13

Heading straight across an unknown country with their mules
from Chitsia for the base of the mountain, the party unfortunately
attacked the mountain by Peters Glacier and demonstrated the im-
possibility of that approach, being stopped by the enormous ice-
encrusted cliffs of the north peake Judge Wickersham used to say
that only by a balloon or a flying-machine could the summit be
reached; and, indeed, by no other means can the summit ever be
reached from the north face

After a week spent in climbing, provisions had begun to rum
short; therefore, the party returned by descending on a raft the
rushing, turbid waters of that quite unnavigable and very dan=
gerous stream, the McKinley Fork of the Kantishna. Reaching an
elevation of 10,000 feet, they encountered a tremendous precipice
beyond which they could not go. Finally, with some difficulty,
they reached their base camp near Peters Glacier.

After Wickershan's party had returned to civilization, they
filed mining notices at the Recorder's office at Rampart for gold
placer claims on Moose Creek, and also filed a map as a part of
their description, showing the general location and direction of
descent of the creeks from Chitsia and the Kantishna highlands.
It was immediately copied by numerous prospectors and the next
year a horde of hardy men explored every creek in “ShiS height of
land for gold. Rich gold placer diggings were located in 1905,
which became the center of the rich Kantishna mining district.
This mining district covers part of the area that, is now within
the boundaries of Mount McKinley National Parks ‘Uy

About the time that Judge Wickersham was leaving the north
face of the mountain, an expedition under Dr. Frederick A. Cook
set out from Tyonek, on Cook's Inlet, on the other side of the
ranges Cook was accompanied by Robert Dunn, Ralph Shainwald, and
Fred Printz, who had been chief packer for Brooks and Raeburn.
Fourteen pack-horses bore their supplies.

Cook had the advantage of topographical maps, forty miles
of trail cut in the timber, and a guide familiar with the country
The route followed was that of Brooks and Raeburn. They skirted
the base of the Alaska Range until a southwesterly ridge was
reached, which is not easy to locate, but which, as Brooks judged,
must have been near the headwaters of a tributary of the
Kuskokwim.e Here an attempt was made to ascend the mountain, but
at 8,000 feet a chasm cut them off from further advances

Pursuing their northeast course, they reached Peters Glacier,
which Cook called the Hanna Glacier, and stumbled across one of
Judge Wickersham's camps of a couple of months before. They were
out of salt and found a can that Wickersham had left theree Here
another attempt to ascend was made, but progress was stopped by
the same stupendous cliffs which had turned back the Wickersham
partys



3h

On August 22, 1926, Stephen T. Mather, Director of the
National Park Service, arrived in Mount McKinley National Park.
The following day the start was made from the Savage River
Tourist Camp by saddle horse and pack horse for a trip through
the park.

Mather, Superintendent Karstens, and Chief Ranger Nyberg
left the main party at Toklat River and went down the main
Toklat to the cabin of Mr. Charles Sheldon, who, in 1907 and .
1908, had lived in this section. Here Sheldon had conceived of
the idea of Mount McKinley National Park. After taking some
pictures of Sheldon's cabin and its surroundings, Mather and .
his party continued their way over a lower pass, south of Mount
Sheldon, to Stony Creek, up the right fork of that stream to
the head of Moose Creek, and then on to Copper Mountain (now
Mount Elson). Departing from the park on August 31, Mather,
the first Washington official of the National Park Service to
visit the park, had gained a lasting impression of its wilder-
ness character.

as

In August 1929, Mr. Thomas C. Vint, Chief Architect of the
Service in San Francisco, went through the park in company with
Superintendent Harry J. Liek and J. L. Galen, President of the
Mount McKinley Tourist and Transportation Company. The purpose
of this trip was to choose a probable location for tourist lodge
or hotel in the Copper Mountain area. This was the first time
a plamer from the States had visited this area for the purpose
of studying it.

Director Horace M. Albright arrived in the park on July 25,
1931, on his first visit to Alaska and Mount McKinley National
Park. After inspecting the headquarters and the Savage River
Tourist Camp on the 26th, he was strigken with an attack of
appendicitis and was taken to the hospital in Fairbanks via air-
plane. There an operation was performed on July 29, and on
August 19 he returned to the park after having spent nearly three
weeks in the hospital. Although clearly showing the effects of
his illmess, he was able to get around in good shape, and numer-
ous trips were taken into the park by automobile in company with
Superintendent Liek.

Other important official visitors were Associate Director
Arthur E. Demaray with Mrs. Demaray, June 23-26, 19363; the
Honorable Harold L. Ickes, Secretary of the Interior, August 11-
+ 12, 1938; Mr. Owen A. Tomlinson, Regional Director, Region Four,
National Park Service, August 27-30, 1943; and Mr. Conrad L.
Wirth, Director, National Park Service, June 22-26, 1952.



preservation of game within the boundaries of the park, and
in such other ways as will help to speed the development of
the park so it may become an important and enduring asset to
the territory."

The Superintendent maintained an office at Nenana, Alaska,
until the summer of 1922, when buildings for the Superintendent's
dwelling and office were constructed at McKinley Park Station at
mile 348 on the Alaska Railroad. Lumber and logs were recovered
from deserted construction camps along the railroad. The railroad
was not completed but construction was entering the final stages at
that time.

The total appropriation, which included the salary of the
Superintendent and a ranger, was $8,000. Three horses with har-
nesses, sleigh, wagon, riding and pack saddles, blacksmith and
shoeing outfit, and harness repair outfit had been purchased. For
winter travel two dog teams of five dogs each, with sleighs, har-
ness, dog feed and general equipment were purchased.

First Ranger

On November 1, 1921, Marcus V. Tyler reported for duty as
Ranger, but on account of injuries he resigned from the Service -
December 9, 1921, and on January 21, 1922, Lewis A. Powless re-
ported for duty as Park Ranger. These were the first twq per-
manent Park Rangers appointed.

Boundary Changes

On January 30, 1922, the eastern boundary was extended east-
ward to the 1j9th meridian. This made a total of 2,645 Square
miles within the boundaries of Mount McKinley National Park. A
further addition of 26,693 acres was made on March 19, 1932,
which makes Mount McKinley National Park the second national park
in size. This extension was an important administrative step for
several reasons. On the northwest it brings into the park the
Wonder Lake area, and on the east the park boundaries were extended
to make the west bank of the Nenana River a natural wildlife
boundary line for the park.

McKinley Park Station, located on the Alaska Railroad, is
beautifully situated for a park entrance. At this point a strip
of land one mile wide extending westward approximately three
miles to the park boundary has been set aside by Executive Order
for entrance and administration purposes.



8

Sheldon, Charles
List of Birds Observed'in the Upper Toklat River Near

Mt. McKinley, Alaska,1907-1908
Auk; 2621; Jan. 1909, pp. 66-70

Remarks on Mount Moxinley
Proceedings of the National Parks Conference, Wash. Doo,
Jan. 2~6, 1917, Dept. of the Interior, Natl Park Service,
1917, pp» 193-199

Wilderness of Denali
New York and London; Charles Scribner's Sons; 1930,
432 pages, ills.

Sierra Club Bulletin
How to Reach Momt McKinley National Park, Alaska
Sierra Club Bul.; 1221: 1924, pp. 91-92
Mt. McKinley, 1932, Success and Tragedy
Sierra Club Bul.; 17, Jue, 1932, pp. 145-155

Smith, Philip Ss.
Memorial of Alfred Hulse Brooks
Bul. of the Geological Soc. of Amo; 37, March 1926,
pp>e 15=48

Snow, Co Ko
The Mismaming of Alaska's Mount Ararat
Alaska Yukon Magazine; 10, Aug.71910, pp. 193-195

Spadavecchia, Nicholas Wo
With the Cosmic Ray Expedition to Mt. McKinley
Bul. of the Appalachian Mt. Club, 26:10: June 1933, pp.4352-448

Spaulding, Philip Taft
McKinley - A Study in Survival
Farthest-North Collegian; 27, Aug. 1948, ppo 1, 5, 73
ills.

Stuck, Hudson
A Round of the Creeks
The Spirit of Missions; 72, Jan. 1907, pp. 28-28, ills.
Archdeacon Stuck Writes from Tanana, Alaska, on April 3rd.
The Spirit of Missios; 76, Jue 1911, pp. 488-489
Dr. Stuck Relates Mt. McKinley Climb (Interview)
New York Sun; Sept. 6, 1913, p. 16
The Ascent of Denali
Scribner's Magazine; 5425; Nov. 1913, pp. 531-552, ills.
On Denali
Spirit of Missions; 79, Jan. 1914, pp. 17=25
Johnny and the Sugar
Spirit of Missions; 79, Feb. 1914, pp. 97-103
The Ascent of Denali
Charles Scribner's Sons; 1914, 188 pages, ills., maps



39

Maurice Moreno's Roadhouse, located in the McKinley Park Station area.

First Park Concessioner's Camp in iiount McKinley National Park.
Operated by Dan Kennedy.



7

character of the southern flank.of the range above which it towered
were thus established. 10,

On August 12, 1898, Sgt. William Yanert, 6th Cavalry, Us Se» Aos
was given instructions by Lt. H. G» Learnard, lth Infantry, to
break camp on the Chaniltna River, a tributary of the Susitna, and
proceed to the Tanana., Quoting from his report, Yanert said:

"I was to take all the rations I could carry. My
associates in the expedition were Private Jones,
Company D, 1kth Infantry, and Bate, a Skitig Indian,
who was to act the part of guide. I was to pick out a
trail through the Alaska Range to the Tenana Rivers

"Accompanied by Private Jones, lth Infantry, and
under the guidance of the Indian, Bate, I left
Lieutenant Learnard's camp on the Chaniltna River on
the morning of August 12, and proceeded in a north-
westerly direction, following more or less closely the
left bank of the Chaniltna for a distance of 12 miles.
From this point the route ran north, following the
divide between the first and second forks of that river
and then up the middle fork of the Susitna. The Susitna
was crossed on a raft below the mouth of a stream known
as Indian Creek. The course taken then ran in a westerly
direction to a range of mountains. ‘These were crossed
by way of a pass having an altitude of 3,000 feet, and
beyond this range the course again turned northward and
continued at the foot of the range to the headwaters of
the Susitna River. Here the divide was reached and
crossed, and on September 3, I arrived at a river which
came from the northeast, which stream made a sharp turn,
after which it proceeded in a northerly direction. The
guide said it was a tributary of the Tanana. I took it
for the Cantwell River. /This. probably was the Nenana
River and Sergeant Yanert was undoubtedly the first white
man to set foot on what is now Mount McKinley National
Park.

‘Upon arriving at this river, the guide refused to
continue in service as such, I therefore abandoned fur-
ther progress, I began the return journey September h,
going to the mouth of Indian Creek via the same trail
over which I had come."LL,

Another expedition soon followed. On orders to explore the
possibilities for an all-American overland route from Cook's Inlet-
Pacific Ocean to the Yukon River in 1899, First Lt. Joseph S.

Herron, 8th Cavalry, Sgt. Henry R. Carter, United States Army,
Pvt. Sam L. Jones, Company D, 1th Infantry, Pvt. Gilbert Dillinger,
Company D, Ujth Infantry, and packers E. Me Webster and George Brown,



67
APPENDIX B

ORIGINAL ACT
OF THE CONGRESS OF THE UNITED STATES
ESTABLISHING MOUNT McKINLEY NATIONAL PARK
Signed by President Wilson, February 26, 19L7*

Be it enacted by the Senate and House of Representatives of the
United States of Anerica in Congress assembled, That the tract of
land in the Territory of Alaska particularly described by and in-
cluded within the métés and bounds, to wit: Beginning at a point as
shown on Plate III, reconnaissance map of the Mount McKinley region,
Alaska, prepared in the Geological Survey, edition of nineteen hundred
and eleven, said point being at the summit of a hill between two forks
of the headwaters of the Toklat River, approximate latitude sixty-
three degrees forty-seven minutes, longitude one hundred ard fifty
degrees twenty minutes; thence south six degrees twenty minutes west
nineteen miles; thence south sixty-eight degrees west sixty miles;
thence in a southeasterly direction approximately twenty~eight miles
to the summit of Mount Russell; thence in a northeasterly direction
approximately eighty-nine miles to a point twenty-five miles due south
of a point due east of the point of beginning; thence due north
twenty-five miles to said point; thence due west twenty-eight and one-
half miles to the point of beginning, is hereby reserved and with-
drawn from settlement, occupancy, or disposal under the laws of the
United States, and said tract is dedicated and set apart as a public
park for the benefit and enjoyment of the people, under the name of
the Mount McKinley National Park. (U. S. C., title 16, sec. 3h7.)

Sece 2. That nothing herein contained shall affect any valid
existing claim, location, or entry under the land laws of the United
States, whether for homestead, mineral, right of way, or any other
purpose whatsoever, or shall affect the rights of any such claimant,
locator, or entryman to the full use and enjoyment of his land.

(U. Se Coy title 16, Sec. 348.)

Sec. 3. That whenever consistent with the primary purposes of
the park, the Act of February fifteenth, nineteen hundred and one,
applicable to the location of rights of way in certain national parks
and national forests for irrigation and other purposes, shall be and
remain applicable to the lands included within the park. (U. 8. G.,
title 16, Sec. 349.)

Sec. . Nothing in this Act shall in any way modify or affect
the mineral land laws now applicable to the lands in the said park.
(U. S. Coy title 16, sec. 350.)

Sec. 5. That the said park shall be under the executive con-
trol of the Secretary of the Interior, md it shall be the duty of

%Minor amendments to this Act have occurred at several subsequent
dates. : a



hg

List of persons who have climbed Mount McKinley (cont'd.)s

Robert G. Tatem (3)
Hudson Stuck (4)

Alfred D. Lindley (5)
Harry J. Liek (6)
Erling Strom (7)
Grant H. Pearson (8)

Captain Robert Bates (9)
Einar Nilsson (10)
Terris Moore (11)
Bradford Washburn (12)

Capt. Albert H. Jackman (13)
Iieut. Peter Webb (14)
Sterling B. Hendricks (15)

Barbara Washburn (16)
Bradford Washburn (2nd ascent)
William Deeke (17)

George Browne (18)

dames Gale (19)

Robert Craig (20)

William Sterling

Robert Lange (21)

Lieut. William Hackett (22)

Gordon Herreid (23)
Henry Daub (2h)
Frank Mills (25)

Walter L. Gonnason (26)
John McCall (27)
Charles E. Piper (28)

Bradford Washburn (3rd ascent)
James Gale (2nd ascent)
Capt. Wm. Hackett (2nd ascent)

Henry A. Buchtel, MD. (29)
John V. Ambler, MD. (30)
Barry C. Bishop (31)

Melvin Griffiths (32)
Jerry Moore (33)

South Peak North Peak
20,300 ft 19,600 £%
June 6, 1913
wv ou
May 7, 1932 May 9, 1932
w wt n w
W cu w "

oo "

duly 23, 19h2
” ”

oo "
oo "

July 2h, 19k2
tt t
" ”
June 6, 1947
” "
it wn
" a

a "
it "

June 6, 19h7
a "
July 29, 1947
" "
nw n
July 13, 1948
i

t t

June 7, 19h7
nt a
n a
June 7, 19h7
"
" n

" w
0 "

July 10, 1951 (climbed from west)
i] w a " a

" "

" " Oy

July 13, 1951 (climbed from west)
a n n n t

7 "

" " on

July 14, 1951 (climbed from west)
n ci ” a

"

29/



47

Ranger patrolling. along the Nenana River in 1933

Ranger Grant Pearson on patrol at McLeod Creek in 1927.

Rangers built this type of cabin in the early days of the Park.



53

McKinley Park During Wartime, 1942 to 1946

During the months of April and May, 1942, arrangements were
negotiated to assist the U. S. Army with the Alaska Test Expedition
to Mount McKinley. The expedition, led by Lt. Col. Frank Go
Marchman, QMC, was made during June and July, 1942, to test Army
clothing and equipment in arctic temperatures. Most of the supplies
and equipment were dropped by plane at designated camps. The party
consisted of 17 members, all experts in their particular phase of
the experiments. Four members of the expedition, namely Capt. Robert
H. Bates, Einar Nilsson and Terris Moore, QMC consultants, and
Bradford Washburn, climbed to the summit of Momt McKinley on July 23,
192, and three members; Capt. Albert H. Jackman, Lt. Peter Webb,
Royal Canadian Air Force, and Sterling B. Hendricks, QMC consultant,
on July 2h.

Superintendent Frank Been and Chief Ranger Grant H. Pearson
made the trip to McGonagall Pass to confer with the party and
escorted Capt. Rex Gibson out to the road,as he had becomé ill
while on the mountain. Later, when the experiments were completed,
the Chief Ranger and two rangers took horses to the top of
McGonagall Pass and packed out the supplies left there. This was
the first time that horses had ever been taken to the top'of
McGonagall Pass. 31,

U. Se Army Recreation Camp

On April 10, 1943, the Army took over the McKinley Park Hotel

and used it until March 1945. During this time,.11,32h persons

. visited the park. Each'visitor stayed an average of seven days,
and approximately 90 percent were members of the armed forces and
10 percent civilian defense workers. Civilian tourist travel was
ab a standstill during the war because of restricted travel in
Alaska. All means of travel to Alaska were taxed to capacity in
the transportation of war workers, troop movements, “and the moving
of military supplies.

The following recreation program was carried out by the
U. So Army Recreation Camp: winter sports, including skiing, skate
ing, tobogganing and dog team rides; regularly scheduled motor
trips into the park during the summer; saddle horse trips from
Savage River Camps camping and fishing at Wonder Lakes fishing in
many of the park streams; hiking, picture taking and other outdoor
activities. :

In February and March of 194), over 500 U. S. troops used the
eastern portion of Mount McKinley National Park to~hold winter
maneuvers. Dog teams, skis and snowshoes were used, but no mecha-
nized equipment. Lt. Col, Waltherswas in charge of the maneuvers.



57

temperature was below zero. Tige excited the rest of the deg team
and they were able to pull the sled to firm ice.

Grant H. Pearson, Chief Park Ranger, acting as Superintendent,
was awarded the Medal of Freedom by the War Department for leading
the party of hl soldiers and civilians during October 1-November 18,
19k, to investigate the crash of an Air Transport airplane which
erashed in the unexplored portion of the park with 19 persons on
board.

Upon his retirement after approximately twenty-three years of
Goverment service, of which twenty-one years were served with the
National Park Service, John C. Rumohr was awarded a Citation for
Commendable Service. This was presented to Rumohr on March ), 1952.

Births

On March 23, 1926, a son was born to Park Clerk and Mrs. Ralph
P. Mackie. Mrs. Mackie had gone to the hospital in Fairbanks,
Alaska, for the event. This was the first child born to an employee
of Mount McKinley National Park.

Prospecting and Mining

A discovery of base ore which contained lead, silver, zinc,
copper and gold was made on July 12, 1921, on Copper Mountain (now
Mount Eielson), by prospector 0. M. Grant. This caused a stampede,
+0 this area of about 0 prospectors. Although never developed, ¥
Grant is still holding his claims.

Gold and copper ore were discovered in 1921 on Slippery Creek,
near the north face of Mount McKinley, by prospector William Shannon.
Many thousands of dollars have been spent prospecting this discovery,
but it was found to be too low in value to allow mining.

A discovery of antimony ore has been made in the East Fork
canyon, but no developnent work has. been done on it.

Aviation

The first-airplane to land in the park was piloted by Mr. Ben
Eielson, who landed on a gravel bar one-half mile from Muldrow
Glacier near the north point of Copper Mountain (now Mount Hielson)
on June 17, 192k, at 11:15 p. m. Pilot Eielson was flying a
World War I type Jenny (JN-Dl.) powered by an OX5 motor. This was
a@ commercial flight and Eielson had as passenger a prospector
naméd Jack Tobin. The flight was made from Fairbanks, Alaska.

The next flight was made to the same location by Joseph Crosson
in a Waco biplane powered by an OX5 motor, in August, 1926, when he
took Mr. and Mrs. Thomas Aiken from Mount Bielson to Fairbanks.



hg

Mount Mather, Elevation 12,100. The first ascent of Mount
Mather was made by the above-mentioned party on July 20, 1952.

These revised elevations were sent to the author by Bradford
Washburn and are expected to become official in the near futures

Lindley-Liek McKinley Expedition

In 1932, a party composed of Alfred D. Lindley, an attorney
of Minneapolis, Minnesota, Harry J. liek, Park Superintendent,
Erling Strom, a Norwegian, for many years associated with the
skiing activities at Lake Placid, New York, and Grant H. Pearson,
Park Ranger, climbed both peaks :of.Mount McKinley, the first
party to accomplish this feat.

At Browme's Tower at 15,000 feet the party found the ther-
mometer left by the Stuck~Karstens expedition of 19 years before.
After being photographed, the thermometer was removed from its
case and examined. The minimum reading on the instrument was
95 degrees below zero, and the indicator was as far down in the
bulb as it could go. So the actual temperature was below that
point; and the position of the indicator appeared to point to a
temperature of at least 100 degrees below zero. This is the
coldest temperature ever recorded on the North American continent.
The thermometer was later taken to Washington, D. C., and official-
ly tested and declared to be in perfect working order.

Supplies were freighted by dog team a distance of approximately
105 miles to the 11,000-foot elevation on Muldrow Glacier. The
climbing party travelled this distance on skis, except Pearson,
who drove one of the dog teams to base camp which was located in
the last willows on Cache Creek. At this point he joined the
climbers and turned his dog team over to Warren G. Pearson. Two
other dog teams were used and were driven by Chief Ranger Louis
Corbley and Ranger John C. Rumohr. Rumohr and Warren Pearson
freighted with their dog teams to 11,000 feet elevation. At
9,500 feet elevation Corbley returned to park headquarters to
obtain dog fish as the supply of dog food was getting low.

In addition to their ow supplies, this party hauled 800
pounds of supplies for the Carpe Expedition, which was going to
make cosmic ray measurements at the 11,000-foot elevation. On
arriving at the Carpe Camp, Grant Pearson knew that something
Serious must have happened as there was fresh snow about the
tents and nobody was in them. Indications were that this party
had left camp with most of their belongings in it. A further
search revealed the diaries of Allen Carpe and Theodore Koven,
and the last entry was on May 8.



1g

On this trip Sheldon spent 5 days during July to September,
1906, in the area which now lies within the boundaries of Mount
McKinley National Park. The first man to make a study of wildlife
in this area, he Located mountain sheep, grizzly bear, moose,
caribou, and many species of smaller wildlife, and made records of
birds found in the areas Sheldon first spent some time. near
Peters Glacier to the north of Mount McKinley and found one of
Dr. Brooks' old camps. He also reported finding several fair sized
ran skulls. He later learned that during the previous winter of
1905, three prospectors from the Kantishna mining district had
spent a short time there. That season's experience among the white
sheep convinced him that he really knew very little about their
habits. He realized that their life history could not be learned
without a much longer stay amongthem, and determined to return and
devote a year to their study. With this in view, he planned to re-
visit the region, build a substantial cabin just below his old camp
on the Toklat, and remain there through the winter, summer, and
early fall.

He did return to the Alaska Range, where he remained from
August 1, 1907, to June 15, 1908. His assistant was Harry Karstens,
"The Seventy Mile Kid't, who had been with him the previous summers
They built a log cabin on Toklat River at a location which is now
almost the exact center of Mount McKinley National Parke

On September 18, 1907, he found an old camp which had been occu-
pied by Dr. Alfred Brooks! geological survey party in 1902. The date
of August 10, 1902, and the names of the members of the party were
clearly marked with lead pencil on a spruce tree where a space had
been cleared of bark. This creek is about five miles below the
present park road and is now named Sheldon Creeke

While camped near Peters Glacier near the north face of

Mount McKinley on January 12, 1908, Sheldon wrote in his diary:

‘When Denali National Park shall be made easy of access with accomo-
dations and facilities for travel, including a comfortable lodge at
the foot of the moraine of Peters Glacier, as it surely will be,

it is not difficult to anticipate the enjoyment and inspiration
visitors will receive." Even at that time Charles Sheldon had con-
ceived the idea of this wilderness area being made a National Park. 16/



Mount McKinley Tourist and Transportation Company automobiles
transporting tourists to the head of Savage River in 1926.

Tourist party crossing Muldrow Glacier moraine near Copper Mountain. 1927.

35



66
45.

46.

6a.

47.

48.

ho.

50.

51.

52.

Wickersham, Washington, D. C., to Sheldon, Vermont, July 26,
1916.

Reference to Lane's delay in withdrawing amendment.

Congressional Record, September 8, 1916, pp. 16, 548-549 and
p. 16,551. Discussion of bill amendments and final passage.

Copy of S. 5716, 6th Congress, 2d Session, bill to establish -
Mount McKinley National Park.

Program of National Park Conference, January 26, 1917.

Sheldon spoke in the afternoon, and in the evening Stephen R.
Capps delivered an illustrated lecture.

Mather to Sheldon, Washington, D. C., January 11, 1917.

Congratulations on his speeches and on his coming to
Washington.

Sheets from National Geographic Magazine, January, 1917,
illustrated article on proposed McKinley National Park by
Stephen R. Capps, of the United States Geological Survey.

H. R. Report 1273, 6th Congress, 2d Session, January 10, 1917,
by Mr. McClintic, on Senate Bill 5716.

Page 413 of Congressional Record, February 20, 1917, concur-
rence of Senate with House amendments.

Act to establish Mount McKinley National Park, S. 5716, approved
February 26, 1917.



di

Botany. se eee ee ee et et ee ew eee ee ee ee ML

Physical Improvenents 2... ce eee eee eee ee ee be

Mountain Climbs . 0. Sue eo ee eee ee eee ee ee ew we o Lh

Mount Foraker se eee ee ee eee ee ee ee eee ee ee Uh

Other First Ascents of Mountains in the Park... eee ese 6 Uh

Mystery Mountain, Elevation 11,820... 6.22 see eee oe hh *
Mount Silverthrone, Elevation 13,220. 2+ +e eeee eee eo Uh
Peters Dome, Elevation 10,560 . 2 ee ee cere eee eco o th
Mount Brooks, Elevation 11,930 .o+-eeeeceecereccee ss bh
Mount Mather, Elevation 12,100 «s+ e+e eeeee eee e o
Lindley-Liek McKinley Expedition «2+ s.eeeeeeeee ee bD
The Cosmic Ray Party... ee ee ete ee ee ee ee ee ee HT
List of Persons Who Have Climbed Mount McKinley ... +++ « 48
Army O-\7 Crash Expedition » 6s 2 ee ee eee eee ee eo BO
McKinley Park During Wartime, 192 to 1946. 2 6 ee 2 ee eo © 5B
U. Sy Army Recreation Camp » ose eee eee ee ee ee er oe 53
Interpretive Services «see ee eee eee et ee ee we wo
First Ranger Naturalist 2... ee eee ee ee we ee ew we Th
First Park Naturalist «26 ee ee ee ee ee eee ee
Miscellaneous «+e ee tee et ee ee ee ee tw we ee OF
Forest Fires. 1 se ee eee eee te te ee ee we ee 8 OD
Building Pires so. ee eee ee ete we ee wee ee BD
Accidents . 6 soe ese cece cree ee eee ence ee DD
Deaths ss ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee 8 OD

Marriages «2s oe ee te ew ee wer eee ee re ee oe 2 OD

Religious Services... 2. ec e ec eee er err ces se DD



69

LIST OF PUBLICATIONS RELATING TO
MOUNT McKINLEY AND MOUNT McKINLEY NATIONAL PARK

Abercrombie, W. R.
Copper River exploring expedition, Alaska
War Dept., Washington D. G., 1900; pp. 9-169, illss,.
maps

Aleska Magazine
The Mountaineer's Paradise; A table of the larger peaks of
Ala ska :
Alaska Magazine; 1l:l: pp. 19-20; January, 1927

Albright, Horace M.
Mout McKinley, Park of the Far North
Home Geographic Monthly; No. 23 pp. 43-483 October, 1982
Mount McKinley National Park, in Dept. of Interior Report
National Park Service; Vol. 1: pp. 864-865; 1918

Alpright, Horace M. and Taylor, Frank J.
Mount McKinley National Park, in their "Oh Ranger"
Stanford Univ. Press, 1928; pp. 34, 47, 122, 139, 153

Allen, Lt. Henry T.
Report of an Expedition to the Copper, Tanana, and Koyukuk
Rivers, in the Territory of Alaska, in the Year 1885, for
the Purpose of Obtaining All Information Which Will be
Valuable and Important, Especially to the Military Branch
of the Government.
Senate Exec. Doc. 125, Washington D. 6.3; 1887, 172 ppe,
twenty-two engravings, 6 sketches, 4 maps.
Military Reconnaissance in Alaska
Compilation of Narratives of Explorations in Alaska
Senate Report 1023, Washington D.C.; 1900 pp. 409-494

Alpine Journal, London
Note on Mount McKinley (over 20,000*), (reprint from Science
N.S. 17: 4183; po 40, January 2, 1903)
Alpine Journal; 21: 159; pp. 342-544, February 1903
Mout McKinley (20,300°)
Alpine Journal; 21, pp. 238-240, August 1904
Mount McKinley (Alaska),
Alpine Journal; 25, pp. 674, August, 1911
An Ascent of Mt. McKinley
Alpine Journal; 27, pp» 425-427, November, 1913
Editor's Note (Army test Expedition)
Alpine Journal; 53, p. 388, November, 1942
Mt. McKinley Expedition
. Alpine Journal; 54, p» 80, May 1943



68

the said executive authority, as soon as practicable, to make and

publish said rules and regulations not inconsistent with the laws

of the United States as the said authority may deem necessary or

proper for the care, protection, management, and improvement of the

same, the said regulations being primarily aimed at the freest use

of the said park for recreation purposes by the public and for the

preservation of animals, birds, and fish and for the preservation

of the natural curiosities and scenic beauties thereof. (U. S. C.,

title 16, sec. 351.) -

Sec. 6. That the said park shall be, and is hereby, estab-
lished as a game refuge, and no person shall kill any game in said
park except under an order from the Secretary of the Interior for
the protection of persons or to protect or prevent the extermina-
tion of other animals or birds; PROVIDED, That prospectors and
miners engaged in prospecting or mining in said park may take and
kill therein so much game or birds as may be needed for their
actual necessities. when short of food; but in no case shall animals
or birds be killed in said park for sale or removal therefrom, or
wantonly. (U.S. C., title 16, sec. 352.)

Sece 7. That the said Secretary of the Interior may, in his
discretion, execute leases to parcels of land not exceeding twenty
aeres in extent for periods not to exceed twenty years whenever
such ground is necessary for the erection of establishments for the
accomodation of visitors; may grant such other necessary privileges
and concessions as he deems wise for the accomodation of visitors;
and may likewise arrange for the removal of such mature or dead or
down timber as he may deem necessary and advisable for the protec-
tion and improvement of the parks PROVIDED, That no appropriation
for the maintenance of said park in excess of $10,000 annually shall
be made unless the same shall have first been expressly authorized
by law. (U. S. Ce, title 16, sec. 353.)

Sec. 8 That any person found guilty of violating any of the
provisions of this Act shall be deemed guilty of a misdemeanor, and
shall be subjected to a fine of not more than $500 or imprisonment
not exceeding six months, or both, and be adjudged to pay all costs
of the proceedings. (U. S. C., title 16, sec. 35h.)



Bates, Robert He
Mt. McKinley in Wartime
Harvard Mountaineering; 6, pp. 33-35, April 1943
Mt. McKinley, 1942
The American Alpine Journal; 5, pp. 1-13, 1943, 15 ills.

Beach, William N.
In the Shadow of Mt. McKinley
New York; Derrydale Press; 1931, 289 pages, ills., maps

Beauclerk, Osborne
The Ascent of Mt. McKinley (Letter from Osborne Beauclerk)
Geographical Journal; 40, pp. 657-657, December 1912

Beckwith, Edward P.
The Mount McKinley Cosmic Ray Bxpedition, 1932
American Alpine Journal; 2;ls pp. 45-68, ills.
Carpe, Koven Die in Feat of Daring
New York Times, May 8, 1932

Boone and Crockett Club, The
Hunting and Conservation
New Haven, Yale University Press, 1925, pp. 438-445
\
Bright, Norman
Billy Taylor, Sourdough
The Magazine Alaska; 4:3;-pp. 26-31, Sept. 1941

High Altitude Ramblings
Sierra Club Bul; 30, Deo. 1945, pp. 95-97

Brooks, Alfred H.
Notes of exploration by the U.S. Geo. Survey, Mt. McKinley,
Alaska
Bul. of the Ams Geo. Soc., 34, p. 454, Feb. 1902
An Exploration to Mount McKinley, America's Highest Mountain
Journal of Geography; 2:93 pp. 441-469, ills., map,
Nov. 1903
The Alaska Range, a New Field for the Mountaineer
Bul. of the Am. Geo. Soc.; 37: 83 pp. 468-479, illse,
MAP» 1905
The Mout McKinley Region, Alaska
Washington D.C., U.S. Geo. Survey, Prof. Paper 70, 1911,
ill.
Mountain Exploration in Alaska
Alpina Americana; 3, 1914, pp. 17-21, 22; ills., maps
Sketch of geology of Mount McKinley region
"Top of the Continent," New York, Doubleday, ills.,
pp. 237-259

Brooks, Alfred H., and Raeburn, Do Lo
Plans for Climbing Mount McKinley
National Geo. Mage; January 1903, pp. 30-35



28
Early Administration

No funds were provided for the administration and protection
of this area until April 12, 1921, when Henry (Harry) P. Karstens
was appointed Chief Ranger in the National Park Service at large
with headquarters in Alaska. This was the same Harry P. Karstens
who had been guide for Charles Sheldon and who had climbed Mount
McKinley in 1913. On July 1, 1921, he was given a permanent
appointment as Park Superintendent with his headquarters at Nenana.
This was 60 nite from the vark. The railroad was not completed
at that time.

The first publicity to appear in the local newspapers relating
to the administration of Mount McKinley National Park is the follow-
ing, which appeared in the Nenana Daily News, June 9, 1921:

"Of great importance to Interior Alaska is the arrival
of Harry P. Karstens, newly appointed Superintendent of
Mt. McKinley National Park, who has come to assume his offi-
cial duties; and Woodbury Abbey, who was sent from Washington
to direct the activities of a survey party which will make
the boundaries of the park. Their coming marks the beginning
of a new epoch in the history of Interior Alaska, for they
are here to blaze the trails for the thousands of tourists
who even now are awaiting an invitation to visit America's
largest National Park and one of the world's scenic wonders.

"The arrival of these representatives of the Federal
Government means that it is the intention of the administra-
tion and Gongress to put Alaska's park on the map by prepar-
ing it for the reception of visitors.

"Not much can be done this year in the way of opening
the park to tourists, and none will be encouraged to come
with the expectation of finding travelling conditions on a
par with those obtained in other of the National Parks.
But following closely on the heels of the boundary survey
will come the building of a highway to connect the government
railroad, and the building of hotels for the accomodation of
visitors, who must be provided with some of the conveniences
of travel if the park is to enjoy a full measure of popularity.

"These things will come as a matter of course. Of more
importance to Alaskans at this time is the fact that a start
has been made ~- that the existence of the park has been offi-
cially recognized by the appointment of a Superintendent and
the authorization of a boundary survey.

"In the meantime, Alaskans can help the work by co-
operating in every way possible with the park management -
by observance of the park regulations, assistance in the



14

Cook noted a promising route over the glacier between the east-
ern and western peaks. These are the north and south peaks as we
speak of them. This route is, indeed, part of the only route from
the east or north, but it can be reached only by the Muldrow Glacier.
Cook further noted that the walls of the main mountain seemed to
rise out of the Hanna (Peters)' Glacier. The main mountain does have
many walls; however, the walls'‘by which the summit alone may be
reached rise out of the Muldrow Glacier, a circumstance which was
not to be discovered for some yearse

The lateness of the season now compelled Cook's immediate re-
turn. Passing still along the face of the range in the same direc-
tion, the party crossed the terminal moraine of the Muldrow Glacier
without recognizing that it affords the only highway to the heart
of the great mountain. They then recrossed the range by an ice-
covered pass to the waters of the Chulitna River, down which they
rafted after abandoning their horses. Cook called this pass
"Harper Pass." .

The chief result of this expedition, besides the exploration
of about one hundred miles of unknown country, was the publication
by Robert Dunn of an extraordinary narrative in several consecu-
tive numbers of Outing, afterward republished in book form with
some modifications, as "The Shameless Diary of an Explorer", a
vivid but unpleasant production for which every squabble and
jealousy of the party furnishes literary power.

Three years later Cook organized an expedition for a second
attempt upon the mountain. In May, 1906, accompanied by
Professor Herschel Parker, Mr. Belmore Browne, a topographer
named Porter, who made some valuable maps, and packers, the party
landed at the head of Cook's Inlet and penetrated by motor boat
and by pack train into the Susitna country, south of the range.
Failing to cross the range at the head of the Yentna, they spent
some time in exploration along the Kahiltna River. After finding
‘no avenue of approach to the heights of the mountain, the party
returned to Cook's Inlet and broke upe

With only ene companion, a packer named Edward Barrile, Cook
returned in the launch up the Chulitna River to the Tokositna late
in August, after changing their minds as to the impossibility of
climbing the mountain. Ascending a glacier which the Tokositna
River drains, named by Cook the Ruth Glacier, they reached the
amphitheater at the glacier head. From this point, "up and up to
the heaven-scraped granite to the top", Dr. Cook grows grandilo-
quent and vague, for at this point his true narrative ends. The
claims that Br. Cook made upon his return are well known — that
he and his companion, Edward Barrile, reached the summit of
Mount McKinley. Edward Barrile later Thay ot an affidavit that
they had never reached the summit. Ly



20

Parker-Browne McKinley Expedition of 1910

In the summer of the same year as the pioneer ascent, Hershell
Parker and Belmore Browne, members of the second Cook party, con-
vinced by this time that Cook's claim was wholly unfounded, attempted
to climb the mountain again; and another party, organized by C. EB.
Rust, of Portland, Oregon, also endeavored the ascent. Both of
these expeditions confined themselves to the hopeless southern side
of the range, from which, in all probability, the mountain never can
be climbed. Belmore Browne made a duplicate of the picture Dr. Cook
had in his book, "To the Top of the Continent", which was titled
"The Top of our Continent. The Sumit of Mt. McKinley, the Highest .
Mountain of North America. Altitude 20,300." Actually, this peak is
over twenty miles air yne from Mount McKinley, and only 250 feet
above Ruth Glacier.

The Cairns Expedition of 1912

The next expedition to attenpt to climb Mount McKinley was
organized by Ralph H. Cairns and had the backing of the Fairbanks
Daily Times newspaper of Fairbanks, Alaska.

As companions he had Martin Nash and George S. Lewis. This
attempt took place during March and April 1912. The party travelled
across country from Fairbanks via dog team and made their base camp
near the Peters Glacier, in the same vicinity of the former base
eamps of James Wickersham and later, of Dr. Frederick Cook in 1903.

Sone reconnoitering was done, but. delays caused by severe
storms and numerous difficulties in selecting their route forced
them to give up the attempt from that side and return to Fairbanks.

Parker-Browne McKinley Expedition of 1912

The next expedition to attempt to climb Mount McKinley was
another party organized by Browne and Parker, which included Merle
LaVoy and Arthur M. Aten as members. This expedition, Browne's
third attempt to climb Mount McKinley, left Seward, on Resurrection
Bay, late if’ January 1912. After nearly three months! travel, they
reached the northern face of the mountain on March 25. Extreme dif-
ficulties had been experienced in crossing the range, where 17 days >
had been spent above all vegetation. Continuing on to the Kantishna
diggings, they procured supplies and topographical information. from
the miners, and thus were able to follow the course of the Lloyd ,
party of 1910 after reaching the Muldrow Glacier by the gap in the
glacier wall discovered by McGonagall. A reconnaissance of the
Muldrow Glacier to its head and a long spell of bad weather delayed
the party so much, however, that it was the fourth of June before
the actual ascent began.

On June 29, Browne, Parker, and LaVoy then pushed up the
northeast ridge (now named Karstens Ridge) and the upper glacier



16

Following the discovery of placer gold in the Kantishna dis-
trict along Moose Creek and other tributaries in 1905, several
thousand prospectors and miners came to this area. Many of these
went to the mountain sheep hills, now in Mount McKinley National
Park, to hunt for mountain sheep. Market hunters and trappers also
visited this area. Because of the lack of fresh meat, numerous
mountain sheep were hauled to Fairbanks with dog teams and sold on
the market. 15/

. The year of 1906 saw an event which was to play an important
part in the establishment of Mount McKinley National Park. This
was the visit to the wilderness in the vicinity of Mount McKinley *
by Charles Sheldon.

Among the hunter-naturalists of America at that time, Charles
Sheldon occupied a unique position. He was our most famous big
game hunter. Choosing his hunting grounds in the most remote and
inaccessible parts of the continent, possessed of physical strength
and endurance beyond belief, of wunbounded enthusiasm, of powers of
observation second to none, and endowed with a conscience intolerant
of exaggeration, the accounts of his hunts abound in vivid descrip-
tions of localities not previously explored. His circumstantial
studies of the habits of animals rank among some of the most valuable
of the contributions made to the life histories of many species —
particularly the mountain sheep, caribou, moose, grizzly bear and
wolverine.

Wishing to study the white or Dall sheep of Alaska, Sheldon
determined to visit the northern slopes of the Alaska Range in 1906.
On July 1) he left Fairbanks on the river boat "Dusty Diamond" with
Jack Haydon, packer, and Harry Karstens, assistant, and five pack
horses. Of Karstens, he wrote:

“As I look back upon my experiences in Alaska and the
Yukon Territory, I recall no better fortune than that which
befell me when ‘Harry! Karstens was engaged as an assistant
packer. Before he was twenty years of age he had left his
home in Illinois bound for Alaska, and had reached Dawson
during the early days of the Klondike gold rush. Later,
after attempting mining on Seventy Mile Creek in Alaska, he
had become a member of the small party of men who had laid
out the town site of Eagle. After the discovery of gold
near Fairbanks he became a mail carrier, driving dogs be-
tween Fairbanks and Valdez and other points; and the winter
before my arrival he carried mail by dog tean between
Fairbanks and the Kantishna mining district. He is a tall,
stalwart man, well poised, frank, and strictly honorable.
One of the best dog drivers in the North, and peculiarly
fitted by youth and experience for explorations in little-
known regions, he proved a most efficient and congenial
companion." £54,



Superintendent Karstens on the right and two Government photographers.



sae

way zigzagged across smooth, bare rocks and talus slopes
of broken fragments. My objective point was a shoulder

of the mountain about 10,000 feet high, but at three in
the afternoon I found my route blocked by a smooth expanse
of ice.., With the aid of my geologic pick, I managed to

eut steps in the slippery surface, and thus climbed 100 feet
higher; then the angle of slope became steeper, and as the
ridge on which the glacier lay fell off at the sides in
sheer cliffs, a slip would have been fatal. Convinced at
length it would be utterly foolhardy, alone as I was, to
attempt to reach the shoulder for which I was headed, at
7,500 feet I turned and cautiously retraced my steps, find-
ing the descent to bare ground more perilous than the
ascent.

"I had now conswmed all the time that could be spared to
explore this mountain, which had been reached at the expense
of so much preparation and hard toil, but at least I must
leave a record to mark our highest point. On a prominent
cliff near the face of the glacier which had turned me back
I built a caim, in. which I buried a cartridge shell fron
my pistol, containing a brief account of the journey, to-
gether with a roster of the party.

"By this time I was forcibly reminded of the fact that I
had forgotten to eat my lunch. As I sat resting from my
labors, I surveyed a striking scene. Around me were bare
rock, ice, and snow; not a sign of life, the silence broken
now and then by the roar of an avalanche loosened by the mid-
day sun, tumbling like a waterfall over some cliff to find
a resting place thousands of feet below. I gazed along the
precipitous slopes of the momtbain and tried to realize
again its great altitude, with a thrill of satisfaction at
being the first man to ‘approach the summit, which was only
nine miles from where I smoked my pipe. Wo white man had
ever before reached its base and I was far beyond where
moccasined foot of the roving Indian had ever trod. The
Alaskan native seldom goes beyond the limit of smooth walking
and has a superstitious horror of even approaching glacial ice.

"Returning to camp, I found Raeburn had worked all day
over his plane-table board sketching the topography of the
mountain, which was plainly visible from his station. His
map undoubtedly will serve as a guide to him who first reaches
the summit. Prindle had spent the day making an' excursion
into the mountains to the south of my route and had come back
burdendd with geological and potanical specimens 3 Van and
Fred had been shoeing some of the horses, while George had
cooked a meal worthy of the occasion.

"Our immediate goal was the Tamana River, hoping to
reach this by the valley of one of its tributaries, the



83

Parker, Herschel ¢. and Browne, Belmore
Expedition-to Mount McKinley
Cenadian Alpine Journal ; 3, 1911, pp. 57-72, ills., map

Pearson, Grant Ho
Diary Tells Story of Climb of McKinley
Fairbanks, Alaska, Daily News Miner, Jue 30, 1932
Climbing Down the Mountain, as told to Katherin Anne Teylor
’ Who, Vol. I, No. 63 Oct. 1941
Famy Quigley, Frontierswoman
Alaska Sportsmans Vol. 13, No. 8, August 1947,
+ pp. 6, 7, 31, 32
Little Johnnie ‘of Kentishna
Alaska Sportsman; Vol. 14, No. 7, July 1948, pp. 6-9
Mountains Hate People, as told to Philip Newill
Saturday Evening Post, Vol. 221, No. 37, Mar. 12, 1949,
pp. 30-31
Joe Quigley, Sourdough
Alaska Sportsman, Vol. 16, Noo 3, Mar. 1950, pe 14
Home of the Sun
Christian Science Monitor, Mag. Section, Boston,
Jan. 21, 1950
Grent‘'s McKinley
Forty Ninth Star, Anchorage, Alaska, Feb. 12, 1950
The Call of the Wild
Christian Science Monitor, Boston, Jue 13, 1950, p. 5
The Seventy Mile Kid (Harry Karstens) ©
Alaska Sportsman; Vol. 16, No. 6, Jume 1950, pp. 14-17
and 44-49
I'll Take Dogs for Tough Going, as told to Philip Newill
Saturday Evening Post, Dec. 28, 1950

Pearson, Shirley
My Back Yard
Christian Science Monitor, Boston, April 19, 1952
My 3,030 Square Miles of Back Yard
Christian Science Monitor, Boston, duly 25, 1952

Reed, John C.
The Mount Bielson District, Alaska, 1933
Geological Survey Bul., 849-D, pp. 231-237

Robbins, Leonard Ho
Mountains end Men
. New York; Dodd, Mead & Co., 1931; Mount McKinley,
ppe 72-115

Rolfe, Mary A.
Our National Park
Chicago, New York, Boston; Benj. He Sanborn & Coo, 1928,
Book 2



70

American Alpine Journal, The, New York
John Henry Cuntz (1910 Parker-Browne Expedition)
American Alpine Journal; 1, p. 86, 1929
Frederick Albert Cook, biographical sketch
American Alpine Journals 6, pp. 86-88, 1946
Herschel Clifford Parker, biographical sketch
American Alpine Journal; 6, pp» 109-111, 1946
Claude Ewing Rusk, biographical sketch
American Alpine Journal; 6, pp- 117-119, 1946
Editor's Note (Climbing time on Mt. McKinley)
American Alpine Journal; 7, p. 224, 1949
Ascent of McKinley, 1948
American Alpine Journal; 7, pe 353, Sept. 1949
Report (Equipment recommended for climbing McKinley)
American Alpine Journal; 7, pp. 320-321, Sept. 1949

American Geographical Society, Bulletin

Note of the determination and geographical position

of McKinley
Bule of Am. Geo. Soc.s 42243 ppe 260-261, 1910

Note on Professor Parker's next attempt on Mt. McKinley
Bul. of Am. Geo. Soces 44213 pe 45, 1912

Hote, Failed to scale Mount McKinley
Bule of Ame Geo. Soce; 44293 pe 686, 1912

American Scenic and Historical Preservation Society
General information and description of Mout McKinley
National Park

Annual Report, 1917, pe 371
General description, Mount McKinley National Park
Annual Report, 1925, ppe 130-131

Andrews, Ce Le
The Story of Alaska
Caldwell, Idaho: Caxton, 1940, 298 pages, ills., maps

Appalachia
Another Attempt on Mount McKinley
Appalachia; 11, p. 147, May 1906
Editor's Note (Lindley-Liek Expedition)
Appalachia; 19, p- 296, December 1932

Anderson, Je Pe
Flora of Alaska and Adjacent Parks of Canada,8 vols., incomplete
Iowa State Journal of Sciences; Vol. 18 No's 1 and 4, Vol. 19 -
Noe 2, Vole 20 Noe 2 and 3, Vole 21 Noe 4, Vol. 23 Noe 2,
Vol. 24 Noe 2.

Balch, Edwin Swift
Mount McKinley and Momtain Climbers' Proofs
Philadelphia; Campion and Co., 1914, 142 pages



55

Miscellaneous

Forest Fires

The only serious forest fire in Mount McKinley National Park
occurred in 192), when over 1,000 acres of spruce forest were
destroyed in the McKinley Park station area,

Building Fires

A summary of structures destroyed by fire at Park Headquarters
include: June, 1934, a ranger quarters burned to the ground; May
1937, the garage and repair shop; October,1939, the superintendent's
residence, and November, 1950, a residence,

Accidents

On November 7, 1952, a United States Air Force C-119 airplane
erashed into Mount Silverthrone (13,220 elevation) at approxi-
mately 12,000 elevation, It carried 19 members of the armed forces,
All aboard were undoubtedly killed instantly.

The location of the crash is approximately 12 miles from the
site of the C~l7? crash of 194h,in which 19 persons were killed,

Deaths

The first person known to have lost his life in the interior
of Mount McKinley National Park was Tom Kenny. He and his partner,
Tom Black, were in the park looking for a lost gold placer mine.
After becoming separated from his partner, it was approximately
four weeks before rangers found his body about 90 miles from
headquarters, near the mouth of Clearwater Creek, He was buried
near where he was found,

Marriages

The first wedding known to have taken place in the park was
omi February 22, 1945, when Miss Gladys Marquardt, hostess at the
U. S. Army Recreation Camp, was married to Cpl. Harry Stiver,

The wedding ceremony was held in the lounge of the McKinley Park
Hotel, and the services were conducted by U.S. Army Chaplain
Howard J, Wiant,

Religious Services
The first religious services held in Mount McKinley National

Park were the Easter services in April 1943. They were conducted
by U. S. Army Chaplain J, D. Foster at the McKinley Park Hotel,



handsome Yako. While they were trying to club Tsukala's
mother, Yako put the child into the canoe, then with a sweep
of his magic paddle he caused a huge wave to overwhelm them,
though it cast Tsukala's mother upon the beach safely.

Totson, the magician, caused a storm to arise which
would destroy Yako in his light canoe and gave chase in his
war canoes With his magic he caused the waves to grow higher
and higher. All this time he shot arrows and spears at Yako
until they were gone, hoping that one of them would hit Yako
in the back and kill hin.

The waves became so rough Yako took his war=-quelling
stone that was fastened in the braid of his long black hair
and threw it far ahead over the water toward his home in
Tenalend. This caused the waters to be stilled in the path
of his canoe, though mountainous green waves rolled threaten-
ingly on each side behind him where Totson labored in his
pursuing canoes

Totson now resorted to his never failing great war
spear and threw the spear straight toward the back of the
fleeing Yako.

Yako saw the spear coming and, putting all his magic
force to his aid, he changed the oncoming rear wave into
amountain of stone upon whose crest the war spear struck
with a crash of breaking rock, and from whose stony summit
the weapon glanced upward high over Yako's canoe.

As the great spear flew skyward, it touched the great-
est wave coming from the opposite direction, which Yako's
magic instantly turned into a greater mountain of stone.
From the summit of this mighty mountain the spear flew into
the. southern sky, where Koonah, the blind shaman, the
descendent. of Yako who possessed power and magic, can see
it through his darkened orbs, though no man with mortal
eyes can do so.

Disaster now overtook Totson as Yako's powerful magic
changed the rear wave into a mountain of stone. Totson's
canoe struck it and he was thrown headlong upon the rocks,
where he was changed instantly into a large black bird,
the croaking Raven, which flapped weaponless to the mountain
topo

Yako's exertions had been so exhausting that he fell
forward across the thwart of his canoe, where he lay long
insensible and asleep. When he finally awoke, he was in
the midst of his beautiful forest on the banks of the
Yukon River, where Tsukala, now grown to young womanhood,



26

"In order to retain and to coordinate all these favorable
influences, Mr. Sheldon called, at his house in New York, a
meeting of the Game. Preservation Committee of the Boone and
Crockett Club, which was attended also by a committee from the
Camp Fire Club and one from the American Game Protective Asso-
ciation, both of which societies were deeply interested in the
proposed bill and had done effective work in its behalf. At
this meeting it was determined that the campaign in Congress
be entrusted to the American Game Protective Association, its -
President, Mr. Burnham, assuming the active leadership.
Mr. Burnham was duly authorized by his association to under~
take this work, and the various clubs and individuals support- .
ing the measure agreed to act unitedly under his direction.

“Immediately after the introduction of these bills in
Congress, a widespread campaign was started to accelerate
their passage and in this work George Bird Grinnell, now
President of the Boone and Crockett Club, took an active part,
ably backed by a number of clubs and associations and influen-
tial individuals. Hearings were held before the Committee on
Public Lands, in the House, and of Terfitories, in the Senate.

“Some differences of opinion arose among the officials at
Washington as to the advisability of certain amendments, and
for a time no progress was made in the House, but in the
Senate the bill was reported out by the Committee.

"A11 through the spring and sumer of 1916, much active
work was done by the Boone and Crockett Club. A banquet given
by the Club in Washington gave the advocates of the bill an
opportunity to explain its importance to the country to some
members of Congress. Effective work in Washington and else-
where was also done by individual members and, above all, by
Mr. Burnhan.

"Nevertheless, first one cause and then another, which had
no relation whatever to the merits of the bill, delayed its
passage. The chief impediment was a policy adopted by the
Committee on Public Lands that not more than two national park
bills should be reported favorably in any single session of
Congress, and bills for the Mount Lassen National Park, the
Grand Canyon National Park and the Sawtooth National Park all
claimed right of way over the Mount McKinley bill.

“Public sentiment, however, kept piling up in favor of
immediate action on the Mount McKinley National Park, in order
to save its game while there was yet time. When the bill was
finally reported out in 1917, it was so late in the session
that ib took its place on the Unanimous Consent Calendar of
the House, where a single objection might block it. Yet,
because of the ceaseless activity of Mr. Sheldon and



62

136

15.

16.

17.

(Memorandum. Herschel Parker lunched with Sheldon
Decenber 27, and Sheldon consulted him about boundaries
of the park. Parker at once consulted Browne).

December 29, Sheldon had conference with Mather and others
in Washington.

R. S. Yard, Washington, D. C., to Grinnell, New York,
January 6, 1916.

Saw Sheldon in Washington, hopes he will keep his hand on
the business (of park) until it actually comes before
Congress as a good bill.

‘Meantime Belmore Browne of the Campfire Club turned up

in Washington yesterday upon the same errand. He is
Chaiman of the Conservation Committee of that Club and

he came down here to see if there was anything at all being
done toward getting McKinley made a National Park. He was
much surprised to find that Mr. Sheldon and the Boone and
Crockett Club were first in the field. He is going to get
in touch with Mr. Sheldon immediately upon his return."

Yard, Washington, B. ©, to Sheldon, New York, January 7,
1916.

Refers to visit "yesterday" by Belmore Browne, talking
Mt. McKinley.

Sheldon, New York, to Yard, Washington, D. C., January 8,
1916.

Advises consultation with Wickersham so that he shall be
interested. Mather spoke before whole Boone and Crockett
Club Thursday night (annual meeting) and received with
enthusiasm. Belmore Browne will be of much assistance.
Professor Parker suggested the south lines.

H. G. Gray, Secretary, Boone and Crockett Club, New York, to
Sheldon, New York, January 10, 1916.

Transmitting resolution adopted at annual meeting of the .
Club held January 6, approving plan for Mt. McKinley Park,

appointing Sheldon and Grant committee to do various things

and to advocate the plan prepared as the plan of the Boone -
and Crockett Club.

Thomas Riggs, Jr., Washington, D. C., to Sheldon, New York,
January 12, 1916.



25.

26.

27.

28,

296

30.

31.

320

330

Bhe

36.

Sheet of carbon copy which has something to do with boundaries
of proposed park. Changes.

Sheldon to Riggs, January 29, 1916.
Approving changes.

Sheldon to Mather, Washington, D. C., February 8, 1916.
Urging meeting about the bill in Washington.

Mather to Sheldon, February 9, 1916.
Promises to arrange for a conference.

Sheldon to Mather, February 26, 1916.
Advises of his departure for Mexico in two or three days.
States that it has been arranged to put the matter of the
bill in the hands of John B. Burnham, and that he will
organize people throughout the country in behalf of the
bill.

Sheldon to Mather, March 25, 1916.

Has just returned. Speaks with enthusiasm of the limits of
the proposed McKinley Park.

Mather to Sheldon, April 3, 1916.

Bill will soon be transmitted to Wickersham. Unable to
suggest a Senator to introduce it. (Sheldon pencils note,
NT advise Senator Pittman.)

Copy of bill introduced by Wickersham April 18, 1916, to
establish the Mount McKinley National Park in the territory of
Alaska.

Bill, S. 5716, introduced by Mr. Pittman April 22, 1916; same
title.

"A Plea for Mount McKinley National Park", by Belmore Browne

and R. S. Yard, published by the Campfire Club of America,

Boone and Crockett Club, American Game Protective Association,

1916. -

Hearings before a sub-committee of the Committee on Public
Lands on bill introduced by Wickersham, held May h, 1916.

Hearing before the Committee on Territories, United States
Senate, on S. 5716, held May 5, 1916.



376

38.

38a.

396

ko.

i.

2.

43.

65
Sheldon to Mather, May 5, 1916.
Report of interviews with Senator Pittman and Wickersham;
and expression of hope that bill establishing park may be
passed even if not in perfect shape.

John B, Burnham, New York, to Sheldon, Woodstock, Vermont,
dune 2, 1916.

Report of trip to Washington; bill is being held up in
House apparently because of friction between Wickershan
and. sub-committee over Lane's amendment.

Sheldon to Mather, June 13, 1916.
Indirectly suggests withdrawal of Lane amendment to the
bill. Suggests that McClintic be influenced to report bill
without amendment.

H. M. Albright, Washington, D. C., to Sheldon, New York,
dune 15, 1916.

Mather absent; bill came up in Senate about two weeks ago;
was objected to and failed.

McClintic, Washington, D. C., to Burnham, New York, June 28,
1916.

Letter as to progress of bill. This letter sent to Sheldon
with letter 1.

Burnham, New York, to Sheldon, Vermont, duly 7, 1916.
Detailed report of visit to Washington, telling of fric-
tion between Wickersham and Interior Department on account
of amendment.

Burnham, New York, to Mather, Washington, D. Ce, July 7, 1916.

Letter which accompanied copy of Burnham's letter to
Sheldon of July 7, sent to Mather.

Burnham to Sheldon, Vermont, July 21, 1916.

Enclosing letter from Mather's secretary, showing that Lane
has withdrawn amendment.

Copy of letter from Mather's secretary to Burnham, July 20,
1916, as above, sent to Sheldon.



23

Transportation

In 1913, the Alaska Highway Commission undertook to finish the
highway from Valdez on salt water to Fairbanks, on which work had
been done intermittently since the beginning of the century. Short-
ness of the season had hampered the work, but by 1923 it had been
carried through to completion. It was named the Richardson Highway
in honor of Col. Reese Richardson. A highway of secondary impor-
tance was the Steese Highway, which connected Fairbanks with the
Yukon River at Circle City.

Of even greater significance was the building of a railway to
the interior, hitherto held up by obstacles that seemed insuperable.
In 1912, President Taft named a commission to carry out a survey and
to submit to the Executive a comprehensive report. This was not
available in time for action by the outgoing President, but in 1914,
President Woodrow Wilson authorized the construction of a line and
appointed a commission of three engineers to supervise the worke
Surveying parties were organized and sent out in the spring of the
year to locate a possible route or routese Construction was begm
in 1915 and President Harding drove the last spike in 1923. aL,

From 1905 to 1917, many prospectors who had joined the gold
stampede to the Kantishna trapped and prospected in this area. With
the passage of the Bill to build the Alaska Railroad, more people
came to Alaska and fresh meat was in demand. As a result, many
market hunters visited the basins of the Teklanika and Toklat Rivers
and killed large numbers of mountain sheep for the Fairbanks market.
With the establishment of the town of Nenana, a market for wild meat
was brought closer to this great game range, and the completion of
the railroad made accessible to visitors a famous game country which
had so far been preserved only by its inaccessible location. It was
imperative, therefore, if the great game herds were to be preserved,
that some provision should be made by law to prohibit hunting in
this region. 22,



ve)

Dickey, Wo Ao °
Discoveries in Alaska, the Unknown Region North of Cook's
Inlet :
New York Sun; Jan. 24, 1897, p. 6, map
The Sushitna River, Alaska
National Geographic Magazine; 8, Nov. 1897; pp. 322-327

Dixon, Joseph
Contribution to the Life History of the Alaska Willow
Ptarmigan .
The Condor; Vol. 29, No. 53 pp. 214223
The Surfbird's Secret
The Condor; Vol. 29, No. 6; ppo 3-16
Birds and Mammals of Mount MoKinley National Park
U. S. Dept. of Interior, National Park Service, Fauna
Series No. 3; 236 pages, 1938

Dunn, Robert
Series of 5 articles in the Outing Magazine
1. Across the Forbidden Tundra
Outing Magazine; 43, Jan. 19043 pp. 459-471, ills.
2. Into the Mists of Wt. McKinley
Quting Magazine; 43, Feb. 1904; pp. 535-645, ills.
3. Storm-wrapped on Mt. McKinley; 43, March 1904; pp. 697-
706, ills.
4. Highest on Mt. McKinley
Outing Magazine; 44, April, 19043 pp. 27-35, ills.
5» Home by Ice and by Swimming fran Mount McKinley
Outing Magazine; 44, May, 1904; pp. 214-219, ills.
Mountaineering in North America
Outing Magazine; 50, Sept. 1907; pp. 714-722
The Shameless Diary of an Explorer
The Outing Publishing Co.; 1907, New York, 297 pages,
ills., map

Ellis, Robert Eo
4srial Observations of Alaskan Mountains
The Mountaineer; 23:13 Dec. 1930, pp. 33-34

Eldridge, George H.
A Reconnaissance in the Susitna Basin and Adjacent Territory,
Alaska
U. S. Geo. Surveys 20th Annual Report (1898-99) Pt. 7,
509 pages, 1900, ills., index, maps

Fairbanks Daily News Miner
Alaska Aviators Fly Over Americats Loftiest Peak
Fairbanks, August 15, 1930, po le
Climbers Reach Top Mt. McKinley
Fairbanks, May 16, 1932, pp. 1 & 5
University Trio Tops McKinley
Fairbanks, July 31, 1947, po 1



=
:



First School... 2 6 ee ee ee eae

First Commercial Moving Picture Filmed

First Death Caused by Shooting... .«

Commercial Mining of Coal
First Article

Citations .. 2» «e+e
Births». eee e eee
Prospecting and Mining .
Aviation... 2... ee
Memorials

Friends of the Park . .

in the Park

Appendix A, History of Mount McKinley National Park

Appendix B, Act Establishing Mount McKinley National Park

Listrof:Publications Relating to Mount McKinley National Park.

References + +s ee eo ee ee eee

di
56
56
56
56
56
56
57
57
57
58
59
60
67
69
90



12

Cantwell (now Nenana River), which we believe to head in
the northern part of the Alaska Range. We continued_o
course northeastward along the front of the range." Li

Companions with Brooks were D. L. Raeburn and L. M. Prindle, as
well as four able and enthusiastic camp men. They had participated
in the greatest feat of pioneering ever undertaken in this moun-
tainous region. In summary, from June 1 to September 15, the party
had travelled from Cook's Inlet across the Skwentna Flats, up the
Katchatna River, across Rainy Pass, along the entire northern slope
of the Alaska Range to the Nenana River, thence to the Tanana River,
Rampart, and St. Michael. The maps and geologic data which resulted
from this expedition represent a monumental accomplishment for a
single season's work. Brooks’ discoveries, reports, writings and
recommendations still represent the most complete’ and reliable single
work on thé McKinley region. For a distance of more than a hundred
miles, his Youte of travel had taken him through the approximate
center (east to west) of what is now Mount McKinley National Park. 13/

The next year, 1903, saw two actual attempts made to climb
Mount McKinley. After holding the first term of court at the
newly established mining camp of Fairbanks, Judge James Wickersham
made the first attempt. In addition to himself, his party con-
sisted of George Jeffrey, a court stenographer; Mort Stevens;
Charlie Webb, packer and woodsmans and John McLeod, interpreters
McLeod, the son of a Hudson Bay Company trader, had spent the
greater part of his life on the lower Mackenzie River. He spoke
the Tena language -- all the northern Tena dialects --and was hunter,
canoeman, and trapper. He knew the wilderness as well as his
foster-brothers, the Indians. Two other members of the party were
Mark and Hamak, mules, so named in honor of Hon. Marcus Alonzo
Hanna, of Ohio, the friend of President, McKinley, after whom Dickey
had named the mountain. The party's food supplies consisted of
ordinary prospector's and miner's food, The river boat "Tanana Chief"
was engaged to take them as far as possible up the river the Indians
called "Kantishna.”

On May 16, Wickersham's group left Fairbanks on the river boat
"Isabelle® for the town of Chena, where the complete outfit was
transferred to the “Tanana Chief." This was the first river boat to
attempt to navigate that river.

The party unloaded their outfit on May 19 on the bank of the .
Kantishna River at the mouth of the Toklat River, at the Indian
camp of Nachereah the moose hunter. There they were greeted by
50 Athabascans and 100 malemute dogs. Going on, the party arrived .
on May 23 at the Indian camp of Tecktawgana, the blind Chief of the
Kantishna, in the land of Koonah. This is 20 miles from the creek
that the Indiens call Chiteia, which is now named Moose Greek and
has its source in the park.



Other natives of Alaska had different names for Mount McKinley.
The Talkeetna Indians' name, "Trolika", signifies "High Mountain." 2/
The little handful of natives on the Susitna River, who never ap-
proach nearer than a hundred miles to the mountain, have a slightly
different name for it. They call it "Traleika", which in their
language also means "High Mountain." But the area in which and the
people by whom this mountain is known as "Denali", preponderate so ‘
greatly as to leave no question which native name it should bear. 3/

Indian Legends

The following Indian legend of Mount McKinley is a condensed
version of the one told to Judge James Wickersham in 1903 by Koonah,
the blind chief of the Kantishna:

Long before Denali (Mount McKinley) was created, there
lived in the forests of Alaska a certain Indian, the strong
and brave Yakoo

He lived alone, as there were no women in his land. He
possessed great power over everything but he had no wife, which
he greatly desired.

Ses, the great brown bear, told him that far to the west-
ward he would find a village where there were beautiful females.
This was the hunting grounds of the Raven War Chief, Totson,
who was a great warrior. This pleased Yake, for he was a
magician of great power, so he decided #% travel to far away
Yunana, the summset land, that he might see these beautiful
females and take one for his wife.

He built himself a birch bark canoe out of materials
from the forests and painted the framework red, as the Tena
have done ever since. Then he floated down the mighty Yukon
River to Yunana land where, along the* seashore, dwelt the
tribes of Totson, the Raven Chief. Hetapproached the village
singing a song, telling Totson he had come to see the beauti-
ful females of his village and ask him for one of them for
his wife. .

All of the young women of the village gathered along
the beach to hear Yako's song. The wife of the second chief
came down to’ the beach and spoke softly to Yako, saying:
"Yako, you may have my daughter, Tsukala, who is yet a child, >
but will grow big and strong and good, for your wife. Take
her and go quickly, for Totson, the Raven Chief, is now
preparing to kill you."

The group of village girls, led by Totson's daughter,
were jealous and came shrieking and clawing to Tsukala's
mother to prevent her from giving her daughter to the



84

Ross, Clyde P.
Mineral Deposits Near the West Fork of. the Chulitna River,
Ale ska
U. S. G. &., Bul. 849-E, 1933; Investigations in
Alaska RR Belt

Rost, Ernest C.
Mount McKinley, a Review of Attempts, Successful and Otherwise
Washington; J. S, Milene and Sons, 1914, 33 pages

Rusk, D. Ee
On the Trail of Dr. Cook
Pacific Monthly; 24, Oct. 1910, pp. 430-4423 a, Nov. 1910,
ppe 472-4863 25, Jan. 1911, pp. 48-62

Sargent, R. H.
The Monarchs of Alaska
National Geo. Mags; July 1909, Vol. 20, pp. 610-623, ills.

Schein, Marcel with Carr, Thomas D. and Barbour, Ian
Cosmic-Ray Investigations on Mt. McKinley
The Bhysical Review; 73, June 15, 1948, pp. 1419-1423

Schoop, John
Mit Merl LaVoy auf den Mount McKinley
De Alpen-Les Alpes-Le Alpi; 8:9; Sept. 1932,
ppe 357-363, ills.

Schwab, Henry B. de Villiers
The Mt. McKinley Disaster
American Alpine Journal; 1:43:19323 ppe 511-514
Notes of Early Chapters in the History of Mt. McKinley
American Alpine Journals 2:13 1932, pp. 121-124
The Accident on Mt. McKinley
Alpine Journals; 44:245; Nove 1932, ppe 357-360

Science
Note on Mt. McKinley
Sciences N.S. 173 Jan. 2, 1903, pe 40

Scientific American
Dr. Cook Ascends Mt. McKinley
Scientific American; 953; pp. 445-446, Dec. 15, 1906

Scull, B. Marshall
Hunting in the Arctic and Alaska
Philadelphia; John C. Winston Coo; 1914, 304 pages,
ills., map

Seattle Post-Intelligencer, The
Archdeacon is Conqueror of Mt. McKinley
Seattle Post~Intelligencers; June 21, 1913, ppe 1 & 16, ills.


For ty-Ninth Star, The
High Adventure
Anchorage; Vol. 32, Dec. 14, 1947, pp» 1, 7-9, and 13,
ills.

Geographical Journal, London
Note on the Highest Summit of North America
Geographical Journal; 40, Nov. 1912, p. 536
Professor Parker's Attempted Ascent of Mt. McKinley in 1910
Geographical Journal; 38, Oct. 1911, po 433
Prof. Parker's New Attempt on Mt. McKinley
Geographical Journal; 39, April 1912, p. 400
Note on the ascent of Mount McKinley
Geographical Journal; 42, Aug. 1913, pp. 197-198
Note on Professor Parker's last attempt on Mount McKinley
Geographical Journal; 40, Nov. 1912, p. 566
New Ascent of Mount McKinley
Geographical Journal; 82, Aug. 1933, po 175

Geographical Society of Philadelphia
Note on the death of Allen Carpe and Theodore Koven
Bul. of the Geo. Soc. of Phil.; 30:3; July 1932, p. 192

Gibson, Rex
Mt. McKinley in War Time
Canadian Alpine Journal; 28, 1942-1943, pp. 147-158, ills.

Glenn, Edwin F., and Abercrombie, W. R.
Reports of the Explorations in the Territory of Alaska, 1898,
Made Under the Secretary of War. Cook's Inlet, Sushitna,
Copper and Tanana Rivers.
Wash. D.C., Ue S. Adjutant General's Office, Military
Infor. Service, Bul. 25, 1899, 464 pages, maps

Goble, Frans C. and Murie, Adolph
A Record of Lungworm in Ovis Dalli (Nelson)
Journal of Mammalogy; 23, 1942, pp. 220=221

Grant, Madison
The Establishment of Mount McKinley National Park
Hunting and Gonservations Yale Univ. Press, pp» 438-445,
ills.

Hagie, E. EB.
Alaska =~ The Land Few People Know
Overland Monthly, 2nd ser.; 87, June 1929; pp. 175-176,
ills. .

Hall, George L.
Sometime Again, Army Rest Camp Adventures
Superior Publishing Co., Seattle, 1945



80

Mazama
The Conquest of Mount McKinley
Mazama; 3:13 1907, pp. 55~60

McCracken, Harold
The Gams Situation in Alaska
American Forests; 30, June 1924, pp. 323-328, 362,
ills.

Mertie, J. Be, dre
Mountain Building in Alaska
American Journal of Science; 5th Ser.; 203 Aug. 1940,
pp. 101-124, map

Metcalfe, Gertrude
Mount McKinley and the Mazama Expedition
Pacific Monthly; 24, Sept. 10, 1910, pp. 255-265

Metealfe, Gertrude, and Rusk, Claude E.
Mount McKinley and the Mazama Expedition
Mazama; 27, Portland, Oregons Dec. 1945, ppe 5-31, ills.

Merriam, C. H.
Description of the Toklat Grizzly
Proc. Bio, Society; Washington, D. C., 1914
Review of the Grizzly and Big Brown Bears of Notth America
North American Fauna No. 4, 1918

Meyer, Herbert A.
Mount McKinley, the Monarch of Mountains
Reclamation Record; 9, March 19183 ppe 150-131

Mills, Enos A.
Will the Grizzly be Exterminated
The Grizzly; New York, Houghton Mifflin, 1919, pp.273~283

Moffitt, F. H.
Mineral Resources of the Mabesna-White River District,
Alaska, 1910
Washe, De Co, Ue Se Geo. Survey Bul. 417, ills., mp
The Broad Pass Region, Alaska, 1915
U. Ss Geo. Survey Bul. 608, pp. 9-78, ills., maps, index
The Kantishna District
Ue S. Geo. Survey Bul. 836, pp. 301-338, map

Moutoux, John J.

Ascending the Steep Roof of the Continent, Just to Look Out
the Windows of Heaven

The Knoxville News-Sentinel; Tenne; May 22, 1932,
ppe 1 and 8, ills.



18

Expeditions to Climb Mount McKinley

The Pioneer Ascent

A discussion on the climbing of Mount McKinley took place in
Billy McPhee's saloon in Fairbanks during January, 1910.. Some of
the miners from the Kantishna district said they would climb the
mountain if someone would finance the cost of the expedition to the
extent of $1,500. McPhee and Peterson, saloon-keepers of Fairbanks,
and Griffin, a wholesale liquor dealer of Chena, put up that amount.
These men were of the opinion that Dr. Ceok had never climbed
Mount McKinley.

The enterprise took form under Thomas Lloyd, who was joined by
Charles McGonagall, William Taylor, Peter Anderson, and Bob Horne,
all experienced prospectors and miners from the Kantishna mining
district, and BE. C. Davidson, a surveyor, who was later Surveyor-
General of Alaska. The Kantishna miners were then in Fairbanks
getting supplies for the following year.

The party left Fairbanks in January via dog team and travelled
to their headquarters in the Kantishna, 125 miles distant. By
March 1, they had established a base camp at the north of Cache Creek,
within the foothills of the range. Here Davidson and Horne left the
party after a disagreement with Lloyd. The loss of Davidson was a
fatal blow to anything beyond a "sporting" ascent, for he was the
only man in the party with any scientific bent, or who knew much
about the manipulation of a photographic camera.

The Lloyd expedition was the first to discover the only approach
by which the mountain may be. climbed. :From several years of observa~
tion while hunting mountain sheep upon the foothills, Lloyd had found
the key to the complicated orography of the great mass. He had pre-
viously crossed the range with horses in this neighborhood by an easy
pass, now Anderson Pass, that led "from willows to willows" in
18 miles. Pete Anderson had also come into the Kantishna country
this way, and had crossed and recrossed the range by this pass no
less than eleven times. In addition, McGonagall, following quartz
leads upon the high mountains of Moose Creek, had traced from his
aerie the course of the Muldrow Glacier and had satisfied himself
that within the walls of that glacier the route would be found. These
men thus started with the great advantage of a knowledge of the moun-
tain, and their plan for climbing it was the first that contained the
possibility of success.

From the base camp Anderson and McGonagall scouted among the
foothills of the range for some time before they discovered the
pass (now McGonagall Pass) that gives easy access to the Muldrow
Glacier. On March 25, the party had traversed the glacier and
reached its head with dogs and supplies. A camp was made on the
ridge at approximately 12,000 feet, while further prospecting was



184/D314
A

HISTORY
OF

MOUNT MCKINLEY
NATIONAL PARK

Scanned 7/17/00



Muldrow, Robert
Mount McKinley
National Geographic Mago; 12:83 Aug. 19013 pp. 312-313,
map

Murie, Adolph
Wolves of Mount McKinley
U. & Dept. of Interior; 1944, 238 pages, ills., map
The Wilds Where the Caribou Roam
. Audubon Magazine, 1942, pp. 3-11
Observations on the Birds of Mount McKinley National Park
The’ Condor; Volo 48, No. 6, 19463 pp. 253-261
The Mysterious Mouse
Audubon Magazine; Vol. 50, No. 4, 1948; pp. 202-210
Another Look at McKinley Park Sheep
Living Wilderness; Article and Reprints

Murie, 0. J.
Nesting Records of the Wandering Tattler and Surf~bird in
Ala ska
Data Unknow
Wolfs
The Living Wilderness; 1948, Vol. 13, No. 25
Alaska Yukon Caribou
Ue S. Dept. of Agrio: Bio. Survey; 1935, No Am. Fauna
No. 54

Myers, Harry Mo and William A.
Adventures in McKinley Park
Private printing, 1933
Back Trails
Private printing, 1934, 269 pages. Adventures in
McKinley Park

Nation, The
The Conquest of Mt. McKinley (Book review)
The Nation; 98, New York, January 22, 1914, ppe 84-85

Nelson, B. W.
Report upon the Natural History Collections Made in Alaska
Between 1877-1881
Washo De Co, Ue S. Govt. Printing Office, 1888, 337 pages »#3

New York Sim
Four Climb Mount McKinley
New York Sum; April 13, 1910
Prof. Parker To Try It Too
New York Sum; April 13, 1910
McKinley 20,500 feet high
New York Sun, April 14, 1910
Dr. Stuck Relates Mt. McKinley Climb
New York Su, Sept. 6, 1913



AL

Adolph Murie made a further field study in the park of the
wolf-Dall sheep relationship, which was temporarily discontinued
in August 1941. His publication, The Wolves of Mount McKinley,
summarizing the results of this study, was published in TOlQ.
Beginning again April 30, 1947, and continuing to October 1951,
he devoted his time to further study of the wolf-shéep relation-
ship and to the flora and other fauna of the park. He is now
preparing material for publication on his findings. He was the
first Biologist of the National Park Service to be assigned
permanently to this park.

Botany

During June and July, 1927, Mrs. Inez Mexia and her assistant,
Miss Frances Payne, were in the park making a collection of wild
flowers and shrubs for the University of California and other
institutions. This was the first detailed study made of the botany
of Mount McKinley National Park. The area covered was from McKinley
Park Station to Copper Mountain (now Mt. Eielson) along the park
road and park traile

From June 23 to September 1939, Dr. and Mrs. Aven Nelson, from
the University of Wyoming, collected and classified the park
vegetation for the Museum of London, the Smithsonian Institution
and Mount McKinley National Park. 2t/



Coming of the White Man

Alaska was discovered on July 15, 171, by Alexei Ilich
Chirikof, second in command to Vitus Bering, who headed the first
Russian expedition to these coasts. Soon after, Russian fur
hunters sailing east from the coast of Siberia first came upon
the Aleutian Archipelago, which they took possession of in the
name of the Czar. Having established themselves on these islands,
they pushed farther east, explored the exterior coast of the main-
land, and after many fights with the warlike tribes of these re-
gions, established ports along the Bering Sea and the North Pacifice
The Russian Government granted to these early adventurers special
rights in the territory which they had discovered for the crowns
Thus was the foundation laid of the Russian-American Fur Company,
which held almost undisputed sway over Alaska until it was pur-
chased by the United States in 1867 through the foresight, diplomacy
and wisdom of Hon. William H. Seward, then Secretary of State. 2/

Despite its commanding position, the significance of "Denali"
was not realized until late in the nineteenth century. The Russians
had named it "Bulshaia Gora" and the first known mention in liter-
ature of the mountain group in which it is situated was in the
narrative of the English navigator, George Vancouver. While sur-
veying the Knik Arm of Cook's Inlet in 179), he had noted distant
snow covered mountains which apparently were detached from each
others

Another who later saw it from a distance was William H. Dall,
who named it the "Alaska Range” in 1867. Dall, Alaska Director
of the Scientific Corps of Western Union Telegraph, was in charge
of a'party of engineers that at the time was seeking a route for
a cable line from the United States to Asia.

In 1878 two Alaskan traders, Alfred Mayo and Arthur Harper,
made an adventurous journey some 300 miles up the Tanana River.
This was the first ascent of that river by white men. On their
return they reported finding gold on the river bars and mentioned
an enormous ice mountain visible in the south, which they said
was the most remarkable thing they had seen on the trip. 6

Another to tell of "Denali" was Ivan Petroff, who, in his let-
ter of transmittal to the Secretary of State, August 7, 1682,
wrote:

"What the country north of Cook's Inlet is like
no civilized man can tell, as in all the years of
occupation of the coast by the Caucasian race it
had remained a sealed book. The Indians tell us
that the rivers lead into lakes and that the Lakes



stood by his side with a dish of wild berries and dried
salmon which she had prepared for his suppers

Gazing around the horizon, Yako saw the mountains
he had. created, the smaller one in the.west, ,halfway back
to Yunana, the sunset land, while the greater one, the
mighty dome from whose crest the spear of Totson glanced
as it sped to its position amid the stars, was that which
the Tena call "Denali, the high one." Far above him, above
the mountains and forests of Tenaland, floating lazily on
outstretched wing, he saw Totson, the croaking Ravene hy

There is another Indian legend associated with the highest
mountain ori the North American continent. Long'ago, according to
this legend, some of the natives were hunting near the foot of
Denali. It being the longest days of the summer, they were camped
on the south side of thé "Big One" and they saw the sun disappear
into Denali*in the late-evening. Early the next morning they saw
it come out’ of the other side. Upon returning,to their village,
they told the chief, “Surely we found the home of the sun, as we
saw with our own eyes the sun go into the mountain, and saw it
leave its home in the morning."

Such a legend is easy to comprehend if one were standing at
the foot of Denali on a summer's evening while the sun was setting.
The early natives were a simple, hardy race and must have loved
nature beyond anything else.



Another Army cold weather test party from Wright Field used
the park during October-December, 19], when 87 days were spent in
the wilderness of the Alaska Range testing food and clothing for
the Air Forcee Washburn, technical adyisor for the Air Force, was
in charge of the party. He was assistéd by Major Bass, Captain
Sharp, and Lieutenant Eveler. A similar party led by Washburn
again visited the Alaska Range during March-May, 1945. Washburn
was assisted by Maj. Frank Foster (M. D.), Lt. Jack Pechman, and
Norman Bright, civilian advisor from Wright Field. On this trip
this party made ,the first ascent of Mount Silverthrone, elevation
13,800 feet. 32/ :

Interpretive Services

During the period from 1921 to 1928, all interpretive services
in the park were performed by the Superintendent. The program con-
sisted mainly of talks to the tourists at the Savage River conces-
sioner's camp. In addition, a park ranger was generally present at
the dog kennels to explain the use of sled dogs.

From 1929 to 1951, interpretive services conducted by the
Superintendent and rangers consisted of giving illustrated talks at
the Savage River tourist camp until 1939, when this camp closed, and
thereafter at the McKinley Park Hotel. From 19 to 1950, a one~
room log building was used at park headquarters for an exhibit build-
ing. Since its condemnation in 1950, another building has been
provided.

» First Ranger Naturalist

During June-August, 1932, the first ‘temporary ranger-naturalist,
David Kaye, was employed. A medical student, he was employed as
there was no doctor or nurse in the park. In addition to his first-
aid duties, Ranger Kaye gave talks on the natural history of the
park. He was instructed in naturalist work by Joseph Dixon, Field
Naturalist of the National Park Service, who was in the park at that
time.

First Park Naturalist

On June 29, 1951, the first permanent naturalist was estab-
lished in the park with the appointment of Park Ranger William J.
Nancarrow to that position. On occasion he and other park per- °
sonnel travel to other parts of Alaska to give interpretive
programs relating to the natural history of Mount McKinley. 33/


37

Early Inns and Hotels and Their Keepers

The first permanent resident of the park was Maurice Morenoe
He was an old-time Alaskan, having come to Alaska in 1900. En-
visioning the setting up of a roadhouse, he set out for this area
at about the time Congress authorized the building of the Alaska
Railroad in 1915. Others had had the same idea and located them
selves throughout the section of the territory where they believed
the railroad would be constructed. Moreno's choice for erecting
his on a homestead which he staked was a fortunate one, for the
railroad did come this way and right through his property. His
first roadhouse was constructed on the bench below a later ones

Moreno benefited from the patronage of the people who con
structed the railroad, an operation which terminated in 1923.
He also operated a store and trading post in cooperation with
the roadhouse, where he bought furs from the trappers and out-
fitted prospectors passing through this area for the Kantishna
and other mining areas. The first tourists to visit the park
also used his accommodations.

The building of the park highway brought in many workers of
the Alaska Road Commission. Those who lived at McKinley Park
were patrons of the Moreno Roadhouse, where they could obtain
lodging, meals or supplies. They were allowed to construct
cabins or shacks on Moreno's land where they could spend the
winters when they weren't employed on the park highway. After
becoming Moreno's property by arrangement when the builder left
McKinley Park Station, he would then rent the structures to
other transient workers or to visitors of the area.

In 1923, Moreno built a new roadhouse. Although this house
was typically Alaskan in the services that were provided, the
structure itself could scarcely be called "Alaskan" in all respects.
True, it was built of native materials, but Moreno harked back to
the designs of his homeland, sunny Italy, and had the roadhouse
constructed by a fellow Italian in two stories with open verandaso

After Moreno had obtained a patent to 120 acres on August 1,
193, his heirs sold the property to the National Park Service on
October 2, 1947. He had died in 1937. Buried on a hill over-
looking his homestead, it can be said that he was a man who loved
Alaska as well as his readhouse. Among his other accomplishments
was the garden, where every summer he helped to supply food. He
was also postmaster.

Other interesting characters near the park included Mary, one
of the *gals't who located in the McKinley Park Station area in
1922. She also sold some supplies, including moonshine, which was
illegal during the prohibition era, She vacated from the area in
1926. Catherine, who ran competition to Mary also left in 1926
when business dropped off.



78

Hall, Henry 8., Jr.
Mt. MoKinley Park
American Alpine Journal; 6, 1946, p. 172

Haverstich, John M.
Mountain Without Mercy (it. Deception)
Yank Magazines; Jan. 26, 1945, sketch and ills.

Herron, Joseph S.
Explorations in Alaska, 1899, for an All-American Overland
Route from Cook Inlet, Pacific Ocean to the Yukon
Washe, De Co, Ue Se War Dept., Adjutant Gen. Offices
Mil. Info. Services Bul. 31, March 1901, 77 pps, ills., map

Hough, Philip Re
Big Game in Alaska
American Forests; 32, Oct. 1926, pp. 595-599, ills.

Houston, Charles S.
First Ascent of Mt. Foraker .
Appalachia; 20; Dec. 1934, pp. 349-350
Denali's Wife :
American Alpine Journals 2; Dec. 1935, ppe 285-297, ills.

Houston, Oscar R
Note on the Herron Glacier
Alpine Journal; 47; Nov. 1935, pp. 242-243

Huber, Louis R.
Climbing Mount McKinley
Alaska Life, June 1946, Vole 9, Noe 6, ppe 14-15
The Incredible Conquest of Mt. McKinley
Natural History; 583 Dec. 1949, pp. 440-446, ills.

Hulten, Brio
Flora of Alaska and the Yukon
Lunds University, Arssrift, 9 Vol., Sweden

Karstens, Harry P. .
Diary of the First Ascent of Mowmt McKinley
American Alpine Club, New York, unpublished
How to Reach Mt. McKinley National Park, Alaska
Sierra Club Bul.; No. 7, 1924, pp. 91-92

Ladd, William S.
In Mem@riam, Allen Carps, 1894-1932
American Alpine Journal; 1; New York, 1932, ppo 507-509

LaVoy, Merl
Describes Finding of Koven's Body
New York Times, Aug. 30, 1932, pe 38



25

Boone and Crockett Club, and after full discussion received
the Conmittee's endorsement. On Becenber 3 of the same year,
it was formally laid before James Wickersham, then delegate
from Alaska, who, after some deliberation, gave his approval,
to the establishment of a park in the Mount McKinley region.
The whole project was then presented to the Executive Comittee
of the Boone and Crockett Club and was unanimously endorsed by
them on Decenber 15, 1915.

"The plan was thereupon brought to the attention of
Stephen T. Mather, in charge of national parks at Washington,
DBD. Co, as a plan originating with and endorsed by the
Boone and Crockett Club. It received the immediate and cor~
dial approval of Mr. Mather. He and Secretary Lane secured
the cooperation of Thomas Riggs, Jrs, later Governor of Alaska
but at that time in charge of the Alaskan Boundary Survey.

Mr. .Riggs was asked to draw a bill for the establisiment of

a national park in the Mount McKinley region, with boundaries
as suggested by Mr. Sheldon. The western, northern and eastern
limits of the park were laid out by’ Mr. Sheldon from his own
personal knowledge, based on observations made during an

entire winter season spent on and near the northern slopes of
the mountain. The southern boundary, of little importance with
reference to the conservation of game, was based on convenient
topographical features.

“after this plan had been formally presented to the authori~
ties in Washington, several similar propositions, some including
the Mount McKinley region, were brought forward, but the net
result of these activities was the preliminary drawing of a
bill by Mr. Riggs with the boundaries approximately as outlined
by Mr. Sheldon.

"yr. Sheldon suggested that the park be mow as "The Denali
National Park", “Denali® being the local Indian name for the
mountain and signifying "The Great High One’. This suggestion,
however, was not followed. The drafted bill was submitted to
and approvéd by Delegate Wickersham, who thereupon decided to
introduce thé bill himself.

"After prolonged discussion as to boundaries, the original
outlines, approximately as suggested by Charles Sheldon, were
accepted and were embodied in Bills introduced in April. 1916,
by Delegate Wickersham in the House, and in the Senate by
Senator Key Pitman, of Nevada.

"Meantime, other organizations and individuals interested
in game conservation and in national parks ha taken up the
proposed park scheme and were at Washington, arousing public
sentiment in its favore



2

if

cal Improvenents

First construction at the present headquarters was in 1925,
when, in August of tat year, park headquarters was moved to a
new location near mile No. 2 on the park road. Several cabins
were torn down at the old headquarters on Riley Creek near the
railroad and three. one-room log cabins were erected at the new
headquarters. In addition, a barn was built of salvage lumber .
for the four park herses; the park office was housed in a tent,
as was the warehouse; the water system consisted of a pair of
husky water buckets; and water was carried from a creek 100 yards
distant. The sewer system consisted of outdoor toilets. Baths
were taken in a wash tub, the water being heated on a stove.

In May and June 1926, a log office building 16 x 20 feet in
size was constructed by rangers of spruce logs, which were cut
near headquarters. During the same summer dcg houses and a cook
room for the sled dogs, and a one-room log cabin for the Chief
Ranger were also built at headquarters by the rangers.

in 192), £200 had been expended for the construction of two
ranger patrol cabins, one on Windy Creek at the southeast corner
of the park and the other near Hwe Creek near the northern bound-
ary in the vicinity of Savage River. Ancther structure included a
log cabin, 10 x 12 feet in size, with pole roof and moss and dirt
on top. This was constructed by Superintendent Karstens and
Rangers Nyberg and Winn at Stony Creek near Boundary Creek. The
total cost, including two windows and nails and « pair of strap
hinges, did not exceed $15.

In August 1926, Ranger Grant Pearson built a 10 x 12 foot
eabin near the Kantishna entrance on tne McKinley Fork of the
Kantishna River. It was built of spruce logs and was of the
same type as the Stony Creek cabin. Lumber was whipsawed for
the floor., the cost was the same as for the Stony Creek cabin.

During the next two years, four additional patrol. cabins were
built by rangers at McLeod Creek, Mount Zielson (Copper Mountain),
Toklat River, and Igloo Creek. Logs were hauled by dog team
20 miles for the Mount Eielson cabin.

The first money appropriated for building improvements was
in 1928, when funds were appropriated for a water system, rangers!
quarters for uomarried rangers, warehouse, and 2 barn. In 1929, .
funds were appropriated for a modern Superintendent's residence.
Chief Architect Thomas Vint of the National Park Service arrived

in the park in August 1929 to advise the Superintendent on future
developnent and to select sites for a permanent headquarters
Layout.



2h

The Establishment of Mount McKinley National Park

The establishment of Mount McKinley National Park grew largely
out of the work’ of Charles Sheldon and the Boone and Crockett Club.
As summarized by Madison Grant:

"The Boone and Crockett Club, founded originally by rifle-
men and hunters, has, with the transformation of North America
from frontier to almost old world conditions, been itself .
transformed into a club whose achievements in the field of con-
servation have been far-reaching.

"One of its most recent achievements is the establishment
of Mount McKinley National Park in Alaska, if the Club be
allowed to appropriate to itself the results of the foresight
and zeal of one of its members, Charles Sheldon. Mr. Sheldon
has adyised me that the interest of the Boone and Crockett
Club in creating game refuges, especially in Alaska, was the
sole cause which inspired in him the thought of preserving this
area after personally studying the situation in that land ...

"The plan of conserving the Mount McKinley region as a
national park was conceived in the sumer and fall of 1906
by Charles Sheldon and by him alone, and during the follow-
ing year he devoted much time to studying on the spot the
proper boundaries of the proposed national park, so as to
include thereinsterritories suitable for a game refugee

"Upon his return to the East in 1908, the Game Committee
of the Boone and Crockett Club, of which he was chairman, took
under consideration the question of game refuges in Alaska,
and especially in the region adjacent to the northern slopes
of Mount McKinley. It was felt, however, that the time was
not favorable for congressional action and that the best hope
of success rested on obtaining approval and support from the
Alaskans themselves.

"Later, while this matter was under discussion, the con-
struction of the Alaska Railroad from the southern coast of
Alaska to Fairbanks was making rapid progress and the route
as laid out crossed Broad Pass and so rendered easily acces- .
sible the eastern limit of the Mount McKinley Park outlined
in Mr. Sheldon's plan.

"The first step was to secure the approval and coopera-
tion of the delegate who represented Alaska in Congress. In
October 1915, Mr. Sheldon took up the matter with Dr. Eo We
Nelson, of the Biological Survey at Washington, D. Co, and
with Mr. George Bird Grinnell, with a view to introducing a
suitable bill at the coming session of Congress. The matter
was then again considered by the Game Committee of the



bs

Te

8.

9.

10.

lle

12.

61

Sheldon, New York, to S. T. Mather, Washington, D. C.,
Decenber 15, 1915.

Proposes the establishment of the park and says that he
has been in correspondence with Wickersham.

(The matter had been placed before the Boone and Crockett
Club Game Committee December 13, and approved by above
resolution).

S. T. Mather, Washington, D. C., to Sheldon, New York,
December 16, 1915.

Asks Sheldon to come to Washington and confer with him
or with R. B. Marshall, Superintendent National Parks.
Suggests coming now, as Riggs, of Alaska Engineering
Commission, is there.

Sheldon to Mather, December 18, 1915.

Prefers to postpone visit to Washington until he can see
both Mather and Secretary Lane. Wickersham's attitude
will depend on that of Lane.

Mather, Washington, D. Ce,to H. F. Osborn, New York,
December 18, 1915. (Refers to letter 12)

Acknowledges election to associate membership in Boone
and Crockett Club. Has already heard from Sheldon about
proposed national park in Alaska, and has taken steps to
go into matter.

Enos Mills (Colorado), Washington, D. Ce, to Sheldon, New York,
December 18, 1915.

Asks for fuller information about proposed National Park
in Alaska and if they can help the matter along. Acknow-
ledges Boone and Crockett Club's help in creation of
Rocky Mountain National Park.

Enos Mills, Colorado, to Sheldon, New York, December 22, 1915.

Acknowledges reply of December 20 and hopes to be present
in Washington when Sheldon has conference with Mather.

Refers back to letter 9. He F. Osborn, New York, to Mather,
Washington, D. Co, December 16, 1915.

Announces Mather's election to associate membership in
Boone and Crockett Club and commends Sheldon to Mather.



HISTORY OF MOUNT McKINLEY NATIONAL PARK

Geographical Setting

Mount McKinley National Park is located in south central
Alaska, just north of 63°, and is bisected by the 152nd meridian.
It forms the apex and geographical center of the great wilderness
south of the Yukon, west of the Tanana, and north of the Susitna
via the Tokositna and Chulitna Rivers.

Part of the Alaska Mountain Range running east and west lies
within the park. ‘These mountains curve in a rugged mass around
the headwaters of the Susitna, thus forming the divide between
the Cook Inlet drainage on the south and the waters flowing into
Bering Sea through the Kuskokwim and Yukon Rivers on the north.
The southern end of the range lies to the west of Cook Inlet, but
does not contain any unusually high peaks. Toward the north its
relief increases, culminating in Mount McKinley, 20,300 feet in
altitude and the highest mountain on the North American continent.

Mount McKinley is formed by a gigantic mass of granite which
was forced upward through a stratum of slate. On many of the
lower peaks close to the mountain the slate is still in position,
giving them a strange, black-capped appearance. ‘The granite of
which the mountain is composed is of light tan color, which at a
distance gives its grim cliffs a delicate pinkish hue. This
differentiates it from all other mountains and stamps it with a
beauty and grandeur of its own.

Aboriginal History of the Area

No one knows how many generations of natives have wandered
over this region, but it seems certain that the indigenous popu-
lation was greater at the first coming of the white man than it
is now. As the natives depended largely on the chase for sub-
sistence, they must have frequented the slopes of the Alaska
range and the adjacent lowlands, for this is one of the best
game regions in the Northwest. Much of the Alaska range formed
an almost impassable barrier between the hunting grounds of the
interior natives and the Cook Inlet natives.

To the relatively large Indian population of the wide re-
gions of the interior of Alaska from which they are visible,
these mountains have always borne Indian names. The natives of
the middle Yukon, of the lower three hundred miles of the Tanana
and its tributaries, and of the Kuskokwim, called these mountains
"Denali" (Den-ah'-li) and "Denali's Wife," sometimes with a dialec-
tical difference in pronunciation so slight as to be negligible.



Prospectors' Camp at the foot of Copper Mountain. 192.

Old Market Hunters' Shelter used by early park rangers for night shelter. 1926.



Liek, Harry
Liek Tells of the Mt. McKinley Ascent
Fairbanks News Miner, May 24, 1932, pp. 1-5
The Second Ascent of Mt. McKinley
Sierra Club Bulletin; 18, Feb. 1933, pp. 81-87

Life, Overseas Edition for Armed Forces
Alaska Holiday, Fun at McKinley Park Hotel
January 3, 1944

Life
Mt. McKinley
Life; 14, March 22, 1943, pp. 69-73, ills.
Mt. McKinley (Army Test Expedition of 1942)
Life; 14, March 22, 1943; pp. 69-73, ills.

Lindley, A. D.
Lindley Expedition Scales Mt. McKinley, Descending Finds
Carpe and Koven Dead. :
New York Times, May 17, 1932, pp. 1 & 3, ills., sketch
map
Carpe, Koven Lost Hunting Companions
New York Times, May 19, 1932, p. 12
The Ascent of Mt. McKinley
Canadian Alpine Journal; 21, 1932, pp. 111-121, ills.
Mt. McKinley, North and South Peaks, 1932
American Alpine Journals 2:1; 1933, pp. 36-44, ills.
Mt. McKinley Revisited
Alpine Journals; 45: 246; May 1933, pp. 85-93, ills.

Literary Digest
Mount McKinley Conquered
Literary Digest; 47, July 5, 1913, pp. 7-8, ills.

Lloyd, Thomas
On the Roof of the American Continent
Daily Telegraph, London; June 6, 1910, p. 14, ills.
Dramatic Story of Thomas Lloyd
New York Times; Magazine Section, Jue 5, 1910, pp. 1-3,
ills.

Look
Conquest of a Mountain
Look; 11, New York, December 9, 1947, pp. 27-31, ills.

Maupin, Louis (Written under Arthur Evans Wilcox)
The Cat Beats the Dog Team-
Popular Mechanics; May 1945, pp. 14-16



52

at Ladd Field, Fairbanks, Alaska, at which Army chaplains repre-
senting the Catholic, Jewish, and Protestant faiths spoke briefly.
A military guard of honor fired a volley, which was followed by
the playing of taps. An Amy Transport Command airplane then
took off from Ladd Field and winged its way to the scene of the
crash, high in the rugged peaks of the Alaska Range. There three
floral wreaths were dropped over the snow-covered mountainside
where the bodies of the victims are buried beyond recovery» 30/


76

Lofty Ambitions Realized
Fairbanks, July 20, 1948, pe 1

Fairbanks Daily Times
Cheers are Given as Climbers Leave
Fairbanks, Dec. 22, 1909, pe 1, ills. of Stuck
Make Second Climb of Mount McKinley
Fairbanks, June 9, 1910, pe 3
This Climber Claims to be from Missouri .
Fairbanks, May 7, 1910, p. 1
McKinley is Conquered
Fairbanks, April 12, 1910, p. 1 .
Times Expedition Enroute McKinley
Fairbanks, Feb. 6, 1912, pe 1
Climbers are Safe at M'Kinley's Base
Fairbanks, Feb. 27, 1912, pp. 1 and 2
The Debt We Owe Them
Fairbanks, June 21, 1913, p. 2
Stuck Climbers Reach Summit of South Peak
Fairbanks, June 21, 1913, p. 1, ill.

Fairbanks Sunday Times
Times Party Sets Out to Scale Mt. M'Kinley
Fairbanks, Feb. 4, 1912, p. 1

Parquhar, Francis P.
The Explorations and First Ascents of Mt. McKinley
Sierra Club Bul.3 Vole 35, Noe 63 1950

Farquhar, Francis Po, and Ashley, Mildred P.
A List of Publications Relating to the Mountains of Alaska
American Alpine Club, 1934

Farrar, John Percy
Professor Parker's Attempt on Mount McKinley
Alpine Journal; 25:1933 August 1911; pp. 644-648

Farthest-North Collegian
Ue Ae Climbers Reach 16,500 on McKinley
College, Alaskas No. 25, duly 1947, pel
University Trio Climbs Mt. McKinley
College, Alaskas No. 25, Auge 1947, pe 1 .

Fay, Charles E,
Alpine Climbing in America -
Munsey's Magazines 243 March 1901, pp. 809-822, ills.
The World's Highest Altitudes and First Ascents
National Geo. Magazines 20:63 June 1909; pp.493-531, ills.

Forest ani Stream
The Mount McKinley National Park, a monument to the perse-
verance of two men and two famous outdoor organizations
Forest and Streams 87, April 19173; pe 171



e

17.

18.
19.
19a.
20.
21.
220

236

2he

256

26.
26a.
276
28.
296
30.
31.
32.
33.
3h.

Stuck, The Ascent of Denali, pp. 167-168, and from
conversations of Taylor, Anderson, McGonagall and
Karstens with Grant H. Pearson.

Information from Grant H. Pearson

Stuck, The Ascent of Denali, pp. 17-175.

Ibid., ppe 175-179.

Ibid.

Alaska, Transportation Book, pp. 283-28.

Capps, Stephen R., Alaska Railroad, Kantishna Region,
Alaska. Bulletin 687, U. S. Geological Survey.

Grant, Madison, "The Establishment of Mt. McKinley
National Park", in Boone and Crockett Club,
Hunting and Conservation, pp. 138-445.

Report of Director of the National Park Service to
Secretary of the Interior; 1923.

From park records and reports of Director,
National Park Service, to Secretary. of the Interior.

Ibid.

‘Ibid.

Ibid.

Ibid.

Tbid. and from diary of Grant H. Pearson.

Ibid.

From official records and Superintendents' reports.
Sierra Club Bulletin, December, 195.

From official files.

Ibid.

19
19
20
21
22
23

23

27

28

33
36
39
42
43
49
52
53
Su
5u
58



82

New York Times
Sumit Not Like Cook's Pictures
New York Times; April 14, 1910
Barril Says Cook Never on M'Kinley's Top
New York Times; October 15, 1909
Double Search on Mt. McKinley
New York Times; October 16, 1909
Comment on Dr. Cook
New York Times; October 16, 1909
McKinley Ascent is Now Questioned
New York Times; April 16, 1910
Mount McKinley, Three Weeks from New York
New York Times, Magazine Section; July 23, 1916
Alaska Peak Climb Aim of Harvard Men (Mt. Foraker)

Plane Sees Searchers for the Body of Koven
New York Times, August 11, 1932
Kovents Body Recovered
New York Times; Aug. 22, 1932
Expedition Planned to Settle Argument — Did Dr. Cook Climb
Mt. McKinley
New York World Telegram and Sun; April 14, 1950, ills.

Nilsson, Einar
Mt. McKinley Diary, Army Test Expedition, 1942
Sierra Club Bul.; Vol. 28, No. 3

Osgood, Wilfred H,
A Collection of Mammals from the Region of Mt» McKinley,
Alaska
Proc. of the Bio. Soo. of Wash.es 20, ppe 59-64,
April 18, 1907

Pan American Union
Mount McKinley National Park (English version of an article
appearing in the Spanish edition)
Bule of the Pan. Am. Union; April 1918, pp. 513-524, ills.

Parker, Herschel C.
The Exploration of Mt. McKinley. Is It the "Crest of the
Continent"?
Review of Reviews; 35, Jan. 1907, ppe 49-58, ills.
Our Expedition to Mr. McKinley
Metropolitan Magazines 33:33 Dec. 1910, pp. 279-291, ills.
Conquering Mt. McKinley: The Parker-Browne Expedition of 1912
Alpine Journal; 2722003 May 1913, pp. 189-195, ills.
Conquering Mt. McKinley
Appalachia; 13:13 June 1913, pp. 32-29, ills.
Conquering Mt. McKinley, the Parker~Browne Expedition of 1912
Canadian Alpine Journal, 1913, pp. 11-19, map, ills.



89

National Parks Portfolio

U. 8. Govt. Printing Office, 1931, pp. 225-226, ills.
Picturesque America - -

New York; Union Library Assoc., pp. 237-241, ills., map

young, Ed, and Crosson, Joseph
Mt. McKinley Conquered from Air
Fairbanks Daily News Miner; Aug. 31, 1931, pp. 1 and 5



59
Friends of the Park
Following is a list of friends of the park:

Horace Albright, New York City

Newton B. Drury, San Francisco, California

Acthyr E. Demaray, Washington, D. Co.

Governor Ernest Gruening, of Alaska

E. Le "Bob" Bartlett, Delegate to Congress from Alaska

University of Alaska

Sierra Club of California

Bradford Washburn, Director, Boston Museum of Science, Boston, Mass.

Eduardo de Maria y Campos, Chief of the Mexican Red Cross,
Expedition to Mount McKinley, Mexico, De Fo

aus Je Murie, Wilderness Society, Jackson, Wyoming

dolph Murie, Moose, Wyoming

Albert Day, Director, Fish and Wildlife Service, Washington, D. Co

Dr. Charles Brunnel, President Emeritus, University of
Alaska College, Alaska

dJessons Weekly Newspaper, Fairbanks, Alaska

Fairbanks News Miner, Fairbanks, Alaska

Duis Bolanger, Oregon State College, Corvallis, Oregon

Anchorage Daily Times, Anchorage, Alaska
vin Bramstedt, Manager, Radio Station KFAR, Fairbanks, Alaska

Auggie Hiebert, Manager, Radio Station KENI, Anchorage, Alaska

Clarence Rhodes, Regional Director, Fish and Wildlife Service,
Juneau, Alaska

Lowell Puckett, Regional Director, Bureau of Land Management,
Anchorage, Alaska

Frank Hientzleman, Regional Forester, U. S. Forest Service,
duneau, Alaska

John Reed, Director, Alaska Division, U. S. Geological Survey,
Washington, Do Ce

Anthony Dimond, District Federal Judge, Anchorage, Alaska

Lois and Herb Crisler, Walt Disney Studios, Hollywood, California



32
First Visitors

Many persons had travelled through the park on business to
the Kantishna mining district. The first to make a purely park
visit, howeverjWas Mr. W. F. Chandler, of Fresno, California,
who, during the summer of 1922 (date not know), accompanied the
Superintendent on one of his rounds to the base of Mount McKinley,
a distance of 85 miles. He was very much impressed with the wild~-
life and the vast bulk and majestic beauty of Mount McKinley. .

Other early visitors were Mr. W. N. Beach and George McM.
Godley of New York, who, on August 12, 1922, began an extended .
trip through the park to observe its interesting features and to
take motion pictures of the game. They travelled by saddle and
pack horses.

Donations
rs ,

Observing the great need for trails in the park, Mr. W. F.
Chandler kindly donated $1,000 to be expended for trail building.

Roads and Trails

The pioneer road was started on July 7, 1922, when Superinten-
dent Karstens, Ranger Powless, and two prospectors left base camp
(headquarters) at McKinley Park Station with a four-horse team to
pioneer a road into the park to the Savage River, a distance of
12 miles. This was accomplished in two days, and sufficient mater-
ial was hauled in to build a small supply cache on the Savage River.
Later the same year the park survey party hauled in their supplies
by wagon to that point.

All roads and trails in Mount McKinley National Park have been
constructed by the Alaska Road Commission. In 1922, a trail for
horses and hikers was located from McKinley Park Station to the foot
of Muldrow Glacier by way of Sable, Polychrome, and Thorofare Passes;
thence down the McKinley River to Wonder Lake and Kantishna. The *
trail was brushed out and confusing points tripoded. Small tents with
stoves were placed at 10-mile intervals for shelter, and mileposts
and signboards erected at important points,

In 1923, $5,000 was expended on an entrance road from McKinley
Park Station into the park. This was the start of the road which
now extends through the park to the north boundary near Wonder Lake.
This road, 89 miles in length, was completed and opened for travel
through the park in 1938. It continues beyond the park boundary for
a distance of 6 miles to the Kantishna mining district.

In 1926 a 12-mile-long stage coach road was started to the head
of Savage River from the Savage River Tourist Camp. Completed in
1927, this road was last used in 191 and is now impassable.



72

Brown, T. Graham
Mount Foraker
Alpine Journal 46, Nov. 19343 pp» 393-402, ills.
Mount Foraker, Alaska
Alpine Journal; 47, May 1935; ppe 14-48, ills., map
Mount Foraker, Alaska
Alpine Journals 47, Nov. 19353 pp. 205-243, ills.

Browne, Belmore . >
The Struggle up Mount McKinley
Outing Magazine; 50, June 1907; ppe 257-276, ills.
Struggling up Mount McKinley “
Collier's; 44, Nov. 13, 19093 pps. 18~19
The Parker Expedition to Mount McKinley
Bul. of the Am. Geo. Sooe3 42243 April 1980; pp.267-269
Sleuthing on Mt. McKinley. How the Parker~Browmme Expedition
Completed the Case Against Dr. Cook .
Metropolitan Magazine; 33:43 Jan. 19113 pp. 482-489, ills.
Scenic Wonderland Around McKinley
Mentor; 2sl+-11, December 1914, ills.
The Man that Reached the Top, a tribute to Hudson Stuck
Mentor, January 1921, ills.
By Motorboat to Mount McKinley
Outing Magazine, 52, March 1911; pp. 714=722, ills.
The Conquering of Mount McKinley
Hearst's Magazines 22, Dec. 1911, pp. 38-50, ills.
Conquering Mount McKinley - five articles in Outing Magazine
1. By Snowshoe and Dog Sledge Through the Alaske Lowlands
Quting Magazine; 61, Feb. 19133 pp. 515~530, ills.
2. Across an Unknown Pass with Alaskan Dog Teams
Outing Magazine; 61, March 1913; pp. 643-661, ills.
3. Scaling America’s Highest Peak
Outing wagazine; 62, April 19133 ppe 2-23, ills.
4. An Alaskan Happy Hunting Ground
Outing Magazine; 63, May 19133; pp. 194-209, ills.
5» Hitting the Home Trail from Mt. MeKinley
Outing Magazine; 63, July 19133 ppe 387-404, ills.
The Conquest of Mout McKinley
G. P. Putman's Sons; 1913, New York & London, 381 pages,
ills., map
A Plea for Mout McKinley National Park
Published and circularized by the Camp Fire Club of Am.,
The Boone and Crockett Club, Am. Game Protective Assoce,
New York, 1916, 10 pages (Also in appendix to the hear~
ing before the Committee on Territories, U. S» Senate, -
64th Congress, 1st Session, on S. 5716, May 5, 1916,
ppe 25-27, ills., map)
Remarks on the conquest of Mount McKinley
Proceedings of the National Parks Conference, Washington,
D. Oc, January 1917, ppe 2-6
Annual Report, Department of the Interior, National Park
Service, 1917, ppo 225-226



33

Trails included a saddle horse trail of 24 miles which was
built in 1932 through the Savage River Canyon, thus making
accessible a route to the northern boundary of the park, In
1939, a foot trail was built from the McKinley Park Hotel to
Horseshoe Lake, a distance of one-half mile, which made accessi-
ple to hikers a beautiful small mountain lake inhabited by
beavers, waterfowl and grayling. During the same year a foot
trail was started from Riley Creek in the McKinley Park Station
area to Triple Lakes, 5% miles of this trail were constructed,
but AES miles of trail are required for its completions

In the summer of 1950 a survey was made to connect the park
with the Paxson-Cantwell road, which will give the park a
connection with all the roads in Alaska and with the United States
over the Alaska Highway. In the summer of 1951 work was started
on this road. Only 63 miles of road construction in the park will
be required to connect this road with our main park road. The
main approach road is expected to be completed in 1953 or 195).

The first permanent bridge was built across Sagage River in
1951. It was of steel and concrete construction. 25,

Important Visitors

The year 1923 saw the arrival of the first official government
visitors. On June 7 a congressional party numbering 65 persons
spent one and one-half hours at McKinley Park Station. The Super-
intendent met this party and gave a short address on the park and
its needs, as well as a brief outline of his ascent of Mount
McKinley in 1913.

The presidential party of President Warren G. Harding, viumber-
ing 70 persons, also arrived at the entrance to the park and spent
a half hour mingling with the local people. Many inquiries were
made regarding the park and its needs.

The official dedication of the park took place in 1923. The
Brooklyn Daily Eagle party, numbering 70 persons, which was specially
‘organized as the result of an invitation from the Secretary of the
Interior to assist in the dedication of the park, was one of the
largest parties to visit Alaska. The formal dedicatory exercises
for the park were held on the occasion of their visit to the park
on July 9. Plans had been made to transport the party to Savage
River, at which point the dedication services were to have been
held, but because of the difficulties of the trip this plan was
abandoned and the ceremony was held at the entrance to the park.
The formal speech of dedication was made by William V. Hester, dro,
son of the President of the Brooklyn Daily Eagle, who declared
Mount McKinley National Park to be formally dedicated to its right-
ful owners, the people of the United States. Following the dedi-
cation a mountain sheep barbecue was served in the open air.



48

The Cosmic Ray Party

This ill-fated party, mentioned above, was organized by Allen
Carpe. He had been asked by Dr. Compton, of the University of
Chicago, to gather data for use in determining the nature of cosmic
rays. The University and the Carnegie Foundation supplied the
necessary apparatus and funds for getting the apparatus to Mount
McKinley, which had been selected because it met the requirements
of suitable elevation and proximity to the earth's north magnetic
pole. The members of this expedition were Carpe, Koven, Beckwith,
Percy Olten, and Spadavecchia.

To save time, this party planned on using ski-equipped air-
planes and landing on Muldrow Glacier opposite McGonagall Pass at
about 5,600 feet elevation. This was the first airplane landing
ever made on Mount McKinley (Muldrow Glacier), and this was pro-
bably the first expedition to make use of a plane carrying full
mountaineering equipment with the object of landing the climbers
at as high an altitude as possible preliminary to the final climb
on foot. Joe Crosson, veteran Alaskan pilot, was the pilot of
the first airplane to land on Mount McKinley.

Carpe, Koven and Beckwith landed on Muldrow Glacier on April 25,
while Beckwith returned to Fairbanks with Crosson. Olten,
Spadavecchia, and Beckwith then landed on the glacier on May 33 and
Carpe and Koven immediately moved to the head of the glacier at
11,000 feet elevation. The two parties never got together again.

No one returned at once to the camp at the head of the Muldrow
Glacier. Late in August, Merle LaVoy, who had been with the Parker-
Browne party of many years ‘before, Andy Taylor, George Pitiff, an
Alaskan trapper and prospector, and Grant Pearson, who served as
guide, went in to the camp to recover Koven's body and bring out the
diaries and cosmic ray measurement records of Carpe and Koven.

Seven feet of snow had fallen at 10,500 feet where Koven's body had
been since May 12. The sled was protruding only six inches above
the snow.

The following is a list of persons who have climbed Mount
McKinley:

South Peak North Peak

20,300 ft. 19,600 ft.
William Taylor 1910
Peter Anderson "
Walter Harper (1) June 6, 1913

Henry (Harry) Karstens (2) "own



van

(now Harper Glacier) and made a first attack upon the summit itself
from a camp at 17,000 feet. Within a short distance of the top,
they were overwhelmed and driven down, half frozen, by a blizzard
that suddenly arose. On July 1 another attempt was made, but the
clouds ascended and completely enveloped the party in a cold, wind-
driven mist, so that retreat to camp was again imperative. The
party could linger no longer, as food supplies were exhausted.
Disheartened, they broke camp and went down the mountain.

As it turned out, they were probably fortunate in having to
leave, because immediately after they reached their base camp a
terrible earthquake occurred which shattered the northeast ridge.

In the circumstances it is very doubtful if they would have been
able to negotiate the ridge safely. Probably, they would have been
overwhelmed and crushed to death instantly or have perished by star-
vation. This earthquake was caused by the eruption of Mount
Katmai. 1a/

Stuck-Karstens McKinley Expedition of 1913

A mountain is not climbed until its highest point has’ been
reached, In 1913 an expedition was organized by, Archdeacon Hudson
Stuck and Harry P. Karstens' to climb Mount McKinley.

Reverend Stuck was an Episcopal missionary arid had travelled
throughout the interio# of Alaska, both winter and summer, almost
continuously since 190. Seven years before his attempt to climb
Mount McKinley, he had written in The Spirit of of Missions of a
view of the mountain from Pedro Domé, in the neighborhood of
Fairbanks. Of it he said, "I would rather climb that mountain
than discover the richest gold mine in Alaska."

Stuck's partner in the venture was the same Harry Karstens who
was with Charles Sheldon in the Mount McKinley region in 1906, 1907,
and 1908. He couldn't have chosen a better all-around outdoor
Alaskan. The other two members were Robert G. Tatum of Tennessee,
just twenty-one years old, a postulant for holy orders, stationed at
the Episcopal Mission at Nenana, Alaska, and Walter Harper, who was
Archdeacon Stuck's attendant and interpreter. The latter was of
half-breed native stock, and twenty-one years olde The two Indian
dog drivers, Johnny, fourteen years old, and Esaias, fifteen, were
also from the Nenana Mission. Esaias went as far as base camp and
then went back to Nenana with one of the dog teams. Johnny was
with the expedition from start to finish, keeping the base camp
while the rest of the party were above.

While the party was camped at the foot of McGonagall Pass,
elevation 3,600 feet, they were overtaken by an Indian, his wife,
and chijd, who had come all the way from Lake Minchumina, perhaps
100 miles, to have the child baptized. It was generally known to
the natives of the region that the expedition was on foot, and
"Minchumina John," hoping to meet Archdeacon Stuck in the



51

The General insisted that a party of ) men, the nunber re~
quired for the job, go in and bring the bodies out. He asked
Acting Superintendent Pearson if he would organize and lead a
party to do this. Pearson agreed, but was noncommittal about
bringing the bodies out. He was ably assisted in organizing and
leading this expedition by Sgt. James Gale of the Search and
Rescue Squadron of Elmendorf Field. The services of Bradford
Washburn, the greatest authority on Alaska mountaineering, were
also secured for the expeditione He was then testing cold weather
equipment and food in that areas

This'was one of the most extraordinary and modern exploits in
the history of Alaska mountaineering. Every labor saving device
and the latest in modern equipment were used. Most of the supplies
were delivered by air-drop.e Portable radios were installed in
every camp, and modern snow tractors were used in transporting
supplies on part of the glacier.

On October 10, Pearson, Washburn, Gale and nine other men
crossed the Alaska Range and roped down a l5~degree slope to the
erash. Part of this distance was over an ice slope. This was
1,000 feet below where the party crossed the Alaska Range. Sup-
plies for a camp at the wreck had been dropped the previous day on
the bench where the wreckage, covered by 10 feet of snow, rested.

The next three days proved to be an unusual experience. The
party was camped less than 200 yards’ from the wreck and for the
next two days every effort possible was made to locate the bodies.
The airplane had crashed into the mountain 1,600 feet above camp
and tumbled end over end down a 50-degree slope. The port engine
was embedded firmly in the ice far above the point of impact.

By November 13, everything possible had been done to locate
the bodies, with no success. Every major part of the airplane had
been discovered and excavated, yet not one single trace of the
oceupants, except some blood on one piece of the fuselage, had been
found. Several items, including the co-pilot's personal canvas
suitease ~ the familiar Bel, bag, were dug out of a drift near the
remains of the cabin of the airplane.

Washburn, Gale, Sgt. Richard C. Manual and Pvt. Elmo G. Fenn
investigated the area near the motor and then continued on to the
summit of the mountain, now named Mystery Mountain. This was the
the first party to accomplish this feat.

The expedition, including organizing, took 3 days, 25 days
of which were spent above timber line on sow and ices

‘members. of the expedition returned safely. There were no injuries.

The final postscript to this tragic accident took place in
January,19)5, when a meworial service for the men was conducted



APPENDIX A
HISTORY OF MOUNT McKINLEY NATIONAL PARK

(From Boone and Crockett Club, Hunting and Conservation,
New Haven, 1925, pp. 520-526)

A detailed abstract of correspondence and summary of events as
to this Park may be useful to some future student of our National .
Parks.

Letter

1. H. P. Karstens, Fairbanks, Alaska, to H. M. Albright,
Washington, D. C., July 25, 1918.

"While I worked for Sheldon as guide, perhaps in 1906,

he suggested that the country on Toklat River would make
a fine park and game preserve." Names people still in
the Kantishna country who know Sheldon wished to set that
country aside for a park.

2. ©. Sheldon, Woodstock, Vermont, to E. W. Nelson, Washington, ©
D. C., October 10, 1915.

Believes time now ripe to push through Congress bill to
establish Denali National Park, Denali (Mount McKinley)
to be its center. Plans contemplated.

3. Hon. James Wickersham, Washington, D. C., to C.Sheldon,
New York, December 8, 1915.

Acknowledges letter of December 3, suggesting Mt. McKinley
Park, Doubtful about the matter because it might inter-
fere with prospectors. (Sheldon's reply suggests bill be
so framed as to remove Wickersham's objections. )

4. Wickersham, Washington, D. C. to Sheldon, New York, January 3,
1916.

Promises careful attention to McKinley Park bill when
put in shape by Mr. Mather and others.

5. Henry G. Gray, Secretary, Boone and Crockett Club, New York,
to C. Sheldon, New York, December 21, 1915. -

Transmits resolution of Boone and Crockett Club, endorsing
Mt. McKinley National Park project and appointing Sheldon
and Grant committee to do various things and to advocate
the plan as the plan of the Boone and Crockett Club.



HISTORY OF MOUNT McKINLEY NATIONAL PARK

CONTENTS

Geographical Setting... 1. eee ee ee
Aboriginal History of the Area. ......
Indian Legends . 2s 1 ee ee ee ee eee
Coming of the White Man « .. se ee eae
Expeditions to Climb Mount McKinley ....
The Pioneer Ascent . - ess ee eee eee
Parker~Browne McKinley Expedition of 1910 .
The Cairns Expedition of 1912 ...+ sae.
Parker-Browne McKinley Expedition of 1912 ..
Stuck-Karstens McKinley Expedition of 1913

Transportation . « . 6 ee ee ee ee ee
The Establishment of Momt McKinley National
Early Administration . . 2. 2 26 e+e eee
First Ranger. + + 0 ee ee ec ee ee eee
Boundary. Changes. «2 0 es ee ee ee we
First Visitors « «es. 2 ee ee ee ee
Donations . 2 + 60 6 ee ee ee te ee
Roads and Trails «6 +. es eee eee ee
Important Visitors... 1. 0 ee ee ee
Concessioners «+ + 6 ee ee tet eens
Early Inns ma Hotels and their Keepers . .
Flora and Fama . 2... + s+ se ee eee

Wildlife . 2.6 2 2 ses eee eee eee

How

n

18
18
20
20
20

23
2h
28
28
30
30
32
32
33
36
37
ho
ho



ho
Flora and Fauna
Wildlife

As previously mentioned, Charles Sheldon made the first study
of wildlife in this area. The first report published was in 1907
when Dr. Wilfred H. Osgood reported Mr. Sheldon's collections in
the Proceedings of the Biological Society of Washington, Vol. XX,
pages 59-60. This was the first printed matter concerning the
wildlife of this area except for Dr. Brooks' mention of sheep and
earibou in his report of 1903.

In the Auk, Vol. XXVI, No. 1, January 1909, Sheldon reported
on 62 species of birds observed during 1907-08 on the upper Toklat
River. Later publications indicate that 30 geographic races of
mammals were encountered by Mr. Sheldon in the McKinley region
between 1906 and 1908.

Biologist Claus J. Murie of the U. S. Biological Survey made
some wildlife studies in Mount McKinley National Park from November
1920 to January 1921, and again from July 3, 1922, to September 26,
1922, being accompanied part of the time by his brother Adolph.
Their purpose was to reconnoiter for a place to capture caribou
for scientific studies, and they again visited the park from June
27, 1923, to October 5, 1923, on the caribou-capturing project.

In 1923, 0. J. Murie found the first known nest of the wander-
ing tattler, which he located near Savage River. His account of
this discovery was published in 192) in the Auk, Vol. XXXXI,
pages 231-237.

Field work was carried on in Mount McKinley National Park in
1926 by Joseph Dixon and George Wright from the Museum of Verte~
brate Zoology of the University of California. Both of these
scientists were biologists of the National Park Service. They
spent 72 days in the field in 1926, during which they traversed
a distance of approximately 500 miles on foot. The first surf
bird's nest and eggs were found by them on May 28, 1926. The nest
was 1,000 feet above timber line on a rocky ridge with a southern
exposures

Dixon returned to the park on May 15, 1932, and remained
until September 1, 1932, studying the birds and mammals. The find-

ings of these two expeditions were published in 1938 in the
Fauna of the National Parks of the United States, Birds and Mammals

of Mount McKinley National Park, Fauna Series No. 3.



38

During the start of construction of the Alaska Railroad, Dan
Bane built a roadhouse and trading post near Windy Creek in the
southeast corner of the park. He sold it to a Mr. Gilkey who, in
turn, sold it to John Stevens in 1925. Stevens operated it until
he died in 1935. His trade included trappers and prospectors,
and he outfitted miners who were living in the Valdez Creek area
60 miles east of the. railroad.

In 1925, Duke E. Stubbs located a fox farm and trading post
site of 35 acres near McKinley Park Station. There he operated
a store where he sold groceries and supplies until 1936 when he
left Alaska. Stubbs later sued the government for depriving him
of a living when his property was included in Mount McKinley
National Park. He was awarded $50,000.

In 1918, John Anderson and Paula Anderson entered the park
from the Cook Inlet side travelling by dog team. They crossed
the Alaska Range via Anderson Pass (named after Pete Anderson).
In 1922, when the McKinley Park-Kantishna trail was completed,
they built a log roadhouse on the north end of Wonder Lake and
staked a 160-acre homestead which later they proved up one This
roadhouse was used as a stopping place for travellers going to
and from the Kantishna mining district. All the framework for
the chairs, tables and other furniture was made from caribou
antlers.

In addition to operating the roadhouse, they raised fox in
captivity. They also raised sled dogs for sale. John Anderson
did some prospecting and trapping. Their homestead, taken into
the park during the boundary extension in 1932, was bought by
the National Park Service in 192.

All of the above-mentioned properties were taken into the
park by the boundary, extension in 1932. 26a/



18.

196

20.

2026

2le

22.

236

2h.

63

Is drafting bill. Asks for description of boundaries;
says Belmore Browne was down there for a few days after
S. was in Washington.

Sheldon, New York, to Riggs, Washington, D. Ce, January 13,
1916.

Sends description of boundaries, hopes park may be called
Denali. Talked with Browne day before; suggestions as to
securing Wickersham's approval.

Memorandum attached. Penciled notes of the limits of the
park drawn by Ce Sheldon and by him sent to Riggs,
January 15, 1916.

Riggs, Washington, to Sheldon, New York, January Us, 1916.
Acknowledges memorandum of boundaries, encloses rough
draft of bill, believes McKinley better known name than
Denali, decides not to say anything about game refuges
advocated by Belmore Browne.

Copy of the bill drafted by Riggs and sent to Sheldone

Sheldon, New York, to Riggs, Washington, D. C., January 15,
1916.

Suggests certain changes in the bill.

Riggs, Washington, D. C., to Sheldon, New York, January 17,
1916.

Acknowledges letter of January 15 and believes the sug-
gested changes should be made.

Sheldon to Riggs, January 25, 1916.
Asking as to progress of the matter and promising to go
to Washington with others when Riggs is ready for a
conferences

Riggs to Sheldon, January 26, 1916.
Will notify you.TM

Riggs to Sheldon, January 28, 1916.

Detail as to the bill. Memorandun from Browne acknow=
ledging receipt of something.



8

started overland with a pack-horse train carrying their supplies.
As guides, they had Susitna Indians, Stepan and Slinkta. Their
route was over 100 miles due west of Yanert's route.

On July 22, they crossed the crest of the divide of the
Alaska Range and started down the other (north) side of the water-
shed. East of the divide, the drainage is into the Bering Sea.

He reported hundreds of mountain sheep high in the mountains in
the vicinity of what he called Simpson Pass.

On July 28, after exhausting all their arguments to persuade
him to turn back, Slinkta and Stepan, theretofore faithful and
energetic, slipped out of camp, deserted, and went back to the
coast. There being no other Indians in that section of the coun-
try at the time, the loss of the natives was a serious blow to the
expedition.

After encountering a deserted Indian village on the
Chedotihothno River, a tributary of the Kuskokwim, the whites were
able to cut a trail through the forest. The horses became weak
from hunger and were fed part of the food meant for human consump-
tion. Finally the Indians found them and helped them to their
village at Telida. There the expedition went into camp for two
months, where they waited for winter travel. While there, they
prepared winter clothing and procured snow shoes from the Indians.
During their stay at this village the members of the party hunted
and explored in the surrounding country, brought in their caches
and moose meat, and as far as possible, learned all the Indians
knew. Their food during this period was chiefly moose, bear,
beaver, fish and tea.

On November 25, with four Indians as guides, the expedition
resumed its exploration of the last 171 miles on snow shoes, cut-
ting and blazing the trail and mapping the country as before.
They reached the junction of the Tenana and Yukon Rivers about
3230 P. Me, December 11, 1899, having travelled a total of over
1,000 miles. Among important accomplishments was the rediscovery
of a second great mountain of the Alaska Range, 17,000 feet high,
which they named Mount Foraker after Joseph Foraker, an Ohio poli-
tician. In addition, from the vicinity of Lake Minchumina the
party had made a sketch map of the entire range. This map was .
part of their official report. As far as the records go,
Lieutenant Herron's party were the first white men to cross from
Cook's Inlet via the Alaska Range to the Yukon River. Lla/ ¥

The northern face of the Alaska Range and the base of Mount
McKinley yet remained to be explored, and this was the task as-
signed to Dr. Alfred Brooks as part of the general system of the
exploratory surveys being unflertaken by the U. S. Geological Survey
in Alaska. :



50

List of persons who have climbed Mount McKinley (concl'd):

South Peak North Peak
20,300 ft 19,600 ft
Capt. Wm. Hackett (3rd ascent) July 12; 1952
Robert Anderson (3h) noon "
Robert Goodwin (35) " " a .
Ernst Bauman (36) "on " .
Mexican Red Cross Party (First party of foreigners to ascend
Mount McKinley) : .
Eduardo de Maria Canpos (37) duly 1k,. 1952
er i"

Cristobal Abarea Alvares (38)

Guillermo Garcia Colin (39) 8 "
Agustin Guerrero Dias (0 non "
Higinio Alvarado Reyes (11) «oom tt
Eduardo San Vicente Cravioto (2) not "

Army C-l7 Crash Expedition

On September 18, 19h, an Army Transport. C-)? airplane, ona
routine flight from Anchorage to Fairbanks, Alaska, crashed irito
an ice-and-snow-covered mountain peak (about 12,000 feet elevation),
16 miles east of Mount McKinley. This was in the unexplored and
unmapped area of Mount McKinley National Park.

An aerial reconnaissance revealed that all nineteen persons
aboard the airplane had perished and the aircraft itself was com-
pletely demolished after tumbling down a fifty-degree slope for
1,600 feet.

In order to: detexmine the details of what clearly appeared to
be a totally fatal crash, the Commanding General of the Alaskan
Department, U. S. Army, asked Grant H. Pearson, Acting Superin-
tendent of Mount McKinley National Park, to make an aerial flight
to the scene of the erash and advise if it was possible to take
a party of men to it. The air turbulence was so violent it re-
quired three trips before a thorough inspection could be made.
This was October 2, fifteen days after the crash- -

When asked by the General if men could be taken to the crash
on foot, Pearson advised that the crash could be gotten to safely, .
and recommended that a party of four men, for which ‘equipment was
available immediately, go to the crash and.try.to find the bodies
before snow covered them entirely. The crash was on the southern.
slopes of the Alaska Range in a heavier snow belt than the northern
slopes.



56
First School

The first public school in McKinley National Park was during
1922-1923 and 1923-192). Mrs. Dave Firburn was the teacher and
seven children attended. A log school house was built by the early
settlers. The location of this school was near the location of the
present hotel at McKinley Park station.

First Commercial Moving Picture Filmed in the Park

Norman Dawn filmed part of the scenes for the moving picture
The Chechako in the park during the winter of 1922- 23. Moreno's
Foadhouse and the Park Service dog teams were used in some of the
scenes.

First Death Caused by Shooting

John Bernard, an old-timer living in the McKinley Park Station
area, was shot and killed in the fall of 1923 when prohibition offi-
cers and the U. S. Marshal made a raid on a bootlegger's cabin.
This cabin was located near the banks of the Nenana River opposite
mile 34 on the Alaska railroad.

Commercial Mining of Coal

A coal mine (lignite coal) was operated near mile 30 on the
Alaska Railroad in 1923. Mine buildings were erected (they are
still visible), but after a few months of operation this mine
ceased operation due to the coal being of inferior quality. This
mine was operated by a Mr. Seaberge

In 1922 fifteen tons of blacksmith-coal were mined on Little
Creek, a tributary of Riley Creek.

First Article

An article by Hal Evarts, published in 1926 in the Saturday
Evening Post, was the first written about Mount McKinley National
Park. MY. Evarts made a trip with saddle and pack horses to the
base of Mount McKinley to get material for this article.

The above information was given to the author by former -
Chief Ranger Fritz A. Nyberg, and confirmed by former Superintendent
Harry P. Karstens.

Citations

In February 1940, Tige, a park sled dog, was awarded the Dog
World International Diploma of Honor for saving the life of Park
Ranger John C. Rumohr. Rumohr and his deg team and sled had broken
through the ice on Toklat River into six feet of water. The



10

the "Herron Glacier’, in honor of Joseph S. Herron, our
predecessor in the exploration of the upper Kuskokwim
basins A short scramble through the underbrush brought
me to the front of the moraine, which stretched like a
eyclopean wall across the valley. Climbing to the top,
I surveyed the mass spread before me, very like the pre-
liminary dumping ground of a railway excavation. It was
a striking scene and an unusual one, for a newly formed
moraine is the exception in land forms. Nature in the
sculptoring delights in rounded and symmetrical outlines
and it is only when the forces of erosion have not had
time to do their molding that such a crude, unfinished
surface is exposed to view. It is, so to speak, the raw +
material which streams and rains will carve into beauti-

ful rounded topography, and then vegetation, Nature's

decorative artist, will clothe with greens of various hues.

"Two days later (August 3) we made our nearest camp to
Mount McKinley in a broad, shallow valley incised in the
piedmont plateau and drained by a stream which found its
source in ice clad slopes of the high mountains. We
reached the base of the peak, and a part of our mission
was accomplished, with a margin of six weeks left for com-
pletion. This bade us make haste, for we must still tra-
verse some 00 miles of unexplored region before we could
hope to reach even the outposts of civilization. Notwith-
standing all of this, we decided to allow ourselves one
day's delay, so that we might actually set foot on the
slopes of the mountain. The ascent of Mount McKinley had
never been part of our plans, for our mission was explora-
tion and surveying, not mountaineering, but it now seemed
very hard to us that we had neither time nor equipment to
attempt the mastery of this highest peak of the continent.

"The next morning (August h, 1902) dawned clear and
bright. Climbing the bluff above camp, I overlooked part
of the valley, spread before me like a broad amphitheater,
its sides formed by the slopes of the mountain and its
spurs. Here and there glistened in the sun the white sur-
faces of glaciers which found their way down from the peaks
above. The great mountain rose 17,000 feet above our camp,
apparently almost sheer from the flat valley floor. Its
dome~shaped summit and upper slopes were white with snow,
relieved here and there by black areas which marked cliffs
too steep for the snow to lie upon.

4 two hours! walk across the valley, through several
deep glacial streams, brought me to the very base of the
mountain. As I approached, the top was soon lost to view;
the slopes were steep, and I had to scramble as best_I
could, Soon all the vegetation was left behind me, and my



A HISTORY OF
MOUNT McKINLEY NATIONAL PARK

ALASKA

by
Grant H. Pearson
Superintendent

UNITED STATES DEPARTMENT OF THE INTERIOR
National Park Service

1953



31

Ranger Patrol Along Riley Creek, 192k

Frite A. Nyberg, First Chief Ranger of Mount NeKinley National Park, 1924-1931



73

Browne, Belmore
The Mount McKinley National Park
Scribner's Magazine; 62, Oct. 1917; ppe- 299-410, ills.
Herschel Clifford Parker, biographical sketch
American Alpine Journal; 6, 1947, pp. 408-411

Cairns, Ralph H.
. Unable to Scale Heights of Mighty Mt. M'Kinley, Climbing
Party Returns
Fairbanks Daily Times; April 10, 1912, pp. 1-2
Hazards of Climbing Mount McKinley
Overland Monthly; TS. 61, Feb. 1913; pp. 107-123

Callison, I.-P.
Wolves and Coyote Menace Alaska Game
Alaska Life, June, 1941, Vol. 9, No. 6
Wolf Predation in the North Comtry
’ I. P. Callison, Lloyd Building, Seattle 1, Washe,
89 pages

Capps, Stephen R.
Glaciation of the Alaska Range
Journal of Geology; 20, July-Aug. 1912; pp. 415-437,
ills., map
A Game Country Without Rival in America, The Proposed
Mt. McKinley uN.’ P. °
National Geographic Magazine; 31, Jan. 1917; pp» 69-84,
ills.
Remarks on the Mount McKinley National Park
Proceedings of the National Parks Conference, Washo
Deo, Jano 2-6, 1917
Annual Report, Dept. of Interior, Natl Park Service,
Wash. DCo, 1917, pp. 226—242
The Bastern Portion of Mt. McKinley National Park
Uo S. Geo. Survey; Bul. 836, 1930, pp. 219-300
Mineral resources of the Western Talkeetna Mountains
Ue S. Geo. Survey; Bul. 692, 1919, pp. 187©205, map
The Toklat Tozona River region
U. Se Geo. Survey; Bul. 792, ppe 73~110, maps
Glaciation in Alaska 7
Uo So Geo. Suryey; Prof. Paper No. 170, pp. 1-8
fhe Geology of the Alaska Railroad Region
Uo So Geo. Survey; Bul. 907

Carpe, Allen
In Memoriam; Allen Carpe, 1894-1932 (W. S. Ladd & Howard Palmer)
American Alpine Journal; 1:4; 1932, pp. 507-511, portrait

Carpenter, Frank G.
Mount McKinley
Alaska, Doubleday, Page, pp. 281-288, ills., biblioge,
index



19

carried on toward the upper glacier. This was the highest point
that Lloyd reached. On April 3, Taylor, Anderson and McGonagall
set out about two in the morning with great, home-made climbing
irons strapped to their moccasins and homemade, hooked pike~poles
in their hands. Disdaining the rope and cutting no steps, it was
“every man for himself" j.with reliance solely upon the crampons.
They went up the ridge to Grand Basin to about 15,500 feet, crossed
the glacier (now Harper Glacier) to the ridge that leads to the
north peak, and proceeded to climb it, carrying with them a Us-foot
spruce flagstaff which was about four inches in diameter at the
bottome

Ab about 16,000 feet elevation, McGonagall did not go any
higher but returned to the glacier at approximately 15,500 feet to
wait for the return of Anderson and Taylor. The latter two, after
climbing to what they estimated as 19,000 feet, had had enough for
the day, so they left the spruce pole and rejoined MeGonagall. ALL
of them then returned to their 12,000 foot camp on the ridges

After resting two days, Anderson and Taylor started out again,
leaving McGonagall and Lloyd in camp. From 19,000 feet they took
the pole to the last rocks on the ridge, where they guyed it with
ropes brought along for that purpose. As the summit of the north
peak is several hundred feet higher than the last rocks, they con~
tinued to the summit. Having a camera with them, they then exposed
some film on the summit. Pictures of the pole were also taken.

On their descent, Taylor rested at 15,500 feet, while Anderson
went up the upper glacier toward the south peak (true summit) to a
point between the peaks at 18,160 feet. After returning to Taylor,
they descended to their ridge campo

Taylor has said the reason why they put the pole on top of the
north peak was because they thought it could be seen from Fairbanks
through a telescope. It was believed at that time that the north
peak was the higher of the two peaks and the real summite

Lloyd returned to civilization ahead of the rest of the party,
while Anderson, Taylor, and McGonagall returned to their base camp.
After Lloyd sent word in with one of the miners that the pictures
taken were no good, Anderson, Taylor, and McGonagall went back up
the mountain and took another set of pictures. Some of these were
later printed in the New York Times with thes-tory. of the climb. 1i/

It can be said that this first ascent was unique and one of
the greatest feats of mountain climbing ever accomplished, especially
when it is realized that these men were inexperienced and there was
a lack of proper food and equipment. ‘The party was discredited to
some extent when Lloyd returned to Fairbanks ahead of the rest and
made the statement that all of them had reached the top of the porta
peak. Only Taylor and Anderson had accomplished this feat. 18/



NATIONAL PARK SERVICE
ROUTING SLIP

Wi

DIRECTOR WIRTH
Office of the Chief Counsel
Assistant to the Director
Mrs. Benson

LITT

ASSISTANT DIRECTOR TOLSON (Administration)
Audit Branch
“Fiscal Branch
Office Services Branch’
Personnel Branch
Safety Branch

ASSISTANT DIRECTOR ALLEN (Operations)
Concessions Management Branch
Conservation and Protection Branch
Lands Branch
Programs. and Plans Branch

Man)

Chief Architect

Sages)
Chief Landscape Architect ota

Chief Engineer

HLL

CHIEF OF INTERPRETATION R. F. LEE
History Branch
information Branch
Museum Branch
Natural History Branch

1

CHIEF OF COOPERATIVE ACTIVITIES THOMPSON
Area Investigations Branch
River Basin Studies Branch
State Cooperation Branch

NATIONAL CAPITAL PARKS

MESSAGE

2-54.

A). & [Ce4lee-

(Date)

(Name)

TET



88

Wells, F. G.
Lode Deposits of Eureka and Vicinity, Kantishna District
Investigations in the Alaska RR Belt, 1931, U. S. G. Se,
Bul, 849-F, 1933, pp. 335-379, maps

Wickersham, James
The First Attempt to Ascend Mount McKinley
Valdez, 1903, Oct. 2, 23 sheets
The Creation of Denali (Mount McKinley) by Yako, the
Athabaskan Adam
Alaska Magazine, 1, Jan. 1927, Juneau, pp. 1-10, ills.
A Bibliography of Alaskan Literature, 1724-1924
College, Alaska, Alaska Agri. College and School of
Mines, 1927
Old Yukon, Tales, Trails and Trials
Washington Law Book Co., 1938, pp. 203-320, ills., map

Winchester, J. We
Dr. Cook -- Faker
The Pacific Monthly, 25, March 1911, pp. 251-256, ills.

Wood, Joh W.
Hudson Stuck, Missionary and Pioneer
The Living Church, 63, Milwaukee, 0ct.23,1920, pp.857-8

Wright, George M., Dixon, Joseph S., snd Thompson, Ben He
Fauna of Mount McKinley National Park, in their
Fauna of the National Parks of the U. Se
Dept. of Int., Nat'l Park Serv., Fauna Series No. 1,
1933, ppo 47, 49, 50, 141-146

Winton, Daniel
Our New National Park
Tllustrated Worlds 28, Dec. 1917, p» 614

Yanert, Sergeant William
A Trip to the Tana River
Compilation of Narratives of Explorations in Alaska,
Senate Report 1023, 1st Session, 56th Congress,
Washo, De. C., 1900, pp. 677-679

Yard, Robert Sterling

Mt. McKinley, an Economic Asset
In appendix to hearing before the Committee on Terri-
tories, U. S, Senate, 64th Congress, 1st Session, on
S. 5716, May 5, 1916, pp. 27-28

The Book of the National Parks
New York; Charles Scribner's Sons, 1919, pp. 118-131,
ills., map

National Parks Portfolio
U. S. Govt. Printing Office, 1928, pp. 233-235, ills.



43

During the next six years funds were appropriated and, with
the help of rangers, nine additional ranger patrol cabins were
built, making a total of 15. A temporary garage and machine
shop and a boiler and log power house were also built. In 1935,
a modern Ranger Club (bachelors! quarters), a log residence, a
dog corral, and a cold storage garage were completed.

In 1937 construction was started on a tourist hotel accommo-
dating 172 people at McKinley Park Station. This was completed
and opened for business in June 1939.

With: the establishment of a CCC camp in 1938 and 1939, two
additional residences were built and headquarters sewer and
water systems improved. The dog corral was moved to a new
location and a modern machine shop and garage was built. Roads
in the headquarters area were improved and some landscaping was
donee

Construction was started in 1941 on a residence to replace
the Superintendent's residence which was destroyed by fires
This was completed in 193, and a modern ranger station was
completed at Wonder Lake in 1939.

During the war years no new construction was undertakene
However, a log garage was converted into an administration
building and the log office building used as a workship for
the naturalist. Horses are no longer kept by the Park Service
and the barn has been converted into a carpenter shop.

In 1949 a temporary residence was built from a CCC infirmary,
and in 1950-52 four new modern residence were built in the head~
quarters area and a new water system completed for the head~
quarters areas


23

Mr. Burnham, the bill was finally reached in the House and
passed with some small amendments on February 19, 19176

"On the next day the Senate, which had already passed
the bill, concurred in the amended House bill. After the
necessary formality of obtaining the signature of the
Secretary of the Interior, the bill, establishing Mount
McKinley National Park, was personally taken from the office
of the Secretary fo the White House by Charles Sheldon on
February 24, 1917. On February'26, 1917, the President of
the United States signed it and presented to Mr. Sheldon the
pen with which he had affixed his signature.

"Eleven years had elapsed from the conception of
Mount Me: ey National Park to the actual signing of the
bill." 23



36
Concessioners

Early in 1923, Dan Kennedy was issued a permit to operate a
tourist concession in the park. An old-time Alaskan, he had for
many years operated a pack and saddle horse guiding service for
big game hunters who came to Alaska in search of trophies. His
permit called for three camps to be established, extending 50
miles into the park from the railroad. The first and only camp
to be established was located near Savage’ River, 12 miles from the ~
railroad. Because of the difficulty of travel by saddle and pack
horses and the primitive acconodations available, all except the .
most hardy visitors were deterred from making the park trip. The a
number of persons actually to make it in 1923 was 3h.

Dan Kennedy continued to operate the park concessions until
the summer of 1925, when he sold his outfit to the newly organized
Mount McKinley Tourist and Transportation Company. This company,
organized by Mr. James Galen, President, with Robert E. Sheldon,
Manager, replaced the horse transportation system between the vail-
road and their Savage River camp with modern automobiles.

The Mount McKinley Tourist and Transportation Company, which
handled all concessions in the park until 1939, developed their
concessions to keep pace with the increase in travel and extended
their automobile sight-seeing trips as the park road progressed
further into the park. Their Savage River camp was their main
base of operations. They met all trains with cars and busses and
transported the visitors 12 miles to that camp. There they had
30 horses. A rough mountain road, developed to the head of Savage
River, a distance of 12 miles, was used by horse-drawn stages,
which made this an all-day trip into the mountains. The main
feature of this trip was the wildlife, as moose, grizzly bear,
caribou, mountain sheep and many varieties of small wildlife could
usually be seens

In 1937, $350,000 was appropriated to build a tourist hotel
‘at McKinley Park Statiqn. Completed and opened for business in
June 1939, it was operated by the Alaska Railroad and used asa
base of operations. People who arrived in the park on the train
would stay overnight at the hotel, and then make a sight-seeing
trip into the park by car or bus. The Mount McKinley Tourist and
Transportation Company handled the transporting of the tourists
and operated Savage River Tourist Canp. One unit was moved
66 miles'out in the park and was operated as an'overnight stop
for tourists. Named Camp Eielson, it was 28 miles airline from
Mount McKinley.

In 191, the government bought out the Mount McKinley Tourist
and Transportation Company, and the Alaska Bayiroad has operated
all tourist concessions from that time one 26,



86

Tatum, Robert Ge
Ascending the Steep Roof of the Continent Just to "Look out
the Windows of Heaven". Interview by John T. Mowtoux
Knoxville, Ten.» News Sentinel; Sec. C, May 22, 1932,
ppe 1, 8

Thompson, W. F.
First Account of Conquering Mt. McKinley
New York Times, Magazine Sece; June 5, 1910, p. 1, ills.

Thorington, J. Monroe
Frederick Albert Cook (1865-1940)
The American Alpine Journal,6, New York, 1946, pp. 86-88
Herschel Clifford Parker (1867-1944)
The American Alpine Journal, 6, New York, 1946, pp. 109-111

Tolson, Hillory A.
Laws Relating to the National Park:Service, the National Parks
and Monuments
U. S. Govt. Printing Office; 1933, ppe 200-204

U. S. Congress
A Bill to Establish the Mount McKinley National Park in the
Territory of Alaska
Hearing before the Committee on the Public Lands, House
of Repe, 64th Cong., Ist Session, on H. R. 14775, May 4, 1916
A Bill to Establish the Mount McKinley National Park in the
Territory of Alaska
Hearing before the Committee on Territories, U. S. Senate,
64th Congress, lst Session, on 8. 5716, May 5, 1916,
22 pages
An Act to Establish the Mount McKinley National Park in the
Territory of Alaska
64th Congress, 2nd Session, S. 5716, approved Feb. 26, 1917
An Act to Add Certain Lands to Mount McKinley National Park,
Alaska
67th Congress, No. 133, approved Jan. 30, 1922
A Bill to Repeal the Last Proviso of Section 7 of “An Act to
Establish the Mount McKinley National Park in the Territory
of Alaska."
Hearing before the Committee on Territories, House of Rep.,
70th Cong., lst Session, on He R. 8126, approved Feb. 26,
1927, 5 pages

U. S. National park Service
Bibliography of Books, Government Reports and Magazine Articles
on Mount McKinley National Park
Report of the Director of the National park Service,
1917, pp. 243-244
Remarks and Reports on Mount MoKinley National Park
Report of the Director of National Park Service, 1917 to
1951 annual reports



Kantishna, and missing him, had followed their trail. Archdeacon
Stuck*baptized the baby and after he was through, Minchumina John
said, "Now will you marry us?" [Reference to marrying Minchumina
John is from an article by Hudson Stuck in “Spirit of Missions",
LXXIX, New York, January 191), pages 17-25, ten photographs./
This was the first person baptized in what is now Mount McKinley
National Park.

This expedition climbed to the peak of the true summit. The .
total elapsed time from the time they got on the glacier until they
left it was 53 days. The northeast ridge (now named Karstens Ridge)
was shattered to such an extent that the party practically had to .
carve a staircase for three miles. This is where Karstens' know-
how and ingenuity were valuable.

The party saw the flagpole on the north peak which the Sourdough
party had guyed in the last rocks. Harper was the first to see it.
One by one, with the aid of field glasses, the others also saw it,
thus confimning the previous ascent of the adjacent peak.

On their return they cached a minimum thermometer, graduated
down to 95 below zero, at what Stuck called the 15,000 foot eleva-
tion. It was cached in some rocks which would be easy to find if
another party ascended the mountain; and in a tin can that had con-
tained photographic film, they left a record of their ascent.

This climb was the first accredited ascent of the south peak,
which is the true summit of Mount McKinley. Harper was leading on
the rope that day and was the first person to stand on the summit of
Mount McKinley. He was closely followed by Karstens, Tatum, and
Stuck, in the order named. 20/


87

Mount McKinley National Park (booklet)
19273; 20 pages, ill., maps
1929; 27 pages, ills., maps, bibliography
1930-1940; 30 pages, ills., maps, bibliography
1940-1952; 16 pages, ills., map, rules and regulations

Vancouver, Capt. George
A Voyage of Discovery to the North Pacific Ocean and Round
the World .
Londons 1798, 111 pages, first record of Mckinley

Vidal, Numa F. \
Who Climbed Mount McKinley
Saturday Evening Post, Feb. 18, 1950, pp. 30, 51, 77,
79, 80, 81, 83, ills.

Wahrhaftig, Clyde, Hicticox, ©. A., and Freedman, Jacob
€oal Deposits on the Healy and Lignite Creeks, Nenana Coal

Field, Alaska
U. S. Geological Survey; Bul. 963-B, 1951

Washburn, Bradford

Over the Roof of Our Continent
The Nat'l Geographic Mago, 74, July, 1938, pp. 78-985
ills., map

Three Seasons in Alaska
Harvard Mountaineering; 5, Cambridge, Dec. 1939, pp. 20-24

Note to the Editor :
Appalachia; 24, Boston, June, 1943, pp. 398-399, ills.

Washburn, Bradford

Personal Equipment; Special Requirements of the Army Air Force
The American Alpine Joumal, 6, New York, 1946, pp. 235-243,
ills. :

Mount McKinley from the North and West
The American Alpine Journal; 6, New York, 1947, pp. 283-293,
ills. °

Operation White Tower
The American Alpine Journal, 7, New York, April 1948,
pp. 40-58, ill. ~

Mapping Mount McKinley
Scientific Americen; 130, New York, Jan: 1949, pp. 46-51,
ills., map

The Practical Igloo
Canadian Geographical Journal, 39, Ottawa, Dec. 1949,
ppe 258-261

Mt. McKinley from the Air
Sierra Club Bul.; 35, San Francisco, June 1950, pe 28, ills.

The First Ascent of Mount Deception

: Sierra Club Bul.; 36, San Francisco, May 1951, pp. 94105,
ills.

Mt. McKinley and the Alaska Range in Literature
Boston Museum of Science, Sept. 1951, 88 pages



are connected by rivers with other lakes again, until
finally the waters flow into the basins of the Tennanah
and the Yukon; but conflicting with this intermingling
of the waters are stories of mountains of immense alti-
tude visible for hundreds of miles. The natives living
north of this terra incognita give, however, a similar
description, which may be accepted until reliable ex-
plorers are enabled to penetrate this region.” 6a,

Lt. Henry T. Allen, who in 1885 made his hazardous explora-
tion of the lower Tanana, also saw this peak, but at so great a v
distance that he was not especially impressed with its altitude. 7/
He was followed in 1889 by Frank Densmore, a prospector, who with
several companions crossed from the Tanana River to the Kuskokwim
by way of Croschket and Lake Minchumina and had the magnificent
view Minchumina affords. Densmore's description was so enthusi-
astic that the mountain was known for years among the Yukon pros-
pectors as "Densmore's Mountain." 8

Thus it was that explorers and traders, although impressed,
did not seem to be aware that they had sighted the highest peak on
the continent. When in 1895 scores of prospectors were attracted to
Cook Inlet by the discovery of gold, they, too, saw the mountain,
but apparently gave it no thought until the following year, when one
of then, W. A. Dickey, recognized its importance. On his return to
the States, he published a description of it and proposed the name
of Mount McKinley. Although the mountain had been known to white
men for over a century, and though scores of others had been as near
to it as this prospector, or nearer, he was popularly termed the dis-
coverer of Mount McKinley. He is to be honored for calling attention
to it, but not as the discoverer. o In brief, Dickey's story is as
follows:

In 1896, he and his companion, Monks, "tacked" a boat up the
Susitna River looking for gold. In the course of time they reached
a point where, from some bare hills, they got an open view of the
Alaskan Range with Mount McKinley towering above it. With remark-
able accuracy he estimated its height at 20,000 feet, and on his
return to civilization wrote a newspaper article describing the
location and grandeur of the great peak, which he called Mount
McKinley. He named it so because while he and his partner were -
prospecting on the Susitna River, they fell in with two prospec-
tors who were rabid champions of free silver. After listening to
their arguments for many weary days, he retaliated by naming the »
mountain after the champion of the gold standard.

In 1898, two years after the naming of the mountain, George
Eldridge and Robert Muldrow, of the United States Geological
Survey, in the course of their exploration of the Susitna River,
located it accurately and determined its altitude at over
20,000 feet. Its height and location, and something of the



58

In 1930, a landing field was leveled off on a bar on the Savage
River near the tourist camp. Alaska Airways, which made sight~
seeing trips to Mount McKinley, operated a Fairchild 71 six-passenger
cabin airplane from this field. It was also used by different opera~
tors until 1938.

The first airplane to fly over the top of Mount McKinley was
piloted by Matt Nieminen on August 15, 1930. He was accompanied on
the flight by his mechanic, Cecil Higgins.

In 1933, a small strip was cleared on the Moreno homestead,
parallel to the railroad, and was used as a landing field. It had
a Length of about 1,000 feet. .

On August }, 193), the first airplane was used in the park in’
conjunction with the park's wildlife. At that time Alaska's first
flying Game Warden, Sam White, and Superintendent Liek made an aerial
count of the Dall mountain sheep. They were in the air four hours
and made an actual count of 2,280 sheep. They estimated they missed
about 20 percent because of the character of the terrain. The air-
plane used was a Swallow TP, powered by a 100hp Kinner Motor.

In 1943, the U. S. Army Engineers enlarged the McKinley Park
landing strip to 2,985 feet in length and surfaced it with gravel.

Memorials

A bronze plaque of Stephen T. Mather has been placed in the
park headquarters area; and,2 mountain, 11,500 feet in elevation,
to the southeast of Mount McKinley, has also been named Mount Mather
in honor of the first Director of the National Park Services

A bronze plaque, presented by the Boone and Crockett Club, was
placed on the east bank of the Toklat River and dedicated to the
memory of the late Charles Sheldon on June 22, 1951. Robert Reeve,

3h yomver of the’ Boone and Crockett Club, gave the dedication address.



74

Carson, Ruth
I Love McKinley
Alaska Sportsman; Dec. 1951, pp. 10-15, ills.

Clancy, Hal
Map May Debunk Cook Claim to McKinley Ascent
Boston Traveler; May 31, 1950, pe 35, ills.

Cook, Frederick A. ia
America's Unconquered Mountain
Harper's Monthly Magazine; 108, Jan. and Feb. 1904,
PPe 250-239, ppe 355=, ills.
Round Mount McKinley
Bul. of the Am. Geoe Soo.; 36:6, 19043 pp. 321-327,
ills., map
Results of a Journey Around Mt. McKinley
Report of 8th International Geo. Congress, Washington,
D. C., 1904
Ascent of Mount McKinley
Scientific American; 95, Dec. 15, 1906, pp. 445-446
The First Ascent of Mount McKinley
Appalachia, 112253
The Conquest of Mount McKinley
Harpers Monthly Magazine; 114, May 1907, ppe 821-837, ills.
To the Top of the Continent
New York; Doubleday, Page & Coe, 1908, 321 pages, ills.
Mount McKinley (a one-page forward from an article by Ralph
Cairns) :
Overland Monthly; NSN 61;2; Feb. 1913, p. 106

Crosson, Joseph, and Young, Ed
Mt. McKinley Conquered from Air
Fairbanks Daily News-Miner; August 31, 1931, ppe 1 and 5

Crozier, William and Mary We
Mount McKinley from the Air
Alpine Journals 443245; Nov. 1932, ppe 275=277, ills.

Dall, William Healy

Remarks on the Natural History of Alaska
Proc. of the Boston Soc. of Nat. Hist., 1886, pp. 143-151

Alaska and Its Resources
Lee and Shepards Boston, 18703 627 pages, ills., map

Alaska as It Was and Is
Bul. of the Philosophical Soc. of Washe; Dec. 1895, -
ppe 123-1613 Vol. 8

Decker, Karl
Dr. Frederick A. Cook, Faker
Metropolitan Magazine; 31, January 1910; ppe 417-435



Mountain Climbs

No attempt was made to climb Mount McKinley after the park
was established until 1932, unless one can count the time
Stephen Jaross of Pozeman University, Poland, entered the park
on, August 7, 1928, with the intention of climbing it. After
talking to Superintendent Karstens, he decided that the Superin~
tendent, for personal reasons, was trying to: prevent him from
climbing the mountain. He thereupon engaged the services of .
Leo Coppa, an Alaskan trapper, and the two started out with
packs on their backs for Mount McKinley. They had no mountain
climbing outfits. However, they did reach the base of Mount -
McKinley (McGonagall Rass), where food and foot gear gave out.
On finding a ranger's cache of food on Clearwater Creek, they
borrowed some food and finally got to the Kantishna mining
district, where Joe and Fannie Quigley provided them enough to
allow them to reach the railroad and civilization, with greater
respect for Mount McKinley.

Mount Foraker

The summit of Mount Foraker, 17,000 feet elevation, was
climbed for the first time on August 6, 193), when Charles S. .
Houston, New York City, Thomas Graham Brown, Cardiff, England,
and George C. Waterston, London, England, accomplished that
feat. As this mountain is located in the wilderness far from
roads, the party used a pack train to pack their supplies to
the base of the mountain. The veteran Alaskan guide and packer,
Carl Anderson, was engaged as a guide to the base of the
mountains

Other First Ascents of Mountains in the Park

Mystery Mountain, Elevation 11,820. The first ascent of
Mystery Mountain was made by Bradford Washburn, James Gale,
Richard C. Manual and Elmo G. Fenn on November 13, 19h.

Mount Silverthrone, Elevation 13,220. The first ascent of
Mount Silverthrone was made by Bradford Washburn, Norman Bright
and Frank P. Foster on April 15, 1945.

The first ascent of an unnamed snow dome, 12,515 feet ele-
vation, west of Mount McKinley, was made by Bradford Washburn,
James Gale, Henry Bushtel and William. Hackett on June 26, 1951.

°

Peters Dome, Elevation 10,560, was climbed for the first
time by Jerry Moore and Barry P. Bishop on June 29, 1951.

Mount Brooks, Elevation 11,930. First ascent made by Thayer

Seudder, David Bernays, Winslow Briggs and John Humphreys on
July 5, 19526



46

The Lindley-Liek party had a meal, put on skis, and started
down the glacier. Koven's body was. found about one-half mile
below camp at an elevation of 10,500 feet, where he had died in
a vain effort to get back to camp after being severely injured
near a crevasse. Signs around it indicated that it was the scene
of a disaster. There seemed to be no possibility of Carpe's
being alive, from the length of time that had elapsed. He was
called and there was no answer. The rescuers did not care to .
take any more chances, as a short time previously, while two of .
the party were pulling Koven's body on a sled with their only
rope, Grant Pearson, on snowshoes behind and unroped, had broken
through and dropped a full forty feet in a crevasse. Other than .
minor injuries, he was unhurt. He climbed out of the verevasse
on a rope with thé help of the others above.

As the Lindley-Liek party reconstructed Carpe's and Koven's
accident, the two men had been travelling down the glacier to-
gether in search of their companions. The leader was on skis,
the other without them. The skier, apparently, had skimmed over
the crevasse into which the man behind had fallen. The first man
returned to help him, for cautious ski marks showed at the edge
of the crevasse. Then the snow broke away and he must have fallen
in tioo. Somehow, Koven had managed to climb out, badly injured
though he was, and started back to camp for help - the help that
came too late. After Pearson's fall into the crevasse, the party
left Koven's body, as it was too dangerous to attempt to take it
down with the equipment at hand. He was wrapped in a mountain
tent, and an eight-foot Yukon sled was stood on end as a marker
should anyone return for the body.

The party continued down the glacier and in a tent at the
Cosmic Ray camp at McGonagall Pass, elevation about 5,600 feet,
they found two other men, one of them, E. P. Beckwith, seriously
ill. A third man, Nicholas W. Spadavecchia, had gone down the
mountain to get an airplane to land on the glacier and resue the
sick man. The whole party had come in by plane, and Spadavecchia's
tracks were headed in the wrong direction. Rangers Rumohr and
Swisher later had to hike 180 miles on snowshoes to rescue him.

When the Lindley-Liek party reached the park phone 5 miles
from the base of the mountain, they telephoned the Alaska Airways -
at Fairbanks to send a plane for the sick man. It was spring in
Fairbanks and the fire department had to wet down the airfield
to slick mud so that a plane could take off on skis for the glacier
landing.

The Lindley-Liek party made a 16mm black and white movie of
their trip. These were the first movies ever taken on Mount
McKinley.



90

6a

Te
8.

10.
ll.

lia.

12.

13.
dh.
la.
15.
1da.
16.

REFERENCES

Browne, Belmore, The Conquest of Mt. McKinley, p. 5

Brooks, Alfred, "An Exploration to Mount.McKinley,
America's Highest Mountain", in Annual Report to the
Smithsonian Institution, Year Ending June 30, 1903,
refers to the Indian name, Trolika

Stuck, Hudson, The Ascent of Mount McKinley, p. VIII,

‘discusses the names, Denali and Traleika.

Wickersham, James, Old Yukon, pp. 23-253.
Andrews, C. L., The Story of Alaska, pp. 25-12h.

Brooks, in Annual Report of the Smithsonian
Institution, 1903, pe 08

Petroff, Ivan, Census Report, 1880, p. 6.

Browne, The Conquest of Mount McKinley, pe 7

Stuck, The Ascent of Denali, pe 158

Brooks, in Annual Report of Smithsonian Institution,
1903, p. 0B.

Browne, The Conquest of Mount McKinley, p. 8.

Yanert, William, A Trip to the Tanana River, p. 677.

Herron, Joseph S., Lt., Explorations in Alaska,
1899, for an All-American Overland Route from
Cook Inlet, Pacific Ocean, to the Yukon.

Brooks, Alfred, in Annual Report of the
Smithsonian institution, 1903.

From observations of Grant H. Pearson.
Wickersham, Old Yukon, pp. 217-295.
Stuck, The Ascent of Denali, pp. 161-166.
Told to Grant H. Pearson by Old-Timers.

Sheldon, Charles, Wilderness of Denali, p» h.

Ibid., pp. 271-272.

we

nO Aw

~

12
12
13

16
16
17



9

On May 27, 1902, Brooks! party arrived at Cook Inlet with pro-
visions sufficient to feed seven men for 105 days. The food was
packed in waterproof bags. The rest of the equipment was chosen
with a view to lightness. The tents weighed only a few pounds, and
carbines were carried instead of rifles. Sleeping bags were substi-
tuted for blankets. because they give a maximum of warmth for a
minimum of weight. The entire equipment weighed 3,500 pounds, of
which 1,000 pounds were sent by boat and the rest distributed among
the 20 horses.

By the middle of July, after noting the majesty of Mount
McKinley and Mount Foraker, the expedition crossed the range by a
pass, probably the one Herron called Simpson Passe Because of
storms which they encountered in the area, they called it Rainy Pass,
which name still stands. From here they travelled in an easterly
direction which paralleled the massive Alaska Range. From this
point, Brooks! description is worthy of note. He wrote:

NAmong the foothills, averaging a height of 3,000 or
4,000 feet, dwelt large numbers of mountain sheep. In the
course of one morning's ramblings I counted more than 100
of these mountain dwellers.

"Since leaving the pass we had subsisted largely upon
moose and mountain sheep. Not a day was spent in hunting,
but when the supply of meat ran low an animal was shot
near camp or on the march. Not only was game plentiful,
but so little did it know of man that it regarded us rather
with curiosity than mistrust. During our journey across
the Piedmont Plateau, for days and weeks together we were
hardly out of sight of caribou. They had a curious way of
approaching, either individually or in bands, to within
50 yards of the moving pack train, then galloping away to
a distance and returning by a series of large circles.
Sometimes a lone buck would encircle our camp for hours at
a time, one minute standing erect gazing at us with rapt
attention, another flying across the smooth sod at break-
neck pace, only to approach again from a different directions
There was no sport in hunting such innocently tame creatures,
and we never molested them except when we needed meat.

"These were the happiest days of summer. Cheered by the
thought that every day's march was bringing us visibly nearer
to our goal, we lent ourselves readily to the influence of
the clear, invigorating air and the inspiration of that
majestic peak ever looming before us, the highest mountain
of North America, which we were to be the first to explore.

‘Our camp on August 1, was pitched in a grove of
cottonwoods near the foot of a glacier which flowed down
from the neve fields of Mount Foraker. This we called