynn Betts, USDA

Lynn Betts, USDA

Alana Edwards
CONTENTS

4

Tree planting

Page 6

Wildlife habitat

Page 8

Backyard pond

Page 14

Terracing

Page 22

Water 

conservation

Page 23

Nutrient 

management

Page 21

I

n this publication,

you’ll see practices

used to conserve and

improve natural

resources on agricultural

land across the country.

You’ll see how you can

use similar practices in

your own backyard to

help improve the environment, help wildlife,

and in many cases, make

the area more attractive

and enjoyable.

Most backyard conservation practices are easy to

put in place.Tips and

highlights are given here,

but for more information,

or for help in developing

your backyard plan, you

may want to consult a

local landscaper, garden

club, or any of the organizations listed in the back

of this book.

What’s in this book

This book

highlights 10

conservation

activities,

adapted

from farms

and ranches,

that can be

used in your

backyard. 

PLUS...

“Quick Tips”

1 2 3

7 8 9 Richard Day, Daybreak Imagery
Backyard 

wetland

Page 16

Mulching

Page 20

Pest

management

Page 24

Composting

Page 18

Conservation efforts

by many farmers and

ranchers help keep

the air clean; maintain

good-quality water for

drinking, recreation,

and fish and wildlife;

provide homes for

wildlife; ensure

healthy soil; and sustain a diversity of

plants. These benefits

help people, wildlife,

and the environment.

Numerous Federal

and State conservation programs are

aimed at natural

resource protection

and sustainability.

Many provide educational, technical, and

financial assistance to

help farmers consider

and implement conservation practices.

On the farm

5

EVERYBODY

HAS A

BACKYARD

Page 26

4 6

10

5

PREVIOUS PAGE

(top left) Mockingbird eating

chokecherry; (top center)

Backyard pond and waterloving plants.

THIS PAGE

(right) Contour stripcropping.

Jim Archambeault

Tim McCabe, USDA
TREE PLANTING

Trees add beauty 

and so much more.

In your backyard

Choosing a tree

Choose a tree that will provide enjoyment for you

and that fits your landscape.

Take advantage of the abundant references on

gardening in local

libraries, at universities,

arboretums, and parks where

trees are identified, and from

native plant and gardening

clubs, and nurseries. Before

you buy, you can find out if a

tree is appropriate for

your area, how big it will

get, how long it will live, its

leaf color in the fall, any nuts

or fruit it may bear, and the

proper planting instructions

and care for that species.

Make a conscious effort to

select trees native to

your area. They will live

longer, be more tolerant of

local weather and soil conditions, enhance natural biodiversity in your neighborhood, and be more beneficial

to wildlife than non-native

trees. Avoid exotic trees that

can invade other areas,

crowd out native plants, and

harm natural ecosystems.

Plant a variety of tree

species. For wildlife, choose

trees and shrubs that bloom

and bear fruit or nuts at different times of the year.

Trees in your backyard can be home to many different types of

wildlife.Trees also can reduce your heating and cooling costs,

help clean the air, add beauty and color, provide shelter from

the wind and the sun, and add value to your home.

6

1

Lynn Betts, USDA

Jim Archambeault
■ Dig a hole twice as wide

as, and slightly shallower

than, the root ball. Roughen

the sides and bottom of the

hole with a pick or shovel

so that roots can penetrate

the soil.

■ With a potted tree, gently

remove the tree from the

container. Lay the tree on its

side with the container end

near the planting hole. Hit

the bottom and sides of the

container until the root ball

is loosened.With trees

wrapped in plastic or burlap,

remove the string or wire

that holds the wrapping to

the root crown. Remove the

wrapping if it is plastic;

burlap may be left in place.

■ Gently separate circling

roots on the root ball.

Shorten exceptionally 

long roots, and guide the

shortened roots downward

and outward. Root tips die

quickly when exposed 

to light and air, so don’t

waste time.

■ Place the root ball in the

hole. Leave the top of the

root ball (where the roots

end and the trunk begins)

1/2 to 1 inch above the

surrounding soil, making sure

not to cover it unless roots

are exposed. As you add soil

to fill in around the tree,

lightly tamp the soil to

collapse air pockets, or add

water to help settle the soil.

■ Form a temporary water

basin around the base of the

tree to encourage water

penetration, and water

thoroughly after planting.

A tree with a dry root ball

cannot absorb water; if the

root ball is extremely dry,

allow water to trickle into

the soil by placing the hose

at the trunk of the tree.

■ Mulch around the tree.

Be sure to carefully follow the planting instructions that come

with your tree. If specific instructions are not available, follow

these tips: 

Planting a tree

A properly planted and maintained tree will grow much faster

and live much longer than one that is incorrectly planted. Trees

can be planted almost any time of the year as long as the soil is

not frozen. However, early fall is the optimum time to

plant trees.The roots grow some during the first fall and winter

and when spring arrives the tree is ready to grow. Your second

choice for planting is late winter or early spring. Hot summer

weather is hard on newly planted trees and planting in frozen

soil during the winter is difficult and tough on tree roots.

Windbreaks and tree plantings slow the wind and provide shelter and food for wildlife.

Trees can shelter livestock and crops; they are used as barriers to slow winds that

blow across large cropped fields and through farmsteads. An established windbreak

slows wind on its downwind side for a distance of 10 times the height of the trees.

Farmstead and field windbreaks and tree plantings are key components of a conservation system. They also improve air quality by capturing dust. Planting a mix of tree

species helps prevent total losses to disease and severe weather; it also provides

food, nesting areas, and cover for a variety of wildlife.

7

On the farm

Early maintenance

For the first year or two,especially after a week or so of

especially hot or dry weather,

watch your trees

closely for signs of

moisture stress.If you

see leaf wilting or hard,caked

soil,water the trees

well and slowly enough so

the water soaks in rather than

runs off. This will encourage deep root growth.

Keep the area under the trees

mulched and free of other

plants.Until the trees are

deeply rooted,grasses and

other plants may take up

moisture before the trees can

get their share.

PREVIOUS PAGE

(top) Farmstead windbreak;

(bottom left) A restful, soothing

place among the trees; (top

left) Enjoying the backyard.

THIS PAGE

(top left) Chipping sparrow

nest; (top right) Twine will be

removed before planting;

(bottom left) Field windbreak.

Lynn Betts, USDA

Richard Day, Daybreak Imagery

Lynn Betts, USDA

Lynn Betts, USDA
WILDLIFE HABITAT

8

Trees, shrubs, and

other plants can

provide homes and

food for wildlife.

Attracting birds to

your yard

These are examples of

plants that you can grow to

attract birds and other

species. Be sure to check

with your nursery on what

grows best in your area.

Shrubs for birds

Common juniper

Highbush blueberry

Hollies

Pyracantha

Red-osier dogwood

Serviceberry

Spicebush

Sumacs

Viburnums

Wax myrtle

Trees for birds and

other wildlife

American beech

American holly

Apple

Balsam fir

Black cherry

Black gum

Cottonwood

Crabapple

Flowering dogwood

Hawthorns

Hickories

Live oak

Oaks

Red mullberry

Vines for birds

American bittersweet

Native honeysuckle

Strawberry

Trumpet creeper

Virginia creeper

Wild grape

Your backyard can be home for many different types

of birds, butterflies, beneficial insects, bats, and other

wildlife.Trees, shrubs, and other plants provide both

food and shelter for wildlife.The types of plants you use for

food and cover will help determine the wildlife species

attracted to your backyard. Consider native plant

species first. Plant a variety of species. Select plants

that flower and bear fruit at different times of 

the year. Shrubs that produce berries can provide food

throughout the year. Trees with nuts and fruit can also

provide seasonal foods. Flowers and fruits of some plants

attract hummingbirds and butterflies to your backyard.You

also can construct bird houses and other shelter and put

out commercial bird foods.

In your backyard

2

Richard Day, Daybreak Imagery

Lynn Betts, USDA
9

Flowers for birds

Aster

Coneflower

Coreopsis

Sunflower

Nectar plants for 

hummingbirds

Hummingbirds are typically

attracted to red and yellow

tubular flowers, although

they frequently visit others

as well.

Bee balm

Columbine 

Delphinium

Fuchsia

Honeysuckle

Jewel weed

Lobelia

Penstemon

Phlox

Salvia

Trumpet creeper

Additional food and

shelter for birds

You can provide additional

food and shelter for birds

and other wildlife by building or purchasing feeders

and houses and by setting

out certain foods.Watching

birds feeding can be an

enjoyable pastime. Find out

which birds spend the

winter in or migrate

through your area, and

provide food for them.

Check to see which birds

are most common and

which are rare or in special

need of food and shelter.

Many species of birds can be

attracted by a variety of

feed in different styles of

feeders. Be sure to put feeders out of reach of

predators.

Common food 

for birds

Hummingbird:

Sugar water (1 part sugar to

4 parts water) in a feeder.

Every 3-4 days, wash feeder

with soap and water, rinse

thoroughly, and add new

sugar water.

Oriole:

Citrus fruit on a nail 

Titmouse, nuthatch, chickadee, and many others:

Black oil sunflower seeds

Goldfinch, pine siskin:

Thistle seed

Woodpecker, wren:

Plain suet in a suet feeder

NOTE: Use of feeders could

attract some wildlife species

that you may not want to

feed, such as starlings, crows,

and squirrels.Type and

placement of feeders and the

type of food can help deter

unwanted species.

Bird houses

Choose a location that birds will find appealing

and secure, usually away from the bustle of human

activity. Make or buy a bird house specifically

designed for the species of bird you want to attract.The

size of the hole is most critical to prevent the eggs and young

from being destroyed by larger birds; always check a list of

appropriate hole sizes.

PREVIOUS PAGE

(top) Northern

cardinal, male;

(bottom right)

Supplemental food

for birds;

(bottom left)

Interspersed native

plants.

THIS PAGE

(top right) Anna’s

hummingbird;

(bottom right)

Eastern bluebird,

Richard Day, Daybreak Imagery

male, at nest box.

Virgil Ketner

Susan Day, Daybreak Imagery
WILDLIFE HABITAT

10

Dead, dying, and hollow trees and logs

Many people are not aware of the value of dead, dying, and hollow trees, as well as logs

on the ground, for wildlife. Dead trees provide homes to over 400 species of birds,

mammals, and amphibians. Fish, plants, and fungi also benefit from dead and dying

trees. Consider leaving standing dead and dying trees in your yard unless they pose a human

safety or property hazard, and use downed woody materials in gardens and landscaping.

Attracting butterflies to your yard

Colorful butterflies add beauty and interest to your backyard.There are hundreds of different

species of butterflies in North America. Butterflies require food in liquid form, such as nectar

produced by plants.They get some of it from flowers and from juices of extra-ripe fruits.The

types of flowering plants you grow will determine the kinds of butterflies you will attract

to your backyard. Observe species nearby, and use plants that attract them. Provide nectarrich flowers for adult butterflies and foliage for caterpillars. Do not use insecticides near

plants for butterflies.

Nectar plants for 

butterflies

Aster

Azalea

Butterfly bush

Butterfly weed and

other milkweeds

Coneflower

Lantana

Lupine

Milkweed

Phlox

Zinnia

Plants for caterpillars

Caterpillars, the larval stage

of butterflies, need nourishment as well. Native

plants are the choice of

many species. Plants for

caterpillars include:

Aspen

Birch

Butterfly weed and

other milkweeds

Dill

Hollyhock

Senna

Sorrel

Spicebrush

Willow

Attracting bees to

your yard

In the United States, there

are nearly 5,000 different

species of native bees—

almost all of them solitary,

friendly bees that nest in

holes in the ground or burrows in twigs and dead tree

limbs.These bees don’t have

hives to protect so they are

not aggressive and rarely

sting. Bumblebees, carpenter

bees, sweat bees, leafcutter

bees, digger bees, and others

pollinate many different kinds of plants, and

play a critical role in healthy

wild plant communities and

gardens. Some 30 percent of

our diet is the direct result

of a pollinating visit by a

bee to a flowering fruit tree

Stephen L. Buchmann

Stephen L. Buchmann
Some corporate lands

are set aside and

managed just for wildlife

habitat. The Wildlife

Habitat Council has

implemented wildlife

enhancement programs

on more than 550,000

acres in the United States

and eight other countries.

Habitat projects on

corporate lands are

corporate-driven

cooperative

efforts among

management,

employees, the

community, local

conservation

groups, and

local, State, and

Federal

agencies.

11

or vegetable plant. Providing

bee habitat in your yard can

increase the quality and

quantity of your fruit and

vegetable harvests.

Nectar plants for bees

Bees are attracted to most

flowering plants, and are

especially fond of blue and

yellow flowers.Try planting

your garden so you have

different species

blooming in the spring,

summer, and fall. Plants

for bees include:

Bee balm

Black-eyed Susan

Cardinal flower

Clover and other legumes

Cosmos

Crape myrtle

Goldenrods

Lupine

Mallows

Milkweeds

Mints

Sunflowers

Bee houses

A good use for

scrap lumber (at

least 3-5 inches

thick) is to drill holes (from

1/8-inch to 5/16-inch in diameter) about 90 percent of the

way into the thick wooden

block. Space the holes about

1/2-inch to 3/4-inch apart.

The 5/16-inch holes work

best as homes for orchard

bees, which are excellent pollinators of fruit trees. Hang

your bee blocks under the

eaves of your house or garden shed, protected from

direct sun and rain.

Attracting bats to

your yard

Bats can be beneficial and

interesting mammalian

species in your

neighborhood. Bats are

among the most important

consumers of night-flying

insects, including

mosquitoes, moths, and

beetles. For example, a

On corporate lands

PREVIOUS PAGE

(top) Monarch butterfly on

coneflower; (bottom right)

Digger bee; (left) Giant

swallowtail after emerging

from chrysalis.

THIS PAGE

(top right) Canada goose;

(bottom) Egret over wetland;

(left) Pallid bat with insect.

Lynn Betts, USDA

Bill Welker, USDA

Lynn Betts, USDA

Merlin D. Tuttle, Bat ConservationInternational
WILDLIFE HABITAT

12

single little brown bat can

catch more than 600

mosquitoes in an hour.

Watching bats fly around

light posts catching bugs

can be an interesting

nighttime activity.

To help attract bats and provide them with much-needed roosting habitat, you may

want to consider putting a

bat house in your yard.The

houses should be placed on

poles or buildings at

least 15 feet high in a

spot that receives 6 or more

hours of sun per day. Tree

trunks are usually too shady

for bat boxes. Some species,

such as red bats and hoary

bats, will use foliage of

shrubs and trees, while others, such as evening and

Indiana bats, will roost under

loose bark or in cavities.

As with all wildlife, bats

should be watched but

not handled or chased.

Bats are generally shy of

humans, and rarely “attack”

or fly after a person, but if

caught or picked up from

the ground, a bat may bite

in self-defense. Bats should

not be handled.

Water for wildlife

Clean, fresh water is as important to birds, bats, and other

wildlife as it is for people.Water in a saucer, bird bath,

or backyard pond gives wildlife the water they need.

Remember to change the water every few days to keep it

fresh. In hot weather, it may be necessary to refill the container every day.

Logs, rocks, and other in-water structures provide drinking

and basking habitat for turtles, butterflies, and songbirds.

Stones with depressions that collect water will help attract

butterflies.

Hint

Butterflies, birds, bees, and all wildlife are very vulnerable to

many pesticides and other chemicals. Probably the best single

thing a gardener can do for wildlife is to minimize chemical use. If you use chemicals, always follow label

instructions.

Lynn Betts, USDA

Jesse Grantham
13

Farmers are installing grass,

tree, and shrub plantings, ponds,

and other wildlife habitat at

record rates. Buffer strips along

waterways, grass areas, and

native prairie plantings are some

of the practices used on farms.

Nesting structures such as bird

and bat houses are sometimes

provided for wildlife. Some farmers plant or leave food plots of

corn, millet, or other grains

specifically for wildlife. 

Pheasants, grouse, quail, prairie

chickens, mourning doves, and

songbirds, as well as leopard

frogs, diamond-back terrapin,

red bats, and other wildlife,

benefit from habitat that farmers

and ranchers establish on their

land. Farmers appreciate and

enjoy wildlife supported by good

habitat and also benefit from

pollination and pest control by

beneficial insects.

On the farm

PREVIOUS PAGE

(top) Backyard pond with lily pads and frogs;

(bottom) Cleaning birdbath; (left) Thistle feeder

with pine siskin and American goldfinches.

THIS PAGE

(top right) Rose-breasted grosbeak, male;

(bottom right) Streamside buffer of trees and

other plants; (bottom left) Red-eared and

painted turtles; (top left) Eastern bluebirds.

Ron Nichols, USDA

Richard Day, Daybreak Imagery

Richard Day, Daybreak Imagery

Lynn Betts, USDA

Lynn Betts, USDA
BACKYARD POND

14

A backyard pond will likely

become the focal point for all

your backyard conservation.

Where to put a backyard pond

Consider locating your backyard pond in view of a deck or

patio where everyone can enjoy it. Have it blend in with its natural surroundings. Plan to landscape around the pond

to provide habitat for frogs and birds that need land and water.

Be sure electrical service is available for a pump, filter system to

keep water fresh, or for lighting.There will be less maintenance

and cleanup and most aquatic plants will grow better if your

pond is not under trees.

When to install a backyard pond

You can put in a backyard pond any time the ground isn’t

frozen or overly wet. Plan on taking at least a weekend to install

and landscape.

Backyard pond supplies

Most sites will require lining with an impervious material to

hold a constant water level. A flexible liner made of sheets

of strong plastic is generally the easiest way to line your pond.

Flexible liners may make it easier for the pond to fit into the

natural surroundings of your yard. Pre-formed rigid liners also

are available, but generally are more expensive and more

difficult to install. A wooden half barrel with a liner makes a

nice small, above-ground pond.You’ll also need a pump and

filter to maintain clean water and healthy fish.You can add

plants, landscaping, heaters, or special effects like fountains and

waterfalls.

Size and depth

Common regrets of backyard pond owners are that the pond

was too small or too shallow. Minimum depth for fish is 18

inches; a deep end of 2 or 3 feet is recommended. Size and

shape of ponds with rigid liners are dictated by the liners.A

pond with a flexible liner may be any shape or size.

Establishing plants

Free-floating plants, such as duckweed, are an integral

part of keeping the water in your pond clear. Use native plants

that are recommended for your area.

In your backyard

Backyard ponds are for birds, butterflies, frogs, fish, and

you and your family. These ponds are typically small,

sometimes no larger than 3 to 4 feet in diameter.

Water is very effective in drawing wildlife to your backyard. It is also a natural, relaxing, and scenic addition that can

provide interest and enjoyment.

3

Jim Archambeault
15

Also use submerged pots of water lilies,

iris, spikerush, arrow-arum, duck potato,

marsh marigold, and other native wetland

plants. Natives are hardy, and typically

survive over winter in the backyard pond,

unlike most non-native, tropical species.

Plants should cover 50 to 70 percent of the

water surface. Set the plants 1 to 2 inches

under water; the pots may need to be supported by submerged rocks or bricks. If you

are using native plants, there is usually no

need to fertilize them. For some exotic

water lilies, limited fertilizing—once yearly—

may be required. Check with your nursery

on care of plants and how deep to place

potted plants. Be aware that overfertilizing

may cause unwanted algae blooms which

can rob the water of oxygen.

Add fish and scavengers

Consider stocking your backyard pond with

fish.They are fun to watch, and help keep

the pond free of unwanted insects.You’ll

also need scavengers, such as aquatic snails

and tadpoles, to help control algae. In cold

climates, a heater may be necessary for fish

to survive the winter. Be aware that heaters

can use large amounts of electricity.

Hint

Fill a small area with sand or gravel to create a shallow area where bees and butterflies can drink.

Safety

Locate the backyard pond where it is unlikely that unattended children may be attracted

to it. Check local safety ordinances to determine if a fence is required for the specific

depth and size of your pond. Check local

building ordinances for depth and safety

restrictions and permits. Equip outdoor outlets with a ground-fault circuit interrupter.

More help

Your local nursery, landscaper, or other supplier can give you more information on the

step-by-step process of building a backyard

pond, selecting and establishing suitable

plants in and around it, and landscaping.

A properly located

and maintained farm

pond can help stop

gully erosion and

improve water quality.

Ponds provide water

for livestock,

waterfowl, and fish;

store water for

emergencies; and

add beauty to the

landscape.

Wildlife use ponds for

water and habitat. As

one Iowa farmer says

about his pond, “I

was always taught

that one generation

does for the next,

and we thought

leaving the land and

water in better

condition would be

something good to

leave to our children

and grandchildren.”

On the farm

PREVIOUS PAGE

Recirculating water in backyard

pond.

THIS PAGE

(top) Landscaped backyard pond;

(right) Fishing in farm pond; (left)

Your “pond” may be as simple as a

birdbath.

Jim Archambeault

Lynn Betts, USDA

Tim McCabe, USDA
BACKYARD WETLAND

16

Wetlands filter excess nutrients,

chemicals, and sediment, and

provide habitat for a host of

interesting creatures.

Many yards can support a backyard wetland that

benefits you and your community. Letting runoff

from your roof, parking area, and lot slowly filter

through a mini-wetland helps prevent pollution of neighboring creeks and may help prevent flooding.

In your backyard

Where to put a wetland

Low areas that remain wet or damp much of the year are the

easiest places to establish wetlands. Any depression that

collects rainwater or runoff from downspouts, or serves

as the path of drainwater leaving your yard, is an excellent

spot to plant wetland plants.You’ll create a backyard

wetland area that will be very low maintenance. There

will be no more “bogged down” lawn mowers because no

mowing will be needed! The area will attract wildlife and filter

the water draining off your property. If you do not have an

appropriate natural site, you can create a wetland the same

way you would a backyard pond. Do not put excess fertilizer

or pesticides on your lawn or other areas feeding your 

wetland.

How to build a wetland

Partially blocking an existing drainage way or digging a shallow basin may be all you need to do if you have clay soil that

naturally holds water. In better drained soil or where you want

your wetland to stay wet most of the time, you can dig a shallow depression and bury a plastic liner as you would to create

a backyard pond. How long the area stays flooded or wet during the growing season is key to the types of plants to use. If

runoff will not naturally keep the area wet enough, you will

need to have a supply of water available for occasional use.

4

Gene Whitaker
17

Important! Because of the variety of potential conditions

that you can create, and the potential side-effects of blocking

drainage ways, you should always consult an expert before

starting a wetland project.

What to plant

A wide variety of attractive plants can grow in wet areas.

Cattails and many varieties of reeds thrive in the open sun

and are easy to care for. Many species are not harmed by long

dry periods during the summer. Cardinal flowers, sweet flag,

and pickerel weed thrive in wet areas. Trees and shrubs like

black gum, water oak, red-osier dogwood, button bush, and

sweet pepper bush add texture, color, and beauty to

any landscape, and are adapted to poorly drained soil. A variety of attractive ferns, skunk cabbage, and Jack-in-the-pulpit

grow well in wooded wetlands that are damp and shaded. If

you create bog conditions of permanently damp organic soil,

you can grow native orchids,Venus flytrap, and sundew.

Wildlife in your wetland

Many birds and small animals will quickly start using your

wetland. Usually frogs, toads, salamanders, and aquatic insects

will find your wetland during the first spring. A deep, permanent pool in the wetland can support native frogs, toads, and

possibly fish that will eat mosquito larva and other insects.

Most frogs and toads need spring pools in which to breed;

their tadpoles need shallow water for several weeks while

they mature.Wetlands that dry out in the summer can support a variety of plants and wildlife and will not produce

mosquitoes.

Wetlands filter excess nutrients, chemicals, and sediment from runoff,

keep ground water pure, hold back flood waters, provide habitat for

migratory birds and local wildlife, and add beauty to the landscape.

Across the country, many farmers are restoring wet areas in cropland

and pasture to fully functioning wetlands that benefit their land and

the environment.

On the farm

PREVIOUS PAGE

Wetland plants in low area

between buildings.

THIS PAGE

(top) Colorful mix of wetland

plants; (right) Goldfinch on

coneflower;

(bottom) Restored prairie

pothole wetland.

Lynn Betts, USDA

Richard Day, Daybreak Imagery Tim McCabe, USDA
COMPOSTING

18

All organic matter eventually decomposes.

Composting speeds the process by providing an

ideal environment for bacteria and other decomposing micro-organisms. The final product, humus or compost,

looks and feels like fertile garden soil. This dark,

crumbly, earthy-smelling stuff works wonders on all kinds of

soil and provides vital nutrients to help plants grow and look

better.

Decomposing micro-organisms need four key elements to

thrive: nitrogen, carbon, moisture, and oxygen. For best results,

mix materials high in nitrogen (such as clover and fresh

grass clippings) and those high in carbon (such as dried

leaves and twigs). If there is not a good supply of nitrogen-rich

material, a handful of general lawn fertilizer will help the nitrogen-carbon ratio. Moisture is provided by rain, but you may

need to water or cover the pile to keep it damp. Be

careful not to saturate the pile. Oxygen is supplied by turning

or mixing the pile. More turning yields faster decomposition.

Composting turns

household wastes into

valuable fertilizer.

In your backyard

Getting started

Many materials can be added to a compost pile, including

leaves, grass clippings, straw, woody brush, vegetable and fruit

scraps, coffee grounds, livestock manure, sawdust, and shredded

paper. Avoid using diseased plants, meat scraps that may attract

animals, and dog or cat manure which can carry disease.

Composting can be as simple or as involved as you would

like, and depends on how much yard waste you have, how

fast you want results, and the effort you’re willing to invest.

Cold composting 

With cold composting, you can just pile grass clippings and dry leaves on the ground or in a bin.This

method requires no maintenance, but you’ll have to

wait several months to a year for the pile to decompose. Cold

composting works well if you’re short on time or have little

yard waste. Keep weeds and diseased plants out of the mix.

Add yard waste as it accumulates.

5

Lynn Betts, USDA
19

On the farm

Like composting, waste

management on the farm turns

a potential waste into a

resource that saves money and

helps the environment.

Producers use livestock manure

to fertilize crops. When manure

is properly handled, it can be

safely applied to the land

without the risk of polluting

water.

Composting is also practiced in

some poultry operations. The

compost is used as fertilizer on

the farms and for lawns and

gardens.

Hot composting

Hot composting requires more work, but with a few minutes

a day and the right ingredients you can have finished compost

in a few weeks. Hot piles must be built all at once in a 

4- to 5-foot cube and turned regularly. As decomposition

occurs, the pile will shrink. A 3-foot cube is needed to maintain necessary heat. Hot piles can reach 110 to 160 degrees

Farenheit, killing most weed seeds and plant diseases.

■ On a level site, lay down bricks or prunings to promote air

circulation.

■ Spread several inches of the high-carbon material, then mix

high-carbon and high-nitrogen material together. Water

periodically.

■ Punch holes in the sides of the pile for aeration.

■ The pile will heat up and then begin to cool. Start turning

when the pile’s temperature begins to drop.

Move materials from the center to the outside and vice versa.

Turn every day or two and you should get compost in less

than 4 weeks.Turning every other week will give compost in

1 to 3 months. Finished compost will smell sweet and be cool

and crumbly to the touch.

PREVIOUS PAGE

Nutrient-rich compost

THIS PAGE

(top) American cranberrybush Viburnum; (top right)

Compost bin made of fencing wire; (bottom right)

Wooden compost bins; (bottom) Manure storage

tank.

Richard Day, Daybreak Imagery

Christi Carter from Grant Heilman

Christi Carter from Grant Heilman

Lynn Betts, USDA
MULCHING

20

Mulching 

cools, protects,

and enriches

the soil.

Leaving the previous

year’s crop stubble

on the soil surface is

called conservation

tillage. This practice

helps keep wind

from blowing soil particles and helps stop rain from

washing soil away. Also, research is showing that

leaving crop residues helps hold carbon in the soil

and aids in reducing greenhouse gases. This

practice is often used in combination with other

conservation measures such as wind strips or

contour farming.

On the farm

Mulching involves placing a layer of organic material around plants.As mulch decomposes, it adds

organic matter to the soil.This provides important

nutrients for plants and an ideal environment for earthworms

and other organisms that help enrich the soil.

Mulching can recycle yard wastes and improve your soil.

Mulch protects soil from erosion, prevents weed

growth, conserves soil moisture, stabilizes soil temperature,

reduces compaction, and keeps clean and dry any fruit or 

vegetable that touches the ground.

Mulch materials

The best place to look for mulch materials is in your own

yard. Grass clippings and leaves work well for

mulching if they are dry and weed free. Avoid adding clippings to your vegetable garden from lawns that have been

treated with weed killer within the last two mowings. If you

live near farming areas, you may be able to get old hay from a

farmer or feed store.

Compost makes an excellent organic mulch material. It adds

nutrients to the soil and has a natural appearance.Wood chips

and bark work well around trees and shrubs and make attractive walkways through gardens.

Applying mulch

Apply mulch when plants are established and soil

is warm. First, water your garden well.Then place a layer of

mulch around the plants.Thickness of the mulch layer varies

for each material:

Dry grass clippings 2 inches

Shredded hardwood mulch,

straw, or wood chips 2 to 4 inches

Compost 3 to 4 inches

Dry leaves 6 inches

You will help insulate the root zone and lower evaporation

rates if you liberally apply mulch. Be careful not to smother

the plants. As the mulch breaks down, add more material to

the top throughout the growing season. After harvest, work

the mulch into the soil to integrate the organic matter, or

leave it on the surface to decay naturally and be carried

into the soil by earthworms.

In your backyard

6

June Davidek, USDA

Gene Alexander, USDA
On the farm

Agricultural producers

sample soils for nutrient needs. As technology becomes

available and affordable, more producers

are varying fertilizer

rates within each

field, depending on

soil test results. This

precision farming

method places the

correct amount of

fertilizer where it is

needed. Applying only

those nutrients plants

can use improves the

farm economically

and environmentally.

NUTRIENT MANAGEMENT

21

Apply only those

nutrients the

plants can use.

Nutrients are essential for good plant growth, but

overapplying nutrients is not good for plants or for

the environment. Excess nutrients leach through

the soil and end up in ground water, or run off into storm

sewers and end up choking a lake or stream.

The three primary plant nutrients are nitrogen,

phosphorus, and potassium. Generally, nitrogen

promotes top growth, phosphorus helps

develop stronger roots and more flower and

fruit production, and potassium builds durability

and disease resistance.

Remember to consider native plants or others with low

fertilizer needs.

Soil test is key

The key to good nutrient management on the farm and in your

backyard is a reliable soil test.Without a soil test,you could be

applying too much, too little, or the wrong nutrients.You’ll want

a separate soil test for your lawn and for your garden.

Commercial soil test kits are available at nurseries and lawn and

garden suppliers. Ask for information on how to take your soil

samples. Apply only the nutrients needed according to

the soil test, and at the right time. Never exceed the recommended rate.

Fertilizing lawns

■ Use slow-release nitrogen fertilizers.

■ Mow often, and leave grass clippings on the lawn for fertilizer.

■ Be careful not to spread fertilizer on sidewalks and driveways.

■ Be sure to calibrate your spreader correctly.

Fertilizing gardens

■ Use compost to enhance or replace fertilizers.

■ Choose a level site, or terrace the garden, to avoid runoff

and erosion.

■ Place fertilizer near plants rather than broadcast it over the

entire garden.

■ Add organic matter to the soil by using manures and organic

fertilizers at a conservative rate.

In your backyard

7

PREVIOUS PAGE

(top) Applying shredded

mulch; (bottom) Soybeans

growing through corn

residue.

THIS PAGE

(top right) Using soil test

kit in yard; (bottom)

Testing soil on the farm;

(top left) Curbside runoff

drains to lake.

Lynn Betts, USDA

Amy Janssen Smith, USDA

Lynn Betts, USDA
TERRACING

22

Terracing

makes flower

and vegetable

gardening

possible on

steep slopes.

Terraces can break your backyard into several minigardens. On steep slopes, terracing can make planting

a garden feasible. Terraces prevent erosion by

shortening the long slope into a series of shorter, more level

steps.This allows heavy rains to soak in rather than run

off and cause soil erosion.

Materials for terraces

Building terraces is like building a staircase.The material you

use to make the face of the stair may be treated lumber—such

as railroad ties, poles, or posts—or bricks, rocks, concrete

blocks, or similar materials.

Height of walls

The steepness of the slope often dictates wall height. Make

the terraces in your yard high enough so the land area

between them is fairly level. Be sure the terrace material is

strong enough and anchored well enough to stay in

place through freezing and thawing, rainstorms, and so forth.

Large projects, such as retaining walls, may require a professional design and specialized assistance and equipment. Be

sure to check local building codes regarding the installation of high walls, and work safely.

Erosion control is a consideration

Heavy rains can cause erosion between terraces, and create

small gullies if water concentrates as it goes over a terrace. To

help prevent erosion, add mulch or other good

ground cover on land between terraces.

In your backyard

Terraces catch runoff

water, let the water

soak into the ground,

and deliver the excess

safely to the bottom of

a hillside—much like

eavespouts on a

house. The earthen

ridges built around a

hillside on the contour

cut a long slope into

shorter slopes,

preventing water from

building to a highly

erosive force.

Some terraces are

seeded to grass, which

provides erosion

control and a nesting

area for birds. Terraces

are often used in

combination with other

conservation practices

to provide more

complete soil

protection.

On the farm

8

Ron Nichols, USDA

Gene Alexander, USDA
WATER CONSERVATION

23

I

f you rely on watering to make your lawn grow and your

garden productive, consider a more efficient system.

There are several ways to improve the use of water.

Use water again

When it rains, if no water recycling system has been planned,

the water that runs off your house keeps on going to the

storm sewer. By saving that water, and reusing it on your garden or lawn later, you save energy and water.

A simple recycling system directs water from eavespouts to a

storage barrel.You fill a bucket with water from the storage

barrel and carry the water to your garden.This is a simple and

effective system. However, you may want a more elaborate

method of capturing and distributing rain water.

Watering to save energy

Whenever practical, water in the early morning.

In arid climates, it’s okay to water in the evenings and

at night.You’ll lose less water to evaporation than if

you watered in the middle of the day, and the plants are less

stressed and can take up the water more efficiently.

Mulch or fiber cloth preserves soil moisture.You can find supplies and information at a nursery or hardware store.

Consider planting native species.They usually use little or no

water beyond normal rainfall.

Drip irrigation benefits

A drip irrigation system will provide water directly to the

plant.You can control the flow to each plant.

Drip irrigation

and other water

conservation

practices can

save water and

money.

In your backyard

On the farm

Drip irrigation ranges from inexpensive soaker hoses to

elaborate computerized systems.There may be an up-front

investment, but you’ll use less water and have

better water distribution.

Garden or hardware stores will have the supplies you need.

You may even want to engineer your own system from a garden hose. Be sure not to overapply fertilizer when using a

drip system.

Drip irrigation,

commonly used on

fruits and vegetables,

minimizes the amount

of water that

evaporates, and it

maximizes the amount

that is used by plants.

By placing the water

directly on the plant, or

next to it, less water

evaporates and less is

wasted on bare soil. 

High-efficiency irrigation

systems for row crops

use less energy to

pump water and, since

they spray water

downward, less water

evaporates before it

reaches the crop.

Farmers implement

other water

management practices

to reduce the amount

of water used to

produce a crop. 

9

PREVIOUS PAGE

(top) Terraced flowerbeds; (bottom) Farming grassed

terraces on the contour.

THIS PAGE

(top) Drip irrigation in vegetable garden; (bottom) Efficient

drip irrigation on the farm.

Ron Nichols, USDA

Ron Nichols, USDA
PEST MANAGEMENT

24

Early detection and

treatment of pests

means a healthier

growing environment.

Preventing pests

■ Plant disease and pest-resistant species.

■ Select a variety of hardy plant species and space them

properly.

■ Select plants that bloom and bear fruit at different times of

the year.

■ Plant flowers, herbs, and vegetables together and change

the location of annuals every year to prevent buildup of

certain pests.

■ Clean up plant litter and remove weeds before they go to seed.

■ Add bird and bat houses to the garden.

■ Provide habitat for beneficial insects that prey on pests.

■ Water and add nutrients properly to increase plant vigor.

Physical pest control

■ Remove insects by hand.

■ Wash pests away using a spray nozzle.

■ Set traps.

■ Make physical barriers around plants,such as a wire

mesh fence partially sunk into the ground for rabbits,

aluminum foil wrapped around vegetable plants for

cutworms,and solid barriers to prevent weeds from

invading flower beds or vegetable gardens.

Beneficial insects

Having the right insects in your garden or backyard can keep

pests and weeds in check. Beneficial insects, such as ladybugs,

assassin bugs, and praying mantises, prey on insects that can

harm your plants. The following insects can help control pests

in your backyard:

■ Ladybugs and lacewing larvae for controlling aphids and a

wide variety of other insects.

■ Preying mantises for controlling many insects.

Good planning can

put you a step

ahead of

unwanted insects, weeds, and

diseases. Healthy, vigorous

plants minimize pest damage.

Regular monitoring of

your lawn or garden is the

best way to stay on top of

potential plant health and

pest problems. If you see

minimal damage, it is often

easiest to just tolerate it and

continue monitoring. If pests

begin to cause serious

damage, there are a number

of treatment methods.

In your backyard

10

Runk/Schoenberger from Grant Heilman

Lynn Betts, USDA
25

■ Seedhead weevils and other beetles for controlling weeds.

■ Predatory mites for controlling pest mites, thrips, and

many others.

■ Ground beetles feed primarily on caterpillars that attack

trees and shrubs.

Chemical controls

If the methods listed above fail to solve your pest problem,

use chemicals of low toxicity and rapid decomposition. Always read the label, follow directions, wear protective clothing, and spot-spray. Some of these chemicals are:

■ Pesticidal soaps for aphids, scale crawlers, whiteflies,

and thrips.

■ Insecticidal dusts for aphids, beetles, fleas, ticks, ants,

and crickets.

■ Horticultural oils for aphids, mites, leafhoppers, mealybugs,

scales, plant lice, and mosquito larvae.

■ Botanicals for leafminers, fleas, and ticks.

Proper pest management on the farm involves a variety

of practices, like rotating crops to reduce disease and

insect problems, and establishing tall grass hedges to

provide habitat for beneficial insects. Most farmers now

monitor their fields regularly, a practice called “scouting,”

to keep track of insect and weed populations. Only when

populations reach a level where an unacceptable amount

of damage is likely are direct control measures initiated.

When pesticides

are necessary,

farmers fill and

clean tanks

away from

water sources,

mix only necessary amounts, and apply only to land

where problems exist. 

Before you apply pesticides, make sure that they will not harm

beneficial insects or be hazardous to humans, pets, or wildlife.

Living in harmony with wildlife

In some instances, practices described in this book could

attract unwanted wildlife, or more of a species than is desirable. If you have problems with any wildlife species, most

nurseries or garden stores, and organizations listed in the

“Where To Get Additional Assistance” section at the back of

this book can provide information on preventing or controlling them.The government agencies listed can provide information on Federal and State regulations regarding protection

of wildlife species. Equipped with the right information and

tools, most people are able to solve their own problems and

live in harmony with wildlife.

On the farm

PREVIOUS PAGE

(top)

Bluebird at 

nest box;

(bottom)

Spot spraying

dandelion;

(top left)

Seven-spotted 

lady beetle.

THIS PAGE

Scouting a 

Richard Day, Daybreak Imagery

farm field.

Tim McCabe, USDA
Even if you don’t have a backyard of your own, there

are many opportunities to use the practices in this

book to contribute to a healthy environment.

Backyard ponds, wetlands, native grass plantings, and plants

that attract wildlife can improve school grounds, areas around

apartments and businesses, community gardens, parks, and

other community areas.

Consider starting a backyard conservation project in your

community. Any vacant lot or unused space is a candidate for

improvement with natural plantings. A community garden can

be a source of pride as well as a source of food. A garden also

can be a hands-on teaching center for natural resource conservation concepts.

Businesses often sponsor community improvement projects in

cooperation with schools and civic organizations, which contribute labor.

EVERYBODY HAS A BACKYARD

26

Backyard practices

can be used in

shared spaces and

public places, too.

In your school or community

26

Virgil Ketner Bob Nichols, USDA
27

Ways to promote backyard conservation in your neighborhood

■ Encourage public officials to practice backyard conservation on parks and other public

property.

■ Plan projects in cooperation with neighboring property owners.

■ Encourage community involvement.

■ Encourage your building owner to use backyard conservation practices on the grounds

around the building.

■ Encourage school classes and other organizations to become involved in planning and

caring for the areas.

PREVIOUS PAGE

(top) Restored community wetland;

(center) Scrub jay drinking from birdbath;

(bottom) Urban community garden.

THIS PAGE

(top left) Planting to enhance community

areas; (top center) Robins; (top right) Mulch

of grass clippings on vegetable garden;

(bottom right) Native plants add interest to

pond; (bottom left) Fun and learning in

school garden.

Colleen Schneider, USDA

Lynn Betts, USDA

Richard Day,Daybreak Imagery

Jim Archambeault

Bob Nichols, USDA

Bob Nichols, USDA
Audubon and Audubon habitats

For chapter information regarding habitat

projects, call: 212-979-3117, or write:

■ National Audubon Society

Audubon Habitats

555 Audubon Place

Sacramento, CA 95825

http://www.audubon.org

Backyard conservation

practices

■ Bat Conservation International

P.O. Box 162603

Austin,TX 78716-2603

512-327-9721

Fax: 512-327-9724

http://www.batcon.org

■ Wildlife Habitat Council

1010 Wayne Avenue, Suite 920

Silver Spring, MD 20910

301-588-8994

Fax: 301-588-4629

E-mail: whc@wildlifehc.org

http://www.wildlifehc.org

■ Your local USDA Service Center (listed in

your phone book under U.S. government,

Department of Agriculture)

■ USDA Natural Resources Conservation

Service

Conservation Communications Staff,

Room 6105-S

1400 Independence Avenue, SW

Washington, DC 20250

202-720-3210

http://www.nrcs.usda.gov

■ USDA Farm Service Agency

Public Affairs Staff, Stop 0506

1400 Independence Ave, SW

Washington, D.C. 20250-0506

202-720-5237

http://www.fsa.usda.gov

Backyard Wildlife Habitat

■ National Wildlife Federation Backyard

Wildlife Habitat Program

8925 Leesburg Pike

Vienna,VA 22184-0001

703-790-4434

http://www.nwf.org/habitats

Developing and managing

wildlife habitats and controlling

unwanted wildlife

■ Your State fish and wildlife agency (listed

in your phone book under State

government)

■ International Association of Fish and

Wildlife Agencies

444 North Capitol Street,NW,Suite 544

Washington, DC 20001

202-624-7890

Fax: 202-624-7891

E-mail: iafwa@sso.org

■ The Wildlife Services office nearest you

(listed in your phone book under U. S.

government)

■ USDA Animal and Plant Health Inspection

Service

Wildlife Services

301-734-7921

http://www.aphis.usda.gov

Horticulture, wildlife, urban

forestry

■ Your local extension office (listed in your

phone book under local government)

■ A land-grant university

■ Cooperative State Research, Education and

Extension Service

U. S. Department of Agriculture

Washington, DC 20250-0900

202-720-3029

Fax: 202-690-0289

E-mail: csrees@reeusda.gov

http://www.reeusda.gov

Locally-led conservation

initiatives

■ Your local conservation district (listed in

your phone book under county

government)

■ National Association of Conservation

Districts

P.O. Box 855

League City,TX 77574-0855

1-800-825-5547

http://www.nacdnet.org

Pollinator gardens, bee

gardens

■ Forgotten Pollinators Campaign

Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum

2021 N. Kinney Road

Tucson, AZ 85743

E-mail: fpollen@azstarnet.com

http://www.Desert.Net/museum/fp/

Restoring and protecting

wildlife habitat

■ Your local U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service

office (listed in your phone book under

U.S. government, Department of the

Interior)

■ U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service

Division of Habitat Conservation

4401 N. Fairfax Drive, Room 400

Arlington,VA 11103

703-358-2201

http://www.fws.gov/index.html

Watershed, oceans, and

wetlands protection

■ U.S. Environmental Protection Agency

Office of Wetlands, Oceans and

Watersheds

Mail Code 4501F

Washington, DC 20460

Wetlands Hotline: 1-800-832-7828

Safe Drinking Water Hotline:

1-800-426-4791

http://www.epa/gov/OWOW/

Other sources of information

■ Local garden centers

■ Landscapers

■ Garden clubs

■ Native plant societies

WHERE TO GET ADDITIONAL ASSISTANCE

Additional information on Backyard Conservation is available on

the Web at http://www.nrcs.usda.gov. For more information on the

following topics, please contact the organizations listed below:

The U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) prohibits

discrimination in all its programs and activities on the

basis of race, color, national origin, gender, religion,

age, disability, political beliefs, sexual orientation, and

marital or family status. (Not all prohibited bases

apply to all programs.) Persons with disabilities who

require alternative means for communication of program information (Braille, large print, audiotape, etc.)

should contact USDA’s TARGET Center at 202-720-

2600 (voice and TDD).

To file a complaint of discrimination, write USDA,

Director, Office of Civil Rights, Room 326W,Whitten

Building, 14th and Independence Avenue, SW,

Washington, DC 20250-9410 or call (202) 720-5964

(voice or TDD). USDA is an equal opportunity

provider and employer.

FEBRUARY 1998

Program Aid 1621

FRONT COVER (top) Contour stripcropping,

Tim McCabe, USDA; (center)

Mockingbird eating chokecherry,

Richard Day, Daybreak Imagery.