Professional Paper No. 10

(A, Economic Geology, 20 

I B, Descriptive Geology, 23

DEPARTMENT OF TILE JNTKKJOR 

UNITED STATES GEOLOGICAL SURVEY

CHAKLES J). WALCOTT, DIRECTOR

RECONNAISSANCE

FKOM

FORT HAMLffl TO KOTZEBUE SOUND, ALASKA

BY WAY UF

DALL, KANUTI, ALLEN, AND KOWAK RIVERS

BY

"WALTER C. MENDENHALL

WASHINGTON

GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE

1902
CONTENTS.

Page.

Introduction..________.___._.____._......_._._....................-..............-.....-.. 7

itinerary ___.....-....._....... ...-........._......_.......---.......................---.- 8

Historical summary............1.......................................................... 11

Conditions and methods of work........................................................... 18

General geography........................................................................ 20

Local geography and routes............................................................... 21

Ball River.............................................................................. 21

Kanuti River......................'.........:......................................... 22

Routes via Dall and Kanuti rivers ................................................ 23

Alien Biver.._....,..-........................................................_........ 24

Kowak River. .............'............................................... ............ 25

Kotzebue Sound.._................................_..'............ 1................... 27

 Tables of distances.......................... 1......................................... 27

General geology ........................................................................... 31

Metamorphic complex ................................................................ 31

General statement................................................................ 31

Age......-..............---.............-..........-.-----.........--.-.--..--.-- 32

Localities and descriptions ..............-.....--'.................................. 32

Dall River area. ............................................................... 32

Intrusives ..............'.................................................. 33

Kowak area......................"............................................ 33

Kotzebue Sound area ---...-...--..-.......-......-----.........-...::.:..-... 35

Structure .......................................................................... 36

Veins ............................................................................. 36 i

Kanuti series......................................................................... 37

Localities and descriptions ........................................................ 37

Interrelations..................................................................... 38

Age and equivalents.............................................................. 38

Bergman series ..........'............................................................. 39

Localities and descriptions ......................................................... 39

Structure............;...........-...-............................................. 40

Age.............................................................................. 40

Kenai series.......................................................................... 41

Localities and descriptions ......................................................... 41

Structure .............. ........................................................... 42

Age.--.-----.....-----.------:---------- ------..------------...-.------'-------- 42

' 3
4 CONTENTS.

General geology Continued. Page.

Lavas ................................. .............................................. 42

Basalt...........'......................................................... 42

Andesites and tuffs ............................'........................... 43

Age....---.---.-..---..-....-.--..-....--.--..--..----..--.-.--..-....--......... 43

Unconsolidated deposits................................................................ 43

Ball River................................................................ 43

KaiHiti River ............................................................. 43 

Alien Kiver ............. -. ...... ......................................... 44

Kowak River........................... :^................................ 44

Kotzebue Sound .......................................................... 45

Glaciation ............ ....................... ........................................ 45

Economic geology..--..--.-..-.......-_..._......._............_............-........_..... 49

Coal.................................................................................. 49

Dall River................................................................ 49

Kowak River............................................................. 49

Gold..........--.-.-....-............................:......:.................-...... 50

Ball River.................................;.............................. 50

Alien River .............................................................. 50

Noatak River............................,...............'................. 50

Kowak River.................................. ; ..............__....-..... 50

Kotzebue Sound .......................................................... 50

Natives................................................................................... 51

Yukon Valley .........................................'.....................-......... 51

Kowak Valley...,.........._.......................-................................. 52

Climate................................................................................... 53

General _....._........_..._..._..._..........._....'............-.................,... 53

Open season....----.........--.. .................................................... 53

Meteorologic data..................................................................... 54

Fish and game .....--.-.....--.-........-.---..-.......-....-.-----.-.-.--.-.-....--..... 55

Vegetation.....'..........................'........ ........................................ 56

List of plants collected in northern Alaska by W. L. Poto in 1901, identified chiefly by

Frederick V. Coville and \V. F. Wight.............................................. 58

Index.................................................................................... 67
ILLUSTRATIONS.

Page. 

PLATE I. Outline map of Alaska.--...........-............................,..__.....:...-._. 7

II. A, Tracking along the edge of the ice, Lake Laberge; B, Rouuding a bad point, Lake

Laberge....................................................................... 8

III. A, A riffle, Dall River; B, Sledding, Lake Laberge................................. 10

IV. A, Lower end of Kowak River gorge; B, Looking toward the head of Lake Walker.. 14 

T Vo. Topographic reconnaissance map.................................................. 20

V. General geologic map. . .......................'.................................... 31

VI. A, View along the upper Kowak 1 mile below the mouth of Kichaiakaka Creek;

U, Slaty aspect of Berginau series in lower gorge of Kowak River.................. 34

VII. Geologic map of area above Kowak-Allen portage .................................. 38

VTIT. A, Outcrop of Tertiary (Kenai) sediments, Coal Creek; B, Rapids in outlet of Walker

Lake........-........................,..................-......-.-.........'.--. 42

IX. Neariug the headwaters of Helpmejack Creek...................................... 56
RECONNAISSANCE FROM FORT HAMLIN TO KOTZEBUE SOUND. BY WAY OF 

J)ALL, KANUTI, ALIEN, AND KOWAK" RIVERS.

By WALTER C. MENDJRNHALL.

INTRODUCTION.

The reconnaissance described in the following pages was carried out in pursuance of a plan which has been followed for some years by the United States 

Geological Survey in the topographic and geologic exploration of the little-known 

parts of Alaska and in the collection of such information as will be of value 

not only to the scientific world, but to the prospector, the miner, and the 

trader. Capital disappears and years are wasted by prospectors who push out 

beyond the shifting frontier and pursue their search for gold where gold is not to 

be expected, and lives are being continually lost because the location and character 

of trails, drainage ways, and mountain ranges and passes are unknown, or because 

the knowledge which a few possess is not in a form available for the use of others.

Gradually the great waterways and mountain systems are being mapped, and 

reliable information is being gathered concerning the distribution of timber, the 

number and character of the native inhabitants, and the presence or absence of 

game all matters of vital interest to the traveler who, whatever his object, 

ventures away from the great central waterway of the Yukon or from the trading 

stations on other streams.

An important object of the work in the region under consideration is to contribute to the increasing but as yet inadequate knowledge of the interior of the 

great Territory, and to present such conclusions concerning the known and probable distribution of mineral wealth as are justified by a hasty reconnaissance.

Those immediately responsible for the work, Mr. D. L. Reaburn and the 

writer, desire to express their appreciation of the cheerful service rendered at all 

times, and often under trying circumstances, by the other members of the party, 

Messrs, li. C. Applegate, W. B. Reaburn, W. W. Von Canon, George Rcvine, 

and W. L. Poto, without whose individual and collective cooperation the results

riThis river is known as the "Kobuk" or "Kovuk" by the natives, prospectors, and traders. In tliis report the name 

Kowik is used, in accordance with the deeision of the U. S. Board on Geographic Names. See Geographic Dictionary of 

Alaska: Bull. U. S. Geol. Survey No^ 187, p. 250.

7
8 FOKT HAMLIN TO KOTZEBUE SOUND, ALASKA.

secured would not have been possible. Many others have also given information 

or aid nnd extended courtesies, but from among these many friends it is not 

possible to select names for especial mention, for the friendly hand is always 

extended by the Alaskan pioneer.

ITINERARY.

The party assembled in Seattle about the middle of May, 1901, and on May 19 

took passage on the steamer City'of Seattle, arriving at Skagway on the 23d. It 

was learned that Lake Laberge was still covered with ice and that steamers would 

not be able to get through until about the 10th of June. The Yukon River from 

Lower Laberge to Dawson, however, had been open since May 23. Being extremely 

loath to lose the ten days which remained before Lake Laberge would be navigable, 

canoes were purchased at White Horse, and with these the trip through Lake 

Laberge was made during the last of May and the early part of June. Open water 

was found between the ice and the shore for much of the distance, and where these 

channels had been closed by the crushing of the floe against exposed points the 

boats were placed upon rude runners and hauled over the ice until open water 

again appeared.

Finding the steamer Bailey waiting for outside mail at Lower Laberge, the 

party embarked on the 2d of June and reached Dawson early on the 4th. Here 

the party was divided, and Mr. Reaburn, with three men, was equipped with 

provisions and boats for running a stadia line from Fort Yukon to Fort Hamlin. 

This portion of the party left Dawson on the 5th of June on the steamer Louise, 

and began its work at Fort Yukon on the 8th.

The remaining members of the party stayed at Dawson until June 10, buying 

supplies and securing information concerning the country between the mouth of 

Dall River and the Koyukuk, which was to be traversed later. A brief visit was 

made to the producing creeks near Dawson. On the evening of the 10th the 

party left Dawson and arrived at Fort Hamlin on the morning of June 13. 

Three weeks' supplies were purchased here for the trip to Bergman, and on the 

17th the party was reunited by the arrival of Mr. Reaburn and his assistants.

June 18 to June 27 were spent in carrying the traverse line up the Dall 

River to the collection of cabins on its upper course known as Dall City. Here 

the overland pack trail from Fort Hamlin to the Koyukuk diggings crosses the 

river, and prospectors were found, bound for the Koyukuk diggings, but entirely 

ignorant of the route to be followed in reaching them.

By 'the evening of July 3 the entire outfit had been transported over the 18 

miles of portage to a point on the Kanuti River where boats with their loads 

would float. The stream here, however, was swift, shallow, and full of bowlders, 

so that boats could be taken through it only with the greatest care, and even then
U. S. GEOLOGICAL SURVEY PROFESSIONAL. PAPER No.lU HL.J

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U. S. GEOLOGICAL SURVEY PROFESSIONAL PAPER NO. 10 PL. I

A. TRACKING ALONG THE EDGE OF THE ICE, LAKE LABERGE.

B. BOUNDING A BAD POINT, LAKE LABERGE
ITINETCARY. 9

sit some risk. On the 5th of July a broad valley along the upper course of 

Kiinuti. River was reached. Here the stream wanders in tortuous meanders, and 

as there was abundant water, good progress was made. On the next day rapids 

were encountered, which extend for a distance of 25 or 30 miles, and in which 

there is a fall of YOO to 800 feet. Through much of this distance the stream is 

a practically continuous rapid, full of large bowlde'rs, and most careful work was 

required to get the boats through without wrecking them completely. Notwithstanding the utmost care they were punctured several times, and in two or three 

instances were swamped, although without much damage to outfit or provisions. 

The most serious feature of this section, however, was the delay which it occasioned 

and the consequent exhaustion of supplies, so that by the time the more easily 

navigable'lower portion of the river was reached, on the 10th of July, provisions 

were nearly gone, and in order not to interrupt the work recourse was had to the 

game aud fish supplies of the river. Fortunately, ducks and geese were abundant, 

and these furnished the greater portion of the subsistence for the last few days 

spent on the Kanuti River. At the mouth of Mentunontli Creek a fishing part}' 

of Koyukuk Indians was encountered, and from these a few pounds of flour and 

bacon were purchased.

On the 15th of July Bergman was reached. Here the supplies for the summer, shipped in during the previous year, were found in excellent condition, and 

the next three days, until the 18th, were spent in fitting up the canoes, packing 

supplies, securing information, and generally preparing for the principal task of the 

summer, which was still ahead. Through the good offices of Mr. James Powers, 

the agent of the Alaska Commercial Company, the, services of John, a Kowak 

native, familiar with the portage from the Alien to the Kowak waters, were 

secured. With the supplies loaded into four boats the party left Bergman on 

the 18th of July and camped that night a short distance above the mouth of 

the Alien.

The trip up the Alien was without special incident, the stream, although 

swift, being free from serious rapids aud usually having along its shores bars 

sufficiently broad to give good tracking. On the 24th of July the mouth of 

Helpmejack Creek, 90 miles from Bergman by water, was reached, and on the 

next day the ascent of the crock was begun. At the head of this stream is the 

pass leading to the Kowak. On the 30th of July, after making double trips 

along a portion of the shallower upper waters of Helpmejack Creek, the party 

camped at the eastern end of the portage, which is only 5i miles in length and 

involves a climb of only 300 feet. On the 2d of August, while encamped 

at the halfway point on the portage, a forest fire, started in the dry moss from 

a carelessly placed smudge, seriously threatened for a time to destroy the camp
10 FOET HAMLIN TO KOTZEBUE SOUND, ALASKA.

and its supplies. The fire was eventually beaten buck, not, however, until two 

tents and practically all the contents of one of them, including sleeping bags and 

the heavy (slothing of three of the men, had been lost. By redistributing the 

clothing on hand and making blankets of the burnt fragments of sleeping, bags 

remaining, the members of the party who had suffered most from the fire were 

again equipped, so that during the remainder of our trip there was no serious 

inconvenience. While at Bergman a packer and his horse had been engaged to 

meet the party on the portage and help transport the outfit, but he did .not 

reach .the camp on the portage until the 5th of August, in time to help with but 

one day's psieking.

On the 8th the party started down Kichaiakaka Creek, on the west side of the 

divide, and on the morning of the 10th reached the Kowak River, which at this 

point is a beautifully clear mountain stream, 125 feet in width and 6 or 8 feet 

deep. During the afternoon of that day the party descended the river as far as 

the outlet of Walker Lake, passing en route two rapids. Around one of these it 

was necessary to 'portage, but through the other the boats were lined in safety. 

On the llth of August the camp was moved up Walker Creek to the rapids 

about a mile below the southern end of the lake. The next day the empty 

canoes were taken through this barrier and almost to the upper end of the lake, 

which was discovered and mapped by Cantwell in 1885.

With the uncertainty as to the length of the river yet to be traversed before 

reaching Kotzebue Sound, and conditions of transportation after we should arrive 

there, we felt it unwise to spend more time here near the headwaters of the 

Kowak, and accordingly resumed the journey downstream on the 13th of August. 

The party looked forward rather anxiously to the passage of the gorge some 

miles below us, which Cantwell had described as particularly difficult, and in 

which he came near losing one of his men. John, too, although an excellent 

boatman, had not traversed this upper portion of the river during the summer 

season, and evidently had received rather alarming accounts of its difficulties 

from his native friends, so that the party was greatly relieved when, on the 14th 

of August, the head of the mile-long canyon was reached and it was found that 

its passage in light canoes was not at all a serious matter. After an hour's work 

the entire outfit was taken through, one slight puncture being the only mishap.

On the 17th the native village at the mouth of the outlet of Lake Selby was 

reached, and the following day camp was held here while a visit was made to the 

lake 5 miles to the north for geologic and topographic work. The journey downstream was not again interrupted until > the mouth of the Ambler Kiver was 

reached, on the 23d of August. Between Lake Selby and the Ambler many native 

fishing villages were passed. There are also many well-built cabins scattered
U. S. GEOLOGICAL SURVEY PROFESSIONAL PAPER MO. 10 PL. Ill

A. A RIFFLE, DALL RIVER,

It SLEDDING ON LAKE LABERGE.
HISTORICAL SUMMARY. 11

along the banks of the river at various points, ,is records of the stampede of 

white prospectors to the district in 1898. At Riley Camp, just above the mouth 

of Pick River, one white man was met who had been in the vicinity since the 

previous winter. He was out of provisions and living upon .fish without salt 

while waiting for the return of the river steamboat, .which had wintered in this 

neighborhood during several seasons. At the mouth of Black River the party 

passed a well-equipped, prospecting outfit with twelve pack horses, which had been 

brought overland from Nome during the .summer. The men in charge expected 

to spend the winter on either the Kowak or the Noatak River. They were well 

supplied with provisions and were expecting more by way of the river within a 

few days. On the next day a small sailboat was passed above the mouth of the 

Amblev, in charge of three white men and having on board two or three tons of 

supplies.

Several days were spent on the lower course of the Ambler. The journey 

down the main stream was resumed on August 26, and was continued without 

other interruption than the not always welcome hospitality of the natives until 

Hptham Inlet'was reached, on the 3d of September. The party was stormbound 

the next day just south of Pipe Spit, in the upper end of the inlet, but reached 

the Quaker mission at Kikitaruk on September 5, where a few additional supplies 

were purchased before the run down Kotzebuc Sound was resumed on the 7th. 

The party was again stormbound on the 10th and llth of September on Choris 

Peninsula, but reached Chamisso Island on the 12th and crossed to the mainland 

north of Spafarief Bay September 13, reaching Deering, the new mining camp 

at the mouth of the Ipnichuk River, September 15. Passage on a small schooner 

was secured on the 19th. This vessel, the Deering, with its load of 75 passengers 

in the accommodations intended for 15, did not' reach Nome until the 29th of September, the time required by the voyage being a period of great discomfort through 

storm and sickness. On the 6th of October the party embarked on the steamship 

St. Pcml for Seattle, arriving on the 17th.

HISTORICAL SUMMARY.

The region under consideration first became definitely known to Europeans 

through the voyage of Lieut. Otto von Kotzebue, a German in the Russian service, who, while in command of the brig IZurifc, discovered Kotzebue Sound, on 

the 1st of August, 1816. re During the early part of the month he cruised about 

in the sound, at first with the idea that it would lead him into the coveted northeast passage to the Atlantic. He soon learned, however, that the body of water 

which he had discovered was closed on the east, and contented himself with mapping its principal features. A number of the names which he applied are still

a Voyage o( Discovery into the South Sea mid Bering Straits, 1815-1818, by Lieut,. Otto von Kotzebue.
12 FORT HAMLIN TO KOTZEBUE SOWD, ALASKA.

in use on the charts. Among them arc Chamisso Island, JEschscholtz Bay, Cape 

Deceit, Asses Ears, Devil Mountain, Capes Krusenstern and Espenberg, and 

Goodhope Bay.

Ten years after Kotzebue's discovery Capt. F. W. Beechey," commanding 

the Blossom,, entered the sound in furtherance of his work of charting the northwest coast of America. He added considerably to the knowledge of Kotzebue 

Sound and produced a chart which has been the basis of all subsequent maps of 

the region. He discovered and named the Buckland River, in September, 1826, 

and examined and chartered the shores of Spafaricf Bay during the same month. 

He examined the ice cliff's off Elephant Point, which had been described by 

Kotzebue, and mentions those of Cape Blossom. Some geologic notes of value 

are given by him, in which he describes the schistose scries outcropping in the 

neighborhood of Cape Deceit as talc slates and limestones, and mentions the 

occurrence of vesicular olivine lava along the shores of Goodhope . Bay. Mr. 

Elson, of the .Blossom, explored Hotham Inlet, which Kotzebue had failed to note, 

and reported that it was 30 or 40 miles in length and that the water at its upper 

end was fresh.

The Blossom left Kotzebue Sound on October 13, 1826. The work along 

the shore and northward not being completed this year, Becchey returned the 

following season, but made no important additions to his work of the previous 

summer.

Some of the best geographic work which has been done in the northern 

portion of North America was accomplished in connection with the series of relief 

expeditions sent out by the British and other governments in- search of Sir John 

Franklin, who made an unsuccessful attempt to discover a northwest passage. 

The greater part of this work was accomplished in the region near Hudson Bay, 

but through some of the expeditions on the west coast of the continent substantial 

contributions were made to our knowledge of the geography of the coast in the 

vicinity of Bering Strait.

On the 9th of September, 1849, Capt. Henry Kellett, commanding H. M. S. 

Herald, at that time in Kotzebue Sound, started with several boats' crews to 

visit the natives reported to live some distance up, the Buckland River. Captain 

Kellett himself ascended the stream about 30 miles, until a rock obstruction 

which prevented the passage of the heavier boats was encountered. He then 

returned and Commander Moore, of the Plover, and Lieutenant Maguire, of the 

Herald, with lighter boats ascended about 30 miles farther, passing several rapids 

en route. These officers reported that the river contained several obstructions 

within the 60 miles explored by them, and at the head of this stretch a strong

"Narrative of a Voyage to the Pacific and BeerinpS Strait, by Capt. F. W. Beechey.
HISTORICAL SUMMARY. 13

rapid, half a mile in length, through which they could not pass. Pine [spruce] 

trees were reported as occurring sparingly iu the Buckland Valley, and an account 

is also given of the presence of fine basaltic columns along the river/'

The Plover, under Commander Moore, spent the winter of 1849-50 in Kotzebue Sound, and Lieutenant Pirn was detached from the .Herald to remain with 

her. During the winter various minor expeditions were undertaken by the officers and men, the object being in most cases to ascertain the truth of native 

rumors to the effect that white men who might belong to the missing expedition 

had been seen in the interior. In the course of these trips Hotham Inlet and 

the Spafarief [Keewalik] River were visited and mapped in part.

The two most important trips made this winter were those of Lieutenant 

Pirn and Mr. Simpson. Lieutenant Pirn* started overland on the 4th of March 

by way of the Spafarief River to St. Michael, which he reached, after many hardships, on the 6th of April. He returned to the ship on April 29. His journal 

gives a circumstantial account of the country which -he traversed, but no chart 

of the route was prepared. Mr. John Simpson c left the vessel, which at the 

time was anchored on the east side of Choris Peninsula, on the 13th of May • 

with dogs and sledges, and returned to the ship on the 25th. In the interim he 

explored the head of Hotham Inlet and Selawik Lake, to the latter of which 

he gave the native name 'of the river emptying into it. He mapped the shores 

of the lake, which is about 5 miles wide and 15 miles long, and ascended the 

Selawik River for a mile and a half, describing its valley and the hills to the 

north and south of it, which he could see plainly from a small eminence. Simpson's account is the first mention in literature of the Kowak River, which he 

called Kowuk. He located the eastern and largest outlet of this stream, which he 

described as 400 yards in width and having a current of 2 miles per hour. He 

traced its course for many miles by its border of tall "pines," and was informed 

by natives of the existence of .a village seven days' journey up the stream. A 

map embodying the results of his geographic observations accompanies 'his paper.

Commander Moore was promoted during the summer of 1852 and relieved of 

command of the Plover, to which Commander Maguire was assigned, and the 

vessel was then ordered to Point Barrow, where she spent the two succeeding 

winters. While stationed here, short expeditions were made along the coast east 

and west, and an expedition into the interior to a point "40 miles south and 38 

miles west of Point Barrow. Again the most important contribution to the

u Narrative of proceedings of Captain Kellett, of H. M. S. Herald, and Commander Moore and Lieutenant Pulleii, 

of If. M. 8. Pluuer: Groat Britain, Parliamentary Papers, session of 1854-55, vol. 35.

f> Voyage of the Herald, by Berthold Seaman.

o Journal of Mr. John Simpson, surgeon of H. M. S. I'loocr, in command of a detaehed party to the eastern 

head of Hotham Inlet in May, 1850: Great Britain, Parliamentary Papers, session of Feb. 3 to July 1, 1852, vol. 50.
14 PORT HAMXIN TO KOTZEBLTE SOUND, ALASKA.

ideograph y of the region was made by Mr. Simpjson, who was attached to the 

Plover in the capacity of surgeon." In this paper Mr. Simpson described the 

natives from Cape Prince of Wales north and east to the mouth of the Colville, 

chiefly from data gathered at Point Barrow, and assembled information which he 

obtained from these natives on a map, on which the courses of the Noatak, the 

Kowak, the Selawik, the Colville, and other streams are shown with much 

fidelity.

Commander Trollope, of H. M. S. Rattlesnake^ started from Port Clarence, 

where the Rattlesnake was wintering, on the 9th of January, 1854, on a sledging 

trip to Cape Prince of Wales, which he reached on the 18th of the same month. 

His object was to communicate, if possible, across the strait with Siberia. No 

maps resulted from this trip, but interesting notes are given about the natives. 

William R; Hobson, mate of the Rattlesnake,* made a difficult journey overland 

from the ship to Chamisso Island, in Kotzebue Sound. He started on the 9th of 

February and returned on the 27th of March, having traveled in forty-seven days 

a distance of 560 miles (estimated). This trip was the more remarkable because 

for the greater part of the time he had to depend for food on the natives 

encountered and the game secured, and even now, under .modern conditions, with 

abundance of road houses along the route, it tests the endurance of the hardiest 

prospector. Mr. Hobson unfortunately prepared no maps of the route traversed, 

although he gives abundant notes concerning the country and the natives.

With the close of this long series of relief expeditions, work of an exploratory character in the region of Kotzebue Sound ceased for many years. The 

Western Union telegraph expeditions passed a short distance to the south of the 

area under consideration, but made no contributions to Kotzebue Sound geography.

In the years 1884-1886, however, a series of exploratory expeditions along 

the Kowak Valley were carried out by Lieut. George M. Stoney, of the United 

States Navy, and by Lieut. J. C. Cantwell, of the Kevenue-Marine Service.

Lieutenant Stoney's first visit d was made in the Corwm in 1883 as a member 

of an expedition sent out in connection with the Jeannette relief. The Corwin 

left him at the mouth of Hotham Inlet with one white companion and seven days' 

provisions. He spent fifteen days in the country and reached the head of the 

delta 45 miles from the mouth of the river.

The next year, after giving an account of his discoveries and requesting 

permission to continue the work, he returned in the schooner Tfnalaska and

a Observations on tile Western Eskimo, and the country tlioy inhabit, by Mr. John Simpson, surgeon, K. N. 

H. M. S. Plover: Great Britain, Parliamentary Papers, session of 1S54-55, vol. 35. 

* Great Britain, Parliamentary Papers, session of 1854-56, vol. 35. 

a Ibid. 

dNaval Explorations in Alaska, by Lieut. Georgu M. Stoney, 0. S. Navy, 1900.
U. S. GEOLOGICAL SURVEY PROFESSIONAL PAPER NO. 10 PL. IV

A, LOWER END OF KOWAK RIVER GORGE.

li. LOOKING TOWARD HEAD OF WALKER LAKE FROM 2 MILES BELOW ITS WESTERN END. 

In the background are mountains of schist and limestone.
HISTORICAL SUMMARY. 15

undertook the exploration of the Kowak Eiver with a steam cutter and a native 

skin boat of 6 tons' capacity. After ascending about 275 miles, the current 

became too strong for the cutter, and it was left behind. The journey was continued, however, in the skin boat, until the Soolookpowuktoark Kiver (outlet of 

Lake Sclby) was reached. Stoncjr visited the lake drained by this stream and 

then returned down the Kowak to Hothani Inlet. He sent Ensign Purccll to 

explore Selawik Lake and another east of it, which was called the Inland lake. 

This done, the party returned to San Francisco. During the next summer, 1886, 

Lieutenant Storiey went again to the Kowak, established winter quarters about 

250 miles up that stream, at Fort Cosmos, and during the following winter parties 

conducted cither by himself personalty or by his officers carried out extensive 

explorations in the surrounding country. The principal of these explorations 

were by way of the Ambler 'Kiver to Mmyuk on the Noatak,- up the Kowak 

through a pass near its head to the Alien, which belongs to the Koyukuk system, 

and northward from its source to Chandlar Lake, and southward to the middle 

course of the Selawik. These three trips were conducted by Lieutenant Stoney 

in person. Besides these, Ensign Howard, under Lieutenant Stoney's direction, 

made a trip to Point Barrow in the spring by way of the Upper Colville and 

Chipp rivers, which he mapped en route; and Assistant Engineer Zanc journeyed 

to St. Michael by way of the Pah, Ko3rukuk, and Yukon rivers. These combined expeditious resulted in the acquisition of definite geographic knowledge of 

this territory, which before this had been practically unknown.

Lieut. John C. Cantwell/' of the Revenue-Marine Service, entered one of the 

mouths of the Kowak July 10, 1884, and explored the river to a point some 

distance beyond the mouth of the Black. A small steam launch and a skin boat 

were used. The launch became disabled, and the party returned without reaching 

the large lakes in which the river was reported to rise.

The second expedition in command of Lieutenant Cantwell, for the exploration of the Kowak, left the Corwin on July 2, 1885.* Lieutenant Cantwell used, 

as in the previous year, a steam launch and a skin boat, the launch having been 

specially prepared for the work. On the 16th of July he reached the lower 

rapids of the Kowak, which he passed after an accident which nearly proved 

fatal to one of the natives who accompanied him, and on the 21st reached the 

outlet of Walker Lake.' This he ascended as far as the rapids. A couple of 

days were spent in the neighborhood of the lower cud of the lake, which was 

mapped from the top of one of the neighboring peaks; then a short portage was 

made to the Kowak above the mouth of the Kichaiakaka. He reported the

"Report of the cruise oE the Revenue-Marine steamer Corwin in the Arctic Ocean in tlie year 1884. 

t> Exploration oE the Kowak River, Alaska, by Lieut. J. C. Cantwell: Report ol cruise of the revenue steamer Corwin 

in the Arctic Ocean in 1885, pp. 21-52'.
16 FORT HAML1N TO KOTZKBUB SOUND,-ALASKA.

Kowak to be here a small stream 50 yards wide and 1 foot deep. Having 

completed his explorations on the upper river, he returned to his launch, which 

had been left below the mouth of the Pah, and on the 27th rejoined the steamer. 

An expedition under Engineer McLenegan, of the. Corwin, had been carried out 

at the same time on the Noatak River. Maps accompany the reports, which give 

the results of the geographic work in the valleys of the two streams.

The. work of Lieutenants Stoney and Cantwcll, who were pioneers in this 

region, north of the Arctic circle, is most valuable, and to the workers themselves 

a maximum of credit is due, since they were penetrating territory about which 

nothing was known except from inaccurate native accounts, so that no adequate 

provision could be made for meeting conditions encountered.

An historical sketch of the Kotzebue Sound region would not be complete 

without mention' of the remarkable journey of Lieutenants Jarvis and Bertholf, 

Dr. Call, of the revenue cutter jBear, and W. T. Lopp, missionary at Cape 

Prince of Wales, in connection with the expedition for the relief of the whalers 

imprisoned at Point Barrow in the winter of 1897-98.° A midwinter journey of 

about 1,500 miles was made from the coast north of Bristol Bay to Point Bar-row, 

and several hundred reindeer intended for food for the imprisoned whalers were 

driven from the region about Port Clarence..

In 1898 the Kowak Kivcr Valley was the scene of a stampede, brought about 

by reports to the effect that gold in paying amounts existed in the valley of the 

river. Mr. Mcllwaine^ reports that about 1,200 people took part in that stampede, and gives in popular form a brief account of the movement, its hardships 

and disappointments. Of the 1,200 people who reached Kotzebue Sound, about 

8QO spent the winter of 1898-99 on the Kowak, but few indications of the presence of gold were found. In the spring practically all the prospectors departed, 

the majority went down the stream and out of the region by way of Kotzebue 

Sound, but a few went up the river to the passes at its source and then down 

the Koyukuk River. Since that time a very few white men have been on the 

stream each summer, and the river steamer John Riley, commanded by Captain 

Coogan, has spent two winters there, and again wintered in the neighborhood 

of Black River during the season of 1901-2.

The Yukon is now, and within historical times has been, the highway 

followed by the trader and the explorer in the interior; hence its geography 

became known early in the history of interior work. Lieutenant Zagoskin's map 

of the lower river, prepared about 1843, extends up to a short distance above 

Nulato. The Western Union Telegraph Company's map of 1869 is based in 

part upon it. Mr. Whymper's, Dr. Dall's, and Captain Raymond's maps of

a Report of the cruise of the revenue cutter Hear and the overland expedition, 1897-98. 

6 The Truth about Alaska, by Eugene Mcllwaine.
HISTORICAL SUMMARY. 17

the Yukon below Fort Yukon followed in rapid succession, each map being a distinct 

improvement upon its predecessor. The astronomic positions as determined 'by 

Captain Raymond are still accepted as the basis for the charts of this part of 

the Territory. In addition to their contributions to geography Dr. Dall and 

Robert Kennicott also added notably to our knowledge of the natural history and 

ethnology of the Yukon Basin. Among later geographers, Lieutenant Schwatka 

and Mr. Homan are to be mentioned, Roman's survey of the Yukon, made in 

1883, being the basis of the present maps of the river. Lieut. H. T. Alien,0 in 

1885, after ascending the Copper River and descending the Tanana, made the overland trip from a point 6 miles below Nuklukayet on the Yukon to the junction of 

the Mentanontli and Kanuti rivers. He was accompanied by one soldier, Fickett, 

and 7 natives, and the journey was made in a little more than six days. From 

the mouth of the Mentanontli he descended the Kanuti River and continued his 

work up the Koyukuk to the mouth of the Totsenbet River. At this point he 

turned back, drifted down the Koyukuk, and reached Nulato on the 21st of 

August, 1885, having contributed to the world, as a result of his remarkable 

work this summer, the first definite knowledge of the basin of the Koyukuk as 

well as of the Tanana and Copper.

In 1889 Professor Russell* accompanied the Coast and Geodetic Survey 

parties under McGrath and Turner, whose object was to establish on the 

Porcupine and Yukon rivers the crossing of the one hundred and forty-first 

meridian, the international boundary line. The trip involved the ascent of the 

Yukon from St. Michael to Lake Lindeman, and while opportunities for 

detailed geologic stud}' were limited, a number of interesting and suggestive 

notes of a general nature resulted.

In 1896 Messrs. Spurr, Goodrich, and Schrader, of the United States 

Geological Survey, descended the Yukon, and in the report 0 which followed 

is found the first comprehensive study of the geology and of the physiographic 

history of the American Yukon Basin.

In 1899 F. C. Schrader a and T. G. Gcrdine ascended the Chandlar River, 

portaged from near its head to Robert Creek, one of the upper tributaries 

of the Koyukuk, and descended the latter stream to its mouth. Previous to 

this the Chandlar was practically unknown, and but little accurate information 

was available concerning the Koyukuk beyond the point reached by Lieutenant

"Report of a military reconnaissance in Alaska, made in 1885 by Lieut. Henry T. Alien, U. S. Cavalry.

& Notes on the surface geology of Alaska, by Israel C. Russell: Bull. Geol. Soe. America, Vol. I, pp.'99-162.

"Geology of the Yukon gold district; Alaska, by J. E. Spurr: Eighteenth Ann. Kept. U. S. Geol. Survey, Pt. Ill, 

pp. 87-392. I

eJ Preliminary report on a reconnaissance along the Chandlar and Koyukuk rivers, Alaska, in 1899, by F. C. Schrader: 

Twenty-first Ann. Kept. U. S. Geol. Survey, Pt, II, pp. 441^186.

9501—No. 10—02——2
18 FOKT HAMLtN TO KOTZEBUE SOUND, ALASKA.

Alien in 1885. The result of this reconnaissance appears in. a complete topographic map of the field traversed, with comprehensive data on the geology, 

economy, and mining developments in the drainage basins of both the Chandlar 

and Koyukuk.

Although the route from the Yukon to the Koyukuk by way of the Dall 

River has been known and used for a number of years by prospectors, and the 

headwaters at least of the Kanuti River have been visited by them, no maps of 

either stream were available, and no accurate information concerning' them was 

obtainable previous to the year 1901.

The valley of the Alien has always been one of the lines of travel followed 

by the Kowak Indians when journeying to the Koyukuk in winter for purposes 

of trade, and several of the prospectors who wintered in 1898-99 on the Kowak 

came out to the Yukon by this route, but no maps had been prepared of it 

previous to our work there.

COUST1J1TIOXS AUSTD METHODS OF WORK.

Exploring expeditions in high latitudes, which are carried on only in the 

summer, with no provision for wintering, are limited in time, and hence, where 

the extent of territory covered is considerable, in the present ease between 1,100 

and 1,200 miles, certain sacrifices must be made to the paramount necessity of 

gaining ground. Through difficult regions all the energies of the scientific, as 

well as of the other members of the party, are of necessity often devoted to 

overcoming the physical obstacles encountered. •

Work under these conditions can not be uniform in quality. Observations 

made while the observer is struggling ahead at the end of a tracking line, or 

bending all his energies to the prevention of disaster in the wild waters of a 

gorge, or perhaps zigzagging up a 1,000-foot climb with 90 pounds on his back, 

arc not always as complete as is desirable. Tt is hoped, however, that such conditions have not resulted in other inaccuracy than that due to incompleteness.

Geologic observations were for long stretches confined to the line of traverse, 

but wherever it was possible these were supplemented by side trips. Generally a 

rough compass traverse was maintained upon which observations were recorded 

directly; but at times when' the geologist and topographer were together, references were placed upon the topographer's traverse and the geologic observations 

recorded with corresponding references. Collections were of course made for 

comparative study later, and information was gleaned from all possible sources.

For transportation Peterboro canoes were used, since the route lay along 

waterways or over portages where these light boats could be carried. Two were 

used from Fort Yukon .to Bergman, and four from Bergman to Kotzcbue Sound,
CONDITIONS AND METHODS OF WORK. 19

The canoes were propelled by oars, sails, or paddles, or by tracking or poling-, as 

conditions varied.

Some photographic records were secured, although these are not as numerous 

nor complete as was desired because of the damage to instruments by water.

For temperature observations two standard thermometers were depended 

upon chiefly. A minimum thermometer was used during the early part of the 

season, but later was broken. The maximum was of little use because camp was 

moved practically every day, and no records could be secured from the instrument 

while it was packed in a moving canoe.

Plants were collected when conditions permitted and dried with such care, as 

was possible, and brief notes on their distribution were recorded at the same 

time.

Distances wore determined in all cases by micrometer and stadia measurements and by plane-table triangulation. A continuous line was maintained from 

Fort Yukon on the Yukon River, to the mining village of Deering on the south 

shore of Kotzebue Sound. The total distance thus traversed, including two side 

trips, one to the head of Walker Lake and the other for a short distance up the 

Ambler River, was 1,169 miles. This involved two portages, one from the head 

of the Dall River to the head of the Kanuti River, a distance of 18 miles over a 

divide 2,500 feet high, and the other from the head of Helpmejack Creek to the 

upper course of the Kichaiakaka, a distance of 5i miles, over an elevation of 

300 feet.

Elevations were determined by vertical angles, and the results of these determinations arc shown on the maps by contours. Sights in some instances were long, 

making exact work impossible, but the error can not in any case be great. The 

elevation of Fort Yukon was assumed as a starting point to be 500 feet above mean 

sea level. This assumption was based in part npon data furnished by ex-Governor 

Ogilvie, of the Yukon Territory, and in part on the slope of the river from 

Fort Yukon to Fort Hamlin, a distance of 190 miles. Mr. Ogilvie, after a series 

of synchronous barometric readings, carried on at the point where the Canadian 

and United States boundary line crosses the Yukon River and at Lake Labcrge, 

deduced the slope of the Upper Yukon as 2.44 feet per mile, and the elevation 

of Dawson as 1,040 feet. The slope of the Yukon between Fort Yukon and Fort 

Hamlin is approximately .9 feet per mile. Assuming the mean of these two 

results as the slope between Dawson and Fort, Yukon, the elevation of Fort 

Yukon becomes 480 feet- Vertical angles carried from this assumed elevation as 

a starting point check approximately with sea level at the mouth of the Kowak 

River.
20 FORT HAMLIN TO K.OTZEBUE SOUND, ALASKA.

Thirty-six azimuth observations were made at points distributed all along 

the route, and the magnetic declination was determined at each azimuth station.

The plane-table and stadia work was checked by 19 latitude observations, 14 

of which are solar and the remaining 5 made on Polaris.

The longitude of Fort Yukon, as determined by Captain Raymond, was 

accepted as a starting point. The closure on Captain Beechey's position for 

Chamisso Island, as corrected by T. G. Gerdine, was 3£ miles long. This was 

distributed between extremes in proportion to the longitudinal distance.

GTCNEKATj GEOGRAPHY.

The most important physical feature of that portion of Alaska lying north of 

the Yukon is a great mountain range extending from the Arctic coast just north of 

Kotzebue Sound east and northeast to the international boundary in the region 

between the Porcupine River and the Arctic Ocean. To this range, whose central 

portion he could see from Lookout Mountain on the middle Koyukuk, Lieutenant 

Alien, in 1885, applied the name Endicott Mountains. These mountains extend 

from the vicinity of the Mulgrave Hills east and northeast to Demarcation Point 

and the British Mountains in the vicinity of the international boundary.

The mountains have a north-south width of 30 or 40 miles. At their western 

end they are narrow and comparatively low, reaching heights of 3,000 or 4,000 

feet, but near the head of the Kowak, peaks reach altitudes of 6,000 feet, and in 

the vicinity of the Totsenbet River portage and eastward to the boundary 7,000 

feet is not unusual. The mountain belt is broader, too, toward the east, whore 

it may have a maximum north-south extension of 100 miles. In Canadian territory it bends to the south near the Mackenzie River, and is considered a continuation of the Canadian Rockies.

Between this mountain belt and the Arctic Ocean there is a triangular area 

of relatively low country, with Point Barrow forming its northern angle. On its 

coastward side this region is a true coastal plain, and adjacent to the mountains 

it is a low, rolling plateau with an elevation of between 1,000 and 2,000 feet above 

sea level.

As might be expected, the mountain range forms a barrier between regions of 

strong contrast, both in meteorologic conditions and in floral and faunal life. 

North of it the cold Arctic storms, with snowfall and freezing temperatures, 

may be expected at any time throughout the year; south of it the summers are 

hot and bright, although short, and from two to three months of midsummer 

are free from snows and low temperatures. North of the range the country is 

timberless; south of it trees are more or less abundant in the river valleys.
GEOGEAPHT. , 21

Physically, the belt of country lying between the Endicott Mountains and 

the Yukon is much more diverse, as well as more extensive, than that to the 

north of the mountains. More or less isolated groups and ranges reach in 

exceptional cases altitudes of over 5,000 feet. Generally, however, the ridges 

have altitudes between 1,000 and 3,000 feet and are separated by river valleys 

which here and there open out into broad flats, comparable, except in extent, 

to the well-known basin of the Yukon, whose center is in the vicinity of the 

mouth of the Porcupine River.

The most important streams rise, as is to be expected, in the Endicott 

Mountains, which form a general divide between the Arctic drainage proper and 

that of Bering Sea and Kotzebue Sound. The largest of these rivers is the 

Koyukuk. This is about 700 miles in length and, by its numerous important 

northern tributaries, among which may be mentioned the Dietrich, Totsenbet, and 

Alien rivers, drains thei southern slopes of the Endicott Mountains, between the 

meridians of 149° and 154° west longitude. East of the one hundred and fiftyfourth meridian the southern slopes arc drained by the Chandlar and Porcupine 

rivers, and west of the one hundredth and forty-ninth meridian by the Kowak 

and its branches. The Noatak River, rising near the one hundredth and fiftyfifth meridian, in a high mountain group, whose drainage is shared by the 

Kowak, Alashuk, Colville, and Noatak," flows west along the sixty-eighth parallel 

to within 40 or 50 miles of the Arctic coast, then turns south through the 

range and empties into Kotzebue Sound near the entrance to Hotham Inlet. 

The position of the Colville on the north slope of the Endicott Range corresponds 

to that of the Koyukuk, opposite it, on the south slope, and its drainage basin is 

almost as extensive. It enters the Arctic about midway between Point Barrow 

and the international boundary.

East of the Colville the streams which reach the Arctic coast within United 

States territory are small, Turner River, perhaps 150 miles in length, being the 

largest known. West of the Colville, however, several streams flow northward, 

the Chipp, the Meade, the Otukah, and the Pitmegea being the most important.

LOCAL GEOGRAPHY AKD KOTJTES.

DALL RIVER.

The Dall River joins the Yukon 9 miles above Fort Hamlin, near the western 

edge of the great Yukon Flats, the lower 50 or 60 miles, about half the length, 

of Dall River lying within these, although near their western limit. The country 

is utterly devoid of relief and contains a great number of sloughs and ponds, 

many of them old and abandoned courses of the Dall and its tributaries, so that
22 ' FOBT HAMLIN TO KOTZEB0E SOUND, ALASKA.

during periods of high water the entire area, is flooded arid the course of the 

river is marked only as a lane through the spruces and willows. At such times 

it may be difficult to find land areas of sufficient size for camping- purposes, and 

transportation by Other means than boats is out of the question.

For about 25 miles below Dall City the river, although not in the Yukon 

Flats proper, wanders back and forth across a rather broad valley, bounded at 

some distance on either side by hills which approach the river and increase in 

height toward its source. Near the upper end of this stretch a branch' almost 

equal in volume to the main stream joins the latter from the north. Dall City, 

so called, consists of two or three abandoned prospectors' cabins, and lies at the 

point where Dall River is crossed by the overland trail, at the .entrance to the 

canyon-like upper portion of the valley. Our party did not traverse this canyon, 

since it is impassable for small boats, as it has a fall of nearly 1,000 feet in 

an air-line distance of less than 10 miles.

The general divide between the Dall River and the Koyukuk stands at between 

3,000 and 3,500 feet above tide, the gap at the head of the Dall River being cut 

1,500 feet below this level. The hills immediately to the north of the Dall River 

are broad, smooth, rounded ridges, standing above timber line, and very generally 

devoid of all vegetable growth except hardy lichens. An area of much more 

rugged forms, but standing at approximately the same elevation, lies north and 

west of the portage in the direction of Fish Creek and Jim River.

A conspicuous valley leads northeastward from a point north of Dall City and 

is probably drained by the Hosiana or Swift River, which empties into the Yukon 

between the Dall and the Chandlar.

KANUTI RIVER.

The Kanuti River is approximately 200 miles long, and within that distance 

its valley presents great physical diversity. It heads in the same mountains whose 

northern slopes are drained by Fish Creek and Jim River, but within a few miles of 

its source it enters a relatively flat basin, 9 or 10 miles long and half as wide, which 

contains a number of small lakes and ponds, although standing at an elevation of 

between 1,200 and 1,400 feet. This basin, like all similar topographic features in 

the north, whatever their relation to sea level, is a marsh, covered with the usual 

tundra growth. At its lower end, in longitude 150° 45' west, the river enters a 

restricted valley, so steep walled in places as to deserve to be called a canyon and 

having a maximum depth of 2,000 feet. The gorge-like character prevails for 

about 30 miles, and through much of this portion the river can scarcely be called 

navigable, since it is a succession of rapids, and the channel throughout is obstructed 

by bowlders of all sizes. Below this stretch the valley gradually broadens, and
GEOGBAPHY. 23

near the catnp of July 12 is an extensive flat, which is perhaps a part of the broad 

basin in which the lower portion of the South Fork of the Koyukuk flows.

Within this lower basin the Kanuti River receives a large tributary from the 

south in the direction of the sources of the Tozi and Melozi.

About 25 miles above its mouth the river plunges into a second canyon about 10 

miles long and 500 feet in depth. This is the most beautiful section of the river; 

the stream is swift, but free from dangerous rapids, and the bluffs of slate and 

sandstone rise sheer from the water to a height of several hundred- feet. Ten 

miles above the mouth it receives the waters of the Mentanoutli, descended by 

Lieutenant Alien in 1885 after his overland journey from the Yukon.

The hills which border this lower section of the Kanuti River and adjacent parts 

of the Koyukuk are seldom more than 1,500 feet in height, are not excessively 

steep, and are well timbered.

ROUTES VIA BALL AND KANUTI RIVERS.

The route followed by the Geological Survey party during the summer of 

1901—i. e., up the Dall to Dall City, across the portage to the head of the Kanuti 

River, and down the latter stream to the Koyukuk—is not a practicable one for 

parties traveling in boats, because the portage from the Dall to the Kanuti is 

long (18 miles) and arduous, involving a climb of 2,500 feet, and the canyon of the 

Kanuti River,'nearly 30 miles in length, is a succession of rapids through which 

boats must be lined with constant risk of loss.

A trail often followed by packers in summer leaves the Dall at its mouth, 

crosses the flats westward to the hills, and follows those to Dall City, whence the 

route coincides with the Kanuti River portage route as far as the divide at the 

head of the latter stream. At this point those bound for the Koyukuk turn to 

the north along a ridge separating the Swift River from the Kanuti River, but the 

trail above timber line is not recognizable. That portion of the route lying between 

the mouth of the Dall River and the hills is often impassable on account of high 

water, and pack trains may be delayed for two or three weeks waiting for the 

water to subside, as was the case in June, 1901. This difficulty may be avoided by 

landing opposite Fort Hanilin, 8 or 9 miles below the Dall River, whence high land, 

rising from the, banks of the Yukon, can be followed directly to Dall City.

A winter route to the Koyukuk lies directly up the Dall to its source; then 

by a low gap at its head, which can not be reached by boats in summer because 

of rough water, to the upper basin of the Kanuti River. From the lower end of 

this basin Fish Creek is reached by another low pass and can be descended to the 

South Fork of the Koyukuk. The traveler over this route always is within 

reach of timber and the shelter and fuel which it affords.
24 FORT HAMLIN TO KOTZEBUE SOUND, ALASKA.

ALLEN RIVER.

The type of topography which prevails along the lower Kanuti River and 

adjacent parts of the Koyukuk Valley continues north of the Koyukuk for many 

miles along the valley of the Alien. The lower valley of this' stream, above the 

more extensive flats immediately adjacent to its mouth, is 5 to 10 miles wide and 

bordered by rounded hills, usually low, but reaching elevations of 2,000 to 2,500 

feet in a group north and east of Siruk Creek.

Below the, mouth of Helpmejack Creek the' Alien receives no important 

branches. The Siruk, a small stream entering from the south, and the Sevenuka, 

of about equal volume, from the north, are the only tributaries worthy of mention.

Halfway between Siruk and Helpmejack creeks a low belt of country extends 

through from the Alien to the Kowak by way of the upper Hogatza and Norutak 

Lake, and is followed as a winter route by natives traveling from one stream to the 

other.

A short distance above Helpmojack Creek Malcmut Creek enters the Alien 

from the east, and its valley is likewise followed by natives in their journeys from 

the head of the Kowak or the middle course of the Alien to the Totsenbet River, 

on their hunting excursions. This stream flows west along the southern base of 

the Endicott Mountains, and the pass at its head to the east is reported to be 

low.

Near the head of the Alien the natives report a puss leading to the upper 

Noatak, but used only in winter. It seems to be too high and too long for 

summer use.

Helpmejack Creek enters the Alien Valley through a canyon-like north-south 

valley, conspicuous for many miles below its outlet on the Alien. Farther up 

the valley of Helpmejack Creek joins a wider east-west valley, which extends 

through from the Kowak to the Alien and is occupied by the Kichaiakaka, 

Helpmejack Creek, and the pass between these two. This pass was crossed by 

Lieutenant Stoney in the winter of 1886 in his trip from Fort Cosmos to Chandlar 

Lake.

These passes and the valley in which they lie are, like Malemut Creek, 

situated along the southern edge of the Endicott Mountains, which here form u 

rugged tract of country 30 or 40 miles broad. One high, rough group, similar 

to but less elevated than the main range, lies to the south of this line and is 

bisected by the valley of lower Helpmejack Creek, but in general the mountains 

to the south are conspicuously smoother and lower than those on the north.
GEOGRAPHY. . 25 

KOWAK RIVER.

The Kowak heads north of the sixty-seventh parallel and west of the one 

hundred and fifty-fourth meridian in a hig-h group, which is reported to be the 

source of branches of the Alien, the Colville, and the Noatak. At the mouth 

of the Kichaiakaka it is 125 feet wide, with a depth of 6 or 8 feet; but a 

short distance above, Lieutenant Cantwell reports that it becomes very shallow, 

and, according to the natives, it breaks up into several branches, all of which 

rise within a short distance. Near the head of the river the valley is 3 miles or 

more in width, with comparatively level floor. It broadens somewhat below 

Walker Lake, but contracts again in the vicinity of the lower gorge, where its 

general course changes from south' to west. Several lakes of importance are 

drained by its upper waters. Chief of these is "Walker Lake, 14 miles long, but 

only about 2 miles broad at its lower and wider end. At its northern end it is 

but 1 mile in breadth, so that the lake is to be regarded as a water-filled portion 

of a stream valley scoured out and deepened by ice action.

The lake is bordered on both sides by precipitous mountains, which rise to 

heights of 3,000 or 4,000 feet. Southeast of it toward the mouth of .the Reed 

River the country becomes broken, the hills, which are from 1,000 to 4,000 feet 

in height, being separated by broad passes which are often not much above the 

general level of the streams. Such a pass exists from Nutavukti Lake to the Reed 

River, and others, probably somewhat higher, are reported to exist between the 

latter and Walker Lake.

Nutavukti Lake is less than half as extensive as Walker Lake, and is rudely 

crescent shaped. Its north and south shores are formed by relatively high hills, 

but the valley in which it is situated extends northwest and southeast far beyond the 

limits of the lake. A third lake, named Norutak, somewhat less extensive than 

either of the two described, lies between the lower gorge of the Kowak and the 

head of the Hogatza. It was seen from a distance only, and it could not be 

measured accurately.

West of the lower gorge the Kowak Valley broadens to a width of 10 or 20 

miles, and this width is maintained to about the one hundred and sixtieth meridian, 

where the valley suddenly contracts until it is only about 2 miles wide. From 

this point it gradually broadens again to the head of the delta, where it enters 

a great flat, extending from near the mouth of the Noatak to south of Selawik 

Lake. '

All along its middle course the Kowak receives abundant tributaries, the most 

important ones flowing out of the mountain ranges 'to the north of the stream. 

Among them may be mentioned the Reed River, at whose head are the hot springs, 

first visited by Ensign Reed, of Lieutenant Stoney's expedition. A number of cabins
26 FOET HAMLIN TO KOTZEBTJE SOUND, ALASKA.

were built here by white men during the winter of 1898-99. The upper Noatak is 

reported to be easily reached from this point in winter, and to be navigable by 

small boats where first seen, although natives report that falls exist below. About 

2 miles west of the Eeed River, Beaver Creek, a somewhat smaller stream, enters 

from the north, but no other important tributaries are received until the Indian 

village near the camp of August 17 is reached. This village is near the mouth 

of the outlet of Lake Sclby, a body of water probably 6 or 8 miles in length and 

situated 5 or 6 miles north of the Kowak. The northern end of the lake lies 

within the high mountains which form the valley wall. A very short portage from 

its head is reported by the natives to lead to Avaterat Lake, drained by Mauncluk 

River.

Eight or 10 miles below the outlet of Lake Sclby, Pah River, the most important of the southern tributaries of the Kowak, flows in from the south. The valley 

of this stream is a favorite highway for the Kowak natives in their winter visits to 

the Koyukuk. A summer portage between the head of the Pah and a Koyukuk 

tributary is reported to be about 35 miles long and to lie for the greater part 

through marshy flats, across which travel is exceedingly difficult. Western 

tributaries of the Pah drain the slopes of the Sheklukshuk Range, the highest 

group of mountains south of the Kowak.

The -Kogoluktuk River enters the Kowak from the north a few miles east of 

the one hundred and fifty-seventh meridian. It is one of the most important of the 

northern tributaries, and the pass at its head to the Noatak is reported by 

the natives to be one of the shortest and easiest leading to that river. Many 

rapids, however, make its navigation difficult. In the vicinity of Riley camp 

and below the Pick River, the Black River and Shingnek Creek join the main 

stream. They arc unimportant tributaries, however, and add little to the volume 

of the river.

The Ambler is the most important of the branches of the Kowak. It joins the 

latter near the one hundred and fifty-eighth meridian, after flowing from near the 

Noatak Valley southward through the Schwatka Mountains to a broad east-west 

valley, which it crosses diagonally about 25 miles above its mouth. The principal 

tributary of the Ambler has been called by Lieutenant Stoney the Redstone, 

because of the color of the rock debris which it brings.

The Hunt, Salmon, Reed, and Squirrel rivers all flow into the lower course 

of the Kowak from the north, and by way of the valleys of most of these streams 

lie routes followed by the natives to the Noatak or its tributaries.

Below the Squirrel River the Kowak begins to separate into a number of 

channels which finally expand into the maze of intricate sloughs which make up 

the delta of the stream. The principal of the delta channels, and the one usually
GEOGRAPHY.

followed by steamboats, is the southeastern branch, which enters Hothain Inlet at 

its head and near the outlet of Solawik Lake. There is, however, a shorter 

course, which leads to the inlet opposite Nimiuk Point. This channel also has 

been followed by the steamboat John lliley, and has in consequence been called 

the Riley Channel.

KOTZEBUE SOUND.

The long, slender peninsula separating Hotham Inlet from the main waters of 

Kotzebue Sound has but little relief; in the northern part, where it is broadest, 

heights of but 300 to 400 feet are reached. Long stretches of shore stand at 

about the level of extreme high tide, and the occasionally recurring shore 

bluffs of sand, clay, and frozen muds do not run generally more than 100 feet 

above mean tide level. Chovis Peninsula, the highest point of this long spit, has 

its summit 360 feet above the water. Along the southern shores of Kotzebue 

Sound low sea cliffs and flats alternate, the latter marking the outlets of streams. 

Rounded ridges and hills, sometimes reaching heights of 1,200 to 1,300 feet, but 

usually lower, extend inland and separate the wide, flat river valleys. The 

Kiwalik, Swan (Kugruk), Ipnechuck, and Goodhope rivers are the principal 

streams entering the sound from the south. The Buckland River, larger than 

any of these, flows into Eschscholtz Bay from the southeast.

TABLES OF DISTANCES.

/

The following tables give the distances between the principal points along the 

route, as determined by Mr. Reaburn:

I

Distances between Fort Yukon and Fort Hatnlin.

Locality.

Alaska Exploration Company's wood camp, No. 85, at foot of Beaver Slough..

Month of Ball River. ......................................................

Distance 

from 

Fort Yukon.

Miles. 

9

24

73

ios

118 

163

167

179J

184

193

Distance 

from 

Fort Hamlin.

Miles. 

184

169

120

85

75 

30

26

13|

9
FORT HAMLIN TO KOTZEBIJE SOUND, ALASKA.

Distances along Dall River.

Locality.

Mouth of Coal Creek ......................................................

Distance 

from mouth 

of river.

Miles. 

55

85

86

90

101J

Distance from 

summit.

Miles.

m

16i

15|

Hi

Distances along Kanuti River.

Locality.

Mouth of creek from southeast, which Jieads in a low divide against a branch 

of Dall River ............................................................

Lower end of big flat, where the river bends south and enters the canyons.. . .

Camp of July 6, in a prominent bend at mouth of a small creek from the west. .

Month of a large stream from the south, in canyon south side of mountain. . . .

Distance 

from summit.

Miles.

12

27

37 

. 46

60 

120

130

190

204

Distance 

from mouth 

of river.

Miles. 

197

192

177

167 

158

144 

84

74

14

Distances along the Koyukuk.

Locality.

Arctic City ...............................................................

i

-

Distance 

from mouth 

o! Kanuti 

River.

Wiles. 

*

4

14

Distance 

from mouth 

of Alien.

Ifiles. 

13J

10
GEOGRAPHY.

Distances along Alien River and Helpmejack Creek.

29

Mouth of Lake Creek

Locality.

-

Distance 

from mouth 

of river.

Miles. 

44

80

90

101

103

Distance from 

summit.

Mile*.

KQ

23

13

2

Distances along Kicliavukaka Creek and Kowak River.

Locality.

Pick River................. -......-.....-...--•-.-...---.-.-.-...-.-.....-.

Mouth of Tunutuk Creek ..................................................

Mouth of Hunt River. .....................................................

Distance 

from mouth 

of river.

Miles. 

373

366

365

362

357

349

342

331

329

319

318

285.5

285

279

265

255

246

242

227

225

223

217

211

204. 5

201.5

173

158

151

139

Distance from 

summit of 

portage.

Miles. 

3

10

11

14

19

27

34

45

47

57

58

90.5

91

97

111

121

130

134

149

151

153

159

165

171.5

174.5

203

218

225

237
30 FORT HAMLIN TO KOTZEBUE SODTSTD, ALASKA.

Distances along KichaiaTcaka Creek and Kowak River 'Continued.

Locality.

Mouth of Kauvet Creek .............................. ; , . . . . .............

Mouth of Kaliguricheark River. ............................ ...............

Distance 

from mouth 

of river.

Miles. 

125

1.14

111.5

109

97

68

Distance from 

summit of 

portage.

Miles. 

251

•262

264. 5

267

279

308

376

Distances on Flotham Inle.tfrom mouth of Kowak River to Quaker mission.

Locality.

Pipe Spit .................................................................

Distance 

from mouth 

of Kowak.

Miles. 

4.5

19

23

28

Distance from 

Quaker mission.

Miles. 

23.5

Q

5

Distances along the shore of Kotzebue Sound from Quaker mission to Deering.

Locality.

Cape ............................................... i.......... '...-.......

Decrinir

Distance 

from mission.

Jiffies. 

11.5

55

58

fiA

75

79

86

87

89

93

98

101

104.5

105

Distance from 

Deering.

Miles. 

no K

P»A

47

41

30

26

19

1 8

16

12

7

4

.5
FORT HAMLIN TO KOTZEBUE SOUND, ALASKA. 31

GENERAL GEOLOGY."

METAMORPHIC COMPLEX. 

GENERAL STATEMENT.

The geologists who have carried out studies in the interior of Alaska have 

almost without exception encountered and described near the base of the column 

a. complex of more or less schistose sediments, sometimes associated with igneous 

rocks of various types and relations. These schists they have subdivided in their 

map work according as they were able to carry out subdivisions in the area 

studied. Different phases of the schists have in all cases been recognized, and 

where these have not been represented on the map, it has been because the 

exigencies of reconnaissance work are such that only those relations and characters 

which are exhibited immediately adjacent to the line of traverse are determinable, 

and these may not give the evidence necessary for definite subdivision, or, if 

subdivisions are made at one point, for correlation of these with others elsewhere. 

The great distances usually covered in such work increase the uncertainty of 

correlations because of the changing character of most rock formations from place 

to place. In a series of highly altered rocks, where fossil evidence is not obtainable, a reconnaissance map in which fine subdivisions are attempted is necessarily 

only lithologic.

A general classification along broad lines which can be followed with approximate correctness, also lends itself better to the work of the future, which will 

necessarily be closer and more exact, and in which many formations now not 

recognized will be distinguished and their relations determined. Logically, the 

earlier work should be done so that with future developments the first great 

groups may be subdivided rather than entirely replaced, hence it is deemed better 

now to draw only general boundaries and to omit such subdivisions as would 

inevitably be discarded. , • •

Considerations of this sort have influenced the writer in grouping together a 

diverse complex of older rocks which probably include partial equivalents of Spurr's 

Birch Creek and Fortymile series,6 and of Brooks's Nome, Kuzitrin and perhaps of 

his Kigluaik rocks. e Schrader's Rapids schist and Lake quartzite-schist d may also 

be represented. The rocks described here are regarded as in a general way equivalent to those described by the writer in a previous paper as the Metamorphic 

series/ They present many of the same characteristics and general features,

u See footnote regarding geologic map, p. 49.

!>Geology of the Yukon golfl distriet: Eighteenth Ann. Rept. U. S. Geol. Survey, Part III, pp. 140-155. 

<! A Reconnaissance of Cape Nome and Adjacent Gold Fields oJ Seward Peninsula, Alaska, in 1900, pp. 27-31. 

cl Reconnaissance along Chandlar and Koyukuk rivers in 1899: Twenty-first Ann. Rept. U. S. Geol. Survey, Part Ht 

pp. 473-475.

e Reconnaissance in the Norton Bay Region, Alaska, in 1900, pp. 199-204.
32 FORT HAMLIN TO KOTZKBITE SOUND, ALASKA.

although exhibiting somewhat greater diversity lithologically. This is to be expected 

as a much more extended area has been studied this season than in 1900.

The grouping1 of these rocks in the present report is determined by the same 

conditions observed in the Seward Peninsula in 1900; namely, a genera] and 

considerable, although varying, metarnorphism, which affects all the rock types, 

howeyer diverse, and gives a clear basis for the separation of the group from 

younger unaltered or but little altered sediments and lavas which are found at 

widely separated points in the field.

AGE.

Overlying portions of the Metamorphic complex are recent unaltered beds with 

basal conglomerates derived in some cases directly from the schists, and containing 

no other material than that furnished by them. Some of these beds are of Tertiary 

age, as determined by plant remains collected in them, and others are regarded on 

somewhat less definite grounds as Cretaceous or at least Mesozoic. The members 

of the Metamorphic complex are, of course, older than these.

In his section across the Arctic Rockies, Mr. Schrader 0 found quartzites and 

phyllites of Carboniferous and limestones of Devonian and Silurian age. These 

exhibit the effects of metamorphic action, and probably are represented among thediverse beds included here.

Messrs. Brooks 6 and Collier^ found fossils of Devonian and Silurian age in the 

rocks of the Nome scries of Seward Peninsula. In 1900 the writer found on 

Seward Peninsula fossils which are Lower Mesozoic or Carboniferous. These 

Seward Peninsula rocks, as has been stated, are regarded as the general equivalents 

of those under consideration, because of their similarity in metaniorphisrn and 

in relations to later sediments and lavas. Thus the evidence at hand tends -to the 

conclusion that the rocks here considered are chiefly Paleozoic, probably ranging 

generally through this era; they may in some localities include Lower Mesozoic beds.

LOCALITIES AND DESCRIPTIONS.

DALL KIVER AW? A.

Toe old rocks were first encountered along the upper Dall River, where 

the hills in which it heads rise from beneath the silts of the Yukon Basin. It 

is out of these rocks and the granitic intrusives which cut them that the broad 

ridges and spurs were carved from which the waters of the Dall, Swift, and Kanuti 

rivers, and many Koyukuk tributaries flow. The phase most commonly displayed

a Geological suction of the Eocky Mountains in northern Alaska: Bull. Gcol. Soc. America, Vol. XIII, pi>. 233-252.

b A reconnaisance of the Cape Nomu and Adjacent Gold Fields of Seward Peninsula, Alaska in 1901, p. 31.

o A rcconnaisance of the northwest portion of Seward Peninsula: Prof. Paper U. S. Geol. Survey No. 2, pp. 21-22.
METAMOBPHIC COMPLEX. 33

here is a fine, even-grained quartz-biotite-schist, with very fine and straight lamination—a true metamorphic rock of uncertain origin. This type makes up the 

great mass of the schistose rocks of this area. With the intrusives which cut it, 

it forms the crest of the divide between the Yukon and the Koyukuk and the 

higher parts of the branching spurs where these were examined. Farther down 

their flanks and away from the intrusive centers, the rock is oftener coarser, less 

quartzose, and less finely and evenly laminated. Other micas than biotite sometimes appear and by gradations schists are encountered which are clearly sediments carrying graphite and calcite. Interbedded with schists like these, 2 miles 

north of Dall City, are three or four bands of gray, 'often v7 ery coarsely crystalline limestone, standing at high angles and striking nearly east and west.

South of the flats at the head of the Kanuti River a series of dark, fine-grained 

slates and dark quartzites form the lower slopes of "the wall of the valley.

Intrusives.—The schists are extensively cut by uniform bodies of graniteporphyry, which in some parts of-the region occupy greater areas than the rocks 

into which they have been forced. These masses are particularly abundant north 

of the upper course of the Kanuti River and among the hills northwest of the 

eastern branch of the Dall. An area near the head of Fish Creek,, although not 

visited, exhibits rough topographic forms which are presumably to be ascribed 

to these resistant intrusive masses.

Near the camp of June 24 on the Dall River, granites which are not porphyritic 

and not schistose, though deeply weathered, outcrop along the stream section, 

and are regarded as -intrusive in the schists, although the contact is not shown. 

On the hill slopes to the north occasional narrow and compact acid dikes are 

exhibited. These are regarded as offshoots from the main intrusive mass.

In addition to these unaltered intrusives, gneissoid porphyritic rocks of granitic 

and dioritic composition occur in the schists. Sometimes the crushing has gone 

so far as to suggest that some of the biotite-schists may themselves be derived 

from igneous rocks of like character, but as no instance was observed in which 

the distinction could not be clearly made, this suggestion remains unproved. It 

is true, however, that the intrusion began before the metamorphic action had ceased, 

so that the earlier intrusives were greatly affected by it.

KOWAK ABBA.

The second group of metamorphic rocks was first seen a few miles above the 

mouth of Helpmejack Creek, and they were encountered at intervals all along the 

Kowak Valley and Kotzebne Sound.

The hills 'in which the lower course of Helpmejack Creek is cut are made 

up of a gray or green compact, schistose quartzite, with occasional calcite grains, 

9501—No. 10—02——3
34 PORT HAMLIN tfo KOTZEBUE SOUND, ALASKA.

cut by intrusive greenstone masses which are themselves much altered and have 

been rendered schistose. Sufficient of their original structure, however, remains 

to determine them as diabases.

The quartzites overlie interbedded graphitic and chloritic schists, likewise 

containing basic intrusive masses, greatly altered. The east-west valley in which 

Kowak Pass lies seems to be cut along the strike of these softer beds, whose 

presence may have been a determining element in locating- this wide depression.

North ot the portage, the immediately adjacent; mountain group is made up 

of interbedded crystalline limestones and gray schists, the latter often very 

graphitic and siliceous. One bed of limestone, 200 feet in thickness, is conspicuous, 

and the schists for several hundred feet above it contain narrower interbedded 

calcareous bands.

Along the southwest shore and the islands of Walker Lake, west of the lastdescribed area, and having the same general strike, are lustrous muscovite-schists, 

quartz-calcite-sckists, and massive crystalline limestones. On the shore opposite, 

2,000 feet above the level of the lake, narrow belts of limestone interbedded 

with the schists form conspicuous white bands encircling the mountain.

Below and for a short distance above the outlet of Walker Lake the Kowak 

crosses a belt of black slates, usually clean, smooth, and easily cleaved, but also 

exhibiting pencil-slate aspects due to the development of two approximately 

equal cleavages at right angles to each other. These slates, like the schists to the 

north, more usually exhibit cast-west strikes and southern dips, -although local 

cross folds and fractures occur, with resulting confused attitudes.

Among the beds outcropping along the shores of Lake Selby, and assigned to 

this series, are a number of greenstones of various types. More generally the}' are 

highly schistose and appear in one instance at least to be derived from the alteration 

of a fragmental volcanic rock. The alteration usually has gone so far that very little 

can be said about the original character of the rock. One specimen examined was 

found to be composed almost exclusively of finely granular epidote.

Above the mouth of the Kogoluktuk the Kowak swings against the north wall of 

its valley, and the rocks here exposed are green quartzose, micaceous, and chloritie 

schists. Quartz occurs as grains or lenses, from microscopic dimensions to bodies 

some feet in greatest diameter, and constitutes a very large percentage of the rock 

mass.

Near the head of Shingnek .Creek, north of the range immediately adjacent to 

the Kowak Valley, Mr. L. M. Prindle reports limestones, mica-schists, and serpentines, and still farther to the north rugged ranges of schistose rocks. West,of the 

lower course of the Ambler lies a high group called by Lieutenants Stoney and 

Cantwell the Jade Mountains, because of the occurrence of jade along their southern
U, 6. GEOLOGICAL SURVEY PROFESSIONAL PAPER NO. 10 PL. VI

j-* .

A. UPPER KOWAK 1 MILE BELOW MOUTH OF KICHAIAKAKA CREEK. 

In the background are mountains of schist.

Ji. SLATY ASPECT OF BERGMAN SERIES IN LOWER GORGE OF KOWAK RIVER.
METAMOEl'HIC COMPLEX. 85

flank. Both of these explorers visited this group, and in their search for the 

jade made rather extensive collections. Among the rock types brought back, 

Dr. George P. Merrill" describes serpentines and green quartzites, and the same 

author, in collaboration with Dr. F. W. Clarkc,* gives detailed descriptions of 

several varieties of jade.

Near the eastern end of the same mountain group there is an extensive 

exposure of a rock which is light gray in fresh fracture, but a deep rusty-red 

in its usual field aspects. It proves to be composed of quartz and magnesite in 

approximately equal amounts. A small quantity of iron is also present, probably as a carbonate, and to this is due the characteristic color of the weathered 

rock.

Just above the mouth of the Squirrel River is a greenstone which consists 

principally of quartz, chlorite, and calcite. It is probably a greatly altered 

intrusive member of the schists. In the same neighborhood, a short distance 

back from, the river, thin-bedded limestones outcrop, and these are succeeded 

toward the west by a rock of granitic composition, but with its component 

minerals much fractured and strained, so that the rock may now be regarded as 

a true schist, undoubtedly originally an acid intrusive. Highly garnetiferous 

beds we're examined along the river bank in the neighborhood of the camp of 

•August 29. Below the mouth of the Squirrel River gray crystalline limestones 

and clear white marbles interbedded with micaceous schists form the river bank 

for some distance above the.delta.

KOTZEBUE SOUND AREA.

The rocks of Choris Peninsula are all highly schistose and exhibit a wide range 

in mirieralogic composition. Schistose limestones, graphitic schists, often highly 

garnetiferous, and some amphibolc-bearing schists outcrop here. Chamisso and 

Puffin islands are carved from rocks of gneissoid granite.

On the mainland, east of Chamisso Island, a quartzose graphitic schist, striking about parallel to the shore line, forms most of the rock bluffs south to the 

flats about Spafaricf Bay. Its continuity is interrupted, however, by masses of 

greenstone which are regarded as altered basic igneous bodies.

The south shore of Kotzelrae Sound as far west as the mining village of 

Deering is a succession of headlands and embaymeiits with almost continuous 

exposures of members of this series. Micaceous and graphitic schists are most 

extensively represented, but feldspathic varieties are not uncommon, and about 

half a mile south of Alder Creek, associated with an impure limestone, are bodies 

of amphibolite-schists and serpentines.

a Science, Vol. V, 1885, p. 209. ' SProu. U. 8. Nat. Mas., Vol. XI, 1888, pp. 115-180.
36 FORT HAMLIN TO KOTZEBUE SOUND, ALASKA.

The same general series presumably continues westward along the shores of 

Goodhope Bay to Rex Creek, where it was reported by Beechey and by prospectors 

to be succeeded • by recent volcanics.

STKUCTURE.

But little definite structural evidence was collected in the region of the Dall 

River portage. The schists, where so extensively intruded by the porphyries, 

are generally nearly vertical, but exhibit very confused strikes. Near the 

southern edge of this area, where interbedded limestones gave datum planes from 

which to determine attitude, the schistosity and bedding were found to correspond. 

Here the dips were to. the south at rather high angles, with strikes varying 

somewhat, but generally east and west or a few degrees north or south of these 

directions. The northern edge of this field was not reached nor anywhere closely 

approached, but the fact that the majority of the strikes and dips recorded near 

the southern margin are to the south and the greater proportion of the porphyritic intrusives occur some distance north of the margin nearer the center of 

the mass, suggests that the general structure may be anticlinal.

The schists where examined along and north of the Kowak almost universally 

exhibit east-west or nearly east-west strikes parallel to the Endicott Mountains, 

whose southern flanks they form here. Their dips are, as generally, southward, 

away from the mountains. They pass under the silts, gravels, and recent deposits 

of the Kowak Valley, and probably do not rise to the surface again on the south 

side of the mountains except at one or two points within the drainage basin of 

the Kowak. .Hotham Peak and its immediate vicinity and the Sheklukshuk Range, 

although not examined, show topographic forms which are characteristic of the' 

schistose series in other localities, and the streams draining them carry schistose 

pebbles, so that limited areas in the immediate vicinity of these mountains are 

probably made up of these older rocks. Hence the Kowak occupies a great 

strike valley, and probably portions of that valley arc synclinal.

So closely do the measured strikes in the schists conform to the direction of 

the valley walls at each particular point measured that it is suggested that the 

minor irregularities of the valley (its local variations from an east-west direction) 

may correspond to and be dependent upon equivalent variations in the trend of 

the schistose series.

VEINS.

Along the Dall River portage the mass of old rocks is very siliceous, and 

blebs of pure white quartz, often of large size, occur. A lens exposed along the 

trail above Dall City is 10 feet in thickness and 40 or 50 feet long. It displays 

unbroken interlocking quartz crystals and rhombic 'cavities from which calcite has 

been dissolved, but no other mineralization is in evidence at the surface. Its
,• KATUm SEKTES. 37

unfractured character and the corrugations along its margin, corresponding to the 

crinkling in the schist which formed the walls of the cavity at the time of its 

precipitation, indicate that it is of later date than the crinkling and the crushing 

forces to which the general metamorphism is due. These occasional occurrences 

of large bodies in the.Dall River area arc rather exceptional, and the majority of 

the veins are of minor importance and appear as narrow stringers.

The quartzose schist of upper Helprnejack Creek contains stringers and a few 

heavier veins. Pegmatite also was observed here. In the neighborhood of the 

Kowak portage the schists do not carry continuous veins, but lenticular bodies 18 

inches in greatest dimension were sometimes seen. Some of the quartz in these 

lenses is clear and glassy.

The black-slate phase above and below the outlet of Walker Lake and the 

schists below Kichaiakaka Creek are filled with fine but nonpersistent veinlets, 

usually parallel to the cleavage of the slates. The rocks of the series most extern 

sively affected by quartz fillings are those on the north bank of the river in the 

vicinity of Kalla. Lenses and knots here make up probably no less than 50 per 

cent of the rock mass,in many instances. Extensive regular and persistent veins, 

however, were not observed.

The Kotzebue Sound occurrences carry quartz veinlets, and occasional blocks 

of large size on the beach indicate the presence of considerable masses. Many of 

the tiny stringers here are found to be involved in the folds and intricate crinkling 

of the schists. This condition, while not universal, is the usual one in these rocks, 

so that much the greater part of the quartz filling has occurred early in their 

history and previous to the latest deformation.

KANUTI SERIES. 

LOCALITIES AND DESCRIPTIONS.

About 27 miles by river west of the portage from the head of the Dall, the 

Kanuti River enters a canyon nearly 30 miles long, cut in rocks of a type entirely 

different from any encountered in extensive bodies elsewhere. Very compact 

greenstones of doubtful origin and some fine-grained pyroclastics occur at the 

head of the canyon. These are intruded by dioritic rocks composed of green 

hornblende and plagioclase, and are succeeded downstream by compact and 

vesicular basalts and detrital rocks in the form of volcanic tuffs and hornstones 

veined with quartz. The hornstone resembles some phases of the schistose series, 

but its indurated character is regarded as the result of intrusive masses in its 

immediate vicinity.

The greater and much the most conspicuous portion of the Kanuti series 

is made up of intrusive rocks. In certain prominent red hills near the camp
38 FORT HAMLIN TO KOTZEBUE SOUND, ALASKA.

of July 6 there arc masses of ultrabasic rock often much altered to serpentine, 

but identifiable in particular cases as pyroxenite and hornblendite. Their darkred color when weathered is due to the iron, which they contain in sufficient 

amounts to cause a disturbance of the magnetic needle in their vicinity.

Greenstones and intrusive bodies, the latter belonging to dioritic or gabbroic 

magmas, continue to form the valley walls downstream from the occurrence just 

described until the river passes out into the lower flats, except for some bluffs 

along the right bank of the river in the vicinity of the camp of July 8, where 

more recent lavas and tuffs occur.

An isolated hill, 800 to 900 feet high, around whose southern base the river 

flows just before entering the flats, is the last outcrop examined which belongs 

to the rocks of this type. It proves to be a mass of serpentine with much later 

intruded diabase.

Two or three belts of granitic rock, apparently occurring as later intrusives, 

cut the series at adjacent points along the river.

INTERRELATIONS.

The rocks which have been grouped together here as the Kanuti series are 

very diverse in mode of occurrence, but with the exception of the hornstones 

desci'ibed above they are generally basic igneous rocks or their pyroclastio equivalents. The oldest members are the greenstones and hornstones, which exhibit 

considerable mechanical alteration. Younger than these are the massive gabbroic 

rocks (and the serpentines derived from them), which arc regarded as intrusive in 

the bedded greenstone members, while the most recent rocks of the series are the 

basalts, basaltic tuffs, and diabases, the latter intrusive in certain instances in the 

serpentines.

AGE AND EQUIVALENTS.

I

The entire series is regarded chiefly upon the basis of less extensive mechanical 

alteration as younger than that phase of the schistose beds studied along the Dall 

River portage. These are regarded as among the oldest of the schistose series, 

being probably of early Paleozoic age. The earlier of the Kanuti rocks may then 

be considered as Middle Paleozoic. Mr. Spurr's Rampart series," consisting of 

diabases, which he regards as flows, and associated sediments and tufas, outcrops 

along the Yukon 50 miles southeast of the occurrences on the Kanuti River. Except 

that no equivalents of the massive gabbroic rocks of the Kanuti River are described 

along the Yukon, the resemblance between the occurrences is sufficiently close to 

suggest that they represent the same conditions and belong to the same period.

"Geology of the Yukon district, Alaska; Eighteenth Ann. Kept. U. S. Qeol. Survey, 1't. Ill, pp. 155-](ia.
U.S. GEOLOGICAL SURVEY PROFESSIONAL PAPER No. 10 PL. VII

LEGEND

PLEISTOCENE

Silts, sands, andgravels

BERGMAN SERIES 

MESOZOIC?

Sandstones, graywackes,

and shales,latter 

sometimes slightly- altered

Rapid City

ChieflycongLomerate and

sanflstone. OnKowakBivar

includes red Tieds

Schists of various types;

mayinclude slate and

limestone

Diabasic intrusivBS

Vertical beds

Dip aiid strike

V

;~>Sug.l4-Var.290 20'E.

GEOLOGIC RECONNAI!

of'REGION ABOUT THE PORTAGE FROM THE WWAK TO THE ALLEN RIVER

Geology by Walter C.Mendenhall, '1 >po<|raphyby D.L.Reaburii

Contour interval 2

- Probable drainage no

Dates indicate camps
GENERAL GEOLOGY. , 39

BERGMAN SERIES.

LOCALITIES AND DESCRIPTIONS.

Twenty-five miles above its mouth the valley of the Kanuti River closes in 

abruptly'and the stream enters a narrow defile with walls several hundred feet high, 

which are composed of folded sandstone; fine conglomerates; and dark, sandy 

shales. Below Mentanontli Creek outcrops of these rocks are less frequent, but 

the hills back from the river on either side are found to be made up of sediments 

of the same general character. They are well shown along the Koyukuk between 

Arctic City and Bergman, although more arenaceous here than in some localities, 

and they extend up the Alien to beyond the mouth of Helpmejack Creek. Usually 

the sandstones and shales are associated in thin, sharpry defined alternating bands, 

but occasionally the sandstones disappear and broad belts of shale many hundred 

feet in thickness arc found.

Passing northward up the Alien thin conglomerate beds begin to appear with 

pebbles of black and green flint and occasionally of quartz. The shales decrease 

in amount and become somewhat more fissile as the sandstones are replaced by 

the conglomerates.

In the vicinity of Beaver City outcrops of the basal portion of the formation 

consist almost exclusively of conglomerate, which is not usually coarse, and contains pebbles of diversified types derived from the older rocks to the north. The 

conglomerate lies nearly horizontal and extends eastward to Totsenbet River, where 

it has been reported by Mr. Schrader.

On the Kowak, a few miles above the outlet of Lake Nutavukti, conglomerates 

are exposed which, although exhibiting some variations from the type, are regarded 

as belonging- to the Bergman scries. The conglomeratic beds are here interbedded 

with red and green shales, and a considerable body of soft red sandstones occurs 

in one locality. In the conglomerate occur pebbles of slate, greenstone, and other 

types, which are recognized as derived from the older rocks to the north.

Through the mile gorge, a short distance above the outlet of Norutak Lake, 

the Kowak flows along the strike of a slaty phase of the Bergman, which is very 

similar lithologically to a belt crossed along the Alien nearly due east of here. 

The slates in the canyon of the Kowak carry small limestone lenses and are cut 

by narrow quartz stringers. They have been only very slightly metamorphosed.

Below the gorge the river enters a broad, filled, valley with no rock exposures 

until the mouth of the Reed River is reached. Here slaty shales, similar to those in 

the gorge above, are found in outcrop and exhibit a northerly dip, while those 

in the go,rge dip toward the south. Five or 6 miles farther downstream, soft, 

green, fractured sandstones and graywackes, frequently weathering red, are 

encountered.
40 FOKT HAMLIN TO KOTZEUTJK SOUND, ALASKA.

A short distance above the mouth of Pah River the hills south of the Kowak

^

are found to be composed of these same Bergman beds. The shales predominate 

here, and the topographic forms to which they give rise extend westward to the

head of the Kuikeherk River and eastward as far as can be seen." i

STRUCTURE.

The beds of the Bergman series are everywhere folded to a greater or less 

degree, the amount being dependent on the resistant power of a particular portion 

of the mass as well as on its situation relative to the, stresses which have brought 

about the folding. In the first exposures observed along the Kanuti River, 20 or 

25 miles above its mouth, the intcrbedded sandstones and shales are thrown into 

close folds, anticlines and synelines succeeding one another rapidly with maximum 

dips of 65°. No faults were observed. Along the Koyukuk, between Arctic 

City and Bergman, the beds, here more arenaceous, are likewise folded. A fault 

of unknown throw which crosses the river here has been figured by Mr. Schradev." 

Along the Alien -north of the Koyukuk the beds generally dip toward the south 

at angles of from 20° to 60°, only occasionally and for short distances exhibiting 

dips to the north.

Near the northern limit of the formation the basal conglomerates form a 

broad belt, and where exposed in the neighborhood of Beaver City are horizontal 

or dip to the south at low angles. Corresponding outcrops of conglomerate along 

the upper Kowak show higher dips, but in the same general direction. •>

The black shales in the lower gorge of the Kowak dip to the south at angles 

varying from 45° to 65°, and the similar arid probably equivalent beds at the mouth 

of the Reed River have northerly dips, as do those just above the Pah. Some 

faulting has taken place in the sandstones below Beaver Creek, but it is probably 

not extensive.

To summarize, it may be said that the structure of the Bergman series is complex, involving abundant open folds and some faults of unknown extent, but that in 

a broad way it forms a synclinorium with bounding walls of older rocks outcropping 

toward the northwest and the southeast.

AGE.

The beds of the series were closely scanned by the writer over a broad area and 

have been carefully studied for two seasons by Mr. Schrader, but as yet no deterrninable fossils have been found in them. Indistinct and fragmental plant remains 

occur in places, and fragments of coaly material were noted in the conglomerate at 

one locality. The conglomerate forming the basal member of the series is derived

«Reconnaissance along Chandlar and Koyukuk rivers, Alaska, in 1899: Twenty-first Annual Kept. U. S. Geol. 

Survey, Part II, p. 469.
KENAI SERIES. 41

principally from the schists which have been described, hence the beds are later than 

these. Usually they are wholly unmetamorphosed, but the beginnings of metamorphism appear in some of the shaly phases along the middle Alien and in the 

gorge of the Kowak. These beds may eventually have to be separated from the Bergman series, but sufficient evidence was not gathered this season for such a separation, 

hence they are included with the entirely unaltered rocks. The induration is generally greater than that of the lignite-bearing Tertiary beds of Dall River and those 

of the lower Kowak, although folding is but little if any more complex. From these 

general characters, the beds are to, be regarded as pre-Miocene, and since the older 

schists probably include members extending well up in the Paleozoic, we may assign 

the Bergman to the Mesozoic, pending the finding of more definite evidence.

KENAI SERIES. 

LOCALITIES AND DESCRIPTIONS.

About a mile above the mouth of Coal Creek, a western tributary of the 

Upper Dall, there occurs an outcrop of soft gray, buff, or black shales, standing 

at an angle of about 30° and associated with a heavy bed of lignitic coal and 

bone. A short distance upstream from the mouth of Coal Creek, the Dall River 

receives a tributary from the north which carries lignite fragments, proving the 

occurrence of lignite-bearing beds somewhere within its drainage basin. No 

fossils were found in any of these Dall River beds, but because of the character 

of the lignite which occurs in them, and their own lithologic resemblance to welldetermined strata in other parts of the territory, they are assigned with considerable confidence to the Kenai group.

Along the lower course of the Ambler, outcrops were examined which consisted of a series of conglomerates, soft, cross-bedded sandstones, and shales, 

which were often carbonaceous and carried obscure remains of plant stems. 

Some phases of the conglomerates are made up wholly of material derived 

directly from the mica-schists and but little sorted. White vein quartz, somewhat 

rounded, furnishes most of the material for the pebbles, which are embedded in a 

matrix, consisting chiefly of fine muscovite and chlorite foils. These beds make 

up the low hills between the lower Redstone and the Ambler and between the 

latter stream and the Kowak. Similar beds, associated with limestone, are reported 

by Mr. Prindle along the middle course of Shingnek Creek.

Just below the mouth of the Hunt River a hard quartz conglomerate containing coal fragments was found in place, and prospectors report similar beds 

as formingt bluffs for several miles along the lower course, of the Hunt River.

The most extensive exposures of these beds along the Kowak are found in 

outcrops along both banks for 8 or 10 miles below the mouth of the Reed River. 

Here a succession of conglomerate layers, with pebbles of quartz, mica-schist,
42 POET HAMLIN TO KOTZEBUE SOUND, ALASKA.

limestone, and serpentine embedded in a micaceous matrix, alternate with less 

resistant and hence less well-exposed beds. The individual conglomerate plates 

vary from 10 to 200 feet in thickness, but are quite uniform in character. The 

softer beds separating1 them are sandstones, shales, fire clays, and coals.

STRUCTURE.

These rocks are everywhere thrown into folds, whoso details are not generally 

determinable from the evidence gathered. Faults were not observed. The rather 

uniform southerly dips which generally affect the older beds to the east are absent, 

the structures being more local in character.

AGE.

A few fossil plants were collected below the mouth of the Reed River and 

submitted to Dr. F. H. Knowlton for determination. He says, "This collection 

consists of five small specimens, the matrix being grayish, fine-grained, very hard 

sandstone. The plant remains are not retained with great fidelity, but fortunately 

all are determinable. Four species are represented, as follows: G-inkgo sp'. 

probably G. -adiantoides (Unger) -Heer, Taxodium distichum, miocenwm Heer, 

Taxodium tmajorum Heer, PopuLus arctica Heer. With .so few species as a basis 

for comparison, it is not possible to speak very dogmatically as to their probable 

age, but all things considered, I should incline to refer them to the so-called 

Arctic Miocene, which is now generally regarded as belonging, really, to the 

Upper Eocene."

This identification assigns these bods with much probability to the Kenai group, 

where they were placed on more general grounds by Dall and Harris" in 1892. The 

Ainbler River occurrences are assigned to the same period because of lithologic 

resemblances, indistinct vegetable remains, and associated carbonaceous^ matter.

LAVAS.

Basalt.—Along the middle Kanuti River, in the vicinity of the camp of July 

9, horizontally bedded vesicular oliviue-basalts form bluffs 50 to 75 feet high on the 

north bank of the river, and similar bluff's south of the valley are probably due to 

the same formation.

South of Goodhope Bay, Beechey reported olivine-basalts, and the accounts of 

prospectors tend to confirm the presence of a recent lava here. Somewhat farther 

south, the writer* in 1900 found extensive sheets of basaltic lavas in the valley of 

the Koyuk River, and Mr. Collier 6" in 1901 found similar areas in the valley of the

a Bull. U.'S. Geol. Survey No. 84, p. 248. .

''Reconnaissance in the Norton Bay Keglon, Alaska, in 1900, p. 200.

c A reconnaissance of the northwest portion of the Seward Peninsula, Alaska: Prof. Paper U. S. Geol. Survey No. '2, p. 31.
U- S. GEOLOGICAL SURVEY PROFESSIONAL PAPER NO. 10 PL. VIII

A. OUTCROP OF TERTIARY (KENAI) SEDIMENT, COAL CREEK.

Ii. RAPIDS IN OUTLET OF WALKER LAKE, 

The stream here for a few hundred yards cuts bed rock; throughout the remainder of its course it has gravel banks.
LAVAS AND UNCOMSOLIDATED DEPOSITS. 43

Kuzitrin. Their presence adds to the probability that the Goodhope occurrences 

are basalts.

Andesites and tuffs,—The most extensively distributed lavas in the Kanuti River 

Valley are hornblende-andesites and associated fragmental material. In the vicinity 

of -the camp of July 8, massive flows and coarse breccias, the latter sometimes 

containing angular blocks 10 feet in diameter, embedded in fine ash or pumice, 

form bluffs 250 feet in height along the river. Downstream from this,locality, the 

tufaceous form of the deposit disappears, but the low hills for many miles north of 

the river are made up entirely of massive andcsites.

AGE.

The basalts and andesites were not found in contact, but both occur along the 

Kanuti Elver in horizontally bedded flows. The andesites lie at higher levels and 

are therefore perhaps younger. Since both are structurally undisturbed, they are 

more recent than the Kenai beds of the upper Dall River, which are extensively 

folded. The relation of the andesites to the topography is such as to suggest that 

the lavas flowed into valleys which had been cut to approximately their present 

depth, and thus brought about changes in drainage. The streams have.since cut 

through or at least well into the lava and breccia filling, and have removed in 

some cases hundreds of feet of it. This cutting may have occupied all of Pleistocene 

time, but probably not more, so that the lavas are to be regarded as very late 

Tertiary or possibly early Pleistocene.

UNCONSOLIDATED DEPOSITS.

flail River.—The Yukon Flats, with their characteristic deposits, which have 

been described in abundant detail by other writers, extend up the Dall for 60 miles 

or more. Throughout this lower part of the river they stand approximately at highwater mark, so that during the spring freshets the whole region is inundated, with 

the exception of only a few knolls which have been built .up by accumulation of 

vegetable matter. Sections of the river banks exhibit alternating vegetable and silt 

layers, the former generallythe more prominent. Associated with both there are 

occasional scattered bowlders and embedded gravels, which are regarded as ice-borne.

Nearer its source, the Dall River is found to be incised for 100 or 150 feet in 

beds which are chiefly fine .silts, but contain sands and often, near the base, gravel 

and shingle, layers. These become coarser farther up the valley and finally merge 

with indistinct and incomplete terraces of gravel, with no recognized fine material, 

whieh flank the hills about the headwaters of the stream.

Jfanuti River flows through two basins filled with silt and gravel. In the 

upper, which is between 10 and 15 miles in length and i or 5 in width, the deposits 

grade from coarse river gravels at the upper end of the flats to fine muds and silts
44 FORT HAMI.IN TO KOTZTCBTTT: SOUND, ALASKA.

at the lower end. They have been deposited by the stream while flowing at its 

present level, since the silts do not in any observed instance extend above the 

flood plain stage of the river. The lower basin of the Kanuti River is more 

extensive, and the deposits more complex. The flats begin about 140 miles above 

the mouth of the river and extend 100 miles downstream. At first they occupy 

a valley about 4 or 5 miles wide, but near the mouth of a large tributary from the 

south this valley and the deposits which fill it expand to a width of 20 to 25 

miles. Usually the silts stand but a few feet above the water level, but near the 

center of this basin there occur several groups of hills composed of silt and sand, 

which rise from 100 to 200 feet higher. They are remnants of an earlier deeper 

filling, the rest of which has been removed by erosion.

Alien River,—The lower Alien Valley and the immediately adjacent parts of 

the Koyukuk Valley are filled with silts and gravels, and these extend up the 

Alien, increasing in coarseness but decreasing in lateral extent as the valley narrows, until they merge with comparatively coarse glacial deposits in the vicinity 

of Helpmejack -Creek. The limits of glacial activity within the Alien Valley can 

not be accurately determined from the data at hand, but the character of the 

gravels is such that they may all be regarded as water-transported and sorted 

glacial de'bris.

Kowak Hiver.—Similar material is abundant about the outlet of Walker Lake 

and is spread over the floor of the Kowak Valley as far down as the lower gorge 

of that stream. The truly glacial filling, however, is probably best developed 

within the valley drained by Helpmejack and Kichaiakaka creeks, along which 

the portage from the Kowak to the Alien lies.

Below the gorge of the Kowak the glacial aspect of the gravels and sands gradually fades, and the entire middle stretch of the river, from the gorge to the mouth 

of the lower Reed River, is filled by a mass of unconsolidatcd clays, silts, and sands, 

which, whether originally fluvial or glacial, can not now be distinguished from such 

deposits as occupy the Yukon Flats. The "Kowak clays," described by Oantwell 

from an outcrop just above the mouth of Jade Creek, and the subject of a notice by 

Dall and Harris, are perhaps the best exposure of the finer phase of these beds, 

although cut banks of similar material are not at all unusual in this section. The 

clays here occupy the same relation to the stream as do the sands and gravels farther 

up the valley, and are to be regarded as but a downstream and consequently finer 

•representative of these. Both the silts of the middle section and the coarser 

deposits of the upper form bluffs which sometimes rise to heights of 150 feet 

above the water level.

The valley of the Kowak is comparatively narrow between the mouths of the 

Reed and Squirrel rivers, being here but 2 to 4 miles across as compared with.
GLACIATICXN. 45

four or five times this width above, but below the Squirrel River the expansion 

of the delta begins, and where the waters of the various sloughs and channels 

enter Hotham Inlet the width along an approximately north-south line is 26 to 

27 miles. • The delta deposits are frozen muds and vegetable accumulations, with 

occasional masses of quite clear ice. Many writers since Kotzebue have discussed 

the origin of these ice cliffs, but the explanation given by Mr. L. M. Turner,0 

Messrs. E. W. Nelson and C. L. Hooper,* and Prof. I. C. Russell" seems to be 

entirely adequate. It is that many of the numerous lakelets scattered about over 

the tundra are gradually buried by the advance of their mossy borders toward 

the center. After their burial they are frozen, as is the entire tundra, a few 

inches below its surface and are later revealed by lateral river cutting, as in 

the Kowak delta, or by the work of waves, as at Elephant Point, and appear as 

masses of comparatively clear ice in the general deposit of frozen mud, sands, 

and vegetable matter.

JSbtzcbue Sound.—All of the peninsula which separates Hotham8 Inlet and 

Selawik Lake from Kotzebue Sound and its waters, with the exception of the 

extreme southwestern point (where members of the schistose series outcrop in 

Choris Peninsula), is made up of Pleistocene silts, clays, and embedded ice. Its 

outline and topography suggest that shoals which have formed off the mouths 

of the Noatak, the Kowak, the Selawik, and the Buckland have been raised into 

islands by slight local elevations, and that these islands have afterwards been tied 

into one long peninsula by the action of winds, waves, and currents.

Elephant Point is a famous locality for the bones of extinct and living 

species of mammals and has been visited by Kotzebue, Beechey, Nelson, Dall, and 

others. At Cape Blossom similar remains are found, and Cantwell reports tusks 

of the mammoth on the Kowak below the Ambler. Mammoth bones were observed 

this year near the head of Hotham Inlet, and they may be looked for anywhere 

in the, frozen clays and silts of this region where there are exposures. For a 

fuller discussion of these fossils and of the formation in which they are found 

the reader is referred to Dall ,and Harris."1

GLACIATION.

That part of the region between the Yukon and the Koyukuk which was visited 

shows no evidences of glacial action and exhibits abundant phenomena to prove 

that there has been no such action there within geologically recent times. The 

slopes bordering the valleys have not been cleared of their mantle of debris; no rook

a Contributions to the Natural History of Alaska, Signal Office, Washington, 1886.

6 Report of the cruise o£ the TJ. S. Revenue steamer Thomas Corwin in the Arctic Ocean, 1881,

c Surface geology of Alaska: Bull. Geol. Soc. Am,, Vol. 1,1889, p,128.

d Correlation papers. Neocene: Bull. U. S. Geol. Survey No. 84, p. 260 et seq.
46 FORT HAMLIN TO KOTZEBUE SOUND, ALASKA.

scorings are to be seen; the recent deposits along the middle and lower courses 

of the Call River arc stream-laid silts,. and the sands and gravels contain, so far 

as examined, no bowlder clays. The mountainous country about the head of the 

Kanuti, Call, and Swift rivers and the various southern tributaries of the Koyukuk is characteristically rough in its higher portions, without evidence of the 

smoothing action of a general ice sheet, while in the upper Kanuti Eiver Valley 

the dikes of granite-porphyry which intrude the slates and schists of the region 

form rough minor ridges near the present stream level and exhibit disintegration 

bowlders and other undisturbed forms due to weathering. The canyon below the 

upper basin of the river is likewise free from evidence of ice work, the disintegration mantle being usually present where the grade of the valley walls _ is such that 

it may be expected.

North from the Koyukuk, however, evidences of ice work begin to* appear. 

The isolated mountain mass lying between Helpuiejack Creek and the Alashuk 

River has "suggestively smooth forms, and there are scattered about on its summit a few rounded quartz and quartzite pebbles. No definite striations and no 

considerable glacial deposits were noticed, but, standing as it does near the 

junction of the three valleys of the upper Helpmejack, the upper Alashuk, and 

Malemut creeks, it is conceivable that the ice which occupied these valleys 

may have temporarily capped this knob, although its general level was much 

lower. /

More definite evidence is obtained in the neighborhood of the portage to the 

Kowak and about Walker Lake. Distinctly striated pebbles occur along upper 

Kichaiakaka Creek, and the confused topographic forms of the gravel fillings of 

this valley and its continuation westward across the portage to the Kowak 

immediately suggest ice action. Along Helpmejack Creek and the middle Alien 

drainage changes have taken place which are best explained by glacial action. The 

direct topographic continuation of the upper Helpmejack Creek Valley is eastward 

into the Alien by the pass which leads to the latter stream in the vicinity of Rapid 

City, but Helpmejack Creek at present leaves this broad, open way, turns to the 

south at right angles to its logical course, and reaches the Alien at Beaver City. 

Such a course probably was originally a spillway for glacial waters, and in it 

Helpmejack Creek became intrenched while the more northerly outlet was still 

occupied by ice. Upper Helpmejack Creek occupies a filled valley, but not a 

systematically filled one. The valley is occupied by incompetent meandering 

streams and numerous small ponds at varying elevations. Its ridges and terraces, 

while of waterworn sands and gravel, so far as examined, are at no constant 

elevation arid bear no ob, vious relation to each other. In short, the topography 

and stream alignments are of the confused type which results from ice work, and
GLAOTATION. 47

arc in strong contrast to the more regular types which are due to normal stream 

growth.

The filling of the valley of Kichaiakaka Creek, is sufficiently deep to effectually 

conceal bed rock except at one doubtful point, and is made up of tine gravels 

and sands, including schist, quartz, and granitic pebbles, practically all local 

rocks, but no clays nor angular material, so far as observed. The area is but 

imperfectly drained; kettles without surface outlets, long, low ridges, transverse 

to'the valley, and irregular gravel hummocks being typical forms.

On the islands in Walker Lake are exhibited the only roche moutonnee 

surfaces that were observed during the summer. These forms were revealed at 

first only near water level, where the bed rock was free from its usual vegetable 

cover, and their occurrence here suggested that the polishing might be due to 

the action of lake ice in the spring and fall, when under the influence of strong 

winds, but a close examination proved the action to have been regular and constant in direction, and that direction, as indicated by the well-marked grooves 

parallel in places to the shores of the islands, was at right angles to the lines along 

which lake ice would usually work. The strice on these polished surfaces are 

generally parallel to the long axis of the lake, and, although well-marked stoss 

and lee sides do not exist, there can be no doubt that the glacier which occupied 

the lake basin flowed down from . the high mountains northwest of the lake 

toward the valley of the Kowak.

The stream which drains Walker Lake flows between gravel banks except 

at one point midway of its course, where it cuts a bed-rock barrier and becomes 

for a few hundred feet a wild rapid. The low gravel hills about the lower end 

of the lake exhibit the same tumbled and irregular arrangement which marks 

those of the Kichaiakaka. Angular forms such as are produced by ordinary subaerial agencies mark the higher slopes bordering the lake, and a general rounding 

without evidence of violent action characterizes the lower slopes for at most a 

distance of but a few hundred feet above the present water level, so .that the 

ice stream which filled the valley now occupied by the waters of the lake seems 

not to have been a deep one. The present outlet of the lake probably marks 

approximately the southern limit of the glacier at its principal stage of advance, 

and the materials discharged at its front, sorted and worn by the waters flowing 

from it, built up the valley beyond and remained as a dam after the retreat of 

the> ice tongue. Along the eastern shore and near the southern end of the lake, 

exists a mass of angular material, probably representing a moraine built by 

an ice stream from Walker Lake or the upper Kowak.

Just above the mouth of the Reed River, at the junction of its valley with
48 -POET HAMLIN TO KOTZBBUB SOUND, ALASKA.

that of the Kowak, is a low hill made up of the Bcrgman conglomerates, and 

leading out from its foot toward the mouth of the Eeed River is a long train of 

angular rubble composed of schistose rocks. Evidently this is the moraine of an 

ice stream w.hich occupied the valley of the Reed River and headed back among 

the altered rocks of its upper course, for material of the type represented in 

the moraine does not outcrop in this, vicinity.

At the lower end of Lake Selby the gravel hills .which dam it exhibit the 

general irregularities which characterize those of the Kichaiakaka Basin, and 

small undrained tracts are often inclosed in the encircling mounds. Along the 

west shore of the southern end of the lake three or four gravel ridges show a 

rough parallelism, all of them making a large angle with the axis of the lake. 

They are of waterworn material and belong rather to the esker than to the 

morainal type.

About 2 miles above the mouth of the Ambler River on its left bank occurs a 

deposit of blue bowlder clay 25 feet in thickness. Blocks and pebbles of dark 

crystalline limestone, much greenstone, and relatively small amounts of conglomerate and sandstone are scattered through the clay, and these bowlders are sometimes subangular and finely striated. The rocks of the lower course of the Ambler 

are sandstones and conglomerates, so that the greater part of -the coarser material 

in the clay has been transported at least some miles. Overlying the clay are 

deposits about 100 feet in thickness of irregularly stratified yellow sands • and 

clays without coarse material. The lower portion of this deposit at least is to 

be regarded as a true ground moraine, thus proving the extension of the Ambler 

Valley glacier to beyond this point.

The high mountain group separating the headwaters of the Noatak from those 

of the Kowak and extending thence eastward and westward was a center from 

which valley glaciers radiated along the principal drainage lines. These valley 

glaciers have extended down the northern tributaries of the Kowak at least to 

the main- east-west valley of that stream, and have furnished much of the material 

with which the upper part of its course is encumbered. The upper part of the 

Alien Valley has no doubt also been occupied by ice. The ice streams, except 

near their source, have probably not been deep, and their principal topographic 

effect has been to fill valleys, disturb drainage, and build dams behind which lakes 

have grown. Their direct action probably has not extended far beyond the foot 

of the mountain range in which they originated. a

a Mr. Schrader has found striated pebbles on the hills back of Bcrgman. If those have been deposited in their 

present position by ice, the valley glaciers have had a greater maximum extent than the writer has indicated.
FOBT HAMLIN TO KOTZEBUE SOUND, ALASKA. 49

ECONOMIC GEOLOGY."

COAL.

Doll River.—In the bed of Coal Creek, about 1 mile above its confluence 

with the Dall River, there is an outcrop of lignite with irregular clay streaks, which 

measures, as far as can be determined from the imperfect exposures, approximately 11 feet in thickness. At the base of the exposure is 4 or 5 feet of 

firm, bright lignite, while the remainder is soft, dirty, and of poor quality. 

Blocks of the coal have been washed down the creek and some distance down 

Dall River without breaking up; but certain portions of the seam slake rapidly 

when exposed to the atmosphere. Although no opportunity was afforded for 

making practical tests, the lower 4 or 5 feet of this seam is believed to be a 

lignite of good quality, while the remainder is probably of no value. This coal 

is contained in soft gray, buff, or black shales, which are supposed to be Tertiary 

(Kenai series).

Eowak River.—The Tertiary sediments in which the lignites occur outcrop along 

the banks of the Kowak between the mouths of the Squirrel and Reed rivers, and 

it is probable that they occur in the lower valleys of the Reed, Salmon, Kaligurecheark, and Hunt rivers. The Kowak occurrences are mentioned by Stoney and are 

more fully described by Cantwell and McLenegan, who attempted to use some of 

the coal as fuel in a steam launch, but with unsatisfactory ( results.

The coals occur in low bluffs along the river, interbedded with conglomerates 

and fire clays. Those sufficiently well exposed for examination are of poor quality 

and burn slowly, yielding abundant ash and the disagreeable gases which are 

characteristic of impure lignites. So far as could be determined, none of the coals 

outcropping here are more than 2 or 3 feet in thickness, and the majority of the 

seams arc much thinner. Half a dozen, with a thickness of 6 or 8 inches, were 

examined during the'reconnaissance. Economically the beds are valueless.

Coal is also reported in the valleys of the Kewalik and Buckland rivers, but this 

occurrence has not been confirmed.

a Two geologic maps have been prepared. One is a general map of the entire region stuflied, upon whieh the 

facts gathered in the reconnaissance have been expressed by patterns, while those gleaned from other sources are 

printed in red. This map is intended to serve an economic as,well as a geologic, purpose, the known gold occur, 

rcnces being confined to the area of the Metamorphic co'mplex and the known coal occurrences to the area of the 

Kcnai series. Coal, however, may occur in the Bergman series, although none is known at present in these rocks.

The larger scale map is introduced in order to show in somewhat greater detail than is possible on the general 

map the distribution, relations, and character of the rocks in the vicinity of the Kowak-Allen portage.

9501—No. 10—02——4
50 FOET HAMLIN TO KOTZEBUE SOUND, ALASKA.

GOLD.

Dall River.—Some prospecting has been done along this stream and a few 

colors may be found on the bars .and on the rim rock where exposed in the upper 

valley, but no occurrences of sufficient richness for development are known.

Alien River.—Colors are also found on the upper Alien and some of its 

tributaries, including Helpmejack and Rocky Bottom creeks. During the summer 

of 1901 two prospectors were at work on the latter stream, but practically no 

work has been done here since the 1898 rush, when a number of men from the 

Koyukuk prospected in different parts of the Alien Valley and found colors in 

a number of localities, but developed nothing rich enough to justify any considerable expenditure of time or money.

Noatak River.—On a tributaiy of the Noatak, which is reached by a short 

winter portage from the head of the upper Eeed River, two or three claims were 

staked in 1898, from which a little coarse gold is reported to have been washed. 

It is said that no fine gold occurs with the coarse, and that other ground in the 

vicinity of these claims is barren. The claims are located 5 or G miles from the 

main Noatak River, on a small mountain stream with a narrow valley, and but a 

small quantity of gravel in sight.

Several men with outfits intended to remain in Kotzebue Sound during the 

winter of 1901-1902 and advance supplies up the Noatak, with the idea of doingfurther prospecting there.

Kowalf, River.—Fine colors may be washed from the gravel of the upper 

Kowak and many of its tributaries, and this fact, duly exaggerated and well 

advertised in a sufficiently mysterious fashion, led to the stampede of 1898. So 

far as known, not a single strike of consequence was made, and but little prospecting has been done since, although a few white men were in the valley last 

season. Such colors as are found usually come from the northern tributaries of 

the river, although a small amount of very fine gold is reported at the head of 

the Pick.

Kotzebue Soimd. a—Late in the fall of 1900 a movement began from the Nome 

region toward the shore of Goodhope Bay and adjacent parts of Kotzebue 

Sound, and as soon as navigation opened in July, 1901, the supply station of 

Deering was established at the mouth of the Ipneehuk River. Many prospectors 

and miners came in from the more southerly areas at this time and the Fairhaven mining district was created, and so defined as to include Goodhope, 

Cripple, Sullivan, Ipneehuk, Kugruk or Swan, and Kewalik rivers, together with 

the northwestern portion of the Buckland drainage system.

a For much information concerning the Fairhaven district the writer is indebted to Mr. R. J. Wynkoop, deputy 

recorder.
GOLD. 51

In the western part of this district those creeks which have been the scene 

of the most active operations during the past season and are most favorably 

reported upon are Old Glory, Perry, and Hannum and its tributaries. The gold 

from Old Glory Creek, which may be regarded as a fair sample of the region, is 

dark, rather fine, and assays" between $16.50 and $17 per ounce.

Candle Creek, concerning which encouraging reports have been made during 

the fall and early winter, is a, western tributary of the Kewalik River, which it 

joins about 6 miles above the head of Spafarief Bay. The stream is 20 or 25 

miles long, and with its tributaries was all staked during the early summer. 

Some unsystematic work was done during the fall of 1901 by snipers, usually 

working with rockers. Thoir operations were confined to the creek bed, but it is 

uncertain whether bod rock was reached in more than one or two instances. The 

width of the pay was not determined, nor in many cases the depth of the gravel. 

The latter is given at one or two localities as about 2£ feet. The gold, of which 

$20,000 to $25,.000 is estimated to have been taken out during the late summer, 

is dull in color, considerably flattened, and assays nearly $17.

Dome, Minnehaha, Windy, Virginia, and Alder creeks, just west of Candle, 

have been prospected, and are reported to give good indications.

Beach diggings of limited extent have been carried on near the mouth of 

Alder Creek, and-are reported to yield $8 or $10 per day to the man. The gold 

here is fine, and is evidently derived immediately from the dark-gray schists which 

form the bluffs back of the beach. Bed rock is reached at a distance of about a 

foot under the shingle of the beach, and the gold is taken from its surface. 

Some threads of wire gold are seen among the washings.

One bench claim has been located at the mouth of Chicago Creek, a tributary 

of Swan River, and is reported to prospect well.

Late in the fall of 1901, when exaggerated reports began to reach Nome 

of the Candle Creek finds, several boat loads of supplies were shipped into the 

sound, and a number of people accompanied the supplies, with the idea of wintering there. Besides these, many went overland after the snow fell. The work 

of another season will be required to determine whether the richness of the Candle 

Creek district is sufficient to justify the stampede, which has assumed rather large 

proportions.

NATIVES.

YUKON VALLEY.

At the mouth of the Dall River is a settlement of the Yukon Indians, who 

fish and hunt in the immediate vicinity of this stream. One or two of the more 

experienced men in the tribe occasionally act as river pilots through the Yukon 

Flats, and for this work are well paid. Others, besides their fishing and hunting,

a Assays by Mr. E. T. Alien, D. S. Geol. Survey.
52 FOET HAMLIN TO KOTZEBUE SOUND, ALASKA.

work in the near-by wood camps or for traders at the various stations, receiving 

their pay in clothing and food supplies. They are quite independent and generally 

decline to work for strangers for less than $5 per day, and unless they are in need 

, of supplies they may refuse altogether.

On the Kanuti River is a similar fishing settlement of perhaps 75 Koyukuk 

natives. They are very generally supplied with food arid clothing of white 

manufacture through the work which they do for the Koyukuk miners, or by 

the exchange of game and furs for articles kept by the traders at the various 

stations.

KOWAK VALLEY.

Much the most enterprising and reliable of the native peoples encountered are 

the Eskimos of the Kowak Valley. Several young men belonging to this tribe were 

at work 011 the Koyukuk in 1901 and proved themselves v&ry efficient laborers, 

contrary to the usual rule among natives. One was engaged as a guide from 

Bergman to the head of the Kowak, and he remained with the party until Kotzebue 

Sound was reached. He proved himself an expert boatman and his' knowledge of 

the country was intimate, and, so far as could be determined, reliable. He 

seemed to take particular pains to answer inquiries truthfully. Others of his 

tribesmen had gone to Nome and to the Yukon in search of employment and its 

return in the much-coveted white man's food and wearing ajpparel. All the 

members of this tribe seem intelligent and imitative, and are very anxious to 

learn the English language and civilized ways. They are highly regarded by all 

of the whites who have visited the region in which they live.

The highest settlement of the Kowaks is near the outlet of Lake Selby, about 10 

miles above Pah River, and from this point down to Kotzebue Sound native houses 

are frequently seen and there are constant signs of their occupancy of the valley. 

The estimated total number living along the Kowak in 1901 was 250. Mr. Samms, 

the missionary on Kotzebue Sound, after a careful estimate made during the winter 

of 1898, placed the number livir.g in the valley at that time at 500. They are 

undoubtedly decreasing in numbers, but probably not at so rapid a rate as the 

difference in these estimates would indicate. Many of the prospectors who left the 

country in the spring of 1899 gave their outfits to natives, and these, believing that 

white men would continue to corne into the valley, did not make their usual preparations for winter, so that numbers perished from exposure and starvation-during the 

year or two following. Others have followed the white men to adjacent fields, and 

so there has been a decrease in the population of the valley without a decrease 

in the numbers of the tribe. A part of the difference may also be accounted for 

through the fact that Mr. Samins's estimate was made in winter, when all the 

Kowaks were in their winter homes, while the writer's was made during the 

summer season, when many were away on trading trips.
FORT HAMLTTST TO KOTZEBUE SOUND, ALASKA. 53

CIAMATE.

GENERAL.

Winter temperatures of 60° or 70° below zero are reached for a few days at a 

time in this interior region adjacent to the Arctic circle, but during these severely 

cold periods it is usually perfectly calm. The more dangerous times are those 

of higher temperatures and wind. At such times man can not face the gales and 

live. Much of the early and late winter weather, however, is not more severe 

than that in the north-central portion of the United States, and persons who have 

wintered on the Kowak or the Koyukuk prefer this season for the transportation 

of supplies and for travel generally, the air being dry and many days in each month 

bright and clear.

The summers are short but warm enough to be pleasant, the period from 

the middle of June to the middle of September, and in favorable years to October,' being available for travel by the waterways or for prospecting. June and 

July are usually bright and clear, but after August 1 rains are to be expected, 

which often continue until freezing weather in September. There are then a 

few weeks of bright, cool, clear weather intervening between the beginning of 

freezing and the beginning of snowfall, which. in mai^ respects are the pleasantest part of the year, the mosquitoes and gnats, such intolerable nuisances 

during the summer, having disappeared entirely.

OPEN' SEASON.

Lieutenant Stoney reports that in the fall of 1885 the Kowak River became 

clogged with ice on October 1, and that by the 13th it was frozen from bank to 

bank, and remained closed for the winter. In the spring of 1886 the ice cracked 

and began drifting on the 19th of May, and by June 3 the river was clear. In 

the fall of 1898 the ice did not begin to form until October 13. Three days 

later men and dogs were traveling over it. By June 1, 1899, the ice was gone. 

In the fall of 1900 the Ball River was frozen over on October 13,. and ice was 

running on the Yukon, but the latter stream did not close until November 5. 

The following spring the ice broke on the Yukon at the mouth of the Dall on 

May 24, and the latter river was clear on the 27th.

The ice breaks first near the sources of the streams, and gorges are formed 

as this loose ice packs against the main body in its passage downstream. In 

1901 the ice broke on the uppci1 Yukon at the foojb of Lake Laberge on May 

18. A steamer which left for Dawson on that date arrived at the latter city 

on the 23d, one day before the ice broke at Fort Hamlin and several days before 

the Yukon was navigable there. At Bergman, on the Koyukuk, the ice began 

to move on the 29th of May, and by the 6th of June the river was open for
54 FORT HAMLIN TO KOTZEBdE SOUND, ALASKA.

navigation. The Noatak is reported to free itself early in June ordinarily, but 

Kotzebue Sound is,icebound until a much later date, so that the Noatak can not 

be reached by water often for some weeks after it is clear. In favorable seasons 

the sound is free from ice early in July, but during unfavorable years it may 

remain closed until August, so that the Noatak natives, following the ice down 

that river, are sometimes compelled to camp at its mouth foi" a month before 

they can roach Kikitaruk, almost in sight across the entrance to Hotham Inlet.

METEOROLOGIC DATA.

In the following tables the immediately available meteorologic data for the 

Dall, Koyukuk, and Kowak river valleys are assembled.

Meteorologic observations on Koviak River and vicinity.

Month.

1885. 

July... 

Aug ... 

Sept . . . 

Oct.... 

NoV ... 

Dec....

1886. 

Jan.... 

Feb.... 

Mar . . . 

Apr. . . . 

May . . . 

June...

1898.

July...

Aug ...

1899. 

Feb...- 

1900. 

Oct...- 

Nov ... 

Dec....

1901. 

Jan.... 

Feb.... 

Mar ... 

Apr. . . . 

May . . .

Temperature.

Minimum 

recorded.

32 

32 

5 

- ^ 

-44 

-65

-70 

-65 

-38 

-22 

14 

32

-67

-21 

-43 

-55

-66 • 

-56 

-45 

— 4 

19

Maximum 

recorded.

70 

68 

69 

46 

15 

29

81 

26 

36 

49 

65 

74

10

44 

10 

6

18 

38 

23 

49 

70

Mean.

49 

47 

89 

16 

•• 9.5 

-12.4

-12.4 

-22.5 

- 3.8 

13 

35 

49

57.6

50.15

34.27

17 

-16.5 

-19

-31 

-22 

- I 

21 

38

Fair 

days.

4 

20 

12

28 

18 

14 

17 

13

Days 

of 

rain 

or 

snow.

16 

11

18 

12

7 

5 

0

6 

4 

11 

4 

3

Authority.

Lieutenant Stoncy 

.....do.......'....-

.....do............

.....do............

.....do............

.....flo...... ......

.....do.. .........

.....do............

.....do............

.....do............

.....do............

.....do............

McEhvaine.. .....

.....do............

.....do...........

.....do............ 

.....do............

.....do. ...........

.....do...-----.-.. 

.....do............

Locality.

.....do................

.....do................

.....do................

.....do................

.....do................

:....do................

.....do................

.....do................

.....do................

.....do.................

.....do....- ...........

.....do................

.....do................

.....do................

Mouth Ball River.... 

.....do................ 

.....do.-.....--.-...-.

.....do................

Mouth Ball River.... 

.....do................ 

.....do................

Comment.

Lieutenant Stoney publishes only 

temperatures, but these are summarized from records carefully 

made, with spirit thermometer.

The temperatures given as mean 

are means of the morning- and 

evening observations only. 

Observations taken three times 

per day. 

Observations made during thirty 

days only in May.
CLIMATE AND FISH AND GAME.

Meteorological observations on Kowak River and vicinity—Continued.

55

Month.

1885.

July . . .

Sept...

Temperature.

Minimum

corded.

49 5

qc K

41

Maximum

rs- • 

corded.

W C

80.75

08

55.5

Mean.

63

Cn

AQ

45

Fair 

days.

9

19

5

Days

of 

rain 

or

snow.

3

4

15

7

Observer.

Poto.TJ.S.G.S....

.....do............

.....do............

.....do............

Locality.

Kotzebue Sound ......

Comment.

Lowest record of minimum thermometer 33.5, June 24.

16, July 31.

Observations continued through

first nineteen days only.

FISH AND GAME.

Before, the advent of white men salmon were the main food of the natives 

of the Koyukuk and the Kowak. The fish, although perhaps decreasing in 

numbers, still run plentifully throughout the late summer and fall, and are dried 

for winter use, although through the advent of traders and stores they are of 

somewhat less importance to the natives as a food supply.

The Koyukuk Indians were found at their fishing stations about the middle 

of July, where they were awaiting the arrival of the salmon. Early in August 

this fish had ascended the Kowak to beyond the one hundred and fifty-fifth 

meridian and were abundant in the spawning grounds in the shallows of the 

river or its tributaries all along the stream from this point to the sea, and the 

natives, from Lake Selby down, were busy with their summer's catch.

A white fish of excellent flavor is netted along all of these rivers in summer, 

and numbers of pike are caught, especially in the delta of the Kowak and in the 

sloughs of this and other streams where their is but little current and water 

plants flourish. Greyling may be found in all of the clear-water streams and a 

large trout is present in the mountain lakes. A small salmon of most excellent 

flavor is caught in large numbers by the whites in Kotzebue Sound in September, 

and cured for their winter use. '

Waterfowl are plentiful along all of the streams, since they breed in great 

numbers in the lakes and pouds of the tundra, and while they are not evenly 

enough distributed to bo depended on for food, may often be shot in sufficient 

numbers to add a very agreeable variety to the bill of fare. We killed numbers 

of geese and ducks on the Kanuti Kiver and on the lower Kowak. The geese, 

while plentiful, are wary and difficult to capture unless hunting is made a business. 

Both the Canada goose and the American white-fronted goose were observed.
56 FORT HAMLIN TO KOTZEBUE SOUND, ALASKA.

Young ducks, just before migrating in the fall, are fat and easily shot. They 

are particularly abundant along the marshes of the coast. Widgeon, green-wing 

teal, pintail, butterballs, and harlequins are among the varieties recognized. 

Swans, sandhill cranes, snipe, and plover are seen, but less frequently. Probably 

the most valuable food bird, because of its very general distribution, is the willow 

ptarmigan. It is very abundant on the tundra, where it seeks shelter in the willow 

and alder patches, but is less abundant in the mountainous districts. Another somewhat smaller ptarmigan inhabits the rocky sides and tops of the mountain. It is less 

numerous and found in smaller coveys than the bird of the lowlands. A few Canada 

grouse live in the spruce forests.

There are caribou in the region about the head of the Kanuti River, and herds 

are occasionally reported on the hills between the upper Kowak nnd the Koyukuk, 

but the Kowak natives now are generally forced to cross over to the Noatak Basin, 

or eastward to the head of the Totsenbet River, in order to secure caribou skins for 

clothing. A few white mountain sheep are killed in the high country about the head 

of the Alien, the Colville, and the Kowak, but this game is not at all abundant. 

Black bear arc distributed, although not anywhere numerous, throughout the district, and some of the brown variety are shot along the lower Kowak and Noatak. 

Moose are not plentiful anywhere. They are more abundant toward the south and 

east in the Yukon drainage basin, where there is a heavier timber growth. Natives 

said that a few are known as far north as Chandlar Lake, in the Colville drainage 

basin. This is beyond the spruce limit, but cottonwood groves may give them the 

necessary shelter. At present they seem to be entirely absent about the upper 

Kowak, although it is but a few years since they occupied this region.

Smaller animals are plentiful in certain localities. The flesh of the muskrat, 

which is very abundant in the Kowak delta, is used as food by the Eskimos there, 

and its pelt is made into clothing when caribou or reindeer skins can not be obtained. 

Red and white foxes are caught in limited numbers, and occasionally marten, beaver, 

and mink skins are offered for sale.

VEGETATION.

Spruces, " cottonwoods," or poplars, and birches are to be found at the lower 

levels throughout the entire district traversed from Fort Yukon to Deering, with 

the single exception of the area along the southern and eastern shores of Kotzebue 

Sound. Spruce trees extend down half way through the Kowak delta and approach 

very close to the shores of Hotham Inlet, near the mouth of Noatak. On this 

river for a distance of 75 or 80 miles they are reported to grow in sufficient size 

and numbers for the construction of cabins.
U. S. GEOLOGICAL SURVEY PROFESSIONAL PAPER NO. 10 PL. IX

NEAR HEADWATERS OF HELPMEJACK CREEK, ABOUT 3 MILES BELOW BEGINNING OF KOWAK PORTAGE. 

Shows willow growth along streams and illustrates character of navigation along the approaches to the portage
VEGETATION. 57

Within the Kowak Valley the mountain slopes, up to an elevation of 2,000 

feet near the source of the stream, and to somewhat lower elevations near its 

mouth, are generally clothed with spruce, both the white and black varieties 

growing here. Along the flats of the middle valley trees occur only along the 

streams, or in clumps here and there, in spots where the drainage is bettor. 

Sixteen or 18 inches is about the maximum diameter attained, and the majority 

of the trees are smaller.

Birches grow in favorable localities on the lower hillsides, and poplars, 

including both balm of Gilead and the aspen, the latter less common than the 

former, on gravel knolls and ridges.

Many varieties of willows, varying in size from small trees to tin}7 shrubs but 

2 or 3 inches high, line the banks of the waterways, where the larger varieties 

frequently^ form dense thickets. Alders occur at the lower levels and on the 

mountain slopes well above timber line.

In the valleys of the Alien, Kanuti, and Dall rivers arboreal vegetation 

is similar to that along the Kowak, except that the timber line rises somewhat 

toward the south and east to about 2,500 feet on the Dall, and the trees increase 

slightly in size and numbers, while the treeless tundra areas are not so extensive.,.

Grasses grow in patches as far north as our work extended, and in sufficient

amount to furnish subsistence for pack animals during the summer months.

Rye grass, blue grass or red-top, and a variety of bunch grass may be mentioned

, as among the more usual species, and with them may be associated the coarse

cotton grass belonging to the sedge family.

Among the wild fruits of the region the red currant is sparingly distributed. 

The cloud berry, more usually called the salmon berry, grows on the tundra everywhere. The bilberry, one of the huckleberry family, is of very wide distribution, 

and the mountain and high-bush cranberries, as well as the bunch berry, are occasionally found. Docks and sorrels, whose leaves may be eaten, grow sparingly, 

and a species of hedysarum, with edible roots, known to the natives as "muchet," 

and used by them as a food, grows on sand and gravel bars along the streams.

The characteristic growth of the tundra is sphagnous, and the higher slopes 

and rocky tops of the mountains are' covered with mosses and lichens of many 

shades, from the white or cream of the reindeer moss to the dark greens, reds, 

and blacks of the other lichens and mosses. Hardy and often showy flowers are 

abundant during the short summer season and brighten up the rather somber 

landscape wonderfully.

Collections were made during the season by Mr. W. L. Poto when the exigencies of the other work permitted, and these have been submitted to Mr. Coville 

for identification.
58 FORT HAMLIX TO KOT55EBUE SOUND, ALASKA.

LIST OF PLANTS COLLECTED IN NORTHERN ALASKA BY W. L. POTO IN igoi.

Identified chiefly by FBEDERICK V. COVILLE and W. F. WIGHT.

POLYPODIACE.E (Fern family). 

DRYOPTERIS FRAGRANS (L.) Schott.

Fern quite common. Collected on Alien, Kanuti, and Kowak rivers.

FILIX FiiAGiLis (L.) Underwood.

Fern observed on bluffs near Kowak River, below mouth of Squirrel River. August 30.

WOODSIA GLABELLA R. Br.

Fern observed on bluffs near Kowak River, below mouth of Squirrel River. August 30.

WOODSIA ILVENSIS (L.) R. Br.

Fern observed on rocky cliff, 35 miles above the mouth of Alien River, near camp of- July 23.

PINACE2E (Pine family).

PICEA CANADENSIS (Mill.) B. S. P. White spruce. 

Variety of spruce found on lower half of Kowak River. Grow<§ to 40 or 50 feet high and 15

inches in diameter. Above mouth of Squirrel River. August 30. 

Collected also about 30 miles below "Walker Lake, near timber line.

FICEA MARIANA (Mill.) B. S. P. Black spruce. 

Near camp about 20 miles below Walker Lake. Usual variety of sprue 3 found in river bottoms. Grows to 40 or 50 feet high and 15 inches in diameter. August 14. 

Collected also on i)all River.

JlTNIPERUS.

Small creeping plant, 6 to 20 inches high. Observed occasionally in mossy places. Walker 

Lake. August 12.

POACEJ3 (Grass family). - .

ARCTAGROSTIS ARUNDINACEA ALASKANA Vascy.

Grass abundant along Helpmejack Creek, near camp above Beaver City. July 26.

CALAMAGEOSTTS CANADENSIS ACUMINATA Vasey?

Grass quite common in low places along portage between Kowak River and Helpmejack Creok, 

above Beaver City. August 3.

POA NEMOKAIAS L. Blue gl'ilSS. 

Collected about 10 miles below Caribou Mountain, July 8, and on the Alien.

Coi PODIUM FULVUM Trin.

' Observed in marshy place; Not very common. Abou* 20 miles below Walker Lake, near 

camp of August 14.

FESTUCA ALTAICA Trin. Bunch grass. 

Da!I River trail, near Ball City. June 29.

ELYMUS INNOVATUS Beal. Rye grass. 

Grass rather common on sandy bottoms, about 15 miles above mouth of Alien River, near 

camp of July 20.
VEGETATION. ^ 59

CYPEKACE^ (Sedge family).

ERIOPHORTJM CALLITIIRIX Chain. ? Cotton grass. 

Plant very common everywhere. Grows occasionally in. large patches. Collected about 50 

miles above Hotham Inlet, at camp of August 29.

CAREX MACROCH^TA Mey.

Kanuti River, near camp at Caribou Mountain. July 6.

CAREX UTRICTJLATA Boott.

Common along Helpmejack Creek, near camp above Beaver City. July 26. 

CAREX VULGARIS Fries.

Dall River trail, 4 miles above Ball City. June 29.

MELANTHACE.E (Bunch-flower family).

ZYOADENUS ELEGANS Pursh.

Plant quite common. Observed in moist places along river banks. About 3 miles below Walker 

Lake, near camp of August 10.

LILIACE^E (Lily family). 

ALLITJM SIBIRICUML. Onion.

Plant quite common on beach. Abundant on Koyukuk. Walker Lake. August 12.

IRIDACE^E (Iris family). 

IRIS SETOSA Pall.

Plant not common. Seen occasionally along banks in rather sandy plaqes. Near camp of August 

17, about 45 miles below Walker Lake.

ORCH1DACE.E (Orchid family).

HABENARIA OBTUSATA (Pursh) Richards.

Plant not common. Observed in sandy spot on Helpmejack Creek, near camp above Beaver City. 

July 26. -

SALICACE.E (Willow family). -

POPULUS BALSAMIFERA L. ' Balm of Gilcad,

Very common along rivers. Grows to about 40 feet high. Collected on Alien and upper Kowak

rivers. , , '.

POPULUS TKEMULOIDES Michx. Aspen. 

Tree seems to grow chiefly on low hills; up to 20 feet high. Bark light colored. Near camp,

about 10 miles below Walker Lake. August 13.

SALIX ALAXENSIS (Anders.) Coville. Alaska willow. 

Tall, slender willow, very common along river, from 12 to 25 feet high. Collected about 45

miles below Walker Lake, August 17, and on Dall River. 

SALIX ARBUSCULOIDES Anders.

Willow,.common, grows 10 to 20 feet tall; slender. August 28. Collected on Dall, Alien, and 

Kowak rivers.
60 FORT HAMLIN TO KOTZEBUE SOUND, ALASKA.

SALIX BEBBIANA Sargent.

Dall River, 65 miles above rnouth. 

SALIX FUSCESCENS Andcrs.

Willow small and creeping, from 3 to 10 inches high. Common in high places. Collected on

Kowak portage, between the Alien and Walker Lake. July 3. 

SALIX GLAUCA L.

Bushy willow, 3 to 10 feet high. Ccmmon along streams from the Yukon to the lower Kowak. 

SALIX PULCHRA Chain.

Willow quite common on the Alien and upper Kowak, generally about 6 feet high. Grows

in clumps. 

SALIX RETICULATA L.

Small plant, common on divide in mossy places. Headwaters of Kowak River. August 8. 

SALIX. . '

Dull River, 75 miles above month, June 25; Alien River, 30 miles above mouth, 2 to 4 feet 

high, July 21; along Helpmejack Creek, about 5 feet high, near camp of July 26; on bank 

of small stream near camp of August 20, about 4 feet high.

MYRICACE^E (Bayberry family).

MYRTCA GALE L. Sweet gale. 

Dall River, 75 niCes above mouth. June 25.

BETULACEJE (Birch family).

BETULA ALASKANA Sargent. Birch. 

Very common tree on mountain slopes; grows up to 50 feet high, trunk 7 or 8 inches in 

diameter. Bark white and papery.

BETULA GLANDULOSA ROTUNDIFOLIA (Spach) Rcgel. 

Dall River trail, 10 miles above Dall City. July I.

ALNUS ALNOBETULA (Ehrh.) Koch. Alder. 

Dall River, 35 miles above mouth, June 21.

POLYGONACE^E (Smartwced family).

KUMEX. . Dock. 

Plant not common. Observed in rather moist places. Grows from 15 to 30 inches high. 

Kanuti and Upper Kowak.

OXYRIA DIGYNA (L.) Camptd. • Mountain sorrel. 

Plant not common. Observed on gravel bank of Helpmejack Creek near camp above Beavei 

City. July 26.

POLYGONUM ALPINUM ALASKANUM Small. 

" Conspicuous plant JJ to 4 feet high, on moist hillsides near Alien River.

POLYGONUM PLUMOSUM Small.

Headwaters of Kanuti River, a branch of the Koyukuk. July 3.

POLYGONUM VIVIPAEUM L.

Plant observed frequently in moist places on Kowak River; near camp at Walker Lake. 

August 10.
VEGETATION. 61 

PORTULACACE.ZE (Portulaca family),

CLAYTONIA SAKMENTOSA C. A. Meyer.

Observed in low mossy place near Helpmejack Creek, near camp above Beaver City. July 26.

ALSINACE^E (Chickwced family).

ALSINM LONGIPES (Goldie) Coville.

Dall River trail, 3 miles above Ball City. June 29.

MEKCKIA PHYSODES Fisch.

Kanuti River, a branch of the Koyukuk. Collected about 10 miles below Caribou Mountain. 

JulyS.

ARENAKIA.

Kanuti River. Collected about 20 miles below Caribou Mountain. July 9. ,

AltENAKIA AKCTICA SteV.

Dall River trail, 12 miles above Dall City. July 1.

MOEHRINfilA LATERTFLOKA (L.) Fenzl. 

Dall River, 1 35 miles above mouth. June 21.

RANUNCULACE^E (Buttercup family.)

ACONITUM DELPHINIFOLIUM DC. Monkshood.

Flowers observed occasionally along Helpmejack Creek and Alien River.

ANEMONE RICHAKDSONI Hook. . 

Dall River, 75 miles above mouth. June 26.

PAP AVERAGES (Poppy family). .

PAPAVTCK KADIOATUM Rottb.

Kanuti River. Collected about 20 miles below Caribou Mountain. July 9.

CAPNOIDES PAUCITLORUM (Willd.) Kuntze.

Kanuti River, 4 miles above Caribou Mountain. July 6.

CAPNOIDES SEMPEKVIKEIS'S (L.) Kuntze.

Dall River trail, 3 miles above Dall City. June 29.

BRASSICACEJK (Mustard family).

SlSYMBRIUM.

Plant observed on hill, 2\ to 4 teet high. Along beach on Hoth^m Inlet, 6 miles from 

Quaker Mission. Not common. September 5. ,

CAKDAMINE.

Plant not common. Found in sandy places along Lower Kowak River.

ALYSSUM AMEBIOANUM Greene.

Kanuti Eiver. Collected about 10 miles below Caribou Mountain. July 8.

PAKRYA.

Kanuti River, 4 miles above Caribou Mountain. July 6. *
62 . FOJJT HAMLIN TO KOTZEBTTE SOUND, ALASKA.

SAXIFRAGACE^; (Saxifrage family). 

SAXIFRAGA.

Plant seen frequently on hillsides near Alien River. From 6 to 18 inches high.

SAXIFRAGA TRICUSPIDATA Retz.

Kanuti River. Collected about 10 miles below Caribou Mountain. July 8.

PAKNASSIA KOTZEBUEI Cham: aud Sohlccht.

Inconspicuous plant along Alien River in moist shady spots. July 23.

RIBACEJS (Currant family).

RISES UUDSONIANUM Richards.

Dall River, about 20 miles above the mouth. June 23.

RIBES KUBRUM L. Red currant. 

Dall River, 35 miles above mouth. Juno 21.

ROSACES (Rose family.) 

SPIRAEA BKTULIFOLIA Pall.

Dall River, near Dall City. Junf. 27.

RUBUS ARCT1CUS L.

Kanuti River. Collected about 20 miles below Caribou Mountain. July 9.

RUBUS CHAM^EMOKUS L. " Salmon berry," Cloud berry. 

Dall River, 55 miles above mouth. June 27.

POTENTTLLA FRUTICOSA L.

Dall River, 75 miles above mouth. June 26.

COMARUM I'ALUSTRE L.

Plant observed in low, marshy ground. Not common. About 20 miles below Walker Lake. 

August -14.

DRYAS INTEGKIFOLIA Vahl.

Dall River trail, 2 miles above Dall City. June 29.

.SANGUTSOKBA MEDIA L.

Plant rather common. Observed near upper Kowak River in sandy places; 15 to 30 inches high. 

August 13.

ROSA ACICULARIS Lindl.

Kanuti River. Collected about 10 miles below Caribou Mountain. July 8.

VICIACE^E (Vetch family). 

LUPINUS.

Dall River, 75 miles above mouth. June 26.

ASTRAGALUS ALPINUS L.

Dall River, 75 miles above mouth. June 26.

HEDYSARUM AMEEICANUM (Michx.) Britton.

Thirty milefl above mouth of Alien River. Very common. Observed frequently on Kanuti and 

Alien rivers, 12 to 24 inches high, in clusters. Root used Tor food by Indians, raw and 

cooked. Best after frost. Indian name "muchet." July 21.
VEGETATION. 63

VIOLACE^E (Violet family).

VIOLA LANGSDORFTI Fisch.

Kanuti iiiver, near headwaters. July 5.

ONAGRACE^E (Evening- primrose family).

CHAM.*:NEHION LATIFOLIUM (L.) Sweet. , Fire weed. 

Kanuti Iiiver. Collected about 10 miles below Caribou Mountain. July 8.

CORNACE2E (Dogwood family).

CORNTJS CANADENSIS L.

Plant found on portage between the'Alien and the Kowak. August 3.

PYROLACE^; (Wintergrecn family).

PYROLA ROTUNDIFOLIA L.

Ball River, 35 miles above mouth. June 21.

MONESES UNIFLORA (L.) Gray.

Plant not common. Observed in low mossy spot on Helpmejack Creek, above Beaver City. 

July 26.

ERICACEAE (Heather family).

LTCDUM UKCUMBENS (Ait.) Lodd.

Ball River, 75 miles above mouth. June 26.

CHAMTECISTUS PROCUMBENS (L.) Kuntze.

Ball River trail, 11 miles above Ball City. July 1.

(JASSIOPK TETRAGONA (L.) D. Don.

Ball River trail, 8 miles above Dall City. June ?0.

ANDROMEDA - POLIFOLIA L. ' " Wild rosemary.

Dall River trail, 4 miles from Dall City. June 29.

CIIAM^EDAPHNE CAi/fcuLATA (L.) Moench. Leather-leaf. 

Ball River, 75 miles above mouth. June 26.

VACCINIACE2E (Huckleberry family).

VACCINIUM ULIGINOSDM L. Bilbcrrj'.

Very generally distributed.

VACCINIUM VITIS-ID^A L. Mountain cranberry. 

Ball River, 75 miles above mouth. June 26.

PRIMULACE^E (Primrose family).

DODECATHEON FRiGiDUM Chain, and Schlecht. - Shooting star. 

Kanuti River, in the vicinity of Caribou Mountain. July 6.
64 • I'OBT HAMLIN TO KOTZEBUE SOUND, ALASKA.

GENTIANACE.& (Gentian family). 

GENTIANA.

Plant rare. Very few observed on sandy beach, Walker Lake. August 12.

POLEMONIACE^E (Polernoniurn family). 

PHLOX SIBIRIOA L.

Call River trail, 2 miles above Call City. June 29.

POLEMONITJM.

Kanuti Eiver, near the headwaters. July 5.

BORAGINACE^ (Borage family).

ERITRICHUM SPLENDENS Kearney.

Kanuti River. Collected about 15 miles below Caribou Mountain. July 6.

MERTENSIA PANICULATA (Ait.) Don.

Conspicuous blue flower in birch woods. Abundant. Call Eiver, 35 miles above mouth. June 21.

SCEOPHULARIACEJ5 (Fig-wort family).

CASTILLEJA PALLIDA Kunth.

Plant not common. Observed on bank in rather mossy place, 65 miles above mouth of Alien 

Eiver. July 23..

PEDICULARIS.

Plant not very common. Observed in mossy spot along Helpmejack Creek, above Beaver City. 

July 26.

PEDICTJLAKIS.

Headwaters of Kanuti Eiver. July 3.

PEDICULARIS LANATA Willd.

Ball River trail, 8 miles above Call City. June 30.

RUBIACEJE (Madder family). 

GALIUM BOUEALE L.

Flower quite common; found generally on rocky cliffs, Alien River. Collected on Kanuti Eiver. 

V1BURNACE2E (Honeysuckle family). '

VIBUKNTJM PAUCIFLORUM Pylaie. High-bush cranberry. 

Call Eiver, 75 miles above mouth. June 25.

LINN^EA BOREALIS L. Twin flower. 

Flower quite common in mossy places. Collected near Beaver City. July 26.

VALKRIANACE.3E (Valerian family).

VALERIANA CAPITATA Pall.

Flower quite common in moist places along Alien River and Helpmejack Creek. Collected 

above Beaver City. July 26.
VEGETATION. _ 65

CAMPANULAC.E2E (Bluebell family),

CAMPANULA LASIOOARVA Chsun.

Plant observed on hill at 2,000 feet. Upper Kovvak Hiver. Not very cuiiunon. August 14.

CICHORIACE^ (Chicory family).

TARAXACUM. Dandelion. 

Only two plants observed. About 15 miles above the mouth of Alien River. July 20.

CARDUACE^b; (Thistle family).

SOLIDAGO. Golden rod. 

Flower not very common. Collected on Walker Lake, and Alien River.

ANTENNARIA.

Ball River trail, 10 miles above Ball City. .Tuly 11.

MATKICAKIA INODOEA L.

Plant observed growing in clusters along beach at TSfimiuk Point, on tiotham Inlet. September 3,

TANACETUM.

Plant observed along bank of the lower Kowak. River in gravel.

ARTEMISIA TILKSII Ledeb.

Plant abundant along the Lower Kowak and Hoth'.nn Inlet, (irows 2 to 82 feet high. September 5. Upper Kowak River, 1J to 2^. feet high. August 10.

PKTASITES.

Kanuti River, near its source. July 5

ARNICA.

Call and Kanuti rivers.

SENECIO LTJGENS Richards.

Plant rather abundant. Grows from 1 to 2 feet high in sandy places, a few miles from Walker 

Lake. August 12.

SENECIO PSEUDO-ARNICA Less.

Plant observed on gravel beach along Koteebue Sound near Cape Blossom. September 7.

SAUSSURKA.

Plant rather abundant along Upper Kowak. 

9501—No. 10-02——5
INDEX.

	Page. 

Alaska, map of. — —— --....- —......_.---.---------- 7

Alder Creek, gold near..... .___-.___.__.-.--..-.-.. 51

Alien, E. T., assays by.----- — .---.--.---.--------.-. 51

Alien, H.T., work of.-----------...--....---.-------- 17

Alien Eiver,Bergman series on...................... 39

distances along Helpme j ack Creek and.-.-----.. 29

gold on.............J.......'...............----.... 50

topographic features along ...................... 24

unconsolidated deposits on....................... 44

Ambler Eiver, description of ............-..•...--.-.. 2t>

glaciation oil......-.----..---.---.-------.----•--- 48

Kenai series on .......................--------.--. 41

Andesites, occurrence of -----..-.--------.----.------ 43

Applegate, R. C., acknowledgments to..--.- -....--- 7

Basalt, occurrence of.-.---------....----.------------- 42

Boaver City, Bergman series near.....----------- 39

Bocchey, P. W., work of.-....-.-.....-.--..-------.-. 12

Bergman series, age ot................. --------- 40-41

localities and descriptions of..-...---.-------.---- 39

plate snowing........-.-. —....-...------...----. 34

structure of--------------------------------------- 40

Bertholf.E.P.,work of .--_------.---.-.--- --------- 16

Brooks, A. H.,cited..-..-----.------------------------ 31,32

Call,'S. J., work of..............._..._.-•....--------- 16

Candle Creek, gold on................-.---.--.----.- 51

Canon, W. W. von, acknowledgments to............ 7

Cantwell, .T.C.,work of......---..-.....-.-------- --- 15-16

Choris Peninsula, rocks on..__,_.....__._..----..---- 35

Clarke, P. W., cdted ...-..----.-------...------.--- 35

Climate, discussion of ......---....-.---.-----.------. 53-55

Coal, occurrenceof-----..--------.-.---.---- ---- 49

Coal Creeki lignite on ......--........-......-.---... 49

Tertiary sediments on, plate showing........... 42

Collier, A. J., cited ................................— 33,42

Colville River, course of--....--...---.....----.----. 21

Coville.F.V.,and Wight, W.F.,plantsidentified by. 58-65

DaU.W.H., work of........................I.......... 17

Dall, W. H., and Harris, G-. D., cited................ 45

Dull River, coal on . ——...... ——........ —..-.-... 49

distances along .........-.--.......--.---..--..--- 28

gold on -........---.---.-----.----.---------------- 50

Kenai series on ......._.-----.--...-..------------ 41

Metamorphic complex on .-...---..-----.----.-.. 32-33

natives on..-......-.---.-----------..-.----------- 51

routes via Kanuti River and _-...----.-.-----.. 23

topographic features along ...................... 21-22

unconsolidated deposits on....................... 43

veins near........_...-..-----..----------------..- 36-37

view on.-...--..-------------.--------------------- 10

Distances, method of determining-.................. 19

tables of..............--- — ---..--.-----.-----. 27-30

Elevations, method of determining.................. 19

Endicott Mountains, description of.................. 20

Explorations, account of--....... —.........--.--... 11-18

Fish and game, amount of ..........-.._...-.---...-. 55-56

Fort Hamlin, distances between Fort Yukon and,

table of..........— ..........-. — — - — - 27

Page. 

Fort Yukon, distances between Fort Hamlin and,

table of.................................... 27

G-arne and fish, amount of_._^........................ 55-58

Geography, discussion of............................. 20-21

Gerdine, T. G., reference to........................... 20

work of............................................ 17

Glaciation, discussion of ............................. 45^t8

Gold, occurrenceof................................... 50-51

Goodrich, H. B., work of................_.......... ' 17

Helpme jack Creek, distances along Alien River and. 29 

glaeiation near --------- -............._........... 46

Metamorphio complex near -...--.-..---...____.. 33-34

view near headwaters of......................... 58

Hobson, W. R., work of .............................. 14

Homan, C. A., work of ............................... 17

..........................I.... 45

--........-....--... 31)

Hooper, C. L.,cited..............................1....

Hotham Inlet, distances on -_...------_.--.---.-.._..

Intrusives in metamorphic complex, description

of.......................................... 33

Itinerary, description of ............................. 8-11

Jarvis,D. H., work of .....-.__..._._..-...-._...'._.._• 16

Kanuti River, basalt on .............................. 42

Bergman series on.......--.-.__--------....-_.... 39

distances along ................................... 28

natives on......................................... 52

routes via Dall River and ........................ 23

topographic features along ...................... 22-23

unconsolidated deposits on....................... 43-44

Kanuti series, age and equivalents of . _--_...-..._._ 38 

description of..................................... 37-38

interrelations of .................................. 38

Kellett, H., work of .................................. 12

Kenai series, age of..--------......--------......--- 42

localities and descriptions of..................... 41-42

structure of....................................... 48

Kennicott, R., work of ............................... 17

Kichaiakaka Creek, distances ulona Kowak River

and........................................ 29-80

Knowlton, F. H., fossils determined by ............. 42

Kogoluktuk River, description of ................... 26

rocks exposed near ............................... 34

Kotzebue, O, von, work of ........................... 11-12

Kotzebue Sound, distances along.................... 30

gold on............................................ 50-51

Metamorphic complex on .--..---------.--.--.--- 36

topographic features near........-.----....----.-- 27

unconsolidated deposits on....................... 45

veins near.__.._._--.---_....-.-.-.--------.------- 37

Kowak River i Bergman series on --.._-.-..---.--.--- 39 

plate showing........_....-------------..--.-- 34

coal on.-.....-•----------..-----.---.--------.---- 49

distances along Kichaiakaka Creek and......... 29-30

gold on..--.-..-----.---.-- —— ---...---.-----.-... 50

gorge of, view of lower end of--.-------------..- U

Kenai series on ................................... 41

Metamorphic complex near._....----............ 33-35

nativesin valley of......--.--------------.._.-... 52

67
68 INDEX.

I'age. 

Kowak Biver, topographic features along .......... 35-27

unconsolidated deposits on. ——...._........._.._ 44-45

view on.------------------------------------------ . 31

Kowak-Allen portage, map of _.._,__ ._......___ ._.. 38

Koyukuk Biver, course of ......._.._........-. -.-.. 21

distances along ............._. ._..-..__..----.-.. 28

Laberge, Lake, views on.....__.____..........__..-.. 8,10

Lake. Sec next word of name,.

Lavas, agoof------.---------.------------- ---------- 43

occurrence and character of-... - --------------- 42-43

Lopp, W. T., workof-----_-~------ — .._.- .- 18

Mollwainc, E., cited----------..--- _-.--.-..-- ----- 16

Merrill, G.P.,cited..._.........._..__-.-..._ -__-.... 35

Metamorphic complex.age of------------ _. ----.... 32

general statement concerning-------- ....... 31-33

inDallBiverarea------------------ ------------- 32-33

inKotzebue Sound area.--.---------------------- 35-36

in Kowak area --.---------.--.--.---.. 33-35

intrusives of--..-----.__----_------------------.-. 33

structure of..-.. --.-..---.------.---_-- 30

veinsin-----.-------------.------ ----------------- 3ft-57

Methods of work, description oi'--__-----.__-------- 18-19

Moore, T. E. L., work of............_......_ _-.„..._ 13

Natives, mimber and character of. ___.-._ .--.___ 51-52 

Nelson,E. W., reference to.-------------------------- 45

Noatak Biver, course Of.-.-.--------.--- ---.----. .. 21

gold on-------------------- --.-.-.---.- 50

Nutavukti Lake, topographic fe.ttu.'CH ..or.r .._ ._.. 25 

Open season, duration of--.-----.---.---__--.- 53-54

P.:h Biver,description of.__._......____._....._...... 26

P m. B., work of.........._...........-_--.....-..__.. 13

Plants collected, list of.--------------------..----_.-..58-65

Poto, W. L., acknowledgments to .__...---._--.___-. 7 

plants collected by-----------.-----------------.-- 58-65

Prindle, L. M., information furnished by _-.-.--,. 34,41

Baymond, O. P., work of.........._.........__........

Beaburn, D. L., reference to._-.---....-.-..-..

Beaburn, W. B., acknowledgments to. -------

Boed Biver, moraine near. -___.._-._.--...-- 

Bovine, George, acknowledgments to ----_---.

Russell, I. C.,cited .......................

work of-------- ........................

Schrador, F. C., cited------.-----;--...--------..-- 31

work of- --...-..........._............__....._.....

Sohwatka, F., reference to. _..-.-__-._---......_.-..

Selby, Lake, rocks exposed near- ............

Shingnok Creek, rocks exposed near ...........

Simpson, John, work of _......._..-....--._....._-...

Spurr, J. E., cited -.........-............_......_._...

work of. .......................... ..............

Squirrel Biver, rocks exposed near____,.._. _... ....

Stoney, Q. M., cited ...--_........._......_......._.._

work of......--....---._.............._.._...._ ...

Page. 

10-17

Tertiary sediments, view of . 

Trollope, ———, work of ..... 

Turner, L. M., cited._-----...

Unconsolidated deposits, occurrence cr.cl character

Of -.-------.--...-...-.............._......

Vegetation, character of ...--__...._._....._.........

Veins in Metamorphic complex, description o^ . _ _ _ 

Walker Lake, glaciation near... -----_,.--.______ .._.

rapids at ou tie t of, plate showing. . .._....'.._.._.

rocks exposed near .------...---._._.-.__...__ _..

topographic features near ...... _ ._.._..._.._..

view of -__--------___--.____._. ---_._-_,_...._._...

Wight, W. F., and Covllle, F. V., plants identified

Wynkoop, B. J., acknowledgments to. 

Yukon Flats,. description of ............

Yukon Valley, natives in. ........ __

48

7

45

17

,32,40

17

34

34

13

31,38

17

53

14J5 

42 

14 

45

43-45 

56-57 

86-37 

47 

43 

34 

85 

14

. 58-05 

50 

43

. 51-52

O
PUBLICATIONS OF UNITED STATES GEOLOGICAL SURVEY.

[Professional Paper No. 10.]

The serial publications of the United States Geological Survey consist of (1) Annual Reports, (2) 

Monographs, (3) Professional Papers, (4) Bulletins, (5) Mineral Resources, (6) Water-Supply and 

Irrigation Papers, (7) Topographic Atlas of the United States—folios and separate sheets thereof, (8) 

Geologic Atlas of the United States—folios thereof. The classes'numbered 2, 7, and 8 are sold at cost 

of publication; the others are distributed free. A circular giving complete lists may be had on 

application.

The Bulletins, Professional Papers, and Water-Supply Papers treat of a variety of subjects, and the 

total number issued is large. They have therefore been classified into the following series: A, Economic geology; B, Descriptive geology; C, Systematic geology and paleontology; D, Petrography and 

mineralogy; E, Chemistry and physics; F, Geography; G, Miscellaneous; H, Forestry; I, Irrigation; 

J, Water storage; K, Pumping water; L, Quality of water; M, Methods of hydrographic investigations; N, Water power; O, Underground waters; P, Hydrographic progress reports. This bulletin is 

the twentieth in Series A and the twenty-third in Series B, the complete lists of which follow. (B= 

Bulletin, PP=Professional Paper, WS=Water-Supply Paper.)

SERIES A, ECONOMIC GEOLOGY.

B 21. Lignites of Great Sioux Reservation: Report on region between Grand and Morean rivers, Dakota, by Bailey Willis,

1885. 16 pp., 5 pis. 

li 4(1. Nature and origin of deposits of phosphate of lime, by R. A. F. Penrose, jr., with introduction by N. S. Shaler. 1888.

143pp. 

B 05. Stratigraphy of the bituminous coal field of Pennsylvania, Ohio, and West Virginia, by Israel 0. White. 1891. 212

pp., 11 pis. (Exhausted.)

B 111. Geology of Big Stone Gap coal field of Virginia and Kentucky, by Marius R. Campbell. 1893. 106 pp., 6 pis. 

B 1S2. The disseminated lead ores of southeastern Missouri, by Arthur Winslow. 1896. 31pp. 

B 138. Artesian-well prospects in Atlantic Coastal Plain region, by N. H. Barton. 1896. 228 pp., 19 pis. 

B 139. Geology of Castle Mountain mining district, Montana, by W. H. Weed and L. V. Pirsson. 1896. 164 pp., 17 pis. 

B 143. Bibliography of clays and the ceramic arts, by John C. Branner. 1896. 114 pp. 

B 164. Reconnaissance on the Rio Grande coal fields of Texas, by Thomas Wayland Vaughan, including a report on igneous

rocks from the San Carlos coal field, by E. C. E. Lord. 1900. 100 pp., 11 pis. and maps. 

B 178. El.Paso tin deposits, by Walter Harvey Weed. 1901. 15 pp., 1 pi.

B 180. Occurrence and distribution of corundum in United States, by J. H. Pratt. 1901. 98 pp., 14 pis. 

B 182. A report on the economic geology of the Silverton quadrangle, Colorado, by F. L. Ransome. 1901. 266 pp., 16 pis. 

B 184. Oil and gas fields of the western Interior and northern Texas Coal Measures of the Upper Cretaceous and Tertiary

of the western Gulf coast, by George I. Adams. 1901. 64 pp.,10 pis.

B 193. The geological relations and distribution of platinum and associated metals, by J. F. Kemp. 1902. 95 pp., 6 pis. 

B 198. The Berca grit oil sand in the Cadiz quadrangle, Ohio, by W. T. Griswold. 1902. 43pp. 1 pi. 

PP 1. Preliminary report on the Ketchikan mining district, Alaska, with an introductory sketch of the geology of southeastern Alaska, by Alfred Hulse Brooks. 1902. 120.pp., 2 pis.

B 200. Reconnaissance of the borax deposits of Death Valley and Jlohave Desert, by M. R. Campbell. 1902. 23 pp., 1 pi. 

B 202. Tests for gold and silver in shales from western Kansas, by Waldemar Lindgren. 1902. 21 pp. 

PP 2. Reconnaissance of the northwestern portion of Seward Peninsula, Alaska, by A. J. Collier. 1902. 70 pp., 11 pis. 

Pf 10. Reconnaissance from Fort Hamlin to Kotx.ebue Sound, Alaska, by way of Dall, Kanuti, Alien, and Kowak rivers,

by W. C. Mendcnhall. 1902. 68 pp., 10 pis.
II PUBLICATIONS OF UNITED STATES GEOLOGICAL SURVEY.

SERIES K, DESCRIPTIVE GEOLOGY.

B 23. Observations on the junction between the Eastern sandstone and the Iveweenaw series on Kewceimw Point, Lake

Superior, by E. T). Irving and T. C. Chamberlin. 1885. 124 pp., 17 pis. 

B 33. Notes on geology of northern California, by J. 8. Diller. 1886. 23 pp.

B 39. The upper beaches and deltas of Glacial Lake Agassiz, by Warren Upham. 1887. 84 pp., 1 pi. 

B 40. Changes in river courses in Washington Territory due to glaciation, by Bailey Willis. 1887. 10 pp., 4 pis. 

B 45. The present condition of knowledge of the geologyof Texas, by Robert T. Ilill. 1887. 94pp. 

B 63. The geology of Nantucket, by Nathaniel Southgate Shaler. 1SS9. 56 pp., 10 pis. 

B 67. A geological reconnaissance in southwestern Kansas, by Robert Hay. 1890. 49 pp., 2 pis. 

B 68. The glacial boundary in western Pennsylvania, Ohio, Kentucky, Indiana, and Illinois, by George Froderick

Wright, with introduction by Thomas Clirowder Chamborlin. 1890. 112 pp., 8 pis.

B 07. The relations of the traps of the Newark system in the New Jersey region, by Nelson Horatio Darton. 1890. 82 pp. 

H 104. (iliiciation of the Ycllowstone Valley north of the Park, by Walter Harvey Weed. 1893. 41 pp., 4 pis. 

BIOS. A geological reconnaissance in central Washington, by Israel Cook Russell. 1893. 108 pp., 12 pis. 

B 119. A geological reconnaissance in northwest Wyoming, liy George Homaiis Eldridge. 1894. 72 pp., 4 pis. 

B 137. The geology of the Fort Riley Military Reservation and vicinity, Kansas, by Robert Hay. 1890. 3o pp., 8 pis. 

B 14-1. The moraines of the Missouri Cotcau and their attendant deposits, by James Edward Todd. 1800. 71 pp., 21 pis. 

B 158. The moraines of southeastern Soutli Dakota and their attendant deposits, by J. E. Todd. 1899. 171 pp., 27 pis. 

B 159. The geology of eastern Berkshire County, Massachusetts, by B. K. Emerson. 1899. 139 pp., 9 pis. 

B 305. Contributions to the geology of Maine, by Henry S. Williams and Herbert K, Gregory.^ 1900. 212 pp., 14 pis. 

WS 70. Geology and water resources of the Patrick a,nd Goshen Hole quadrangles in eastern Wyoming and Western

' Nebraska, by George I. Adams. 1902. 50 pp., 11 pis.

B 199. Geology and water resources ol the Snake River Plains of Idaho, by Israel C. Russell. 1902. 192 pp., 25 pis. 

1'P 1. Preliminary report on the Ketchikan mining district, Alaska, with an introductory sketch of the gcologj- of

southeastern Alaska, by Alfred Hnlse Brooks. 1902. 120 pp., 2 pis.

PP 2. Reconnaissance of the northwestern portion of Seward Peninsula, Alaska, by A. J. Collier. 1902. 70 pp., 11 pis. 

FP3. Geology ami petrography of Crater Lake National Park, byj. 8. Diller ami H. B. Patton. 3902. 107 pp., 19pis. 

PP 10. Reconnaissance from Fort Hamliii to Kotzcbue Sound, Alaska, by way of Dall, Kanuti, Alien, and Kowak rivers,

by \V. C. Meiidcnhall. 1902. 08 pp., 9 pis. . . •

Correspondence should lie addressed to

TJIE DIRECTOR,

UNITED STATUS GEOLOGICAL SURVEY,

WASHINGTON, D. C. 

DECEMBER, 3902.