REBUILD 

HEALTHY 

HOMES 

Guide to Post-disaster Restoration for a Safe and Healthy Home

www.hud.gov/healthyhomes

U.S. Department of Housing and Urban Development

Office of Lead Hazard Control and Healthy Homes

may 2015
Top 10 Tips 

for Rebuilding Healthy Homes

Remind yourself often to put people 

before property! Make safety your 

top priority (page 10).

Wear personal protective equipment 

(PPE), including protective clothing 

and a NIOSH-approved respirator, 

every time you set foot in a damaged 

or moldy building (pages 11 to 14).

Assess structural stability and 

hidden hazards before you enter. 

A professional inspection may be 

needed (pages 15 to 30).

Prepare a plan (supplies and methods), 

make a map (disposal and clean-up 

site layout), and review insurance policies and disaster assistance resources 

(pages 3 and 30 to 33).

Go slow when pumping out water, 

then act fast to dry out and remove 

mold. Copy and share the DIY Mold 

Removal Guidelines sheet with 

workers (pages 41 and 50 to 53).

Always remove wet insulation and 

foam padding, even if the surface 

looks dry and clean (pages 48 and 49).

Assume lead-based paint and asbestos

are in homes built before 1978 (unless 

verified not present). Be mindful that 

disturbing such materials increases 

the hazard (pages 24 to 28).

Control dust, capture debris and 

contain contaminants – with wet 

methods, drop cloths, debris bags, 

HEPA vacuums and workers trained 

in safe work practices (pages 25 to 28, 

39 and 40).

Check credentials and hire only 

licensed and insured contractors, 

Lead-Safe Certified Renovators, 

certified Asbestos professionals, 

Mold Remediation Contractors, Fire 

and Water Damage Restorers, and 

other professionals, depending on 

types of work needed (pages 33 to 35).

Restore for More than Before!

Install hazard-resistant materials, 

connectors and building systems. 

Include energy-saving and healthy 

home improvements (pages 53 to 64).

See Appendix for more sources of helpful information.
REBUILD 

HEALTHY 

HOMES 

Guide to Post-disaster Restoration for a Safe and Healthy Home

www.hud.gov/healthyhomes

When disaster strikes, you’re eager to restore your home and life quickly. So many things 

depend on being able to resume living in your home. Unfortunately, that eagerness often 

ends up putting property before people in the haste to get the work done as soon as possible.

This guide was developed to help homeowners, volunteers and other workers to restore 

damaged homes in a way that puts people first. It includes how-to methods, tips and 

improvement ideas for safe restoration that result in not just a livable dwelling, but 

a healthy home that offers even more than before. 

U.S. Department of Housing and Urban Development

Office of Lead Hazard Control and Healthy Homes

may 2015
Acknowledgments

This guide is published and provided by the

U.S. Department of Housing and Urban Development 

Office of Lead Hazard Control and Healthy Homes

to help households and volunteers restore safe and healthy homes after a natural disaster.

Prepared by

Atrium Environmental Health and Safety Services, LLC, Reston, VA

Primary author

Claudette Hanks Reichel, Ed.D.

Professor and Extension Housing Specialist

Director, LaHouse Resource Center

Louisiana State University Agricultural Center (LSU AgCenter) – Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service

This guide was enriched by the contributions and reviews of the following experts

whose input is much appreciated:

Content contributors

Kathleen Autilio, Graduate Assistant, LSU AgCenter – 

LaHouse Resource Center

Michael Goldschmidt, LEED AP BD+C, Extension 

Housing and Environmental Design Specialist, 

University of Missouri 

This guide expands upon and replaces the 2006 edition 

of Rebuild Healthy Homes: Safe Rehabilitation of 

Hurricane-Damaged Homes Student Guide, Prepared 

by Consolidated Safety Services (Fairfax, VA)

Reviewers

Katherine Allen, County Director, University of Florida 

Extension Service

Daniel O. Chute, CIH, CSP, Atrium Environmental 

Health and Safety Services

Warren Friedman, Ph.D., CIH, FAIHA, U.S. Department 

of Housing and Urban Development Office of Lead 

Hazard Control and Healthy Homes

Abby Hugill, U.S. Department of Housing and Urban 

Development Office of Lead Hazard Control and 

Healthy Homes

Carly Johnson, Atrium Environmental Health and 

Safety Services

Sarah Kirby, Associate Professor and Extension 

Housing Specialist, North Carolina State University 

Extension Service

Paul LaGrange, Extension Building Science Educator, 

LSU AgCenter and LaGrange Consulting

Glenn Ray, Extension Building Science Educator, LSU 

AgCenter and RTC of Louisiana, LLC 

William Robinson, Extension Building Science 

Educator, LSU AgCenter and Train to Build, Inc.

Clyde Kitt Rodkey, U.S. Department of Housing and 

Urban Development Office of Lead Hazard Control and 

Healthy Homes

Participants of focus groups

New Orleans, LA; Columbia, MO; and Reston, VA

Focus groups were facilitated by:

New Orleans, LA: Claudette Reichel, moderator; 

Jensen Killen and Lee Rouse

Columbia, MO: Michael Goldschmidt, moderator; 

Michael Lam and James Hopfenblatt

Reston, VA: Daniel Chute, moderator; Anna Varone 

(Reston Association), Carly Johnson

Design and illustrations

Sagetopia & John Rodgers

Mark Lindamood, Editor

Disclaimer

Mention of non-federal agencies or their websites does 

not imply HUD or federal government endorsement or 

approval of the organizations or their websites’ contents, 

nor of individuals, firms, or procedures or practices 

mentioned by or linked from the websites.

IV

Rebuild Healthy Homes

Acknowledgments
Table of Contents

Top 10 Tips for Rebuilding 

Healthy Homes II

Acknowledgments IV

Fair Housing Laws and Restoration VI

Guiding Goals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1

Disaster Damages 3

Types of Natural Hazards and 

Typical Damages to Homes 4

Floods 4

Hurricanes 5

Tornadoes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Hail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

Earthquakes 6

Wildfires 7

Winter Storms/Freezes. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7

Extreme Heat/Droughts 8

Tsunamis/Storm Surges/Levee Failures . . . . . . 8

Mudslides/Sinkholes/Debris Slides . . . . . . . . . 8

How-to Restoration Guide 

for a Healthy Home 9

Protect Yourself... First and Foremost 10

Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) . . . . . . . .11

Accident Prevention . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14

Assess Damages and Hazards 15

Assess Structural Stability . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15

Inspect for Creatures, 

Chemicals and Bio-Hazards 17

Inspect Utilities–Electrical, 

Gas and Water Supply 18

Inspect Heating, Ventilation, 

and Air-Conditioning (HVAC) System . . . . . 20

Assess Health Hazards 21

• Mold 21

• Lead in Paint, Dust and Soil . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24

• Asbestos 26

• Radon 28

Create a Work Plan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30

• Supplies and Materials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30

• Electricity 30

• Storage Areas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31

• Disposal 31

• Site Layout 31

• Selecting Qualified Contractors 33

Prepare the Work Site 35

Install Temporary Weather Barriers 35

Provide Basics 36

Take Precautions 36

Set Up a Clean-up Station 37

Set Up Containment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39

Clean-Out and Tear-Out 39

Removing Contents 41

• Furniture 42

• Appliances and Fixtures . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42

• Carpeting and Rugs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43

• Small Objects . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44

Gutting and Tear-Out (Demolition) . . . . . . . . 44

• Cabinets, Shelves, Doors, and Trims 45

• Ceilings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46

• Walls 46

• Floors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48

• Insulation 48

• Exterior Claddings 49

Clean and Decontaminate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50

Mold 50

Surface Cleaning and Treatment 50

Restore for More than Before 53

Resilient Home Improvements . . . . . . . . . . . .54

• Borate treatment of structural wood 54

• Flood-resistant features 54

• Wind- and hail-resistant improvements 56

• Earthquake resistant improvements . . . . . . . .58

• Wildfire protections 59

• Freeze/snow-tolerant upgrades 59

• Heat/drought management strategies 60

• Tsunamis/storm surge rebuilding 60

• Sinkholes/mudslides/falling debris and 

any catastrophe 60

V

Rebuild Healthy Homes

Table of Contents
Healthy Home Improvements 61

• Keep it Dry 61

• Keep it Clean 61

• Keep it Pest Free 61

• Keep it Safe 62

• Keep it Contaminant-Free 62

• Keep it Properly Ventilated . . . . . . . . . . . . . .63

• Keep It Maintained 64

• Keep it Comfortable 64

List of Sidebars

Disaster Assistance Resources 3

Dealing with Stress and Grief 4

Hurricane Damages by Strength Category . . . . . 5

Tornado Damages by Rating 6

Snow Load . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

If you rent your home... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9

Home Restoration Steps 10

Respirator Cautions 12

Collapse Warning Signs 15

Mold Myths . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23

Flooding and Mold Growth 23

Heat/Cold Precautions 37

Clean, Gray and Black Water 43

Shingle Wind Ratings 57

List of Illustrations

Illustration A – Personal Protective 

Equipment (PPE) 13

Illustration B – Structural Flaws 16

Illustration C – Shutting Off Utilities . . . . . . . . .19

Illustration D – Sample Site Layout 32

Illustration E – Clean-up, Health and 

Safety Station . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38

Illustration F – Creating a Containment Area 

Plastic Sheet Flap Seal 40

Appendices

Appendix 1 – Supplies and Materials . . . . . . . . 65

Appendix 2 – Glossary . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .67

Appendix 3 – For More Information... 71

Fair Housing Laws and Restoration

HUD enforces the Fair Housing Act and other federal laws that prohibit housing 

discrimination and the intimidation of people in their homes, apartment buildings, and 

condominium developments. Nearly all housing transactions are protected, including 

rental and sale of housing and the provision of mortgage loans. 

When a natural disaster strikes, emergency professionals and the general public need to 

know that they are entitled to equal access to housing opportunities and that the federal 

Fair Housing Act provides protection against unfair housing practices. Landlords who 

refuse to rent or sell homes to people on the basis of race, color, national origin, religion, 

sex, familial status, or disability are violating federal law. 

Since catastrophic events can happen at any time and any place, housing professionals 

have a responsibility to prepare communities and to ensure that equal housing 

opportunities are afforded to all.

VI

Rebuild Healthy Homes

Fair Housing Laws and Restoration
Guiding Goals

For a Healthy Home

Guiding Goals 

For a Healthy Home

T he link between health and housing is proven. Even a clean 

and beautiful home can have health hazards ranging from allergy and 

asthma triggers to disease-causing or deadly pollutants. 

A damaged home is likely to pose serious health risks, such as unsafe conditions, 

mold, asbestos, lead-based paint, polluted water, sewage and other contaminants. 

The wrong restoration methods can worsen, or even cause, some hazards. 

Everyone wants to live in a healthy home. With good information and a commitment to doing it 

right, you can safely repair and rebuild a healthy home after a natural disaster. To achieve that, 

you need to know, plan for, and apply the eight principles of healthy housing:

1. Be SAFE – Protect yourself and others from injury during and after restoration.

Injuries after the disaster is over – from chainsaw accidents, cuts, electrical shock, sprains 

and strains, falls, burns and other accidents – are all too common. Damaged buildings are 

dangerous. People are stressed and tired. Materials are in short supply. Clean-up and repair 

work is time consuming. You can overcome those challenges and avoid injuries with the 

preparations and tips in this guide.

2. Get it DRY – Dry out or remove wet materials as quickly as possible.

Dampness supports mold, bacteria, and pests, creating an unhealthy living space. A wet 

home needs special attention to avoid or correct a major mold problem. That’s why it’s so 

important to properly dry the home out as soon as possible and keep it dry.

3. Get it CLEAN – Remove debris, silt and grime with safe and effective cleaning methods.

It’s obvious that damage and debris must be cleaned out, but how to do it most effectively and 

safely is not so obvious. Damaged buildings can have hidden dangers and lingering health 

hazards. Special methods are needed to restore a truly clean and healthy home.

T

1

Rebuild Healthy Homes

Guiding Goals
4. Get it PEST-FREE – Exclude pests, using little or no toxic pesticides.

A damaged home can be vulnerable to invasion by unwelcome pests. You know that pests 

can spread disease, but did you know that insect and rodent droppings are a major trigger 

of allergies and asthma? Invading animals can also bring in ticks and fleas. Termites can 

damage your home.

 CAUTION! Solving one health hazard (pests) with another (toxic pesticides) isn’t your 

only option. Integrated pest management (IPM) uses knowledge about pest behavior 

and methods to control pests with the least possible hazard to people, property, and the 

environment. Home restoration is a prime opportunity to apply key IPM methods for 

keeping pests out of your home. 

5. Get it CONTAMINANT-FREE – Correctly remove and control the spread of indoor 

pollutants.

Property damage can expose hidden health hazards. Making matters worse, the repair 

process itself can release and greatly increase your exposure to indoor pollutants, such as: 

lead, asbestos, mold, sewage, other bio-hazards, toxic chemicals and fumes, dust, fiberglass, 

carbon monoxide, smoke, soot and radon, among others. Using this guide can help you 

reduce exposure to these pollutants.

6. Keep it PROPERLY VENTILATED – Exhaust bad air, bring in good air, control humidity.

Every home needs some fresh air ventilation to dilute indoor air pollutants that off-gas from 

products and people. Damaged heating and cooling equipment, debris, the clean-out process, 

and repair work can multiply the indoor air pollution load many times over. The consequence 

can even be deadly – but not if you know what to do. 

7. Make it easy to MAINTAIN – Restore for a more durable, easy-care home.

A well-maintained home prevents water leaks, decay, pest invasions – and reduces the 

expense and hassle of repairs. When Mother Nature damages your home, its restoration 

may create an opportunity to use better materials and methods that make your home more 

durable and easier to maintain.

8. Make it COMFORTABLE – Control your indoor climate.

When restoring your damaged home, include heating, cooling and other energy-efficiency 

improvements that make it affordable to stay warm in winter and cool in summer – even 

during power outages.

2

Rebuild Healthy Homes

Guiding Goals
Disaster

Damages

Disaster 

Damages

Before you return home or begin the restoration process, find the natural hazard below that applies to you. Review 

the types of damage that are common to that event to help you anticipate 

and better prepare. Some repairs may be beyond what you can tackle without 

professional services. Take time to plan for and gather supplies that may be 

hard to find in the disaster area. Explore resources and local organizations 

that may be available to help.

B

• • • DISASTER ASSISTANCE RESOURCES • • •

Homeowner's insurance and flood insurance are the 

primary financial resources for most homeowners. 

Review your policies and their limits before you begin 

recovery efforts. Contact your insurance company 

promptly to report your damages. Take photos of all 

damages to show the claims agent, but do not wait 

for the agent to visit your home before beginning 

clean-up and repairs. 

Note that homeowner's insurance does not cover flood 

damage, may have a higher deductible for wind damage 

than other perils, and may exclude mold or other types 

of damage. Flood insurance is made available by and 

claims are paid by the National Flood Insurance Program 

(learn more at www.FloodSmart.gov). Typically, there’s 

a 30-day waiting period from date of purchase before a 

flood policy goes into effect. That’s why it’s so important 

for a flood insurance policy to be obtained long before a 

hazard warning, and that it be maintained.

Following a Presidential Disaster Declaration, the Federal 

Emergency Management Agency (FEMA) helps state and 

local governments with recovery operations. Funding 

and other types of assistance are made available to 

residents whose property has been damaged and whose 

losses are not covered by insurance. Declared counties 

and disaster assistance information are available 

on the FEMA website at www.fema.gov and www.

DisasterAssistance.gov. Temporary Disaster Recovery 

Centers may be set up to assist applicants in person with 

information about FEMA or other disaster assistance 

programs and questions.

Some faith-based and charitable organizations provide 

financial assistance. Such assistance does not require 

a Presidential declaration of disaster, so it may be 

available in counties that were not declared. Contact 

the emergency management office in your county or 

state to find out what assistance is being offered.

3

Rebuild Healthy Homes

Disaster Damages
Keep in mind that finding damage to your home may be emotionally traumatic. Prepare yourself for 

the possibilities. Use these tips for dealing with stress and the grief you may experience. Locate service 

providers who are qualified and available to help.

Types of Natural Hazards and Typical Damages to Homes

FLOODS

Floods are the most common natural disaster, affecting more homes than any other type of 

disaster. Floods can cause many kinds of damage, including those below.

} Mold is the most prominent damage following a flood, and worsens over time. Mold is a 

hazard to both people and property. It grows on almost any material that stays wet more 

than about two days. The longer mold and wetness remain, the faster it spreads. 

} Rising floodwater is usually contaminated with sewage (containing disease-causing 

bacteria), chemicals and debris. Floods deposit these contaminants, and they may be 

absorbed into porous materials.

• • • D E A L I N G W I T H S T R E S S A N D G R I E F • • •

} Prepare yourself for the possibility that seeing 

your damaged home in person may hit you 

harder than seeing pictures or news reports 

before you return home.

} Limit your exposure to traumatic news 

coverage and social media about the disaster 

until you can handle it without a toll on your 

well-being. 

} Refocus your attention on positive things, and 

what you can do. Make a list and plan of action.

} Stay connected with family and friends. Try to 

resume as many personal routines as possible. 

Try to do something with others that you and 

they have enjoyed in the past.

} Don’t skip meals. Drink plenty of water and 

eat healthy meals. Avoid alcohol and other 

depressants. Stay on schedule with any doctorprescribed medications and procedures.

} Limit the time you spend working on-site each 

day and week. Take breaks off-site to de-stress. 

Get plenty of rest. 

} Know that recovery will take time. 

Expect hurdles.

} Help others, and accept help for yourself.

} Watch for signs of depression or despair in 

yourself and others. If they persist beyond the 

expected effects of fatigue, seek help from 

your doctor, a counselor or other mental health 

professional. According to the National Institute of 

Mental Health (www.nimh.nih.gov), symptoms 

of depression may include the following:

1. Difficulty concentrating, remembering 

details, and making decisions

2. Fatigue and decreased energy

3. Feelings of guilt, worthlessness, 

and/or helplessness

4. Feelings of hopelessness and/or pessimism

5. Insomnia, early-morning wakefulness, 

or excessive sleeping

6. Irritability, restlessness

7. Loss of interest in activities once enjoyed

8. Overeating or appetite loss

9. Persistent aches or pains, or digestive 

problems that do not ease when treated

10. Persistent sad, anxious, or “empty” feelings

11. Thoughts of suicide, suicide attempts

} If you (or someone you know) is thinking of 

suicide or self-harm, call the toll-free, 24-hour 

hotline of the National Suicide Prevention 

Lifeline at 1-800-273-TALK (1-800-273-8255) to 

be connected to a trained counselor at a suicide 

crisis center nearest you.

Note: People with hearing or speech disabilities 

may reach this number through the Federal 

Relay Service teletype service at 800-877-8339.

4

Rebuild Healthy Homes

Disaster Damages
} Floods can shift or damage natural gas lines, which may result in fire if exposed to a flame 

or spark. Chemicals or salt water (in coastal floods) can cause corrosion to wiring and other 

metals, and ruin equipment.

} Floods can cause foundations and basement walls to shift, settle or separate. This can cause 

structural damage to walls and floors. Rushing floodwater can cause wash-out of soil and 

expose foundation footings.

} Wood swells when wet, so it may warp or split. Most processed wood products, such as 

oriented strand board (OSB) panels and particle board, lose strength or disintegrate.

} In some areas, floods can result in sinkholes.

HURRICANES

Hurricane season is from June 1 until 

November 30. Hurricanes are strong tropical 

cyclones that can produce extreme rainfall, 

storm surges, sustained high winds, and may 

include tornadoes. Damage may be widespread 

across hundreds of miles, affect thousands 

of buildings, and cause material and labor 

shortages. Common types of damage include:

} Roof damage (most common) – damage to or 

loss of shingles, underlayment, roof decking, 

chimneys and turbine vents. Gable-end wall 

failures can cause roof collapse if not braced 

adequately.

} Water damage from wind-driven rain – roof 

leaks and loss of flimsy soffits resulting in 

ceiling damage or collapse; leaks in walls 

that wet insulation; window and door leaks.

} Collapse or loss of add-on structures (screen 

rooms, patios, etc.).

} Damage to or pop-out of windows and doors, especially sliding glass doors.

} Structural damage (leaning, collapse) as a result of insufficient connections in framing; 

loss of a garage door or broken windows from flying debris.

TORNADOES

Tornadoes occur with little or no warning. Since wind speeds can reach up to 300 mph, the 

focus of warnings is providing life safety via an exceptionally strong shelter that meets the 

Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA) standard for a tornado safe room. Damage 

can occur a mile wide and up to 50 miles long. Damage is greatest at the core of the funnel 

and less severe toward the edges of the path.

} Core path damage includes drastic uprooting or destruction of homes or parts of homes 

(especially porches, patios and decks). 

} Flying debris and glass shards act as airborne missiles that puncture holes in buildings or 

break windows. Such holes can lead to amplified air pressure loads and structural failures. 

• • •

H U R R I C A N E D A M A G E S B Y 

STRENGTH CATEGORY

Category 1 (74-95 mph) = Minimal Damage:

Damage is primarily to trees, unanchored mobile 

homes; no major damage to most structures. 

Category 2 (96-110 mph) = Moderate Damage:

Some trees are toppled; some roof coverings are 

damaged; major damage to older mobile homes. 

Category 3 (111-129 mph) = Extensive Damage:

Large trees are toppled; structural damage to roofs 

and small homes; mobile homes are destroyed.

Category 4 (130-156 mph) = Extreme Damage:

Extensive damage is done to roofs, windows, 

and doors; roof systems on small buildings 

completely fail.

Category 5 (157 mph +) = Catastrophic Damage:

Roof damage is considerable and widespread; 

window and door damage is severe; extensive 

glass failures; some complete buildings fail.

5

Rebuild Healthy Homes

Disaster Damages
} Homes along the outer fringes of tornadoes tend to have the same types of 

damage as is typical from hurricanes, with damage mostly to roofs, glass and siding.

} Even homes built to a high wind standard suffer severe damages from a direct hit 

strong tornado (see table above). However, they tend to withstand weaker tornadoes 

and the winds in the outer fringe of a strong tornado’s path. 

} A study by the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) showed that 50% 

of tornado-related injuries occurred during rescue attempts, clean-ups and other 

post-storm activities. The most common injuries were from stepping on nails or 

broken glass.

HAIL

Hail is essentially a frozen raindrop, building up mass as it circulates through 

clouds. Hail can grow to several inches thick. As it becomes heavy it falls, 

sometimes reaching 90 mph. Hail can break glass, dent siding and damage or 

destroy roofing materials. Large hail can penetrate a roof covering and hit the 

underlying wood decking.

EARTHQUAKES

Sudden and violent ground movement leaves major structural damages. It can also 

result in landslides, floods, fires and tsunamis. The primary housing vulnerabilities 

in earthquakes include:

} Dislodged water heaters, broken water lines and flooding

} Fires, gas leaks

} Inadequately anchored homes shift off the foundation; walls, floors and 

roof pull apart or separate

} Weak crawl space and basement walls collapse or crack when not braced 

to resist movement

} Pier and post foundations fail when not reinforced against swaying

• • • T O R N A D O D A M A G E S B Y R A T I N G • • •

Tornadoes are measured using the Enhanced Fujita Tornado Scale, or the EF-scale. This scale rates tornadoes from 

0 to 5, based on the wind estimates and damage across 28 types of tornado indicators.

EF 0 = Light Damage: Chimneys are damaged; tree 

branches break; shallow-rooted trees are toppled.

EF 1 = Moderate Damage: Roof coverings are peeled 

off; windows are broken; some tree trunks are snapped; 

unanchored mobile homes are overturned; some 

attached garages are destroyed.

EF 2 = Considerable Damage: Roof structures are 

damaged; mobile homes are destroyed; debris 

becomes airborne (missiles are generated); large 

trees are snapped or uprooted.

EF 3 = Severe Damage: Roofs and some walls are torn 

from structures; some small buildings are destroyed; 

non-reinforced masonry buildings are destroyed.

EF 4 = Devastating Damage: Well-constructed houses are 

destroyed; some structures are lifted from foundations 

and blown some distance; large debris becomes airborne.

EF 5 = Incredible Damage: Strong frame houses are 

lifted from foundations; reinforced concrete structures 

are damaged; car-sized missiles become airborne.

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Rebuild Healthy Homes

Disaster Damages
} Unreinforced masonry foundations, walls and chimneys fail from the shaking

} Homes built on steep hillsides collapse when posts and columns are not braced

} Inflexible and unreinforced walls fall away or buckle

} Rooms over garages fail because the wall with the garage door opening is not 

strong enough.

WILDFIRES

Houses are susceptible to wildfires by exposure to burning embers, direct flame contact, 

intense radiant heat, or firebrands (burning materials lifted by air currents). Damage 

depends on the fire intensity, its duration and the type of materials. Damages range 

from destruction by fire, to smoke, ash and soot deposits and/or charring of materials. 

Firefighting efforts can result in water damage.

Smoke, soot and ash are serious health hazards. Ash can act as a skin irritant. Soot 

particles can float in the air and are an irritant to the respiratory system. Oily soot can 

contain toxins. As the heat of a fire increases, soot becomes pressurized and forced into 

small cracks, crevices and into surface finishes. Smoke, soot and ash stain materials and 

can become trapped in window tracks, gutters, insulation, air conditioner equipment, 

vents, ducts and exterior drains. 

Combustible roof coverings, including wood and organic asphalt shingles, are the 

greatest risk factor on a house. Roof design and maintenance are also crucial factors. 

Complicated roofs tend to accumulate flammable vegetation such as pine needles. 

The main contributing factors to house wildfire risk include:

} Flammability of roof materials and collection of debris (fuel) on roofs 

} Pathways (vents and gaps) allowing embers to enter the house

} Fuel sources within 5 to 10 feet of the house, including plants and landscape material

} Wood structures connected to house, such as decks and fencing

} Continuous tree canopy

} Limited access to property by firefighters. 

WINTER STORMS/FREEZES

A severe winter storm can cause extensive damage from heavy snow and ice, winds 

and freezing rain. Some winter storms also cause flooding. Common damages include:

} Freezing pipes that burst are the number one cause of property damage in 

winter storms.

} Roof ice dams are common – an accumulation of ice at the edge of a roof that prevents 

melting snow from draining properly off of the roof. This trapped water leaks through 

roofing and can damage insulation, walls and ceilings. 

} Roof damage due to heavy snow build-up is common. Most buildings are designed to 

withstand the expected snow load of the region. When snow on a roof weighs more 

than 20 to 25 pounds per square food, failures can occur.

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Rebuild Healthy Homes

Disaster Damages
} Gutters tend to sag or break away due 

to heavy snow and ice, leading to water 

leaking into the house. Leakage increases 

when debris in gutters creates blockages 

for snow and ice. 

EXTREME HEAT/DROUGHTS

Drought can cause soil shrinkage, resulting in 

uneven settling and foundation cracks. This can 

lead to structural damage of walls, floors and 

roofs. It can also cause separation from porches, 

garages and decks. In some areas, drought can 

cause sinkholes. Extreme heat poses a serious 

health threat to vulnerable residents, especially 

from dehydration.

TSUNAMIS/STORM SURGES/LEVEE FAILURES

Tsunamis and storm surges are different coastal flood events, but they produce 

similar damages. A tsunami (high sea wave caused by earthquake or other underwater 

disturbance) takes place over a short time and produces quickly changing water levels 

and rushing currents. A storm surge (rising water due to a weather system) takes place 

over several hours with a repeated hammering of waves and winds. Levee breaks can 

result in a dangerous rush of water that can damage or destroy homes, depending on 

the type of failure and location. 

} Structural damage comes from five main occurrences: force of the water, impact 

by water-borne debris, fires distributed by debris and liquid fuels, scour (rapid 

erosion of soil) resulting in foundation failure, and wind forces from wave 

motion. 

} Collapsed walls, broken windows and doors, and even total destruction 

commonly occur, depending on construction methods and distance from shore. 

Flood damages also occur, such as debris, sediments and water damage to 

materials and equipment.

} Water-borne debris impact is a major problem because rushing water carries 

debris very quickly and rams it into buildings. In addition, debris gathers 

against buildings supports, creating dams that produce even higher damaging 

forces on the structures. 

MUDSLIDES/SINKHOLES/DEBRIS SLIDES

Mudslides, debris slides and sinkholes usually happen after a long period of rain or 

an intense storm. They may coincide with floods. Home damages range from modest 

damage to foundations, roofs and chimneys to complete destruction.

• • •

SNOW LOAD

The weight of 10 to 12 inches of fresh snow 

is equal to 3 to 5 inches of packed/old snow which 

is equal to 1 inch of ice.

Danger zone

} 4+ feet of fresh snow

} 2+ feet of packed/old snow and

} 4+ inches of ice.

8

Rebuild Healthy Homes

Disaster Damages
How-to 

Restoration 

Guide

for a Healthy Home 

How-to

Restoration 

Guide 

for a Healthy Home 

Review and refer to this how-to guide throughout your home restoration process. It addresses key questions for each step in the 

process, including what to look for, what to do, and when work should be 

handled by a professional. Although this guide is focused on information that 

do-it-yourselfers need to know, it also provides useful criteria for contractors 

and other professionals.

R

• • • IF YOU RENT YOUR HOME... • • •

The building owner or landlord is typically responsible for structural repairs and most restoration work. (Check 

your lease or rental agreement for specifics.) Even so, this guide can help you to safely recover many of your home’s 

contents and restore a healthy living space. See the following sections for useful information:

} Protect yourself first and foremost. Wear personal 

protection equipment and clothing before you 

enter a damaged building.

} Assess the damages and hazards before you enter 

the building or your apartment.

} Create a work plan of what you can do, and get 

supplies.

} Clean out safely – your furniture, rugs and other 

possessions. Check with your landlord about how 

to dispose of your waste.

} Clean-up and decontaminate. Before you move 

back in, make sure your living space is properly 

cleaned and decontaminated to ensure a safe and 

healthy living space. If clean-up will be handled 

by the landlord, review this section to help you 

inspect your unit.

9

Rebuild Healthy Homes

How-to Restoration Guide for a Healthy Home 
• • • H O M E R E S T O R A T I O N S T E P S • • •

Your work sequence should progress in the following phases. This guide includes a section about each of these 

steps with more information and resources to help you restore your home and protect your health.

1. Protect yourself first and foremost. Get and use personal protective equipment (PPE) and clothing.

2. Assess the damages and hazards before you begin – including structural stability, safety risks and hidden 

health threats. Specialists may be needed to conduct inspections and make the home safe to enter and restore.

3. Create a work plan. Plan tasks, supplies, professional services, disposal methods, site layout, and power 

sources. Get supplies and tools in advance. They may be easier to find outside the disaster area.

4. Prepare the work site and supplies for safe and productive work and disposal of debris.

• When safe and feasible, get power, water and gas systems into operation.

• Set up a health and safety station, debris layout, and work areas. 

• Cover damaged roofs, broken windows, and damaged exteriors with temporary protection.

5. Clean-out and tear-out using safe work practices that avoid releasing and spreading health hazards. 

(Training or qualified professionals are important for lead, asbestos and mold hazards).

• If flooded, pump out water in stages (very slowly in basements).

• Remove damaged contents. Shovel out mud and silt before it dries.

• Remove damaged, non-restorable building materials. 

6. Clean and decontaminate with effective methods that protect people and property.

7. Restore ... and improve your home.

• Restore ONLY after steps 1 to 6 are thoroughly achieved. Restoration before materials are fully dry or safe 

can result in long-term problems and hazards.

• Include home improvements that reward you with a safer, more durable and healthy home.

Protect Yourself ... First and Foremost

Hazards (and outcomes) you’re most likely to encounter that make personal protection so important are:

} Sharp jagged debris (cuts and scrapes)

} Electrical hazards (shocks and burns)

} Slick and unstable surfaces (fall injuries)

} Exposure to floodwater, chemicals, lead dust and/or asbestos (poisoning, skin or lung damage)

} Splashes, particles and debris in the air (eye damage or blindness)

} Exposure to allergens and other air pollutants (asthma, allergic reactions, respiratory problems)

} Contact with infectious pathogens from sewage and other sources (illness and disease).

Protect Yourself...

First and Foremost

Assess Damages 

and Hazards

Create a 

Work Plan

Prepare the 

Work Site

Clean-Out 

and Tear-Out

Clean and 

Decontaminate

Restore for 

More than Before

10

Rebuild Healthy Homes

How-to Restoration Guide for a Healthy Home 
PERSONAL PROTECTIVE EQUIPMENT (PPE)

What should I wear to protect myself?

Wear protective clothing and gear every time 

you set foot on seriously damaged property. 

Choose personal protective equipment (PPE) 

to protect each part of the body that could be 

exposed to a hazard of the task or conditions. It’s 

best to get training in proper fitting and use of 

protective gear; if it doesn’t fit right, it doesn’t 

protect you. 

Lungs (internal exposure): For most clean-up 

work, a NIOSH-approved rubber half-face 

respirator with a High Efficiency Particulate Air 

(HEPA) filter rated N100 or P100 is recommended. 

They are available from industrial and safety 

equipment suppliers, some home improvement 

stores, and online vendors. 

Do not enter moldy, dusty or potentially 

contaminated areas without at least a mask 

respirator labeled N95 or higher, worn properly. 

Note that N95 mask respirators do not protect 

against asbestos and chemical vapors. P100

respirators are needed for chemical hazards. 

N100 or P100 are needed for asbestos hazards, 

and are recommended to minimize exposure 

to lead paint dust. 

A dust mask is NOT the same as a respirator, 

and does not protect you from mold spores, lead 

dust or fine particles (such as asbestos fibers). 

N100, P100 and N95 masks are readily available 

in home improvement stores and online. Those 

with a valve are more comfortable to use over 

long periods.

Eyes: Wear goggles or safety glasses with side 

shields, or a full-face shield. 

Ears: Wear earplugs or earmuffs in high noise 

work areas.

Protect Yourself...

First and Foremost

Assess Damages 

and Hazards

Create a 

Work Plan

Prepare the 

Work Site

Clean-Out 

and Tear-Out

Clean and 

Decontaminate

Restore for 

More than Before

Most Important Tip of All:

Remind yourself often to take care of 

yourself and your family’s health and 

safety first, and throughout the process 

of restoring a damaged home. Don’t 

hesitate to seek medical attention for 

any signs of illness, infection or injury 

after a disaster and during clean-up.

PHOTO: NIOSH-approved P100 half-face respirator for 

asbestos and chemical hazards.

PHOTO: N95 mask respirator with comfort valve.

11

Rebuild Healthy Homes

How-to Restoration Guide for a Healthy Home 
Feet: Wear rubber boots (in wet areas) or 

disposable non-skid shoe covers over work boots 

that have a steel toe and thick, hard sole. 

Head: Wear a cap with a brim or other protective 

head cover. Wear a hard hat if there is a chance 

of falling debris, bumping your head, and when 

working on the roof or tall ladders.

Hands: Wear strong, waterproof gloves 

designed to protect hands from cuts, chemicals, 

temperature extremes, and abrasions.

Body: Wear disposable coveralls with elastic 

wrists and ankles. If you can’t obtain disposable coveralls, bring a set of work clothes and 

shoes to the worksite. Change into them before 

entering the work area, and remove them before going home. Wash work clothes separately from 

other clothes. Wet-wipe work shoes (including the soles) and then throw away the wipes.

When should I wear personal protective equipment (PPE)?

} Put on the appropriate personal protective equipment (PPE) before you approach a damage area 

and keep it on. Full PPE to protect lungs, eyes and skin should be worn in areas that could contain 

mold, lead, asbestos or other contaminants.

} Inspect your PPE before each use to find any holes or other damage. If there are any flaws, replace it.

} When taking breaks or leaving, remove your PPE in the work site clean-up area. Your respirator 

should be the last PPE item to take off.

} Make sure to wipe and wash off your hands and face before removing your respirator, eating, 

drinking, smoking, or any other activities to avoid ingesting the contaminants you contacted. 

If a shower is available, use it after remediation activities.

• • • R E S P I R A T O R C A U T I O N S • • •

If you buy a respirator or use a borrowed one, thoroughly read the instructions. It should be fit-tested to the 

wearer and must be worn properly. Note that facial hair can make the respirator ineffective.

Some people with medical conditions should not wear respirators, nor should they do work that requires them. 

It’s best to check with a medical professional to be sure it’s safe to wear a respirator for more than a short time. 

Anyone with allergies or asthma should not work in moldy or heavy debris areas.

PHOTO: Rubber boots reduce electric shock hazard in wet 

conditions.

Protect Yourself...

First and Foremost

Assess Damages 

and Hazards

Create a 

Work Plan

Prepare the 

Work Site

Clean-Out 

and Tear-Out

Clean and 

Decontaminate

Restore for 

More than Before

12

Rebuild Healthy Homes

How-to Restoration Guide for a Healthy Home 
ILLUSTRATION A

Personal Protective Equipment (PPE)

Full Professional Level PPE

(Recommended for high-hazard work)

1. Hard hat

2. Hearing protection earmuffs

3. Safety goggles

4. NIOSH-approved P100

half-face respirator

5. Disposable suit

6. Chemical-resistant gloves

7. Rubber boots with safety toes

8. Disposable shoe covers

Minimal Personal Protective 

Equipment (PPE)

9. Cap or hat with brim

10. Earplugs (if needed)

11. Safety goggles or glasses

12. NIOSH-approved N95 or 

N100 mask respirator

13. Removable work clothes 

(long sleeves and pants)

14. Rubber gloves

15. Rubber boots (wet work) or 

safety toe work shoes (rinsable)

13

Rebuild Healthy Homes

How-to Restoration Guide for a Healthy Home 
What should I avoid when wearing/selecting my personal protective equipment (PPE)?

} Avoid gloves that are too thick or too large so you can safely handle objects.

} Don’t wear sneakers or sandals, even with shoe covers. They won’t prevent cuts, punctures, 

or crush injuries to feet.

} Don’t wear hard hats backwards.

} Don’t loosen your respirator to make it more comfortable. Bypassing the filter defeats 

its purpose.

} Keep in mind that contaminants may cling to hair and clothing and transfer to car seats. 

That could create an ongoing source of exposure to family and friends.

} Do not handle food or beverages with work gloves.

} When wearing full coverage PPE, take extra measures to avoid heat exhaustion in hot weather 

or hot areas. 

ACCIDENT PREVENTION

After a disaster, serious injuries from using chainsaws and power tools and from falls are 

common. Take the time to inspect and service power tools and ladders, review manufacturer 

instructions, and practice using them safely to build skill beforehand. 

If you need to use a chainsaw to clear tree damage from your home or yard, use these safety tips 

to avoid an unplanned visit to a hospital emergency room:

} Operate, adjust, and maintain your chainsaw according to manufacturer’s instructions. Check 

and adjust the tension of the chain saw blade.

} Wear personal protective equipment, including a hard hat, safety glasses, hearing protection, 

heavy work gloves, and cut-resistant legwear.

} Avoid contact with power lines.

} Always cut at waist level or below.

} Be sure that bystanders are at a safe distance from cutting activities.

} With an electric chain saw, use extreme caution to avoid electrical shock. Use a heavy-duty, 

3-wire, outdoor extension cord; don’t use it while standing in a wet area; and take care to not 

cut through the cord.

} Take extra care in cutting trees or branches that are bent, twisted, hung up on, or caught under 

another object. If the tree or the branch is suddenly released, it may strike you or a bystander.

Protect Yourself...

First and Foremost

Assess Damages 

and Hazards

Create a 

Work Plan

Prepare the 

Work Site

Clean-Out 

and Tear-Out

Clean and 

Decontaminate

Restore for 

More than Before

14

Rebuild Healthy Homes

How-to Restoration Guide for a Healthy Home 
Assess Damages 

and Hazards

Review the common damages for the type of 

disaster that impacted you to anticipate what 

to look for and prepare. Regardless of the type 

of disaster, before you tackle any clean-up and 

restoration, damages and hazards should be 

carefully evaluated, including the following: 

} Assess structural stability

} Inspect for creatures, chemicals and bio-hazards

} Inspect utilities – electrical, gas and water

} Inspect heating and cooling system (HVAC)

} Assess health hazards.

ASSESS STRUCTURAL STABILITY

Most buildings that suffered structural damage will show distinctive outward signs. Never enter 

a building that might have structural damage. Review the information below about how to tell 

what is wrong and what to do.

What should I look for?

Evidence of structural damage may include:

} Roofs that sag in the middle or at the ends due to load-bearing walls that have shifted

} Walls that are not vertical or straight, and stuck doors

} Missing or broken support columns or beams

} A shift or separation where the structure meets the foundation

} New cracks in the exterior of the building or its foundation

} Continuous cracks or leaning of basement walls, crawl space walls, or piers

} Floors that sag, have separated from the walls, or have holes.

What should I do about it?

If you see any of those structural damage indicators, assume that the building is unsafe. Don’t climb 

onto or go into the building until it has been verified by a qualified professional as safe to enter.

• • •

COLLAPSE WARNING SIGNS

Leave the property immediately if you hear 

noises from shifting debris, see dust clouds, see 

changing crack patterns, or hear sounds such as 

creaking and crackling.

Protect Yourself...

First and Foremost

Assess Damages 

and Hazards

Create a 

Work Plan

Prepare the 

Work Site

Clean-Out 

and Tear-Out

Clean and 

Decontaminate

Restore for 

More than Before

15

Rebuild Healthy Homes

How-to Restoration Guide for a Healthy Home 
ILLUSTRATION B

Structural Flaws

1 2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10

11

12

1. A sagging roof ridge or dip in 

the roof

2. Damaged roofing, roof 

decking and flashing

3. Smoldering wood

4. Cracked or broken roof rafter 

or truss

5. Cracked or broken ceiling joist

6. Wall bulging or not straight

7. Stair-step or diagonal pattern 

of cracks in walls, particularly 

near bottom

8. Rotten or displaced bottom 

plate, rim board, or sill beam.

9. Floors and ceiling joists 

not level

10. Buckled or broken floor 

boards

11. Cracked floor joist

12. Sunken, broken or leaning 

foundation

16

Rebuild Healthy Homes

How-to Restoration Guide for a Healthy Home 
Protect Yourself...

First and Foremost

Assess Damages 

and Hazards

Create a 

Work Plan

Prepare the 

Work Site

Clean-Out 

and Tear-Out

Clean and 

Decontaminate

Restore for 

More than Before

Even if the building is verified as structurally 

sound to enter, remain alert to dangerous 

walking and working surfaces, such as: 

} Cracks, buckles, voids and weakened 

spots in the floor

} Slippery conditions

} Sharp debris such as broken glass and 

splintered wood

} Debris piles that could collapse

} Sagging ceilings that may contain water or 

wet insulation that might collapse

} Smoldering material that might reignite.

Should I bring in a professional?

Never enter a building that might have structural damage 

until it has been inspected by a local official, engineer, or professional home inspector. If there is structural weakness, hire 

a licensed contractor or engineer to design and install reinforcements (unless the building is condemned and must be 

demolished). Get a building permit and inspections of the corrective work.

Check with your local building permit office to find out about 

any residential damage assessment programs and procedures. 

They may have a post-disaster inspection and rating system, 

such as:

} GREEN: Building is safe to enter and occupancy is permitted.

} YELLOW: Building has potential structural damage and/or failing non-structural items or 

accessories (like a porch or deck). Building may or may not be habitable; partial occupancy is 

permitted per noted restrictions.

} RED: Building is unsafe to enter and its occupancy is prohibited. The building is structurally 

unstable and may collapse. 

INSPECT FOR CREATURES, CHEMICALS AND BIO-HAZARDS 

What should I look for?

} Just as people are displaced during disasters, so too are animals and insects. Snakes, rats, mice, 

cockroaches and other pests tend to hide in debris. Standing water breeds mosquitos. In the south, 

watch out for fire ants. They can float and survive on floodwater.

PHOTO: Remain alert to hazardous walking and working 

conditions.

SAFETY TIP:

If a home was damaged 

by fire, or if combustion 

equipment (such as a gas 

furnace or water heater) 

is damaged, keep two fire 

extinguishers with a UL 

(Underwriters Laboratory) 

rating of 10ABC nearby at 

all times.

17

Rebuild Healthy Homes

How-to Restoration Guide for a Healthy Home 
} Disasters often result in toxic chemical and fuel spills. Industrial, agricultural and household 

chemicals can be released into the air or floodwater and leave a hazardous residue on materials. 

Find out about major sources of chemicals in your area.

} Consider rising floodwater to be contaminated. It’s likely to contain sewage and infectious 

bacteria, in addition to chemicals. Tetanus, commonly known as lockjaw, can be acquired from 

contaminated soil or water that gets on broken skin, like a cut or scrape.

What should I do about it?

} Look before you leap! Expect hidden hazards and plan accordingly. Wear protective gear.

} Tap the floor and piled debris with a long stick ahead of your path to reveal hiding creatures.

} If you see a snake or other dangerous animal, back away slowly, then call local animal control.

} Listen for alerts from authorities about chemical releases or hazards.

} Wash skin exposed to hazardous chemicals or bacteria. Keep a first aid kit handy.

} Do not let children play in floodwater or debris.

Should I bring in a professional?

} Report major chemical and fuel spills to local authorities or to the U.S. EPA National Response 

Center at 1-800-424-8802. 

} If anyone shows signs of illness or infection, immediately see a health professional and 

describe the exposure. If you suspect poisoning, call 911 or the National Poison Control Center at 

1-800-222-1222. 

} Note: People with hearing or speech disabilities may reach these phone numbers through the 

Federal Relay Service teletype service at 800-877-8339. Visit www.gsa.gov/fedrelay for additional 

ways to communicate with federal agencies.

INSPECT UTILITIES – ELECTRICAL, GAS AND WATER SUPPLY 

What should I look for?

} CAUTION! Be aware of power lines, power junctions and downed electrical wires. They can cause 

electrocution and burns. Make sure that no live electric lines are on the property or in the house. 

} Find out if there is a natural gas line or fuel tank, and check for damage. If you smell gas, assume 

the area is unsafe.

} Look for water streaming out of the home from a plumbing break.

} Find out if the community water supply is safe to use and to drink.

What should I do about it?

} Notify the electric company of damaged and downed power lines. Do not touch fallen wires.

} Shut off any gas supply to the building. Turn off the shut-off valve at the gas meter or propane 

tank; you may need a wrench or pliers. 

Protect Yourself...

First and Foremost

Assess Damages 

and Hazards

Create a 

Work Plan

Prepare the 

Work Site

Clean-Out 

and Tear-Out

Clean and 

Decontaminate

Restore for 

More than Before

18

Rebuild Healthy Homes

How-to Restoration Guide for a Healthy Home 
ILLUSTRATION C

Shutting Off Utilities

on

off

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

1. Gas meter: Check gas meter or fuel tank to be sure 

valve is off. You may need a wrench.

2. Power lines: Report any down, loose or damaged 

power lines or wires.

3. Electric box or panel: 

• If exterior electric box (common on older homes), 

place handle in off position (down). Secure or label 

it to prevent accidental activation. 

• If no exterior shut-off, turn off the main circuit breaker 

switch or remove fuse in electrical panel. 

• CAUTION! Do not touch electrical panel while standing 

in water or if it is damaged. Get an electrician to shut 

off power.

4. Electric meter: Before entering, make sure there is no dial 

movement on electric meter.

5. Water valves: Turn off water valve (clockwise) of each sink, 

toilet, water heater, ice maker, etc.

6. Drains: Pour bucket of water into sinks, toilets and tubs to 

check for leaks.

7. Gas appliances: Turn off all valves to gas appliances. Valve 

handles should be perpendicular to pipe. 

8. Water meter: Find and turn off main water shut-off valve at 

meter (may be in the front yard). You may need a wrench. Call 

the water district office if you can’t find or reach the valve.

19

Rebuild Healthy Homes

How-to Restoration Guide for a Healthy Home 
} Open all windows when you enter a building 

to clear the air. If you smell gas or hear a 

noise that sounds like escaping gas, leave 

immediately. Also leave the door open and 

notify the gas company.

} Never create any ignition until you are 

100% sure that there is no gas in the air. 

That means do NOT smoke, light matches 

or lighters, operate electrical switches or 

flashlights, use telephones or mobile phones, 

or start a car. 

} Turn off all electricity at the main electrical 

panel, but NOT while standing in water. 

Then, unplug appliances and lamps, remove 

light bulbs from fixtures, and remove the 

cover plates of any wall switches and outlets that got wet.

} Visually inspect equipment before use. Label or remove damaged items. 

} When power is turned back on, make sure the circuits and electrical equipment are grounded. 

Never use an electric tool or appliance while standing in water or a wet area. 

} If there are plumbing leaks or the water supply might be contaminated, turn off the main 

shut-off valve with a wrench. Do not use contaminated water for clean-up.

} Test or install carbon monoxide (CO) detectors and smoke alarms in the home. When there’s no 

power, get a battery-operated CO detector, if using any fuel-burning equipment.

} If anyone feels dizzy, weak or nauseated during work, get fresh air immediately. If symptoms 

persist, seek immediate medical help.

Should I bring in a professional?

Have a licensed electrician inspect and repair the electrical system before using anything electrical, if 

any wiring was damaged or flooded, if the power supply is not grounded, or if the electrical path has 

been broken.

If there could be damage to gas lines (from floods, earthquake, fire, etc.) or if you smell gas, have the gas 

utility company inspect your service before using it. If there is damage, disconnect gas appliances or pipes.

INSPECT HEATING, VENTILATION, AND AIR-CONDITIONING (HVAC) SYSTEMS

What should I look for?

Examine the heating and cooling units and ductwork or piping for damage, separations and soot. 

Check to see if any components were flooded. Look for signs of fire, rust, loose connections, and mold.

PHOTO: Carbon monoxide (CO) detector with digital 

read-out allows you to monitor CO levels.

Protect Yourself...

First and Foremost

Assess Damages 

and Hazards

Create a 

Work Plan

Prepare the 

Work Site

Clean-Out 

and Tear-Out

Clean and 

Decontaminate

Restore for 

More than Before

20

Rebuild Healthy Homes

How-to Restoration Guide for a Healthy Home 
What should I do about it?

} Combustion equipment (gas or oil furnaces, steam boilers, wood/pellet burning heaters), flues 

and fuel lines should be inspected by an equipment professional or the fire department. This 

is needed after any event that could potentially cause a hidden crack or separation, even if you 

can’t see any damage.

} When the heating or cooling system is turned on, if it makes an unusual noise, or emits odor or 

sparks, turn it off. Do not use it until checked by an HVAC equipment professional.

} Before the home is occupied, try to run the HVAC system for two or three days. This avoids 

exposure to the “first flush” of residue that may be in the system, and provides a trial run.

Should I bring in a professional?

A heating/ventilation/air conditioning (HVAC) professional should inspect, clean, and test the 

performance of a potentially damaged or soiled HVAC system. A complete clean-up of flooded or 

moldy HVAC components should include the following procedures:

} All flooded filter media and insulation in components should be removed. This might require 

cutting into or replacing insulation-lined ducts and components.

} Only a high efficiency particulate air (HEPA) vacuum cleaner should be used to remove debris.

} If contaminated with floodwater, sewage or mold, components should be sanitized or replaced. 

Only HVAC-safe biocides should be used. WARNING: Chlorine bleach should NOT be used to 

disinfect HVAC equipment or any metals, since it is corrosive. 

} After cleaning, components should be dried and tested before use.

} Combustion equipment should be tested for gas leaks, exhaust leaks and backdrafting (reverse 

flow of combustion gases into the home). 

ASSESS HEALTH HAZARDS

Mold

Molds are a type of fungi. They serve as nature’s recycler by helping to break down dead materials. 

That’s a good thing in nature, but not in our homes and bodies. 

Molds produce tiny spores that float and spread easily through the air. Live spores act like seeds, 

forming new mold growths (colonies) when they find the right conditions – moisture, nutrients and 

a suitable place to grow. Of these, moisture is the key factor – for growth and for control.

That means the solution to mold control is moisture control. Mold growth begins on materials that 

stay wet for about two to three days and can multiply rapidly. After a wetting event, rapid drying can 

prevent a mold population explosion. When that’s not possible and mold growth has occurred, it’s 

still important to deal with it as soon as possible using safe and effective methods.

What are the hazards of mold?

Although there is wide variation in how mold affects people, long-term or high exposure is a health 

hazard for anyone.

Protect Yourself...

First and Foremost

Assess Damages 

and Hazards

Create a 

Work Plan

Prepare the 

Work Site

Clean-Out 

and Tear-Out

Clean and 

Decontaminate

Restore for 

More than Before

21

Rebuild Healthy Homes

How-to Restoration Guide for a Healthy Home 
} Breathing in mold spores can trigger allergic reactions and asthma attacks. Contact with mold can 

cause skin and eye irritation. Exposure may lower resistance to illness, especially in combination 

with other health hazards. 

} Some types of mold can produce toxic 

substances that are present in both live and 

dead spores and fragments. 

Mold growth can also stain and damage 

materials. It can’t penetrate the surface of solid 

wood, but it can damage other porous materials, 

especially composite wood products, paper and 

fabrics.

 CAUTION! Don’t enter a moldy house without 

suitable protective gear. Wear a respirator 

rated at least N95 (N100 is preferred), goggles 

and gloves. Do not touch moldy materials with 

bare hands.

What should I look for? 

} Telltale signs include discoloration and fuzzy 

growth on surfaces, or a musty odor (which 

indicates active growth). Mold may appear as 

cottony, velvety, granular, or leathery. It may 

appear white, black, brown, green or orange.

} Locate all areas that got wet, even if they 

now appear dry. Look for visible signs of mold 

growth. Anything that stayed damp longer 

than two days is likely to have mold. 

} It is helpful to use a moisture meter with 

a probe or scanner to check for hidden 

dampness. Moisture meters are available at 

many home improvement stores and online.

} Investigate areas with musty odors and seek 

out hidden mold growth behind, above or 

underneath materials such as wallpaper, 

drywall, paneling, flooring, ceiling tiles, 

cabinets, etc. 

} If there is fibrous or open cell foam insulation 

in walls or ceilings that got wet, expect mold 

growth. Those materials hold water and 

impede drying.

PHOTO: Mold can appear cottony white.

PHOTO: Moisture meter.

PHOTO: Mold growth in flooded home.

Protect Yourself...

First and Foremost

Assess Damages 

and Hazards

Create a 

Work Plan

Prepare the 

Work Site

Clean-Out 

and Tear-Out

Clean and 

Decontaminate

Restore for 

More than Before

22

Rebuild Healthy Homes

How-to Restoration Guide for a Healthy Home 
• • • M O L D M Y T H S • • •

MYTH: “Black mold” is the dangerous type. 

FACTS: Many species of mold are black. That term was 

coined to describe one species that was suspected of 

causing serious health effects. Regardless of color or 

species, any indoor mold growth should be considered 

a potential health hazard and safely removed.

––

MYTH: I see mold in my home, so I need mold testing.

Facts: Mold testing in a home is not usually needed or 

useful (unless required by a doctor, insurance policy or 

remediation contractor). If you see or smell mold, you 

have mold! Regardless of the type or quantity, it should 

be removed, and the sooner the better.

MYTH: I only need to test for and remediate 

“toxic mold.”

FACTS: Any type of mold is a potential health hazard 

and should be removed. Some species (including 

common indoor molds) can produce toxins in certain 

conditions. However, most tests don’t detect whether 

or not toxins are present, so testing is not usually 

helpful to answer health concerns. 

––

MYTH: Bleach should be used to kill mold.

FACTS: Dead mold and live mold can have the same 

health effects, so it’s best to remove mold rather than 

just kill it. Bleach and other disinfectants can kill mold 

if in contact long enough, but are hazardous chemicals 

that also pose risks to people and some materials. See 

the Clean and Decontaminate section to learn more.

• • • F L O O D I N G A N D M O L D G R O W T H • • •

} Roof damage can result in water and mold 

damage to ceilings, insulation and walls. 

} Wet drywall is more prone to mold growth than 

is plaster. 

} Wet carpets and pads slow drying, warp 

subflooring.

} High indoor humidity encourages mold growth, 

slows drying.

} Vinyl wallpaper traps moisture in walls. 

} Water settles on bottom wood framing, and risks 

mold and decay if it stays wet behind baseboard.

} Wet insulation (except for closed cell foam) holds 

water, causing long-term mold and rot problems. 

It MUST be removed.

1. Wicking water line – Water wicks upward beyond 

the flood level. Extreme mold growth from longterm wetness is worse in wicking area.

2. Floodwater line – Shows depth of flood.

PHOTO 1: Mold and rot from 

leaving wet insulation in wall.

PHOTO 2: Ceiling damage 

resulting from roof leaks.

2

1

PHOTO 3: Mold growth 

is heavier in wicking area 

(above flood level).

PHOTO 4: Mold behind vinyl 

wallpaper.

Protect Yourself...

First and Foremost

Assess Damages 

and Hazards

Create a 

Work Plan

Prepare the 

Work Site

Clean-Out 

and Tear-Out

Clean and 

Decontaminate

Restore for 

More than Before

23

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How-to Restoration Guide for a Healthy Home 
What should I do? 

} The longer mold is allowed to grow, the faster it multiplies, the greater the health hazard, and the 

harder it is to remedy. So as soon as it’s safe to enter, don’t delay clean-up and dry-out. Do not 

wait for an insurance claims adjuster to see it; take photos and get started as soon as you can.

} To protect your health and home, make sure the mold clean-up process is done as safely and 

thoroughly as possible. Whether you hire a pro or must tackle it yourself, make sure everyone 

follows recommended mold removal guidelines or nationally recognized standards. 

} See 10 Steps for Safe and Effective DIY Mold Removal in the Clean and Decontaminate section of 

this guide for do-it-yourself guidelines. Learn more at www.epa.gov/mold.

Should I bring in a professional?

} Hiring a properly trained and equipped mold remediation contractor can provide the safest and 

most effective result. However, that’s often not an option for many disaster victims. After floods, 

mold remediators may be in short supply. Homeowner's insurance typically doesn’t cover the cost 

of mold removal. Check your policies.

} Before hiring a contractor, check your state or local government’s licensing, registration or 

certification requirements. Get in writing the cost and the methods or recognized protocol to be used.

} Professional contractors may use mold sampling before and after remediation to verify the 

effectiveness of their clean-up work. This is referred to as “clearance.”

Lead in Paint, Dust and Soil

The most common sources of lead poisoning are from lead-contaminated paint, dust and soil – 

through breathing in dust and hand-to-mouth ingestion. The greatest risk is to young children and 

pregnant women, but lead is harmful to anyone.

} Even tiny amounts of lead dust can cause irreversible damage to children’s development, causing 

learning disabilities, lower I.Q., behavioral problems and stunted growth. 

} High levels can cause mental retardation, coma, and even death.

} In pregnant women, lead poisoning can cause miscarriages, premature births, and stillbirths. 

} In any adult, lead can cause high blood pressure, fertility problems, digestive problems, joint pain, 

and memory problems.

What should I look for?

If your home was built prior to 1978, it could contain lead-based paint. The older the home, the more 

likely it has lead-based paint. It was most commonly used on painted woodwork and trim, windows, 

kitchen and bathroom walls, and exterior surfaces like siding and trim.

Soil, especially near major roads and in cities, can contain lead from leaded gasoline fumes of the 

past. It could also contain lead-based exterior house paint dust from past chalking and sanding. 

} If the home or its painted or varnished furnishings were built prior to 1978 (or you don’t know 

the age), and a certified lead inspector has not determined that it’s lead-free, then assume there 

is lead-based paint.

Protect Yourself...

First and Foremost

Assess Damages 

and Hazards

Create a 

Work Plan

Prepare the 

Work Site

Clean-Out 

and Tear-Out

Clean and 

Decontaminate

Restore for 

More than Before

24

Rebuild Healthy Homes

How-to Restoration Guide for a Healthy Home 
} Look for damage to any painted materials. Any peeling, cracked, blistered or eroded paint 

creates lead-based dust that can float in the air and settle on any surface.

} If wind-driven dirt or silt from floodwater was deposited in the home, assume it contains lead.

What should I do about it?

Learn more about lead-safe work practices before you begin work. Free information is available at 

www.epa.gov/lead or by calling the National Lead Information Center at 1-800-424-LEAD (5323). 

Note: People with hearing or speech disabilities may reach this phone number through the Federal 

Relay Service teletype service at 800-877-8339. Visit www.gsa.gov/fedrelay for additional ways to 

communicate with federal agencies.

If lead-contaminated soil or paint might be present:

} Keep children and pregnant women away from 

any area that might have lead dust or debris.

} Try to avoid spreading and disturbing 

lead-contaminated dust.

} Do not burn painted materials and debris, 

unless you know they are lead-free. 

} Make sure that you and all workers use 

lead-safe work practices, including:

• Wear personal protective equipment (PPE), 

including an N100 respirator (half-face 

type with purple cartridges is preferred), 

goggles and gloves.

• Cover work areas with plastic sheeting 

to catch paint debris from restoration 

activities. 

• Minimize pounding and hammering 

(pry and pull instead). Avoid using 

sandblasting, heat guns or torches. Avoid 

chemical paint removers since they pose 

additional health risks.

• Use wet methods in deconstruction and 

demolition. Wet-mist an area before 

drilling, cutting or scraping.

• If using power tools or sanders, a HEPA 

filter vacuum attachment is needed.

PHOTO: Do NOT sand lead paint. Use removal methods 

that control dust.

PHOTO: Wet-misting lead paint reduces dust hazard.

Protect Yourself...

First and Foremost

Assess Damages 

and Hazards

Create a 

Work Plan

Prepare the 

Work Site

Clean-Out 

and Tear-Out

Clean and 

Decontaminate

Restore for 

More than Before

25

Rebuild Healthy Homes

How-to Restoration Guide for a Healthy Home 
• Collect and seal paint and renovation debris in plastic bags or tarps for disposal.

• Damp clean to pick up settled dust. Follow up with a HEPA vacuum, if possible.

• Following repair, make sure the building has been thoroughly cleaned. Get a lead dust cleaning 

verification test or a clearance examination, if possible, by a certified lead professional (see below).

Note: If you receive government rental or homeownership assistance for your pre-1978 house or 

apartment, a clearance examination by a certified lead risk assessor or inspector is usually required 

before the home can be reoccupied. Contact the agency providing the housing assistance for 

information. Find certified lead risk assessors or inspectors near you through www.epa.gov/lead or 

by calling the National Lead Information Center at 1-800-424-5323. People with hearing or speech 

disabilities may reach these phone numbers through the Federal Relay Service teletype service at 

800-877-8339. Visit www.gsa.gov/fedrelay for additional ways to communicate with federal agencies.

Should I bring in a professional?

If you use contractors to make repairs on a pre-1978 home, hire only EPA- or state-certified Lead-Safe 

Renovators since they have completed special training in lead-safe work practices to protect your 

health. A lead dust test or inspection can be performed by an EPA- or state-certified Lead Inspector or 

Lead Risk Assessor. You can search for certified firms at www.epa.gov/lead or call the National Lead 

Information Center number above. 

Homeowners working on their own homes do not have to be certified, but contractors who work on 

pre-1978 homes are required by the EPA Renovation, Repair and Painting (RRP) Rule to be certified. 

The rule has some emergency exemptions for work on disaster-damaged property to allow work to 

happen quickly.

Asbestos

Asbestos is a mineral fiber that was used in many 

building products because of its heat resistance 

and strength. Some materials installed in homes, 

especially those built before 1980, contain 

asbestos. When damaged or disturbed, tiny fibers 

can be released into the air and become a health 

hazard. The fibers can be small enough to be 

invisible to the naked eye.

} Breathing asbestos fibers can increase risk of 

developing lung cancer and other serious lung 

diseases. The risk increases with the number 

of fibers inhaled and if you smoke, but 

symptoms may not appear for many years.

} Asbestos in a home is usually not a problem if the material is in good condition. However, it’s a 

big concern following disasters because damage to building materials can expose and release 

asbestos fibers.

PHOTO: Asbestos is a naturally occurring mineral that was 

used in many materials before 1980.

Protect Yourself...

First and Foremost

Assess Damages 

and Hazards

Create a 

Work Plan

Prepare the 

Work Site

Clean-Out 

and Tear-Out

Clean and 

Decontaminate

Restore for 

More than Before

26

Rebuild Healthy Homes

How-to Restoration Guide for a Healthy Home 
What should I look for?

Some pre-1980 materials that may contain asbestos include:

} Steam-pipe, boiler, furnace and duct insulation

} Fireproofing materials around heat sources

} Soundproofing, ceiling tiles and spray-on acoustic or fireproofing coatings

} Textured paints

} Plaster, cement, putties and caulk

} Asbestos and vinyl/asbestos floor tiles, backing, mastic and adhesives

} Asbestos cement siding and roofing

} Artificial ashes in gas fireplaces

} Heat-resistant textiles.

If you’re unsure if your home was built before 1980, assume these materials might contain 

asbestos. Only certified asbestos inspection professionals can determine whether a material 

contains hazardous asbestos. 

If there might be asbestos, wear a properly fitted N100 or P100 respirator. Consider that:

} Floods can break down stable asbestos into hazardous fibers

} Smoke from burned debris can contain asbestos fibers

} Wind and earthquake forces can damage asbestos materials and release fibers.

What should I do about it?

If an asbestos material is in good condition with no damage, leave it alone. It’s better to not 

disturb it. Take precautions to avoid further damage during restoration activities.

If asbestos materials are damaged, there are two types of correction – repair or removal: 

Repair involves either sealing or covering asbestos material to keep it in place and prevent fibers 

from being released into the air. It is usually safer and lower cost than removal.

} Sealing (encapsulation) involves treating the material with a product that either binds the 

asbestos fibers together or coats the material so fibers are contained. It is the typical remedy 

for pipe, furnace and boiler insulation. This is not a viable do-it-yourself procedure and should 

be done by a qualified professional trained to handle asbestos and safely apply the appropriate 

sealant. 

} Covering (enclosure) is placing a protective wrap or new material over and around 

the asbestos material to prevent release of fibers into the air. Covering avoids further 

disturbance of the material. Laying new flooring over asbestos floor tile is a common and 

practical solution.

Protect Yourself...

First and Foremost

Assess Damages 

and Hazards

Create a 

Work Plan

Prepare the 

Work Site

Clean-Out 

and Tear-Out

Clean and 

Decontaminate

Restore for 

More than Before

27

Rebuild Healthy Homes

How-to Restoration Guide for a Healthy Home 
Removal is usually more risky and expensive than repair, since it further disturbs the material 

which can result in the release of more fibers. When removing damaged asbestos-containing 

materials, make sure the following precautions to minimize health risks are used.

} Wear proper personal protective equipment (PPE) and don’t allow anyone without PPE near 

the work area. Post a warning sign, “Danger Asbestos Dust Hazard – Cancer and Lung Disease 

Hazard – Authorized Workers Only.”

} Seal off the work area to prevent spread of asbestos to other rooms. See Set Up Containment

section (pages 39 to 40).

} Apply a wetting agent (such as water and a few drops of detergent) with a fine mist hand 

sprayer. Wet fibers don’t float well in air and are easier to clean up.

} Avoid sanding, scraping or drilling holes in asbestos-containing materials.

} Remove whole pieces or ensure that fragments to be removed are as large as possible.

} Never sweep debris. Vacuum only with a HEPA vacuum cleaner made for asbestos removal.

} Keep debris wet, double-bag, label and seal it in heavy duty plastic bags for proper disposal.

Should I bring in a professional?

Private homes usually are not covered by asbestos regulations, but you should make sure that qualified asbestos professionals handle any repair or removal of damaged asbestos materials. That 

could be a certified asbestos abatement contractor or, when appropriate, a professional trained to 

handle specific products (such as asbestos flooring, roofing or plumbing). If possible, when the 

work is completed, have the asbestos professional test the indoor air to ensure it’s safe before the 

home is occupied.

Radon

Radon is a radioactive gas that comes from the breakdown of uranium in soil. It can be released into the 

air, seep into homes and build up to hazardous levels. 

Radon can be found all over the U.S., but some areas 

have high radon levels. See EPA’s Map of Radon Zones 

at www.epa.gov/radon/zonemap.html.

Radon is the second leading cause of lung cancer 

in the U.S. after smoking. Most radon-induced lung 

cancers occur from long-term low and medium dose 

exposure in homes. If you smoke and your home has 

high radon levels, your risk is especially high. Learn 

more about radon at www.epa.gov/radon. PHOTO: Radon can be found all over the US, but some 

areas have high radon levels.

Protect Yourself...

First and Foremost

Assess Damages 

and Hazards

Create a 

Work Plan

Prepare the 

Work Site

Clean-Out 

and Tear-Out

Clean and 

Decontaminate

Restore for 

More than Before

28

Rebuild Healthy Homes

How-to Restoration Guide for a Healthy Home 
Protect Yourself...

First and Foremost

Assess Damages 

and Hazards

Create a 

Work Plan

Prepare the 

Work Site

Clean-Out 

and Tear-Out

Clean and 

Decontaminate

Restore for 

More than Before

What should I look for?

You can’t see, smell or taste radon. The only way to know if you are at risk from radon in your 

home is to test the indoor air using a radon test kit. Note that a radon test requires that windows 

and doors be closed as much as possible during the several-days long test, so testing a severely 

damaged home may need to wait until after repairs.

Damage to your home’s foundation, basement or sump pump could increase the risk of radon 

entering the home. Inspect for cracks, gaps and signs of shifting. Also inspect walls (interior and 

exterior) for diagonal cracks, gaps or bulges that may have been caused by foundation damage.

Many newer homes, especially in high radon risk zones, have radon mitigation, or reduction, 

systems. Such a system is likely to be labeled. It may include soil gas exhaust pipes inserted 

through or under the foundation floor, with or without an exhaust fan. The pipe from (from 

foundation to roof) should be checked for signs of damage. Also make sure that its seal to the 

foundation is unbroken and airtight.

What should I do about it?

The EPA recommends radon testing for all 

homes, regardless of the risk zone. Testing 

to see if a radon mitigation system should 

be included in your restoration plan is 

inexpensive and easy. If your home is not 

badly damaged and can be kept mostly 

closed for a few days, test the basement 

if it is used frequently; otherwise test the 

first floor for radon before you repair your 

home. Installing a radon system during 

rehabilitation work can be easier and less 

expensive than adding it later.

} Radon test kits are available from home 

improvement stores. When using a short 

term test, keep all windows and doors 

closed for at least 12 hours before the test 

and as much as possible during the test 

(2-3 days). It’s okay to run a heating or cooling system that circulates indoor air during the 

test period, but don’t run exhaust fans or equipment that bring in outside air. Do not do the 

test during severe storms with high winds. Follow test package directions carefully.

} The EPA recommends fixing a home when the radon level is 4 picocuries per liter (pCi/L) 

or higher. To lower your risk even further, you may want to consider radon reduction if the 

reading is above 2 pCi/L.

PHOTO: Testing to see if a radon mitigation system 

should be included in your restoration plan is inexpensive 

and easy. Radon test kits are available from home 

improvement stores. 

29

Rebuild Healthy Homes

How-to Restoration Guide for a Healthy Home 
} See the Restore for More than Before – Healthy Home Improvements – Keep It Contaminant 

Free section of this guide for methods to add radon resistance to a disaster damaged home.

Any damage to the foundation, basement, crawl space or radon mitigation system (if applicable) 

should be repaired. Even minor cracks, gaps and crevices in a concrete slab or in the walls of 

an enclosed (not vented to the outside) basement or crawl space should be sealed, even if not a 

structural concern.

Should I bring in a professional?

A radon reduction system requires special knowledge and skills. You should use a qualified 

contractor who is trained to fix radon problems and help you choose the right system. Check 

with your state radon office for qualified radon contractors in your area (see www.epa.gov/

radon/whereyoulive.html).

Create a Work Plan

What should I do before beginning work on a damaged home?

A thoughtful work plan saves time, cuts hassle, smoothes 

progress and protects the health and wellbeing of all involved. 

Consider the following components in your plan.

Supplies and Materials

Make a list of all the supplies and materials you will need 

and buy as much of them ahead of time as you can. It may be 

easiest to find supplies outside the disaster area. See Appendix 1

for a general list of supplies and materials. Other items may be 

needed for your specific home. 

Ensure that deliveries and workers will be able to find your address. If street signs or address 

markers are missing, paint your home’s address on the pavement or erect a sign. 

 IMPORTANT! If exterior materials are damaged or missing, temporary weather barriers should be 

installed as soon as possible to prevent water intrusion that could cause further damage. Plan what 

temporary protections are needed (see Prepare Work Site section) and arrange for installation. If 

there was a disaster declaration, find out if you are eligible to have a tarp or other weather barriers 

installed through FEMA disaster assistance programs. Contact your local emergency management 

office to find out.

Electricity

When electricity is not available soon enough, you may want to arrange for a portable generator. 

Get specialized gasoline cans designed for safely storing gasoline to refuel the generators. 

Important:

Be sure all permits and 

approvals are obtained 

before construction 

begins!

Protect Yourself...

First and Foremost

Assess Damages 

and Hazards

Create a 

Work Plan

Prepare the 

Work Site

Clean-Out 

and Tear-Out

Clean and 

Decontaminate

Restore for 

More than Before

30

Rebuild Healthy Homes

How-to Restoration Guide for a Healthy Home 
 CAUTION! Never use gasoline-powered generators indoors. They create a major carbon 

monoxide hazard that can be deadly. They can also pose a fire risk. Plan to place them outside 

as far from the building as possible, and at least 10 feet away from all building openings. Learn 

more about portable generator safety at www.osha.gov.

Solar power generator kits are now available online and at some home improvement centers. 

Small solar chargers can recharge mobile phones, lanterns and some rechargeable power 

tools. Portable high-capacity solar generator kits can provide up to 1,800 watts of power. This 

could provide a safer and more convenient alternative to gasoline generators, since they don’t 

need fuel and don’t produce combustion pollutants. After a major disaster, gasoline can be 

hard to get. 

If the home has electricity, it’s safest to have an electrician install a GFCI (ground fault circuit 

interrupter) outlet box for running the cleaning and restoration equipment. Shut off all other 

electricity until conditions are fully safe.

Storage Areas

Determine where and how much clean storage space is needed for belongings that you are 

saving. Items that have been contaminated must be cleaned before placed into storage. 

Set up a secure storage area to keep tools and supplies safe. Store supplies in an organized manner 

for convenience and safety. Store moisture-sensitive materials on pallets or above the ground. 

Disposal

Find out about your community’s disaster debris disposal guidelines. Monitor the local media or 

check with your area’s Department of Health, Sanitation or Waste Management. Waste should 

normally be sorted for special disposal or pick-up service (see Site Layout section below). 

Hazardous waste needs special disposal and should be separated from other waste. Make sure that 

debris that has lead, asbestos or mold is wrapped or bagged (heavy-duty or double-bagged), sealed, 

labeled and disposed of in accordance with local, state and federal requirements. Construction 

waste, furniture, large appliances, and electronics may also have specialized disposal rules, especially 

after a disaster. 

Ensure that your home debris is properly sorted and discarded. If your home does not receive 

collection service for large debris, make plans to rent a large waste container or have a contractor 

haul the waste to proper disposal sites. 

Site Layout

Draw a site plan layout of how to arrange work stations and sorted debris piles. Follow your 

community’s guidance in sorting waste for disposal, since various types of items may be handled 

Protect Yourself...

First and Foremost

Assess Damages 

and Hazards

Create a 

Work Plan

Prepare the 

Work Site

Clean-Out 

and Tear-Out

Clean and 

Decontaminate

Restore for 

More than Before

31

Rebuild Healthy Homes

How-to Restoration Guide for a Healthy Home 
ILLUSTRATION D

Sample Site Layout

Placing debris near or on trees, 

poles or other structures makes 

removal difficult. This includes 

fire hydrants and meters.

Debris should be 

placed curbside.

Salvaging Station – to sort, clean and save 

possessions

Clean-up, Health and Safety Station – away from 

damage and work areas

Break Station – clean, comfortable area to rest and eat

Electronics Disposal or Recycling – computers, TV’s etc.

Large Appliances – lock, tape or remove doors to prevent 

child entrapment

Hazardous Waste (clearly labeled)

Tree/Plant Waste (near street for mechanical pick-up)

Building Material and Furniture Waste

Household Garbage

Recycle Bins, if available

32

Rebuild Healthy Homes

How-to Restoration Guide for a Healthy Home 
differently. As a general rule, place the debris piles curbside, within 10 feet of the street. Debris should 

not block pathways or roadways. Don’t place debris near trees, poles or other structures that could 

make it difficult to remove.

Unless directed differently, designate separate areas for:

} A salvaging station to sort, clean, and save possessions 

} A break station to rest in a clean, comfortable area away from work areas

} A clean-up, health and safety station away from damage and work areas

} Electronics disposal (potential for recycling or special handling of computers, TVs, etc.) 

} Large appliances disposal (tape shut, lock or remove doors to prevent child entrapment)

} Hazardous waste, clearly labeled (pesticides, chemicals, fluorescent lamps, lead or asbestos 

debris, batteries, oil)

} Plant/tree waste (near street for mechanical pick-up)

} Building material and furniture waste 

} Household garbage

} Recycle bins, if available (paper, aluminum, recyclable plastics).

Selecting Qualified Contractors

Where can I find qualified contractors?

} Check your state’s contractor licensing agency for lists of licensed or registered general and 

specialty contractors.

} Find certified Lead-Safe Renovators in your area at www.epa.gov/lead. 

} Find a link to the agency in your state that lists asbestos professionals at www.epa.gov/asbestos

(see Hire an Asbestos Professional), visit www.nachi.org/asbestos, or contact your local Health 

Department. For accredited asbestos laboratories, visit www.nist.gov and select the Laboratory 

Accreditation (NVLAP) link under Products and Services.

} Check restoration industry groups that list professionals certified in cleaning, fire and water 

damage, mold remediation and related specialties, such as:

• The Restoration Industry Association (www.restorationindustry.org)

• The Institute of Inspection, Cleaning and Restoration Certification (www.certifiedcleaners.org) 

• The American Council for Accredited Certification (www.acac.org).

} To find home builders and remodelers who are members of the National Association of Home 

Builders and its local chapters, visit www.nahb.org. Find members of the National Association of 

the Remodeling Industry at www.nari.org. 

} Check with your insurance company, licensed home inspector or building official for referrals.

Protect Yourself...

First and Foremost

Assess Damages 

and Hazards

Create a 

Work Plan

Prepare the 

Work Site

Clean-Out 

and Tear-Out

Clean and 

Decontaminate

Restore for 

More than Before

33

Rebuild Healthy Homes

How-to Restoration Guide for a Healthy Home 
What should I look for or require from a contractor?

} Many, but not all, states require contractors to be licensed, bonded, registered and/or certified. 

Check with your local building permit office or consumer protection agency to find out local 

requirements. Verify by checking online or calling the authorizing agency. 

} Lead-Safe Certified Renovators have an EPA photo certificate and are listed on the EPA website 

(www.epa.gov/lead).

} Look at websites you trust that post contractor reviews for insights, but keep in mind that extreme 

comments may be unreliable. You can also check a contractor’s online reputation by searching the 

company name with words like “scam,” “rip-off” or “complaint.”

} Check the Better Business Bureau (www.bbb.org) for records of complaints about local firms. Check 

with your state’s attorney general’s office or designated agency for complaints against contractors.

} Try to interview three or more contractors to compare and evaluate their suggested approaches, 

materials and expertise. If you can get multiple quotes, use the same scope of work and materials 

for each estimate.

} Ask each contractor to provide at least three references on similar jobs. 

} Ask contractors for proof of current insurance (a Certificate of Insurance), showing liability, 

worker’s compensation and property damage coverage.

} Once you select a contractor, get a written contract that clearly states:

• The contractor’s obligation to get all required permits, and to maintain insurance

• A detailed scope of work, list of materials, plan for protection during work, and who is 

responsible for site clean-up and debris disposal

• The estimated start and completion dates

• Total cost and schedule of payments (Limit your down payment, and tie payments to 

completion of defined stages of work.)

• A requirement for copies of vendor receipts or a lien waiver (to prevent vendors the contractor 

has not paid from seeking payment from you, after you’ve already paid the contractor)

• An agreement to withhold final payment until completion and satisfactory inspection

• Warranties covering workmanship and materials.

} Following completion of regulatory work or decontamination jobs (such as mold, lead or asbestos 

remediation), get a clearance certificate or report.

What should I avoid when hiring a contractor?

} Avoid door-to-door solicitors who offer restoration work. They are especially common after disasters.

} Avoid contractors who push for a quick decision, making it impossible for you to get competitive 

bids, check licenses, and review references.

Protect Yourself...

First and Foremost

Assess Damages 

and Hazards

Create a 

Work Plan

Prepare the 

Work Site

Clean-Out 

and Tear-Out

Clean and 

Decontaminate

Restore for 

More than Before

34

Rebuild Healthy Homes

How-to Restoration Guide for a Healthy Home 
} Do not hire unlicensed or uninsured contractors. Do not hire contractors who claim to be operating 

under another firm's license or certification, or whose license is from a different state. Check the date 

of a contractor’s license to make sure it has not expired.

} Get a written agreement, not just a verbal agreement. Do not sign an agreement or anything else 

until you have read and clearly understand all the terms.

} Find out about local laws or regulations on contracting for home repairs. Some states have a “right 

of rescission,” often known as a buyer’s remorse rule, that allows a set period of time (usually 3 days) 

in which you can cancel a contract you signed in your home.

} It’s best to avoid making up-front payments to a contractor before work begins. If down payments 

are customary in your area, don’t pay more than 10% or $1,000, whichever is less, of the total cost 

before work begins. Do not let the payment schedule get ahead of work completed. Do not pay for 

materials without copies of receipts or a lien waiver. 

} Do not make the final payment until you are satisfied with the job.

} Never pay cash. Keep a record of all payments.

} Do not hire contractors who recommend fogging or spraying as the method to clean up mold.

Prepare the Work Site

How should I prepare the work site?

A well-prepared work site will help you and other workers be productive and stay safe. This includes: 

protecting a damaged home with temporary weather barriers, providing for basic needs of workers, 

taking some key precautions, setting up a clean-up station, and installing containment barriers to 

isolate the work area from clean areas.

INSTALL TEMPORARY WEATHER BARRIERS

If the roof, exterior walls, windows or doors 

are damaged or missing, cover with temporary 

weather barriers as soon as possible to prevent 

further damage from water entry. 

 CAUTION! Falls from roofs and ladders are 

causes of common post-disaster injuries. Try to 

arrange for a professional installation (or FEMA 

assistance, if you’re eligible). If you must do it 

yourself, don’t work alone. Wear a helmet. Check 

for slippery and weak roof conditions. Use a 

safety harness or other methods to work safely 

on steep slopes. 

Protect Yourself...

First and Foremost

Assess Damages 

and Hazards

Create a 

Work Plan

Prepare the 

Work Site

Clean-Out 

and Tear-Out

Clean and 

Decontaminate

Restore for 

More than Before

PHOTO: FEMA-provided "blue tarp" temporary roof 

protection.

35

Rebuild Healthy Homes

How-to Restoration Guide for a Healthy Home 
Roof: Protect a damaged roof with a heavy tarp, securely attached with wood strips nailed into framing. 

If roof damage is minimal, consider making immediate repairs. You may be able to replace missing 

shingles and use roofing cement or patch products to seal down loose shingles and flashing.

Windows: Cover the exterior of broken windows with heavy (6 mil) clear plastic sheeting to block 

rain, yet admit light. Fold over, tape and secure the edges with wood strips to withstand wind.

Exterior Walls: If any siding, brick veneer or other cladding is missing, cover the damaged section of 

wall with tear-resistant housewrap (weather barrier). Wrap it across the damaged wall in layers from 

the bottom to the top of the wall so the layers overlap shingle-fashion. Secure the housewrap with 

cap nails and seal seams and edges with a compatible construction tape or cover with plywood.

PROVIDE BASICS 

Provide nearby access to:

} Water supply for washing (not contaminated)

} A toilet

} If possible, a place to shower off, especially if there is heavy mold contamination

} Ample drinking water (bottled water or cooler with disposable cups)

} A clean, comfortable place to take breaks away from the work area 

} A safe source of power for tools, lights and equipment (GFCI electric outlet, a solar generator, or 

a gasoline generator placed outside because of the carbon monoxide emissions and fire hazards 

it can create, plus heavy-duty outdoor extension cords)

} Work lights, preferably break-resistant types. A well-lit work site is a safer work site.

TAKE PRECAUTIONS

} Enforce no smoking, eating or drinking within work areas or near debris. Don’t allow children 

in work areas.

} Provide two UL-rated 10ABC fire extinguishers in handy locations.

} Pull out or bend over protruding nails. Safely remove broken glass and other sharp hazards.

} Provide for stable entry and exit paths. Lay plywood on muddy and slippery areas.

} If there is major damage to floors such that they might not be structurally sound, set up 

a plywood pathway throughout the house. Cut the panels into 2-foot by 8-foot sheets to 

assemble the walkways.

Protect Yourself...

First and Foremost

Assess Damages 

and Hazards

Create a 

Work Plan

Prepare the 

Work Site

Clean-Out 

and Tear-Out

Clean and 

Decontaminate

Restore for 

More than Before

36

Rebuild Healthy Homes

How-to Restoration Guide for a Healthy Home 
SET UP A CLEAN-UP STATION

Why do I need a clean-up station?

A clean-up station is the place to wash up before taking a break and before leaving the worksite. It’s 

also the place to treat minor injuries, such as cuts and contact irritants. In hot weather, it is important 

for workers to take breaks every hour to avoid dehydration and heat stress. 

Where should I locate a clean-up station?

It should be outside of the home, if possible. However, if it must be indoors, use a clean area of the 

house that is separated from the work areas.

What should be included in my clean-up station?

Each clean-up, health and safety station should include:

} A well-stocked first aid kit and extra spray antiseptic

} An eye wash station

} A list of emergency phone numbers

} Several clean-up buckets, a pump sprayer, and a supply of clean water

} Hand soap, detergent, and hand sanitizer

} Scrub brushes

} Paper towels

} Trash bin or bags.

• • • HEAT/COLD PRECAUTIONS • • •

Avoid heat stress

Working in hot, humid conditions can quickly cause 

heat stress. To avoid heat exhaustion: 

} Drink lots of water, even when not thirsty.

} Avoid alcoholic beverages and limit caffeine, since 

they further dehydrate you.

} Take breaks often, and rest in a cooler, shady spot.

} Wear lightweight, light-colored, loose-fitting 

clothing made of cotton or other breathable fabric.

} Do the heaviest work at the coolest time of day.

} Minimize working in direct sun. Wear a wide brim 

hat and sunscreen.

When it’s cold...

} Dress in layers.

} Be aware of wind chill. Set up wind blocks, 

wear windbreaker clothing.

} Bring and drink warm fluids, but avoid 

alcohol or caffeine.

} Be aware of symptoms of hypothermia and 

frostbite: shivering, numbness, glassy stare, 

waxy skin.

} Never use unvented heaters indoors or gas ovens 

to heat a home. They can cause dangerous levels 

of carbon monoxide (CO) in a short time. Keep a 

battery-operated CO detector on hand.

Protect Yourself...

First and Foremost

Assess Damages 

and Hazards

Create a 

Work Plan

Prepare the 

Work Site

Clean-Out 

and Tear-Out

Clean and 

Decontaminate

Restore for 

More than Before

37

Rebuild Healthy Homes

How-to Restoration Guide for a Healthy Home 
ILLUSTRATION E

Clean-up, Health and Safety Station

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10

11

1. Rack: Place to hang work clothes, 

goggles, and respirator in clean 

plastic bag.

2. Name tag: Label each hook with 

worker’s name.

3. Clipboard: Emergency phone 

numbers.

4. When there is no running water:

A. Rinse hands in first bucket.

B. Wash hands with soap and rinse 

in second bucket.

C. Final rinse with clean water from 

pump sprayer over third bucket.

5. Soap

6. Pump sprayer of clean water

7. First aid kit with spray antiseptic

8. Eye wash station

9. Trash bin

10. Scrub brush

11. Paper towel dispenser

38

Rebuild Healthy Homes

How-to Restoration Guide for a Healthy Home 
 IMPORTANT! Make sure you have a current tetanus shot (a booster is needed every 10 years). If you 

have not been vaccinated or are unsure, contact your health care provider or local public health clinic.

SET UP CONTAINMENT 

What is containment and why do I need it?

Containment refers to sealing off work areas to isolate them from other areas. It’s important to 

keep clean areas separate from the work areas to minimize the risk of spreading contaminants. 

Where should I set up a containment area?

Set up barriers, such plastic sheeting, in doorways, over vents and other openings to create a 

containment area between the current work area and all adjacent clean areas. If possible, the 

containment area should have a window or other opening to the outdoors.

How should I set up a containment area?

Seal off air vents and any other openings into clean rooms with plastic sheeting or other 

disposable material and tape. Follow these steps to cover the doorways of a containment area. 

} Use 6 mil plastic sheeting to cover doorways. Cut a piece a few inches larger than the door. 

Create a few pleats at the top and bottom to leave slack; tape the sheet to the doorframe with 

masking tape, but not taut. Reinforce the top with duct tape and a staple gun or with furring 

strips nailed so as to avoid damaging molding. The bottom of the sheet should be taped to 

the floor with corners stapled to the bottom of the doorframe or the floor.

} Cut a vertical slit in the center of the plastic sheeting, leaving about 6 inches uncut at the 

top and bottom. Reinforce the ends of the cut with duct tape. This will allow passage through 

the slit.

} Cut a second sheet of plastic as wide as the opening, and tape it to the top of the door on the 

clean room side. Let it hang and trim the bottom so it is a couple of inches from the floor. 

} Create a negative air pressure zone in the work area (pulling work area air to the outdoors). 

One way to do this is to place a box fan in a window opening aimed to blow to the outside, 

and seal around the fan. This will draw dirty work area air outdoors and create suction on the 

door flaps to keep them pressed against the cut opening.

Clean-Out and Tear-Out

How should I clean out a damaged home?

Depending on the types and level of damage, the full process may need to be done in phases. The first 

task is to clean-out by removing contents and residue of the disaster, such as mud, water or ash. The next 

phase is removal of damaged materials, if needed. This can involve gutting and tear-out (demolition). 

Both phases should be completed before cleaning and decontamination efforts.

Protect Yourself...

First and Foremost

Assess Damages 

and Hazards

Create a 

Work Plan

Prepare the 

Work Site

Clean-Out 

and Tear-Out

Clean and 

Decontaminate

Restore for 

More than Before

39

Rebuild Healthy Homes

How-to Restoration Guide for a Healthy Home 
ILLUSTRATION F

Creating a Containment Area Plastic Sheet Flap Seal

1 2

3 4

Cut 6 mil plastic sheeting larger than door.

Pleat for slack and attach to door frame.

Reinforce top and corners.

Cut vertical slit for passage. Tape ends of slit.

Hang second flap on clean room side. Blow air to outdoors – to exhaust dirty air and 

keep flap pulled closed.

Enter closed area by lifting flap and stepping 

through slit.

40

Rebuild Healthy Homes

How-to Restoration Guide for a Healthy Home 
Protect Yourself...

First and Foremost

Assess Damages 

and Hazards

Create a 

Work Plan

Prepare the 

Work Site

Clean-Out 

and Tear-Out

Clean and 

Decontaminate

Restore for 

More than Before

Helpful Hint:

Avoid skin contact with 

sediment, which may 

contain toxic chemicals 

and bacteria.

REMOVING CONTENTS

What should I do first to clean out the home?

After it is safe to enter the damaged building, wear personal 

protective equipment (PPE) and open doors and windows to air 

it out for 30 minutes before you start work. 

 IMPORTANT! Select and wear PPE that is appropriate to protect 

you from all the possible hazards in the home and the work 

activities you tackle (see PPE and Assess Health Hazards sections).

If the home was flooded:

} Keep electricity turned off and use a gasoline or solar powered pump to remove water. If using a 

gasoline pump, keep it outside the house.

} If there is more than six inches of water in a basement or crawl space, pump it out slowly. More 

damage could be caused by unequal pressures, causing walls to cave in or floors to push up. Pump 

out a third of the water per day for three days. Discharge it far away from the building.

} If the home contains mud and silt, shovel it out before it dries and hardens.

} When possible, dry building materials and contents quickly (within three days) to prevent mold 

growth. Materials dry faster when relative humidity is low. If it’s safe to do so, run a heater or air 

conditioner, plus a dehumidifier and fans, to speed the drying process. (Note: If mold is already 

present, do not use fans or central air since that could spread mold spores to clean areas.)

For fire and smoke:

} There may be a large amount of ash to remove. Note that it can be an irritant or be contaminated, 

so wear an N95 or higher respirator.

} Very gently push the ash with a broom into bags or boxes for disposal. Avoid vigorous sweeping 

to minimize ash in the air. Follow with damp mopping, then a HEPA vacuum, if available.

} Don’t wash ash or soot into storm drains. 

For all damaged homes:

} Do not attempt to remove objects that might cause debris piles or the structure to shift or fall. 

If collapse could happen, seek professional help or equipment.

} Open or remove window treatments to allow maximum light and ventilation. 

} Carefully remove hazardous waste including chemicals, pesticides, fuels, damaged batteries, 

paints, damaged fluorescent lights, etc. Do not handle leaking containers of hazardous material; 

contact your local waste management or emergency management office.

} Carry materials the shortest possible distance to their storage or disposal location to reduce 

cross-contamination.

41

Rebuild Healthy Homes

How-to Restoration Guide for a Healthy Home 
Helpful Hint:

Watch out for exposed 

nails and splintered 

edges.

Furniture

What furniture should I remove?

Remove all wet, moldy and damaged furniture from the 

building. Pieces that can be salvaged are best cleaned outdoors 

and repaired before being returned inside the home. 

How should I remove the furniture?

Use dollies or wheelbarrows to remove damaged or wet 

furniture since it may be weakened. Flooded pieces made of pressboard or particleboard 

could collapse when moved. If possible, take them apart before moving them.

What furniture can I save?

} Solid wood case goods, metal, plastic and some plywood furniture and cabinets that are in sound 

condition may be cleaned and restored outdoors or off-site. Take wet furniture outside and remove 

all removable parts, such as drawers. If muddy, hose off then place in a protected area out of direct 

sunlight to dry slowly until it can be restored.

} Discard upholstered furniture and mattresses that were contaminated by floodwater, fire, smoke, 

toxic chemicals or settled asbestos fibers. Valuable pieces you want to try to salvage must have the 

foam and upholstery replaced.

} Valuable upholstered pieces that have been wet less than two days from clean rain water or 

plumbing leaks may be dryable with professional water extraction and drying equipment. 

Appliances and Fixtures

What appliances and fixtures should I remove?

Damaged appliances, those with water trapped in insulation or inaccessible cavities, and any 

equipment and electrical fixtures exposed to salt water should be removed for proper disposal. 

How should I remove the appliances and fixtures?

} Do not move large appliances on light duty handcarts, because they can easily tip over. 

Tie appliances onto a dolly. 

} Tape or tie flooded refrigerators shut before moving them, to avoid spilling spoiled food, 

and to prevent child entrapment. 

What appliances and fixtures should I save?

} Unbroken plumbing fixtures such as sinks, toilets, and bathtubs can be cleaned in place. 

} Some appliances that got wet or exposed to residue may be salvageable, such as laundry 

equipment, dishwashers with replaceable insulation, and microwave ovens. However, they 

should be inspected and serviced by a professional before use.

Protect Yourself...

First and Foremost

Assess Damages 

and Hazards

Create a 

Work Plan

Prepare the 

Work Site

Clean-Out 

and Tear-Out

Clean and 

Decontaminate

Restore for 

More than Before

42

Rebuild Healthy Homes

How-to Restoration Guide for a Healthy Home 
} Undamaged, cleanable lighting fixtures and ceiling fans may be inspected and saved if 

they have not been exposed to salt water. 

} Appliances with floodwater, ash or other contaminants trapped inside should be discarded.

Carpeting and Rugs

What carpeting should be removed?

} Remove all wet or contaminated carpeting, rugs and padding.

} Discard all wet padding. Discard flooded wall-to-wall carpeting (see exception below).

} All carpeting, rugs and other absorbent floor coverings contaminated with lead dust, asbestos 

or toxic chemicals should be sealed in heavy-duty plastic wrap, labeled and discarded as 

hazardous waste. (See Assess Health Hazards and Disposal sections.)

} Dry but damaged carpeting can remain on the floor as a “tarp” to catch debris and protect the 

subfloor when you remove building materials from the walls and ceilings. 

How should I remove the carpeting?

Cut carpet into strips a few feet wide, roll them up, and take outside. Rolling wet carpet rolls 

onto an old blanket or tarp can make them easier to drag. 

What carpeting can I save?

Valuable rugs that got wet or dirty (and are free 

of lead dust, asbestos or toxic chemicals) can be 

hosed off, draped to dry outdoors, and brought 

to a rug cleaner for disinfection, cleaning and 

drying. Washable rugs can be laundered with 

color-safe bleach, dried and stored until work is 

complete. If you want to salvage valuable rugs 

that are contaminated with lead, asbestos or 

chemicals, seal them in 6 mil plastic sheeting 

for pick-up by a hazardous materials firm for 

cleaning off-site.

Wall-to-wall carpeting that was wet with only 

clean or gray water and does not have heavy 

mold may be cleaned with sanitizing carpet 

cleaner, dried and reinstalled by a professional. 

However, wet carpet padding should always be 

discarded and replaced. Wall-to-wall carpeting 

flooded by contaminated black water should be 

discarded.

• • •

CLEAN, GRAY AND BLACK WATER

Clean-up procedures and what you can salvage 

from water damage depends on the type of water. 

Clean water includes rainwater, leaks from broken 

water supply lines, and tub or sink overflows 

with no containments. Gray water or unsanitary 

water may include leaks from dishwashers or 

washing machines, punctured waterbeds or broken 

aquariums. Black water contains disease-causing 

(pathogenic) agents and is extremely unsanitary; 

it includes flooding from seawater, rivers or 

other rising stormwater. Gray water that remains 

untreated for longer than 48 hours can change to 

the black water category as microorganisms multiply. 

Protect Yourself...

First and Foremost

Assess Damages 

and Hazards

Create a 

Work Plan

Prepare the 

Work Site

Clean-Out 

and Tear-Out

Clean and 

Decontaminate

Restore for 

More than Before

43

Rebuild Healthy Homes

How-to Restoration Guide for a Healthy Home 
Small Objects

What small objects should I remove?

} Remove all items that will be either discarded 

or cleaned. Sort into separate bags and areas.

} Discard porous items exposed to floodwater 

or other contaminants that cannot be safely 

laundered and decontaminated. Examples of 

materials to discard include cosmetics, food 

(other than intact canned goods), stuffed 

toys and throw pillows, non-valuable paper 

products, particleboard shelves, etc. 

} Dispose of electronic and electrical items 

exposed to salt water or other corrosives.

How should I remove the small objects?

Place all small items in heavy-duty trash bags to minimize the release and spread of contaminated 

residue or mold on them. Electronics and hazardous waste (batteries, contaminated items, etc.) 

should be bagged with similar waste, labeled and disposed according to local waste handling 

guidelines.

What small objects should I save?

} In general, undamaged non-porous items can be cleaned and saved. This applies to items made of 

china, glass, porcelain, metal, hard stone, and hard plastics that don’t have trapped water inside. 

Any items exposed to floodwater or sewage will need to be disinfected with a product that is safe 

for the material.

} Solid wood items are cleanable and may be restorable if not warped, split or damaged. 

} Fabrics not exposed to asbestos or toxic chemicals can be laundered or dry cleaned. Fabrics 

contaminated by asbestos or toxic chemicals should be disposed of as hazardous waste.

} Valuable art, photos, books and legal documents with limited water, mold or soot damage may 

be restorable by professional restoration services. In the meantime, they should be removed 

and spread out where they can dry away from direct sunlight. Contact a restorer for additional 

guidance.

GUTTING AND TEAR-OUT (DEMOLITION)

After contents are removed, it’s time to remove damaged building materials that will not be restored. 

This is known as the demolition phase. It may range from only minimal tear-out of isolated damage 

to complete gutting of walls and/or ceilings and floorings to remove wet insulation, subflooring or 

other damage.

PHOTO: Bag small items for disposal to reduce spread of 

mold and other contaminants.

Protect Yourself...

First and Foremost

Assess Damages 

and Hazards

Create a 

Work Plan

Prepare the 

Work Site

Clean-Out 

and Tear-Out

Clean and 

Decontaminate

Restore for 

More than Before

44

Rebuild Healthy Homes

How-to Restoration Guide for a Healthy Home 
Cabinets, Shelves, Doors, and Trims

Should I remove cabinets, shelves, doors, 

and trims?

} Built-ins, like kitchen cabinets and 

entertainment centers, should be removed if 

the attached walls were structurally damaged, 

or were flooded and contain insulation. Flooded 

walls with insulation will need to be opened to 

repair or remove insulation and allow cleaning 

and drying of wall cavities. 

} Water-damaged built-ins and trim made 

of particleboard or other water-sensitive 

materials should be removed and discarded, 

since they are likely weakened. Solid lumber 

and plywood tend to retain strength and may be 

saved (but may need to be cleaned and slowly dried).

} Remove doors and trim that are swollen from being wet, if 

not needed for security. If you need to keep them in place, 

keep them closed and facilitate slow drying in place. 

} Metal and fiberglass-skin insulated doors and sliding doors 

that are undamaged and operate properly may be left and 

cleaned in place. Inspect for wood edges that might be 

damaged, and corrosion of metal from exposure to salt 

water or chemicals.

} Carefully remove and try to save antique and historic 

home materials since they may remain valuable and usually are constructed with high quality 

woods and joinery better able than modern materials to withstand damage. Consider consulting 

professional restoration services.

How should I remove cabinets, shelves, doors, and trims?

} Remove doors from hinges. Doors to be restored should be laid flat on pallets where they can dry 

slowly out of direct sunlight to minimize warping. Solid wood will shrink as it dries, and may be 

restorable if not too warped or split.

} Damaged doors and flooded hollow interior doors should be discarded.

} Remove trim you hope to salvage by prying gently with a crowbar. Remove protruding nails for 

safety and lay trim flat where it can dry out of direct sun. If discarding trim, bend protruding nails 

during removal to prevent future puncture wounds.

} Tape cabinet doors closed, then work in teams to detach and move large and heavy built-ins. 

If wet, remove shelves and open doors to dry before removal.

• • •

IMPORTANT!

During gutting and tear-out activities, give special 

attention to guidelines for avoiding exposure to 

and the spread of lead paint dust, asbestos, mold, 

fibrous insulation, and ash. See Assess Health 

Hazards section. 

Do NOT remove structural, load-bearing parts 

of any walls, floors, or roofs without technical 

assistance from a qualified professional. 

Helpful Hint:

Use multiple layers of 

disposable tarp taped to 

the floor to catch debris 

from interior gutting. As 

needed, the top layer can 

be rolled or folded and 

sealed for removal and 

disposal of the debris.

Protect Yourself...

First and Foremost

Assess Damages 

and Hazards

Create a 

Work Plan

Prepare the 

Work Site

Clean-Out 

and Tear-Out

Clean and 

Decontaminate

Restore for 

More than Before

45

Rebuild Healthy Homes

How-to Restoration Guide for a Healthy Home 
Ceilings

Should I remove ceilings?

} If the ceiling is bulged, dripping water, crumbling, or has heavy mold growth, those segments 

should usually be replaced. However, if it might contain asbestos, do not automatically remove 

it. A “popcorn” ceiling treatment or ceiling tiles in some homes built before 1980 could contain 

asbestos. Consult an asbestos professional to assess the situation and determine the safest 

solution.

} If the ceiling appears undamaged, is free of saturated insulation, and does not have substantial 

or long-term mold growth on either side of the ceiling, it may be left in place and restored.

How should I remove drywall, plaster or ceiling tiles from ceilings?

} Be alert to the potential for collapse from heavy, wet insulation or structural damage. 

} Disconnect and remove light fixtures, ceiling fans, speakers, smoke detectors, etc., from the ceiling 

before removing ceiling material.

} If possible, set up a plywood platform in the attic and work from above the ceiling. Cut out the 

damaged area and allow it to drop to the tarp on the floor.

} If you must work from below the ceiling, use a ladder tall enough to allow you to get your head 

above the ceiling (once some ceiling is removed) with your hips no higher than the top of the 

ladder. This prevents the ceiling from coming down on top of you. Use a long saw to cut out a 

section and a crowbar to push it down. Try to keep your head above the ceiling surface.

Walls

Should I remove interior wall materials?

Dry interior wall materials (typically drywall, plaster on older homes, or paneling) can normally be 

cleaned and patched. 

• • • C A U T I O N ! • • •

If a ceiling or wall is moldy, insulated, or may have lead-based paint, set up containment and wear personal 

protective equipment (PPE) before doing any gutting work. (See Containment guidelines in Prepare the Work Site

and Protect Yourself sections.)

It’s helpful to cover sections of ceiling or wall material with thin plastic sheeting before removal to prevent a massive 

release of mold spores or lead dust into the air. (Refer to mold and lead precautions and resources in Assess Health 

Hazards section.) Do NOT tear out surfaces that may contain asbestos. Consult an asbestos professional to assess the 

situation and determine the safest solution. 

If gutting reveals insulated pipes (especially hot water pipes) in homes built before 1980, the insulation might 

contain asbestos. Refer to asbestos precautions and resources in Assess Health Hazards section.

Protect Yourself...

First and Foremost

Assess Damages 

and Hazards

Create a 

Work Plan

Prepare the 

Work Site

Clean-Out 

and Tear-Out

Clean and 

Decontaminate

Restore for 

More than Before

46

Rebuild Healthy Homes

How-to Restoration Guide for a Healthy Home 
If there was flooding, water leaks, heavy mold growth, or structural damage to walls, partial or full 

removal is recommended. 

} Insulated walls: Insulation inside walls that flooded must be removed, since it holds water and 

can lead to hidden mold, decay and insect infestation. The interior wall finish should be removed 

to the “wicking line” (where water soaked above the flood level) or higher. Remove all wet and 

moldy insulation. (Exception: Non-porous types of insulation, such as closed cell foam, do not 

absorb water so may be kept in place.)

} Drywall: Standard gypsum drywall has paper facings, a food source for mold. If there is heavy or 

long-term mold growth that penetrates the paper facing, or the drywall has lost strength, it should 

be replaced. If there is no insulation in the wall, and little or no mold growth, it may be reasonable 

to clean and speed-dry it to avoid replacement. (Note: There remains risk of hidden mold in the 

wall cavity, so this is not advised where occupants are especially sensitive to mold.)

} Plaster: Plaster is more water-resistant than drywall and does not contain paper. It also may have 

historical value in old homes. Many old homes have no insulation, so it can be feasible to clean and 

dry the plaster, since empty wall cavities typically dry quickly. Consult renovation resources for 

methods to patch and restore damaged old plaster.

} Paneling: Paneling should be removed, since it can usually be cleaned, dried and reinstalled after 

the wall cavities have been cleaned and dried.

} Wallpaper: Wallpaper, especially vinyl wallpaper, should always be removed from any wall that 

got wet. Vinyl wallpaper should not be replaced since it hampers drying and can cause hidden 

moisture problems in air conditioned homes.

How should I remove interior wall material?

Remove items mounted to walls and the face plates of switches and outlets before removing wall 

finishes.

Trim and Paneling

} To remove without causing damage, gently pry loose any molding, window trim and paneling 

using a crowbar or hammer claws. 

} Remove protruding nails and screws if the material will be saved. Bend them over if it will be 

discarded.

Drywall

} Mark a line and cut drywall at a panel seam (normally at 4-foot intervals) above the flood wicking 

line. This simplifies installation of new panels with less trimming and waste, since they tend to be 

4-foot by 8-foot sheets. Cut the drywall with a drywall saw or reciprocating saw (trim the blade so 

its depth equals drywall thickness to avoid cutting studs, wiring, etc.).

} Remove drywall in large pieces to minimize dust and place in sturdy garbage bags for disposal. 

} Remove nails and screws from the studs.

Protect Yourself...

First and Foremost

Assess Damages 

and Hazards

Create a 

Work Plan

Prepare the 

Work Site

Clean-Out 

and Tear-Out

Clean and 

Decontaminate

Restore for 

More than Before

47

Rebuild Healthy Homes

How-to Restoration Guide for a Healthy Home 
Plaster

} Cut through the plaster and lath between studs with a reciprocating saw. ( CAUTION! Joint 

compound in old plaster walls and ceilings may contain asbestos. Refer to asbestos precautions in 

the Assess Health Hazards section.)

} Use a pry bar to pull plaster and lath away from the studs. Bundle the lath separately and discard. 

Shovel plaster piles into large cans or heavy-duty bags for disposal.

Floors

Should I remove flooring?

} Do NOT remove identified or suspected vinyl asbestos tile, even if damaged. See asbestos repair in 

Assess Health Hazards section.

} Remove burned or damaged non-asbestos flooring.

For flooded homes:

} Remove flooded floor coverings that contain paper or composite wood backings (most sheet vinyl, 

laminate and engineered wood floorings), or that has separated from the subfloor or slab.

} Flood-resistant floorings that may be able to stay in place include ceramic/porcelain tile; solid 

vinyl tile, inlaid sheet vinyl and linoleum with no paper backing; brick/stone/terrazzo/concrete; 

and solid wood plank flooring.

} Any type of flooring installed on water-sensitive subflooring, such as oriented strand board (OSB) 

panels, may need to be removed to replace water-damaged subflooring. Solid wood and plywood 

subflooring can often withstand flooding, but may swell when wet and cause temporary buckling.

} Solid wood planks swell when wet, but can be saved if they can dry out in both directions. 

Polyurethane finishes impede top-side drying. Carefully remove a plank every few feet to reduce 

buckling caused by the swelling. If planks are tongue-and-groove, consult a flooring professional. 

} Allow wood subflooring or concrete slab to dry thoroughly before installing new flooring. Blowing 

air beneath the wood, when possible, can speed the drying process. Use a pin-type wood moisture 

meter to check moisture level periodically until the reading remains stable and the subfloor wood 

is at equilibrium (8 to 15%, depending on your area’s climate). Wood moisture meters are available 

from some hardware stores, home improvement stores, tool suppliers and online vendors.

Insulation

Should I remove insulation?

} All wet and moldy fibrous and open cell foam insulation must be removed and discarded. NEVER 

leave wet insulation in place, even if it is wet with clean water and the interior wallboard appears 

dry. It will hold water and cause long-term problems. Wet fibrous insulation also loses 

its insulating value.

Protect Yourself...

First and Foremost

Assess Damages 

and Hazards

Create a 

Work Plan

Prepare the 

Work Site

Clean-Out 

and Tear-Out

Clean and 

Decontaminate

Restore for 

More than Before

48

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How-to Restoration Guide for a Healthy Home 
} Closed-cell rigid foam board or spray foam 

(2 lb. density) insulations are not absorbent, 

and can remain in place if they do not 

prevent drying of other materials and have 

no damage.

} Remove all fire-damaged insulation. Where 

walls are opened in a smoke-damaged home, 

replace insulation that absorbed smoke odor. 

How should I remove insulation?

 CAUTION! Fiberglass and mineral insulation 

fibers can become airborne. Wear full personal 

protective equipment and avoid activities that 

create and spread mineral or glass fibers.

} Cut batts and open cell spray foam above the 

flood level with a utility knife and remove sections that became wet even if no longer wet at the 

top. Water migrates downward, but contaminants can be retained and insulating value is reduced 

after wetting.

} For loose-fill and dense-pack insulation, install a temporary dam material to hold the dry 

insulation in place. Scoop out any wet, matted and moldy insulation.

} Remove insulation directly into heavy duty trash bags for disposal.

Exterior Claddings

Should exterior cladding materials be removed?

} Most exterior wall claddings (siding, brick veneer, etc.) that appear undamaged can remain in 

place. Remain alert to signs of water leakage into wall framing, especially at windows, interior 

corners and overhangs. Claddings without a drainable gap behind them, such as some stucco 

systems, are more prone to moisture problems.

} When reroofing, existing roofing material should be removed before installing new material.

} Exception: Do NOT remove damaged asbestos cement siding or roofing, unless it is done by 

a qualified asbestos professional. It’s usually best to cover it with new siding. See asbestos 

procedures in Assess Health Hazards section.

PHOTO: Remove all wet or fire-damaged insulation, even 

if wallboard appears to have dried.

Protect Yourself...

First and Foremost

Assess Damages 

and Hazards

Create a 

Work Plan

Prepare the 

Work Site

Clean-Out 

and Tear-Out

Clean and 

Decontaminate

Restore for 

More than Before

49

Rebuild Healthy Homes

How-to Restoration Guide for a Healthy Home 
Clean and Decontaminate

MOLD

What should we do to safely remove mold and keep it from returning?

When you’re unable to hire a trained professional to remove mold in your water-damaged home, 

use these 10 steps for do-it-yourselfers (DIY) to tackle the job as safely and effectively as possible. 

Copy the 10 Steps fact sheet (pages 51 to 52) on both sides of a single sheet of paper and give one to 

each worker to read and follow.

SURFACE CLEANING AND TREATMENT

How should I prepare surfaces for cleaning?

} If walls or ceilings were gutted, remove all 

remaining protruding nails and/or screws, 

any residual insulation and pieces of drywall 

or plaster from framing. 

} If silt from flooding remains, hose it out 

unless the water would rewet vulnerable 

materials. If so, remove the silt with a shop 

vacuum or sweep into a bag-lined container 

for disposal.

How should I clean interior surfaces and wall cavities?

For flooded or moldy surfaces:

} Clean with a non-phosphate detergent solution, since any remaining phosphate residue provides 

food for mold.

} Damp-wipe cleanable surfaces to remove soil and mold first, before disinfecting. Disinfectants are 

less effective on dirty surfaces. Try to avoid saturating materials that have dried.

} Disinfect flood- and sewage-contaminated surfaces with a product suitable to the material. 

 CAUTION! Disinfectants are hazardous products. Read and follow label instructions.

• A V-cup concentrated chlorine bleach to a gallon of water is an inexpensive disinfectant usable 

on non-metal and colorfast surfaces. It may be lightly sprayed inside wall cavities. Weaker 

solutions may be used as a sanitizer. 

• Other less corrosive disinfectants, such as alcohols, hydrogen peroxide and quaternary 

ammonium, are readily available alternatives.

} Once dry, vacuum surfaces with a HEPA vacuum cleaner, including electric outlet boxes and open 

ducts. A back-pack vacuum is ideal for working from ladders. Use a corner tool to reach tight spaces.

} An alternative method for removing mold from wall cavities and wood framing without rewetting 

is professional soda blasting. Other alternative products include commercial fungicidal coatings 

that can kill mold, and fungistat or mildewstat coatings that inhibit mold growth.

• • •

WARNING

Never mix chlorine bleach with ammonia or acids. 

Do not use in the heating and air system, since it is 

corrosive. Do not use chlorine bleach on fine wood 

furnishings since it can raise the grain.

Protect Yourself...

First and Foremost

Assess Damages 

and Hazards

Create a 

Work Plan

Prepare the 

Work Site

Clean-Out 

and Tear-Out

Clean and 

Decontaminate

Restore for 

More than Before

50

Rebuild Healthy Homes

How-to Restoration Guide for a Healthy Home 
10 Steps

for Safe and Effective DIY Mold Removal

10 Steps 

for Safe and Effective DIY Mold Removal

1. Wear Protective Gear

People are exposed to mold by breathing 

spores and by skin contact. Wear gloves, 

goggles and a NIOSH-approved respirator 

rated N95 or higher. Some respirators have 

valves to make it easier to breathe. A properly 

fitted half-face N100 respirator with filter 

cartridges provides greater protection and 

comfort than the mask types.

2. Isolate Work Area and Ventilate to Outdoors

Disturbing mold colonies during clean-up 

can cause a huge release of spores into the 

air, so seal off the moldy areas from the 

rest of the house. Open windows, and don’t 

run the central heating or air conditioning 

system during clean-up. Tape plastic over air 

grilles, and drape plastic in stairwells if other 

levels are dry and clean. If you have power, 

put a box fan in a window to blow out and 

exhaust mold-filled air to the outdoors. 

3. Remove Moldy Porous Materials

Porous moldy or sewage-contaminated 

materials should be removed, put in plastic 

bags and discarded. To reduce the release 

and spread of mold spores, it is helpful to 

cover moldy material with plastic sheeting 

before disturbing it. 

• Remove all flooded carpeting, upholstery, 

fabrics and mattresses right away. It’s 

best to discard them, but if you hope to 

salvage a valuable rug or furniture, have 

it professionally cleaned, disinfected and 

dried. Tell the cleaner about the mold and 

its cause. Never reuse flooded padding.

• Remove all wet fibrous and open cell foam 

insulation – even if wallboard appears to 

be dry. Wet insulation will stay wet far 

too long, leading to the growth of hidden 

mold and wood decay inside the walls. Cut 

wall covering above the level that was wet; 

water can wick up above the flood level. 

• It’s best to remove all moldy, porous 

materials (except solid wood), especially if 

there is heavy or long-term mold growth, 

such as paper-faced drywall and flooring, 

processed wood products, ceiling tiles and 

paper products. 

• Plaster and non-paper faced drywall walls 

that have dried, are in good condition and 

have no insulation in the wall may be 

cleaned and sanitized to salvage them. 

However, there is a risk of mold on the 

backside that can release spores into the 

indoor air. If you choose to restore these 

materials, try to seal all interior gaps to be 

airtight before repainting.

• Remove all vinyl wallpaper and any other 

materials that hamper drying. Interiorside vapor barriers or foil-faced insulation 

should be removed.

4. Clean and Disinfect

Surface mold can be cleaned from non-porous 

materials such as china, hard plastic, glass and 

metal; solid wood can also be cleaned since 

mold grows only on its surface. Cleaning 

should remove mold, not just kill it, because 

dead spores can still cause health problems.

Rebuild Healthy Homes

10 Steps for Safe and Effective DIY Mold Removal
If there was flooding or sewage contamination, disinfection is a must. Follow label 

directions and warnings, handle carefully, 

wear rubber gloves, and never mix bleach 

with ammonia or acids. Many disinfectants, 

including bleach, can kill molds, but do not 

prevent regrowth of new colonies when 

materials stay damp.

• Remove any sediment. Hose out opened 

wall cavities, if necessary.

• Wash dirty or moldy materials with 

non-phosphate, all-purpose cleaners, 

because phosphate residue is mold food. 

Rough surfaces may need to be scrubbed. 

Rinse, but avoid high-pressure spray.

• If available, use a HEPA-filtered vacuum 

(not a regular vacuum) to remove dust 

and mold residue.

• Disinfect wall cavities and other materials 

after cleaning. Soil can make some 

disinfectants, including bleach, less 

effective. On colorfast, non-metal surfaces, 

a solution of V-cup concentrated chlorine 

laundry bleach per gallon of water can 

disinfect. Do not use bleach in the air 

conditioning system. Milder, less corrosive 

disinfectants include alcohols, quaternary 

ammoniums and hydrogen peroxide.

5. Consider Borate Treatment

Applying a borate treatment to wood framing 

provides resistance to termites and decay, 

and may inhibit mold growth. The type that 

penetrates the wood over time offers greatest 

protection. Do NOT apply sealants that can 

hamper drying. 

6. Ventilate

After cleaning and disinfecting, air out the 

building. Use fans in windows to pull mold 

spores to the outdoors.

7. Speed Dry

Dry all wet materials as quickly as possible. 

Close windows and if possible run the air 

conditioning or heat and use a dehumidifier. 

If there is no power, keep windows open.

8. Remain on Mold Alert

Continue looking for signs of dampness 

and new mold growth. Mold can form in as 

little as 2 to 3 days if materials stay damp. 

Wood and other materials that may look 

dry can still be wet enough to support new 

growth. If mold returns, repeat cleaning 

and use speed drying equipment and 

moisture meters. Regrowth may signal that 

the materials aren’t dry enough or should 

be removed. 

9. Do Not Restore until All Materials Have 

Dried Completely

Wood moisture content should be less than

16% (get a wood moisture meter). Do NOT 

use vinyl wallpaper, oil-based paint or other 

finishes that block drying to the inside. 

10. Restore with Flood-Resistant Materials

If possible, restore with materials that can 

withstand a flood with less damage. Use 

closed-cell foam insulation that does not 

absorb water and solid wood or waterresistant structural materials. Elevate 

wiring and equipment. Consider removable 

wainscoting or paperless drywall, and 

water-tolerant flooring such as ceramic 

tile, solid wood, stained concrete, etc. Some 

new wallboard materials may be more 

mold-resistant.
For surfaces with lead-based paint:

} Review lead-safe work practices guidelines (in Assess Health Hazards section and at 

www.epa.gov/lead). Remove any loose or eroded paint with lead-safe methods before cleaning – 

either by wet scraping or with a HEPA vacuum attachment. 

} Damp-wipe with household cleaning products. Do not sweep or use a non-HEPA vacuum cleaner.

} Wrap lead debris in plastic bags or sheeting and seal tight for disposal.

For fire and smoke damage:

Soot can be oily and easily stain textiles and porous materials. If possible, hire a professional fire 

damage restoration professional. If that isn’t feasible, try these methods:

} To clean soot from smooth surfaces, skim items with the suction-only nozzle (no beater brush) of 

a vacuum cleaner with a HEPA (high efficiency particulate air) filter to let suction pull off the soot. 

} To clean dry soil and soot in carpeting, use a HEPA vacuum with a beater brush.

} Safely use a dry chemical sponge (sold by cleaning supply companies), rubbing alcohol, or other 

non-water based cleaner to wipe light soot from drywall, bare wood and other porous surfaces. 

} For light, dry soot on plaster walls, avoid a water-based cleaner since it can cause stains to bleed 

into the wall. When there is heavy residue, wet soot, or plastic or rubber residue, plaster walls may 

need to be washed then sealed with a stain blocker before repainting.

} Use a household cleaning detergent in water for hard materials like tile, countertops, sealed wood, 

glass, metal and appliances.

} Clean plastics with a mild alkali detergent to remove and neutralize possible acidic soot. Acidic 

soot can be activated by humidity to cause permanent staining.

} Avoid scented deodorizers that only mask smoke odor and add chemicals to the air. Clean or 

replace materials, repeatedly launder fabrics, and ventilate to reduce odor. If odor lingers, try 

wiping with vinegar or baking soda, set out activated carbon or use odor absorbing products.

Restore for More than Before 

Can the work, time and expense that goes into repairing your damaged home have a silver lining? If 

you restore for more than before, you can be rewarded with a stronger, safer, more resilient, durable, 

comfortable, convenient and healthy home. 

Take control of your future! Consider these home improvements in your restoration or rebuilding 

plan, and in future home renovation plans.

Protect Yourself...

First and Foremost

Assess Damages 

and Hazards

Create a 

Work Plan

Prepare the 

Work Site

Clean-Out 

and Tear-Out

Clean and 

Decontaminate

Restore for 

More than Before

53

Rebuild Healthy Homes

How-to Restoration Guide for a Healthy Home 
RESILIENT HOME IMPROVEMENTS

Durable and resilient home improvements 

are your best defense against Mother Nature’s 

destructive side. That includes not only disasters, 

but the toll that normal rain, sun, heat, cold, and 

insects take on your home and your wallet.

Borate treatment of structural wood – 

for pest, decay and mold resistance.

Borate treatments are a safer, eco-friendly 

alternative to toxic pesticides and wood 

preservatives. They can provide long-term 

protection from decay and destructive insects, 

including termites, carpenter ants and powder 

post beetles. Some borate compounds can 

also deter mold growth while waiting for 

wood to dry after cleaning. Some products 

are formulated to treat mold. 

Walls that have had to be opened present a golden opportunity to treat structural wood not 

normally accessible. 

} Spray or brush a penetrating type of borate solution on the bottom two feet of open wall cavities, 

on subflooring and under floors. Try to get it into joints and gaps. It will not harm metals. 

} In termite risk areas, treating the interior concrete foundation and basement walls (bottom two 

feet) can deter termite tunneling. 

} Borate solutions can be applied to any bare, unfinished wood. Borate treatment is not suitable for 

wood in contact with soil or left unfinished outdoors, since water can leach out the borate.

Flood-resistant features – so the 

next flood does far less damage.

Making your home resistant to flood damage 

means you can clean-up and move back in 

quickly, with minimal tear-out, replacement, cost 

and ordeal. It’s not an all or nothing approach. 

Any of the following you can do will reduce future 

flood damage and the resulting health hazards.

Backflow Prevention

} Have a licensed plumber install sewage 

backflow valves in the drain line to protect 

your home and health. Even minor flash 

floods in the vicinity can cause sewage 

back-up.

Helpful Hints:

Explore www.fema.gov, 

www.disastersafety.org and 

www.flash.org for more detailed 

information about hazard-resistant 

home improvements, materials and 

construction methods. You can find 

out your termite, wind and seismic 

(earthquake) risk levels by checking 

with your local building official 

or looking up the risk maps in the 

International Residential Code (IRC) 

available online at www.iccsafe.org. 

Your home’s flood risk is shown on 

FEMA flood maps (available at 

msc.fema.gov).

PHOTO: Install a plumbing backflow valve to prevent 

sewage back-up.

Protect Yourself...

First and Foremost

Assess Damages 

and Hazards

Create a 

Work Plan

Prepare the 

Work Site

Clean-Out 

and Tear-Out

Clean and 

Decontaminate

Restore for 

More than Before

54

Rebuild Healthy Homes

How-to Restoration Guide for a Healthy Home 
Damage-resistant materials

} Restore with flood-resistant replacement materials, which also tend to be less vulnerable to 

mold. FEMA evaluates and publishes detailed information about flood-resistant materials 

(see www.fema.gov). Examples include:

• Floorings: Porcelain or glazed ceramic tile, solid vinyl tile or inlaid sheet vinyl 

with no paper backing; waterproof adhesives and mortars; decorative concrete, 

terrazzo, stone, brick, solid hardwood planks (not coated with polyurethane or other 

impermeable finish); exterior grade plywood subflooring.

• Interior walls: Paperless (fiberglass mat-faced) gypsum drywall with a moisture 

resistant core; removable wainscoting made of solid wood, plywood or fiber-cement 

panels; removable or composite trim. (Note: Finish with latex paint and never use 

vinyl wallpaper since it can trap moisture in walls and lead to hidden mold.)

• Exterior cladding: Brick veneer; fiber-cement, vinyl, aluminum, or high-tech 

moisture-resistant composite sidings and trim with long warranties.

• Openings: Metal or fiberglass-skin doors with closed cell insulation cores and 

composite framing; metal, fiberglass or vinyl frame windows.

• Elevate appliances, equipment, wiring and outlets above the potential flood 

level. Place water heaters and A/C compressors on sturdy platforms. Wall ovens 

and front-loading laundry equipment placed on a platform or drawer unit could 

protect them from shallow floods.

Foundations

} Hire a qualified professional to evaluate, repair and reinforce basement and 

foundation walls to withstand the pressures of flooding. Cracked or settled 

foundations may require anchors, shoring, or underpinning. There is a variety of 

techniques, so seek an engineered system and an installation firm with a solid track 

record of success. Best are systems that are well connected to the building, have 

lateral bracing, and ideally some flex and adjustability.

• In flood hazard zones, flood vents are required by the National Flood Insurance 

Program in foundation walls within one foot of the ground to prevent failure from 

the pressure of rising floodwater.

• Paint the exterior of above-ground foundation walls and slabs with latex paint to 

resist liquid water absorption, but allow water vapor diffusion to help them dry. If 

possible, upgrade waterproofing of exterior of basement walls to withstand high 

water pressure. 

• Use only flood-resistant materials inside a basement or crawlspace. Insulate with 

closed cell foam insulation. Relocate equipment out of the basement or above 

flood risk.

Protect Yourself...

First and Foremost

Assess Damages 

and Hazards

Create a 

Work Plan

Prepare the 

Work Site

Clean-Out 

and Tear-Out

Clean and 

Decontaminate

Restore for 

More than Before

55

Rebuild Healthy Homes

How-to Restoration Guide for a Healthy Home 
• When possible, the best solution is to elevate the entire house above flood risk. 

Homeowner flood insurance policies and some communities that receive disaster 

mitigation grants provide financial resources to elevate homes that have flooded. Check 

with your county government’s floodplain or emergency management office and your 

flood insurance policy.

Walls

} If walls are open or you will rebuild, consider creating a “drainable, dryable wall” assembly:

• Partially fill wall cavities with closed cell spray foam insulation (2 lb. density) or rigid foam 

board cut to fit; or, insulate with exterior foam sheathing and leave the wall cavity empty. 

Closed cell foam insulation doesn’t absorb water. Leaving some empty space in the wall fosters 

drainage and drying.

• Install paperless drywall with gaps or gaskets between panels to block wicking across panels. 

Also leave gaps at the top and bottom, covered by moldings that can be removed after a flood to 

allow the wall cavities to be rinsed, drained and ventilated for drying.

• Use flood-resistant exterior materials, such as plywood sheathing, closed cell rigid foam 

sheathing, synthetic housewrap (weather barrier), and fiber cement siding or brick veneer. 

Be sure there is a drainage gap behind the cladding.

Wind- and hail-resistant improvements – 

for a stronger, safer home and less water damage.

Today, many wind- and impact-rated products and effective weather barrier systems (water 

excluding) are widely available. It’s a good investment to upgrade when replacing damaged 

materials.

Roof

If reroofing, remove all of the existing roof 

covering and specify a high-wind and hail-rated 

roof system. It must be installed according to 

manufacturer instructions to perform as rated 

and be covered by the warranty. For more 

detailed information, see www.disastersafety.org. 

1. If replacing roof decking, upgrade to 

F⁄i" plywood.

2. Reinforce existing and new roof decking 

with ring shank nails (0.113-inch diameter, 

2-D⁄i-inch long or longer with full round 

head) spaced every 6 inches. PHOTO: Ring shank nails provide greater pull-out 

resistance in high wind.

Protect Yourself...

First and Foremost

Assess Damages 

and Hazards

Create a 

Work Plan

Prepare the 

Work Site

Clean-Out 

and Tear-Out

Clean and 

Decontaminate

Restore for 

More than Before

56

Rebuild Healthy Homes

How-to Restoration Guide for a Healthy Home 
3. Add a secondary moisture barrier to prevent 

leaks at seams if roofing is lost to high 

wind. This can be created by taping the 

decking seams with a roofing tape (do not 

use window flashing tape). Also use wide 

adhesive membrane shields in roof valleys 

and along eaves.

4. Upgrade the underlayment. Use at least #30

roofing felt. Better options are a tear-resistant 

synthetic underlayment, or an adhesive 

membrane (peel and stick) underlayment for 

greatest protection (no need for taped seams 

if this is used). 

5. Install Class H (150 mph wind tested) and 

UL Class 4 impact-rated roofing systems for 

highest storm resistance. Shingles rated for high wind usually require matched starter strips and 

6 nails per tab to perform as tested and be warranted. Wind- and impact-resistant asphalt shingle, 

metal, slate and tile systems are now available.

6. Securely fasten strong soffits under overhangs, such as plywood or fiber cement panels.

Protect Yourself...

First and Foremost

Assess Damages 

and Hazards

Create a 

Work Plan

Prepare the 

Work Site

Clean-Out 

and Tear-Out

Clean and 

Decontaminate

Restore for 

More than Before

• • • RECOMMENDED ROOF COVERING STANDARDS • • •

Shingles should meet standards based on the wind speed for which protection is desired. Test standards are 

typically listed on the packaging shingles come in.

Recommended Product 

Testing Standards

} Class A, D or F wind resistance – 

ASTM D3161

} Class D, G, or H wind resistance – 

ASTM D7158 (preferred)

} Class A fire resistance – UL 790 or 

ASTM E108

} Class 3 or 4 impact resistance (class 4

is better) – UL 2218 or FM 4473

For standards and more information, go to www.astm.org, www.ul.com, or www.fmglobal.com

WIND SPEED ASTM D3161 ASTM D7158

60 mph Class A —

90 mph Class D Class D

110 mph Class F

120 mph — Class G

150 mph — Class H

PHOTO: A water-resistant barrier layered over step flashing at a roof-to-wall intersection.

57

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How-to Restoration Guide for a Healthy Home 
Structure

If walls are open or siding is removable, add metal straps and clips to strengthen connections of 

wall framing to the foundation, to the roof rafters or trusses, and between levels. Also strengthen 

accessory structures (screen porches, tool sheds, etc.) that could become flying debris. Remove trees 

and limbs near the house that pose a risk of breaking or uprooting.

Windows

If in a high wind zone, consider installing wind-borne debris protections such as impact-rated 

shutters, removable panels or impact-rated window and door systems. 

Weather Barriers

When replacing windows, doors, siding or any wall penetration, upgrade the weather resistive barrier 

and flashing system. Make sure everything is layered shingle-fashion with no gaps or tears. Use high 

performance caulks and sealants to reduce wind-driven water leaks.

Safe Rooms

If you live in a tornado risk zone, consider investing in the addition of a tornado safe room 

that meets FEMA standards to provide secure shelter during even the strongest tornadoes. 

Pre-fabricated safe rooms are commercially available or can be built according to FEMA guidelines 

at: www.fema.gov/safe-rooms.

Earthquake resistant improvements – 

to keep it together.

When building or repairing damage, make sure 

the foundation and structural plans, materials 

and connectors comply with local seismic 

building codes. Have a licensed engineer or 

architect evaluate and design repairs and 

reinforcements of the foundation, structure 

and connections that hold them together. 

Unreinforced masonry walls are especially 

vulnerable.

Additional measures you should take when 

restoring or renovating your home include:

} Install flexible connections and piping for gas and water lines.

} Brace water heaters with strapping and secure all equipment, cabinets and bookcases with screws 

that extend two inches into framing.

} Place large, heavy and breakable objects on the floor or lowest shelves. Provide storage for 

hazardous chemicals in lower cabinets with child safety locks. If you live in a flood zone, store 

these items above flood-risk level in anchored and locked cabinets.

PHOTO: Steel structural support added for earthquake 

resistance.

Protect Yourself...

First and Foremost

Assess Damages 

and Hazards

Create a 

Work Plan

Prepare the 

Work Site

Clean-Out 

and Tear-Out

Clean and 

Decontaminate

Restore for 

More than Before

58

Rebuild Healthy Homes

How-to Restoration Guide for a Healthy Home 
} Replace an upper chimney flue with a metal flue. Add plywood panels at the roof or ceiling joists 

to prevent chimney bricks from falling into the home.

Wildfire protections – to resist wind-blown embers. 

Wind-blown embers, which can travel a mile or more, are the biggest threat to homes near wildfire. 

Retrofits that can greatly increase protection from embers include:

} Remove dead vegetation on the roof, in gutters, and close to the home. Install gutter guards to keep 

debris out. Avoid combustible mulch; consider rock mulch instead. 

} Reroof with a Class A (fire-resistant) roofing material or roof system. Close any gaps under roofing, 

install bird stops in barrel tile roofs.

} Enclose the underside of open eaves (soffits) and cover soffit vents and crawl space vents with B⁄i

to W-inch metal mesh screen to block embers. Keep the screen clean to maintain attic ventilation.

} Install a spark arrestor that has V-inch mesh on chimneys.

} If replacing windows, choose double or triple pane units with at least one pane of tempered glass.

} Use fire-resistant materials for siding, decks and fencing, install a non-combustible buffer between 

wood decks or fencing and the home.

Freeze/snow-tolerant upgrades – to prevent trouble spots and keep warm 

and dry.

Roof damage from heavy snow load requires evaluation and reinforcement by qualified professionals, 

such as an architect, engineer or construction expert. There are simple solutions to prevent the more 

common burst pipes and roof leaks from ice dams:

} Install foam insulation sleeves on all water pipes, even those in heated spaces in case you lose 

heat. In deep freeze risk areas, install UL-approved heat tape on outdoor exposed pipes.

} Install pressure release valves in the plumbing system.

} Prevent ice dams on roof overhangs with airtight, well-insulated ceilings and good attic 

ventilation. These features keep the heat in your home from warming the attic and melting the 

bottom of snow on the roof. A well-sealed and insulated ceiling also improves energy efficiency 

and helps your home, and you, stay warm. 

} When reroofing, install adhesive membrane on roof overhangs before installing roofing 

underlayment. Upgrade to synthetic underlayment or adhesive membrane for the entire roof.

} Plan for a safe back-up heat source in the event of an emergency. If it’s a wood stove or fireplace, 

make sure it exhausts to the outdoors and has a duct to provide outside air for combustion. 

} Direct-vent, sealed-combustion units are the safest option in gas appliances. They eliminate risk of 

backdrafting combustion pollutants and do not use indoor air to support the fire. This reduces cold 

drafts to help your home stay warm longer.

Protect Yourself...

First and Foremost

Assess Damages 

and Hazards

Create a 

Work Plan

Prepare the 

Work Site

Clean-Out 

and Tear-Out

Clean and 

Decontaminate

Restore for 

More than Before

59

Rebuild Healthy Homes

How-to Restoration Guide for a Healthy Home 
Heat/drought management strategies – for structure and family survival.

Foundations

Preventing foundation failure when parched soil shrinks can save both your foundation and entire 

home from major structural damage. 

} To repair and prevent future foundation failures, simply “jacking it up” isn’t enough. Compare and 

use an engineered shoring system and an installation firm with a good track record. 

} Install a drip irrigation system encircling and a few feet from the foundation to keep the soil moist 

during droughts. Spread mulch to slow moisture evaporation and irrigate around trees near the 

home so their thirsty roots don’t cause uneven soil moisture levels.

Sun control strategies in home design and materials can help you tolerate extreme heat when you 

have no air conditioning or power:

} Shade windows with drought-tolerant landscaping, large roof overhangs, awnings, Bahamas 

shutters or solar screening, or apply heat-blocking solar film to single-pane windows. Overhangs 

on south facing windows can provide summer shade yet admit winter sun.

} If replacing windows, choose low-e windows with a low solar heat gain coefficient (SHGC < 0.30) 

where there is not full shade in summer. Choose casement windows to funnel breezes and doublehung windows for cross ventilation.

} Surround your home with vegetation and avoid unshaded pavement around the home.

} Select white or light colored exterior finishes and materials.

} Consider a solar reflective cool roof (labeled Energy Star), especially if installing metal roofing.

Heat also takes a toll on the longevity of most building materials. Choose more durable, longer 

warranty and UV-resistant exterior materials with light colors to reflect heat, especially in warm 

climates.

Tsunami/storm surge rebuilding – for safer coastal homes.

Strive to meet current coastal construction standards for velocity wave zones. Coastal construction 

guidelines are available at www.fema.gov. Make sure that the home plans specify that:

} The lowest part of the subfloor is above possible wave heights

} Foundation pilings are deep enough to withstand scouring out of soil by strong currents

} No walls, structures other than stairs, or items are kept under the house (breakaway walls may 

be allowable by code, but become debris that can damage other buildings or people).

Sinkholes/mudslides/falling debris and any catastrophe – tough decision time.

Destruction of a home by any type of disaster brings the tough choice of whether to relocate to 

a lower-risk area or rebuild in the same risk area. Relocation is often the best decision. There can 

be several resources to help and reduce financial losses. Check with your local disaster assistance 

center (temporary for major disasters) or emergency preparedness office.

Protect Yourself...

First and Foremost

Assess Damages 

and Hazards

Create a 

Work Plan

Prepare the 

Work Site

Clean-Out 

and Tear-Out

Clean and 

Decontaminate

Restore for 

More than Before

60

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How-to Restoration Guide for a Healthy Home 
HEALTHY HOME IMPROVEMENTS

Restoring a damaged home is also an opportunity to make your home an even better place to 

breathe, live, thrive and enjoy than ever before – when you apply healthy home principles in 

improvements. Review and, when possible, plan to include the following for a healthy home:

Keep it Dry

With each and every renovation component, plan for water and moisture control.

} Specify leak prevention and moisture control weather barriers, integrated shingle-fashion, 

with full-protection flashing of windows, doors, and penetrations in renovations. 

} Invest in a high-performance roofing system with upgraded underlayment for 

high resistance to leaks, wind and hail. Specify step flashing where roofs meet walls. 

(Read and enforce manufacturer installation recommendations.)

} Slope the grade and pavement within 10 feet of the house to provide good drainage of 

rainwater away from the foundation. A 5% or greater slope is recommended.

} Ensure indoor humidity control with bath, kitchen and laundry exhaust fans properly 

ducted to the outdoors, correctly sized air conditioners, and moisture barriers in the 

foundation system.

} Learn more about moisture and mold control methods for your climate zone. 

Explore the EPA mold site www.epa.gov/mold, the Department of Energy 

Building America Program Solution Center basc.pnnl.gov, HUD Healthy Homes 

www.hud.gov/healthyhomes, and the Cooperative Extension Service eXtension 

www.extension.org.

Keep it Clean

Restore with easy-care, durable 

finishes and furnishings with 

smooth surfaces that can be wiped 

clean. Consider adding large 

commercial doormats, shoe cubbies 

and storage at the family entrance.

Keep it Pest Free

Apply integrated pest management 

practices during home repairs by 

eliminating sources of food, water 

and shelter for pests. Seal gaps with 

pest-resistant barriers; eliminate 

places that can harbor pests; use 

Protect Yourself...

First and Foremost

Assess Damages 

and Hazards

Create a 

Work Plan

Prepare the 

Work Site

Clean-Out 

and Tear-Out

Clean and 

Decontaminate

Restore for 

More than Before

PHOTO: Use large commercial doormats to help keep soilbased contaminants (such as lead dust) out of your home.

61

Rebuild Healthy Homes

How-to Restoration Guide for a Healthy Home 
borate-treated materials; install termite barriers 

and inspection access. Learn more from your local Cooperative Extension Service or 

www.extension.org (search Household IPM).

Keep it Safe

Make your restored home a safer, 

convenient place for all ages and 

stages of life.

} Strengthen handrails, remove 

tripping hazards, and improve 

lighting. 

} Add child-safe features, especially 

to avoid burns, falling out of 

windows, and poisoning. 

} Install new smoke detectors, 

carbon monoxide (CO) alarms, 

fire extinguishers and GFCI 

(ground fault circuit interrupter) 

outlets in wet areas.

} Include adaptable and accessible (universal design) features like 3-foot wide doorways 

with low thresholds; bath grab bars; sinks and appliances that can be reached while 

seated; lower counters with knee space; lever handles; curbless showers, etc. 

Keep it Contaminant-Free

In addition to controlling mold, lead, asbestos, chemicals and bio-hazards during 

clean-up, include these improvements in your restoration.

} Avoid risk of combustion pollutants with direct-vent, sealed-combustion furnaces, 

water heaters and fireplaces that cannot backdraft into the home. Install quiet 

exhaust hoods over gas cooktops (so they will be used).

} Rigorously air seal between the garage and living space, or separate the garage from 

the home.

} Use low VOC (volatile organic compound) paints, adhesives and finishes; choose 

low-formaldehyde insulation and wood products; choose Green Label, low-emission 

carpets, air out new carpets for three days, and air out new foam mattresses until no 

odor is detected.

} Plan storage space for household chemicals outside the living space and above likely 

flood level.

PHOTO: GFCI outlets are safer than other types of outlets 

in wet areas.

Protect Yourself...

First and Foremost

Assess Damages 

and Hazards

Create a 

Work Plan

Prepare the 

Work Site

Clean-Out 

and Tear-Out

Clean and 

Decontaminate

Restore for 

More than Before

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Rebuild Healthy Homes

How-to Restoration Guide for a Healthy Home 
} Choose smooth floorings when occupants have dust mite allergies or asthma.

} Install a radon mitigation system if you live in a medium or high radon risk zone (see 

www.epa.gov/radon/zonemap.html). Radon is a cancer-causing radioactive soil gas 

that can build up in homes. Nearly one out of 15 homes in the U.S. has elevated radon 

levels – above EPA’s action limit of 4 picocuries of radon per liter of air (4 pCi/L). 

Most radon enters homes through the basement or foundation. It seeps in through 

cracks, construction joints, cracks in walls, gaps in suspended floors, gaps around service 

pipes, cavities inside walls, and the water supply. 

EPA recommends these methods to help add radon-resistance to homes during 

rebuilding after a disaster. See www.epa.gov/radon for more information and to 

find qualified radon contractors.

• When replacing, elevating or adding a new house foundation (concrete slab), use 

a 4-inch layer of clean, coarse gravel below it to allow the radon to move freely 

underneath the house. Place heavy duty plastic sheeting (6 mil. polyethylene) as a 

vapor retarder on top of the gravel. The sheeting prevents soil gases from entering 

the house and keeps concrete from clogging the gravel layer when the slab is 

poured. 

• Run a 3- to 4-inch solid PVC Schedule 40 pipe labeled “Radon System” vertically from 

the gravel layer below the slab, through the house’s conditioned space, and through 

and above the roof to safely vent radon outside and above the house. 

• Seal all openings, cracks, and crevices in the concrete foundation floor (including 

the slab perimeter crack) and walls with polyurethane caulk to prevent radon from 

entering the home. 

• Install an electrical outlet in the attic for use with a vent fan for the radon exhaust 

pipe, as needed now or in the future.

Keep it Properly Ventilated

Improve exhaust and fresh air ventilation, filtering and distribution to dilute indoor air 

pollutants.

} Install spot exhaust fans in all bathrooms and over the cooktop with properly installed 

ducting to the outdoors (not into the attic). Exhaust clothes dryers to the outdoors with 

short metal ducts.

} Replace damaged fuel-burning heaters with direct-vent, sealed-combustion types or 

electric heat pumps to eliminate risk of backdrafting.

} Seal heating and cooling ductwork and air returns airtight with mastic, not duct tape.

Protect Yourself...

First and Foremost

Assess Damages 

and Hazards

Create a 

Work Plan

Prepare the 

Work Site

Clean-Out 

and Tear-Out

Clean and 

Decontaminate

Restore for 

More than Before

63

Rebuild Healthy Homes

How-to Restoration Guide for a Healthy Home 
} Use air filters rated MERV 8 to 10 or higher. Note that high efficiency filters may 

restrict air flow too much for some systems. Check with your system manufacturer or 

HVAC contractor.

} Consider adding a balanced fresh air supply system and improved air distribution. 

Keep it Maintained

Make your restored home a low-maintenance home.

} Choose long-warranty, low-maintenance replacement siding, roofing, windows, doors 

and steps.

} Install leaf guards on gutters. Or, if you rebuild the roof, create 2-foot or larger roof 

overhangs without gutters and moderate roof slopes to shed water away from the 

house.

} Reroof with wind- and hail-rated roofing, even if you’re not in a hurricane or tornado 

zone. Wind and hailstorms can occur anywhere.

Keep it Comfortable

Make it easier and more affordable to stay warm in winter 

and cool in summer with energy-efficiency improvements. See 

www.energystar.gov, basc.pnnl.gov and www.extension.org to 

learn how to weatherize without causing moisture or health 

problems.

} Restore gutted walls, ceilings and floors with higher-R value 

insulation installed with no gaps, voids or compression.

} Air seal the entire enclosure of your living space, especially at the ceiling, to stop air 

leaks. Uncontrolled air leaks can cause discomfort, higher energy costs, moisture 

problems, and sometimes draw in pollutants from attics or crawl space.

} If you have central air conditioning and/or heat, get your ductwork leak tested and 

sealed as airtight as possible.

} Replace any damaged or worn out HVAC, windows, doors, appliances, electronics and 

lighting with models having Energy Star labels. Compare the yellow Energy Guide 

labels on appliances before buying.

} Include sun control strategies to cut summer heat gain, such as landscaping, solar film 

or screens, awnings, and light exterior colors. In warm climate zones, install a radiant 

barrier under the roof of a vented attic with the shiny side down, or replace roof 

decking with foil-lined decking.

Protect Yourself...

First and Foremost

Assess Damages 

and Hazards

Create a 

Work Plan

Prepare the 

Work Site

Clean-Out 

and Tear-Out

Clean and 

Decontaminate

Restore for 

More than Before

64

Rebuild Healthy Homes

How-to Restoration Guide for a Healthy Home 
Appendix 1 – Supplies and Materials

To help you plan and prepare efficiently, following is a general list of supplies and materials you 

might need. Add other items you will need to this list.

CLEAN-UP, HEALTH AND 

SAFETY STATION SUPPLIES

£ List of emergency phone numbers

£ Well-stocked first aid kit

£ Eye wash station

£ 3 to 5 clean-up buckets 

£ Pump sprayer (for clean water)

£ Hand soap, detergent, hand sanitizer

£ Scrub brushes

£ Paper towels, tissues

£ Trash bin or bags

£ Table (weather resistant)

£ Rack for hanging work clothes, respirators

£ Bottled water

PERSONAL PROTECTIVE 

EQUIPMENT (PPE)

£ Lungs: N100 respirators 

(min. N95 if home built after 1980)

£ Eyes: Goggles or safety glasses

£ Ears: Ear plugs or earmuffs

£ Feet: Non-skid shoe covers, work boots, rubber 

boots

£ Head: Cap with brim or hard hat

£ Hands: Waterproof, cut-resistant gloves; 

chemical resistant gloves

£ Body: Disposable coveralls with elastic wrists 

and ankles or removable work clothes

£ Other safety gear: Tethers, back support belt, 

etc. as needed

TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT

£ Fire extinguishers (10ABC type)

£ Work lights (break-resistant), portable lanterns, 

flashlights

£ Generator (gasoline or solar kit), gas cans 

(if needed)

£ Extension cords (three-wire heavy duty, 

outdoor) 

£ Wet/dry shop vacuum cleaner

£ HEPA vacuum cleaner, spare filter bags 

and filters

£ Dehumidifier, drain hose

£ Fans (box fan for containment negative 

pressure; fans for comfort)

£ Ladders

£ Shovels 

£ Chain saw

£ Wheelbarrow, handcart, high-capacity dolly

£ Pliers with end-cut

£ Crowbar

£ Wrench

£ Hammers and assorted nails 

£ Staple gun, staples

£ Saws: reciprocating, drywall, circular, handsaw

£ Power tools (drill, saw, screwdriver)

£ Current tester (for electrical work)

£ Moisture meter

£ Pocket knife

£ Carpet cutter

£ Measuring tape, retractable

£ Straight edge 

£ Pump sprayer

£ Hand sanders and planers, paint scrapers

£ Tool box, tool pouch or belt

£ Other needs:______________________________

_________________________________________

_________________________________________

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Rebuild Healthy Homes

Appendix 1 – Supplies and Materials
SUPPLIES

£ Cell phone and charger, solar charger

£ Batteries (for lights, meters, testers)

£ Camera

£ Reading glasses

£ Cooler for food and drinks

£ Door mats

£ Water hose, water jugs

£ Mops, brooms and dust pans

£ Scoops, disposable containers

£ Abrasive sponges, soft sponges, rags, scrub 

brushes, stiff brush

£ Buckets

£ All-purpose cleaner – 

low suds, phosphate free

£ Disinfectant solutions (appropriate to surface)

£ Spray mister (hand-held), wet/dry abrasive 

paper, wet sanding sponges (for wet-methods)

£ Heavy duty, contractor trash bags

£ Bungee cords, rope

£ Plastic sheeting, 6 mil roll

£ Roof tarp, roofing nails, roofing cement

£ Weather barrier materials 

(housewrap, cap nails, etc.)

£ Masking tape, duct tape

£ Construction adhesive, epoxy, caulks

£ Pieces of lumber: 2ú4’s, furring strips

£ Plywood

£ Lead dust test kits 

(EPA-recognized, see www.epa.gov/lead)

£ Fungicide, mildewstat coatings 

(water vapor permeable, only)

£ Borate treatment solution

£ Plaster repair, drywall spackle, joint 

compounds

£ Gypsum drywall, paperless, water-resistant 

drywall

£ Latex paints, primers, finishes (water vapor 

permeable)

£ Weather stripping, foam sealant, etc.

£ Replacement insulations, sheathing, etc.

£ Hurricane hardware, ring shank nails

£ Other needs:______________________________

_________________________________________

_________________________________________

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Rebuild Healthy Homes

Appendix 1 – Supplies and Materials
Appendix 2 – Glossary

DESCRIPTIVE DEFINITIONS

} black water – Contains disease-causing 

(pathogenic) agents and is extremely 

unsanitary; includes sewage and flooding 

from seawater, rivers or other rising 

stormwater.

} borate solution – Treatment containing borate 

salts, derived from the natural element boron, 

used to protect wood from termites, other 

wood destroying insects, algae and decay fungi. 

} bottom plate/sill plate/sole plate – A 

horizontal framing member at the bottom of 

a wall, on which the vertical studs or framing 

panel of the wall rest.

} cladding – The exterior finish material of a 

building, such as roofing, siding, brick, 

stucco, etc.

} closed cell foam – A type of rigid panel or 

spray-on foam insulation with a solid cell 

structure and medium to high density 

(2-3 lb./cubic foot); properties include high 

insulating R-value (R 5-8/inch), low water 

vapor permeability, non-absorbent, low water 

wicking, and rigidity that can structurally 

reinforce a building assembly; spray-applied 

foam can create an airtight seal. 

} combustion equipment – Appliances that 

burn fuel for energy, including gas furnaces, 

space heaters, water heaters, ranges, and 

clothes dryers; oil-fired boilers; fireplaces, 

wood stoves, etc.

} containment – Isolating a space to keep 

something harmful under control or within 

limits; typically involves sealing off air vents 

and openings to clean rooms with plastic 

sheeting and tape, and drawing air from the 

work area to outdoors (negative pressure).

} fibrous insulation – Insulation product 

made with fiberglass, mineral wool, 

cellulose, cotton or other material with 

small fibers; the air space between fibers 

resists conduction of heat through the 

material (R-value varies), but can hold 

water, so the material should be replaced 

when wet. 

} firebrands – Burning material that is lifted 

in air currents, transporting fire to other 

areas; also called ember showers.

} flashing – A waterproof material designed 

to redirect, block or shed water; process 

of installing materials that prevent water 

intrusion at roof and wall penetrations, 

windows, doors, etc.

} flood vent – An opening in an enclosed 

foundation wall or structure to allow the 

free flow of water in and out, in order 

to prevent structural damage from the 

floodwater pressure; generally required for 

homes in flood hazard zones.

} footing – The part of a foundation 

bearing directly upon the earth, usually 

underground.

} GFCI (ground-fault circuit interrupter) – 

A fast-acting circuit breaker designed to shut 

off electric power and prevent electric shock 

in the event of a break in the grounding path 

from a tool or electric circuit to the earth.

} gray water – Unsanitary water not 

suitable for drinking, but unlikely to 

contain disease-causing contaminants; 

includes waste water or leaks from sinks, 

tubs, dishwashers, washing machines and 

waterbeds.

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Appendix 2 – Glossary
} HEPA (high efficiency particulate air) 

– A filter designed to capture 99.97% 

of airborne particles measuring 0.3

micrometers or greater in diameter 

passing through it. 

} housewrap – Common term for a 

weather barrier sheet material installed 

over exterior wall sheathing and under 

cladding to shed water, protecting framing 

and insulation from water damage; may 

also be sealed to limit air leakage, yet allow 

water vapor to escape (vapor permeable).

} HVAC – Heating, ventilation, and air 

conditioning system, including any 

ductwork.

} joists – The parallel wood or metal framing 

members that span from wall to wall in a 

structure to support a floor or ceiling.

} lath – Thin, flat strips of wood or wire 

mesh, used as backing for plaster or stucco 

on a wall or tiles on a roof.

} mastic – A compound that remains 

adhesive and pliable with age; 

recommended to create a durable, 

airtight, waterproof seal in air ductwork.

} MERV (minimum efficiency reporting 

value) – A standardized rating of the 

effectiveness of an air filter at removing 

particles from the air that passes through 

it, ranging from a low of 1 to a high of 

20; higher MERV filters remove smaller 

particles; filters rated MERV 7–13 may 

be nearly as effective as HEPA filters at 

capturing airborne indoor particles.

} meter (gas, electric or water) – A specialized 

flow meter that measures the volume (of 

gas, electricity or water) used; typically 

installed outside of a home; gas and water 

meters usually have a shutoff valve. 

} mycotoxin (pronounced “my kuh tock sin”) 

– A poisonous substance produced by a 

fungus, including some types of mold. 

} negative air pressure – A containment 

safety practice where work area 

air is exhausted outside to prevent 

contaminated air from traveling to clean 

areas of the home.

} open cell foam – A low-density spray 

foam insulation (0.5 lb./cubic foot) in 

which the cells are not completely closed; 

properties include ability to create an 

airtight seal, R 3.5 to 3.7 insulating value, 

vapor permeable, can absorb water, 

remains soft and more flexible than rigid 

foam.

} OSB (oriented strand board) – An 

engineered wood structural panel made 

of wood strands and flakes bonded 

together with resins under heat and 

pressure; typically used as wall or roof 

sheathing and subflooring.

} particleboard – An engineered wood 

product made from wood chips, sawmill 

shavings or sawdust and a binder, that is 

pressed and extruded into panels; made 

in a range of densities and strengths; 

most types prone to expansion and 

weakening from moisture; used in indoor 

furniture and cabinets.

} PPE (personal protective equipment) – 

Specialized clothing and equipment worn 

for protection against health and safety 

hazards; includes respirators, goggles, 

gloves, etc.

} pressboard/pressed wood – A dense 

composite material, typically made from 

layers of recycled paper, textile or wood 

pulp formed into boards or sheets with 

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Appendix 2 – Glossary
adhesive and heat; usually covered with a 

laminate or skin when used in furniture, 

cabinets and counters; most types prone to 

expansion and weakening from moisture.

} radiant barrier – A shiny material, such 

as aluminum foil, placed in an airspace 

to block radiant heat transfer between 

a heat-radiating surface (such as a hot 

roof) and a heat-absorbing surface (such 

as air ductwork and ceilings); typically 

used in homes in warm climates to 

reduce heat gain.

} radon – A cancer-causing, invisible, 

radioactive soil gas that can seep into and 

build up in homes; the second leading 

cause of lung cancer.

} rafters – The sloping boards or beams of 

roof framing that extend from the peak of 

a roof to the eaves.

} reciprocating saw – A portable power saw 

in which the cutting action is achieved 

through a push and pull motion of the 

blade. 

} relative humidity (RH) – The ratio (%) 

of the amount of water vapor in air 

compared to how much moisture air could 

hold at the same temperature; RH 40% to 

60% is preferred range for comfort and 

health; lower RH speeds drying of wet 

materials.

} rim board/rim joist/band joist – A 

structural board or band around the 

perimeter of floor framing (on the 

foundation or between levels), to which 

the ends of joists are attached.

} scour – A localized loss of soil, often 

around a foundation element, caused 

by floodwater flowing around it.

} sill – The lowest horizontal framing 

member resting on the foundation and 

supporting floor joists or studs; also a term 

for the lowest part of a window or exterior 

door frame.

} sheathing – A layer of boards, plywood, 

OSB or other panel material applied to 

studs, joists or roof rafters to strengthen 

the structure and provide a base for 

attaching cladding.

} shoring – A general term for the process 

of adding support to a structure or 

foundation to prevent collapse or failure, 

such as to remedy uneven settling of 

a foundation; foundation shoring may 

involve underpinning. 

} soffit – The underside of a protruding part 

of a building, such as a roof overhang.

} spark arrestor – A device that prevents 

the emission of flammable debris from 

combustion sources such as a fireplace or 

wood burning stove.

} step flashing – Short pieces of flashing 

applied along an exterior wall or chimney 

where it intersects a roof surface; each 

piece is installed to overlap the shingle in 

the course below, and to be overlapped by 

the shingle in the course above to channel 

rainwater over shingles and prevents 

leaks; method required by most shingle 

manufacturers.

} truss – A framework of individual 

structural members arranged (usually 

in triangles) and connected together to 

form a strong support unit that can span a 

distance, such as an engineered roof truss 

or floor joist truss.

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Appendix 2 – Glossary
} underlayment (roof) – A water-resistant 

felt or other sheet material (may be a selfadhering membrane) installed between 

the roof decking and roof covering, 

usually used in sloped roof construction.

} underpinning – The process of modifying 

an existing foundation system by 

extending it to deeper, more stable 

soil than the soil level that previously 

supported foundation; may be called 

foundation shoring.

} unreinforced masonry – Brick, 

cinderblock, tiles, adobe or other masonry 

material that is not braced by reinforcing 

beams or steel rebar, thus vulnerable to 

earthquake damage.

} vapor permeable – Allows gases (such 

as water vapor) to pass through it; the 

higher a perm rating of a material, the 

more vapor permeable it is.

} VOC (volatile organic compound) – 

Chemicals that can evaporate into the air 

from a liquid or solid product at normal 

temperatures and conditions; high VOC 

household and construction products 

can be a source of unhealthy indoor air 

pollutants.

} wicking water line – A visible marking 

that reflects the level of wetting that 

occurred beyond a flood level, due to 

moisture wicking through a material

(capillary action); after a flood, the 

wicking line on drywall is often more 

than a foot above the flood level.

ACRONYMS AND ABBREVIATIONS

CDC – Centers for Disease Control and 

Prevention

CO – carbon monoxide

EPA – Environmental Protection Agency

FEMA – Federal Emergency Management 

Agency

GFCI – ground- fault circuit interrupter

HEPA – high efficiency particulate air

HUD – United States Department of Housing 

and Urban Development

HVAC – heating, ventilating and air 

conditioning 

IPM – integrated pest management

IRC – International Residential Code 

MERV – minimum efficiency reporting value

NFIP – National Flood Insurance Program

NIOSH – National Institute for Occupational 

Safety and Health 

NVLAP – National Voluntary Laboratory 

Accreditation Program

OSB – oriented strand board

OSHA – Occupational Safety and Health 

Administration 

PPE – personal protective equipment

RH – relative humidity

UL – Underwriters Laboratory

VOC – volatile organic compound

Disclaimer

The website addresses in this document were verified shortly before publication, but some of them will change over 

time, and additional websites of interest will be created. If a particular page is no longer valid or is outdated, a higherlevel page may be checked (e.g., starting a search at www.abc.gov, when www.abc.gov/def is invalid or no longer useful), 

or a web search engine may be used to look for the term(s) of interest.

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Appendix 2 – Glossary
Appendix 3 – For more information....

DISASTER AND RESILIENT HOME RESOURCES

Find where and how to access disaster recovery 

help and resources.

} www.DisasterAssistance.gov

(Disaster Assistance Improvement Program)

Learn about methods and certification programs 

to fortify your home against natural hazards.

} www.DisasterSafety.org

(IBHS – Insurance Institute for Building 

& Home Safety)

Discover your flood risk and what to do about it.

} www.FloodSmart.gov

(NFIP – National Flood Insurance Program)

See how to prepare your home and family 

for any natural hazard.

} www.flash.org

(FLASH – Federal Alliance for Safe Homes)

Learn about federal programs and resources 

for planning, preparing and recovering from 

disasters.

} www.fema.gov

(FEMA – Federal Emergency Management 

Agency programs main)

Get specifications for building a tornado 

safe room.

} www.fema.gov/safe-rooms

(FEMA safe room)

Access federal agency telecommunication services 

for people with speech and hearing disabilities.

} www.gsa.gov/fedrelay

(Federal Relay)

Learn about HUD disaster resources.

} www.hud.gov

(HUD – U.S. Dept. of Housing and Urban 

Development; enter Disaster Recovery into 

the search box)

Explore protective measures to take before, during, 

and after an emergency.

} www.ready.gov

(FEMA – Federal Emergency Management 

Agency website for households) 

Find disaster shelters and recovery guidance.

} www.RedCross.org

(The American Red Cross)

FINDING QUALIFIED CONTRACTORS AND PROFESSIONALS

Find certified home cleaning, restoration and 

remediation professionals.

} www.acac.org

(American Council for Accredited 

Certification)

} www.certifiedcleaners.org

(Institute of Inspection Cleaning and 

Restoration Certification)

} www.restorationindustry.org

(Restoration Industry Association)

Find qualified asbestos professionals and 

laboratories.

} www.epa.gov/asbestos

(EPA – Environmental Protection Agency 

asbestos website; use Hire an Asbestos 

Professional)

} www.nist.gov

(National Institute of Standards and 

Technology website; select Laboratory 

Accreditation (NVLAP))

Find certified Lead-Safe Renovators in your area.

} www.epa.gov/lead

(EPA – Environmental Protection Agency lead 

poison prevention)

Find home building and renovation contractors 

who belong to national professional organizations. 

} www.nahb.org

(National Association of Home Builders)

} www.nari.org

(National Association of the Remodeling 

Industry)

Find your state contractor licensing agency to 

verify contractors’ licenses.

} www.nascla.org

(National Association of State Contractors 

Licensing Agencies)

See worker safety guidelines and regulations.

} www.osha.gov

(Occupational Safety & Health Administration)

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Appendix 3 – For more information....
HEALTH HAZARDS (asbestos, mold, lead, radon, biohazards, etc.)

Search the index to learn more about home 

environment health hazards, diseases 

and helpful resources.

} www.cdc.gov

(Centers for Disease Control and Prevention)

Learn about asbestos hazards and safety.

} www.epa.gov/asbestos

(EPA – Environmental Protection Agency 

asbestos information)

} www.nachi.org/asbestos

(International Association of Certified 

Home Inspectors asbestos webpage)

Learn about lead poisoning hazards, effects 

and lead-safe work practices. 

} www.epa.gov/lead

(EPA lead information)

Learn about mold hazards, prevention and 

remediation guidelines.

} www.epa.gov/mold

(EPA mold information)

Learn about the health hazards of radon, how to 

test your home, and radon mitigation systems.

} www.epa.gov/radon

(EPA radon information)

HEALTHY HOME RESOURCES

Explore healthy home topics, programs 

and resources.

} www.healthyhomes.hud.gov

(The federal interagency healthy 

homes website)

} www.cdc.gov/healthyhomes

(CDC healthy homes)

} www.epa.gov/iaq

(EPA indoor air)

} www.hud.gov/healthyhomes

(HUD healthy homes)

Read the “Help Yourself to a Healthy Home” 

booklet and learn practical actions you can take.

} www.hud.gov/offices/lead/library/hhi/

HYHH_Booklet.pdf

Explore healthy home research, policy issues, 

standards and publications.

} www.lung.org/healthy-air

(American Lung Association healthy air)

} www.nchh.org

(The National Center for Healthy Housing)

} www.osha.gov/SLTC/indoorairquality

(OSHA indoor air quality) 

OTHER HOME RESTORATION RESOURCES

Search building code provisions online or 

order codes and standards publications.

} www.iccsafe.org

(International Code Council)

Learn ways to increase comfort, save 

money and have a more energy-efficient 

home with good indoor air quality.

} www.energy.gov

(U.S. Department of Energy website; 

select Energy Saver)

} www.energystar.gov

(EPA Energy Star)

} https://basc.pnnl.gov

(U.S. Department of Energy Building America 

Program Solution Center)

Explore the interactive online learning environment of America’s land-grant universities 

for research based information on disaster 

issues, home energy, moisture control and 

many other topics.

} www.eXtension.org

(Cooperative Extension Service information 

resource)

Learn how to prepare your home and family 

for disasters.

} www.redcross.org/prepare/location/

home-family

(The American Red Cross)

72

Rebuild Healthy Homes

Appendix 3 – For more information....
Rebuild Healthy Homes
Top 10 Tips 

for Rebuilding Healthy Homes

Remind yourself often to put people 

before property! Make safety your 

top priority (page 10).

Wear personal protective equipment 

(PPE), including protective clothing 

and a NIOSH-approved respirator, 

every time you set foot in a damaged 

or moldy building (pages 11 to 14).

Assess structural stability and 

hidden hazards before you enter. 

A professional inspection may be 

needed (pages 15 to 30).

Prepare a plan (supplies and methods), 

make a map (disposal and clean-up 

site layout), and review insurance policies and disaster assistance resources 

(pages 3 and 30 to 33).

Go slow when pumping out water, 

then act fast to dry out and remove 

mold. Copy and share the DIY Mold 

Removal Guidelines sheet with 

workers (pages 41 and 50 to 53).

Always remove wet insulation and 

foam padding, even if the surface 

looks dry and clean (pages 48 and 49).

Assume lead-based paint and asbestos

are in homes built before 1978 (unless 

verified not present). Be mindful that 

disturbing such materials increases 

the hazard (pages 24 to 28).

Control dust, capture debris and 

contain contaminants – with wet 

methods, drop cloths, debris bags, 

HEPA vacuums and workers trained 

in safe work practices (pages 25 to 28, 

39 and 40).

Check credentials and hire only 

licensed and insured contractors, 

Lead-Safe Certified Renovators, 

certified Asbestos professionals, 

Mold Remediation Contractors, Fire 

and Water Damage Restorers, and 

other professionals, depending on 

types of work needed (pages 33 to 35).

Restore for More than Before!

Install hazard-resistant materials, 

connectors and building systems. 

Include energy-saving and healthy 

home improvements (pages 53 to 64).

See Appendix for more sources of helpful information.

U.S. Department of Housing and Urban Development

Office of Lead Hazard Control and Healthy Homes