Congratulations on adopting or 

purchasing a wild horse and/or burro!
The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Wild Horse and Burro Program created this guide as a resource for 

adopters and purchasers who have taken home a wild horse and/or burro. Feel free to contact the BLM with 

any questions about your new animal.

For more information about the care and feeding of wild horses and burros, please check with your veterinarian, or libraries 

and bookstores for materials. In addition, your county’s cooperative extension office, university extension web sites and 

the BLM are also excellent sources of information.

*Adopter Responsibilities

*Animal Titling Requirements

Loading and Unloading 

your Animal

Getting to know your Animal

Exercise, Turnout and Gentling

Nutrition

Body Condition

Animal Care

Preventative Care

Equine Diseases

Pregnancy

*Applies to animals adopted through the BLM’s Wild Horse and Burro Program

Cover photo: Courtney Ferguson with Taylor

Photo credit: Blue Fountain Photography
Adopter RESPONSIBILITIES

The following are the terms of adoption also stated in 

the paperwork received at the time of adoption:

• Adopters are financially responsible for providing 

proper care, including food and water, shelter, hoof 

and veterinary care.

• Adopters are responsible, as provided by State law, for 

any personal injury, property damage or death caused 

by animals in their care, for pursuing animals that 

escape or stray and for the costs of recapture.

• Adopters shall not transfer animals for more 

than 30 days to another location or to the care 

of another individual without the prior approval 

of an authorized officer.

• Adopters shall make animals available for physical 

inspection within 7 days of receipt of a written request 

by an authorized officer.

• Adopters shall notify the authorized officer within 7 

days of discovery of an animal's death, theft or escape.

• Adopters shall notify the authorized officer within 

30 days of any change in the adopter's address.

• Adopters shall dispose of remains in accordance 

with applicable sanitation laws.

Your (untitled) adopted animal remains the property 

of the federal government for at least one year after 

you sign the Private Maintenance and Care Agreement. 

The BLM will send you a Title Eligibility Letter in the mail. 

You are responsible for having the animal inspected, 

signing the Title Eligibility Letter and mailing it back 

to BLM so we can issue your official Certificate of 

Title. When the BLM issues the Certificate of Title 

to you, the animal becomes your private property.

Please refer to your adoption paperwork for more details 

on adopters’ responsibilities and prohibited acts.

Animal TITLING REQUIREMENTS

Approximately 12 months after the adoption date, 

the BLM will send you a Title Eligibility Letter (Form 

4710-18) for each animal that you adopted.

Contact your veterinarian, extension agent, local 

humane official, farrier or other BLM-approved 

individual to have your animal(s) inspected.

The individual performing the inspection must 

complete and sign a Title Eligibility Form for 

each animal. 

Return each Title Eligibility Form to the address 

of the BLM office that sent you the letter. This is 

the BLM office that has jurisdiction over your state, 

not necessarily the office from which you adopted 

the animal. 

• The Certificate of Title(s) for your adopted 

animal(s) should reach you within 30 days after 

BLM receives your signed Title Eligibility Letter. 

If you have not received the Certificate of Title(s), 

please contact the BLM office of jurisdiction 

or the Wild Horse and Burro Program National 

Information Center at (866) 468-7826 

or wildhorse@BLM.gov. 

• Only ONE Certificate of Title is issued for 

each animal. The Certificate of Title transfers 

ownership of the animal from BLM to you. The 

original Certificate of Title must travel with the 

animal. In the event you transfer the animal 

to someone else, the BLM does not re-issue 

Certificates of Title to subsequent owners of 

a Titled Animal. If the original Certificate of 

Title is lost or destroyed, the BLM can issue 

you a letter certifying the animal is titled. 

• Until you apply for and receive a Certificate of 

Title for the animal(s) you adopted, you may NOT 

SELL or otherwise transfer your adopted animal(s) 

to the care of another individual without written 

permission from the authorized officer.

1

2

3

4

NOTE Untitled animals cannot be sold, traded or given away (43 CFR 4770.1(d)). Any violation of this prohibition may result in 

criminal penalties and fines up to $2,000 and imprisonment up to one year, or both (43 CFR 4770.5).

Caring for Your New Wild Horse or Burro 3
Before unloading your animal(s), double check that 

your corral is secure and enclosed. Be slow and patient 

while unloading your animal. Try to keep the noise to 

a minimum. Some animals may unload as soon as the 

door is open, while others may not want to come off the 

trailer immediately. Give them time to let them unload 

when they feel safe.

If the adopter has requested BLM to place a halter 

and/or lead rope on their animal(s) at the event, do 

not immediately attempt to remove the halter or the 

lead rope. It is suggested that the halter and lead 

rope stay on the animal to help teach the animal 

to give to pressure when the animal steps on the 

lead rope as it walks around the corral.

GETTING TO KNOW

yOur Animal

BLM works hard to provide only healthy animals for 

adoption and sale, but transportation, adoption and 

sale events can be stressful. Stress combined with 

exposure to large groups of horses means a higher 

chance for illness. For at least the first few days, you 

should keep activity around the corral and shelter 

area to a minimum. It will take a little time for your 

wild horses or burros to adjust to their new 

surroundings and routines, such as you bringing 

hay and water to the animals.

Horses and burros are social animals. They may find 

comfort or settle down more easily if they can see 

and communicate with other horses or burros nearby. 

However, it is probably best not to mix them into the 

same or adjacent pens right away.

The first three to four weeks your wild horse or burro 

is home, you should observe them closely for signs 

of illness including coughing, cloudy discharge from 

the nose or eyes, swollen lymph nodes under the jaw 

or throat latch, depression, diarrhea and not wanting 

to eat or drink. If you notice these signs, please contact 

your veterinarian immediately to examine the animal(s) 

and provide treatment if necessary. If you have concerns 

with the health of your animal, you should also notify 

the BLM to make them aware of the situation. After a 

few weeks, if all the animals look happy and healthy, 

they can be moved in with or closer to other animals 

on your property.

There, now you have safely

unloaded your new wild horse 

and/or burro and you are 

on the path to your new 

partnership and life together!

Caitlin Martin with Flash Gordon 

Photo credit: BLM partner Beaty Butte Training Facility in Adel, Oregon

4 BLM.gov/WHB • (866) 468-7826
Exercise your wild horse or burro regularly for good overall health 

and condition. Once an animal becomes accustomed to the fences 

on your property and can be reliably caught and haltered, it will do 

much better turned out into a small pasture or dry lot rather than 

being kept in a small pen or stall.

Begin working with your animal in the gentling process as soon 

as you can. The sooner you begin the training process, the easier 

it becomes to provide routine care. Farriers and veterinarians will 

also appreciate your efforts in making their jobs easier, particularly 

if something unfortunate happens and your animal needs medical 

treatment. Do not expect your veterinarian or farrier to train your 

animal for you.

Top right photo: Adopter Elisa Wallace and her wild horse, Fledge

Photo credit: Rhonda Hole

The key to beginning this 

process is to take your 

time, stay safe, do not put 

yourself or the animal in 

a dangerous situation, go 

slowly and remain patient.

Caring for Your New Wild Horse or Burro 5
nutrition

The nutritional needs of wild horses and burros depend on their size, age, physical condition, the range conditions where they came 

from and the amount of exercise or training they get in captivity. Growing animals and pregnant or lactating mares and jennies can 

require special diets. While some animals may do well on a particular ration, others could become too thin or too fat on the same 

ration. Often, wild horses and burros in captivity are “easy keepers,” which means they may easily become obese. 

Good quality hay or pasture should be the main component of any horse or burro diet. Quality hay should be dry, green, free of dust 

or mold and have few weeds in it. When animals are fed in groups, it is imperative that all animals have enough space to eat at the 

same time, plus extra room for more timid animals to access the feed without being chased away by more dominant animals.

For pregnant, growing or thin animals, you can add grain or pelleted concentrates to the ration, but hay should always be at least 

1⁄2 but preferably 3⁄4 of the total amount fed by weight. Consult your veterinarian to develop a feeding program suitable for your 

particular animal.

Care must be taken when using bulk, mixed feeds prepared for livestock. Some additives for cattle (for example the ionophore 

monensin, Rumensin®) are deadly if fed to horses or burros. Feeding grains, pellets or supplements intended for cattle, pigs or 

other livestock to horses or burros is discouraged. Horses and burros should never be fed lawn clippings or silage because 

these feeds are too rich and prone to mold and spoilage.

Here are some general guidelines on an appropriate diet for a wild horse or burro. Adjust these amounts if weight gain or 

loss is desired.

6 BLM.gov/WHB • (866) 468-7826
FOR HORSES

Horses should receive about 2–21⁄2 percent of their ideal 

body weight in feed per day, and most of that should be in 

the form of roughage (hay or pasture). This means a typical 

1,000-pound horse would need about 20–25 pounds of hay 

each day. Adult horses need a ration containing 10–12 

percent crude protein. Legume hay such as alfalfa contains 

high quality protein often 15–20 percent or more. Young, 

pregnant, lactating or thin horses can benefit from this higher 

protein, but adult horses in light work do not need that much. 

Grass hay, which is typically 6–12 percent protein, is often a 

good choice for adult horses in light work.

Feeding excess protein to a healthy adult horse in the form of 

alfalfa hay rarely causes any harm. It might make them drink 

more water, urinate more and could lead to obesity more easily 

than feeding grass hay, but it does no harm to otherwise healthy 

animals. Most of the BLM corrals feed alfalfa hay because it is 

usually the best quality hay available at the most economical 

price, and it provides more consistency in the diet when horses 

move between facilities. Young, growing horses and lactating 

mares benefit the most from eating alfalfa hay because grass 

hay will rarely meet their nutritional requirements. The older a 

horse becomes, the more suitable grass hay is for consumption. 

Quality grass hay such as orchard, brome, timothy and bermuda 

may be used. Less common types of grass hay such as rye, 

barley or sudan can cause problems when fed to horses and 

should probably be avoided even if they are less expensive. 

Mixed hays, such as a combination of orchard or brome grass 

hay and alfalfa, are an excellent choice for most horses.

Oats, barley, corn or a commercial concentrate pellet or 

sweet feed can be offered as an energy supplement to very 

active, lactating or growing horses or during the winter months. 

It is easiest to use rolled oats or a prepared horse feed. 

Caring for Your New Wild Horse or Burro 7
WATER

A fresh, clean supply of water must always 

be available for your horse or burro. Weather 

conditions will affect the amount of water an 

animal will drink, therefore you should increase 

the water supply in the summer. Mares that 

are nursing foals need much more water, so 

increase water accordingly. To ensure a full 

day supply of clean water, it is recommended 

to use a trough or other container larger than 

5 gallons to supply water to your animal 

because many wild horses and burros prefer 

not to place their heads down into a bucket.

In winter, it is important to make sure 

your animal’s water source does not 

freeze. Remember that snow is NOT a 

substitute for water in the winter months.

MINERAL BLOCKS

You should consider providing your animal 

with salt and trace minerals, in a loose form 

or in block, for proper nutrition. You can find 

these at your local feed or tack store.

FOR BURROS

Burros are not simply small horses with big ears and a different 

voice. Wild burros are adapted to living in a harsh desert environment. 

Their nutritional needs are lower in energy and protein compared with 

horses. The BLM recommends feeding grass hay at about 2 percent 

of their ideal body weight per day. Like horses, the best feed for your 

burro depends on its level of activity. The most appropriate food for 

burros is dry pasture or a low-protein grass hay. If possible, avoid 

feeding burros alfalfa as the high protein levels can cause obesity. 

Avoid the temptation of using cheaper, poor quality hay that is not 

clean and fresh. Burros are just as sensitive as horses to mold, dust 

and toxic weeds. Pregnant, lactating and growing burros may need 

a little more protein and energy but not as much as horses under 

similar conditions. If you decide to use grain as a treat, a handful 

of oats combined with a lower protein hay would be adequate.

Burros have a tendency to become obese and have related 

health problems if they get too fat. Typically, once they get fat, 

it is difficult to get the excess weight off. Obesity can contribute 

to laminitis (founder), colic and other metabolic problems so it is 

best to monitor their weight from the start. If possible, feed your 

burros separately from your horses. 

Burros tend to be more angular in shape over the hips compared to 

horses. If it is difficult to feel their ribs with the flat of your hand and 

they start to develop a thick neck, they are becoming obese! As with 

horses, if your burro goes “off feed,” please contact your veterinarian 

immediately to prevent more serious problems from developing.

8 BLM.gov/WHB • (866) 468-7826
Healthy adult horses should be in what is best described as moderate body condition (Henneke score of 4–5) depending on their 

age and level of exercise. The ribs should be easily felt but not easily seen. The withers, shoulders and tailhead should have a slightly 

rounded not angular appearance. These areas should blend smoothly into the body, but there should not be obvious fat deposits in 

these areas. Burros tend to be more angular than horses and should be maintained at a similar body condition.

Some animals, especially those that are young and growing, nursing or have come off the range in poor condition may be too thin. 

If you can clearly see its ribs, it may be too thin. In this case, consult with your veterinarian. You should adjust the feed ration until it 

regains an acceptable body condition. The first change to feeding a thin horse or burro should be providing “free-choice” all you can 

eat, access to good quality hay. This often means separating thin animals from groups of other fleshier animals that might be pushing 

the thinner animals away from the feed. If the animal does not improve after a couple of weeks of free choice grass hay, it should be 

switched to free choice alfalfa grass mix or alfalfa hay. This is the simplest, cheapest, most effective and healthiest way to put weight 

on a thin horse or burro. If an animal is still thin after being offered free choice, access to good quality alfalfa hay, then grain or grain 

concentrate feeds can be slowly introduced to increase the energy intake. 

You may wish to consult with your veterinarian to ensure your animal does not have other health issues. Your veterinarian will be 

happy to help you design and implement a program appropriate for your animal’s specific needs and location. A properly fed wild 

horse or burro will show the signs of a healthy equine including a glossy coat, bright eyes and lots of energy.

Modified from Henneke et al. EVJ 1983; 15:371-372

Caring for Your New Wild Horse or Burro 9
henneke BODY CONDITION TABLE

CONDITION NECK WITHERS SHOULDER RIBS BACK TAILHEAD AREA

1

POOR

(extremely 

emaciated)

Bone structure 

easily noticeable

Bone structure 

easily noticeable

Bone structure 

easily noticeable

Ribs projecting 

prominently

Spinous processes 

projecting prominently

Tailhead, pin bones, 

and hook bones 

projecting prominently

2

VERY THIN

(emaciated)

Bone structure

faintly discernible

Bone structure

faintly discernible

Bone structure

faintly discernible

Ribs prominent Slight fat covering 

over base of spinous 

processes

Transverse processes 

of lumbar vertebrae 

feel rounded

Spinous processes 

are prominent

Tailhead prominent 

Pin bones prominent

Hook bones prominent

3

THIN

Neck accentuated Withers 

accentuated

Shoulder 

accentuated

Slight fat cover 

over ribs

Ribs easily 

discernible

Fat buildup halfway 

on spinous processes, 

but easily discernible

Transverse processes 

cannot be felt

Tailhead prominent but 

individual vertebrae 

cannot be visually 

identified

Hook bones appear 

rounded, but are still 

easily discernible

Pin bones not 

distinguishable

4

MODERATELY 

THIN

Neck not 

obviously thin

Withers not 

obviously thin

Shoulder not 

obviously thin

Faint outline of 

ribs discernible

Negative crease 

(peaked appearance) 

along back

Prominence depends 

on conformation

Fat can be felt

Hook bones not 

discernible

5

MODERATE

Neck blends 

smoothly 

into body

Withers rounded 

over spinous 

processes

Shoulder 

blends smoothly 

into body

Ribs cannot 

be visually

distinguished, but 

can be easily felt

Back is level Fat around 

tailhead beginning 

to feel spongy

6

MODERATELY 

FLESHY

Fat beginning to 

be deposited

Fat beginning to 

be deposited

Fat beginning 

to be deposited 

behind shoulder

Fat over ribs 

feels spongy

May have a slight 

positive crease (a 

groove) down back

Fat around tailhead 

feels soft

7

FLESHY

Fat deposited 

along neck

Fat deposited 

along withers

Fat deposited 

behind shoulder

Individual 

ribs can be felt, 

but noticeable 

fat filling 

between ribs

May have a positive 

crease down the back

Fat around tailhead 

is soft

8

FAT

Noticeable

thickening 

of neck

Area along 

withers filled 

with fat

Area behind 

shoulder filled 

with fat

Difficult to 

feel ribs

Positive crease down 

the back

Fat around tailhead 

very soft

9

EXTREMELY 

FAT

Bulging fat Bulging fat Bulging fat Patchy fat 

appearing 

over ribs

Obvious crease down 

the back

Flank filled with fat

Bulging fat 

around tailhead

10 BLM.gov/WHB • (866) 468-7826
ANIMAL care

HOOF CARE

Proper hoof care is required and is one of the most important things you 

can do to make sure your wild horse or burro stays sound and healthy. 

Training your animal to pick up and accept handling of its feet is critical 

to this process.

In captivity, your wild horse or burro’s hooves will grow quickly and 

not wear as they did while on the range. You will need to periodically 

have the animal’s feet trimmed. The frequency of hoof trimming and/or 

shoeing will depend upon the amount of hoof wear, the soil conditions in 

the corral or pasture and how often the animal exercises. The hoof walls 

should generally be upright at about a 50–55 degree angle not sloping at 

a low 45 degree angle. They should be straight, not flared, and they should 

not be split or broken off. If you do not provide good hoof care, your horses 

and burros become susceptible to hoof deformities, abscesses or thrush 

just like domestic horses and burros.

Improper hoof care is the most common cause of lameness in horses 

and burros. Consult a farrier (also a veterinarian if necessary) to establish 

a regular program of preventive hoof care and maintenance before your 

animal’s feet are too long.

DENTAL CARE

Over time, your wild horse’s or burro’s teeth may also need preventive 

care. Equine teeth grow continuously throughout their lives and wear 

down as they eat. If they wear unevenly, sharp edges or points develop 

causing pain and preventing adequate chewing. Your veterinarian can 

file off these uneven spots (a procedure called “floating”) to protect the 

animal’s cheeks and tongue and promote good feed utilization.

Your animal’s teeth should be checked about once a year. Noticeable 

signs of tooth problems include a change in chewing habits, holding 

their head to one side while eating, slobbering, dribbling grain while 

eating or packing balls of hay in their cheeks. A foul odor from the 

nose or mouth can also be a sign of a tooth problem.

Caring for Your New Wild Horse or Burro 11
PREVENTATIVE care

VACCINATIONS

The wild horse or burro you adopted or purchased was 

dewormed, vaccinated and examined by a veterinarian. 

Your animals received the following vaccinations: 

• Eastern and Western 

Equine Encephalomyelitis 

(EEE/WEE)

• Influenza (FLU)

• Equine herpes (also called 

rhinopneumonitis or RHINO

for short)

• Tetanus

• West Nile Virus (WNV)

• Rabies 

• Strangles (equine 

distemper, Strep. 

Equi, or STREP) 

All the vaccinations and deworming medications are 

listed on their health records. They were also tested 

and found to be negative for equine infectious anemia 

(also called a Coggins test for EIA or swamp fever) to 

comply with interstate shipping requirements.

Keep the health record in a safe place and use it as a 

guide to schedule annual booster vaccinations and other 

treatments. Your veterinarian is an excellent source of 

information concerning vaccinations, deworming, dental 

care and hoof care. It is recommended that you contact 

your veterinarian concerning any questions, issues or 

problems you have with your animal as well as start 

your animal on a regular deworming and an appropriate 

booster vaccination schedule.

PARASITE CONTROL

Internal parasites can affect wild horses and burros. 

Your wild horse or burro will have been dewormed at 

a BLM preparation center at least once. Depending on 

how long the animal was in a BLM facility, it may have 

been done several times. Check your animal’s health 

records for deworming dates and plan its next 

deworming date based on the health record.

It is easy for horses and burros to get re-infected with 

internal parasites; either from the environment or from 

dormant, encysted stages of parasites that survive in the 

animals. The ideal deworming frequency and schedule 

depends on the environment and level of infestation. 

You may need to deworm your animals ranging from 

once a month to every six months or only when indicated 

by fecal testing. Foals, young horses, pregnant mares 

and mares with nursing foals need special attention. 

Deworming medications are only part of the solution 

to controlling parasites. Talk to your veterinarian to 

identify the best products and procedures to control 

parasites and avoid related health problems that 

can range from mild to life threatening.

12 BLM.gov/WHB • (866) 468-7826
eQuine DISEASES

The following are descriptions of the diseases wild horses and burros are vaccinated or tested for once 

removed from public lands.

EASTERN AND WESTERN ENCEPHALOMYELITIS (EEW/WEE)

EEE and WEE are viral diseases spread by mosquitoes that affect the brain and spinal cord. Infected animals will exhibit neurologic 

signs such as incoordination, stumbling and paralysis. They can be fatal. The vaccines for these diseases are very effective.

EQUINE INFECTIOUS ANEMIA (EIA)

EIA is a viral disease naturally spread by biting 

flies that affects all types of horses, burros and 

other equids. There is no vaccine or treatment for 

the disease and it is regulated by animal health 

authorities around the world. In the U.S., a negative 

test result is required prior to moving animals across 

state lines. All BLM animals are tested for EIA prior 

to adoption and at the time of adoption you received 

a negative EIA or Coggins test report.

STRANGLES (STREP)

STREP (Streptococcus equi or zooepidemicus), 

also called equine distemper, is a bacterial upper 

respiratory tract infection. It typically causes fever, 

coughing and a thick white or yellow nasal discharge. 

The lymph nodes under the jaw often become enlarged 

and abscess. Strangles is highly contagious to other 

horses. Vaccination does not guarantee that the animal 

will not become infected, but often a vaccinated animal 

will get a milder case if exposed. Generally, young animals, 

particularly weanlings and yearlings, are more likely to 

come down with strangles. Isolating an infected animal 

or group of animals and providing them with rest and 

good nutrition are called for as animals recover.

RABIES

Rabies is caused by a virus that is spread by the 

bite of an infected animal, usually a bat, raccoon, skunk 

or fox. Dogs, cats, livestock and people can also become 

infected and spread rabies. Clinical signs may include 

severe depression and paralysis but vary significantly 

from animal to animal. Most often horses show nonspecific 

signs such as colic or lameness. Rabies is almost always 

fatal but is easily prevented with a very effective vaccine.

EQUINE INFLUENZA AND 

HERPES (FLU AND RHINO)

FLU and RHINO are viruses that usually cause upper 

respiratory infections characterized by high fevers, 

a hacking cough and watery nasal discharge. Equine 

herpes virus can also cause abortions in pregnant mares 

and neurologic signs such as incoordination, stumbling 

and paralysis. Unfortunately, none of the vaccines for 

influenza and herpes are highly effective. Disease 

prevention is best accomplished by limiting contact 

with sick animals and preventing indirect contact with 

the virus such as from dirty hands, clothing or tack. 

TETANUS

Tetanus (also called lockjaw) is caused by a bacteria that 

affects the nervous system. Tetanus usually enters through 

small cuts or puncture wounds. Tetanus causes stiffness 

and muscle paralysis that is usually fatal, but it can easily 

be prevented by vaccination.

WEST NILE VIRUS (WNV)

West Nile is a viral disease spread by mosquitoes that affect 

the brain and spinal cord. It causes neurologic signs such as 

incoordination, stumbling and paralysis. It can be fatal, but 

the vaccine is very effective at preventing the disease.

Caring for Your New Wild Horse or Burro 13
14 BLM.gov/WHB • (866) 468-7826
preGnancy

The BLM does not perform pregnancy checks on mares or 

jennies after they are removed from the range. Wild horses 

and burros can become pregnant as early as 12 months of 

age. The normal gestation for a horse is 11 months and 11 

days. Most mares will give birth in the spring, but early and 

late births can also occur. Gestation for burros is typically 

about 12 months and they can foal any time throughout 

the year. If you adopted a mare or jenny, you should consider 

the possibility she may be in foal even if she does not look 

pregnant when you adopt or purchase her. 

Check with the BLM to see when she was gathered to help 

determine if she may be pregnant. You should learn about 

the special needs of a mare/jenny and foal to plan ahead 

in the event your mare or jenny does turn out to be pregnant.

NOTE

Foals born to a wild horse or burro after approval of 

a Private Maintenance and Care Agreement or Bill of 

Sale are not wild horses or burros. Such foals are the 

property of the adopter of the parent mare or jenny. 

The foal will not need to be freeze marked and you 

will not need to fill out a new Private Maintenance 

and Care Agreement or Bill of Sale. However, in cases 

where prohibited acts have been violated, the Private 

Maintenance and Care Agreement is terminated and 

animals are being repossessed, unweaned foals 

would also be removed and become BLM property.

Caring for Your New Wild Horse or Burro 15
Contact the Bureau of Land Management with any 

questions regarding the Wild Horse and Burro Program.

BLM.gov/WHB • wildhorse@BLM.gov • (866) 468-7826 •

WHB1010