© Copyright 2011, SIG Mfg. Co., Inc.

Wingspan: 80.5 in. (2044.7 mm)

Wing Area: 1180 sq.in. (76.1 dm2)

Length: 64.75 in. (1644.6 mm)

Flying Weight: 6 - 6.5 lbs. (2722-2948 g)

Wing Loading: 11.7 - 12.7 oz./sq.ft. (36-39 g/dm2)

Radio: 4 Channel with 5 Standard Servos

Glow:

.40-.46 cu.in. (6.5-7.5 cc) 2-Stroke Engine

.50-.61 cu.in. (8.1-10 cc) 4-Stroke Engine

Electric:

500 watt (3528-1000kv) Motor
1

ASSEMBLY MANUAL

INTRODUCTION

Congratulations on your purchase of the KADET SENIOR EG

ARF. The KADET SENIOR has a long and illustrious history in R/C

flying. It originally came on the scene in the early 1980s, designed

by AMA Hall of Fame modeler Claude McCullough. The first

KADET SENIOR was a build-it-yourself kit for 3-channel control -

elevator, rudder, and throttle, with no ailerons.

The KADET SENIOR rapidly earned a reputation as the easiest to

fly R/C trainer in the world. Tens of thousands of newcomers

successfully learned to fly R/C with a KADET SENIOR. In

addition, the versatile KADET SENIOR has been “kit bashed” for

use in many other applications besides training - like float flying,

banner and glider tow, aerial cameras, lights for night flying, etc.

Many builders added ailerons to their wing for “full house” control.

The KADET SENIOR’S light wing loading and slow flight

characteristics are perfect for all these applications.

This ARF (almost ready to fly) version of the KADET SENIOR is

100% true to the original’s outstanding flying characteristics, yet

gets you into the air quickly. It also comes with ailerons as

standard equipment! To make the ailerons more effective, the

dihedral angle has been reduced from the original design. To

make the airplane IMAA legal, the wingspan has been increased

to 80-1/4". The increased span also increased the wing area to a

huge 1180 sq. inches! The radio compartment in the fuselage is

roomy enough for almost anything that you might want to carry

aloft. All of this lifting capability still only requires a .40 - .46 

2-stroke engine, a .50 - .61 4-stroke engine, or a 500 watt electric

motor, to fly the airplane well.

We urge you to read this assembly manual completely before

assembly. Familiarize yourself with the parts and their assembly

sequences. The successful assembly and flying of this airplane is

your responsibility. If you deviate from these instructions, you may

wind-up with problems later on.

If this is your first R/C Aircraft PLEASE READ THIS!

As already mentioned, the KADET SENIOR ARF is a perfect

model for learning to fly R/C. However, it is important to

understand that if you have never flown an R/C model before, you

will need to find a qualified R/C flight instructor to test fly the

airplane and teach you how to fly it. If this is your first radio control

model airplane, DO NOT attempt to fly it by yourself without a

qualified instructor.

ADDITIONAL ITEMS YOU WILL NEED TO PURCHASE

In addition to this kit, you will need the following items to complete

your KADET SENIOR and make it flyable.

❑ RADIO SYSTEM

The KADET SENIOR ARF requires a standard 4-channel radio

system and five standard servos. In addition, you'll need (2) 24"

Servo Extensions and (1) servo Y-Harness for connection of the

two aileron servos to the receiver.

❑ POWER SYSTEM - GLOW OR ELECTRIC?

The biggest decision you will have to make is whether to power

your KADET SENIOR with a glow engine (2-stroke or 4-stroke) or

an electric motor. We have flown the KADET SENIOR on a variety

of both types of power systems, and we make the following

recomendations based on our successful on-field experience.

GLOW POWER RECOMMENDATIONS

❑ ENGINE

We recommend the following size for the KADET SENIOR ARF.

2-STROKE - .40 to .46 cu. in.

4-STROKE - .50 to .61 cu. in.

Don’t let the large size of the KADET SENIOR fool you! Due to it’s

huge wing area, very light wing loading, and slow flight envelope,

these engines will provide ideal power for training or general sport

flying the KADET SENIOR. In fact, we can tell you that we have

flown a SENIOR carrying a half gallon of fuel on cross-country

flights using a 1970s vintage classic K&B 40 (non-schnuerle)

engine, without problem. Don’t overpower the KADET SENIOR!

Whatever brand engine you choose, take the time to carefully

break it in according to the manufacturer's instructions. A good

running, reliable engine is a minimum requirement for the

enjoyment of this or any R/C model aircraft.

NOTE: If you intend to use your KADET SENIOR for “heavy lifting”,

or choose a larger engine than listed above, please use caution.

The light wing loading and light structure of the slow flying KADET

SENIOR is designed to handle normal flight loads when using the

above recommended engines for training and sport flying. If larger

engines are used that result in higher speeds, or if heavy loads are

being carried, the modeler is responsible for taking steps to

reinforce the high stress points of the airplane to insure its

structural integrity under those abnormal flight loads.

❑ PROPELLER FOR GLOW

Refer to the engine manufacturer’s instructions for

recommendations on proper propeller size for their engine. In our

experience, most 2-stroke .40-.46 glow engines will fly the KADET

SENIOR very nicely with a 10x6 or 11-6 prop.
2

ELECTRIC POWER RECOMMENDATIONS

❑ 500 watt BRUSHLESS OUTRUNNER MOTOR

We use the Maxx Products HC3528-1000 Brushless Outrunner

Motor. dia.: 35mm

length: 54mm

weight: 197g (6.9 oz.)

Kv = 1000

Rm = .020

Lo = 2.6

❑ MOTOR MOUNT

We use the Maxx Products #ACC3958 Large Motor Mount. This

plastic cone-shaped mount provides the exact firewall-to-propeller

distance needed to fit inside the KADET SENIOR cowling, without

modifications. If you go shopping for another brand mount, you will

need a mount that can provide 4-1/2" from the front of the firewall

to the back of the propeller (or spinner if being used).

❑ 50-60 amp ESC (Electronic Speed Control)

We use the Castle Creations ICE 50 ESC or the Castle Creations

Phoenix 60 ESC. We typically see amp draw of 30 to 48 amps,

depending on whether a 3 cell or 4 cell lipo is being used, and the

propeller size.

NOTE: The Castle Creations ESCs that we used, as well as the

many of the other ESCs on the market, have a BEC (Battery

Eliminator Circuit) built in. BEC allows you to use the same battery

pack to power both your motor and your radio system, eliminating

the normal radio battery pack. As the dual purpose battery runs

down in flight, the BEC circuit in the ESC will shut down the motor

and leave enough power to operate the radio while you land the

model. However, the BEC feature in many ESCs does not work

with 4 cell lipo battery packs - only 3 cell packs. Check the manual

of your particular ESC to learn if this is true in your case.

If your ESC is only rated for 3 cell operation, you have three

options: 1) fly only 3 cell lipo packs; 2) install the normal radio

battery pack to run the radio full time; or 3) install an aftermarket

BEC that is rated for 3 or 4 cells. We wanted to be able to fly both

3 cell and 4 cell packs interchangeably, so we elected to use the

normal radio battery pack, since we already had it and the little bit

of extra weight is no problem for the KADET SENIOR. We then

disabled the BEC feature of our Castle ESC, since we no longer

needed BEC. Disabling the BEC allows the speed control to be

used with both 3 cell and 4 cell packs without problems. A

common way to disable BEC in many ESCs is to remove or clip the

middle wire from the plug on the ESC that goes into the radio

receiver - see your ESC manual for more guidance.

❑ 3 or 4 cell 5300mah LITHIUM-POLYMER BATTERY PACK

With the Maxx Products HC3528-1000 motor we use 3 cell (3S1P)

5300mAh or 4 cell (4S1P) 5300mAh Li-po packs. A 3 cell pack

(11.1 volts) provides flight performance similar to a .40 glow

engine. A 4 cell pack (14.8 volts) provides flight performance

similar to a .46 glow engine. We find that 5300mAh lipo packs

provide between 10 to 18 minutes of flight time, depending on

propeller selection and other factors (quality of pack, throttle

management, outside temperature, etc.). CAUTION: You must

match your propeller size to the cell count of your lipo pack, to

avoid drawing too many amps and damaging your ESC or motor.

❑ PROPELLER FOR ELECTRIC

With a 3-cell (3S1P) 11.1v lipo pack, we recommend an APC

11x7E, APC 11x8E, or APC 12x6E propeller for the Maxx

Products HC3528-1000 motor. All three sizes delivered good

performance, very reminiscent of a 2-stroke .40 glow engine. For

a starting prop we recommend the APC 12x6E. Other brand

propellers of same size and similar design can also be used.

NOTE: Your results may vary due to other factors - the specs of

your individual motor and battery pack, etc. You may need to

experiment with different props to find your best combination.

With a 4-cell (4S1P) 14.8v lipo pack, we recommend an APC

10x6E, APC 10x7E, or APC 11x5.5E propeller for the Maxx

Products HC3528-1000 motor.. All three sizes delivered good

performance, very reminiscent of a 2-stroke .46 glow engine. For

a starting prop we recommend the APC 10x6E. Other brand

propellers of same size and similar design can also be used.

Hi-Maxx "COMBO 40" Complete System

Maxx Products, the manufacturer of the motor that we used in this

manual, markets a "Combo 40" electric motor system. The Maxx

"Combo 40" package consists of (1) Hi-Maxx HC3528-1000

Brushless Outrunner Motor; (1) Prop Adapter Assembly; (1) Castle

Creations 50 Amp Speed Control (ESC); and (1) APC 12-6E

Propeller. It's a good system for the KADET SENIOR.

Maxx Products, Inc.

815 Oakwood Rd.

Lake Zurich, IL 60047

Web: www.maxxprod.com

Ph: 847-438-2233

REQUIRED TOOLS

For proper assembly, we suggest you have the following tools and

materials available:

A selection of glues - SIG Thin, Medium, & Thick CA Glue

CA Accelerator, CA Debonder

SIG Kwik-Set 5-Minute Epoxy

Screwdriver Assortment

Pliers - Needle Nose & Flat Nose

Diagonal Wire Cutters

Small Allen Wrench Assortment

Pin Vise for Small Dia. Drill Bits

Hobby Knife with Sharp #11 Blades

Small Power Drill With Selection of Bits

Dremel® Tool With Selection of Sanding & Grinding Bits

Scissors

Sandpaper

Heat Iron & Trim Seal Tool

Masking Tape

Paper Towels

Alcohol and/or Acetone For Epoxy Clean-up 

COMPLETE KIT PARTS LIST

The following is a complete list of all parts contained in this kit.

Before beginning assembly, we suggest that you take the time to

inventory the parts in your kit. Use the check-off boxes (❑)

provided in front of each part description. Please also note that

the bolts and nuts required to mount your engine to the motor

mounts are not included and must be purchased separately.

❑ (1) Fuselage

❑ (1) Right Wing Panel & Aileron, hinged

❑ (1) Left Wing Panel & Aileron, hinged

❑ (1) Horizontal Stabilizer & Elevator, hinged

❑ (1) Vertical Fin & Rudder, hinged

❑ (1) Cowling with (4) M2.6 x 10mm PWA Mounting Screws

Main Landing Gear

❑ (2) 5mm dia. Main Landing Gear Wires

❑ (2) 3-1/2" Dia. Main Wheels

❑ (2) Nylon Landing Gear Retaining Straps
3

❑ (4) M2.5 x 16mm PWA Screws

❑ (2) 5mm I.D. Plastic Wheel Spacers

❑ (2) 5mm I.D. Wheel Collars with Set Screws

Nose Gear Assembly

❑ (1) 4mm dia. Nose Gear Wire

❑ (1) 3-3/8" Dia. Nose Wheel

❑ (1) Nylon Nose Gear Steering Bracket

❑ (1) Nylon Nose Gear Steering Arm with Set Screw

❑ (4) M3 x 18mm Mounting Bolts

❑ (4) M3 Flat Washers

❑ (1) 4mm I.D. Plastic Wheel Spacer

❑ (1) 4mm I.D. Wheel Collar with Set Screw

Spinner Assembly

❑ (1) 2" dia. Black Spinner Cone

❑ (1) 2" dia. Black Spinner Backplate

❑ (1) Prop Adapter Rings

❑ (2) T3 x 10mm Phillips-Head Mounting Screws

Clear Plastic Side Windows

❑ (1) Side Window, Right Front

❑ (1) Side Window, Right Rear

❑ (1) Side Window, Left Front

❑ (1) Side Window, Left Rear

Aileron Servo Hatches

❑ (1) Right Aileron Servo Hatch, covered

❑ (1) Left Aileron Servo Hatch, covered

❑ (4) 3/8” x 3/4” x 3/4” Hardwood Servo Mounting Blocks

❑ (8) M2.6 x 8mm PWA Screws for servo hatches

❑ (4) M2 x 8mm PWA Screws for servo blocks

Control Horns

❑ (4) Nylon Control Horns; for ail(2); elev(1); rud(1)

❑ (2) Nylon Control Horn Bases; for elev(1); rud(1)

❑ (4) M2 x 20mm Mounting Bolts; for rud & elev control horns

❑ (4) M2.6 x 16mm PWA Screws; for aileron control horns

Pushrods

❑ (1) 3/8” dia. x 33-1/2” Wood Elevator Pushrod

❑ (1) 3/8” dia. x 22” Wood Rudder Pushrod

❑ (2) 1/8” O.D. x 19-3/4” Nylon Inner Pushrod Tubes;

for throttle & nose gear

❑ (4) Heat Shrink Tubing

❑ (1) 2mm x 1-5/8” Pushrod Wire; threaded on one end, with

"Z-bend" on other end; for nose gear

❑ (2) 2mm dia. x 3-5/8” Pushrod Wires; threaded on one end

with "Z-bend" on other end; for ailerons

❑ (2) 2mm dia. x 4” Pushrod Wires; threaded on one end

with "Z-bend" on other end; for rud & elev (servo end)

❑ (2) 2mm dia. x 11-3/4” Pushrod Wires; threaded on one end;

for rud & elev (tail end)

❑ (3) M2 x 7/8” Threaded Studs; for nose gear pushrod

(servo end) & throttle pushrod (both ends)

❑ (7) Metal R/C Links; for ail(2); rud(1); elev(1); thr(2);

nose gear (1)

Miscellaneous

❑ (1) 5/16” x 3/4” x 4-9/16” Balsa Stick, for Fuel Tank Retainer

❑ (2) 1/4-20 x 1-1/2" Nylon Wing Bolts 

❑ (1) Aluminum Front Wing Joiner Blade

❑ (1) Steel Rear Wing Joiner Pin

❑ (1) Decal Sheet

Fuel Tank for Glow Engine

❑ (1) Fuel Tank Body - 350cc (11.8 oz.)

❑ (1) Rubber Stopper

❑ (1) Metal Front Clamp

❑ (1) Metal Rear Clamp

❑ (1) M3 x 18mm Bolt

❑ (1) Metal Clunk Pick-Up

❑ (1) Fuel Tubing, inside tank

❑ (1) Aluminum Tube - 3mm od x 60mm

❑ (1) Aluminum Tube - 3mm od x 50mm

❑ (1) Aluminum Tube - 3mm od x 40mm

Engine Mounts for Glow Engine

❑ (1) Right Engine Mount

❑ (1) Left Engine Mount

❑ (4) M3 x 20mm Mounting Bolts

❑ (4) M3 Flat Metal Washers

NOTE: “PWA Screws” are metal screws with a phillips/washer

style head.

Your KADET SENIOR ARF is covered with OracoverTM, a premium

quality covering made in Germany, and sold in the U.S. by Hanger-9

as UltracoteTM.

Colors

OracoverTM #10 White (Ultracote #HANU870)

and

OracoverTM #29 Transparent Red (Ultracote #HANU950)

or

OracoverTM #59 Transparent Blue (Ultracote #HANU954) 

If sometime in the future you need replacement covering or

matching paint for repairs, they are available from your local hobby

dealer or online from Hanger-9.

How To Tighten Loose Covering

After you open your KADET SENIOR and take all the covered

parts out of their plastic bags, the covering may begin to wrinkle.

This is not unusual and is no cause for alarm.

Your airplane was built and covered in a part of the world which

has relatively high humidity and therefore, the wood was likely

carrying a fair amount of moisture. When exposed to drier air, the

wood typically loses this moisture, dimensionally "shrinking" in the

process. In turn, this may cause some wrinkles. However,

wrinkles are easy to remove by just using a hobby type heat iron.

Caution: Trying to remove the wrinkles by hastily going over them

with a heat gun can lead to more problems. You should take your

time to carefully go over the entire model with a covering iron, as

we will describe.

We suggest using a model airplane covering iron for this process.

Cover the iron's shoe with a thin cotton cloth, such as an old t-shirt,

to prevent scratching the covering as you work.

After covering your iron, the next step is to set the iron to the

COVERING MATERIAL
4

correct temperature. This is critical for achieving a good result!

The iron should be set to about 220OF - 250OF (104OC - 121OC) as

measured on the bottom of the iron using a thermometer.

If you do not have a thermometer, you can find the correct

temperature by trial and error. Set your iron to a medium setting.

Glide the iron over some of the covering that is over over solid

wood, such as the sheeted wing center section. Observe the

covering to see if any bubbles appear. If bubbles appear, the

covering is getting too hot! Turn down the temperature of the iron

and repeat the test.

If no bubbles appear, turn up the heat slightly and repeat the test.

Keep adjusting until you “zero in” on the correct temperature. Find

the temperature that will get the covering to stick down without

forming bubbles or causing the seams to pull away.

Once your iron is set to the correct temperature, go over the entire

framework of the airplane, making sure that the covering is

securely bonded to the structure everywhere the covering comes

in contact with the wood underneath. This takes some time, but is

worth the effort.

After you have all the covering secured onto the solid areas, turn

the temperature of the iron up to approximatelly 300OF - 320OF

(149OC - 160OC). This is the correct temperature for shrinking the

covering material.

Use the iron to tighten up any wrinkles in the “open” areas of the

model (no wood underneath the covering). Glide the iron over the

wrinkle for a few seconds, then remove. Repeat until the covering

is tight with no wrinkles.

If wrinkles keep coming back on the tail surfaces, you may need to

“ventilate” the areas between the ribs. Otherwise the air that is

sealed in those relatively small areas will expand when the heat is

applied and actually cause the covering to stretch instead of

shrink. Use a pin to poke a tiny hole in the covering between each

rib, on the bottom of the part. That will let the expanding air

escape and the covering to shrink properly.

Caution When Using Heat Guns: You can also use a hobby-type

heat gun to shrink the covering, but you must be careful around

seams or color joints. Getting too much heat on the seams may

cause them to "creep" or come loose. You must also be careful

when using a heat gun when working around the windshield and

side windows - heat will distort the clear plastic material.

Recommended Temperatures:

To adhere the covering - 220OF - 250OF (104OC - 121OC) 

To shrink the covering - 300OF - 320OF (149OC - 160OC)

Locate the following parts from the kit contents:

❑ (1) Right Wing Panel & Aileron

❑ (1) Left Wing Panel & Aileron

❑ (1) Right Aileron Servo Hatch, covered

❑ (1) Left Aileron Servo Hatch, covered

❑ (8) M2.6 x 8mm PWA Screws for servo hatches

❑ (4) 3/8” x 3/4” x 3/4” Hardwood Servo Mounting Blocks

❑ (4) M2 x 8mm PWA Screws for servo blocks

❑ (2) Nylon Control Horns

❑ (4) M2.6 x 16mm PWA Screws for control horns

❑ (2) 2mm dia. x 3-5/8” long Pushrod Wires;

threaded on one end with "Z-bend" on the other end

❑ (2) Metal R/C Links

❑ (1) Aluminum Front Wing Joiner Blade

❑ (1) Steel Rear Wing Joiner Pin

❑ (2) 1/4-20 x 1-1/2” Nylon Wing Bolts

You will also need to acquire these items (not supplied):

❑ (2) Servos, standard size

❑ (2) 24" Servo Extension Chords

❑ (1) Y-Harness Servo Chord

1) Note that the wing panels in your kit come with the ailerons

permanently hinged in place. Give each aileron a gentle pull to the

rear to double check that they are securely glued.

2) The aileron servos will be mounted on the back (uncovered)

side of the plywood Servo Hatches.

a) To prepare the two hatches, use a ruler and sharp pencil to

find the center of each hatch. Draw a center line all the way across

each hatch, as shown.

b) Then draw two parallel lines, one on each side of the center

line, exactly 1-7/32" away from the center line. The total distance

between the two outer parallel lines should be 2-7/16". These lines

mark the outer location limits for the two Hardwood Servo

Mounting Blocks which will be mounted to each hatch.

WING ASSEMBLY
5

c) Hold one of the servos up against the back side of the hatch,

with the servo arm centered in the pre-cut slot in the hatch. Mark

the bottom of the servo grommets onto the hatch. Then draw a

pencil line across the hatch at this mark (this line runs across the

hatch, perpendicular to the other lines you drew).

d) Use Medium CA or epoxy to glue two Hardwood Servo

Mounting Blocks in position on the hatch, right up against the lines

you drew on the hatch, as shown. Let dry.

e) M2 x 8mm PWA Screws are provided to reinforce the

mounting of the hardwood servo blocks to the hatch. Use a ruler

to find the center of each block and mark it on the covered side of

the hatch. Drill a 1/16" dia. pilot hole about 1/4" deep, through the

hatch and into the mounting block. Install a screw in the hole.

Repeat to install a screw in the other mounting block.

f) Mount your servo to the hatch, using the screws that were

provided with the radio system. Be sure to drill pilot holes in the

mounting blocks before screwing the servo in place.

g) Set up and turn on your radio system to center the servo and

check servo travel. Install the servo arm. Check to see that the

arm does not bind on the slot in the hatch at extremes of travel.

NOTE: If you have a double-sided servo arm, cut off the side of the

arm that you won’t be using so that it cannot bind on the top of

covering when the hatch/servo is installed in wing.

h) Repeat steps 2a) through g) to mount the other aileron servo

to the other hatch.

3) Attach a 24” long servo extension chord onto the end of the

aileron servo wire. Wrap the connection with a piece of plastic

tape to insure that it won’t come unplugged.

4) Inside the aileron servo bay in the bottom of the wing panel you

will see a short balsa stick with a string tied to it. This string will be

used to pull the aileron servo chord through the wing. You will find

the other end of the string tied to another balsa stick that is inside

the small round hole in the bottom wing sheeting, right next to the

end rib.

a) In the servo bay, gently break the small balsa stick loose

from the wing structure. Pull it out and unwrap the extra string.

Remove the wood from the string and disgard it. Tie the end of the

string securely to the end of the servo wire, as shown.

b) Break loose the balsa stick that has the opposite end of the

string tied to it - from its location at the inboard end of the wing

panel. Begin carefully pulling the string and the aileron chord

through the wing towards the end of the wing panel. You may

occasionally feel like the wire has become stuck inside the wing.
6

This is simply the plug on the end of the servo wire hitting the side

of one of the holes in the wing ribs. Gently work the string back

and forth from both ends until the plug slips through the hole.

Sometimes the servo plug comes through all the ribs the first time

without getting hung up, and other times it seem like it gets hung

up on every rib. Be patient and don’t try to force it. The holes in

the ribs are large enough to get any common servo plug through.

c) When the servo plug appears in the round hole, reach in with

a narrow needle nose pliers or a hemostat and grasp the plug and

pull it out of the hole. Pull the servo lead fully out of the hole,

leaving very little slack in the aileron servo bay. Remove the string

from the servo plug and temporarily tape the plug to the wing

surface so it can’t fall back inside the wing.

d) Repeat this step to pass the other aileron servo wire through

the other wing panel.

e) Install the hatches/servos in place in the wing using the 

M2.6 x 8mm PWA Screws provided.

5) From the kit contents locate (2) Nylon Control Horns, (4) M2.6

x 16mm PWA Screws for mounting the control horns, (2) 2mm dia.

x 92mm (3-5/8”) long Pushrod Wires (threaded on one end with

"Z-bend" on other end), and (2) Metal R/C Links.

6) Install a Nylon Control Horn on the bottom of the aileron. Make

sure the horn is directly in line with the servo arm, and that the

base of the horn is right at the front edge of the aileron.

a) Hold the control horn in correct location on the aileron and

use a pencil or sharp awl to mark the mounting hole locations for

the control horn onto the surface of the aileron.

b) Drill a 3/62” dia. (or #56) pilot hole into the aileron at both

marked locations. Do not drill completely through the aileron, just

far enough to accept the mounting screws.

c) Mount the control horn in place using two M2.6 x 16mm

PWA Screws.

d) Repeat this process for the other aileron.

7) Before installing the pushrods you should hook your two aileron

servos up to your radio system to check their operation.

a) Plug the two servo wires into the leads of a standard 

Y-Harness. Then plug the single end of the Y-Harness into the

aileron slot in your receiver.

b) Turn on the radio system and center the aileron trim lever on

the transmitter.

c) Check to see if the aileron servo arms are both perfectly

centered on each servo - the arms should be perpendicular to the

servo body when the servo it at neutral. If necessary take the

servo arm off the servo and reposition to make it perpendicular.

Don’t forget to put the retaining screw back in the arm when done!

d) Now move the transmitter aileron stick to test for correct

direction of travel and full motion of the servos. Note that the

aileron servos should be moving in opposite directions to each

other.

8) Installing the Aileron Pushrods

a) Thread the metal R/C Link on to the threaded end of the

aileron pushrod. Thread it on about halfway for now, allowing for

equal adjustment in either direction.

b) The end of the pushrod with the Z-Bend is the end that

attaches to the servo arm. Install it in the last hole in the servo arm

- the furthest hole from center. Note, you will need to drill out the

hole in the servo arm with a drill bit to accept the pushrod wire.

Use a #49 (.073”) , a 5/64”, or a 2mm dia. drill bit.

c) With the aileron servo in neutral position, hold the R/C Link

up against the side of the nylon control horn on the aileron.

Determine if the length of the aileron pushrod needs to be adjusted

so that the aileron is in neutral position when the servo is neutral.

Adjust accordingly.

d) When you have the pushrod length approximately correct,

snap the Metal R/C Link into control horn, using second hole from

the bottom of the horn.

e) Turn the radio system on and double check that the aileron

servo is in neutral position. Readjust the length of the aileron

pushrod again if necessary so the aileron is also perfectly neutral.

f) Test the entire range of movement of the aileron. The

movement should be smooth with good centering back to neutral.
7

If there is any binding, find the cause and fix it now.

g) Refer ahead in this manual to the section titled CONTROL

SURFACE MOVEMENTS to learn the recommended amount of

aileron travel. Use the EPA (End Point Adjustment) feature of your

transmitter to achieve the recommended amount of aileron travel.

h) Don’t forget to check that the ailerons are moving in the

correct direction. Looking at the wing from the rear, moving the

transmitter stick to the "left" aileron should cause the left aileron to

move up and the right aileron to move down. If the movement is

in the wrong direction, use the servo-reversing feature on your

transmitter to reverse the direction of the aileron servos.

i) Repeat this process for the other aileron.

SAFETY ISSUE: After centering the servos and setting the control

travel, “safety” each R/C Link by slipping a short length of fuel

tubing (not supplied) over the link, as shown. This will prevent the

R/C Link from opening oup and becoming disconnected, which

could lead to a tragic crash.

9) Test fit the two finished wing panels together with the Aluminum

Front Wing Joiner Blade and the Steel Rear Wing Joiner Pin. Then

test fit the wing assembly on the fuselage. The tab that is formed

by the two panels at the center, leading edge, fits into the cutout in

the windshield former. At the rear, two 1/4-20 x 1-1/2" nylon wing

bolts secure the wing to the fuselage. If you encounter any

difficulties mounting the wing to the fuselage, find the problem and

fix it now. Then remove the wing from the fuselage and set it aside.

NOTE:

Any references to left or right, refers to your left and

right as if you were seated in the cockpit of the airplane.

Skip this section if you are planning to use an electric motor.

Detailed instructions on installing an electric power system begin

on page 11.

The KADET SENIOR ARF is a large airplane and is very

adequately powered with the 2-stroke or 4-stroke engine sizes

suggested. The airplane does not benefit from being overpowered. Doing this tends to put undue stress on the airframe

without any real gain in performance. This airplane was always

intended to "fly on the wing", not on excessive power.

Note that the engine installation for either 2-stroke or 4-stroke

powerplants is basically the same. The only differences being in

the throttle arm locations on the carburetors and the muffler

locations. The factory-installed throttle pushrod sleeve in the

fuselage has been placed to exit the firewall on the right side of the

fuselage. Note that it is not yet glued in place and is removable.

This positioning is typical for the throttle arm location on most 

2-stroke engines. If you plan to use a 4-stroke engine, it may be

necessary to relocate the throttle pushrod sleeve over to the left

side of the firewall to line-up with the 4-stroke engine’s throttle arm.

This is easy to do, using a long 1/4" dia. drill bit to drill a new hole

(aligned with the engine’s throttle arm) through the firewall and

through the second fuel tank support former behind it.

Locate the following parts from the kit contents:

❑ (1) Right Glass-Filled Engine Mount

❑ (1) Left Glass-Filled Engine Mount

❑ (4) M3 x 20mm Phillips-Head Mounting Bolts

❑ (4) M3 Flat Metal Washers

❑ (1) 1/8” od x 19-3/4” Nylon Inner Throttle Pushrod Tube

❑ (2) M2 x 7/8” Threaded Studs for throttle pushrod

❑ (2) Metal R/C Links

❑ (1) 350cc (11.8 oz) Fuel Tank Assembly

❑ (1) 5/16" x 3/4" x 4-9/16" Balsa Stick

❑ (1) Cowling

❑ (4) M2.6 x 10mm PWA Screws for cowl mounting

❑ (1) Spinner Assembly, 2” dia., black

You will also need to acquire these items (not supplied):

❑ (1) R/C Engine and suitable Propeller

❑ (4) Socket-Head Engine Mounting Bolts

❑ (4) Lock Nuts for engine mounting bolts

❑ (4) Flat Metal Washers for engine mounting bolts

❑ (2) 6" lengths of Silicone Fuel Line Tubing

❑ (1) Silicone Sealer (common kitchen & bath type)

ENGINE AND MOUNTS

The engine shown in these instructions, is a typical .46 size 

2-stroke engine. The engine is mounted in the upright position,

providing easy access for field adjustments.

1) Bolt the engine mounts in place on the front of the firewall with

four M3 x 20mm mounting bolts and four M3 flat metal washers.

Leave the mounting bolts slightly loose for the moment - do not

tighten them until the next step.

2) Set your engine in place on the beams of the engine mounts. If

the beams of the mounts are too far apart to fit your engine, slide

the mounts closer together. If they are already too close together,

slide them apart. Notice that the holes in the mounts for the bolts

are slotted to allow you to adjust the mounts to fit your engine.

After you get the mounts in correct position, tighten all four

mounting bolts, securing the engine mounts on the firewall.

GLOW ENGINE INSTALLATION
8

3) Slide the engine forward or aft on the engine mounts until the

front of the engine's thrust washer is 4-1/2" from the front of the

firewall.

4) Double check to make sure that the engine is pointing exactly

straight forward, and then mark the locations of the engine

mounting holes onto the beams of the engine mounts, using a

center punch or sharpened nail.

5) Unbolt the engine mounts from the firewall and drill holes thru

the beams of the mounts at each location. We recommend that

you secure the engine mounts in a vise while you drill the holes.

Also, if at all possible, use a drill press to drill these holes. You can

drill them by hand, but if you have access to a drill press, the job

will be much easier and the holes will be straighter.

NOTE: Engines in the .40 to .46 size range are right at the break

point between using 4-40 size or 6-32 size mounting bolts. Some

.40-.46 engines have small holes in their case for 4-40 bolts, while

other .40-.46 engines have holes large enough to accommodate

6-32 bolts. Be sure to buy the size appropriate for your engine.

Drill 1/8" dia. holes if you are using the 4-40 mounting bolts.

Drill 5/32" dia. holes if you are using 6-32 mounting bolts.

6) Re-assemble the engine on the engine mounts. Then bolt the

entire engine and engine mount assembly in position on the

firewall. Tighten all bolts firmly. We suggest using a little thread

lock compound (not supplied) on all the bolt threads to keep them

firmly in place.

FUEL TANK

We recommend that you plumb the fuel tank with a simple two-line

fuel delivery setup. One fuel line will be connected from the

carburetor to the fuel tank's pick-up or "clunk" line. To fuel or 

de-fuel the tank, this line is pulled off of the carburetor and

attached to your fuel pump. The second fuel line will be connected

from the fuel tank vent line to the pressure fitting on the muffler.

Note in the photos that the correct orientation of the fuel tank body

in the airplane is with its neck towards the top of the tank.

1) Inside the tank is a piece

of flexible fuel line tubing.

Reach inside with a tweezers

or needle nose pliers to get a

hold of the fuel line tubing

and pull it out. CAUTION:

Don't squeeze too hard and

put a hole in the tubing! Now

shake the tank a few times to

make sure there is no dirt or

plastic shavings inside!

2) Take a close look at the rubber stopper. Notice that it has two

open holes and one closed one. We will only be using the two

open holes. Leave the third hole closed.

3) Assemble the front metal clamp, the rubber stopper, and the

rear metal clamp with the bolt. Screw the bolt in, from the front,

just enough to hold the front and rear clamps loosely against the

rubber stopper. Do not tighten the bolt at this point. Rotate the

front and rear metal clamps until their holes line up with the two

open holes in the rubber stopper. You should be able to see

daylight completely through the two holes.

4) Use the shortest of the three supplied aluminum tubes for the

tank fuel feed tube. Use the longest of the supplied tubes for the

tank vent tube. Carefully poke the aluminum tubes through the two

open holes in the stopper assembly. Keep pushing the tubes in

until 3/8" of tube sticks out in front of the stopper. PLAN AHEAD:

The two aluminum tubes should end up horizontally opposed to

each other at the top of the stopper.

5) Put the plain end of a #47 drill bit about 1/4" inside the back end

of the vent tube. Using the drill bit for leverage, slowly bend the

back end of the vent tube upwards at least 45O. Try not to put a

kink in the aluminum tube.
9

6) Test fit the completed stopper assembly into the neck of the fuel

tank. Rotate the stopper so the aluminum tubes are horizontal at

the bottom of the stopper. Hold the tank up to a strong light and

look inside to see if the vent tube is close to the top of the tank. If

not, adjust the bend in the vent tube as needed.

7) Take the stopper back out of the tank. Slide the piece of silicone

tubing that came with the tank onto the inside end of the aluminum

feed tube. Then add the metal clunk pickup to the other end of the

silicone tubing. Test fit the stopper back in the tank to make sure

the clunk can swing freely without hitting the back of the tank. If it

hits the back end of the tank, shorten the silicone tubing in a small

amount at a time until the clunk can swing freely inside the tank.

8) When everything is right, tighten the screw in the stopper cap

until the cap is snug in the neck of the tank. Then test the fuel tank

for leaks! Fill your kitchen sink with water. Slip a piece of fuel line

tubing onto the tank vent tube. Submerge the tank in the water,

holding your thumb firmly over the fuel feed tube. Blow air into the

other end of the fuel tubing and watch for air bubbles coming

around the cap of the tank. If it's leaking, tighten the screw in the

cap a little at a time until the leaking stops.

9) Trial fit the tank in place inside the fuselage to familiarize

yourself with how it mounts. The front of the tank should fit through

the hole in the firewall. The main body of the tank is supported by

the contoured hole in the fuselage former. Note: If your engine

mounting bolts are protruding behind the firewall, it's a good idea

to take them out and shorten them so they don't protrude. If they

contact the tank, they might dig into the tank and cause a leak in

the future. Cut them off or use shorter bolts.

10) Apply a generous bead of silicone sealer around the neck of

the tank (regular household bathroom type silicone sealer,

available at most hardware stores, is recommended). Slide the

tank in place in the fuselage. Push the tank firmly up against the

back side of the firewall, compressing the silicone sealer to make

a good seal. If excess silicone sealer oozes out onto the front of

the firewall, clean it off.

11) A 5/16" x 3/4" x 4-9/16" balsa stick is provided to keep the fuel

tank in place. Install the balsa stick across the back of the tank,

gluing it to the sides of the fuselage. This will keep the tank from

sliding backwards in flight. If the tank ever has to be removed for

service, you can break the balsa stick loose and get the tank out.

12) Cut two 6" lengths of silicone fuel tubing (not included), and

install them on the two aluminum fuel tubes coming out of the

firewall. Attach the fuel feed line to the engine's carburetor and the

vent line to the pressure fitting on the muffler. (NOTE: Trim off any

excess length of fuel line tubing. The fuel lines should be kept as

short as possible for best fuel draw, but not so short that there is

danger of them coming off in flight. Leave a little slack in the lines.)

FILLING THE FUEL TANK

To fill a fuel tank with this vent arrangement, first remove the fuel

lines from the carburetor and the muffler pressure fitting. Pump

the fuel into the tank through the fuel feed line (carb line). When

the tank is full, fuel will begin to run out the vent line (muffler line).

Stop pumping when you see the fuel start to come out the vent

line! Re-connect the fuel lines and you are ready to start the

engine.

13) When using a glow engine it is best to seal the bottom hatch

to keep fuel and exhaust residue out of the fuselage. The reason

we built a hatch into this airplane was to provide access to the

battery compartment when using an electric motor. Obviously, you

do not need access to that area. Simply glue the hatch in position,

and then seal over the seams with either clear tape or the same

color covering material.

COWLING

An opening needs to be made in the top of the cowling to clear the

engine head and carburetor. Don't be tempted to quickly dive in

with a knife and start removing large chunks of material. You will

achieve a lot better result if you take the time to develope a pattern

and mark it on the cowling for guidance when you are cutting.

1) Begin by marking a centerline on the top of the cowl, as shown.
10

Then take width and length measurements off your engine and

transfer them to the top of the cowl, using the centerline as the

base reference point. The simple pattern shown in the previous

photo was quickly made by measuring the diameter of the engine

head and the overall length of the engine. It will serve as an

undersize starting point for removal of material.

2) A Dremel® Tool, or similar powered hand-tool, with a 5/8" dia.

coarse grit sanding drum is without a doubt the best tool to use for

removing the material inside the lines quickly, easily and

accurately. However, if you do not have access to such a power

tool, you can cut the opening with a drill, a hobby knife, and a file

- by first drilling a series of almost touching holes inside the pattern

lines (1/8” dia. works well); then using the knife to cut through the

connecting material between each hole; and finally finishing the

edges of the opening with the file or a sanding block.

Be aware that there are no hard and fast "rules" for the exact

perfect shape for openings in a cowling. Most important, make it

big enough to provide the access you need to the engine. The

best method is to "sneak up" on these openings, continually trial

fitting the cowling over the engine until it finally fits properly. Once

the opening is big enough for you to slip it over the engine and

place it in correct location on the model, then continue modifying

the opening as needed to provide access to the needle valve and

the fuel line tubing at the carb.

3) When satisfied with the opening in the cowling, mount the cowl

to the fuselage with the four M2.6 x 10mm PWA Screws provided.

a) Start by placing the cowl over the engine and in correct

position on the front of the fuselage.

b) Mount the 2” dia. spinner on the engine. Note that the

spinner backplate may not fit tightly on the propeller shaft of your

particular engine. Four different sizes of plastic adaptor rings are

included with the spinner to “sleeve” the backplate. Try each ring

until you find the one that fits your engine propeller shaft. It should

fit smoothly with no play. Then fit the spinner backplate onto the

prop shaft and over the adapter ring, all the way to the rear of the

shaft, against the engine. To hold the backplate in place, mount a

propeller on the shaft and hold it in place against the spinner

backplate using the engine propeller washer and propeller nut.

c) Move the cowling back into proper position on the fuselage,

leaving a 3/32” to 1/8” gap between the front of the cowling and the

back of the spinner, for clearance. Tape the cowling in correct

position using a low-tack tape.

d) At the rear of the cowl there are four small pre-drilled

mounting holes - two on each side of the airplane. Use a 1/16" drill

bit to make a guide hole through one of the cowl mounting holes

and into the fuselage side. Install an M2.6 x 10mm PWA Screw

into the drilled hole and screw it in place - do not over-tighten the

screw. Recheck the overall fit of the cowl and make any

adjustments needed with tape to hold it in place. Then on the

opposite side of the fuselage, drill another 1/16" guide hole and

install a screw into that hole. Repeat this process for the remaining

two cowl mounting holes. Remove the tape.

4) Remove the cowling and set it aside for now, while installing the

throttle pushrod.

THROTTLE PUSHROD

Locate the following parts from the kit contents:

❑ (1) Nylon Outer Pushrod Sleeve (already in the fuselage)

❑ (1) 1/8” od x 19-3/4” Nylon Inner Throttle Pushrod Tube

❑ (2) M2 x 7/8” Threaded Studs

❑ (3) Metal R/C Links

1) The first step is to install your throttle servo in the fuselage,

using the rubber grommets, eyelets, and screws that came with

the servo. Mount the servo in the front opening in the servo tray,

lengthwise across the fuselage. The servo arm should be towards

the right side of the airplane, as shown in the following picture.

2) The outer sleeve for the throttle pushrod is already installed in

the fuselage, but not glued. Position the sleeve so the servo end is

approximately 1/4” - 3/8” behind the fuselage former that is right in

front of the throttle servo. Then glue the sleeve to the former.
11

3) Cut off the front end of the sleeve approximately 1-1/2” away

from the center of the throttle arm. Glue the sleeve to the firewall.

4) Screw an M2 x 7/8” threaded stud into one end of the 1/8” od x

19-3/4” nylon pushrod tube - thread it in at least 1/4" or more. Then

screw a metal R/C link halfway onto the stud. NOTE: If the

threaded stud screws into the plastic tube too easily, not getting a

good “bite” in the plastic, put a little epoxy glue or medium CA on

the threads and in the end of the tube before screwing it in.

5) From the front of the airplane, insert the unprepared end of the

nylon pushrod tube inside the throttle pushrod sleeve and slide it

all the way back. Snap the R/C link into the bottom hole in the

engine throttle arm.

NOTE: Most 2-stroke R/C engine carburetors will provide low

throttle when the throttle arm is pulled fully back toward the rear.

Check your carburetor and confirm the correct direction of travel

for "low" and "high" throttle movement and then check the throttle

servo to be sure it also moves in the right direction.

6) a) Pull the carburetor throttle arm back to the full low throttle

position and hold it in this position with a piece of tape.

b) Turn on the radio system - transmitter first and then the

airborne system. Move the transmitter throttle stick to the full "low"

throttle position, with the throttle trim lever centered.

c) In the fuselage, install an R/C link and threaded stud in the

throttle servo arm. Position the throttle servo arm at about a 45O

back position.

d) Then use a marker pen to mark the nylon pushrod tube

where it should be cut and still accept 1/4" of the threaded stud.

7) a) Remove the R/C link from the throttle arm, and then pull the

throttle pushrod tube out of the sleeve. Use a razor blade to cut

the pushrod tube at the mark made in the previous step.

b) Screw the M2 x 7/8” threaded stud into the servo end of the

throttle pushrod tube.

c) Reinstall the pushrod back inside the sleeve. At the servo

end, thread the R/C link back onto the threaded stud and then clip

the link in the throttle servo arm.

d) At the engine end, clip the R/C link back in the throttle arm.

e) With the radio system turned on, test the operation of the

throttle pushrod and carburetor. Make adjustments to one or both

of the R/C links until you can achieve full range of throttle

movement. Ideally, the range of moment you want is as follows:

Use the EPA (End Point Adjustment) feature of your transmitter to

accurately dial-in the desired servo travel. Also make sure there is

no binding in the throttle linkage, which could cause unnecessary

battery drain. Understand that the final throttle set-up will be done

after the engine is broken-in and running.

The installation of your glow engine is now completed. Skip the

next section on electric motors and proceed directly to “Attaching

The Tail Surfaces” on page 13.

If you are going to use an electric motor system in your KADET

SENIOR, you will need to acquire these items (not supplied):

❑ (1) Electric Motor and suitable Propeller

❑ (1) Motor Mount

❑ (1) set of Mounting Bolts and Blind Nuts

❑ (1) ESC (Electronic Speed Control)

❑ (1) Battery Pack

❑ (1) set of Connectors (Battery-ESC)

❑ (1) 3/4” wide hook-and-loop sticky-back tape

❑ (1) 3/4” wide hook-and-loop strap

ELECTRIC MOTOR INSTALLATION

STICK FORWARD

TRIM FORWARD

HIGH SPEED

STICK BACK

TRIM FORWARD

GOOD IDLE

STICK BACK

TRIM BACK

KILL ENGINE
12

There are literally dozens of good electric motors and accessories

on the market that are suitable for flying the KADET SENIOR. All

of them have their own unique features and dimensions, making it

impossible to write detailed instructions for every brand. As

mentioned in the beginning of this manual, we will be installing a

Maxx Products #HC3528-1000 brushless outrunner electric motor,

with the Maxx Products #ACC3958 Motor Mount, and a Castle

Creations ESC. Even if you use other brands, the following

instructions should provide you with enough guidance to

successfully install your electric power system.

IMPORTANT NOTE ON MOTOR MOUNTS: If you are using a

different brand electric motor or motor mount, you need to make

sure that the combination you select can provide exactly 4-1/2”

distance from the front of the prop adaptor to the front of the

firewall (i.e. back of the mount). 4-1/2” is the distance needed for

the cowling to fit properly.

1) There are four sets of “cross-hairs” etched on the front of the

plywood firewall to mark the locations of the mounting holes for the

Maxx Products #ACC3958 Motor Mount. To install this mount on

the firewall you will need to purchase (4) 4-40 x 1/2” Socket-Head

Bolts, (4) #4 Flat Metal Washers, and (4) 4-40 Blind Nuts. Drill the

four mounting holes with a 9/64” or #27 drill bit.

NOTE: If you are using a different mount, line your mount up on

the firewall according to the horizontal and vertical thrust lines that

are etched in the plywood. Then drill appropriate holes where

needed for your mounting bolts.

2) Install the blind nuts on the back of the firewall. The best

method is to use one of your mounting bolts, with a flat washer on

it, from the front side of the firewall to “draw” the blind nut into the

back side. Keep tightening the bolt until the prongs of the blind nut

are completely locked into the plywood. After you get all four blind

nuts in place, apply a little glue around the flanges of the blind nuts

to keep them from coming loose. Be careful not to get any glue in

the threads of the blind nuts.

HELPFUL HINT: It’s never easy putting a blind nut on the backside

of the firewall of a pre-built model. Here’s a handy trick! Take a

stick of scrap balsa wood - 1/4” sq. x 10”-12” long works well in

most cases - and put a piece of doubled-up tape (any kind) on the

end, and then stick the blind nut to the tape. With this stick you

can reach inside the nose of the airplane and hold the blind nut in

position while you screw in the mounting bolt from the front of the

firewall. If the model structure doesn’t allow a straight shot at the

location, cut an angle on the end of the stick to allow you to hold

the blind nut at the correct angle.

3) Additional holes are needed in the firewall to allow air to flow

back inside the fuselage to cool the battery and the ESC in flight.

We recommend drilling eight 3/8” dia. holes in the locations shown

in this photo. Measure the locations of the holes off the vertical

and horizontal thrust lines that are etched in the firewall.

4) Bolt your motor and mount to the firewall. Use thread lock

compound (not supplied) on all the bolt threads.

5) Solder the appropriate connectors (not supplied) to the battery

leads of your ESC.

6) Mount your ESC inside the nose just behind the firewall,

sticking it to the fuselage side with a 1-1/2” long piece of 3/4” wide

“hook & loop” tape (not supplied).
13

7) Pass the motor leads from the ESC through one of the cooling

holes you made in Step 3. Connect the leads to your motor. Use

the radio system to operate the motor and check the direction of

rotation. If you need to reverse the rotation, refer to instructions

that came with the motor and ESC.

8) Put a strip of 3/4” wide hook-and-loop tape (not supplied) on the

battery compartment floor. Put a strip of the mating tape on each

of your battery packs. This will keep your battery pack from shifting

position in flight.

Note: Hook-and-loop “tape” has either the hook or the loop on only

one side of the strip. The other side is sticky back.

9) Cut two 9” long pieces of 3/4” wide hook-and-loop strap

material (not supplied). Install the two straps in the battery

compartment as shown, running them through the slots in the

plywood floor. Anchor the straps to the backside of the plywood

with a few drops of glue. These straps will keep you battery pack

from falling out of the airplane.

NOTE: Hook-and-loop “strap” has the hook surface on one side of

the strip and the loop surface on the other side. You can overlap

the ends of the strip and stick them together, effectively creating a

strap to hold your battery pack securely in position.

10) Mount the cowling to the fuselage with the four M2.6 x 10mm

PWA Screws provided. Note that four holes for the screws are

already in the cowling - two on each side. Tape the cowling in

correct position on the fuselage, using a low-tack tape. Use a

1/16" drill bit to make a guide hole through one of the upper cowl

mounting holes and into the fuselage side. Install an M2.6 x 10mm

PWA Screw into the drilled hole and screw it in place - do not overtighten the screw. Recheck the overall fit of the cowl and make any

adjustments needed with tape to hold it in place. Then on the

opposite side of the fuselage, drill another 1/16" guide hole and

install a screw into that hole. Repeat this process for the remaining

two cowl mounting holes. Remove the tape.

11) OPTIONAL SPINNER: A 2” dia. spinner is included in this kit.

No doubt it will be used by almost everyone who is installing a glow

engine. However with an electric motor you may prefer to not use

the spinner in order to allow more cooling air to flow into the

cowling. The opening between the prop shaft and the cowling

(which a spinner would cover up) allows a significant amount of air

to flow in directly onto the motor, to keep it running cool.

Nonetheless, many people do successfully use big spinners on

fully cowled electric motors. If you do decide to use a spinner, you

will need to make some additional openings in the front of the

cowling for cooling air to enter. Also make sure you have plenty of

exit area for the air. In any fully cowled installation (glow or

electric), it is critical that you have slightly more exit area than

incoming area. Having more exit area creates a positive air flow

through the cowling - an actual suction effect - drawing the heated

air out of the cowling so that more cool air can come in.

Both glow engine and electric motor users resume assembly here.

1) Trial fit the stabilizer/elevator assembly on the fuselage, without

glue. Use a couple pins to hold it in position. Use a tape measure

or yardstick to measure the distance from the rear corner of the

stab to the rear edge of the wing saddle. Then, take the same

measurement on the other side of the fuselage. The two

measurements should be identical or within 1/8" of each other. If

not, unpin the stabilizer and shift it as needed to get the two

measurements the same. Once you have it squared up, use a fine

felt time marker to give yourself some guide marks at the front and

back of the stab, so you can quickly realign it later when glue is

applied.

ATTACH THE TAIL SURFACES
14

Also check the alignment of the stabilizer from the front view.

Mount the wing to the fuselage, using the two 1/4-20 x 1-1/2” nylon

wing bolts provided. Place the model on a flat surface and orient

it to allow you to view the airplane from the front from a distance

of 10 feet or so. With the stabilizer squarely in place and pinned,

view the airplane from the front and rear. The stabilizer should be

equally aligned with the wing - not tilting one way or the other. If it

is tilting, correct it.

When satisfied with the alignment, remove the stabilizer from the

fuselage in preparation for gluing on permanently.

2) We recommend gluing the stabilizer permanently onto the

fuselage with slow-drying epoxy glue, which will provide plenty of

time to get the stabilizer properly realigned with the fuselage and

wing. Mix a batch of epoxy in sufficient quantity to cover the area

of the fuselage where the stabilizer goes. Spread the glue evenly

over the exposed wood of the stabilizer saddle. Carefully set the

stabilizer back in position on the saddle. Press the stabilizer down

firmly and pin it in correct position. Quickly recheck the alignment

in both the top and front views before the glue dries. Use a paper

towel and rubbing alcohol to wipe off any excess glue that oozes

out of the joint. Let this joint dry completely before proceeding.

3) Trial fit the fin/rudder assembly on the fuselage, without glue.

Hold the fin in place and use a sharp pencil to trace around its

edges, where it contacts the top of the fuselage. Remove the fin

and use a sharp hobby knife to cut and remove the covering from

just inside of the pencil marks just made.

4) Use a very sharp blade (single-edge razor blade shown) to slice

off any excess covering material on the bottom of the fin, in order

to maximize the gluing area where it mates to the stab and

fuselage.

5) Apply epoxy glue to the bottom of the fin, including the tabs that

fit into the slots in the stabilizer and fuselage. Press the fin/rudder

assembly in place. Use masking tape to hold the fin in corrrect

position. Double check the alignment of the fin - it should be

perpendicular (90O) to the stabilizer. Adjust the tape as needed to

hold it in position. Use alcohol and a paper towel to wipe off any

excess glue. Allow the glue to dry completely before proceeding.

The aileron servos and the throttle servo (glow only) are already

installed and ready to use. The rest of the radio installation

consists of mounting the elevator and rudder servos in the

fuselage, along with the receiver, battery pack, and switch.

1) ON/OFF SWITCH

The switch can be mounted in any position provided its leads can

reach the receiver and battery pack.

Internal Mount: There mounting location for the switch provided at

the front of the plywood servo tray built into the fuselage. Installing

the switch in this location keeps it inside of the fuselage and away

from dirt and fuel. If you wish to mount your switch in this location,

you will need to bend and install a push/pull wire that extends out

of the fuselage side. To do this, just drill a 1/16" dia. hole through

the top of the switch lever and use a piece of 1/16" dia. music wire

to activate the switch, as shown in the photo.

External Mount: The switch can also be mounted directly into the

side of the fuselage, using the hardware and plastic parts that are

included by the radio manufacturer. Typically, an externally

mounted switch is placed on the left side of the fuselage. Start by

RADIO INSTALLATION
15

using the switch cover plate as a template to mark the location of

the two mounting holes and the opening needed for the switch to

operate. Be sure there is solid sheet balsa under the covering in

the area you are putting the switch. Use a modeling knife to cut

the opening. Use a 1/16” dia. drill to make the holes for the bolts.

Install the switch.

2) ELEVATOR & RUDDER SERVOS

Mount the elevator and rudder servos in the plywood servo tray

using the screws and rubber grommets that came with your radio

system. The elevator servo should be mounted in the right rear

opening of the servo tray. The rudder servo should be mounted in

the left rear opening. Be sure to drill pilot holes in the plywood

servo tray before trying to screw the servo in place.

3) RECEIVER

a) Drill a 1/16” dia. hole completely through the bottom of the

fuselage, just ahead of the middle cabin former. This hole is for the

receiver antenna to exit the fuselage. Put a single drop of thin CA

on the hole to harden the edges and keep the covering from

coming loose. Let the CA dry completely, then run your drill bit by

hand through the hole again to tidy up the edges.

NOTE: These instructions describe running the antenna outside

along the bottom of the fuselage. There are a lot of other ways to

handle the routing of a receiver antenna, such as mounting it in a

tube (not supplied) you mount inside the fuselage. If you prefer a

different method, by all means use it.

b) Following the radio manufacturer's instructions, plug all the

wires for the servos, battery pack, and switch harness into the

receiver so the radio system is fully operational. Double check to

be sure that each servo is plugged into its correct receiver terminal

and that it is responding properly.

c) Wrap the receiver in a single layer of 1/2” thick soft foam

rubber to insulate it from vibration and shock. Use tape or rubber

bands to hold the foam around the receiver. Stuff the receiver

directly beneath the servo tray and use additional foam, or a

plastic “cinch” strap, to hold it in place.

d) Poke the receiver antenna wire down through the 1/16” hole

you made in the bottom of the fuselage (use an "antenna strain

relief" fitting if one came with your radio). Make sure the antenna

wire is not tangled up in the servo and battery wires! Continue

pulling the antenna out of the fuselage and towards the rear of the

airplane.

e) Anchor the antenna to the bottom of the fuselage with tape,

or with a small rubber band and a T-Pin (not supplied). We prefer

the rubber band and T-Pin method, as shown in the next photo.

Stick the T-Pin into one of the wood cross-pieces in the bottom of

the fuselage (pick a cross-piece that is a couple inches past the

end of the stretched out antenna wire). Don’t push the pin all the

way in - leave it sticking out about 1/8” or so. Put a drop or two of

CA glue on the pin to keep it in place. Loop the rubber band onto

the end of the antenna wire. Then loop the other end of the rubber

band over the T-Pin. If the antenna hangs loose, move the rubber

band forward on the antenna wire.

4) RECEIVER BATTERY PACK

a) If you are using a receiver battery pack (all glow and some

non-BEC electric motor installations) wrap the battery pack with a

single layer of 1/2” thick soft foam rubber to insulate it from

vibration and shock. Use tape or rubber bands to hold the foam

around the battery.

b) For now, leave the receiver battery pack loose on the bottom

of the fuselage in front of the servos. Later, when the Center of

Gravity (CG) is established, the final position of the battery pack

will be determined.

Locate the following parts from the kit contents:

❑ (1) 3/8” dia. x 22” long Wood Rudder Pushrod

❑ (1) 3/8” dia. x 33-1/2” long Wood Elevator Pushrod

❑ (1) 1/8” od x 19-3/4” Nylon Nose Gear Inner Pushrod Tube

❑ (3) Metal R/C Links; elev(1), rudd(1), nose gear(1)

❑ (4) Heat Shrink Tubing

❑ (2) 2mm x 4” long Pushrod Wires; threaded on one end

with "Z-bend" on other end; for rud & elev (servo end)

❑ (2) 2mm x 11-3/4” long Pushrod Wires; threaded on one end;

for rud & elev (tail end)

ELEVATOR & RUDDER PUSHRODS
16

❑ (1) 2mm x 1-5/8” long Pushrod Wire; threaded on one end,

with "Z-bend" on other end; for nose gear

❑ (1) M2 x 7/8” Threaded Stud; nose gear pushrod (servo end)

❑ (2) Nylon Control Horns; for elevator and rudder

❑ (2) Nylon Control Horn Bases

❑ (4 M2 x 20mm Mounting Bolts; for rud & elev control horns

1) Mount a nylon control horn on the bottom of the elevator with

two M2 x 20mm bolts and a nylon control horn base.

a) Start by holding the control horn in place on the bottom of

the elevator. Make sure it is aligned with the center of the opening

at the very rear of the fuselage, and that it is all the way forward so

that the holes in the arm line up with the hinge line. Use a pencil

or pointed tool to mark the location of the two mounting holes onto

the elevator.

b) Drill a 1/16" dia. hole at both of the marks, all the way

through the elevator.

c) Poke two M2 x 20mm bolts through the control horn, and

then press or screw the assembly on the bottom of the elevator.

d) As the bolts come through the top of the elevator, engage

the bolt ends into the holes in the nylon control horn base. Tighten

the bolts until the horn and the base are both up against the

elevator. Do not over-tighten and crush the wood.

e) Use diagonal cutting pliers to trim-off the excess exposed

ends of the bolts.

2) Mount a nylon control horn on the left side of the rudder with two

M2 x 20mm bolts and a nylon control horn base, using the same

techniques you did in the previous step for the elevator horn.

3) The front ends of both the elevator and rudder pushrods, where

they connect to the servos, are identical. Repeat each of the

following steps 2a-2f to assemble the servo end of both pushrods.

a) Start by using a ruler to measure and mark a point 1" in from

one end of both 3/8” dia. wood pushrods.

b) Use a 5/64" drill bit to drill a hole all the way through the

pushrod at the mark just made.

c) Use a single-edge razor blade or hobby knife to make a 3/32"

wide x 3/32" deep "channel", from the hole to the end of the

pushrod. This channel is for the metal pushrod wire.

d) Prepare a 2mm x 4” long pushrod wire for mounting in the

channel. Use a ruler to measure exactly 3" back from the z-bend.

At this mark, use pliers to bend the wire downward 90O, inline with

the z-bend. Use diagonal cutters to trim the bent end, leaving 3/8".

e) Mix a small amount of 5-minute epoxy. Apply the glue in the

channel and in the hole in the pushrod. Also apply epoxy to the

90O bent end of the wire pushrod. Insert this end into the hole and

channel, pressing it firmly in place. Wipe off any excess glue and

allow the glue to set.
17

f) Slip a piece of heat shrink tubing over the glued wire and

pushrod. Leave about 1/16" of the heat shrink tubing hanging over

the end of the wood pushrod. Use a heat gun to shrink the tubing

tight.

4) With the servo ends of both the elevator and rudder pushrods

completed, the opposite ends are now assembled. This is where

the two pushrods become different. In this step, we will complete

the ELEVATOR PUSHROD and install it in the airplane.

a) Begin by cutting a 2mm x 11-3/4" long metal pushrod to a

total length of 3-3/4". Cut the excess off the unthreaded end of the

wire - not the threaded end! Then at the unthreaded end, measure

and bend 3/8" of the wire to a 90O angle, as shown.

b) At the tail end of the wood elevator pushrod, measure and

mark a point 1-1/8" from the end. Drill a 5/64" dia. hole completely

through the pushrod at this point. Make this hole parallel with the

hole drilled earlier at the other end of the pushrod.

c) After drilling the hole, again use a single edge razor blade to

cut a 3/32" channel from the hole to the end of the pushrod. As

before, this channel should be about 3/32" deep.

d) Epoxy the pushrod wire in place and allow the glue to dry.

e) Slide a piece of heat shrink tubing in place over the glued

wire and pushrod, leaving about 1/16" of its length hanging over

the end of the wood dowel. Use a heat gun to shrink the tubing

tight.

f) The elevator pushrod is ready to be installed in the airplane.

Thread a metal R/C link onto the threaded pushrod wire, about

halfway up the threads. Insert the pushrod (z-bend end first) into

the opening at the rear of the fuselage, and slide it forward until

you can clip the R/C link into the bottom hole of the nylon elevator

control horn.

g) Turn on your radio system and make sure the elevator trim

is centered. Then check to see that the elevator servo arm is also

centered, at 90O to the servo. If not, reposition the servo arm.

h) Now remove the servo arm and install it on the z-bend at the

end of the elevator pushrod. Press the arm back onto the servo in

the correct 90O position.

i) With the elevator servo at neutral, check position of the

elevator itself. If not level, adjust the overall length of the elevator

pushrod until it is. This can be done by lifting the arm off the servo

and rotating the entire pushrod on the threads of the R/C link, thus

adjusting its length as needed.

j) After adjusting the length of the elevator pushrod, press the

servo arm back in place on the elevator servo. Don’t forget to put

the screw back in the servo arm, so the arm can’t come off in flight.

Turn off the radio system.

5) Next, we will complete the RUDDER PUSHROD and install it in

the airplane.

a) Begin by cutting a 2mm x 11-3/4" long metal pushrod to a

total length of 11-7/16". Cut the excess off the unthreaded end of

the wire - not the threaded end! Then at the unthreaded end,

measure and bend 3/8" of the wire to a 90O angle, as shown.

b) At the tail end of the wood rudder pushrod, measure and

mark a point 1-3/4" from the end. Drill a 5/64" dia. hole completely

through the pushrod at this point. Make this hole parallel with the

hole drilled earlier at the other end of the pushrod.

c) Use a single edge razor blade to cut a 3/32" wide x 3/32”

deep channel from the hole to the end of the pushrod.
18

d) Epoxy the pushrod wire in the channel and allow to dry.

e) Slide a piece of heat shrink tubing in place over the glued

wire and pushrod, leaving about 1/16" of its length hanging over

the end of the wood dowel. Use a heat gun to shrink the tubing

tight.

f) The rudder pushrod is ready to be installed in the airplane.

Feed the pushrod (threaded end first) into the fuselage through the

cabin area. Watch for the threaded end of the pushrod to reach

the slot on the top left of the fuselage, just ahead of the stabilizer.

When it reaches the slot, reach in the slot with a small flat blade

screwdriver to guide the threaded end of the wire up and through

the slot.

g) Thread a metal R/C link onto the pushrod wire, about

halfway up the threads. Clip the R/C link into the 3rd hole of the

nylon rudder control horn.

h) Turn on your radio system and make sure the rudder trim is

centered. Remove the rudder servo arm and install it on the 

z-bend at the end of the rudder pushrod. Press the arm back onto

the servo in the correct neutral position, at 90O to the servo.

j) With the rudder servo at neutral, check the position of the

rudder itself. If not straight with the fin, adjust the overall length of

the rudder pushrod until it is. This can be done by lifting the arm

off the servo and rotating the entire pushrod on the threads of the

R/C link, thus adjusting its length as needed.

k) After adjusting the length of the rudder pushrod, test the

action of the rudder with the transmitter. It should be smooth with

no binding. Also make sure that the rudder is traveling in the

correct direction! When satisfied, turn off the radio system.

Locate the following parts from the kit contents:

❑ (1) Formed Nose Gear Wire (4mm dia. wire)

❑ (1) 3-3/8" Dia. Wheel

❑ (1) Nylon Nose Gear Steering Bracket

❑ (1) Nylon Nose Gear Steering Arm with Set Screw

❑ (4) M3 x 18mm Mounting Bolts

❑ (4) M3 Flat Washers

❑ (1) Plastic Wheel Spacer (4mm I.D.)

❑ (1) Wheel Collar with Set Screw (4mm I.D.)

❑ (1) 1/8” O.D. x 19-3/4” Nylon Inner Pushrod Tube

❑ (1) 2mm x 1-5/8” Pushrod Wire; threaded on one end,

with "Z-bend" on other end

❑ (1) M2 x 7/8” Threaded Stud

❑ (1) Metal R/C Link

1) Install the plastic wheel spacer, the wheel, and the wheel collar

on the axle of the nose gear wire (double check to make sure you

have the 4mm I.D. spacer and collar - not the larger ones that go

on the main landing gear). Make sure the wheel turns freely after

you tighten the wheel collar.

2) Bolt the nylon nose gear steering bracket in place on the firewall

with the M3 x 18mm mounting bolts and flat washers provided.

Note that M3 blind nuts are pre-mounted in the back of the firewall

for the nose gear bracket. Use a little thread locking compound on

the bolt threads to keep them firmly in place.

NOSE GEAR
19

3) a) Drill out the last hole in the nylon steering arm so it will

accept the Z-bend of the 2mm x 1-5/8” pushrod wire. Use a #49

(.073”), a 5/64”, or a 2mm drill bit.

b) Thread the 2mm x 1-5/8” formed pushrod wire into one end

of the 1/8” O.D. x 19-3/4” nylon pushrod tube. Screw it in as far as

you can - approx. 3/4”. NOTE: If the wire screws into the plastic

very easily, put a little epoxy glue or medium CA on the threads

and in the end of the tube before screwing it in.

c) Install the "Z-bend" end of the pushrod wire into the steering

arm. Notice in the following photo that the steering arm has a

bottom and a top - the arm is closer to the top. Install the z-bend

in the arm from the bottom.

4) The outer sleeve for the nose gear pushrod is already installed

in the fuselage, but not glued. Position the sleeve so the front end

sticks out in front of the firewall about 1/8”. Mark and cut off the

servo end about 1-3/4” aft of the fuselage former in front of the

servos. Secure the sleeve by gluing it to the two formers that it

passes through inside the fuselage.

5) a) From the front of the airplane, insert the plain end of the

nose gear pushrod inside the outer sleeve and slide it all the way

back.

b) Hold the steering arm in position in the center opening of the

nose gear bracket while you insert the nose gear wire up through

the holes in the bracket and steering arm. Push the wire in until

the top of wire is flush with the top of the steering bracket.

c) Snug up the set screw in the steering arm just enough to get

a slight grip on the nose gear wire (keep it loose enough that you

can adjust the steering arm position in the next step).

6) Align the nose wheel so it points straight ahead. Adjust the

steering arm position on the nose gear wire so that the outer hole

in the arm is about 7/8” away from the front of the firewall when the

wheel is pointed straight ahead.

7) Use a marker pen to mark the location of the set screw on the

nose gear wire. Remove the wire and file or grind a flat spot in the

wire for the set screw to rest in. Then reassemble the parts,

tightening the set screw securely. The flat spot will help insure that

your nose gear steering doesn’t slip.

8) Test the action of the nose gear steering by moving the servo

end of the pushrod by hand. It should be smooth and free. If there

is any binding, fix it before proceeding.

9) a) Screw a metal R/C link onto the remaining M2 x 7/8”

threaded stud.

b) Clip the R/C link into the outermost hole of the rudder servo

arm, on the side opposite the rudder pushrod.

c) Make sure the rudder servo is centered and the nose wheel

is pointing straight ahead, and then mark the nylon pushrod tube

where it needs to be cut to accept 1/4"-5/16” of the threaded stud.
20

d) Take the R/C link and stud off the servo arm and screw the

stud into the pushrod tube. NOTE: It’s easier to do this if you

remove the steering arm so you can take the pushrod out of the

sleeve. That makes it easier to screw the threaded stud (alone,

without the R/C link attached) into the servo end of the pushrod

tube. When done, put everything back together and re-attach the

R/C link. Make sure everything is tight, and that you’ve got all the

servo arm screws installed.

10) Turn on your radio and test the action of the steerable nose

gear. It should be smooth and free of any binding. You can refer

ahead in this manual to the section on “Control Surface Travel” and

adjust the rudder and nose wheel travel now.

NOTE: The exact amount of nose wheel travel is not as critical as

the other flight control surfaces will be. A good rule of thumb,

especially for new pilots, is that less travel of the nose wheel is

better than more! You do not need any more than 10O -15O travel

each way.

Locate the following parts from the kit contents:

❑ (2) 5mm dia. Main Landing Gear Wires

❑ (2) 3-1/2" Dia. Wheels

❑ (2) Nylon Landing Gear Retaining Straps

❑ (4) M2.5 x 16mm PWA Screws

❑ (2) Plastic Wheel Spacers (5mm I.D.)

❑ (2) Wheel Collars with Set Screws (5mm I.D.)

1) Press the two 4.5mm plastic wheel spacers onto the two axles

of the main landing gear wires. These are pressed all the way in

place back to the bend. Note that these spacers are meant to be

a tight fit. If necessary, use sandpaper to remove any burrs from

the axle ends and, if needed, use a pliers to rotate the spacers

onto the axles.

2) Install a 3-1/2” dia. wheel on the axle and slide it up against the

plastic space. Then install a wheel collar and tighten the set screw.

Make sure the wheel turns freely. Repeat the process to mount a

wheel on the other main gear wire.

3) Turn the fuselage upside down on a padded work surface for

installing the main landing gear. If your receiver antenna is over

the landing gear slot, remove the rubber band holding it in place

and move it out of the way temporarily. Fit the two main landing

gear wires into the holes and slot in the bottom of the fuselage.

NOTE: If you are doing a glow powered installation, be sure to fuel

proof the bare wood in the landing gear slot in the fuselage. Use

fuel proof paint, or simply flow thin CA glue onto the bare wood

and let it dry thoroughly before installing the landing gear wires.

4) Place the two nylon landing gear retaining straps over the main

gear wires as shown in the picture. Mark, then drill four 1/16” dia.

pilot holes forf the screws. Use four M2.5 x 16mm PWA Screws to

mount the straps.

MAIN LANDING GEAR
21

From the kit contents, locate the bag containing the molded clear

plastic side windows. These windows are molded to fit into the

fuselage window frames from the inside. Note that each window

has a ledge all the way around the outside perimeter to provide a

easy gluing surface.

Glue the windows in place with 5-minute epoxy or RC-56 type

glue. Do not use thin CA glue because it can cloud the plastic.

Apply a thin bead of glue around the edge of the window and press

the window in place from the inside of the fuselage. Don’t use too

much glue or it may ooze out onto the outside surface of the

window. Use a few small pieces of masking tape to hold the

window in place until the glue dries.

The decals supplied in your kit are sticky-back with a very

aggesssive adhesive. They are NOT water-activated. These

decals are not die-cut and need to be cut from their sheets with a

sharp hobby knife or scissors. A straight edge makes this easier

when straight lines are involved. Trim as close to the image as

possible.

Putting sticky-back decals on a model can be tricky, especially

medium to large size ones, like some of those in this kit. If you 

don't do it right, you will end up with unsightly air bubbles trapped 

underneath the decal. The best method is to put large decals on

"wet". This technique involves using a "soapy water" mixture to

float the decal on the surface of the model until you get it in 

correct position, and then use a squeegee to press the decal 

permanently in place.

The soapy water mixture can simply be water mixed with a very

small amount of dish soap, or SIG Pure Magic Model Airplane

Cleaner, or Fantastic®, or Windex®, or 409® type household 

cleaners - they all work great. For a squeegee, we recommend

the SIG 4" Spreader #SIGSH678, or simply use some scraps of

sheet balsa. You will also want to have some soft paper towels or

clean soft cloths (old tee shirts are great) handy.

First, spray the surface of the model where the decal is to be

placed with a soapy water mixture. Then, carefully peel the decal

completely off the backing sheet, being careful not to let the sticky

side double over and adhere to itself. Then, spray the adhesive

side of the decal as well. Lightly position the decal in place on the

wet surface of the model. Do not push down! The liquid allows you

to slide the decal into the desired final position, as long as you

don't press down on it. Once you have it in position, gently

squeegee the excess liquid out from under the decal, starting from

the middle and working out towards the edges. Mop up the liquid

with a dry cloth. Squeegee repeatedly to get as much of the water

out from under the decal as possible. Allow the decals to set

overnight to finish drying. Once dry, they will be solidly adhered to

the model.

CONGRATULATIONS!

Your KADET SENIOR is completely assembled. However, it is

NOT ready for flight! There are a few very critical pre-flight tasks

we must perform before flying. These are extremely important and

should be approached with patience and care.

This may be the single most important step in preparing your

airplane for flight. All airplanes, model or full-size, must be

accurately balanced in order to fly successfully. An airplane that is

not properly balanced will be unstable and will most likely crash.

NOT ALL KADETS WILL BALANCE THE SAME

It is impossible to produce a model airplane kit that will

automatically have the correct balance point. Not everyone uses

the same engine/motor or radio gear - and all those items can vary

in weight! You might be surprised to know that .40 size 2-stroke

R/C engines can vary in weight from 11 oz. to 18 oz. - that’s almost

a half pound difference, way out on the nose of your model! There

can even be as much as a 3/4 oz. difference in weight between

different brands of propellers! So, that’s why every model must be

balanced before flying. Don’t feel that whatever the balance point

your model came out at is “good enough”. Check carefully and

make whatever adjustments are required. Trying to fly an out of

balance model is dangerous!

Preliminary: All the parts and components that will be in the

airplane in flight must be installed in their correct positions. This

includes all the radio gear, the propeller, spinner, muffler (if

applicable), etc. Every piece of essential equipment must be

installed, ready for flight. Always balance a glow powered model

with the fuel tank empty. Always balance an electric powered

model with the battery pack in place.

RECOMMENDED BALANCE RANGE

Between 4” to 5” Behind The Leading Edge Of The Wing

(Anywhere within this range is acceptable.)

Using a ruler, measure back from the leading edge of the wing and

mark the balance range on the bottom of the wing, next to the

fuselage. Make the same marks on both sides of the fuselage.

Place your fingertips within the balance range on both sides of the

airplane and carefully lift it off the table. No part of the model

INSTALL SIDE WINDOWS

DECAL APPLICATION

BALANCE YOUR AIRPLANE
22

should be touching anything except your fingertips! If the KADET

SENIOR will sit on your fingertips in a level attitude, then it is

properly balanced and ready to fly.

If the airplane sits on your fingertips in an extreme nose down

attitude, then it is nose heavy. You will have to add weight to the

rear of the airplane to get it to balance. NOTE: Before adding

additional weight to the model, try simply moving the battery pack

to a further aft location. The battery pack is relatively heavy and

therefore makes a good balancing tool. You might try switching

places between the battery and receiver; or move the battery right

in front of the servos; or in extreme situations, move it behind the

servos. If you can’t get your model balanced simply by re-locating

the battery pack, then you will have to purchase lead weights from

your hobby dealer and glue them into the tail end of the fuselage.

If the airplane sits on your fingertips with the tail down, it is tail

heavy. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO FLY IT! A tail heavy model is very

dangerous and will most likely crash!! Weight will have to be

added to the nose of the model to bring it into balance. The

weights can be glued to the front of the firewall; or inside the

cowling. There are also “spinner weights” available for tail heavy

models. Wherever you put the balancing weight, make sure it

cannot come loose in flight!

Because the KADET SENIOR EG ARF has so much wing area,

adding balancing weight will have little effect on its flying ability.

Double check the alignment and movement of all the controls one

more time! Adjust all of your pushrod linkages so that the control

surfaces are in their neutral position when the transmitter sticks

and trim levers are centered. Make sure the control surfaces move

in the proper direction when you move the sticks. You’d be amazed

to know how many models have been destroyed on takeoff with

one of the controls reversed. Don’t let it happen to you! In fact, it’s

a good idea to get into the habit of checking for proper control

response every time you get ready to fly.

Adjust your pushrod linkages and/or transmitter EPA (End Point

Adjustment) settings as necessary to provide the recommended

amount of control surface travel. NOTE: The rudder measurement

is taken from the bottom of the rudder, at its widest point.

RECOMMENDED CONTROL SURFACE TRAVEL

AILERONS: 1" UP, 1" DOWN 

ELEVATOR: 3/4" UP, 3/4" DOWN

RUDDER: 1" LEFT, 1" RIGHT

The KADET SENIOR is designed to give you the best possible

chance to succeed in learning to fly R/C. However, learning to fly

model airplanes is not a skill you can learn overnight. It’s very

similar to learning to fly a real airplane in that you should go

through a learning phase with an instructor before you try to pilot

the airplane yourself. A lot of things can go wrong with 

these machines, and if you are not prepared to deal with them

instantly, you will loose your brand new airplane in a crash. To 

practically eliminate any chance that your first flight will end in

disaster, we strongly recommend that you seek the assistance of

a competent R/C pilot to help you with your first flights.

An instructor serves two purposes. First, he will take your model

up for its first test flight to make sure it is performing properly

before you try to fly it. When a brand new R/C model takes off for

the first time, there is no way of knowing which way it is going to

go. Some models will try to climb steeply, while others may want

to go down. Some will try to turn left, others right. Some 

models will be doing both at the same time! It doesn’t mean that

there is anything wrong with the model, but these minor 

differences must be “trimmed out” in order for the model to fly

“hands-off” straight and level. An experienced pilot can instantly

correct for out of trim conditions before the model crashes into the

ground. An inexperienced beginner has almost no chance of

saving an out of trim model!

The second reason for an instructor is to have someone there who

can correct any mistakes you make when you take over the

controls for the first time. Let the instructor get the model airborne

and flying straight and level at a safe attitude (“several 

mistakes high” as the old saying goes) before he turns the

transmitter over to you. You will quickly find out that it is very easy

to over control an R/C model and to get disoriented - EVERYONE

DOES IT AT FIRST! If you get out of control on your first flight,

quickly hand the transmitter back to your instructor so he can

rescue the airplane. He will get it leveled off and then let you try it

again. Without an instructor, you would not get a second chance!

It’s not that learning to fly R/C is difficult, it’s just a lot different than

anything you have ever done before. Anyone can learn to fly the

KADET SENIOR if they are willing to listen and learn! Remember

the first time you tried to ride a bicycle? It seemed completely

awkward the first time, but once you learned how, it quickly

became very easy. Learning to fly R/C model airplanes also

comes quickly to many people. Fly your KADET SENIOR as often

as possible. After you get a few flights under your belt with an

instructor at your side, you will begin to feel more comfortable at

the controls. Soon you will be flying “solo” with little thought of the

moves required.

Because of its large size and relatively light wing loading, the

KADET SENIOR is best flown in light or no wind conditions. For

initial test flights, we strongly recommend that you choose a calm

day with little wind. That way the airplane can be much more easily

and accurately trimmed. The goal is to trim the airplane for "hands

off" level flight at cruising speed.

On the initial test flight, you may find that you need a little "down"

trim in the elevator to get your KADET SENIOR to fly level. This is

not uncommon and is perfectly normal for a flat-bottom airfoil

airplane. Flat bottom airfoils are very speed sensitive - i.e. the

faster the airplane flies, the more it wants to climb. Airplanes like

the KADET SENIOR, with a very light wing loading, also have a

very wide speed range. The speed at which you fly the KADET will

determine the elevator trim setting you need to achieve hands-off

level flight. You will also find that everytime you change your

throttle setting (and thus your airspeed) you need to change your

elevator trim. So don’t be alarmed if you need a little down

elevator trim to fly hands-off level at your cruising speed. It’s not

uncommon for this type of airplane. Most KADET SENIORS will

fly level at “normal” cruising speed with the elevator drooped down

about 1/8” or so.

The KADET SENIOR is capable of mild aerobatics, such as loops,

Immelman turns, stall turns, slow rolls, etc. However, the design is

really all about training beginning pilots and leisurely slow flying.

Good luck and safe flying!

CONTROL SURFACE TRAVEL

FLYING
23

LIMIT OF LIABILITY

The craftsmanship, attention to detail, and actions of the builder/flyer of this model airplane kit will 

ultimately determine the airworthiness, flight performance, and safety of the finished model. SIG MFG. CO.’s

obligation shall be to replace those parts of the kit proven to be defective or missing. The user shall 

determine the suitability of the product for his or her intended use and shall assume all risk and liability in

connection therewith.

CUSTOMER SERVICE

SIG MFG. CO., INC. is totally committed to your success in both assembling and flying the KADET SENIOR

EG ARF kit. Should you encounter any problem building this kit or discover any missing or damaged parts,

please feel free to contact us by mail or telephone.

SIG MFG. CO., INC.

PO Box 520

401 South Front Street

Montezuma, IA 50171-0520

PHONE: (641) 623-5154

FAX: (641) 623-3922

SIG WEB SITE: www.sigmfg.com

SIG E-MAIL: mail@sigmfg.com

WARNING! THIS IS NOT A TOY!

Flying machines of any form, either model-size or full-size, are not toys! Because of the speeds that 

airplanes must achieve in order to fly, they are capable of causing serious bodily harm and property 

damage if they crash. IT IS YOUR RESPONSIBILITY AND YOURS ALONE to assemble this model 

airplane correctly according to the plans and instructions, to ground test the finished model before each

flight to make sure it is completely airworthy, and to always fly your model in a safe location and in a safe 

manner. The first test flights should only be made by an experienced R/C flyer, familiar with high 

performance R/C aircraft.

The governing body for radio-control model airplanes in the United States is the ACADEMY OF MODEL

AERONAUTICS, commonly called the AMA. The AMA SAFETY CODE provides guidelines for the safe

operation of R/C model airplanes. While AMA membership is not necessarily mandatory, it is required by

most R/C flying clubs in the U.S. and provides you with important liability insurance in case your R/C model

should ever cause serious property damage or personal injury to someone else. For more information, 

contact:

ACADEMY OF MODEL AERONAUTICS

5161 East Memorial Drive

Muncie, IN 47302

Phone: (765) 287-1256

AMA WEB SITE: www.modelaircraft.org