15

Also use submerged pots of water lilies, iris,

spikerush,arrow-arum, duck potato, marsh

marigold,and other native wetland plants.

Natives are hardy and typically survive

over winter in the backyard pond, unlike

most non-native, tropical species.

Plants should cover 50 to 70 percent of the

water surface. Set the plants 1 to 2 inches

under water; the pots may need to be supported by submerged rocks or bricks. If

you are using native plants, there is usually

no need to fertilize them. For some exotic

water lilies, limited fertilizing—once yearly—may be required. Check with your

nursery on care of plants and how deep to

place potted plants. Be aware that overfertilizing may cause unwanted algae blooms,

which can rob the water of oxygen.

Add fish and scavengers

Consider stocking your backyard pond with

fish. They are fun to watch, and help keep

the pond free of unwanted insects. You’llalso

need scavengers, such asaquatic snails and

tadpoles, to help control algae. In cold climates,a heater may be necessary for fish to

survive the winter. Be aware that heaters can

use largeamounts of electricity.

Forsmall visitors

Fill a small area with sand or gravel

to create a shallow area where bees

and butterflies can drink.

Safety

Locatethe backyard pond whereit is unlikely

that unattended children or pets may be

attracted to it. Check local safety ordinances

to determineifafenceis required for thespecific depth and size of your pond. Check local

building ordinances for depth and safety

restrictionsand permits. Equip outdoor outlets with a ground-faultcircuit interrupter.

More help

Your local nursery, landscaper, or other suppliercan give you moreinformation on the

step-by-step process of building a backyard

pond, selecting and establishing suitable

plants in and around it,and landscaping.

A properly located

and maintained farm

pond can help stop

gully erosion and

improve water

quality. Ponds provide

water for livestock,

waterfowl, and fish;

store water for

emergencies; and add

beauty to the

landscape.

Wildlife use ponds for

water and habitat. As

one Iowa farmer says

about his pond, “I was

always taught that

one generation does

for the next, and we

thought leaving the

land and water in

better condition

would be something

good to leave to our

children and

grandchildren.”

On the farm

PREVIOUS PAGE

Recirculating water in backyard

pond.

THIS PAGE

(top) Landscaped backyard pond;

(right) Fishing in farm pond; (left)

Your “pond” may be as simple as a

birdbath.

Jim Archambeault

Lynn Betts, USDA

Tim McCabe, USDA
B A C K Y A R D W E T L A N D

16

Wetlands filter excess nutrients,

chemicals, and sediment, and

provide habitat for a host of

interesting creatures.

Many yards can support a backyard wetland that benefits you and your community. Letting runoff fromyour roof, parking area, and lot slowly filter through

a mini-wetland helps prevent pollution of neighboring creeks

and may help prevent flooding.

In your backyard

Where to put a wetland

Low areas that remain wet or damp much of the year are the

easiest places to establish wetlands. Any depression that collects rainwater or runoff from downspouts, or serves as the

path of drainwater leaving your yard, is an excellent spot to

plant wetland plants. You’ll create a backyard wetland area

that will be very low maintenance. There will be no more

“bogged down” lawn mowers because no mowing will be needed! The area will attract wildlife and filter the water draining

off your property. If you do not have an appropriate natural site,

you can create a wetland the same way you would a backyard

pond. Do not put excess fertilizer or pesticides on your lawn or

other areas feeding your wetland.

How to build a wetland

Partially blocking an existing drainage way or digging a shallow

basin may beall you need to do if you have clay soil that naturally

holds water. In better drained soil or where you want your wetland to stay wet most of the time, you can dig a shallow depression and bury a plastic liner as you would to create a backyard

pond. How long thearea stays flooded or wet during the growing

season is key to the types of plants to use. If runoff will not naturally keep thearea wet enough, you will need to have a supply of

water available for occasional use.

4

Gene Whitaker
17

Important! Because of the variety of potential conditions that

you can create, and the potential side-effects of blocking

drainage ways, you should always consult an expert before

starting a wetland project.

What to plant

A wide variety of attractive plants can grow in wetareas. Cattails

and many varieties of reeds thrive in the open sun and are easy to

care for. Many species are not harmed by long dry periods during

the summer. Cardinal flowers, sweet flag,and pickerel weed

thrive in wetareas. Treesand shrubs like black gum, water oak,

red-osier dogwood, button bush,and sweet pepper bush add

texture, color, and beauty to any landscape,and are adapted

to poorly drained soil. A variety of attractive ferns, skunk cabbage, and Jack-in-the-pulpit grow well in wooded wetlands that

are damp and shaded. If you create bog conditions of permanently damp organic soil, you can grow native orchids, Venus flytrap,

and sundew.

Wildlife in your wetland

Many birds and small animals will quickly start using

your wetland. Usually frogs, toads, salamanders, and

aquatic insects will find your wetland during the first spring.

A deep, permanent pool in the wetland can support native

frogs, toads, and possibly fish that will eat mosquito larva

and other insects. Most frogs and toads need spring pools in

which to breed; their tadpoles need shallow water for several

weeks while they mature. Wetlands that dry out in the summer

can support a variety of plants and wildlife and will not produce mosquitoes.

Wetlands filter excess nutrients, chemicals, and sediment from

runoff, keep ground water pure, hold back flood waters, provide

habitat for migratory birds and local wildlife, and add beauty to the

landscape. Across the country, many farmers are restoring wet areas

in cropland and pasture to fully functioning wetlands that benefit

their land and the environment.

On the farm

PREVIOUS PAGE

Wetland plants in low area

between buildings.

THIS PAGE

(top) Wet area below a spring

grows wetland plants; (right)

Common Yellowthroat, male;

(bottom) Restored prairie

pothole wetland.

Ken Hammond, USDA

© Janet Zinn

Tim McCabe, USDA
C O M P O S T I N G

18

All organic matter eventually decomposes. Composting

speeds the process by providing an ideal environment

for bacteriaand other decomposing micro-organisms.

The final product, humus or compost, looks and feels like fertile garden soil. This dark, crumbly, earthy-smelling stuff works

wonders on all kinds of soil and provides vital nutrients to help

plants grow and look better.

Decomposing micro-organisms need four key elements to thrive:

nitrogen, carbon, moisture,and oxygen. For best results, mix

materials high in nitrogen (such as clover and fresh grass clippings) and those high in carbon (such as dried leavesand

twigs). If there is not a good supply of nitrogen-rich material,a

handful of general lawn fertilizer will help the nitrogen-carbon

ratio. Moisture is provided by rain, but you may need to water

or cover the pile to keep it damp. Be careful not to saturate

the pile. Oxygen is supplied by turning or mixing the pile.

More turning yields faster decomposition.

Composting turns

household wastes into

valuable fertilizer.

In your backyard

Getting started

Many materials can beadded to a compost pile, including leaves,

grass clippings, straw, woody brush, vegetableand fruit scraps,

coffee grounds, livestock manure, sawdust,and shredded paper.

Avoid using diseased plants, meat scraps that may attract animals,

and dog or cat manure, which can carry disease.

Composting can be as simple or as involved as you would like,

and depends on how much yard waste you have, how fast you

want results, and the effort you’re willing to invest.

Cold composting

With cold composting, you can just pile grass clippings and dry leaves on the ground or in a bin. This

method requires no maintenance, but you’ll have to

wait several months to a year for the pile to decompose. Cold composting works well if you’re short on time or

have little yard waste. Keep weeds and diseased plants out of

the mix. Add yard waste as it accumulates.

5

Lynn Betts, USDA
19

On the farm

Like composting, waste

management on the farm turns

a potential waste into a

resource that saves money and

helps the environment.

Producers use livestock manure

to fertilize crops. When manure

is properly handled, it can be

safely applied to the land

without the risk of polluting

water.

Composting is also practiced in

some poultry operations. The

compost is used as fertilizer on

the farms and for lawns and

gardens.

Hot composting

Hot composting requires more work, but with a few minutes

a day and the right ingredients you can have finished compost

in a few weeks. Hot piles must be built all at once in a 4- to 5-

foot cube and turned regularly. As decomposition occurs, the

pile will shrink. A 3-foot cube is needed to maintain necessary

heat. Hot piles can reach 110 to 160 degrees Fahrenheit,

killing most weed seeds and plant diseases.

■ On a level site, lay down bricks or prunings to promote air

circulation.

■ Spread several inches of the high-carbon material, then mix

high-carbon and high-nitrogen material together. Water

periodically.

■ Punch holes in the sides of the pile for aeration.

■ The pile will heat up and then begin to cool. Start turning

when the pile’s temperature begins to drop.

Move materials from the center to the outside and vice versa.

Turn every day or two and you should get compost in less

than 4 weeks. Turning every other week will give compost in

1 to 3 months. Finished compost will smell sweet and be cool

and crumbly to the touch.

PREVIOUS PAGE

Nutrient-rich compost

THIS PAGE

(top) A healthy backyard; (top right) Finished

compost; (bottom right) Finished compost showing

crumbly structure; (bottom) Manure storage tank. Maggie Strucker

Steven J. Saffier

Steven J. Saffier

Lynn Betts, USDA
M U L C H I N G

20

Mulching

cools, protects,

and enriches

the soil.

Leaving the

previous year’s crop

stubble on the soil

surface is called

conservation tillage.

This practice helps keep wind from blowing soil

particles and helps stop rain from washing soil

away. Also, research is showing that leaving crop

residues helps hold carbon in the soil and aids in

reducing greenhouse gases. This practice is often

used in combination with other conservation

measures such as wind strips or contour farming.

On the farm

Mulching involves placing a layer of organic material

around plants. As mulch decomposes, it adds organic matter to the soil. This provides important nutrients for plants and an ideal environment for earthworms and

other organisms that help enrich the soil.

Mulching can recycle yard wastes and improve your soil.

Mulch protects soil from erosion, prevents weed growth,

conserves soil moisture, stabilizes soil temperature, reduces

compaction, and keeps clean and dry any fruit or

vegetable that touches the ground.

Mulch materials

The best place to look for mulch materials is in your own

yard. Grass clippings and leaves work well for mulching if

they are dry and weed free. Avoid adding clippings to your

vegetable garden from lawns that have been treated with weed

killer within the last two mowings. If you live near farming

areas, you may be able to get old hay from a farmer or feed

store.

Compost makes an excellent organic mulch material. It adds

nutrients to the soil and has a natural appearance. Wood chips

and bark work well around trees and shrubs and make attractive walkways through gardens.

Applying mulch

Apply mulch when plants are established and soil is

warm. First, water your garden well. Then place a layer of

mulch around the plants. Thickness of the mulch layer varies

for each material:

Dry grass clippings 2 inches

Shredded hardwood mulch, straw, or wood chips 2 to 4 inches

Compost 3 to 4 inches

Dry leaves 6 inches

You will help insulate the root zone and lower evaporation

rates if you liberally apply mulch. Be careful not to smother

the plants. As the mulch breaks down, add more material to

the top throughout the growing season. After harvest, work

the mulch into the soil to integrate the organic matter, or

leave it on the surface to decay naturally and be carried into

the soil by earthworms.

In your backyard

6

June Davidek, USDA

Gene Alexander, USDA
On the farm

Agricultural producers

sample soils for nutrient needs. As technology becomes available and affordable,

more producers are

varying fertilizer rates

within each field,

depending on soil test

results. This precision

farming method

places the correct

amount of fertilizer

where it is needed.

Applying only those

nutrients plants can

use improves the farm

economically and

environmentally.

N U T R I E N T M A N A G E M E N T

21

Apply only those

nutrients the

plants can use.

Nutrients are essential for good plant growth, but

overapplying nutrients is not good for plants or for the

environment. Excess nutrients leach through the soil and

end up in ground water, or run off into storm sewers and end up

choking a lake or stream.

The three primary plant nutrients are nitrogen,

phosphorus, and potassium. Generally, nitrogen

promotes top growth, phosphorus helps develop

stronger roots and more flower and fruit

production, and potassium builds durability and

disease resistance.

Remember to consider native plants or others with low fertilizer needs.

Soil test is key

The key to good nutrient management on thefarm and in your

backyard isareliablesoil test. Withoutasoil test, you could be

applying too much, too little, or the wrong nutrients. You’ll wanta

separatesoil test for your lawn and for your garden.

Commercial soil test kits are available at nurseries and lawn and

garden suppliers. Ask for information on how to take your soil

samples. Apply only the nutrients needed according to the soil

test, and at the right time. Never exceed the recommended rate.

Fertilizing lawns

■ Useslow-release nitrogen fertilizers.

■ Mow often,and leave grassclippings on thelawn for fertilizer.

■ Becareful not to spread fertilizer on sidewalksand driveways.

■ Besureto calibrate your spreadercorrectly.

Fertilizing gardens

■ Use compost to enhance or replace fertilizers.

■ Choose a level site, or terrace the garden, to avoid runoff and

erosion.

■ Place fertilizer near plants rather than broadcast it over the

entire garden.

■ Add organic matter to the soil by using manures and organic

fertilizers at a conservative rate.

In your backyard

7

PREVIOUS PAGE

(top) Applying shredded

mulch; (bottom) Soybeans

growing through corn

residue.

THIS PAGE

(top right) Using soil test

kit in yard; (bottom)

Testing soil on the farm;

(top left) Curbside runoff

drains to lake.

Lynn Betts, USDA

Amy Janssen Smith, USDA

Lynn Betts, USDA
T E R R A C I N G

22

Terracing

makes flower

and vegetable

gardening

possible on

steep slopes.

Terraces can break your backyard into several minigardens. On steep slopes, terracing can make planting agarden feasible. Terraces prevent erosion by shortening

the long slope into a series of shorter, more level steps. This

allows heavy rains to soak in rather than run off and cause

soil erosion.

Materials forterraces

Building terraces is like building a staircase. The material you

use to make the face of the stair may be treated lumber—such

as railroad ties, poles, or posts—or bricks, rocks, concrete

blocks, or similar materials.

Height of walls

The steepness of the slope often dictates wall height. Make

the terraces in your yard high enough so the land area

between them is fairly level. Be sure the terrace material is

strong enough and anchored well enough to stay in place

through freezing and thawing, rainstorms, and so forth. Large

projects, such as retaining walls, may require a professional

design and specialized assistance and equipment. Be sure to

check local building codes regarding the installation of high

walls, and work safely.

Erosion control is a consideration

Heavy rains can cause erosion between terraces, and create

small gullies if water concentrates as it goes over a terrace.

To help prevent erosion, add mulch or other good ground

cover on land between terraces.

In your backyard

Terraces catch runoff

water, let the water

soak into the ground,

and deliver the excess

safely to the bottom of

a hillside —much like

eavespouts on a

house. The earthen

ridges built around a

hillside on the contour

cut a long slope into

shorter slopes,

preventing water from

building to a highly

erosive force.

Some terraces are

seeded to grass, which

provides erosion

control and a nesting

area for birds. Terraces

are often used in

combination with other

conservation practices

to provide more

complete soil

protection.

On the farm

8

Ron Nichols, USDA

Gene Alexander, USDA
W A T E R C O N S E R V A T I O N

23

I

f you rely on watering to make your lawn grow and your

garden productive, consider a more efficient system. There

are several ways to improve the use of water.

Use water again

When it rains, if no water recycling system has been planned,

the water that runs off your house keeps on going to the storm

sewer. By saving that water, and reusing it on your garden or

lawn later, you save energy and water.

A simple recycling system directs water from eavespouts to a

storage barrel. You fill a bucket with water from the storage

barrel and carry the water to your garden. This is a simple and

effective system. However, you may want a more elaborate

method of capturing and distributing rain water.

Watering to save energy

Whenever practical, water in the early morning. In

arid climates, it’s okay to water in the evenings and at

night. You’ll lose less water to evaporation than if you

watered in the middle of the day, and the plants are less

stressed and can take up the water more efficiently.

Mulch or fiber cloth preserves soil moisture. You can find supplies and information at a nursery or hardware store.

Consider planting native species. They usually use little or no

water beyond normal rainfall.

Drip irrigation benefits

A drip irrigation system will provide water directly to the

plant. You can control the flow to each plant.

Drip irrigation

and other water

conservation

practices can save

water and money.

In your backyard

On the farm

Drip irrigation ranges from inexpensive soaker hoses to

elaborate computerized systems. There may be an up-front

investment, but you’ll use less water and have better water

distribution.

Garden or hardware stores will have the supplies you need. You

may even want to engineer your own system from a garden

hose. Be sure not to overapply fertilizer when using a drip system.

Drip irrigation,

commonly used on

fruits and vegetables,

minimizes the amount

of water that evaporates,

and it maximizes the

amount that is used by

plants. By placing the

water directly on the

plant, or next to it, less

water evaporates and

less is wasted on bare

soil.

High-efficiency irrigation

systems for row crops

use less energy to pump

water and, since they

spray water downward,

less water evaporates

before it reaches the

crop. Farmers

implement other water

management practices

to reduce the amount of

water used to produce a

crop.

9

PREVIOUS PAGE

(top) Terraced flowerbeds; (bottom) Farming grassed terraces

on the contour.

THIS PAGE

(top) Drip irrigation in vegetable garden; (bottom) Efficient

drip irrigation on the farm.

Ron Nichols, USDA

Ron Nichols, USDA
P E S T M A N A G E M E N T

24

Early detection and

treatment of pests means

a healthier growing

environment.

Preventing pests

■ Plant disease- and pest-resistant species.

■ Select a variety of hardy plant species and space them

properly.

■ Select plants that bloom and bear fruit at different times of

the year.

■ Plant flowers, herbs, and vegetables together and change

the location of annuals every year to prevent buildup of

certain pests.

■ Clean up plant litterand remove weeds beforethey go to seed.

■ Add bird and bat houses to the garden.

■ Provide habitat for beneficial insects that prey on pests.

■ Water and add nutrients properly to increase plant vigor.

Physical pest control

■ Remove insects by hand.

■ Wash pests away using a spray nozzle.

■ Set traps.

■ Make physical barriers around plants, such as a

wire mesh fence partially sunk into the ground for

rabbits, aluminum foil wrapped around vegetable

plants for cutworms, and solid barriers to prevent

weeds from invading flower beds or vegetable

gardens.

Beneficial insects

Having theright insects in your garden or backyard can keep pests

and weeds in check. Beneficial insects, such as ladybugs,assassin

bugs,and praying mantises, prey on insects thatcan harm your

plants. Thefollowing insectscan help control pests in your

backyard.

Good planning can put

you a step ahead of

unwanted insects,

weeds,and diseases. Healthy,

vigorous plants minimize pest

damage.

Regular monitoring of your

lawn or garden is the best way

to stay on top of potential

plant health and pest

problems. If you see minimal

damage, it is often easiest to

just tolerateitand continue

monitoring. If pests begin to

causeserious damage, thereare

a number of treatment

methods.

In your backyard

10

© Chuck Younger

Lynn Betts, USDA
25

■ Ladybugs and lacewing larvae for controlling aphids and a

wide variety of other insects.

■ Praying mantises for controlling many insects.

■ Seedhead weevils and other beetles for controlling weeds.

■ Predatory mites for controlling pest mites, thrips, and many

others.

■ Ground beetles for controlling caterpillars that attack trees

and shrubs.

Chemical controls

If the methods listed above fail to solve your pest problem, use

chemicals of low toxicity and rapid decomposition.Always

read the label, follow directions, wear protective clothing,

and spot-spray. Some of these chemicals are:

■ Pesticidal soaps for aphids, scale crawlers, whiteflies, and

thrips.

■ Insecticidal dusts for aphids, beetles, fleas, ticks, ants, and

crickets.

■ Horticultural oils for aphids, mites, leafhoppers, mealybugs,

scales, plant lice, and mosquito larvae.

■ Botanicals for leafminers, fleas, and ticks.

Proper pest management on the farm involves a variety of

practices, like rotating crops to reduce disease and insect

problems, and establishing tall grass hedges to provide

habitat for beneficial insects. Most farmers now monitor

their fields regularly, a practice called“scouting,”to keep

track of insect and weed populations. Only when populations reach a level where an unacceptable amount of

damage is likely are direct control measures initiated.

When pesticides

are necessary,

farmers fill and

clean tanks away

from water

sources, mix

only necessary amounts, and apply only to land where

problems exist.

Before you apply pesticides, make sure that they will not harm

beneficial insects or be hazardous to humans, pets, or wildlife.

Living in harmony with wildlife

In some instances, practices described in this book could

attract unwanted wildlife, or more of a species than is desirable. If you have problems with any wildlife species, most

nurseries or garden stores and the organizations listed in the

“Where To Get Additional Assistance” section at the back of

this book can provide information on preventing or controlling them. The government agencies listed can provide information on Federal and State regulations regarding protection

of wildlife species. Equipped with the right information and

tools, most people are able to solve their own problems and

live in harmony with wildlife.

On the farm

PREVIOUS PAGE

(top left)

Aphids;

(bottom left)

Spot spraying

dandelion.

THIS PAGE

(top)

Ruby-crowned

Kinglet;

(bottom)

Scouting a

©

farm field. Janet Zinn

Tim McCabe, USDA
Even if you don’t have a backyard of your own, there are

many opportunities to use the practices in this book to

contribute to a healthy environment. Backyard ponds,

wetlands, native grass plantings, and plants that attract

wildlife can improve school grounds, areas around apartments

and businesses, community gardens, parks, and other community areas.

Consider starting a backyard conservation project in your

community. Any vacant lot or unused space is a candidate for

improvement with natural plantings. A community garden

can be a source of pride as well as a source of food. A garden

also can be a hands-on teaching center for natural resource

conservation concepts.

Businesses often sponsor community improvement projects in

cooperation with schools and civic organizations, which contribute labor.

E V E R Y B O D Y H A S A B A C K Y A R D

26

Backyard practices

can be used in shared

spaces and public

places, too.

In your school or community

26

Tom Butler Bob Nichols, USDA
27

Ways to promote backyard conservation in your neighborhood

■ Encourage public officials to practice backyard conservation on parks and other public

property.

■ Plan projects in cooperation with neighboring property owners.

■ Encourage community involvement.

■ Encourage your building owner to use backyard conservation practices on the grounds

around the building.

■ Encourage school classes and other organizations to become involved in planning and

caring for the areas.

PREVIOUS PAGE

(top) Restored community wetland; (center)

Rufous Hummingbird, male; (bottom)

Urban community garden.

THIS PAGE

(top left) Planting to enhance community

areas; (top center) Eastern Bluebird,

female, feeding young; (top right) Mulch of

grass clippings on vegetable garden; (bottom

right) Arboretums and parks foster interest

in gardening, horticulture, and

environmental issues; (bottom left) Fun and

learning in a school garden.

Colleen Schneider, USDA

Lynn Betts, USDA

Wendell Long

Jim Archambeault

Bob Nichols, USDA

Bob Nichols, USDA
Audubon At Home

■ For information on creating healthy habitats

in your backyard and beyond, visit

http://www.audubon.org and click on

Audubon At Home. To find your nearest

Audubon chapter or center, click on States,

Centers & Chapters. For more information,

write to audubonathome@audubon.org

Backyard conservation practices

■ Bat Conservation International

512-327-9721

http://www.batcon.org

■ Wildlife Habitat Council

301-588-8994

E-mail: whc@wildlifehc.org

http://www.wildlifehc.org

■ Your local USDA Service Center (listed in

your phone book under U.S. government,

Department of Agriculture)

■ USDA Natural Resources Conservation

Service

202-720-3210

http://www.nrcs.usda.gov

■ USDA Farm Service Agency

202-720-9563

http://www.fsa.usda.gov

Backyard Wildlife Habitat

■ National Wildlife Federation

Backyard Wildlife Habitat Program

703-438-6000

http://www.nwf.org/

backyardwildlifehabitat/

Developing and managing

wildlife habitats and controlling

unwanted wildlife

■ Your State fish and wildlife agency (listed in

your phone book under State government)

■ International Association of Fish and

Wildlife Agencies

202-624-7890

www.iafwa.org

■ The Wildlife Services office nearest you

(listed in your phone book under U. S.

government)

■ USDA Animal and Plant Health Inspection

Service

301-734-7921

http://www.aphis.usda.gov

Horticulture, wildlife, urban

forestry

■ Your local extension office (listed in your

phone book under local government)

■ A land-grant university

■ Cooperative State Research, Education and

Extension Service, USDA

http://www.csrees.usda.gov

■ National Arbor Day Foundation

888-448-7337

http://www.arborday.org

■ USDA Forest Service

http://www.fs.fed.us

202-205-8333

■ Your State forester (listed in your phone

book under State government)

Locally-led conservation

initiatives

■ Your local conservation district (listed in

your phone book under county

government)

■ National Association of Conservation

Districts

202-547-6223

http://www.nacdnet.org

Pollinators, bee gardens

■ North American Pollinator Protection

Campaign

415-362-1137

http://www.pollinator.org

http://www.nappc.org

■ International Sonoran Desert Alliance

http://www.isdanet.org

■ University of California, Berkeley

http://nature.berkeley.edu/urbanbeegardens

■ USDA-ARS Carl Hayden Bee Research

Center

http://gears.tucson.ars.ag.gov

Restoring and protecting

wildlife habitat

■ Your local U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service

office (listed in your phone book under U.S.

government, Department of the Interior)

■ U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service

http://www.fws.gov

Watersheds, oceans, and

wetlands protection

■ U.S. Environmental Protection Agency

http://www.epa.gov/owow/

Wetlands Helpline: 1-800-832-7828

Safe Drinking Water information:

http://www.epa.gov/safewater

Other sources of information

■ Local garden centers

■ Landscapers

■ Garden clubs

■ Native plant societies

WHERE TO GET ADDITIONAL ASSISTANCE

Additional information on backyard conservation is available on

the Web at http://www.nrcs.usda.gov/backyard. For more information

on the following topics, please contact the organizations listed below:

The U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) prohibits discrimination in all its programs and activities on the basis of race, color,

national origin, age, disability,and where applicable, sex, marital

status, familial status, parental status, religion, sexual orientation,

genetic information, political beliefs, reprisal, or becauseall or a

part of an individual’s income is derived from any publicassistance

program. (Not all prohibited basesapply to all programs.) Persons

with disabilities who require alternative means for communication

of program information (Braille, large print, audiotape, etc.)

should contact USDA’s TARGET Center at (202) 720-2600

(voiceand TDD). To file a complaint of discrimination write to

USDA, Director, Office of Civil Rights, 1400 Independence

Avenue, S.W., Washington, D.C. 20250-9410 or call (800) 795-

3272 (voice) or (202) 720-6382 (TDD). USDA is an equal

opportunity provider and employer.

Issued February 1998

Revised April 2007

PA-1621

FRONT COVER (top) Contour stripcropping,

Tim McCabe, USDA; (center)

Cedar Waxwing, © Tom Munson

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