L I V I N G W I T H F I R E

A GUIDE FOR THE HOMEOWNER

Pacific Northwest

Wildfire Coordinating

Group

For more information contact:
The Pacific Northwest region

 is an area where fire has

 always played a prominent

role in the natural environment.

Long before towns and subdivisions were established across the

landscape, fires were a natural

result of the frequent summer

thunderstorms that travelled across

the mountains and plains. However,

decades of fire supression have

resulted in fuel conditions that have

the potential to create intense

wildfires.

Within this natural fire environment, there are individual

houses, subdivisions, and entire

communities. Many homes,

however, would be unable to

survive an intense wildfire. Since

it is not a question of “if” wildfires

will occur but “when,” they will

occur, the likelihood of human life

and property loss is great and

growing.

Our ability to live more safely

in this fire environment greatly

depends upon our use of “pre-fire

activities.” Pre-fire activities are

actions taken before a wildfire

occurs which improve the survivability of people and homes. They

include proper vegetation management around the home (known as

defensible space), use of fire

resistant building materials,

appropriate subdivision design,

and other measures. Research

clearly demonstrates that pre-fire

activities save lives and property.

LIVING IN A NATURAL

FIRE ENVIRONMENT

Fire is a

natural part

of our environment. Our

forests and

rangelands

were burning

long before

there were

settlements in

the Pacific

Northwest.

+ +

With more

people using

our wildlands,

there is a

greater

chance

of fire starts.

+

Today’s

wildfires can

burn

intensely and

be difficult to

control.

 People are

living in this

fire environment. Many

homes are

built and

maintained

without

regard to

wildfire.

Potential for:

• Greater loss

of life

• Increased

property

losses

• More

damage to

natural

resources

• More money

needed for

firefighting.

=

L I V I N G W I T H

The pre-fire activities implemented by this homewowner included a green and well maintained landscape, reduction of wildland vegetation around the perimeter of the property, a

fire resistant roof, and a good access road with a turnaround area. The charred surroundings of the home show that these pre-fire activities effectively protected it when wildfire hit.

THE “WHY WE’RE WORRIED ABOUT WILDFIRE” EQUATION

THE “LIVING WITH FIRE” PROJECT

Photograph courtesy of California Department of Forestry and Fire Protection.

Cover photograph courtesy of California Department of Forestry and Fire Protection.

PACIFIC NORTHWEST WILDFIRE COORDINATING GROUP
WIND

DEAD

END

THE FIRE ENVIRONMENT

Firefighters recognize three components of the fire 

environment: weather, topography and fuel. These 

components affect the likelihood of a fire starting, 

the speed and direction at which a wildfire will travel, the 

intensity at which a wildfire burns and the ability to 

control and extinguish a wildfire. Although weather and 

topography cannot be changed, the fuels (or vegetation)

can be modified. Consequently, many of our opportunities

to reduce the wildfire threat lie in proper management

and manipulation of wildland vegetation. 

WEATHER: Dry, hot and windy 

weather increases the likelihood of 

a major wildfire. These conditions 

make ignition easier, allow fuels to 

burn more rapidly and increase fire 

intensity. High wind speeds, in 

particular, can transform a small, 

easily controllable fire into a 

catastrophic event in a matter 

of minutes.

TOPOGRAPHY: Of topographic 

features, steepness of slope most 

influences fire behavior. As the 

steepness of slope increases, the fire 

spreads more quickly. Other 

important topographic features 

include aspect (south and southwest 

slopes usually have more fires) and 

steep, narrow drainages (chimneys), 

which can significantly increase the 

rate of firespread. 

FUEL: Fuel is required for any fire

to burn. In regard to wildfire, fuels

almost always consist of living 

vegetation (trees, shrubs, grass, and

wildflowers) and dead plant material

(dead trees, dried grass, fallen 

branches, pine needles, etc.). Houses, 

when involved in a wildfire, become

a source of fuel. The amount, size,

moisture content, arrangement and 

other fuel characteristics influence

ease of ignition, rate of fire spread,

length of flames produced and other 

fire behaviors.

THE HUMAN ENVIRONMENT: When people

are living in high-hazard fire environments, 

the human-built environment becomes an 

important factor in predicting the loss of life

and property. Untreated wood shake and 

shingle roofs, narrow roads, limited access, 

lack of fire-wise landscaping, inadequate 

water supplies and poorly planned 

subdivisions are examples of increased risk to

people living with the threat of wildfire. 
8 1/2

EXAMPLES OF LOCAL FIRE BEHAVIOR*

Presented below are five types of vegetation common to our region with computer generated estimates of how they would burn under certain conditions. These predications assume a wind speed of 20 mph, flat terrain, typical moisture contents of living and dead vegetation for summertime, and

normal August weather for our area. I t is important to note that fire size and rate of spread is largely determined by spotting (embers/firebrands that are

thrown ahead and to the sides of actively burning fires). Spotting results in smaller fires that may contribute to the main fire size and rate of spread.

CHEATGRASS: Cheatgrass is an invasive annual grass

that usually occupies areas formerly vegetated with big

sagebrush. It can dominate old burned areas, abandoned

pastures, and other disturbed areas.

v

MIXED BRUSH: This represents a variety of brush

species of varying heights with an understory of grasses

and litter. This type is very common in the foothills surrounding the valleys.

Travels at 1/2 mph

BIG SAGEBRUSH/BITTERBRUSH: This is a heavy

brush type consisting of large big sagebrush, bitterbrush,

and sometimes mountain mahogany. Usually large

amounts of dead woody material are present.

DENSE CONIFER FOREST: Thick stand of mature pine,

fir and other conifers. There are mixed layers of vegetation

among young trees, seedlings and shrubs. There is a large

amount of dead or down woody material, needles and

organic matter on the forest floor.

15 acres can burn

after one hour.

OPEN PINE FOREST: This type consists of open, parklike lodgepole and/or ponderosa pine, often interspersed

with fir and other coniferous trees. The understory consists

of pine needles, a variety of grasses, and often dense

saplings.

THE LIMITATIONS OF WILDLAND

FIREFIGHTING

A lot of people assume that when a wildfire starts, it will be quickly controlled and extinguished. This is an accurate assumption 97% of the time. Firefighters have the ability,

equipment, and technology to effectively suppress most wildfires. But 3% of the time

wildfires burn so intensely that there is little firefighters can do. Presented at right are

firefighter tactics as they relate to wildfire flame length. Compare this to the flame lengths

shown in “Examples of Local Fire Behavior.”

3,000 acres can burn

after one hour.

150

acres

can burn

after

one hour.

3,400

acres can

burn after

one hour.

When wildfire flame lengths exceed 11 feet, direct firefighting efforts are ineffective. Under these

conditions firefighters use roads, streams, and other barriers to control the wildfire.

FLAME

LENGTH

Less than 4 feet

4 to 8 feet

8 to 11 feet

More than

11 feet

EFFECTIVE FIRE SUPPRESSION TACTICS*

Fireline constructed with hand tools, such as shovels

and axes, can be effective at the front of the fire.

Bulldozers and other heavy equipment will be needed to

construct an effective fireline. Where bulldozers are not

available, fire engines with hoses and water will be

required to “knock down” the flames before the fire

crews with hand tools can be effective. Or fire crews

must construct a fireline at a considerable distance from

the fire.

Airtankers with fire suppressing retardant or helicopters

with water are required to reduce the fire’s rate of spread

before fireline construction by crews or bulldozers can

be effective.

Direct fire suppression efforts will be ineffective.

Retreat to existing roads, streams and other barriers.

Burn out vegetation between the fireline and the

advancing fire front to eliminate wildfire fuels.

5,900 acres

can burn

after one hour.

Photograph courtesy of Ben Hammack.

CROWN FIRES: Crown fires occur when a ladder of

vegetation allows fire to climb to tops of pine and fir trees.

Flames can jump 100+ feet high and send burning embers

more than a mile away .
THE THREE R’s OF DEFENSIBLE SPACE

This technique involves the elimination of entire plants, particularly trees and shrubs, from the site. Examples of removal are

cutting down a dead tree or cutting out a flammable shrub.

The removal of plant parts, such as branches or leaves, constitute

reduction. Examples of reduction are pruning dead wood from

a shrub, removing low tree branches, and mowing dried grass.

Replacement is substituting less flammable plants for more hazardous vegetation. Removal of a dense stand of flammable

shrubs and planting an irrigated, well maintained flower bed is

an example of replacement.

Removal

Reduction

Replacement

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS ABOUT DEFENSIBLE SPACE

More and more homes are being built in high fire hazard

environments.

HOW DO I CHANGE THE VEGETATION ON MY

PROPERTY TO REDUCE THE WILDFIRE

THREAT?

The objective of defensible space is to reduce

the wildfire threat to a home by changing the

characteristics of the adjacent vegetation.

Defensible space practices include:

• increasing the moisture content of

vegetation.

• decreasing the amount of flammable

vegetation.

• shortening plant height.

• altering the arrangement of plants.

This is accomplished through the “Three R’s of

Defensible Space.” The article “Creating An

Effective Defensible Space” provides detailed

information about changing vegetation characteristics for defensible space.

In the 1980’s, the term “defensible space” was

coined to describe vegetation management practices aimed at reducing the wildfire threat to

homes. This article responds to some of the

commonly asked questions about defensible space.

WHAT IS DEFENSIBLE SPACE?

Defensible space is the area between a house and an

oncoming wildfire where the vegetation has been modified

to reduce the wildfire threat and to provide an opportunity

for firefighters to effectively defend the house. Sometimes, a defensible space is simply a homeowner’s properly

maintained backyard.

WHAT IS THE RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN

VEGETATION AND WILDFIRE THREAT?

Many people do not view the plants growing on their

property as a threat. But in terms of wildfire, the vegetation adjacent to their homes can have considerable

influence upon the survivability of their houses. All

vegetation, including plants native to the area as well as

ornamental plants, is potential wildfire fuel. If vegetation is

properly modified and maintained, a wildfire can be

slowed, the length of flames shortened, and the amount of

heat reduced, all of which assist firefighters to defend the

home against an oncoming wildfire.

THE FIRE DEPARTMENT IS SUPPOSED

TO PROTECT MY HOUSE, SO WHY

BOTHER WITH DEFENSIBLE SPACE?

Some individuals incorrectly assume that a

fire engine will be parked in their driveway

and firefighters will be actively defending

their homes if a wildfire approaches. During

a major wildfire, it is unlikely there will be

enough firefighting resources available to

defend every home. In these instances,

firefighters will likely select homes they can

most safely and effectively protect. Even with

adequate resources, some wildfires may be

so intense that there may be little firefighters

can do to prevent a house from burning.

The key is to reduce fire intensity as wildfire

nears the house. This can be accomplished

by reducing the amount of flammable

vegetation surrounding a home. Consequently, the most

important person in protecting a house from wildfire is not

a firefighter, but the property owner. And it’s the action

taken by the owner before the wildfire occurs (such as

proper landscaping) that is most critical.

DOES DEFENSIBLE SPACE REQUIRE A LOT OF

BARE GROUND IN MY LANDSCAPE?

No. Unfortunately, many people have this misconception.

While bare ground is certainly effective in reducing the

wildfire threat, it is unnecessary and unacceptable due to

appearance, soil erosion, and other reasons. Many homes

have attractive, well vegetated landscapes that also serve

as effective defensible space.

DOES CREATING A DEFENSIBLE SPACE REQUIRE

ANY SPECIAL SKILLS OR EQUIPMENT?

No. For the most part, creating a defensible space

employs routine gardening and landscape maintenance

practices such as pruning, mowing, weeding, plant

removal, appropriate plant selection, and irrigation.

Equipment needed includes of common tools like a chain

saw, pruning saw, pruning shears, loppers, weed-eater,

shovel, and a rake. A chipper, compost bin, or a large

rented trash dumpster may be useful in disposing of

unwanted plant material.

HOW BIG IS AN EFFECTIVE DEFENSIBLE SPACE?

Defensible space size is not the same for everyone, but

varies by slope and type of wildland vegetation growing

near the house. See the article entitled “Creating An

Effective Defensible Space” for specific information.

DOES DEFENSIBLE SPACE MAKE A DIFFERENCE?

Yes. Investigations of homes threatened by wildfire

indicate that houses with an effective defensible space are

much more likely to survive a wildfire. Furthermore, homes

with both an effective defensible space and a nonflammable roof (composition shingles, tile, metal, etc.) are

many times more likely to survive a wildfire than those

without defensible space and flammable roofs (wood

shakes or shingles). These conditions give firefighters the

opportunity to effectively and safely defend the home.

DOES HAVING A DEFENSIBLE SPACE GUARANTEE MY HOUSE WILL SURVIVE A WILDFIRE?

No. Under extreme conditions, almost any house can

burn. But having a defensible space will significantly

improve the odds of your home surviving a wildfire.

WHY DOESN’T EVERYONE LIVING IN A HIGH WILDFIRE HAZARD AREA CREATE A DEFENSIBLE SPACE?

The specific reasons for not creating a defensible space

are varied. Some individuals believe “it won’t happen to

me”. Others think the costs (time, money, effort, loss of

privacy, etc.) outweigh the benefits. Some fail to implement defensible space practices simply because of lack of

knowledge or misconceptions.

Photo courtesy of Dave Hill

Photograph courtesy of Ben Hammack.
100feet 200feet 200feet

30feet 100feet 200feet

CREATING AN EFFECTIVE DEFENSIBLE SPACE*

...A Step-by-Step Guide

Are you worried about the wildfire threat to your home, but aren’t sure how to get started in

making your home defensible? Follow these six steps to an effective defensible space...

STEP ONE: HOW BIG IS AN

EFFECTIVE DEFENSIBLE SPACE?

The size of the defensible space area is usually

expressed as a distance extending outward from the

sides of the house. This distance varies by the type of

wildland vegetation growing near the house and the

steepness of the terrain.

On the “Recommended Defensible Space Distance”

chart presented below, find the vegetation type and

percent slope (see “Homeowners Guide to Calculating

Percent Slope”) which best describes the area where

your house is located. Then find the recommended

defensible space distance for your situation.

For example, if your property is surrounded by

wildland grasses such as cheatgrass, and is located on

flat land, your recommended defensible space distance

would extend 30 feet from the sides of the house. If

your house is on a 25% slope and the adjacent wildland

vegetation is dense tall brush, your recommended

defensible space distance would be 200 feet.

If the recommended distance goes beyond your

property boundaries, contact the adjacent property

owner and work cooperatively on creating a defensible

space. The effectiveness of defensible space increases

when multiple property owners work together. The local

assessor’s office can provide assistance if the owners of

adjacent properties are unknown. Do not work on

someone else’s property without their permission.

Temporarily mark the recommended distance with

flagging or strips of cloth tied to shrubs, trees, or stakes

around your home. This will be your defensible space

area.

1) Find the percent slope which best describes your property.

2) Find the type of vegetation which best describes the wildland plants growing on or near your property.

3) Locate the number in feet corresponding to your slope and vegetation. This is your recommended defensible space distance.

*Please note the recommendations presented in this article are suggestions made by local firefighters experienced in protecting homes from wildfire. They are not requirements nor

do they take precedence over local ordinances.

Wildland grasses (such as cheatgrass),

weeds, and widely scattered shrubs with

grass understory.

Includes shrub dominant areas.

Includes forested areas. If substantial grass

or shrub understory is present, use those

values shown above.

DEFENSIBLE SPACE

RECOMMENDED DISTANCES—STEEPNESS OF SLOPE

STEP TWO: IS THERE ANY DEAD

VEGETATION WITHIN THE RECOMMENDED

DEFENSIBLE SPACE AREA?

Dead vegetation includes dead trees and shrubs,

dead branches lying on the ground or still attached to

living plants, dried grass, flowers and weeds, dropped

leaves and needles, and firewood stacks. In most

instances, dead vegetation should be removed from the

recommended defensible space area. A description of

the types of dead vegetation you’re likely to encounter

and the recommended actions are presented below on

the next page.

VEGETATION TYPE

30feet 100feet 100feet
Remove all standing dead trees from within the defensible

space area.

Remove all down dead trees within the defensible space

area if they have recently fallen and are not yet embedded

into the ground. Downed trees that are embedded into

soil and which cannot be removed without soil disturbance

should be left in place. Remove all exposed branches

from an embedded downed dead tree.

Remove all dead shrubs from within the defensible space

area.

Once grasses and wildflowers have dried out or “cured,”

cut down and remove from the defensible space area.

Reduce thick layers of pine needles to a depth of two

inches. Do not remove all needles. Take care not to

disturb the “duff” layer (dark area at the ground surface

where needles are decomposing) if present. Remove dead

leaves, twigs, cones, and branches.

Remove all dead leaves, branches, twigs, and needles still

attached to living trees and shrubs to height of 15 feet

above ground. Remove all debris that accumulates on the

roof and in rain gutters on a routine basis (at least once

annually).

Locate firewood and other combustible debris (wood

scraps, grass clippings, leaf piles, etc.) at least 30 feet

uphill from the house.

DEAD FUEL TYPE

STANDING DEAD TREE

DOWN DEAD TREE

DEAD SHRUBS

DRIED GRASSES AND

WILDFLOWERS

DEAD NEEDLES, LEAVES,

BRANCHES, CONES

(ON THE GROUND)

DEAD NEEDLES, LEAVES,

BRANCHES, AND TWIGS

(OTHER THAN ON THE GROUND)

FIREWOOD AND OTHER

COMBUSTIBLE DEBRIS

RECOMMENDED PRACTICE

TYPES OF DEAD VEGETATION AND RECOMMENDED PRACTICE

STEP THREE: IS THERE A CONTINUOUS

DENSE COVER OF SHRUBS OR TREES PRESENT

WITHIN THE RECOMMENDED DEFENSIBLE SPACE

AREA?

Note: Separation distances are measured between

canopies (outermost branches) and not between trunks.

For example, if your home is located on a 10% slope

and the brush is four feet tall, the separation distance

would be two times the shrub height or eight feet.

The recommended separation distance can be accomplished by removing plants or through pruning that

reduces the diameter or height of shrubs (shorter

height means less separation is needed). Removal

works best for sagebrush. For shrubs which readily

resprout, pruning to reduce height may be the best

approach.

Recommended Separation

Distances for Shrubs and

Small Conifers

For areas with dense brush and small conifer trees,

the recommended separation distance is dependant

upon shrub height and steepness of slope. Specific

recommendations are presented below.

Sometimes wildland plants can occur as an uninterrupted layer of vegetation as opposed to being patchy or

widely spaced individual plants. The more continuous

and dense the vegetation, the greater the wildfire threat.

If this situation is present within your defensible space

area, you should “break-it-up” by providing a separation

between plants or small groups of plants.

Not only are steep slopes often considered high

wildfire areas, they are also highly erodable. When

removing shrubs and trees from steep slopes, keep soil

disturbance to a minimum. Also, it may be necessary to

replace flammable vegetation with other plant materials

to prevent excessive soil erosion.

Continuous, dense

uninterrupted

vegetation

Patchyvegetation or

widely spaced

individual plants.
Note: Separation distances

are measured between

canopies (outer most

branches) and not

between trunks.

For example, if your house is

situated on a 30% slope, the

separation of tree canopies within

your defensible space should be 20

feet. Creating separation between

tree canopies can be accomplished

through tree removal.

STEP FOUR: ARE THERE LADDER FUELS PRESENT WITHIN THE

RECOMMENDED DEFENSIBLE SPACE AREA?

Vegetation is often present at varying heights, similar to the rungs of a ladder.

Under these conditions, flames from fuels burning at ground level, such as a thick

layer of pine needles, can be carried to shrubs which can ignite still higher fuels

like tree branches. Vegetation that allows a fire to move from lower growing

plants to taller ones is

referred to as “ladder fuel.”

The ladder fuel problem

can be corrected by

providing a separation

between the vegetation

layers.

Within the defensible

space area, a vertical

separation of three times

the height of the lower fuel

layer is recommended.

For example, if a

shrub growing adjacent to

a large pine tree is three

feet tall, the recommended

separation distance would

be nine feet. This could be

accomplished by removing

the lower tree branches,

reducing the height of the

shrub, or both. The shrub

could also be removed.

For forested areas, the recommended amount of separation

between tree canopies is determined by steepness of slope. The

specific recommendations are

presented above.

Recommended Separation Distances

Between Tree Canopies

ation
THE LEAN, CLEAN, AND GREEN CHECKLIST

❏Emphasize the use of low growing herbaceous (non-woody) plants that are kept green during the fire season

through irrigation if necessary. Herbaceous plants include lawn, clover, a variety of groundcovers, bedding

plants, bulbs, perennial flowers, and conservation grasses.

❏Emphasize use of mulches, rock, and non-combustible hard surfaces (concrete sidewalks, brick patios, and

asphalt driveways).

❏Deciduous ornamental trees and shrubs are acceptable if they are kept green and free of dead plant material,

ladder fuels are removed, and individual plants or groups of plants are arranged so that adjacent wildland

vegetation cannot convey a fire through them to the structure. Shorter deciduous shrubs are preferred.

❏ Minimize the use of ornamental coniferous shrubs and trees (such as juniper, arborvitae, and mugo pine) and

tall exotic grasses (such as pampas grass).

❏ Where permitted, most wildland shrubs and trees should be removed from this zone and replaced with more

desirable alternatives (see first box). Individual specimens or small groups of wildland shrubs and trees can be

retained so long as they are kept healthy and free of dead wood, are pruned to reduce the amount of fuel and

height, and ladder fuels are removed.

❏For some areas substantial removal of wildland vegetation may not be allowed. In these instances, wildland

vegetation should conform to the recommendations presented in steps 2 through 4. Please become familiar

with local requirements before removal of wildland vegetation.

❏Tree limbs within 15 feet of a chimney, encroaching on powerlines, or touching the house should be removed.

STEP FIVE: IS THERE AN AREA AT

LEAST 30 FEET WIDE SURROUNDING YOUR

HOUSE THAT IS “LEAN, CLEAN, AND GREEN”?

The area immediately adjacent to your house is particularly important in terms of an effective defensible space.

It is also the area that is usually landscaped. Within an

area extending at least 30 feet from the house, the

vegetation should be kept....

• Lean—small amounts of flammable vegetation,

• Clean—no accumulation of dead vegetation or other

flammable debris, and

• Green—plants are healthy and green during the

fire season.

The “Lean, Clean, and Green Zone Checklist” will help

you evaluate the area immediately adjacent to your

house.

STEP SIX: IS THE VEGETATION WITHIN

THE RECOMMENDED DEFENSIBLE SPACE AREA

MAINTAINED ON A REGULAR BASIS?

Keeping your defensible space effective is a continual

process. At least annually, review these defensible space

steps and take action accordingly. An effective defensible space can be quickly diminished through neglect.

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Fire-Wise Plant Material for the Pacific Northwest

Although there are no fire proof plant materials, the following is a list of some firewise plants that

can be used in landscaping for fire prevention. Landscape maintenance is far more important to

fire prevention than the selection of plant materials. When planning your landscape, use the

characteristics of firewise-plants along with site characteristics such as slope, aspect, hardiness

zone and amount of precipitation to choose plant material suitable for your site.

TREES common name

Conifers;

Calocedrus decurrens Incense cedar

Thuja plicata Western red cedar

Deciduous:

Acer spp. Maple

Alnus spp. Alder

Betula Birch

Catalpa speciosa Northern catalpa

Celtis occidentalis Hackberry

Cornus florida Flowering dogwood

Fagus spp. Beech

Fraxinus spp. Ash

Gleditsia tricanthos Honeylocust

Liquidambar styraciflua Sweetgum

Malus spp. Apple

Populus spp. Aspen, cottonwood, poplar

Prunus spp. Cherry

Quercus spp. Oak (white, burr or red)

Robinia pseudoacacia Black locust

Salix spp. Willow

SHRUBS common name

Amelanchier spp. Serviceberry

Atriplex canescens Four wing saltbrush

Berberis spp. Oregon Grape

Buddelia davidi Butterfly bush

Caryopteris x clandonensis Blue-mist spirea

Cornus sericea Red osier dogwood

Cotoneaster spp. Cotoneaster

Gaultheria shallon Salal

Holodiscus discolor Oceanspray

Liqustrum spp. Privet

Mahonia spp. Creeping grape holly

Pachistima canbyi Dwarf mountain lover

Philadelphus spp. Mock orange; syringa

Rhamnus fragula Buckthorn

Rhododendron spp. Azaleas, rhododendrons

Rhus spp. Sumac

Ribes spp. Currant

Sheperdia argentea Silver buffaloberry

Symphoricarpos albus Snowberry

Viburnum trilobum Cranberry bush

Yucca spp. Yucca

FIRESCAPE - FIRE SAFE

LANDSCAPE DESIGN

Firescaping is a type of landscape design that

reduces a home’s vulnerability to wildfire. The goal is to

develop and design a landscape with plants that offer

fire protection and enhance the property. The idea is to

surround the home with things that are less likely to

burn.

Proper plant selection, placement and maintenance

can diminish the possibility of ignition, lower fire

intensity, and reduce how quickly a fire spreads.

Zone 1: Moist and Trim

Choose “firewise” plants. Low-growing, firewise

plants resist catching fire and provide little fuel. Lawns,

groundcovers, perennials and annuals form a greenbelt

that is regularly watered and maintained to eliminate dry

plant litter. Rock mulches, patios, masonry or rock

planters are excellent fuel breaks. Be creative with

boulders, riprap, and dry streambeds. This zone may

contain occasional individual shrubs and trees located at

least 10 feet from the house.

The traditional foundation planting of junipers is

not a viable solution in a firescape design. Because

junipers, other conifers and broadleaf evergreens contain

oils, resins and waxes that make these plants burn with

great intensity, use of these plants should be minimized

within 30 feet of structure. A firescape landscape lets

plants and garden elements reveal their innate beauty by

leaving space between plants and groups of plants.

Characteristics of

Firewise Plants

• Little seasonal accumulation of dead vegetation

• Open, loose branching habit

• Non-resinous woody material, avoid junipers and

other conifers

• Low volume of total vegetation

• High moisture content in leaves

• Slow growth requires less frequent pruning

Zone 2: Low and Sparse

Slow growing, drought tolerant shrubs and

groundcovers keep fire near ground level. Native

vegetation can be retained here if it is low growing and

does accumulate dry, flammable material. The transition

between zones creates breaks in the path to slow

advancing flames.

PERENNIALS common name

Achillea spp. Yarrow

Allium schoenoprasum Chives

Bergenia spp. Bergenia

Brodiaea spp. Lillies

Coreopsis spp. Coreopsis

Erysimum linifolium Wall flower

Eschscholzia spp. California poppy

Fragaria spp. Wild strawberries

Geranium spp. Geranium

Hemerocallis hybrids Daylillies

Heuchera spp. Coral bells

Hosta spp. Hosta

Iris spp. Iris

Kniphofia uvaria Red hot poker

Lupinus spp. Lupine

Oenotheria spp. Evening primrose

Penstemon spp. Beard tongue

Solidago spp. Goldenrod

Strachys byzantina Lamb’s ear

Lawn can be an effective landscape feature in

Firescaping.

Photo courtesy of Ben Hammock

Zone 3: High and Clean

Fire intensity is reduced where it can burn less fuel.

Native trees are thinned and dry debris on the ground is

removed. Prune tree branches to 10’ or more above

ground to reduce the possibility of surface fires spreading into tree crowns. This zone requires removing

overgrowth and major pruning every three to five years.

Specimen trees can be planted at the edge of this zone if

pruned properly.

Regular Maintenance

Experience and research has shown that a distance

of 100-150 feet around your home needs this comprehensive landscaping. Greater distances are necessary on

steep slopes or windswept exposures.

Most plants accumulate excess woody material and

all shed seasonal foliage. Branches spread, often

touching other vegetation. Weeds grow between

landscape plants. You must actively reduce this accumulation of potential fuel by regular pruning, mowing and

raking, followed by proper disposal. The less accumulated plant debris, the slower a fire will spread.

GROUNDCOVERS common name

Succulents:

Delosperma nubigenum Hardest ice plant

Echeveria spp. Hens & chicks

Sedum spp. Stone crops

Non-succulents:

Achillea tomentosa Wolly yarrow

Ajuga reptans Carpet bugle

Arctostaphylos uva-ursi Kinnikinnick

Armeria maritima Sea pink; thrift

Cerastium tomentosa Snow in summer

Cotoneaster dammeri Bearberry cotoneaster

Euonymus fortunei Winter creeper

Hypericum calycinum St. Johnswort

Potentilla tabernaemontanii Spring cinquefoil

Senecio cineraria Dusty miller

Thymus praecox arcticus Mother of thyme

Verbenia bipinnatifida Verbenia

Vinca minor Periwinkle
OTHER CONSIDERATIONS IN

MAKING YOUR HOME SURVIVABLE

How a house is designed, where it is built, materials used in its construction and landscape, and access to the home all influence survivability during wildfire. Presented below are recommendations and an illustration modified from the publication “How to Make Your Home Fire Safe.” These recommendations will make a home much easier to defend and will improve its chances

of surviving a wildfire.

FIRE BRANDS AND THE WOOD

SHAKE ROOF HAZARD

Firebrands are burning embers produced by

wildfire which are lifted high into the air and carried

beyond the fire front. Firebrands are one of the

major causes of homes burned due to wildfire.

Typical firebrand materials include pine cones,

bark, and if houses are involved, wood shakes and

shingles. Depending on wind speed and size of

materials, firebrands can be carried more than onehalf mile ahead of the fire front.

A shower of thousands of firebrands can be

produced during a major wildfire event. If these

firebrands land in areas with easily ignited fuels,

numerous spot fires can start. Homes located blocks

away from the main fire front can be threatened.

A house can be threatened by a wildfire in three

ways: direct exposure from flames, radiated heat,

and airborne firebrands. Of these, firebrands account

for the majority of homes burned by wildfire. The

roof of the house is the most vulnerable to firebrands.

Because of its angle, the roof can catch and trap

firebrands. If the roof is constructed of combustible

materials such as untreated wood shakes and

shingles, the house is in jeopardy of igniting and

burning.

Not only are combustible roofing materials a

hazard to the structure on which they are installed,

but they also pose a threat to other houses in the

vicinity. Burning wood shakes can become firebrands, be lifted from the burning roof, and carried

blocks away, and land in receptive fuel beds such as

other combustible roofs.

Unfortunately for homeowners with existing

combustible roofs, there are no long-term reliable

measures available to reduce roof vulnerability to

wildfire other than re-roofing with fire resistant

materials.

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1. ROOF

• Your roof is the most vulnerable part of your house in

a wildfire. If you have a wood shake roof consider

replacing it with class C or better fire resistant

roofing.

• Remove dead branches hanging over your roof.

• Remove any branches within 15 feet of your

chimney.

• Clean all dead leaves and needles from your roof and

gutters.

• Cover your chimney outlet and stovepipe with a

nonflammable screen of one-half inch or smaller

mesh.

2. CONSTRUCTION

• Build your home away from ridge tops, canyons and

areas between high points on a ridge.

• Build your home at least 30 feet from your property

line .

• Box your eaves.

• Use fire resistant building materials.

• Enclose the underside of balconies and above-ground

decks with fire resistant materials.

• Limit the size and number of windows in your home

that face large areas of vegetation.

• Install only dual-paned or triple-paned windows.

• Consider sprinkler systems within the house. They

may protect your home while you’re away or prevent

a house fire from spreading into the wildlands.

3. LANDSCAPE

• See “Creating An Effective Defensible Space” and

“Firescape - Fire Safe Landscape Design.”

4. YARD

• Stack woodpiles at least 30 feet from all structures

and clear away flammable vegetation within 10 feet

of woodpiles.

• Locate LPG tanks (butane and propane) at least 30

feet from any structure and surround them with 10

feet of clearance.

• Remove all stacks of construction materials, pine

needles, leaves and other debris from your yard.

• Contact your local fire department to see if open

burning is allowed in your area; if so, obtain a permit

before burning debris.

• Where burn barrels are allowed, clear flammable

materials at least 10 feet around the barrel; cover the

open top with a non-flammable screen with mesh no

larger than one-quarter inch.

5. EMERGENCY WATER SUPPLY

• Maintain an emergency water supply that meets fire

department standards through one of the following:

— a community water/hydrant system

— a cooperative emergency storage tank with

neighbors

— a minimum storage supply of 2,500 gallons on

your property

• Clearly mark all emergency water sources and notify

your local fire department of their existence.

• Create easy firefighter access to your closest emergency water source.

• If your water comes from a well, consider an emergency generator to operate the pump during a power

failure.

6. ACCESS

• Identify at least two exit routes from your neighborhood.

• Construct roads that allow two way traffic.

• Design road width, grade and curves to allow access

for large emergency vehicles.

• Construct driveways to allow large emergency

equipment to reach your house.

• Design bridges to carry heavy emergency vehicles,

including bulldozers carried on large trucks.

• Post clear road signs to show traffic restrictions such

as dead-end roads, and weight and height limitations.

• Make sure dead-end roads and long driveways have

turnaround areas wide enough for emergency

vehicles. Construct turnouts along one-way roads.

• Clear flammable vegetation at least 10 feet from

roads and five feet from driveways.

• Cut back overhanging tree branches above roads.

• Construct fire barriers, such as greenbelts, parks, golf

courses and athletic fields.

• Make sure that your street is named or numbered, and

a sign is visibly posted at each street intersection.

• Make sure that your street name and house number

are not duplicated elsewhere in the county.

• Post your house address at the beginning of your

driveway, or on your house if it is easily visible from

the road.

7. OUTSIDE

• Designate an emergency meeting place outside your

home.

• Practice emergency exit drills regularly.

• Make sure that electric service lines, fuse boxes and

circuit breaker panels are installed and maintained as

prescribed by code.

• Contact qualified individuals to perform electrical

maintenance and repairs.

*If connected to the

house, i.e., fences and

decks, consider

it part of the house.
Should homes be threatened by wildfire, occupants may be advised to evacuate to protect

them from life-threatening situations. Homeowners, however, do have the right to stay on their

properties if they so desire and so long as their activities do not hinder fire fighting efforts. If

occupants are not contacted in time to evacuate or if owners decide to stay with their homes,

these suggestions will help them protect their properties and families.

WHEN WILDFIRE APPROACHES

The University of Nevada, Reno is an Equal Opportunity/Affirmative Action, ADA institution. 2/01. Produced by Creative Services.

❏ Evacuate, if possible, all family members not essential

to protecting the house. Evacuate pets as well.

❏ Contact a friend or relative and relay your plans.

❏ Make sure family members are aware of a prearranged

meeting place.

❏ Tune into a local radio station and listen for instructions.

❏ Place vehicles in the garage, have them pointing out,

and roll up windows.

❏ Place valuable papers and momentos in the car.

❏ Close the garage door, but leave it unlocked. If applicable, disconnect the electric garage door opener so that

the door can be opened manually.

❏ Place combustible patio furniture in the house or garage.

❏ Shut off propane at the tank or natural gas at the meter.

❏ Wear only cotton or wool clothes. Proper attire includes

long pants, long sleeved shirt or jacket, and boots. Carry

gloves, a handkerchief to cover face, water to drink, and

goggles.

❏ Close all exterior vents.

❏ Prop a ladder against the house so firefighters have easy

access to the roof.

❏ Make sure that all garden hoses are connected to faucets

and attach a nozzle set on “spray.”

❏ Soak rags, towels, or small rugs with water to use in

beating out embers or small fires.

❏ Inside, fill bathtubs, sinks, and other containers with

water. Outside, do the same with garbage cans and

buckets. Remember that the water heater and toilet tank

are available sources of water.

❏ Close all exterior doors and windows.

❏ Close all interior doors.

If a fire should occur within the house, contact the fire department immediately. Continue to inspect

your house and property for embers and smoke.

Most importantly,

STAY CALM!

❏ Open the fireplace damper, but place the screen over the

hearth to prevent sparks and embers from entering the

house.

❏ Leave a light on in each room.

❏ Remove lightweight and/or non-fire resistant curtains

and other combustible materials from around windows.

❏ If available, close fire resistant drapes, shutters, or

venetian blinds. Attach pre-cut plywood panels to the

exterior of windows and glass doors.

❏ Turn off all pilot lights.

❏ Move overstuffed furniture (e.g. couches, easy chairs,

etc.) to the center of the room.

❏ Keep wood shake or shingle roofs moist by spraying

water. Do not waste water. Consider placing a lawn

sprinkler on the roof if water pressure is adequate. Do

not turn on until burning embers begin to fall on the

roof.

❏ Continually check the roof and attic for embers, smoke,

or fire.

Photo courtesy of Jim Linardos

Fire Drill

To find out if your home makes the grade,

answer the following questions. Your goal is to

make your home survive a wildfire, so be honest

in evaluating your progress.

*True/False

❑ T ❑ F I have a minimum 30-foot noncombustible area around my home

❑ T ❑ F My landscaping includes

fire-resistive varieties

❑ T ❑ F I have evaluated my wood shake

roof for treatment or replacement

❑ T ❑ F Overcrowded or weakened trees

have been thinned or removed

from my property, and lowhanging branches have been

pruned

❑ T ❑ F The grass and weeds are

consistently cut

❑ T ❑ F My wood pile and left-over

building materials are at least 30

feet from my house

❑ T ❑ F I’ve cleared needles, leaves and

debris from my roof and deck

❑ T ❑ F Street signs and the address of

my home are visible from the road

❑ T ❑ F I have an emergency checklist in

the event of a wildfire, and I know

to monitor local media for

up-to-date information

*If you answered False to any of these questions,

bone up your efforts and try again! The more

correct answers you give, the greater your chances

of survival––and passing the ultimate test!

Pacific Northwest Wildfire

Coordinating Group

• NW Fire Prevention Cooperatives

• Oregon Department of Forestry

• Oregon Office of State Fire Marshal

• Washington Department of Natural

Resources

• Washington Office of State Fire Marshal

• USDA Forest Service

• US Department of Interior

Bureau of Indian Affairs

Bureau of Land Management

National Park Service

Fish and Wildlife Service

FOR MORE INFORMATION

www.firewise.org

www.firefree.org

www.firesafespokane.com

www.nifc.gov

www.fema.gov

www.firesafecouncil.org

In May of 1999, the University of Nevada, Reno (Cooperative Extension and Agricultural

Experiment Station) and the Sierra Front Wildfire Cooperators initiated a program entitled

Living With Fire. One of the products of the Living With Fire program was a publication for

homeowners.

The Pacific Northwest Prevention Working Team for the Pacific Northwest Wildfire Coordinating Group reviewed and modified this publication for use throughout

the Northwest.

For more information please contact your local fire service office.