NA-FR-01-95

Figure 1. Reasons for pruning.

USDA Forest Service

Northeastern Area State and Private Forestry

HOW to Prune Trees

Peter J. Bedker, Joseph G. O’Brien, and Manfred M. Mielke

Illustrations by Julie Martinez, Afton, MN

Introduction

The objective of pruning is to produce strong,

healthy, attractive plants. By understanding

how, when and why to prune, and by following

a few simple principles, this objective can be

achieved. 

Why Prune

The main reasons for pruning ornamental and

shade trees include safety, health, and

aesthetics. In addition, pruning can be used to

stimulate fruit production and increase the value

of timber. Pruning for safety (Fig. 1A) involves

removing branches that could fall and cause

injury or property damage, trimming branches

that interfere with lines of sight on streets or

driveways, and removing branches that grow

into utility lines. Safety pruning can be largely

avoided by carefully choosing species that will

not grow beyond the space available to them,

and have strength and form characteristics that

are suited to the site.

Pruning for health (Fig. 1B) involves removing

diseased or insect-infested wood, thinning the

crown to increase airflow and reduce some

pest problems, and removing
2

crossing and rubbing branches. Pruning can

best be used to encourage trees to develop a

strong structure and reduce the likelihood of

damage during severe weather. Removing

broken or damaged limbs encourage wound

closure.

Pruning for aesthetics (Fig. 1C) involves

enhancing the natural form and character of

trees or stimulating flower production. Pruning

for form can be especially important on opengrown trees that do very little self-pruning. 

All woody plants shed branches in response to

shading and competition. Branches that do not

produce enough carbohydrates from

photosynthesis to sustain themselves die and

are eventually shed; the resulting wounds are

sealed by woundwood (callus). Branches that

are poorly attached may be broken off by wind

and accumulation of snow and ice. Branches

removed by such natural forces often result in

large, ragged wounds that rarely seal. Pruning

as a cultural practice can be used to

supplement or replace these natural processes

and increase the strength and longevity of

plants.

Trees have many forms, but the most common

types are pyramidal (excurrent) or spherical

(decurrent). Trees with pyramidal crowns,

e.g., most conifers, have a strong central stem

and lateral branches that are more or less

horizontal and do not compete with the central

stem for dominance. Trees with spherical

crowns, e.g., most hardwoods, have many

lateral branches that may compete for

dominance.

To reduce the need for pruning it is best to

consider a tree's natural form. It is very difficult

to impose an unnatural form on a tree without a

commitment to constant maintenance.

Pollarding and topiary are extreme examples

of pruning to create a desired, unnatural effect.

Pollarding is the practice of pruning trees

annually to remove all new growth. The

following year, a profusion of new branches is

produced at the ends of the branches. Topiary

involves pruning trees and shrubs into

geometric or animal shapes. Both pollarding

and topiary are specialized applications that

involve pruning to change the natural form of

trees. As topiary demonstrates, given enough

care and attention plants can be pruned into

nearly any form. Yet just as proper pruning

can enhance the form or character of plants,

improper pruning can destroy it.

Pruning Approaches

Producing strong structure should be the

emphasis when pruning young trees. As trees

mature, the aim of pruning will shift to

maintaining tree structure, form, health and

appearance. 

Proper pruning cuts are made at a node, the

point at which one branch or twig attaches to

another. In the spring of the year growth

begins at buds, and twigs grow until a new

node is formed. The length of a branch

between nodes is called an internode. 
3

Figure 2. Crown thinning - branches to be removed are

shaded in blue; pruning cuts should be made at the red

lines. No more than one-fourth of the living branches

should be removed at one time.

Figure 3. Types of branch unions.

The most common types of pruning are:

1. Crown Thinning (Fig. 2)

Crown thinning, primarily for hardwoods, is

the selective removal of branches to increase

light penetration and air movement throughout

the crown of a tree. The intent is

to maintain or develop a tree's structure and

form. To avoid unnecessary stress and prevent

excessive production of epicormic sprouts, no

more than one-quarter of the living crown

should be removed at a time. If it is necessary

to remove more, it should be done over

successive years.

Branches with strong U-shaped angles of

attachment should be retained (Fig 3A). 

Branches with narrow, V-shaped angles of

attachment often form included bark and

should be removed (Fig. 3B). Included bark

forms when two branches grow at sharply

acute angles to one another, producing a

wedge of inward-rolled bark between them.

Included bark prevents strong attachment of

branches, often causing a crack at the point

below where the branches meet. Codominant

stems that are approximately the same size and

arise from the same position often form

included bark. Removing some of the lateral

branches from a codominant stem can reduce

its growth enough to allow the other stem to

become dominant. 

Lateral branches should be no more than onehalf to three-quarters of the diameter of the

stem at the point of attachment. Avoid

producing "lion’s tails," tufts of branches and

foliage at the ends of branches, caused by

removing all inner lateral branches and foliage. 

Lion’s tails can result in sunscalding, abundant

epicormic sprouts, and weak branch structure

and breakage. Branches that rub or cross
4

Figure 4. Crown raising - branches to be removed are

shaded in blue; pruning cuts should be made where

indicated with red lines. The ratio of live crown to

total tree height should be at least two-thirds.

another branch should be removed.

Conifers that have branches in whorls and 

pyramidal crowns rarely need crown thinning

except to restore a dominant leader. 

Occasionally, the leader of a tree may be

damaged and multiple branches may become

codominant. Select the strongest leader and

remove competing branches to prevent the

development of codominant stems.

2. Crown Raising (Fig. 4) 

Crown raising is the practice of removing

branches from the bottom of the crown of a

tree to provide clearance for pedestrians,

vehicles, buildings, lines of site, or to develop a

clear stem for timber production. Also,

removing lower branches on white pines can

prevent blister rust. For street trees the

minimum clearance is often specified by

municipal ordinance. After pruning, the ratio of

the living crown to total tree height should be at

least two-thirds (e.g., a 12 m tree should have

living branches on at least the upper 8 m).

On young trees "temporary" branches may be

retained along the stem to encourage taper and

protect trees from vandalism and sun scald. 

Less vigorous shoots should be selected as

temporary branches and should be about 10 to

15 cm apart along the stem. They should be

pruned annually to slow their growth and

should be removed eventually.

3. Crown Reduction (Fig. 5)

Crown reduction pruning is most often used

when a tree has grown too large for its

permitted space. This method, sometimes

called drop crotch pruning, is preferred to

topping because it results in a more natural

appearance, increases the time before pruning

is needed again, and minimizes stress (see drop

crotch cuts in the next section).

Crown reduction pruning, a method of last

resort, often results in large pruning wounds 

to stems that may lead to decay. This method

should never be used on a tree with a

pyramidal growth form. A better long term

solution is to remove the tree and replace it
5

Figure 5. Crown reduction - branches to be

removed are shaded in blue; pruning cuts should be

made where indicated with red lines. To prevent

branch dieback, cuts should be made at lateral

branches that are at least one-third the diameter of

the stem at their union.

with a tree that will not grow beyond the

available space.

Pruning Cuts

Pruning cuts should be made so that only

branch tissue is removed and stem tissue is not

damaged. At the point where the branch

attaches to the stem, branch and stem tissues

remain separate, but are contiguous. If only

branch tissues are cut when pruning, the stem

tissues of the tree will probably not become

decayed, and the wound will seal more

effectively.

1. Pruning living branches (Fig. 6)

To find the proper place to cut a branch, look

for the branch collar that grows from the stem

tissue at the underside of the base of the branch

(Fig. 6A). On the upper surface, there is

usually a branch bark ridge that runs (more or

less) parallel to the branch angle, along the stem

of the tree. A proper pruning cut does not

damage either the branch bark ridge or the

branch collar.

A proper cut begins just outside the branch

bark ridge and angles down away from the

stem of the tree, avoiding injury to the branch

collar (Fig. 6B). Make the cut as close as

possible to the stem in the branch axil, but

outside the branch bark ridge, so that stem

tissue is not injured and the wound can seal in

the shortest time possible. If the cut is too far

from the stem, leaving a branch stub, the

branch tissue usually dies and woundwood

forms from the stem tissue. Wound closure is

delayed because the woundwood must seal

over the stub that was left.

The quality of pruning cuts can be evaluated by

examining pruning wounds after one growing

season. A concentric ring of woundwood will

form from proper pruning cuts (Fig. 6B). 

Flush cuts made inside the branch bark ridge

or branch collar, result in pronounced

development of woundwood on the sides of the

pruning wounds with very little woundwood

forming on the top or bottom (Fig. 7D). As

described above, stub cuts result in the death of

the remaining branch and woundwood forms

around the base from stem tissues.

When pruning small branches with hand

pruners, make sure the tools are sharp enough
6

Figure 6. Pruning cuts

to cut the branches cleanly without tearing. 

Branches large enough to require saws should

be supported with one hand while the cuts are

made. If the branch is too large to support,

make a three-step pruning cut to prevent bark

ripping (Fig. 6C).

1. The first cut is a shallow notch made on

the underside of the branch, outside the

branch collar. This cut will prevent a

falling branch from tearing the stem

tissue as it pulls away from the tree.

 2. The second cut should be outside the

first cut, all the way through the branch,

leaving a short stub. 

3. The stub is then cut just outside the

branch bark ridge/branch collar,

completing the operation.

2. Pruning dead branches (Fig. 6)

Prune dead branches in much the same way as

live branches. Making the correct cut is usually

easy because the branch collar and the branch

bark ridge, can be distinguished from the dead

branch, because they continue to grow (Fig.

6A). Make the pruning cut just outside of the

ring of woundwood tissue that has formed,

being careful not to cause unnecessary injury

(Fig. 6C). Large dead branches should be

supported with one hand or cut with the threestep method, just as live branches. Cutting large

living branches with the three step method is

more critical because of the greater likelihood

of bark ripping.

3. Drop Crotch Cuts (Fig. 6D)

A proper cut begins just above the branch bark

ridge and extends through the stem parallel to

the branch bark ridge. Usually, the stem being

removed is too large to be supported with one

hand, so the three cut method should be used.

1. With the first cut, make a notch on the

side of the stem away from the branch

to be retained, well above the branch

crotch.
7

2. Begin the second cut inside the branch

crotch, staying well above the branch

bark ridge, and cut through the stem

above the notch.

3. Cut the remaining stub just inside the

branch bark ridge through the stem

parallel to the branch bark ridge.

To prevent the abundant growth of epicormic

sprouts on the stem below the cut, or dieback

of the stem to a lower lateral branch, make the

cut at a lateral branch that is at least one-third

of the diameter of the stem at their union. 

Pruning Practices That Harm

Trees

Topping and tipping (Fig. 7A, 7B) are pruning

practices that harm trees and should not be

used. Crown reduction pruning is the preferred

method to reduce the size or height of the

crown of a tree, but is rarely needed and should

be used infrequently.

Topping, the pruning of large upright branches

between nodes, is sometimes done to reduce

the height of a tree (Fig. 7A). Tipping is a

practice of cutting lateral branches between

nodes (Fig. 7B) to reduce crown width. 

These practices invariably result in the

development of epicormic sprouts, or in the

death of the cut branch back to the next lateral

branch below. These epicormic sprouts are

weakly attached to the stem and eventually will

be supported by a decaying branch.

Improper pruning cuts cause unnecessary injury

and bark ripping (Fig. 7C). Flush cuts injure

stem tissues and can result in decay (Fig. 7D).

Stub cuts delay wound closure and can

provide entry to canker fungi that kill the

cambium, delaying or preventing woundwood

formation (Fig. 7E). 
8

When to Prune

Conifers may be pruned any time of year, but

pruning during the dormant season may

minimize sap and resin flow from cut branches.

Hardwood trees and shrubs without showy

flowers: prune in the dormant season to easily

visualize the structure of the tree, to maximize

wound closure in the growing season after

pruning, to reduce the chance of transmitting

disease, and to discourage excessive sap flow

from wounds. Recent wounds and the chemical

scents they emit can actually attract insects that

spread tree disease. In particular, wounded

elm wood is known to attract bark beetles that

harbor spores of the Dutch elm disease fungus,

and open wounds on oaks are known to attract

beetles that spread the oak wilt fungus. Take

care to prune these trees during the correct

time of year to prevent spread of these fatal

diseases. Contact your local tree disease

specialist to find out when to prune these tree

species in your area. Usually, the best time is

during the late fall and winter.

Flowering trees and shrubs: these should also

be pruned during the dormant season for the

same reasons stated above; however, to

preserve the current year's flower crop, prune

according to the following schedule:

? Trees and shrubs that flower in early

spring (redbud, dogwood, etc.) should

be pruned immediately after flowering

(flower buds arise the year before they

flush, and will form on the new growth).

? Many flowering trees are susceptible to

fireblight, a bacterial disease that can be

spread by pruning. These trees,

including many varieties of crabapple,

hawthorn, pear, mountain ash,

flowering quince and pyracantha,

should be pruned during the dormant

season. Check with your county

extension agent or a horticulturist for

additional information.

? Trees and shrubs that flower in the

summer or fall always should be pruned

during the dormant season (flower buds

will form on new twigs during the next

growing season, and the flowers will

flush normally).

Dead branches: can be removed any time of

the year.

Pruning Tools

Proper tools are essential for satisfactory

pruning (Fig.6). The choice of which tool to

use depends largely on the size of branches to

be pruned and the amount of pruning to be

done. If possible, test a tool before you buy it

to ensure it suits your specific needs. As with

most things, higher quality often equates to

higher cost.

Generally speaking, the smaller a branch is

when pruned, the sooner the wound created

will seal. Hand pruners are used to prune small

branches (under 2.5 cm diameter) and many

different kinds are available. Hand pruners can

be grouped into by-pass or anvil styles based

on the blade configuration. Anvil style pruners

have a straight blade that cuts the branch

against a small anvil or block as the handles are

squeezed. By-pass pruners use a curved cutting

blade that slides past a broader lower blade,

much like a scissors. To prevent unnecessary

tearing or crushing of tissues, it is best to use a
9

by-pass style pruner. Left- or right-handed

types can be purchased.

Slightly larger branches that cannot be cut with

a hand pruner may be cut with small pruning

saws (up to 10 cm) or lopping shears (up to 7

cm diameter) with larger cutting surfaces and

greater leverage. Lopping shears are also

available in by-pass and anvil styles.

For branches too large to be cut with a hand

pruner or lopping shears, pruning saws must be

used. Pruning saws differ greatly in handle

styles, the length and shape of the blade, and

the layout and type of teeth. Most have

tempered metal blades that retain their

sharpness for many pruning cuts. Unlike most

other saws, pruning saws are often designed to

cut on the "pull-stroke."

Chain saws are preferred when pruning

branches larger than about 10 cm. Chainsaws

should be used only by qualified individuals. To

avoid the need to cut branches greater than 10

cm diameter, prune when branches are small.

Pole pruners must be used to cut branches

beyond reach. Generally, pruning heads can cut

branches up to 4.4 cm diameter and are

available in the by-pass and anvil styles. Once

again, the by-pass type is preferred. For

cutting larger branches, saw blades can be

fastened directly to the pruning head, or a

separate saw head can be purchased. Because

of the danger of electrocution, pole pruners

should not be used near utility lines except by

qualified utility line clearance personnel.

To ensure that satisfactory cuts are made and

to reduce fatigue, keep your pruning tools sharp

and in good working condition. Hand pruners,

lopping shears, and pole pruners should be

periodically sharpened with a sharpening stone.

Replacement blades are available for many

styles. Pruning saws should be professionally

sharpened or periodically replaced. To reduce

cost, many styles have replaceable blades.

Tools should be clean and sanitized as well as

sharp. Although sanitizing tools may be

inconvenient and seldom practiced, doing so

may prevent the spread of disease from

infected to healthy trees on contaminated tools. 

Tools become contaminated when they come

into contact with fungi, bacteria, viruses and

other microorganisms that cause disease in

trees. Most pathogens need some way of

entering the tree to cause disease, and fresh

wounds are perfect places for infections to

begin. Microorganisms on tool surfaces are

easily introduced into susceptible trees when

subsequent cuts are made. The need for

sanitizing tools can be greatly reduced by

pruning during the dormant season.

If sanitizing is necessary it should be practiced

as follows: Before each branch is cut, sanitize

pruning tools with either 70% denatured

alcohol, or with liquid household bleach diluted

1 to 9 with water (1 part bleach, 9 parts

water). Tools should be immersed in the

solution, preferably for 1-2 minutes, and wood

particles should be wiped from all cutting

surfaces. Bleach is corrosive to metal surfaces,

so tools should be thoroughly cleaned with

soap and water after each use.
10

Treating wounds

Tree sap, gums, and resins are the natural

means by which trees combat invasion by

pathogens. Although unsightly, sap flow from

pruning wounds is not generally harmful; 

however, excessive "bleeding" can weaken

trees. 

When oaks or elms are wounded during a

critical time of year (usually spring for oaks, or

throughout the growing season for elms) --

either from storms, other unforeseen

mechanical wounds, or from necessary branch

removals -- some type of wound dressing

should be applied to the wound. Do this

immediately after the wound is created. In most

other instances, wound dressings are

unnecessary, and may even be detrimental. 

Wound dressings will not stop decay or cure

infectious diseases. They may actually interfere

with the protective benefits of tree gums and

resins, and prevent wound surfaces from

closing as quickly as they might under natural

conditions. The only benefit of wound

dressings is to prevent introduction of

pathogens in the specific cases of Dutch elm

disease and oak wilt. 

Pruning Guidelines

To encourage the development of a strong,

healthy tree, consider the following guidelines

when pruning.

General

? Prune first for safety, next for health,

and finally for aesthetics.

? Never prune trees that are touching or

near utility lines; instead consult your

local utility company.

? Avoid pruning trees when you might

increase susceptibility to important

pests (e.g. in areas where oak wilt

exists, avoid pruning oaks in the spring

and early summer; prune trees

susceptible to fireblight only during the

dormant season).

? Use the following decision guide for

size of branches to be removed: 1)

under 5 cm diameter - go ahead, 2)

between 5 and 10 cm diameter - think

twice, and 3) greater than 10 cm

diameter - have a good reason.

Crown Thinning

? Assess how a tree will be pruned from

the top down.

? Favor branches with strong, U-shaped

angles of attachment. Remove branches

with weak, V-shaped angles of

attachment and/or included bark.

? Ideally, lateral branches should be

evenly spaced on the main stem of

young trees.

? Remove any branches that rub or cross

another branch.

? Make sure that lateral branches are no

more than one-half to three-quarters of

the diameter of the stem to discourage

the development of co-dominant stems.
11

? Do not remove more than one-quarter

of the living crown of a tree at one time.

If it is necessary to remove more, do it

over successive years. 

Crown Raising

? Always maintain live branches on at

least two-thirds of a tree's total height.

Removing too many lower branches

will hinder the development of a strong

stem.

? Remove basal sprouts and vigorous

epicormic sprouts.

Crown Reduction

? Use crown reduction pruning only when

absolutely necessary. Make the

pruning cut at a lateral branch that is at

least one-third the diameter of the stem

to be removed.

? If it is necessary to remove more than

half of the foliage from a branch,

remove the entire branch.

Glossary

Branch Axil: the angle formed where a branch

joins another branch or stem of a woody plant.

Branch Bark Ridge: a ridge of bark that

forms in a branch crotch and partially around

the stem resulting from the growth of the stem

and branch tissues against one another.

Branch Collar: a "shoulder" or bulge formed

at the base of a branch by the annual

production of overlapping layers of branch and

stem tissues.

Crown Raising: a method of pruning to

provide clearance for pedestrians, vehicles,

buildings, lines of sight, and vistas by removing

lower branches.

Crown Reduction Pruning: a method of

pruning used to reduce the height of a tree.

Branches are cut back to laterals that are at

least one-third the diameter of the limb being

removed.

Crown Thinning: a method of pruning to

increase light penetration and air movement

through the crown of a tree by selective

removal of branches.

Callus: see woundwood.

Decurrent: a major tree form resulting from

weak apical control. Trees with this form have

several to many lateral branches that compete

with the central stem for dominance resulting in

a spherical or globose crown. Most hardwood

trees have decurrent forms.

Epicormic Sprout: a shoot that arises from

latent or adventitious buds; also know as water

sprouts that occur for on stems and branches

and suckers that are produced from the base of

trees. In older wood, epicormic shoots often

result from severe defoliation or radical pruning.

Excurrent: a major tree form resulting from

strong apical control. Trees with this form have

a strong central stem and pyramidal shape.

Lateral branches rarely compete for

dominance. Most conifers and a few

hardwoods, such as sweetgum and tuliptree,

have excurrent forms.

Flush Cuts: pruning cuts that originate inside

the branch bark ridge or the branch collar,

causing unnecessary injury to stem tissues.

Included Bark: bark enclosed between
12

“How to Prune Trees” was written to help

people properly prune the trees they care

about. If you doubt your ability to safely

prune large trees, please hire a professional

arborist. Information in this publication can

be used to interview and hire a competent

arborist.

branches with narrow angles of attachment,

forming a wedge between the branches.

Pollarding: the annual removal of all of the

previous year's growth, resulting in a flush of

slender shoots and branches each spring.

Stub Cuts: pruning cuts made too far outside

the branch bark ridge or branch collar, that

leave branch tissue attached to the stem.

Tipping: a poor maintenance practice used to

control the size of tree crowns; involves the

cutting of branches at right angles leaving long

stubs.

Topping: a poor maintenance practice often

used to control the size of trees; involves the

indiscriminate cutting of branches and stems at

right angles leaving long stubs. Synonyms

include rounding-over, heading-back,

dehorning, capping and hat-racking. Topping is

often improperly referred to as pollarding.

Topiary: the pruning and training of a plant

into a desired geometric or animal shape.

Woundwood: lignified, differentiated tissues

produced on woody plants as a response to

wounding (also known as callus tissue).

References

ANSI Z133.1. 1994. Safety standards.

American national standard for tree care

operators. Washington, DC: American

National Standards Institute.

ANSI A300. 1995. Standard practices for

tree, shrub, and other woody plant

maintenance. Washington, DC: American

National Standards Institute.

Fazio, J. R. ed. 1992. Don't top trees. Tree

City USA Bulletin No. 8. Nebraska City, NE:

The National Arbor Day Foundation.

Harris, R.W. 1994. Clarifying certain pruning

terminology: thinning, heading, pollarding.

Journal of Arboriculture 20:50-54.

ISA Performance Guidelines Committee. 1994.

Tree-pruning guidelines. Savoy, IL:

International Society of Arboriculture.

Ryan, H.D.P. III. 1994. Arboricultural pruning

methodologies. Arborist News Volume

3(4):33-38.

Shigo, A. 1991. Modern arboriculture.

Durham, NH: Shigo & Trees, Associates.

Shigo, A. 1989. Tree pruning: a worldwide

photo guide. Durham, NH: Shigo & Trees,

Associates.