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L I V I N G W I T H F I R E

A GUIDE FOR THE HOMEOWNER

NEW MEXICO
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Living W Living With Fire ith Fire

BEFORE THE FIRE

Living in a High Wild re Hazard Area

The potential for loss of human life and 

property due to wild re across New Mexico is 

growing. In response, local, state, federal, private, 

and nonpro t organizations have banded 

together to create Living With Fire, a wild re 

threat reduction program for homeowners. 

The Living With Fire program is not about  re 

prevention. Its purpose is to teach people how 

to live more safely with the threat of wild re. For 

many areas in our region, it is not a question of “if” 

wild re will occur, but “when.”

Prior to the  re, this homeowner changed the roof material from wood shakes to  re-resistant tiles and reduced the amount of  ammable vegetation surrounding the home. These pre- re 

activities helped this house survive the  re.

Fact: Despite our best prevention e orts, 

much of New Mexico will continue to 

experience wild re.

Fact: The number of homes located in New 

Mexico’s high  re danger, wildland urban 

interface is greatly increasing every year.

Fact: Many of these homes, neighborhoods, 

and communities are not prepared to 

survive a wild re. 

The homeowner is the most important person in preventing a house from being destroyed by wild re. It is the actions 

that a homeowner takes before a wild re occurs that are critical. 

Helping New Mexicans live more safely with the threat of wild re

HUMAN BEHAVIOR IS JUST AS IMPORTANT AS FIRE BEHAVIOR IN SAVING YOUR HOME! Photo courtesy NM State Forestry Photo courtesy of Nevada Appeal

Who Wins, Who Loses...

Why do some houses survive a wild re, while others are destroyed? Research  ndings prove that house 

survival during wild re is not random, miraculous, or “dumb luck.” Rather, it is how the house is built, the 

characteristics of the adjacent vegetation and other fuels, and routine maintenance that often determine 

which homes burn and which survive. These types of actions are called “pre- re” activities. Pre- re activities 

are actions completed before a wild re occurs which improve the survivability of people and the home. 

The “winners” will be the people who implement pre- re activities.

DURING THE FIRE AFTER THE FIRE
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CONTACT BY FLAMES

This type of threat occurs when vegetation and 

other fuels burning near the house produce 

 ames that come in contact with the home 

and ignite it. Often, it happens when  re burns 

through a uniform layer of vegetation right up to 

the house. Direct contact by  ames is probably 

what most homeowners visualize when they 

think of a house burning during wild re. 

RADIATED HEAT

Radiated heat melted the vinyl siding on this house. 

Flames never came in contact with it. Radiated heat 

is produced by invisible electromagnetic waves 

that travel out in all directions from a  ame. When a 

house receives enough radiated heat for su# cient 

time, it will ignite. Sometimes radiated heat can burst 

windows and allow burning embers to enter the house. 

FLYING EMBERS

More houses burn due to  ying embers than any 

other reason. If  re conditions are right, embers 

can be lofted high into the air and transported 

more than a mile. Burning embers can also be 

carried by wind and  re whirls. If these burning 

embers land in easily ignitable materials, a new 

 re can start. 

Wild re will threaten your house in three ways... Photo courtesy NM State Forestry Photo courtesy NM State Forestry

This zone provides suggestions that 

help emergency responders locate 

your home in a timely manner.

Access Zone

This zone pertains to the 

vegetation surrounding your 

home, both ornamental and 

landscape plants and native plants.

Defensible Space Zone

Built Zone

This zone includes recommendations 

for home construction.

Interior Zone

This zone o( ers  re safety tips for 

inside the home.

What can homeowners do to reduce the wildfi re threat?

The Living with Fire wildfi re threat reduction recommendations are presented according to four zones...
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Access Zone

Road Width and Grade: Roads 

and long driveways should be at 

least 12 feet wide with a steepness 

grade of less than 12%.

Address: The home address 

should be readily visible from the 

street. The address sign should be 

made of re+ ective, noncombustible 

material with characters at least 4 

inches high.

Turnarounds: Homes located at the 

end of long driveways or dead-end 

roads should have turnaround areas 

suitable for large  re equipment. 

Turnarounds can be a cul-de-sac with 

at least a 45-foot radius or a location 

suitable for a three-point turn.
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Street Signs: Street signs should be 

posted at each intersection leading to 

your home. Each sign should feature 

characters that are at least 4 inches 

high and should be made of re+ ective, 

noncombustible material. 

Turnouts: Homes located at 

the end of long, narrow streets 

and dead ends can discourage 

 re ghters and complicate 

evacuation. If possible, create 

turnouts in the driveway that will 

allow two-way tra. c.

Bridges and Culverts: Inadequately 

built bridges and culverts may prevent 

 re ghting equipment from reaching 

your home. Ask your local  re marshal 

about proper bridge and culvert design 

for your area. 

Driveway Clearance: Remove 

+ ammable vegetation extending at 

least 10 feet from both sides of the 

driveway. Overhead obstructions, 

such as overhanging branches and 

power lines, should be removed or 

raised to provide at least a 15-foot 

vertical clearance.
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 Defensible Space Zone

Wildland Fuel Reduction Area: 

The Wildland Fuel Reduction 

Area usually lies beyond the 

residential landscape area and 

is where sagebrush, cheatgrass, 

piñon, juniper and other wild 

plants grow. Within this area:

• Remove all dead vegetation 

(dead shrubs, dried grass, 

fallen branches, pine 

 needles, etc.). 

• Thin out thick shrubs and 

trees to create a separation 

between them. 

• Remove “ladder fuels” by 

removing low tree branches, 

removing or pruning the 

shrubs under the tree. 
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See page 12, Six Steps to Creating an E7 ective Defensible Space

Noncombustible Area: Create a 

“Noncombustible Area” at least 3 feet wide around 

the base of your home. This area needs to have a 

very low potential for ignition from + ying embers. 

Use irrigated herbaceous plants (such as lawn, 

ground cover, and + owers), rock mulches, or hard 

surfaces (such as concrete, brick, and pavers) 

in this area. Keep it free of woodpiles, wood 

mulches, dead plants, dried leaves and needles, 

+ ammable shrubs (such as juniper), and debris. 

Lean, Clean, and Green Area: For a 

distance of at least 30 feet from the 

home, there should be a “Lean, Clean 

and Green Area.” “Lean” indicates that 

only a small amount of + ammable 

vegetation, if any, is present within 30 

feet of the house. “Clean” means there 

is no accumulation of dead vegetation 

or + ammable debris within the area. 

“Green” requires that plants located 

within this area are kept healthy, green, 

and irrigated during  re season. For 

most homeowners, the Lean, Clean, and 

Green Area is the residential landscape. 

This area often has irrigation, contains 

ornamental plants, and is routinely 

maintained. 
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Built Zone

Eaves: The eaves of a home act as a heat trap for 

hot air and gases, greatly increasing the chance 

of ignition. Covering the underside of the eave 

with a so. t, or “boxing in” the eave, allows the 

heat to escape. 

Windows: Windows are one of the weakest 

parts of a home and usually break before the 

structure ignites. This allows burning embers 

and heat to enter the home, which may lead 

to internal ignition. Single-paned and large 

windows are particularly vulnerable. In high 

 re hazard areas, install windows that are 

at least double-glazed or tempered glass. 

Windows with aluminum frames and sashes 

are better choices than those with wood or 

vinyl frames.

Vents: Vents on homes are potential entry 

points for + ying embers. All vent openings 

need to be covered with 1/8-inch or smaller 

wire mesh. Do not use  berglass or plastic 

mesh because they can melt or burn. 

Exterior Siding: Wood products, such as 

boards, panels and shingles, are common siding 

materials. However, they are combustible 

and not good choices for  re-prone areas. 

Noncombustible siding materials, such as 

stucco, brick, and cement board, are better 

choices. 

Chimneys: Chimney and stovepipe 

openings should be screened with 1/2-inch 

or smaller wire mesh or an approved spark 

arrestor cap. 

Rain Gutters: Rain gutters trap + ying embers. 

Always keep your rain gutters free of leaves, 

needles, and debris. Check and clean them 

several times during  re season. 
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Firewood: Firewood stacks should be located 

at least 30 feet from the home. If the stacks 

are stored uphill from the house, make sure 

that burning  rewood cannot roll downhill and 

ignite the home. 

Flammable Items: Keep the porch, deck, 

and other areas of the home free of easily 

combustible materials, such as baskets, dried 

+ ower arrangements, newspapers, pine 

needles, and debris. 

Roof: Homes with wood-shake or shingle roofs 

are much more likely to be destroyed during a 

wild re than homes with  re-resistant roofs. If 

you have a wood-shake or shingle roof, consider 

replacing it with a  re-resistant type. Fireresistant roo ng materials include composition, 

metal, and tile. Regardless of the type of roof you 

have, keep it free of fallen leaves, needles, and 

branches. 

Decks: The underside of the deck should be 

enclosed with  re-resistant materials. At the 

very least, the underside of the deck should be 

covered with 1/8-inch wire mesh. Keep this area 

free of all easily combustible materials. 
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Interior Zone

• Install according to the manufacturer’s 

directions.

• Never use a + ammable liquid such as 

gasoline to start a  re.

• Carefully follow directions when using 

synthetic logs.

• Keep a glass or metal screen in front of 

the  replace opening to prevent embers 

or sparks from escaping.

• Keep + ammable materials o1 the 

mantle and at least 3 feet away. 

• Do not use excessive amounts of paper 

to start your  re. 

• Do not burn colored paper, which can 

accelerate creosote buildup and increase 

the likelihood of a chimney  re.

• Avoid burning wood slowly for long 

periods of time, which contributes to 

soot and creosote buildup. Instead, 

allow the wood to burn rapidly for 10 to 

15 minutes several times a week to help 

reduce creosote buildup. Use dry wood 

for more e. cient burning.

• Screen chimney and stovepipe 

openings with 1⁄2-inch or smaller 

noncombustible mesh or an approved 

spark arrestor cap. 

• Inspect and clean chimney at least once 

a year.

Wood Stove and Fireplaces: Heat your 

home safely by following these tips 

concerning wood stoves and  replaces.

Candle Safety: Candles are a safe product, but

can become hazardous when used improperly or

in an unsafe manner. 

• Always keep a burning candle within sight.

• Keep candles out of the reach of children and 

pets.

• Before burning, trim wicks to 1⁄4-inch.

• Always use a heat-resistant, sturdy 

candleholder that is large enough to 

contain any melted wax.

• Keep burning candles away from drafts, vents, 

air currents, and easily combustible materials.

• Always burn candles in a well-ventilated room.

• Extinguish the + ame when 2 inches of wax 

remains, or when 1⁄2-inch remains if in a 

container.

• Use a candle snu1 er to extinguish candles.

Smoke Detectors: Smoke detectors are 

inexpensive devices that save many lives. 

Current  re codes require a smoke detector in 

every bedroom and in common areas. Many 

older or retro tted smoke detectors are not 

wired to the home’s electrical circuits and 

operate by self-contained batteries. Replace the 

batteries at least once a year or when the unit is 

“chirping” to indicate low battery power. 

Carbon Monoxide Detectors: Carbon monoxide (CO) detectors are the only way to alert 

people to dangerous levels of carbon monoxide 

before tragedy strikes. Carbon monoxide is a 

byproduct of combustion from gas appliances 

or automobiles. Only use detectors that are of-

 cially approved and are clearly marked with the 

American Standard – UL2034 symbol.
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Plan Your Escape: Even with early warning from 

a smoke detector, escaping a house  re can be 

di. cult. By planning and practicing exit drills, 

you can better prepare your family for a  re 

emergency. Contact your local  re department 

for advice. 

Other Heating Systems: Kerosene and other fuel- red heaters should be used properly. 

Follow manufacturers’ instructions when using these devices.

• Be sure they are approved by an independent testing laboratory. Heaters should turn 

 o1 if accidentally tipped over. 

• Use only the fuels speci ed by the manufacturer for each particular heating appliance.

• Refuel heaters outdoors. 

• Keep children away from heaters.

• Never burn charcoal indoors.

Flammable Paint and Stain Products: Paint 

and stain products are hazardous materials. All 

such products should be stored in a cool, dry 

place, away from any heat source. Contact the 

local  re marshal for speci c disposal requirements in your area.

Portable Fire Extinguishers: Portable  re

extinguishers enable you to quickly respond to a

 re. Extinguishers are rated by the type of  re

they can e1 ectively extinguish: “A” – wood or 

cloth  res, “B” – liquid  res, “C” – electrical  res, 

and “D” – metal  res. 

 • Be sure all family members know the 

extinguisher’s location and its operation. 

 • Get the extinguisher serviced annually and 

recharged after each use.

 • The term P-A-S-S will help you remember the 

right way to use the extinguisher:

 Pull the safety pin

 Aim the extinguisher

 Squeeze the trigger

 Sweep the extinguisher at the base 

 of the  re

Sprinkler Systems: A sprinkler system installed 

inside the home can provide e1 ective  re 

protection. It will operate automatically and can 

extinguish a  re while you are asleep or away 

from home. Be sure your home sprinkler system 

is installed by a contractor licensed by the State 

Fire Marshal.
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The term “defensible space” refers to the area between a house and an 

oncoming wild re where the vegetation has been managed to reduce the 

wild re threat and allow  re ghters to safely defend the house. In the event that 

 re ghters are not available, defensible space also improves the likelihood of a 

home surviving without assistance. 

Unfortunately, when some homeowners hear the term “defensible space,” 

they envision a large expanse of bare ground surrounding their home. While 

this is certainly e1 ective at increasing home survivability, it is unacceptable for 

aesthetic reasons and can contribute to soil erosion. It is also unnecessary.

Determine the size of an e7 ective defensible space: The size 

of the defensible space is usually expressed as a distance extending outward 

from the house in all directions. The recommended distance is not the same for 

every home. It varies depending on the dominant vegetation surrounding the 

home and steepness of slope. Use the Recommended Defensible Space Distance 

table to determine the right size for your home.

Once the recommended distance for defensible space is known, mark it by 

tying strips of cloth or + agging to shrubs. This becomes the “Defensible Space 

Zone.” 

If the Defensible Space Zone exceeds your property boundaries, seek 

permission from adjacent landowners before doing work on their property. It is 

important to note that the e1 ectiveness of the Defensible Space Zone improves 

when entire neighborhoods implement defensible space practices.

Remove dead vegetation: Within the recommended Defensible 

Space Zone, remove:

• dead and dying trees 

• dead native and ornamental shrubs 

• dead branches 

• dead leaves, needles, and twigs that are still attached to plants, draped on live 

 plants, or lying on the ground within 30 feet of the house 

• dried grass, weeds, and + owers

6 Steps to Creating an E1 ective Defensible Space

Step One

0-20% 

Moderately 

Steep

21-40% 

Very

Steep

+40%

Grass

Dry grass such as 

cheatgrass and weeds

30 feet 100 feet 100 feet

Shrubs and 

Woodland

Sagebrush, piñon, 

juniper, etc.

100 feet 200 feet 200 feet

Step Two

Make your house safe for  re ghters to defend. 

A homeowner can have both an e( ective defensible space and an attractive landscape.

Remove all dead trees from within the Defensible Space Zone.

Recommended Defensible Space Distance

Defensible space 

distance is measured 

from the base of the house,

 extending outward.

Trees 

Forest trees, such as ponderosa pine. With a substantial 

shrub understory, use those 

values stated above.

Flat to 

Gently Sloping

Photo courtesy of Mike Dannenberg

100 feet 100 feet 200 feet

Photo courtesy NM State Forestry

Photo courtesy NM State Forestry
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Create a separation 

between trees and 

shrubs: Within the 

Defensible Space Zone, 

native trees and shrubs, such 

as ponderosa pine, piñon, 

juniper, and sagebrush 

should not occur in a dense 

stand. Dense stands of trees 

and shrubs pose a signi cant 

wild re threat. Thin dense 

tree and shrub stands to 

create more space between 

them.

Create a separation between 

tree branches and lower 

growing plants: If trees are 

present within the Defensible Space 

Zone, there should be a separation 

between the lower growing vegetation 

and the lowest tree branches. 

Vegetation that can carry a  re 

burning in low growing plants to 

taller plants is called “ladder fuel.” The 

recommended separation for ladder 

fuels is three times the height of the 

lower vegetation layer. Prune the lower 

tree branches, shorten the height of 

shrubs, or remove lower plants. Do not, 

however, remove more than one-third 

of the total tree branches. When there 

is no understory vegetation present, 

remove lower tree branches to a height 

of at least 2 feet above ground. During 

a  re, this will help prevent burning 

needles and twigs that are lying on the 

ground from igniting the tree. 

Step Three Step Four

Dense stands of living and dead piñon poses a high  re 

threat.

A piñon tree before and after ladder fuel removal. Removing ladder fuel will help prevent a 

ground-level  re from reaching the trees. 

Sagebrush, other Shrubs, piñon and Juniper: On + at to gently sloping 

terrain, individual shrubs or small clumps of shrubs within the Defensible Space 

Zone should be separated from one another by at least twice the height of the 

average shrub. For homes located on steeper slopes, the separation distance 

should be greater. For example, if the typical shrub height is 2 feet, then there 

should be a separation between shrub branches of at least 4 feet. Remove 

shrubs or prune to reduce their height and/or diameter. In most instances, 

removing big sagebrush is the preferred approach. It is a very + ammable plant, 

is easily removed, does not resprout, and is typically abundant. 

Je7 rey Pine and White Fir: On + at to gently sloping terrain, Je1 rey pine and 

white  r should be thinned to provide an average separation between canopies 

of at least 10 feet. For homes located on steeper slopes, the separation distance 

should be greater. When selecting trees for removal, consider cutting unhealthy, 

damaged, or weak trees. 

2x

10

feet

3x

x

x

Photo courtesy NM State Forestry
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Step Five

Create a Lean, Clean, and Green Area 

extending at least 30 feet from the 

house: There are two goals for the Lean, Clean, 

and Green Area. The  rst goal is to eliminate 

easily ignitable fuels, or “kindling,” near the house. 

This will help prevent embers from starting a 

 re in your yard. The second goal is to keep  re 

intensity low if it does ignite near the house. By 

proper management of the fuels near the house, 

a  re would not be able to generate enough heat 

to ignite the home.

For most homeowners, the Lean, Clean, and 

Green Area is also the residential landscape. 

This area often has irrigation, is planted with 

ornamental vegetation, and is regularly 

maintained.

Maintain the Defensible Space 

Zone: Maintaining a defensible space is an 

ongoing activity. Plants grow back and + ammable 

vegetation needs to be routinely removed and 

disposed of properly. Before each  re season, 

reevaluate your property using the previous  ve 

steps and implement the necessary defensible 

space recommendations. 

Step Six

Little Green Gas Cans

Fire ghters often refer to ornamental junipers as 

“little green gas cans.” During a wild re involving 

homes, embers can smolder undetected under 

ornamental junipers. The junipers can then ignite 

and burn intensely after  re ghters have left your 

property. Planting ornamental junipers next to 

your house is never a good idea. Keep these "little 

green gas cans" at least 30 feet from the house 

or replace them with low-growing deciduous 

shrubs, herbaceous + owers, rock mulches, and 

hard surfaces.

Lean, Clean, and Green Area Tips

• Remove most or all + ammable wildland 

plants, including big sagebrush, bitterbrush, 

rabbitbrush, cheatgrass, pinyon, juniper, 

and manzanita. If you wish to retain a few 

of these as specimen plants, make sure they 

are free of dead wood and leaves, pruned to 

reduce the amount of fuel, and separated 

from adjacent brush  elds. 

• Select less + ammable plants for the home 

landscape. Some rules of thumb in selecting 

landscape plants for the Lean, Clean, and 

Green Area are... 

 • Shorter plants, less than 2 feet tall, 

 are better choices than taller plants.

 • When green, herbaceous plants, such 

 as grass and non-woody + owers, are 

 better choices than shrubs and trees.

 • Deciduous shrubs and trees are 

 better choices than evergreen types. 

 Avoid planting juniper, mugo pine 

 and arborvitae.

• Emphasize the use of hard surfaces and 

mulches. Hard surfaces include materials 

such as concrete, asphalt, and brick. Mulches 

include rock and wood types. Wood 

mulches should not be used within 3 feet of 

the house.

• Clear all + ammable vegetation from within 

10 feet of the propane tank.

• Remove tree limbs that are within 10 feet of 

the chimney, touching the house or deck, 

within 6 feet of the roof, or encroaching on 

power lines. 

• Create a noncombustible area at least 3 

feet wide around the base of the house. 

Emphasize the use of irrigated herbaceous 

plants, such as lawn, ground covers, and 

+ owers. Also use rock mulches and hard 

surfaces.

Remove  ammable vegetation and dispose of properly.

Miracle House? This home survived northern California’s Forty-niner Fire and has been referred to as the “Miracle 

House.” That title, however, is misleading. The reason this home survived was not due to a miracle. It survived because the

homeowner was proactive and created a Lean, Clean, and Green Area, had a  re-resistant roof, and provided good access. It 

was designed to survive. 
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WHAT IS DEFENSIBLE SPACE?

Defensible space is the area between a house and an 

oncoming wildfi re where the vegetation has been 

modifi ed to reduce the wildfi re threat and to provide 

an opportunity for fi refi ghters to effectively defend 

the house. Sometimes, a defensible space is simply a 

homeowner’s properly maintained backyard.

WHAT IS THE RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN 

VEGETATION AND WILDFIRE THREAT?

Many people do not view the plants growing on their 

property as a threat. But in terms of wildfi re, the vegetation adjacent to their homes can have considerable 

infl uence upon the survivability of their houses. All 

vegetation, including plants native to the area and 

ornamental plants, is potential wildfi re fuel. If vegetation is properly modifi ed and maintained, a wildfi re 

can be slowed, the length of fl ames shortened, and the 

amount of heat reduced, all of which assist fi refi ghters 

in defending the home against an oncoming wildfi re.

THE FIRE DEPARTMENT IS SUPPOSED TO 

PROTECT MY HOUSE, SO WHY BOTHER 

WITH DEFENSIBLE SPACE?

Some individuals incorrectly assume that a 

fi re engine will be parked in their driveway 

and fi refi ghters will be actively defending 

their homes if a wildfi re approaches. During a major wildfi re, it is unlikely there will 

be enough fi refi ghting resources available 

to defend every home. In these instances, 

fi refi ghters will likely select homes they can 

most safely and effectively protect. Even 

with adequate resources, some wildfi res 

may be so intense that there may be little 

fi refi ghters can do to prevent a house from 

burning. The key is to reduce fi re intensity 

as wildfi re nears the house. This can be 

accomplished by reducing the amount of 

fl ammable vegetation surrounding a home. 

Consequently, the most important person in protecting a 

house from wildfi re is not a fi refi ghter, but the property 

owner. And it is the action taken by the owner before

the wildfi re occurs (such as proper landscaping) that is 

most critical.

DOES DEFENSIBLE SPACE REQUIRE A LOT OF BARE 

GROUND IN MY LANDSCAPE?

No. Unfortunately, many people have this misconception. 

While bare ground is certainly effective in reducing the 

wildfi re threat, it is unnecessary and unacceptable due to 

appearance, soil erosion, and other reasons. Many homes 

have attractive, well-vegetated landscapes that also serve 

as effective defensible space.

DOES CREATING A DEFENSIBLE SPACE REQUIRE ANY 

SPECIAL SKILLS OR EQUIPMENT?

No. For the most part, creating a defensible space employs 

routine gardening and landscape maintenance practices, 

such as pruning, mowing, weeding, plant removal, 

appropriate plant selection, and irrigation. Equipment 

needed includes common tools such as a chain saw, a 

pruning saw, pruning shears, loppers, a weed-eater, a 

shovel, and a rake. A chipper, compost bin, or large rented 

trash dumpster may be useful in disposing of unwanted 

plant material.

HOW BIG IS AN EFFECTIVE DEFENSIBLE SPACE?

Defensible space size is not the same for every home, but 

varies by slope and type of wildland vegetation growing 

near the house. See “Step One” on page 12.

DOES DEFENSIBLE SPACE MAKE A DIFFERENCE?

Yes. Investigations of homes threatened by wildfi re 

indicate that those with an effective defensible space 

are much more likely to survive a wildfi re. Furthermore, 

homes with both an effective defensible space and a 

nonfl ammable roof (composition shingles, tile, metal, etc.) 

are many times more likely to survive a wildfi re. Defensible space also allows fi refi ghters to effectively and safely 

defend your home.

DOES HAVING A DEFENSIBLE SPACE GUARANTEE MY 

HOUSE WILL SURVIVE A WILDFIRE? 

No. Under extreme conditions, almost any house can 

burn. However, having a defensible space will signifi cantly 

improve the odds of your home surviving a wildfi re.

WHY DOESN’T EVERYONE LIVING IN A HIGH 

FIRE HAZARD AREA CREATE A DEFENSIBLE SPACE?

The specifi c reasons for not creating a defensible space 

are varied. Presented below are responses to common 

excuses for not creating defensible space.

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS ABOUT DEFENSIBLE SPACE

“I don’t have the time or money”: If you live 

in a high  re hazard area, creating defensible space 

needs to be a high priority use of your spare time. 

Many defensible space activities require little or no 

money to implement. For bigger, more expensive 

tasks, consider forming community groups and 

work with local agencies for assistance in acquiring 

grant funds. 

“It’s wrong to cut trees”: In many areas, New 

Mexico’s ponderosa pine, piñon and juniper trees 

occur in unnaturally dense stands. Thinning of 

these thick stands of trees not only reduces the  re 

threat, but often promotes forest health.

“It won’t look good”: There is a misconception 

that defensible space has to be ugly and barren 

to be e1 ective. Through proper planning, a 

homeowner can have both an attractive landscape 

and an e1 ective defensible space.

“It’s not my responsibility”: The manner 

in which a house is built, characteristics of 

the adjacent vegetation, and maintenance 

often determine survivability during wild re. 

The homeowner, not the  re ghter, is usually 

responsible for these factors.

“I don’t have an easy way to dispose of the 

unwanted vegetation”: Check to see if there 

is a free community cleanup day in your area, ask 

your  re marshal if they have a fuels reduction 

chipping program, or join several other neighbors 

and rent a chipper and trailer for a weekend.

 “It’s not going to happen to me”: If you live 

near areas of dense sagebrush, cheatgrass, piñon, 

juniper, ponderosa or other pine trees, it is only a 

matter of time before these areas burn.

“It’s against the law to remove vegetation”:

If there are regulations that prohibit the removal 

of vegetation necessary to create defensible space, 

contact your local  re o. cial and ask for help in 

resolving the con+ ict.

“I’ve got insurance”: While insurance can 

rebuild a house, it cannot recreate a home. Photo 

albums, heirlooms, and other memorabilia are 

often irreplaceable.

“I don’t know what to do”: For more 

information about creating defensible space, go 

to www.livingwith re.info, www. rewise.org or 

contact your local  re ghting agency, New Mexico 

State Forestry or other local, state, federal and tribal 

natural resource agencies.

What’s your excuse?

 

Photo courtesy NM State Forestry

Photo courtesy NM State Forestry
16

Acknowledgements

Living With Fire: A Guide for the Homeowner, was written 

by Ed Smith, University of Nevada Cooperative Extension, 

with assistance from Sonya Sistare, Living With Fire

program assistant. Graphic design provided by Lucy 

Walker, O. ce of Marketing and Communications, 

University of Nevada, Reno. Illustration services provided 

by Kirah Van Sickle and Animania, LLC. Funding for this 

project was provided by a National Fire Plan grant from 

the USDA Forest Service/Nevada Division of Forestry. 

For more information about Living With Fire, contact Ed 

Smith, (775)782-9960 or smithe@unce.unr.edu; or Sonya 

Sistare, (775)784-4848 or sistares@unce.unr.edu.

A master CD is available to agencies who wish to create 

a customized version of this publication by registering at 

www.livingwith re.info. 

Cover photograph courtesy Doug Boykin, New Mexico 

State Forestry

Additional phtographs courtesy as noted

Additional text courtesy New Mexico State Forestry

Copyright © 2005 3rd edition - July, 2005

The University of Nevada, Reno is an Equal Employment Opportunity/A. rmative 

Action employer and does not discriminate on the basis of race, color, religion, sex, 

age, creed, national origin, veteran status, physical or mental disability, and sexual 

orientation in any program or activity it operates. The University of Nevada employs 

only United States citizens and aliens lawfully authorized to work in the United States. 

Thousands of homeowners were evacuated when the Cerro 

Grande Fire approached Los Alamos in 2000.

Living With Fire is sponsored by...

If Wild re Approaches . . .

What should I wear and have with me?

❏ Wear only cotton or wool clothes 

❏ Proper attire includes long pants, long-sleeved shirt 

or jacket, and boots 

❏ Carry gloves, a handkerchief to cover your face, 

water to drink, and goggles

❏ Keep a + ashlight and portable radio with you at all 

times 

❏ Tune in to a local radio station and listen for 

instructions

What about family members and pets?

❏ If possible, evacuate all family members not 

essential to preparing the house for wild re 

❏ Make sure to designate a safe meeting place and 

contact person 

❏ Relay your plans to the contact person 

❏ Evacuate pets 

❏ Contact emergency providers for information on pet 

assistance if needed

How should I prepare my car?

❏ Place vehicles in the garage, pointing out with keys 

in the ignition 

❏ Roll up the windows 

❏ Close the garage door, but leave it unlocked 

❏ If applicable, disconnect the electric garage door 

opener so that the door can be opened manually

What should I take?

❏ Important documents (bank, IRS, trust, investment, 

insurance policy, birth certi cates, medical records) 

❏ Credit and ATM cards 

❏ Medications 

❏ Prescription glasses 

❏ Driver’s license 

❏ Passport 

❏ Computer backup  les 

❏ Inventory of home contents (consider videotaping) 

❏ Photograph the exterior of the house and landscape 

❏ Address book 

❏ Cell phone and charger 

❏ Personal toiletries 

❏ Change of clothing 

❏ Family photo albums and videos 

❏ Family heirlooms 

❏ Place essential items in the car

How should I leave my home?

❏ Close all interior doors 

❏ Leave a light on in each room 

❏ Remove lightweight, non re-resistant curtains and 

other combustible materials from around windows 

❏ Close  re-resistant drapes, shutters, and Venetian 

blinds 

❏ Turn o1 all pilot lights 

❏ Move overstu1 ed furniture, such as couches and 

easy chairs, to the center of the room

What about the outside of my home?

❏ Place combustible patio furniture in the house or 

garage 

❏ Shut o1 propane at the tank or natural gas at the 

meter 

❏ Close all exterior vents if possible 

❏ Prop a ladder against the house to provide 

 re ghters with access to the roof 

❏ Make sure that all garden hoses are connected to 

faucets and attach nozzles set on “spray” 

❏ Close all exterior doors and windows 

❏ Leave exterior doors unlocked 

❏ Turn on outside lights 

❏ If available and if there’s time, cover windows, attic 

openings, and vents with plywood that is at least 

one-half inch thick 

❏ Wet down wood-shake or shingle roofs before leaving 

❏ Fill trash cans and buckets with water and place 

where  re ghters can  nd them 

❏ If you have an emergency water source (pool, 

pond, etc.) and/or portable pump, clearly mark its 

availability so it can be seen from the street 

For more information, visit our website 

www.livingwith re.info

New Mexico State Forestry, a division of the 

New Mexico Energy, Minerals and Natural 

Resources Department, is a state agency 

that provides crucial  re ghting resources 

throughout New Mexico and is an important 

manager of the state’s natural resources 

located on private and state lands. www.

nmforestry.com

New Mexico OA ce of Emergency 

Management 

New Mexico Energy Conservation and 

Management, a divisionof the New Mexico 

Energy, Minerals and Natural Resources 

Department, develops and implements 

e1 ective clean energy programs - renewable 

energy, energy e. ciancy and conservaiton, 

alternative transportation and fuels - to 

promote environmental and economic 

sustainability of New Mexico and its citizens.

Bureau of Land Management www.nm.blm

gov

USDA Forest Service, provides numerous 

wildland  re ghting resources across the state 

on National Forest lands. www.fs.fed.us

For an electronic version 

of this document, log onto www.nmforestry.com

For information on  res in 

New Mexico, log onto 

www.nm reinfo.com

Photo courtesy NM State Forestry Photo courtesy NM State Forestry

This publication courtesy of: