PHEiAN

HOUSING PUBUCATIDN BH15

S ^iifcJii^^T&EPARTMENT OF COMMERCE

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U. S. DEPARTMENT OF COMMERCE

ROBERT P. LAMONT, Secretary BUREAU OF STANDARDS

GEORGE K. BURGESS, Director

CARE AND REPAIR OF THE HOUSE

INCLUDING MINOR IMPROVEMENTS

By

VINCENT B. PHELAN

BUILDING AND HOUSING PUBLICATION BH15

[ Issued March 31, 1931 ]

UNITED STATES

GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE

WASHINGTON : 1931

For sale by the Superintendent of Documents, Washington, D. C. - - - Price 20 cents

C
IV COXTEXTS

Page XII. Painting and varnishing 82

1. General observations 82

2. Quality and care of materials 82

3. Selection and care of brushes 83

4. Methods of applying and brushing 84

5. Exterior painting 84

6. Interior painting 87

7. Painting stucco or concrete 87

8. Painting brick or stone surfaces 89

9. Painting on plaster 89

10. Painting metal work such as roofs and gutters 90

11. Varnishing 91 XIII. Electricity 92

1.

Some precautions to be observed in using electricity_ 92

3. How to cut off the current 93

4. Replacing a fuse plug 94

5. Repairing an electric doorbell 95

6. How to splice electric wires 97

7. Repairing damaged appliance cords 98 XIV. Miscellaneous 99

1. How to stop creaking of floors 99

2. Relieving a sticking drawer ' 101

3. How to make a miter box 101 XV. Closing the house : 102 XVI. Other sources of information 103 XVII. List of published material of interest to home owners 104 XVIII. Glossary 113 XIX. Check list 114 XX. Index 119 ILLUSTRATIONS

Figure

1. Essential parts of a house 2

2. Cross section of foundation wall showing draintile and exterior coat- ing 8

3. Two types of support used in roof repairing 23

4. A method of repairing valley flashing 27

5. Hinge readjustments to correct binding or sticking doors 30

6. Door-Jamb section showing filler strip 33

7. Section showing a striking latch bolt 34

8. Glazing 37

9. Double-hung window details 41

10. A convenient screen storage rack 45

11. Window-head details showing methods of flashing 50

12. Applying split pipe covering around hot-water heating pipes 59

A 1. i 4 A.,- 14. Covering warm-air furnace pipes facing 62

15. Method of marking pipe-bend covering for cutting 62

16. Insulating a warm-air furnace facing 62

17. Typical radiator valve facing 63

18. Typical water shut-off cock facing 63

19. Section of a compression faucet 68

20. Section of a Fuller faucet facing 70

21. A ground-ke}^ faucet 70

22. Section of a water-closet tank- facing 70

23. Section of a typical water-closet flush valve 75

24. A P-type trap showing clean-out plug and joints facing 78

25. A “plumber’s friend” .-facing 78

26. Section through a water-closet bowi showing use of a coil spring-steel auger facing 78

27. Typical bell circuit 97

28. Method of splicing electric wires 93

29. Details of an electric-cord plug 99 30. A homemade miter box 191
CARE AND REPAIR OF THE HOUSE

Including Minor Improvements

I. INTRODUCTION

^ Every house, even the most carefully built, needs attention and

j repair occasionally to keep it in good condition and to retard deprej ciation. Like other kinds of property, a house will show signs of wear and begin to decline in value, if it is not properly cared for.

; Repair jofc which require special knowledge and skill should be

I done only by a qualified person. Others can be performed by the

ji householder who is handy with tools. Perhaps the majority find

the making of small repairs and improvements enjoyable and have

j some degree of skill in this direction.

li Thousands of householders who have the ability to make small

I repairs and improvements satisfactorily and who desire to effect the

I savings which result hesitate to undertake the work because they

i lack simple and specific directions for determining the causes of

j common defects and failures that occur in the house and its equipI ment and instructions for correcting them.

! This handbook is written to assist those who are sometimes faced

j with vexing problems in the care and repair of the house. It aims

! to point out the more common conditions of disrepair arising in the

house from time to time, to describe briefly their causes, and to preI scribe the tools, materials, and methods to be employed in their corI rection. It also deals to some extent with minor improvements that

may be effected by the amateur mechanic who wishes to make his

: house more attractive, more comfortable, and of greater value.

jll. INSPECTION OF THE HOUSE AND ITS EQUIPMENT

I Some householders give their houses attention only when acute

trouble, such as a leaky roof or burst pipe, demands it, but it is neither wise nor safe to wait until something breaks or gives way

i completely. Such troubles should be anticipated by making regular

; inspections and applying remedies where needed. Many of the

I inconveniences and discomforts experienced in the household may

'thus be avoided, and considerable money may be saved.

1, The house may be inspected by members of the family owning

I or occupying it, who are often aware of some of its defects and

inconveniences, or by an experienced workman whose knowledge

jand skill should enable him to discover defects not apparent to

I the average householder.

1
2 CAKE AND REPAIR OF THE HOUSE

When outsiders are employed to do repair work it is often advantageous to have it done, when possible, during the least busy season

of the building year. At that time workmen in the building trades,

as well as builders and repairmen, are glad to have employment

and will generally do the work more reasonably.

1. Footings. 25. Chimney. 49. Sliding door.

2. Basement floor. 26. Corner post. 50. Wainscoting.

3. Foundation wall. 27. Plate. 51. Stair soflBt. 4. Buttress. 28. Diagonal sheathing. 52. Metal lath.

5. Steps. 29. Sheathing paper. 53. Platform.

6. Platform. 30. Shingle. 54. Newel post.

7. Porch column. 31. Balcony. 55. Hearth.

8. Porch cornice. 32. Veranda. 56. Fireplace.

9. French doors. 33. Piers. 57. Casement window.

10. Frame wall. 34. Water table. 58. Rough head.

11. Eaves cornice. 35. Underpinning. 59. Bridging.

12. Gable end. 36. Clean-out door. 60. Rough sill. 13. Rake cornice. 37. Subfloor. 61. Truss over opening.

14. Finial. 38. First-floor joists. 62. Ceiling joists. 15. Valley. 39. Finish floor. 63. Studding.

16. Chimney flashing. 40. Column base. 64. Second-flooi- joists. 17. Shingle battens. 41. Plaster partition. 65. Ribbon board.

18. Ridge board. 42. Column cap. 66. Gutter.

19. Common rafter. 43. Iron column. 67. Balustrade.

20. Hip rafter. 44. Girder. 68. Leader head.

21. Purlin. 45. Window sill. 69. Dormer window.

22. Collar beam. 46. Pilaster. 70. Handrail.

23. Jack rafter. 47. Ground course. 71. Drain.

24. Chimney cap. 48. Brick wall. 72. Lattice. If one is handy with tools and able to perform the ordinary tasks,

he probably will wish to make his own inspection, in which case the following brief description of where to look and what to look

for, may be helpful^ (see fig. 1, Essential parts of a house) : The remedies will be disctissed later.
CARE AND REPAIR OF THE HOUSE 3

I Foundation Walls and Basement.

1 To avoid overlooking important points, the inspection should be

conducted in a systematic manner. The inspection might well begin

in the basement.

Examine the foundation walls for cracks and observe whether

I mortar in joints is loose or has fallen out. The floor should be

I examined for cracks or signs of disintergration, and any evidence

I of leakage through the walls or the floor should be noted.

If there are wooden sills on top of the walls, see whether they

i are sound and whether cracks between wall and sills are calked to keep out moisture and cold air. See whether there is fire stopping on the sills between floor joists

and, if so, whether it fits snugly, especially around pipe openings.

i (Careless fire stopping allows fire to spread and permits rodents

j to get into the walls above.

)

I If the basement is not ceiled, the joists can be examined for signs

jof sagging or of warping. These defects often occur because the supjport or bridging is not sufficient. Look for possible shrinkage in

1

; the framing.

i See whether there are signs of damage in posts, sills, joists, and

I other woodwork caused by termites or other destructive insects.

jlAlso look for evidences of decay from dry-rot, especially in sills )or at ends of joists adjoining masonry.

|| Make sure that all exposed water pipes are protected from freezi|ing, especially if located under a porch, or in some other unheated

! space. If there are floor drains in the basement or garage, see that there

I is sufficient water in them to maintain a seal in the traps.

I Heating Equipment.

I As there are various types of heating systems, the details of the

I inspection of such equipment will necessarily vary. The most

I favorable time for this inspection is in the spring when the plant

is shut down for the season.

1 If the smoke pipe is taken down in the spring, and cleaned, and

! put in a dry place until fall, its life will be greatly prolonged.

Ashes should be removed from the fire box and ash pit and soot

[I from the chimney. The bafiles in a hot-water boiler above the

I fire box also require frequent brushing to remove soot. The hinges

' of the boiler doors should be oiled and the doors left open during the

j summer.

I If the grates are warped or broken, or if the walls of the fire box

jare cracked, such matters should be noted and repairs made, or new

parts ordered promptly. Boilers should be examined for possible

i cracks or leaks.

f The coating on the boiler may need patching, or some of the heat-

'l ing pipes may require covering.

I Examine the chimney to see whether it needs pointing and whether

the cement is sound around the smoke pipe where it enters the

j chimney. Notice whether woodwork adjoining the chimney requires

I covering to lessen the fire hazard.

I Stoves and stovepipe should be carefully inspected during the

‘ summer, and necessary repairs or replacements should be made before the colder seasons begin.

Q
4 CAEE AND REPAIR OF THE HOUSE

Exterior Walls. ' After the structure and equipment of the basement have been ; thoroughl}^ examined, the inspection of the exterior parts of the i house might follow. J If the walls are of masonry, look for cracks or broken bricks, or ^ blocks, especially above door and window openings, and see whether | mortar joints require pointing. Also note if there is efflorescence (moldy or white blotches or streaks) on the face of the wall, particu- j larly below window sills and near down spouts. I The principal signs of defects or deterioration in stucco are cracks ! and the chipping off or falling out of particles. The most likely ; places to observe such signs are over doors and windows and near the

j ground. These surface marks are more readily seen after a rain,

where dampness penetrates. Discoloration in the form of dust or

* rust streaks may appear below window sills or other ledges.

If the house is of frame construction, examine the siding for loose or decayed boards. Look for blisters on painted surfaces and indications of cracking or of the paint peeling off'. As blisters are ! generally caused by moisture back of the paint film, look for the

possible sources of such moisture, as, for instance, leaky roofs, down

spouts, or water pipes.

Exterior Side of Windows.

See whether flashing is provided over the widow caps to turn the

water and, if so, whether it is in good condition.

Look for holes or large cracks at window sills. They will appear

if the inside stool, or ledge, is not well nailed down. They may

exist where parting strips and pulley stiles meet the sill, or where

the top sill joins the wood or brick subsill. If backhand molding is used around the top and sides of the outside casing, see that it is nailed tightly against the casing.

Probe between the frame and the wall at each side of the window

to see whether calking is needed to keep out dampness and cold. While looking over the windows examine the putty around the

panes to find out whether it is firmly in place.

Roof, Flashing, and Gutters. Leaks in the roof are seldom easily detected from the outside, h If the attic is unceiled, holes in the roofing are often readily visible

‘ from the inside, in which case they can be marked by pushing straws

or wires through the holes to protrude above the roof surface. If i the attic is ceiled there may be stains on the plaster indicating

leakage.

If the roof is of slate, tile, wood shingles, or composition shingles, J

examine closely to see if any pieces have been broken or blown off, i

or are loose. In the case of wood or composition shingles, see if I they are warped, or partly decayed, or disintegrated. . |i If the house is covered with metal roofing, look for holes, cracks,^; !l or open joints. See if paint or special coating has worn off. A||j

similar examination should be made where roll roofing has been|d

used. iii!

I

^

I
CARE AND REPAIR. OF THE HOUSE O

Examine carefully the flashing around the chimney and vent pipes

and in the valleys of the roof, and note whether there are signs of

its rusting or of its being out of place.

Leaves, rubbish, and birds’ nests in gutters may stop up the down

spouts if the debris is not removed. If there are strainers over the

mouths of the down spouts see whether they are clear. Also notice

the condition of gutters and conductor pipes and determine whether

they need replacing or whether they require a coat of paint.

Skylights should be examined for signs of leakage. The frame

may need painting and the putty around the glass may need to be

replaced. Note whether the flashing around the base of the frame is in good condition.

In looking over the chimney top, see whether all the bricks are in

place and whether pointing is needed. If a cap is used, it should

be securely cemented to the chimney. If there is no special chimney cap, see that mortar is spread over the top of the brickwork and

sloped down from the flue opening to the outside edge of the

chimney.

Interior Portion.

Defects in the interior of a house are generally more apparent than

those on the outside. A clogged drain, a leaky faucet, or a sticking

door or window, quickly attracts the attention of some member of the

household. There may be other faults, however, which frequently

are not noticed, except by inspection.

Examine all doors to see how true they hang and to find out if they squeak. Raise and lower all windows to learn how they slide

and whether or not the cords are broken or are of unequal length.

Observe how the sash fit and see if weather stripping is needed

around the windows and doors. Notice whether there are any openings in or around the screens where insects can enter. If baseboards do not fit snugly to the floor it is usually because they

have shrunk, but in some cases the floor supports have settled and

caused the condition. Creaking in a floor may be detected by bearing heavily upon various sections of it. Look for cracks in the plaster, particularly over door openings,

and note whether there is danger of plaster falling in case the ceiling

is cracked.

Household Equipment.

When the structure of the house has been inspected, it might

be well to examine some of the equipment' where trouble may develop.

Inspect the cords on all electrical appliances to see whether they

should be renewed, and examine all exposed wires for poor insulation. Be sure there are extra fuses for the fuse box in case one is needed.

If gas is used for cooking, the burners on the gas stove may need

cleaning, or the air vents may require adjusting. If gas is used for

lighting, see wliether gas tips need cleaning or whether mantles

should be replaced. Never search for a gas leak with a match, candle,

lantern, or with the aid of any other burning lighting appliance.

Q
6 CAEE AND REPAIR OF THE HOUSE

III. LIST OF TOOLS AND SUPPLIES

The tools listed below are those recommended for the jobs de-

!^;eribed in this handbook.

The first list includes those most frequently needed. Such a

set of tools will enable the householder to perform the ordinary tasks

in the upkeep of a house.

Claw hammer.

Two screw drivers (one large, one

small)

.

Wire-cutting pliers.

Monkey wrench.

Hand saw (crosscut).

Two wood chisels (i/4-inch and

%-inch )

.

Small flat paintbrush.

Jackknife.

Putty knife Hack saw. Cold chisel. Folding rule. Hatchet.

Gimlet. Smoothing plane.

The second list includes special tools which are very useful, but

are not required so often as those in the above list. The advisability

of their purchase rests with the individual householder.

Kip saw. Gasoline blow torch. Jack plane. Coil spring- steel pipe-cleaning auger. Miter box. Seat-dressing tool for valve seats. Vise. Force pump.

Plasterer’s trowel. Suction pump.

Steel crowbar. Carpenter’s level. Pinch bar.

Steel square. Nail set (iB-inch). Mason’s trowel.

“ Plumber’s friend.” Three-cornered file. Stilson wrench.

Carpenter’s pencil.

Metal shears. Brace and bits. Soldering iron. Glass cutter. Drawknife.

Galvanized water bucket. Small washtub.

Funnel. Flash light.

The following supplies will be found useful in many cases and

should be kept on hand to meet emergencies

:

Sandpaper.

Sponge. Seat washers.

Candles. Assorted nails. Assorted screws. Friction tape.

Rubber tape. Electric fuses. Nuts and bolts. Wire (copper and iron). Soft solder. Rubber tubing (small).

Materials, as well as tools, required for specific jobs are mentioned

throughout the text of this handbook. Bureau of Standards Circular No. TO, Materials for the Household (259 pages), may also be

lielpful in this connection. This circular is listed on page 108 of

this handbook.

IV. FOUNDATION WALLS AND BASEMENTS

1. REMEDYING A DAMP OR WET CELLAR

In general, there are two classes of cellars where wetness prevails

all or part of the time. First, those which may be classed as damp,

where the walls and floors seem to “ sweat ” and where moisture runs down the walls. This damp condition is more pronounced during
I CAKE AND REPAIR OF THE HOUSE 7

long, wet periods. Second, the cellar into which water flows freely

’ during heavy rainfall or when snow is melting rapidly, resulting in a flooded condition.

Frequent Causes of Damp Cellars. In the first or damp type the difficulty is sometimes caused by

I penetration of moisture through the walls and floor because of

I improper subdrainage. More often, however, the damp condition

I is due to- condensation of moisture on chilled wall surfaces.

I Flooding will be found, in most cases, to be caused by defective

walls, careless back filling, or improper grading around the walls,

I which allows surface water to pass into the cellar. In any case, the condition of the walls themselves should be ex- amined in order to detect cracks or loose mortar, and repairs should

1 be made in accordance with instructions contained in section 2 of this

i chapter (pp. 10 to 11).

' Diverting Surface Water from Foundation Walls.

Since wet cellars often result from water penetrating the walls or

f floors, provision should be made to carry o-ff this water before it

I comes in contact with the foundation.

!! Water from eaves should be carried away by adequate gutters,

j conductors, and down spouts. The down spouts should be connected

'I to a drain emptying into a storm sewer, dry well, open water course,

jl or other suitable outlet. (Many communities prohibit the draining

of surface water into sanitary sewers.) Where down spouts are not

1 so connected, it is advisable to place a spatter board or splash block

I of good size at the outlet to throw the roof water away from the wall.

I Quick shedding of water is essential and in many cases this may

be accomplished by proper grading. The usual method is to place

I additional filling against the cellar wall and grade it down to a

J sharp, smooth slope that extends at least 8 or 10 feet from the wall.

I The slope should be sown with good lawn grass seed or sodded, and

' then rolled firmly and evenly. If necessary to grade above the

j cellar window sills, a curved or rectangular area wall of concrete or

j brick should be built around them. Hinged covers for closing the

I openings during heavy rains or snow may also be provided. In any

case it is advisable to provide some means of drainage for these

ground depressions and to place a protecting grill or grating over

^ the opening.

Another method sometimes employed to turn surface water away

jfrom cellar walls is to lay a concrete pavement, walk, or gutter, 2

or 3 feet in width, around the house with a gradual slope away from

the walls. Where the sidewalk joins the wall, the wall surface

j should be roughened, cleaned, and moistened and the concrete

I rounded up to meet the face of the wall. This method will make a

i’ good bond and turn water away from the joint.

The gutter type of construction is used to conduct surface water

along the wall and lead it to some low spot. The gutter should be

j at least 2 feet wide over all, with an outer lip, or edge, about 5 inches

1 in width. The depression should be about 4 inches deep at the outer edge and sloped gradually up to meet the wall, and the joint should

be treated in the same manner as above recommended for the

sidewalk.

Q
8 CARE AND REPAIR OF THE HOUSE

Providing Drains to Carry off Ground Water.

In low damp locations, or in other places where there is a large

amount of water in the subsoil, it is advisable to install draintile

around the footings to lower the water table, or water level, and to carry the water away before it can penetrate into the cellar. (See

fig. 2.) Where conditions are unusually bad, waterproofing may

be necessary in addition to the drain.

To lay the tile, dig a trench adjoining, and to a depth of a few

inches below the level of the bottom of the cellar floor but not below

the footing level. The tile should be at least 4 inches in diameter

(although 3 -inch tile has proved satisfactory in some cases) and

Figure 2.

Cross section of foundation wall showing

draintile and plaster coat should be laid so that the grade or fall will be smooth and as sharp

as possible to avoid settlement of mud within the pipe. The tile should also be connected to an outlet similar to those recommended

for down spouts. The cracks between the joints should be covered

with pieces of tin or strips of roofing paper, to prevent sediment

running into the pipe. The pipe should be carefully laid and protected against settlement or breakage under strain, but surrounding it with fine screened gravel or broken stone, tamped firmly

around it. Following this, coarser material up to 1 inch in size should be covered over the pipe to a depth of 1 or 2 feet. Before

back filling to grade with earth, it is well to spread burlap or bagging

or to place sods, grass side down, on top of the stone to prevent fine material falling or washing down into the stone.
CARE AND REPAIR OF THE HOUSE 9

ij

il Waterproofing Methods—Exterior Surfaces.

i: j If waterproofing is to be applied, it should, of course, be done be-

[ I fore back filling. There are various methods used, depending largely

j upon local conditions.^ In applying a coating to a wall, it is well

to put it on the outside. Water is thus prevented from entering the

wall, and water pressure tends to force the coating into tighter con-

[i tact. If the coating is placed on the inside, water pressure through

I the wall may force it away.

i Cement Plaster Coats.

I Where ground-water conditions are not especially bad and damp-

'

j ness only is to be guarded against, a cement-mortar coating is easiest

I! to apply and is perhaps in most common use. This may consist of

ji a half-inch coating of Portland cement mortar (mixed jn the pro-

[ portion of 1 sack of Portland cement to 2 cubic feet of clean, wellgraded sand, plus finely divided materials, such as hydrated lime or

‘ diatomaceous silica), or a plastic cement applied to the exterior surface of the wall with a trowel. To insure a good bond, the wall

! surface should be thoroughly scraped and cleaned with sharp-edged

, instruments and a wire brush and then dampened before the mortar

I is applied.

Bituminous Coatings.

i It is best to cover the surface with a bituminous coating if worse

I conditions than mere dampness exist. This may consist of a simple

j coating of coal-tar pitch or asphalt, or may be a built-up covering

J of alternate layers of the bituminous material and tar paper. These

i coatings are often used alone on new walls, or in cases where the

! walls are in such good condition that they do not require the plaster

j coat. If walls are rough, however, like brick, stone, or concrete

j block, they usually require a plaster coat before being waterproofed.

In applying cold bituminous coatings, first apply a priming coat

j of the same bitumen thinned with gasoline or with kerosene to the

I consistency of paint. This mixture is applied cold with a mop or

large brush and is intended to soak into the pores and provide a

j good bond for the top coating.

The ordinary bituminous coatings are usually applied hot and

j swabbed on with a roofing mop to a thickness of at least one-eighth

; inch. Several coats may be applied if necessary, and dull spots,

1 which indicate absorption, should be touched up until a uniform

shiny appearance is produced.

' There have been recent developments in the application of such

materials, one of which is the use of compressed air to shoot ” the

material upon the surface in much the same manner as that employed

in paint spraying.

" Bituminous layers, or membranes, are similar to ordinary bitumi- nous coatings, except that they are much thicker and consist of alter- nate layers of bituminous material and tar paper. The membranes

should be used in extremely wet conditions or where there is water

pressure against the walls from a spring or other source. The number of layers to be applied depends on the conditions to be overcome.

- In most larger cities there are representatives of waterproofing companies who are

glad to inspect damp basements and make recommendations for waterproofing.

Q
10 CAKE AND REPAIR OF THE HOUSE

Damp Proofing Methods—Exterior Surfaces.

For damp proofing a brick foundation wall, heavy penetrating

bituminous damp-proofing paint may be used, after which a cement

mortar coat may be troweled directly on the painted surface, to prevent the paint from flaking and peeling.

The application of a coating of any material upon the inner sur- faces of walls that are pervious to water is generally ineffective. If

such method is used, however, a thick layer of mortar is suggested.

This should be made of 1 part Portland cement and 3 parts of wellgraded sand mixed with as little water as practicable. The mortar

should be applied to the dampened wall after the leakage through

the wall has stopped. The finished coat should be kept damp for a week after it has set to increase its water-tightness.

Good Ventilation Essential.

Fresh air and sunshine are essential to a dry cellar, and to this end

plenty of window space should be provided. When the air out of

doors is cool and dry, open the windows freely. When there is dampness without, keep the windows closed, as warm, moist air results

in mildew and condensation of moisture upon the colder surfaces

within the cellar. A little care in these respects will aid materially

in maintaining a dry cellar.

2. REPAIRING CRACKS AND REPOINTING JOINTS

Cracks or fissures in foundation walls and the falling out of mortar

from between joints may be attributed to various causes. Cracks between mortar and the material to which it was originally

bonded may be caused by shrinkage of the mortar during setting, or soon thereafter, or by the expansion of mortar through saturation.

Often the volume change of the mortar is greater than the material

to which it is bonded and sets up a movement that destroys the bond.

If the walls are built on ground that will not support an equal

weight at all points, uneven settlement may cause cracks to develop.

An underground spring or flowing water under one corner or sec- tion of a foundation may produce similar results. Small cracks thus started may become larger in time from action

of the weather and other forces. Frost has a tendency to attack weak

spots, and expansion and contraction, due to extremities of heat and

cold, do their part in increasing the damage. Water seeping through

the cracks gradually wears away the material and causes it to crumble and fall apart. The disintergration is generally more rapid

in mortar joints.

The results of these failures are far-reaching and, if not remedied,

may result in further damage, not only to the walls themselves but

to the structure they support. A cellar will probably become damp

and insanitary if these inlets for moisture are not stopped up. Degree of Damage—Skill Required for Repair.

If the walls are otherwise in good condition, minor cracks and

places where mortar has fallen out may be repaired by an unskilled

workman. If, however, a wall is badly cracked and crumbled and

beyond the aid of minor repairs, it may be necessary to engage an

experienced workman to reconstruct all or part of the wall.
CARE AND REPAIR OP THE HOUSE 11

\\TooIs,

i j The minor repairs in this section require the following tools: A

j hammer, a sharp-edged and pointed instrument (such as a cold chisel or old screw driver), a wire brush or old whisk broom, a small mixing board, mason’s trowel, and a water bucket.

I Materials.

Portland cement, a finely divided material such as hydrated lime,

j clean sharp sand, and water.

I Preparing the Old Surfaces.

Loose mortar between masonry courses should be chipped and

! picked out and the joint brushed thoroughly to remove all dust and

loose particles. The cleaned surface should be dampened before new

mortar is applied, so that the water in the mixture will not be

absorbed.

I In the case of cracks in walls, especially in concrete walls, it is

I considered good practice to chip out the crack to a V or wedge shape,

J leaving the surface of the crack rough and irregular, so that the new

;! material may get a good grip and be held firmly in place. The

1 crack should then be brushed, as explained above, and dampened

I before new material is inserted.

i Material Mixtures to be Used.

j The same proportions of material may be used for both classes

i| of repairs referred to. A mixture of 1 part cement to 2% parts

j sand, or 1 part cement to 3 parts sand, is recommended in ordinary

I cases, but for damp cellars or those exposed to very moist conditions,

: a 1 to 2 mixture might be better. The proportion to be used deI pends entirely upon conditions and must be left to the judgment

I of the man on the job. A larger proportion of cement is necessarj^

j where excessive moisture prevails.

A 1 to 2 mixture represents 1 part of Portland cement to 2 parts of

sand, measured by volume. Enough water should be used to make

a fairly dry mortar of about the consistency of putty, and the mortar should be thoroughly mixed and worked to insure best results. In filling up cracks it should be applied like a calking material ; that

is rammed and tamped in well to form contact with all corners and

depressions and make a complete bond. When the crack has been

tightly packed, the surface should be smoothed off with a trowel.

In pointing up joints in masonry, the mortar may be applied with

a trowel and the surface finished to conform with the old mortar.

Care of the Finished Work.

" When the pointing up and repairing have been completed and the

material has hardened, the new work should be wetted down daily

for several days to increase the strength of the cement. If the work

has been done on the outside of walls, a tarpaulin or similar covering

should be suspended over it, to protect it from direct exposure to the sun and drying winds.

3. HOW TO MAKE A DARK CELLAR LIGHTER

Many cellars could be made lighter by enlarging the window

openings or by putting in additional ones, but if this is done, proper

lintels should be placed over the openings and such precautions taken

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12 CAEE AXD REPAIR OF THE HOUSE

as to insure the stability of the wall. Keeping clear the spaces in

front of cellar windows, especially by removal of shrubbery, grass, and weeds, will allow the maximum amount of light to enter. { The Use of Whitewash.

|

| A coat of whitewash will generally do much to brighten a dark

| cellar. It is the cheapest of all coverings and makes a sanitary! p coating. The surface to be treated should be cleaned of all dirfth' scales, or other loose material by brushing well with a clean, stiff] |

brush, or by first scraping and then brushing. If the walls haveT^i been previously whitewashed, all of the old material should be’ | washed off with a cloth or sponge and hot water. Nail holes and ] cracks should be filled with a_ mixture of 4 parts hydrated lime, or! ‘ lime putty, and 1 part of plaster of Paris, with enough water to . make a thick paste. The paste should be forced into the holes and

' carefully smoothed off flush with the surface by means of a putty

knife or old case knife.

Whitewashes and lime paints must be applied thin. In fact, best

results will be secured if the application is so thin that the surface

to which it is applied may easily be seen through the film while

it is wet. The coating will dry opaque, however, and the thin coat

will give better results than a thick one. If a brush is used, a large high-grade brush is preferable. One

should not attempt to brush out the coating, as in applying oil paint,

but simply spread the whitewash on as evenly and quickly as

possible.

Much time and labor can be saved, and a job as good, if not better

than when a brush is used, can be done by using a pressure spray

pump or a paint gun. In using either of these appliances, however,

the whitewash should be strained through cheesecloth, to free the

mixture from any lumps which might clog up the working parts

of the sprayer. An advantage in using a sprayer is that corners and f crevices are more readily covered than with a brush. A suitable

sprayer mai^ be purchased at a hardware or implement store. Two Whitewash Formulas.®

In basements where there is a tendency toward dampness, and

where a diirable nonrubbing wash is desired, the following formula

should be satisfactory and easy to prepare

:

Soak 5 pounds of casein^ (glue substitute) in about 2 gallons of water

(preferably hot) until thoroughly softened (about 2 hours). Dilute 3 pints of commercial ammonia with about 1 gallon of water. Add the ammonia to the casein and allow the mixture to dissolve thoroughly. Make a thick cream by

thoroughly mixing 50 pounds (1 sack) of hydrated lime and 6 gallons of water or by carefully slaking and screening 38 pounds (one-half bushel) of quicklime. When both the lime and the casein mixtures are cold, slowly add the casein-ammonia solution to the lime, stirring constantly. Just before use, di- lute 5 pints of formaldehyde with about 3 gallons of cold water and slowly add

this solution to the lime mixture, stirring constantly and vigorously. Be ^ careful not to add the formaldehyde too rapidly. Thin to desired consistencv. I

; 3 Whitewash foimulus from V hitewash and Cold Water Faint, a pamphlet issued by the National Lime Association. (This pampLlet is listed on p. 109.)

^ Casein may be obtained at drug stores or from the manufacturer. Skimmed milk may ii be used as a substitute for the casein and water. It is not so effective, but will produce - a much better whitewash than would be secured if the casein were omitted.
CAKE AND REPAIR OF THE HOUSE 13

If the basement is dry, the following iionmbbing formula should

be satisfactory:

Dissolve 3 pounds of glue in about 2 gallons of water. Make a thick cream

of 50 pounds (1 sack) of hydrated lime and about 7 gallons of water, or carefully slake 38 pounds (one-half bushel) of quicklime, straining the soft paste

through a fine screen. Add the glue solution to the lime, stirring constantly.

Thin to desired consistency.

The area covered by a gallon of either of the above mixtures depends on the nature of the surface. A gallon will cover about 225

square feet on wood, about 180 square feet on brick, and about 270

square feet on plaster. The first formula given will make about 16

gallons of whitewash and the second about 11 gallons. If a smaller

quantity is desired, the amount of each ingredient may be reduced

accordingly. For instance, for 4 gallons of whitewash, according

to the first formula, take one-fourth the amounts of liquids and

solids given and mix as specified.

Other Cellar Finishes.

If the walls are damp, the}?" should first be treated by a method

such as outlined in section 1 of this chapter (pp. 6 to 10. Cleaning

and brushing, as heretofore recommended, is also necessary.

After the walls have thoroughly dried, they may be treated and

painted with a cold-water wash or oil paint as described in Chapter

XII, section 7 (pp. 87 to 89).

If the cellar floor is below grade, it is not advisable to use oil paint, even though the floor appears to be dry. In this case, it can

be treated with sodium silicate or aluminum sulphate.® These

treatments when properly applied give a hard surface, bright and

uniform in appearance, and easy to keep clean. Better Lighting Facilities.

If the house is equipped for electricity, extension wires will permit

the use of portable or additional lamps in any part of the cellar. Frosted bulbs are best for cellar lighting, as they give a more uniformly diffused light. In so far as distribution of light is concerned,

two or three 25-watt frosted bulbs are better than one 50 or 100 watt

plain bulb.

In case a lamp is placed where the bulb is liable to be broken, it

is advisable to protect it with a wire basketlike covering or guard.

Porcelain fittings are recommended for cellar fixtures on account

of the danger of shock.

4. PUTTING A CEILING IN THE BASEMENT

Although it is common practice to omit ceilings in basements, a

ceiling in this part of the house improves the appearance, does away

with numerous corners and spaces between joists where cobwebs and

dust collect, and prevents dust from passing through the first-story

flooring to the rooms above, especially where the floors are of only

a single thickness.

® Described in Bureau of Standards Letter Circular 139, pp. 9 and 10. This circular can be obtained free of charge by addressing the Bureau of Standards, Washington, D. C. 30292°—31 2

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14 CAEE AND REPAIR OF THE HOUSE

Of far greater importance, if the ceiling is of tight-fitting fire- resistant materials, is the safety it affords by delaying the spreading

of a cellar fire to floors above, and by reducing smoke damage.

If the cellar is dry and well built, it can often be made into an

attractive place by x^utting in a ceiling, j^ainting the walls and

floor as described in Chapter XII, section 7 (pp. 87 to 89), and partitioning off the coal bin and furnace. It may then be used as a summer dining room, game room, or for other purposes if extra space

is needed.

Before putting on the ceiling, all openings, through which fire might find quick jDassage to the structure above, should be adequately

fire stopped. Such openings may be found around service pipes and

registers, and between joists or studs, where they join the foundation.

It is best to use incombustible materials for fire stopping, such as crushed refuse mortar, plaster, concrete, hollow tile, gypsum block,

broken brick, or other similar material, containing sufficient fine stuff to fill voids. The fire stopping can be suj)ported by horizontal

wood strips, not less than 2 inches thick, or by metal or wire mesh.

Several materials are used for ceiling purposes. Gypsum or asbes- tos board, plaster on metal lath or on gypsum plaster board, or metal ceiling, properly furred, may be used, depending on the taste of the individual and the amount that may be expended.

It is recommended that any such material within 2 feet of the top

of a boiler or furnace, or within 1 foot of a smoke pipe, shall at

least be protected by a loose-fitting metal shield, arranged to preserve an air space of an inch or two between the metal and the wood.

The air space may be provided by the use of small blocks of in- combustible material between metal and joists, or by suspending the

metal sheets on wires or hooks fastened to the joists. If tin is used

for a shield, it should have locked joints, as soldered joints are not

reliable. Similar i^rotection should be effaced over any woodwork or wood

lath and plaster partition, within I feet of the sides or back or 6

feet from the front, of any boiler, furnace, or other heating equipment. This covering should extend at least 4 feet above the floor,

and at least 3 feet beyond the heating device, on all sides. It is advisable to have all such installations insj^ected by a representative

of the fire insurance comjDany.

5. INSTALLING PARTITIONS IN THE BASEMENT

A dry,, clean, well-lighted, and well-ventilated basement can be

made a most useful part of a house by partitioning off spaces for

different xmrjDOses. It is generally necessary, at least, to partition off a coal bin, and sometimes the furnace also is inclosed to protect the

rest of the basement from dust and soot. The remaining space may

be divided off for a laundry, a workroom for the handy man, or a playroom for the children. It may also be desirable to provide a

cold room for the storage of preserves and fruits and vegetables.

If a definite storage space is set aside for garden tools, bicycles,

and various equipment, they can be kept in good condition and more

readily located when needed. An orderly arrangement in a basement tends to encourage neatness and lessen work.
I CARE AND REPAIR OF THE HOUSE 15

Before partitions are put in, a careful study of the requirements

should be made and a plan outlined, so that, regardless of the order

in which the partitions are built, they will conform to the general

scheme.

The partitions may be of wall board, lumber, brick, tile, or concrete, depending upon the wishes of the owner regarding permanence and the amount of money available for the purpose.

If the partition is to be sheathed with wall board or lumber it will be first necessary to construct a framework on which to nail the

sheathing. For this purpose, 2 by 4 inch lumber is generally used

for plates and studs, as in ordinary wall construction. , If wall board

is used, the studs should be placed on 16-inch or 24-inch centers depending upon the width of the material. If a tight, neat-appearing

wooden wall is desired, tongued-and-grooved three -quarter-inch

hoards may be used.

If brick, concrete blocks, or hollow tile are used, the question of

thickness is not important, as the wall is not a load-bearing wall.

It should, however, be substantial enough to withstand considerable

lateral pressure and rough usage.

V. EXTERIOR WALLS

1. REPAIRING CRACKS IN STUCCO

Since the use of stucco has become widespread there have been

many unsatisfactory results in such work due principally to faulty

construction and lack of knowledge as to proper methods of mixing

and applying the material. Cracks are the most common defects

found. They may be merely hair cracks, or may be large enough to admit moisture, which in turn may result in damage to the underlying structure and interior walls.

Hair cracks may be caused by using too rich a mixture or by

employing inferior stucco material. They may also result from

too rapid drying. Larger cracks are generally caused by settlement

of the walls of the house or by some movement within them, as a

result of improper foundations or poorly designed framing in the

superstructure.

Stucco over brick, stone, or similar materials is liable to crack,

especially around chimneys. The reason for this cracking is that

the stucco has a different rate of expansion and contraction than

the material that it covers, and a shearing stress or “ crawling ”

effect takes place in the plane of contact between the two materials.

- If cracks are unsightly and large enough to admit moisture, it is advisable to repair them. If, however, they are not very noticeable and seem to be doing no damage, it may be possible to postpone

repairs, since the plastered cracks may present a worse appearance

than the open ones. Tools,

A hammer, a sharp-edged and pointed instrument (such as a cold

chisel or screw driver), a wire brush or whisk broom, a mixing

board, a mason’s trowel, and a water bucket.

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16 CAKE AND EEPAIR OF THE HOUSE

Materials,

Portland cement, plastic cement, or Portland cement rendered

plastic by the nse of finely divided materials, clean sharp sand, and

water.

. ^ Preparing the Cracks Before Pointing.

Before pointing, clean out the cracks thoroughly and chip them

out to the shape of an inverted V so that the mortar may be keyed

securely to the old Avork. The cracks should be brushed to remove

all dust and loose particles and the cleaned surface and adjoining ;

( stucco dampened before neAv mortar is applied, so that the water i in the mixture will not be absorbed. 5 Pointing the Cracks. j In pointing it is desirable to use the same brand of cement and ’ mix to the same proportions as in the original work. If the previous

mixture can not be determined, it is usually safe to use a 1 to 3

mixture, containing 1 part cement, 3 parts sand, and one-tenth part

finely divided materials, such as hydrated lime, measured by volume.

The mortar should contain just enough water to make a fairly

dry mixture—of about the consistency of putty. It should be applied

like a calking material ; that is, rammed and tamped in well so that

it will make a complete contact and form a secure bond.

Care of Finished Work.

The new Avork should be Avetted doAvn daily for several days after

it has hardened to increase the strength of the cement. It is a good

plan, if practicable, to hang a tarpaulin or similar covering over the

completed work to protect it from direct exposure to the sun and

drying winds.

Concealing the Cracks.

If the cracks shoAv up badly after pointing work is finished, it may

be necessary to paint the entire surface Avith a cold-water wash or

oil paint, as described in Chapter XII, section 7 (pp. 87 to 89).

2. CLEANING A STUCCO SURFACE

When Portland cement stucco becomes soiled it may be washed

without injury by the application of water alone or water con- taining cleaning materials.

Ordinary dust and dirt may usually be removed by washing the " walls with Avater from a hose and brushing with a wire or fiber ' brush. If this does not accomplish satisfactory results, the surface

should be scrubbed vigorously Avith a soap-and-water solution and

then rinsed with clear aa ater. It is difficult to clean stucco thoroughly Avithout marring the surface. A dashed surface may be

badly injured by too much brushing and rubbing.

If the stucco has other than a pebble or stone-dash surface and is

[ badly soiled and stained, it may be washed with a solution of muriatic

acid ® (containing 1 part of acid to 6 or 7 parts of water) applied

® In mixing the solution, pour the acid very slowly into the water. Care should be exercised in the use of muriatic acid, as it is harmful to the skin and particularly to the

eyes. It is advisable to. wear glasses and gloves. If the acid should come in contact with the person, it can be removed by the use of large quantities of fresh water.
I! '.I|

1

'I

I CARE AND REPAIR OF THE HOUSE 17

with a fiber broom and then thoroughly rinsed with cold water. To

i remove every trace of acid, wash the surface again with very dilute

! ammonia (1 pint of ammonia to 2 gallons of water).

I For white cement stucco it is better to use a sulphuric-acid soliiI tion, as the muriatic acid has a tendency to produce a yellowish

I tinge on white cement.

I Stucco may be brightened, and all rust stains and other discolora

i tions concealed, by painting the entire surface with a cold-water

; wash or oil paint, as described in Chapter XII, section 7.

I

i 3. REMOVING EFFLORESCENCE FROM WALL SURFACES

I Efflorescence is the accumulation of salts upon the outer surface of

I a wall, particularly noticeable on those built of brick. It is a whitish,

crystalline deposit resembling hoarfrost or mold, and it usiiaily apI pears in patches.

I These salts may exist in mortar, brick, concrete stucco, or other

I masonry materials. They are brought into solution by water in the

ij wall, carried to the outer surface, and dejiosited there as the water

; evaporates.

I Efflorescence may be more pronounced in new work, owing to an

I excessive amount of water in the mortar and a maximum amount

of salts in the new materials. As the building becomes older, how-

! ever, the accumulation often disappears without being removed.

‘I It is commonly found in places where the wall is subjected to

I frequent wetting, as below window sills and copings, or near gutters

and down spouts where there may be leakage. A prolonged wet

j spell may also bring it out in other places.

I Water gets into the wall in various ways. In addition to the

j absorption of rain, melting snow, and humidity from the air, it may

! rise from the ground through mortar joints or seep in through

cracks around window or door frames.

I To Remove Efflorescence.

; Efflorescence may sometimes be removed by brushing the spots vig-

' orously with a stiff fiber or wire brush.

If this does not produce satisfactory results, prepare an acid wash

composed of 1 part of muriatic acid ^ and from 4 to 10 parts of

water, and scrub the spots well with a fiber brush dipped in the solution. Avoid the mortar joints as much as possible during the scrub-

, bing process and when the work is finished, rinse the surface of the

I wall with clear water. It is advisable to wash the surface again

i ^with a diluted solution of ammonia (1 pint of ammonia to 2 gallons

I of water) to remove every trace of acid.

I The deposits may reappear from time to time and require addij tional washings, but will disappear entirely when the supply of

[ soluble salts in the materials has been exhausted.

Precautions Against Recurrence.

Since efflorescence is caused by the evaporation of water which has

previously been absorbed, it is obviously important that the opportunities for this absorption be reduced as much as possible, if the

trouble is to be checked.

See footri'ote 6, p. l(i.

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18 CAKE AND EEPAIPv OF THE HOUSE

It is well to examine gutters and down spouts for leaks, and to

see that window sills and copings have drip grooves cut along the

underside, so that water running over them will not reach the wall

and run down its face. If conditions are unusually bad, and it is felt that the expense is warranted, there are a number of colorless waterproofing compounds

that may be applied to the surface of the wall to check absorption

and thus tend to eliminate the formation of efflorescence. VI. INTERIOR WALLS

1. REPAIRING CRACKS AND BREAKS IN PLASTER

The Architects’ Small House Service Bureau has given 40 reasons

for cracks in ceilings and walls. Space does not permit the enumeration of all these causes, but some of the more important ones are

listed below.

Structural Cracks.

Structural cracks, as the name implies, are caused by structural

weaknesses in a building, chief among which are : Settlement result- ing from inadequate or improperly located footings, the use of

undersized or improperly spaced members, omission of bracing, or shrinkage of lumber. These cracks are usually large and well defined, extending across the surface and through the plaster. They

may start near the corner of a door or window, or run up and down

the corner where two walls join, or along the joints between walls

and ceiling.

Map and Shrinkage Cracks.

Inferior workmanship and the use of a poor quality of plastering

materials are the main causes of what are known as “ map cracks ” and “ shrinkage cracks ” ; that is, shrinkage in the plaster itself. Map cracks are usually caused by improper bonding between

the plaster and the base. They are less noticeable than structural

cracks and go through the plaster, but do not extend entirely across the surface, as do the latter. They are made up of a series of cracks

running at various angles and embracing areas usually 6 inches or more across. Shrinkage cracks resemble map cracks, except that the cracks

themselves and the areas they inclose are much smaller. They differ

from the map cracks inasmuch as they do not go entirely through the

plaster and are usually confined to the finish coat. Careless workmanship is usually the cause of these cracks. In a sanded finish they are caused by plaster which is allowed to dry too rapidly or which it not sufficiently troweled. Troweling at the wrong time in a white finish will often produce equally unsatisfactory results. Loose Plaster.

Sometimes the keys or clinches that hold the plaster to the base

break off or become loosened and cause the plaster to bulge and

crack. On ceilings, especially, it will often hang in this condition

for a long time before falling off, being held together by the hair
CARE AND REPAIR OF THE HOUSE 19

li

:l

I or fiber in the plaster. Occasionally the nails or fastenings used to

i hold lath in place may corrode and break, allowing that part of

! the plaster covering the loosened lath, or laths, to sag and crack.

I Repairing Structural Cracks.

I Tools.

I For cracks and small holes a small diamond-shaped mason’s trowel

I or broad-bladed putty knife, for plastering larger areas a plasterer’s

I trowel and a shallow pan.

I Materials.

I Plaster of Paris or commercial patching plaster, a small amount of

I ordinary glue if necessary, and clean water.

I The repair of structural cracks, or cracks extending through the

" plaster to the base, does not require refinishing of the whole surface,

I and, consequently, may readily be done by the unskilled workman,

i To repair a deep crack, it is necessary to have the crack wide

i enough so that the fresh plaster may be forced in and form a good

;| bond with the old plaster. If the crack is not sufficiently wide, it

! should be scraped with a knife blade until the opening is at least

j one-quarter inch across. All particles of loose sand and plaster

i should be brushed out and the surface should be thoroughly wetted

I before the fresh plaster is applied. The plaster should then be

I pressed well into place and struck off flush with the surface of the

li main body of plaster. If tho old plaster has not been thoroughly

! wetted, it may draw the water out of the fresh plaster to such an

! extent that it will not set, but will dry out and remain in a chalky

j condition without appreciable strength. The drying out may be

i avoided by spraying water onto the surface after the plaster has set, and keeping the surface damp for a period of about 24 hours.

! Shrinkage Cracks.

Shrinkage cracks, which usually occur only in the finish coat, are

1 generally so numerous, if the job has not been well done, that it is necessary to refinish the whole surface, which work requires the

I services of an experienced plasterer.

Holes in Plaster.

The loose plaster around each hole should be removed, the re- maining sound plaster wetted thoroughly, and the plaster applied

in the same manner as prescribed for structural cracks. Because

j larger amounts of plaster are usually required for holes than cracks,

I it is advisable to retard the setting of plaster so that it may be worked

I -for a longer period. (The process of retarding is explained later in

this discussion.)

Bulged or Hanging Plaster.

j If the plaster is bulged or hanging it is best to remove all of

I the loose plaster around the break and apply new material. In

case the lath, or backing, has drawn away from the joists, it will

I have to be refastened before new plaster is applied. If the patch

is an unusually large one, it is generally best to employ a plasterer,

as this work requires so much skill that it is difficult for an amateur

j to make a neat-looking job.

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20 CARE AND REPAIR OF THE HOUSE |

I Mixing the Plaster. ^ All mixing boxes and utensils should be clean, and clean water ; should be used in the mix. Particular care should be taken that no

traces of old set plaster have been left in the mixing box.

The water should be placed in the mixing box before the dry j piaster is sifted into the water. The mix should then be stirred : thoroughly to dissolve all lumps. It should be of such a consistency , that the putty may be picked up on a broad-bladed knife and forced

into the crack or break in the wall. i Plaster of Paris. ] If only a small amount of fresh plaster is needed, plaster of Paris * alone may be used. Plaster of Paris sets very quickly. If it is to be used without a retarder, only so much should be mixed at one time as can be put in place in 10 minutes or less.

* To Retard the Setting of Plaster. I If the plaster sets too rapidly, and difficulty is found in getting it into place, the hardening may be retarded by the addition of small

amounts of ordinary glue dissolved in the mixing water. Commercial patching plasters usually contain retarding material so that

they may be worked for a longer period than the ordinary plaster

of Paris. They may also contain other ingredients to improve the

working qualities of the plaster.

2. PREVENTING DAMP SPOTS ON WALLS

Damp spots or more generally wet conditions on inside surfaces of

exterior walls are usually caused b}^ leakages around window frames

or by condensation of moisture on the chilled surfaces of the plaster.®

Occasionally, however, there may be leakages through a masonry

wall, but they are generally traceable to defective joints. Damp

spots may also be caused by leaking pipes and on ceilings, by sweat

-

ing pipes.

Tlie question is sometimes raised as to whether water coming

through brick walls penetrates the brick themselves. It has been

fairly well established that a wall made of a good grade of brick

will transmit little moisture through the brick. A thin brick wall

may become frosted through to the inside surface during unusually

cold, wet weather, and moisture which is often regarded as leajiage,

may be melted frost running down inside the wall. Leakage Through Joints.

Sometimes the quality or condition of the mortar in the joints, or the condition of the bond, may allow moisture to seep through the

joints. When the bricks do not make a good bond with the mortar,

shrinkage cracks may appear between the bricks and mortar as the

materials dry out. If the mortar is not of good quality, it may

disintegrate and fall out, causing leakage.

Occasionally there is leakage around a closure, or short piece of

brick, inserted to fill out a course. This leak occurs when the closure

® Discussions of leakages around window frames and condensation on inside wall sur- faces are contained in Ch. IX, secs. 2 and 5, pp. 49 to 51 and 54 to 55.
CAEE AND EEPAIR OF THE HOUSE 21

is not cut small enough to allow plent}' of mortar to be placed around

it on all sides. For best results bricks should be laid in a full bed of mortar, and

all vertical joints should be well filled and packed with mortar.

Vertical joints which are merely buttered ” with mortar, cause more leaky walls than almost any other single factor. All exterior

joints should be carefully struck smooth with the trowel to compress

the mortar in order to make it dense and impervious. Joints raked

out, or rough cut for artistic effect, are common causes foi* leaking

walls, since ice, snow, and rain water have an opportunity to lodge

in the recesses thus formed, and graduall}^ work through the wall.

Some prefer, when it is found that a particular spot or area of a wall requires frequent repointing to use an integral waterproofing

compound in the mortar, thoroughly mixing it with the other

ingredients.®

Repointing and Waterproofing.

Carefully examine the exterior surface of the wall where damp

spots appear, to see whether the mortar is in place and otherwise in

good condition.

If it is found that the mortar is cracked and has fallen out in

places, these joints should be repointed. For this purpose, a mixture

consisting of 1 part Portland cement, 3 parts well-graded but not

too coarse sand, and 10 to 15 per cent of the volume of cement in a

finely divided material, such as hydrated lime, is recommended.

When the right quantity of water is added, this makes a workable

mortar, which, if thoroughly mixed and troweled in well, should be

practically impervious to moisture.

Before beginning to point, remove all loose mortar and brush

small particles and dust out of the joints. Dampen the joints and

adjoining surfaces before applying the new mortar, so that the

moisture in the latter will not be absorbed.

After this preliminary work, pack the mortar tightly into the

joints to fill all voids and form a good bond with the old mortar

and bricks. The surface of the joint should then be troweled firmly

to make a smooth finish, preferably sloped downward to shed water

readily.

If the bricks seem unusually porous and it is felt that repointing

alone will not be sufficient to keep out dampness, the surface of the

wall may then be painted with a good waterproof paint. (See

Ch. XII, sec. 8.) If painting is not desirable, the face of the wall

may be coated with colorless damp proofing, of which there are

several kinds on the market.

Walls Next to Chimney.

Sometimes damp spots appear on the walls next to a chimney.

They may be caused by leakage through the joint between the chimney and roof, but are often brought about b}^ settling of the chimney

foundation, or vice versa, by the chimney not settling and the frame

shrinking and settling. If the top of the chimney is not properly

covered with a coping or chimney top, w^ater may run down between

® See Wet Walls and Efflorescence, American Face Brick Association, listed on p. 104

of this publication.

Q
22 CAEE AND REPAIR OF THE HOUSE

\

I

the bricks and the flue lining and appear on the surface of the walls ’ below. ij The connection between the roof and masonry of the chimney, or J any other masonry, should be flashed with metal to turn the water

j away from the joint. Before applying the flashing, calk the 13 joint with roofing cement to insure a water-tight job. After the

flashing has been applied, seal the cracks around the edges of the

flashing with roofing cement.

Leakage Around the Tops of Walls.

If the top of a parapet wall is not protected by a proper coping,

water may get in and run down through the wall and appear on the

inside surface. In this case a coping (or cap) of concrete, tile, or 1 metal, should be provided,

» VII. ROOFS AND ROOF DRAINAGE

1. REPAIRING A LEAKY ROOF

One of the principal sources of annoyance to the average householder is a leak in the roof. The roof is generally subject to the

hardest wear of any part of the house. Beating rains and sleet,

strong winds, scorching sunshine, and alternate freezing and thawing with sliding snow and ice, all contribute to the wear and tear on

the roof surface.

The flashing in valleys and around chimneys and where different

sections of the roof meet frequently causes trouble; this phase of

the problem is described in section 2 of this chapter (pp. 24 to 28).

The present section will be confined to a discussion of leaks in the

roof proper.

Importance of Prompt Repairs.

When a leak develops, it is important that repairs be made without ^ unnecessary delay. If repairs are neglected over a long period the

plaster may become cracked and loosened and eventually fall, and

the framework below the leak may rot. Even small leaks will often cause discoloration of wall decorations and stains on finished floors. Although it may not be possible for the average man to apply a new roof or to do extensive repair work, he should at least be able to patch up leaky spots until such time as more permanent repairs can be niade, or the old roof replaced with a new one. Recommended Safety Measures.

Do not attempt to walk on a steep roof without at least a strong

rope for support. This is the simplest of safety rules, and a rope

is usually adequate to insure balance for small patching jobs. It is advisable to wear tennis shoes or go shoeless on a pitched roof to insure better footing, and to avoid possible damage to the roof covering. Avoid walking on an old shingle roof or one of other brittle

material in making temporary repairs, as more leaks may be made.

In laying roofing or in making repairs, a long straight ladder or a so-called “ chicken ladder ” may be used. The ladder is made by

nailing 1 by 2 inch cleats about 1 foot apart to a 1 by 10 inch plank

or similar long board. Either type of ladder may be hooked
CARE AND REPAIR OE THE HOUSE 23

over the ridge of the roof, as shown in Figure 3. Hooks for this

purpose are made by nailing a strong piece of wood to each leg near

the upper end of the ladder at an angle with the legs, as shown in

the figure. This angle should conform as nearly as possible to the slope of the roof, and the pieces should be braced or stiffened

by nailing short boards across them and the legs of the ladder.

(See fig. 3.)

Locating the Leaks.

It is often difficult to locate the point of leakage from a wet spot on the ceiling, especially if the underside of the roof is not easy

of access, since water may follow along the roof boards or rafters

before dripping down. It is equally difficult to locate a hole from

the roof’s surface. However, if there is an unceiled attic in the

house, most small holes may be readily located from the attic on a

Figure .3. —Two types of sypport used in roof i^epo/lrmy

bright day. Even the most minute holes will be plainly visible and

may be marked by straws or wires pushed through the holes far

enough to protrude above the roof surface.

Making Temporary Repairs.

Leaks in a shingle roof may often be temporarily stopped by

inserting a new shingle, a piece of roll roofing or tarred felt, or a piece of tin under the shingles to cover the hole. If no sheet tin or

similar material is available, cut a tin can apart with a can opener

or heavy shears, flatten it out, and paint it on both sides before

using it. There are various roofing compounds on the market composed

of heavy plastic bituminous materials, which are recommended for

covering holes in roofs. These compounds may be applied with a heavy brush if a large surface is to be covered, or with a putty

knife or paint scraper if small holes or cracks are to be plugged.

The manufacturers of such compounds usually furnish directions

covering their use. Leaks in a composition-shingle roof may be repaired in much the same manner as those in a wood-shingle roof.

c
24 CAEE AND EEPAIK OF THE HOUSE

Small leaks in a metal roof may often be mended with a drop of

solder, after the spot lias been thoroughly cleaned to make the solder

hold.

It is not advisable for an inexperienced person to attempt to repair

a slate or tile roof, as such a task is difficult and he may cause additional damage.

Reroofing.

Although reroofing does not fall strictly under the head of repair

work it is closely associated with it. The type and condition of the

old roofing ma}^ make the removal of the old covering desirable, but

many of the modern types of roofing can be applied directly over

old Avood shingles or other kinds of material, and it is claimed that

there are numerous advantages in this method. Chief among these

is the insulation provided. Labor costs of removing the old material and cleaning up the premises after the work is completed are considerably reduced, and the scattering of dirt and debris over

the house and surroundings is eliminated. In case of rain during

the period of reroofing, the interior of the house is protected.

Before neAV roofing is applied over old, all loose shingles should

be nailed securely, protruding nails driven in, and the surface made

as uniform as possible. These precautions are necessary to insure a smooth finish on the roof and to avoid punching holes in the new

material.

In nailing the new roofing, care should be taken to avoid cracks

between boards underneath. In case a nail is driven through a crack

do not attempt to remove it, but drive another into the solid surface

close by. Sufficiently long nails should be used to fasten the covering

securely.

In reroofing Avith Avood shingles OA^er old Avood shingles, it is possible to obtain a neat job and to retain good roof lines. It may be

done by cutting aAvay a fcAv inches of the old shingles at the eaves and gables and laying in, Avhere they are cut away, a furring strip, or batten, to hide the sides and butts of the old shingles.

The Importance of Good Nails.

The deterioration of nails used for roofing purposes is the principal cause of many roof failures. Nails often rust out and break off, allowing the covering to become loose long before the material itself shows signs of AA^ear. The use of rust-proof roofing nails is, therefore, an important factor in preserAung roof surfaces. For wood

shingles, cut shingle nails are said to be best, and for composition

shingles and roll roofing large-headed roofing nails are preferred.

Rooting nails come in different lengths and should be selected ac- cording to the thickness to be penetrated. For tAvo layers of wood

shingles 5d (fiA^epenny) nails are best, and for one layer 3d (threepenny) are sufficient.

2. REPAIRING FLASHING TO PREVENT LEAKAGE

1

j

3

/

Flashing a roof is the process of making Avater-tight, by means of

a lap joint, the angle where a roof meets other intersecting surfaces.

It is employed at junctions betAA^een the roof and walls, chimneys,

skylights, and similar places, and in the valleys or depressions where 1
CARE AND REPAIR OF THE HOUSE 25

two planes of the roof join. Flashing around walls, chimneys, or

other vertical surfaces is designed to shed water from the joint,

causing it to seek lower levels; while flashing in valleys is intended

to conduct the water to the gutters.

Methods of Applying Flashing.

Several materials (cut in strips or pieces) such as lead, tin, copper,

zinc, galvanized iron, or roll roofing are used for flashing, and the

methods of applying them may vary according to conditions.

When flashing is placed against a vertical surface, there are different methods of fastening the upper edge of the flashing, depending on the material in the vertical surface; when placed against a brick or other masonry surface, the upper edge is usually bent and

inserted into a groove or joint in the masonry, and the crack sealed

with mortar or elastic roofing cement.

The best flashing material, and the one which should be used wherever possible, is one which is noncorrodible.

Sometimes two pieces are used in connection with masonry walls.

The first is bent in the middle, the upper half nailed to the vertical

surface of the wall, and the lower half nailed over one thickness of

roofing and covered by another thickness. The second piece, known

as counterflashing, is hung over the first to form an apron. It is suspended by bending the upper edge and inserting it into a joint in

the vertical surface of the masonry, as previously described. The

lap formed by the two pieces is fastened together and made watertight with elastic roof cement. Since the two pieces of flashing are independent of each other, they are not likely to break if parts of

the building settle or shrink.

Against stucco or other plastered \valls the upper edge of the flash- ing may be inserted behind the lath or fastened in such a way that

it will be covered by the plaster Avhen the latter is applied. In frame

construction the upper edge of the flashing is generally run up

behind the siding, or shingles, as the case may be. Where the vertical surface intersects another surface in a horizontal line, as at the face of a chimney nearest the eaves, or at a horizontal roof line at the base of a wall, the flashing is generally

extended down over the top course of the roofing, or the next course

to the top, and nailed down, after the space to be lapped has been

coated with elastic cement to make a tight joint. Similarly, when

a roof covered with roll roofing or other flat roofing material meets

a vertical surface in a horizontal intersection, the flashing from

the vertical surface usually extends down and is sealed and nailed

^on top of the roofing. However, where an}^ roof meets a vertical

surface in a sloping line, such as along the sides of a chimney on a sloping roof, and the roofing consists of shingles or similarly lapped

material, the “ over and under ” system of joint lapping is generally

employed. The “ over and under ” means that, working upward on

the roof, each succeeding piece of flashing extends from the vertical

surface down over a shingle on the roof, and is then covered by the

next higher shingle course. This course is then covered by the next

higher piece of flashing, and so on up the slope. For such an intersection where roll roofing is used, it is either turned up under the

side wall material, or the flashing is nailed over it, with elastic

cement applied between to seal the joint.

Q
26 CAEE AND EEPAIR OF THE HOUSE

At the back of a chimney which protrudes through a sloping' roof,

a so-called cricket, or saddle, is usually constructed in the roof’s

surface. As the name “ saddle ” indicates, it is a small ridge formed

behind the chimney to divide the water running down the roof and

throw it to each side away from the chimney instead of allowing it to dam up back of it. Water accumulating back of the chimney

might eventualy result in leakage at that point. Of course, the

joint between the chimney and cricket is also flashed.

In an open valley the flashing is applied before the roofing is laid. The roofing material is then extended over the flashing to make a lap joint.

Both open and closed valleys are used in roof construction. In

the open valley the center portion of the flashing is visible the entire

length and the open space is usually wider at the bottom than near

the ridge, to accommodate the increasing volume of water as it nears

the eaves. In the closed valley the flashing is inserted by the over- and-under method, so that it makes an unbroken surface, which is generally considered more pleasing in appearance. The flashing

material in either case should be wide enough to extend under the

roofing material a sufficient distance to insure good protection.^®

Causes of Leakage.

Occasionally metal-wall flashing may warp and be drawn out of

the groove or joint in the vertical surface or, when roll roofing is used, it may break at its junction with the vertical surface, allowing

water to run down behind it. The force of the wind may tear flash- ing loose from the face of the roofing allowing water to enter under

it during heavy rains. Valley flashings, if too narrow, may allow

water that is backing up to find its way under the roofing. This

seeping sometimes occurs when the valleys are dammed up with snow

and ice. Flashing material in valleys may corrode or break, causing

cracks or holes, through which water may enter and drip through

the joint below.

How to Make Repairs.

The approximate location of leaks in flashing may often be determined by wet spots on the walls or ceiling of the house. Carefully

examine the flashing above and near such spots to ascertain the exact

location and cause of leakage if possible.

If the leak is near a chimne}' or below the junction between the

roof and a vertical wall or similar surface, see whether the flashing

has become loose at any place. It ma}^ be found that the mortar has

fallen out and needs repointing after the flashing has been re])laced.

Elastic roohng cement and similar compounds are useful and effec- tive in sealing cracks around flashing.

If the flashing that extends over the top of roofing, as at the base

of a vertical surface, becomes loosened, it should be nailed down after

the underside of the lap has been Avell coated with elastic cement.

The elastic cement serves to seal the spaces around nails and the

cracks along the edges, which otherwise might allow leakage. It

For methods of flashing for open valleys, see Bureau of Standards Research paper, No. 123, listed on p. 110 of this handbook. See also Copper Flashing.s, Cooper and Brass

Research Association' and Zinc Workers’ Manual, American Zinc Institute, listed on p. 110.
CAEE AND REPAIR OF THE HOUSE 27

is also best to use short nails for this purpose in order to avoid penetrating through the roof boards.

When exposed metal flashing shows signs of rusting, it should be

painted with a good metal paint to preserve it from further corrosion. This paint coat should be examined at regular intervals and

renewed when it shows signs of wear. (See Ch. XII, sec. 10 iip.

90 and 91.)

’ To make valley flashing water-tight, it is advisable to cover witli elastic cement that portion which is to be overlapped, immediately

before applying the roof covering. This should seal the space between the two and prevent water from backing up over the edge of

the flashing.^^

If the flashing in a valley is too narrow, or if it is corroded or broken, it will probably be necessary to replace it with new pieces of

metal. This is not difficult in an open valley, but is rather trouble- some in a closed one.

Figure 4.

A method) of repairing valley flashing

In a closed valley covered with shingles, it is quite difficult to re- pair leaks in the flashing by pushing pieces of metal up under tlie shingles to cover the leaky spots, unless the metal is folded into a wedge-shaped point (as in A, fig. 4). Folding makes the task of

pushing the sheets past such obstacles as nails easier. If nails in- terfere too much, they can be cut off under the shingle with a plumber’s chisel or flat, sharp cold chisel and later replaced with new nails. The size of the sheets to be used for flashing depends oii the pitch of the roof and the exposure of shingles to the weather.

Insert piece A (see fig. 4) under top layer of first course of shingles

at the eaves and over the top of the old flashing and slide it up until

the upper point of the sheet is at least 2 inches above the butts of

the second course of shingles shown dotted at C.

Then insert another sheet under the second course of shingles

pushing it up on top of the old flashing until upper point is at A’. The lower point of this piece will show below the butts of the

second course of shingles, as at F.

See footnote 10, p. 26.
28 CARE AND REPAIR OF THE HOUSE

Continue this process until the top of the valley has been reached \ or until you are satisfied that all broken flashings have been covered.

On a well-nailed wooden-shingled roof, the sheets of flashing may

not require nailing, as the pressure of the roofing material should ! hold them in place, but if the shingles are loose, or if the roofing

is of flexible shingles, it will probably be necessary to nail each sheet

at a point which will be covered by the sheet above it. If a larger

sheet is used more of the flashing will be exposed at the base of the

shingle courses (as at fig. 4) and the nails in the lower flashing

will be completely covered. i If a good material is used the method just described makes a per- i manent repair and covers the cracks or holes rusted out in the angle i of the original flashing.

3. CLEANING OUT AND REPAIRING GUTTERS AND DOWN SPOUTS

Gutters and down spouts require some attention from time to time to keep them in good condition.

Keeping Gutters Clean.

Perhaps the most frequent difficulty arises from an accumulation ; of leaves, rubbish, and birds’ nests in the gutter, which, if not ! promptly removed, may stop up the opening to .the down spout and '• cause water to back up and flow over the edge. This overflow may j cause considerable damage if the gutters are built into the cor- nice so that the water finds its way down inside the walls of the i house. Unsightly streaks and stains on the exterior wall surfaces ; may also result if the overflow is not stopped. To prevent leaves

and other refuse from being washed into the down spout, it is advisable to place a wire basketlike strainer over the gutter outlet. Strainers are usually kept in stock by hardware dealers and are i inexpensive. Even though there be no stoppage or overflow, it is ' advisable to keep gutters clean, since rotting leaves if allowed to

; remain will cause the metal to corrode and eventually leak. Fine i ash and dirt should be removed regularly. Cinders in contact with ; the metal will set up a corrosive action. Wlien dirt of this kind ' is removed the gutter should be flushed out with clean water to i remove any trace of acid. Conditions such as those mentioned may : be avoided if the householder will remember to clean out the gutters

occasionalh?', especially in the autumn after the leaves have fallen.

It is also essential that unusually heavy snow and ice be removed

from gutters in order to facilitate roof drainage and to guard

against damage to the gutter or its fastenings by the excessive weight

of such masses. The life of gutters and down spouts may be ex- : tended considerably by occasionally painting them with a good > grade of metal paint.^^ ' Replacement and Care of Leaders, or Down-Spout Pipe. ' Leaders require less attention than gutters, but a certain amount i: of care is necessary. Slush working down into elbows will freeze j there. Often it forces the seams and folds to open slightly and a f small amount of water begins to drip. A leak is more common | ^ See Ch. XII, sec. 10, pp. 90* and 91.
CARE AND REPAIR OF THE HOUSE 29

where leaders are not corrugated to allow for expansion. When a leak starts it should be promptly checked, for otherwise the defect

will develop quickly until the whole elbow is broken. A metal

leader tube filled with water subjected to recurrent freezing and

thawing will fail by splitting. It is sometimes necessary to replace all or part of a down-spout

pipe because of corrosion. This should not be a difficult task, since

the pipe usually comes in sections and one piece hts into another

like stovepipe. When inserting a piece, be sure that the upper

piece fits inside the lower, so that the water can not escape. For

an extra good job the sections may be soldered together at the joints.

In many localities it is unlawful to connect a down spout to a

sanitary sewer. In case such connection is permitted, however,

a clean-out trap should be provided at the base of the down spout

to facilitate cleaning and to prevent the passage of foul odors from

the sewer. Repairs to Fastenings.

Metal gutters are often attached to the eaves b}^ means of straps

of tin or other metal. These straps may become broken or pulled

loose from their fastenings, alloAving the gutter to sag, preventing

proper draining. In this event broken pieces should be removed

and replaced by new ones, and loose straps should be refastened

securely. After completing these repairs, sight along the top of the

gutter to see that there is a uniform grade or slope down to the

outlet end. If the slope is not uniform, it may be necessary to shorten or lengthen a strap or two.

Box-Type Gutters.

In case the gutter is of the box or trough type, made of Avood

and lined with metal, the lining should be examined for signs of

cracking. If the trough is deep and narrow, expansion of ice in the

gutter may force out the exterior wall of the trough, causing the

metal to split. On account of this possibility, shallow and wide box

gutters are best, since they permit ice to expand over the edge Avith- out injuring the box. Box-type gutters should be lined Avith rustless

metal, or swabbed with bituminous material, or both.

VIII. DOORS AND WINDOWS

1. AA^HAT TO DO WHEN A DOOR BINDS OR STICKS

The binding or sticking of a door against the doorframe may be

caused by loose or ineffective hinges, settlement of tlie frame, SAvell- ing of the door or frame, or warping of the door.

Unless one is somewhat skilled in carpentry, lioAA^ever, it usually

pays to get a carpenter to make adjustments on doors in finished pai ts of the house.

Tools. Screw driver, wood chisel, hammer, plane, jackknife, chalk, and

small paint brush.

30292°—31 3
30 CARE AND REPAIR OF THE HOUSE

Materials.

A few pieces of cardboard or thin wood for “shims”; a small

amount of putty to finish off the woodwork; and stain, paint, or

varnish of the proper color to touch up bare surfaces after planing. | Loose Hinges.

To determine whether the fault lies with the hinges, first examine | the margin or crack between the door and frame when the door is closed. Loose hinges, whether top or bottom, usually allow the door i to sag, causing the upper outside corner to strike against the side of

| the jamb and the lower outside corner to drag on the threshold, mak- i ing an uneven margin around the door. As a further test, try to 1 shake the hinges by taking hold of the knob at each side, when door

j is open, and pulling and pushing the door away from and toward

the hinges.

If the hinges move, try tightening the screws. It may be necessary

to insert wooden plugs in the screw holes or to substitute longer , screws, to make them hold properly.

Figuee 5. —Hinge readjustments to correct binding or sticlcing doors If hinges are not loose, or if upon tightening the screws the margins or cracks are not made uniform, it might be well to try the

effect of cardboard “ shims ” under the hinge leaves. To do this,

loosen the screws of the top hinge in the leaf, which is fastened to the jamb, and insert a strip of cardboard under the inner edge, as . shown in sketch A (fig. 5). Tlien tighten up the screws and try ' closing the door. Tliis will usually correct the trouble, since it will tend to pull the upper part of the door closer to the jamb. >i If this corrects the trouble as far as the striking is concerned but ij leaves considerable space above the door and along the outside edge

(lock edge), loosen the screws in the leaf of the bottom hinge, which

is attached to the jamb, and insert cardboard under tlie outer edge, ' as shown in sketch B (fig. 5).

If, after tightening the screws and again trying the door, it is found that there is an even crack, or margin on all sides, and that

the hinge pins do not move when the door is closed, the repair is permanent.

^ If however, the hinge pins move when the door is being closed, it will probably be necessary to use thinner shims under ' the hinge leaves.
CAPvE AND EEPAIR OF THE HOUSE 31

ij

I On the other hand, if the door strikes all along the outer edge,

I remove the pins, take down the door, and remove the hinge leaves

from the jamb. Then with a sharp chisel cut away some wood from

, the outer edge of the mortises in the jamb, being careful to taper the

cut so that no wood is removed from the back edge. When the hinges

are replaced, this beveled deepening of the mortise will tend to pull

! the door away from the lock jamb and toward the hinge jamb. If,

upon closing the door, the hinge pins move it is a sign of binding

against the hinge jamb, as a result of excessive beveling of the mortises. This binding can be remedied by slight shimming under the

outer edge of the jamb leaves. Planing a Door.

It will seldom be necessary to plane the door if the trouble has been

caused by loose or improperly mortised hinges. However, if it is necessary to plane, as in the case where the side margins are uneven and the door strikes at top or bottom due to settlement of the frame

or similar causes, points of contact can generally be located by noting

where paint is worn. If this is not possible, open and close the door

several times and mark with chalk or pencil those places where the

door seems to stick. Then plane the edges of the door slightly where marked. Care

should be taken not to plane too much off the door, for, when dry

weather comes the wood may shrink, and, if it is an outside door

and has been planed too much, it may require weather stripping or

filling in. After planing a little it is well to try the door by opening

and closing it, to see whether additional planing is needed.

If planing is required on the top or front edge, it can usually be

done without removing the door. If the bottom or back edges need

planing the door will, of course, have to be taken down.

If it is of the type having removable hinge pins, it is a simple

matter to remove them and lift the door off. If not, the screws holding one leaf of the hinges will have to be removed to release the door.

After planing touch up the bare spots to match the finish on the

door.

Swelling.

Damp w^eather is often the cause of a door sticking. The absorption of moisture results in the swelling of the framework and

door and causes the paint or varnish to soften and become sticky.

If the door has an even margin along the top and bottom edges,

and if the hinges are firm, it will be necessary to plane either the

hinge or lock edge. Usually it is best to plane the hinge edge, as the hinges are more easily removed and remortised than the lock. Care should be taken not to plane off too much wood, however.

If a Door Binds at the Hinge Edge.

If a door is too tight on the hinge edge and binds against the

hinge jamb, the hinges will become loosened, unless the condition

is promptly remedied.

If such a door has plenty of clearance on the lock side and the

entire pin seems to move slightly wlien door is closed, loosen both

hinges at frame and insert cardboard under jamb leaves along the
32 CARE AND REPAIR OF THE HOUSE

outer edges, as shown in sketch B (fig. 5). If, upon tightening the ^ hinges and closing the door, the margins are more uniform and the i pins do not move, the repairs should be permanent. ;; If a Door Has Sprung at the Hinge Edge. j If a door has sprung inward or outward at the hinge edge as a ! result of warping, it will be almost impossible to close it without

exerting considerable pressure against the bulging part. The diffi- culty is generally oyercome by putting on an additional hinge midway between the other two to hold the door straight. Care should

be taken to give this hinge the same margin on the edge of the door ; and on the jamb as the other two, so that all three pins will be in a straight line. Before removing the door to attach the additional hinge, close the door and make two marks across the crack to mark the top and

‘ bottom of the hinge leaves, so that mortises may be cut in the door

and jamb exactly opposite each other.

If for any reason it is impossible at the time to provide another

hinge, temporary relief may be had by shifting the hinges outward ;i on the door jamb. (See sketch C, fig. 5.) No cutting will be necessary, but the depressions left at the sides of the hinges after moving

should be filled with putty or a strip of wood and stained to match

the jamb. Old screw holes should be plugged with wooden pegs ; before the screws are replaced.

j 2. WHAT TO DO WHEN A DOOR IS TOO NARROW

Settling of the house foundation may cause a doorframe to spread is apart, thus widening the doorway. As a result the bolt in the lock | may not reach the strike plate, making it impossible to lock the door jl securely. A gap may also appear between the door and the frame,

and, if the door is an outside one, cold air, wind, and rain will enter. Tools.

Screwdriver, hammer, nail set, wood chisel, plane, and a small

paintbrush. j Materials.

Narrow, thin strip of wood the same length as the door; a few

small finishing nails or small wood screws ; a little putty ; and enough

stain or varnish to cover the strip.

To correct the defects one of two courses may be followed. First, I; try inserting thick cardboard strips, the same width as the hinge j leaf, under the leaves attached to the jamb to shift the door toward j the lock side. This method may leave a large crack along the hinge |; edge of the door, which may not be objectionable, however, on an f inside door.

| The other method, though more complicated, may produce better

j results. Eemove the screws, lift off the strike plate, and nail or J. screw under it a strip of wood of sufficient thickness to allow the

bolt to catch firmly when the plate is replaced. It will be necessary r to cut a hole in this strip to admit the bolt. If the door is an outside

| one, apply a strip extending up and down the entire length of the , doorframe and cut a hole in this strip for the latch bolt. (See
caee and repair of the house 33

fig. 6.) Countersink the nails or screws, putty over the holes, and

paint the strip to match the finish of the doorframe.

As an alternate method, which calls for more care and skill, the

hinges may be removed from the door and the strip screwed to the

hinge edge of the door. This method necessitates removal of the

hingle leaves attached to the door, and cutting notches or recesses in the strip to receive the hinges when they are replaced.

3. HOW TO REMEDY A STRIKING LATCH BOLT

Settlement or shrinking in partitions adjoining and under a doorframe may cause it to move, carrying the strike plate with it, while

- the lock attached to the door remains fixed. This causes the bolt to strike instead of entering the hole in the plate, making it difficult

if not impossible, to lock the door.

Tools,

Screw driver, slim 3-cornered taper file, small wood chisel, hammer, and jacknife.

To remedy one condition—where the bolt strikes the plate just a

little—notice whether the bolt strikes too high or too low on the

plate by closing the door slowly, then remove the screws, take off the plate, and file the metal to make a larger opening to accommodate

the bolt.
34 CAKE AND REPAIR OF THE HOUSE

If the bolt strikes squarely on the plate so that it requires filing

of possibly one quarter of an inch of metal, remove the strike plate,

and raise it or lower it as necessary, chiseling out the mortise above

or below the existing opening to set the plate flush. (See fig. 7.)

Replace the plate in the new position so that the bolt will work back

and forth freely. If old screw holes interfere, drive small plugs of

wood into them before replacing the screws.A Door That Rattles.

If a door rattles there

may be too much play

between the latch and its strike plate. The condition can be corrected by

moving the plate back

toward the stop.

4. REMOVING TOP PANELS

IN DOOR AND INSERTING GLASS

It may be desirable to ^5 remove the upper panels

from a wooden door and

insert glass in their places

to afford more light. It

is not a difficult task and

the expense involved is relatively small.

Tools.

Claw hammer, sharp

flat chisel, putty knife,

and small paintbrush.

Materials.

Figure 7. —Section showing a sticking Jatch holt Panes of glass (preferably double thickness)

to fit the openings after removal of wooden panels, small finishing

nails or brads for renailing molding, a little linseed oil or thin paint,

and putty to bed the glass. It will be easier to do this work if the door is removed and laid

upon a bench or on the floor. In the case of an outside door, it is best to cut away the molding on the inside face of the door rather

than the outside to lessen the liability of decay and to make the door more weather tight on the side exposed to the weather.

If the molding that retains the panel is not a separate piece, cut around the edges of the molded portion of the rail and stiles to a

line, being careful to avoid splitting the four pieces, in order that

they may be replaced as moldings to retain the glass. Remove the

panel, trim the chiseled edges if necessary, and carefully measure

the opening for glass size, allowing a slight margin for putty and

expansion space.
CAKE AND REPAIR OF THE HOUSE 35

When ready to set the glass, paint the bed in which it is to rest with linseed oil or thin paint for a filler, and then lay a thin layer

of putty around this bed to make the glass weather tight.

Carefully set the glass in the opening and fasten it in place, like

the glass in a mirror or picture frame, by nailing the molding to the

stiles and rails. In driving the nails, be sure that they do not touch

the glass.

If the molding should become broken during the operations described, new pieces of equal size may be substituted.

Before rehanging the door, touch up any spots which may have

been marred during the progress of the work.

5. FITTING KEYS TO DOOR LOCKS

The filing of an ordinary door-lock key is not a difficult task. If

a key is available to be used as a guide, the fitting of a key is comparatively easy. However, if there is no original key, the job is slightly more complicated.

Tools,

Vise, thin flat file, and 3 candle.

Materials.

Key blanks of the same size as the original.

Where an Original Key is Available.

Clamp the blank and the finished key together in the vise and file notches in the bit of the blank to correspond with those in the key.

When the notches have been filed down so far that there is danger

of filing the original key, remove the latter from the vise and finish

filing the blank by itself, comparing it from time to time with the

original. Care should be taken to make the new key as near like

the old one as possible, but often a slight variation will make no

material difference in the fit of the key.

Where no Key is Available.

File the lower part of the bit of the blank key until it will start in the lock. Then withdraw the blank and hold it over a lighted

candle or a match until it is well smoked, after which .insert the

blank into the keyhole and try to turn. It will be found upon withdrawing the blank that those points of the bit which need filing have

been rubbed clean and appear bright. (The blank should be inserted

and withdrawn carefully, to avoid rubbing off the soot.) File out

the bright places, resmoke the key and repeat the operation until

-the key works properly.

Fitting Key to Complicated Lock.

The fitting of a key to a more complicated lock usually requires more precise workmanship. With such locks the best course usually

is to have the work done by a man experienced in making keys. But

where a key is available to serve as a guide, a person skilled with

tools frequently can make a satisfactory duplicate. In any case, however, the work must be very carefully done, for, if the original

key is filed even slightly, both keys may be rendered useless.

c
36 CAKE AND REPAIR OF THE HOUSE

6. REPLACING A BROKEN WINDOW PANE IN WOODEN SASH

A broken window pane can be replaced by the average person with- j out much dilRculty. In some cases it may be advisable to remove i the sash, which contains the broken pane, and lay it on some flat surface, such as a table or workbench. If the sash is removed the = work can be done easier and more neatly. This course is especially t recommended if the broken pane is in an upstairs window. If,

however, it is on the ground floor, it is possible to do the work while

standing upon a stepladder. j Tools.

An old chisel or jackknife for removing old putty and for driving

in glazier’s points, a putty knife, a rule to measure size of glass

needed, a small flat paintbrush, and (if one intends to cut his own * glass) a glass cutter, and a yardstick or steel square. Materials.

Glass of the same thickness as the broken pane, glazier’s points,

jiutty, raw linseed oil to soften the putty and to be used as a filler, j and paint of the same color as the window frame with which to paint the putty when it hardens. Good putty suitable for ordinary

Jiousehold use can be made by mixing the best grade of whiting and,

pure raw linseed oil. Explain your problem to the hardware or paint | store man where glass is purchased, so that he may advise what

quantity of each kind of material will be needed. ^ Removing the Old Glass and Putty.

The broken glass should be removed from the sash and the old

putty chipped off with an old chisel or jackknife. Then pull out

any remaining glazier’s points and, with an old jackknife or similar

tool, scrape the wood well where the new glass is to rest. Thi^

wood should then be given a coat of linseed oil or thin paint to act as a filler, so that the oil in the putty will not be absorbed, causing

it to dry out and crumble.

Measuring for New Glass.

As a rule, rather than attempt to cut the glass at home, it is best to take accurate measurements and give dimensions to the hardware

or paint dealer, who will cut a pane to the proper size. It is safest | to measure all four sides from wood to wood in the sash and deduct

one-sixteenth or one-eighth of an inch to allow for expansion and

irregularities. Measuring the four sides is advisable, for the rea- son that some sash are not true and do not form a perfect rec- tangle. Single-strength glass is suitable for small panes such as are found in sash containing several lights, and double strength is used

mostly for larger panes similar to those in single-light sash. Setting the Glass.

Spread a thin coat of putty, about one-sixteenth inch thick, on

| the rebate or groove in the sash where the glass rests, to form a bed.

Lay the pane in, concave side down, to avoid breaking the glass.

(The concave side is easily determined by sighting along the edge

of the pane.) Care should be taken to get this putty bed evenly C distributed, so that unfilled gaps will not appear between the sash I
CAKE AND REPAIR OF THE HOUSE 37

and the glass. By pressing gently on the glass to inclose the edges

of the pane in the putty, the pane can be made water-tight, and

the cushion of putty thus formed will reduce a liability of cracking

the glass when the glazieris points are driven in. The glazier's

points, which are small flat triangular metal pieces, are used in

addition to putty to hold the glass in place. They should be laid on the glass, about three or four to a side, and driven into the sash

along the long sides first Avith the side edge of a chisel or screiv

driver, sliding the tool over the surface of the glass. If the glass

is still loose after the points haA^e been driven in, remoA^e all ill- fitting points and replace them, pressing the glass more firmly

against the bed of putty during the j)i"ocess.

Applying the Putty.

Putty should be used promptly, but if there is delay the putty may

be softened by adding a feAv drops of raAv linseed oil and kneading

CLAZ,IEJ^5 POINT ROLL OF' PUTTY Figure S. —GJuzlng

the mass thoroughly. Place the putty on a sheet of broken glass or

a plate to keep it clean. It is best for the inexperienced Avorker to take a small piece at a time and roll it out betAveen the palms of the

hands to form a pencil-shaped roll. (See fig. 8.) Then lay the

rolls end to end on the glass Avhere it abuts the sash, along one side

at a time. Now Avith the putty knife press doAvn firmly, but gently, on the putty, draAving the knife along the sash from one end to the

other. To lessen the danger of breaking the glass b}^ strong pressure, the putty should be soft and pliable. The knife should be

held at such an angle, guided by the glass and the sash, as to form a good smooth bevel. All excess putty that spreads outside this bevel

should be cut off, and depressions should be filled up. Care should

be taken not to spread the putty too far out OA^er the surface of the

glass, Avhere it may be seen from the inside of the windoAv. Proceed in the same manner along the other sides. It will be found

that the workmanship Avill improA^e as the Avork progresses.

Q
38 CAPvE AND REPAIR OF THE HOUSE

Finishing Touches.

Remove all putty stains from the glass with a cloth moistened

with turpentine or gasoline. After a day or two, when the putty

has hardened, it should be painted to match the window sash.

7. GLAZING METAL SASH

Most metal sash are constructed so that the glass may be replaced

with little difficult}^ As there are many kinds of such sash, the

steps to be taken may vary to some extent. The manufacturer usually issues a set of instructions for his particular brand, and it is best to follow these instructions, if they are available. In case no

such information is at hand when the emergency arises, it might be

well to mention two methods conmionly used.

TooJs, k. screw driver, a putty knife, and a small flat paint brush.

Mate^dals.

Double-strength glass or plate glass (single-strength glass is not

recommended in metal sash), putty made of whiting and Avhite lead,

and enough paint of the same color as the sash for covering the top- coat of putty.

In some cases the glazing must be done on the outside of the

sash, while others provide for glazing on the inside. In one of

the methods to be described, the old putty and broken glass should

be removed as in wooden sash and the metal sash scraped clean

where the new glass is to rest. There may also be wire-spring clips to be removed before the old glass will come out. Then the new

glass must be embedded in putty, in order not to come directly in

contact with the metal. Spread the putty over the metal where the

glass is to rest and push the glass firmly into place so that the putty

fills every crevice. Now fasten the glass in tightly by means of the

wire-spring clips provided for that purpose. As a rule, these clips are held in place by holes bored through the sash. When the glass

is thus secured, apply the face putty in the same manner as prescribed for wooden sash. When the putty has thoroughly hardened,

it should be painted the same color as the sash frame.

In the other method, remove the broken glass by unscrewing and

taking off' the metal beading or glazing strips. Then scrape the old

bedding putty from the sash. Now, as in the previous method,

the new glass must be embedded in putty, as described. When the

glass has been placed, the metal beading or glazing strips should

be refastened tightly against it. These strips are usually held in

place by brass screws and form a neat frame around the glass.

8. RELIEVING A STICKING WINDOW SASH

The sticking of a window sash may be due to hardened jiaint,

which fastens the sash to the frame, or it may be the result of damp

weather. In the latter case, the wood in the sash and adjoining

frame swells, causing binding, or the paint or varnish becomes soft

and sticky, making it difficult to raise the sash. In most cases the trouble will disappear when the wood dries out, but during
'I

(

,

'i

! CARE AND REPAIR OF THE HOUSE 39

I prolonged w^t weather it may be necessary to obtain relief more

j quickly.

I Tools,

I Jackknife, screw driver, plane, medium sandpaper, claw hammer,

I flat wood chisel, nail set, pieces of cloth or felt for pads to protect

I woodwork from tool marks, and a small paint brush.

I Materials.

! Beeswax, linseed oil, and a small quantity of paint or varnish to

I touch up the woodwork.

I Sash Fastened by Hardened Paint.

I If the sash is held fast to the frame by hardened paint, it may be

I loosened by running the point of a knife blade around the edges,

I between the sash and the frame, being careful not to mar the surface.

I If it should be necessary to push up on the center rail of the lower

i sash in order to raise the window, be sure that the thrust is placed

i near the side rails and not in the middle in order to avoid the possi-

! bility of breaking the slender rail.

j If Sash Binds.

I Examine the window to see where sash binds against stop beads

or pulley stiles. (See fig. 9, p. 41.) Before doing any repair work,

it would be well to experiment to see if a thorough waxing with

beeswax of the parts in contact will not correct the excessive friction.

If the inside stop beads press too tightly against the sash, they can either be removed and planed down along the edge adjacent

to the sash, or moved farther from the sash. If the stops are fastened by nails, it probably will be better to move them over a

little; but if they are fastened by screws, it may be easier to plane

them off. In replacing the stop beads, it is well to remember that in order

to make the windov s more weather tight it is important to have but

a small margin between the inside stop and the bottom sash, when the

latter is down or closed. The upper pait of the stop, however, can

be fastened with a larger margin between it and the bottom sash

in the raised position, to allow the sash to slide more readily, since

there is no problem of weather tightness when the lower sash is raised.

When the window sash swells to the extent that the vertical edges

bind against the pulley stile, or running face of the window frame,

the sash should be removed and the vertical edges planed off a little. They should then be coated with linseed oil and waxed when the

'oil has dried. Directions for removing stop beads and window sash

are contained in section 9 of this chapter.

9. REPAIRING BROKEN OR STRETCHED WINDOW-WEIGHT CORDS

If a window-weight cord is broken the window will fall when it is raised and not supported. If the cord is too long or has stretched

the window will not be carried to the top and, in case the upper

sash is the one affected, it will be necessary to force it up the remaining distance and to lock it, to make it stay closed. Keplacing or

c
40 CAEE AXD EEPAIR OF THE HOUSE

adjusting the cord does not require any special skill, but calls fo* rather for patience and care to avoid marring the woodwork. |-

Tools. 1 „ Claw hammer, wood chisel, screw driver, nail set, piece of string,

small weight or nail, and pieces of cloth or felt for pads to protect

woodwork from tool marks.

Materials.

New sash cord. (A good grade that will not twist and require

frequent renewal is recommended. Size No. 7 cord, which is seven

thirty-seconds of an inch in diameter, is generally used in dwellinghouse windoAvs.)

The steps to be taken are practically the same for either the upper

or loAver sash, but the amount of preliminary work depends on, which sash requires attention. If it is the lower sash, that one only

will have to be removed ; but if it is the upper sash, both will probably have to be taken out. Usually the outside stop bead, which

holds the window in place, is made a part of the frame and can

not be removed. In case the frame has a removable outside stop,

it could be taken off on one side and the upper sash thus released,

but this course is not generally recommended.

The upper sash is not raised and lowered so frequently as the lower

and does not wear out its cords often, and therefore requires less attention.

The first step is to remoA^e the inside A^ertical stop bead on the same side of the window as the defective cord, just inside the lower

AvindoAv sash. (See fig. 9.) If fastened by means of screws its re- moval should be accomplished readily. If nailed on, a flat wood

chisel is a good tool to use in prying it off, as it is least likely to damage the Avoodwork. It might be Avell to wrap the blade with

cloth, or to use a piece of felt as a pad under the blade.

It is best to start at the bottom. By reaching through the windoAV

opening and prying from the outside there is less danger of marring

the woodwork Avhere it Avill show from the inside. If proper care

is exercised, the brads aauII come out with the stop and then, instead

of knocking them through and pulling them out in the usual Avay,

bend them slightly and pull them through from the back of the

stop with a claAv hammer, so that no unsightly holes wdll be left on the face of the finish. When nails are driven through in the usual

way, the Avood may chip out, since it is often fastened to the head of

the nail Avith putty and paint. After the stop has been removed,

the lower sash can be taken out. To remove the upper sash, loAver it to the sill, and pull out the

parting strip, on one side of the frame. This usually is not nailed

and should be easy to remove, but, in case it is fast, pry it out with

a flat chisel, starting at the middle of the strip.

Beneath the inside stop bead or in some cases adjacent to it, will

be found a small oblong coAer concealing a pocket in the sash. In

the better forms of construction this coA^er is fastened by screAvs, while in other cases it is nailed on. By removing the cover, the cords

and weights Avill be reA^ealed, suspended in a long, narrow slot. There are four Aveights to a double-hung window, two on each side
1

I CAEE AND EEPAIR OF THE HOUSE 41

I of the window frame. The two nearest the inside of the house bah

I ance the lower sash, and the two outside ones balance the upper sash.

: I It will be observed that one end of the cord is knotted or anchored

' into a hole bored in the side of the window sash near the top. It

1 1 then passes over the pulley near the top of the window frame, and

i is attached to the weight, usually by several knots. To avoid diffi-

! culty in working the new cord over the pulley and down through

the slot to the bottom, a small lead fishline sinker or similar weight

f may be attached to a string and passed over the pulley and let down

I inside the slot until it can be reached through the pocket. Then

; by attaching the string to the cord the latter can be pulled down

within reach of the hand. Now, fasten the cord to the weight before cutting it to length, and pull the cord over the pulley until the

top of the weight is up against the pulley. Then cut the cord about

3 inches below the knot-retaining hole in the sash, when the sash is

I in the extreme low position. The extra length is provided for forming the retaining knot. Tie the knot, pull the sash out far enough

r c
42 CARE AND REPAIR OF THE HOUSE

to insert the knot in the mortise, and replace the window. Care

should be taken in fixing the proper length of cord. If too long, ^ the weight will rest on the bottom of the box when the sash is raised

to the top, thus reducing its effectiveness; and if too short, it will

strike against the pulley at the top when the sash is pulled down.

In time, the friction may result in a broken cord or damaged pulley.

For those not familiar with this work it is better to allow a few

inches additional length over that prescribed above. If, upon re- placing the window, the sash does not work properly, cut sufficient length from the cord so that the sash will be held in place against

the top of the frame by the weight.

| Before replacing the pocket cover and stop bead, raise and lower * the window a few times to see whether it is in perfect working order. * These suggestions may also be followed in shortening cords which j have become stretched. 1

10. CARE AND REPAIR OF SCREENS

Screen doors and window screens require attention at least twice

a year. They should be renovated and put on in the spring, and re- moved and prepared for storage in the fall. If a good grade of

screen wire has been used and the screens and doors have been well

cared for, the work involved will not be great.

Replacing Broken Screening.

Tools,

Pair of metal shears or old scissors, light claw hammer, nail set, a screw driver for prying off moulding, and a tack puller or pair of

pliers for pulling out olcl brads and tacks.

Materials,

Screen wire, small tacks, and small brads or nails for refastening

| the molding. If painting is necessary, a small brush and the re- quired amount of screen paint in the color desired must be added to I the list. i If the screening is worn out or badly broken, purchase a new piece I at least an inch wider and longer than the opening in the frame and

| cut it to fit with a pair of metal shears or old scissors. The piece

cut should, of course, include enough around the edges to permit i tacking to the frame. Pry up and remove the molding which holds I the old screening and pull out all tacks which may have remained,

j Then tack the new screening along one end completely, holding it

j tight as the tacking proceeds. Now tack the opposite end, pulling

j the wire from end to end, as well as along the side which is being

tacked. Finally tack along the other two sides, which should require

j practicall}^ no pulling. Care should be taken not to pull the mesh j out of shape and to keep the separate strands parallel to the sides | of the frame. The molding may now be replaced and it will be | found that, if fastened down firmly, it will take up any remaining

j slack in the wire and give it a finished appearance.

As an aid in placing screen wire in a number of frames of uni-

| form width at one time, the following method is suggested: Lay | the frames end to end and in line on a plane surface, such as a I floor or sidewalk. Tack one end of the screen wire in place on the |
CARE AND REPAIR OF THE HOUSE 43

^

I extreme end of the first screen. Unroll the screening over all the

) frames, tacking it at the extreme end of the last frame. Drive

^ small wedges between the frames to tighten the wire lengthwise.

^ When it is tight enough, tack the wire across all of the ends before

• cutting it. Then tack one side all along the group, draw the wire

' toward the opposite side and tack all along that side. Finally, re- place the face moldings and cut the wire around the outside of the

moldings with a sharp knife or similar tool. This method will save time and result in an excellent job.

jUifts and Reinforcing Angles.

\TooIs.

Gimlet and screw driver.

'‘Materials,

I Two handles or lifts for each window, four small angle jrons, flat

!| metal pieces or metal corrugated fastener for each window, and a

I sufficient quantity of small screws.

I Many window screens have no pulls or handles with which to raise

the screen, and the screens are usually opened by pushing upward on

jthe upper sash rail. This pressure tends to pull the frame apart.

I Handles, or pulls, can be obtained at slight expense and screwed to

•the lower sash rails. Handles make the opening of the screens

easier and relieve the pressure on the sash rails. The sash may be

reinforced and made more rigid by means of small angle irons

j screwed into each inside corner of the frame, or by attaching flat

I metal pieces. Metal corrugated fasteners may be driven into the face

j of the frame across the corners for this purpose if there are no nails

I to interfere, and if the frames have butt or mitered joints.

j Protection for Screen Doors.

i Tools.

I Claw hammer.

Materials,

I A sufficient quantity of heavy wire mesh to cover lower portion of

, screen door frame and small staples to fasten mesh to frame.

Where screen doors are liable to be damaged by small children

I running in and out, or by a dog jumping against them, it is advisable

to have a protection for the lower half of the door. Although doors

j equipped with guards can be purchased, good results may be obtained

by applying over the regular screening in the lower portion of

the frame a protective screen of heavy wire, woven with relatively

1 large openings—from one-half inch to 2 inches across. Reducing the Noise of Closing Screen Doors.

I Tools,

A light hammer and a screw driver.

Materials,

Screen-door spring or patent check.

The slamming of screen doors is annoying, and doors that do not

close tightly are a source of trouble. These difficulties can be over- come by applying one of the various devices designed to close screen

Q
44 CAEE AND EEPAIR OF THE HOUSE

doors noiselessly and tightly. Such devices are inexpensive and easy t to apply. ^ A simple but effective way to deaden the sound of screen-door slam-Hli

ming is to tack three small square pieces of felt cloth or rubber to hjj the main door frame at points of contact. One piece should bej^,

placed near the top, another near the bottom, and the third mid1

way between. |

Hinges and Closing Devices. j|; There are two types of hinges generally used on screen doors : f

Spring hinges and loose-pin butt hinges. Since, with the ordinary ,

i spring hinge, it is necessary to remove the screws and plug up the

holes when the door is taken down, some prefer butt hinges with

removable pins. If butt hinges are used or if spring hinges have

lost their pulling power, the door may be made to close tightly and'

remain so by fastening a slender coil spring^® between the screen doorframe and the main door jamb. The spring should be placed so|

that there will be sufficient pull to close the door tightly when it is |

released. To accomplish this purpose, one end should be attached

to the door jamb with a small screw hook 3 to 5 inches away from

the screen door, as space permits, and the other end attached to | tlie middle cross rail of the screen door by means of a similar hook i at the point where the spring will be under enough tension to keep ; the door closed. If the hook on the door jamb is too near the screen

door, the spring exerts too little pull or closing force Avhen the door |i is onh^ slightly open. ' In case the door jamb is too narrow to permit the use of such a 'i spring as the one described above, a short heavy coil spring made !| for the purpose, may be placed on the outside face of the screen i| door. It should be placed at some point between the hinges and li run diagonally across the crack between the screen door and the main !l door jamb, its ends being fastened with wood screws to the frame [| of the screen door and to the front of the main door jamb. j Correcting Sagging in a Screen Door.

If the joints in the frame of a screen door become loosened and

allow the lower half of the door to sag and the bottom edge to drag- on the threshold, a metal rod equipped with a turnbuckle may be

used to raise the bottom rail clear of the floor. One end of the rod

should be fastened to the face of the frame at the center of the inter- p section between the bottom rail and the outer vertical rail, and the

j other end should be fastened as high up on the face of the vertical

| rail carrying the hinges as it will reach. When the two ends of the

4

rod have been screwed on firmly, the turnbuckle may be turned to

J shorten the rod, and thus lift the bottom rail. Painting the Screens.

Tools. Small flat brush and whisk broom.

Materials,

Screen paint or enamel in color desired and a small amount of

boiled linseed oil or turpentine for thinning.

Various types of screen-door springs and other accessories are sold by dealers in
CAEE AXD EEPAIR OF THE HOUSE 45

! A screen door or windoAv screen lasts longer and looks better if kept well painted at all times. If ordinary paint is used, it should

I be thinned out considerably to avoid clogging up the mesh. There

,| are many special screen paints on the market which may be used,

! if desired. A coat of thin white paint on the screening makes the

j interior of the house less visible from the outside.

I A cheap grade of screening will probably require painting every

j year, while galvanized wire may show signs of rust only after long

usage, and then may require only a liglit coat of paint. Copper or

,i bronze screening lasts for many years and needs little attention.

I Storing for the Winter,

j Tools.

j; Screw driver for removing doors and claAV hammer and saw for

i building hanging frame.

' Materials.

Ji Numbered thumb tacks, a few short lengths of boards, and suffiI cient nails for the hanging frame.

j.:i Screens will last longer if they are taken down in the fall and

L stored in a dry place for the winter. A good plan, if convenient, is

;j to suspend them from the ceiling in a corner of the basement, on

I. a framework made of wood, as illustrated in Figure 10. The hang-

, ers should be about 2 feet apart and hung at the same elevation so

j that the screens will lie perfectly flat. This flatness will be more

j certain if two or three boards are laid down first to form a shelf.

( - The doors may be placed on the hangers first and then the window

screens laid on top with perhaps some laths between to keep them

separated. A covering of paper or canvas will protect them from

dust. To prevent rusting during the winter months, some authorities recommend giving the wire a thin coat of screen enamel and

fij, when it is drjq wrapping the screens well with paper. This care preserves the mesh, and when the screens are enameled in the fall

'i they are ready to be put up in the spring without further treatment. By use of the method of storage described above, the screens are

I out of harm’s way, removed from floor dampness, have the advan-

; tage of free air circulation, and in lying flat are not likely to become

j 30292°—31 4 Q
46 CAEE AND REPAIR OF THE HOUSE

Warped. The screen sash and window frames should be numbered

so that they can be readily identified in the spring. They can be

inconspicuously marked in Roman numerals with a small chisel or screw driver. One easy method is to use thumb tacks with numbers

clearly visible on the top. One tack with the number 3, for example,

may be placed in the screen sash and another with the same number

may be placed in the window sill, or in some convenient window

location.

Assembling “ Knock-Down ” Screens.

Tools.

Saw, claw hammer, nail set, and small flat paintbrush.

Materials.

Screen frames complete, screen wire, small tacks, paint, and a small quantity of putty and glue; also, if desired, four angle irons

with screws for each frame.

It is possible to purchase at reasonable prices so-called knockdown screen frames, which are easy to assemble. These sets come

complete in every detail, excepting the screening itself, which leaves

the purchaser free to select whatever grade of screen wire he desires.

They include 4 pieces, or 1 each, for the 2 sides and the top and

bottom. These pieces are properly notched at one end to insure a

firm joint. The other end is left s(iuare, to be sawed to the proper

length to fit the window. Grooves are already cut in the side pieces

to permit sliding, and provision is made for tacking on the screening,

and attaching the molding. In addition to the four pieces mentioned, there are four pieces of molding to be tacked over the edges

of the screening, two sliding rails to be attached to the sides of the

window frame, and a metal lift, or handle, for raising the screen. A sufficient (piantity of nails and tacks is provided to com})lete the

job. To make the frame hold its rigidity and remain square, small

angle irons should be screwed into each corner. Paint the joints

with waterproof glue before nailing them, countersink the nails,

and fill nail holes with i)utty to make a neat job. A priming coat and one or two finishing coats, in any color desired, will complete

the work.

Screens Placed Inside of Windows.

In summer cottages, and sometimes in permanent dwelling houses,

it may be desirable to have the screens placed inside of the windows.

Inside screens are necessary if there are casement windows which

open outward.

In the case of double-hung windows, half-length screens may be

desired. These can be made to slide up and down on runners placed

just inside the lower window sash. The screens should be placed as

close to the window sash as })ossible, so that space will not be left btAveen the sash rail and the screen frame, where insects may enter. Full-length screens, suitable for either out-swinging casement or double-hung windows, may be made in two sections, each section being half the width of the window opening. The sections may be

made to slide past eacli other horizontally, by placing them on sep- arate runners, laid side by side on the windoAv sill and along the top

of the window frame. In this case also, care should be taken to
CARE AND REPAIR OF THE HOUSE 47

avoid leaving cracks between the frames. Koll screens are also desirable for full-length inside protection.

Interior screen frames may be painted or enameled on the inside

to match the woodwork, and on the outside may be finished in a

color to harmonize with the outside window trim.

Inside screens, being protected from the weather when windows

are closed, should last longer than outside ones. They are usually

easier to slide, since they are not subject to warping as a result

of exposure.

IX. WEATHERPROOFING AND INSULATING

1. APPLYING WEATHER STRIPPING

All houses should be be well ventilated, but this does not mean that

unregulated drafts of cold air should sweep through the house at

all times. In cold weather the warm air escapes around loose

windows and doors and is at once replaced by the cold out-of-doors

air. The result is that the heating plant must be pushed to capacity

to maintain an even temperature, and on windy days, where such

conditions prevail, it will be found difficult to keep the house warm.

It is to improve these conditions that the weather stripping of

doors and windows is recommended. It is generally agreed that

weather stripping provides greater comfort and soon pays for

itself in reduced fuel bills. In some cases it may also be necessary

to insulate the outside walls of the house to obtain satisfactory

results. Kinds of Weather Stripping.

There are many kinds and grades of weather stripping on the

market at various prices.

Most metal weather strips must be installed by an expert, as they

usually involve removal of the sash and cutting of grooves, but some of the simpler forms can be applied by the average householder.

Space does not permit a full discussion of the methods of applying the various types of metal strips. However, it is not essential,

since complete instructions are furnished by the manufacturers of

those types which do not require the services of an expert.

There are many other kinds of strips, however, which are easy

to apply, and inasmuch as these types are similar and are attached

in about the same manner, their installation will be discussed as a group. This group might be divided into two types: The rigid

type, which includes narrow wooden strips with rubber or felt edges made in standard-length pieces; and the flexible type, which

includes the patent cloth variety with a padded contact edge; and,

the cheapest and simplest of all, the ordinary felt strip. The

flexible-type strips are put up in rolls of various lengths.

Taking Measurements.

? Measure the four sides of the window frame where the face of the

sash adjoins the casing, and also the distance across the meeting

rail. Measure around the four sides of the door on the outside

where they abut the door stops and threshold.
48 CARE AND REPAIR OF THE HOUSE

Tools, i

i A rule or steel tape, marking pencil, and light hammer. If the

j strips are of wood, a small saw and miter box are also needed, but I if the strips are of cloth a pair of scissors may be used for cutting i them. ' Materials.

I A number of linear feet of stripping; some three-quarter-inch

wire brads, if wooden strips are used; 4-ounce size tinned trunk | tacks (rustless) for padded cloth stripping; smaller trunk tacks or common carpet tacks for felt stripping. It is advisable to use tacks i that will be least noticeable and that will not rust. j Weather-Stripping a Window.

The window should be locked when weather-stripping is attached

to insure best results. Care should be taken to see that the contact edge presses snugly at all points against the sash or casing, as the

case may be, before the tacks or brads are driven. I Upper sash. —The weather-stripping for the upper sash should ; be tacked to the frame adjoining the sash on the outside of the win- I dow. If the flexible type is used, one piece can be cut to extend

around the two sides and top. If, however, the rigid kind is used,

three separate pieces will have to be cut, with the two corners mitered, to make a neat fit.

| Lower sash. —The weather-stripping for the lower sash is attached on the inside, and four separate pieces are required, regardless of ; the type used. The two side pieces are tacked to the face of the | inside stop bead adjoining the sash, with the contact edge pressed ! against the face of the sash, and should extend from the top face of i the stool, or inside sill, to the top of the meeting rail. The piece across the width of the meeting rail is tacked to the top of the lower ' sash, so that the contact edge will cover the crack where the upper i and lower sash rails meet. This piece will probably have to be

cut in two parts to provide space for the window lock. The piece |( across the bottom is tacked to the face of the sash with the contact edge down to butt against the top of the stool or inside window sill. Weather-Stripping a Door.

The door should be closed and locked while weather-stripping is I being applied. If flexible-type stripping is used, two pieces will

do; one, the width of the bottom of the door; and the other, long

enough to extend around the two sides and top. If rigid strips are

used, four pieces will be required, with the two top corners mitered,

to make a neat joint. The bottom piece should be tacked to the

inside face of the door wdth the contact edge down and pressed ^ snugly against the top of the threshold. If the threshold is so badly worn that it is impossible to obtain a tight contact at all points,

it should be replaced with a new one. The side and top pieces are tacked to the door stops on the outside, with the contact edges

pressed evenly, but not too tightly, against the face of the door.

Bedroom Doors.

It is sometimes advisable to weather-strip bedroom doors, at least at the bottom, to revent drafts and the escape of heat from the^ . rest of the house when bedroom windows are open.

|

i

;

..

. 1 ,^
CAEE AND EEPAIE OF THE HOUSE 49

Doors Leading to Basements.

Weather-stripping applied to the door leading from the living rooms to the basement helps to keep out dust, gases, and laundry

odors.

Casement Windows.

Casement windows are weather stripped in the same manner as doors, with the stripping tacked to the window stop* and the contact edge pressed against the face of the sash when the window is closed. A strip of felt tacked to the inside face of the meeting strip will

seal the vertical crack where the two windows meet.

2. HOW TO WEATHERPROOF AROUND OUTSIDE OF WINDOW

FRAMES

For various reasons damp spots may appear on the interior surfaces of walls, but contrary to the impression of some householders,

only in relatively few cases are they caused by leakages through the

walls proper.

Most of the trouble is usually found around window frames which

are poorly built or improperly weatherproofed. Such frames admit

air and moisture and the adjoining interior walls soon become

unsightly with dirt and water stains. Water, finding its way into the wall around the window frame,

may work along inside the wall and make a spot on the plaster

surface several feet distant. For this reason, it is sometimes difficult to locate the source of trouble.

Correct Methods in Frame Houses.

In extra good frame construction the blind casing (behind the

outside casing) extends back to the window studs, and the building

paper (between the sheathing and siding) extends over the crack

between the blind casing and the sheathing. In addition, the outside

casing is nailed directly to the blind casing and the siding or shingles

butted up against it. If there is no blind casing, waterproof paper is used under the

joint between the outside casing and the siding to prevent the entry

of wind and rain.

The cap over the window should be constructed to turn water away

from the joint between the frame and the siding. In some types of

frames, the siding or shingles extend over the cap, and a drip groove

is provided along the underside of the cap or, in case the cap does not

have these features the joint may be covered with metal flashing.

" (See fig. 11.)

The connection between the upper sill and subsill should also be

tight. In the newer types of frames, the bottom of the lower sill is plowed to allow the siding or shingles to extend into the sill a short distance, and an offset, or rabbet, is cut near the back edge to make a tight joint with the top sill. Inspection and Repairs in Frame Construction.

If there are leakages around a window frame a careful examination should be made and repairs made where they are needed.

Around the lower part of the window, look particularly for holes or large cracks at the top of the window sill. There may be a crack

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50 CAEE AND KEPAIR OF THE HOUSE

under the inside stool or window ledge, if it is not nailed down

securely ; and if the stool has been cut too short, there may be cracks

at either or both ends. Also, where parting strips and pulley stiles meet the top sill there may be holes left as a result of careless fitting.

Such cracks and openings may be closed satisfactorily by driving the

stool down firmly and filling the spaces with white-lead putty or calking compound, as previously described.

Sometimes driving rain or water from melting ice on the sill outside the window may be forced in under the window and stool and

run down the wall. This seepage may usually be prevented by re- moving the lower sash and plowing a furrow or groove along the

bottom of the lower rail from one side to the other with a plow

plane having a one-half or three-quarter inch blade. A cavity is thus formed that will check blowing rain before it can get inside the

window.

Good weather stripping carefully applied, as explained in section

1 of this chapter, will do much to prevent air leakage and keep

moisture from entering around windows and doors.

Figure 11.—Window head details, showing methods of flashing

Where the top sill joins the subsill, there may be a crack that will

admit air and moisture unless it is calked with white-lead putty or calking compound, or covered with metal flashing.

Examine the drip mold and flashing at the top of the frame to

see whether they are in good condition. Put on new flashing, if necessary, preferably copper, with the upper edge bent up under the

siding or shingles and the lower edge extending over the outer edge

of the window cap about one-half inch and bent down to form an

apron.

Before putting on the flashing it may be well to seal the cracks

around the frame with white-lead putty or calking compound (a

puttylike substance made for calking purposes).

Sometimes the outside casing or adjoining molding may become

loose and require renailing.

In some instances the outside casing may be nailed over the siding

or shingles instead of being fastened directly to the blind casing.

This method leaves triangular openings between the back of the

casing and each shingle or siding board, and, if the joints under the

outside covering are not properly protected, air will enter.
CARE AND REPAIR OF THE HOUSE 51

In such cases the outside casing may be removed and the cracks

underneath filled with white-lead putty or calking compound, or the triangular openings may be closed without removing the casing

by employing one of two methods. They may either be calked with

oakum (hemp fiber from tarred hemp rope) to within one-half inch

of the surface and then filled with calking compound, or covered

by means of a strip of wood (about 2-inches wide and as thick as the casing) notched out to fit the irregularities in the surface and

nailed to the siding or shingles adjoining the outside casing.

In Stucco Construction.

Window frames in stucco houses are usually of the same type as those used in frame houses, and the same instructions for weatherproofing may be followed in either case. To apply flashing over

the cap mold at the top of the frame, however, it may be necessary

to cut away a few inches of stucco along the top of the frame. When

the flashing has been applied, it should be sealed along the top edge

against the backing with elastic cement of good quality. The stucco should then be patched with proper precautions, as described in

Chapter V, section 1. In Brick Construction.

In good brick construction the window frames are usually set in a thin bed of mortar and the spaces between the brickwork and frame

filled solid with mortar to seal the joints.

There is seldom any trouble at the tops of the windows, since the

frames are generally set back under the brickwork in such a way

that water can not enter under ordinary conditions.

If there are leaks around a window in a brick house, they are usually found along the sides, or around the top or bottom of the

sill.In making repairs, remove the molding adjoining the brickwork,

calk all cracks, which appear to need attention with oakum, and

finish off the job with calking compound or good Portland cement

mortar. Before replacing the molding, it is considered good practice to paint the back with white-lead as a further precaution against

leaks and decay.

If it is not desirable to remove the molding, cracks between the

brickwork and the molding can be sealed with a plastic calking

compound. This material can be applied with a putty knife, a calking knife, or a calking gun, which may possibly be borrowed

from a dealer in such material. If this method is used, care should

be taken to obtain a high-grade compound, which will not shrink,

" crack, run, or dry out under the action of the weather.

Defects may exist around window sills in brick houses, similar to those in frame houses, and repairs should be made in the manner

previously described.

Dormer Windows.

If the sill of a dormer window rests on the roof, and flashing has

not been provided, metal flashing should be worked into the underside of the sill and run down over the roofing material so that water

will not get into the crevices between the sill and the roofing. As

an added precaution, it might be advisable to calk the crack with

roofing cement before applying the flashing.

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52 CARE AIsTD repair OF THE HOUSE

3. PREVENTING FROSTING OF WINDOW PANES

In the wintertime, in certain localities, frost may form on the inner

surface of window panes, often to such an extent that it is impossible

to see through the glass. If obstruction of vision were the only

result of such a condition, it might not be seriously considered, but

often, when the frost melts, water runs down over the woodwork

and plaster, ruining the finish on the woodwork and the wall

decorations.

Cause of Frosting.

Frost is formed by the condensation and freezing of moisture

from the air upon the cold surfaces of the window panes. It would

seem therefore that the logical solution would be to protect the

window panes as much as possible against extreme cold and to re- duce the amount of evaporation in the rooms.

Protection Around Windows.

The windows may be protected by installing storm sash tight

enough to prevent cold air striking the inner windows. It might

also be well to tighten the stops around the windows, and to install weather stripping.

Humidity and Health.

It is claimed by physicians and others familiar with the subject,

that a certain amount of humidity is necessary to preserve good

health in the household. It is held that colds, which are prevalent

during the heating season, often result from overheated rooms, particularly where the percentage of moisture in the air is not sufficient. According to the ‘‘ comfort chart,” prepared by the American Society of Heating and Ventilating Engineers, a humidity of 45 per

cent (saturation of the air) at 70° F. room temperature is considered

good from a comfort standpoint.

In addition to health requirements, a certain amount of moisture

is necessary in a house to prevent the drying out and opening of

joints in furniture and woodwork. Too much moisture, however,

may result in condensation, and because of these possibilities, it is quite essential that a proper average be maintained.

Measuring Humidity.^®

The room temperature is easily determined by means of a thermometer, but measurement of humidity is a process not familiar

to the average householder. There are two instruments, the psychrometer and the hygrometer, which are used for measuring humidity and which are sold at reasonable prices by dealers in scientific instruments. Instructions for their use are usually furnished by the

manufacturer.

Sources of Moisture.

Moisture in the air is traceable to numerous sources. House plants

throw off moisture; steam from cooking and evaporation from the

laundry and bathroom also contribute to the supply.

In localities where a considerable amount of gas is burned, a; 'large

portion of the moisture in the air often comes from that source.

See Bureau of Standards Circular No. 55, Measurements for the Household, listed on

p. 108 of this publication.
CARE AND REPAIR OF THE HOUSE 53

Gas is composed chiefly of compounds of carbon and hydrogen and,

in burning, the hydrogen unites with the oxygen in the air to form

water vapor.

Regulating the Amount of Moisture.

If the humidity is too great, it can be reduced by eliminating, as much as possible, the sources of the moisture, and by frequent changing of air in the rooms by ventilation.

Much of the difficulty arising from the burning of gas may be overcome by providing an adequate vent or hood over the gas stove

to carry the fumes to the outside.

During the heating season, the amount of moisture in the air of

a house is often less than required, rather than more. In such cases, moisture may be supplied by means of various appliances used in connection with the heating system. There are also a number of

liumidifying devices on the market.

4, INSTALLING STORM DOORS AND WINDOWS

Providing storm doors and windows is a more expensive method

of keeping out the cold and retaining warmth in a house than some

of those already mentioned, but storm doors and windows often pay

for themselves within a reasonable period in reduced fuel bills. Although this type of protection is not so popular as it was in years

gone by, it is still used to a considerable extent in cold climates

where the benefits to be derived are more pronounced.

Storm Windows.

Storm windows, when properly installed, provide a dead-air space, reducing heat conduction to the outside, and preventing infiltration

of cold air. They are particularly helpful in preventing frosting

of windows, inasmuch as they protect the surface of inner panes from

chilling winds which cause condensation and subsequent freezing.

If storm windows can not be afforded for all window openings they

may be provided for those on the side of the house facing prevailing

winter winds.

To insure good protection, storm sash should fit tightly. They

may be fastened with ordinary wood screws, hooks and eyes, or other

devices. They may also be provided with a sliding opening in the

bottom rail to admit air when it is desired. Perhaps a better way

is to hang them from the top on hinges or other hangers, so that

they may be swung outward, when necessary, for ventilation or other

purposes. If storm windows are hung, rather than fastened per-

" manently in place, special care must be taken to obtain a good fit all around the sash. They may be held open when necessary, by means

of long hooks inserted in screw eyes or by special devices made for

the purpose. If the storm sash is placed flush with the facing board

of the window casing, loose-pin butt hinges may be used to support

them. This will allow removal of the sash by simply pulling the pin

of the hinge. In case ordinary hinges can not be used, there are

special storm-window hinges designed to fit any type of frame. A

local hardware dealer might be consulted regarding the type of

fastenings best fitted for use on a particular house.
54 CAEE AND EEPAIR OF THE HOUSE

Storm Doors.

Storm doors involve some expense, but in many cases it is profitable to install one on the windward side of the house. If made in

the form of a vestibule, such a space will prevent the inrush of cold

air when the house door is opened, and provide a place to remove

overshoes and shake oft snow. To save time in removing and replacing storm doors and screen

doors, and to avoid the necessity of removing screws and plugging

up screw holes, interchangeable loose-pin butt hinges may be used.

Four hinges are required. Two hinge leaves are attached to the door

jamb to serve both the storm and the screen door, and the two

corresponding ones may be discarded. The remaining halves of the

hinges should be attached to the doors, so as to fit into the two parts

attached to the jamb.

Storm doors and windows should last a long time if they are kept

well painted and are stored in a dry place during the summer.

5. TREATMENT OF WALLS TO PREVENT “SWEATING”

Dampness may appear on the inside surfaces of exterior walls as a result of other conditions than leakage through mortar joints or around window frames. In some cases, such dampness is so pronounced that frost can be swept off the walls during prolonged cold

spells. It causes wall paper to become loosened and stained and has

similar damaging effects on other wall decorations. It also creates

a damp, musty atmosphere in the rooms affected, which is unhealthful and generally unpleasant.

Cause of Damp Spots.

This dampness may not come from the outside as is often suspected,

but may be the result of condensation of moisture from the air in

tlie room upon the cold surfaces of the plaster. It develops by the same process as that which causes beads of moisture to form on the

outside surface of a pitcher of ice water on a warm day.

Eliminating the Dampness.

It would seem that the natural solution to the problem would be

first to reduce the amount of moisture in the air by eliminating as far as possible the sources of such moisture, or when an excessive

amount of moisture is present, to ventilate frequently the rooms. It must be remembered, however, that a certain amount of moisture is necessary in a house from a health standpoint. Therefore, care should be taken not to make the air too dry in an effort to avoid

excessive moisture.^® If reduction of moisture does not overcome the

difficulty, an attempt should be made to make the interior wall sur- faces warmer by insulating them against the chilling effects of outside temperatures. Insulating is desirable, but, in completed houses,

is difficult and usually expensive to install. There are several methods of insulating walls while the house is being constructed, but it is rather difficult to provide a remedy after the house is built.

See discussion on humidity and health in sec. 3 of this chapter.
care and repair of the house 55

I I Furring and Waterproofing Masonry During Construction.

Whether or not insulating material is used, it is advisable to use

I furring strips (strips of wood to form an air space) on exterior

I walls, especially in regions subject to low temperature, high winds,

I heavy rains, or extreme humidity of considerable duration. Where

I plaster is applied to a masonry wall without furring or other form

I of insulation, condensation may occur, and in addition, unless the

I walls are waterproofed, any moisture which penetrates, the joints will

probably appear as wet spots on the surface of the plaster,

i Furring is always advantageous, but it adds to the cost to such an extent that in some cases, recourse is had to waterproofing, applied to the inside surface of the masonry wall before plastering is put on. This waterproofing may be of bituminous material which

j is swabbed on with a roofer’s mop, or may consist of a scratch coat of Portland cement mortar containing waterproofing compound. A

I recent development in bituminous waterproofing demands that the

material be applied through a gun, which method is considered more

efficient than swabbing. It is claimed that by spraying a more

water-tight job is possible, since the pores and inequalities in the

surface are more thoroughly filled. If bituminous or other plaster

i material is used, plastering should be applied while the bitumen is

I still sticky, to insure proper adhesion. Waterproofing of any kind

' when used by itself will tend to stop leakage only through the joints

j and will provide no insulation against condensation.

' Insulating Old Walls.

I The simplest way to treat old walls to make them warmer and pre- vent “ sweating ” is to nail furring strips over the old plaster upon

' which to apply new lath and plaster, insulating board, or insulating

material and wall board.

III Before the new surface is applied, it will probably be necessary

j to remove the trim and, when the wall is finished, to insert pieces of

iji wood behind the trim before it is replaced, to bring it forward to form a suitable offset. Another method is to leave the old trim in

j place and to apply new trim on top of this after plastering.

' Keplastering, especially in a furnished house, is rather objection-

*. able, because of dampness resulting from the large quantity of water

I I required and because of the splashing and spattering in applying the

'materials. There are several good walk boards and insulating boards

^ on the market, however, which can be applied upon the stripping in

place of lath and plaster, and with less difficulty. A specially pre- pared joint-treating system is used with these boards, and when

completed the wall has the appearance of a plastered surface and

' may be decorated if desired. Directions covering the application and

decoration of these boards are usually furnished by the manufacturers.

6. INSULATING THE ATTIC

ij Heat passes through a wall or roof if there is a difference in

J temperature between the two sides. The direction of flow is from

the warmer to the cooler side, and heat seeks the lowest temperature

level, just as water seeks the lowest plane.

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56 CARE AND EEPAIR OF THE HOUSE

It is therefore apparent that, in order to heat a house economically ' it is necessary to prevent, as far as possible, this flow of heat. In S the wintertime for economy the heat must be kept within the house : and in the summertime for comfort the out-of-doors heat must be j kept out. :( Concerning Insulating Materials. | While no material will entirely stop the passage of heat through It

«

a wall or roof, marked progress has been made in recent years in ! p the manufacture of efficient insulating materials, many good brands | having been placed on the market. Some are made in blanket form i c of soft, flexible materials, such as felt, wool, hair, and fiber, to be | [ stretched and tucked between the studs, floor joists, and rafters; | others come in loose form and can be packed into hollow spaces ; and I others are in stiff board form to be used as sheathing, plaster base,'f ^ or merely as insulation.

The manufacturers of insulating materials are usually glad to i cooperate with the prospective users by furnishing literature de- ! scribing their products and giving full instructions for applying i them and by also supplying special advice where necessary.^^

| Where Insulation is Most Needed.

The roof is the most exposed part of the house, being subject to 1 the direct rays of the sun in summer and to strong cold winds in

winter. In an unfinished attic a great amount of heat is lost through the roof during the winter months. The rapid melting i of snow on the roof is evidence of this. In the summertime the heat ! passes through into the attic, making the temperature in the upper / part of the house almost unbearable. It is therefore important that

the roof or the upper story of the house be insulated.

How to Improve Conditions. I If the attic is being used and there is necessity for keeping it atf i a comfortable temperature throughout the year, application of at! least one-half inch, preferably more, of good insulation to the under- r side of the roof rafters or against the roof boards between the raftersi ; is advisable. -

j If there is no necessity for keeping the attic space at a comfortableil

lemperature, insulation is best applied under the attic floor on top of || or between the joists. If there is no floor, a few boards may be laid|j

down to walk upon. ‘

| Spaces between the studs at the floor line should be boarded over,

j This boarding not only blocks the free passage of air from within^ the walls but also provides a fire stop, which is recommended-for

good construction.

Attic windows should be weather tight, and if there are louvers, < or vents, to admit air, they should be made to close like shutters or

be provided with doors on the inside to be closed during severe j weather. The louvers should also be screened to keep out insects, d

especially those which injure woodwork. j

1'' The National Bureau of Standards has made tests of various insulating materials and

the resxilts of its findings are contained in Circular No. 376, Thermal Insulation of Buildings, listed on p. 108 of this publication. d
CAEE AND EEPAIE OF THE HOUSE 57

X. HEATING AND VENTILATING

1. HOW TO FILL A HOT-WATER OR STEAM-HEATING SYSTEM

The method used in filling a hot-water heating system is the

reverse of that used in draining the system (explained in Ch. XI,

sec. 3). The filling is more easily done if two persons work to- gether—one controlling the flow of water into the, boiler and the

other operating the radiator relief valves.

Open all radiator shut-off valves and be sure that the air valve on each radiator is closed. See that the draw-off cock at the lowest

point in the system is closed, and then open the valve in the supply

pipe which feeds the boiler. As soon as the water begins to rise in

the pipes, open the air valve on each radiator, beginning at the one nearest the boiler, to release the air so that the, radiators may

fill with water. When water begins to spurt from the air valve, shut

it off, and proceed to the next radiator. Repeat this operation until

all radiators are free from air and full of water. When adding water to a boiler with fire under it, be sure that

the fire is low, and let the water in gradually. A large volume of

cold water suddenly injected into a hot boiler may cause it to crack.

Gravity System.

In the case of the gravity system, the supply-pipe valve should

be shut off when the water has risen to such a height that the ex- pansion tank at the top of the system is one-third full. (The

expansion tank is usually located on an upstairs closet shelf or in

the attic, preferably near the chimne}^, to protect it from freezing.)

The height of water in the tank is usually indicated on a v^ater- gage glass attached to it. Always keep the water at the level mentioned, to insure complete circulation throughout the system.

Pressure System.

In the case of a pressure system, see that the radiators are all well filled with water. Whether or not they are full may be determined by opening the air valves. The flow of water from the supply

pipe is usually controlled by a separate automatic valve, which shuts

off the supply when the water rises to the proper height. Expansion of an oversupply of water is taken care of by an automatic

release valve attached to the outlet pipe, which opens and allows

excess water to flow out of the system. When the water falls below

the required height, the automatic valve opens, allowing enough

water to enter to fill the system. The regular shut-off' valve in the

"supply pipe is left open where an automatic valve is used.

Altitude Gage.

The red, or stationary hand, of the dial, or altitude gage, on top

of hot-water boilers, is generally set at the proper elevation mark

for that particular system, and the black hand should be kept at that point for best results. If the black hand does not cover the

red hand when the system is properly filled, the latter, which is merely a marker, may be moved to its proper position by removing

the glass face from the dial.

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58 CAKE AND KEPAIK OE THE HOUSE

Steam-Heating Boilers.

In steam-heating boilers keep the boiler filled with water to the | center of the water gauge glass. Jr Instruction Card. ,, A printed instruction card, furnished by the manufacturer of the ^ boiler, should be hung near it, and the instructions should be care-

^ fully followed.

2. INSULATING HOT-WATER AND STEAM-HEATING SYSTEMS |

Insulating, or covering the boiler and pipes of a heating system, |

is done to increase the efficiency of the system and to reduce the cost of operation.

It has been found that the heat loss from bare or improperly *| insulated pipes and boiler may amount to 15 per cent to 25 per cent

j of the boiler capacity, and that a good covering will save from 80 ' per cent to 95 per cent of baresurface losses. ^ The small percentage of heat which escapes through the insulating ^ material, combined with radiation from the doors and other exposed

parts of the boiler, will be sufficient in many cases to warm the cellar, < especially if it is well constructed and the doors and windows are

| properly weatherproofed. ' Extent of Insulation.

The extent of covering is governed principally by the type of , heating system and existing conditions in individual cases. It is generally agreed that, in any case, it is well to cover at least the j) boiler and the pipes through which water is distributed to the i; radiators. The advisability of covering the return pipes depends !, on the type of system and the amount of heat desired in the cellar. I Covering the return pipes of hot-water heating systems is recom- J mended so that the water may be returned to the boiler with a mini- ; mum heat loss. In vacuum and vapor steam-heating systems, it is ! considered better to leave the return pipes bare, to aid in the con- | densation of any steam which might escape into the returns through i. defective thermostatic traps. ,|| Properties and Structure of Insulating Materials. i The covering should be fire resistant and a poor conductor of heat. [ These qualities are found in asbestos air cell, asbestos cement, magnesia, mineral (or rock wool), and similar coverings. The applica- ^ tion of some of these materials is described in the following para- | graphs:

| The air-cell covering is made of layers of corrugated asbestos |i paper wrapped in canvas. It is manufactured in sections 3 feet l' long in the shape of hollow cylinders split lengthwise on one side so

| that it may be readily placed around the pipe. (See fig. 12.) The f covering is made in several thicknesses and for various pipe sizes. Each section has a canvas lap to be pasted over the longitudinal

|j joint and a canvas flap at one end to be pasted over the joint between i sections. To further bind the covering and to make a neat-looking [ job, metal bands are furnished, to be placed about 18 inches apart, |: over the joints between sections and around the middle of each

section.
CARE AN-D REPAIR OF THE HOUSE 59

i For insulating boilers and pipe fittings, such as valves, ells, and

Itees, where the use of fabricator coverings is not practicable, asbestos

cement may be used. This material, because of its natural cell-like structure and fire-resisting qualities, serves the same purpose as the

pipe covering.

\Tools.

A steel tape measure, plasterer’s trowel, hand saw, sharp pocket

'knife, pliers, a metal tub or similar container for mixing cement, a jpan or dish for paste, and a small, flat paste brush.

\ Materials.

' A 4-ply, or 1 inch thick, asbestos air-cell covering is frequently

used for insulating pipes in home heating plants. To estimate the

(quantity needed, carefully measure between fittings all pipes that are

I to be covered and combine measurements for each size of pipe to

I obtain the total linear feet of each

i size of covering. Metal band fastentjers are furnished with the covering.

To estimate the quantity of asj bestos cement needed to cover the

' boiler and pipe fittings, measure

' the entire surface of the boiler to be

} covered, together with the surfaces

of pipe fittings, and compute the

i square-foot area of each. A 100-

pound bag of cement will cover from

20 to 25 square feet of surface to a

j thickness of 1 inch. Some brands

are sold also in 10-pound bags.

! A sufficient quantity of 1-inch

' mesh wire netting, commonly called

“ chicken wire,” to cover the surface

I of the boiler is needed.

As it is well to inclose the cement

I covering around pipe fittings in a

canvas jacket, obtain a sufficient quantity of canvas for this purpose

of the same weight as that on the air-cell covering.

For pasting the canvas laps on air-cell coverings and for fastenij ing canvas jackets over pipe fittings, a suitable paste is sold by

manufacturers of the covering material.

I A satisfactory paste may be made of flour and water, similar to

I that used in paper hanging. Mix 1 part of powdered alum with

> 60 parts of sifted white flour and add enough cold water to make

a smooth paste. Then pour on boiling water until the paste begins

to thicken, at which point stop pouring and stir the mixture

thoroughly.

SPLIT PIPE- COVEiilNO

Figure 12,—Applying split pipe

covering around hot-water heat- ing pipes

. Mixing and Applying Asbestos Cement.

Ik i^Mix the asbestos cement thoroughly in a tub or similar container,

I using only enough water to make the mixture workable. At least

I two coats should be applied to the boiler and pipe fittings, and they

I should be put on when the pipes are warm to insure best results. For

the boiler, use a 1-inch first coat and a half-inch second coat; for
60 CAKE AND EEPAIR OF THE HOUSE

the pipe fittings, use one-half inch for each coat. The first coat ini' ail cases should be applied roughly with the hands or with a plas-y

terer’s trowel, and the surface roughened or scratched so that it will j form a good bond with the second coat. Methods and Order of Procedure. !j To start the job apply the first coat to the boiler so that it can dry i while the pipe covering is being placed. When the first coat is fairly i, dry, and before applying the second coat, stretch and fasten the

' wire netting over the surface to hold the first coat. It probably will

have cracked, but the wire will serve as a reinforcement for both

;

coats. (See fig. 13.)

Before covering the pipes, see that they are clean and in good con1

dition. Then, loosen the canvas lap to open the section of covering i and brush paste along the edge for refastening the lap. Then slip!

the section around the pipe with the id open side up and with the end which ' has no canvas joint overlap toward ! the fittings. Now, press the section

tightly together, paste the lap se1

curely over the longitudinal joint, | and push the section tightly against | the fitting. The second section should , be applied in the same manner, and

j pushed tightly against the first. The I joint between the two should be sealed : over by pasting the overlap on the

first section over the joint. Continue | to cover the pipe in this way until | the next fitting is reached. When a | short section is needed, it can be cut ' with a sharp knife and handsaw. i The first coat on the fittings should

be applied roughly with the hands to about one-half inch in thickness. It dry while the finishing coat is being

second coat on the boiler should be

troweled down hard and smooth as it dries. The next step is to finish covering the fittings by applying a halfinch second coat, or enough to make the same thickness as the pipe

covering. This coat should be troweled hard and smooth and bevelled down to meet the surface of the pipe covering.

The cement on the fittings will be protected and will present a neater appearance if it is covered with a canvas jacket. The canvas

should be of the same weight as that used on pipe covering and

should be pasted down smoothly. For the sake of appearance and

to preserve the canvas, all such material may be sized and painted

with two coats of lead and oil in a suitable color. The metal bands around the pipe covering should be applied

after all of the other work is completed, so that they may be kept

clean and give a neat finished appearance to the job. The bands

should be placed about 18 inches apart, over the joints and midway

Figurei 13. —Applying “ ch wJcen wire ” in connection with

boiler cohering

will have an opportunity to placed on the boiler. The
CARE AND REPAIR OE THE HOUSE 61

between. They should be pulled up tightly and fastened like a

belt. This can be done with the pliers.

3. INSULATING WARM-AIR FURNACES AND PIPES

Warm-air furnaces may be made more efficient and the consumption of coal reduced by insulating the furnace and pipes in the cellar. It is not so essential, however, to cover a pipeiess or 1-pipe furnace,

because the space between the inner and outer shells is filled with cold

air, which provides considerable insulation.

In the ordinary type of warm-air furnace, with pipes to various

rooms, if the entire system is well covered, the cellar will be kept

sufficiently cool for the storage of foods, and more heat will be delivered to the upper rooms where it is most needed. If a warmer

cellar is desired, insulating the pipes only and leaving the furnace

bare will afford the necessary radiation.

Tools.

A steel tape measure, a pencil, a pair of heavy shears or a sharp

knife, a pair of wire-cutting pliers, a small trowel, and an old dish

pan or similar container for mixing asbestos cement.

Materials.

A sufficient quantity of corrugated asbestos paper to provide a

3-layer covering for all pipes and the furnace. (This material is made in rolls about 37 inches wide, containing about 250 square feet of material. For the average 7-room or 8-room house two rolls are

sufficient.

)

A small roll of No. 10 or No. 18 gage black or galvanized wire

to hold the covering in place.

One 100-pound bag of asbestos cement should be sufficient to cover

the sloping shoulder of the furnace. Tliis amount will cover from

20 to 25 square feet of surface to a thickness of 1 inch. Some brands

are sold also in 10-pound bags for convenience.

Kinds of Insulating Materials for Warm-Air Systems.

Some of the insulating materials are similar to those used on

hot-water or steam-heating systems. The corrugated paper insulators, or those designed to form a tight-fitting jacket, are usually

preferred. Plastic material is often used to cover the irregular t surfaces of the furnace.

The application of corrugated asbestos paper and asbestos cement

is as follows: The paper is wrapped around the pipes and around

the cylindrical surface of the furnace and placed on top of the

furnace. Asbestos cement is generally used to cover the sloping

shoulder.

Applying the Straight Pipe Covering.

Before covering the pipes, see that they are clean and in good

condition. Then measure around the pipe and add II/2 inches to allow for the thickness of the material. Cut a strip off the roll to

this length and wrap around the pipe, tying it with string in three

places, near each end and in the middle. (See fig. 14, facing p. G2.)

Then measure around the outside of the covering and add 1% inches

30292°—31 5

c
62 CARE AND REPAIR OF THE HOUSE

to get the length of the second piece. Tie this piece around the pipe over the first, breaking end and longitudinal joints, and proceed in

the same way to apply the third or top layer. By adding II/2 inches

to each measurement the ends of the pieces should just meet when

wrapped around the pipe. The joints of each succeeding layer

should be covered by staggering or “breaking joints” as it is com- monly called. The three layers may finally be bound together by

fastening bands of wire around the covering at intervals of about

18 inches.

Covering the Bends.

It is not absolutely necessary to cover the bends in the pipes as they form but a small part of the system. However, it is not a diffi- cult task, and it will add to the efficiency and appearance of the covering. A 90° bend will require two or three specially cut pieces

to cover it, depending on the number of separate sections in the bend.

Figure 15.—Method of markinff pipe bend covering for cutting

These pieces are cut diamond shape to conform to the surface to be

covered, and the dimensions are obtained by measuring the widest

and the narrowest parts of the bend as illustrated in Figure 15. When all of the pipes and bends have been covered, a smooth,

finished appearance may be had by pasting strips of asbestos paper

over the joints.

Insulating the Furnace.

To cover the vertical surface of the furnace, wrap from one to three layers of corrugated asbestos paper around it, and fasten with

bands of tie wire, or stove wire. (See fig. 16.) At the furnace

doors the ends of the wires may be attached to bolts or other projections. Obviously, holes should be cut in the covering for doors and

other attachments.

The top of the furnace may be hollow shaped and filled with sand,

but the sand does little toward preventing heat losses. The furnace

top can be covered by laying three or four layers of asbestos paper

over it. These pieces may be held in place by extending the asbestos

cement shoulder coating up over the edges of the paper, as shown in
BHI5.

Care

and

Repair

of

the

House

Figure

14.

—

Covering

warm-air

furnace

pipes

Figure

16.

Insulating

a

warm-air

furnace
BH15. Care and Repair of the House

Figure 17—Typical radiator valve

VALVE STEM

PACKING NUT

Figure 18.—Typical water shut-off cock
CARE AND REPAIR OF THE HOUSE 63

i;jthe illustration. The paper can be marked for cutting to the size

j| and shape of the top by means of a string and a pencil. Tie the

I pencil to one end of a piece of string half as long as the diameter

I of the top and use this device as a compass.

I The sloping shoulder of the furnace from which the pipes lead

I can be insulated with a covering of asbestos cement to a thickness

i of one-half to 1 inch. The cement, which comes in powdered form,

i is mixed with just enough water do make it workable, and then

i applied and troweled down hard and smooth with a plasterer’s

j trowel.

I 4. INSULATING A HOT-WATER STORAGE TANK

j An uninsulated hot-water storage tank has been likened to a huge

I hot-water radiator. Much of the heat that should be retained by the

water passes out through the walls of the tank. If the tank is loI Gated in the kitchen, the radiation may cause much discomfort

I during the summer.

j Covering on a tank insures greater efficiency by keeping the water

! hot for a much longer period, thereby reducing the amount of fuel

needed.

I Tank covers may be bought ready-made to fit any standard size

i of tank. They are made of incombustible heat-insulating materials,

I, similar to those used in pipe and boiler coverings. Some have the

appearance of a large section of pipe covering, split lengthwise on

one side, so that they may be readily wrapped around the tank. If

connection pipes are in the way, openings for them can easily be cut

in the covering at the joint edge. Metal bands, laces, or other forms

of fasteners are furnished to hold the covering together. The top of

the tank may be covered with asbestos cement or similar plaster

material, in the same manner as the shoulders of a furnace. (See

sec. 3 of this chapter.)

5. REPACKING A LEAKY RADIATOR VALVE

If a radiator valve leaks around the stem, it should be promptly

attended to, in order to avoid damage to the floor and, possibly, to the ceiling below the radiator.

The trouble may result from a loose packing nut at the base of

the stem (see fig. 17, p. 64), or from worn or insufficient packing inside

the nut. Try tightening the nut. If this does not stop the leakage,

it will be necessary to repack the valve.

To do this it is generally advisable, especially for one who is not

^familiar with such work, to let the fire go out before starting to pack. It is always advisable to have a very low fire. In the case of a hot-water system, lower the level of the water

to a point below the radiator being repaired by opening the drawoff cock at the lowest point in the system, as described in Chapter

XI, section 3. To determine whether the water is sufficiently low,

loosen the packing nut a little. If water spurts out, continue to draw water from the system until flow ceases at that point. The

elevation of water in the system above the gage on top of the

boiler is marked by the black pointer.

c
64 CAEE AND EEPAIR OF THE HOUSE

In the case of a steam-heating system, it is likewise advisable to

let the fire go out, or at least to have a low head of steam, before

starting work on the valves.

When these preliminaries have been attended to, close the valve

tightly, unscrew the packing nut at the base of the stem, and pack

the space between the inside of the nut and the stem with plastic,

metallic packing compound, using a small screw driver for the purpose. This compound may be purchased in small quantities from a dealer in heating supplies. It may be found easier to pack the nut

if it is removed from the stem. To do this, remove the handle, held

in place by a screw, and lift the nut from, the stem. After the nut has been well ])acked, screw it down tightly and

refill the system, as described in section 1 of this chapter, pages

57 to 58.

6.

CLEANING A CLOGGED GRATE

A fire should be shaken down at least twice a day to remove ashes

and to provide a better draft through the grates. The ash pit

should be cleaned out daily, for if it is allowed to fill up to the

grate bars there is danger of warping or burning out the grates.

In most stoves and furnaces, just above the grate surface, there

are clean-out doors through which a poker may be inserted to break

up and pull out clinkers. If an unusually large, hard clinker lodges

l)etween the plates in such a way that the grate can not be shaken

or turned over and the obstruction can not be readilj^ broken up or removed with a poker, it will be necessary to clean out the fire pot

to get free access to the obstruction. When the fire pot is empty, the

]ioker can again be used to better advantage. Do not try to turn

the grate by force to dislodge or break up such an obstruction, as

this action may break the grate.

7.

HOW TO MEND A CRACK IN A STOVE

A crack in the iron casing of a stove can be fixed by filling the

crack with stove putty or iron-repair cement made by mixing iron

filings and water glass (*silicate of soda), using enough of the filings to form a thick paste. Force the paste well into the crack with the

aid of a trowel or old table knife, and plaster over the surface of the

crack with the same material. The heat from the stove will harden

the cement almost like iron and make a tight joint.

Another iron mender is made of iron filings, flowers of sulphur,

and water, mixed to a stiff paste and applied to the crack in the manner described above. The mixture burns when heated and

turns into iron sulphide, which fuses and welds into one mass with

the iron of the stove.

8.

REPLACING AND CLEANING MICA IN STOVES

Broken mica in a stove door is not only unsightly but it is a menace, in that it may permit dust, smoke, and coal gas to escape

into the house, besides allowing cool air to pass over the fire, thus

decreasing its efficiency.
CARE AND REPAIR OF THE HOUSE 65

To Replace Broken Mica.

The mica is usually held in place by metal clips screwed to the

inside of the door. By removing these clips the broken pieces can

be removed and new ones inserted. It may be possible to renew

the mica without removing the clips by merely bending it and slipping the edges under the clips, but this method is not recommended,

as there is danger of cracking or breaking the material. The openings requiring new mica should be measured and new pieces purchased at a hardware store to conform to the measurements. It may

be necessary to trim the pieces slightly with a pair of scissors in

order to fit them neatly into the openings.

How to Clean Mica.

Mica often becomes clouded or blackened by gases and soot, but it can be cleaned and made to look almost like new. Remove the doors

by lifting out the hinge bolts, and then, with a damp cloth, wipe off

all dust and as much soot as possible. Then saturate a cloth with

vinegar and go over both sides of each piece. This will remove the

stains and produce a polished appearance.

9. STORING THE STOVE AND STOVEPIPE FOR THE SUMMER

Many householders store their stoves during the summer months.

Before placing them in storage, they should be cleaned and polished.

If possible, they should be wrapped with newspaper, burlap, or old

carpet to protect them from dust and rust, and stored in a dry

place.

It is well to examine the grates and lining as soon as the stove is taken down and to have needed repairs made for the autumn. If

parts are found to be defective, an order should be placed promptly

for new parts. The make and number of the stove is usually marked

on it, and these identifications should be reported to the hardw'are

man, or dealer in heating equipment, when new parts are purchased.

Cleaning and Storing Stovepipe.

Stovepipes need cleaning often, especially if the draft is poor.

Soot will collect in the pipe, particularly if soft coal is burned.

Before taking down the pipe, it is well to cover the floor about the

stove with newspaper to catch whatever soot drops out. Carefully

carry the pipe out of doors awa}^ from the house before removing

the soot. The ends of the pipe should not be pounded nor should

the pipe be otherwise roughly handled.

Stovepipe, as a rule, is made of sheet iron and should be kept

.enameled and polished to prevent rusting. When it is put away for

the summer each length should be wrapped in paper and all should

be stored in a dry place.

XL PLUMBING AND WATER SYSTEM

1. GENERAL COMMENTS ON PLUMBING

The plumbing of a building includes the pipes for distributing

the water supply, the fixtures for using water, and the drainage pipes

for removing waste water and sewage, together with fittings and

c
66 CAKE AND REPAIR OF THE HOUSE

appurtenances of various kinds, all within or adjacent to the

building.

To many, the plumbing system appears to be a very complicated

part of the household equipment and they hesitate to undertake even

,

the simplest repairs.

Although it is not to be expected that the average householder

will be able to perform all of the work of an experienced plumber,

it is possible for him, in cases of emergency, to make the simpler

repairs that are frequently necessary. Trouble and expense may be

averted by prompt repairs to a leaky faucet, or by the cleaning out

of a fixture drain at the first signs of clogging. Occasionally some |

difficulty involving the pipes may arise, and then, unless it is com- i paratively simple to adjust, a plumber should be called in to do the

work.

j

- Each part of a plumbing system is designed for,a specific purpose ‘‘ and must be used for that purpose alone, if the system is to function

properly. Grease or refuse should not be thrown into closet bowls,

sinks, or lavatories; faucets should be tightly closed when not in use; and waste pipes should be flushed frequently with hot water

to keep them in good working order.

2. WHERE AND HOW TO SHUT OFF THE WATER :

\l The flow of water in a house is controlled by means of stopcocks, ; or shut-off valves, in the pipes. To shut off the main supply as it j enters the house, it is necessary to close a valve which is usually

in the main pipe in the cellar. The valve may have a handle, or a wrench may be required to turn it. ! This valve may be of the ground-key type with a small hole bored

in its side for draining the pipes after the water is shut off, or it may be a compression stop with a cap nut covering the drain opening. In either case, this opening should be closed when the water is turned off, for unless this is done, a stream of water will shoot from

the hole with considerable force. Where no means have been provided for shutting off a drain

opening, a small wooden peg may be driven into it temporarily, | until the pressure is relieved by draining the pipes through the i faucets.

If the house is left vacant during the winter months it is safest ( to have the water shut off at the official stopcock in the street to pre- vent freezing between the cellar wall and the main shut-off. ’ In modern plumbing, separate shut-off cocks are often provided ^ below the sink, lavatory, water-closet, or other fixtures, for con- ‘ venience when repairs are to be made, so that the flow of water may

be cut off from any one fixture without disturbing the flow to the

other parts of the system. (See fig. 18, facing p. 63.) It is important that all members of the family know where these

various shut-offs are located, in case of emergency.

3. HOW TO DRAIN THE PIPES AND SYSTEM

For minor repairs, such as replacing a washer in a faucet, the tern-

' porary shutting off of the water from the branch shut-off (described

in sec. 2 of this chapter) is sufficient. Where extensive repairs.
CAEE AND EEPAIR OF THE HOUSE 67

jsuch as pipe changes, are proposed, the main water supply should

I be cut off and the pipes drained. If the fires are allowed to go out,

and the house is to be vacant during cold weather, it is a wise pre- caution to drain the entire water system, to guard against freezing

and resulting damage.

To drain the pipes, first shut off the water, as previously described,

j Then, starting at the top floor, open all faucets on the way down.

I When the water from the faucets ceases to run, the small cock or

I cap in the main pipe valve may be opened or the plug removed to

; drain into a bucket or tub what little water remains.

1 If the house is to be vacated during the winter, in addition to

j draining the pipes, the water still remaining in the traps under

sinks, water-closets, , tubs, lavatories, and showers, should be

removed by opening the traps and draining them, or by forcing

i the water out by means of a force pump, or by drawing it out with

a suction pump or siphon hose. The traps may then be filled with

j kerosene, crude glycerine, or some similar nonfreezable liquid to

; form a seal against bad odors from the waste pipes. Alcohol and

j| kerosene mixed is a good solution to use, since the kerosene will rise

! to the top and prevent evaporation of the alcohol,

j The water-closet tanks should be emptied by flushing, after the

I water has been turned off, and any surplus water taken out with a

ii sponge or cloth. The water-closet traps can be cleared of water by

j means of a sponge tied to a stick or wire.

ii The hot-water tank should be emptied. It usually has a cock in

Ij the piping at the top that' will allow air to enter the tank and permit

I the water to be drawn off through the faucet at the bottom.

[ If the house is heated by hot water or steam, the system should be

I drained before the house is vacated in winter. Assuming that all

I of the fires are out, shut off the main water supply at the wall or

j street, then draw off the water from the boiler by opening the drawi off cock at the lowest point in the system. Open the water-supply

I; valve to the boiler so that no water will remain trapped above it.

I Then, in any hot-water system, beginning with highest radiators,

I open the air valve on all radiators as fast as the water lowers. In a

i 1-pipe steam system every radiator valve should be opened to release

i condensation. When a heating system has been drained, be sure

! that it is properly refilled before starting a fire under the boiler,

j (See Ch. X, sec. 1.) If the house is left vacant in the summer, it is not necessary to drain the supply pipes or system. Shut off the water at the cellar Iwall as a precaution against waste of water from a dripping faucet or

possible leak in the piping.

4. REPAIRING A LEAKY FAUCET

1 Tools.

! Monkey wrench, screw driver, pliers, and a small piece of cloth

jto avoid marring the faucets. Materials,

I Fiber, rubber, leather, or special composition washers for comI pression-type faucets. (Assorted sizes are readily obtained at a

1 hardware store.)

i

Q

I
68 CAEE AND KEPAIPv OF THE HOUSE

Rubber or composition Fuller balls for Fuller faucets. Small quantity of valve-grinding compound (composed of emery

dust and grease) for ground-key faucets.

Compression Type.

General description. —The compression type of faucet is being

used almost exclusively in modern household plumbing and is rapidly replacing the Fuller and ground-key types. (See fig. 19.) In

the compression-type faucet, the flow of water is regulated by turn- ing a lever, tee, or 4-ball handle, which is attached to a threaded

spindle. When the spindle is turned down, the washer or disk atFiguee 19.—Section of a compression faucet tached to its lower end is pressed tightly against the smoothljr fin- ished ring, or “ ground seat ” which surrounds the flow opening,”

thus shutting off the flow of water. If the washer and the seat do'^ not make a firm contact at all points, water will leak through and

drip from the faucet. A leak usually results from a wornout washer.

If the washers wear out rapidly, it may be because a poor grade of.' washer is used, or because the ground seat has become sharp and

rough as a result of corrosion, or has been scratched or worn by grit, i

j It is important that faucets be tightly closed after they are used, I since dripping faucets tend to produce or aggravate leaks, and can

|| waste much water.

For suggested means of identifying the three principal types of faucets, see p. 71.

PACKING WASHER.

THRE1ADE.D

3PJNDLE.

OJ5K WASHEJ^

BRAS>3

5CRE.W

NUT

GROUND 5E.AT

FLOW OPEAIINO
CAEE AND EEPAIR OF THE HOUSE 69

Care in Selecting Washers.

To avoid frequent renewals, get a good grade of ivaslier that will wear well. It does not pay to use leather or other washers suitable

for cold water only in a hot-water faucet. The %-inch, V2-inch, and

%-inch sizes are most frequently used, and it may be well to have

a supply of these sizes on hand. One good type of washer, made of

a hard composition, has one side flat and the other side rounded out

slightly; and a better contact is made with this type because the

washer, by fitting partly down into the seat, is subject to both horizontal and vertical pressure. Some faucets are designed to take a specially shaped washer, and examination of the one already in use may save an extra trip to the plumbing supply or hardware store. Replacing the Washer.

Shut off the water below the fixture, if possible, or in the main

pipe. With a wrench, using the cloth to protect the fixture from

being marred, unscrew the top nut or cap of the faucet, which will

allow the spindle to be unscrewed and removed. Carefully remove

the brass screw that holds the washer to the bottom of the spindle,

and replace the worn washer with a new one. The head of the brass screw is often badly worn, making it difficult to remove and likely to twist off' unless handled carefully. A drop

or two of kerosene and gentle tapping of the screw ina}" help to loosen it. The screw driver should have a good square edge and

should be turned with a steady pressure. If the head of the screw

chips off so that it does not hold the screw driver, the slot can be

deepened by cutting into the head whth a hack saw. It is well to replace a badly worn screw with a new one. Grinding Down an Irregular Washer Seat. A worn or roughened washer seat can often be ground true and

smoothed off by the use of a faucet seat-dressing tool. Such a tool

is inexpensive and will probably more than pay for itself wuthin a reasonable time. One type consists of a stem with a cutter at the

lower end and a wheel handle at the top to rotate the tool. It is fitted with a spiraled cone to be inserted into the bod}^ of the faucet

and screwed down Jirmly for the purpose of centering and holding

the cutter on the washer seat. When the tool is thus properly adjusted, it is carefully rotated back and forth several times b}^ means

of the wheel handle, until the seat is ground free of irregularities.

When the grinding is finished, all metal cuttings should be wiped

out with a cloth before the faucet is reassembled. If the seat is in

such bad condition that it does not respond to this treatment and

continues to cut the washers, it will be necessary to substitute a new

faucet.

Leakage Around the Stem.

If water leaks out around the stem when the faucet is open, it may

frequently be stopped by tightening the cap nut. but the nut should

not be made so tight as to cause the faucet to bind. If this does not overcome the difficulty, it is probable that the packing ivashers under

the cap nut are worn out. To remedy this condition, remove the

handle and cap nuAand replace the washers with a new set. To

stop the leakage temporarily, wrap a small piece of candlewicking or

c
70 CAEE AND EEPAIR OF THE HOUSE

soft string around the stem under the cap nut where the stem enters the body of the faucet.

Fuller Type.

General description—In this type of faucet, which is often found

in kitchen sinks, a hard-rubber or composition ball-like stopper,

known as a Fuller ball, is fastened by a small nut or screw to a shaft

having an eccentric end. (See fig. 20.) When the faucet handle is closed, this ball is drawn firmly against the opening, shutting off the

flow of water ; when opened, the ball is pushed away from the opening, allowing the water to pass through. The best grade of Fuller

ball should be used. Such balls are made in various sizes, ranging

from three-eighths inch to 1 inch and the most suitable one should

be selected. Replacing a Fuller Ball. Shut off the water and unscrew and separate the faucet from the

supply pipe. With pliers or a screw driver the nut or screw can be

taken off and the ball removed and

replaced with a new one. Leakage Around Axle of Fuller

Ball. Sometimes the metal axle which

holds the Fuller ball or the eccentric part becomes worn, making

it impossible to pull the ball tight

against the seat, and allowing leakage between the ball and the seat. In this case it will be necessary

to purchase new metal parts to replace the worn ones. Figure 21. —A ground-key faucet Leakage Around the Stem.

If water leaks out around the stem when the faucet is open, re- pairs can be made in the same manner as prescribed for similar leakage in compression-type faucets.

Ground-key Type.

General description. —The ground-key type has a tapered cylindrical brass plunger or plug which should fit snugly into a sleeve,

bored vertically through the body of the faucet. (See fig. 21.) The

plunger is rotated by a handle. It has a hole or slot bored horizontally through it, to coincide with a similarly shaped horizontal opening in the body of the faucet. When the handle that rotates the

plunger is parallel to the body of the faucet, these two openings are

in line with each other and allow the water to pass through. A short

turn of the handle to the right or left throws the openings out of

line and cuts off the flow. Cause of Leakage.

The plunger or its sleeve may become grooved or worn by sand

particles rubbing against the metal, allowing the water to leak

through and necessitating repolishing the adjoining surfaces. Again,
I

BHI5. Care and Repair of the House

Q
1
CARE AND REPAIR OF THE HOUSE 71

ii

i

l;

j the nut or screw at the bottom may become loose and the plunger move out of its true position and allow leakage. On the other hand,

if the nut or screw is too tight the plunger will bind and will be

I difficult to turn.

I Repolishing the Surface.

To repolish the surfaces shut off the water supply, unfasten the

nut or screw at the bottom which holds the plunger in place, and

pull out the plunger. With a small flat stick, smear a little valvegrinding compound (a compound of emery dust and grease, obtainable from a dealer in plumbing goods) on the sides of the plunger,

and after temporarily replacing the plunger in the sleeve rotate it back and forth to wear the two surfaces smooth so that they will

form a leak-proof joint. If the parts are worn badly and refuse to respond to this remedy, it will be necessary to purchase a new

faucet. How to Distinguish the Type of Faucet.

Before attempting to repair a faucet its type should be known so that the proper materials may be provided, without the inconvenience and delay occasioned by guesswork.

The compression type of faucet is usually fitted with a lever, tee, or 4-ball handle and obviously offers firm resistance against efforts

to turn down the spindle much beyond the point where the flow of

water stops. The stem of the spindle may be seen to move in or out of the body of the faucet when the handle is turned. A self- closing faucet is usually of the compression type.

When a Fuller ball is in good condition, the handle should require

but a quarter turn to open or close the flow opening. Fuller faucets

are generally fitted with a lever handle, and the stem does not move in or out of the body of the faucet when the handle is turned.

The ground-key type is easily distinguished by the lever handle

and plunger, which is made in one piece, and by the exposed nut or screw at the lower end which holds the plunger in place.

If it is impossible from the outside appearance to distinguish

between a compression and a Fuller-type faucet, it will be necessary

to dismantle it to decide the question. At the same time, the kind

and size of washer or Fuller ball may be determined and the condition of the brass screw examined to see whether it requires renewal.

5. ELIMINATING THUMPING NOISE IN FAUCETS

Sometimes when a faucet is partly turned on, a thumping or pounding noise is heard. This may be caused, in a compression-type

"faucet, by a loose cap nut, a worn spindle, or a loose defective disk.

In the Fuller-type faucet, the Fuller ball may be loose, or the metal

eccentric, which connects the handle to the Fuller ball, may be worn. Tools. Monkey wrench, screw driver, pliers, and a small piece of cloth

to prevent marring faucets.

A Remedy.

For a compression type of faucet try tightening the nut on top

of the faucet, and if this does not produce the desired result, shut

Q
72 CAEE AND EEPAIR OF THE HOUSE

off the water and take out and examine the spindle and disk washer. \

If the disk is loose, tighten the brass screw ; but if the disk is worn, | remove the brass screw and attach a new disk. If the threads on ? the spindle or in the body of the faucet are badlj^ worn, causing the ; spindle to rattle, it probably will be necessary to purchase a new i faucet. ; If the faucet is a Fuller type, shut off the water and tighten the

small nut or screw, which holds the Fuller ball, in case it should

be loose, or replace the ball with a new one if the old ball is much ij worn. If parts of the eccentric are worn and tend to rattle, take i the faucet to a plumber. If the eccentric is beyond repair and new | parts can not be obtained it will be necessary to discard the faucet. ,

6. HOW TO STOP A LEAKAGE IN THE FLUSH TANK

$ If, after a toilet is flushed, the water continues to run into the

^ closet bowl, it is evident that some part of the mechanism inside the

flush tank is out of order. The parts comprising this mechanism

are not oversubstantial and sometimes require renewal or adjustment.

It is sometimes difficult to detect leakage, but a failure to do so I

may prove costly. A small piece of paper held against the back of ; the closet bowl and above the level of the water will make it easier to detect flow of water. If the paper is quickly saturated it is evi- . dent that there is leakage. Leakage from the tank may also be in- dicated by a low humming noise.

How the Tank is Filled.

The supply pipe that fills the tank is fitted with a lever ball cock,

which operates somewhat like a compression -type faucet having a plunger with a rubber washer to close the opening. (See fig. 22.) ; The water supply to the tank is turned on and off by the raising and

lowering of this plunger by means of a hollow copper ball float, i acting through a lever. When the flush valve is opened, and the

water level begins to lower, the copper ball float goes down with it and, by means of the lever, raises the plunger, allowing a fresh L supply of water to enter the tank. When the flush valve is again

closed, the incoming water gradually refills the tank and, in rising,

carries the float up with it, which action slowly lowers the plunger I into its seat and stops the filling process. An overflow tube, or I pipe, is provided in the flush tank to carry off the water should it i rise above its accustomed level. This pipe empties into the closest ! bowl. I How the Tank is Emptied.

The opening and closing of the outlet from the tank to the closet boAvl is accomplished by the raising and lowering of a rubber ball r, stopper suspended by lift wires, which are attached by another lever ^ to the push button or handle on the outside of the flush box. When

the button is pressed or the handle turned the rubber ball stop])er ’ is lifted from its seat on the outlet pipe, allowing the water in the

tank to rush into and flush the toilet bowl. In the meantime, the

| stopper is suspended and floats until the tank is empt}’', when it again

| sinks to its seat. It is then held in place by suction, shutting off ' further discharge into the bowl.
I

1

[: CARE AND REPAIR OF THE HOUSE 73

I Causes of Leakage.

; Leakage may occur either from the supply cock or the outlet

I valve, and is usualy caused by improper seating of the plunger in

I the one case, or of the rubber ball stopper in the other. Failure to

I seat properly may be attributed to various causes, the more common

I of which will be briefly described, with recommendations for repairs.

I If the water in the tank rises so high that it flows off through the

i overflow tube, it indicates that the supply cock is out of order. If, on the other hand, water leaks past the rubber ball stopper and out

' through the outlet valve, the fault lies with the valve. In either case

' water will continue to run into the closet bowl after it has been

flushed. Tools.

Small monkey wrench, pliers, and a screw driver.

I Leaking Outlet Valve.

I If the rubber ball stopper does not fit tightly over the top of the

I outlet pipe, a defective ball, irregular seat, or bent lift wires may be

|| responsible.

I Defective Ball.

! If the ball is worn, is out of shape, or has lost its elasticity and

il fails to drop tightly into the hollowed seat, it should be replaced with

j a new one. Sometimes the ball may be merely covered with a slimy

i; coating, which can easily be wiped off. To replace the ball, empty

|j the tank and, if there is no supply shut-off, place a stick under the

ji

I lever arm of the copper-ball float to hold it up, thereby shutting

j; off the intake cock and preventing the tank from refilling. Then

1

1 unscrew the ball from the lower lift wire and attach a new ball

! of the same diameter as the old one.

i Irregular Stopper Seat.

I It may be found that the top of the outlet jupe is corroded or

I covered with grit in such a ’way as to make an irregular seat for the

stopper ball. This seat should be scraped and rubbed down with

I emery paper until it is smooth and forms a uniform bearing for the

: stopper.

Bent Lift Wires.

! k Sometimes the handle and lever fail to work smoothly, or the

I lift wires get out of plumb, causing the ball stopper to remain siisI pended, or to incompletely cover the opening. The lift wires should

be straightened and made plumb so that the ball will drop squarely

into the hollowed seat. The lower lift wire can be adjusted by

I

'' means of the adjustable guide arm, which is usually fastened to the

overflow pipe. Loosen thumbscrews to raise, lower, or rotate the

guide arm, until it is centered directly over the seat.

j Leaking Intake Cock

There are various wa}^s in which the intake cock might get out

of order. The seat washer on the bottom of the plunger may be

I worn or the seat itself may be irregular. On the other hand, the

I intake cock may be in good condition, but may not work properly

' because of faults in the copper ball float or its attachments.

Q
74 CAUE AND REPAIR OF THE HOUSE

How to Repair a Defective Copper Ball Float.

A leaky water-logged float holds the plunger up and does not

completely shut off the water. A small leak m the copper ball can

be soldered, but if the ball is badly corroded or worn it is achnsable

to buy a new one. If the rod that connects the float to the plunger

lever has become bent, it may prevent the float from reaching its full height, thus leaving the plunger up and allowing a leakage. In

this case the rod should be removed and carefully straightened.

Sometimes, because of faulty installation, the tank may not fill sufficiently or it may fill to overflowing. These difficulties may

be corrected without disturbing the supply cock by bending the rod

attached to the copper float upward or downward. If bent upward,

the water will rise higher in the tank, and if downward, the water

will not rise so high.

To Replace Washer on Plunger of Intake Cock.

Shut off the water by means of the shut-off valve, which is usually

located below the flush tank, and drain and bail out the tank. Unscrew the two thumbscrews to release the plunger. Remove the

old washer, which is held in place by a nut and brass ring cap, and

replace if with a new soft-rubber or leather washer. The brass ring

cap, into which the washer fits, may be corroded and may therefore

break while being removed, in which case a new ring should be

substituted. See whether the seat upon which the plunger rests

is free from nicks and grit. If not, it shrould be smoothed off.

7. HOW TO CORRECT FAULTY ACTION IN A WATER-CLOSET

FLUSH VALVE

In some houses, especially those built during recent years, a flush

valve instead of a tank is used to flush the water-closet bowl. There

are several kinds of flush valves on the market, but the adjustments

required are somewhat alike. A common tyi>e shown in Figure

will therefore be used as an exani])le.

In this type the rubber diaphragm A-3(f-A separates the valve

into an upper and lower chamber, with the })ressnre the same on

both sides of the diaphargm, equalized by the by-pass ^1-^T The

slightest touch of handle in any direction j)ushes in plunger

B-8-A^ which tilts auxiliary valve A-IO-A, i-eleasing the pressure

in the upper chamber. Then the pressure below raises the entire

working parts (auxiliary valve A-W-A. disk A-16-A, diaphragm

A-'BG-A^ and guide A-13) allowing the water which flushes the bowl

to go down through the barrel of the valve. AVhile this is occurring,

a small amount passes up through by-pass A-2.'^ and gradually fills the upper chamber and closes the valve.

The most noticeable difficulty is continuous running of the watei*

into the bowl after the handle has been pressed. In valves similar

to the type shown in Figure 22 (facing p. TO) this flow may result from stoppage of the by-pass or from a deposit of grit on auxiliary valve seat A-V7

.

If the by-pass is clogged, water can not pass

into the upper chamber to close the valve. If there is sediment on the

auxiliary valve seat, or if the seat is badlv worn the valve inav not

close tightly, allowing water to escape.

' The diaphragm
CAEE AND EEPAIR OF THE HOUSE 75

j may also deteriorate in time and need to be replaced. The auxiliary

I valve seat, or washer, and the diaphragm are made of rubber and are

j usually sold together, as it is generally advisable to replace both at

I one time.

I It is not often necessary to cut off the entire water supply while

j repairing a flush valve. The water-closet supply may be cut off

! by turning the large screw in the body of the flush valve, or by

I means of a shut-off valve in the supply pipe.

Figure 23.

Section of a typical mater-closet flush valve

A-3, Body only. A-^, Outside cover. A-o, Outlet coupling.

A—6j Handle coupling. A-11, Inside cover. Guide. A-15-A, Disk complete.

A—11, Auxiliary valve seat. A-Vd-A, Auxiliary valve.

A—2Jt, By-pass tube. A-26-A, Diaphragm.

A~30, Outlet gasket. A-31, Handle gasket. B—2, Porcelain grip. B-3, Handle shank.

B-5, Bushing.

BS-A, Plunger.

B-10, Handle spring. B-ll, Felt washer.

B-13, Packing nut. B-32-A, Metal handle complete. F-l, Outlet. To get at the parts mentioned, unscrew the outside cover being careful not to mar the nickel finish. The inside cover A-IJ

can then be lifted out together with the auxiliary valve complete,

A-19.

The by-pass A-^^ and corresponding hole in cover A-11 can be

cleaned by running a fine wire through the openings.

In replacing the rubber washer (auxiliary valve seat A-17)^ insert

a screw driver under the washer at the hole in the center and pull

the washer out. Then, with a spanner wrench, unscrew the disk ring

which holds the washer in place, and clean the surface of the seat on
76 CAEE AND EEPAIE OF THE HOUSE

which the washer rests. Insert new washer and replace disk ring,

screwing it down until it is firm, but not too tight.

When the disk A-lo-A is unscrewed, the diaphragm A-26-A can

be lifted out. In replacing the diaphragm, it should be laid in Avith

the cup doAAm and the copper gasket on the under side. It will be j noted that the doAA^els and tube, holding the diaphragm in position I are unequal^ spaced, to prevent its being placed in the valve upside H down. It may require a feAv trials to find the correct position. |i When this has been done, fasten the diaphragm by screwing disk

A-15-A into guide A~13. ' E If the above suggestions are not applicable in a particular case, || directions for repairing the valve in question may be obtained from jj the local dealer or from the manufacturer, 1

8. PROTECTING WATER PIPES AGAINST FREEZING I Water pipes AAdiich are exposed to freezing temperature should

be coA^ered in some manner, especially those located out of doors or ; in unheated spaces, as under porches or in outbuildings. Small

water pipes are more likely to freeze than waste or sewer pipes,

since the latter carry Avater usually warmed to some extent, which jj fioAvs off quickly leaving the pipe empty.

p Pipe Coverings. J For pipes located in an unheated cellar or garage, it is well tO:

j use a commercial covering made of a layer of hair felt and a layer

j of Avool felt. This generally comes in lengths of 3 feet, split on one

side to slip around the pipe, and is fastened by means of metal bands. I In severe climates, it is Aveil to apply tAvo thicknesses of this cover- , i ing and to break or stagger the joints and seams in order to make ^ a tight coA^ering. If exposed to the Aveather, this coA^ering should be

protected by a jacket of roofing paper or similar material, wired on^

Avith copper Avires, or it may be protected in another Avay by a water-’

tight box constructed around the pipe. :

' Homemade coverings can be made by wrapping the pipe first with

tar paper and then with felt, held in place by a jacket of canvas^

fastened by paste or wires and painted Avith Avaterproof paint. An-:

other covering is made by wrapping the pipe Avith old cloth, then

Avith layers of neAA spaper, and finishing up with strips of burlap,

j This type of covering should be at least 4 or 5 inches thick.

Underground Pipes. i When pipes are laid underground they should be at a sufficient depth to protect them from being damaged by heavy vehicles passj ing OA-er them and to elimiante danger of freezing. This depth de- : ‘ pends on latitude and local soil conditions. j

9. THAWING OUT FROZEN PIPES

^ If a water pipe becomes frozen, it should be attended to promptly ' to avoid a possible biirscing of the pipe. In lead pipes a bulge in ’ the pipe Avill usually mark the defect, Avhereas in other metals a

'' bulge does not appear. =

i
CAEE AND EEPAIR OF THE HOUSE 77

Some form of heat must be applied to the pipe to melt the ice. In applying heat to water-supply pipes it is best fo work toward

the supply endj keeping a faucet open to know when flow starts. When thawing out a waste or sewer pipe, start at the lower end and

work upward, to allow the water to flow off as the ice is melted.

There are various ways of applying heat to the exterior of a frozen pipe. It may be in the formt of a direct flame, hot applications, or concentrated heat waves.

Direct Flame Heat.

A direct flame can be applied by means of a gasoline blowtorch

or a lighted candle, where there is no danger of burning adjoining

woodwork. The flame should be played along the pipe gradually,

to spread the heat.

Hot Applications.

Hot applications applied to a frozen pipe do not produce as quick

results as a direct flame, but they are much safer in that they lessen the possibility of bursting the pipe and eliminate the fire hazard.

One method frequently used is to wrap cloths around the pipe

and saturate them with boiling water; or boiling-hot water can be

applied directly to the pipe. Another method for applying heat is that of using heated flatirons or bricks.

Concentrated Heat Waves.

Heat may be conveyed along a pipe by setting a lighted lamp

or oil stove near or under it. A V-shaped piece of tin, placed back

of the pipe and opposite the heater, will reflect the heat to the pipe

and serve to protect adjoining woodwork.

Heat Supplied Internally to Frozen Drainpipes.

Frozen traps, waste pipes, drains, and sewer pipes may frequently

be opened by the internal application of heat given off by boiling

I water poured into them through the fixture opening or trap, as the

case may be. If the frozen section is beyond the trap it may be advisable to remove the trap and pour the mixture into the pipe.

10. CLEANING OUT TRAPS AND WASTE PIPES

Plumbing fixtures from which waste water is discharged are furnished with traps designed to retain enough water to form a seal against gases and bad odors entering the house from the drain.

As a general rule they cause little trouble, but occasionally they may

become stopped up with accumulations of hardened grease and dirt

Iji and require cleaning out.

I Signs and Causes of Stoppage.

|, : When waste water gurgles and seeps away slowly from a sink,

I washbowl or bathtub, or backs up in the water-closet bowl, it indi- cates that there is foreign matter somewhere in the waste line re- tarding the flow of v/ater. For example, it may be that the trap

j on the kitchen sink is filled with hardened grease and settlings or

1 that the waste pipe beyond the trap is clogged, either in the same

I way or by some more solid object lodged in it. Water-closet drains

30292 °—31—

6

'i
78 CAPvE AND REPAIR OF THE HOUSE '

are often clogged by toilet articles or other objects, which have been

accidentally dropped into the l)owl, or by cloth or heavy paper.

Types of Traps.

The TJ-hend traj).—The simplest type of trap is the U bend, which

may consist of a single or a double reverse bend in the outlet pipe

below the fixture. Most fixtures at present are equipped with either

the P or the S form, as the bends are designated. In the case of

water-closets, similar bends are cast in the vitreous material in the

lower portion of the bowl.

Some of the neAver types of traps are fitted with a screw clean-out

plug on the lower side of the bend. (See fig. 24.)

Brum and, hottle type traps.—These types may

sometimes be found attached to bathtubs or kitchen

sinks. They consist of a cylindrical-shaped metal

box or settling basin attached to the waste pipe,

haAung inlet and outlet openings. They are generally provided with a screw-cap cover, which can

be removed when cleaning is necessary.

Tools.

Monkey wrench, screw driver, stiff wire with

hook bend at one end, “ plumber’s friend ” (see

fig. 25), coil spring steel auger, small funnel, and

a galvanized Avater bucket.

Materials.

Caustic potash (potassium hydroxide) and hot

Avater, or a good commercial pipe-cleaning com- pound in which caustic potash predominates.

Cleaning a Fixture Drain Provided Avith a U-Bend Trap.

TJse of a “ plumheTs friend

T

—It is usually best

to try a “ plumber’s friend ” first on a clogged

waste line. This is the simplest method and is effective in most cases. A ‘‘ plumber’s friend ” is a stiff rubber

bell-shaped cup about 5 inches in diameter fastened by its top

to a broom stick. (See fig. 25.) The sink or bowl should be

partly filled with water and the cup placed over the mouth of the

fixture opening. Work the stick up and down several times Avith

considerable force with the cup held fast over the opening. The alter- nate compression and suction thus created will usually loosen the

simpler obstructions. The operation should be repeated until the

pipe is cleared. When water flows freely again, pour boiling water

through the fixture to further clear the waste line. The plumber’s

friend is equally effective in moving obstructions on water-closet

lines. Place the cup OA^er the outlet in the boAvl and force the handle up and doAvn until the passage is clear. Have sufficient water

in the bowl to cover the rubber cup of the plumber’s friend.

Opening and cleaning the trap . —If the plumber’s friend does not

produce the desired result, it is possible that the trap is clogged

Avith refuse which must be cleaned out. For cleaning purposes, a removable clean-out plug is sometimes proAuded in the lower side

Figure 2.5. —

A

plum h e r’’ s friend ”
BH15. Care and Repair of the House SUP AND

UNION JOINT

CL.EJNN-OUT

PUUO •

Figuee 24.—

a

“P” type trap, showing clean-out plug and joints

Figure 26.—Section through a water-closet bowl, showing

use of coil spring steel auger

CARE AND REPAIR OF THE HOUSE 79

of the U bend. Before opening the trap, place a bucket under it to catch the surplus water. Unscrew the plug with a wrench and

when the water has drained out, insert a bent wire into the trap

opening and pull out the grease and dirt which has accumulated

therein. If possible, brush the trap out well with a bottle brush,

and flush it by pouring boiling water into the fixture. If the washer,

or gasket, around the plug is broken it should be renewed before the

plug is replaced.

If a trap has no clean-out plug, remove the trap at the slip-andunion joint provided for that purpose and clean out the trap and

adjoining pipes with the wire hook and bottle brush, as previously

described.

Use of coil syring-steel auger. —In most cases the cleaning out of

the trap will solve the problem. However, there may be an obstruction in the pipe beyond the trap which is responsible for the

trouble, and it may be reached with a coil spring-steel auger, in- serted through the trap opening, and either pulled out or bored

through and forced out. The coil spring-steel auger is especially

effective in opening clogged water-closet traps, drains, and long sec- tions of waste pipe lines. (See fig. 26, facing p. 78.) This tool is used like an ordinary auger, but is best handled by two persons, one

to guide and keep the spring in line, and the other to turn the handle.

Cleaning Out a Drum or Bottle-Type Trap.

In a drum or bottle type trap the screw cap is fastened in either

the top or bottom, and may be removed when cleaning is required.

In some cases this cap is just as accessible as the plug on a U-bend

trap, but, when used in connection with bathtubs, the trap may be

placed below the level of the floor and covered by a metal plate,

which must first be removed before the cap is exposed. When the

cap has been taken off, the grease and dirt can be dug out with an

old spoon or stick and the trap and its openings washed out with

boiling water. The various methods recommended for cleaning out U-bend traps can be used with equal success on the drum or bottle trap.

The Use of Chemicals.

. " If the trap, waste line, water-closet, or drain can not be cleared

'and all efforts to dislodge the obstruction have failed, a strong soluition of caustic potash (potassium hydroxide) and hot water can be

i poured into the line through fixture opening in an effort to burn

^away the obstruction.

This chemical generates heat and eats its way through an ordinary

® stoppage. Upon coming in contact with grease it forms a soft soap

ji] which is readily soluble in cold water and quickly dissolves in hot

[ji water. The chemical is usually sold in stick form, and^ one pound

i dissolved in two or three quarts of hot water will be sufficient to treat the average case. ...

I The hands should be covered and the eyes guarded^ while mixing

lland handling or dissolving caustic potash, as it is a powerful

I chemical and may cause serious burns if proper care is not exeh’cised. jPut the. sticks into an old pail or similar vessel and slowly pour a

jlkettlefui of hot water over them, holding the kettle at arms length
80 CAEE AXD EEPAIR OF THE HOUSE

to avoid being splashed with the liquid. There is much sizzling

and sputtering while the water is being poured on. '

'

! First withdraw as much water from the trap as possible with a suction pump or siphon hose to avoid weakening the solution by its mixing with water in the trap. It is a good plan to pour the solution into the pipes at night and let it stand there until morning

to give it a good opportunity to work before finally flushing the , drain with boiling water. Most chemicals of this nature produce

no harmful effect on lead, iron, or brass, but are injurious to alumi- ! num, glazed earthenware, porcelain, and enameled iron. To prevent ’ contact with such surfaces it is advisable to pour the mixture slowly

j and directly into the pipe by means of a funnel. I If it is found that the obstruction is in the pipe beyond the trap,

and that the trap can be opened or removed, pour the mixture | directly into the pipe through a funnel, or if the mouth of the pipe ! is inaccessible by that means, force a piece of rubber tubing or hose ! into the pipe and attach the funnel to the upper end. ! To keep the drains in good working order it is well to flush them j occasionally with a smaller quantity of this mixture. If it is diffij cult to obtain caustic potash there are numerous prepared drain-pipe

solvents on the market at a reasonable price, the best of which | probably depend mainly on caustic potash for their grease-cutting J qualities. ! In flushing out drains, avoid the use of what is popularly known | as ‘‘ lye ” or any other preparation in which caustic soda (sodium | hydroxide) predominates. Upon coming in contact with grease such ! chemicals form a hard soap, which is dissolved with difficulty in

hot water and is practically insoluble in cold water. The same chemicals and methods of application prescribed for

cleaning out traps, Avaste lines, and drains may also be used to melt

obstructions of ice in frozen drainpipes.

It must be remembered that such chemicals should be used onU

in cleaning waste lines and traps and should never be placed in : water-supply pipes.

If All of the Preceding Methods Fail. In case the obstruction can not be located and removed by any of I the methods described above, it is best to call a plumber, as complicated pipe cutting and fitting may be invoh^ed.

11. HOW TO OPEN FLOOR DRAINS

Floor drains are found in bathroom, cellar, and garage floors n Avhere water, dirt, and oil accumulate and frequent flushing or washing of the floor is necessary. The ordinary type of drain consists of a metal boxlike cup attached to the end of the drain pipe and

covered with a strainer or grating. Just below the cup there often ^ i is a trap or bend in the pipe to catch particles which may pass |n i through the strainer and also to form a water seal against odors ( rising from the pipe. Where there is no separate trap the box ) ( itself is constructed so as to perform these functions. ’ j Causes of Clogging.

| J Floor SAA^eepings and particles washed into the drain may lodge

in the trap and, together Avitli grease and oil, gradually fill it up

jj
CARE AND REPAIR OF THE HOUSE 81

and block the flow of water. Sometimes the holes in the strainer

become clogged and prevent water from flowing into the drain.

Tools. Screw driver, monkey wrench, plumber’s friend, a small scoop or spoon-like instrument, a piece of stiff wire bent to form a hook at one end, and possibly a coil spring-steel auger with which to bore

out the pipe.

Materials.

For dissolving congealed grease masses and for an occasional

flushing out of the drain, caustic potash (potassium hydroxide)

and hot water are recommended.

Steps to be Taken.

Raise or remove the strainer or grating which covers the drain

box. Dig out the dirt with some ladlelike tool as far as it can be

reached, and then, with the hooked wire or coil spring-steel auger,

clean out the bend or trap. There may be a removable clean-out plug

above or below the trap to facilitate this work. When the drain

has been thus cleared, as much as possible, pour a pail or two of hot

water into the mouth of the pipe to wash out any remaining particles

To remove greasy material, which sticks to the sides of the pipe, or to dissolve an accumulated mass of such material, pour a hot solu- tion of caustic potash into the drain. Directions for the use of this

chemical are contained in section 10 of this chapter.

Before replacing the strainer, see that all of its holes are open,

and remove all dirt clinging to the underside.

If water seldom flows into the floor drain, the water seal may

evaporate and allow sewer gas and objectionable odors to enter the

building. To avoid this odor, it is advisable to pour a pail or two

of water into the drain occasionally to insure a permanent seal in the

trap.

12. CARE OF REFRIGERATOR DRAINS

A refrigerator or ice-box waste pipe should not be directly con- nected to the house plumbing system. If it is allowed to drip into -a floor drain, the drain should empty into an open sink, which is trapped like other fixtures, a down spout or rain-leader trap located

inside the building, or a cellar floor drain. In any case both ends

of the refrigerator waste line should be left open.

These precautions are necessary to prevent sewer gas or vermin

from entering the food compartments of the refrigerator. The slime

prevalent in refrigerator waste pipes would probably clog up the

plumbing waste pipe, if the pipes were directly connected.

If there is a floor drain under the refrigerator, it should be cleaned

frequently and the waste pipe flushed thoroughly with hot water to remove the slimy substance. Similarly, the refrigerator itself, in- cluding its drip pipe and trap, should be scoured and scalded out

occasionally to keep it clean and sanitary. The drip pipe and trap

are usually removable so that they may be easily cleaned. The trap,

when filled with water, prevents warm air and odors from entering

the refrigerator.
82 CAEE AND EEPAIR OF THE HOUSE

XII. PAINTING AND VARNISHING

1. GENERAL OBSERVATIONS

Painting and varnishing is a broad subject, and because it in- volves so many different kinds of materials and practices it will not

be possible to treat it fully in this publication. However, since such

work is necessary to a varying extent in the household, and as there

are many paint jobs that can be done satisfactorily by a person with

little or no experience, some of the fundamental principles of this

work will be discussed.

Much useful information will be found in the directions printed on the container labels and in booklets distributed by the manufacturers of paint materials. These instructions should be carefully

followed, since different materials usually require different treatments

to produce the best results.

2. QUALITY AND CARE OF MATERIALS

The quality of paint, varnish, and other materials to be used on

surfaces to preserve them or improve their appearance is of great

importance. It is also essential to have good brushes with which to apply the materials. Without good materials and tools no amount

of care or skill on the part of the worker will produce satisfactory

results. Paint Selection.

Where a large quantity of paint is required, considerable saving

may be effected by purchasing the necessary ingredients and mixing

the paint on the job. If, however, only a small amount is needed

and the amateur is not willing to risk mixing his own paint, it is better to buy it ready mixed. There are many high-grade paints on the market, and if the purchaser will buy one of these in the

original sealed container of the manufacturer he need have no fear

regarding the quality of such material.

Mixing.

Since paint is a mixture of solid and liquid components, it is important to mix thoroughly the contents of any container before

using any portion thereof. To do this, pour the greater portion of

the liquid contents of the can into a clean bucket somewhat larger

than the paint can. Then with a stiff paddle loosen the settled pigment in the original container and, with a lifting and beating motion,

mix thoroughly the material in that container. Stir the mixture

vigorously while slowly adding the liquid that was previously poured

off the top. Complete mixing by pouring the paint several times

back and forth from one container to the other. This process ,is called “ boxing.”

Straining.

Paints should be strained after they have been mixed, to remove

hard lumps and skin and to mix the ingredients more completely.

A piece of wire fly screen may be used for this purpose, or, better

still, a suitable strainer may be made by tying a double thickness of

cheesecloth over the top of an empty pail. Pour the paint slowly
CARE AND REPAIR, OF THE HOUSE 83

through the cloth, using a small brush to stir the paint in the cloth

pocket, until it all passes through.

Protection.

When not in use the paint container should be covered to prevent

evaporation of the liquid material.

3. SELECTION AND CARE OF BRUSHES

The importance of a good brush can not be overestimated. Besides

Avearing better than a poor one, it holds more paint, does not leak nor spatter, leaves a clean-cut edge, makes a more uniform finish,

nnd does not shed its bristles. Though brushes with bristles set in cement or vulcanized in rubber cost somewhat more than other varieties, the investment always

proves to be a wise one. The best advice that can be given is to buy

good brushes and take proper care of them.

Selection of Brushes.

The shape and size of the brushes to be selected depends both upon

the materials used and the tj^pes of surfaces to be treated. For

painting broad surfaces, flat brushes 4 inches wide with 4-inch

bristles are recommended for the unskilled. Such a brush is easy to handle, and with it surfaces may be coA^ered rapidly. With wide,

flat brushes, however, the paint can not be rubbed out so well as with a suitable round brush. For windoAV sashes and other narrow

surfaces a 1-inch oval brush with a chisel-shaped end is generally

used. Varnish brushes are also tapered at the end in order to per- mit the necessary even flowing on of the material. A very wide brush

is usually employed in applying Avhitewash or calcimine, since these

materials are spread lightly over the surface and are not rubbed in. Care of Brushes.

When a painting job is carried over from one day to the next, it

is generally sufficient to wrap the brushes in several thicknesses of

paper to keep them soft and pliable. If, however, a brush is not

to be used for several days, it should be well cleaned before laying

it away. One of the most satisfactory materials for washing a brush

is turpentine, but it is expensive, and kerosene can be used Avith almost equally good results. After removing as much paint as possible with one of these solvents, wash the brush thoroughly with

soap and warm water and shake all excessive moisture out before

hanging it up to dry, bristles down. After the brush is thoroughly

dry, wrap it in paper to protect it from dust, being careful not to bend the ends of the bristles. If much painting is being done the brushes may be left suspended

in the paint or in linseed oil to keep them in good condition. To

keep the oil from getting fatty, a little turpentine may be added

from time to time. The brush can be suspended by drilling a small hole through the handle near the top of the ferule or binding,

pushing a straight piece of Avire through the hole, and restmg the

1 ends of the wire on the edges of the pail or container. Some brushes

I are made with holes drilled for this purpose. The bristles of the

brush should be completely submerged in the liquid, but the ends
84 CARE AXD REPAIR OF THE HOUSE

should not touch the bottom of the container, as the weight tends

to bend or curl the ends of the bristles and ruin the brush.

In general a varnish brush may be suspended in the varnish in

which it is used and may be cleaned by washing it first with tur- pentine and then with warm water and soap. Brushes used with whitewash or calcimine should simply be washed

thoroughly in clean water and hung up, bristles down, to dry.

4. METHODS OF APPLYING AND BRUSHING

The paint should be worked well into the brush before it is used.

Dip the brush about 2 inches into the paint several times and scrape

it each time on the edge of a stick held over the paint pot. The

brush should not be dipped too deeply into the paint, as an over supply on the brush will spatter and run down over the handle.

When applying the paint, dip the brush and slap it against the

inside of the pot to remove excess paint.

Hold the brush lightly but firmly. Use a free and easy stroke, let- ting the wrist do most of the work. In applying the paint make

two or three quick, light strokes to transfer most of the paint to the

surface before it spatters. Then quickly spread the film to hide

the surface and follow up with uniform strokes to smooth it off. Do not brush the paint too much in an effort to obtain smoothness.

If the paint has partially set, this will roughen the surface and do more harm than good.

Exterior Application.

In exterior painting it is customary to start at the upper left- hand corner and work across the top to the opposite end. A con- venient width is covered at one time, and before stopping for the

day the belt should be completed to leave a straight line across the

house, usually at the bottom of a shingle or siding course. This

metliod may necessitate shifting the ladder more but will eliminate

vertical joints in the painting.

When near the end of the house, brush only from the end toward

the center, otherwise the paint will be scraped off on the corner of

the house and run down or make a thick film along the edge.

Interior Application.

For interior wall painting it is best to start in the upper left-hand corner and work from the ceiling down to the base, painting a strip a foot or two Avide. By painting a narrow strip the next striji can be

joined neatly before the first has set too much. An up-and-down |j motion is used, except in joining up two strips, wTere a slightly semi- |

circular motion is needed to Avork the strips together.

A good light, preferably sunlight, is essential in painting interior

wall surfaces, and this is especially true of ceilings Avhere it is diffi-

^ cult to obtain a smooth appearance.

5. EXTERIOR PAINTING

Outside painting should preferably be done in clear, moderately

warm weather (not beloAv 50° F.). Summer and fall are ideal seasons for painting. The Avood is generally in dry condition dur-
CARE AKD REPAIR OF THE HOUSE 85

ing these seasons. Paint should never be applied Avhile rain or snow is falling, nor while the wood is wet or damp'. Neither should

it be applied when rain threatens, if the surface to be painted is exposed.

Number of Coats—New Work.

On new work, at least three coats of paint are necessaiy to produce good results. The first or priming coat may be mixed rather

thin to spread more easily and to fill the pores in the surface ; the

second coat should form a solid color base for the third or finish

coat, which coat should be smooth and glossy.

It is important that each coat of paint be thoroughly dry before

another coat is applied.

Preparing the Surface—New Work.

On new buildings little preparation is required before the first or priming coat is put on. Before starting to paint, brush over the

surface with a dry brush or duster to remove all dust, and with a putty knife scrape off any particles of plaster or other material

which may have been splashed on the surface. Knots and other excessive sappy places in the wood should be brushed over with tur- pentine, orange shellac, solvent naphtha, or aluminum knot primer

to prevent the resin in such places from being drawn to the surface

by the sun and staining the paint.

The Priming Coat.

As the priming coat is the foundation for all future painting, it should be carefully applied with the best of materials. The use of

old left-over paint for this purpose is not recommended.

An excellent priming coat for new work can be made by mixing

100 pounds of pure white-lead paste with 4 gallons of pure raw

linseed oil, 2 gallons of pure turpentine, and 1 pint of liquid drier.

These quantities will make about 9 gallons of paint. If a smaller

amount is desired, the quantity of each ingredient should be reduced

proportionately. The priming coat should be brushed out well. If

possible, it is best to wait two or three weeks before applying the

second coat, to allow any moisture in the new wood to come to the

- surface and evaporate.

When the priming coat is dry, all nail holes and cracks in the

wood should be filled with putty so that the finished surface will

present a smooth appearance. Putty made from pure linseed oil .and genuine whiting is entirely satisfactory, but much commercial

putty contains adulterated linseed oil and is worthless. An excel- lent putty can be made by mixing dry whiting with lead in oil paste.. If putty is too stiff, it can be softened by adding a few drops

of linseed oil ; if it is too soft, it can be made stiffer by working

some dry whiting into it. Other Coats.

The second coat should dry with a

“ flat” (not gloss}^) appearance.

This effect is obtained by using less linseed oil. For exjinyole : l o 100 pounds of white-lead paste add IV2 gallons of raw linseed oil.

11/2 gallons of turpentine, and 1 pint of liquid drier. This formula

will make about 6 gallons of paint and the amount may be reduced.
86 CAEE AND EEPAIR OF THE HOUSE

as previously described. This coat should completely hide the grain

of the wood and present a more solid appearance than the priming

coat. If white-lead paint is to be used for the third, or finish coat, it should consist of white-lead paste, linseed oil, and small quantities

of liquid drier. For example: To 100 pounds of white-lead paste,

add 3 I/2 to 41/2 gallons of raw linseed oil, 1 pint of turpentine, and

1 pint of liquid drier. To get a surface, to which less dirt will adhere

10 to 25 per cent of zinc oxide may be added; that is, 10 to 25

pounds of zinc oxide per 100 pounds of white-lead paste, and 10

to 25 per cent more linseed oil, turpentine, and drier. All coats,

especially the finish coat, should be carefully applied to avoid brush

marks and marks caused by spattering of paint, which results from

using too much paint on the brush.

Ready-Mixed Paints.

When ready-mixed paints are used, it is well to have a white-lead

l^riming coat, but the ready mixed may be used for the first coat

as well as for body coats, after it is properly thinned. Ready-mixed

paint as received is generally intended for finish coats. The manufacturer’s labels frequently give directions for reducing the paint to proper consistency for the under coats. If no directions are given,

however, the paint may be thinned by adding linseed oil and tur- pentine, mixed in about the same proportions as recommended for

white-lead paint. No drier should be added to ready-mixed paints.

Number of Coats—Old Work.

The number of coats to be applied to old work depends on the

condition of the old paint. If it is in good condition, one coat applied after a thorough dusting may be sufficient. In many cases, not more than two coats will be required. If painting has been

neglected for several years and the house has a weather-beaten appearance, or if the paint is badly cracked or peeling, it may be

necessary to remove most of the old paint and apply three new coats. Preparing the Surface—Old Work.

The amount of work necessary to prepare a surface for repainting

depends largely upon its condition. If the house has been painted

at proper intervals and the surface is in good condition, a simple

dusting of the surface just ahead of the painting may be all that is necessary. Nail holes or cracks in the wood should be filled with

putty after the first coat is applied, as described for new work.

If the old paint is blistered, cracked, or peeling in places, it should be removed and the surface sandpapered until it is smooth

and then dusted before new paint is put on. If there are any bare

spots they should be touched up with a priming coat in order to obtain an even appearance.

Paint blisters can be removed with a putty knife or broad knife

scraper and a wire brush. Some of the cracked and scaling paint

may be removed in the same manner, but most of it may require

other treatment. Coarse sandpaper is also an efficient remover of

old paint. It is easiest handled when tacked to a flat block of

wood. Probably the most efficient, though expensive, method of

removing oil paint is burning it with a gasoline blowtorch. This
CARE AND REPAIR OF THE HOUSE 87

burning causes the film to soften so that it can be scraped off easily.

This method, however, can be used only on flat surfaces and where

slight scorching of the wood is not objectionable. On account of

the fire risk, a blowtorch must be used with great care. Because

of this hazard, the work should ordinarily be done by an experienced

painter.

6. INTERIOR PAINTING

Paint on the interior of a house, being protected from the weather,

may be expected to last as a protective coating for a long period,

but light tints and brilliant colors may fade and become soiled and

require freshening up. Selection of Paint.

In selecting paints for interior woodwork, attention should be

given to hiding power, beauty of finish, and permanence of color,

pther than durability. In general, the same directions apply as in outside work. However, with white or light tints, the amount

of linseed oil should be reduced to avoid possible yellowing. If

white lead and oil paint is used, a small amount of Prussian blue,

dissolved in oil or turpentine and worked into the paint, will intensify its whiteness. A little varnish in the last coat will take the

place of linseed oil as a binder, and will also give a higher gloss to the surface, if it is desired.

Preparing the Surface.

The surface should be perfectly smooth and clean. If it is rough,

wrap and tack a piece of fine sandpaper around a flat block of wood

and go over the surface lightly. If the woodwork is not badly soiled,

it may be dusted and washed with soap and warm water. After

washing, remove the soap with clear water, and allow the surface

to dry thoroughly before applying paint. If the woodwork is greasy, wipe it with turpentine or gasoline.

Finishing.

A little extra effort to obtain a good finish is worth while in inte- rior painting. To obtain a smooth surface and improve the final appearance, each coat, when dry, should be rubbed lightly, avoiding

scratching, with fine sandpaper or with fine steel wool.

The natural beauty of the woodwork may be preserved, whenever

practicable, by varnishing. If the quality of the wood is such that

the use of varnish is not advisable, paint or enamel may be applied.

Stain is used on woods which are poorly matched for color and it is usually best to stain them their natural color, following the stain

with a coat of clear varnish.

7. PAINTING STUCCO OR CONCRETE

If it is desirable to change the color of a stucco or concrete surface, or to bring a repaired structure to a uniform color, it can be

accomplished by the application of either a cold-water wash or an

oil paint. It must be borne in mind, however, that once stucco or concrete surface is painted it becomes a painted surface, and as such,

requires the same periodical attention as do painted surfaces of

other materials.
88 CARE AND REPAIR OF THE HOUSE

Before painting, remove all loose mortar and repaint such places

and large cracks with fresh mortar, as explained in Chapter

section 2 and Chapter V, section 1. Cold-Water Washes.

Cement washes of practically any color can be prepared by using

the proper portions of gray and white cement, and light or dark

sand, with a small amount of mineral pigment. A mixture of 1 part white cement and 1 part yellow sand, all passing the No. 20

sieve, with hydrated lime to the amount of 5 per cent of the weight

of the cement will give a good, practically white color. In preparing the mix, the cement, lime, coloring material, and

sand should be properly proportioned and thoroughly mixed dry.

The dry batch should be large enough to do the entire job or at

least one side of the structure, in order to maintain uniformity of

color. Pour the dry material into a bucket containing clean water

and stir vigorously until it has the consistency of a stiff oil paint.

The mixture, while being applied, should be stirred from time to time with the brush. In refilling the container, clean out and discard all of the old wash, and use the same amount of clean dry

materials as was used in the previous batch.

The area to be coated should be thoroughly wetted just before

applying the wash, but there should be no free water on the surface.

Start at the top and one end of the wall and brush on the wash to the thinnest possible coat which will cover the surface. A thick

coating is liable to crack or peel. The work should be carried on

so that jointings come at natural breaks in the surface, and care should be taken to blend the adjoining areas together to prevent

lines showing between them.

After the coating has been applied it should be gently sprinkled

with water for several days. If it dries out before the cement has

attained its set, the wash will eventually dust off. The period of

sprinkling may be greatly shortened b}" dissolving 4 pounds of commercial calcium-chloride crystals in each 12 gallons of water used

in mixing the wash. This chemical assists in securing early set and

strength.

Oil Paints.

The following discussion of painting stucco, concrete, and brick

with oil paints is based on the assumption that it is desirable to completely hide the texture as well as the color of the material.

Although this practice is most common in painting such a structure,

a better plan is simply to color the cement or brick by applying a thin

paint that will wet and penetrate the surface. Use the minimum

number of coats to give the desired color, and do not attempt to build

up an impervious film on the surface, but tr}^ to leave the surface

porous, so that water getting into the structure back of the paint can evaporate without blistering the coating.

Before stucco, concrete, or similar materials are painted with oil paints, it is advisable to let them stand at least a year to allow them

to dry thoroughly and to give the lime in such materials sufficient time to age, so that it will not mar the painted surface. However,

if it is necessary to paint before sufficient time has elapsed, the free

lime in the material may be neutralized by washing the surface with
CAEE AND EEPAIR OF THE HOUSE 89

' a solution composed of 3 to 4 pounds of zinc-sulphate crystals dis- solved in a gallon of water. This wash may be applied with a calcimine brush or sprayer and then should be allowed to dry for

about a week before paint is applied. All fresh spots of mortar,

where repairs have been made, must be thoroughly dry and similarly

treated with zinc sulphate.

The surface can be painted in the same manner as wood, using

either a white-lead mixture, or mixture of white lead and zinc oxide.

The priming coat should contain some boiled linseed oil, and special

attention should be paid to this coat, since it must bind the loose

particles of cement on the surface and form a firm foundation for

the . other coats. After priming, small defects on the surface may

be puttied up if a smooth finish is desired.

Before painting stucco or concrete, which has been previously

painted, scrape off all loose paint, fill all cracks with mortar or white-lead putty, and treat all fresh mortar spots with zinc sul- phate.

8. PAINTING BRICK OR STONE SURFACES

It is generally better’ to leave brick or stone surfaces unpainted,

but in some cases painting may be advisable. The brick or stone should be dry and clean before paint is applied. If there are white

spots on the surface, known as efflorescence, they should be treated

as recommended in Chapter V, section 3. All loose mortar and

crumbling brick must be removed by thorough brushing, and joints

and cracks must be repointed as explained in Chapter IV, section 2. To neutralize the alkali in new mortar, treat with a solution of zinc

sulphate, as in cement painting.

Before painting very porous bricks or similar materials the first time, it is advisable to apply a coat of boiled linseed oil and turpentine (mixed half-and-half) to fill the pores and “kill the suction.”

These surfaces should not be painted in cold weather, and at least tAvo or three days of dry Aveather should precede the painting.

Three coats are usually sufficient. The first coat should be brushed

in Avell. When it is dry, the joints should be filled with a putty

made of linseed oil and whiting, and colored with the same pigments as those used in the paint. For the second coat, the pigment

should be mixed with 2 or 3 parts of raw linseed oil, 1 part tur- pentine, and a small amount of drier. This coat should be brushed

out Avell and uniformly. For a gloss finish, the pigments that give

the desired color, should be mixed with linseed oil and a little drier, and the paint should be spread on in such a way that it Avill not run. If a flat effect is desired, 3 parts of oil to 1 part of tur- pentine should be used for the second coat, and for the last coat

j the pigment, ground to a stiff paste in raAv linseed oil, should be

thinned with one-third liquid drier and two-thirds turpentine.

9. PAINTING ON PLASTER

I _ c

I Old walls, especially of kitchens, have a thin layer of grease and

! smoke upon them which, though it ma}^ not be perceptible, will pre- vent paint from adhering properly. Such walls should be washed

„ thoroughly with soap and water, to which a little ammonia may be
CAKE AND KEPAIK OF THE HOUSE 90

added, and finally rinsed with water. New plaster, being alkaline,

does not afford a good foundation for paint. To neutralize the free

lime in the plaster, treat the walls with a solution of 3 to 4 pounds

zinc sulphate in 1 gallon of water. This solution may be applied

with a calcimine brush or a paint sprayer and should be allowed to dry thoroughly before the walls are painted.

If the walls have been whitewashed, the old whitewash should all be removed with a cloth or sponge and hot water and the surface

treated with zinc-sulphate solution, as described above.

Cracks in the plaster should be well dampened and filled with a paste of plaster of Paris or patching plaster. Large cracks should

be first cut out carefully in such a way that they are slightly wider

at the bottom than at the surface.^^ When the plaster of Pans has

hardened, it should be scraped or sandpapered until it is smooth. It

is likely to be more porous than the plaster of the wall and should

therefore be given preliminary applications of the paint that is to be

used on the whole surface.

Before applying calcimine to an ordinary plaster wall, it is generally advisable to treat the wall with a coat of ‘‘ size ”

; this treatment

is also generally given to a wall before it is papered, and some

painters use size before applying a coat of paint. This latter usage

is not, however, considered good practice; a priming coat of paint

is preferred.

Glue size is made by soaking good glue in water over night, pouring off the excess of water, and dissolving the glue by pouring boiling

water over it slowly with constant stirring, finally thinning it with

hot water to a proper brush consistency.

First-class interior varnish thinned with turpentine and colored

with a little of the wall paint makes a good priming coat for plaster or wall board.

In painting plaster walls with ordinary oil j)aint, the same general

procedure may be followed as recommended for new woodwork,

though the priming coat is generally a little thinner; some authorities recommended boiled oil instead of raw oil and drier in the liquid

portion of the paint. The modern flat washable wall paints are cheap and very satisfactory. In applying them, the paint for the

priming coat should generally be thinned with about 1 quart of lin- seed oil to 1 gallon of paint. Subsequent coats should be applied as purchased, though in all cases, when using ready-mixed or prepared

paints, it is best to follow the manufacturer’s explicit directions

rather than any general instructions.

10. PAINTING METAL WORK, SUCH AS ROOFS AND GUTTERS

It is important that metal surfaces, such as roofs and gutters, be

kept well painted to prevent corrosion and to eliminate unnecessary

repairs.

Tin, galvanized iron, and other metals used for roofing, spouts,

garages, and other purposes, present difficulties in painting. Often

the paint does not stick well, probably owing to a thin film of grease

left on the material in the process of manufacture. Oil or grease

must be thoroughly removed by scrubbing with soa]> and water or

^ See Ch. VI, sec. 1, p. 18.
CARE AND REPAIR OF THE HOUSE 91

i with a cloth moistened with benzine. All loose rust must be cleaned

; off thoroughly with scrapers, wire brushes, or sandpaper, and

finally with dry scrubbing brushes. Galvanized iron and zinc, espej cially when new, may be made to hold paint, if it is first treated

with a solution containing 2 ounces of copper chloride, copper ace-

'I tate, or copper sulphate in one-half gallon of water. The solution

! should be prepared in a wooden on stoneware vessel, applied evenly

ij to the metal, and allowed to stand overnight. This treatment gives

I the paint a firm anchorage, but removes some of the surface metal,

especially on galvanized iron. Consequently, only a thin coating

I should be applied, 1 pint being enough to cover about 300 to 350

: square feet. For the priming coat on metal surfaces 30 to 35 pounds of pure

,j dry red lead should be mixed in 1 gallon of pure raw linseed oil

f by stirring the oil in gradually, and finally straining the mixture,

i if it becomes lumpy, through a wire gauze. Eed lead is also sold in

i paste form, which is easier to mix than the dry lead. It may be

thinned with linseed oil. No drier is usually needed with red lead,

, but 1 gill may be used if the job is a hurried one, and one-half pint

I of turpentine should be added if other coats of paint are to be ap-

' plied over it. The paint should be brushed out so thoroughly that

1 gallon will cover about 700 square feet. Red lead is expensive

and rather hard to appl}^, but, with the possible exception of Amerii can vermilion (scarlet lead chromate), which is even more ex- pensive, no better paint is known for adhering to metal work and

i protecting it. It may be followed by one or more coats of any kind

[ of paint desired.

If a cheaper treatment than those mentioned is necessary, red iron

[i oxide or metallic brown (to which some authorities recommend the

i I addition of 15 per cent of zinc oxide) mixed in linseed oil may be

|f used.

,j 11. VARNISHING

It is important that all materials and tools used be kept as free

I from dust as possible, since dust is harmful to good results in var-

|l nishing. Keep the rooms in which varnishing is being done free

I from dust. Keep the brushes clean and the varnish cans closed.

I Varnish should be applied in smooth thin coats and ample time

should be allowed between coats for thorough drying. Follow care- fully the instructions printed on the can labels or in booklets dis- tributed by varnish manufacturers.

j Interior Work.

Wood fUlers.—Open-grained woods such as oak, chestnut, mahogany, and walnut should be treated with a filler before being varnished. There are two classes of fillers on the market—paste fillers

j and liquid fillers.

I The paste fillers which are most commonly used should be thinned

with turpentine to brushing consistency before being used. The filler

I is first brushed across the grain and then with the grain. An old

I stiff brush may be used for this purpose, and if the filler sets too

I quickly the surface may be wiped with turpentine. After the filler

I has set for about a half hour wipe across the grain with excelsior

to remove the excess. Curled hair or burlap may be used instead of
CAEE AIv^D BEPAIR OB THE HOUSE 92

excelsior for this purpose. Some liquid fillers are intended for use on open-o’rained woods, but most are intended foi use on close-

| gained woods, and are applied by simply brushing them on. Some n authorities recommend ordinary shellac in alcohol as a liquid tiller. i Applying the Varnish. 1 The surface should be allowed to dry a day or two after a filler I has been used, before the first coat of varnish is applied. The first coat should be allowed to dry from 5 to 10 days, after which time : it should be rubbed with curled hair or excelsior to remove the gloss.

The second coat is then applied and treated similply, or rubbed ! with fine sandpaper or glass paper. If a first-class job with a gloss

finish is desired, the next to last coat should be well rubbed with

pumice and water before applying the finishing coat. The final j coat (preferably the fourth coat) may be left with the natural gloss, , or rubbed with pumice and water, if a dull or flat finish is desired.

Some manufacturers now make varnishes which dry with a flat I finish. Shellac.

Shellac is often used as an interior finish, especially where it is desired to retain the natural color of the wood. It should not, however, be used for exterior work. Nor should it be used where it will ; become hot, as near a fireplace, since it is likely to blister.

^ Shellac should be applied in thin coats and given ample time to ^ dry. The first two coats may be applied six hours apart, and ttvo days should be allowed between additional coats. It does not re-

| quire rubbing, except, perhaps, after every third or fourth coat. Exterior Work. ' No filler is used in exterior work, since it is apt to be forced out

of the wood by direct sunlight. All surfaces exposed to the sun, such

as window^ sashes, sills, and inside blinds, are considered as outside

work. The material generally used is spar varnisli, the successive* coats being lightly sandpapered, except the last, which is usually left with the natural gloss. Exterior wmrk. especiall}^ if exposed to the

direct sunlight, will require varnishing annually, but good interior

varnishing wull last 15 to 20 years. XIII. ELECTRICITY

1. SOME PRECAUTIONS TO BE OBSERVED IN USING ELECTRICITY'*’

Electricity is one of the most conveniently applied forms of energ’3

^ for household uses. In addition to its great convenience and

adaptability for various purposes, it has the further important

advantage, when properly used, of increased safety over many of its predecessors. How^ever, there are possible serious hazards to both

life and property from electric waring and devices, if Avrongly in- stalled or if carelessly handled.

Do not touch or disturb any electric waring or appliances, except

such as are intended to be handled. In handling electrical devices.

19 For a more complete discussion of precautions necessary in the use of electricity and

other home conyeniences, see Bureau of Standards Circular'Xo. 75, Safety for the ITousebold, listed on p. 106 of this publication.
CAKE AND KEPAIK OF THE HOUSE 93

use the insulated handles provided. Never touch interior live metal

parts of sockets, plugs, or receptacles which are used to carry cur- rent without first cutting off the current at the main switch.

Never touch any part of an electric cord, or fixture, even though it

is apparently a nonconductor, with wet hands, or while aii}^ part

of the person is in water. In bathrooms, kitchens, laundries, basements, garages, or other rooms where floors may be damp, avoid

touching any metal part of lamp sockets, fixtures, or other electric

devices; do not touch am^ of these AAdiile also touching a water pipe,

plumbing fixture, radiator, stove, or heater. There is danger of

shock by the passage of electricity from an ungrounded electric fix- ture through the body to the water or grounded metal.

2. EXTENT TO WHICH HOME REPAIRS MAY SAFELY BE MADE

Only minor repairs to the electrical system and equipment of a house should be undertaken by the home repairman. These may

include such tasks as replacing a blown-out fuse, overhauling an elec- tric-bell system, or repairing broken appliance cords. He should

not attempt to disturb the permanent wiring or make extensions

thereto, even though he may be familiar with such work. Work of

this nature should be done by an experienced electrician in accord- ance with local regulations or the provisions of the latest edition

of the National Electrical Code.

3. HOW TO CUT OFF THE CURRENT

As in the case of the water supply, the main electrical supply may

be completely cut off where it enters the house system. The incoming

current is controlled hy means of a main switch, the location and

operation of which the occupants of the house should learn. The

switch is usually in a metal box near the meter and may be located

in the basement, a rear hail, or in some other out-of-way place. It may be either a knife switch inside the box or it may be operated

by means of a handle protruding from the side of the box. In opening a main switcli, especially the knife kind, care should be taken

not to touch bare metal parts.

In case of fire or other emergency, or when a house is to be left unoccupied for long periods, the main switch should be opened,

thereby cutting off the building from the source of electrical supply.

If it is not desirable to cut off the current from all of the circuits

at the same time, the current in any one circuit may be cut off by

removing the fuse plugs controlling it. Before removing a fuse

it is advisable to open the main switch, as it is dangerous to haiulle

fuses on line circuits. In modern installations there is one fuse

for each branch circuit, but in older work there may be two. Branch

circuit fuses may be in the cabinet with the switch, or this cabinet

may contain main fuses only, the fuses for branch circuits being in

a separate cabinet. In order to facilitate future repair Avork the

fuse holder should be labeled and a chart should be made shoAving

the rooms and outlets which the fuses control. To determine Avhich

circuits are controlled by the various fuses, let one person try the

30292°—31 7
94 CARE AND REPAIR OF THE HOUSE

lights throughout the house while another removes and replaces ' fuses. Every light which ‘‘goes out” when a certain fuse is re- moved is on the circuit controlled by that fuse. ^ Be sure that a line is “ dead ” before doing any work on it. The ' careful electrician would make sure of it by pulling the main switch i and removing the fuse plug controlling that particular circuit. j

t 4. REPLACING A FUSE PLUG .1

! The wires in each house circuit are intended to carry a certain load 1 of current and if overloaded may become heated and cause a fire. I To guard against this danger, the current passes through a safety 1 device known as a fuse. This consists of a small screw plug fitted J with a short length of metal having a low melting point. When [ more than the specified load is placed on the wire this metal strip [ promptly melts, breaking the circuit. This is commonly called

,

blowing out a fuse.” It is sometimes difficult to determine which

'

fuse has blown, but usually the mica “ window ” covering the front

of the plug is badly smoked, and upon closer examination, it will

be seen that the small metal piece inside the plug has burned out. | A blown-out fuse may be more easily located if a chart is made, | showing the outlets controlled by each fuse. The chart is especially I useful in case a fuse blows out at the inner base of the plug, without *j discoloring its “ window.” | The capacity of the fuse is usually marked on the metal rim ' around the face or on the metal contact end. This may be 6, 10,.* 15, and up to 30 amperes, depending on the normal loading capacity I of the circuit. The larger-rated fuses are generally used on the main

service wires and where electric ranges or electric water heaters are ij installed. As these units consume considerably more current than isH

normally used for lighting purposes, it is necessary that they be put ^ on special wiring, capable of carrying the greater load. All such

installations should be approved by the local electrical inspector. I It is well to have an extra supply of fuse plugs in or near the fuse

' box, for use in an emergency.

A 15-ampere fuse, which is generally used, will take care of two

electric appliances and a lighting circuit, but the wiring should be' of sufficient size to carry the current without overheating. Usually ' the wiring to wall outlets or floor plugs is designed to take care of * two or more appliances, in addition to the lamps on the circuit. Before replacing a fuse, it is well to open the main switch to avoid possible shock. The fuse should be replaced with one of the i same capacity. The use of fuses of higher rating would defeat the ; safety purpose for which they are intended. Since larger-rated fuses

will not blow out so readily, there is danger of fire if they are used,

especially if the wiring is defective. Pennies or similar devices

should never be used in place of fuses, because of the great fire hazard.

Overloading a circuit is a common source of domestic lighting

troubles. Electric irons, vacuum cleaners, toasters, and similar appliances add greatly to the load. If a toaster which uses 6 amperes

and an electric iron Avhich uses the same amount of current are simultaneously attached to a circuit designed to carry but 10

amperes, the fuse may blow.
CAKE AND REPAIR OF THE HOUSE 95

As a rule, all electrical appliances have a name plate attached to them on which the current rating is stated. The following list of

electrical appliances with their approximate watts and amperes

may be useful in determining the amount of current used and serve

as a guide to prevent overloading a circuit

Capacity of electrical appliances

Electrical appliance Approxi- mate watts

Approxi- mate amperes for no volts

Electrical appliance Approxi- mate watts

Approxi- mate amperes for no volts

Chafing dish __ . 550 5 Immersion heater- 300 3 Curling iron 25 M Pressing iron 550 ,5 Fan 40-60 Kettle 420 4 Fireless cooker . - 400 4 Mangle 950-1, 100 9-10

Grill 660 6 Percolatator. 400 4 Heater - 460-1, 000 4-9 Samovar, , _ , , 420 4 Heating pad 45 V2 Toaster 550 5 Hotplate -- - ---- 550 5 Waffle iron . , , , - _ 600 6

Motor-driven home appliances draw much less current than heating appliances. They are rated in horsepower, and 1 horsepower

is equal to 746 watts. An electric washing-machine motor develops

about one-quarter horsepower, a vacuum cleaner one-fifth, a dish

washer one-eighth, a refrigerator one-eighth, and a sewing machine

one-twelfth horsepower. Converted into watts and amperes, these

appliances range from about 190 watts to less than 70 watts, and

draw less than 2 amperes of current. Every branch circuit is good for at least 15 amperes, when appli- ances are attached at wall receptacles. Lighting fixtures employ

smaller wires, and lamp sockets should not have irons, toasters,

percolators, and similar heating devices attached to them. If there

are no other outlets, only one heating device (or motor-driven

device) should be operated from a lighting fixture at a time.

A short circuit will also cause a fuse to blow out. It may result from defective electrical equipment or a worn cord, which allows

Ihe wires to come in contact with each other. If, however, appli- ances and cords are in good condition and fuses continue to blow

out, the trouble is probably in the main wiring system, in which case an electrician should be called.

5. REPAIRING AN ELECTRIC DOORBELL

Electric doorbells may be operated by means of batteries consisting of dry or wet cells or by reduced house current. In homes

supplied with alternating electric current for lighting, the most

satisfactory scheme is to use the bell-ringing transformer, whose

primary winding is connected to the lighting circuit and the

secondary winding to the bell circuit. It provides the proper

voltage for operating a bell. Such transformers can not be used,

however, on farm lighting outfits, or storage batteries, sihce they

furnish direct current. Where a battery is used, the dry cells are usually preferred to wet cells, since replacement of the former is easier than maintenance of the latter. Since cells lose their efficiency
96 CAKE AND KEPAIR OF THE HOUSE

in time and require replacement or rejuvenating, it is well to install a transformer if possible, as it is inexpensive and requires no periodical attention. Transformers should be installed by an electrician.

There^ are several ways in which electric-bell systems, especially

those operated by batteries, may get out of order. If the bell has

been ringing weakly, a worn battery is usually responsible. The

battery usually consists of two or more wet or dry cells. Either

type of cell may be tested by connecting a short wire to one terminal

or binding post, and rubbing the loose end against the other termi- 1 nal. If the cell is run down there will be no sparks, or if sparks « do result, they will be weak. The exact rating of a battery may be

determined by means of a small clocklike battery tester or meter, ; which is inexpensive and handy to have around for testing other i batteries also, such as those used in radios. Dry cells are not ^ rechargeable and when they wear out, new ones must be purchased.

The type of wet-cell batteries ordinaril}^ used for bells may be l| recharged with a solution made by dissolving ammonium chloride, ! commonly known as sal ammoniac, in water. This chemical, which | has the appearance of salt, can be purchased at hardware or elec- : trical supply stores in packages containing a sufficient amount to i charge a cell. The contents of a package should be placed in each j cell jar and warm water added until the solution reaches the line ! marked on the glass. To prevent evaporation of the solution and | to keep the salt from crystalizing on the jar, a small amount of ^ mineral oil may be poured on the surface of the solution to form a i film. If the zinc electrode, which runs through the middle of the i cell, is badl}^ eaten away it should be replaced with a new one. ' If a test of the battery cells shows them to be strong, the trouble i may be due to a loose connection on the batter}^ the bell, or in the

push button. A broken circuit wire may be responsible for the

trouble, or perhaps the bell needs adjusting, or the push button j fails to make contact. In order to examine the connections in the push button, it is necessary either to unscrew it from the wall or to remove its outside

shell, depending upon the type of button. Sometimes the contact *' becomes dirty or corroded from exposure to the weather, in which

case the contact points should be cleaned with emery paper.

Examine the connections in the button and tighten an}^ which appear

to be loose. Do the same with the connections on the bell and

battery.

A cierangement of the bell parts sometimes occurs, but not fre- quently. Where it does, tightening the adjusting screw may be all that is necessary. This screw is located inside the bell box and may

need to be moved closer to or farther away from the spring. If

the spring is too stiff, bend it toward the coils a little. If the bell refuses to work after all of these adjustments have ; been made, look for a short circuit or broken wire in the system. A

short circuit seldom occurs, but a piece of metal carelessly placed ' across the lead wires on battery terminals, or a staple touching

both lead wires Avhere the insulation is bady worn, will create the ^ condition. This causes the current to return to the battery before .

' it reaches the bell mechanism. Worn places on the insulation should

be wrapped with friction tape.
CAEE AND KEPAIR OF THE HOUSE 97

I A broken wire is sometimes difficult to locate. Feel along the

wire and examine with particular care places where it is fastened

; with staples, or where there is a sharp bend in the wire. If the break can not be found in this way, tests will have to be made to locate

the seat of trouble. This may be done in either battery or trans- former systems by means of the spark test previously described. At

approximately the middle of the system, scrape some of the insula-

' tion from the two wires and with a small piece of wire make a

[short circuit by touching both bare wires with the ends of the small

'piece. (See fig. 27.) If sparks result, they indicate that the wires

j are not broken between that point and the battery, or transformer,

jj whichever is used, and that the trouble lies in the opposite direction

; or farther away from the battery. By putting the short-circuiting

i wire on different points of the line while moving away from the

I battery the break may soon be located. When no sparks appear,

Uhe break will be found between that point and the last point tested.

! If, however, there are no sparks at the first point tested, it indi-

'I cates that the wires are broken between that point and the battery,

I and the break may be found by making the spark test while moving

I toward the battery.

Figure 27. —Typical hell circuit

' When the system is tested between the bell and push button, and

|it is in order between those points, both s^^arks and the ringing of

(the bell will result. Sparks only will result when tests are made

between the battery and bell. When the break has been found, the wires should be spliced and

the joint covered with friction tape. All places where insulation has

been removed should be taped.

6. HOW TO SPLICE ELECTRIC WIRES

] Two pieces of wire can be joined together by splicing. If the

I wires to be joined are attached to a fixture or appliance they should

^be disconnected from the house system before the work is underttaken. A careful electrician always cuts off the house current before

(splicing wires which are a part of the house-wiring system.^®

I Remove the insulation for a length of about 3 inches from the

,l|end of each wire and scrape these portions bright with a knife or

ijpiece of sandpaper. Then bend the ends at right angles to the wires,

Jhook them together and twist each end tightly around the other wire

with pliers so that firm contact is made. (See fig. 28.)^ To prevent

fcorrosion and to obtain a good electrical contact the joint should be

(soldered. It should then be wrapped securely with rubber tape and

Ithen by a complete covering of friction tape. The rubber tape

See section 2 of this chapter, p. 93.
98 CARE AND REPAIR OF THE HOUSE

should be applied while the joint is still hot from soldering, so that ’ the rubber will become vulcanized. The friction tape should extend

at least one-half inch beyond the points where insulation was removed

and should be compressed firmly.

7. REPAIRING DAMAGED APPLIANCE CORDS

The cords by which electrical appliances are connected to a circuit * often cause trouble. In most cases this is due either to wear or to improper handling. A cord usually shows the first signs of wear

at the end where it is most frequently handled. If the cord is fre- quently twisted and bent sharply some of the small wires beneath

the covering may become broken. If they come in contact with adja-

| cent bare wires, a short circuit will result, requiring at least the ji replacement of blown-out fuses. If a wire breaks without coming in j| contact with the other wire the appliance will not work. The break ij

Figure 28.—Method of splicing electric wires

in this case may not be evident on the outside of the insulation.

Defective cords should either be promptly repaired or discarded. |; Proper Handling of Cords.

To avoid twisting the cord, if a screw plug is used, do not screw ^ the plug into the socket with the cord attached to the plug. If

possible, separate the screw half of the plug from the cap and screw - it into the socket. When this has been done, the prongs of the cap ^ may be inserted into the plug without twisting the cord. For future

convenience in attaching the cord, the threaded half of the plug I should be left in the socket, if possible.

Most of the modern receptacles are made to accommodate the i bayonet-type plug. As the name implies, this plug is equipped with

two bayonet like prongs, to be inserted into corresponding slots in

the receptacle. With this type of plug the cords are not subject

to twisting as they are in a screw plug.

When disconnecting an appliance do not pull on the cord, as this

strain may cause the wires to break or pull out of the cap. It is better to grasp the cap and pull it from the plug. It is now possible to olitain cords with handles attached to the cap, so that no

strain will be placed on the cord. ^ | If a cord becomes badly damaged it should be replaced with a new one. However, if the cord has merely broken near the plug end,

or has been pulled out of the plug, it can readily be repaired.
CARE AN"D REPAIR OF THE HOUSE 99

Tools.

Small screw driver, pocketknife, pair of old shears, and a pair

of pliers.

Materials.

Electrician’s so-called friction tape.

How Repairs Are Made.

The first step is to loosen the screws inside the plug cap and remove any short pieces of wire which may be attached to the screws. (See fig. 29.) Then clip the end of the cord and push it through

the hole in the cap from the rounded side. Next, split and remove

the outside braid of the cord for about 1 inch from the end, which

will expose the two separately covered wires within. Then carefully remove the insulation from these wires and scrape them until bright.

To relieve pulling strain on the individual wires, tie them together

in a knot intended to rest in the recessed part of the cap. (See fig. 29.) The knot portion should not have the insulation scraped off, and the knot should be wrapped with a small piece of friction tape.

Figure 29.—Details of an electinc cord plug

Twist the strands of each wire to keep them together, wind clockwise, one wire around each of the binding screws, and tighten the screws. The tightening of the screws should also tighten the wires around

them. Be sure there is no opportunity for bare wires to come in

contact with each other. If there is, remove the screws and shorten

the bare portions.

As a finishing touch to the job, snip off the loose ends of wire and

pull the cord until the knot and wires settle firmly inside the cap. New Cord—Type to be Used.

If a cord becomes badly worn, it should be replaced with a new

one. It is advisable to get a reinforced cord of a make approved by

the Underwriters’ Laboratories. A type S cord is recommended

j for use in a garage, or wherever it will be subjected to severe usage. XIV. MISCELLANEOUS

1. HOW TO STOP CREAKING OF FLOORS

c If the boards in a floor are not properly laid, or not well attached

to the joists or subfloor, thej^ will creak when walked upon.

The trouble may be due to improper nailing, warping of the boards

or floor joists, or faulty construction of the floor as a whole.
100 CARE AND REPAIR. OF THE PIOUSE

The boards in warping may have loosened or drawn out the nails or perhaps an insufficient number of nails were used in the first place.

If the finish boards Avere laid in a wet condition, or if the subfloor was damp when the finish floor was laid, shrinking and Av'arping of

the boards would follow.

Where the finished floor is laid in the same direction as the subfloor, the former may warp and cause creaking.

Again, the subfloor may have been omitted and the finish floor nailed directly to the floor joist. In such cases the joists themselves

may warp and not provide a level bearing for the flooring.

Making an Inspection.

If the basement is unceiled it Avill be easier to determine whether

the first floor is single or double and the location and direction of

floor joist can be noted if renailing is required.

The floor joists and bridging should be examined and the latter strengthened if necessary.

It is not easily determined Avhether there is single or double floor- ing on the second floor of a house. However, if the finished flooring runs in the same direction as that of the first floor, it may safely be

assumed that the same type of construction has been used in both

cases. Tools.

Claw hammer, nail set, flat-headed axe or maul, and a block of

wood.

Materials.

A small quantity of nails. For three-eighths inch thick dressed

and matched hardwood flooring, 3d (threepenny) wire finishing

nails are recommended. For similar flooring, thirteenth-sixteenths

inch thick, use 8d cut flooring nails, and for 1 j^-inch flooring use lOd cut flooring nails. For 1-inch common flooring use 8d floor brads.

Methods to be Used.

If the boards have lifted slightly from the joists, place a block

or board on the floor at that point and strike it with an axe or heavy

hammer to drive the flooring back into place. A piece of old carpet

or several thicknesses of paper should be placed imder the block

to avoid marring the floor. In case this does not produce the desired result, the dri\dng of a few nails around the loose point aauII probably draw the boards down

tight. Care should be taken not to bend the nails, and when the

heads are within a quarter of an inch of the floor, a nail set should

be used to drive the nail heads below the floor surface in order to

jirevent marking the floor Avith the hammer. The nail holes should

then be filled Avith putty or wood filler and finished in the' same

Avay as the floor. If the boards on the first floor can not be driven down by either

of these methods, it might be advisable to drive a thin strip of wood

betAveen the bottom of the flooring and the top of the joist, or to

nail a cleat of wood to the side of the joist sufficiently high to support the flooring and eliminate the play. This nailing can be done

from the basement.
CARE AND REPAIR OF THE HOUSE 101

2. RELIEVING A STICKING DRAWER

Damp weather often causes drawers to stick and overloading of

drawers sometimes makes them warp and bind.

The wood in the drawer and in the adjoining partitions swells as

a result of absorbing moisture. The paint or varnish may also be- come soft and sticky during prolonged wet spells. Some woods also become warped, and overloading of drawers makes them difficult to open.

Tools.

Plane.

Materials.

Small quantity of paraffin.

Kemove the drawer and lay it on a work bench or on the floor and plane the bottom edges or the sides until the drawer slides in and

out readily. Never plane the top edges, as this would spoil the

appearance when the drawer is open. Then apply paraffin to the

runways and to the bottom edges of the drawer to make it run

smoothly.

For sawing molding, weather strips, bridging strips, or smallsized lumber where diagonal ends are desired, the best and quickest

work is done with a miter box. The ordinary miter box is a 3-sided, or trough-shaped box, having both ends open, and with slits cut down through the sides to guide the saw. (See fig. 30.)

There are many kinds and grades of adjustable metal boxes on

the market, which are desirable, but for occasional use in home re- pairs, a homemade wooden box will prove satisfactory and is^quickiy

and easily made.

As the most frequent angle cut is 45°, and as a square-end cut,

especially in molding, is more accurately made by use of a miter

box, it may be well to describe the making of one of these cuts.

Figuee 30. —A homemade miter hooB

3. HOW TO MAKE A MITER BOX
102 CARE AND REPAIR OF THE HOUSE

If a job is encountered wliere many cuts of a certain angle are re- quired, it is advisable to make a special miter box for that particular

angle.

Tools.

Screw driver, saw, and steel square. Materials.

Three pieces of dressed lumber, consisting of one piece of 2 inches

by 6 inches by 2% feet long for the bottom and two pieces of 1 inch

by 8 inches by 2i/o feet long for the two sides, and about a dozen

and a half 2-inch wood screws. flaking the Box.

Scre^v the two side pieces to the edges of the bottom piece to form

a channel or 3-sided box, being careful to have the sides flush with

the bottom. It might be advisable to bore holes for the screws to avoid splitting the side pieces. Then, as shown in Figure 30, square

a line between B and across the top of the box near the middle,

marking the line on top of side pieces 1 and 2. Next measure from

point B along the outside edge of side 1, the same distance G as between the outside faces of the side pieces, and mark point A.

From point J., draw diagonal line AE. This diagonal line will be on a 45° angle drawn from one outside face to another. Each

end of the diagonal line AE should then be squared down the out- side face of each side, to form a perpendicular. Proceed in the same manner to lay out a second diagonal line BD in the opposite direction, to form an X with diagonal AE.

Before cutting through on the diagonal lines, be sure that there are two screws in each side between points A and B and Z> and E to fasten securely the two short side pieces thus formed. Saw carefully

through the two sides along the diagonal lines and down the perpendiculars until the top face of the bottom piece is reached.

Near one end cut a third line CE across the box, at right angles

to the sides and perpendicular to the bottom, to be used for cutting

off square ends. Screws should be placed close to this cut also, on both sides, to make the sides more rigid.

XV. CLOSING THE HOUSE

When a house is to be unoccupied for an extended period, especially during the winter, it should be inspected carefully before it is left, and precautions should be taken to guard against possible

damage during the absence of the family. Such damage might result from a leaky roof, burst water pipe or cracked fixture, defective

wiring, or other causes. Whenever a house is being closed there is always more or less haste to leave it. It is in this rush that things are often left in a disordered state. It is best to plan ahead and to go about such

preparations as are necessary in a systematic manner, to avoid con- fusion at the last minute and to insure that nothing important is being left undone.

The roof should be examined for possible leaks, and repairs should

be made, if necessary. Gutters and down spouts should be cleared

of leaves and rubbish to prevent overflow.
CARE AND REPAIR OP THE HOUSE 103

All rubbish should be gathered up and burned, particularly accu- mulations in the basement. Piles of paper, rags, shavings, and

similar discarded material sometimes cause fires by spontaneous combustion. It is perhaps needless to say that all matches should be put

in a glass, metal, or earthern container or removed from the premises,

and all oil, gasoline, and paint cans disposed of. Most fire insurance companies require the insured to obtain a vacancy permit ” before leaving a house unoccupied for an ex- tended period. The necessary requirements in this respect are usually outlined in the policy. A small additional premium may

be charged for granting this privilege.

Before the occupants leave the house, the refrigerator drain should

be cleaned out and the interior of the refrigerator should be cleaned

and aired. All perishable food should be disposed of, and preserves and jellies should be put in a place where they will be protected against excessive heat in summer and freezing in winter.

The water should be shut off, and such other precautions taken

in regard to the water system and heating system as are recom- mended in Chapter XI, sections 2 and 3. The electrical supply should also be cut off as described in Chapter XIII, section 3. This is a wise precaution to take, since fires are sometimes started by a short circuit caused by crossed bare wires

or other faults in the wiring system. It also provides protection

against damage caused by lightning passing through the house cir- (uit. The radio antenna should be grounded before it enters the

iiouse or a lightning arrester provided, to guard against damage

(o the set and possibly to the house.

The telephone service may be temporarily discontinued by notifying the telephone company. There is usually a reduced charge

during the period the telephone is out of service.

The gas company should be requested to shut off the gas supply,

to guard against possible damage resulting from a leak in a pipe

or fixture.

All doors and windows should be closed and locked and shades

drawn. If there are blinds or shutters on the house, they should be

- closed and locked as an extra bar against intruders and as a protection for the windows during heavy storms. The cellar doors

should be securely bolted.

It is often advisable to leave a key to the house with a neighbor

or at the nearest police station, so that entrance may be readily

I gained in case of an emergency. In some cities, wdiere police nre

notified that a house is to be left vacant, an officer on his regular

rounds makes an occasional inspection.

XVI. OTHER SOURCES OF INFORMATION

In addition to the suggestions contained in this publication, there are various sources of information concerning the care and repair

of the house which should be known to the home repair man.c Often the material dealer from whom purchases are made may be

consulted regarding the correct amounts and grades of materials rej quired for a specific job. In addition to his personal knowledge he

' may have printed instructions covering the use of the products
104 CAEE AND REPAIR OF THE HOUSE

which he handles. These instructions are prepared by the maniifacturers of the materials and are usually comprehensive and useful.

In addition to the assistance rendered by the manufacturers,

there are many national trade associations which retain a staff of

experts to make tests and recommend correct methods of using the

products which they represent. The results of these studies are usually published and distributed by the associations, and many of these

publications are in the form of booklets touching upon subjects particularly interesting to the small home owner, with illustrations,

plans, specifications, and detailed instructions for performing tasks

around the house. The names and addresses of some of these organizations together with the titles of a few of their publications, which

may be of interest to home owners, are shown in Chapter XVII.

In addition to their publications, man}^ of these associations have

established an information service for the benefit of the users of

their products and are glad to answer inquiries or decide questions

involving their properties and uses. Manual-training teachers and

friends who are experienced in repair work may also be consulted.

In any case, the inquirer should assure himself that the person consulted is competent to give such advice, and that the information

obtained is reliable. Sometimes it is found that one who is free to give advice is a good talker but a poor mechanic.

XVII. LIST OF PUBLISHED MATERIAL OF INTEREST

TO HOME OWNERS

Government publications after which a price is noted on the fol- lowing list may be obtained from the Superintendent of Documents,

Government Printing Office, Washington, D. C. Remittances should

be made in the form of postal money order, express money o-rder, or New York draft. Postage stamps or mutilated or foreign monej^

should not be sent. Currency is sent only at the sender’s risk. Government publications distributed free of charge may usually

be obtained from the department issuing them.

Publications prepared by trade associations may be procured by

addressing the association concerned.

In addition to the sources mentioned in this list, many universities

and colleges, through their engineering experiment stations and

agricultural extension divisions, publish pamphlets of interest to home owners. BRICK

United States Department of Commerce:

Bureau of Standards

Cause and Prevention of Kiln and Dry-House Scum and Efflores- cence of Face-Brick Walls. Teclmologic Paper No. 370 $0. 20

Ideal Wall Construction. Letter Circular No. 29 Free Recommended Minimum Requirements for Masonry Wall Construction. BH6 . 15 Recommended Minimum Requirements for Small Dwelling Construction. BHl .15 American Face Brick Association, 130 North Wells Street, Chicago, 111.

:

The Story of Brick Free Wet Walls and Efflorescence Free The Charm of Face Brick Homes Free How to Read Plans for Building a Home Free A Manual of Face Brick Construction . 50
CAEE AND EEPAIR OF THE HOUSE 105

The Common Brick Manufacturers’ Association of antee Title Buikling, Cleveland, Ohio:

Brick—How to Build and Estimate

Homes of Lasting Charm

Farm Homes of Brick

Skintied Brickwork

America; 2121 Guar-

$0. 25

.25

. 05

.15 CHIMNEYS AND FIREPLACES

United States Department of Agriculture

:

Chimneys and Fireplaces, How to Build Them. Farmers’ Bulletin No. 1230 05 Clay Products Association, 111 West Washington Street, Chicago 111.; How to Build a Safe Chimney Free. The Chimney Free. A Standard Ordinance for Chimney Construction Free. The Common Brick Manufacturers Association of America, 2121 Guarantee Title Building, Cleveland, Ohio

:

The Heart of the Home .25 Eastern Clay Products Association, 906 Colonial Building, Philadelphia, Pa.

:

Flues and Flue Linings with Related Data on Chimneys and Fire- places Free. National Association of Manufacturers of Heating and Cooking Appliances, 3440 A. I. U. Building, Columbus, Ohio

:

Extracts from Various Publications Respecting Chimneys, Drafts,

etc Free. National Board of Fire Underwriters, 85 John Street, New York, N. Y.

:

A Standard Ordinance for Chimney Constuction Free. CLAY PRODUCTS

Associated Tile Manufacturers (Inc,), 220 Graybar Building, 420 Lexington Avenue, New York, N. Y.

:

Beautiful Association Tiles Free. Basic Specification for Tilework and Related Documents Free. Enduring Beauty in Your Home through Keramic Tiles Free. Tiled Swimming Pools 1. 00 Clay Products Association, 111 West Washington Street, Chicago, 111.

;

Tentative Standards Free. Eastern Clay Products Association, 906 Colonial Building, Philadelphia, Pa.:Standards Free. CONCRETE

United States Department of Agriculture

:

Plain Concrete for Farm Use. Farmers’ Bulletin No. 1279 .05 Small Concrete Construction on the Farm. Farmers’ Bulletin No. 1480 .10 United States Department of Commerce

:

Bureau of Standards

Recommended Minimum Requirements for Masonry Wall Construction. BH6 • 15 Recommended Minimum Requirements for Small Dwelling Construction. BHl . 15 American Concrete Institute, 2970 West Grand Boulevard, Detroit, Mich.: Concrete Primer • 25 Portland Cement Association, 33 West Grand Avenue, Chicago, 111.

;

Foundation Walls and Basements of Concrete Free. Concrete Improvements Around the Home Free. Old Homes Made New Fi’^e. Permanent Farm Construction Free, Design and Control of Concrete Mixtures Free.
106 CAKE AND REPAIR OF THE HOUSE

ELECTRICAL

United States Department of Agriculture;

Electrical Light and Power in the Farm Home. Separate No. 799 $0. 05 United States Department of Commerce:

Bureau of Standards

Safety for the Household. Circular No. 75 . 40 Committee on the Relation of Electricity to Agriculture, 1120 Garland

Building, Chicago, 111.

:

Wiring the Farm for Light, Heat, and Power . 50 Copper and Brass Research Association, 25 Broadway, New York, N. Y.

:

Wiring and Rewiring to Modernize the Home Free. National Electric Light Association, 420 Lexington Avenue, New York,

N. Y.

:

More Power to the Home, a series of booklets Free.

1. Wiring the House.

2. Better Lighting.

3. Washing.

4. Ironing.

5. Many Motors Make Light Work.

6. Electric Range Cookery.

7. Cooking with Small Electrical Appliances.

8. Electric Refrigeration.

9. Electrical Household Devices, specifications for wiring in resi- dential structures. National Electrical Manufacturers Association, 420 Lexington Avenue,

New York, N. Y.

:

The National Code—Its Purpose and Development Free. FLOORS AND WALLS

United States Department of Agriculture

:

Floors and Floor Coverings. Farmers’ Bulletin No, 1219 Preventing Cracks in New Wood Floors. Leaflet No. 56 United States Department of Commerce:

Bureau of Standards

Report of Service Test on Concrete Floor Treatments. Letter Circular No. 139__

Rubber Floor Tile. Letter Circular No. 270 Scouring Powder for Floors. Circular No. 370

Associated Tile Manufacturers (Inc.), 220 Graybar Building, 420 Lexington Avenue, New York, N. Y.

:

Beautiful Association Tiles Enduring Beauty in Your Home

The Common Brick Manufacturer’s Association of America, 2121 Guarantee Title Building, Cleveland, Ohio

;

Are You Proud of Your Front Porch?

Maple Flooring Manufacturers’ Association, 332 South Michigan Avenue,

Chicago, 111.

:

New Floors for Old

Three Native Hardwoods of Sterling Worth

National Lumber Manufacturers Association, Transportation Building,

Washington, D. C.

:

Wood Floors National Slate Association, Drexel Building, Philadelphia, Pa.

:

The Charm of Slate Floors and Walks

Oak Flooring Manufacturers’ Association of the United States, 1812

Sterick Building, Memphis, Tenn.

:

The Story of Oak Floors Laying, Finishing, and Care of Oak Floors Oak over Old

Portland Cement Association, 33 West Grand Avenue, Chicago, 111.

:

Concrete Sidewalks

Concrete Floors for Residences

Southern Pine Association, New Orleans, La.

;

Beauty Plus Service in Floors

Structural Clay Tile Association, 1401 Engineering Building, Chicago, 111.

:

Structural Clay Tile Floor Data

.05

.05

Free.

Free. .05

Free. Free.

Free.

Free.

Free.

Free. Free.

Free. |j Free. |! Free.

|( Free. |
CARE AND REPAIR OF THE HOUSE 107

GAS

United States Department of Commerce : Bureau of Mines

Waste and correct Use of Natural Gas in the Home. Mines Technical Paper No. 257 ,$0. 05 Natural-Gas Manual for Home. Mines Technical Paper No. 325_ . 10 Bureau of Standards

How to Get Better Service with Less Natural Gas in Domestic

Gas Appliances. Circular No. 116 . 05 HEATING AND VENTILATING

United States Department of Agriculture

:

One-Register Furnaces. Farmers’ Bulletin No. 1174 .05 Operating Home Heating Plant. Farmers’ Bulletin No. 1194 .05 The Domestic Oil Burner. Department Circular No. 405 . 10 United States Department of Commerce

:

Bureau of Mines^

Saving Fuel in Heating a House. Mines Technical Paper

No. 97 . 05 Five Ways of Saving Fuel in Heating Houses. Mines Technical 4^ Paper No. 199' . 05 How to Improve the Hot-Air Furnace. Mines Technical Paper

No. 208 . 05 Why and How Coke Should be Used for Domestic Heating.

Mines Technical Paper No. 242 . 05 Bureau of Standards

Information on Heating and Ventilation. Letter Circular No. 110 Free. Domestic and Industrial Fuel Oils. CS12-29 . 05

List of Publications and Articles Relating to Home Heating

Problems. Letter Circular No. 284 Free. Public Health Service

Indoor Tropics : Injurious Effect of Overheating Dwellings,

Schools, etc. Supplement 2 to PH Reports . 05 The Natural Resources Intelligence Service, Department of the Interior,

Ottawa, Canada

:

Humidity in House Heating Free. American Gas Association, 420 Lexington Avenue, New York, N. Y.

:

House Heating (with gas) .50 American Oil Burner Association (Inc.), 342 Madison Avenue, New

York, N. Y.

:

Handbook of Domestic Oil Heating 3. 00

JNational Warm Air Heating Association, 3440 A. I. U. Building, Columbus, Ohio

:

Health and Comfort with Warm Air Free. Warm Air Pleating for Residences Free. The Standard Code Free. Trade Names of Furnaces Free. The Oil Heating Institute, 342 Madison Avenue, New York, N. Y.

:

Your Guide to Oil Heating Satisfaction Free.

Oil Heat and the Business of Living Free.

Oil Heat—A New Standard of Living Free. A Few Steps to Comfort Free. HOLLOW BUILDING TILE

United States Department of Commerce:

Bureau of Standards

Hollow Building Tile. R12

Recommended Minimum Requirements for Masonry Wall Construction. BH6

Recommended Minimum Requirements for Small Dwelling Construction. BHl
108 CAKE AND EEPAIE OF THE HOUSE

The Structural Clay Tile Association, 1400 Engineering Building, Chicago,

111.

:

Homes of Permanency Free. Structural Clay Tile Buildings for the Up-to-Date Farmer Free. Manual Free. Structural Clay Tile Handbook Free. HOUSEHOLD HELPS

United States Department of Agriculture ; Farm-Home Conveniences. Farmers’ Bulletin No. 927 $0. 05 House Cleaning Made Easier. Farmers’ Bulletin No. 1180 . 05 Methods and Equipment for Home Laundering. Farmers’ Bulletin No. 1497 .05 Convenient Kitchens. Farmers’ Bulletin No. 1513 . 05

Principles of Window Curtaining. Farmers’ Bulletin No. 1516 . 10 Kitchen Charts (Home Economics) per set .50 Well-Planned Kitchen. Department Circular No. 189 . 05 United States Department of Commerce:

Bureau of Standards

Measurements for the Household. Circular No. 55 . 45 Materials for the Household. Circular No. 70 . 50 Safety for the Household. Circular No. 75 . 40 Household Weights and Measures (card). M39 .05 Washing, Cleaning, and Polishing Materials. Circular No. 383 . 10 United States Treasury Department

:

Public Health Service

What to do in Case of Accident. Public Health Service Miscellaneous Publication No. 21 . 15 HOUSE PLANS

The following organizations issue house plans, floor plans, and

suggestions for small-house design. In addition to the organizations listed, many of the leading newspapers show floor plans,

pictures, and descriptions of houses. Some building and home

magazines have a similar service

:

Architects’ Small House Service Bureau, 1200 Second Avenue South, Minneapolis, Minn.

American Face Brick Association, 130 North Wells Street, Chicago, 111. Common Brick Manufacturers’ Association of America, 2121 Guarantee Title ^ Building, Cleveland, Ohio. Division of Agricultural Engineering, Department of Agriculture, Washington, D. C. Home Owners’ Institute, 441 Lexington Avenue, New York, N. Y. National Lumber Manufacturers’ Association, Transportation Building, Wash- : ington, D. C. Portland Cement Association, 33 West Grand Avenue, Chicago, 111. Southern Pine Association, Interstate Bank Building, New Orleans, La. i The Structural Clay Tile Association, 1400 Engineering Building, Chicago, 111. INSULATING AND SOUNDPROOFING . if United States Department of Commerce:

Bureau of Standards— - Thermal Insulation of Buildings. Circular No. 376 $0. 05|

Sound-Proof Partitions. Letter Circular No. 205 Free.i

Transmission of Sound Through Building Materials. S552 . 05*

Transmission of Sound Through Wall and Floor Structures. t RP48 . 10

Soundproofing of Apartment Houses. T337__ .05 National Committee on Wood Utilization

Wall Boards and Insulating Boards. (Apply to National Committee on Wood Utilization.) Free. The Natural Resources Intelligence Service, Department of the Interior,

Ottawa, Canada :

i Why You Should Insulate Your Home Free.
CARE AND REPAIR OF THE HOUSE 109

Associated Metal Lath Manufacturers (Inc.), 1821 Engineering Building.

Chicago, 111.

Partition Handbook (chapter 6—Sound Insulation)

LANDSCAPING

United States Department of Agriculture:

Lawn Soils and Lawns. Farmers’ Bulletin No. 494 Beautifying the Farmstead. Farmers’ Bulletin No. 1087 Planning the Farmstead. Farmers’ Bulletin No. 1132 Planting and Care of Street Trees. Farmers’ Bulletin No. 1209 LIME

National Lime Association, 927 Fifteenth Street NW., Washington, D. C.

Lime in Concrete

Outline of the Uses of Lime. Bulletin No. 251 1-2-9 Cold Weather Mortar PAINTING AND DECORATING

United States Department of Agriculture

Painting on the Farm. Farmers’ Bulletin No. 1452 United States Department of Commerce

Bureau of Standards

Paint and Varnish. Circular No. 69

Shingle Stains. Letter Circular No. 64 Painting Steam and Hot-Water Radiators. Letter Circular No. 263 American Paint and Varnish Manufacturers’ Association, 1002--1004 Public Ledger Building, Independence Square, Philadelphia, Pa.

Painting with Prepared Paint

Why Paint Peels

Institute of Paint and Varnish Research, 2201 New York Avenue NW.,

Washington, D. C.

The Durability of Exterior Paints on Wood Surfaces. Circular No.

361 Painting Stucco Surfaces. Circular No. 327 Causes of Paint Failure on Sidewalls. Circular No. 355

International Society of Master Painters and Decorators, 127 North

Jefferson Street, Peoria, 111.

Painting and Decorating Working Methods. (Theo Audel & Co., publishers, 65 West Twenty-third Street, New York. N. Y.)

National Lime Association, 927 Fifteenth Street NW., Washington, D. C.

Whitewash and Cold-Water Paint Save the Surface Campaign, 18 East Forty-first Street, New York, N. Y.

The Guide Book of Painting and Varnishing Save the Surface Magazine (monthly)

The Wallpaper Association of the United States, 10 East Fortieth Street. New York, N. Y.

How to Handle Wallpaper, by the Craftsmen Themselves

PLASTER AND STUCCO

United States Department of Commerce

Bureau of Standards

Wall Plaster—Its Ingredients, Preparation, and Properties. Circular No. 151 Stucco Investigations at the Bureau of Standards with Recommendations for Portland Cement Stucco Construction. Circular No. 311 Associated Metal Lath Manufacturers, 1821 Engineering Building, Chicago, 111.

: ^ Better Plastering for Modern Homes

Metal Lath News

Metal Lath Construction

Partition Handbook

1 Prices will be given upon request,

r 30292°—31 8

$1. 00

. 05 .15

.05

. 05

Free.

Free. Free.

.05

. 15

Free.

Free.

.25 .25

C)

C)

C)

2. 00

Free. .25

Free.

Free.

.15

.15

Free.

Free.

Free.

1. 06
no CARE AND REPAIR OP THE HOUSE

Gypsum Institute, 110 West Fortieth Street, New York, N. Y.

:

Brief on Gypsum Plaster Free. Gypsum—A Nou-Metallic Mineral Free. Gypsum Plaster Affords Fire Protection Free. Incombustible Lathing Material Free. National Lime Association, 927 Fifteenth Street, NW., Washington, D. C.

:

Outline of the Uses of Lime. Bulletin No. 251 Free. Portland Cement Association, 33 West Grand Avenue, Chicago, 111.

:

Plasterers’ Manual Free. Portland Cement Stucco Free. PLUMBING

United States Department of Agriculture:

Farm Plumbing. Farmers’ Bulletin oN. 1426 $0. 10 Simple Plumbing Repairs in the Home. Farmers’ Bulletin No. 1460_ . 05 United States Department of Commerce

:

Bureau of Standards

Recommended Minimum Requirements for Plumbing BH13 . 35 Copper and Brass Research Association, 25 Broadway, New York, N. Y. : A Real Home Pree, REFRIGERATION

United States Department of Commerce:

Bureau of Standards

Electric and Gas Refrigerators. Letter Circular No. 255 Free. The National Electric Light Association, 420 Lexington Avenue, New

York, N. Y.

:

Electric Refrigeration Free. ROOFING

United States Department of Commerce:

Bureau of Standards

Eaves Trough and Conductor Pipe. Research Paper No. 29 Roofing Ternes. Research Paper No. 30

Iron and Steel Roofing. Research Paper No. 78

Corrosion of Open Valley Flashings. Research Paper No. 123 Recommended Minimum Requirements for Small Dwelling construction. BHl

American Zinc Institute, 60 East Forty-second Street, New York, N. Y.

:

Zinc Workers’ Manual

Copper and Brass Research Association, 25 Broadway, New York, N. Y.

;

Real Roofings

Copper Roofings, a manual

Copper Flashings, a handbook

National Association of Flat Rolled Steel Manufacturers, Terminal

Tower Building, Cleveland, Ohio

:

How' to Lay Steel Roofing

Steel Roofing—Its Use and Application

How to Ground a Galvanized Roof Against Lightning

National Slate Association, Drexel Building, Philadelphia, Pa. : Slate Roofs

The Incomparable Beauty of Slate Roofs

Red Cedar Shingle Bureau, 2017 Conw'ay Building, Chicago. 111.

:

Reroofing with Red Cedar Shingles

.05

.05

.05 .10

. 15 1.50

Free,

Free. Free,

Free. Free.

Free.

1. 50

Free.

Free. SAND AND GRAVEL

National Sand and Gravel Association, IMunsev Building. Washington,

D. C.

:

Relation of Aggregates to Concrete. Bulletin No. 2 Representative Specifications for Different Uses of Sand and Gravel.

Bulletin No, 3 Tables of Quantities of Materials for Concrete. Bulletin No. 4

Free.

Free. Free.
CARE AND REPAIR OF THE HOUSE 111

SEWAGE DISPOSAL

United States Department of Agriculture:

^

' Sewage and Sewerage of Farm Homes. Farmers’ Bulletin No. 1227_ $0.10

Unitdd States Treasury Department: ' Public Health Service

Sanitary Privy; Its Purpose and Construction. PH Bulletin No. 37 .05 Safe Disposal of Human Excreta at Unsewered Homes. PH

Bulletin No. '68 . lo Sanitary Disposal of Sewage Through a Septic Tank. PH Reprint No. 625 , 10 Sewage Disposal for Suburban and Country Homes. Supplement 58 to PH reports . 10 Eastern Clay Products Association, 906 Colonial Building, Philadelphia, Pa.:Sewage Disposal for Farms and Suburban Homes Free. Portland Cement Association, 33 West Grand Avenue, Chicago, 111.: Safe Sewage Disposal for Farm and Suburban Homes Free. SMALL-DWELLING CONSTRUCTION

j United States Department of Commerce

:

Bureau of Standards

Recommended Minimum Requirements for Small Dwelling Construction. BHl . 15

i Recommended Minimum Requirements for Plumbing. BH13 . 35 Recommended Minimum Requirements for Masonry Wall ConI struction. BH6 . 15

! How to Own Your Home. BH4 . 05 Present Home Financing Methods. BH12 . 05

I Recent Trends in Small Dwelling Construction (in preparation).

I Architects’ Small House Service Bureau—Plan Service Described- Free. National Committee on Wood Utilization

How to Judge a House . 10 Light Frame House Construction (in preparation).

WATER

United States Department of Agriculture

:

Farmstead Water Supply. Farmers’ Bulletin No. 1448 . 10 United States Treasury Department:

, Public Health Service

Good Water for Farm Homes. Public Health Bulletin No. 70— .05 WOOD AND LUMBER

United States Department of Commerce

:

National Committee on Wood Utilization

Marketing of Short Length Lumber No. 1 . 10 End-matched Softwood Lumber and Its Uses. No. 2 .05 Grade Marking for the Consumer’s Protection. No. 4 . 05

j Seasoning, Handling, and Care of Lumber. (Consumer’s edi- tion). No. 5 *15

i| 1 You Can Make It, vol. 1 -10 You Can Make It, for camp and cottage, vol. 2 . 10 Wood Construction. McGraw-Hill Book Co. (700 page handj Treated Lumber—Its Uses and Economies —

[National Lumber Manufacturers’ Association, Transportation Building,

Washington, D. C.

:

House Framing Details c . 25

. Choosing the Materials for the Home

TTsp of TiiimliAT* rm "Mi a TTfiriTi Free. Free.

. The Cost of Comfort Free.

Free. Modom TTottia TTitpriorc! — Free.

1 Transformation : Prom an Old House to a New Home Free.
112 CAEE AXD EEPAIE OF THE HOUSE

California Redwood Association, 24 California Street, San Francisco,

Calif.

:

Redwood Mountain Cabins and Week-End Cottages Free. Redwood Home Plans by California Architects Free. Redwood for Better Farm Structures Free. California Redwood—Its Physical and Mechanical Properties in Comparison with Other Woods Free. California White and Sugar Pine Manufacturers’ Association, 600 Call Building, San Francisco, Calif.

:

Pine Homes Free. Some Dollar Sense about Timber on the Farm Free. Hardwood Manufacturers’ Institute, Bank of Commerce Building, Memphis, Tenn.

:

The Charm of Sovereign Wood, Vol. II Free. Northern Hemlock and Hardwood Manufacturers’ Association, Oshkosh,

Wis.

:

Beautiful Birch for Beautiful Woodwork Free. The Northern Pine Manufacturers’ Association, 1103 Lumber Exchange

Building, Minneapolis, Minn.

:

For Beauty—Permanence—Economj-—Build with White Pine Free. Southern Cypress Manufacturers’ Association, Jacksonville, Fla.

:

Money Saved for Builders Free. Money Saved for Farmers Free. A Versatile Wood for Interiors Free. Southern Pine Association, Interstate Bank Building, New Orleans, La.

:

Beauty Plus Service in Floors Free. Southern Pine Garages Free. Southern Pine Homes Free. West Coast Lumbermen’s Association, 364 Stuart Building, Seattle, Wash.

:

The Short Length House of West Coast Woods Free. Forever Homes from Forests Free. Prize Homes of West Coast Woods Free. Western Pine Manufacturers’ Association, 510-517 Yeon Building, Portland, Oreg.

:

Handy Facts About Inland Empire Lumber. Lath, and Woodwork Free. Construction Specification for Inland Empire Lumber Free. Bingo of Flathead—A Dog’s Story of Pondosa, the Pick o’ the Pines Free. Paneling Need Not Be Expensive Free. MISCELLANEOUS

United States Department of Agriculture

;

Preventing Damage by Termites or MTiite Ants. Farmers’ Bulletin No. 1472 $0. 05 Rammed Earth Walls for Buildings. Farmers’ Bulletin No. 1500 . 05

Protection of Buildings and Farm Proi>erty from Lightning. Farmers’ Bulletin No. 1512 . 10 Making Cellars Dry. Farmers’ Bulletin No. 1572 . 05

Protection of Log Cabins, Rustic Work, and Unseasoned Wood from

Injurious Insects. Farmers’ Bulletin No. 1582 . 05

Fire-Protective Construction on the Farm. Farmers’ Bulletin No. 1590 . 05 Farm Drainage. Farmers’ Bulletin No. 1606 . 05 United States Department of Commerce:

Bureau of Standards

Protection of Life and Property Against Lightning. Technologic Paper No. 56 . 35 i Screen Manufacturers’ Association of America, 462 East McMillan

Street, Cincinnati, Ohio

:

The Fine Art of Screening the Modern Home Free,

I
CARE AND REPAIR OF THE HOUSE 113

XVIII. GLOSSARY

Backhand molding: A separate molding around the outside edge of a window or door casing and fitted against the wall to provide a decorative finish. Beading: On window frames—a small molding.

Brads: Small thin nails with small headsi^ used to fasten small molding and

other thin pieces of material. Bridging: Pieces of wood or metal crisscrossed and securely fastened between

floor joists to stiffen the framing, distribute the load, and hold the members in their original position. Buttered joints: A thin mortar joint made by scraping a quantity of mortar with

the trowel on the edges of the brick and laying the brick with a thin mortar bed. Casing: The trim around a door or window opening.

Calk: To fill cracks, joints, and holes with a pliable material, such as elastic cement, mortar, putty, and oakum, to seal them against the passage of air and water. Conductor: A pipe to carry water from the roof gutters of a building to the ground.

Coping: The cap or top course of a wall, designed to shed water.

Countersink: To drive nail heads below a surface or make depressions for screw

heads, so that they will be below the surface of the wood in which they are

inserted. Course: A horizontal row of brick, stone, or other building units in a wall. The

term is also applicable to shingles, slates, and similar roofing materials. Dormer window: A vertical window projecting from a sloping roof, providing

light, ventilation, and additional headroom.

Down spout. See Conductor.

Drip cap: Molding along the top of a window casing on the exterior side to shed

water. Dry well: A pit or well dug in the ground and walled in to receive waste roof

N.ater. Elastic cement: A thick plastic-cement composition commonly used to waterproof

joints in flashing, roofing material, and for calking around the outside

of window and door frames. It adheres to practically all materials and

being elastic is not broken by slight movement of the joined surfaces.

Fire stopping: The filling of hollow spaces in dwelling construction at floor and

roof lines to retard the spread of fire. The material used for this purpose may consist of well-fitted board or plank strips, or of incombustible materials, such as brick and mortar, broken tile, block or plaster refuse mixed

with mortar, or gypsum, infusorial earth ( kieselguhr ) , or mineral wool,

properly secured in place.

Flashing: Sheet metal or other material so inserted over joints in roofs and walls

as to shed water ; used especially in roof valleys, around the base of chimneys, and along the top of window and door frames.

Furring: Strips of wood applied to a surface to make an even base for other

material, such as lath and plaster, and form an air space within the finished

wall. Gable: The vertical triangular portion of the end of a building extending from

the eaves line to the ridge or peak of the roof. Hinge leaf: One of the two main parts or sides of a hinge.

Joists: Timber placed on the edge and equally spaced to support the flooring, and

to which ceiling lathing is nailed. The ends of the joists are usually sup- ported by bearing walls, bearing partitions, or by girders.

Lap joint: A joint formed by lapping the edge of one piece of material over the edge of another.

Leader. See Conductor. . Load-bearing wall: A wall which supports any vertical load in addition to its own weight. ^ ^ Louver: Horizontal slats in a window arranged to exclude rain and allow’ the passage of air to ventilate attics and similar places. _

Miter joint: A joint formed by cutting two members at an angle and fitting them

together. Mortise: A pocket or slot cut in a piece of wood to receive a tenon. Oakum: Hemp fiber obtained by untwisting and picking out loosely the yarns or

old tarred hemp rope ; used for calking cracks, etc.
114 CARE AND EEPiUR OF THE HOUSE

Parapet wall: A low wall extending above the surface of a roof around the edges

or between two houses.

Plates: Timbers set singly or doubly at the top of the studs to support the ends

of roof rafters and attic floor joists. Point: To All and flnish carefully with mortar, cracks and joints in masonry

walls. Rabbeted: Joined by cutting a recess or groove in or near the edge of one piece

of material to receive the edge of another piece cut to fit therein.

Rafters: Single timbers placed on edge and equally spaced, which support the

roof deck and roofing material.

Rails and stiles: The horizontal and vertical pieces of a door surrounding the

panels, and into which the latter are fitted. Sash: The framing in which panes of glass are set in a glazed window.

Scratch coat: The first coat of plaster on a wall. Shim: A piece of material used to fill in or true up a space between two surfaces.

Sills: Timbers set on top of foundation walls on which rest the exterior wall

studs and first-floor joists. Spatter board or splash block: A fiat piece of material such as wood, stone, and

concrete, placed on the ground below the outlet of a down spout to spread the water and prevent ground washing.

Stool: The inside sill of a window frame.

Strike plate: The metal plate surrounding the opening in a door jamb where the

latch bolt enters. Studs: The uprights in either exterior walls or interior partitions to which

sheathing boards and lath and plaster are applied. Tenon: A projection, usualy of a rectangular cross section, at the end of a piece

of wood, to be inserted in a socket or mortise in another piece, to make

a joint. Turnbuckle: A threaded coupling between two rods, used to shorten or lengthen

the combined rods. Union joint: A special kind of pipe coupling designed to permit disconnection of two pipes without disturbing adjoining sections. XIX. CHECK LIST

These suggestions for possible repairs and improvements in the house and

its equipment may be helpful to those who are not familiar with the different parts of a house. The list may be used in taking an inventory; checking up

to see what repairs are needed. EXTERIOR

Foundation and Side Walls.

1. Masonry walls with large cracks or broken portions requiring filling.

2. Mortar joints or minor cracks requiring pointing.

3. Porous or leaky walls requiring damp proofing.

4. Leakage around eaves or tops of walls requiring repairs or coping.

5. Efflorescence or scum on walls requiring acid cleaning or special treatment.

6. Cracks, discoloration, or fallen-out portions of stucco walls requiring pointing, cleaning, or restuccoing.

7. Loose or decayed boards or open joints in frame siding requiring re- pairs or replacement.

8. Blistering, cracking, or peeling of painted surfaces requiring repainting.

9. Replacing wall surfaces with newer or more attractive materials.

10. Grading around foundation. Windows and Door Frames and Sash.

1. Window caps requiring new flashing or repairing over existing joints.

2. Holes or cracks around window frames requiring calking or repairing.

3. Broken glass panes requiring replacing.

4. Defects in putty around panes requiring reputtying or patching.

5. Windows needing washing.

6. Overhauling screens in readiness for next spring.

7. Need for storm doors and windows or painting and repairing existing ones.

8. Repairs to blinds and shutters.

9. Need for awnings or repairs to existing ones.

10. Loose or shabby balconies and railings requiring repairs or painting. Ij 11. Advisability of additional windows.
CARE AND REPAIR OF THE HOUSE 115

Roof, Flashing, Gutters, and Down Spouts.

1. Broken, loose, or missing shingles, slate, tile, or other material requiring

replacement or repairs.

2. Metal or roll roofing with cracks, open joints, or worn off coatings requiring application of waterproofing materials, painting, or replacing.

3. Rusted or defective fiashing requiring painting, repairs, or replacement.

4. Leaky gutters or conductor pipes requiring repainting or replacing.

5. Leakage around skylights requiring repainting of the frames, glazing,

flashing, or repairing.

6. Leakage around scuttles, trapdoors, or other roof openings, requiring flash- ing, painting, or repairs.

7. Defects in chimney requiring pointing or replacement of brick.

8. Need for chimney cap or chimney pots.

9. Ineffective draft may require lengthening the chimney or applying metal

hoods.

10. Adjustments or repairs to radio antenna, lightning arrestors, or weather

rane.

11. Providing splash blocks at outlet end of down spouts, or connecting down

spouts to drainage system. Porches and Steps.

1. Decayed column bases requiring repairing or renewal.

2. Broken, loose, or missing balusters requiring repairs or replacements.

3. Broken or loose railings needing repairs or strengthening.

4. Decayed, broken, or loose floor boards requiring repairs.

5. Decayed or inefficient floor supports needing replacements or strengthening.

6. Broken, loose, or worn steps requiring repairs.

7. Advisability of installing latticework to hide open spaces under porch.

8. Advisability of inclosing porches with glass or screening.

9. Need for floor paint or general repainting.

10. Open joints or cracks in masonry requiring pointing.

11. Broken or loose floor tile or other masonry material requiring repairs.

Garage.

1. Advisability of applying insulating material.

2. Repairs to roof, doors, and windows.

3. Advisability of laying concrete floors.

4. Advisability of installing pit for servicing of car.

5. Advisability of installing heating equipment.

6. Necessary painting. Grounds.

1.

Walks and driveways ; new, additional, and repaired.

, 2. Fences, trellises, and latticework requiring repairing or painting.

3. Weeds, brush, and tree stumps requiring removal.

4. General cleaning up of premises.

5. Advisability of additional landscaping.

INTERIOR

The Basement.

1. Large cracks or broken places in foundation walls requiring filling.

2. Smaller cracks or mortar joints in walls requiring pointing.

3. Dark walls and ceiling needing white coatings to brighten the basement.

4. Leaks through the walls or floor requiring waterproofing applications or provisions for drainage.

5. Cracks between wood sills and walls requiring calking.

6. Spaces between floor joists at the sills and holes around pipes requiring

fire stopping. . , 7. Floor joists sagging or warped, requiring additional support or bridging.

8. Basement floor badly cracked or disintegrated, requiring repairing or new

topping.

9. Need for partitions to provide special space.

10. Desirability of ceiling and wall coverings to obtain finished rooms.

11. Floor painting or treatments to improve appearance.

12. Shelves, closets, cupboards, bins, etc., for storage purposes.

13. Clean basement and put things in order.

14. Advisability of constructing basement garage.

1

1
116 CARE and repair OF THE HOUSE

Heating and Ventilation.

1. Clogged smoke pipes or flues requiring cleaning.

2. Boiler coils or baffles requiring cleaning.

3. Grates warped and broken requiring replacement.

4. Cracked tire box requiring repairs.

5. Boilers with cracks or leakages requiring repairs or new parts.

6. Cracks in chimney masonry requiring pointing.

7. Woodwork adjoining pipes and heating system requiring fire protection.

8. Coating on boilers requiring patching or recovering.

9. Heating pipes requiring covering or repairs to existing covering.

10. Advisability of installing automatic stokers, ash conveyors, or similar labor-saving devices.

11. Leaky radiator valves requiring repacking.

12. Installation of additional radiators if needed.

13. Proper painting of radiators to increase efficiency,

14. Need for radiator covers and radiator tops.

15. Installing thermostatic heat-control system.

16. Providing humidifiers for air conditioning.

17. Advisability of building a fireplace.

18. Putting in asli dump for fireplace.

19. Installation of additional room-heating device in existing fireplace.

20. Repairing or replacing of fireplace screens, andirons, and similar equip- ment.

21. Installation of gas or electric log or similar heating apparatus.

22. Repairs to hearth, fireback, dampers, etc. in fireplace.

23. Remodeling of mantle or fireplace front.

24. Installation of ventilating devices in kitchen.

25. Providing insulating material to walls or ceilings where possible.

Plumbing.

1. Clogged drains needing attention.

2. Leaky faucets requiring washers, tightening, or new parts.

3. Defective flush valves in water-closet requiring repairs or replacement.

4. Covering for water papers or other precautions to prevent freezing.

5. Installing refrigerator drainpipe and trap to replace pan.

6. Installing additional shut-off cocks or valves.

7. Installing water-heating equipment, water softeners, etc.

8. Replacing worn-out piping with more modern type.

9. Replacing old or worn-out fixtures with newer types.

10. Providing additional bathroom, or lavatory and toilet for convenience.

11. Providing toilet and shower in basement.

Lighting and Power.

1. Rewiring with modern system to reduce fire hazard.

2. Exposed wires requiring insulating.

3. Renewal of appliance cords.

4. Installation of additional convenience outlets, such as floor and base plugs.

5. Additional fuse plugs for fuse box.

6. Repairs to doorbells or buzzers.

7. Installing transformers for bells in place of batteries.

8. Additional bells for convenience. Doors and Windows.

1. Sticking doors or windows requiring refitting or repairs.

2. Doors out of plumb requiring refitting or new hardware.

3. Advisability of replacing wood panels with glass in doors.

4. Defective locks, chains, or bolts, requiring repair or replacement.

5. Purchasing extra keys for various locks.

6. Broken or defective window cords and pulleys needing replacement.

7. Replacing broken window latches or other window devices.

8. Cracks around window sash and doors requiring weather stripping.

Walls and Ceilings. 1. Cracks or holes in plaster requiring patching or replastering.

2. Installation of partitions, either temporary or permanent, to provide

additional rooms or closets.

3. Removal of partitions to afford additional space.
care and repair of the house 117

4. Replacing narrow doorways with plastered arches ‘ or similar larger

openings.

5. Refinishing or redecorating^—painting, papering, calcimining, etc. Floors.

1. Creaking floors requiring reiiailiiig, additional supports, or bridging to

stiffen joists.

2. Cleaning and refinishing.

3. Applying new flooring over old.

4. Repairing or replacing floor coverings.

5. Adjusting or replacing baseboard and molding moved out of position by

shrinking or settling.

6. Replacing or repairing broken tile. Stairs and Stairways.

1. Creaking stairs requiring attention.

2. Replacing worn-out treads on stairs.

3. Providing rubber or composition treads for slippery steps.

4. Rickety cellar stairs requiring additional supports or repairs.

5. Installing railing on cellar stairs to prevent accidents.

6. Transforming closed stairways into open stairways by removing one or more walls.

7. Replacing old posts and railings with modern types.

8. Installing disappearing stairs to attic. The Attic.

1. Need for insulation materials applied to walls, floor, or underside of roeif.

2. Installation of louvres or additional windows to provide ventilation.

3. Mortar joints in chimney requiring pointing.

4. Cracks between chimney and side walls requiring filling or covering.

5. Fire stopping between studs at floor line.

6. Application of wall and ceiling coverings to provide finished room.

7. Installation of partitions.

8. Applying flooring.

9. Clean attic and put things in order. Miscellaneous.

1. Need for additional closets, and lining existing ones.

2. Need for shelves, bookcases, and cupboards.

3. Advisability of providing clothes chute, telephone cabinet, and other

built-in conveniences.

INDEX

[See also list of published material of interest to liome owners, Chapter XVII] A Page

ji Appliances, capacity of 93, 94

jj Attic:

r Inspection of 4 Insulation for 55. 56

I

: Baseboards, inspection of 5

; Basement:

1 Ceiling 13, 14

! Cleaning 103

|! Dampness, causes of 7

I Draining J 7,8

! Fire protection 3, 14, 103

! Illumination 13

: Inspection of 3

i Insulating 14

i Making brighter by redecorating 11-13

! Partitions, putting in . 14, 15 Batteries, door-bell types 95-96

ij Bells, repairing electric door bell - 9.5-97 Bins, in basement 14-15

j Bricks:

I Damp proofing 20-21

Efflorescence, removing and preventing 17-18 Flashing against 25

I Leakage through 20 Protection of walls 10

I

‘ Brushes, paint, selection and care of 83 C

Calking, around window frames 49-51

; Ceiling, basement 13,14

i Cellar. See Basement. Cement:

Asbestos for insulating 59-60 Coating, method of applying 9

i.jj. Mortar, method of mixing 11

I I Repairing walls with. _ 10 I Roofing cement used in calking 22

I Chimneys:

I

^ Flashing 21 , 22

' Inspection of 5 Circuits, electric: Capacity of 95

I Overloading. . 94

i Short circuit in 9.5-96, 103 Cords:

1 Electric appliance, repairing '. 98-99

' Window 39-42 Closing the house 102

S

, I Cracks:

'1 Aroxmd chimneys 5

' Around window frames... . 4,49-51

1 In fire boxes or boilers....... 3

I In foundation walls 3, 10 11 In plaster 18-20 Map and shrinkage 18

I Structural 19 In stucco 4,15,16

i In roofs 4

I Method of filling up in plaster 90

I Method of filling up in exterior walls 10,16

I' Method of repairing in interior walls 18-20 D

1 Damp spots on walls 20-22, 54

ii Doors:

' Adjusting hinges ... 31-32

,1 Adjusting latch bolt 33-34

Doors—Continued. Page

Correcting rattling 34 Fitting keys to locks 35 Hinges and closing devices for 44 Inspection of 5 Installing storm doors 53-54 Placing glass in 34-35 Planing 31 Remedies for sticking 29 Repairing electric bell for 95-97 Screens. See Sci'eens. Too narrow 32,33 V'eather stripping. See Weather stripping. Down spouts: Care and replacement of 28, 29 Cleaning 28, 102 Connected with drain _ 7 Inspection of 5 Painting 28,90-91 Drains: Care of refrigerator drains 81 How to clean floor drains... 80, 81 Inspection of 3 Providing cellar drains 8 Shutting off opening to water system _ ___ 66 DT-awer, relieving sticking 101 E

Efflorescence: Method of removing

Precautions against Solution for removing

Electricity: Bell repairing

Batteries, bell. .. Capacity of appliances Capacity of fuses Caution in using Chart of wiring

Cords, appliance Extent of home repairs Fuse, replacing How to cut off current How to locate a broken wire Inspection of Overloading blows out fuse. Splicing wires Transformer, bell F

F,aucets: Com]>ression type 68 Fuller type 70 Ground-key type - 70 How to distinguish type 71 Repairing 67-71 Replacing washer in 69 Thumping noise 71-72 Fire protection: Around heating equipment 14 Fire stopping... 3,14 Removing causes of fire 102 Flashing: Around chimney. - - -C 21-22, 26 Inspection of 6 Methods of applving - - 25-28 Roof 22-24

Floors: Causes of creaking in 99-100 Inspection of •'* Method of repairing 99-100

17 17,18

17 95,97

96 94,95

94

92-93, 98-99

94 98-99

93 94-95

9397

119