Surprise Valley 

Barrel Springs

Back Country Byway

A Self-Guided Tour

Bureau of Land Management 
2

Welcome to the road less traveled! Few people get to 

experience the beautiful mountains and valley you see 

on the front cover. This brochure and map will tell you 

how to find and explore Surprise Valley- how it got its 

name, the history of the emigrants who ventured west 

in 1849, and the geological wonders that have shaped 

this landscape.

Getting There: From U.S. Hwy. 395 in California, five miles 

north of Alturas, Modoc County, take California Hwy. 299 east 

to Cedarville, California. From Interstate 80 at Wadsworth in 

Nevada, 30 miles east of Reno, take Nevada Hwy. 447 north 

through Gerlach, 141 miles to Cedarville, California.

A map showing the location of Cedarville and major highways in the area
SURPRISE VALLEY-BARREL SPRINGS

BACK COUNTRY BYWAY

A SELF-GUIDED TOUR

Pronghorn antelope with Mount Bidwell in the background
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1. THE SECRET VALLEY..............1

2. BYWAY LOOP MAP.................10

3. BYWAY DRIVING TOUR..........12

4. VISITOR TIPS............................28

5. WILDFLOWER GUIDE.............30

CONTENTS

Lake City Flouring Mill circa 1900
THE SECRET VALLEY

The Warner Mountains soar up from the valley floor like a scene from 

an Ansel Adams photograph. In the valley, coveys of quail trickle 

across the quiet streets in little towns. At twilight, herds of mule deer 

join cattle and sheep in the green fields. There are no stoplights, no 

traffic, and no sirens. This is where the paved road ends. This place, 

Surprise Valley, is so removed, so distinct from the rest of California, 

that you, like others, may come to find that it is the Golden State’s 

best kept secret. 

QUIET LITTLE TOWNS AT THE EDGE OF THE

WILD WEST

The Byway route through Surprise Valley will take you through a varied 

landscape of quiet, small communities nestled at the base of a mountain 

range and the high desert filled with sagebrush and juniper trees. As you 

travel through this landscape, you are a time traveler in the wild west with 

historic buildings and a country that is tough and unyielding.

The Back Country Byway is a great opportunity to experience the “forgotten 

California” where hustle and bustle are far away and the landscape 

seems unchanged.
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There are few places on this earth where 

it is possible to travel so quickly from 

one type of ecosystem to another. A 

short drive from Cedar Pass to Surprise 

Valley takes you from alpine peaks and 

pine forests to arid valley floors and 

sagebrush-covered hills. Once you arrive 

in Surprise Valley you enter the world of 

the Great Basin. 

This is a dynamic, ever-changing 

landscape full of challenges. The plants, 

animals, and people that succeed 

here have been able to adapt to arid 

conditions, unpredictable droughts, and 

long, cold winters. It is also a land full of 

beauty and wonder.

Since people first arrived in the Great 

Basin, climate and geology have dictated 

where and how they have lived. 

Yet as the landscape continues to change, what will be the effect on us? Or 

has technology removed us from these concerns? 

At the end of your Byway journey you will have a deeper understanding and 

can ponder the question yourself.

A SENSE OF PLACE

A JOURNEY OF MANY STORIES

The Bureau of Land Management established Back Country Byways, part of 

the National Scenic Byways network, to provide recreational and educational 

opportunities for visitors who are passionate about taking the road less 

traveled and learning about this places’ natural and cultural history.

On this journey, you will see evidence of ancient volcanic eruptions, stand 

on a prehistoric beach where people hunted Ice Age animals, re-live a time 

when the U.S. Army Cavalry was stationed at Fort Bidwell, and imagine 

emigrants coming across the rugged landscape in search of a better life.

The Milky Way over Long Valley
THE HISTORY OF A NAME

Warner Mountains: The Warner Mountains, previously known as the 

Warners Range, was named for Captain W. H. Warner of the U.S. Army Corps 

of Topographic Engineers, who explored the Sierra Nevada Mountains for 

better wagon routes. Captain Warner was killed at the eastern base of the 

mountains in 1849.

Surprise Valley: Contrary to local lore (and previous versions of this 

booklet), Surprise Valley was not named by pioneers traveling the Applegate 

Trail. Alas, if the emigrants had a name for this valley it was never written in 

a diary or has been lost to time. The valley was named by Captain Alanson 

Nightingill in 1860. 

After the Battles of Pyramid Lake, Captain Nightingill and the Truckee 

Rangers were in pursuit of Paiute Indians in the Black Rock Desert region. To 

their astonishment, they came across the valley which they believe no white 

person had ever seen before. Nightingill insisted that they name the area 

after their first impression of the valley, Surprise!

Fort Bidwell: This place was originally called Tusi’yamus (“Grassy Corner”) 

by the Northern Paiute Indians. The town of Fort Bidwell is named after 

General John Bidwell. Camp Bidwell was originally located near Chico, 

California. When this camp was abandoned, the name transferred to the U.S. 

Army fort at the north end of Surprise Valley.

Lake City: This town was formerly known as Tri-Lake City and named for the 

three lakes in the valley. The Northern Paiute called the upward tilting peak 

south of town Hu na’-na-mubi (“Badger His Nose”).

Cedarville: The origin of the town’s name is unclear. It may have been 

named after Cedarville, Ohio (the hometown of one of Cedarville’s founders) 

or after a large cedar tree growing in the canyon above the town. The 

Northern Paiute Indians called this place Pa-su-bi (“Water Willow”).

Eagleville: This community south of Cedarville is named after nearby 

Eagle Peak. At 9,892 feet above sea level (3,015 meters), Eagle Peak is the 

highest point in the Warner Mountains.
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A YOUNG AND DYNAMIC LANDSCAPE

In geological terms, the rugged landscape of Surprise Valley is relatively 

young with its formation beginning approximately 20 million years ago in a 

series of volcanic events associated with basalt (a dark extrusive volcanic 

rock) and rhyolite (a light extrusive volcanic rock) flows. 

After a relatively quiet period of three million years, volcanic activity 

associated with the Yellowstone Caldera flooded the area with more basalt.

Around this time formation of the Basin and Range increased (and continues 

even today). From Canada to Mexico and from Wyoming to California, the 

land surface is being pulled apart east to west by faults deep within 

the earth. As the earth crust is strained in this way, normal faults develop, 

and blocks of the crust drop down to form valleys. The result is a vast 

landscape of alternating north-south trending valleys and ridges.

Fifteen million years ago, rhyolitic lava flows and ash flows covered portions 

of northwestern Nevada. Basalt flows then covered the ashfall and the 

extreme pressure and heat “welded” the tuff. Large rivers with forested 

floodplains drained towards the Pacific Ocean.

These rivers carried nodules of obsidian (volcanic glass) miles downstream, 

and today these rocks are distributed throughout the Massacre Lake and 

Duck Flat basins near Surprise Valley. 

Middle Alkali Lake in Surprise Valley
The basalt-capped layers of volcanic ash and welded tuff at Painted Point

Animals (such as camels, rhinoceroses, three-toed horses, and mastodons) 

and plants (such as redwoods and oak trees) flourished between eruptions.

Approximately three million years ago, the Sierra Nevada Mountain Range 

and the Warner Mountain Range began to uplift. These uplifts cut off the 

flow of the rivers towards the Pacific and today all the precipitation that falls 

on this valley never leaves the Great Basin.

The Earth has experienced at least five major ice ages with the most recent 

one beginning approximately 2.5 million years ago. 

Up until about 20,000 years ago, the northern half of North America was 

covered with ice sheets. These sheets of glacial ice were massive with some 

almost 2 miles (3 kilometers) thick.

As the Earth’s climate warmed, glaciers began to melt, and large lakes filled 

the valley floors throughout the Great Basin. Pleistocene Lake Surprise filled 

this valley and Duck Flat basin to the south. The lake was 577 feet (176 

meters) deep when it reached its last high stand about 15,000 years ago.
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When people arrived in Surprise Valley more than 10,000 years ago, they 

would have found a 50-mile (80 kilometers) long lake along the edge of the 

Warner Mountains. The hills surrounding Pleistocene Lake Surprise were 

much greener than today and people hunted now-extinct species of camels, 

horses, and bison. Beginning about 5,000 B.C. and lasting for approximately 

2,000 years, the climate warmed considerably and the Great Basin 

experienced a severe drought. During this time, the Great Basin was largely 

uninhabitable except for unique places such as Surprise Valley. 

By 4,500 B.C., people were living along the edges of the present-day lakes 

on the basin floors of Surprise Valley. Around 3,000 B.C. the climate became 

wetter and grasslands expanded across the northern Great Basin. Herds of 

large game increased, and people communally hunted pronghorn antelope 

in large drives. 

Yet, conditions drastically changed. Beginning 1,300 years ago this region 

has experienced decades-long, intermittent droughts. Perhaps due to these 

unpredictable droughts, the introduction of the bow-and-arrow, or the arrival 

of new groups, people abandoned these winter villages and began living in 

different parts of the valley. 

FIRST PEOPLE ON THE SHORES OF LAKE 

SURPRISE

THE NORTHERN PAIUTE OF SURPRISE VALLEY

The Northern Paiute people are an integral part 

of this community and have been in this valley 

since time immemorial. The traditional territory 

of the Northern Paiute spanned a vast area 

across parts of California, Nevada, Idaho and 

Oregon.

The Northern Paiute traditional language, Numu, 

is similar to the language spoken by the ancient 

Aztecs of Mexico and the Ute language in Utah. 

The Northern Paiute people of the valley call 

themselves the “Gidutikadu,” meaning the 

groundhog-eaters.

Yellow-bellied marmot (Marmot

flaviventris) or “groundhog”
THE BIG EMPTY

Along the emigrant trail, the Great 

Basin was known as the “Big Empty.” 

Yet, contrary to this characterization, 

the region was full of people 

whose families had lived there for 

generations. 

In less than 10 years, the indigenous 

American Indians would go from 

a rare, sporadic encounter with 

a foreigner to witnessing tens of thousands of emigrants crossing their 

homeland. Many of the early emigrant trails followed trails created and used 

by American Indians. 

The emigrants and their livestock depleted the forage along the trails, scared 

off wild game that the local tribes depended on, and brought diseases such 

as smallpox.

Military records indicate that most attacks by the Northern Paiute against 

wagon trains were nocturnal raids that targeted the cattle and horses. 

Animals were stolen or wounded to be eaten later. The loss of livestock, 

whether from starvation, dehydration, or raids, was no small matter to the 

pioneers. Oxen (cattle trained to pull wagons) were vital to the emigrant 

families. 

Once they reached their destination, the families relied on milk from the 

cattle to make butter, cheese and other dairy products that were hard to 

come by on rural homesteads. On the trail, these animals pulled the wagon 

which carried families’ belongings. Without livestock, people would have to 

begin their new life with only the items they could carry on their backs.

The Bidwell area was one of the major winter Paiute campsites. These 

hunter-gatherers moved with the seasons to the best sources of food. 

In spring, they traveled to the hills in the east to gather food such as biscuit 

root, onions, and ya’pa’ roots. In the summer they found game and seeds 

available in the mountains and on the volcanic plateaus. Fall was a time 

when family groups went into the canyons for berries and wild plums. 

The Fort Bidwell Indian Reservation in Fort Bidwell and the Cedarville 

Rancheria in Cedarville continue to be the home to many Northern Paiute.
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EARLY HOMESTEADING IN SURPRISE

Emigrants traveling the Applegate-Lassen trail passed through Surprise 

Valley in the 1840s and 1850s on their way to California and Oregon.

As available land in the west 

became scarce, people began 

heading east and homesteading 

in the rural areas of northeastern 

California and southeastern 

Oregon. 

Due to a drought in the 

Sacramento Valley, a number of 

people came to Surprise Valley to 

homestead in the early 1860s. 

The earliest settlers 

homesteaded at the northern end 

of the valley on the winter villages 

of the Northern Paiute. By 1865 

there were about 300 settlers 

throughout the valley. 

As tension between the settlers 

and the Northern Paiute 

increased, the settlers petitioned 

the government to send Army 

troops for protection. A military 

fort was established and named 

in honor of U.S. Representative John Bidwell from Sacramento, California. 

In 1866, 105 Army soldiers were stationed at Fort Bidwell and conflicts with 

local tribes ended in Paiute and pioneer casualties. 

Townsend Street in Cedarville is named for the pioneer settler James 

Townsend who was killed in one of these battles. In 1892, the Army 

presence was no longer needed and the buildings were turned into a 

regional Indian school and hospital.

The communities of Fort Bidwell, Lake City, Cedarville, and Eagleville that 

sprung up in the valley in the 1860’s were outposts in the wilderness. 

Because of their distance from the cities in California (freight wagons took 17 

days for the round trip to Redding), people in the valley were self-sufficient. 

They produced their own lumber using steam sawmills, and flour from waterpowered mills such as the Lake City Flour Mill. 

Unidentified man with dog in Surprise Valley 

circa 1885
Merchants not only sold goods, but served as buyers and the valley’s 

bankers. The residents established schools, hospitals, fire protection, and 

law enforcement.

Surprise Valley today is “hay ranching” country. Ranchers winter their 

cattle on valley pastures. In mid-April “buckaroos” move the cattle onto 

public rangelands managed by the BLM Applegate Field Office in northeast 

California and northwest Nevada. 

In September and October, the “gathering” takes place when cattle are taken 

from the range and returned to their home ranches in and around Surprise 

Valley. While some cattle are transported in trucks and trailers, others return 

home on traditional cattle drives- ranchers on horseback guide the livestock 

along roads (including the Byway) to their winter pasture.

Combine harvester and thresher in Surprise Valley circa 1895


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1. THE BIG SLIDE 

(0.4) On the highway east of 

Cedarville look directly above the 

road at the mountain on the east side 

of the valley where you can see the 

results of a massive earthquake.

At the top of the ridge is a sheer 

cliff in a semi-circle shape. The cliff appears steeper and sharper because 

it is newer and has experienced less erosion. Below the cliff, the collapsed 

hillside descends to the base of the mountain.

The slide is more than 10,000 years old and resulted when a jarring 

earthquake forced a 15-foot uplift of the ridge. 

BYWAY DRIVING TOUR

The Byway tour is a 90-mile loop that begins 

and ends in Cedarville. Allow a minimum of 

three hours for the tour. Take your time and 

enjoy the peace and quiet. Points of interest are 

numbered in order on the route starting to the 

east (CA Highway 299). 

An equally enjoyable journey can be made by 

starting out of Cedarville to the north on County 

Road 1 and following the points of interest in reverse order. The 

figures in parenthesis indicate the distance between the points of 

interest. The mileage begins at the junction of CA Highway 299 and 

County Road 1 in Cedarville (at the four-way stop). Cell phone service 

typically ends at the California-Nevada state line.

BYWAY

TOUR SITE

1
2. ALKALI LAKES

(2.0) Surprise Valley is occupied by a series of alkaline lakes- Lower, Middle, 

and Upper Alkali Lakes.

The combined surface area of the lakes is approximately 85 square miles 

(220 square kilometers).

The lake beds are typically flooded with shallow water during the winter and 

spring, but dry up during most summers. 

Although the water is not potable for humans, the lakes are habitat for fairy 

brine shrimp and migratory birds.

3. MIDDLE LAKE AND THE BISON HUNTERS

(1.3) After you pass the east shoreline of the lakebed, take a 

closer look at the landscape. You will see sand dunes, salt grass flats, and 

bushes growing on the tops of little mounds of soil. It may look like an arid 

desert, but 6,000 years ago the lake had plentiful water and there were 

freshwater marshes along the east shore.

Archaeological excavations in Surprise 

Valley have discovered prehistoric villages 

that existed here before the first cities and 

civilizations in the Middle East.

 The people who lived here built large 

semi-subterranean lodges with walls and 

roofs of woven mats supported by a wooden 

framework. A central hearth was surrounded by sturdy posts 6-8 feet high 

with the top and sides covered with soil for insulation. 

People returned to these winter villages repeatedly for thousands of years. 

Archaeological evidence revealed that these people ate a variety of food. 

They hunted large game such as bighorn sheep, deer, antelope, and bison, 

small game such as jackrabbits and cottontail rabbits, and waterfowl. Edible 

roots and seeds were also eaten.

Approximately 700 years ago, for reasons unknown, most of these villages 

were abandoned and people moved elsewhere on the valley floor. 
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4. HOT SPRINGS AND FAULTS

(0.5) Both sides of the valley have earthquake faults and you are passing 

over one now. The faults have deep shafts hundreds of yards wide formed 

of crushed and ground rock where water can flow through. When the water 

reaches the deep hot layers of rock it is heated and surges back to the 

surface as hot springs. 

On cold mornings steam from these hot springs forms a thick cloud that 

spreads out for a mile like a giant flat mushroom. There are seven hot 

springs throughout Surprise Valley.

5. LIVING IN A RAIN SHADOW

(3.5) This is an ideal location to see the effects of a rain shadow. Most of the 

storms that provide rain and snow to Surprise Valley come from the Pacific 

Ocean. As these storms move west they are blocked by the tall Warner 

Mountains. Consequently, the west side of the mountains receive twice as 

much precipitation than the eastern slopes.

The rain shadow effect is so severe along this side of the valley that even 

a gain in elevation does not change it. 

Although the Hayes Range is more than 

7,500 feet high it lacks the evergreen 

forest that cover the slopes of the Warner 

Mountains.

As a result, plants and animals living east 

of the Warner Mountains have adapted to 

survive in arid conditions.

6. SOARING HIGH ABOVE

(1.3) The abundance of food in Surprise Valley supports a large population of 

eagles, hawks, and falcons.

Eagles are North America’s largest birds of prey 

and are twice the size of hawks. Golden eagles 

nest in canyons and cliffs, including those in front 

of you. Mature bald eagles can be recognized 

by their white head which gives them a “bald” 

appearance. While bald eagles do not nest

These sagebrush uplands are also important 

hunting grounds for golden eagles and 

prairie falcons. Bald eagle
Golden eagle

The brown feathered eagles are twice the size of 

hawks and nest in the cliffs you see in front of 

you and to the north.

The open ground between bushes helps them 

hunt for rabbits and rodents for their young.

If you see a falcon cruising you may want to stop 

and watch, for the power dive of the falcon onto 

its prey is one of nature’s memorable moments.

7. GRAZING ON PUBLIC LANDS

(1.7) Since the arrival of emigrants in the

mid-1800s, livestock grazing has been an integral part of public lands.

Prior to the 1934 Taylor Grazing Act, there were conflicts between ranchers 

across the West (such as the Sheep and Cattle Wars in the late 1800s and 

early 1900s) regarding who could graze public lands.

Overgrazing depleted forage and caused severe erosion along streams 

across the West.

 Congress passed the Taylor Grazing Act to regulate livestock grazing on 

public lands to improve rangeland conditions. Today, the BLM Applegate 

Field Office manages 201 livestock grazing allotments in multiple counties in 

northeastern California and northwestern Nevada.

These allotments are divided into pastures which are used to manage where 

and when cattle and sheep graze. The terms and conditions for grazing 

on public lands are set forth in permits issued by the BLM to public land 

ranchers.
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8. WILD HORSES

(2.8) A small herd of wild horses from the Carter Reservoir Herd lives along 

this part of the Byway. The horses winter within a couple of miles of the 

Byway and move north into higher country during the summer. The herd is 

isolated from other horses to the east and south.

The BLM is responsible for 

managing the herd and 

sees it as an opportunity 

to preserve and foster 

the primitive color and 

markings of the original 

Spanish barb horses.

The distinctive 

characteristics include a 

dark stripe along the spine 

and zebra-like stripes on 

the legs.

Periodically, excess horses 

are gathered and offered 

for adoption. Contact any 

BLM office for adoption information. 

9. REDWOODS AND MAPLES

(1.2) Before the mountains of the Coast Range, Sierra Nevada, and Warners 

uplifted, there were lowland hills from here to the Pacific Ocean. About 11 

million years ago the warmer and wetter hills were covered with lush forests 

of sequoias and maple trees. To the north of the road are areas with petrified 

wood and leaf fossils.

The leaves are located in a band of 

white ashy earth which can be seen 

from the Byway near the top of a 

nearby hill (about a third of a mile 

from the road). The wood is further 

to the northeast and can be found by 

following the jeep trail north to where 

it ends on the top of a knoll. Look on 

the east side of the knoll, near the top. 

Wild horses from the Carter Reservoir herd

Fossil leaves
10. CANYON OF THE 49ERS

(0.3) You are now on the ApplegateLassen Trail, one of the routes of the 

1849 California gold rush. Pioneers 

often used axle grease to sign rocks 

with their initials or the year they 

passed through. For example, the 

first “49” marking on Fortynine Rock 

is said to have been put on with 

wagon axle grease. For the pioneers, 

this rock marked Fortynine Camp 

and was the last place to camp with 

good water before crossing the dry 

basin floor of Surprise Valley.

11. 49 LAKE

(4.5) Weeks before 

the emigrants reached 

this area, their 

journals depicted a 

“dismal, horrible, and 

hellish” experience. 

They had crossed the 

Black Rock Desert 

from the “Humbug” 

River (Humboldt) 

and traveled through 

rugged canyons.

Months had passed since the pioneers left Missouri civilization and many of 

the emigrants were struggling. The weary 49ers came straight west across 

the valley and Fortynine Lake below you. In late summer and fall the lake 

was normally dry, cattle had died or were weak, people were tired or ill, and 

belongings had been abandoned. By the time they reached this valley they 

knew the meaning of suffering along the emigrant trail. An estimated 1 in 17 

perished on the journey. The first view of the mountains of California was 

eagerly anticipated.

Henry Lind’s 1941 photo of 49 Rock
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12. THE MYSTERY OF THE MASSACRE RIM

(5.3) Unlike Egyptian hieroglyphs, the meaning of prehistoric American Indian 

pictographs (painted rock art) and petroglyphs (carved rock art) remains 

unknown.

Some experts believe that the images may relate to historical events, cultural 

heroes, or visions experienced by shamans. Across the valley to the east you 

can see Massacre Rim. On the mountain is one of the Great Basin’s most 

mysterious petroglyphs, a seven-foot-long fish!

Most of the top of Massacre Rim is a BLM Wilderness Study Area (WSA). 

The BLM will manage it for conservation until Congress determines whether 

it qualifies as wilderness. The 101,290-acre area is one of 60 WSA’s in 

Nevada. Keep an eye out- you may see California bighorn sheep on the steep 

escarpment of Massacre Rim! 

13. JOHN C. FREMONT, EXPLORER

(11.1) The Fremont exploration and mapping expedition came through here 

between Christmas and New Years in 1843. Fremont wrote in his journal that 

he had seen few people except for the small band of Paiute men, women 

and children on a well used Native American trail south of Oregon.

He noted that they reacted as if they had never seen white people.

Fremont’s expedition to this area ended in 1846, when he departed for the 

Sonoma region to support the Bear Flag Revolt, an insurrection of American 

settlers challenging Mexican authorities. The revolt was instrumental in 

California becoming a state in 1850.
2

14. WE ARE GRITTY AND BRIGHT

(1.3) The theme of unfulfilled dreams is 

repeated historically throughout the West. Gone 

are more than 40 families who homesteaded 

here in Long and Mosquito valleys, and three 

schools in Vya and Beulah. 

Homesteading on federal land had four major 

peak periods in American history with the last 

occurring from 1901 to 1921. 

The Enlarged Homestead Act of 1909 increased 

the amount of land homesteaders could claim 

from 160 acres to 320 acres. In 1910 more 

land was homesteaded than in any year in 

American history. 

For about a decade there was adequate rain for 

crops in Long Valley and the spirit of the people 

is reflected in the following letter: 

“We are starting out new in Long Valley, but we are brave. 

We are gritty and bright. We also are true to our valley. We 

know you would see a good sight if you rode through the 

sagebrush desert of a short five years ago, and see the 

grain and grasses that are now ready for the mower. The 

gardens, the fruit and chickens, the horses and pigs and 

the cows, the rich loamy soil is now all cleared and ready 

for the plows. Oh, we’re not asleep nor absent but though 

we are slow, we are wise and ask you to sit up and take 

notice, we are not far behind Surprise”

... Newspaper letter, dated July 22, 1914
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15. MIGRATION REST STOP

(4.3) As you drive on the levee over Mosquito 

Lake, you may see water in the spring and early 

summer. 

Intermittent lakes are lifesavers for migrating birds 

because there is plenty of food and predators are 

deterred by the water and mud. Sneaking up on 

sleeping birds at night is nearly impossible. 

Mosquito Lake is particularly popular 

with shore birds that are characterized by 

their long legs, pointed and sometimes 

curved beaks.

If a flock of birds flies by you displaying a 

striking black and white pattern you are 

looking at a flock of willets. 

16. BASIN AND RANGE

(2.4) You are standing on the edge of a rising block fault. The block fault is 

lined by valleys, Surprise Valley along the western edge and Mosquito Valley 

and Long Valley along the eastern edge. 

The cliffs to the east near Massacre Rim clearly mark an uplifting block of 

land. This repetition of black faults (ranges) and valleys (basins) repeats 

from the Warner Mountains all the way to the Rocky Mountains.

You can also see how the environment changes with elevation. There is little 

moisture on the basin floors, so the valleys are covered with drought-tolerant 

plants. As elevation increases on the surrounding uplands, springs fed by the 

melted winter snowpack provide water even in the late summer. Distinctive 

communities of plants and trees grow on these uplands and are not seen 

again for miles. The Great Basin has been described as mountain islands 

surrounded by an ocean of sagebrush. This unique landscape has evolved 

over thousands of years. 

A short (0.1 mile) drive or walk down the dirt road to the southeast provides 

a lovely view of Mosquito Lake and the mountains beyond.
2

17. ASPENS AND FAWNS

(2.8) You know there IS water when you see a grove of aspen trees. Just like 

an oasis, the trees serve as critical habitat for wildlife, providing food and 

shelter from predators and an ideal place for mule deer to give birth to their 

offspring.

In late summer the deer take their young up the mountain to feast on the 

late-growing young leaves. 

18. WILD GARDENS

(4.3) More than 80 edible roots and tubers were used 

by American Indians in the West at the time EuroAmerican settlers arrived.

Like “wild gardens,” these plants were managed by 

American Indians over long periods of time by means of 

burning, selective harvesting, tilling and weeding.

Fields of ya’pa’ (Perideridia species) can be seen on top 

of volcanic plateaus as they are well suited to rocky, thin 

clay soils.

The Northern Paiute gathered large quantities of these 

roots in the spring and summer which were eaten raw, 

boiled, or dried in the sun and stored for the winter.
26

19. STRUTTING AND BOOMING

(4.0) The sagebrush uplands are important breeding and brood rearing 

habitat for the Greater Sage-Grouse.

These chicken-sized birds breed in areas called “leks” with breeding displays 

of strutting males vying for the females’ attention.

The males also produce a booming noise with their vocal sacs which can 

be heard from miles away. If you see strutting birds, it is best to stay several 

hundred yards away so as not to disturb them.In spring, the hens nest i

dense sagebrush to protect their young from predators.

During winter sage grouse live amongst the taller sagebrush where they 

primarily eat sagebrush leaves. 

The BLM is committed to maintaining and improving the diverse vegetation 

that the sage grouse depend upon. 

20. WHERE THE DEER AND THE ANTELOPE PLAY

(1.5) Despite the name, pronghorn antelope are more closely related to 

giraffes than antelope.

They are the fastest native land animal in North America and can run up 

to 65 miles per hour (105 km/h). They evolved to be this fast to outrun the 

American cheetah (now extinct).

The sagebrush-covered plateaus are important 

habitat for pronghorn. Sagebrush and forbs 

such as blue mustard, buckwheat, and yarrow 

are rich in protein. The brush is low enough that 

the antelope can see predators and feel safe 

enough to birth their kids in early May.

Mule deer

Antelope

The white patches on the belly and the neck 

distinguishes the antelope from the mule deer. 
21. LAKE SURPRISE BEACH

(3.0) Imagine the first humans to see Surprise Valley walking over this spot 

and looking at the huge lake in front of them with the high mountains in the 

backdrop.

More than 10,000 years ago Lake Surprise was filled by rainfall and melting 

glaciers from the mountains, making the entire valley in front of you full of 

water. It was a cooler, temperate time and the hillsides were full of grasses, 

wildflowers, and evergreen trees. 

These people lived during the Ice Age when hairy mammoths, camels, 

horses, giant bison, musk ox, and sabre-tooth cats roamed this land. If you 

look closely at the hills you can see the terraces that represent the old 

lake levels.

22. FEE RESERVOIR

(0.1) Two miles to the east is a small 

campground with water, restrooms and a 

boat ramp. Fishing is subject to change 

depending on water and weather conditions.

23. LAKE ANNIE

(4.4) Lake Annie is five miles north from this junction on a passable gravel 

road. The lake was once a bay on Pleistocene Lake Surprise. It is the only 

freshwater part of the ancient lake that survived. Fishing is permitted.
28

24. FORT BIDWELL CEMETERY

(0.4) Camp Bidwell was a hastily erected U. S. Cavalry post built in 1863 

after Surprise Valley settlers petitioned the government for protection from 

the Paiute Indians.

Life at the fort was 

challenging. In the beginning, 

the majority of the enlisted 

men were 23 years old or 

younger. Desertions were 

common; small groups left 

and seldom returned.

A few days after Christmas in 

1877, Sgt. Frank Lewis took 

his life on the steps of the Bidwell store in front of his men. The troops raised 

money to construct a tombstone with an inscription commemorating

Sgt. Lewis.

The monument is in the cavalry section of Fort Bidwell cemetery that you 

can visit. The inscription reads, “This monument was erected by his company 

comrades as a testimonial of their love for one who was a universal favorite 

with all who knew him.” He was thirty years old.

Officers’ Quarters at Fort Bidwell circa 1875.
2

Kober’s Drygoods Store in Fort Bidwell circa 1908 (above) and in 2016 (top left)

25. FORT BIDWELL TOWN

(0.2) Historic buildings such as the Fort Bidwell Hotel, Kober’s Drygoods 

(pictured above) and the community church still look as they did over 100 

years ago.

In the back of Kober’s you can find out who was buried before the turn of the 

20th century by reading the inscriptions on the wall.

The wall served as the town’s original cemetery record and most of the 

names are faintly legible. The Fort Bidwell General Store was one of 

California’s oldest stores in continuous operation.

In order to be fire-proof, it was constructed from stone and when it was built 

in 1874 this was truly an outpost in the Wild West.

The last time the General Store sold gas it cost 89 cents per gallon.
30

26. FANDANGO PASS

(5.2) In 1846, the Applegate brothers led their first wagon train across 

the Applegate Trail and over this pass through the Warner Mountains. The 

Applegate Trail was established as an alternative to the more dangerous 

Oregon Trail which required pioneers to float their wagons down the 

treacherous Columbia River. 

This pass was originally 

referred to as Lassen’s 

Pass by the pioneers and 

renamed Fandango Pass in 

the 1870s. Fandango refers 

to a popular 19th century 

dance. It only takes a few 

minutes to drive to the top 

where you can experience a 

breathtaking view.

History buffs may want to search for wagon ruts where the pioneers hitched 

multiple teams to a wagon to climb the steep hillside.

More than one wagon broke free to go crashing back down the mountain. 

The rock retaining wall on the hillside just before the Forest Service sign was 

built for the military road to Fort Bidwell.

On the west side of Fandango Pass is Goose Lake where in 1848 Peter 

Lassen created his famous “short cut” to the central valley of California 

called the Lassen Trail. 

Applegate Emigrant trail over Fandango Pass in 1941
27. MUD VOLCANO 

(8.8) In 1951, approximately 300,000 tons of mud and water erupted from 

the hot springs midway between the road and the lakebed below you. Mud 

particles were thrown about a mile into the air and pea-sized pellets landed 

as far as four miles away.

The event created 15-foot tall mud cones which have since eroded away and 

are now covered with grass.

You can still see some of the small ponds in the hot water marsh. Like other 

hot water sources in the valley, the water can be boiling or near-boiling and 

extreme care should be taken when exploring hot springs.

28. LAKE CITY

(1.8) Lake City was once the largest town 

in Modoc County. It was first settled in 

1865, and by 1868 the town included 

a gristmill, hotel, saloons, and a post 

office. Idaho traffic greatly influenced the 

early growth of towns in Surprise Valley 

as it was located along the mail route 

between Susanville, California and Boise, 

Idaho. Lake City was also considered the 

halfway point between the Sacramento 

Valley and Owyhee mines in Idaho. The 

1870 Lake City Flour Mill can still be 

seen on South Water Street.

29. CEDARVILLE

(9.6) Cedarville was founded in 1864 

and was originally known as Deep Creek. 

The Center Street Park is an ideal place 

for picnicking and relaxing. You can 

see the Townsend Cabin, the first cabin 

built in Cedarville and which was later 

operated as a trading post by William T. 

Cressler and John H. Bonner. Cressler 

and Bonner built a much larger two-story 

store in 1874 that still dominates the 

west side of Main Street.
32

TOURIST SERVICES INFORMATION

SERVICES

Cedarville

Gasoline, Hardware Store, Grocery Store, Lodging, RV Camping, Restaurants, 

Hospital and Walk-in Clinic

Fort Bidwell

Lodging, Restaurant

RESTROOMS

Cedarville Park, Fee Reservoir Campground

For more information: Contact the BLM office in 

Cedarville, 602 Cressler, just off California Highway 299 

and clearly signed.

Telephone: (530) 279-6101. 

Monday-Friday 7:45 a.m. – 4:30 p.m.
3

CAMPGROUNDS

Fee Reservoir Campground along the Byway. Stough Reservoir (a Forest 

Service campground) on California Highway 299 on Cedar Pass. Camping is 

also permitted on the BLM land along the Byway.

ALONG THE BYWAY

Outside of the towns listed on the opposite page, there are no services of any 

kind. There is typically no cell phone service east of the California-Nevada 

state line.

IMPORTANT SAFETY TIPS FOR 

AN ENJOYABLE TRIP

Before leaving Cedarville, check your gas 

level, air pressure in your spare tire, and tire 

changing equipment.

Do you have at least a gallon of water to drink 

in case you have mechanical problems and have 

to wait for someone to come along? If you have 

mechanical problems, raise the hood and trunk 

cover as a signal for help and wait in your vehicle.

If there has been a snowstorm or a big 

rainstorm, check in Cedarville about road 

conditions before you leave the valley. Unseasonal 

snowstorms may occur in May and October.

The road west out of Mosquito Valley is 

narrow and fairly steep and not recommended 

for long trailers and long motor homes. There are 

two improved creek bed crossings on the Barrel 

Springs road where the presence of rocks may 

be a hazard for vehicles with very low clearance. 

When in doubt, stop, get out and assess the road 

segment in question.
34

Wild Onions (Allium) : Found near 

sagebrush and have an unmistakable 

garlic-like aroma when crushed. The pink to 

purple flowers appear in April as a ball-like 

cluster at the tip of the stem.

Lupines (Lupinus) : These members of the 

pea family grow from 2-2 1/2 feet tall. Blooms 

in May and June with purple and blue the most 

common colors.

Sand Lily (Leucocrinum montanum) :

A short, 6-inch, beautiful and sweetscented herb with white flowers of six 

petals. Blooms in April and May.

Rabbitbrush (Ericameria nauseosa) :

A widespread twiggy shrub with narrow, 

long, silver-haired leaves. Its golden flowers 

are a feature of late summer. The yellow 

flowers of sagebrush also bloom in the fall.

WILDFLOWERS YOU MAY SEE ALONG THE WAY
3

Surprise Valley-Barrel Springs Byway

We need your help to protect our archaeological and 

historic sites.

Taking arrowheads and other historic objects is against 

the law and severely punished. But more importantly, 

the loss or disturbance may destroy the opportunity to 

make a scientific breakthrough in our understanding of 

the past.

If you discover an artifact, leave it in place, note its location, and notify the 

nearest BLM or other Federal office.

We have produced this 

brochure for your enjoyment 

and would like to hear from 

you about your experience on 

the Byway.

Also, if you have any 

suggestions on how to improve 

the Byway or this brochure, let 

us know at the BLM office in 

Cedarville.

Surprise Field Station 

602 Cressler Street

Cedarville, CA 96104

(530) 279-6101
Bureau of Land Management

Surprise Field Station

602 Cressler Street

Cedarville, CA 96104

(530) 279-6101

Bureau of Land Management

Applegate Field Office

708 W 12th Street

Alturas, California 96101

(530) 233-4666

Historical photos courtesy of the California State University, Chico, Meriam 

Library Special Collections; Greater Sage-Grouse photo courtesy of Philip 

Knorr; Surprise Valley-Barrel Springs Byway photo courtesy of Laurie Sada; 

Milky Way photo courtesy of Richie Bednarski; wild horse photo courtesy of 

Rebecca Carter; contemporary photo of Kober’s Store by Claude Singleton; 

fossil leaf photo courtesy of Jennifer Mueller.

www.blm.gov/California

BLM/CA-GI/2017/011+8600+8357+8303/Rev 2020