PANAMA

S.4E7
The American Forces Information Service does not stock

copies of this publication for general distribution. For additional copies, contact your command, your Service publication distribution center, or the Superintendent of

Documents, United States Government Printing Office,

Washington, D.C. 20402
Dod PG-2

DA Pam 360-420

NAVPERS 15403

AFP 216-11

NAVMAC 2728

A POCKET GUIDE TO

PANAMA

c> 00.

AMERICAN FORCES INFORMATION SERVICE

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE 0 1981
Table of Contents

Panama-A Profile . 3

Bienvenidlo- W elcome . 4

T he L and . 5

The Government . 6

The People . 8

The Spanish . 11

The Road To Freedom . 16

Treaties- Old and New . 19L

Your Hosts- The Pananamanians . 25 

Enjoying Panama . 30

Daily Living . 41

Getting Ready To Go . 45 F

Your Role In Panama . 48

Spanish Language Guide .. 49

2
PANAMA-A PROFILE

Official Name: Republica de Panama

Population: 1,900,000 (mestizo 70 percent: West Indian 14

percent; white 10 percent: Indian 6 percent)

Literacy Rate: 80 percent

Per Capita Income: $1,300

Religion: Roman Catholic (93 percent), Protestant (6 percent)

Languages: Spanish (official), English

Currency: Balboa divided into 100 centesimos. U.S. and

Panamanian coins under $1 are interchangeable; otherwise, U.S. paper currency is the medium of exchange.

Flag: Four rectangles: Lower left, blue; upper right, red;

upper left, white with blue star in center; lower right,

white with red star in center.

3
BIENVENIDO

iBienvenido a Panamd, amigo!

Welcome to Panama, friend!

These are the words that you will hear wherever your

travels take you during a tour of duty in this colorful and

friendly Central American nation.

To help you in getting around and meeting the Panamanians, there is a brief Spanish language section in this

booklet.

However, English is spoken in most of the larger cities

of the country, and even in the outlying regions there is

usually someone in the village or area who has worked

with Americans or learned English at school.

Let's find out more about this land which will be your

host.

4
THE LAND

The Republic of Panama occupies the southern end of

the isthmus that forms the land connection between North

and South America.

It is one of the smallest nations in the Americas, both

in size-29,762 square miles (77,080 square kilometers)-

and population, which is nearing the two million mark.

Shaped like a flattened letter "S," the nation varies in

width from 311 miles to 133 miles and is divided by the

Panama Canal, which runs between the Pacific ocean and

the Caribbean Sea/Atlantic Ocean.

Almost 85 percent of the country is forested, and much

of the southern (Darien) region, which borders on Colombia, is covered by a nearly impenetrable rain forest.

5
At the northern end of Panama, which borders on Costa

Rica, there are green plains and low hills.

Much of the country is mountainous, and two mountain

ranges form the backbone of the isthmus.

Rainfall is heaviest on the Atlantic Ocean side, as much

as 130 inches a year. The Pacific Ocean side of the isthmus

receives about one-half that amount of rain.

Panama's climate is pleasantly tropical, and temperatures are practically uniform the year around, ranging from

74 degrees to 91 degrees Fahrenheit.

High humidity makes it necessary to have some type of

dehumidification process wherever clothing, books, or other

such material are stored.

THE GOVERNMENT

The nation marks its independence from the government of Colombia on November 3, 1903. The present

Constitution, adopted in October 1972, separates the government into legislative, executive, and judicial branches.

The legislative branch is made up of a National Assembly

of Community Representatives whose 505 members are

elected to six-year terms by universal adult suffrage.

The executive branch is headed by a President and a

Vice President.

6
The judicial branch is organized under a nine-member

Supreme Court.

The National Guard serves as both police and military

force and has a strength of about 9,000 men and women,

including small air and naval units.

iBienvenido a Panamd!

7
THE PEOPLE

Of the 60 or more tribes thought to have lived in the

area that is now Panama before the first European sighted

the land, three remain.

In Panama as elsewhere on the American continent, the

native culture did not long survive the brutal shock of the

Spanish conquest. It is estimated that over two-thirds of

the Indian population died between 1519 and 1650.

Indian tribesmen who met the first European to set foot

in Panama, Rodrigo de Bastidas in 1501, were for the most

part friendly, given more to trading and farming than to

warfare.

However, the sometimes cruel treatment they suffered

at the hands of the various explorers and settlers soon

changed that attitude.

8
Seafaring voyages as well as overland trips had acquainted the Panamanian Indians with the riches and lands

of the Incas in Peru and the Mayans in Mexico.

As traders, they brought back gold and silver trinkets

and chains. In some parts of the Panamanian isthmus, the

Indians mastered the art of "lost wax" casting and made

their own gold and silver huacas, statuettes of gods, goddesses, and animals.

In addition, their mastery of pottery-making was on a

par with the more centralized Indian civilizations, such as

the Aztecs and Incas.

But the intricate designs of the jewelry did not interest

the Spaniards as much as the gold and silver from which

they were fashioned. In Panama, as elsewhere, much of

the cultural record of the area was lost when these historical artifacts were melted down into bars for easier shipment to Spain.

You can meet the descendants of some of these original

tribes today if you travel to the Panamanian countryside

and take a step back in time to visit their villages.

They are the Cunas of the San Blas islands and the

coastal region of the Caribbean Sea, the Chocos living

deep in the heart of rain forests in the Darien region (their

ancestors aided Balboa in his search for the Castilla del

Oro-Golden Castile), and the Guaymies, a hardy mountain tribal group which lived then, as now, in the Chiriqui

region of the country.

From their trading journeys-by sea as well as over9
land-these Indians knew of the Pacific Ocean long before

it was "discovered" by Spanish explorers. Without the

help of the Chocos, Balboa would never have been able

to claim the ocean and all the lands that it touched for the

king of Spain.

In addition to the many cultural contributions the Indians made to the country, historians now believe that the

very name-Panama-comes from an Indian phrase which

means "the place where the fish are many."

10
THE SPANISH

By late in the 15th century, Spain's kings had long

dreamed of the riches of Cathay, based on Marco Polo's

tales of his overland travels to the mysterious and littleknown eastern kingdoms.

So it was that the pleas of Christopher ColumbusCrist6bal Col6n in the Spanish language that he preferred to use-did not fall on deaf ears when he asked to

be given ships and men in order to find the sea route to

the Indies and beyond.

So certain was he that the route across the Atlantic

Ocean would lead him to the riches of the East that he

took along a Jewish wanderer who spoke some Arabic,

Chaldean, and Hebrew in order to be able to speak to the

great leaders of the Indies when he met them.

11
He sailed from Palos, Spain, on August 3, 1492, with a

fleet consisting of the 133-foot-long Santa Maria and two

much smaller ships, the Pinta and the Nifna, both about

50-feet long.

Land was sighted on October 12. But it was not to be

the Cathay that he was seeking. Instead, he landed on the

coast of one islands of The Bahamas.

The first trip ended with the exploration of those islands.

On his second trip, with a much larger fleet, he returned

to the same islands for more explorations.

When he departed at the end of the second trip, he left

behind ships and men. One of his captains, Rodrigo de

Bastidas, later took his ship even further west. He eventually landed on the isthmus of what is now Panama in

1501 and established a small settlement, called Nombre

de Dios, the first Western settlement in the New World.

The settlement did not remain for long. Disease and

fear drove the settlers back to the ship.

But one of them, Vasco Nunez de Balboa, was fascinated with the land and the people, so much so that he

took a Cuna Indian woman as his wife.

On his fourth trip to the New World, Columbus anchored in the harbor where the first settlement had been.

He landed there and explored the entire eastern coastline

of what is now Panama.

Balboa remained in the New World and eventually became a resident in the first permanent settlement in the

new World at Acla. While the site of this settlement has

12
been lost over the centuries, historians now believe it was

located near what is now the town of Careta.

It was while living at Acla that Balboa learned of the

existence of another ocean across the mountains.

With Indian guides, he traveled through what is now

the Darien region of Panama and first saw the Pacific

Ocean on September 26, 1513.

He claimed it, and all the lands it touched, for the king

of Spain and returned to Acla with gold that he had taken

from the Indians of the region.

The gold was sent back to Spain, accompanied by an

an Indian who had been taught some Spanish and who

could tell the king of the "immense rivers of gold" waiting

for those who would seek them out. This was the Castilla

del Oro-Golden Castile-that Spanish dreams were based

on.

Balboa returned to the Pacific side with more Spaniards

and explored the coastal waters. He landed on an island

in the Gulf of Panama, naming it and those around it the

Pearl Islands.

Intrigue among the Spaniards who envied his popularity

led to the downfall and death of Balboa. This occurred

after a governor appointed by the king arrived in 1514 to

take charge of the colony's affairs.

The governor found the heat and disease of the Caribbean not to his taste, so he followed the Spanish trail

across the isthmus to the cooler, healthier climate of the

Pacific side.

13
In 1519 he moved the seat of government to the Pacific

side and founded Panama City. This soon became the

center for Spanish exploration and conquest in Central

and South America.

The conquest of Peru by Francisco Pizarro in 1533 was

planned and launched from Panama City, as was the expedition of Sebastian de Benalcazar, founder of Quito,

Ecuador.

Led by the lure of gold and silver, Spanish soldiers and

settlers roamed the entire Pacific coast of South America.

Cruel at times in their search for treasure, they also intermarried with the Indians. The mixture of Spanish and

Indian blood brought forth the mestizo population that is

found in Panama and elsewhere in the Americas where

Spain had colonies.

And Others

The treasures of the New World that were passing through

the ports of Panama soon attracted other adventurers.

All the gold that was seized from the Incas crossed the

isthmus on the backs of black slaves brought to the land

from other Spanish possessions in the Caribbean. The silver of Bolivia crossed the same way, as did pearls from

the Pacific when that area was opened to Spanish exploration after Magellan found a water way by sailing around

the southern tip of the South American continent in 1520.

Those slaves who escaped added to the population of

the colony. They fled into the interior of the isthmus.

14
Because of their raids against the treasure-carrying caravans headed for the Caribbean side of the isthmus, they

were called cimarrones-wild men-by the Spaniards.

At times they joined up with the corsairs that were

sailing in the waters on both sides of the isthmus. These

were French and English trader-pirates who raided the

Spanish fleets as well as the cities of the coast.

Panama City was burned to the ground in 1671 by the

pirate Henry Morgan, and Sir Francis Drake captured and

looted both Portobelo and Nombre de Dios on the Atlantic

side.

The lure of the land and its riches tempted some of these

adventurers to stay. And they were joined in their various

endeavors by wanderers from Scotland (a Scottish colony

was founded on the coast of Darien in 1699), England,

and France.

Seeing the beauty of the land, enjoying the tropical

climate and friendliness of the Panamanians, these men

joined those already settled.

The cosmopolitan nature of today's Panamanians grew

with each and every settler.

15
ROAD TO FREEDOM

The decline of Panama as a point of transshipment began in the late 1730s after the signing of a peace treaty

between England and Spain. With English raiders no longer

capturing Spain's ships, the traffic of the galleons from

Portobelo began to fall off as the vessels which left Peru

favored the route around Cape Horn.

For a period Panama had its own governor, but when

the post was abolished in 1751, Panama became a quiet

backwater region, isolated by land and sea from New

Granada where the new governor resided.

Through the many revolts that the Latin American colonies mounted against Spanish rule, Panama remained on

the side of the Spanish king. Then, in 1821, the people of

the region proclaimed their independence and voluntarily

associated themselves with the newly independent nation

of Colombia.

But, this also did not last. Colombian misrule brought

about no less than 53 Panamanian revolts between 1850

and 1902.

Finally, on November 3, 1903, Panama declared its independence from Colombia after the Colombian government had rejected a treaty that would have permitted the

United States to build a canal across the isthmus.

The United States was the first country to recognize

Panamanian independence. The two countries signed the

Panama Canal Treaty soon after independence.

16
A Dream Fulfilled

The United States had been seriously interested in an

isthmian canal for at least a half century before the actual

signing of the canal treaty.

But long before the United States or even the French

became interested in building a canal, the possibility of a

canal had been studied. In 1524. Charles V of Spain ordered such a study to be made.

While the effort was too great for the engineers of that

day, the dream did not die.

The passion for gold-this time in California-led to the

revival of the idea in the 1840s and 50s when east coast

miners made their way to Panama by ship, crossed on foot

and mule back, and took a second ship to California and

the promised land.

While the idea of a canal simmered, the construction of

a railroad across the isthmus began in mid-1850. From

Colon, named for Columbus., the railroad edged its way

across the countryside. Some days little or no progress was

made in the swamps it had to cross, but on January 27,

1855, the last rail was laid and the next morning a steady

stream of passengers started crossing back and forth with

ease.

In 1880 a private French company., led by Ferdinand de

Lesseps, builder of the Suez Canal. started work on a canal

across Panama. This effort ended in 1898 after 18 years

of work, $280 million in costs. and thousands of deaths

from yellow fever and other tropical diseases.

17
With the signing of a canal treaty between Panama and

the United States, the military took an active part in all

phases of building the Panama Canal.

U.S. Army Colonel William Gorgas was placed in charge

of sanitation and health in the Canal Zone, and his program of drainage, spraying, and sewage systems eliminated

the peril of yellow fever before construction started in

earnest in 1907.

Another Army officer, Colonel George Goethals, was

appointed to the post of chief engineer of the Canal Commission, and work that had formerly been done by civilian

engineers was reorganized and directed by Army engineers

under Colonel Goethals.

The United States' plan for the canal was relatively simple in concept. The steps were to:

* dam the Chagres River to create a man-made lake

through which would be dredged a channel,

* construct a harbor on the Atlantic side and dredge a

sea-level channel from the harbor to the dam,

* build a set of locks in the dam to raise and lower ships

from sea level to the lake, a distance of 85 feet,

e excavate a ditch at the other end of the lake through

the mountains of the Continental divide, and

* build locks to lower and raise ships to a dredged channel and harbor on the Pacific side.

The monumental project was completed in ten years at

a cost of $387 million.

18
TREATIES-OLD AND NEW

In 1903 the United States and the newly independent

Republic of Panama signed a treaty giving the U.S. not

only the right to build a canal but also the right to exercise

jurisdiction, as if sovereign, over a 10-mile-wide strip across

the nation.

The jurisdiction was in perpetuity-forever-and the

strip of land became the Panama Canal Zone.

In return, the United States gave Panama an initial payment of $10 million plus $250,000 annual rent and guaranteed Panama's independence.

Historically, many Panamanians were dissatisfied with

the 1903 treaty. Over the years it was amended-in 1936

and again in 1955-but the dissatisfaction remained. In

1964, a long and complicated renegotiation process started.

19
Two new treaties were arrived at and were signed on

September 7, 1977.

One is the basic treaty governing the operation and

defense of the Canal which extends through December 31,

1999. The other guarantees the permanent neutrality of

the canal.

These treaties were approved by the Panamanian people

in October 1977 and ratified by the United States Senate

in March and April 1978. When the new treaties became

effective on October 1, 1979, the Canal Zone ceased to

exist and the territory was turned over to the Republic of

Panama.

In brief, the new treaties provide that the United States

will have responsibility for the operation of the Canal

throughout the remainder of this century. It will have access to land and water areas and facilities needed for the

operation of the Canal during that period.

The Panama Canal Commission, created by the treaties

to operate the Canal, is a U.S. government agency supervised by a board composed of five American and four

Panamanian members. The new Commission replaces the

Panama Canal Company. According to the treaties, Panamanian participation in the operation and defense of the

Canal will increase throughout the treaty period until the

year 2000 when Panama will assume full responsibility for

the Canal.

When the treaties came into effect on October 1, 1979,

the Canal Zone disappeared and Panama assumed juris20
diction of the former Zone. U.S. military bases in Panama

on that date came under a Status of Forces Agreement

(SOFA).

The United States retains criminal jurisdiction over its

nationals working for the Commission for the first 30 months

of the treaty, or until April 1, 1982. After that date, Panama will exercise primary criminal jurisdiction with the

understanding that as a matter of policy it generally will

waive jurisdiction to the United States. U.S. citizen employees and their dependents charged with crimes will be

entitled to procedural guarantees and will be permitted to

serve any sentence in the United States.

In addition, U.S. citizen employees of the Commission

will enjoy rights and protections similar to those extended

to U.S. government employees elsewhere abroad.

The Status Of Forces Agreement (SOFA)

Military personnel stationed in the Republic of Panama

are subject to three sets of laws:

* the Uniform Code of Military Justice,

- United States Federal law, and

* Panamanian laws.

United States citizen dependents are subject to two legal

systems:

" United States Federal law, and

" Panamanian laws.

Article IV of the SOFA provides that the United States

has the primary right to exercise jurisdiction over members

21
of the U.S. Forces, members of the civilian component,

and dependents of these individuals, who commit offenses

on Defense Sites, in Military Areas of Coordination, Canal

Operating Areas, and Areas of Civil Coordination for

Housing.

Additionally, the United States has the primary right to

exercise jurisdiction for offenses committed in the civilian

community when:

* the offense is against the United States' security (sabotage, espionage, or treason).

- the offense is solely against the person or property of

a member of the Forces, the civilian component, or a

dependent of these individuals, or

* if the offense arises out of an act or omission done in

the performance of official duty.

The Republic of Panama has the primary right to exercise jurisdiction over all other offenses committed within

the Republic of Panama. Personnel who violate Panamanian law may be arrested by the Guardia Nacional and

tried in Panamanian courts.

Under the SOFA, the United States authorities are entitled to the custody of U.S. Forces members or dependents who commit offenses in the Republic of Panama, with

five exceptions. These are in cases where the individual is

charged with:

- murder,

" rape,

- robbery with violence,

22
" trafficking in drugs, and

* crimes against the security of Panama.

In these instances, the individual will remain in the custody of Panamanian authorities, and if in U.S. custody

will be transferred upon request to Panamanian custody.

It is important that U.S. Forces members or dependents

identify themselves to Panamanian authorities, since these

authorities have agreed to notify U.S. authorities when

members of the U.S. Forces or dependents are detained.

The notification permits U.S. authorities to request custody of the detained person.

Three areas of offenses can cause major problems for

U.S. Force members, members of the civilian component,

and the dependents of these individuals. They are:

-drug offenses. The Republic of Panama has strict laws

on the possession and/or use of illegal drugs, including

marijuana. Conviction for the use, possession, and trafficking in drugs can bring a maximum sentence of eight

years in prison,

-disrespect to a Panamanian official. Disrespect includes a broad range of actions, such as walking away from

and ignoring a member of the Guardia Nacional when he

is addressing you, answering him in a loud or belligerent

manner, or striking, abusing, or appearing to strike or

abuse a member of the Guardia Nacional, and

-traffic incidents. Individuals stopped for traffic offenses should be aware that the Guardia Nacional officer will

23
take the driver's license of the offender at the time he

issues the citation. The license will be returned after an

appearance in court and the payment of any fine. Individuals involved in a traffic accident should never leave

the scene of the accident without authorization.

24
YOUR HOSTS-THE PANAMANIANS

In your travels around the Republic of Panama to visit

its different and colorful regions you will notice one thingthere is no racial discrimination anywhere in the nation

even though its population is made up of a wide variety

of races.

Except for the native Indians, the culture, customs, and

language of the Panamanians are basically Caribbean

Spanish, part of the heritage that the early explorers and

settlers left behind. The great majority of the people, about

70 percent, is mestizo-mixed Spanish, Indian, and West

Indian Negro.

In the cities you will find small separate communities

of different races that have remained relatively unmixed.

These include East Indians and Chinese whose ancestors

worked on both the French and the American canals. There

25
are also small communities of descendants of Africans who

were brought into the country by the Spanish to serve as

slaves in transporting the gold and silver across the isthmus

for shipment to Spain.

Then, there are the colorful native Indians of Panama.

These are the Cuna Indians of the San Blas Islands and

region, the Chocos of the Darien region, and the Guaymies. Each tribe still maintains its distinctive identity, traditions, and language.

Spanish is the official language of the country, although

English is a common second language, especially in the

cities and ports that are located at both ends of the Canal.

This mixture of cultures, customs, and peoples over the

centuries makes the country one of the most interesting

to visit in the Americas.

When you start meeting Panamanians and other Latins

socially and at your work, keep in mind that the Latin

personality includes a lot of personal dignity. The Latins

are proud and individualistic.

They won't be hurried in their tasks, but the work, when

it is finished, will usually be of high quality.

Because of the tropical climate of the country, most

Panamanians dress casually.

But when it's fiesta time, out come the elaborate national costumes. For the women dancing the tamborito or

cumbia, the national dances of Panama, it will be either

a pollera-a dress made of light, white fabric with many

petticoats and an "off-the-shoulder" look-or the mon26
tuna-a blouse much the same as the top of the pollera

but with a skirt made of cotton with bright printed patterns. The montuna is topped off with a black and white

hat.

For the men, the national costume is the montuno-a

hip-length shirt of homespun cotton, often with embroidered patterns, and a pair of knee-length trousers.

The family is the basic social unit in Panama, and at the

many festivals you will see entire families of two or three

generations enjoying the sun, the food, and the entertainment.

Holidays celebrated in Panama are:

-New Year's Day,

-Martyr's Day, January 9,

-Tuesday Carnival (movable),

-Holy Week (movable),

-Labor Day, May 1

-Foundation of Old Panama, August 15,

-Anniversary of the Revolution, October 11,

-Columbus Day, October 12,

-People's Day, November 2,

-Anniversary of Independence from Colombia, November 3,

-Struggle for Independence, November 10,

-Anniversary of Independence from Spain, November

28,

-Mother's Day, December 8,

-Christmas Day

27
Elena O ocas del Toro

Almirante

Rio Changuino oolf d. le Mosuitos Colon

Cerro Punta -. as Toro

Cocle

La Concepcion E

Penionome David 

hqu Pedregal CVeraguas

Inter-American Highway Puro Armuelles- Aguadulce

-Santiago

Rio San Pablo Chitre;

Panama F Herrera

International boundary

* K / Los Santos

National capital

Road

*Divisions are provincias except for San Blas,

which is an intendencia.

0 25 50 75 Kilometers

0 25 50 75 Miles
Caribbean Sea

FjPorvenr onColon 

Gto de Sim 11as

Colon

Cristobal * 

Mamden Laxe -Canita

n a --0Chepo* eC 

Panama Canal Lago Bayano

01 Panama

Panama Balboa

La Chorrera

Bay f PaamaRio 

Chucunaque

ARCHPIELAGO 

DE LAS La Palma PERLAS

Rio Tuira

Guff of PanuAa Darien

Rio Balsas

S$ 5ss

N entos ~

Pacific Ocean
ENJOYING PANAMA

During your stay in Panama you may find time passing

faster than you thought would be possible.

There are so many things to see and do in the country

that weekends and leave time will be eagerly awaited events.

Every U.S. installation in the country has active programs for leisure time.

You can take Spanish lessons during the evening hours

in order to better know your Panamanian hosts and hostesses. One good thing about taking Spanish lessons is that

you will be able to practice with the Panamanians who will

be working with you in offices throughout the military

support system. More than 75 percent of the work force

at U.S. installations are Panamanians, some of whom have

been employed for more than 40 years.

30
Panama is a sports paradise, whether you are a fan or

a player.

The year-round temperate climate, long hours of sunshine, and well-maintained athletic facilities can make this

one of the most pleasant tours you have ever had.

But there's more than just the facilities at your base or

installation.

Sports For All

Name your favorite warm-weather sport and you will

find it in Panama.

Water sports abound in this tropical country. Swimming

and sunbathing can be enjoyed at any one of a thousand

beaches along the Pacific and Atlantic coasts of the country. Snorkeling and scuba diving will give you a chance to

get acquainted with the hundreds of varieties of fish that

are found in the waters off the coasts and at inland lakes.

Surfing along the coasts is popular, and boating-sail as

well as power-is available at the American installations

as well as at every Panamanian resort.

Panama is an old Indian word meaning "the place where

the fish are many." That was true when only Indians lived

in the area and is true today. Lake fishing for peacock

bass along the Canal is a popular pastime, but for the big

thrills, rent a guide and an ocean-going boat for some

deep-sea fishing.

Baseball can be played at every level. At the American

installations there are leagues that play 12 months of the

year. From December through February, national teams

31
play seven days a week. Professional golf at its best can

be seen in February when the Panama Golf Club's Open

attracts outstanding international players.

Tennis is a popular sport. There are courts at every U.S.

installation.

There's also boxing on weekends, soccer-called "Fut"

in Latin America-basketball, and horse races.

For those with an eye to something new, cockfights take

the spotlight every Sunday and Monday at the Club Gallistico de Panama. The rules have been modified and it's

no longer a fight to the finish for these feathered warriors.

Eating Out

In every city of any size in Panama you will find that

your choice of meals in the restaurants reflects both the

mingling of the many cultures over the centuries in the

country and the wealth of oceans that lap against the Pacific and Atlantic shores.

While there are many mixtures, there are also dishes

that are native to the country itself and reflect its proud

heritage.

A favorite among the Panamanians, is the appetizer

ceviche (seh-vee-chee). Small, delicate, bite-size pieces of

the flavorful corbina, a native fish, are marinated in lime

juices and then served.

You might want a steaming bowl of a meal-in-one for

most Panamanians, sancocho (san-ko-cho), a thick chicken

soup.

32
Another favorite filler for everyone who tries it is a

carimahola, (carie-man-yola), a yucca puff filled with tender

Panamanian beef.

Native rice with its own delicate flavor, as well as all

types of vegetables, complement any meal. Another favorite is patacone (pah-tah-koh-nee), fried green plantain.

Other native dishes are gallo pinto (gal-yo pin-to), sort

of a stew with meat, rice, and beans; sopa de marisco (sopa deh ma-risko), shellfish soup; and guacho de almejas

(wah-cho deh al-may-hoss), rice and clams.

The riches of the seas provide food for every Panamanian and visitor.

The restaurants serve lobsters large enough to feed two

diners, giant shrimp, clams and oysters, squid, eel, and

food fish of every variety.

Or, if you decide on beef, you can feed to your fill on

steaks of all types, since beef raising is an important part

of the country's agricultural scene.

But these native dishes are only the tip of the eatingout iceberg.

Because the country has been host to so many different

foreign visitors over the centuries, some welcome, some

not so welcome, there are restaurants to tempt every taste.

Colombia,which once ruled the country, and Costa Rica,

a neighbor, have contributed to the fine meals that are

served in the larger cities. Spain's cooking secrets have

not been lost either. Chinese restaurants have sprung up

throughout Panama, many owned and operated by de33
scendants of the laborers brought to work on the Canal.

Whatever the meal, you may wish to complement it with

one of the fine local beers.

For dessert, any one of the locally grown fruits-bananas, pineapples, oranges, mangoes-and then a cup of

the country's famous Panamanian coffee.

Tipping is expected in restaurants. The service will be

the best you have ever experienced, so 15 percent of the

bill is not too large a tip to leave for your waiter or waitress.

Indian Cultures

No trip to Panama would be complete without a visit

to any one or all three of the remaining Indian tribes that

were native to the region.

Though they are Panamanians, these Indians live in their

own regions, follow their own tribal laws, and use their

own language. Civilization for most of them lasts only for

a few hours when they visit one of the nation's cities to

trade their handicrafts for food and modern conveniences.

The most primitive of the Panamanian Indians are the

Chocos, who reside in the Darien region of the country.

They live today in very much the same fashion as they did

when Balboa first met them as he crossed the isthmus 450

years ago to discover the Pacific from his celebrated "peak

in Darien." Today missionaries are working with representatives of the central government to bring these native

Panamanians into the mainstream of the nation.

Tours to the Choco Indian tribal regions can be booked

at Panama City.

34
Of the three Indian tribes, the Cuna Indians of the San

Blas Islands and coastal region are the most highly organized and economically active. The women of the tribe

have maintained the customs and culture more than the

men. Whether on the islands, on the mainland, or in the

largest city of the country, the Cuna women wear their

appliqued mola blouse, gold rings, a long skirt, red and

yellow beaded headdress, and gold ornaments at neck,

arm, and ankle. The molas that the Cuna women make

are a distinctive art form in reverse applique work. A

matching pair of molas-the front and back of a blousemay take up to 50 hours to make, but the elaborate designs

can take up to a year. They have become popular as collectors' items not only in the Americas but also throughout

Europe.

Tours to the San Blas Islands and other regions of the

Cuna Indians can be booked through travel agencies in

Panama City as well as other cities of the country.

The largest tribal grouping, the Guaymi Indians, live in

the area between the Panama-Costa Rica border and the

Veraguas region. This is the Chiriqui section of the country

known for its cattle, cowboys, horse breeding, coffee plantations, and farms. The Guaymi Indians are the most assimilated of the three groups but have still managed to

hold on to their own culture and customs. Elaborate beaded

necklaces-chaquira-are worn by the men of the tribe,

along with matching arm and ankle bands.

The easiest place to meet the Guaymi is at Tole, just

35
off the Pan-American Highway where from time to time

they set up small stands along the roadway to sell chaquira.

The Canal

Since U.S. Forces are assigned in Panama to support

and defend the Panama Canal, your first sight to see should

be the Canal itself.

The basic facts of the Canal are easy to state.

It is 52 miles (82 kilometers) in length and runs from

north to south through Panama.

The Canal consists of two short sea-level sections at each

end, three pairs of locks that lift ships to 85 feet above

sea level, and a 32-mile elevated section that cuts through

the Continental Divide and includes Gatun Lake and the

famous Gaillard Cut.

A trip through the Canal shortens the voyage from either

coast of the United States to the other coast by about

8,000 nautical miles.

Each ship that transits the Canal pays a toll based on

its displacement tonnage. The average is about $21,500 a

ship and some 15,000 vessels pass through the Canal each

year. The highest toll paid was for the Queen Elizabeth

II which paid $89,154.62; the smallest toll ever paid was

the $0.36 charged Richard Halliburton when he swam the

entire length of the Canal in 1928.

Each ship that transits the locks uses some 52,000,000

gallons of water.

What is difficult to state and appreciate is the human

36
suffering and hard work that went into the construction

of the Canal between 1903, when the Americans started

work, and August 1914, when the first ship passed through

from the Atlantic to the Pacific.

Your installation library will have many books on how

the Canal was constructed and how it operates. But, for

a close-up view of the skill of the workers and the thoroughness of those military personnel and civilians who

planned for today's Canal in the early 20th century, take

a free tour of the facility.

While there are many other sights to see in Panama,

this could be well the high point of your tour.

Carnival Time

Panama's four-day carnival just before Lent is the nation's time to let go.

In every city and village there will be parades, dances,

floats, fireworks, and sports contests of every description.

This is the time to eat, drink, and make merry before

the Lenten season starts.

Coronation balls for local carnival queens are social events

in every locality. These start the festivities on Friday and

Saturday. Sunday is pollera day when women dress in their

finest native wear. Monday is the day for street dancing,

and Tuesday is the day for the floats.

At dawn on Ash Wednesday, the country returns to

normal after four days of fun and festivity.

Every village, every town, and every section of a larger

city will have fiestas for their patron saints.

117
More to See

But there are many other things to see and do in Panama.

While the listing below is not complete, it will give you

some idea of the variety of the countryside and the cultural

background of the people.

Panama City is really three cities. There is Old Panama

that Morgan the pirate burned but which still lives today

in the ruins of a church and other buildings about six miles

from the center of the new city. There is Colonial Panama

with its narrow streets, iron lace balconies, Church of the

Golden Altar, the National Theater, and the French Plaza.

Then there is Modern Panama with its fabulous shopping, hotels, casinos, and exciting nightlife.

Panama City is also the capital of the nation, the seat

of government, and has four internationally acclaimed

museums where the cultural history of the nation and its

people can be studied at your leisure.

Out in the Gulf of Panama are the fabulous Perlas (Pearl)

Islands of the Spaniards. The pearls are long gone, but

the beauty remains. A 15-minute flight from the city takes

you to Contadora where a multimillion dollar tourist complex makes living easy as you enjoy the beaches, fishing,

and just sunbathing.

A different type of life awaits you when you visit Taboga

Island, an hour away by launch from the bustle of the city.

Here is a paradise for those tired of the horns and pollution

38
of the automobile age. There are no cars on the island,

but there are beaches, water-skiing, swimming, and relaxation.

On the Atlantic side is the centuries-old port city of

Col6n and the port of Crist6bal, both named after Christopher Columbus.

Shops with goods from every country in the world line

the streets of these cities. And after the shopping, there

are restaurants and bars that have been greeting visitors

for over 100 years.

When on the Atlantic side of the Isthmus, a visit to the

historic Fort San Lorenzo, guarding the mouth of the

Chagres River, is a must. The ruins of Portobelo also

abound with history of the Spanish quest for gold and offer

marvelous scuba diving in the crystal clear waters of the

Caribbean.

Only a short distance from either of those two cities is

the home of the Cuna Indians. Some live in the coastal

areas, but a short flight, or a launch trip, will take you to

any of the hundreds of San Blas islands. There you can

bargain for a mola, enjoy a lobster lunch, or just watch

the blue water lap on the white sandy shores.

Further afield you might want to drive over to David,

capital of the Chiriqui Province, to enjoy the green cool

highlands of that area. Here is where you will find orange

groves, cattle and horse ranches, coffee plantations, and

mountain streams where the trout are unbelievably large.

This area is also the home of the Guaymi Indians who

39
sell their handicraft in most of the cities and along the

roadways.

Darien Province, the least-populated of all the parts of

the country, is the home of the Choco Indians. The hunting

is fine and varied, but to visit this area you will need a

guide. Your best bet is to take one of the tours that are

offered. Then, if you like the isolation and quiet, make

arrangements to return on your own with a good Indian

guide.

These are only highlights of what Panama offers.

Don't lose a moment after getting settled into your job

and your home to start enjoying your host nation of Panama.

40
DAILY LIVING

Stepping off an aircraft into Panama is like arriving at

any city in the Sun Belt of the United States.

The weather will be warm, ranging from 74 degrees to

91 degrees Fahrenheit. The rainy season-this means at

least one shower a day-is from April until December.

After you get settled into your home or quarters you will

find that it will be necessary to have some sort of drying

equipment in closets.

During the dry season, the trade winds blow steadily,

and the humidity is much lower.

Money

The monetary unit of Panama is the Balboa, a coin,

41
which is divided into 100 centesimos. Panamanian coins

and U.S. coins are the same size, weight, and are used

interchangeably. For paper currency, the U.S. dollar circulates freely throughout the country.

Pets

If you decide to ship the family pet to Panama at your

expense, you will need to ship with the pet a current health

certificate, current rabies vaccination, and a copy of your

orders to indicate where you can be reached. All pets

entering Panama must be quarantined for 30 days at the

owner's expense. The quarantine station is operated by

the U.S. Army in Corozal. Before shipping a pet, check

with your Transportation Management Office for information on any restrictions.

Electricity

Electric current in Panama is the same as in the United

States, and all appliances will work properly.

Your Car

All military and civilian personnel assigned to Panama

are authorized the shipment of one privately-owned vehicle at government expense. The importation of a second

vehicle-except in the case of a joint spouse assignment,

when both members have a POV shipment privilege-will

result in payment of vehicle import taxes which are very

expensive.

42
Local Transportation

Getting around without a vehicle is not difficult but can

be expensive. Taxis with meters are plentiful. Installation

buses provide transportation between the sometimes widely

separated parts of the U.S. complex, and bicycles can be

purchased at the exchange.

On the economy, in addition to the taxis, there is an

efficient bus system which covers not only the cities but

continues on to serve many of the villages of the country.

Air transportation is widely used to visit the outlying

regions and is a must if you want to see the Cuna Indians

on San Blas Islands or enjoy the beaches of the Contadora

resort in the Gulf of Panama.

National Guard

If you become involved in an accident or violation of

the law off base, or if you need help, you will come in

contact with Panama's National Guard, or Guardia Nacional. These men and women are Panana's combined

police and armed forces.

They are respected by the local population and will not

look kindly upon any challenge to their authority.

If you need directions or assistance, ask any member of

the National Guard. If he or she does not wear the "tourista" patch which indicates they can speak a foreign language, they will have access to a telephone to contact

someone who can speak English.

If you should happen to come in contact with the Na43
tional Guard in their law enforcement capacity and are

taken into custody, remain calm and courteous.

Under the Status of Forces Agreement (SOFA) which

became effective on October 1, 1979, the Guardia Nacional is to report any arrest of U.S. military personnel or

their dependents to the military police of the nearest U.S.

installation.

The SOFA does not protect you from prosecution for

a crime. It does, however, guarantee you certain rights.

Drugs are illegal in any form anywhere in Panama. There

is a "guilt by association" clause in Panama's laws which

means that if you are found by the police in a car, room,

or other place where drugs are present you may be apprehended and may be prosecuted.

Military members may not wear the uniform off-base

or outside of the Panama Canal operating areas on personal business. If a member of the Guardia sees you shopping or banking or doing other personal business outside

of the permitted areas, you may be taken into custody.

44
GETTING READY TO GO

Going on a tour of duty in a foreign country is no different than getting ready for any other change of station.

It takes a little more preparation, but if you start early,

you should have no difficulty.

The following checklist will help you gather together all

of the documents and items that you should have in your

possession before starting on your foreign tour.

Checklist

Personal Items

II Passport-one for the sponsor and one for each family

member

0 Military identification cards for every family member

45
l Permanent change of station orders-at least three copies for sponsor and each family member

D Immunization record-complete record for every family member, plus copies of other vital health records.

If any member of the family needs special health care,

that fact should be reported to your Service health

authorities as soon as PCS orders are received.

l Current driver's license for every adult member

R School records for each child, including last report cards

L Birth certificates for all members; adoption papers (if

any)

l Marriage certificate(s); divorce/annulment decree(s)

R Power of attorney, if needed

L Copy of current will and letter of instruction

LI Copies of prescriptions for every family member

L Naturalization document(s), if any

l Uniforms, civilian clothing as required

POV, Household

LI Vehicle title, registration

El Extra set of car keys

LI Insurance policies on POV, household goods, family

members

El Inventory of household goods being shipped

For Travel

L Overnight toilet articles, including toilet paper

LI Portable radio, battery operated

46
L Traveler's checks, other forms of funds

F U.S. bank checkbook, extra checks

Fi Portcall instructions

Fi One-cup heating element, 110/230v

Li Alarm clock, windup model

Other Items

Li Credit cards, with list of numbers and addresses where

to report loss

L List of companies due payment from you, with addresses

L Safe deposit box key, with list of items in box

L Previous discharge certificates, if any

L High school, college records

L Information from the installation veterinarian office if

pet is to be shipped

47
YOUR ROLE IN PANAMA

Your role as a Norteamericano in Panama is an easy

one-to make friends among the Panamanians so that the

relations between our countries remain at the high level

of goodwill they have enjoyed since 1903.

Your Panamanian friends and co-workers have seen

thousands of Americans come and go over the years the

people of both countries have worked together.

If you can add just a few more pleasant memories to

those already held by Panamanians, your role will have

been accomplished.

Have a pleasant stay in one of the Americas' most fascinating countries.

48
SPANISH LANGUAGE GUIDE

Spanish is an easy language to learn, even if you have

not already studied it in school. The grammar is a bit

complicated and rigid, compared to English, but you can

learn a lot by ear if you practice the language and listen

to people speak.

GREETINGS AND GENERAL PHRASES

English Spanish Pronunciation

Hello! ;Hola.' OH-lah!

Good morning/good day Buenos dias BWEN-ohz DEEahss

Good afternoon Buenas tardes BWEN-ahss TARDESS

Good evening/good Buenas noches BWEN-ahss NOnight chess

49
English Spanish Pronunciation

How are you? ZComo estd usted? ZKOH-moh essTAH oo-STED?

I am well Estoy bien ess-TOY bi-EN

Sir/Mister Senor sen-YOR

Madam/Mrs. Seftora sen-YO-rah

Miss Senorita sen-yo-REE-tah

Please Por favor por fah-VOR

Excuse me Disp nseme dees-PEN-say-may

Thank you Gracias GRAHSS-yahss

You are welcome No hay de qui NOH AH-ee day

KAY

How much iCudnto 6KWAHN-toh

costs cuesta KWESS-tah

this? esto? ESS-toh?

Yes Si SEE

No No NOH

DAYS OF THE WEEK

English Spanish Pronunciation

Sunday domingo doh-MEEN-go

Monday lunes LOO-ness

Tuesday martes MAR-tess

Wednesday miercoles mee-EHR-koh-less

Thursday jueves HWEH-vess

Friday viernes vee-EHR-ness

Saturday sdbado SAH-bah-doh

NUMBERS

English Spanish Pronunciation

One uno 00-no

Two dos DOHSS

Three tres TRESS

Four cuatro KWAH-troh

50
English Spanish Pronunciation

Five cinco SEEN-koh

Six seis SAY-eess

Seven siete see-EH-tay

Eight ocho OH-choh

Nine nueve NWEV-ay

Ten diez dee-EHSS

SIGNS FREQUENTLY SEEN

Spanish English

A bierto Open

Alto Stop

Cerrado Closed

Conserve su derecha Keep to the right

Cruce Crossroad

Despacio Go slow

Desvio Detour

Entrada Entrance

No hay paso No thoroughfare

Peligro Danger

Prohibida la entrada No entrance/Keep out

Prohibido el estacionamiento No parking

Prohibido fumar No smoking

Salida Exit

SeioraslMujeres/Damas Women

Seniores/Hombres/Caballeros Men

Weights And Measures

Un centimetro (sen-TEE-meh-tro).0.39 inch

Un metro (MEH-tro).1.1 yards or 39.37 inches

Un kilometro (kee-LO-meh-tro) .0.62 mile

Un gramo (GRAH-mo) .0.035 ounce

Un kilo (KEE-lo).2.2 pounds

Un litro (LEE-tro).1.06 quarts

51
THE SECRETARY OF DEFENSE

Washington

September 1981

A POCKET GUIDE TO PANAMA (DoD PGA-This

official Department of Defense publication is for the use

of personnel in the military Services.

52 U.S. GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE : 1981 0 - 350-858

UNIVERSITY OF FLORIDA

3 1262 09083 1065

1;4

-Wy- I*

II

fi

4t'

~* 

41

o 4

-* 

** * 

*"

4s

. *7